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diff --git a/41218-8.txt b/41218-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 40164df..0000000 --- a/41218-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16028 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2) - -Author: John Evelyn - -Commentator: Richard Garnett - -Release Date: October 29, 2012 [EBook #41218] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: _CHARLES I. IN PRISON_ - -_Photogravure after De La Roche_] - - - - - THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN - - EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS BY - WILLIAM BRAY - Fellow of the Antiquarian Society - - IN TWO VOLUMES - - VOL. I - - WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION - BY THE EDITOR - - AND A SPECIAL INTRODUCTION BY - RICHARD GARNETT, LL.D. - Of the British Museum - - M. WALTER DUNNE, PUBLISHER - WASHINGTON & LONDON - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1901, - BY - M. WALTER DUNNE, - PUBLISHER - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -VOLUME I. - - CHARLES I. IN PRISON _Frontispiece_ - Photogravure after De La Roche. - - LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683 180 - Photogravure after a painting by Bridges. - - OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON 284 - The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution - of the Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. - Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain after Newenham. - - -VOLUME II. - - THE DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM _Frontispiece_ - From an old painting. - - NELL GWYNNE 64 - Photogravure after Sir Peter Lely. - - - - -EVELYN'S DIARY - - -The two chief diarists of the age of Charles the Second are, _mutatis -mutandis_, not ill characterized by the remark of a wicked wit upon the -brothers Austin. "John Austin," it was said, "served God and died poor: -Charles Austin served the devil, and died rich. Both were clever fellows. -Charles was much the cleverer of the two." Thus John Evelyn and Samuel -Pepys, the former a perfect model of decorum, the latter a grievous -example of indecorum, have respectively left us diaries, of which the -indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical garden is to a museum: -while the disparity between the testamentary bequests of the two Austins -but imperfectly represents the reputation standing to Pepys's account -with posterity in comparison with that accruing to his sedate and -dignified contemporary. - -Museums, nevertheless, have their uses, and Evelyn's comparatively jejune -record has laid us under no small obligation. But for Pepys's amazing -indiscretion and garrulity, qualities of which one cannot have too little -in life, or too much in the record of it, Evelyn would have been esteemed -the first diarist of his age. Unable for want of these qualifications to -draw any adequate picture of the stirring life around him, he has -executed at least one portrait admirably, his own. The likeness is, -moreover, valuable, as there is every reason to suppose it typical, and -representative of a very important class of society, the well-bred and -well-conducted section of the untitled aristocracy of England. We may -well believe that these men were not only the salt but the substance of -their order. There was an ill-bred section exclusively devoted to -festivity and sport. There was an ill-conducted section, plunged into the -dissipations of court life. But the majority were men like Evelyn: not, -perhaps, equally refined by culture and travel, or equally interested in -literary research and scientific experiment, but well informed and -polite; no strangers to the Court, yet hardly to be called courtiers, -and preferring country to town; loyal to Church and King but not -fanatical or rancorous; as yet but slightly imbued with the principles of -civil and religious liberty, yet adverse to carry the dogma of divine -right further than the right of succession; fortunate in having survived -all ideas of serfdom or vassalage, and in having few private interests -not fairly reconcilable with the general good. Evelyn was made to be the -spokesman of such a class, and, meaning to speak only for himself, he -delivers its mind concerning the Commonwealth and the Restoration, the -conduct of the later Stuart Kings and the Revolution. - -Evelyn's Diary practically begins where many think he had no business to -be diarising, beyond the seas. The position of a loyalist who solaces -himself in Italy while his King is fighting for his crown certainly -requires explanation: it may be sufficient apology for Evelyn that -without the family estates he could be of no great service to the King, -and that these, lying near London, were actually in the grasp of the -Parliament. He was also but one of a large family and it was doubtless -convenient that one member should be out of harm's way. His three years' -absence (1643-6) has certainly proved advantageous to posterity. Evelyn -is, indeed, a mere sight-seer, but this renders his tour a precise record -of the objects which the sight-seer of the seventeenth century was -expected to note, and a mirror not only of the taste but of the feeling -of the time. There is no cult of anything, but there is curiosity about -everything; there is no perception of the sentiment of a landscape, but -real enjoyment of the landscape itself; antiquity is not unappreciated, -but modern works impart more real pleasure. Of the philosophical -reflections which afterward rose to the mind of Gibbon there is hardly a -vestige, and of course Evelyn is at an immeasurable distance from Byron -and De Staėl. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude -of a cultivated young Englishman in presence of classic and renaissance -art with its background of Southern nature. We may register without undue -self-complacency a great development of the modern world in the -ęsthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of -progress. It is interesting to compare with Evelyn's narrative the -chapters recording the visit to Italy supposed to have been made at this -very period by John Inglesant, who inevitably sees with the eyes of the -nineteenth century. Evelyn's casual remarks on foreign manners and -institutions display good sense, without extraordinary insight; in -description he is frequently observant and graphic, as in his account of -the galley slaves, and of Venetian female costumes. He naturally regards -Alpine scenery as "melancholy and troublesome." - -Returned to England, Evelyn strictly follows the line of the average -English country gentleman, execrating the execution of Charles I., -disgusted beyond measure with the suppression of the Church of England -service, but submissive to the powers that be until there are evident -indications of a change, which he promotes in anything but a Quixotic -spirit. Although he is sincerely attached to the monarchy, the condition -of the Church is evidently a matter of greater concern to him: Cromwell -would have done much to reconcile the royalists to his government, had it -been possible for him to have restored the liturgy and episcopacy. The -same lesson is to be derived from his demeanor during the reigns of -Charles and James. The exultation with which the Restoration is at first -hailed soon evaporates. The scandals of the Court are an offense, -notwithstanding Evelyn's personal attachment to the King. But the chief -point is not vice or favoritism or mismanagement, but alliances with -Roman Catholic powers against Protestant nations. Evelyn is enraged to -see Charles missing the part so clearly pointed out to him by Providence -as the protector of the Protestant religion all over Europe. The -conversion of the Duke of York is a fearful blow, James's ecclesiastical -policy after his accession adds to Evelyn's discontent day by day, while -political tyranny passes almost without remark. At last the old cavalier -is glad to welcome the Prince of Orange as deliverer, and though he has -no enthusiasm for William in his character as King, he remains his -dutiful subject. Just because Evelyn was by no means an extraordinary -person, he represents the plain straightforward sense of the English -gentry. The questions of the seventeenth century were far more religious -than political. The synthesis "Church and King" expressed the dearest -convictions of the great majority of English country families, but when -the two became incompatible they left no doubt which held the first place -in their hearts. They acted instinctively on the principle of the Persian -lady who preferred her brother to her husband. It was not impossible to -find a new King, but there was no alternative to the English Church. - -Evelyn's memoirs thus possess a value far exceeding the modest measure of -worth allowed them by De Quincey: "They are useful as now and then -enabling one to fix the date of a particular event, but for little -besides." The Diary's direct contribution to historical accuracy is -insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological minutię, but to the -general progress of moral and political improvement. The editor of 1857 -certainly goes too far in asserting that "All that might have been -excluded from the range of his opinions, his feelings and sympathies -embraced"; but it is interesting to observe the gradual widening of -Evelyn's sympathies with good men of all parties, and to find him in his -latter days criticising the evidence produced in support of the Popish -Plot on the one hand, and deploring the just condemnation of Algernon -Sydney on the other. It is true that, so far as the sufferings of his -country are concerned, his attitude is rather that of the Levite than of -the Samaritan; but more lively popular sympathies would have destroyed -the peculiar value attaching to the testimony of the reluctant witness. -We should, for example, have thought little of such a passage as the -following from the pen of Burnet, from Evelyn it is significant indeed:-- - - _October 14, 1688._--The King's birthday. No guns from the Tower as - usual. The sun eclipsed at its rising. This day signal for the - victory of William the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in - Sussex. The wind, which had been hitherto west, was east all this - day. Wonderful expectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers - ordered to be read in the churches against invasion. - -It might be difficult to produce a nearer approximation in secular -literature to Daniel's "_Mene, Mene, Tekel, Upharsin_." - -There is little else in the Diary equally striking, though Evelyn's -description of Whitehall on the eve of the death of Charles the Second -ranks among the memorable passages of the language. It is nevertheless -full of interesting anecdotes and curious notices, especially of the -scientific research which, in default of any adequate public -organization, was in that age more efficaciously promoted by students -than by professors. De Quincey censures Evelyn for omitting to record the -conversation of the men with whom he associated, but he does not consider -that the Diary in its present shape is a digest of memoranda made long -previously, and that time failed at one period and memory at the other. -De Quincey, whose extreme acuteness was commonly evinced on the negative -side of a question, saw the weak points of the Diary upon its first -publication much more clearly than his contemporaries did, and was -betrayed into illiberality by resentment at what he thought its -undeserved vogue. Evelyn has in truth been fortunate; his record, which -his contemporaries would have neglected, appeared (1818) just in time to -be a precursor of the Anglican movement, a tendency evinced in a similar -fashion by the vindication, no doubt mistaken, of the Caroline authorship -of the "Icon Basilike." Evelyn was a welcome encounter to men of this -cast of thought, and was hailed as a model of piety, culture, and -urbanity, without sufficient consideration of his deficiencies as a -loyalist and a patriot. It also conduced to his reputation that all his -other writings should have virtually perished except his "Sylva," like -his Diary a landmark in the history of improvement, though in a widely -different department. But for his lack of diplomatic talent, he might be -compared with an eminent and much applauded, but in our times somewhat -decrescent, contemporary, Sir William Temple. Both these eminent persons -would have aroused a warmer feeling in posterity, and have effected more -for its instruction and entertainment, if they could occasionally have -dashed their dignity with an infusion of the grotesqueness, we will not -say of Pepys, but of Roger North. To them, however, their dignity was -their character, and although we could have wished them a larger measure -of geniality, we must feel indebted to them for their preservation of a -refined social type. - -[Illustration: Richard Garnett (signature)] - - - - -EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION - - -Evelyn lived in the busy and important times of King Charles I., Oliver -Cromwell, King Charles II., King James II., and King William, and early -accustomed himself to note such things as occurred, which he thought -worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had much personal intercourse -with, the Kings Charles II. and James II.; and he was in habits of great -intimacy with many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and with many -of the eminent men of those days, as well among the clergy as the laity. -Foreigners distinguished for learning, or arts, who came to England, did -not leave it without visiting him. - -The following pages contribute extensive and important particulars of -this eminent man. They show that he did not travel merely to count -steeples, as he expresses himself in one of his Letters: they develop his -private character as one of the most amiable kind. With a strong -predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings Charles -II. and James II., formed when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly -averse to the arbitrary measures of these monarchs. - -Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the Church -of England, he yet felt the most liberal sentiments for those who -differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all -persuasions; nor did he think it necessary to break connection with -anyone who had ever been induced to desert the Church of England, and -embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. In writing to the brother of a -gentleman thus circumstanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in this -admirable manner: "For the rest, we must commit to Providence the success -of times and mitigation of proselytical fervors; having for my own -particular a very great charity for all who sincerely adore the Blessed -Jesus, our common and dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God -(however the present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by others at -the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England may transport -them) will at last compassionate our infirmities, clarify our judgments, -and make abatement for our ignorances, superstructures, passions, and -errors of corrupt times and interests, of which the Romish persuasion can -no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity and secular polity -may pretend. But God will make all things manifest in his own time, only -let us possess ourselves in patience and charity. This will cover a -multitude of imperfections." - -He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general, -admitting that some of the laws enacted against them might be mitigated; -but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, considering them as a -most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes -which befell King James II., and of the horrible persecutions of the -Protestants in France and Savoy. - -He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and address, for he -had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the same time that he -was corresponding with his father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, the -Ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris; and at the same period that he -paid his court to the King, he maintained his intimacy with a disgraced -minister. - -In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for -learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. - -His manners we may presume to have been most agreeable; for his company -was sought by the greatest men, not merely by inviting him to their own -tables, but by their repeated visits to him at his own house; and this -was equally the case with regard to ladies, of many of whom he speaks in -the highest style of admiration, affection, and respect. He was master of -the French, Italian, and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal -is manifest; but at what time he found opportunities for study, it is not -easy to say. He acknowledges himself to have been idle, while at Oxford; -and, when on his travels, he had little time for reading, except when he -stayed about nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was -likewise stationary for several months. At Rome, he remained a -considerable time, but, while there, he was so continually engaged in -viewing the great variety of interesting objects to be seen in that city, -that he could have found little leisure for reading. When resident in -England, he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, -in paying visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever -was deemed worthy of curiosity, or of scientific observation, that it is -astonishing how he found the opportunity to compose the numerous books -which he published, and the much greater number of Papers, on almost -every subject, which still remain in manuscript; to say nothing of the -very extensive and voluminous correspondence which he appears to have -carried on during his long life, with men of the greatest eminence in -Church and State, and the most distinguished for learning, both -Englishmen and foreigners. In this correspondence he does not seem to -have made use of an amanuensis; and he has left transcripts in his own -hand of great numbers of letters both received and sent. He observes, -indeed, in one of these, that he seldom went to bed before twelve, or -closed his eyes before one o'clock. - -He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of an -enlightened mind, who had read much, and was skilled in etching and -painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and a -most affectionate mother. - -His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who settled in -Surrey. John, father of this George, was of Kingston, in 1520, and -married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Long -Ditton, near Kingston, which afterward came in the hands of George, who -there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He purchased very -considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of -three families, viz, Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton; John, at -Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these three families had the -title of Baronet conferred on them at different times, viz, at Godstone, -in 1660; Long Ditton, in 1683; and Wotton, in 1713. - -The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well as at -Long Ditton; but it does not appear that there ever was any mill at -Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a view. - -It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr. Evelyn's -father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudiments of -this son's learning were acquired from the village schoolmaster over the -porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and at -college, he himself speaks with great humility; nor did he add much to -his stock of knowledge, while he resided in the Middle Temple, to which -his father sent him, with the intention that he should apply to what he -calls "an impolished study," which he says he never liked. - -The "Biographia" does not notice his tour in France, Flanders, and -Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a volunteer in an -English regiment then in service in Flanders.[1] Nor does it notice his -having set out, with intent to join King Charles I. at Brentford; and -subsequently desisting when the result of that battle became known, on -the ground that his brother's as well as his own estates were so near -London as to be fully in power of the Parliament, and that their -continued adherence would have been certain ruin to themselves without -any advantage to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he asked and -obtained the King's leave to travel. Of these travels, and the -observations he made therein, an ample account is given in this Diary. - - [Footnote 1: This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the - fact of Evelyn's having witnessed a siege merely as a curious - spectator. He reached the camp on the 2d, and left it on the 8th of - August, 1641. It is certain, however, that during these six days he - took his turn on duty, and trailed a pike.--See Diary.] - -The national troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled plan -for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of living in the -most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he had even -begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he afterward -wholly abandon his intention, if the plan of a college, which he sent to -Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious idea. This scheme is -given at length in the "Biographia," and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the -"Sylva" in 1776; but it may be observed that he proposes it should not be -more than twenty-five miles from London. - -As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in -which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part and urges the preference to -which public employment and an active life is entitled,--it may be -considered as the playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, -would controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his -own opinion; if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham -Cowley, dated 12th March and 24th August, 1666, in the former of which he -writes: "You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name -it affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated recess, and envied it -in others, should become an advocate for the enemy, which of all others -it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am still of the -same mind, and that there is no person alive who does more honor and -breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and advance by -your example; but, as those who praised dirt, a flea, and the gout, so -have I public employment in that trifling Essay, and that in so weak a -style compared with my antagonist's, as by that alone it will appear I -neither was nor could be serious, and I hope you believe I speak my very -soul to you. - - '_Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra mista Camoenis - Otia sunt----_'" - -In the other, he says, "I pronounce it to you from my heart as oft as I -consider it, that I look on your fruitions with inexpressible emulation, -and should think myself more happy than crowned heads, were I, as you, -the arbiter of mine own life, and could break from those gilded toys to -taste your well-described joys with such a wife and such a friend, whose -conversation exceeds all that the mistaken world calls happiness." But, -in truth, Mr. Evelyn's mind was too active to admit of solitude at all -times, however desirable it might appear to him in theory. - -After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Cromwell, he -kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard Browne (his -father-in-law), the King's Ambassador at Paris; and though his connection -must have been known, it does not appear that he met with any -interruption from the government here. Indeed, though he remained a -decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate friends even -among those nearly connected with Cromwell; and to this we may attribute -his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he never did -take. In 1659, he published "An Apology for the Royal Party"; and soon -after printed a paper which was of great service to the King, entitled -"The Late News, or Message from Brussels Unmasked," which was an answer -to a pamphlet designed to represent the King in the worst light. - -On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at Court; and he became -engaged in many public employments, still attending to his studies and -literary pursuits. Among these, is particularly to be mentioned the Royal -Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he took a very active -part. He procured Mr. Howard's library to be given to them; and by his -influence, in 1667, the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the -University of Oxford. - -His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commissioner -for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and -regulating hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a -Commissioner on an inquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, etc., -concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a commission -for regulating the Mint; in the same year was appointed one of the -Commissioners for the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war; and -he was continued in the same employment in the second war with that -country. - -He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathedral, -shortly before it was burned in 1666. In that year he was also in a -commission for regulating the farming and making saltpetre; and in 1671 -we find him a Commissioner of Plantations on the establishment of the -board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 1672. - -In 1685 he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal, during the -absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his going -Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in -1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and, on the 30th of June, 1696, -laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed Treasurer, -with a salary of £200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before -he received any part of it. - -When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, proposing to instruct -himself in the art of shipbuilding, he was desirous of having the use of -Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the King's dockyard at -Deptford. This was conceded; but during his stay he did so much damage -that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it. He especially regrets -the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been -thought beyond the reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favorite -recreations had been to demolish the hedges by riding through them in a -wheelbarrow. - -October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying without male -issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate; and in May -following, he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he passed the -remainder of his life, with the exception of occasional visits to London, -where he retained a house. In the great storm of 1703, he mentions in his -last edition of the "Sylva," above one thousand trees were blown down in -sight of his residence. - -He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-6, in the -eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His lady survived -him nearly three years, dying 9th February, 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth -year, and was buried near him at Wotton. - -Of Evelyn's children, a son, who died at the age of five, and a daughter, -who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. The particulars -of their extraordinary endowments, and the profound manner in which he -was affected at their deaths, may be seen in these volumes. - -One daughter was well and happily settled; another less so; but she did -not survive her marriage more than a few months. The only son who lived -to the age of manhood, inherited his father's love of learning, and -distinguished himself by several publications. - -Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner for the care of the Sick and -Wounded was very laborious; and, from the nature of it, must have been -extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labor was in his department, which -included all the ports between the river Thames and Portsmouth; and he -had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the -execution of his office, to which he gave the strictest attention. It -was rendered still more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he -found in procuring money for support of the prisoners. In the library at -Wotton, are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and Officers -of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress of the -poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries for -them. At one time, there were such arrears of payment to the victuallers, -that, on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay some time in the -streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their -houses. After all this trouble and fatigue, he found as great difficulty -in getting his accounts settled.[2] In January, 1665-6, he formed a plan -for an Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid -before the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it; but it does -not appear that it was carried into execution. - - [Footnote 2: 2d October, 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, - Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, - complaining of want of money for the prisoners: praying that while - he and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons and all - that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable service, they may not be - exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning their care; and - adding that they have lost their officers and servants by the - pestilence, and are hourly environed with the saddest objects of - perishing people. "I have," says he, "fifteen places full of sick - men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble; the magistrates and - justices, who should further us in our exigencies, hindering the - people from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and - causing them to shut the doors at our approach."] - -His employments, in connection with the repair of St. Paul's (which, -however, occupied him but a brief time), as in the Commission of Trade -and Plantations, and in the building of Greenwich Hospital, were much -better adapted to his inclinations and pursuits. - -As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of King James II., he -had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to the -Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be affixed to many -things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This, on some -occasions, he refused to do, particularly to a license to Dr. Obadiah -Walker to print Popish books;[3] and on other occasions he absented -himself, leaving it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought -fit. Such, however, was the King's estimation of him, that no displeasure -was evinced on this account. - - [Footnote 3: Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, - but had renounced it, and turned Papist.] - -Of Evelyn's attempt to bring Colonel Morley (Cromwell's Lieutenant of the -Tower, immediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's -interest, an imperfect account is given in the "Biographia." The fact is, -that there was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Evelyn did -endeavor to engage the Colonel in the King's interest. He saw him several -times, and put his life into his hands by writing to him on 12th January, -1659-60; he did not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his friend -to betray him; but so far from the Colonel having settled matters -privately with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper, or General Monk, as there -described, he was obliged, when the Restoration took place, actually to -apply to Evelyn to procure his pardon; who obtained it accordingly, -though, as he states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a large sum of money -for it. This could not have happened, if there had been any previous -negotiation with General Monk. - -Dr. Campbell took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's book, entitled, -"Navigation and Commerce, their Origin and Progress," from the charge of -being an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. -But the Doctor, who had not the information which this Journal so amply -affords on this subject, was not aware that what was so printed was -nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War; a work -undertaken by Evelyn at the express command of King Charles II., and the -materials for which were furnished by the Officers of State. The -completion of this work, after considerable progress had been made in it, -was put a stop to by the King himself, for what reason does not appear; -but perhaps it was found that Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the -truth concerning a transaction, which it will be seen by his Journal that -he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far as he had -proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend, Mr. Pepys, of the -Admiralty, who did not return it; but the books and manuscripts belonging -to Mr. Pepys passed into the possession of Magdalen College, Cambridge. - -From the numerous authors who have spoken in high terms of Mr. Evelyn, we -will select the two following notices of him. - -In the "Biographia Britannica" Dr. Campbell says, "It is certain that -very few authors who have written in our language deserve the character -of able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was -acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, -yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from being -a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had learning; and -he knew how to give all these a proper place in his works, so as never to -pass for a pedant, even with such as were least in love with literature, -and to be justly esteemed a polite author by those who knew it best." - -Horace Walpole (afterward Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue of Engravers, -gives us the following admirably drawn character: "If Mr. Evelyn had not -been an artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, I should yet have -found it difficult to deny myself the pleasure of allotting him a place -among the arts he loved, promoted, patronized; and it would be but -justice to inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, as I -have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise him. But they are -trifling blemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence; and -it may be remarked that the worst I have said of him is, that he knew -more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that -a man's intelligence and philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write -his biography, but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to -eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, -and benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labors of the -creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of -the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from -examination; was a courtier that flattered only by informing his Prince, -and by pointing out what was worthy of him to countenance; and really was -the neighbor of the Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been -the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works will subscribe to -my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of the Royal Society; a -patron of the ingenious and the indigent; and peculiarly serviceable to -the lettered world; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he -obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and the -Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. Nor is it the least part of his -praise, that he who proposed to Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical -College for retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write in -defense of active life against Sir George Mackenzie's 'Essay on -Solitude.' He knew that retirement, in his own hands, was industry and -benefit to mankind; but in those of others, laziness and inutility." - -Evelyn was buried in the Dormitory adjoining Wotton Church. - -On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin, raised about -three feet above the floor, is inscribed: - - Here lies the Body - of JOHN EVELYN, Esq., - of this place, second son - of Richard Evelyn, Esq.; - who having serv'd the Publick - in several employments, of which that - of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the - Reign of King James the 2d was most - honourable, and perpetuated his fame - by far more lasting monuments than - those of Stone or Brass, his learned - and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day - of February 1705-6, being the 86 year - of his age, in full hope of a glorious - Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ. - Living in an age of extraordinary - Events and Revolutions, he learnt - (as himself asserted) this Truth, - which pursuant to his intention - is here declared-- - _That all is vanity which is not honest, - and that there is no solid wisdom - but in real Piety._ - Of five Sons and three Daughters - born to him from his most - vertuous and excellent Wife, - Mary, sole daughter and heiress - of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes - Court near Deptford in Kent, - onely one daughter, Susanna, - married to William Draper - Esq., of Adscomb in this - County, survived him; the - two others dying in the - flower of their age, and - all the Sons very young, except - one named John, who - deceased 24 March, 1698-9, - in the 45 year of his age, - leaving one son, John, and - one daughter, Elizabeth. - - - - -VOLUME I. - -1620-1664 - - -VOLUME II. - -1665-1706 - - - - -DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. - - -I was born at Wotton, in the County of Surrey, about twenty minutes past -two in the morning, being on Tuesday the 31st and last of October, 1620, -after my father had been married about seven years,[4] and that my mother -had borne him three children; viz, two daughters and one son, about the -33d year of his age, and the 23d of my mother's. - - [Footnote 4: He was married at St. Thomas's, Southwark, 27th - January, 1613. My sister Eliza was born at nine at night, 28th - November, 1614; Jane at four in the morning, 16th February, 1616; my - brother George at nine at night, Wednesday, 18th June, 1617; and my - brother Richard, 9th November, 1622.--_Note by Evelyn._] - -[Sidenote: WOTTON] - -My father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash -of choler: his hair inclining to light, which, though exceedingly thick, -became hoary by the time he had attained to thirty years of age; it was -somewhat curled toward the extremities; his beard, which he wore a little -peaked, as the mode was, of a brownish color, and so continued to the -last, save that it was somewhat mingled with gray hairs about his cheeks, -which, with his countenance, were clear and fresh-colored; his eyes -extraordinary quick and piercing; an ample forehead,--in sum, a very -well-composed visage and manly aspect: for the rest, he was but low of -stature, yet very strong. He was, for his life, so exact and temperate, -that I have heard he had never been surprised by excess, being ascetic -and sparing. His wisdom was great, and his judgment most acute; of solid -discourse, affable, humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving, neat, -silent, and methodical genius, discreetly severe, yet liberal upon all -just occasions, both to his children, to strangers, and servants; a lover -of hospitality; and, in brief, of a singular and Christian moderation in -all his actions; not illiterate, nor obscure, as, having continued -Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum, he served his country as High -Sheriff, being, as I take it, the last dignified with that office for -Sussex and Surrey together, the same year, before their separation. He -was yet a studious decliner of honors and titles; being already in that -esteem with his country, that they could have added little to him besides -their burden. He was a person of that rare conversation that, upon -frequent recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and -discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion, or -inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about £4000 per annum, well wooded, -and full of timber. - -My mother's name was Eleanor, sole daughter and heiress of John -Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and honorable family (though now -extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and -well-known house in Sussex. She was of proper personage; of a brown -complexion; her eyes and hair of a lovely black; of constitution more -inclined to a religious melancholy, or pious sadness; of a rare memory, -and most exemplary life; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the -most conspicuous in her country: which rendered her loss much deplored, -both by those who knew, and such as only heard of her. - -Thus much, in brief, touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should -speak less of them to whom I owe so much. - -The place of my birth was Wotton, in the parish of Wotton, or Blackheath, -in the county of Surrey, the then mansion-house of my father, left him by -my grandfather, afterward and now my eldest brother's. It is situated in -the most southern part of the shire; and, though in a valley, yet really -upon part of Leith Hill, one of the most eminent in England for the -prodigious prospect to be seen from its summit, though by few observed. -From it may be discerned twelve or thirteen counties, with part of the -sea on the coast of Sussex, in a serene day. The house is large and -ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed -with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the judgment of -strangers as well as Englishmen it may be compared to one of the most -pleasant seats in the nation, and most tempting for a great person and a -wanton purse to render it conspicuous. It has rising grounds, meadows, -woods, and water, in abundance. - -The distance from London little more than twenty miles, and yet so -securely placed, as if it were one hundred; three miles from Dorking, -which serves it abundantly with provision as well of land as sea; six -from Guildford, twelve from Kingston. I will say nothing of the air, -because the pre-eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being -dry and sandy; but I should speak much of the gardens, fountains, and -groves that adorn it, were they not as generally known to be among the -most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury of the whole -nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that -England afforded; and which indeed gave one of the first examples to that -elegancy, since so much in vogue, and followed in the managing of their -waters, and other elegancies of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity -of five or six manors, the patronage of the livings about it, and what -Themistocles pronounced for none of the least advantages--the good -neighborhood. All which conspire here to render it an honorable and -handsome royalty, fit for the present possessor, my worthy brother, and -his noble lady, whose constant liberality gives them title both to the -place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet: - - _Nescio quā natale solum dulcedine cunctos - Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui._ - -I had given me the name of my grandfather, my mother's father, who, -together with a sister of Sir Thomas Evelyn, of Long Ditton, and Mr. -Comber, a near relation of my mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity -(yet upon what accident I know not, unless some indisposition in me) was -performed in the dining-room by Parson Higham, the present incumbent of -the parish, according to the forms prescribed by the then glorious Church -of England. - -I was now (in regard to my mother's weakness, or rather custom of persons -of quality) put to nurse to one Peter, a neighbor's wife and tenant, of a -good, comely, brown, wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place -toward the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with streams; the -affection to which kind of solitude I sucked in with my very milk. It -appears, by a note of my father's, that I sucked till 17th of January, -1622, or at least I came not home before.[5] - - [Footnote 5: The whole of this passage, so characteristic of the - writer's tastes and genius, and both the paragraphs before and after - it, are printed for the first time in this edition. Portions of the - preceding description of Wotton are also first taken from the - original; and it may not be out of place to add that, more - especially in the first fifty pages of this volume, a very large - number of curious and interesting additions are made to Evelyn's - text from the Manuscript of the Diary at Wotton.] - -1623. The very first thing that I can call to memory, and from which time -forward I began to observe, was this year (1623) my youngest brother, -being in his nurse's arms, who, being then two days and nine months -younger than myself, was the last child of my dear parents. - -1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments until near four years of -age, and then one Frier taught us at the church-porch of Wotton; and I do -perfectly remember the great talk and stir about Il Conde Gondomar, now -Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was the match of our -Prince with the Infanta proposed); and the effects of that comet, 1618, -still working in the prodigious revolutions now beginning in Europe, -especially in Germany, whose sad commotions sprang from the Bohemians' -defection from the Emperor Matthias; upon which quarrel the Swedes broke -in, giving umbrage to the rest of the princes, and the whole Christian -world cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying perfect tranquillity. - -1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of King Charles) sent -by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be with my grandfather, Standsfield, -with whom I passed my childhood. This was the year in which the -pestilence was so epidemical, that there died in London 5,000 a week, and -I well remember the strict watches and examinations upon the ways as we -passed; and I was shortly after so dangerously sick of a fever that (as I -have heard) the physicians despaired of me. - -1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell, no ill painter. - -1627. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on the 5th of -February: I remember perfectly the solemnity at his funeral. He was -buried in the parish church of All Souls, where my grandmother, his -second wife, erected him a pious monument. About this time, was the -consecration of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, -Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was afterward minister); -the building whereof was chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having -the impropriation, gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward -sold the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the building of -the church. - -1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn my Latin -rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very -well remember that general muster previous to the Isle of Rhč's -expedition, and that I was one day awakened in the morning with the news -of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton, after our -disgrace before La Rochelle. And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to -drawing and designing, that I could never after wean my inclinations from -it, to the expense of much precious time, which might have been more -advantageously employed. I was now put to school to one Mr. Potts, in the -Cliff at Lewes, from whom, on the 7th of January, 1630, being the day -after Epiphany, I went to the free-school at Southover, near the town, of -which one Agnes Morley had been the foundress, and now Edward Snatt was -the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the University.[6] -This year, my grandmother (with whom I sojourned) being married to one -Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gentleman, we went from the -Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover. I do most perfectly remember -the jubilee which was universally expressed for the happy birth of the -Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now Charles II., our most gracious -Sovereign. - - [Footnote 6: Long afterward, Evelyn was in the habit of paying great - respect to his old teacher.] - -1631. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in England, corn bearing -an excessive price; and, in imitation of what I had seen my father do, I -began to observe matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in -a blank almanac. The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment for many shameful -exorbitances was now all the talk, and the birth of the Princess Mary, -afterward Princess of Orange. - -21st October, 1632. My eldest sister was married to Edward Darcy, Esq., -who little deserved so excellent a person, a woman of so rare virtue. I -was not present at the nuptials; but I was soon afterward sent for into -Surrey, and my father would willingly have weaned me from my fondness of -my too indulgent grandmother, intending to have placed me at Eton; but, -not being so provident for my own benefit, and unreasonably terrified -with the report of the severe discipline there, I was sent back to Lewes; -which perverseness of mine I have since a thousand times deplored. This -was the first time that ever my parents had seen all their children -together in prosperity. While I was now trifling at home, I saw London, -where I lay one night only. The next day, I dined at Beddington, where I -was much delighted with the gardens and curiosities. Thence, we returned -to the Lady Darcy's, at Sutton; thence to Wotton; and, on the 16th of -August following, 1633, back to Lewes. - -3d November, 1633. This year my father was appointed Sheriff, the last, -as I think, who served in that honorable office for Surrey and Sussex, -before they were disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one -liveried in green satin doublets; divers gentlemen and persons of quality -waited on him in the same garb and habit, which at that time (when thirty -or forty was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great -matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my father exceeded (who -was one of the greatest decliners of it); but because he could not refuse -the civility of his friends and relations, who voluntarily came -themselves, or sent in their servants. But my father was afterward most -unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering judge, Richardson, for -reprieving the execution of a woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then -Admiral: but out of this he emerged with as much honor as trouble. The -king made this year his progress into Scotland, and Duke James was born. - -15th December, 1634: My dear sister, Darcy, departed this life, being -arrived to her 20th year of age; in virtue advanced beyond her years, or -the merit of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to bed -the 2d of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the 24th of -December. I was therefore sent for home the second time, to celebrate the -obsequies of my sister; who was interred in a very honorable manner in -our dormitory joining to the parish church, where now her monument -stands. - -1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously sick, I was, on the 3d of -September following, sent for to Wotton. Whom I found so far spent, that, -all human assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner departed this -life upon the 29th of the same month, about eight in the evening of -Michaelmas-day. It was a malignant fever which took her away, about the -37th of her age, and 22d of her marriage, to our irreparable loss and the -regret of all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible cause of her -indisposition proceeded from grief upon the loss of her daughter, and the -infant that followed it; and it is as certain, that when she perceived -the peril whereto its excess had engaged her, she strove to compose -herself and allay it; but it was too late, and she was forced to succumb. -Therefore summoning all her children then living (I shall never forget -it), she expressed herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so -pious and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary -loss then imminent; after which, embracing every one of us she gave to -each a ring with her blessing and dismissed us. Then, taking my father by -the hand, she recommended us to his care; and, because she was extremely -zealous for the education of my younger brother, she requested my father -that he might be sent with me to Lewes; and so having importuned him that -what he designed to bestow on her funeral, he would rather dispose among -the poor, she labored to compose herself for the blessed change which she -now expected. There was not a servant in the house whom she did not -expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her counsel. Thus -she continued to employ her intervals, either instructing her relations, -or preparing of herself. - -Though her physicians, Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, had given -over all hopes of her recovery, and Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his -celebrated and famous powder, yet she was many days impairing, and -endured the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable patience -and most Christian resignation, retaining both her intellectuals and -ardent affections for her dissolution, to the very article of her -departure. When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of -her children; and taking solemn leave of my father, with elevated heart -and eyes, she quietly expired, and resigned her soul to God. Thus ended -that prudent and pious woman, in the flower of her age, to the -inconsolable affliction of her husband, irreparable loss of her children, -and universal regret of all that knew her. She was interred, as near as -might be, to her daughter Darcy, the 3d of October, at night, but with no -mean ceremony. - -It was the 3d of the ensuing November, after my brother George was gone -back to Oxford, ere I returned to Lewes, when I made way, according to -instructions received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was sent -the 12th after. - -1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence much increased in -London, and divers parts of England. - -13th February, 1637: I was especially admitted (and, as I remember, my -other brother) into the Middle Temple, London, though absent, and as yet -at school. There were now large contributions to the distressed -Palatinates. - -The 10th of December my father sent a servant to bring us necessaries, -and the plague beginning now to cease, on the 3d of April, 1637, I left -school, where, till about the last year, I have been extremely remiss in -my studies; so as I went to the University rather out of shame of abiding -longer at school, than for any fitness, as by sad experience I found: -which put me to re-learn all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily -gained. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -10th May, 1637. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of Baliol College, -Oxford; and, on the 29th, I was matriculated in the vestry of St. Mary's, -where I subscribed the Articles, and took the oaths: Dr. Baily, head of -St. John's, being vice-chancellor, afterward bishop. It appears by a -letter of my father's, that he was upon treaty with one Mr. Bathurst -(afterward Doctor and President), of Trinity College, who should have -been my tutor; but, lest my brother's tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in -his life than industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an affront, -and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol were no more exempt -from exercise than the meanest scholars there, my father sent me thither -to one Mr. George Bradshaw (_nomen invisum!_ yet the son of an excellent -father, beneficed in Surrey). I ever thought my tutor had parts enough; -but as his ambition made him much suspected of the College, so his grudge -to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterward supplanted), took -up so much of his time, that he seldom or never had the opportunity to -discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, associated myself -with one Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of the foundation, -afterward a Fellow of the house), by whose learned and friendly -conversation I received great advantage. At my first arrival, Dr. -Parkhurst was master: and after his decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of -his Majesty's and Margaret Professor, succeeded, an acute and learned -person; nor do I much reproach his severity, considering that the -extraordinary remissness of discipline had (till his coming) much -detracted from the reputation of that College. - -There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel Conopios, out of -Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of Constantinople, who, returning many -years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the -first I ever saw drink coffee; which custom came not into England till -thirty years after.[7] - - [Footnote 7: Evelyn should have said "till twenty years after," not - thirty. Coffee was introduced into England, and coffee-houses set - up, in 1658.] - -After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was the -University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William -Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor -to the library of the College, these books--"_ex dono Johannis Evelyni, -hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, č com. Surrię, -armig^r_."-- - -"_Zanchii Opera_," vols. 1, 2, 3. - -"_Granado in Thomam Aquinatem_," vols. 1, 2, 3. - -"_Novarini Electa Sacra_" and "_Cresolii Anthologia Sacra_"; authors, it -seems, much desired by the students of divinity there. - -Upon the 2d of July, being the first Sunday of the month, I first -received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord's Supper in the college -chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow of the house, preaching; and at this -time was the Church of England in her greatest splendor, all things -decent, and becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed. The most -of the following week I spent in visiting the Colleges, and several -rarities of the University, which do very much affect young comers. - -18th July, 1637. I accompanied my eldest brother, who then quitted -Oxford, into the country; and, on the 9th of August, went to visit my -friends at Lewes, whence I returned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th of -September, I received the blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and 23d of -October went back to Oxford. - -5th November, 1637. I received again the Holy Communion in our college -chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad one), preaching. - -9th December, 1637. I offered at my first exercise in the Hall, and -answered my opponent; and, upon the 11th following, declaimed in the -chapel before the Master, Fellows, and Scholars, according to the custom. -The 15th after, I first of all opposed in the Hall. - -The Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the gentlemen of Exeter -College presented to the University, and standing, for the better -advantage of seeing, upon a table in the Hall, which was near to another, -in the dark, being constrained by the extraordinary press to quit my -station, in leaping down to save myself I dashed my right leg with such -violence against the sharp edge of the other board, as gave me a hurt -which held me in cure till almost Easter, and confined me to my study. - -22d January, 1638. I would needs be admitted into the dancing and -vaulting schools; of which late activity one Stokes, the master, did -afterward set forth a pretty book, which was published, with many witty -elogies before it. - -4th February, 1638. One Mr. Wariner preached in our chapel; and, on the -25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman of the Earl of Strafford; after which -followed the blessed Sacrament. - -13th April, 1638. My father ordered that I should begin to manage my own -expenses, which till then my tutor had done; at which I was much -satisfied. - -[Sidenote: PORTSMOUTH] - -9th July, 1638. I went home to visit my friends, and, on the 26th, with -my brother and sister to Lewes, where we abode till the 31st; and thence -to one Mr. Michael's, of Houghton, near Arundel, where we were very well -treated; and, on the 2d of August, to Portsmouth, and thence, having -surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity in that blessed halcyon time -in England), we passed into the Isle of Wight, to the house of my Lady -Richards, in a place called Yaverland; but were turned the following day -to Chichester, where, having viewed the city and fair cathedral, we -returned home. - -About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted with a quartan ague, -that I could by no means get rid of it till the December following. This -was the fatal year wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon -the pretense of the introduction of some new ceremonies and the Book of -Common Prayer, and madly began our confusions, and their own destruction, -too, as it proved in event. - -14th January, 1639. I came back to Oxford, after my tedious -indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time; and now I began to -look upon the rudiments of music, in which I afterward arrived to some -formal knowledge, though to small perfection of hand, because I was so -frequently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles. - -20th May, 1639. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafford (who afterward being -my fellow-traveler in Italy, there changed his religion), I took a -journey of pleasure to see the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, -Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other towns of lesser note; and returned -the 25th. - -8th October, 1639. I went back to Oxford. - -14th December, 1639. According to injunctions from the Heads of Colleges, -I went (among the rest) to the Confirmation at St. Mary's, where, after -sermon, the Bishop of Oxford laid his hands upon us, with the usual form -of benediction prescribed: but this received (I fear) for the more part -out of curiosity, rather than with that due preparation and advice which -had been requisite, could not be so effectual as otherwise that admirable -and useful institution might have been, and as I have since deplored it. - -21st January, 1640. Came my brother, Richard, from school, to be my -chamber-fellow at the University. He was admitted the next day and -matriculated the 31st. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -11th April, 1640. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Majesty's -riding through the city in state to the Short Parliament, which began the -13th following,--a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled -with his royal diadem and the affections of his people: but the day after -I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my father's indisposition -suffering great intervals, till April 27th, when I was sent to London to -be first resident at the Middle Temple: so as my being at the University, -in regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to me. Upon May -the 5th following, was the Parliament unhappily dissolved; and, on the -20th I returned with my brother George to Wotton, who, on the 28th of the -same month, was married at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of an -ancient Leicestershire family, where part of the nuptials were -celebrated). - -10th June, 1640. I repaired with my brother to the term, to go into our -new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-court), being a very handsome -apartment just over against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, -which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much -contribute to the love of that impolished study, to which (I suppose) my -father had designed me, when he paid £145 to purchase our present lives, -and assignments afterward. - -London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent -disorders, and great insolences were committed by the abused and too -happy City: in particular, the Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lambeth -was assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark, my Lord Chamberlain -imprisoned and many scandalous libels and invectives scattered about the -streets, to the reproach of Government, and the fermentation of our since -distractions: so that, upon the 25th of June, I was sent for to Wotton, -and the 27th after, my father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of -the physicians he repaired to the Bath. - -7th July, 1640. My brother George and I, understanding the peril my -father was in upon a sudden attack of his infirmity, rode post from -Guildford toward him, and found him extraordinary weak; yet so as that, -continuing his course, he held out till the 8th of September, when I -returned home with him in his litter. - -15th October, 1640. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas Term. - -30th December, 1640. I saw his Majesty (coming from his Northern -Expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a -happy peace, restored to the affections of his people, being conducted -through London with a most splendid cavalcade; and on the 3d of November -following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse), to that long -ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our -sorrows for twenty years after, and the period of the most happy monarch -in the world: _Quis talia fando!_ - -But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy, an indisposition -the most unsuspected, being a person so exemplarily temperate, and of -admirable regimen, hastened me back to Wotton, December the 12th; where, -the 24th following, between twelve and one o'clock at noon, departed this -life that excellent man and indulgent parent, retaining his senses and -piety to the last, which he most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom -he now left to the world and the worst of times, while he was taken from -the evil to come. - -1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the year, when on the 2d -of January, 1640-1, we at night followed the mourning hearse to the -church at Wotton; when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the -minister, my father was interred near his formerly erected monument, and -mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear wife. Thus we were bereft -of both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of -their counsel and assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, -uncertain, and very unwary inclination: but so it pleased God to make -trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious -hazard that ever the youth of England saw; and, if I did not amidst all -this impeach my liberty nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of -both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the least -providence or discretion of mine own, who now thought of nothing but the -pursuit of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. - -15th April, 1641. I repaired to London to hear and see the famous trial -of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who, on the 22d of -March, had been summoned before both Houses of Parliament, and now -appeared in Westminster-hall,[8] which was prepared with scaffolds for -the Lords and Commons, who, together with the King, Queen, Prince, and -flower of the noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest -malice and the greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrous an -assembly. It was Thomas, Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of -England, who was made High Steward upon this occasion; and the sequel is -too well known to need any notice of the event. - - [Footnote 8: On the 15th of April Strafford made his eloquent - defense, which it seems to have been Evelyn's good fortune to be - present at. And here the reader may remark the fact, not without - significance, that between the entries on this page of the Diary - which relate to Lord Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over - to make love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old; and that - the marriage was subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court - rejoicings and festivities, in which the King took a prominent part, - during the short interval which elapsed between the sentence and - execution of the King's great and unfortunate minister.] - -On the 27th of April, came over out of Holland the young Prince of -Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love to his Majesty's eldest -daughter, the now Princess Royal. - -That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of the Duke of Richmond, -who was carried in effigy, with all the ensigns of that illustrious -family, in an open chariot, in great solemnity, through London to -Westminster Abbey. - -On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fatal stroke which severed -the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, -whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law or statute, a new -one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction. With what -reluctancy the King signed the execution, he has sufficiently expressed; -to which he imputes his own unjust suffering--to such exorbitancy were -things arrived. - -On the 24th of May, I returned to Wotton; and, on the 28th of June, I -went to London with my sister, Jane, and the day after sat to one -Vanderborcht for my picture in oil, at Arundel-house, whose servant that -excellent painter was, brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from -Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary, with great pomp and -charge, though without any effect, through the artifice of the Jesuited -Spaniard who governed all in that conjuncture). With Vanderborcht, the -painter, he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, who engraved -not only the unhappy Deputy's trial in Westminster-hall, but his -decapitation; as he did several other historical things, then relating to -the accidents happening during the Rebellion in England, with great -skill; besides many cities, towns, and landscapes, not only of this -nation, but of foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons then -in being; and things designed from the best pieces of the rare paintings -and masters of which the Earl of Arundel was possessor, purchased and -collected in his travels with incredible expense: so as, though Hollar's -were but etched in aquafortis, I account the collection to be the most -authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the son of a gentleman near -Prague, in Bohemia, and my very good friend, perverted at last by the -Jesuits at Antwerp to change his religion; a very honest, simple, -well-meaning man, who at last came over again into England, where he -died. We have the whole history of the king's reign, from his trial in -Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration of King Charles II., -represented in several sculptures, with that also of Archbishop Laud, by -this indefatigable artist; besides innumerable sculptures in the works of -Dugdale, Ashmole, and other historical and useful works. I am the more -particular upon this for the fruit of that collection, which I wish I had -entire. - -This picture[9] I presented to my sister, being at her request, on my -resolution to absent myself from this ill face of things at home, which -gave umbrage to wiser than myself that the medal was reversing, and our -calamities but yet in their infancy: so that, on the 15th of July, having -procured a pass at the Custom-house, where I repeated my oath of -allegiance, I went from London to Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. -Caryll, a Surrey gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived by six -o'clock that evening, with a purpose to take the first opportunity of a -passage for Holland. But the wind as yet not favorable, we had time to -view the Block-house of that town, which answered to another over against -it at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous of Queen Elizabeth, in the year -1588, which we found stored with twenty pieces of cannon, and other -ammunition proportionable. On the 19th of July, we made a short excursion -to Rochester, and having seen the cathedral went to Chatham to see the -Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel of burden lately built there, being -for defense and ornament, the richest that ever spread cloth before the -wind. She carried an hundred brass cannon, and was 1,200 tons; a rare -sailer, the work of the famous Phineas Pett, inventor of the -frigate-fashion of building, to this day practiced. But what is to be -deplored as to this vessel is, that it cost his Majesty the affections of -his subjects, perverted by the malcontent of great ones, who took -occasion to quarrel for his having raised a very slight tax for the -building of this, and equipping the rest of the navy, without an act of -Parliament; though, by the suffrages of the major part of the Judges the -King might legally do in times of imminent danger, of which his Majesty -was best apprised. But this not satisfying a jealous party, it was -condemned as unprecedented, and not justifiable as to the Royal -prerogative; and, accordingly, the Judges were removed out of their -places, fined, and imprisoned.[10] - - [Footnote 9: His own portrait.] - - [Footnote 10: In such manner Evelyn refers to the tax of Ship-money. - But compare this remarkable passage, now first printed from the - original, with the tone in which, eight years later, he spoke of the - only chance by which monarchy in England might be saved; namely, - that of "doing nothing as to government but what shall be approved - by the old way of a free parliament, and the known laws of the - land."] - -We returned again this evening, and on the 21st of July embarked in a -Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, convoyed and accompanied by five other -stout vessels, whereof one was a man-of-war. The next day at noon, we -landed at Flushing. - -[Sidenote: DE VERE] - -Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,[11] which was then before Genep, -ere the summer should be too far spent, we went this evening from -Flushing to Middleburg, another fine town in this island, to De Vere, -whence the most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their -family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the state during their -wars. From De Vere we passed over many towns, houses, and ruins of -demolished suburbs, etc., which have formerly been swallowed up by the -sea; at what time no less than eight of those islands had been -irrecoverably lost. - - [Footnote 11: The meaning of this expression is, that they should be - in time to witness the siege.] - -The next day we arrived at Dort, the first town of Holland, furnished -with all German commodities, and especially Rhenish wines and timber. It -hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable church; a -stately senate house, wherein was holden that famous synod against the -Arminians in 1618; and in that hall hangeth a picture of "The Passion," -an exceeding rare and much-esteemed piece. - -From Dort, being desirous to hasten toward the army, I took wagon this -afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we were hurried in less than an hour, -though it be ten miles distant; so furiously do those Foremen drive. I -went first to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the -public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They showed us his house, -or rather the mean cottage, wherein he was born, over which there are -extant these lines, in capital letters: - - ĘDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS - ARTIBUS INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE. - -The 26th of July I passed by a straight and commodious river through -Delft to the Hague; in which journey I observed divers leprous poor -creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the brink of the water, and -permitted to ask the charity of passengers, which is conveyed to them in -a floating box that they cast out. - -Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of Bohemia's court, where -I had the honor to kiss her Majesty's hand, and several of the -Princesses', her daughters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out -of Germany; and my Lord Finch, not long before fled out of England from -the fury of the Parliament. It was a fasting day with the Queen for the -unfortunate death of her husband, and the presence chamber had been hung -with black velvet ever since his decease. - -[Sidenote: NIMEGUEN] - -The 28th of July I went to Leyden; and the 29th to Utrecht, being thirty -English miles distant (as they reckon by hours). It was now Kermas, or a -fair, in this town, the streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so -that early the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop's court, -and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curiosity till my return, and -better leisure. We then came to Rynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a -neat and well built palace, or country house, after the Italian manner, -as I remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon which this villa is -situated, lodged that night in a countryman's house. The 31st to -Nimeguen; and on the 2d of August we arrived at the Leagure, where was -then the whole army encamped about Genep, a very strong castle situated -on the river Waal; but, being taken four or five days before, we had only -a sight of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons -performed in Colonel Goring's regiment (eldest son of the since Earl of -Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned Roman, and -father-confessor to the Queen-mother). The evening was spent in firing -cannon and other expressions of military triumphs. - -Now, according to the compliment, I was received a volunteer in the -company of Captain Apsley, of whose Captain-lieutenant, Honywood (Apsley -being absent), I received many civilities. - -The 3d of August, at night, we rode about the lines of circumvallation, -the general being then in the field. The next day I was accommodated with -a very spacious and commodious tent for my lodging; as before I was with -a horse, which I had at command, and a hut which during the excessive -heats was a great convenience; for the sun piercing the canvas of the -tent, it was during the day unsufferable, and at night not seldom -infested with mists and fogs, which ascended from the river. - -6th August, 1641. As the turn came about, we were ordered to watch on a -horn-work near our quarters, and trail a pike, being the next morning -relieved by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the -castle was refortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured; -whence I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not far from our -quarters, where we found both the chapel and refectory full, crowded with -the goods of such poor people as at the approach of the army had fled -with them thither for sanctuary. On the day following, I went to view all -the trenches, approaches, and mines, etc. of the besiegers; and, in -particular, I took special notice of the wheel-bridge, which engine his -Excellency had made to run over the moat when they stormed the castle; as -it is since described (with all the other particulars of this siege) by -the author of that incomparable work, "Hollandia Illustrata." The walls -and ramparts of earth, which a mine had broken and crumbled, were of -prodigious thickness. - -Upon the 8th of August, I dined in the horse-quarters with Sir Robert -Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, and divers Cavaliers; where -there was very good cheer, but hot service for a young drinker, as then I -was; so that, being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies -and sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called, where -their quarters and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so -exactly observed, as few cities, the best governed in time of peace, -exceed it for all conveniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and -Camerades; and, on the 12th of August, I embarked on the "Waal," in -company with three grave divines, who entertained us a great part of our -passage with a long dispute concerning the lawfulness of church-music. We -now sailed by Teil, where we landed some of our freight; and about five -o'clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that had divers -English in garrison. It stands upon Contribution-land, which subjects the -environs to the Spanish incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong -fort called Lovestein, famous for the escape of the learned Hugo Grotius, -who, being in durance as a capital offender, as was the unhappy -Barneveldt, by the stratagem of his lady, was conveyed in a trunk -supposed to be filled with books only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong -and considerable frontier. - -13th August, 1641. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was their annual -mart or fair, so furnished with pictures (especially landscapes and -drolleries, as they call those clownish representations), that I was -amazed. Some of these I bought and sent into England. The reason of this -store of pictures, and their cheapness, proceeds from their want of land -to employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find a common -farmer lay out two or three thousand pounds in this commodity. Their -houses are full of them, and they vend them at their fairs to very great -gains. Here I first saw an elephant, who was extremely well disciplined -and obedient. It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as flexible and -nimble in the joints, contrary to the vulgar tradition, as could be -imagined from so prodigious a bulk and strange fabric; but I most of all -admired the dexterity and strength of its proboscis, on which it was able -to support two or three men, and by which it took and reached whatever -was offered to it; its teeth were but short, being a female, and not old. -I was also shown a pelican, or _onocratulas_ of Pliny, with its large -gullets, in which he kept his reserve of fish; the plumage was white, -legs red, flat, and film-footed, likewise a cock with four legs, two -rumps and vents: also a hen which had two large spurs growing out of her -sides, penetrating the feathers of her wings. - -17th August, 1641. I passed again through Delft, and visited the church -in which was the monument of Prince William of Nassau,--the first of the -Williams, and savior (as they call him) of their liberty, which cost him -his life by a vile assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting -of several figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the same -place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor, Maurice. The -senate-house hath a very stately portico, supported with choice columns -of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs -a weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which the -adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to wear on her -shoulders, her head peeping out at the top only, and so led about the -town, as a penance for her incontinence. From hence, we went the next day -to Ryswick, a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, for nothing -more remarkable than the delicious walks planted with lime trees, and the -modern paintings within. - -[Sidenote: HAGUE] - -[Sidenote: AMSTERDAM] - -19th August, 1641. We returned to the Hague, and went to visit the Hoff, -or Prince's Court, with the adjoining gardens full of ornament, close -walks, statues, marbles, grots, fountains, and artificial music. There is -to this palace a stately hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, -hung round with colors and other trophies taken from the Spaniards;[12] -and the sides below are furnished with shops. Next day (the 20th) I -returned to Delft, thence to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, where -immediately I mounted a wagon, which that night, late as it was, brought -us to Haerlem. About seven in the morning after I came to Amsterdam, -where being provided with a lodging, the first thing I went to see was a -Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday), whose ceremonies, ornaments, -lamps, law, and schools, afforded matter for my contemplation. The women -were secluded from the men, being seated in galleries above, shut with -lattices, having their heads muffled with linen, after a fantastical and -somewhat extraordinary fashion; the men, wearing a large calico mantle, -yellow colored, over their hats, all the while waving their bodies, while -at their devotions. From thence, I went to a place without the town, -called Overkirk, where they have a spacious field assigned them to bury -their dead, full of sepulchers with Hebraic inscriptions, some of them -stately and costly. Looking through one of these monuments, where the -stones were disjointed, I perceived divers books and papers lie about a -corpse; for it seems, when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his -books with him. With the help of a stick, I raked out several, written in -Hebrew characters, but much impaired. As we returned, we stepped in to -see the Spin-house, a kind of bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd -women are kept in discipline and labor, but all neat. We were shown an -hospital for poor travelers and pilgrims, built by Queen Elizabeth of -England; and another maintained by the city. - - [Footnote 12: Westminster hall used to be so in Term time, and - during the sitting of Parliament, as late as the beginning of the - reign of George III.] - -The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be perfected, will -be one of the most costly and magnificent pieces of architecture in -Europe, especially for the materials and the carvings. In the Doole is -painted, on a very large table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported -by four royal diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who hath set his name -thereon, 1st September, 1638. - -On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presbyterian congregation, -where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be sung, so -that all the congregation might see them without the bidding of a clerk. -I was told, that after such an age no minister was permitted to preach, -but had his maintenance continued during life. - -I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous to converse with the -sectaries that swarmed in this city, out of whose spawn came those almost -innumerable broods in England afterward. It was at a Brownist's house, -where we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my -Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee. Here I also found an -English Carmelite, who was going through Germany with an Irish gentleman. -I now went to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, -for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and poor children, where -they are taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to -housewifery, that men of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, -frequently take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the Rasp-house, -where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; and the rasping of brasil -and logwood for the dyers is very hard labor. To the Dool-house, for -madmen and fools. But none did I so much admire, as an Hospital for their -lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accommodations are very -great, the building answerable; and, indeed, for the like public -charities the provisions are admirable in this country, where, as no idle -vagabonds are suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child -of four or five years old, but they find some employment for it. - -It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse, or Exchange, after -their sermons were ended, to see the Dog-market, which lasts till two in -the afternoon, in this place of convention of merchants from all parts of -the world. The building is not comparable to that of London, built by -that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in one respect exceeding it, -that vessels of considerable burden ride at the very quay contiguous to -it; and indeed it is by extraordinary industry that as well this city, as -generally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs, -cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that nothing is more -frequent than to see a whole navy, belonging to this mercantile people, -riding at anchor before their very doors: and yet their streets even, -straight, and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with lime -trees, as nothing can be more beautiful. - -The next day we were entertained at a kind of tavern, called the -Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper rooms of -the house, were divers pretty waterworks, rising 108 feet from the -ground. Here were many quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, -noises of beasts, and chirping of birds; but what pleased me most was a -large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets, furnished all -with ordinary candles to appearance, out of the wicks spouting out -streams of water, instead of flames. This seemed then and was a rarity, -before the philosophy of compressed air made it intelligible. There was -likewise a cylinder that entertained the company with a variety of -chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of porcelain dishes, suited -to the tones and notes, without cracking any of them. Many other -waterworks were shown. - -The Kaiser's or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample and long street, -appearing like a city in a forest; the lime trees planted just before -each house, and at the margin of that goodly aqueduct so curiously -wharfed with Klincard brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which -nothing can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is built and -gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense charge, and -fitted for the most busy concourse of traffickers and people of commerce -beyond any place, or mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of -entrance into an issue of this town, composed of very magnificent pieces -of architecture, some of the ancient and best manner, as are divers -churches. - -The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular manner and -invention; the chimes of bells are so rarely managed, that being curious -to know whether the motion was from any engine, I went up to that of St. -Nicholas, where I found one who played all sorts of compositions from the -tablature before him, as if he had fingered an organ; for so were the -hammers fastened with wires to several keys put into a frame twenty feet -below the bells, upon which (by the help of a wooden instrument, not much -unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck on the keys -and played to admiration. All this while, through the clattering of the -wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, and noise that his wooden -gloves made, the confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the -musician, or any that stood near him, to hear anything at all; yet, to -those at a distance, and especially in the streets, the harmony and the -time were the most exact and agreeable. - -The south church is richly paved with black and white marble,--the west -is a new fabric; and generally all the churches in Holland are furnished -with organs, lamps, and monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and -impiety of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported them -in other places rather to act like madmen than religious. - -[Sidenote: HAERLEM] - -Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went among the booksellers, and visited the -famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop, to buy some maps, atlases, and other -works of that kind. At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells -and Indian curiosities; and so, toward the end of August, I returned -again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in length, straight as a line, -and of competent breadth for ships to sail by one another. They showed us -a cottage where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her -twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was prohibited to marry in -future; yet it could not be proved that she had ever made away with any -of her husbands, though the suspicion had brought her divers times to -trouble. - -Haerlem is a very delicate town and hath one of the fairest churches of -the Gothic design I had ever seen. There hang in the steeple, which is -very high, two silver bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in -Egypt, by an earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they are rung -out every evening. In the nave hang the goodliest branches of brass for -tapers that I have seen, esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the -workmanship; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not find they made -use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing psalms, -but only for show, and to recreate the people before and after their -devotions, while the burgomasters were walking and conferring about their -affairs. Near the west window hang two models of ships, completely -equipped, in memory of that invention of saws under their keels, with -which they cut through the chain of booms, which barred the port of -Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market, and made some -inquiry about the printing-house, the invention whereof is said to have -been in this town, I returned to Leyden. - -[Sidenote: LEYDEN] - -At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very -steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon, on -his return out of England, as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden -inundations. - -The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies buried the learned -and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without any extraordinary inscription, -who, having left the world a monument of his worth more lasting than -marble, needed nothing more than his own name; which I think is all -engraven on his sepulcher. He left his library to this University. - -28th August, 1641. I went to see the college and schools, which are -nothing extraordinary, and was complimented with a _matricula_ by the -_magnificus_ Professor, who first in Latin demanded of me where my -lodging in the town was, my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I -addicted myself; then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an -oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders of the -University while I stayed, and then delivered me a ticket, by virtue -whereof I was made excise-free; for all which worthy privileges, and the -pains of writing, he accepted of a rix-dollar. - -Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so longed to see, as well -as the no less famous printer, Elzevir's printing-house and shop, -renowned for the politeness of the character and editions of what he has -published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, well stored with -exotic plants, if the catalogue presented to me by the gardener be a -faithful register. - -But, among all the rarities of this place, I was much pleased with a -sight of their anatomy-school, theater, and repository adjoining, which -is well furnished with natural curiosities; skeletons, from the whale and -elephant to the fly and spider; which last is a very delicate piece of -art, to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender an insect) -could be separated from the mucilaginous parts of that minute animal. -Among a great variety of other things, I was shown the knife newly taken -out of a drunken Dutchman's guts, by an incision in his side, after it -had slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The pictures of the -chirurgeon and his patient, both living, were there. - -There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted. - -Returning to my lodging, I was showed the statue, cut in stone, of the -happy monk, whom they report to have been the first inventor of -typography, set over the door; but this is much controverted by others, -who strive for the glory of it, besides John Gutenberg. - -I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew, who had married an -apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions: he told me, among -other things, that the World should never end; that our souls -transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did penance -in the bodies of brutes after death,--and so he interpreted the -banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar: that all the Jews should -rise again, and be led to Jerusalem; that the Romans only were the -occasion of our Savior's death, whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be -a great prophet, but not the Messiah. He showed me several books of their -devotion, which he had translated into English, for the instruction of -his wife; he told me that when the Messiah came, all the ships, barks, -and vessels of Holland should, by the power of certain strange -whirlwinds, be loosed from their anchors, and transported in a moment to -all the desolate ports and havens throughout the world, wherever the -dispersion was, to convey their brethren and tribes to the Holy City; -with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow, but would by -no means handle any money (for something I purchased of him), it being -Saturday; but desired me to leave it in the window, meaning to receive it -on Sunday morning. - -1st September, 1641. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two days after -back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of horseman's armor, which I caused -to be made to fit me. I now rode out of town to see the monument of the -woman, pretended to have been a countess of Holland, reported to have had -as many children at one birth, as there are days in the year. The basins -were hung up in which they were baptized, together with a large -description of the matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in the -church of Lysdun, a desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to see one -of the Prince's Palaces, called the Hoff Van Hounsler's Dyck, a very fair -cloistered and quadrangular building. The gallery is prettily painted -with several huntings, and at one end a gordian knot, with rustical -instruments so artificially represented, as to deceive an accurate eye to -distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of the staircase is -painted with the "Rape of Ganymede," and other pendant figures, the work -of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which I -afterward parted with to my brother George of Wotton, where it now hangs. -To this palace join a fair garden and park, curiously planted with limes. - -8th September, 1641. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delftshaven and -Sedan, where were at that time Colonel Goring's winter quarters. This -town has heretofore been very much talked of for witches. - -10th September, 1641. I took a wagon for Dort, to be present at the -reception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager of France, widow -of Henry the Great, and mother to the French King, Louis XIII., and the -Queen of England, whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the -various fortune of her life. From this city, she designed for Cologne, -conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr Van Bredrod. At this -interview, I saw the Princess of Orange, and the lady her daughter, -afterward married to the House of Brandenburgh. There was little -remarkable in this reception befitting the greatness of her person; but -an universal discontent, which accompanied that unlucky woman wherever -she went. - -12th September, 1641. I went toward Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on the -16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing, with innumerable -hands, and incomparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the -fens and morasses about it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and -the like; in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe. Here -were now sixteen companies and nine troops of horse. They were also -cutting a new river, to pass from the town to a castle not far from it. -Here we split our skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of -the master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little hazard. At our -arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the Governor, where our names were -taken, and our persons examined very strictly. - -17th September, 1641. I was permitted to walk the round and view the -works, and to visit a convent of religious women of the order of St. -Clara (who by the capitulation were allowed to enjoy their monastery and -maintenance undisturbed, at the surrender of the town twelve years -since), where we had a collation and very civil entertainment. They had a -neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleves, their founder, -lies inhumed under a plate of brass. Within the cloister is a garden, and -in the middle of it an overgrown lime tree, out of whose stem, near the -root, issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or bolls, the like -whereof for evenness and height I had not observed. - -The chief church of this city is curiously carved within and without, -furnished with a pair of organs, and a most magnificent font of copper. - -18th September, 1641. I went to see that most impregnable town and fort -of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one Colonel Crombe, the -lieutenant-governor, who would needs make me accept the honor of being -captain of the watch, and to give the word this night. The fortification -is very irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for strength -and situation in the Netherlands. We departed toward Gorcum. Here Sir -Kenelm Digby, traveling toward Cologne, met us. - -The next morning, the 19th, we arrived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, -where they catch innumerable quantities of fowl. - -[Sidenote: ROTTERDAM] - -22d September, 1641. I went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass which I -expected from Brussels, securing me through Brabant and Flanders, -designing to go into England through those countries. The Cardinal -Infante, brother to the King of Spain, was then governor. By this pass, -having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon the 24th of -September I departed through Dort; but met with very bad tempestuous -weather, being several times driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor -off Keele, other vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and -26th we made other essays; but were again repulsed to the harbor, where -lay sixty vessels waiting to sail. But, on the 27th, we, impatient of the -time and inhospitableness of the place, sailed again with a contrary and -impetuous wind and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy; for we had much -ado to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking desperately on -our vessel: we were driven into Williamstadt, a place garrisoned by the -English, where the governor had a fair house. The works, and especially -the counterscarp, are curiously hedged with quick, and planted with a -stately row of limes on the rampart. The church is of a round structure, -with a cupola, and the town belongs entirely to the Prince of Orange, as -does that of Breda, and some other places. - -28th September, 1641. Failing of an appointment, I was constrained to -return to Dort for a bill of exchange; but it was the 1st of October ere -I could get back. At Keele, I numbered 141 vessels, who durst not yet -venture out; but, animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small -encounter of weather, we arrived by four that evening at Steenbergen. In -the passage we sailed over a sea called the Plaats, an exceeding -dangerous water, by reason of two contrary tides which meet there very -impetuously. Here, because of the many shelves, we were forced to tide it -along the Channel; but, ere we could gain the place, the ebb was so far -spent, that we were compelled to foot it at least two long miles, through -a most pelting shower of rain. - -2d October, 1641. With a gentleman of the Rhyngraves, I went in a cart, -or tumbrel (for it was no better; no other accommodation could be -procured), of two wheels and one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting by the -way divers parties of his Highness's army now retiring toward their -winter quarters; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands along the harbor. -The fort was heretofore built by the English. - -The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of horse -which was offered me. The tide being against us, we landed short of the -fort on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could -gain the dyke, which, being five or six miles from Lillo, we were forced -to walk on foot very wet and discomposed; and then entering a boat we -passed the ferry, and came to the castle. Being taken before the -Governor, he demanded my pass, to which he set his hand, and asked two -rix-dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbitant in a -soldier of his quality. I told him that I had already purchased my pass -of the commissaries at Rotterdam; at which, in a great fury, snatching -the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, and -bade me try whether I could get to Antwerp without his permission: but I -had no sooner given him the dollars, then he returned the passport -surlily enough, and made me pay fourteen Dutch shillings to the cantone, -or searcher, for my contempt, which I was glad to do for fear of further -trouble, should he have discovered my Spanish pass, in which the States -were therein treated by the name of rebels. Besides all these exactions, -I gave the commissary six shillings, to the soldiers something, and, ere -perfectly clear of this frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war, -who lay blocking up the river between Lillo and the opposite sconce -called Lifkinshoeck. - -[Sidenote: ANTWERP] - -4th October, 1641. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of one of -which, St. Mary's port, came a Don on board us, to whom I showed my -Spanish pass, which he signed, and civilly dismissed us. Hence, sailing -by another man-of-war, to which we lowered our topsails, we at length -arrived at Antwerp. - -The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little time; -but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner, our conductor, we visited divers -churches, colleges, and monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most -sumptuous and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and within, wholly -incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished into divers representations of -histories, landscapes, and flowers. On the high altar is placed the -statue of the Blessed Virgin and our Savior in white marble, with a boss -in the girdle set with very fair and rich sapphires, and divers other -stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of architecture: the -pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and -rare pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive tables and -relics. Hence, to the Vroł Kirk, or Nōtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very -venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, -which I ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent; -which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly bright, and -darted his rays without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection -to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water -about it, that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of -some such substance as this earthly globe: perceiving all the subjacent -country, at so small an horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as -I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other large water -within our view, appeared of a more dark and uniform color; resembling -those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, according to Hevelius, -and as they appear in our late telescopes. I numbered in this church -thirty privileged altars, that of St. Sebastian adorned with a painting -of his martyrdom. - -We went to see the Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by one -who, upon divers great wagers, passed to and fro between that city and -Antwerp, on foot, by which he procured large sums of money, which he -bestowed on this pious structure.[13] Hence, to St. Mary's Chapel, where -I had some conference with two English Jesuits, confessors to Colonel -Jaye's regiment. These fathers conducted us to the Cloister of Nuns, -where we heard a Dutch sermon upon the exposure of the Host. The -Senate-house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent building. - - [Footnote 13: This notice, slipped by accident into the entries - which refer to Antwerp, belongs to those of Bruges.] - -5th October, 1641. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of -their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided into four -classes, with several inscriptions over each: as, first, _Ad majorem Dei -gloriam_; over the second, _Princeps diligentię_; the third, _Imperator -Byzantiorum_; over the fourth and uppermost, _Imperator Romanorum_. Under -these, the scholars and pupils and their places, or forms with titles and -priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings -above were exceedingly neat. They have a prison for the offenders and -less diligent; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves in, is an -aviary, and a yard, where eagles, vultures, foxes, monkeys, and other -animals are kept, to divert the boys withal at their hours of remission. -To this school join the music and mathematical schools, and lastly a -pretty, neat chapel. The great street is built after the Italian mode, in -the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix of white and black -marble, greater than the life. This is a very fair and noble street, -clean, well paved, and sweet to admiration. - -The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a stately -palace, adorned with more than 300 windows. From hence, walking into the -Gun-garden, I was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is permitted -to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern fortification, -accommodated with lodgments for the soldiers and magazines. The graffs, -ramparts, and platforms are stupendous. Returning by the shop of -Plantine, I bought some books, for the namesake only of that famous -printer. - -But there was nothing about this city which more ravished me than those -delicious shades and walks of stately trees, which render the fortified -works of the town one of the sweetest places in Europe; nor did I ever -observe a more quiet, clean, elegantly built and civil place, than this -magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. In the evening, I was invited to -Signor Duerte's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, -whose palace I found to be furnished like a prince's. His three daughters -entertained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental, which was -finished with a handsome collation. I took leave of the ladies and of -sweet Antwerp, as late as it was, embarking for Brussels on the Scheldt -in a vessel, which delivered us to a second boat (in another river) drawn -or towed by horses. In this passage, we frequently changed our barge, by -reason of the bridges thwarting our course. Here I observed numerous -families inhabiting their vessels and floating dwellings, so built and -divided by cabins, as few houses on land enjoyed better accommodation; -stored with all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlor, and -kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing. The rivers on which -they are drawn are very clear and still waters, and pass through a most -pleasant country on both the banks. We had in our boat a very good -ordinary, and excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for twenty -English miles. What I much admired was, near the midway, another -artificial river, which intersects this at right angles, but on an -eminence of ground, and is carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above -the other as that the waters neither mingle, nor hinder one another's -passage. - -We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the passengers went on -shore to wash at a fountain issuing out of a pillar, and then came -aboard again. On the margin of this long tract are abundance of shrines -and images, defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone -wherein they are placed. - -[Sidenote: BRUSSELS] - -7th October, 1641. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the morning. The -Stadt-house, near the market place, is, for the carving in freestone, a -most laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The -flesh-shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small -engines, by which a girl, or boy, was able to draw up, or let down, great -bridges, which in divers parts of this city crossed the channel for the -benefit of passengers. The walls of this town are very entire, and full -of towers at competent distances. The cathedral is built upon a very high -and exceeding steep ascent, to which we mounted by fair steps of stone. -Hence I walked to a convent of English Nuns, with whom I sat discoursing -most part of the afternoon. - -8th October, 1641. Being the morning I came away, I went to see the -Prince's Court, an ancient, confused building, not much unlike the Hofft, -at the Hague: there is here likewise a very large hall, where they vend -all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed -rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or catafalque, of -the late Archduchess, the wise and pious Clara Eugenia. Out of this we -were conducted to the lodgings, tapestried with incomparable arras, and -adorned with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breugel, -Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late actions in the -Netherlands. - -By an accident we could not see the library. There is a fair terrace -which looks to the vineyard, in which, on pedestals, are fixed the -statues of all the Spanish kings of the house of Austria. The opposite -walls are painted by Rubens, being an history of the late tumults in -Belgia: in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of gates -upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and in a menacing posture; -which, with that other of the Infanta taking leave of Don Philip IV., is -a most incomparable table. - -From hence, we walked into the park, which for being entirely within the -walls of the city is particularly remarkable: nor is it less pleasant -than if in the most solitary recesses; so naturally is it furnished with -whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. Here is a -stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, rocks, -grots; one whereof is composed of the extravagant roots of trees, -cunningly built and hung together with wires. In this park are both -fallow and red deer. - -From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of that into a most -sweet and delicious garden, where was another grot of more neat and -costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us with -artificial music; but the hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which -the fountaineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, exceedingly -pleased and surprised me; for thus, with a pervious wall, or rather a -palisade hedge of water, was the whole parterre environed. - -There is likewise a fair aviary; and in the court next it are kept divers -sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl, as eagles, cranes, storks, -bustards, pheasants of several kinds, and a duck having four wings. In -another division of the same close are rabbits of an almost perfect -yellow color. - -There was no Court now in the palace; the Infante Cardinal, who was the -Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one in deep -mourning. - -At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's agent, Sir Henry de -Vic, who very courteously received me, and accommodated me with a coach -and six horses, which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to -meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who had requested me -when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went not thither myself. - -Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full of gallant -persons (for in this small city, the acquaintance being universal, ladies -and gentlemen, I perceived had great diversions, and frequent meetings), -I hastened toward Ghent. On the way, I met with divers little wagons, -prettily contrived, and full of peddling merchandise, drawn by mastiff -dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach horses; in some four, in -others six, as in Brussels itself I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I -remember, four dogs draw five lusty children in a chariot: the master -commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streets. -After passing through Ouse, by six in the evening, I arrived at Ghent. -This is a city of so great a circumference, that it is reported to be -seven leagues round; but there is not half of it now built, much of it -remaining in fields and desolate pastures even within the walls, which -have strong gates toward the west, and two fair churches. - -Here I beheld the palace wherein John of Gaunt and Charles V. were born; -whose statue[14] stands in the market-place, upon a high pillar, with his -sword drawn, to which (as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were -wont to repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about their -necks, in token of submission and penance for an old rebellion of theirs; -but now the hemp is changed into a blue ribbon. Here is planted the -basilisco, or great gun, so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt -meeting in this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands, which are -united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I supped -with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest. - - [Footnote 14: That of Charles V.] - -8th October, 1641. I passed by a boat to Bruges, taking in at a redoubt a -convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the other side of the river, being -Contribution-land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the -bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis Spinola, and -is in my judgment a wonderful piece of labor, and a worthy public work, -being in some places forced through the main rock, to an incredible -depth, for thirty miles. At the end of each mile is built a small -redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, -from whence we received many volleys of shot, in compliment to my Lord -Marshal, who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At five that -evening, we were met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey -my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained that night. - -The morning after we went to see the Stadt-house and adjoining aqueduct, -the church, and market-place, where we saw cheeses and butter piled up in -heaps; also the fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large. - -The 9th, we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial river. Here, -with leave of the captain of the watch, I was carried to survey the -river and harbor, with fortifications on one side thereof: the east and -south are mud and earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately -stood a memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks, and three -days. I went to see the church of St. Peter, and the cloisters of the -Franciscans. - -10th October, 1641. I went by wagon, accompanied with a jovial -commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On -our arrival, we first viewed the court of guards, the works, the -townhouse, and the new church; the latter is very beautiful within; and -another, wherein they showed us an excellent piece of "Our Savior's -Bearing the Cross." The harbor, in two channels, coming up to the town, -was choked with a multitude of prizes. - -From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles toward the packet -boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns, which embarked us for England -about three in the afternoon. - -[Sidenote: DOVER] - -At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace anchored saluted my -Lord Marshal with twelve great guns, which we answered with three. Not -having the wind favorable, we anchored that night before Calais. About -midnight, we weighed; and, at four in the morning, though not far from -Dover, we could not make the pier till four that afternoon, the wind -proving contrary and driving us westward: but at last we got on shore, -October the 12th. - -From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. Here I visited the -cathedral, then in great splendor; those famous windows being entire, -since demolished by the fanatics. The next morning by Sittingbourne, I -came to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light-horseman (as -they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From -hence, after we had a little refreshed ourselves at the College (for by -reason of contagion then in London we balked the inns), we came to -London, landing at Arundel stairs. Here I took leave of his Lordship, and -retired to my lodgings in the Middle Temple, being about two in the -morning, the 14th of October. - -16th October, 1641. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of -that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the -23d), I was one and twenty years of age. - -7th November, 1641. After receiving the Sacrament at Wotton church, I -visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. - -23d November, 1641. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his -Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of Scotland, and a -Peace proclaimed, with great acclamations and joy of the giddy people. - -15th December, 1641. I was elected one of the Comptrollers of the Middle -Temple revellers, as the fashion of the young students and gentlemen was, -the Christmas being kept this year with great solemnity; but, being -desirous to pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of -office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton. - -10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton, of Ditton. - -19th January, 1642. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th of March, -studying a little, but dancing and fooling more. - -3d October, 1642. To Chichester, and hence the next day to see the siege -of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody difference between the King and -Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many years -after. It was on the day of its being rendered to Sir William Waller; -which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Colonel Goring, the -governor, now embarking for France. This day was fought that signal -battle at Edgehill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester, where I -visited the castle, school, church, and King Arthur's Round Table; but -especially the church, and its Saxon kings' monuments, which I esteemed a -worthy antiquity. - -The 12th of November was the battle of Brentford, surprisingly fought; -and to the great consternation of the City, had his Majesty (as it was -believed he would) pursued his advantage. I came in with my horse and -arms just at the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than the -15th, by reason of the army marching to Gloucester; which would have left -both me and my brothers exposed to ruin, without any advantage to his -Majesty. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th December, 1642. I went from Wotton to London, to see the so much -celebrated line of communication, and on the 10th returned to Wotton, -nobody knowing of my having been in his Majesty's army. - -10th March, 1643. I went to Hartingford-berry to visit my cousin, -Keightly. - -11th March, 1643. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at -Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the house (inferior -to few then in England for its architecture), were the garden and -vineyard, rarely well watered and planted. They also showed us the -picture of Secretary Cecil, in Mosaic work, very well done by some -Italian hand. - -I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the night before, namely, -a shining cloud in the air, in shape resembling a sword, the point -reaching to the north; it was as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky -being very serene. It began about eleven at night, and vanished not till -above one, being seen by all the south of England. I made many journeys -to and from London. - -15th April, 1643. To Hatfield, and near the town of Hertford I went to -see Sir J. Harrison's house new built. Returning to London, I called to -see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theobald's, since demolished by -the rebels. - -2d May, 1643. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw the furious and -zealous people demolish that stately Cross in Cheapside. - -On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the confusion that -threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in some quiet, if it might be, -in a time of so great jealousy, I built by my brother's permission, a -study, made a fish-pond, an island, and some other solitudes and -retirements at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving them to -those waterworks and gardens which afterward succeeded them, and became -at that time the most famous of England. - -12th July, 1643. I sent my black menage horse and furniture with a friend -to his Majesty, then at Oxford. - -23d July, 1643. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself; but, -finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and -which had been a great cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between -Wotton and London, October the 2d, I obtained a license of his Majesty, -dated at Oxford and signed by the King, to travel again. - -6th November, 1643. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph -Whitfield's, at Blechingley (whither both my brothers had conducted me), -I arrived at London on the 7th, and two days after took boat at the -Tower-wharf, which carried me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without -danger, I being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm: but -it pleased God that we got in before the peril was considerable. From -thence, I went by post to Dover, accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a -very dear friend of mine. - -11th November, 1643. Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather -was snowy and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went -on shore, mistaking the tide, our shallop struck on the sands, with no -little danger; but at length we got off. - -Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place, in the old -castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The haven consists of a long -bank of sand, lying opposite to it. The market place and the church are -remarkable things, besides those relics of our former dominion there. I -remember there were engraven in stone, upon the front of an ancient -dwelling which was showed us, these words in English--"God save the -King," together with the name of the architect and date. The walls of the -town are substantial; but the situation toward the land is not pleasant, -by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it. - -12th November, 1643. After dinner we took horse with the Messagere, -hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; but there fell so great a -snow, accompanied with hail, rain, and sudden darkness, that we had much -ado to gain the next village; and in this passage, being to cross a -valley by a causeway, and a bridge built over a small river, the rain -that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for near a quarter of a -mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perishing. We -none of us went to bed; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in -the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morning, -between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early, we arrived at -Boulogne. - -This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high rock, or downs; -the other, called the lower town, is yet with a great declivity toward -the sea; both of them defended by a strong castle, which stands on a -notable eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet but an -inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII., in the siege of this place is said to -have used those great leathern guns which I have since beheld in the -Tower of London, inscribed, "_Non Marte opus est cui non deficit -Mercurius_"; if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert -doubts. - -The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish] surprising us, we -came to Montreuil, built on the summit of a most conspicuous hill, -environed with fair and ample meadows; but all the suburbs had been from -time to time ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads. -This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches; the walls about -the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. The church is more -glorious without than within; the market place large; but the inhabitants -are miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville, having passed all -this way in continual expectation of the volunteers, as they call them. -This town affords a good aspect toward the hill from whence we descended: -nor does it deceive us; for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant -and useful streams passing through it, the main river being the Somme, -which discharges itself into the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the -town. The principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic -architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted for defense and -ornament. In the morning, they brought us choice of guns and pistols to -sell at reasonable rates, and neatly made, being here a merchandise of -great account, the town abounding in gunsmiths. - -[Sidenote: ST. DENIS] - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good note, and having the -first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to -Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great -city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathedral, and the -dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed as ours at Westminster -Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in Europe. The church -was built by King Dagobert,[15] but since much enlarged, being now 390 -feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without comprehending the -cover: it has also a very high shaft of stone, and the gates are of -brass. Here, while the monks conducted us, we were showed the ancient and -modern sepulchers of their kings, beginning with the founder to Louis his -son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and father of Charlemagne. These -lie in the choir, and without it are many more: among the rest that of -Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France; in the chapel of Charles V., -all his posterity; and near him the magnificent sepulcher of Francis I., -with his children, wars, victories, and triumphs engraven in marble. In -the nave of the church lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII., -Henry II., a noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are bodies -of several Saints; below, under a state of black velvet, the late Louis -XIII., father of this present monarch. Every one of the ten chapels, or -oratories, had some Saints in them; among the rest, one of the Holy -Innocents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in which are -crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of -gold three feet high, set with sapphires, rubies, and great oriental -pearls. Another given by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in -the middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value. Among the still -more valuable relics are, a nail from our Savior's Cross, in a box of -gold full of precious stones; a crucifix of the true wood of the Cross, -carved by Pope Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold; a -box in which is some of the Virgin's hair; some of the linen in which our -blessed Savior was wrapped at his nativity; in a huge reliquary, modeled -like a church, some of our Savior's blood, hair, clothes, linen with -which he wiped the Apostles' feet; with many other equally authentic -toys, which the friar who conducted us would have us believe were -authentic relics. Among the treasures is the crown of Charlemagne, his -seven-foot high scepter and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal -mantle, beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of -gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious stones, among which -is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carats (under -which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Savior's crown), his -sword, seal, and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his -scepter, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his son Louis. In -the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby. Divers -books covered with solid plates of gold, and studded with precious -stones. Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed for its -bigness, color, and embossed carving, the best now to be seen: by a -special favor I was permitted to take the measure and dimensions of it; -the story is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus; a very holy thing -truly, and fit for a cloister! It is really antique, and the noblest -jewel there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge urn of -porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx, the largest I had ever -seen of that stone; two of crystal; a morsel of one of the waterpots in -which our Savior did his first miracle; the effigies of the Queen of -Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon -sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians: that of the queen of Saba[16] -has a Moorish face; those of Julius and Nero on agates are rarely colored -and cut. A cup in which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a -great amethyst. There lay in a window a mirror of a kind of stone said to -have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charlemagne's chessmen, full of Arabic -characters. In the press next the door, the brass lantern full of -crystals, said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our -blessed Savior. A fair unicorn's horn, sent by a king of Persia, about -seven feet long. In another press (over which stands the picture in oil -of their Orleans Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French -kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes; with a -world of other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous friar, we took -horse for Paris, where we arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way -were fair crosses of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong's -end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his head after -martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We -lay at Paris at the Ville de Venice; where, after I had something -refreshed, I went to visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident -with the French king. - - [Footnote 15: A. D. 630.] - - [Footnote 16: Or Sheba.] - -5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary: -I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsieur -de Bassompičre, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, -and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the -ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais -Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French king, and the -queen Regent his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence, -I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took my leave. - -24th December, 1643. I went with some company to see some remarkable -places without the city: as the Isle, and how it is encompassed by the -Rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is divided into three parts, whereof -the town is greatest. The city lies between it and the University in form -of an island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun -by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV. his successor. It is all of -hewn freestone found under the streets, but more plentifully at -Montmartre, and consists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the -point of an island, on which are built handsome artificers' houses. There -is one large passage for coaches, and two for foot passengers three or -four feet higher, and of convenient breadth for eight or ten to go -abreast. On the middle of this stately bridge, on one side, stands the -famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural -proportion by much; and, on the four faces of a stately pedestal (which -is composed of various sorts of polished marbles and rich moldings), -inscriptions of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in -brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of the great John di -Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the -Second, uncle and cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of King Henry, -whose statue it represents. The place where it is erected is inclosed -with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always -mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a -rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du -Palais, and Nōtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on -the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the -woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very rare -dial of several motions, with a chime, etc. The water is conveyed by huge -wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence -of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the -bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there -are, as that of Nōtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, -with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. -Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of -wood, having likewise a water house in the midst of it, and a statue of -Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior -to the Samaritan. - -The University lies southwest on higher ground, contiguous to, but the -lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no less than sixty-five colleges; but -they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The -booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more -hereafter) are very regular. - -The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. -Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and -where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly -Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are -built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most gallant -cities in the world; large in circuit, of a round form, very populous, -but situated in a bottom, environed with gentle declivities, rendering -some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled -with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot -square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London. - -On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nōtre Dame, erected by -Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists -of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in -the church round about the choir, without comprehending the chapels, -being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The choir is inclosed with -stonework graven with the sacred history, and contains forty-five chapels -chancelled with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in -relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to the -founder, Philip; and above them are two high square towers, and another -of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the -church forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps, having -twelve galleries from one to the other. They greatly reverence the -crucifix over the screen of the choir, with an image of the Blessed -Virgin. There are some good modern paintings hanging on the pillars. The -most conspicuous statute is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher; -with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects and rocks, about this -gigantic piece; being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulk than -any other perfection. This is the prime church of France for dignity, -having archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good store, -to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the archbishop. The young -king was there with a great and martial guard, who entered the nave of -the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was -entertained with the church music; and so I left him. - -4th January, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr. J. Wall, an Irish -gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain, and afterward a reader in St. -Isodore's chair, at Rome; but was, I know not how, getting away, and -pretending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as -he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. It is certain he was an -excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could pass -him. He would needs persuade me to go with him this morning to the -Jesuits' College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers -in their Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them showed us that -noble fabric, which for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of marble, the -pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatorium, etc., but -above all, for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to be -one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even -some of the greatest now at Rome itself. But this not being what our -friar sought, he led us into the adjoining convent, where, having shown -us the library, they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity, -which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and to that -indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, -they being put beside all patience. The next day, we went into the -University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious, -well-built quadrangle, having a very noble library. - -Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one Robert de -Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restoration which the late -Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent -modern buildings; the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far -superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the -church, are very magnificent. - -We entered into some of the schools, and in that of divinity we found a -grave Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as -he dictates; and this they call a Course. After we had sat a little, our -cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the doctor; -at which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in -Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell -into such a fit of laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a -while: but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and made his -apology in so good a style, that their derision was turned to admiration; -and beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with universal -applause they all rose up, and did him great honors, waiting on us to the -very street and our coach, and testifying great satisfaction. - -2d February, 1644. I heard the news of my nephew George's birth, which -was on January 15th, English style, 1644. - -3d February, 1644. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the -buildings is very noble; but the galleries where they sell their petty -merchandise nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place -where they walk below, being only a low vault. - -The Palaise, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip -the Fair, noble and spacious. The great Hall annexed to it, is arched -with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round which, and at -the sides, are shops of all kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is -full of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here (as ours at -Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which mass is said -daily. Within are several chambers, courts, treasuries, etc. Above that -is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the chamber of St. -Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament sits, richly gilt -on embossed carvings and frets, and exceedingly beautified. - -Within the place where they sell their wares, is another narrower -gallery, full of shops and toys, etc., which looks down into the -prison-yard. Descending by a large pair of stairs, we passed by Sainte -Chapelle, which is a church built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic -manner: it stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by -pillars at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extraordinary in -the artist. This chapel is most famous for its relics, having as they -pretend, almost the entire crown of thorns: the agate patine, rarely -sculptured, judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was now a -very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is very spacious, capable -of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shops, especially -engravers', goldsmiths', and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and -portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, -whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by goldsmiths. -Within the court are private dwellings. The front, looking on the great -bridge, is possessed by mountebanks, operators, and puppet-players. On -the other part, is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, -especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange trees, choice shrubs. Here is a -shop called NOAH'S ARK, where are sold all curiosities, natural or -artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, -ivory, porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand -exotic extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dauphine, an arch -of excellent workmanship; the street bearing the same name, is ample and -straight. - -4th February, 1644. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are a noble -church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templar, now -converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large -and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable -palaces. - -The Church of St. Genevičve is a place of great devotion, dedicated to -another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the -English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands -on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons -regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle of stately -palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area, stands on a -noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in -imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as -that on the Pont Neuf. - -The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honoré, is an excellent -foundation; but above all is the Hōtel Dieu for men and women, near Nōtre -Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité -gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the -sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by -noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and -fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great success, -yearly in May. The two Chātelets (supposed to have been built by Julius -Cęsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong -prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent. - -8th February, 1644. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine -Royale, which is an inclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of -ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, -having in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and -is richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre is a -fair fountain. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, -and other accommodations for the President, who is always one of the -king's chief physicians. - -From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and to some distance -from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which is the -fortress, tower, and magazine of this great city. It is very spacious -within, and there the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with -fair gardens and walks. - -The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle, with -magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting the chapel. -It is the chief prison for persons of quality. About it there is a park -walled in, full of deer; and in one part there is a grove of goodly pine -trees. - -The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its several -courts and pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Henry IV., and -finished by his son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The -cornices, moldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several -colored marbles, have been of great expense. - -We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble, -richly fretted and painted _ą fresco_. The front looking to the river, -though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which -a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it. - -In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the winding geometrical -stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble a piece of -architecture as any in Europe of the kind. To this is a _corps de logis_, -worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings, through a garden in -which is an ample fountain, was the king's printing house, and that -famous letter so much esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic -authors, poets, and others. - -We returned through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where hung -the pictures of all the kings and queens and prime nobility of France. - -Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large room, called the -_Salle des Antiques_, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destined for statues -only, among which stands that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said -to be the same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. Besides -these colossean figures of marble, I must not forget the huge globe -suspended by chains. The pavings, inlayings, and incrustations of this -Hall, are very rich. - -In another more private garden toward the Queen's apartment is a walk, or -cloister, under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a great -breadth; it looks toward the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, -stately cypresses, etc. On the river are seen a prodigious number of -barges and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, and -other commodities, which this vast city daily consumes. Under the long -gallery we have described, dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and -architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom have -stipends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur Saracin we -entered, who was then molding for an image of a Madonna to be cast in -gold of a great size to be sent by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an -offering for the birth of the Dauphin, now the young King. - -I finished this day with a walk in the great garden of the Tuileries, -rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by groves, plantations -of tall trees, especially that in the middle, being of elms, the other of -mulberries; and that labyrinth of cypresses; not omitting the noble -hedges of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; but, above -all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so distinctly; and, as it -is never without some fair nymph singing to its grateful returns; -standing at one of the focuses, which is under a tree or little cabinet -of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds; at another, as if -it was underground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we were let -into another, which being kept with all imaginary accurateness as to the -orangery, precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a -terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think -could be maintained in the whole city, going, late as it was in the year, -toward the course, which is a place adjoining, of near an English mile -long, planted with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the -middle. This course is walled about, near breast high, with squared -freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and -statues about it, built by Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants -and ladies of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with us in -Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing a hundred coaches to -turn commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for five or six -coaches abreast. - -Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in which are kept wild -beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, -etc. - -[Sidenote: ST. CLOUD] - -27th February, 1644. Accompanied with some English gentlemen, we took -horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately country house of the King, -some five leagues from Paris. By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud, -where, on an eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a -garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and -furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are very fair; -the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water -near forty feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and -basins, and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed than the -cascade falling from the great steps into the lowest and longest walk -from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on -the summit of the hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to -wet the spectators; this is covered with a fair cupola, the walls painted -with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are -antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to -enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious -contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer -walls only painted _ą fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues -of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, -mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under -shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, -with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well painted; and thence -an excellent prospect toward Paris, the meadows, and river. - -At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the great persons in -princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I -have done. Indeed, the entertainment is very splendid, and not -unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat, -and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revelings, as -being out of all noise and observance. - -[Sidenote: ST. GERMAINS] - -From hence, about a league further, we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's -villa, at Ruell. The house is small, but fairly built, in form of a -castle, moated round. The offices are toward the road, and over against -it are large vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the -greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I doubt whether -Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities of pleasure. The garden -nearest the pavilion is a parterre, having in the midst divers noble -brass statues, perpetually spouting water into an ample basin, with other -figures of the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast -inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing -vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof one is of perennial -greens), and walks of vast length, so accurately kept and cultivated, -that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a -square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the -fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move -round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the -Citroničre, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the -end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large -as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in -painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The sky and hills, -which seem to be between the arches, are so natural, that swallows and -other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the -wall. I was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the further -part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial cascade, which -rolls down a very steep declivity, and over the marble steps and basins, -with an astonishing noise and fury; each basin hath a jetto in it, -flowing like sheets of transparent glass, especially that which rises -over the great shell of lead, from whence it glides silently down a -channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk, terminating in a -grotto. Here are also fountains that cast water to a great height, and -large ponds, two of which have islands for harbor of fowls, of which -there is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them built of -vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, grown over with moss, ivy, -etc., shaded at a competent distance with tall trees: in this rupellary -nidary do the fowl lay eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare -grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild fancies: in -the middle stands a marble table, on which a fountain plays in divers -forms of glasses, cups, crosses, fans, crowns, etc. Then the fountaineer -represented a shower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below. -At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a stream of water -from their musket barrels. Before this grotto is a long pool into which -ran divers spouts of water from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this -paradise made us late at St. Germains. - -The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called the Sage; but -Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it complete; speaking as to the -style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too great a mixture -of the Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in the -old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old foundation, and having -a moat about it. It has yet some spacious and handsome rooms of state, -and a chapel neatly painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided -from this by a court, of a lower, but more modern design, built by Henry -IV. To this belong six terraces, built of brick and stone, descending in -cascades toward the river, cut out of the natural hill, having under them -goodly vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots and -rocks, where are represented several objects in the manner of scenes and -other motions, by force of water, shown by the light of torches only; -among these, is Orpheus with his music; and the animals, which dance -after his harp; in the second, is the King and Dolphin;[17] in the third, -is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot drawn by sea horses; in the -fourth, the story of Perseus and Andromeda; mills; hermitages; men -fishing; birds chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry grot -to refresh in; all having a fine prospect toward the river, and the -goodly country about it, especially the forest. At the bottom, is a -parterre; the upper terrace nearly half a mile in length, with double -declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost. - - [Footnote 17: Dauphin.] - -In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms, well painted, and -leading into a very noble garden and park, where is a pall-mall, in the -midst of which, on one of the sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, -though small, yet of a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park -you go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with deer, wild -boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court, and Cavallerizzo, -for the menaged horses, are also observable. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by -Francis I., and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he -would not go from Madrid (in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from -whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and -walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes, well situated, with a -fair chapel and library. - -1st March, 1644. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue -de Seine, which is well built. Toward his study and bedchamber joins a -little garden, which, though very narrow, by the addition of a -well-painted perspective, is to appearance greatly enlarged; to this -there is another part, supported by arches in which runs a stream of -water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for -some miles, by being artificially continued in the painting, when it -sinks down at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceit. At the end of this -garden is a little theater, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and -the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women painted on light -boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act -as if they were speaking, by guiding them, and reciting words in -different tones, as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, -where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining divers -sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper. - -In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting of Poussin, being -a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of the Virgin, by -Paulo Veronese; another Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by -Cigali; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said to -be of Michael Angelo; the Rape of Proserpine, with a very large landscape -of Correggio. In the next room are some paintings of Primaticcio, -especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well -painted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the Cardinal de -Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely colored. In the cabinet are divers pieces -of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of Paulo Brill, the skies a little too -blue. A Madonna of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of -Mantegna; three women of Jeronimo; one of Stenwick; a Madonna after -Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count esteems it: two -small pieces of Paulo Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and -St. Catherine; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King; six -more of old Bassano; two excellent drawings of Albert; a Magdalen of -Leonardo da Vinci; four of Paulo; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given -him also by our King; the _Ecce Homo_, shut up in a frame of velvet, for -the life and accurate finishing exceeding all description. Some curious -agates, and a chaplet of admirable invention, the intaglios being all on -fruit stones. The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs make -his lady go out of her dressing room, that he might show us the -curiosities and pictures in it. - -We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of the greatest -virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, agates, medals, and -flowers, especially tulips and anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings -was a Sebastian, of Titian. - -From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who showed us many rare drawings, a -Rape of Helen in black chalk; many excellent things of Sneiders, all -naked; some of Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; some -things of Parmensis, and other masters. - -The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur de Hausse, President -of the Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French King, we -were very civilly received, and showed his library. Among his paintings -were a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony, after the first -manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna of Palma. - -Sunday, the 6th of March, I went to Charenton, two leagues from Paris, to -hear and see the manner of the French Protestant Church service. The -place of meeting they call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, -built of freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the Tables of -the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The pulpit stands at the upper end -in the middle, having an inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders -and persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit; the rest of the -congregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as in our -churches, to their great disgrace, as nothing so orderly, as here the -stools and other cumber are removed when the assembly rises. I was -greatly pleased with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all -learn perfectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as their -catechism. - -In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the Marne, where that -renowned echo returns the voice of a good singer nine or ten times. - -7th March, 1644. I set forward with some company toward Fontainebleau, a -sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours at Hampton Court, about -fourteen leagues from the city. By the way, we pass through a forest so -prodigiously encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped -one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is nowhere -to be found more horrid and solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves, -boars, and not long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed among them, which -had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy -precipices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over, -and menacing ruin, is built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues -frequently lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well appointed -with our carabines); but we arrived safe in the evening at the village, -where we lay at the Horne, going early next morning to the Palace. - -This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hampton Court, but -Francis I. began much to beautify it; most of all Henry IV. (and not a -little) the late King. It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and -galleries; in the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are -painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV. That of Francis I., -called the grand Gallery, has all the King's palaces painted in it; above -these, in sixty pieces of excellent work in fresco, is the History of -Ulysses, from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III., esteemed -the most renowned in Europe for the design. The Cabinet is full of -excellent pictures, especially a Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the -Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally, -representing the victories of Charles VII. over our countrymen. In the -Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horseback, of -white marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Clementia and Pax, nobly -done. On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs, and a -half circular court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a chapel -built by Louis XIII., all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble -through the inside. - -Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has a cupola in the -middle of it, great trees and bushes, it being full of birds who drank at -two fountains. There is also a fair tennis court, and noble stables; but -the beauty of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains stand -divers antiquities and statues, especially a Mercury. In the Queen's -Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numerous other brass statues. - -The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the center a -fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brass, with the Wolf over -Romulus and Remus. At each corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the -garden of the piscina, is a Hercules of white marble; next, is that of -the pines, and without that a canal of an English mile in length, at the -end of which rise three jettos in the form of a fleur-de-lis, of a great -height; on the margin are excellent walks planted with trees. The carps -come familiarly to hand (to be fed). Hence they brought us to a spring, -which they say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of -beautifying this place, both with the palace and gardens. The white and -terrific rocks at some distance in the forest, yield one of the most -august and stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this place is -very large, and the town full of noblemen's houses. - -Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was keeper of the -pictures and rarities, to see his own collection. We were led through a -gallery of old Rosso's work, at the end of which, in another cabinet, -were three Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In the -Academy where the painter himself wrought, was a St. Michael of Raphael, -very rare; St. John Baptist of Leonardo, and a Woman's head; a Queen of -Sicily, and St. Margaret of Raphael; two more Madonnas, whereof one very -large, by the same hand; some more of del Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino -del Vaga; the Rape of Proserpine, very good; and a great number of -drawings. - -Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited a house called -_Maison Rouge_, having an excellent prospect, grot, and fountains, one -whereof rises fifty feet, and resembles the noise of a tempest, battle of -guns, etc., at its issue. - -Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a great virtuoso; -there are many good paintings in it; but nothing so observable as his -gardens, fountains, fish-pools, especially that in a triangular form, the -water cast out by a multitude of heads about it; there is a noble -cascade and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a marble table -is a fountain of serpents twisting about a globe. - -We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege by Henry IV. -Here we slept, and returned next morning to Paris. - -18th March, 1644. I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridgeshire Knight, a -journey into Normandy. The first day, we passed by Gaillon, the -Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, but we -did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This town is built -in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oise, and is well -refreshed with fountains. - -This is the first town in Normandy, and the furthest that the vineyards -extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of plains, wood, -and inclosures, with some towns toward the sea, very like England. - -[Sidenote: ROUEN] - -We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next day, descending a -very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after riding five leagues down St. -Catherine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of -that chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with wolves that a -shepherd whom we met, told us one of his companions was strangled by one -of them the day before, and that in the midst of his flock. The fields -are mostly planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It is -plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in -abundance. - -I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very large city, on the -Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, called the Aubette and Robec. -There stand yet the ruins of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied -by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden. -The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the -Reformed a church. - -The Cathedral Nōtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; -some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to -confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three -steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous bell so much -talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty-two round, the diameter -eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds. - -In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, -with several fair monuments. The choir has behind it a great dragon -painted on the wall, which they say had done much harm to the -inhabitants, till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop; for which -there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, and many images -were exposed with scenes and stories representing the Passion; made up of -little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, with -offerings. Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another goodly -church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when -he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court -of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls -and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well -built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are -of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city. - -21st March, 1644. On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a solitary inn -between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter place we arrived. This town is -situated between two mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the -north by our English seas. - -The port is commodious; but the entrance difficult. It has one very ample -and fair street, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet consists of -a strong earth-work, and commands the haven, as on the other side does -the castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before it; nor -is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with workmen, who make and -sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the -East Indies afford of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities, -are here to be had, with abundant choice. - -23d March, 1644. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and rugged -way, which forced us to alight many times before we came to Havre de -Grace, where we lay that night. - -The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and regular, well stored -with artillery and ammunition of all sorts: the works furnished with fair -brass cannon, having a motto, _Ratio ultima Regum_. The allogements of -the garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, -a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu -being now in the fort, we went to salute him; who received us very -civilly, and commanded that we should be showed whatever we desired to -see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, uncle of -the present Duke, and may be esteemed one of the strongest in France. The -haven is very capacious. - -When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and horses to pass to -Honfleur, about four or five leagues distant, where the Seine falls into -the sea. It is a poor fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the -odd, yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears' and other -skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these maritime coasts. - -[Sidenote: CAEN] - -25th March, 1644. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful town, situate -on the river Orne, which passes quite through it, the two sides of the -town joined only by a bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel, -where we were very well used, the place being abundantly furnished with -provisions, at a cheap rate. The most considerable object is the great -Abbey and Church, large and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having -two spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. The choir -round and large, in the center whereof elevated on a square, handsome, -but plain sepulcher, is this inscription: - - "Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, - Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque - Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno - 1562 vesano hęreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem - nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam - beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a^o D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne - de Bailhache Assętorii proto priore. D.D." - -On the other side are these monkish rhymes: - - "Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos - Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, - Et Cenomanensis virtute coėrcuit ensis, - Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. - Rex magnus parvā jacet hāc Gulielm' in Urnā, - Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. - Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus - Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hic obiit." - -We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so is the -town-house, built on the bridge which unites the two towns. Here are -schools and an University for the Jurists. - -The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well known -by that name in England. I was led to a pretty garden, planted with -hedges of alaternus, having at the entrance a screen at an exceeding -height, accurately cut in topiary work, with well understood -architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and other -ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the columns curiously wreathed, -others spiral, all according to art. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -28th March, 1644. We went toward Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, -a Bishop's seat, an ancient town, with a fair cathedral; so the next day -we arrived at Paris. - -1st April, 1644. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the fine Palace -of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary di Medicis, -and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finished piles that is to -be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The -gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the -Foundress's Life, rarely designed; at the end of it is the Duke of -Orleans' library, well furnished with excellent books, all bound in -maroquin and gilded, the valance of the shelves being of green velvet, -fringed with gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller -volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent collection of -shells and agates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being -very learned in medals and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. -There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, which look -toward the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest. - -The court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over the -chief entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone: the rest is -cloistered and arched on pilasters of rustic work. The terrace ascending -before the front, paved with white and black marble, is balustered with -white marble, exquisitely polished. - -Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat of a heavy design, -but the facia toward the parterre which is also arched and vaulted with -stone, is of admirable beauty and full of sculpture. - -The gardens are near an English mile in compass, inclosed with a stately -wall, and in a good air. The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely -designed and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful -effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into four squares and -as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin of marble near -thirty feet in diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass holds -a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty feet high, playing -perpetually, the water being conveyed from Arceuil by an aqueduct of -stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre, -the spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone, adorned -with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it near the steps of the -terrace, with a rail and baluster of pure white marble. - -The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descending and so justly -planted with limes, elms, and other trees, that nothing can be more -delicious, especially that of the hornbeam hedge, which being high and -stately, buts full on the fountain. - -Toward the further end, is an excavation intended for a vast fish-pool, -but never finished, and near it is an inclosure for a garden of simples, -well kept; and here the Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the -pool of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conservatory for -snow. At the upper part, toward the palace, is a grove of tall elms cut -into a star, every ray being a walk, whose center is a large fountain. - -The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures (all hedge-work or -rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows, bocages, some of them containing -divers acres. - -Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house, are knots in -trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a fountain. Toward the grotto -and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choice flowers, in which the -duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanted to render -this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magnificent; nor is it -one of the least diversions to see the number of persons of quality, -citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom all access is freely -permitted, so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of -gallants and ladies; in others melancholy friars; in others, studious -scholars; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on the grass, -others running and jumping; some playing at bowls and ball, others -dancing and singing; and all this without the least disturbance, by -reason of the largeness of the place. - -What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men at work, and yet all -is kept in such exquisite order, as if they did nothing else but work; it -is so early in the morning, that all is dispatched and done without the -least confusion. - -I have been the larger in the description of this paradise, for the -extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweet retirements. The -Cabinet and Chapel nearer the garden-front have some choice pictures. All -the houses near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite -Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from its breadth, -situation, and buildings. - -I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques' steeple, esteemed -the highest in the town, from whence I had a full view of the whole city -and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as London: though -the dissimilitude of their several forms and situations, this being -round, London long,--renders it difficult to determine; but there is no -comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being -entirely of stone and more sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to -exceed theirs. - -Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard, where the story of the -devouring quality of the ground (consuming bodies in twenty-four hours), -the vast charnels of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchers, took up much -of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas -Flamel's philosophical work, who had founded this church, and divers -other charitable establishments, as he testifies in his book. - -Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters for poor -maids and other ignorant people who come to them for advice, and to write -for them into the country, both to their sweethearts, parents, and -friends; every large gravestone serving for a table. Joining to this -church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it. - -The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious -collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels of all sorts of -precious stones, most of them of great sizes and value; agates and -onyxes, some of them admirably colored and antique; nor inferior were his -landscapes from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copied -in miniature; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken by one of -our company, by the mischance of setting it up: but such was the temper -and civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his free and -noble humor. - -The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden of Monsieur Morine, -who, from being an ordinary gardener, is become one of the most skillful -and curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, -and insects. - -His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypress, cut flat and -set as even as a wall: the tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, -etc., are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that -kind to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage at -one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain and coral, -whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is much esteemed. He has -also books of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, etc. His -collection of all sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most -curious; these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption invading -them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to represent a beautiful -piece of tapestry. - -He showed me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which he -promised to publish. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he had -caused to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil. - -6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,[18] -which she requested of me, and went to see divers of the fairest palaces -of the town, as that of Vendōme, very large and stately; Lougueville; -Guise; Condé; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris -toward the river. - - [Footnote 18: In the first and second editions of the "Diary" many - trifling personal details, such as this mention of the author having - sent his own picture in water colors to his sister, were omitted. It - is not necessary to point them out in detail. They are always of - this personal character; as, among other examples, the mention of - the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, and that - of his coming weary to his lodgings.] - -I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the King, -on condition that it should be called by his name; at this time, the King -resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble -house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of the most -illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's baths, presence-chamber -with its rich carved and gilded roof, theater, and large garden, in which -is an ample fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also -frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great horse, especially -at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, whose schools of that -art are frequented by the nobility; and here also young gentlemen are -taught to fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification and -the mathematics. The design is admirable, some keeping near a hundred -brave horses, all managed to the great saddle. - -12th April, 1644. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the _gens -d'armes_ about the city, in the Bois de Boulogne, before their Majesties -and all the Grandees. They were reputed to be near 20,000, besides the -spectators, who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all -their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, into several figures, -represented a battle. - -[Sidenote: ORLEANS] - -The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend the rest of it in some -more remote town on the river Loire; and, on 19th of April, I took leave -of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to -Orleans. - -The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the roads in France, -is paved with a small square freestone, so that the country does not much -molest the traveler with dirt and ill way, as in England, only 'tis -somewhat hard to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more -temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or _grand pas_, as they call -it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages; among others of note, -Chartres and Etampes, where we lay the first night. This has a fair -church. The next day, we had an excellent road; but had liked to come -short home: for no sooner were we entered two or three leagues into the -Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company -behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and -frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain -of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This -disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevōt -Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they -had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would -take cognizance of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this -escape; when coming to Orleans and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr. -John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. In the night a cat kittened -on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, two -bodies from the middle downward, and two tails. I found it dead, but -warm, in the morning when I awaked. - -21st April, 1644. I went about to view the city, which is well built of -stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle of the river is an -island, full of walks and fair trees, with some houses. This is -contiguous to the town by a stately stone bridge, reaching to the -opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a -beautiful prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong -towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin -Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At -one side of the cross, kneels Charles VII., armed, and at the other Joan -d'Arc, armed also like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair -disheveled, as the deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they -besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedestal full of -inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned -with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it -were) from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross -are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos į contagione, labis et -ęternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes -profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab -impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. -f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicā liberavit. A Domino factum -est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memorią hęc -nostrę fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of -May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and -concourse of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's -cup bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the King any of -it: but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into other -countries. The town is much frequented by strangers, especially Germans, -for the great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers -other privileges, and the University, which causes the English to make no -long sojourn here, except such as can drink and debauch. The city stands -in the county of Bealse (Blaisois); was once styled a Kingdom, afterward -a Duchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. Many -Councils have been held here, and some Kings crowned. The University is -very ancient, divided now by the students into that of four nations, -French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardines, who have each their -respective protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, etc. -There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries, whence one may -borrow a book to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, which is an -extraordinary custom, and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear. -The first church I went to visit was St. Croix; it has been a stately -fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars. They report the tower -of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning of a -fair reparation. About this cathedral there is a very spacious cemetery. -The townhouse is also very nobly built, with a high tower to it. The -market place and streets, some whereof are deliciously planted with -limes, are ample and straight, so well paved with a kind of pebble, that -I have not seen a neater town in France. In fine, this city was by -Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions. - -28th April, 1644. Taking boat on the Loire, I went toward Blois, the -passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at -Baugenci, and slept at a little town called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, -we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house of the -King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a solitary park, full of -deer, inclosed with a wall. I was particularly desirous of seeing this -palace, from the extravagance of the design, especially the staircase, -mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly -employed in this fabric for twelve years: if so, it is wonderful that it -was not finished, it being no greater than divers gentlemen's houses in -England, both for room and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and -full. The staircase is devised with four entries, or assents, which cross -one another, so that though four persons meet, they never come in sight, -but by small loopholes, till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I -remember), and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense than -use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear like so many towers. -About the whole is a large deep moat. The country about is full of corn, -and wine, with many fair noblemen's houses. - -[Sidenote: BLOIS] - -We arrived at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and -rugged, standing on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joined by a -stately stone bridge, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the -entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as -large as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these words: - - "Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, - Sumpsit honoratā regia sceptra manu; - Felix quę tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis! - Gallica non alio principe digna fuit." - -Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of wolves and -wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gaston had begun a -fair building, through which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for -its furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic -plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand is a -long gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of marble and -brass; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower -ground, having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a hart, -taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-four antlers on its -head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Savior, we saw many sepulchres of -the Earls of Blois. - -On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall Mall, very long, and so -noble shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a great wood), that -unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier. - -From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoining -forest, to see if we could meet any wolves, which are here in such -numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streets; -yet will not the Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be -destroyed. We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; yet a -gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, with his horse grazing -by him, told us that half an hour before, two wolves had set upon his -horse, and had in probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by -him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we ate excellent cream, -and visited a castle builded on a very steep cliff. - -Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken; the inhabitants -very courteous; the air so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of the -King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's work -and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the -river are very rich and pleasant. - -2d May, 1644. We took boat again, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on -the left hand; before it is a sweet island, deliciously shaded with tall -trees. A little distance from hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very -agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue -slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the castle chiefly -invited us, the thickness of whose towers from the river to the top, was -admirable. We entered by the drawbridge, which has an invention to let -one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers, -and one staircase is large enough, and sufficiently commodious, to -receive a coach, and land it on the very tower, as they told us had been -done. There is some artillery in it; but that which is most observable is -in the ancient chapel, viz, a stag's head, or branches, hung up by -chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's -middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I -cannot conceive how it should be artificial they show also the ribs and -vertebrę of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone. - -Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village having no houses -above ground but such only as are hewn out of the main rocks of excellent -freestone. Here and there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface -among the vineyards which are over them, and in this manner they inhabit -the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side of the river for many -miles. - -[Sidenote: TOURS] - -We now came within sight of Tours, where we were designed for the rest of -the time I had resolved to stay in France, the sojournment being so -agreeable. Tours is situate on the east side of a hill on the river -Loire, having a fair bridge of stone called St. Edme; the streets are -very long, straight, spacious, well built, and exceeding clean; the -suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city by another bridge. Both -the church and monastery of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, -having four square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they -show the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. The Mall -without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having -seven rows of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the -innermost of which do so embrace each other, and at such a height, that -nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here we played a party, or -party or two, and then walked about the town walls, built of square -stone, filled with earth, and having a moat. No city in France exceeds it -in beauty, or delight. - -6th May, 1644. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been built by our -countrymen; the dial and clockwork are much esteemed. The church has two -handsome towers and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble -and venerable. To this joins the palace of the Archbishop, consisting -both of old and new building, with many fair rooms, and a fair garden. -Here I grew acquainted with one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The -Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other churches, -chapels, and monasteries for the most part neatly built, and full of -pretty paintings, especially the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a -prospect over the whole city, and many fair walks. - -8th May, 1644. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in this town -they drive a very considerable trade with silk-worms), their pressing and -watering the grograms and camlets, with weights of an extraordinary -poise, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language, -and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at -the Mall, and sometimes about the town. The house opposite my lodging had -been formerly a King's palace; the outside was totally covered with -fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her -Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of -the great Cardinal. - -25th May, 1644. Was the Fźte Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the -religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and -their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and -pictures in abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of -pageantry, banners, and bravery. - -6th June, 1644. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abbey -of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in the kingdom; to it is a very -ample church of stone, with a very high pyramid. Among other relics the -Monks showed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that which sacres -their Kings at Rheims, this being the one that anointed Henry IV. -Ascending many steps, we went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were -showed a vast tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report St. -Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing there. - -7th June, 1644. We walked about two miles from the city to an agreeable -solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to the King. It has many -pretty gardens, full of nightingales; and, in the chapel, lies buried the -famous poet, Ronsard. - -Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, -where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis ą -Paula, whose ashes lie in their chapel, with this inscription: "_Corpus -Sancti Fran. ą Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verņ ab Hęreticis anno -1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hģc jacent_." The tomb has four small -pyramids of marble at each corner. - -9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so artificially -planted and supported with arched poles, that stooping down one might see -from end to end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches -hanging down in abundance. - -20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called -Gouttičre, near Colombičre, where there is a spring within the bowels of -the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with -some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, which hangs -about it like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and -sugar plums, as we call them. - -Near this, we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted with -candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole city, by a -passage cut through the main rock of freestone. - -28th June, 1644. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, a -sweet place. - -30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbé, to -the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by -the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from -whence the country and river yield a most incomparable prospect. - -27th July, 1644. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who have here a -school and convent, but a mean chapel. We have now store of those -admirable melons, so much celebrated in France for the best in the -kingdom. - -1st August, 1644. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in Biscao, having -misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him; he demanded of me (besides his -wages) no less than 100 crowns to carry him to his country; refusing to -pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest me; -the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our avocats pleaded -before the Lieutenant Civil; but it was so unreasonable a pretense, that -the Judge had not patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately -acquitted me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part with my -servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous excuse to me, -that being a stranger I should be so used, he conducted me through the -court to the street-door. This varlet afterward threatened to pistol me. -The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for his great -civility. - -18th August, 1644. The Queen of England came to Tours, having newly -arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly received by -the people and clergy, who went to meet her with the trained bands. -After the harangue, the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I -paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. - -8th September, 1644. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, -where I settled them in their pension and exercises. - -14th September, 1644. We took post for Richelieu, passing by l'Isle -Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we arrived, and went to see -the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The town is built in a low, marshy -ground, having a narrow river cut by hand, very even and straight, -capable of bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one -considerable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the -town) built exactly uniform, after a modern handsome design. It has a -large goodly market house and place, opposite to which is the church -built of freestone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from -the towers. The church is well built, and of a well-ordered architecture, -within handsomely paved and adorned. To this place belongs an Academy, -where, besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, etc., all the -sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors stipendiated by -the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living there, and divers -privileges, not only designed the improvement of the vulgar language, but -to draw people and strangers to the town; but since the Cardinal's death, -it is thinly inhabited; standing so much out of the way, and in a place -not well situated for health, or pleasure. He was allured to build by the -name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors. -This pretty town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind of -slight fortification, two fair gates and drawbridges. Before the gate, -toward the palace, is a spacious circle, where the fair is annually kept. -About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely -pile, though on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and -environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished -with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all -sorts of antiquities, especially the Cęsars, in oriental alabaster. The -long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder; the roof -with the life of Julius Cęsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing -theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel -anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample. -The gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excellent -embroidery, set with many statues of brass and marble; the groves, -meadows, and walks are a real Paradise. - -16th September, 1644. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen -weeks' sojourn, we traveled toward the more southern part of France, -minding now to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my -friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven -leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and -now belonging to the Duke de Vendōme, standing on a bridge. In the -gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio -Africanus, of oriental alabaster. - -[Sidenote: BOURGES] - -21st September, 1644. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and so -by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was twenty leagues. The next -day by Murg to Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is the -capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on -the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense; -is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. -In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which -they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which -they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with -great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well -built _ą la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the -representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they -show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served -six kings of France in their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that -at Paris, full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a giant -of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John, Duke of Berry, and there -is showed the coronet of the dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for -defense of the town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified -with graffs and works; there is a garrison in it, and a strange engine -for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where Louis, Duke of -Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near the Town-house stands the College -of Jesuits, where was heretofore an Amphitheater. I was courteously -entertained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we fell into -disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. Bourges is an -Archbishopric and Primacy of Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, -and some other English there; and, on the 23d, proceeded on my journey by -Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, thirteen leagues. - -24th September, 1644. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins, where -we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbonnois, on the river Allier, -very navigable. The streets are fair; the castle has a noble prospect, -and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden. -After dinner, came many who offered knives and scissors to sell; it being -a town famous for these trifles. This Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily -assigned for the dowry of the Queens of France. - -Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village, where we lay that -night. The next day, we went somewhat out of the way to see the town of -Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived the -name of the present Royal Family of France. The castle stands on a flinty -rock, overlooking the town. In the midst of the streets are some baths of -medicinal waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly -walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire; and indeed they are chiefly -used to drink of, our Queen being then lodged there for that purpose. -After dinner, I went to see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion, -where is kept one of the thorns of our Savior's crown, and a piece of the -real cross; excellent paintings on glass, and some few statues of stone -and wood, which they show for curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La -Palise, a village that lodged us that night. - -26th September, 1644. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our guide, -and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me one of the pleasantest and -most agreeable places imaginable, for a retired person: for, besides the -situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and -abundant. It being late when we left this town, we rode no further than -Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a -valley near a pleasant stream, encompassed with fresh meadows and -vineyards. The hills which we rode over before we descended, and -afterward, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and mountainous; fir -and pines growing frequently on them. The air methought was much altered -as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after -the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a landscape of this -pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent tempest of thunder and -lightning. - -[Sidenote: LYONS] - -27th September, 1644. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but six -leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five leagues from Tours -in seven days. Here at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of -my acquaintance, who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We lost -no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to accompany these -gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is excellently situated on the -confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhone, which wash the walls of the -city in a very rapid stream; each of these has its bridge; that over the -Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high cliffs, called St. -Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately; on one of them stands a strong -fort, garrisoned. We visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of -the fairest clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The fabric -of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. Etienne and St. -Croix. From the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we -beheld the whole city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps, -many leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church -of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here -are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time -to visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm -people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, -and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing. -The place of the _Belle Cour_ is very spacious, observable for the view -it affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, -gardens, precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advantages -presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is set with fair trees. In -fine, this stately, clean, and noble city, built all of stone, abounds -in persons of quality and rich merchants: those of Florence obtaining -great privileges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two tables -of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech, pronounced to the -Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with the Roman -privileges. There are also other antiquities. - -30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon -on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an -Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of -France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of -truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog trained to it, -and for which those animals are sold at a great price. It is in truth an -incomparable meat. We were shown the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty -entire; and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius Pilate, not -far from the town, at the foot of a solitary mountain, near the river, -having four pinnacles. Here it is reported he passed his exile, and -precipitated himself into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, -and seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very pleasant, -though melancholy place. The cathedral of Vienne is St. Maurice; and -there are many other pretty buildings, but nothing more so, than the -mills where they hammer and polish the sword blades. - -Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that the -boat was only steered) to a small village called Thein, where we dined. -Over against this is another town, named Tournon, where is a very strong -castle under a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College, -who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting, that I could not -forbear designing it with my crayon. - -We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the title of a Duchy; -but the Bishop is now sole Lord temporal of it, and the country about it. -The town having a University famous for the study of the civil law, is -much frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, having been -greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The streets are full of pretty -fountains. The citadel is strong and garrisoned. Here we passed the -night, and the next morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of -twenty-two arches; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were, to -receive the water when it is high and full. Here we went on shore, it -being very dangerous to pass the bridge in a boat. - -[Sidenote: AVIGNON] - -Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a distance the town -and principality of Orange; and, lodging one night on the way, we arrived -at noon at Avignon. This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the -time of Clement V.; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen of Naples -and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at the guard took our -pistols and carbines, and examined us very strictly; after that, having -obtained the Governor's and the Vice-Legate's leave to tarry three days, -we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, and -divided from the newer part, or town, which is on the other side of the -river, by a very fair stone bridge (which has been broken); at one end is -a very high rock, on which is a strong castle well furnished with -artillery. The walls of the city are of large, square freestone, the most -neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-built palaces; -those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop being the most magnificent. There -are many sumptuous churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. -Martial, wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most -observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celestines, the altar -whereof is exceedingly rich: but for nothing I more admired it than the -tomb of Madonna Laura, the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the -Arsenal, the Pope's palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here are -distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the -solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the castle; but could not go to -visit it for want of time, being now taking mules and a guide for -Marseilles. - -We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix, having passed that -extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this tract, all the -heaths, or commons, are covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and -the like sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was very -pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a Parliament and -Presidential town, with other royal Courts and Metropolitan jurisdiction. -It is well built, the houses very high, and the streets ample. The -Cathedral, St. Savior's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable -figures; especially that of St. Michael; the Baptisterie, the Palace, the -Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. The Duke of -Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many antiquities in -and about it. The Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a -University. - -7th October, 1644. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, through -a country sweetly declining to the south and Mediterranean coasts, full -of vineyards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and -the like sweet plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to -the number of above 1,500, built all of freestone, and in prospect -showing as if they were so many heaps of snow dropped out of the clouds -among those perennial greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates -that we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising -ground, well walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys, -secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbor at pleasure; and -there is a well-fortified tower with three other forts, especially that -built on a rock; but the castle commanding the city is that of Notre Dame -de la Garde. In the chapel hung up are divers crocodiles' skins. - -We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-five in number; the -Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us most courteous entertainment in his -cabin, the slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft music very -rarely. Then he showed us how he commanded their motions with a nod, and -his whistle making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and strange, -to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, their heads being -shaven close, and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvas -drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained about their -middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to their seats, and all -commanded in a trice by an imperious and cruel seaman. One Turk among the -rest he much favored, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no other -dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his leg, but not coupled. -This galley was richly carved and gilded, and most of the rest were very -beautiful. After bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a -band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged. I was amazed to -contemplate how these miserable caitiffs lie in their galley crowded -together; yet there was hardly one but had some occupation, by which, as -leisure and calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as some -of them have, after many years of cruel servitude, been able to purchase -their liberty. The rising-forward and falling-back at their oar, is a -miserable spectacle, and the noise of their chains, with the roaring of -the beaten waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one -unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by strokes on their -backs and soles of their feet, on the least disorder, and without the -least humanity, yet are they cheerful and full of knavery. - -After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where is that saint's -head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600 pounds. Thence to Notre -Dame, exceedingly well built, which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke -of Guise's Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi; but -nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves working in the -streets, and carrying burdens, with their confused noises, and jingling -of their huge chains. The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs -out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are brought -hither in great numbers. The town is governed by four captains, has three -consuls, and one assessor, three judges royal; the merchants have a judge -for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and -consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of the Picaroon -Turks, who make prize of any small vessels about these parts; we not -finding a galley bound for Genoa, whither we were designed. - -[Sidenote: PERIGUEUX] - -9th October, 1644. We took mules, passing the first night very late in -sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot where they affirmed Mary -Magdalen did her penance. The next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built -on an old foundation; witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre, -which I went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the town; they -call it now the Rolsies. There is also a strong tower near the town, -called the Visone, but the town and city are at some distance from each -other. It is a bishopric; has a cathedral with divers noblemen's houses -in sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum Julij, well -known by antiquaries. - -10th October, 1644. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct. The -soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. - -11th October, 1644. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the -Mediterranean; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and, -having procured a bill of health (without which there is no admission at -any town in Italy), we embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of -St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spaniards with great -bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having paid some small duty, we bought -some trifles offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore. -Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is the utmost town -in France. Thence by Nice, a city in Savoy, built all of brick, which -gives it a very pleasant appearance toward the sea, having a very high -castle which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called Monaco, having -passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus Herculis, when, arriving after the -gates were shut, we were forced to abide all night in the barge, which -was put into the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning, we were -hastened away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go -up and see this strong and considerable place, which now belongs to a -prince of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and -himself under the protection of the French. The situation is on a -promontory of solid stone and rock. The town walls very fair. We were -told that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnished with the -most rich and princely movables, and a collection of statues, pictures, -and massy plate to an immense amount. - -[Sidenote: SAVONA] - -We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first city of the republic -of Genoa; supped at Oneglia, where we anchored and lay on shore. The next -morning, we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where -the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and date trees; -we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning by Diano, Araisso, famous for -the best coral fishing, growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and -continually covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair and -strong town belonging to the King of Spain, for which reason a monsieur -in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was the patron of our bark, for -they frequently catch French prizes as they creep by these shores to go -into Italy; he therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the -protection of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and in -whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona, a town built at the -rise of the Apennines: for all this coast (except a little of St. Remo) -is a high and steep mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, -without any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange -object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast on the -declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend -to them. The rock consists of all sorts of the most precious marbles. - -Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, we encountered a little foul -weather, which made us creep _terra, terra_, as they call it, and so a -vessel that encountered us advised us to do; but our patron, striving to -double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into great -hazard; for blowing very hard from land between those horrid gaps of the -mountains, it set so violently, as raised on the sudden so great a sea, -that we could not recover the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch -that, what with the water already entered, and the confusion of fearful -passengers (of which one was an Irish bishop, and his brother, a priest, -were confessing some as at the article of death), we were almost -abandoned to despair, our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now, -as we were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking, -it pleased God on the sudden to appease the wind, and with much ado and -great peril we recovered the shore, which we now kept in view within half -a league in sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those -fragrant orchards which are on this coast, full of princely retirements -for the sumptuousness of their buildings, and nobleness of the -plantations, especially those at St. Pietro d'Arena; from whence, the -wind blowing as it did, might perfectly be smelt the peculiar joys of -Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers -leagues seaward.[19] - - [Footnote 19: Evelyn seems to have been much enchanted by the - fragrancy of the air of this coast, for he has noticed it again in - his dedication of the "Fumifugium," to Charles the Second.] - -[Sidenote: GENOA] - -16th October, 1644. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch-tower, -built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being -still so foul that for two hours at least we durst not stand into the -haven. Toward evening we adventured, and came on shore by the -Prattique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we were -had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names being taken, we were -conducted to our inn, kept by one Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never -forget a story of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, -told us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed solemnly, -in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the West Indies, that he swam -no less than twenty-two leagues to another island, with a tinderbox -wrapped up in his hair, which was not so much as wet all the way; that -picking up the carpenter's tools with other provisions in a chest, he and -the carpenter, who accompanied him (good swimmers it seems both), floated -the chest before them; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, -they built another vessel, and so escaped! After this story, we no more -talked of our danger; Zachary put us quite down. - -17th October, 1644. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called -Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The city is built in the hollow or -bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is very steep, high, and rocky, so -that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a -theater; the streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as our -seats are in the playhouses; but, from their materials, beauty, and -structure, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor -is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-designed and stately -palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio -which the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has published, though -it contains [the description of] only one street and two or three -churches. - -The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, to -which we passed by boat across the harbor. Here I could not but observe -the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us was -intercepted by another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and -took us in; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in -his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, showing it to his -antagonist as an assurance to him of some bloody revenge, if ever he came -near that part of the harbor again. Indeed this beautiful city is more -stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders, than any one place -in Europe, or haply in the world, where there is a political government, -which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a -knife whose point is not broken off. - -This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest pictures; on -the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees, among -which are sheep, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a -gray stone; fountains, rocks, and fish ponds; casting your eyes one way, -you would imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country; sideways, -in the heart of a great city; and backward, in the midst of the sea. All -this is within one acre of ground. In the house, I noticed those -red-plaster floors which are made so hard, and kept so polished, that for -some time one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I have -frequently wondered that we never practiced this [art] in England for -cabinets and rooms of state, for it appears to me beyond any invention of -that kind; but by their carefully covering them with canvass and fine -mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they are not lasting -there in glory, and haply they are often repaired. - -There are numerous other palaces of particular curiosities, for the -marchands being very rich, have, like our neighbors, the Hollanders, -little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in; as those in -pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich -furniture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince -Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit of the mountains. The -house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnished -within, having whole tables and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them -set with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, torquoises, and -other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. To this -palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with a -terrace, supported by pillars of marble; there is a fountain of eagles, -and one of Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white marble; -they stand in a most ample basin of the same stone. At the side of this -garden is such an aviary as Sir Francis Bacon describes in his "_Sermones -Fidelium_," or "Essays," wherein grow trees of more than two feet -diameter, besides cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other rare shrubs, -which serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air and -place enough under their airy canopy, supported with huge iron work, -stupendous for its fabric and the charge. The other two gardens are full -of orange trees, citrons, and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and -statues. One of the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the -sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family -received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a year, during the life of that -faithful animal. The reservoir of water here is a most admirable piece of -art; and so is the grotto over against it. - -We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court of -Justice; thence to the Merchant's Walk, rarely covered. Near the Ducal -Palace we saw the public armory, which was almost all new, most neatly -kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were showed many rare -inventions and engines of war peculiar to that armory, as in the state -when guns were first put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly -consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly -of polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and for stateliness of the -buildings, paving, and evenness of the street, is far superior to any in -Europe, for the number of houses; that of Don Carlo Doria is a most -magnificent structure. In the gardens of the old Marquis Spinola, I saw -huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our apricots to the -walls. The churches are no less splendid than the palaces; that of St. -Francis is wholly built of Parian marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of -the city, of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly incrusted -with marble and other precious materials; on the altar of St. John stand -four sumptuous columns of porphyry; and here we were showed an emerald, -supposed to be one of the largest in the world. The church of St. -Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, exceed all the -rest; and that of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family, -in the present and future design can never be outdone for cost and art. -From the churches we walked to the Mole, a work of solid huge stone, -stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea, and secures the -harbor, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art -and nature of the design, nothing parallels this. We passed over to the -Pharos, or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took horses, -and made the circuit of the city as far as the new walls, built of a -prodigious height, and with Herculean industry; witness those vast pieces -of whole mountains which they have hewn away, and blown up with -gunpowder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are not much less -than twenty English miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings -of the city. From one of these promontories we could easily discern the -island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw a vale having a -great torrent running through a most desolate barren country; and then -turning our eyes more northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro -d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retirements of -the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain, we descended toward the -Arsenal, where the galleys lie in excellent order. - -The inhabitants of the city are much affected to the Spanish mode and -stately garb. From the narrowness of the streets, they use sedans and -litters, and not coaches. - -19th October, 1644. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or Leghorn; but -the sea running very high, we put in at Porto Venere, which we made with -peril, between two narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with -great velocity; but we were soon delivered into as great a calm and a -most ample harbor, being in the Golfo di Spetia. From hence, we could see -Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that -famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, being about two -leagues over, more resembling a lake than a haven, but defended by -castles and excessive high mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being -Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streets -in solemn devotion. After dinner we took post-horses, passing through -whole groves of olive trees, the way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, -but afterward pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana and -Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure -inn, at a place called Viregio. The next morning we arrived at Pisa, -where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come -out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till more than a year -after. - -The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy; it has -contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The -palace and church of St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by -that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof -being altogether of polished marble; within, it is full of tables -relating to this Order; over which hang divers banners and pendants, with -other trophies taken by them from the Turks, against whom they are -particularly obliged to fight; though a religious order, they are -permitted to marry. At the front of the palace stands a fountain, and the -statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by -John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in -a row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of -the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would -expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare address -of the architect; and how it is supported from falling I think would -puzzle a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing near it, is -a superb structure, beautified with six columns of great antiquity; the -gates are of brass, of admirable workmanship. The cemetery called Campo -Santo is made of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from -Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in -forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies buried the -learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this -church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore -contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cęsar. It is placed, as -I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns. -Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, -built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a cupola, -that the voice uttered under it seems to break out of a cloud. The font -and pulpit, supported by four lions, is of inestimable value for the -preciousness of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they -call the AREA. Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so -furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dried animals, -skeletons, etc., as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physic -Garden lies, where is a noble palm tree, and very fine waterworks. The -river Arno runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the main -street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that the Duke's galleys, built -in the arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river is an -arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is -nowhere in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is placed -the statue of Ferdinand the Third; over against it is the Exchange, built -of marble. Since this city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has -been much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any which exceeds -it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and flat; but the -inhabitants have spacious gardens, and even fields within the walls. - -[Sidenote: LIVORNO] - -21st October, 1644. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great Duke's -new park full of huge cork trees, the underwood all myrtles, among which -were many buffaloes feeding, a kind of wild ox, short nose with horns -reversed; those who work with them command them, as our bearwards do the -bears, with a ring through the nose, and a cord. Much of this park, as -well as a great part of the country about it, is very fenny, and the air -very bad. - -Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke's territories; -heretofore a very obscure town, but since Duke Ferdinand has strongly -fortified it (after the modern way), drained the marshes by cutting a -channel thence to Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole, -emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place of -great receipt; it has also a place for the galleys, where they lie safe. -Before the sea is an ample piazza for the market, where are the statues -in copper of the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion, -and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern -work. Here, especially in this piazza, is such a concourse of slaves, -Turks, Moors, and other nations, that the number and confusion is -prodigious; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others playing, -some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly -naked, and miserably chained. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow -might stake his liberty against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard; -and, if he lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the galleys, -where he was to serve a term of years, but from whence they seldom -returned; many sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their -fortune in this way. - -The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _į -fresco_ on the outer walls, with representations of many of their -victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the -earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in -Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very fair and commodious, and, -with the church, whose four columns at the portico are of black marble -polished, gave the first hint to the building both of the church and -piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued. - -[Sidenote: FLORENCE] - -22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, -and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of -Signor Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were -exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the -west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with -more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to -gentlemen of the town. The river Arno runs through the city, in a broad, -but very shallow channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and -over it are four most sumptuous bridges of stone. On that nearest to our -quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble; on another are the -goldsmiths' shops; at the head of the former stands a column of ophite, -upon which a statue of Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of -porphyry, and the more remarkable for being the first which had been -carved out of that hard material, and brought to perfection, after the -art had been utterly lost; they say this was done by hardening the tools -in the juice of certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner, -because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of Sienna being -taken. - -Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of -architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that -family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones -of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each -side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a -cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens. -Nothing is more admirable than the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, -urns, pictures, court, grotto, and waterworks. In the quadrangle is a -huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble statues at each -square, especially the Diana of porphyry above the grotto. We were here -shown a prodigious great loadstone. - -The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, -vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos, the middle basin -being one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is everything to make -such a Paradise delightful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an -orange tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns in architecture -about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratory, over against -which stands a fort on a hill, where they told us his treasure is kept. -In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss guards, -after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his -wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker bottles dangling over -even the chief entrance into the palace, serving for a vintner's bush. - -In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, and -full of precious stones; there are four pillars of a kind of serpentine, -and some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called -Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael Angelo, -and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. The -quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall are -many rare marbles, as those of Leo X. and Clement VII., both Popes of the -Medicean family; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare painting. In the chapel -is kept (as they would make one believe) the original Gospel of St. John, -written with his own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and -divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower like that of -Pisa, always threatening ruin. - -Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men to walk in, and -over that, the shops of divers rare artists who continually work for the -great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or repository, -wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and -metal, vases of porphyry, etc.; but among the statues none so famous as -the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of Apollo, brought from the Delphic -Temple, and two triumphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the -most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, to the number of -300, taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. They then led us into a -large square room, in the middle of which stood a cabinet of an -octangular form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and -sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is called the -_Tribuna_ and in it is a pearl as big as an hazelnut. The cabinet is of -ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over the door is a round of M. Angelo; on the -cabinet, Leo X. with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and -Correggio, viz, a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads of -Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently -carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable -pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental -columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cęsar, -covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they -resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and -the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred -thousand crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars, was a series of -golden medals. Here is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a -tortoise shell, and containing a collection of gold medals esteemed worth -50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of Oriental alabaster, divers paintings -of Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an _Ecce Homo_ of Titian, a Boy of -Bronzini, etc. They showed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which -they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept the Tabernacle -appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, about which are placed small -statues of Saints, of precious material; a piece of such art and cost, -that having been these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most -curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Commesso, -which is a marble ground inlaid with several sorts of marbles and stones -of various colors representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and -landscapes. In one is represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand -who inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I -purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a cabinet. In a press near -this they showed an iron nail, one half whereof being converted into gold -by one Thurnheuser, a German chemist, is looked on as a great rarity; but -it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. There is a curious -watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an -emperor's head. - -In the armory are kept many antique habits, as those of Chinese kings; -the sword of Charlemagne; Hannibal's headpiece; a loadstone of a yard -long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such -as the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare turneries in -ivory, as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a fair -pillar of oriental alabaster; twelve vast and complete services of silver -plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered -saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and here is that -embroidered chair set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on St. -John's day, he receives the tribute of the cities. - -25th October, 1644. We went to the Portico where the famous statue of -Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, all of copper; but what is -most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine, with another man under foot, the -confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one -entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most stupendous; this -stands directly against the great piazza, where, to adorn one fountain, -are erected four marble statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune -and his family of sea gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four sea -horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst of a very great -basin: a work, I think, hardly to be paralleled. Here is also the famous -statue of David, by M. Angelo; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli; -the Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Donatelli, which -stand publicly before the old Palace with the Centaur of Bologna, huge -Colossean figures. Near this stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in -brass on a pedestal of marble, and four copper bassorelievos by John di -Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the First, on horseback, -is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen boar, which serves for another public -fountain, is admirable. - -After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annunciata, where the Duke and -his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute -for sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles, [proved] by -innumerable votive tablets, etc., covering almost the walls of the whole -church. This is the image of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and -which the artist finished so well, that he was in despair of performing -the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was miraculously done for him -while he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke himself. -Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar -is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by thirty -great silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters. -Our Savior's Passion in brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of -John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. - -To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted in _fresco_ -very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for 1,000 persons, with -nurse-children, and several other charitable accommodations. - -At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses -of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are -continually exercised in the _mančge_. - -Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, -bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in a deep walled court, and -therefore to be seen with more pleasure than those at the Tower of -London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, -to catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down. - -[Sidenote: SIENNA] - -[20]There are many plain brick towers erected for defense, when this was -a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing at the foot of -the piazza which we went first to see after our arrival. At the entrance -of this tower is a chapel open toward the piazza, of marble well adorned -with sculpture. - - [Footnote 20: There seems to be here an omission in the MS. between - their leaving Florence and going to Sienna.] - -On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built _a la -moderna_, of brick; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made, that -they look almost as well as porphyry itself, having a kind of natural -polish. - -In the Senate-house is a very fair Hall where they sometimes entertain -the people with public shows and operas, as they call them. Toward the -left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of brass, -placed on a column of ophite stone, which they report was brought from -the renowned Ephesian Temple. These ensigns being the arms of the town, -are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far -without the city. - -The piazza compasses the facciįta of the court and chapel, and, being -made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop -shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks -above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved, render it -very clean. About this market place (for so it is) are many fair palaces, -though not built with excess of elegance. There stands an arch, the work -of Baltazzar di Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not -easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some imperceptible -contiguations, which do not betray themselves easily to the eye. On the -edge of the piazza is a goodly fountain beautified with statues, the -water issuing out of the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo -Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in the -city, of good design. - -After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the University, or rather -College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when -they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has -produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, -Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Ęneas Sylvius; and both -were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini. - -The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius II. has built a -most stately palace of square stone, with an incomparable portico -joining near to it. The town is commanded by a castle which hath four -bastions and a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in, -much frequented by the gallants in summer. - -Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, where in -the chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they show her head, the rest of her -body being translated to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both without and -within, is of large square stones of black and white marble polished, of -inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorned with sculpture and rare -statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry -streaked colored marble. About the body of the church, on a cornice -within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is beautified -with marble figures, a piece of exquisite work; but what exceeds all -description is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and other -figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the history of the Bible, -so artificially expressed in the natural colors of the marbles, that few -pictures exceed it. Here stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on -the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. -The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the -altar is the library, where are painted the acts of Ęneas Sylvius, and -others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist, -wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by -the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription -testifies. They have also St. Peter's sword, with which he smote off the -ear of Malchus. - -Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital, where they -entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrims as go -to Rome. In the chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius, -their founder, as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years. -They show one of the nails which pierced our Savior, and Saint -Chrysostom's "Comment on the Gospel," written by his own hand. Below the -hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure -more than food. - -St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near which, yet a little without -the city, grows a tree which they report in their legend grew from the -Saint's staff, which, on going to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at -his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of -it in decoction cures sundry diseases. - -[Sidenote: TORRINIERI] - -2d November, 1644. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the -cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.,[21] who had not yet made the -grand procession to St. John di Laterano. We set out by Porto Romano, the -country all about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild boar and -venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the towns about it. -We passed near Monte Oliveto, where the monastery of that Order is -pleasantly situated, and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which, by -the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, we went -through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of the Emperor, Henry VII., -who was here poisoned with the Holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to -Torrinieri, where we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of -Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello.[22] After three miles more, -we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private osteria near it, where, after -we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, -now come from Rome; he was so civil as to entertain us with great -respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he had been once -in our country. Among other discourse, he related how a dove had been -seen to sit on the chair in the Conclave at the election of Pope -Innocent, which he magnified as a great good omen, with other particulars -which we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came in great -state with his own bedstead and all the furniture, yet would by no means -suffer us to resign the room we had taken up in the lodging before his -arrival. Next morning, we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, -Monte Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping -above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at -Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for the necessary -refreshment of travelers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we -entered a very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like rocks -at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going up; they were dry -misty vapors, hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, and obscuring -both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in -the clouds, till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene -heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the mountain -appearing more like a great island than joined to any other hills; for we -could perceive nothing but a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet -like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top of some other -mountain to peep through, which we could discover many miles off: and -between some breaches of the clouds we could see landscapes and villages -of the subjacent country. This was one of the most pleasant, new, and -altogether surprising objects that I had ever beheld. - - [Footnote 21: John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, - died in 1655.] - - [Footnote 22: The wine so called.] - -On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong -fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a small town; the provisions -are drawn up with ropes and engines, the precipice being otherwise -inaccessible. At one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely -broken off from the ragged mountain, as would affright one with their -horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the inn gushed out a -plentiful and most useful fountain which falls into a great trough of -stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my -black lead pen took the prospect. It is one of the utmost confines of the -Etrurian State toward St. Peter's Patrimony, since the gift of Matilda to -Gregory VII., as is pretended. - -Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory XIV., and thence -immediately to Acquapendente, a town situated on a very ragged rock, down -which precipitates an entire river (which gives it the denomination), -with a most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is -this inscription: - - "_L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta, - In questa posta, fin che habbia ą sua posta - Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta._" - -Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans, -famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other great scholars, especially -the renowned physician and anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was -bred and born there. - -4th November, 1644. After a little riding, we descended toward the Lake -of Bolsena, which being above twenty miles in circuit, yields from hence -a most incomparable prospect. Near the middle of it are two small -islands, in one of which is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where -those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it _Tarquiniensis -Lacus_, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they did not -appear to us. The lake is environed with mountains, at one of whose sides -we passed toward the town Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those -times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. -Christiana's church, the urn, altar, and jasper columns. - -After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood heretofore sacred to -Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head of the Falisci, a famous people -in old time, and heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, -as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St. -Flavian's church with this epitaph: - - "_Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est._" - -Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and inquire where the -best wine was, and there write _Est_, the man found some so good that he -wrote _Est, Est_, upon the vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of -it, died. - -[Sidenote: VITERBO] - -From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant champaign to Viterbo, -which presents itself with much state afar off, in regard of her many -lofty pinnacles and towers; neither does it deceive our expectation; for -it is exceedingly beautified with public fountains, especially that at -the entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare figures, -and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing -waters. There are many Popes buried in this city, and in the palace is -this odd inscription: - - "_Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc - antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi - Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patrię - monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V._" - -Under it: - - "_Sum Osiris Rex Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe._" - - "_Sum Osiris Rex qui ab Itala in Gigantes exercitus veni, vidi, et - vici._" - - "_Sum Osiris Rex qui terrarum pacata Italiam decem a'nos quorum - inventor fui._" - -Near the town is a sulphurous fountain, which continually boils. After -dinner we took horse by the new way of Capranica, and so passing near -Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at -which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon allayed by so -violent a shower, which fell just as we were contemplating that proud -Mistress of the world, and descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we -entered), that before we got into the city I was wet to the skin. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -I came to Rome on the 4th of November, 1644, about five at night; and -being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on -horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a -Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having -bargained with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good fire to -be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet. The next -morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted -with several persons who had long lived at Rome. I was especially -recommended to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his Order -for the English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, -religion, and humanity; also to Mr. Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to -our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young priest, who afterward came over -to our church; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs, physicians who had dependence on -Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet; Father Courtney, the -chief of the Jesuits in the English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother -to the Marquis of Worcester; and some others, from whom I received -instructions how to behave in town, with directions to masters and books -to take in search of the antiquities, churches, collections, etc. -Accordingly, the next day, November 6th, I began to be very -pragmatical.[23] - - [Footnote 23: The sense in which Evelyn uses this word is that of - its old signification, as being very active and full of business, - setting to work systematically with what he came upon, namely, to - view the antiquities and beauties of Rome.] - -In the first place, our sights-man (for so they name certain persons here -who get their living by leading strangers about to see the city) went to -the Palace Farnese, a magnificent square structure, built by Michael -Angelo, of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner, and when -architecture was but newly recovered from the Gothic barbarity. The court -is square and terraced, having two pairs of stairs which lead to the -upper rooms, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine -Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and -well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment -than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed. -Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscśro, representing the -fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a -pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent -of ground backward. The great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, -furnished with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a -Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration. -Here we were shown the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos, replete with -innumerable collections; but the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at -this time see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with -astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues of Hercules and -Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and indeed by all antiquity, as two -of the most rare pieces in the world; there likewise stands a modern -statue of Hercules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second -court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and -never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of Amphion and Dirce, represented -in five figures, exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white -marble, the contending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and -Taurisco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and -remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world -for its antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and -busts. At the entrance of this stately palace stand two rare and vast -fountains of garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus's -Baths. Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the FRESCO in their -coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we visited the palace -of Signor Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especially -the Adonis of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have -purchased, if a great price would have been taken for it. - -We went into the CAMPO VACCINO, by the ruins of the Temple of Peace, -built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought to be the largest as well as the -most richly furnished of all the Roman dedicated places: it is now a heap -rather than a temple, yet the roof and _volto_ continue firm, showing it -to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. This goodly structure -was, none knows how, consumed by fire the very night, by all computation, -that our blessed Savior was born. - -From hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated himself -for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake, or vorago. -Near this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed -to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus; the work -of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave is excellent, full of -sacrificing utensils. There are three other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite -to these are the oratories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, -heretofore the Temples of Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a tribunal, -or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before it are brass, -and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie -the bodies of those two martyrs; and in a chapel on the right hand is a -rare painting of Cavaliere Baglioni. - -We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a -range of most stately columns; the inscription cut in the architrave -shows it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair -church, and has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St. -Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was once placed a -military column, supposed to be set in the center of the city, from -whence they used to compute the distance of all the cities and places of -note under the dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are -likewise brazen gates and a noble front; just opposite we saw the heaps -and ruins of Cicero's palace. Hence we went toward Mons Capitolinus, at -the foot of which stands the arch of Septimus Severus, full and entire, -save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up with -ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched with sculpture and -trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial and naval battles -here graven, is seen the Roman Aries (the battering-ram); and this was -the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we climbed -by very broad steps, is built about a square court, at the right hand of -which, going up from Campo Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the -statue of Tiber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing -Rome; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius, casting water -into a most ample concha. The front of this court is crowned with an -excellent fabric containing the Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal -Notary sits, and others. In one of the halls they show the statues of -Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To this joins a -handsome tower, the whole faciata adorned with noble statues, both on the -outside and on the battlements, ascended by a double pair of stairs, and -a stately Posario. - -In the center of the court stands that incomparable horse bearing the -Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian metal, placed -on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now -extant, antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a colossean -magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending stairs -are set two horses of white marble governed by two naked slaves, taken to -be Castor and Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade, -the trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and -instructive. At the foot of the steps toward the left hand is that -Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, mentioned to have been -formerly set in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand, is the palace of the -Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the -city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them), -of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico -within, are the statues of Augustus Cęsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned -Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a -smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head -of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand, the thumb -whereof is at least an ell long, and yet proportionable; but the rest of -the _colosse_ is lost. In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion -fighting, as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued; likewise -the Rape of the Sabines; two cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea; two -monstrous feet of a _colosse_ of Apollo; the Sepulchre of Agrippina; and -the standard, or antique measure of the Roman foot. Ascending by the -steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz, the -triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity -and rareness of the work, I caused my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, to -copy. There are also two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the -Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas bound -to a tree; all of them excellent and antique. Above in the lobby are -inserted into the walls those ancient laws, on brass, called the Twelve -Tables; a fair Madonna of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall; near -which are the archives, full of ancient records. - -In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe -d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In -another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, -set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent -masters, representing the actions of M. Scęvola, Horatius Cocles, etc. -The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried -with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or -_balduquino_ of crimson velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely -painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of brass, -with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn -out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also -holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the -names of the ancient Consuls, Prętors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by -the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing -Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished with -velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In -the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, a -Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incomparable work, six other -statues; and, over the chimney, a very rare basso-relievo, and other -figures. In a little lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, -a Bacchus very antique, _bustoes_ of Pan and Mercury, with other old -heads. All these noble statues, etc., belong to the city, and cannot be -disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but are preserved -for the honor of the place, though great sums have been offered for them -by divers Princes, lovers of art, and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, -certainly one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now built -by the design of the famous M. Angelo. - -Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than 100 marble -steps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare knees, but -to see those two famous statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed -there out of his baths. In this church is a Madonna, reported to be -painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the print of a foot, -which they affirm to have been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of -St. Angelo. Here the feast of our Blessed Savior's nativity being yearly -celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation. -Having viewed the Palace and fountain, at the other side of the stairs, -we returned weary to our lodgings. - -On the 7th of November, we went again near the Capitol, toward the -Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the Tiber. Thence, -descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, -they showed us a chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of -it bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the church gushes a -fountain, which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having -converted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to make them -Christians. The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We then walked -about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the Circus Maximus, -capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into -gardens. Then by the _Forum Boarium_, where they have a tradition that -Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his temple remaining. The Temple of -Janus Quadrifrons, having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on -each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and pretty entire -antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now toward -the Tiber, we went into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 -persons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew; the -architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to none. It is -now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman -families. The people were now generally busy in erecting temporary -triumphs and arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his -Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani, among which the Jews -also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the -Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's -architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an -object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the -end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and -void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the _volto_ -whereof was newly painted _į fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro -Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished -with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of -worthy collections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts; but, above all, an -Egyptian Osiris, remarkable for its unknown material and antiquity. In -one of the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the -original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy, little inferior -to the prototype; a table, in my judgment, superior to anything I had -seen in Rome. In the court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having -divers hieroglyphics cut on it. - -8th November, 1644. We visited the Jesuits' Church, the front whereof is -esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design of Jacomo della Porta -and the famous Vignola. In this church lies the body of their renowned -Ignatius Loyola, an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the -right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal Bellarmine. Here -Father Kircher (professor of Mathematics and the oriental tongues) showed -us many singular courtesies, leading us into their refectory, -dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round -with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their -pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch -patience, he showed us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical -experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of -them since published by himself, or his industrious scholar, Schotti. - -Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de Medicis, which was an -house of the Duke of Florence near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons -Pincius, having a fine prospect toward the Campo Marzo. It is a -magnificent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and a -portico supported with columns toward the gardens, with two huge lions, -of marble, at the end of the balustrade. The whole outside of the -_facciata_ is incrusted with antique and rare basso-relievos and statues. -Descending into the garden is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of -brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of fine -statues, among which the Sabines, antique and singularly rare. In the -arcade near this stand twenty-four statues of great price, and hard by is -a mount planted with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly -fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white marble, -covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, and other perennial greens, -divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. At a little distance -are those famed statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large -as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed among the -best pieces of work in the world for the passions they express, and all -other perfections of that stupendous art. There is likewise in this -garden a fair obelisk, full of hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain -before the front casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is -received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the great -horse every morning; which gave me much diversion from the terrace of my -own chamber, where I could see all their motions. This evening, I was -invited to hear rare music at the Chiesa Nova; the black marble pillars -within led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, their -founder; they being of the oratory of secular priests, under no vow. -There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo -Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of -the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, -and others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many -chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cęsar Baronius, the great -annalist. Through this, we went into the _sacristia_, where, the tapers -being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of -eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace, -that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian so well and so -intelligently spoken. This course it seems they frequently use, to bring -their scholars to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their -action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England. This -being finished, began their _motettos_, which in a lofty cupola richly -painted, were sung by eunuchs, and other rare voices, accompanied by -theorbos, harpsichords, and viols, so that we were even ravished with the -entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by Cortona, and has in -it two figures in the niches, and the church stands in one of the most -stately streets of Rome. - -10th November, 1644. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where was -formerly the _Viridarium_ of the poet, Sallust. The house is very -magnificent, and the extent of the ground exceedingly large, considering -that it is in a city; in every quarter of the garden are antique statues, -and walks planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house of -retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a particular -ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness and smoothness of the -excellent pargeting was a thing I much observed, being almost as even and -polished, as if it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the -city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a -Vulcan, the other a Nativity; there is a German clock full of rare and -extraordinary motions; and, in a little room below are many precious -marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental -alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area, -environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to -preserve their oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are -properly called _testę_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous -statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the -rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed through almost all -Europe, both in stone and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of -porphyry, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's body -flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble, as it was found -in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes; it lay in a -chest, or coffin, lined with black velvet, and one of the arms being -broken, you may see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire. -The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white, the work of -Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innumerable small brass figures, and -other curiosities. But what some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is -a very rich bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much -glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid -wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and antique heads, -onyxes, agates, and cornelians, esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. -Here are also divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides -pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo--a conceited chair to -sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, and pieces of wood to -draw out longer or shorter. - -From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study, who very -courteously showed us such a collection of rare medals as is hardly to be -paralleled; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian -curiosities, and things of nature. - -From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore called Mons Quirinalis, -where we saw those two rare horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and -Praxiteles, as they were sent to Nero (by Tiridates King) out of Armenia. -They were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sextus V., by whom I -suppose their injuries were repaired, and are governed by four naked -slaves, like those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble -fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for building and -beauty to be seen in any city of Europe. Opposite to these statues is the -Pope's summer palace, built by Gregory XIII.; and, in my opinion, it is, -for largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous in Rome, -having a stately portico which leads round the court under columns, in -the centre of which there runs a beautiful fountain. The chapel is -incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can be more rich, -or glorious, nor are the other ornaments and movables about it at all -inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and others. The garden, which -is called the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation of that of the -Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its exquisite fountains, -close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted about with -venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water-music, aviaries, and other -rarities. - -12th November, 1644. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whose ruins testify the -vastness of the original foundation and magnificence; by what M. Angelo -took from the ornaments about it, 'tis said he restored the then almost -lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labor of -the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great persecutions. -The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of these ruinous -cupolas, and is in the form of an urn with a cover. - -Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise called _Fons -Felix_; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses -striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children -drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly -magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an -aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Pręneste, as the -inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about -with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, -very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's -corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were the -gardens of Sallust. The faciąta of this church is noble, the _soffito_ -within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, -by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite -work, from whose marble steps you descend under ground to the repository -of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is the work of Jacomo -Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine Nuns. - -Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. In -this church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory XV., after the signal victory -of the Emperor at Prague; the standards then taken still hang up, and the -impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms, _Extirpentur_. I -observed that the high altar was much frequented for an image of the -Virgin. It has some rare statues, as Paul ravished into the third heaven, -by Fiamingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent toward -Dioclesian's Baths, never satisfied with contemplating that immense pile, -in building which 150,000 Christians were destined to labor fourteen -years, and were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthusians, -called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of M. Angelo, and the -cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. - -Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone built on the -Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park full of fountains, -especially that which salutes us at the front; stews for fish; the -cypress walks are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and -other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The -citron trees are uncommonly large. In the palace joining to it are -innumerable collections of value. Returning, we stepped into St. Agnes -church, where there is a tribunal of antique mosaic, and on the altar a -most rich ciborio of brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental -alabaster. The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they -showed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as -the relievo intimates by the drunken emblems and instruments wrought upon -it. The altar is of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had -the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses before the Monte -Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the most glorious sights for state and -magnificence that any city can show a traveler. We returned by Porta Pia, -and the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the -wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive. - -Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street but very precipitous, -till we came to the four fountains of Lepidus, built at the abutments of -four stately ways, making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the -fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under very large niches -of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The church of St. Carlo is -a singular fabric for neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white -stone; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church of a -structure nothing less admirable. - -Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the Esqueline Mountain, -which gives it a most conspicuous face to the street at a great distance. -The design is mixed partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that -the Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built 300 years -since. The first pavement is rare and antique; so is the portico built by -P. P. Eugenius II. The _ciborio_ is the work of Paris Romano, and the -tribunal of Mosaic. - -We were showed in the church a _concha_ of porphyry, wherein they say -Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one of the most famous of the seven -Roman Churches, and is, in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the -most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, are -the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of Sextus was designed by -Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare great statues, and some good pieces -of painting; and here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents' -bodies slain by Herod: as also that renowned tabernacle of metal, gilt, -sustained by four angels, holding as many tapers, placed on the altar. In -this chapel is the statue of Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of -most of his famous acts, in Parian marble; but that of P. Paulus, which -we next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination glorious, -and above description. It is so encircled with agates, and other most -precious materials, as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The -basso-relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed -with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on _lapis lazuli_. The altar -is a most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the cupola painted -by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite -sculptures. There is a most sumptuous _sacristia_; and the piece over the -altar was by the hand of St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath -here likewise built two other altars; under the one lie the bones of the -Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the statue of this Pope, -and the head of the Congo Ambassador, who was converted at Rome, and died -here. In a third chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of -Platina, and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., the -ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V., before -mentioned, was showed us part of the crib in which Christ was swaddled -at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of Pius V.; and going out at the -further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the -portico, is this late inscription: "_Cardinal Antonio Barberino -Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, -laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiā, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, -Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani č suis ędibus huc transtulit et -ornavit, 1632_." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and -stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an -ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the -plinth of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal; at the -pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the obelisk taken -from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico -Fontana, with this epigraph: "_Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto -advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures -confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem -restitutum Salutiferę Cruci feliciłs hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, -Pont. III_"; and so we came weary to our lodgings. - -At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, in which is a -well, filled with the blood and bones of several martyrs, but grated over -with iron, and visited by many devotees. Near this stands the church of -her sister, S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a -little obscure place, canceled in with iron work, is the pillar, or -stump, at which they relate our Blessed Savior was scourged, being full -of bloody spots, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their -chaplets, and convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, -besides a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous Cardinal -Cajetan, an excellent piece; and here they hold that St. Peter said his -first mass at Rome, with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he -having been first lodged in this house, as they compute about the -forty-fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many relics, or -rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna did next invite -us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet -remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. -In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _į -fresco_ on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the -Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. - -14th November, 1644. We passed again through the stately Capitol and -Campo Vaccino toward the Amphitheater of Vespasian, but first stayed to -look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in honor -of his victory at Jerusalem; on the left hand whereof he is represented -drawn in a chariot with four horses abreast; on the right hand, or side -of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso-relievo as big as -the life (and in one entire marble) the Ark of the Covenant, on which -stands the seven-branched candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the -two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as they -are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles; before this, go many -crowned and laureated figures, and twelve Roman _fasces_ with other -sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before had; and therefore, -for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter, Carlo, to -copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the noblest, best -understood _composita_; and the inscription is this, in capital letters: - - S. P. Q. R. - D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO. - -Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus fell out -of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himself to pieces on a flint. -Near this is a marble monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory -of the Pope's return from Avignon. Being now passed the ruins of -Meta-Sudante (which stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there -once stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh the -gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, -begun by Vespasian, and finished by that excellent prince, Titus. It is -830 Roman palms in length (_i.e._ 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, -with caves for the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of -dogs; the whole oval periphery 2888-4/7 palms, and capable of containing -87,000 spectators with ease and all accommodation: the three rows of -circles are yet entire; the first was for the senators, the middle for -the nobility, the third for the people. At the dedication of this place -were 5,000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the feast -lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It was built of Tiburtine -stone, a vast height, with the five orders of architecture, by 30,000 -captive Jews. It is without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned -thick with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of the -stones were carried away to repair the city walls and build the Farnesian -palace. That which still appears most admirable is, the contrivance of -the porticos, vaults, and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well -deserves this distich of the poet: - - "_Omnis Cęsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro; - Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus._" - -Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, -which is erected on the steps, or stages, very lofty at one of its sides, -or ranges, within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermit. I -ascended to the very top of it with wonderful admiration. - -The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-Sudante, before -mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia, on one side Monte Celio, -and is perfectly entire, erected by the people in memory of his victory -over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front is this -inscription: - - IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO - P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. - QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS - MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO - TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS - FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS - REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS - ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. - -Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where are many privileged -altars, and there they showed us an arm of that saint, and other relics. -Before this church stands a very noble portico. - -15th November, 1644. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th I -went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines. - -17th November, 1644. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample garden -on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city walls, circumscribed by -another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses; which makes it -appear at a distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of -delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace; but the entrance of -the garden presents us with a very glorious fabric, or rather door-case, -adorned with divers excellent marble statues. This garden abounded with -all sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry -inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it a -vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, etc., and divers strange -beasts, deer, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and represents, among -other devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers, -etc.; which is effected by changing the heads of the fountains. The -groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. The four sphinxes -are very antique, and worthy observation. To this is a volary, full of -curious birds. The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect -is excellent toward Rome, and the environing hills, covered as they now -are with snow, which indeed commonly continues even a great part of the -summer, affording sweet refreshment. Round the house is a baluster of -white marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with a multitude -of statues. The walls of the house are covered with antique incrustations -of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, etc. The -cornices above consist of fruitages and festoons, between which are -niches furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very roof. -In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues of Consuls, etc., -with two pieces of field artillery upon carriages, (a mode much practiced -in Italy before the great men's houses) which they look on as a piece of -state more than defense. In the first hall within, are the twelve Roman -Emperors, of excellent marble; between them stand porphyry columns, and -other precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urns of oriental -alabaster. Tables of pietra-commessa: and here is that renowned Diana -which Pompey worshiped, of eastern marble: the most incomparable Seneca -of touch, bleeding in an huge vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of -his blood; the so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of -stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is -observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the -statuary plainly stupendous. There is a multitude of rare pictures of -infinite value, by the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two -exquisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber, are divers -sorts of instruments of music: among other toys that of a satyr, which so -artificially expressed a human voice, with the motion of eyes and head, -that it might easily afright one who was not prepared for that most -extravagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches fast any one -who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir out, by certain springs -concealed in the arms and back thereof, which at sitting down surprises a -man on the sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a true -treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also considerable, composed -by the position of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication -of things resembling divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a -rare clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is -to be seen in this Paradise. - -The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the morning, I saw the -ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat; this -was the first time I had seen his Holiness _in pontificalibus_. After the -Cardinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony was in the -Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested with most pompous -rites. - -19th November, 1644. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and -incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and -perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The -largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it -affords a noble prospect of the church, not crowded up, as for the most -part is the case in other places where great churches are erected. In -this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river rather than a stream -which, ascending a good height, breaks upon a round emboss of marble into -millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise; -I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw. - -Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius -Augustus to Julius Cęsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; -but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast -cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, architect to -Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire square stone without -hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two feet, but comprehending the base and -all it is 108 feet high, and rests on four lions of gilded copper, so as -you may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the pedestal. - -Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven - - DIVO CAES. DIVI - IVLII F. AVGVSTO - TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. - F. AVGVS. SACRVM. - -It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that Sextus V. -inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is to be read by good eyes: - - SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI - SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - CONSECRAVIT. - E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM - ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. - I. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI. - -On the four faces of the base below: - - 1. CHRISTVS VINCIT. - CHRISTVS REGNAT. - CHRISTVS IMPERAT. - CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO - PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. - - 2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM - IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM - AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA - OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT - AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II. - - 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI - FVGITE PARTES - ADVERSAE - VINCIT LEO - DE TRIBV IVDA. - - 4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - CRVCI INVICTAE - OBELISCVM VATICANVM - AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE - EXPIATVM IVSTIVS - ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT - AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. - -A little lower: - - DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS - TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. - -It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975 -crowns, the labor of 907 men, and 75 horses: this being the first of the -four Egyptian obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the forty-two brought -to the city out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by -the Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes. Some coaches stood before the -steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to Cardinal Medici, had all -the metal work of massy silver, viz, the bow behind and other places. The -coaches at Rome, as well as covered wagons also much in use, are -generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the _facciata_ of -the church is an ample pavement. The church was first begun by St. -Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on a foundation, as they give out, of -Constantine the Great, who, in honor of the Apostles, carried twelve -baskets full of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in hand, -to which all his successors have contributed more or less. - -The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied piece of -architecture in the world; to this we went up by four steps of marble. -The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters; the _volto_ within is -the richest possible, and overlaid with gold. Between the five large -anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many gates -of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the Florentine, full of -cast figures and histories in a deep relievo. Over this runs a terrace of -like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his -Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico are two -_campaniles_, or towers, whereof there was but one perfected, of -admirable art. On the top of all, runs a balustrade which edges it quite -round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the twelve -Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than -the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the _volto_, -or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses overlaid with gold in -nature of a deep basso-relievo, _ą l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in -form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the -_internodium_ of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone -and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of the Pantheon -(which was the largest among the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any -other known. The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite -Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full -of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, exposed to the air, is covered -with lead, with great ribs of metal double gilt (as are also the ten -other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which -gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of the city. On the -summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving -thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name among other -travelers. Lastly, is the Cross, the access to which is between the -leaden covering and the stone convex, or arch-work; a most truly -astonishing piece of art! On the battlements of the church, also all -overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so -many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses -inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the -vast reparations which continually employ them. - -Having seen this, we descended into the body of the church, full of -collateral chapels and large oratories, most of them exceeding the size -of ordinary churches; but the principal are four incrusted with most -precious marbles and stones of various colors, adorned with an infinity -of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics. The -altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could not pass without -particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The chapel of Gregory -XIII., where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the -center of the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement -VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered by Pope Urban VIII.; with -that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought -from the Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly -channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little _puti_ birds -and bees (the arms of the _Barberini_), sustaining a _baldacchino_ of the -same metal. The four columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, -all over richly gilt; this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about -it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond -all that man's industry has produced of the kind; it is the work of -Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a -little before my coming to the city, gave a public opera (for so they -call shows of that kind), wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, -invented the engines, composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the -theater. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which, -with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed four exquisite -statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica, -made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the -miraculous _Sudarium_ indued with the picture of our Savior's face, with -this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicę Sudario exceptam ut loci -majestas decentčr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum -et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit_." - -Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by -Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a -most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "_Longini Lanceam quam -Innocentius VIII. ą Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. -statuā appositā, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium -transtulit_." - -The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman, St. -Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great; the work of Boggi, an -excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a great piece of the pretended -wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected -miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with -this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix č Calvario in -Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. č Sissorianā Basilicā desumptam, -additis arā et statuā, hģc in Vaticano collocavit_." - -The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the -statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the -other; above is preserved the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It -is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in -a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found -himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this: - - "_St. Andreę caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiā in Vaticanum asportandum - curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisque - statuę ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._" - -The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also -the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and -services to be seen in the Sacristy, which they showed us. Under the high -altar is an ample grot inlaid with _pietra-commessa_, wherein half of the -bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang divers great -lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. About this and -contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, in form of a theater, of -black marble. Toward the left, as you go out of the church by the -portico, a little beneath the high altar, is an old brass statue of St. -Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub -their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a -statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place, stands a column grated -about with iron, whereon they report that our Blessed Savior was often -wont to lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary -under the cupola there are eight wreathed columns brought from the Temple -of Solomon. In another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or, -as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But among all the chapels the -one most glorious has for an altar-piece a Madonna bearing a dead Christ -on her knees, in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper -end of the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially that of -Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and in many other places in the church, are -confession seats, for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, -Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, etc., as it is -written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are still at -confessions some of all nations. Toward the lower end of the church, and -on the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roof, is the -_depositum_ and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with -basso-relievos about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are -also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., etc. Among the exquisite pieces -in this sumptuous fabric is that of the ship with St. Peter held up from -sinking by our Savior; the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous -Giotto, who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced by the -Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to be passed over -without observation, which with the rest of the body and walls of the -whole church, are all inlaid with the richest of _pietra-commessa_, in -the most splendid colors of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, -porphyry, calcedon, etc., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming out -by the portico at which we entered, we were shown the Porta Santa, never -opened but at the year of jubilee. This glorious foundation hath -belonging to it thirty canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight -clerks beneficed, with innumerable chaplains, etc., a Cardinal being -always archpriest; the present Cardinal was Francisco Barberini, who also -styled himself Protector of the English, to whom he was indeed very -courteous. - -20th November, 1644. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral of -St. John di Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. This is a church of -extraordinary devotion, though, for outward form, not comparable to St. -Peter's, being of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathedral, -the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself, being formerly part -of the Great Constantine's palace, and, as it is said, his chamber where -by St. Silvester he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape, -having before the entrance eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each of -one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders, supporting lesser -columns of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the molding -whereof is excellently wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have -been the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohibited from -entering, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his head. -Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. -Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near -it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and -tables, especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in -fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a -tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the -Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope -John IV. The portico of the church is built of materials brought from -Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem. - -The next sight which attracted our attention, was a wonderful concourse -of people at their devotions before a place called _Scala Sancta_, to -which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those large -marble stairs, twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on -the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step; on which you may -perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate, which they affirm to -have been drops of our Blessed Savior, at the time he was so barbarously -misused by Herod's soldiers; for these stairs are reported to have been -translated hither from his palace in Jerusalem. At the top of them is a -chapel, whereat they enter (but we could not be permitted) by gates of -marble, being the same our Savior passed when he went out of Herod's -house. This they name the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, and over it we read this -epigraph: - - _Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus._ - -Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ painted (as they -say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life. Descending again, we saw -before the church the obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of admiration. -It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V., -in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or pedestal; at the -foot nine and a half one way, and eight the other. This pillar was first -brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from -thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammianus -Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King of Egypt. It was -transferred to this city by Constantine the son of the Great, and is full -of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, etc., -containing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book -which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse learning of -that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that brought it to Rome so -many hundred leagues, must needs have been of wonderful bigness and -strange fabric. The stone is one and entire, and (having been thrown -down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope, -Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but -solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciįtas: - - _Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum ą - patre suo motum diuq; Alexandrię jacentem, trecentorum remigum - impositum navi mirandę vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus - Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D._ - -On the second square: - - _Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianę fidei Vindex & Assertor - Obeliscum ab Ęgyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum - suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc - conditam eo decoraret monumento._ - -On the third: - - _Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiā temporum - calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altč demersum, - multā impensā extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, - formąq; pristinā accuratč vestitum, Cruci invictissimę dicavit anno - M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII._ - -On the fourth: - - _Constantinus per Crucem Victor ą Silvestro hģc Baptizatus Crucis - gloriam propagavit._ - -Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately public -fountain, with a statue of St. John in the middle of it), we visited His -Holiness's palace, being a little on the left hand, the design of -Fontana, architect to Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best -palaces in Rome; but not staying we entered the church of St. John di -Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learned -by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico: - - _Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali - Quņd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u] - Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris - Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt; - Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto - Nostra quņd hęc ędes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._ - -It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwelling it seems -hereabouts, on Mons Cęlius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately -tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church -that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars -of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made like large -chests for the easier removal in times of persecution; such an altar is -still the great one here preserved, as being that on which (they hold) -St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may -now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of -precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over which it -is painted _į fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by -most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns. -The _soffito_ is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the -porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a tabernacle on it all -of precious stones, the work of Targoni; on this is a _coena_ of plate, -the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value; the tables hanging -over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are four excellent columns -transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brass, double gilt, -about twelve feet in height; the walls between them are incrusted with -marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be filled -with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, -Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of -this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those -of the great Connestįbile Colonna. Out of this we came into the -_sacristia_, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of -the church is a flat stone supported by four pillars which they affirm -to have been the exact height of our Blessed Savior, and say they never -fitted any mortal man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter; -two columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his passion; the -stone on which they threw lots for his seamless vesture; and the pillar -on which the cock crowed, after Peter's denial; and, to omit no fine -thing, the just length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her -shoemaker affirmed! Here is a sumptuous cross, beset with precious -stones, containing some of the VERY wood of the holy cross itself; with -many other things of this sort: also numerous most magnificent monuments, -especially those of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I., -of copper; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V., Laurentius Valla, -etc., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, designed by M. Angelo; and the great -crucifix of Sermoneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of -Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so has done -many years; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte. The two -famous Oecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope -Simachus, Martin I., Stephen, etc. - -Leaving this venerable church (for in truth it has a certain majesty in -it), we passed through a fair and large hospital of good architecture, -having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We -then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P., begun -by M. Angelo; a St. Andrew, and the bath of St. Cecilia. In this church -are some rare paintings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Reni. -Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great -chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the _tribuna_ are excellent. - -Descending the Mons Cęlius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo -Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of -vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human -things does change from the most glorious and magnificent to the most -deformed and confused. We next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which -has a handsome front: then we passed by the place where Romulus and Remus -were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum, and so by the edge of the -Mons Palatinus; where we saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church -of St. Anacletus; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore capable of -containing a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, but now all one -entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden of pot herbs. -We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the -Chiesa Nova. - -21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliéro -Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a -choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of -polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique -basso-relievos about Rome, which this curious man had caused to be -designed in several folios: many fine medals; the stone which Pliny calls -Enhydros; it had plainly in it the quantity of half a spoonful of water, -of a yellow pebble color, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than -an amethyst, which yet he affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder -than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or anything at the -bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish yellow, more lustrous -than a diamond. He had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, -designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames; -also a number of choice designs and drawings. - -Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ęrarium Saturni, where yet remain some -ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro _in vinculis_, one of -the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of -great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of the seven -Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar. On the wall is a St. -Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek manner: but what I chiefly regarded -was, that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with -that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in white marble, -and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa, by the same incomparable -hand. To this church belongs a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters -grow two tall and very stately palm trees. Behind these, we walked a turn -among the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange and prodigious receptacles -for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now all in heaps. - -22d November, 1644. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all the State -Ecclesiastical, viz, the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John -di Laterano, which, standing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, -I saw pass in this manner:--First went a guard of Switzers to make way, -and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying lances. Next followed -those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, two and two; then the -Cardinal's mace bearers; the caudatari, on mules; the masters of their -horse; the Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic -officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to -the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapolitan horses, -white as snow, covered to the ground with trappings richly embroidered; -which is a service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples -and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite -beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed three rich -litters with mules, the litters empty; the master of the horse alone, -with his squires; five trumpeters; the _armerieri estra muros_; the -fiscal and consistorial advocates; _capellani_, _camerieri de honore_, -_cubiculari_ and chamberlains, called _secreti_. - -Then followed four other _camerieri_ with four caps of the -dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four -trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, -very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffiéri_ and pages; the -secretaries of the _chancellaria_, _abbreviatori-accoliti_ in their long -robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _rōti_ and -master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes, -and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other -nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on -horseback; fourteen drums belonging to the Capitol; the marshals with -their staves; the two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of -crimson damask; the knight-gonfalonier and prior of the R. R., in velvet -toques; six of his Holiness's mace bearers; then the captain, or -governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer; the governor -of the city; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers, the -masters of the ceremonies; the cross bearer on horseback, with two -priests at each hand on foot; pages, footmen, and guards, in abundance. -Then came the Pope himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of -crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he -went he held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their -knees, or looking out of their windows and houses, with loud _vivas_ and -acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by -the master of his chamber, cup bearer, secretary, and physician; then -came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons, -Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct -habits, some in red, others in green flat hats with tassels, all on -gallant mules richly trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in -great state and multitudes; after them, the apostolical protonotary, -auditor, treasurer, and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear -guard, two pages of arms in helmets with feathers, and carrying lances; -two captains; the pontifical standard of the Church; the two _alfieri_, -or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armor and -carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and -people, made up the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano, I -could not see, by reason of the prodigious crowd; so I spent most of the -day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected -a few days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke of Parma, in -the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering -inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues -and abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they were but -temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, etc., painted and framed on the -sudden, but as to outward appearance, solid and very stately. The night -ended with fireworks. What I saw was that which was built before the -Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinita, and another, -before that of the French. The first appeared to be a mighty rock, -bearing the Pope's Arms, a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on -fire by one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet preserving -the figure both of the rock and statues a very long time; insomuch as it -was deemed ten thousand reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves -in order. That before the French Ambassador's Palace was a Diana drawn -in a chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other figures as large as the -life, which played with fire in the same manner. In the meantime, the -windows of the whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or -sconces, of several colored oiled paper, that the wind might not annoy -them; this rendered a most glorious show. Besides these, there were at -least twenty other fireworks of vast charge and rare art for their -invention before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals' Palaces, -especially that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of lights, -of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables which support the -standard pole. The streets were this night as light as day, full of -bonfires, cannon roaring, music playing, fountains running wine, in all -excess of joy and triumph. - -23d November, 1644. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front -whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments -being of rich marble. It has within a noble portico and court, sustained -by stately columns, as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of -which are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught as at -the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kircher upon a part of -Euclid, which he expounded. To this joins a glorious and ample church for -the students; a second is not fully finished; and there are two noble -libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and historian, Famianus -Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterward -bibliothecary of the Vatican library), who showed us one of the best -collections of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if they -were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses, -sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in -the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much -esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value. This gentleman not -long since purchased land in the kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging -the ground, to find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as to -be much more worth than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa -Nova, where was excellent music; but, before that began, the courteous -fathers led me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most -beautiful convent. - -28th November, 1644. I went to see the garden and house of the -Aldobrandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, -magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the most considerable about the -city. It has four fronts, and a noble piazza before it. Within the -courts, under arches supported by marble columns, are many excellent -statues. Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of white -marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendous art. For -paintings, our Savior's Head, by Correggio; several pieces of Raphael, -some of which are small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two -admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil; so is the Psyche and Cupid; -the head of St. John, borne by Herodias; two heads of Albert Durer, very -exquisite. We were shown here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence work -in stone. In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered with -citron trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the stone work entirely; -and, toward the street, at a back gate, the port is so handsomely clothed -with ivy as much pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique -bassi-relievi: two especially are placed on the ground, representing -armor, and other military furniture of the Romans; beside these, stand -about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and urns. Above all for -antiquity and curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now -known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting representing the -Roman _Sponsalia_, or celebration of their marriage, judged to be 1,400 -years old, yet are the colors very lively, and the design very entire, -though found deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake only, -it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, because this being on a wall -in a kind of banqueting house in the garden, could not be removed, but -passes with the inheritance. - -29th November, 1644. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being -near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections -that adorn it, especially the bassi-relievi and antique friezes inserted -about the stone work of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the -portico, is a rare piece; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the hall. We -were now led into those rooms above we could not see before, full of -incomparable statues and antiquities; above all, and haply preferable to -any in the world, are the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture -with each other's arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber is -the Gladiator, whetting a knife; but the Venus is without parallel, being -the masterpiece of one whose name you see graven under it in old Greek -characters; nothing in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To -this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe; some -relievi incrusted on the palace-walls; and an antique _vas_ of marble, -near six feet high. Among the pictures may be mentioned the Magdalen and -St. Peter, weeping. I pass over the cabinets and tables of _pietra -commessa_, being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of the -chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so many varieties, as to -turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a couch. I had another walk in -the garden, where are two huge vases, or baths of stone. - -I went further up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at Monte Cavallo, where -I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of the most -magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually -allowed 2,000 _scudi_ for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of -myrtle above a man's height; others of laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and -juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; a crypt, of which the laver, -or basin, is of one vast, entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows -a plentiful cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich -Mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish pond, and an ample bath. From -hence, we went to taste some rare Greco; and so home. - -Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the most -part, till the 6th of December; and, during this time, I entertained one -Signor Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. - -The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat, -to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but -famous only for the painting _į fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico -toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the -hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters -designing and copying after it, being esteemed one of the rarest pieces -of that art in the world; and with great reason. I must not omit that -incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in -the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it from the air, -being a most lively painting. There are likewise excellent things of -Baldassare, and others. - -Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairly built, -with a stately court and fountain. - -Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the _Taberna Meritoria_, -where the old Roman soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they -ever after wore. The high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of -porphyry: here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the -Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this church was the -first that was dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite piazza is -a very sumptuous fountain. - -12th December, 1644. I went again to St. Peter's to see the chapels, -churches, and grots under the whole church (like our St. Faith's under -Paul's), in which lie interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; -among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest -of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor, -St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas ą Becket; a shoulder of St. -Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more -bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their -wives; too long to particularize. - -Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo Santo, the earth -consisting of several ship-loads of mold, transported from Jerusalem, -which consumes a carcass in twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare -hospital, where once was Nero's circus; the next to this is the -Inquisition-house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was not -curious to see. To this joins His Holiness's Horseguards. - -On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the many -extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their churches, at midnight -masses and sermons. I walked from church to church the whole night in -admiration at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the friars had -with much industry and craft set out, to catch the devout women and -superstitious sort of people, who never parted without dropping some -money into a vessel set on purpose; but especially observable was the -puppetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. I -thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare; by which time it was -morning. On Christmas-day his Holiness sang mass, the artillery of St. -Angelo went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord. - -29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner, -being their great feast of Thomas [ą Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in -their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by -their alumni before the Cardinals. - -January, 1645. We saw pass the new officers of the people of Rome; -especially, for their noble habits were most conspicuous, the three -Consuls, now called Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, -having been sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We ended -the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova. - -6th January, 1645. Was the ceremony of our Savior's baptism in the Church -of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a great procession, del Bambino, -as they call it, where were all the magistrates, and a wonderful -concourse of people. - -7th January, 1645. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who -are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is with so much -malice in their countenances, spitting, humming, coughing, and motion, -that it is almost impossible they should hear a word from the preacher. A -conversion is very rare. - -14th January, 1645. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at -St. John Laterano. - -15th January, 1645. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have -portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry them, walked in -procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shown. - -I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a suburb by themselves; -being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed -by the Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being environed -with walls, they are locked up every night. In this place remains yet -part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had been a palace of -theirs for the ambassador of their nation, when their country was subject -to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a private house, I -found a world of people in a chamber: by and by came an old man, who -prepared and laid in order divers instruments brought by a little child -of about seven years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin; -the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the half. Then they -burnt some incense in a censer, which perfumed the room all the while the -ceremony was performing. In the basin was a little cap made of white -paper like a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the finger: also a paper of -a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole; a small instrument of silver, -cleft in the middle at one end, to take up the prepuce withal; a fine -linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in order, the women brought the -infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbi, -who carried and presented it before an altar, or cupboard, dressed up, on -which lay the five Books of Moses, and the Commandments, a little -unrolled. Before this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, -he waved the child to and fro awhile; then he delivered it to another -Rabbi, who sat all this time upon a table. While the ceremony was -performing, all the company fell singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous -tone, waving themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all their -devotions.--The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, live only upon brokage -and usury, very poor and despicable, beyond what they are in other -territories of Princes where they are permitted. - -18th January, 1645. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where -he for the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope -Symmachus, and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his -successors. That part of it added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This -leads us into divers terraces arched _sub dio_, painted by Raphael with -the histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists come from all parts -of Europe to make their studies from these designs. The foliage and -grotesque about some of the compartments are admirable. In another room -are represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in the world, -in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The stairs which ascend out of -St. Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contrived for ease; -these lead into the hall of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to -the roof, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colors and -works. So is also the pavement inlaid work; but what exceeds description -is, the _volta_, or roof itself, which is so exquisitely painted, that it -is almost impossible for the skillfullest eyes to discern whether it be -the work of the pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone. The -_Rota dentata_, in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one -goes out, the _Setella_, etc., are things of art incomparable. Certainly -this is one of the most superb and royal apartments in the world, much -too beautiful for a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink -and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of St. -Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior. - -Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapel, called the -Sąla del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the -Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered -by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry -IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, "_Coligni et sociorum -cędes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_." - -There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed: - - "_Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum - fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et ą senatu perhonorificč - susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali pręlio victo captoq; - Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam - pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio - restituta MCLXXVIII._"[24] - - [Footnote 24: Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and - violence of the Emperor Frederick I., took shelter at Venice, - where he was acknowledged, and most honorably received by the - Senate. The Emperor's son, Otho, being conquered and taken in - a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became a - suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus - his dignity was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the - Republic of Venice, MCLXXVIII.] - -This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. had -caused it to be blotted out during the difference between him and that -State; but it was now restored and refreshed by his successor, to the -great honor of the Venetians. The Battle of Lepanto is another fair -piece here. - -Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much celebrated for the Last -Judgment painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco, -upon a dead wall at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high -altar, of a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude -of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof also is full of rare -work. Hence, we went into the _sacristia_ where were showed all the most -precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the chapel. One priestly -cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, -and is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the Pope's -pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich jewels embroidered on -the instep, covered with crimson velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, -divers miters, crosiers, etc., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, -and pearl, to a very great value; a very large cross, carved (as they -affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous utensils of crystal, gold, -agate, amber, and other costly materials for the altar. - -We then went into those chambers painted with the Histories of the -burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix; the victory of -Constantine over Maxentius; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison; all by -Julio Romano, and are therefore called the Painters' Academy, because you -always find some young men or other designing from them: a civility which -is not refused in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best -masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many -excellent men in that profession. - -The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with an -ample landscape of Paul Bril's. - -We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides were painted with -views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in Italy, rarely -done, and upon the roof the chief Acts of the Roman Church since St. -Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magnificent -galleries in Europe.--Out of this we came into the Consistory, a noble -room, the _volta_ painted in grotesque, as I remember. At the upper end, -is an elevated throne and a baldachin, or canopy of state, for his -Holiness, over it. - -From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, than the -French Kings at the Louvre), but only of bare walls, we were brought into -the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poor people, to each of -whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a _mezzo grosse_. I -believe they were in number near 1,500 or 2,000 persons. - -This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and beautified of any in -the world; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, looking into a most -pleasant garden. The walls and roof are painted, not with antiques and -grotesques, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, diagrams, -and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and industry of -famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant. There were -likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers -of the church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the -entrance, viz, Hippolytus and Aristides. The General Councils are -painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the books, they are all -shut up in presses of wainscot, and not exposed on shelves to the open -air, nor are the most precious mixed among the more ordinary, which are -showed to the curious only; such are those two Virgils written on -parchment, of more than a thousand years old; the like, a Terence; the -"Acts of the Apostles" in golden capital letters; Petrarch's "Epigrams," -written with his own hand; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the -ancient manner, from whence they were first called "_Volumina_", with the -Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after, the book which our -Henry VIII. writ against Luther.[25] - - [Footnote 25: This very book, by one of those curious chances that - occasionally happen, found its way into England some forty years - ago, and was seen by the Editor of the early edition of this - "Diary." It may be worth remarking that wherever, in the course of - it, the title of "Defender of the Faith" was subjoined to the name - of Henry, the Pope had drawn his pen through the title. The name of - the King occurred in his own handwriting both at the beginning and - end; and on the binding were the Royal Arms. Its possessor had - purchased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old bookstall.] - -The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the gallery of printed -books; then the gallery of the Duke of Urban's library, in which are MSS. -of remarkable miniature, and divers Chinese, Mexican, Samaritan, -Abyssinian, and other oriental books. - -In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the books taken -from Heidelberg, of which the learned Gruter, and other great scholars, -had been keepers. These walls and _volte_ are painted with -representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection -of the obelisks; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre at Mecca. - -Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, the -Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election; the whole -manner whereof was described to us. - -Hence we went into the Pope's Armory, under the library. Over the door is -this inscription: - - "URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS." - -I hardly believe any prince in Europe is able to show a more completely -furnished library of Mars, for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000 -complete for horse and foot, and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again -by the long gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair of -stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descending with an -evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or coach, may with ease -be drawn up; the sides of the vacuity are set with columns: those at -Amboise, on the Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but -nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the Vatican gardens, -called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court, we were -showed those incomparable statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of -Laocoon with his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one entire -Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat bigger than the life, the -work of those three celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and -Artemidorus, Rhodians; it was found among the ruins of Titus's baths, and -placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed before all pictures -and statues in the world; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld -anything of art approach it. Here are also those two famous images of -Nilus with the children playing about him, and that of Tiber; Romulus and -Remus with the Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the Venus and Cupid, rare -pieces; the Mercury; Cybel; Hercules; Apollo; Antinous: most of which -are, for defense against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot -doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz, the -Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mausoleum; -also a peacock of copper, supposed to have been part of Scipio's -monument. - -In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit of ground) are -many stately fountains, especially two casting water into antique lavers, -brought from Titus's baths; some fair grots and water-works, that noble -cascade where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inventions, -walks, terraces, meanders, fruit trees, and a most goodly prospect over -the greatest part of the city. One fountain under the gate I must not -omit, consisting of three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or -proboscides of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the -inscription: - - "_Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit? - Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam._" - -23d January, 1645. We went without the walls of the city to visit St. -Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own head after -Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church was founded by the great -Constantine; the main roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, -and the Mosaic work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient -story A^o 440; as is likewise that of the _facciata_. The gates are -brass, made at Constantinopole in 1070, as you may read by those Greek -verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in -breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of -whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Pręf. Urbis -V. S. I. reparavit_." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which -they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two -excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. -Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious Oriental marbles -about the high altar, where are also four excellent paintings, whereof -one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a -Bolognian lady, named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of -excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento -are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this venerable -church, as a part of St. Anna; the head of the Woman of Samaria; the -chain which bound St. Paul, and the _eculeus_ used in tormenting the -primitive Christians. The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a -mile from the walls of the city, separated from many buildings near it -except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, going -over the mountain or little rising, upon which story says a hundred -seventy and four thousand Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, -Dioclesian, and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's and St. -Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose -Tribuna is a very fair Mosaic work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as -they are called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas that -of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in the middle; in this -they show the pillar to which St. Paul was bound, when his head was cut -off, and from whence it made three prodigious leaps, where there -immediately broke out the three remaining fountains, which give -denomination to this church. The waters are reported to be medicinal: -over each is erected an altar and a chained ladle, for better tasting of -the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of -Guido. - -25th January, 1645. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some -certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the Major-Domo not -being within, I could not formerly obtain. In the hall stands that -triumphant Colosse of one of the family, upon three figures, a modern, -but rare piece. About it stood some Gladiators; and, at the entrance into -one of the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of AGE and YOUTH, -brought hither from St. Peter's to make room for the Longinus under the -cupola. Here was the statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a -most incomparable expression of Fury, cut in stone; and a table of -_pietra-commessa_, very curious. The next chamber was all painted _a -fresco_, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the ceiling, -which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian mode is, and not poor -plaster, as ours are; some of them most richly gilt. In a third room, -stood the famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of -Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo; the -sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard, black ophite stone, -taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated by the antiquaries: -likewise two tables of brass, containing divers old Roman laws. At -another side of this chamber, was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling -from her horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever the -artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Bacchanalia, with a most -curious Silenus. The fourth room was totally environed with statues; -especially observable was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking -backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old -Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of them looking on her -face in a glass, by M. Angelo; the other is painted by Caracci. I never -saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are -not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues; -most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Cęsars -and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of -that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, -the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe -above they showed us fine wrought plate, porcelain, mazers of beaten and -solid gold, set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; a treasure, -especially the workmanship considered, of inestimable value. This is all -the Duke of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare in its -kind than the complete service of the purest crystal, for the altar of -the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, etc., were all of -the rock, incomparably sculptured, with the holy story in deep Levati; -thus was also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flowerpots, the -largest and purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked on -this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in Rome. In another -part were presses furnished with antique arms, German clocks, perpetual -motions, watches, and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture -of Pope Eugenius; a St. Bernard; and a head of marble found long since, -supposed to be a true portrait of our Blessed Savior's face. - -Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours, -who had some intendency in an hospital built on the Via Triumphalis, -called Christ's Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where the -sick lay, was paved with various colored marbles, and the walls hung with -noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the middle is a stately cupola, -under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight -of the sick, who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. -The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate the people -in pain. To this joins an apartment destined for the orphans; and there -is a school: the children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital -of the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such -children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned. In another -quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught -letters. In another, 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious -matrons, in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were -at least 2,000 more maintained in other places. I think one apartment had -in it near 1,000 beds; these are in a very long room, having an inner -passage for those who attend, with as much care, sweetness, and -conveniency as can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat. -Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. Opposite to -this, are other chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare -and difficult cure, and they have rooms apart. At the end of the long -corridor is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stored; near which -are chambers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous. -Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered to a treasurer, -who makes an inventory, and is accountable to them, or their -representatives if they die. - -To this building joins the house of the commendator, who, with his -officers attending the sick, make up ninety persons; besides a convent -and an ample church for the friars and priests who daily attend. The -church is extremely neat, and the _sacristia_ is very rich. Indeed it is -altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw. Nor -is the benefit small which divers young physicians and chirurgeons reap -by the experience they learn here among the sick, to whom those students -have free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near the Port St. -Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua Paula, being the -aqueduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; -a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the city after a journey -of thirty-five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out -of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. Situate on a -very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially -when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it -are: - - "_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquęductus ab Augusto Cęsare - extructos, ęvi longinquā vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam - restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V._" - -And toward the fields: - - "_Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi - temporis injuriā penč diruto, sublimiorem._" - - * * * * * - - [One or more leaves are here wanting in Evelyn's MS., descriptive of - other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the city.] - -Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where is a public -and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and a stately fountain in -the street. Here we lay and drank excellent wine. - -28th January, 1645. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this morning -down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full of olive trees; and, anon, -pass a tower built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the banditti -who infest those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord -Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this -guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still -on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernę_ (whither the brethren came from Rome -to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, -resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged -by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work. The country -environing this passage is hilly, but rich; on the right hand stretches -an ample plain, being the _Pomptini Campi_. We reposed this night at -Piperno, in the posthouse without the town; and here I was extremely -troubled with a sore hand, which now began to fester, from a mischance at -Rome, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule; which -are the most wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet -Virgil's Camilla born. - -The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy of about thirty -firelocks, to guard us through the cork woods (much infested with the -banditti) as far as Fossa Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now -stands a church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas Aquinas -both studied and lies buried. Here we all alighted, and were most -courteously received by the Monks, who showed us many relics of their -learned Saint and at the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof -which he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, built after -the Gothic manner; but the place is very agreeably melancholy. After -this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a -little), we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and afterward -as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul, twenty-five -feet broad, every twelve feet something ascending for the ease and firmer -footing of horse and man; both the sides are also a little raised for -those who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone, -and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with some old ruin, sepulchre, or -broken statue. In one of these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in -the time of Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady, swimming -in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as if she -had been living, neither her face discolored, nor her hair disordered; at -her feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the -vault; having flamed, as was computed, now 1,500 years, by the conjecture -that she was Tulliola, the daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus found, -and as the inscription testified. We dined this day at Terracina, -heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory, -the Circean by name. While meat was preparing, I went up into the town, -and viewed the fair remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a -church, adorned with most stately columns; its architecture has been -excellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices, moldings, and huge -white marbles of which it is built. Before the portico stands a pillar -thus inscribed: - - "_Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta - Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco;_" - -for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches. - -On another more ancient: - - "_Imp. Cęsar Divi Nervę Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus - Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. - xviii. Silices suā pecuniā stravit._" - -Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then: - - "_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Pręfect. - Classis.--Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, II. vir._" - -[Sidenote: FONDI] - -Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something engraven on it, but -I could not stay to consider it. Coming down again, I went toward the -sea-side to contemplate that stupendous strange rock and promontory, -cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is the -Circean Cave, which I went into a good way; it makes a dreadful noise, by -reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continually assaulting the -beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive height, -stands an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at Fondi, a -most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa, -and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph -saluted us: "_Hospes, hģc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus -advenis, pacatč omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_." -The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it -was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by most -stupendous labor: here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres -and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi, -we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every -corner, charged with fruit. - -29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cęcubus, famous for the generous -wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset -with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange -trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formię], -where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a -rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable -orator was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was -delighted with the sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed among -all sorts of verdure; besides being now come within sight of the noble -city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising prospect along the -Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theater: and here we beheld that strangely -cleft rock, a frightful spectacle, which they say happened upon the -passion of our Blessed Savior; but the haste of our procaccio did not -suffer us to dwell so long on these objects and the many antiquities of -this town as we desired. - -At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot; dining at Mola, and passing Sinuessa, -Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and beheld the ruins of that vast -amphitheater and aqueduct yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded -the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massacus, celebrated for its wine, now -named Garo; and this night we lodged at a little village called St. -Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, near to Aurunca and Sessa. - -The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the Torre -di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in danger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by -debauching his enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant -plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I think, -the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw the -slender ruins of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome -and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a heap of rubbish, -except showing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces of -temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, vaults, colosses, etc., -confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is, -however, a new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out -of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples (which is about ten -or twelve English post miles) is as straight as a line, of great breadth, -fuller of travelers than I remember any of our greatest and most -frequented roads near London; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the -great fertility of the fields, planted with fruit trees, whose boles are -serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant, that it is -commonly reported one vine will load five mules with its grapes. What -adds much to the pleasure of the sight is, that the vines, climbing to -the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to -another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful picture -than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives, -pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare -fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came -three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took -leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitįno, -their gallant. - -[Sidenote: NAPLES] - -31st January, 1645. About noon we entered the city of Naples, alighting -at the Three Kings, where we found the most plentiful fare all the time -we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down -to fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat and fruits. - -The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired a coach to carry -us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a -very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which -lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent -islands, as far as Capreę, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. -This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and -garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and -rareness of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, -churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount Vesuvius -in the distance, all in full command of the eye, make it one of the -richest landscapes in the world. - -Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called Il Castello Nuovo, -which protects the shore; but they would by no entreaty permit us to go -in; the outward defense seems to consist but in four towers, very high, -and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to this is the -tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. - -Then we went to the very noble palace of the Viceroy, partly old, and -part of a newer work; but we did not stay long here. Toward the evening, -we took the air upon the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised -in the sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa. -Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of the piazza, and adorned -with divers rare statues of copper, representing the Sirens, or Deities -of the Parthenope, spouting large streams of water into an ample shell, -all of cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance of the -Mole, where we met many of the nobility both on horseback and in their -coaches to take the fresco from the sea, as the manner is, it being in -the most advantageous quarter for good air, delight and prospect. Here we -saw divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders, the -Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and paved -with a square hewn stone. From the Mole, we ascend to a church of great -antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters -carved on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. It -is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines. - -The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and except St. Peter's in Rome, -Naples exceeds all cities for stately churches and monasteries. We were -told that this day the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be -exposed, and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of the -boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was St. Peter's, richly -adorned, the chapel especially, where that Apostle said mass, as is -testified on the wall. - -After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix -that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Benč de me -scripsisti, Thoma_." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the -monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro. - -We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, -where we spent much time in surveying the chapel of Joh. Jov. Pontanus, -and in it the several and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, -wife, children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording, -as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of -Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "_Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. -Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos -hōc in loco ponendum curavit._" - -Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the -Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect toward the sea and -city, the one full of galleys and ships, the other of stately palaces, -churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, -Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreę, -Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the -most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is -most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister being all -laid with variously polished marbles, richly figured. They showed us a -massy cross of silver, much celebrated for the workmanship and carving, -and said to have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also is of -rare art; but above all to be admired, is the yet unfinished church of -the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, not to be equalled in Europe. -Hence, we passed by the Palazzo Caraffii, full of ancient and very noble -statues: also the palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little but -visit some friends, English merchants, resident for their negotiation; -only this morning at the Viceroy's Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses -that I had ever beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that -address and dexterity as I had never seen anything approach it. - -4th February, 1645. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities -in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of -the most observable palaces in the city, the repository of incomparable -rarities. Among the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina -and Pinna marina; the male and female chameleon; an Onocrotatus; an -extraordinary great crocodile; some of the Orcades Anates, held here for -a great rarity; likewise a salamander; the male and female Manucordiata, -the male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported the female -both lays and hatches her eggs; the mandragoras, of both sexes; Papyrus, -made of several reeds, and some of silk; tables of the rinds of trees, -written with Japonic characters; another of the branches of palm; many -Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within -its cavity; a petrified fisher's net; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a -monstrous spider, with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger. - -5th February, 1645. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which -was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music that accompanied -the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony took up most of the morning. - -6th February, 1645. We went by coach to take the air, and see the -diversions, or rather madness of the Carnival; the courtesans (who swarm -in this city to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registered and -paying a tax to the State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach, -as we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is so pestered -with these cattle, that there needs no small mortification to preserve -from their enchantment, while they display all their natural and -artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand -studied devices seek to inveigle foolish young men. - -[Sidenote: VESUVIUS] - -7th February, 1645. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles out -of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount Vesuvius. Here we -pass a fair fountain, called Labulla, which continually boils, supposed -to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridge, where on a -large upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to the -memorable eruption in 1630. - -Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules, we alighted, -crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with -our feet, now with our hands, not without many untoward slips which did -much bruise us on the various colored cinders, with which the whole -mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone, -others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I -made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive -altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the -goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baię, Cuma, Elysian Fields, -Capreę, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a -great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at -once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. -The mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and -commonly appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. Here, as we -approached, we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out of which -issued such sulphurous blasts and smoke, that we dared not stand long -near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself down to look -over into that most frightful and terrible vorago, a stupendous pit of -near three miles in circuit, and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular -hollow cliff (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now -and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at the bottom is -plane, like an even floor, which seems to be made by the wind circling -the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped -like a great brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, -continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an -impetuous noise and roaring, like the report of many muskets discharging. -This horrid barathrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the -strangeness of the spectacle, and the mention which the old histories -make of it, as one of the most stupendous curiosities in nature, and -which made the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect -the causes, and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise -famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did so much -mischief to the State lurking among and protected by, these horrid -caverns, when it was more accessible and less dangerous than it is now; -but especially notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in -_anno_ 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the memory of -history; throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity, as -not only environed the whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed -divers towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than a -hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards, where -formerly grew the most incomparable Greco; when, bursting through the -bowels of the earth, it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling -waters, drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruction, as -is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climbed up, -through a deep valley of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a -flowing river of melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules -at the foot of the mountain. - -On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baia, and -natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we entered the mountain -Pausilypus, at the left hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre -erected on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda or cupolated column, -but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay trees. At the entrance is -this inscription: - - _Stanisi Cencovius. - 1589 - Qui cineres? Tumuli hęc vestigia, conditur olim - Ille hōc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. - Can Ree MDLIII._[26] - - [Footnote 26: Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn; - but as its sense is not very clear, and the Diary contains - instances of incorrectness in transcribing, it may be desirable - to subjoin the distich said (by Keysler in his "Travels," ii. 433) - to be the only one in the whole mausoleum: - - "_Quę cineris tumulo hęc vestigia? conditur olim - Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces._"] - -After we were advanced into this noble and altogether wonderful crypt, -consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go abreast, -cut through a rocky mountain near three quarters of a mile (by the -ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who -employed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the midway, where -there is a well bored through the diameter of this vast mountain, which -admits the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, -wherein hang divers lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under -foot; but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively in this -much-frequented passage, that we were forced at midday to use a torch. At -length, we were delivered from the bowels of the earth into one of the -most delicious plains in the world: the oranges, lemons, pomegranates, -and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green trees; for the -summer is here eternal, caused by the natural and adventitious heat of -the earth, warmed through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our -guide, who alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife, and -delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to hold it in my -hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines, and exotics grow -readily. - -[Sidenote: LAGO D'AGNANO] - -We now came to a lake of about two miles in circumference, environed with -hills; the water of it is fresh and sweet on the surface, but salt at -bottom; some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported -of that profunditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people -call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents which, involved -together about the spring, fall down from the cliffy hills into it. It -has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a -dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave; it is not above three or -four paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. Whatever -having life enters it, presently expires. Of this we made trial with two -dogs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the more -directly into the further part of the den, where he was no sooner -entered, but--without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, except -that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes being -fixed:--we drew him out dead to all appearance; but immediately plunging -him into the adjoining lake, within less than half an hour he recovered, -and swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same on another -dog, without the application of the water, and left him quite dead. The -experiment has been made on men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of -Toledo caused to go in; likewise on some Turkish slaves; two soldiers, -and other foolhardy persons, who all perished, and could never be -recovered by the water of the lake, as are dogs; for which many learned -reasons have been offered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the -Canicular-days has mentioned, colloq. 15. And certainly the most likely -is, the effect of those hot and dry vapors which ascend out of the earth, -and are condensed by the ambient cold, as appears by their converting -into crystalline drops on the top, while at the bottom it is so -excessively hot, that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a -little distance, was suddenly re-lighted. - -Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of the nature of -sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned with stone for the sick to -sweat in, the vapors here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success -in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up -a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a -furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogęi, and the fields -Phlegręn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. -We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter -of a mile in breadth, the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of -whose sides and foot break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a -noise like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud reports, -like so many guns. The heat of this place is wonderful, the earth itself -being almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so -hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds -like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water thus struggling with -those fires bubbles and spouts aloft into the air. The mouths of these -spiracles are bestrewed with variously colored cinders, which rise with -the vapor, as do many colored stones, according to the quality of the -combustible matter, insomuch as it is no little adventure to approach -them. They are, however, daily frequented both by sick and well; the -former receiving the fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed -incurable. Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they refine -in certain houses near the place, casting it into canes, to a very great -value. Near this we were showed a hill of alum, where is one of the best -mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are -found here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade themselves -that here are the gates of purgatory (for which it may be they have -erected, very near it, a convent, and named it St. Januarius), reporting -to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from -these caverns and volcanoes; with other legends of birds that are never -seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into the lake at night, -appearing no more all the week after. - -We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple, or theater, of 172 -feet in length, and about 80 in breadth, thrown down by an earthquake, -not long since; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are -many strange meanders; from which it is named the LABYRINTH; this place -is so haunted with bats, that their perpetual fluttering endangered the -putting out our links. - -[Sidenote: POZZOLO] - -Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking hills, till we came to -Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paul, when -he came into Italy, after the tempest described in the Acts of the -Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals, -antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country people, who daily -find such things among the very old ruins of those places. This town was -formerly a Greek colony, built by the Samians, a seasonable commodious -port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of Neptune's -Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and near it the stately palace and -gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterward, we visited -that admirably built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of -an entire rock, though indeed consisting of several square stones. The -inscription remains thus: "_L. Calphurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum -ornamentis D. D._;" and under it, "_L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus -Architectus_." It is now converted into a church, in which they showed us -huge bones, which they affirm to have been of some giant. - -We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact with that -bituminous sand in which the materials are laid, as the like is hardly to -be found, though all this has not been sufficient to protect it from the -fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have -almost demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remaining; a -stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune! To this joins the bridge of -Caligula, by which (having now embarked ourselves) we sailed to the -pleasant Baia, almost four miles in length, all which way that proud -Emperor would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along toward a villa of the -orator Cicero's, where we were shown the ruins of his Academy; and, at -the foot of a rock, his Baths, the waters reciprocating their tides with -the neighboring sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I -conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here float in abundance -on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable matter by the fire, which -renders them light and porous, so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep -under them, having taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for -fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place. From hence, we -coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius, where we might see divers -stately palaces that had been swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. -Coming to shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore for -its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being divided from the -sea by a bank of incredible labor, the supposed work of Hercules; it is -now half choked up with rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which -rose partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the space -of one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on the 29th September, -1538, after many terrible earthquakes, which ruined divers places -thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning -on the sudden, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in -such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their fall, making the -inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their habitations, supposing the end of -the world had been come. - -From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round -form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the -poet for the gates of hell, by which Ęneas made his descent, and where he -sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black -color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the -river Styx has its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a -Temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is controverted. -Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, -in which having gone about two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry -which leads us into a room of about ten paces long, proportionably broad -and high; the side walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic, though -now exceedingly decayed by time. Here is a short cell or rather niche, -cut out of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they -report that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is supposed -by most to have been a bath only. This subterranean grot leads quite -through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has -sunk in, so as we were constrained back again, and to creep on our -bellies, before we came to the light. It is reported Nero had once -resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that should have extended -to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. - -From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of Italy, the renowned -Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent promontory, but -is now a heap of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco Felice, -heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly -buildings; among whose heaps are frequently found statues and other -antiquities, by such as dig for them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia, -and Acheron. Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli and -Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut through the main rock, -where the vapors ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you -will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as -sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many -infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahię, where once stood that -famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not -without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that -the sun shines on, according to that of Horace: - - "_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis pręlucet amoenis._" - -Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the -ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of -Venus. Here were those famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand -when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock -stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish -pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Cęsar. - -Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the -monstrous murder of Nero committed on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre -was yet shown us in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry -heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree turned into -stone, and are continually dropping. - -[Sidenote: MISENUS] - -Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, the palaces of -Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we -proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of -Ęneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to -have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles -distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. -Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cęsar died; and here -runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, -heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we -walked to those receptacles of water called _Piscina Mirabilis_, being a -vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in breadth, the roof propped up -with four ranks of square pillars, twelve in a row; the walls are brick, -plastered over with such a composition as for strength and politure -resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been built by Nero, as a -conservatory for fresh water; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into -which we were next led. All these crypta being now almost sunk into the -earth, show yet their former amplitude and magnificence. - -Returning toward the Baia, we again pass the Elysian Fields, so -celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their situation and verdure, -being full of myrtles and sweet shrubs, and having a most delightful -prospect toward the Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the -ruins of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus; over the arches stand -divers urns, full of Roman ashes. - -Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiquities, we retired -to our felucca, which rowed us back again toward Pozzolo, at the very -place of St. Paul's landing. Keeping along the shore, they showed us a -place where the sea water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the -island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph; and thus we leave the Baia, so -renowned for the sweet retirements of the most opulent and voluptuous -Romans. They certainly were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet -tempting site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily -invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so many stupendous -rarities to be met with, as in the circle of a few miles which environ -these blissful abodes. - -[Sidenote: NAPLES] - -8th February, 1645. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal, well -furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city is crowded with -inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. The government is held of the Pope -by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the -Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects there; -Apulia and Calabria yielding him near four millions of crowns yearly to -maintain it. The country is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty -Archbishops, and one hundred and seven Bishops; the estates of the -nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the -Vice-Roy, there is among the Chief Magistrates a High Constable, -Admiral, Chief Justice, Great Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a -Secretary; these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enrich -themselves out of the miserable people's labor, silks, manna, sugar, oil, -wine, rice, sulphur, and alum; for with all these riches is this -delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons on the -adjoining hills in form of a thick dew. The very winter here is a summer, -ever fruitful, so that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries, -apricots, and many other sorts of fruit. - -The building of the city is for the size the most magnificent of any in -Europe, the streets exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults and -conveyances under them for the sulliage; which renders them very sweet -and clean, even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 3,000 -churches and monasteries, and these the best built and adorned of any in -Italy. They greatly affect the Spanish gravity in their habit; delight in -good horses; the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches -and sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. -The women are generally well featured, but excessively libidinous. The -country people so jovial and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen -almost universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs in -praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the field with their -fiddle; they are merry, witty, and genial; all which I much attribute to -the excellent quality of the air. They have a deadly hatred to the -French, so that some of our company were flouted at for wearing red -cloaks, as the mode then was. - -This I made the _non ultra_ of my travels, sufficiently sated with -rolling up and down, and resolving within myself to be no longer an -_individuum vagum_, if ever I got home again; since, from the report of -divers experienced and curious persons, I had been assured there was -little more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, -France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and prodigious -barbarism. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -Thus, about the 7th of February,[27] we set out on our return to Rome by -the same way we came, not daring to adventure by sea, as some of our -company were inclined to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that -coast; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place -and sepulchre of the famous duelists who decided the ancient quarrel -between their imperious neighbors with the loss of their lives. These -brothers, the Horatii and Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under -two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown with -rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which is -famous. - - [Footnote 27: Evelyn's dates in this portion of his Diary appear to - require occasionally that qualification of "about."] - -Being arrived at Rome on the 13th of February, we were again invited to -Signor Angeloni's study, where with greater leisure we surveyed the -rarities, as his cabinet and medals especially, esteemed one of the best -collections of them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps, one -of them dedicated to Pallas, the other _Laribus Sacru'_, as appeared by -their inscriptions; some old Roman rings and keys; the Egyptian Isis, -cast in iron; sundry rare basso-relievos; good pieces of paintings, -principally of Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face -admirably done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos; a great number of -pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of natural -rarities, dried animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, etc.; divers -very antique statues of brass; some lamps of so fine an earth that they -resembled cornelians, for transparency and color; hinges of Corinthian -brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in the ruins of Nero's -golden house. - -In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the palace of Gichi, -to review the works of Raphael: and, returning by St. Angelo, we saw the -castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side considered those -admirable pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons -Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor three or four -water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the -Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of -Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _į fresco_, -preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one -of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world. - -14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endowed -by Cardinal Sfrondęti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of -this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a -veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the -body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in snow-white -marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps, -and incensories of great cost. A little farther, they show us the Bath of -St. Cecilia, to which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of -the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico, taken from the -Baths of Septimius Severus. - -15th February, 1645. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber, and visited -the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of -a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the -mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here -are the ruins of the Temple of Ęsculapius, now converted into a stately -hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church -of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken -altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a -cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it, -Santa Maria Schola Gręca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to -be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing -also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of -Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the foot of Mount -Aventine, are the Pope's salt houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St. -Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; there, in a chapel, -is an admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about with -columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the church is a stone, cast, -as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic, while he was at mass. Hence, -we traveled toward a heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on the bank -of the Tiber, a magazine of stones; and near which formerly stood a -triumphal arch, in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins -of the bridge yet appear. - -We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a heap of potsherds, almost 200 feet -high, thought to have been thrown there and amassed by the subjects of -the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more -probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters lived; at the -summit Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it is a spacious green, -called the Hippodrome, where Olympic games were celebrated, and the -people mustered, as in our London Artillery-Ground. Going hence, to the -old wall of the city, we much admired the pyramid, or tomb, of Caius -Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient entire monuments, -inserted in the wall, with this inscription: - - "_C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pl. - VII. Vir. Epulonum._" - -And a little beneath: - - "_Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. - F. Cla. Melę Heredis et Pothi L._" - -At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which -the three Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, -bending homeward by St. Saba, by Antoninus's baths (which we entered), is -the marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and the -stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these baths. Passing by a -corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the -Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by -Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Naviculā, so -named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal -before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a -glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathęi, -which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I -was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, -aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and -maintained in beauty at an expense of 6,000 crowns yearly, which, if not -expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the possession of a greater -revenue to another family: so curious are they in their villas and places -of pleasure, even to excess. - -The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst -of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and ancient -obelisks, full of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces, -when overthrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased and -transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earl of Arundel, -could it have been well removed to the sea. This is since set together -and placed on the stupendous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and -serving for a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope's -architect. Near this is the sepulchre of Metellus, of massy stone, pretty -entire, now called Capo di Bovo. Hence, to a small oratory, named -"_Domine, quo vadis_"; where the tradition is, that our Blessed Savior -met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again. - -St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciįta_ excepted), -but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the -ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with -the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well -full of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of -the arrows (used in shooting him). These are preserved by the Fulgentine -Monks, who have here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto -which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground; the sides, or -walls which we passed were filled with bones and dead bodies, laid (as it -were) on shelves, whereof some were shut up with broad stones and now and -then a cross, or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these -subterranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them, said to -have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, in the times of -persecution, nor seems it improbable. - -17th February, 1645. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy of the -Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signor Mancini, where the -wits of the town meet on certain days to recite poems, and debate on -several subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and stands in -an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By -these ingenious exercises, besides the learned discourses, is the purity -of the Italian tongue daily improved. The room is hung round with -devices, or emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several other -Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the -Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor -Fido, once of this society. The chief part of the day we spent in hearing -the academic exercises. - -18th February, 1645. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has a fair -front, and within are parts of the bodies of St. Mark and Marcellino; on -the Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval; -Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we -passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totally in -ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English Jesuits, with whose -Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted; who received us -courteously. They call their church and college St. Thomasso de gli -Inglesi, and is a seminary. Among other trifles, they show the relics of -Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and -many representing the sufferings of several of their society executed in -England, especially F. Campion. - -In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had seen the feet of -many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble Romans, and served -at table, as the ladies and noble women did to other poor creatures in -another room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had been thus -treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appears by the -register, which brings store of money. - -Returning homeward, I saw the palace of Cardinal Spada, where is a most -magnificent hall painted by Daniel de Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who -made the fret in the little Court; but the rare perspectives are of -Bolognesi. Near this is the Mont Pieta, instituted as a bank for the -poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon pawns. To this -joins St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or Corporation, that do -many works of charity. Hence we came through Campo di Fiori, or -herb-market, in the midst of which is a fountain casting out water of a -dolphin, in copper; and in this piazza is common execution done. - -19th February, 1645. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John -Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had his apartment in -Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as -Vice-chancellor of the Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The -building is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted marble, with -four ranks of noble lights; the principal entrance is of Fontana's -design, and all marble; the portico within sustained by massy columns; -on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by -Salviati and Vasari; and so ample is this palace, that six princes with -their families have been received in it at one time, without incommoding -each other. - -20th February, 1645. I went, as was my usual custom, and spent an -afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well as to see what antiquities I could -purchase among the people who hold market there for medals, pictures, and -such curiosities, as to hear the mountebanks prate and distribute their -medicines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedicated to sports -and pastimes, and is now the greatest market of the city, having three -most noble fountains, and the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St. -Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents -for friars and nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most -stately catafalco, or capellar ardente, for the death of the Queen of -Spain; the church was hung with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, -or funeral oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung -about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights -and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by -Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciįta_, -too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at -the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste -up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly been -one of the best statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as the -remaining bust does still show. - -21st February, 1645. I walked in the morning up the hill toward the -Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to the late Pope -Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty church, full of -rare pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still -does miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. It is a lofty -edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air. After -dinner, passing along the Strada del Corso, I observed the column of -Antoninus, passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, -heretofore erected in honor of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a -Cardinal living near it. A little further on the right hand stands the -column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius -Antoninus, comprehending in a basso-relievo of white marble his hostile -acts against the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, etc; but it is now -somewhat decayed. On the summit has been placed the image of St. Paul, of -gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 feet high, ascended by 207 -steps, receiving light by fifty-six apertures, without defacing the -sculpture. - -At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's palace, the heads -of whose pillars show them to have been Corinthian. - -Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in which stands a -sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair fountain; but the grace of this -market, and indeed the admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, -now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, and -still remaining the most entire antiquity of the city. It was built by -Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico, sustained by -thirteen pillars of Theban marble, six feet thick, and fifty-three in -height, of one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. - -Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly covered with one -cupola, seemingly suspended in the air, and receiving light by a hole in -the middle only. The structure is near as high as broad, viz, 144 feet, -not counting the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more to the -top, all of white marble; and, till Urban VIII. converted part of the -metal into ordnance of war against the Duke of Parma, and part to make -the high altar in St. Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian -brass, ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of the -cupola, richly carved in octagons in the stone. There are niches in the -walls, in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other -Gods and Goddesses; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the -other Union[28] that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up, as -she had done its fellow. There are several of these niches, one above -another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities; but the -place is now converted into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and -all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-gates, of -Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the Roman antiquities the most -worthy of notice. There lie interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di -Urbino, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. - - [Footnote 28: - - And in the cup an UNION shall he throw, - Richer than that which four successive kings - In Denmark's crown have worn. - --Shakespeare, "Hamlet," Act v. Sc. 2. - - Theobald says, an UNION is the finest sort of pearl, and has its - place in all crowns and coronets. The Latin word for a single large - pearl, it is hardly necessary to add, is _unio_.] - -Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of -architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole -Corso. - -22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitį del Monte, a monastery of French, a -noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well -painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with -the miracles of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French -Kings. In the _pergolo_ above, the walls are wrought with excellent -perspective, especially the St. John; there are the Babylonish dials, -invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. This convent, so eminently situated on -Mons Pincius, has the entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair -garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici. - -23d February, 1645. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo degli -Incurabili, a fair church built by F. da Volterra, of good architecture, -and so is the hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I -passed the evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, -where his ashes lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins -the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius, -and in the church is the miraculous shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul -III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over the -Turks in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some rare paintings of -Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those two in the choir are by Sansovino, -and in the Chapel de Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many -great scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription: - - "_Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis, - Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo._" - -Opposite to the _facciįtę_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of -hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the -Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and -since placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of one -entire stone, and placed with great art and engines by the famous -Domenico Fontana. - -Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to -Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so prominently built as -threatening every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand -years. Under this is the burying place for the common prostitutes, where -they are put into the ground, _sans ceremonie_. - -24th February, 1645. We walked to St. Roche's and Martine's, near the -brink of the Tiber, a large hospital for both sexes. Hence, to the -Mausoleum Augusti, between the Tiber and the Via Flaminia, now much -ruined, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It -was intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and -was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed with stately trees -and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed -the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of good -marbles, especially the portico, of admirable architecture. These are -properly the University Schools, where lectures are read on Law, -Medicine, and Anatomy, and students perform their exercises. - -Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della Valle, near the former -Theater of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this church -and the Order, who are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a -chapel, of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare -paintings. Under it is a place where St. Sebastian is said to have been -beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is painted by -Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and monastery -adjoining are admirable. - -25th February, 1645. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom we usually -heard preach to a number of Jews, to be godfather to a converted Turk and -Jew. The ceremony was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la -Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; then exorcised at -their entering the church with abundance of ceremonies, and, when led -into the choir, were baptized by a Bishop, _in pontificalibus_. The Turk -lived afterward in Rome, sold hot waters and would bring us presents when -he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our cloaks; but the Jew was -believed to be a counterfeit. This church, situated on a spacious rising, -was formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and richly -adorned, and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The -paintings of the chapel are by Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the -altar is by Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of -the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt publicly here, -especially at the procession on the Annunciation, where I saw his -Holiness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., _in pontificalibus_; -dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his -tiara on his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open -armchair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue of Christ, at the -Columna, is esteemed one of the masterpieces of M. Angelo: innumerable -are the paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of -the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We returned by St. -Mark's, a stately church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by -Perugino, of the Two Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built -by the famous Bramante. - -26th February, 1645. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum Trajanum, -where his column stands yet entire, wrought with admirable basso-relievo -recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the -same proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps, -enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially disposed; in -height from the pedestal 140 feet. - -It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands St. -Peter's of gilt brass, erected by Pope Sextus V. The sculpture of this -stupendous pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus; but what is -very observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal, showing -how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins; this monument being -at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner, we took the air in -Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had -a fair palace built by several good masters on part of the ruins of -Constantine's Baths; well adorned with columns and paintings, especially -those of Guido Reni. - -27th February, 1645. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and myself walked to the -Trophies of Marius, erected in honor of his victory over the Cimbrians, -but these now taken out of their niches are placed on the balusters of -the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping on our -way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the -demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he threw down; and it -was here, they report, he deposited the wood of the true Cross, found by -his mother, Helena; in honor whereof this church was built, and in memory -of his victory over Maxentius when that holy sign appeared to him. The -edifice without is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof, -and one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to St. -Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought from Jerusalem; the walls -are of fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter, save once a -year. Under the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in -Lydian marble, and Benedict VII.; and they show a number of relics, -exposed at our request; with a phial of our blessed Savior's blood; two -thorns of his crown; three chips of the real cross; one of the nails, -wanting a point; St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the -title (put on the cross), being part of a thin board; some of Judas's -pieces of silver; and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this -venerable church joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an -ancient amphitheatre. - -Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port of St. Laurence, to -that Saint's church, and where his ashes are enshrined. This was also -built by the same great Constantine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro -Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by Honorius II. It is said -the corpse of St. Stephen, the proto martyr, was deposited here by that -of St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebastian gave it -place of its own accord. The Church has no less than seven privileged -altars, and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this -martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers -saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our -return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the -prętor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading -to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired. - -We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the -Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places; but -the most remarkable were the three races of the Barbary horses, that run -in the Strada del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on -their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their motion to -stimulate them: then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, naked men, old -and young, and boys, and abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing -is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or -_plaustrum_, where the scene, or tiring place, is made of boughs in a -rural manner, which they drive from street to street with a yoke or two -of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, -buffoons, and all manner of rabble. - -1st March, 1645. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern ceremonies -performed by a Bishop, etc., in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke -and Duchess of Bouillon received their ashes, it being the first day of -Lent. There was now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day -before of licentious people; all saints alike to appearance. - -The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues -and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix; -a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of -the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole -gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with -noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile farther, we came to Pons -Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the -miraculous sign of the cross, _In hoc signo vinces_. It was a sweet -morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence, to Aqua Claudia -again, an aqueduct finished by that Emperor at the expense of eight -millions. In the afternoon, to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo -Vaccino; and upon the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's -Temple, in the Piscina, a piazza so-called near the famous bridge built -by Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV. - -The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear the sermons, at -St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same -subjects and text yearly, full of Italian eloquence and action. On our -Lady day, 25th March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the -Minerva, the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo being fired, when he -gives portions to 500 _zitelle_ (young women), who kiss his feet in -procession, some destined to marry, some to be nuns;--the scholars of the -college celebrating the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next -day, his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent to -several great Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on our -Savior's feeding the multitude with five loaves, the ceremony ends. The -sacrament being this day exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross, the -concourse about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday, there was a -great procession, after a papal mass. - -11th April, 1645. St. Veronica's handkerchief (with the impression of our -Savior's face) was exposed, and the next day the spear, with a world of -ceremony. On Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the -Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This -finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders -to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coenā Domini_, he both curses -and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he -went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve -poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at Whitehall; they -have clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives with his own hands, and -serves at their table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their -garments are of white woolen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The -same ceremonies are done by the Conservators and other officers of state -at St. John di Lateran; and now the table on which they say our blessed -Lord celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the -Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dressing up their -pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visit -divers. - -On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where the handkerchief, -lance, and cross were all exposed, and worshiped together. All the -confession seats were filled with devout people, and at night was a -procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves till the -blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the bare -back, having visors and masks on their faces; at every three or four -steps dashing the knotted and raveled whip cord over their shoulders, as -hard as they could lay it on; while some of the religious orders and -fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, -making all together a horrible and indeed heathenish pomp. - -The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di Laterano, so as the -whole week was spent in running from church to church, all the town in -busy devotion, great silence, and unimaginable superstition. - -Easter day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo: we went to St. -Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated mass, showed the relics -before-named, and gave a public Benediction. - -Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova; and, though there were -abundance of ceremonies at the other great churches, and great exposure -of relics, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season -of the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by reason of the heat -minding us of returning northward, we spent the rest of our time in -visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seen. Only I do not -forget the Pope's benediction of the _Gonfalone_, or Standard, and giving -the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the -University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a -foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took -coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterrįnea, being -much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield, -guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about -twenty paces, which delivered us into a large entry that led us into -several streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a -strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and -described them in his book. We ever and anon came into pretty square -rooms, that seemed to be chapels with altars, and some adorned with very -ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed on the -sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut -up with a coarse flat stone, having engraven on them _Pro Christo_, or a -cross and palms, which are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all -likelihood, were the meetings of the Primitive Christians during the -persecutions, as Pliny the Younger describes them. As I was prying about, -I found a glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) with dried blood, and -two lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there -appeared nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the -chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus, after -wandering two or three miles in this subterranean meander, we returned -almost blind when we came into the daylight, and even choked by the smoke -of the torches. It is said that a French bishop and his retinue -adventuring too far into these dens, their lights going out, were never -heard of more. - -We were entertained at night with an English play at the Jesuits', where -we before had dined; and the next day at Prince Galicano's, who himself -composed the music to a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal -Pamphilio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the cardinals, the -ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. There had -been in the morning a joust and tournament of several young gentlemen on -a formal defy, to which we had been invited; the prizes being distributed -by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The lancers and swordsmen -running at tilt against the barriers, with a great deal of clatter, but -without any bloodshed, giving much diversion to the spectators, and was -new to us travelers. - -The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending the -entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the ambassador from the Grand -Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the -Villa Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is rather a -park, or a Paradise, contrived and planted with walks and shades of -myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and groves, with abundance of -fountains, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring -rivulets. Here they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was -also a vivary, where, among other exotic fowls, was an ostrich; besides a -most capacious aviary; and, in another inclosed part, a herd of deer. -Before the palace (which might become the court of a great prince) stands -a noble fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The outer walls -of the house are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the -same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with statues from -the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of -statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. -In the first hall were the Twelve Cęsars, of antique marble, and the -whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters, -and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for -I often visited this delicious place. - -This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Cardinal Medici -before the gate, and lights of several colors all about the windows -through the city, which they contrive by setting the candles in little -paper lanterns dyed with various colors, placing hundreds of them from -story to story; which renders a gallant show. - -4th May, 1645. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of Lucca, I went -to the Vatican, where, by favor of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. -Barberini, I was admitted into the Consistory, heard the ambassador make -his oration in Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or -throne, and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was presented -to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding -up his vest and surplice; and then, being sufficiently blessed with his -thumb and two fingers for that day I returned home to dinner. - -We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi, which are absolutely -the best collection in Rome. - -Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, found -on the snowy Alps; I measured the hydra, and found it not a foot long; -the three necks and fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several -pieces of serpents' skins. - -5th May, 1645. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of the city to -Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built for -a country house; but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious places -I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, -ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent -architecture) in the centre of the inclosure, rises a high hill, or -mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so formed by nature, as if it -had been cut out by art, from the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming -rather a great river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of -water, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when the sun shines -out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, wherein are curious rocks, -hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds, moving and chirping by -force of the water, with several other pageants and surprising -inventions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper ball that -continually dances about three feet above the pavement, by virtue of a -wind conveyed secretly to a hole beneath it; with many other devices to -wet the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to -the skin. In one of these theaters of water, is an Atlas spouting up the -stream to a very great height; and another monster makes a terrible -roaring with a horn; but, above all, the representation of a storm is -most natural, with such fury of rain, wind, and thunder, as one would -imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The garden has excellent walks -and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, etc., and the -goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder -that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with such encomiums. -The Palace is indeed built more like a cabinet than anything composed of -stone and mortar; it has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent -marbles and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino; the -movables are princely and rich. This was the last piece of architecture -finished by Giacomo della Porta, who built it for Pietro Cardinal -Aldobrandini, in the time of Clement VIII.[29] - - [Footnote 29: Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in - January, 1592, by the name of Clement VIII., and died in March, - 1605.] - -We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the side of -a hill called Mondragone, finished by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample -and kingly edifice. It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre -for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-grounds, -groves and solitudes. The air is so fresh and sweet, as few parts of -Italy exceed it; nor is it inferior to any palace in the city itself for -statues, pictures, and furniture; but, it growing late, we could not take -such particular notice of these things as they deserved. - -[Sidenote: TIVOLI] - -6th May, 1645. We rested ourselves; and next day, in a coach, took our -last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli, or -the old Tiburtum. At about six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a -bridge built by Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient -sepulchres, among others that of Valerius Volusi; and near it past the -stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found a heap, or -turret, full of inscriptions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at -Tivoli, we went first to see the palace d'Este, erected on a plain, but -where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the -garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting -out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast -forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular -exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho -(looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of -the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four -sweet and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water, -and in a grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius, -Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, -the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, -all of exquisite marble, copper, and other suitable adornments. The -Cupids pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns on which -are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly paved with -_pietra-commessa_, shells, coral, etc. - -Toward Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious walk, full of -fountains, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in -rarely sculptured _mezzo relievo_. At the end of this, next the wall, is -the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing -that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermę, temples, arches, -aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running -through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the -river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and -singing till an owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes. -Near this is the fountain of dragons, casting out large streams of water -with great noise. In another grotto, called Grotto di Natura, is an -hydraulic organ; and below this are divers stews and fish ponds, in one -of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a seahorse, in -another a Triton; and lastly, a garden of simples. There are besides in -the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteads richly inlaid, and -sundry other precious movables: the whole is said to have cost the best -part of a million. - -Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial miracles, and dined, -we went to see the so famous natural precipice and cascade of the river -Anio, rushing down from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what -with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of the water -against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it and forming a -natural Iris, and the prodigious depth of the gulf below, it is enough to -astonish one that looks on it. Upon the summit of this rock stands the -ruins and some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tyburtina, -or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of its pristine -beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder drying in the sun, and a -little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were showed, at some -distance, the city Pręneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of -ruins; and so came late to our lodging. - -We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except -what should happen to come in our way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or -myself should go to take the air: only I may not omit that one afternoon, -diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank there to allure -curious strangers, taking off a ring from his finger, which seemed set -with a dull, dark stone a little swelling out, like what we call (though -untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, and -then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and large as a -small wax candle; then, blowing it out, repeated this several times. I -have much regretted that I did not purchase the receipt of him for making -that composition at what price soever; for though there is a process in -Jo. Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several trials they -none of them have succeeded. - -Among other observations I made in Rome are these: as to coins and -medals, ten _asses_ make the Roman _denarius_, five the _quinarius_, ten -_denarii_ an _aureus_; which accompt runs almost exactly with what is now -in use of _quatrini_, _baiocs_, _julios_, and _scudi_, each exceeding the -other in the proportion of ten. The _sestertius_ was a small silver coin, -marked H. S. or rather LL^s, valued two pounds and a half of silver, viz, -250 _denarii_, about twenty-five golden _ducati_. The stamp of the Roman -_denarius_ varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma -armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were called _bigi_; if -with four, _quadrigi_: if with a Victoria, so named. The mark of the -_denarius_ was distinguished > | < thus, or X; the _quinarius_ of half -value, had, on one side, the head of Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and -Pollux on horseback, inscribed _Roma_, etc. - -I observed that in the Greek church they made the sign of the cross from -the right hand to the left; contrary to the Latins and the schismatic -Greeks; gave the benediction with the first, second, and little finger -stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance of -the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two. - -[Illustration: _LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683_ - -_Photogravure after a painting by Bridges_] - -For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and Algardi were in the -greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a statuary; who made the Andrea in St. -Peter's, and is said to have died mad because it was placed in an ill -light. Among the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has such an address -of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so well as to make his -copies pass for originals; Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a -Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armor, plate, dead life, -tapestry, etc. The chief masters of music, after Marc Antonio, the best -treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch; the next Cardinal Bichi's -eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and Nicholai, bass. The Jews in Rome wore -red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted -one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on -which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color. -There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much -solicited for an order of Jesuitesses. - -At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his cloak and hat for -murder. They struck the malefactor with a club that first stunned him, -and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at -Halifax.[30] - - [Footnote 30: A guillotine.] - -It is reported that Rome has been once no less than fifty miles in -compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 3,000 churches and chapels, -monasteries, etc. It is divided into fourteen regions or wards; has seven -mountains, and as many campi or valleys; in these are fair parks, or -gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and pleasure, at some -distance from the streets, yet within the walls. - -The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till I went -from Rome, amounting to but 616 _ducati di banco_, though I purchased -many books, pictures, and curiosities. - -18th May, 1645. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being disappointed -of moneys long expected, I was forced to return by the same way I came, -desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I -diverted to take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit by -a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such collections as I -had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about to behold this once and -yet glorious city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, give -it my last farewell. - -Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourned now -about seven months, autumn, winter, and spring, I took coach, in company -with two courteous Italian gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a -house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called -Caprarola, situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a little town, -or rather a natural and stupendous rock; witness those vast caves serving -now for cellarage, where we were entertained with most generous wine of -several sorts, being just under the foundation. The palace was built by -the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex. Farnese, in -form of an octagon, the court in the middle being exactly round, so as -rather to resemble a fort, or castle; yet the chambers within are all of -them square, which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these rooms -is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite angles may be -heard the least whisper; they say any perfect square does it. Most of the -paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an -artificial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a great -number of lodging chambers are remarkable; but most of all the pictures -and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci; the Dead Christ is -incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues and noble fountains, -especially that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and lay -that night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome. - -19th May, 1645. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day, -at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera. - -[Sidenote: SIENNA] - -21st May, 1645. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass admiring the -great church built entirely both within and without with white and black -marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a -shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles, -representing the story of both Testaments, admirably wrought. Here lies -Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life -of Ęneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in -antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though -Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's -disciplining cell, the door whereof is half cut out into chips by the -pilgrims and devotees, being of deal wood. - -Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the Duomo in which the -Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The -bending tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and is -a stupendous piece of art. In the gallery of curiosities is a fair mummy; -the tail of a sea-horse; coral growing on a man's skull; a chariot -automaton; two pieces of rock crystal, in one of which is a drop of -water, in the other three or four small worms; two embalmed children; -divers petrifactions, etc. The garden of simples is well furnished, and -has in it the deadly yew, or _taxus_, of the ancients; which Dr. -Belluccio, the superintendent, affirms that his workmen cannot endure to -clip for above the space of half an hour at a time, from the pain of the -head which surprises them. - -We went hence from Leghorn, by coach, where I took up ninety crowns for -the rest of my journey, with letters of credit for Venice, after I had -sufficiently complained of my defeat of correspondence at Rome. - -The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territory and state of -itself. The city is neat and well fortified, with noble and pleasant -walks of trees on the works, where the gentry and ladies used to take the -air. It is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the -country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The church of -St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more remarkable to -us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English king,[31] who died here on -his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb: - - _Hic rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus; - Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum. - Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. - Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum. - Hic genitor Sanctę Wulburgę Virginis almę - Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, - Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum._ - - [Footnote 31: What particular Richard King of England this was, it - is impossible to say; the tomb still exists, and has long been a - _crux_ to antiquaries and travelers.] - -Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble -both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the -fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above -all venerable for that sacred _volto_ which (as tradition goes) was -miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the -artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what face to set -on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civil to strangers, above all -places in Italy, and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap -living, which causes travelers to set up their rest here more than in -Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the ladies here are -very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserved; of these -we bought gloves and embroidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen -in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy days' -journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's but having Spain for a -protector (though the least bigoted of all Roman Catholics), and being -one of the fortified cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole -country abounds in excellent olives, etc. - -[Sidenote: PISTORIA] - -Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoria, where, besides one -church, there was little observable: only in the highway we crossed a -rivulet of salt water, though many miles from the sea. The country is -extremely pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for -the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal -distances, watered with clear and plentiful streams. - -Rising early the next morning we arrived at Peggio Imperiale, being a -palace of the Great Duke, not far from the city, having omitted it in my -passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it -were of tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At the -entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the Tiber and Arno, of -marble; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. The building is -sumptuous, and curiously furnished within with cabinets of -pietra-commessa in tables, pavements, etc., which is a magnificence, or -work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures are, Adam and Eve -by Albert Durer, very excellent; as is that piece of carving in wood by -the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian -line; the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress of this -palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had seen more -magnificently adorned, or furnished. - -[Sidenote: FLORENCE] - -We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same, and other -curiosities which we had neglected on our first being at Florence. We -went, therefore, to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the -Annunciata. The story is, that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a -sack of corn of the religious of that convent, and repayment being -demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph -sitting on a sack of corn, and reading to the Blessed Virgin; a piece -infinitely valued. There fell down in the cloister an old man's face -painted on the wall in _fresco_, greatly esteemed, and broke into crumbs; -the Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it, but none -of them would presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like -another Apelles; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, -picking up the fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially -together, that the injury it had received was hardly discernible. Andrea -del Sarto lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of -Bartolomeo, who having spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel -Gabriel, and being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin, he -began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the -morning to work on the face; but, when he came, no sooner had he drawn -away the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than -an admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted; at which miracle -all the city came in to worship. It is now kept in the Chapel of the -Salutation, a place so enriched by devotees, that none in Italy, save -Loretto, is said to exceed it. This picture is always covered with three -shutters, one of which is of massy silver; methinks it is very brown, the -forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. They report that -those who have the honor of seeing it never lose their sight--happy then -we! Belonging to this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of -it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up, some of gold, -and a cabinet of precious stones. - -Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least forty ranks of -porphyry and other statues, and twenty-eight whole figures, many rare -paintings and relievos, two square columns with trophies. In one of the -galleries, twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads; a Bacchus of M. -Angelo, and one of Bandinelli; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely -Cupid, of Parian marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, -and a man fighting with a centaur; three figures in little of Andrea; a -huge candlestick of amber; a table of Titian's painting, and another -representing God the Father sitting in the air on the Four Evangelists; -animals; divers smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure virgin gold, -as big as an egg. In the third chamber of rarities is the square -cabinet, valued at 80,000 crowns, showing on every front, a variety of -curious work; one of birds and flowers, of _pietra-commessa_; one, a -descent from the cross, of M. Angelo; on the third, our Blessed Savior -and the Apostles, of amber; and, on the fourth, a crucifix of the same. -Between the pictures, two naked Venuses, by Titian; Adam and Eve, by -Durer; and several pieces of Portdenone, and del Frate. There is a globe -of six feet diameter. In the Armory, were an entire elk, a crocodile, and -among the harness, several targets and antique horse-arms, as that of -Charles V.; two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a horse's -tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old Palace, which has a -very great hall for feasts and comedies, the roof rarely painted, and the -side walls with six very large pictures representing battles, the work of -Gio. Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate; a harness of emeralds; -the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six in length, of massy -gold; in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo II., the bass-relievo -is of precious stones, his breeches covered with diamonds; the moldings -of this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with -jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription, -in rubies: - - "_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiā Magnus Dux Etrurię ex voto._" - -There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an -infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice, in copper, set up -on a column by Cosmo, in 1555, after the victory over Sienna, we were -told that the Duke, asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he -answered, that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for poor -men to come at it. - -Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collection of -paintings, especially a St. Catherine of P. Veronese; a Venus of marble, -veiled from the middle to the feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman -who made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good, -and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about -Bologna. - -Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities, statues, and -pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteemed as -the most antique in Italy, and many curious manuscripts; his best -paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John, -by Raphael, and an _Ecce Homo_, by Titian. - -The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about with impresses and -devices painted, all of them relating to corn sifted from the bran; the -seats are made like breadbaskets and other rustic instruments used about -wheat, and the cushions of satin, like sacks. - -We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that -piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of naked -figures, the work of Pontormo. On the left hand is the Martyrdom of St. -Laurence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is the tomb of -Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of copper, excellently designed, -standing on two lions' feet, which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. -Over against this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has -a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. Paulus Jovius has -the honor to be buried in the cloister. Behind the choir is the superb -chapel of Ferdinand I., consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a -little hollowed; in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of -paragon, for the statue of the prince now living, all of copper gilt; -above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the Duke, in -letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pavement, and roof, are full -of precious stones united with the moldings, which are also of gilded -copper, and so are the bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle, -with the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine, -agates, onyxes, etc. On the other side are six very large columns of rock -crystal, eight figures of precious stones of several colors, inlaid in -natural figures, not inferior to the best paintings, among which are many -pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond -description. The windows without side are of white marble. The library is -the architecture of Raphael; before the port is a square vestibule of -excellent art, of all the orders, without confusion; the ascent to it -from the library is excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS. -and bound in red, chained; in all about 3,500 volumes, as they told us. - -The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately preserved and -kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance, whereof one is for a ball of -300 pounds weight, and another for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds. - -When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were: for -_pietra-commessa_ (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of various colored -marble, and other more precious stones), Dominico Benetti and Mazotti; -the best statuary, Vincentio Brochi. This statuary makes those small -figures in plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till -one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so rare an art of -bronzing them; I bought four of him. The best painter, Pietro Beretino di -Cortona. - -This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or prostitute, allowed -to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his Holiness -the Pope, but not so much in value. - -[Sidenote: BOLOGNA] - -Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Giovanni and his fellow, -we took horses for Bologna; and, by the way, alighted at a villa of the -Grand Duke's, called Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions, -with a fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a large -meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom a huge rock, -with water running in a small channel, like a cascade; on the other side, -are the gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer -retirement. The inside of the palace may compare with any in Italy for -furniture of tapestry, beds, etc., and the gardens are delicious, and -full of fountains. In the grove sits Pan feeding his flock, the water -making a melodious sound through his pipe; and a Hercules, whose club -yields a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a naked -woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another grotto is Vulcan and -his family, the walls richly composed of corals, shells, copper, and -marble figures, with the hunting of several beasts, moving by the force -of water. Here, having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down a -large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams of water gush -out of pipes concealed underneath, that interchangeably fall into each -other's channels, making a lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on -horseback may ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This -canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most surprising -magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing in the heat of the -summer. At the end of this very long walk, stands a woman in white -marble, in posture of a laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen, -very naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention of M. -Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount Parnassus, where the Muses -played to us on hydraulic organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these -waters came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue of a -giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which stands this villa. -Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a huge colosse of Jupiter -throws out a stream over the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having -in his body a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and -door. - -We took horse and supped that night at Il Ponte, passing a dreadful ridge -of the Apennines, in many places capped with snow, which covers them the -whole summer. We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The next -day we passed through Scarperia, mounting the hills again, where the -passage is so straight and precipitous toward the right hand, that we -climbed them with much care and danger; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a -fort built among the rocks, and defending the confines of the Great -Duke's territories. - -The next day we passed by the Pietramala, a burning mountain. At the -summit of this prodigious mass of hills, we had an unpleasant way to -Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertained with excellent -wine. Hence to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins -about six miles from Bologna. - -Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate in one -of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. It is built -like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The -city is of no great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit -near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli, ascended by -447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly high, is very narrow, and the -more conspicuous from another tower called Garisendi, so artificially -built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall. -It is not now so high as the other; but they say the upper part was -formerly taken down, for fear it should really fall, and do mischief. - -Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called St. Petronius, showing -the intent of the founder, had he gone on. From this, our guide led us to -the schools, which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Dominic's, -where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The stalls, or seats, of -this goodly church have the history of the Bible inlaid with several -woods, very curiously done, the work of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a -friar of that order. Among other relics, they show the two books of -Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas, and -divers other learned persons. To the church joins the convent, in the -quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their -saint. - -Then we went to the palace of the Legate; a fair brick building, as are -most of the houses and buildings, full of excellent carving and moldings, -so as nothing in stone seems to be better finished or more ornamental; -witness those excellent columns to be seen in many of their churches, -convents, and public buildings; for the whole town is so cloistered, that -one may pass from house to house through the streets without being -exposed either to rain or sun. - -Before the stately hall of this palace stands the statue of Paul IV. and -divers others; also the monument of the coronation of Charles V. The -piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only -excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in -copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich vest of cloth of -tissue, and several other ornaments, according to the fashion of his -country, which much pleased me; he was a young handsome person, of the -most stately mien. - -I would fain have seen the library of St. Savior, famous for the number -of rare manuscripts; but could not, so we went to St. Francis, a glorious -pile, and exceedingly adorned within. - -After dinner I inquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom I -brought recommendations from Rome: this learned person invented, or found -out, the composition of the _lapis illuminabilis_, or phosphorus. He -showed me their property (for he had several), being to retain the light -of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a -particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blue color, -like the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The -rest of the afternoon was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a -steep hill on the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and -groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious -retirements I ever saw; art and nature contending which shall exceed; so -as till now I never envied the life of a friar. The whole town and -country to a vast extent are under command of their eyes, almost as far -as Venice itself. In this convent there are many excellent paintings of -Guido Reni; above all, the little cloister of eight faces, painted by -Caracci in _fresco_. The carvings in wood, in the sacristy, are -admirable, as is the inlaid work about the chapel, which even emulates -the best paintings; the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of -the Savior are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things of -Raphael which we could not see. - -In the church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia, by Raphael. As -to other paintings, there is in the church of St. Gregory an excellent -picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, -with several other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. Indeed, -this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido Domenico, and a -virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many excellent -pieces, and imitates Guido so well, that many skillful artists have been -deceived. - -At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by Reni, after the manner -of Caravaggio, but better; and here they showed us that famous piece of -Christ calling St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani has -the whole frieze of his hall painted in _fresco_ by the same hand. - -Many of the religious men nourish those lapdogs which the ladies are so -fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort of spaniels, -whose noses they break when puppies; which, in my opinion, deforms them. - -At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitory of St. -Michael, I found a paper pasted near the window, containing the -dimensions of most of the famous churches in Italy compared with their -towers here, and the length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took. - - -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- - | Braccia[32] | Piede | Canna - | | di Bolognia| | di Roma. - -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- - | | | - St. Pietro di Roma, longo| 284 | 473 | 84 - Cupalo del muro, alta | 210 | 350 | 60 - Torre d'Asinello, alto | 208-4/5 | 348 | 59 pr.^{mi} 6 - Dormitorio de St. Mich. a| | | - Bologn. longo | 254 | 423 | 72-1/2 - -------------------------+-----------+-----------------+-------------- - - [Footnote 32: A measure of half an ell.] - -From hence being brought to a subterranean territory of cellars, the -courteous friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines; and so we -departed to our inn. - -The city is famous also for sausages; and here is sold great quantities -of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, etc., which makes some of -their shops perfume the streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished -ourselves with wash balls, the best being made here, and being a -considerable commodity. This place has also been celebrated for lutes -made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which -were of extraordinary price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle -used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile, -especially in pasturage) are covered with housings of linen fringed at -the bottom, that dangle about them, preserving them from flies, which in -summer are very troublesome. - -[Sidenote: FERRARA] - -From this pleasant city, we proceeded toward Ferrara, carrying with us a -bulletino, or bill of health (customary in all these parts of Italy, -especially in the State of Venice) and so put ourselves into a boat that -was towed with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there -to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial -canals) at each of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the -Castle Bentivoglio, and, about night arrived at an ugly inn called _Mal -Albergo_, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we embarked -and passed that night through the Fens, where we were so pestered with -those flying glow-worms, called _Luccioli_, that one who had never heard -of them, would think the country full of sparks of fire. Beating some of -them down and applying them to a book, I could read in the dark by the -light they afforded. - -Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, where, -before we could gain entrance, our guns and arms were taken from us of -custom, the lock being taken off before, as we were advised. The city is -in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and -streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and church of St. -Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the -palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place -is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Oläo once -Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, -and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a -University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are not many fine -houses in the city, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace, -having an Angel for its sign. - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our -way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets -called Eridanus, where they feign Phęton to have fallen after his rash -attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our -company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me -in this passage, and afterward did me many kindnesses at Venice. We -supped this night at a place called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient -city, Adria, which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles, -having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout vessel, and -through an artificial canal, very straight, we entered the Adige, which -carried us by break of day into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously -by Chioza (a town upon an island in this sea), and Palestina, we came -over against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where our English -merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about seven at night, after we had -stayed at least two hours for permission to land, our bill of health -being delivered, according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we -were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and -then we got to our lodging, which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's -at the Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the -town. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles, and -thirteen julios. - -June, 1645. The next morning, finding myself extremely weary and beaten -with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated -after the eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and -being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal-skin, put on the operator's -hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores, that it cost me one of -the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution -in keeping myself warm for some time after; for, coming out, I -immediately began to visit the famous places of the city; and travelers -who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and -this city well deserved our admiration, being the most wonderfully placed -of any in the world, built on so many hundred islands, in the very sea, -and at good distance from the continent. It has no fresh water except -what is reserved in cistern from rain, and such as is daily brought from -_terra firma_ in boats, yet there was no want of it, and all sorts of -excellent provisions were very cheap. - -It is said that when the Huns overran Italy, some mean fishermen and -others left the mainland, and fled for shelter to these despicable and -muddy islands, which, in process of time, by industry, are grown to the -greatness of one of the most considerable States, considered as a -Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient -Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory, by the -conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candia, Rhodes, -and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatic -Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great -pomp and ceremony, on Ascension-day; the desire of seeing this was one of -the reasons that hastened us from Rome. - -The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which are very -particular, after the eastern fashion), together with the Senate in their -gowns, embarked in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded -Bucentora, environed and followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and -boats, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, -music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the Gulf, the Duke, -at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud -acclamation is echoed from the great guns of the Arsenal, and at the -Liddo. We then returned. - -Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for land -ones, there are many old men in this city who never saw one, or rarely a -horse), we rode up and down the channels, which answer to our streets. -These vessels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of -steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and kept so -exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre; some are adorned with -carving, others lined with velvet (commonly black), with curtains and -tassels, and the seats like couches, to lie stretched on, while he who -rows, stands upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar -bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and turns with -incredible dexterity; thus passing from channel to channel, landing his -fare, or patron, at what house he pleases. The beaks of these vessels are -not unlike the ancient Roman rostrums. - -The first public building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of one -arch over the grand canal, so large as to admit a galley to row under it, -built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty shops, three -ample and stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the two -outmost nobly balustered with the same stone; a piece of architecture -much to be admired. It was evening, and the canal where the Noblesse go -to take the air, as in our Hyde Park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. -There are many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of -gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they affect to lean them -on one side, that one who is not accustomed to it, would be afraid of -over-setting. Here they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other -music, and serenading their mistresses; in another place, racing, and -other pastimes on the water, it being now exceeding hot. - -Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours, frequented by -merchants, but nothing so magnificent; from thence, my guide led me to -the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of the -merchants, especially Germans, have their lodging and diet, as in a -college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da -Castelfranco, and Titian himself. - -Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most delicious streets in -the world for the sweetness of it, and is all the way on both sides -tapestried as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other silks, -which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the first floor, -and with that variety that for near half the year spent chiefly in this -city, I hardly remember to have seen the same piece twice exposed; to -this add the perfumes, apothecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of -nightingales which they keep, that entertain you with their melody from -shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes, you would imagine yourself in -the country, when indeed you are in the middle of the sea. It is almost -as silent as the middle of a field, there being neither rattling of -coaches nor trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and -exceedingly clean, brought us through an arch into the famous piazza of -St. Mark. - -Over this porch stands that admirable clock, celebrated, next to that of -Strasburg, for its many movements; among which, about twelve and six, -which are their hours of Ave Maria, when all the town are on their knees, -come forth the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of -Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter into the clock -by another door. At the top of this turret, another automaton strikes the -quarters. An honest merchant told me that one day walking in the piazza, -he saw the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so forcibly, -as he was stooping his head near the bell, to mend something amiss at the -instant of striking, that being stunned, he reeled over the battlements, -and broke his neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on -pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble, even to the -shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in Europe, being not only -marble, but the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried -in St. Jacomo, at the end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble -range of buildings, are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent -statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is yet much more -Roman-like than the other which regards the sea, and where the church is -placed. The other range is plainly Gothic; and so we entered into St. -Mark's Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely cast -and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted red, on which, upon -great festivals, they hang flags and streamers. The church is also -Gothic; yet for the preciousness of the materials, being of several rich -marbles, abundance of porphyry, serpentine, etc., far exceeding any in -Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid history of -our blessed Savior, composed all of Mosaic over the _facciata_, below -which and over the four chief gates are cast four horses in copper as big -as the life, the same that formerly were transported from Rome by -Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.[33] They -are supported by eight porphyry columns, of very great size and value. -Being come into the church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but -what is precious. The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, -chalcedons, jaspers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also -for the work; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to the -imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand -varieties. The roof is of most excellent Mosaic; but what most persons -admire is the new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of -the church. In the midst of this rich _volto_ rise five cupolas, the -middle very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, eight of -which are of precious marbles: under these cupolas is the high altar, on -which is a reliquary of several sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, -after the Greek manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The -altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculptured the -story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble, -that support it. Behind these, are four other columns of transparent and -true Oriental alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's -Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and notable monuments of -illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals, etc., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and -others: there is likewise a vast baptistry, of copper. Among other -venerable relics is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood -preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is an image of -Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow -striking it they say, there gushed out a torrent of blood. In one of the -corners lies the body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from -the island of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of St. -Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by the Abbot Joachim -(many years before any of them were born). Going out of the church, they -showed us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor -Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, "_super -basiliscum_," etc. The doors of the church are of massy copper. There are -near 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyry and serpentine, -and brought chiefly from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in -their power. At the corner of the church, are inserted into the main wall -four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry; which they say are the -images of four brothers who poisoned one another, by which means were -escheated to the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to -the church. At the other entrance that looks toward the sea, stands in a -small chapel that statue of our Lady, made (as they affirm) of the same -stone, or rock, out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring -Israelites at Horeb, or Meriba. - - [Footnote 33: They were taken away by Bonaparte to Paris; but in - 1815, were sent back to Venice.] - -After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much too dark and -dismal, and of heavy work; the fabric,--as is much of Venice, both for -buildings and other fashions and circumstances,--after the Greeks, their -next neighbors. - -The next day, by favor of the French ambassador, I had admittance with -him to view the Reliquary, called here Tesoro di San Marco, which very -few, even of travelers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full -of presses. There are twelve breastplates or pieces of pure golden armor, -studded with precious stones, and as many crowns dedicated to St. Mark, -by so many noble Venetians, who had recovered their wives taken at sea by -the Saracens; many curious vases of agates; the cap, or coronet, of the -Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it, esteemed worth -200,000 crowns; two unicorns' horns; numerous vases and dishes of agate, -set thick with precious stones and vast pearls; divers heads of Saints -enchased in gold; a small ampulla, or glass, with our Savior's blood; a -great morsel of the real cross; one of the nails; a thorn; a fragment of -the column to which our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard or -ensign, of Constantine; a piece of St. Luke's arm; a rib of St. Stephen; -a finger of Mary Magdalen; numerous other things, which I could not -remember. But a priest, first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with -the stole about his neck, showed us the gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar -patron) written by his own hand, and whose body they show buried in the -church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago. - -The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo Veronese, -especially the Magdalen. - -A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the Senate -House, and Ducal Palace. The first court near this church is almost -wholly built of several colored sorts of marble, like checkerwork on the -outside; this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but -observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are -alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where merchants meet morning and -evening, as also the grave senators and gentlemen, to confer of state -affairs, in their gowns and caps, like so many philosophers; it is a very -noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood two square -columns of white marble, carved, which they said had been erected to hang -one of their Dukes on, who designed to make himself Sovereign. Going -through a stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues of -great value, among which is the so celebrated Eve, esteemed worth its -weight in gold; it is just opposite to the stairs where are two -Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor -built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice; and by a -well-contrived staircase were landed in the Senate hall, which appears to -be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europe, being seventy-six -paces long, and thirty-two in breadth. At the upper end, are the -Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants: in the body of the -hall, are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1,500 Senators; for -they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the -paintings of the Final Judgment, by Tintoret, esteemed among the best -pieces in Europe. On the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic, -painted by several excellent masters, especially Bassano; next them, are -the effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then, we turned -into a great Court painted with the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent -piece; afterward, into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the -most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favor of an -Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armory of the Palace, -and so to the same court we first entered, nobly built of polished white -marble, part of which is the Duke's Court, _pro tempore_; there are two -wells adorned with excellent work in copper. This led us to the seaside, -where stand those columns of ophite stone in the entire piece, of a great -height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus: these -pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius, the -architect; between them public executions are performed. - -Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island of St. George, -the galleys, gondolas, and other vessels passing to and fro, we walked -under the cloister on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most -magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the -_Zecca_, or mint; at the entrance, stand two prodigious giants, or -Hercules, of white marble; we saw them melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, -and copper. We then went up into the Procuratory, and a library of -excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After this, we -climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might have done on horseback, -as it is said one of the French Kings did; there being no stairs, or -steps, but returns that take up an entire square on the arches forty -feet, broad enough for a coach. This steeple stands by itself, without -any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the corner of the -great piazza, 230 feet in height, the foundation exceeding deep; on the -top, is an angel, that turns with the wind; and from hence is a prospect -down the Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the -surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of the sea, -in the shape of a lute, the numberless islands tacked together by no -fewer than 450 bridges. At the foot of this tower, is a public tribunal -of excellent work, in white marble polished, adorned with several brass -statues and figures of stone and mezzo-relievo, the performance of some -rare artist. - -It was now Ascension-week, and the great mart, or fair, of the whole year -was kept, everybody at liberty and jolly; the noblemen stalking with -their ladies on _choppines_. These are high-heeled shoes, particularly -affected by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep them at -home, it being very difficult to walk with them; whence, one being asked -how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they were "_mezzo carne, mezzo -legno_," half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth -is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other -habits also totally different from all nations. They wear very long, -crisp hair, of several streaks and colors, which they make so by a wash, -disheveling it on the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole -to put out their heads by; they dry them in the sun, as one may see them -at their windows. In their tire, they set silk flowers and sparkling -stones, their petticoats coming from their very arm-pits, so that they -are near three quarters and a half apron; their sleeves are made -exceedingly wide, under which their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly -tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked arms, through false -sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of point -richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of their body, which -they usually cover with a kind of yellow veil of lawn, very transparent. -Thus attired, they set their hands on the heads of two matron-like -servants, or old women, to support them, who are mumbling their beads. It -is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their gondolas, -by reason of their _choppines_; and what dwarfs they appear, when taken -down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, -stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or -the citizens, may not wear _choppines_, but cover their bodies and faces -with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which -they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being -otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this -habit; but go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils hang -broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice. The married women go -in black veils. The nobility wear the same color, but a fine cloth lined -with taffeta, in summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the -winter, which all put on at a certain day, girt with a girdle embossed -with silver, the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts -wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, made like a sack, cast over their -left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is -not so comely; they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond -button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearls for color -and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear, most of the noble -families being very rich in jewels, especially pearls, which are always -left to the son, or brother who is destined to marry; which the eldest -seldom do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, etc. -of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the strange -variety of the several nations seen every day in the streets and piazzas; -Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with -their targets and bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negotiating -in this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with strangers. - -This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before we went to -the Opera, where comedies and other plays are represented in recitative -music, by the most excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with -variety of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of perspective, -and machines for flying in the air, and other wonderful notions; taken -together, it is one of the most magnificent and expensive diversions the -wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes -changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, and -reputed the best treble of women; but there was an eunuch who, in my -opinion, surpassed her; also a Genoese that sung an incomparable bass. -This held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, when we went -to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their ladies at -basset, a game at cards which is much used; but they play not in public, -and all that have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking -one word, and so they come in, play, lose or gain, and go away as they -please. This time of license is only in carnival and this Ascension-week; -neither are their theatres open for that other magnificence, or for -ordinary comedians, save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and -wise people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws. - -There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had resolved -to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and other parts of Syria, Egypt -and Turkey; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to -cool our drink, bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a -little cabinet of drugs in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof Captain -Powell was master), happened to be pressed for the service of the State, -to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacked by the Turks; which -altogether frustrated my design, to my great mortification. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -On the ... of June, we went to Padua, to the fair of their St. Anthony, -in company of divers passengers. The first _terra firma_ we landed at was -Fusina, being only an inn where we changed our barge, and were then drawn -up by horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even as a -line for twenty miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorned with -country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with oranges, -figs, and other fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas -we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observable in this -passage was buying their water of those who farm the sluices; for this -artificial river is in some places so shallow, that reserves of water are -kept with sluices, which they open and shut with a most ingenious -invention, or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up the -water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled by the stop, -or abated to the level of the other; for which every boat pays a certain -duty. Thus, we stayed near half an hour and more, at three several -places, so as it was evening before we got to Padua. This is a very -ancient city, if the tradition of Antenor's, being the founder, be not a -fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately gate: - - "_Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum - fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit, anno ante - Christum natum M. Cxviii; Senatus autem Venetus his belli - propugnaculis ornavit._" - -The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is generally -built like Bologna, on arches and on brick, so that one may walk all -around it, dry, and in the shade; which is very convenient in these hot -countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I -was this season, especially the next day, which was that of the fair, -filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and solemn procession -to their famous cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo, I met with this -subscription: - - "_Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem - Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga, - Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, - Quem tegit hic humili marmore cęsa domus._" - -Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now come to St. Antony's -(the street most of the way straight, well built, and outside excellently -painted in _fresco_), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is -erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one -Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _ą la Greca_, consists of -five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. -Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles -ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three -famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieronymus -Compagno. A little higher is the choir, walled parapet-fashion, with -sundry colored stone, half relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar -within is of the same metal, which, with the candlestick and bases, is, -in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of the choir -is rarely inlaid and carved. Here are the sepulchres of many famous -persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, etc.; and among the rest, one for an -exploit at sea, has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession -bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which was a very -fine sight. - -Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see the convent of -St. Justina, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The church -is an excellent piece of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, -with a stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the ashes of -that saint. It is of _pietra-commessa_, consisting of flowers very -naturally done. The choir is inlaid with several sorts of wood -representing the holy history, finished with exceeding industry. At the -far end, is that rare painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo -Veronese; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians -had been decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister -well painted) is a dry well, covered with a brass-work grate, wherein are -the bones of divers martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an -old alabaster coffin; three of the Holy Innocents; and the bodies of St. -Maximus and Prosdocimus.[34] The dormitory above is exceedingly -commodious and stately; but what most pleased me, was the old cloister so -well painted with the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient -inscriptions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation of -the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next -day to Venice. - - [Footnote 34: St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua.] - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -The arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnished in the world. We -entered by a strong port, always guarded, and, ascending a spacious -gallery, saw arms of back, breast, and head, for many thousands; in -another were saddles; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. Another -hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing a graff, are the smiths' -forges, where they are continually employed on anchors and iron work. -Near it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's -horns which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever being -empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters were building their -magazines of oars, masts, etc., for an hundred galleys and ships, which -have all their apparel and furniture near them. Then the foundry, where -they cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has -thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, weighing 16,573 pounds, cast -while Henry the Third dined, and put into a galley built, rigged, and -fitted for launching within that time. They have also arms for twelve -galeasses, which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty -wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain twenty-eight banks of oars, -each seven men, and to carry 1,300 men, with three masts. In another, a -magazine for fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here stands -the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contrived that the slaves -are not seen, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to sit, when he -goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200 -yards long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. Opposite these, -are the saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells, or houses, to -protect their galleys from the weather. Over the gate, as we go out, is a -room full of great and small guns, some of which discharge six times at -once. Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grapples, -grenadoes, etc., and over that arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves -arms for 400, taken from some that were in a plot against the state; -together with weapons of offense and defense for sixty-two ships; -thirty-two pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and one -prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be reckoned up what this -large place contains of this sort. There were now twenty-three galleys, -and four galley-grossi, of 100 oars to a side. The whole arsenal is -walled about, and may be in compass about three miles, with twelve towers -for the watch, besides that the sea environs it. The workmen, who are -ordinarily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive -their pay through a small hole in the gate where the governor lives. - -The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had murdered his master, for -which he had his head chopped off by an ax that slid down a frame of -timber, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at the -sea-brink; the executioner striking on the ax with a beetle; and so the -head fell off the block. - -Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is -excellent work. Indeed, the world cannot show a city of more stately -buildings, considering the extent of it, all of square stone, and as -chargeable in their foundations as superstructure, being all built on -piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the church of St. Johanne -and Paulo, before which is, in copper, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone, -on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea -Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine church, and has in it many -rare altarpieces of the best masters, especially that on the left hand, -of the Two Friars slain, which is of Titian. - -The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to the ceremony -of the schismatic Greeks, who are permitted to have their church, though -they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many -painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. Their rites -differ not much from the Latins, save that of communicating in both -species, and distribution of the holy bread. We afterward fell into a -dispute with a Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. The -church is a noble fabric. - -The church of St. Zachary is a Greek building, by Leo IV., Emperor, and -has in it the bones of that prophet, with divers other saints. Near this, -we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretin. - -Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa Maria, newly -incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyry, ophite, -and Spartan stone. Near the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, -that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul -I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the -Evangelist, where among other heroes, lies Andrea Baldarius, the inventor -of oars applied to great vessels for fighting. - -We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the school, or hall, of -that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoretto, especially the -Crucifix in the _sacristia_. We saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and -Carmelites' monastery. - -Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to the island of St. -George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well-built -church of Andrea Palladio, the great architect. The pavement, cupola, -choir, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a fine -garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though this is an island a -little distant from the city; it has also an olive orchard, all environed -by the sea. The new cloister now building has a noble staircase paved -with white and black marble. - -From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and St. Laurence, fair churches in -several islands; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani, in -St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid -work, etc. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on the following day, we -visited the market, which is plentifully furnished, and exceedingly -cheap. Here we saw the great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of -the most magnificent in Europe; its ascent is by steps a good height, of -a reddish marble polished, much used in these parts, and happily found -not far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and forty in breadth, all -covered with lead, without any support of columns. At the further end -stands the bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In this -town is the house wherein he was born, full of inscriptions, and pretty -fair. - -Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on the ceiling the -celestial zodiac, and other astronomical figures; without side, there is -a corridor, in manner of a balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry -of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert -Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is -the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all, -the Monte Pietą, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. -This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in -Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer -sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines -for deposit of goods, till redeemed. - -Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient University, -especially for the study of physic and anatomy. They are fairly built in -quadrangle, with cloisters beneath, and above with columns. Over the -great gate are the arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. -Mark. - - _Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies - Patrię Christianęq; Republicę utilior evadas; ita demłm Gymnasium ą - te felicitčr se ornatum existimabit._ - - CIC.IX. - -About the court walls, are carved in stone and painted the blazons of the -Consuls of all the nations, that from time to time have had that charge -and honor in the University, which at my being there was my worthy friend -Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree. - -The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are above, but none -of them comparable, or so much frequented, as the theater for anatomy, -which is excellently contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I -was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoon (30th July) received -my _matricula_, being resolved to spend some months here at study, -especially physic and anatomy, of both which there were now the most -famous professors in Europe. My _matricula_ contained a clause, that I, -my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all tolls and -reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy, or sell, without any -toll, etc. - -The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely furnished with -plants, and gave order to the gardener to make me a collection of them -for an _hortus hyemalis_, by permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslingius, -then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy. - -This morning, the Earl of Arundel,[35] now in this city, a famous -collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see -the garden of Mantua, where, as one enters, stands a huge _colosse_ of -Hercules. From hence to a place where was a room covered with a noble -cupola, built purposely for music; the fillings up, or cove, between the -walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better sounding; it was -also well painted. After dinner, we walked to the Palace of Foscari all' -Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, though -serving now for a court only before the house. There were now kept in it -two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, a stag, and sundry fowls, as in -a vivary. - - [Footnote 35: The celebrated Thomas, Earl of Arundel, part of whose - collection was eventually procured for the University of Oxford by - Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name _Marmora Arundeliana_.] - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over to Murano, famous -for the best glasses in the world, where having viewed their furnaces, -and seen their work, I made a collection of divers curiosities and -glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. It is the white flints -they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly small, and -mix with ashes made of a seaweed brought out of Syria, and a white sand, -that causes this manufacture to excel. The town is a Podestaria by -itself, at some miles distant on the sea from Venice, and like it, built -on several small islands. In this place, are excellent oysters, small and -well tasted like our Colchester, and they were the first, as I remember, -that I ever could eat; for I had naturally an aversion to them. - -At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full of Venetian ladies, -who come thus far in fine weather to take the air, with music and other -refreshments. Besides that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and -has divers noblemen's palaces in it, and handsome gardens. - -In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher and St. Michael, -the last of which has a church enriched and incrusted with marbles and -other architectonic ornaments, which the monks very courteously showed -us. It was built and founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona, a famous -courtesan, who purchased a great estate, and by this foundation hoped to -commute for her sins. We then rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose -church, with the monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us -awhile; and then got home. - -The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was to embark toward -Turkey, invited me on board, lying about ten miles from Venice, where we -had a dinner of English powdered beef and other good meat, with store of -wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner, the Captain -presented me with a stone he had lately brought from Grand Cairo, which -he took from the mummy-pits, full of hieroglyphics; I drew it on paper -with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr. Henshaw to -communicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting forth his great work -"Obeliscus Pamphilius," where it is described, but without mentioning my -name. The stone was afterward brought for me into England, and landed at -Wapping, where, before I could hear of it, it was broken into several -fragments, and utterly defaced, to my no small disappointment. - -The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and foot of a mummy, the -nails whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold, and the whole -body was perfect, when he brought it out of Egypt; but the avarice of the -ship's crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them. He -presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some loaves of the bread -which the Coptics use in the Holy Sacrament, with other curiosities. - -8th August, 1645. I had news from Padua of my election to be _Syndicus -Artistarum_, which caused me, after two days idling in a country villa -with the Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge -myself of that honor, because it was not only chargeable, but would have -hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place, -which did not well please my countrymen, who had labored not a little to -do me the greatest honor a stranger is capable of in that University. -Being freed from this impediment, and having taken leave of Dr. Janicius, -a Polonian, who was going as physician in the Venetian galleys to Candia, -I went again to Venice, and made a collection of several books and some -toys. Three days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied hard till -the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some other English gentlemen -whom I had left at Rome, and who made me go back to Venice, where I spent -some time in showing them what I had seen there. - -26th September, 1645. My dear friend, and till now my constant -fellow-traveler, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to return to England upon -his particular concern, and who had served his Majesty in the wars, I -accompanied him part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice. - -29th September, 1645. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest -son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy person) to see the -collection of a noble Venetian, Signor Rugini. He has a stately palace, -richly furnished with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in -an ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both Latin and -Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair pearls in two of them; -but, above all, he abounded in things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which -the yoke rattled, a pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a whole -hedgehog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and very -perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levity, sponges, -and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with innumerable more. In another -cabinet, supported by twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about -with crystal, he showed us several noble intįglios of agate, especially a -head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare cornelians, -onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of which was a drop of water not -congealed, but moving up and down, when shaken; above all, a diamond -which had a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber, wherein -were several insects, in particular one cut like a heart that contained -in it a salamander without the least defect, and many pieces of mosaic. -The fabric of this cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, -turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which was an -antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very rarely cut, and -comparable to the greatest curiosity I had ever seen of that kind for the -accurateness of the work. The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with -agates, crystals, cornelians, lazuli, etc., esteemed worth 16,000 crowns, -but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are of forged iron gilded, -since it is impossible to keep the wooden ones from the cimices. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was so infested with -soldiers, that many houses were broken open in the night, some murders -committed, and the nuns next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced -to be on our guard with pistols and other firearms to defend our doors; -and indeed the students themselves take a barbarous liberty in the -evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all that pass by the -house where any of their companions in folly are with them. This custom -they call _chi vali_, so as the streets are very dangerous, when the -evenings grow dark; nor is it easy to reform this intolerable usage, -where there are so many strangers of several nations. - -Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as the manner here is, I -was so afflicted with an angina and sore throat, that it had almost cost -me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor -here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being called, -made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four places; which began -to give me breath, and consequently life; for I was in the utmost danger; -but, God being merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again, -when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo Pinto; where I -bought for winter provision 3,000 weight of excellent grapes, and pressed -my own wine, which proved incomparable liquor. - -This was on 10th of October. Soon after came to visit me from Venice Mr. -Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to -the Lord Chief Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another part -of the city to lodge near St. Catherine's over against the monastery of -nuns, where we hired the whole house, and lived very nobly. Here I -learned to play on the theorb, taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who -had a daughter married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung to nine -several instruments, with that skill and address as few masters in Italy -exceeded her; she likewise composed divers excellent pieces: I had never -seen any play on the Naples viol before. She presented me afterward with -two recitativos of hers, both words and music. - -31st October, 1645. Being my birthday, the nuns of St. Catherine's sent -me flowers of silkwork. We were very studious all this winter till -Christmas, when on Twelfth-day, we invited all the English and Scots in -town to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -1645-46. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but the -extreme snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to see the -solemnity, so as I stirred not from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the -world repair to Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival; the -women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising themselves in -antique dresses, with extravagant music and a thousand gambols, -traversing the streets from house to house, all places being then -accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet -water, but sometimes not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom of -hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is very dangerous, the -passages being generally narrow. The youth of the several wards and -parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes, so that it is -impossible to recount the universal madness of this place during this -time of license. The great banks are set up for those who will play at -bassett; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are open; witty -pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have their stages at every -corner. The diversions which chiefly took me up was three noble operas, -where were excellent voices and music, the most celebrated of which was -the famous Anna Rencia, whom we invited to a fish dinner after four days -in Lent, when they had given over at the theater. Accompanied with an -eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us with rare music, -both of them singing to a harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of -Venice came for her, to show her the galleys, now ready to sail for -Candia. This entertainment produced a second, given us by the English -consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house, where he had the -Genoese, the most celebrated bass in Italy, who was one of the late opera -band. This diversion held us so late at night, that, conveying a -gentlewoman who had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of -landing, we were shot at by two carbines from another gondola, in which -were a noble Venetian and his courtesan unwilling to be disturbed, which -made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, -till we were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing it -farther. - -Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and went to Padua, to -be present at the famous anatomy lecture, celebrated here with -extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole month. During this time, -I saw a woman, a child, and a man dissected with all the manual -operations of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one was performed by -Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athelsteninus Leonoenas, of whom I -purchased those rare tables of veins and nerves, and caused him to -prepare a third of the lungs, liver, and nervi _sexti par_: with the -gastric veins, which I sent into England, and afterward presented to the -Royal Society, being the first of that kind that had been seen there, -and, for aught I know, in the world, though afterward there were others. -When the anatomy lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went -to see cures done in the hospitals; and certainly as there are the -greatest helps and the most skillful physicians, so there are the most -miserable and deplorable objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I -should think, so powerful an argument against the vice reigning in this -licentious country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor creatures -undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended, and with extraordinary -charity. - -20th March, 1646. I returned to Venice, where I took leave of my friends. - -22d March, 1646. I was invited to excellent English potted venison, at -Mr. Hobbson's, a worthy merchant. - -23d March, 1646. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince of -Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going as -commander to Candia; and, in the afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my -merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me -his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious, and of good -value. - -The next day, I was conducted to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell -together in as a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage. The -bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chair, and covered with a -white veil; then two old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding -a glass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the ceremony, -pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the breaking whereof was -to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must expect disasters -and crosses amid all enjoyments. This done we had a fine banquet, and -were brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed up with -flowers, and the counterpane strewn in works. At this ceremony, we saw -divers very beautiful Portuguese Jewesses, with whom we had some -conversation. - -I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his confessor, and -obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions; without which I -was not to travel, in this pompous form: - - "_Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Seńor Le - Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, - Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, - Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su - Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y - Alemania, y a esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, etc. Haviendo - de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn - Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para los Estates - de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmando de mi mano, y - sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los - menestros de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son, - supplico les dare passar libramente sin permitir que se le haya - vexation alguna antes mandar le las favor para continuar su viage. - Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo del an'o 1646._ - - _Mar. de la Fuentes, etc._" - -Having packed up my purchases of books, pictures, casts, treacle, etc. -(the making an extraordinary ceremony whereof I had been curious to -observe, for it is extremely pompous and worth seeing), I departed from -Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated poet), now newly -gotten out of England, after the Parliament had extremely worried him for -attempting to put in execution the commission of Array, and for which the -rest of his colleagues were hanged by the rebels. - -The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua, and receiving some -directions from Dr. Salvatico as to the care of my health, I prepared for -my journey toward Milan. - -It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Earl of -Arundel's. I took my leave of him in his bed, where I left that great and -excellent man in tears on some private discourse of crosses that had -befallen his illustrious family, particularly the undutifulness of his -grandson Philip turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal of Norfolk), and -the misery of his country now embroiled in civil war. He caused his -gentleman to give me directions, all written with his own hand, what -curiosities I should inquire after in my journey; and, so enjoining me to -write sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for me below, Mr. Henry -Howard (afterward Duke of Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm -Digby, and other gentlemen, who conducted me to the coach. - -The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes, so as to -emulate the best diamonds, rubies, etc., were Marco Terrasso and Gilbert. - - An account of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my - coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua: - - 11th Aug., 1645 200 - 7th Sept. 135 - 1st Oct. 100 - 15th Jan., 1646 100 - 23d April 300 - --- - 835 Ducati di Banco. - -In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray (son of Sir -Christopher, whose father had been in arms against his Majesty, and -therefore by no means welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned -man, we got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, -celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we -found growing about them. The ways were something deep, the whole country -flat and even as a bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are -orderly planted with fruit trees, which the vines run and embrace, for -many miles, with delicious streams creeping along the ranges. - -Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining to the -Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which the famous -Palladio, born here, has exceedingly contributed, having been the -architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of -excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order; those in the -three upper corridors are Doric; under them, are shops in a spacious -piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler -design, _ą la moderne_. The next morning, we visited the theater, as -being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Palladio, -in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and capable of containing 5,000 -spectators. The scene, which is all of stone, represents an imperial -city, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is -inscribed: "_Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc ą -fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584_." The scene declines eleven -feet, the _soffito_ painted with clouds. To this there joins a spacious -hall for solemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the -piazza is also the _podesta_, or governor's house, the _facciata_ being -of the Corinthian order, very noble. The piazza itself is so large as to -be capable of jousts and tournaments, the nobility of this city being -exceedingly addicted to this knight-errantry, and other martial -diversions. In this place are two pillars in imitation of those at St. -Mark's at Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the other the statue -of St. John the Baptist. - -In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces than any of its -dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished (but -of stately design) by reason of the domestic dissensions between them and -those of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combining, they -might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For this reason, also, -are permitted those disorders and insolences committed at Padua among the -youth of these two territories. It is no dishonor in this country to be -some generations in finishing their palaces, that without exhausting -themselves by a vast expense at once, they may at last erect a sumptuous -pile. Count Oleine's Palace is near perfected in this manner. Count -Ulmarini is more famous for his gardens, being without the walls, -especially his _cedrario_, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my -paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all the way by their -intermixing branches for more than 200 of my single paces, and which -being full of fruit and blossoms, was a most delicious sight. In the -middle of this garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender -pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without and within, -that nothing was to be perceived but green; between the arches there -dangled festoons of the same. Here is likewise a most inextricable -labyrinth. - -I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and ingenious -apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. I -would fain have visited a palace, called the Rotunda, which was a mile -out of town, belonging to Count Martio Capra; but one of our companions -hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save drinking and -folly, caused us to take coach sooner than we should have done. - -A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio, set out in imitation -of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles exercised their horses, and the -ladies make the Corso; it is entered by a stately triumphal arch, the -invention of Palladio. - -[Sidenote: VERONA] - -Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined at Ostaria Nova, and -came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto, just over the -monument of the Scalageri,[36] formerly princes of Verona, adorned with -many devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name. - - [Footnote 36: Or della Scala.] - -Early next morning, we went about the city, which is built on the gentle -declivity, and bottom of a hill, environed in part with some considerable -mountains and downs of fine grass, like some places in the south of -England, and, on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius -overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst by the river -Adige, over which are divers stately bridges, and on its banks are many -goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in _chiaro-oscuro_ on the -outside, as are divers in this dry climate of Italy. - -The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder, too, was the -amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remains now extant. The -inhabitants call it the ARENA: it has two porticos, one within the other, -and is thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-two ranks -of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the top. The vastness of the -marble stones is stupendous. "_L. V. Flaminius, Consul. anno. urb. con. -liii._" This I esteem to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it -is so vast and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many other public -buildings for above 1,400 years. - -There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius; temples, -aqueducts, etc., showing still considerable remains in several places of -the town, and how magnificent it has formerly been. It has three strong -castles and a large and noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely -built, especially the Senate house, where we saw those celebrated statues -of Cornelius Nepos, Ęmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having -honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius Cęsar Scaliger, -that prodigy of learning. - -In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa where are walks -cut out of the main rock, from whence we had a pleasant prospect of -Mantua and Parma, though at great distance. At the entrance of this -garden, grows the goodliest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a -pyramid; it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, entirely -covered, and thick to the base. - -Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, among other rarities, a St. Dorothea, -of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especially of Parmensis, -belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account of his absence. - -Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honored it with; for in my -opinion, the situation is the most delightful I ever saw, it is so -sweetly mixed with rising ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with -trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn, -for the vines reach from tree to tree; here, of all places I have seen in -Italy, would I fix a residence. Well has that learned man given it the -name of the very eye of the world: - - "_Oscelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli, - Flos Urbium, flos cornicuumq' amoenum, - Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona._" - -The next morning we traveled over the downs where Marius fought and -fancied ourselves about Winchester, and the country toward Dorsetshire. -We dined at an inn called Cavalli Caschieri, near Peschiera, a very -strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and near the Lago di Garda, which -disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles in length, highly -spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as the most pleasant spot in Italy, -for which reason I observed it with the more diligence, alighting out of -the coach, and going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a -gentleman's country-house, from whence indeed it presents a most -surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings about it produce -oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other tempting fruits, and the waters -abound in excellent fish, especially trouts. In the middle of this lake -stands Sermonea, on an island; here Captain Wray bought a pretty nag of -the master of our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, -our hostess, was so unwilling to part with, that she did nothing but kiss -and weep and hang about the horse's neck, till the captain rode away. - -[Sidenote: BRESCIA] - -We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traversed, -according to our custom, in search of antiquities and new sights. Here, I -purchased of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine -pistoles, this city being famous for these firearms, and that workman, -Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city consists most in artists, -every shop abounding in guns, swords, armorers, etc. Most of the workmen -come out of Germany. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle is -built on a hill. The streets abound in fair fountains. The Torre della -Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and the Senate house is inferior to -few. The piazza is but indifferent; some of the houses arched as at -Padua. The Cathedral was under repair. We would from hence have visited -Parma, Piacenza, Mantua, etc.; but the banditti and other dangerous -parties being abroad, committing many enormities, we were contented with -a Pisgah sight of them. - -We dined next day, at Ursa Vecchia, and, after dinner, passed by an -exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called Ursa Nova, on their -frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and so by Sonano, where we enter the -Spanish dominions, and that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to -Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, and -so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with an ample piazza. - -[Sidenote: MILAN] - -Early next day, after four miles' riding, we entered into the State of -Milan, and passed by Lodi, a great city famous for cheese, little short -of the best Parmeggiano. We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming -to Milan, where we met half a dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet did us -no harm. Then, passing as through a continual garden, we went on with -exceeding pleasure; for it is the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as -even and straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with -fruit about the inclosures, vines to every tree at equal distances, and -watered with frequent streams. There was likewise much corn, and olives -in abundance. At approach of the city, some of our company, in dread of -the Inquisition (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing -away some Protestant books and papers. We arrived about three in the -afternoon, when the officers searched us thoroughly for prohibited goods; -but, finding we were only gentlemen travelers, dismissed us for a small -reward, and we went quietly to our inn, the THREE KINGS, where, for that -day, we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next morning, we -delivered our letters of recommendation to the learned and courteous -Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the -remarkable places of the town, the first of which was the famous -Cathedral. We entered by a portico, so little inferior to that of Rome -that, when it is finished, it will be hard to say which is the fairest; -the materials are all of white and black marble, with columns of great -height, of Egyptian granite. The outside of the church is so full of -sculpture, that you may number 4,000 statues, all of white marble, among -which that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The church is -very spacious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. -About the choir, the sacred Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white -marble, nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the church -are the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in the vault beneath is his -body before the high altar, grated, and inclosed, in one of the largest -crystals in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is -all of marble within and without, and even covered with great planks of -marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are most beautifully painted. -Here are two very fair and excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the -midst of a fair piazza, and in the center of the city. - -Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quadrangle, -the architecture of Theobaldi, who designed much for Philip II. in the -Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence, into the Governor's Palace, -who was Constable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapestries and -pictures, I adventured so far alone, that peeping into a chamber where -the great man was under the barber's hands, he sent one of his negroes (a -slave) to know what I was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was -only admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his lord, I -heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on which I retired with all -the speed I could, passed the guard of Swiss, got into the street, and in -a moment to my company, who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, which in -truth is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern. After -dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, -built by Bramante; the carvings of the marble _facciata_ are by Annibal -Fontana, whom they esteem at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In -a room joining to the church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse, of the -same sculptor's work, which they will not expose to the air. There are -two _sacristias_, in one of which is a fine Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; -in the other is one of Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world -admires. The Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and -embroidered copes, which are kept in presses. - -Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular cloister of a -vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 50,000 -crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a cross building for the -sick, and, just under it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places -of the Infirmary. - -There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for by -the same Borromeo and his nephew, the last Cardinal Frederico, some not -yet finished, but of excellent design. - -In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies of the three -Magi, since translated to Cologne in Germany; they, however, preserve the -tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star, and, under -it, "_Sepulchrum trium Magorum_." - -Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of marble, and the ruins -of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing: - - "_Imp. Cęsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi - Tribi Pot. VII. Impi IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi - Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervę - Abnepoti Dec. Dec._" - -We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of Madonna delle -Grazie, and in the refectory admired that celebrated _Coena Domini_ of -Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the -same that the great virtuoso, Francis I., of France, was so enamored of, -that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding it about with ribs -of iron and timber, to convey it into France. It is indeed one of the -rarest paintings that was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in the -service of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King, coming to visit -him in his old age and sickness, he expired in his arms. But this -incomparable piece is now exceedingly impaired. - -Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to visit us, and took -us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Library, where Cardinal Fred -Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing -with curiosities, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable value -among painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest artists. There are -many rare things of Hans Breugel, and among them the Four Elements. In -this room, stands the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero -Galeazzo Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several drawings by -Da Vinci; but these we could not see, the keeper of them being out of -town, and he always carrying the keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who -had seen them, told me all but one book are small that a huge folio -contained 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, etc. But whereas the -inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered £1,000 for -them,--the truth is, and my Lord himself told me, that it was he who -treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the name and by permission of the -King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the -bargain; but my Lord, having seen them since, did not think them of so -much worth. - -In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the right hand of the -door, is a small wainscot closet, furnished with rare manuscripts. Two -original letters of the Grand Signor were shown us, sent to two Popes, -one of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia], and the other -mentioning the head of the lance which pierced our Blessed Savior's side, -as a present to the Pope: I would feign have gotten a copy of them, but -could not; I hear, however, that they are since translated into Italian, -and that therein is a most honorable mention of Christ. - -We revisited St. Ambrose's church. The high altar is supported by four -porphyry columns, and under it lie the remains of that holy man. Near it -they showed us a pit, or well (an obscure place it is), where they say -St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine, and recited the _Te Deum_; for so -imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils that -have been held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings and -Emperors, receiving the iron crown from the Archbishop of this see.[37] -They show the History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The high -altar is wonderfully rich. - - [Footnote 37: Bonaparte afterward took it, and placed it on his own - head.] - -Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe: it has no suburbs, -but is circled with a stately wall for ten miles, in the center of a -country that seems to flow with milk and honey. The air is excellent; the -fields fruitful to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of -provisions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 monasteries, and 40,000 -inhabitants; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, full of -sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especially for works in crystal, -which is here cheap, being found among the Alps. They have curious -straw-work among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good river, and a -citadel at some small distance from the city, commanding it, of great -strength for its works and munitions of all kinds. It was built by -Galeatius II., and consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and -fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth; has two -strong towers as one enters, and within is another fort, and spacious -lodgings for the soldiers, and for exercising them. No accommodation for -strength is wanting, and all exactly uniform. They have here also all -sorts of work and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and provisions. The -fosse is of spring water, with a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts -vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vasques Coronada was now Governor; the -garrison Spaniards only. - -There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Signor -Septalla, a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendom for his -learning and virtues. Among other things, he showed us an Indian wood, -that has the perfect scent of civet; a flint, or pebble, that has a -quantity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being clear as -agate; divers crystals that have water moving in them, some of them -having plants, leaves, and hog's bristles in them; much amber full of -insects, and divers things of woven amianthus. - -Milan is a sweet place, and though the streets are narrow, they abound in -rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every -night. Walking a turn in the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who -passed by, hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while -earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant, desiring we would -honor him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, -he not speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with thanks, -though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed what might be the meaning -of it in this jealous place; but on inquiry, it was told us he was a -Scots Colonel, who had an honorable command in the city, so that we -agreed to go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an opera -represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in excellent music with -rare scenes, in which there acted a celebrated beauty. - -Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant again to -conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace, richly -furnished. There were other guests, all soldiers, one of them a -Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he -excused his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us; telling us it -was his custom, when he heard of any English travelers (who but rarely -would be known to pass through that city for fear of the Inquisition), to -invite them to his house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous -dinner; and the wine was so tempting, that after some healths had gone -about, and we had risen from the table, the Colonel led us into his hall, -where there hung up divers colors, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other -arms, being trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the -enemy; among them, he would needs bestow a pair of pistols on Captain -Wray, one of our fellow-travelers, and a good drinking gentleman, and on -me a Turkish bridle woven with silk and very curiously embossed, with -other silk trappings, to which hung a half moon finely wrought, which he -had taken from a bashaw whom he had slain. With this glorious spoil, I -rode the rest of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterward -into England. He then showed us a stable of brave horses, with his menage -and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caused to be brought out, which he -mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman. When -this was done, and he had alighted,--contrary to the advice of his groom -and page, who knew the nature of the beast, and that their master was a -little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse that had not yet -been managed and was very ungovernable, but was otherwise a very -beautiful creature; this he mounting, the horse, getting the reins in a -full _carriere_, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing -the Colonel so forcibly against the wall of the menage, that though he -sat on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the jade on all fours again, he -desired to be taken down and so led in, where he cast himself on a -pallet; and, with infinite lamentations, after some time we took leave of -him, being now speechless. The next morning, going to visit him, we found -before the door the canopy which they usually carry over the host, and -some with lighted tapers; which made us suspect he was in a very sad -condition, and so indeed we found him, an Irish Friar standing by his -bedside as confessing him, or at least disguising a confession, and -other ceremonies used _in extremis_; for we afterward learned that the -gentleman was a Protestant, and had this Friar, his confidant; which was -a dangerous thing at Milan, had it been but suspected. At our entrance, -he sighed grievously, and held up his hands, but was not able to speak. -After vomiting some blood, he kindly took us all by the hand, and made -signs that he should see us no more, which made us take our leave of him -with extreme reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad -disaster made us consult about our departure as soon as we could, not -knowing how we might be inquired after, or engaged, the Inquisition being -so cruelly formidable and inevitable, on the least suspicion. The next -morning, therefore, discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to -carry us to the foot of the Alps, not a little concerned for the death of -the Colonel, which we now heard of, and who had so courteously -entertained us. - -The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a considerable -river into Lago Maggiore; here, at dinner, were two or three Jesuits, who -were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declined conversation with -as decently as we could; so we pursued our journey through a most -fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and uncomfortable. At night, we -lay at Sesto. - -The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in a boat to carry us -over the lake (being one of the largest in Europe), and whence we could -see the towering Alps, and among them the great San Bernardo, esteemed -the highest mountain in Europe, appearing to be some miles above the -clouds. Through this vast water, passes the river Ticinus, which -discharges itself into the Po, by which means Helvetia transports her -merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to leave behind us. - -Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled ashore at Arona, a -strong town belonging to the Duchy of Milan, where, being examined by the -Governor, and paying a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this -fort, is Angiera, another small town, the passage very pleasant with the -prospect of the Alps covered with pine and fir trees, and above them -snow. We passed the pretty island Isabella, about the middle of the -lake, on which is a fair house built on a mount; indeed, the whole island -is a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set above with -orange and citron trees. - -[Sidenote: ISOLA] - -The next we saw was Isola, and we left on our right hand the Isle of St. -Jovanni; and so sailing by another small town built also on an island, we -arrived at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, -and at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were suddenly -after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in the world, and -where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature had here swept up -the rubbish of the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of -Lombardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming from Venice. In -this wretched place, I lay on a bed stuffed with leaves, which made such -a crackling and did so prick my skin through the tick, that I could not -sleep. The next morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we could not -get horses; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied with a loop to put our -feet in, which supplied the place of other trappings. Thus, with my -gallant steed, bridled with my Turkish present, we passed through a -reasonably pleasant but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo, where -we rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the Governor would press -another on us, that his secretary might get a crown. Here we exchanged -our asses for mules, sure-footed on the hills and precipices, being -accustomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought that night -through very steep, craggy, and dangerous passages to a village called -Vedra, being the last of the King of Spain's dominions in the Duchy of -Milan. We had a very infamous wretched lodging. - -The next morning we mounted again through strange, horrid, and fearful -crags and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and only inhabited by bears, -wolves, and wild goats; nor could we anywhere see above a pistol shot -before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains, whose -tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies, and in many places -pierced the clouds. Some of these vast mountains were but one entire -stone, between whose clefts now and then precipitated great cataracts of -melted snow, and other waters, which made a terrible roaring, echoing -from the rocks and cavities; and these waters in some places breaking in -the fall, wet us as if we had passed through a mist, so as we could -neither see nor hear one another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we -jogged on our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only by -felling huge fir trees, and laying them athwart from mountain to -mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth, are very dangerous, and so -are the passages and edges made by cutting away the main rock; others in -steps; and in some places we pass between mountains that have been broken -and fallen on one another; which is very terrible, and one had need of a -sure foot and steady head to climb some of these precipices, besides that -they are harbors for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted -travelers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now freezing in the -snow, and anon frying by the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs -as we descend lower, when we meet now and then a few miserable cottages -so built upon the declining of the rocks, as one would expect their -sliding down. Among these, inhabit a goodly sort of people, having -monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing to their throats, some of -which I have seen as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under -their chins; among the women especially, and that so ponderous, as that -to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about their head, and coming -under the chin to support it; but _quis tumidum guttur miratur in -Alpibus?_ Their drinking so much snow water is thought to be the cause of -it; the men using more wine, are not so strumous as the women. The truth -is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many great water drinkers -here have not these prodigious tumors; it runs, as we say, in the blood, -and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shriveled and -deformed, by its drawing the skin of the face down, that nothing can be -more frightful; to this add a strange puffing dress, furs, and that -barbarous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French, and -Italian. The people are of great stature, extremely fierce and rude, yet -very honest and trusty. - -[Sidenote: MOUNT SAMPION] - -This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we came in prospect of -Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its summit a few huts -and a chapel. Approaching this, Captain Wray's water spaniel (a huge -filthy cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a herd of goats -down the rocks into a river made by the melting of the snow. Arrived at -our cold harbor (though the house had a stove in every room) and supping -on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in cupboards so -high from the floor, that we climbed them by a ladder; we were covered -with feathers, that is, we lay between two ticks stuffed with them, and -all little enough to keep one warm. The ceilings of the rooms are -strangely low for those tall people. The house was now (in September) -half covered with snow, nor is there a tree, or a bush, growing within -many miles. - -From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten away the next -morning; but, as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young fellow -demanding money for a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray's dog had -killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying in the cold, -we set spurs and endeavored to ride away, when a multitude of people -being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sunday morning -and attending for the priest to say mass), they stopped our mules, beat -us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our carbines, drew us into one -of the rooms of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus we continued -prisoners till mass was ended, and then came half a score grim Swiss, -who, taking on them to be magistrates, sat down on the table, and -condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat, and ten more for attempting -to ride away, threatening that if we did not pay it speedily, they would -send us to prison, and keep us to a day of public justice, where, as they -perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pretended we had -primed our carbines and would have shot some of them (as indeed the -Captain was about to do), we might have had our heads cut off, as we were -told afterward, for that among these rude people a very small misdemeanor -does often meet that sentence. Though the proceedings appeared highly -unjust, on consultation among ourselves we thought it safer to rid -ourselves out of their hands, and the trouble we were brought into; and -therefore we patiently laid down the money, and with fierce countenances -had our mules and arms delivered to us, and glad we were to escape as we -did. This was cold entertainment, but our journey after was colder, the -rest of the way having been (as they told us) covered with snow since the -Creation; no man remembered it to be without; and because, by the -frequent snowing, the tracks are continually filled up, we passed by -several tall masts set up to guide travelers, so as for many miles they -stand in ken of one another, like to our beacons. In some places, where -there is a cleft between two mountains, the snow fills it up, while the -bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen arch of snow, and that -so hard as to bear the greatest weight; for as it snows often, so it -perpetually freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flawed the very -skin of my face. - -Beginning now to descend a little, Captain Wray's horse (that was our -sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging through a bank of loose -snow, slid down a frightful precipice, which so incensed the choleric -cavalier, his master, that he was sending a brace of bullets into the -poor beast, lest our guide should recover him, and run away with his -burden; but, just as he was lifting up his carbine, we gave such a shout, -and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging -through the snow, he fell from another steep place into another bottom, -near a path we were to pass. It was yet a good while ere we got to him, -but at last we recovered the place, and, easing him of his charge, hauled -him out of the snow, where he had been certainly frozen in, if we had not -prevented it, before night. It was as we judged almost two miles that he -had slid and fallen, yet without any other harm than the benumbing of his -limbs for the present, but, with lusty rubbing and chafing he began to -move, and, after a little walking, performed his journey well enough. All -this way, affrighted with the disaster of this horse, we trudged on foot, -driving our mules before us; sometimes we fell, sometimes we slid, -through this ocean of snow, which after October is impassible. Toward -night, we came into a larger way, through vast woods of pines, which -clothe the middle parts of these rocks. Here, they were burning some to -make pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we do to make -charcoal, reserving what melts from them, which hardens into pitch. We -passed several cascades of dissolved snow, that had made channels of -formidable depth in the crevices of the mountains, and with such a -fearful roaring as we could hear it for seven long miles. It is from -these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, which pass through all France -and Germany, derive their originals. Late at night, we got to a town -called Briga, at the foot of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost every -door had nailed on the outside and next the street a bear's, wolf's, or -fox's head, and divers of them, all three; a savage kind of sight, but, -as the Alps are full of the beasts, the people often kill them. The next -morning, we returned to our guide, and took fresh mules, and another to -conduct us to the Lake of Geneva, passing through as pleasant a country -as that we had just traveled was melancholy and troublesome. A strange -and sudden change it seemed; for the reverberation of the sunbeams from -the mountains and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above -two flight-shots in breadth, for a very great number of miles, renders -the passage excessively hot. Through such extremes we continued our -journey, that goodly river, the Rhone, gliding by us in a narrow and -quiet channel almost in the middle of this Canton, fertilizing the -country for grass and corn, which grow here in abundance. - -[Sidenote: SION] - -We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city, a bishop's seat, -and the head of Valesia. There is a castle, and the bishop who resides in -it, has both civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the -custom of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had -been a Colonel in France: he treated us with extreme civility, and was so -displeased at the usage we received at Mount Sampion, that he would needs -give us a letter to the Governor of the country, who resided at St. -Maurice, which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront. This was -a true old blade, and had been a very curious virtuoso, as we found by a -handsome collection of books, medals, pictures, shells, and other -antiquities. He showed two heads and horns of the true capricorn, which -animal he told us was frequently killed among the mountains; one branch -of them was as much as I could well lift, and near as high as my head, -not much unlike the greater sort of goat's, save that they bent forward, -by help whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence -the inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak prodigious things of -their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing, -notwithstanding their being cloven-footed, unapt (one would think) to -take hold and walk so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The -Colonel would have given me one of these beams, but the want of a -convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to refuse his courtesy. -He told me that in the castle there were some Roman and Christian -antiquities, and he had some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited -us to his country-house, where he said he had better pictures, and other -rarities; but, our time being short, I could not persuade my companions -to stay and visit the places he would have had us see, nor the offer he -made to show us the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts. The -next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty well-fashioned -young woman, with a small ruby ring, we parted somewhat late from our -generous host. - -Passing through the same pleasant valley between the horrid mountains on -either hand, like a gallery many miles in length, we got to Martigni, -where also we were well entertained. The houses in this country are all -built of fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The -people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very odd fashion, for the -most part in blue cloth, very whole and warm, with little variety of -distinction between the gentleman and common sort, by a law of their -country being exceedingly frugal. Add to this their great honesty and -fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part with: I saw not one -beggar. We paid the value of twenty shillings English, for a day's hire -of one horse. Every man goes with a sword by his side, the whole country -well disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such -ill success against them; one lusty Swiss at their narrow passages is -sufficient to repel a legion. It is a frequent thing here for a young -tradesman, or farmer, to leave his wife and children for twelve or -fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain, France, Italy, -or Germany, and then return again to work. I look upon this country to be -the safest spot of all Europe, neither envied nor envying; nor are any of -them rich, nor poor; they live in great simplicity and tranquillity; -and, though of the fourteen Cantons half be Roman Catholics, the rest -reformed, yet they mutually agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and -are its only security against its potent neighbors, as they themselves -are from being attacked by the greater potentates, by the mutual jealousy -of their neighbors, as either of them would be overbalanced, should the -Swiss, who are wholly mercenary and auxiliaries, be subjected to France -or Spain. - -[Sidenote: BEVERETTA] - -[Sidenote: GENEVA] - -We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome town and residence -of the President, where justice is done. To him we presented our letter -from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had received for killing a -wretched goat, which so incensed him, that he swore if we would stay he -would not only help us to recover our money again, but most severely -punish the whole rabble; but our desire of revenge had by this time -subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so near France, which we reckoned -as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him; but we -excused ourselves, and, returning to our inn, while we were eating -something before we took horse, the Governor had caused two pages to -bring us a present of two great vessels of covered plate full of -excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded the youths; -they were two vast bowls supported by two Swiss, handsomely wrought after -the German manner. This civility and that of our host at Sion, perfectly -reconciled us to the highlanders; and so, proceeding on our journey we -passed this afternoon through the gate which divides the Valais from the -Duchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so, through Montei, -we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being extremely weary and -complaining of my head, and finding little accommodation in the house, I -caused one of our hostess's daughters to be removed out of her bed and -went immediately into it while it was yet warm, being so heavy with pain -and drowsiness that I would not stay to have the sheets changed; but I -shortly after paid dearly for my impatience, falling sick of the smallpox -as soon as I came to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the -tale the good woman told me of her daughter having had an ague, I -afterward concluded she had been newly recovered of the smallpox. -Notwithstanding this, I went with my company, the next day, hiring a bark -to carry us over the lake; and indeed, sick as I was, the weather was so -serene and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that never -had travelers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed the whole length of the -lake, about thirty miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) -affording one of the most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps -covered with snow, though at a great distance, yet showing their aspiring -tops. Through this lake, the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as -not to mingle with its exceeding deep waters, which are very clear, and -breed the most celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of any in -Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet in length sold in the -market for a small price, and such we had in the lodging where we abode, -which was at the White Cross. All this while, I held up tolerably; and -the next morning having a letter for Signor John Diodati, the famous -Italian minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I -went to his house, and had a great deal of discourse with that learned -person. He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deal, -while sailing for Holland, that he had seen London, and was exceedingly -taken with the civilities he received. He so much approved of our -Church-government by Bishops, that he told me the French Protestants -would make no scruple to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a king -of the Reformed religion as we had. He exceedingly deplored the -difference now between his Majesty and the Parliament. After dinner, came -one Monsieur Saladine, with his little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, to -visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of the town; but, -being now no more able to hold up my head, I was constrained to keep my -chamber, imagining that my very eyes would have dropped out; and this -night I felt such a stinging about me, that I could not sleep. In the -morning, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor, he persuaded me to be -bled. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said, he had been -physician to Gustavus the Great, King of Sweden, when he passed this way -into Italy, under the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of -Gustavus Adolphus Rex Suecię, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on -his returning out of Italy. He afterward acknowledged that he should not -have bled me, had he suspected the smallpox, which broke out a day after. -He afterward purged me, and applied leeches, and God knows what this -would have produced, if the spots had not appeared, for he was thinking -of bleeding me again. They now kept me warm in bed for sixteen days, -tended by a vigilant Swiss matron, whose monstrous throat, when I -sometimes awakened out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the -pimples were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to pain, -but infinitely afflicted with heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, after -five weeks' keeping my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his -lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my physician, to excuse -his letting me bleed, told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would -have proved the plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded by any other -method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Monsieur -Saladine's, and in the afternoon went across the water on the side of the -lake, and took a lodging that stood exceedingly pleasant, about half a -mile from the city for the better airing; but I stayed only one night, -having no company there, save my pipe; so, the next day, I caused them to -row me about the lake as far as the great stone, which they call -NEPTUNE'S ROCK, on which they say sacrifice was anciently offered to him. -Thence, I landed at certain cherry gardens and pretty villas by the side -of the lake, and exceedingly pleasant. Returning, I visited their -conservatories of fish; in which were trouts of six and seven feet long, -AS THEY AFFIRMED. - -The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst dips into a cavern -underground, about six miles from it, and afterward rises again, and runs -its open course, like our Mole, or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The -next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, many -of that country, especially of Lucca, his native place, being inhabitants -of Geneva, and of the Reformed religion. - -The town lying between Germany, France, and Italy, those three tongues -are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. It is a strong, well-fortified -city, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, -but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloisters, being -all of wood), through which the people pass dry and in the shade, winter -and summer, exceedingly deform the fronts of the buildings. Here are -abundance of booksellers; but their books are of ill impressions; these, -with watches (of which store are made here), crystal, and excellent -screwed guns, are the staple commodities. All provisions are good and -cheap. - -The town-house is fairly built of stone; the portico has four black -marble columns; and, on a table of the same, under the city arms, a -demi-eagle and cross, between cross-keys, is a motto, "POST TENEBRAS -LUX," and this inscription: - - _Quum anno 1535 profligatā Romanā Anti-Christi Tyrannide, - abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hģc - in suam puritatem, Ecclesiā in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei - beneficio repositā, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa - in suam libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; - Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuę memorię causā - fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum - gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit._ - -The territories about the town are not so large as many ordinary -gentlemen have about their country farms, for which cause they are in -continual watch, especially on the Savoy side; but, in case of any siege -the Swiss are at hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, -toward the street: - - D.O.M.S. - - _Anno a verā Religione divinitūs cum veteri Libertate Genevę - restitutā, et quasi novo Jubilęo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et - forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum - Primari Tigurini ęquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum - venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo - adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti, - beneficii monumentum consecrārunt, anno temporis ultimi_ - CC[~C~].I[~C~].XXXIV. - -In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were -removing earth in the fortifications. - -A little out of the town is a spacious field, which they call Campus -Martius; and well it may be so termed, with better reason, than that at -Rome at present (which is no more a field, but all built into streets), -for here on every Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise -people permit their youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, and in the -long and cross bows, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be -as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they yearly -elect him who has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the -king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears that weapon in his -hat in gold, with a crown over it made fast to the hat like a brooch. In -this field, is a long house wherein their arms and furniture are kept in -several places very neatly. To this joins a hall, where, at certain -times, they meet and feast; in the glass windows are the arms and names -of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field, is a very noble -Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a -tavern, and a trey-table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It is -also the usual place of public execution of those who suffer for any -capital crime, though committed in another country, by which law divers -fugitives have been put to death, who have fled hither to escape -punishment in their own country. Among other severe punishments here, -adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a game at mall, I -supped with Mr. Saladine. - -On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the French -mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat on. The Church Government is -severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set -it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of -that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, a most learned -young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of the University, -preached at St. Peter's, a spacious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a -cathedral and a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which -stands a continual sentinel; in another cannons are mounted. The church -is very decent within; nor have they at all defaced the painted windows, -which are full of pictures of saints; nor the stalls, which are all -carved with the history of our Blessed Savior. - -In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen exercise in Mars' -Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that -some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I -first saw huge ballistę, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they -formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in -frames, and had great screws to bend them, doing execution at an -incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket, -rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine I -brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot, I found them go -into a long house, and cleanse their guns, before they charged again. - -On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without the works, where were -many rare tulips, anemones, and other choice flowers. The Rhone, running -athwart the town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, in -imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, and it has a -church of the same name. On two wooden bridges that cross the river are -several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; -between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient -tower, said to have been built by Julius Cęsar. At the end of the other -bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial. - -Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile hanging in -chains; and against the wall of one of the chambers, seven judges were -painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but one hand; I -know not the story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well -furnished and kept. - -After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair structure; in the -lower part are the schools, which consist of nine classes; and a hall -above, where the students assemble; also a good library. They showed us a -very ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, and a -MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Professors their -lodgings. I also went to the Hospital, which is very commodious; but the -Bishop's Palace is now a prison. - -This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women, for, even at this -distance from the Alps, the gentlewomen have somewhat full throats; but -our Captain Wray (afterward Sir William, eldest son of that Sir -Christopher, who had both been in arms against his Majesty for the -Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's -daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be prevailed on to -think on his journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot. - -My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles of gold to my -host, and five to my honest doctor, who for six weeks' attendance and the -apothecary thought it so generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he -presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written with -his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much observed, and I bless God -passed the journey without inconvenience from sickness, but it was an -extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the -craggy ways. - -5th July, 1646. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it could not be -brought back against the stream of the Rhone. We were two days going to -Lyons, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near the -town down a very steep declivity of water for a full mile. From Lyons, we -proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at -Feurs. At Roanne we indulged ourselves with the best that all France -affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful, so as the -supper we had might have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask beds, and -were treated like emperors. The town is one of the neatest built in all -France, on the brink of the Loire; and here we agreed with an old fisher -to row us as far as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, -early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits' -College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it -nobly built. - -The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant -from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had -followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the -Governor's pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great -displeasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities. - -[Sidenote: ORLEANS] - -The next day we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of which I -reckon my share came to little less than twenty leagues. Sometimes, we -footed it through pleasant fields and meadows; sometimes, we shot at -fowls, and other birds; nothing came amiss: sometimes, we played at -cards, while others sung, or were composing verses; for we had the great -poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and some other ingenious persons. - -At Orleans we abode but one day; the next, leaving our mad Captain behind -us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that, after so many disasters and -accidents in a tedious peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and -here I resolved to rest myself before I went further. - -It was now October, and the only time that in my whole life that I spent -most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soon recovered -my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and -Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and such -exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in much reputation -among the sober Italians. - -28th January, 1647. I changed my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de -Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains; and thence, on the 12th of -February, to another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, -which cost me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a course of -Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure operating upon most of the -nobler processes. March 3d, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the -lute, though to small perfection. - -In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes; for which I was four times -let bleed. - -22d May, 1647. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes and plate, to the -value of three score pounds; but, through the diligence of Sir Richard -Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose -lady and family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly set -my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, obtaining of the -Judge, with no small difficulty, that the process against the thief -should not concern his life, being his first offense. - -10th June, 1647. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I went -to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his court, -to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his chaplains (since Dean of -Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury), that he would -accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on Thursday, 27th of June, -1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, between the hours of -eleven and twelve, some few select friends being present. And this being -Corpus Christi feast, was solemnly observed in this country; the streets -were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and strewed with flowers. - -10th September, 1647. Being called into England, to settle my affairs -after an absence of four years, I took leave of the Prince and Queen, -leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and -prudent mother. - -4th October, 1647. I sealed and declared my will, and that morning went -from Paris, taking my journey through Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. -Vallerie, where I stayed one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some -affairs, and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I -arrived on the 11th, and that night embarking in a packet boat, was by -one o'clock got safe to Dover; for which I heartily put up my thanks to -God who had conducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to me -through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I arrived at London the -next day at evening, being the 2d of October, new style. - -[Sidenote: WOTTON] - -5th October, 1647. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my -brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court where I had the honor to kiss -his Majesty's hand, and give him an account of several things I had in -charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not -long after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Sergeant Hatton's at Thames -Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to London. - -14th October, 1647. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my -house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my wife's uncle, who had charge of it -and the estate about it, during my father-in-law's residence in France. -On the 15th, I again occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple. - -9th November, 1647. My sister opened to me her marriage with Mr. -Glanville. - -14th January, 1647-48. From London I went to Wotton to see my young -nephew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst], to visit my brother Richard. - -5th February, 1648. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the cockpit, after there -had been none of these diversions for many years during the war. - -28th February, 1648. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy -(afterward Lord Downe), to Thistleworth, where we dined with Sir Clepesby -Crew, and afterward to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, and -rounds of plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, -who has some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian -hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water colors, by Breughel, -which I bought for him. - -26th April, 1648. There was a great uproar in London, that the rebel army -quartering at Whitehall, would plunder the City, on which there was -published a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. - -4th May, 1648. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agreement between his -Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men addressed the Parliament -for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's -guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South -Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000. - -30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being -at the head of them. Their first rendezvous was in Broome-field, next my -house at Sayes Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to -Colchester, where was that memorable siege. - -27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of -my brother George, for £3,300. - -1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, -to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. - -10th July, 1648. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers being -slain by the rebels near Kingston. - -16th August, 1648. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my -brother, Richard, who married the daughter and coheir of Esquire Minn, -lately deceased; by which he had a great estate both in land and money on -the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bridegroom were, -was overturned in coming home; but no harm was done. - -28th August, 1648. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the celebrated -follies of Bartholomew Fair. - -16th September, 1648. Came my lately married brother, Richard, and his -wife, to visit me, when I showed them Greenwich, and her Majesty's -Palace, now possessed by the rebels. - -28th September, 1648. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of Arundel, -and returned to Wotton. - -31st October, 1648. I went to see my manor of Preston Beckhelvyn, and the -Cliffhouse. - -29th November, 1648. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and Lady Gerrard, -christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn, -by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate -which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it-- - - IN MEMORIAM FACTI. - - ANNO CIC IX. XLIIX. CAL. DECEM. VIII. VIRGINUM CASTISS: XTIANORUM - INNOCENTIS: NEPT: SUAVIS: MARIĘ. JOHAN. EVELYNUS AVUNCULUS ET - SUSCEPTOR VASCULUM HOC CUM EPIGRAPHE L. M. Q. D. - AVE MARIA GRATIĀ SIS PLENA; DOMINUS TECUM. - -2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott for £3,400 to one -Mr. Bridges. - -13th December, 1648. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and -endeavored to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty; but were surprised -by the rebel army; the members dispersed, and great confusion every where -in expectation of what would be next. - -17th December, 1648. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel, one -Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -18th December, 1648. I got privately into the council of the rebel army, -at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies. - -This was a most exceedingly wet year, neither frost nor snow all the -winter for more than six days in all. Cattle died every where of a -murrain. - -1st January, 1648-49. I had a lodging and some books at my -father-in-law's house, Sayes Court. - -2d January, 1649. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveler, Mr. -Henshaw, who had two rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective. - -17th January, 1649. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the -rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his Majesty; and saw -that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long after condemned him. - -19th January, 1649. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of -being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night on another vessel -then at anchor, shooting the bridge at three quarters' ebb, for which His -mercy God Almighty be praised. - -21st January, 1649. Was published my translation of Liberty and -Servitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened. - -22d January, 1649. I went through a course of chemistry, at Sayes Court. -Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. - -The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try, condemn, and -murder our excellent King on the 30th of this month, struck me with such -horror, that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be -present at that execrable wickedness; receiving the sad account of it -from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit me this -afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances. - -1st February, 1649. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord -Capell, etc., at their trial before the rebels' NEW COURT OF INJUSTICE. - -15th February, 1649. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich -merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare perspective of -Stenwyck; from thence, to other virtuosos. - -The painter, La Neve has an Andromeda, but I think it a copy after -Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in France. Webb, at the -Exchange, has some rare things in miniature, of Breughel's, also Putti, -in twelve squares, that were plundered from Sir James Palmer. - -At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten, I know not how, -out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old Petit, thought to be Titian's; he -had some good heads of Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an -excellent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr, with other -figures; for now they had plundered, sold, and dispersed a world of rare -paintings of the King's, and his loyal subjects. After all, Sir William -Ducy showed me some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of -Holbein's; Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole-length figure of Edward -VI., which were certainly his Majesty's; also a picture of Queen -Elizabeth; the Lady Isabella Thynne; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, -being a Susanna; and a Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry -VIII., of Holbein; and Francis I., rare indeed, but of whose hand I know -not. - -16th February, 1649. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de -Condé, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter -of consolation to her: and, on the 22d, having recommended Obadiah -Walker, a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel -with, Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court. - -25th February, 1649. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the -lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist. - -26th February, 1649. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn, my kinsman, -the great traveler, and one who believed himself a better architect than -really he was; witness the portico in the Garden at Wotton; yet the great -room at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but -over-built everything. - -27th February, 1649. Came out of France my wife's uncle (Paris still -besieged), being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates: I lost, among -other goods, my wife's picture, painted by Monsieur Bourdon. - -5th March, 1649. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace Yard. - -18th March, 1649. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister, preached -in my parlor, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in -the parish churches, on which the Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped. - -21st March, 1649. I received letters from Paris from my wife, and from -Sir Richard [Browne], with whom I kept up a political correspondence, -with no small danger of being discovered. - -25th March, 1649. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) -in St. Peter's, at Paul's Wharf, London; and, in the morning, the -Archbishop of Armagh, that pious person and learned man, Usher, in -Lincoln's-Inn Chapel. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d April, 1649. To London, and inventoried my movables that had hitherto -been dispersed for fear of plundering: wrote into France, touching my -sudden resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an -excellent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4, v. 26-27. - -My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins, the great -chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries, which I -purchased and caused to be drawn out of several human bodies at Padua. - -11th April, 1649. Received news out of France that peace was concluded; -dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster; and on the 13th I saw a -private dissection at Moulins's house. - -17th April, 1649. I fell dangerously ill of my head; was blistered and -let bleed behind the ears and forehead: on the 23d, began to have ease by -using the fumes of camomile on embers applied to my ears, after all the -physicians had done their best. - -29th April, 1649. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet in -length, and much higher than I could reach. - -12th May, 1649. I purchased the manor of Warley Magna, in Essex: in the -afternoon went to see Gildron's collections of paintings, where I found -Mr. Endymion Porter, of his late Majesty's bedchamber. - -17th May, 1649. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers ladies, -to see the schools, or colleges, of the young gentlewomen. - -19th May, 1649. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had some good -paintings, especially a monk at his beads. - -30th May, 1649. Unkingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's statues -thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the Exchange. - -7th June, 1649. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton[38] (brother to Sir Ralph, -Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been Ambassador extraordinary -in Spain, sojourned some time with my father-in-law at Paris, a most -excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greek lady, whom I knew in -Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentleman. Also, the -Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave of them and other friends now -ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle between some rebel -soldiers and gentlemen about the Temple. - - [Footnote 38: Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord - Hopton (so well known for his services to Charles in the course of - the Civil War).] - -June 10th, 1649. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's-Inn, from -Romans 5, verse 13. I received the blessed Sacrament, preparatory to my -journey. - -13th June, 1649. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen, newly -freed from sentence of death among the lords that suffered. With him was -one Carew, who played incomparably on the Welsh harp; afterward I treated -divers ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. - -This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain at the Hague, the -villain who managed the trial against his sacred Majesty. - -17th June, 1649. I got a pass from the rebel Bradshaw, then in great -power. - -20th June, 1649. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames, to -take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I thought to have -them engraved. - -2d July, 1649. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John -Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts., when I took leave of -both Sir Johns and their ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John -of Wilts' daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother of the -present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes Court this night. - -4th July, 1649. Visited Lady Hatton, her lord sojourning at Paris with my -father-in-law. - -9th July, 1649. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend, Mr. Eaton, -afterward a judge, who corresponded with me in France. - -11th July, 1649. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine historian -and poet; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends to take leave of -me. - -[Sidenote: GRAVESEND] - -12th July, 1649. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars for -Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and sister, Glanville, who -there supped with me and returned; whence I took post immediately to -Dover, where I arrived by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that -night, went on board a barque guarded by a pinnace of eight guns; this -being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy, having -several times before been pillaged. We had a good passage, though chased -for some hours by a pirate, but he dared not attack our frigate, and we -then chased him till he got under the protection of the castle at Calais. -It was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over -with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incomparable writer of several -hands, whom I afterward preferred in the Prerogative Office, at the -return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of -Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left -England _incognito_. At the entrance of the town, the Lieutenant -Governor, being on his horse with the guards, let us pass courteously. I -visited Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gentleman, and walked in the -church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very -fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The citadel seems to -be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laid under water by -sluices for many miles. - -16th July, 1649. We departed from Paris, in company with that very -pleasant lady, Lady Catherine Scott, and others. In all this journey we -were greatly apprehensive of parties, which caused us to alight often out -of our coach and walk separately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, -in all suspected places. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -1st August, 1649. At three in the afternoon we came to St. Denis, saw the -rarities of the church and treasury; and so to Paris that evening. - -The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord High Treasurer -Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor, Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary -of State, Sir George Carteret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having -now been absent from my wife above a year and a half. - -18th August, 1649. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's hand; in -the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went Mrs. Barlow, the King's -mistress[39] and mother to the Duke of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, -bold, but insipid creature. - - [Footnote 39: The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of - Richard Walters, Esq., of Haverfordwest. She had two children by the - King; James, subsequently so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and - Mary, whose lot was obscure in comparison with that of her brother, - but of course infinitely happier. She married a Mr. William - Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William Fanshawe, Esq.] - -19th August, 1649. I went to salute the French King and the Queen -Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's coaches with my -Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since -Lord Croftes. - -7th September, 1649. Went with my wife and dear Cousin to St. Germains, -and kissed the Queen-Mother's hand; dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord -Hatton. Divers of the great men of France came to see the King. The next -day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to see the -President Maison's palace, built castle-wise, of a milk-white fine -freestone; the house not vast, but well contrived, especially the -staircase, and the ornaments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry -moat, the offices under ground, the gardens very excellent with -extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble prospect toward the -forest, and on the Seine toward Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows, -walks, river, forest, corn-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything -in Italy to exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has pulled -down a whole village to make room for his pleasure about it. - -12th September, 1649. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majesty's -chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, -preached. - -13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince of Condé to supper at -St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in the tennis court, -where I saw a famous match between Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, -and so returned to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a -dignity I often declined. - -1st October, 1649. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterward Sir Samuel), to -see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel; and, after dinner, to talk with -the poor ignorant and superstitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to -Paris. - -2d October, 1649. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir William) and -the Duke's secretary, etc., to visit me. - -5th October, 1649. Dined with Sir George Ratcliffe, the great favorite of -the late Earl of Stratford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. - -7th October, 1649. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton, -governess to Madame. - -15th October, 1649. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the rebels, and -all put to the sword, which made us very sad, forerunning the loss of all -Ireland. - -21st October, 1649. I went to hear Dr. d'Avinson's lecture in the -physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect of that -excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus. - -30th October, 1649. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober -English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was -interred in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our church, which -was said before in our chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried -the great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like a -fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I returned to Paris with -Sir Philip Musgrave, and Sir Marmaduke Langdale, since Lord -Langdale.--Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal autumn. - -5th November, 1649. I received divers letters out of England, requiring -me to come over about settling some of my concerns. - -7th November, 1649. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) -preached in our chapel on Matthew 4, verse 3. - -18th November, 1649. I went with my father-in-law to see his audience at -the French Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio, he was introduced by the -master of ceremonies, and, after delivery of his credentials, as from our -King, since his father's murder, he was most graciously received by the -King of France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience. This was -in the Palais Cardinal. - -After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Queen Regent I went to -see the house built by the late great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most -observable thing is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most -illustrious persons and single actions in France, with innumerable -emblems between every table. In the middle of the gallery, is a neat -chapel, rarely paved in work and devices of several sorts of marble, -besides the altar-piece and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, -the other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apartments are -rarely gilded and carved, with some good modern paintings. In the -presence hang three huge branches of crystal. In the French King's -bedchamber, is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a -chamber like a movable box, with a rich embroidered bed. The fabric of -the palace is not magnificent, being but of two stories; but the garden -is so spacious as to contain a noble basin and fountain continually -playing, and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract it. -So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a bull-baiting, and -returned home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paul, the Prince -Elector's agent. - -19th November, 1649. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an -English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse about religion. - -28th December, 1649. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed St. Stephen's -church; the building, though Gothic, is full of carving; within it is -beautiful, especially the choir and winding stairs. The glass is well -painted, and the tapestry hung up this day about the choir, representing -the conversion of Constantine, was exceedingly rich. - -I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his instruction about -some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his book. - -I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn thanks to -Almighty God.[40] - - [Footnote 40: This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every - year, but it will not always be necessary here to insert it.] - -29th December, 1649. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir George -Radcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor that they had provided -no gossips, so as several of us drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of -Peterborough (Dr. Cousin) officiating: we named it Andrew, being on the -eve of that Apostle's day. - -1st January, 1649-50. I began this Jubilee with the public office in our -chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterward -Lord Keeper. - -18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of Condé and his brother -carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. - -6th February, 1650. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro, one of the -Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of great name for his -knowledge in that art, to visit my wife, and sung before divers persons -of quality in my chamber. - -1st March, 1650. I went to see the masquerados, which was very fantastic; -but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. - -13th March, 1650. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy, where -divers of the French and English noblesse, especially my Lord of Ossory, -and Richard, sons to the Marquis of Ormond (afterward Duke), did their -exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spectators -and great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. - -25th April, 1650. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace so called, -built by Francis I. It is observable only for its open manner of -architecture, being much of terraces and galleries one over another to -the very roof; and for the materials, which are mostly of earth painted -like porcelain, or China-ware, whose colors appear very fresh, but is -very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this pottery, -chimney-pieces, and columns both within and without. Under the chapel is -a chimney in the midst of a room parted from the _Salle des Gardes_. The -house is fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista toward -the Bois de Boulogne and river. - -30th April, 1650. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor, -Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought some prints; -and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape graver. - -3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the operation of -cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years old underwent the -operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing great joy when -he saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty -God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this deplorable -infirmity. - -7th May, 1650. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my wife, -together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory and his brother, to -Vamber, a place near the city famous for butter; when, coming homeward, -being on foot, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden, -who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil language; on which our -young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bade him ask pardon, -which he did with much submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone -far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming with guns, -swords, staves, and forks, and who followed, flinging stones; on which, -we turned, and were forced to engage, and with our swords, stones, and -the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for -near a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where we were -besieged, and at length forced to submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton, -with some others, were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship -was confined under three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's -master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one -of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nōtre -Dame. Several of us were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, -caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. -Immediately afterward, came Monsieur St. Germain himself, in great wrath, -on hearing that his housekeeper was assaulted; but when he saw the King's -officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident and -understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the -fellow's pardon, and desiring the ladies to accept their submission and a -supper at his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, -guarded by Prince Griffith (a Welsh hero going under that name, and well -known in England for his extravagancies), together with the scholars of -two academies, who came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and -would fain have alarmed the town we received the affront from: which, -with much ado, we prevented. - -12th May, 1650. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court of France of -the affront we had received, the President was ordered to ask pardon of -Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make submission, -and be dismissed. There came along with him the President de Thou, son of -the great Thuanus [the historian], and so all was composed. But I have -often heard that gallant gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that -in all the conflicts he was ever in at sea or on land (in the most -desperate of both which he had often been), he believed he was never in -so much danger as when these people rose against us. He used to call it -the _bataile de Vambre_, and remember it with a great deal of mirth as an -adventure, _en cavalier_. - -24th May, 1650. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at -the ring where were many brave horses, gallants, and ladies, my Lord -Stanhope entertaining us with a collation. - -12th June, 1650. Being Trinity Sunday, the Dean of Peterborough preached; -after which there was an ordination of two divines, Durell and Brevent -(the one was afterward Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very -learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great gravity, -after a pious and learned exhortation declaring the weight and dignity of -their function, especially now in a time of the poor Church of England's -affliction. He magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object, -viz, the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God; producing many -human instances of the transitoriness and vanity of all other dignity; -that of all the triumphs the Roman conquerors made, none was comparable -to that of our Blessed Savior's, when he led captivity captive, and gave -gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by which his faithful and -painful ministers triumphed over Satan as often as they reduced a sinner -from the error of his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They -were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the altar, the -Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so were made both Deacons and -Priests at the same time, in regard to the necessity of the times, there -being so few Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a -failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the Communion. This -was all performed in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, at Paris. - -13th June, 1650. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was -afterward made a knight by the French King for his art. He engraved my -picture in copper. At a future time he presented me with my own picture, -done all with his pen; an extraordinary curiosity. - -21st June, 1650. I went to see the Samaritan, or pump, at the end of the -Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising no great matter, is, -besides the machine, furnished with innumerable rarities both of art and -nature; especially the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, -growing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of -crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals and marcasites, -with two great conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crowns at -Amsterdam. He showed us many landscapes and prospects, very rarely -painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon; divers antiquities -and relievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside of the amphitheater -of Titus, incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clere himself; two boys and -three skeletons, molded by Fiamingo; a book of statues, with the pen -made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which one may discover many -errors in the _taille-douce_ of Perrier, who has added divers conceits of -his own that are not in the originals. He has likewise an infinite -collection of _taille-douces_, richly bound in morocco. - -He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have entertained a prince, -with pictures of the greatest masters, especially a Venus of Perino del -Vaga; the Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of -porcelain, and many designed by Raphael; some paintings of Poussin, and -Fioravanti; antiques in brass; the looking-glass and stands rarely -carved. In a word, all was great, choice, and magnificent, and not to be -passed by as I had often done, without the least suspicion that there -were such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future visit, he -showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn through the battlements of -the arches of Pont Neuf into a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so -that the coaches and horses thundered over our heads. - -[Sidenote: CALAIS] - -27th June, 1650. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and other -friends, took horse for England, paying the messenger eight pistoles for -me and my servant to Calais, setting out with seventeen in company -well-armed, some Portuguese, Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains -and officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next day, to Beauvais, -and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached Abbeville; next, -dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company on foot (being now -within the inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day's -journey from St. Omers and the frontiers), which we drew very near to, -ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were ordered and -led by a captain of our train; but, as we were on the speed, they called -out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among -them armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. The next day, -we marched in good order, the passage being now exceeding dangerous, and -got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it -made the skin peel off. - -I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about three in the -afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hearing there was a pirate then -also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair -S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would -have us to the mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we -were dismissed. - -Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that -afternoon our trunks were visited. - -The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my -Lady Catherine Scott, whom that very day twelve months before I met at -sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far -off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at -Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave -of my lady about four the next morning. - -5th July, 1650. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one -Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great -chemist. - -Sunday 7th July, 1650. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was -doing among the Rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went -thither, and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; -thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad. - -17th July, 1650. I went to London to obtain a pass,[41] intending but a -short stay in England. - - [Footnote 41: A copy of it is subjoined. "These are to will and - require you to permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, - Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and other necessaries, - into any port of France without any your lets or molestations, of - which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your - sufficient warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this - 25th of June, 1650. - - "Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, - appointed by authority of Parliament, - JO. BRADSHAWE, President. - - "To all Customers, Comptrollers and Searchers, and all other - officers of the Ports, or Customs." - - Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing; - "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] - M[emory."] Its endorsement, also in his writing, is, "The Pass from - the Council of State, 1650."] - -25th July, 1650. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and -my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who -took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the state, as then -called. - -4th August, 1650. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, -wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. - -6th August, 1650. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an -excellent copy of Titian. - -12th August, 1650. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so -that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and -having only an antiquated pass, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear -of them though not without extraordinary hazard, having before -counterfeited one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of -the rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, -money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal -of Bradshawe himself, where I had not so much as my trunk opened. - -[Sidenote: CALAIS] - -13th August, 1650. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind -not favorable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about one -o'clock; about five in the morning, we had a long boat to carry us to -land, though at a good distance; this we willingly entered, because two -vessels were chasing us; but, being now almost at the harbor's mouth, -through inadvertency there broke in upon us two such heavy seas, as had -almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up in water. Our steersman, -it seems, apprehensive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea -and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into the -pier, and so, God be thanked! we got to Calais, though wet. - -Here I waited for company, the passage toward Paris being still infested -with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. - -16th August, 1650. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1,400 -horse and foot (among them was a captain whom I knew), being come to -town, I took horses for myself and servant, and marched under their -protection to Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these -tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, -cattle, and whatever came in their way; but they had such ill pay, that -they were ready themselves to starve. - -As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the guards doubled, -and everybody running with their movables to Paris, on an alarm that the -enemy was within five leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this -part of France at this time. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months only. - -1st September, 1650. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and -indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives. - -Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife -had baptized. - -15th October, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterward Lord Treasurer) and -Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent on a treat; -they shot so exact that it was a drawn match. - -1st November, 1650. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going on his journey -toward Italy; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's -Household, the Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and -Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor. - -6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set -upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave -the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir -Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to -my friends. - -16th November, 1650. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's -Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of -twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of -what was to be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being -patroness of Musicians. News arrived of the death of the Princess of -Orange of the smallpox. - -14th December, 1650. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was -an imposter that had liked to have imposed upon us a pretended secret of -multiplying gold; it is certain he had lived some time in Paris in -extraordinary splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheat. - -22d December, 1650. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me. - -31st December, 1650. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the -past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, -near £600 sterling. - -1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden -and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had -long been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those -countries, the Arabs especially. - -27th January, 1651. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my -grand-mother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me during my -childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety. - -29th January, 1651. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing the -mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come -newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel. - -9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arrźt du -Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris. - -23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a -fair cloister painted with the lives of hermits; a glorious altar now -erecting in the chapel; the garden on the rock with divers descents, with -a fine vineyard, and a delicate prospect toward the city. - -24th February, 1651. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous beast, -much like the camel, but larger. There was also dancing on the rope; but, -above all, surprising to those who were ignorant of the address, was the -water-spouter, who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his -mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. For a piece -of money he discovered the secret to me. I waited on Friar Nicholas at -the convent at Chaillot, who, being an excellent chemist, showed me his -laboratory, and rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both -physician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the names of his -drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or -simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some [Transcriber's -note: special symbol for the planet Mercury] of antimony. He had cured -Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a -monumental altar that was to cost £1,500. - -11th March, 1651. I went to the Chātelet, or prison, where a malefactor -was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to -confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first -bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to -an iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor, and -then his feet with another cable, fastened about five feet further than -his utmost length to another ring on the floor of the room. Thus -suspended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the -rope which bound his feet, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed -the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an -extraordinary manner, he having only a pair of linen drawers on his naked -body. Then, they questioned him of a robbery (the lieutenant being -present and a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher -horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this -agony, confessing nothing, the executioner with a horn (just such as they -drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the -quantity of two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which so -prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and affrighted any one to -see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then -let him down, and carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, -being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I know -not; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly averred him to be the -man, and the fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be -racked, betrayed some guilt; the lieutenant was also of that opinion, and -told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young man) he would -conquer the torture; and so it seems they could not hang him, but did use -in such cases, where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to -the galleys, which is as bad as death. - -There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spectacle was so -uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It -represented yet to me the intolerable sufferings which our Blessed Savior -must needs undergo, when his body was hanging with all its weight upon -the nails on the cross. - -20th March, 1651. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the Marquis -de Crevecoeur's, where were divers princes, dukes, and great persons; -but what appeared to me very mean was, that it began with a puppet-play. - -6th May, 1651. I attended the ambassador to a masque at Court, where the -French King in person danced five entries, but being engaged in -discourse, and better entertained with one of the Queen-Regent's -secretaries, I soon left the entertainment. - -11th May, 1651. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the -Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera. The first scene -represented a chariot of singers composed of the rarest voices that could -be procured, representing Cornaro[42] and Temperance; this was overthrown -by Bacchus and his revelers; the rest consisted of several entries and -pageants of excess, by all the elements. A masque representing fire was -admirable; then came a Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a -heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great -persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, -with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration -of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _ą l'antique_, but the -habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious. - - [Footnote 42: The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.] - -23d May, 1651. I went to take leave of the ambassadors for Spain, which -were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edward Hyde; and, as I -returned, I visited Mr. Morine's garden, and his other rarities, -especially corals, minerals, stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of -the Red Sea, the body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and -the two legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of shells, at -least 1,000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of great price; and had a -very curious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was -compiling a natural history. He had also the pictures of his choice -flowers and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of -tulips only. He had _taille-douces_ out of number; the head of the -rhinoceros bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterfly resembling -a perfect bird. - -25th May, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned priest and -famous philosopher,[43] author of the book "De Mundo," with whose worthy -brother I was well acquainted at Rome. I was shown a cabinet of -Maroquin, or Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and -gilding, that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. - - [Footnote 43: A native of Essex, who was born in 1582, educated - abroad, and, his family being Catholic, became a priest of that - church, the sub-rector of the college at Douay. He advocated the - Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him into an extensive - correspondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of which he - Latinized his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died in - 1676.] - -The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of Pentecost, -perstringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgin. - -4th June, 1651. Trinity Sunday, I was absent from church in the afternoon -on a charitable affair for the Abbess of Bourcharvant, who but for me had -been abused by that chemist, Du Menie. Returning, I stepped into the -Grand Jesuits, who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of -solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, coming out -of Italy and from Padua, came to see me, on his return to England. - -5th June, 1651. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, and some other noble -persons, to hear Madam Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and -Italian excellently well, but her voice was not strong. - -7th June, 1651. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the -streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full of images, and -other rich furniture, especially that before the Court, of a rare design -and architecture. There were abundance of excellent pictures and great -vases of silver. - -13th June, 1651. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, -which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, porcelain, medals, -statues, relievos, paintings, _taille-douces_, and antiquities, might -compare with the Italian virtuosos. - -21st June, 1651. I became acquainted with Sieur William Curtius, a very -learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. He had been a scholar to -Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was well advanced in years, and now -Resident for his Majesty at Frankfort. - -2d July, 1651. Came to see me the Earl of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his -brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer's -sons, and Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, a learned and pious man, where -we entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the affairs of -England, and the lamentable condition of our Church. The Lord Gerrard -also called to see my collection of sieges and battles. - -21st July, 1651. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapel, Dr. -Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, preaching. - -2d August, 1651. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were abundance of -ladies and others bathing in the river; the ladies had their tents spread -on the water for privacy. - -29th August, 1651. Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of our -poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr. Waller, being at St. -Germains, desired me to send him a coach from Paris, to bring my wife's -goddaughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. - -6th September, 1651. I went with my wife to St. Germains, to condole with -Mr. Waller's loss. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent -and pious person the Dean of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives -(half-brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with his -wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very evening before he -was to have been put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two stories -high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter, and at -night; so as by swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though -he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went about in women's -habit, and then in a small-coal-man's, traveling 200 miles on foot, -embarked for Scotland with some men he had raised, who coming on shore -were all surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose's score; he -not knowing anything of their barbarous murder of that hero. This he told -us was his fifth escape, and none less miraculous; with this note, that -the charging through 1,000 men armed, or whatever danger could befall a -man, he believed could not more confound and distract a man's thoughts -than the execution of a premeditated escape, the passions of hope and -fear being so strong. This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not -a little given to romance, when he spoke of himself. I returned to Paris -the same evening. - -7th September, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher -of Malmesbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window we saw -the whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French Monarch, -Louis XIV., passing to Parliament, when first he took the kingly -government on him, now being in his 14th year, out of his minority and -the Queen Regent's pupilage. First came the captain of the King's Aids, -at the head of 50, richly liveried; next, the Queen-Mother's Light Horse, -100, the lieutenant being all over covered with embroidery and ribbons, -having before him four trumpets habited in black velvet, full of lace, -and casques of the same. Then, the King's Light Horse, 200, richly -habited, with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before -whom rode the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with -pearl. Next went the grand Prévōt's company on foot, with the Prévōt on -horseback; after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two -gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-colored satin, after their country -fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in his cap a _pennach_ of heron, -with a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss boys, with -halberds. Then, came the _Aide des Cérémonies_; next, the grandees of -court, governors of places and lieutenants-general of provinces, -magnificently habited and mounted; among whom I must not forget the -Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, -because it is said he had never been an Academist, and yet governed a -very unruly horse, and besides his rich suit his Malta Cross was esteemed -at 10,000 crowns. These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, -covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six -trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as many heralds in blue velvet -_semée_ with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on -their heads; behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; -then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding splendid; -behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, alone, carrying the King's -sword in a scarf, which he held up in a blue sheath studded with -fleurs-de-lis; his horse had for reins two scarfs of black taffeta. - -Then came abundance of footmen and pages of the King, new-liveried with -white and red feathers; next, the _garde du corps_ and other officers; -and lastly, appeared the King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a -housing _semee_, with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and -fleurs-de-lis; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was in a suit so -covered with rich embroidery, that one could perceive nothing of the -stuff under it; he went almost the whole way with his hat in hand, -saluting the ladies and acclamators, who had filled the windows with -their beauty, and the air with _Vive le Roi_. He seemed a prince of a -grave yet sweet countenance. After the King, followed divers great -persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also his esquires; masters of -horse, on foot; then the company of _Exempts des Gardes_, and six guards -of Scotch. Between their files were divers princes of the blood, dukes, -and lords; after all these, the Queen's guard of Swiss, pages, and -footmen; then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich coach, with Monsieur -the King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and some other lords and ladies -of honor. About the coach, marched her _Exempts des Gardes_: then the -company of the King's _Gens d'armes_, well mounted, 150, with four -trumpets, and as many of the Queen's; lastly, an innumerable company of -coaches full of ladies and gallants. In this equipage, passed the monarch -to the Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government. - -15th September, 1651. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-in-law, -to the French Court, when he had a favorable audience of the French King, -and the Queen, his mother; congratulating the one on his coming to the -exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy -administration during her late regency, desiring both to preserve the -same amity for his master, our King, as they had hitherto done, which -they both promised, with many civil expressions and words of course upon -such occasions. We were accompanied both going and returning by the -Introductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Ceremonies. I also saw the audience -of Morosini, the Ambassador of Venice, and divers other Ministers of -State from German Princes, Savoy, etc. Afterward I took a walk in the -King's gardens, where I observed that the mall goes the whole square -there of next the wall, and bends with an angle so made as to glance the -wall; the angle is of stone. There is a basin at the end of the garden -fed by a noble fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three -boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In another part is a -complete fort, made with bastions, graft, half-moons, ravelins, and -furnished with great guns cast on purpose to instruct the King in -fortification. - -22d September, 1651. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at Worcester, -which exceedingly mortified our expectations. - -28th September, 1651. I was shown a collection of books and prints made -for the Duke of York. - -1st October, 1651. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preached on Job -xiii., verse 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and -extremities, and for establishing and comforting some ladies of great -quality, who were then to be discharged from our Queen-Mother's service -unless they would go over to the Romish Mass. - -The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of -publishing those Offices, which among the Puritans were wont to be called -COSIN'S COZENING DEVOTIONS, by way of derision. At the first coming of -the Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often upbraiding -our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any hours of -prayer, or breveries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have much spare -time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies, -scandalized it seems at this, moved the matter to the King; whereupon his -Majesty presently called Bishop White to him and asked his thoughts of -it, and whether there might not be found some forms of prayer proper on -such occasions, collected out of some already approved forms, that so the -court ladies and others (who spent much time in trifling) might at least -appear as devout, and be so too, as the new-come-over French ladies, who -took occasion to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On which, the -Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done easily, and was very -necessary; whereupon the King commanded him to employ some person of the -clergy to compile such a Work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, -the King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in his name to set about it -immediately. This the Dean told me he did; and three months after, -bringing the book to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to read -it over, and make his report; this was so well liked, that (contrary to -former custom of doing it by a chaplain) he would needs give it an -_imprimatur_ under his own hand. Upon this there were at first only 200 -copies printed; nor, said he, was there anything in the whole book of my -own composure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those -necessary prefaces, etc., out of the Fathers, touching the times and -seasons of prayer; all the rest being entirely translated and collected -out of an OFFICE published by authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, -and our own Liturgy. This I rather mention to justify that industrious -and pious Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if he had done it -of his own head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, -and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirmed -many to our Church. - -29th October, 1651. Came news and letters to the Queen and Sir Richard -Browne (who was the first that had intelligence of it) of his Majesty's -miraculous escape after the fight at Worcester; which exceedingly -rejoiced us. - -7th November, 1651. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much -discourse on chemical matters. I showed him a particular way of -extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave me a certain powder with which he -affirmed that he had fixed [Transcriber's note: special symbol for the -planet Mercury] (mercury) before the late King. He advised me to try and -digest a little better, and gave me a water which he said was only rain -water of the autumnal equinox, exceedingly rectified, very volatile; it -had a taste of a strong vitriolic, and smelt like _aqua fortis_. He -intended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold; but the truth is, Sir -Kenelm was an arrant mountebank. Came news of the gallant Earl of Derby's -execution by the rebels. - -14th November, 1651. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii., verses 20, -21, 22, upon Jacob's vow, which he appositely applied, it being the first -Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after his escape. I went, in the -afternoon, to visit the Earl of Norwich; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's. - -16th November, 1651. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about two -days; when, going up to his lodging, I found him dead; which affected me -much, as besides his particular affection and love to me, he was of -incomparable parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very -great loss to the whole church. He was buried the next day with all our -church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying the corpse. - -17th November, 1651. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. Gardner, -maid of honor, lately married to that odd person, Sir Henry Wood: but -riches do many things. - -To see Monsieur Febure's course of chemistry, where I found Sir Kenelm -Digby, and divers curious persons of learning and quality. It was his -first opening the course and preliminaries, in order to operations. - -1st December, 1651. I now resolved to return to England. - -3d December, 1651. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some of -his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold, which, being in -his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by receiving a musket bullet on -them, which deadened its violence, so that it went no further; but made -such a stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one another, -battering and bending several of them; the bullet itself was flatted, and -retained on it the color of the gold. He assured us that of a hundred of -them, which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without -some blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Neapolitan -Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses into France, contrary to -the order of the Viceroy, by assistance of some banditti, was the -occasion of a difference between those great men, and consequently of the -late civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the Prince -standing on his defense at his own castle. He told me that the second -time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their -number, and might easily have beaten them; but was betrayed, as were all -other his designs and counsels, by some, even of his bedchamber, meaning -M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters from time to time when his -Majesty was asleep. - -11th December, 1651. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker, of University -College, with his two pupils, the sons of my worthy friend, Henry -Hyldiard, Esq., whom I had recommended to his care. - -21st December, 1651. Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane,[44] the lady who -conveyed the King to the seaside at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John -Cosin, son of the Dean, debauched by the priests, wrote a letter to me -to mediate for him with his father. I prepared for my last journey, being -now resolved to leave France altogether. - - [Footnote 44: Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army - of Charles II. dispersed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted - the King in effecting his escape after that battle, his Majesty - traveling with her disguised as her serving man, William Jackson.] - -25th December, 1651. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first by -themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the long towel all along -the altar. - -26th December, 1651. Came news of the death of that rebel, Ireton. - -31st December, 1651. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated the -Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative of my journey, being -now resolved to leave France altogether, and to return God Almighty -thanks for His gracious protection of me this past year. - -2d January, 1651-52. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, -which exceedingly affected me. - -I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enameling. He -wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a large size, even to the life, -so that nothing could be better molded. He told us stories of a Genoese -jeweler, who had the great ARCANUM, and had made projection before him -several times. He met him at Cyprus traveling into Egypt; in his return -from whence, he died at sea, and the secret with him, that else he had -promised to have left it to him; that all his effects were seized on, and -dissipated by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He also -affirmed, that being in a goldsmith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of very -low stature came in, and desired the goldsmith to melt him a pound of -lead; which done, he unscrewed the pommel of his sword, and taking out of -a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, -poured an ingot out, which when cold he took up, saying, "Sir, you will -be paid for your lead in the crucible," and so went out immediately. When -he was gone the goldsmith found four ounces of good gold in it; but could -never set eye again on the little man, though he sought all the city for -him. Antonio asserted this with great obtestation; nor know I what to -think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell -strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a great rover, and -spoke ten different languages. - -13th January, 1652. I took leave of Mr. Waller, who, having been -proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission to return, was -going to England. - -29th January, 1652. Abundance of my French and English friends and some -Germans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais, in -an exceedingly hard frost which had continued for some time. We got that -night to Beaumont; 30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep -with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; dined at Pois; lay at Pernče, a -miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly unfurnished, but -in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, which they told me -they hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garrisons near -them continually plundering what they had. They were often infested with -wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw more miserable creatures. - -1st February, 1652. I dined at Abbeville; 2d, dined at Montreuil, lay at -Boulogne; 3d, came to Calais, by eleven in the morning; I thought to have -embarked in the evening, but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, -I dared not trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday following, -when two or three lusty vessels were to depart. - -I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, sometime before made -to resign his Fellowship in King's College, Cambridge, because he would -not take the Covenant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came -miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some relation he had -to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and clad and provided -for him, till he should find some better condition; and he was worthy of -it. There came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir -Timothy Tyrell, of Shotover (near Oxford). - -At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met with Mr. Heath, Sir -Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and divers of our banished friends, of whom -understanding that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in -the town, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by pirates at sea the -year before (my wife having sent it for me in England), as my Lord of -Norwich had informed me at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly -told me that he had such a picture in his own bedchamber among other -ladies, and how he came by it; seeming well pleased that it was his -fortune to preserve it for me, and he generously promised to send it to -any friend I had at Dover; I mentioned a French merchant there and so -took my leave. - -6th February, 1652. I embarked early in the packet boat, but put my goods -in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got not to Dover till eight -at night. I took horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day, to -Gravesend, took a pair of oars, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed -three days to refresh, and look after my packet and goods, sent by a -stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard Fanshawe, and divers -other friends. - -6th March, 1652. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch-rebel, Ireton, -carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westminster, accompanied with -divers regiments of soldiers, horse and foot; then marched the mourners, -General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-men, officers, -and forty poor men in gowns, three led horses in housings of black cloth, -two led in black velvet, and his charging horse, all covered over with -embroidery and gold, on crimson velvet; then the guidons, ensigns, four -heralds, carrying the arms of the State (as they called it), namely, the -red cross and Ireland, with the casque, wreath, sword, spurs, etc.; next, -a chariot canopied of black velvet, and six horses, in which was the -corpse; the pall held up by the mourners on foot; the mace and sword, -with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the plague), -carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a grave pace, drums covered with -cloth, soldiers reversing their arms, they proceeded through the streets -in a very solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel, and had been very -bloody to the King's party, witness his severity at Colchester, when in -cold blood he put to death those gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and -Sir George Lisle. My cousin, R. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and informed -me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his -brother, my Lord Cherbury's book, "_De Veritate_." - -[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] - -9th March, 1652. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my -settlement, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavor a -settled life, either in this or some other place, there being now so -little appearance of any change for the better, all being entirely in -the rebels' hands; and this particular habitation and the estate -contiguous to it (belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his -Majesty's service) very much suffering for want of some friend to rescue -it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve our interest, and -take some care of my other concerns, by the advice and endeavor of my -friends I was advised to reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. -This I was besides authorized by his Majesty to do, and encouraged with a -promise that what was in lease from the Crown, if ever it pleased God to -restore him, he would secure to us in fee farm. I had also addresses and -cyphers, to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad: upon all -which inducements, I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, -having now run about the world, most part out of my own country, near ten -years. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife, whom -as yet I had left at Paris. - -14th March, 1652. I went to Lewisham, where I heard an honest sermon on -1 Cor. ii. 5-7, being the first Sunday I had been at church since my -return, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of -England in a parish pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents -and Fanatics. - -15th March, 1652. I saw the "Diamond" and "Ruby" launched in the Dock at -Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each; Cromwell and his -grandees present, with great acclamations. - -18th March, 1652. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a sequestered -person, came to visit me. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th March, 1652. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London, where we had -a great supper; all the vessels, which were innumerable, were of -porcelain, she having the most ample and richest collection of that -curiosity in England. - -22d March, 1652. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to give him -what directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to -put into some form; but for which he was to remove a mountain overgrown -with huge trees and thicket, with a moat within ten yards of the house. -This my brother immediately attempted, and that without great cost, for -more than a hundred yards south, by digging down the mountain, and -flinging it into a rapid stream; it not only carried away the sand, etc., -but filled up the moat, and leveled that noble area, where now the garden -and fountain is. The first occasion of my brother making this alteration -was my building the little retiring place between the great wood eastward -next the meadow, where, some time after my father's death, I made a -triangular pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock after my coming -out of Flanders. - -29th March, 1652. I heard that excellent prelate, the primate of Ireland -(Jacobus Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on Heb. iv. 16, encouraging of -penitent sinners. - -5th April, 1652. My brother George brought to Sayes Court Cromwell's Act -of Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. - -13th April, 1652. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother -George's wife was delivered of a son. - -I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which some -time since I sent to Dean Cosin's proselyted son; but I did not conceive -it convenient, for fear of displeasing her Majesty, the Queen. - -15th April, 1652. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his library, -which was one of the choicest collections of any private person in -England. - -The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the picture of -my wife from Dunkirk, in a large tin case without any charge. It is of -Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to the knees, -but it has been somewhat spoiled by washing it ignorantly with soapsuds. - -25th April, 1652. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord -Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who -had been thirteen times to the East Indies. - -29th April, 1652. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much -threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarmed the -whole nation that hardly any one would work, nor stir out of their -houses. So ridiculously were they abused by knavish and ignorant -star-gazers. - -We went this afternoon to see the Queen's house at Greenwich, now given -by the rebels to Bulstrode Whitelocke, one of their unhappy counselors, -and keeper of pretended liberties. - -10th May, 1652. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable creature -burning, who had murdered her husband. I went to see some workmanship of -that admirable artist, Reeves, famous for perspective, and turning -curiosities in ivory. - -29th May, 1652. I went to give order about a coach to be made against my -wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I brought out of -Paris. - -30th May, 1652. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my nephew, -George, might be brought up with my young Lord, his son, to whom I was -recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of camleting silk and -grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel -Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who had been my -schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's safe landing, and the goods -she was to bring with her out of France; which he courteously granted, -and did me many other kindnesses, that was a great matter in those days. - -In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a Rabinical sermon. -Here is a fair monument in black marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built -that fair house near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend, Sir -Henry Newton, succeeded him. - -3d June, 1652. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to the Magistrates -and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her landing, and show her all -civility. - -4th June, 1652. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, -after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, which had now been -besieged some time by the Prince of Condé's army in the time of the -rebellion, and after she had been now near twelve years from her own -country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. I -went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late -conflict with the Holland fleet, the two nations being now in war, and -which made sailing very unsafe. - -On Whit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very fair one), and -heard one of the canters, who dismissed the assembly rudely, and without -any blessing. Here I stayed till the 10th with no small impatience, when -I walked over to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port, -which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and public structures, -discovers it to have been formerly a considerable and large city. There -are to be seen vast caves and vaults, walls and towers, ruins of -monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which are some handsome -monuments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the manner of those -in the Temple at London. This place being now all in rubbish, and a few -despicable hovels and cottages only standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, -which formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now forsaken -it. - -[Sidenote: TUNBRIDGE] - -11th June, 1652. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls on the -green, we discovered a vessel which proved to be that in which my wife -was, and which got into the harbor about eight that evening, to my no -small joy. They had been three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, -through which they passed, taken for fishers, which was great good -fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture and other rich plunder, -which I bless God came all safe to land, together with my wife, and my -Lady Browne, her mother, who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed -by having been so long at sea, we set not forth toward home till the -14th, when, hearing the smallpox was very rife in and about London, and -Lady Browne having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them -thither, and stayed in a very sweet place, private and refreshing, and -took the waters myself till the 23d, when I went to prepare for their -reception, leaving them for the present in their little cottage by the -Wells. - -The weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rode -negligently under favor of the shade, till, within three miles of -Bromley, at a place called the Procession Oak, two cutthroats started -out, and striking with long staves at the horse, and taking hold of the -reins, threw me down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep thicket, -some quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob -me, as they soon did. What they got of money, was not considerable, but -they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an onyx, -and a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of value, -and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feet, having before -pulled off my boots; they then set me up against an oak, with most bloody -threats to cut my throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise; for -they should be within hearing, I not being the person they looked for. I -told them that if they had not basely surprised me they should not have -had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride near a -hedge, since, had I been in the midway, they dared not have adventured on -me; at which they cocked their pistols, and told me they had long guns, -too, and were fourteen companions. I begged for my onyx, and told them it -being engraved with my arms would betray them; but nothing prevailed. My -horse's bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which they pulled -off, but let the horse graze, and then turning again bridled him and tied -him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse -was perhaps not taken, because he was marked and cropped on both ears, -and well known on that road. Left in this manner, grievously was I -tormented with flies, ants, and the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I -should get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor -see any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling in the -copse. - -After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to turn palm to palm, -having been tied back to back, and then it was long before I could slip -the cord over my wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, and then soon -unbound my feet, and saddling my horse and roaming a while about, I at -last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the rattling of a cart, -toward which I made, and, by the help of two countrymen, I got back into -the highway. I rode to Colonel Blount's, a great justiciary of the times, -who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, sore as my wrists -and arms were, I went to London, and got 500 tickets printed and -dispersed by an officer of Goldsmiths' Hall, and within two days had -tidings of all I had lost, except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and -some trifles. The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a trifle to a -goldsmith's servant, before the tickets came to the shop, by which means -they escaped; the other ring was bought by a victualer, who brought it -to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket seized the man. I afterward -discharged him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did God deliver me -from these villains, and not only so, but restored what they took, as -twice before he had graciously done, both at sea and land, I mean when I -had been robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a considerable loss at -Amsterdam; for which, and many, many signal preservations, I am extremely -obliged to give thanks to God my Savior. - -25th June, 1652. After a drought of near four months, there fell so -violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man -had seen the like in his age; the hail being in some places four or five -inches about, broke all glass about London, especially at Deptford, and -more at Greenwich. - -29th June, 1652. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the water, till -10th of July. - -We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at Summer hill, near -Tunbridge (now given to that villain, Bradshawe, who condemned the King). -'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park; but has nothing else -extraordinary. - -4th July, 1652. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's chapel at Groomsbridge, -a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and watered. In this house was one -of the French kings[45] kept prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. -Packer's father, in remembrance of King Charles the First's safe return -out of Spain. - - [Footnote 45: The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, - 4 Hen. V., by Richard Waller, then owner of this place. See Hasted's - "Kent," vol. i., p. 431.] - -[Sidenote: PENSHURST] - -9th July, 1652. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, famous -once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation -which was wont to meet there, celebrated by that illustrious person, Sir -Philip Sidney, who there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a -park, is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the marriage of -my old fellow-collegiate, Mr. Robert Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy -Sidney, widow of the Earl of Sunderland. - -One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was accordingly summoned to -appear against him; and, on the 12th, was in Westminster Hall, but not -being bound over, nor willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, -coming only to save a friend's bail; but the bill being found, he was -turned over to the Old Bailey. In the meantime, I received a petition -from the prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer in -Kent. He was charged, with other crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I -heard afterward that, had it not been for his companion, a younger man, -he would probably have killed me. He was afterward charged with some -other crime, but, refusing to plead, was pressed to death. - -23d July, 1652. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit me. - -30th July, 1652. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne] -interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. - -1st August, 1652. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a man skilled in -painting and music, and another rare musician, called Mell. I went to see -his collection of pictures, especially those of Julio Romano, which -surely had been the King's, and an Egyptian figure, etc. There were also -excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, and Tintoretto. Lennier had -been a domestic of Queen Elizabeth, and showed me her head, an intaglio -in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me was -exceedingly like her. - -24th August, 1652. My first child, a son, was born precisely at one -o'clock. - -2d September, 1652. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine, of Eltham, -christened my son by the name of Richard. - -22d September, 1652. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was taken with -scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interred in the -church near Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and -according to the church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it -had not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended an excellent -and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having been so obliging on all -occasions to those who continually frequented her house in Paris, which -was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and -afflicted countrymen, during eleven years' residence there in that -honorable situation. - -25th September, 1652. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the -prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and description of Barclay's -"_Icon Animarum_."[46] - - [Footnote 46: The book here referred to is in the British Museum, - entitled "_Joannis Barclaii Icon Animarum_," and printed at London, - 1614, small 12mo. It is written in Latin, and dedicated to Louis - XIII. of France, for what reason does not appear, the author - speaking of himself as a subject of this country. It mentions the - necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skillful gardener - forms his trees; the different dispositions of men, in different - nations; English, Scotch, and Irish, etc. Chapter second contains a - florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but - does not mention Dr. Mason, or his house.] - -5th November, 1652. To London, to visit some friends, but the insolences -were so great in the streets that I could not return till the next day. - -Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins and -Arteries to the College of Physicians, pretending he would not only read -upon them, but celebrate my curiosity as being the first who caused them -to be completed in that manner, and with that cost; but I was not so -willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the College during -their anatomical lectures; which I did accordingly. - -22d November, 1652. I went to London, where was proposed to me the -promoting that great work (since accomplished by Dr. Walton, Bishop of -Chester), "_Biblia Polyglotta_," by Mr. Pierson, that most learned -divine. - -25th December, 1652. Christmas day, no sermon anywhere, no church being -permitted to be open, so observed it at home. The next day, we went to -Lewisham, where an honest divine preached. - -31st December, 1652. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to -Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past. - -[Sidenote: SAYES COURT] - -1st January, 1652-53. I set apart in preparation for the Blessed -Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my -family in Sayes Court, preaching on John vi. 32, 33, showing the -exceeding benefits of our blessed Savior taking our nature upon him. He -had christened my son and churched my wife in our own house as before -noticed. - -17th January, 1653. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court, -which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one entire field of -100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither holly hedge joining to -the bank of the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding -gardens, walks, groves, inclosures, and plantations there. - -21st January, 1653. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings of -my purchase of Sayes Court. - -30th January, 1653. At our own parish church, a stranger preached. There -was now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and, though -the present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily -preached sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man; which was an -extraordinary felicity in this age. - -1st February, 1653. Old Alexander Rosse (author of "_Virgilius -Evangelizans_," and many other little books) presented me with his book -against Mr. Hobbes's "Leviathan." - -19th February, 1653. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon, wind -west. - -22d February, 1653. Was perfected the sealing, livery, and seisin of my -purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glanville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. -Offley, Co. William Glanville (son to Sergeant Glanville, sometime -Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends -dining with me. I had bargained for £3,200, but I paid £3,500. - -25th March, 1653. Came to see me that rare graver in _taille-douce_, -Monsieur Richett, he was sent by Cardinal Mazarine to make a collection -of pictures. - -11th April, 1653. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where every coach -was made to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence, by the sordid fellow who -had purchased it of the state, as they called it. - -17th May, 1653. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several -hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I suppose, by tampering -with mercury about an experiment in gold. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -29th May, 1653. I went to London, to take my last leave of my honest -friend, Mr. Barton, now dying; it was a great loss to me and to my -affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended his funeral. - -8th June, 1653. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn, the great -traveler, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas Keightly, and a virtuoso, -fastastical Simons, who had the talent of embossing so to the life. - -9th June, 1653. I went to visit my worthy neighbor, Sir Henry Newton [at -Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river, -ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most -noble in the world; so as, had the house running water, it were a -princely seat. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visit me, and -he presented me with a seleniscope. - -19th June, 1653. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh, blessed -day! - -21st June, 1653. My Lady Gerrard, and one Esquire Knight, a very rich -gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited me. - -23d June, 1653. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my collections. - -27th June, 1653. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his _aurum -potabile_, with a letter, showing the way of administering it, and the -stupendous cures it had done at Paris; but, ere it came to me, by what -accident I know not, it was all run out. - -17th August, 1653. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house at Horsley -(formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's[47]), where met me Mr. Oughtred, -the famous mathematician; he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers -rich and aromatic balsams, which a chemist, a scholar of his, had sent -him out of Germany. - - [Footnote 47: Evelyn is here in error: Mr. Hyldiard was of East - Horsley, Sir Walter of West.] - -21st August, 1653. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the parson of -the parish of Wotton where I was born, and who had baptized me, preach -after his very plain way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the -sea, the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. - -22d August, 1653. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the famous inn, -the Red Lion, and to see the hospital, and the monument of Archbishop -Abbot, the founder, who lies buried in the chapel of his endowment. - -28th September, 1653. At Greenwich preached that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, -on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and -threatening the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious -impiety of the age. - -11th October, 1653. My son, John Stansfield, was born, being my second -child, and christened by the name of my mother's father, that name now -quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library, -at Sayes Court, where he afterward churched my wife, I always making use -of him on these occasions, because the parish minister dared not have -officiated according to the form and usage of the Church of England, to -which I always adhered. - -25th October, 1653. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court on -Luke xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust judge, showing why -Almighty God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He -afterward administered to us all the Holy Sacrament. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -28th October, 1653. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw -that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that -she spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk -and discourse was like an impudent woman. - -21st November, 1653. I went to London, to speak with Sir John Evelyn, my -kinsman, about the purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westeram, -which afterward Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law, Leech. - -4th December, 1653. Going this day to our church, I was surprised to see -a tradesman, a mechanic, step up; I was resolved yet to stay and see what -he would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20: "And Benaiah -went down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the time of -snow"; the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult when -God called for shedding of blood, inferring that now the saints were -called to destroy temporal governments; with such feculent stuff; so -dangerous a crisis were things grown to. - -25th December, 1653. Christmas day. No churches, or public assembly. I -was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with my family at -home. - -20th January, 1653-54. Come to see my old acquaintance and the most -incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clark,[48] after his travels. -He was an excellent musician, a discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire -(as I remember). Such music before or since did I never hear, that -instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty; but, in my -judgment, far superior to the lute itself, or whatever speaks with -strings. - - [Footnote 48: See under the year 1688, November.] - -25th January, 1654. Died my son, J. Stansfield, of convulsion fits; -buried at Deptford on the east corner of the church, near his mother's -great-grandfather, and other relatives. - -8th February, 1654. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all custom and -decency, the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the Lord Mayor's, riding in -triumph through the city. - -14th February, 1654. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb; he -was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his -tongue rough like a cat's; a sheep also with six legs, which made use of -five of them to walk; a goose that had four legs, two crops, and as many -vents. - -29th March, 1654. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached in my library on -Matt. xxviii. 6, a resurrection sermon, and after it we all received the -Holy Communion. - -6th April, 1654. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby, Mr. Denham, and -other friends to see me. - -15th April, 1654. I went to London to hear the famous Jeremy Taylor -(since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gregory's (near St. Paul's) on -Matt. vi, 48, concerning evangelical perfection. - -5th May, 1654. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headly, apprentice to a -carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new clothing; he thrived very -well, and became rich. - -8th May, 1654. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook's garden, which was -one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well -furnished, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's -garden; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, -planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances, the -banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and seats were carved _ą -l'antique_; some good pictures in the house, especially one of Vandyke's, -being a man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. -Ducie's, who has indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of -the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas Fowler's -aviary, which is a poor business. - -[Illustration: _OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON_ - -_The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution of the -Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain -after Newenham_] - -10th May, 1654. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now the -only place of refreshment about the town for persons of the best quality -to be exceedingly cheated at; Cromwell and his partisans having shut up -and seized on Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual -rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season. - -11th May, 1654. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, -formerly a most ignominious thing, and used only by prostitutes. - -14th May, 1654. There being no such thing as church anniversaries in the -parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whit Sunday. - -15th May, 1654. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the translator of "Juvenal," -to visit me. - -8th June, 1654. My wife and I set out in a coach and four horses, in our -way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire, and other parts, where we -resolved to spend some months. We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and -Chapel of St. George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King -Charles, in the VAULT JUST BEFORE THE ALTAR. The church and workmanship -in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is large in circumference; but -the rooms melancholy, and of ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, -hath, besides its incomparable prospect, a very profound well; and the -terrace toward Eton, with the park, meandering Thames, and sweet meadows, -yield one of the most delightful prospects. That night, we lay at -Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house at Causam [Caversham], now in ruins, -his goodly woods felling by the Rebels. - -9th June, 1654. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately fired, was -now new built. At one end of this town, we saw my Lord Seymour's house, -but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended by windings -for near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. We passed by -Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and river. Thence, to Newbury, a -considerable town, and Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and -castle, this last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. -Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, built _ą la -moderne_. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, on -the ascent of hill, flanked with wood, and regarding the river, and so, -at night, to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., uncle to -my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of the week we did nothing but -feast and make good cheer, to welcome my wife. - -27th June, 1654. We all went to see Bath, where I bathed in the cross -bath. Among the rest of the idle diversions of the town, one musician was -famous for acting a changeling, which indeed he personated strangely. - -The _facciįta_ of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical -carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. The town is -entirely built of stone, but the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. -Here, we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who -frequent the place for health, till the 30th, and then went to Bristol, a -city emulating London, not for its large extent, but manner of building, -shops, bridge, traffic, exchange, market-place, etc. The governor showed -us the castle, of no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as -standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for Ireland, and the -Western world. Here I first saw the manner of refining sugar and casting -it into loaves, where we had a collection of eggs fried in the sugar -furnace, together with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared most -stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little distance from the -town, the precipice whereof is equal to anything of that nature I have -seen in the most confragose cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding -between them at an extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for -diamonds, and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also on the side of -this horrid Alp a very romantic seat: and so we returned to Bath in the -evening, and July 1st to Cadenham. - -4th July, 1654. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited -back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a town famous for its -trouts, and the next day arrived at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the -extremity of heat. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -6th July, 1654. I went early to London, and the following day met my wife -and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act. - -8th July, 1654. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the schools; -and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at St. Mary's (according to -custom), and the Prevaricators, their drollery. Then, the Doctors -disputed. We supped at Wadham College. - -9th July, 1654. Dr. French preached at St. Mary's, on Matt. xii. 42, -advising the students the search after true wisdom, not to be had in the -books of philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the -famous Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now -Cromwell's Vice-Chancellor. We dined with Dr. Ward, Mathematical -Professor (since Bishop of Sarum), and at night supped in Baliol College -Hall, where I had once been student and fellow-commoner, and where they -made me extraordinarily welcome. - -10th July, 1654. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear the -several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the whole Act in St. -Mary's, the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the -several Professors, creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, etc., -those ancient ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholly -abolished. Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor among others, performing his Act -incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his -Presbyterian animosities, which he withheld, not even against that -learned and pious divine, Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech -of the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and three in -medicine, which was thought a considerable matter, the times considered. -I dined at one Monsieur Fiat's, a student of Exeter College, and supped -at a magnificent entertainment of Wadham Hall, invited by my dear and -excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (after, Bishop of Chester). - -11th July, 1654. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, though -invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and -theorbos, performed by some ingenious scholars. After dinner, I visited -that miracle of a youth, Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of -Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), bibliothecarius of the -Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He showed us the rarities of -that most famous place, manuscripts, medals, and other curiosities. Among -the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to be -baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding: "and Philip and the Gelding -went down into the water," etc. The original Acts of the Council of Basil -900 years since, with the _bulla_, or leaden affix, which has a silken -cord passing through every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of 800 -years antiquity; the old Ritual _secundum usum Sarum_ exceeding -voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities, the "Proverbs of Solomon," -written in French by a lady, every chapter of a several character, or -hand, the most exquisite imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta, -folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses' hide, extremely -rare; but, what is most illustrious, there were no less than 1,000 MSS. -in nineteen languages, especially Oriental, furnishing that new part of -the library built by Archbishop Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby -and the Earl of Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, they show some -Indian weapons, urns, lamps, etc., but the rarest is the whole Alcoran, -written on one large sheet of calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or -cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as -no printed letter comes near it; also, a roll of magical charms, divers -talismans, and some medals. - -Then, I led my wife into the Convocation House, finely wainscoted; the -Divinity School, and Gothic carved roof; the Physic, or Anatomy School, -adorned with some rarities of natural things; but nothing extraordinary -save the skin of a jackal, a rarely-colored jackatoo, or prodigious large -parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our bumblebee, which -indeed I had not seen before, that I remember. - -12th July, 1654. We went to St. John's, saw the library and the two -skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put together; observable is here -also the store of mathematical instruments, chiefly given by the late -Archbishop Laud, who built here a handsome quadrangle. - -Thence we went to New College, where the chapel was in its ancient garb, -notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the times. Thence, to Christ's -Church, in whose library was shown us an Office of Henry VIII., the -writing, miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing, any -curiosity I had seen of that kind; it was given by their founder, -Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of the cathedral (famous in my time) -I found much abused. The ample hall and column, that spreads its capital -to sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very remarkable. - -Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw the library and chapel, -which was likewise in pontifical order, the altar only I think turned -tablewise, and there was still the double organ, which abominations (as -now esteemed) were almost universally demolished; Mr. Gibbon, that famous -musician, giving us a taste of his skill and talents on that instrument. - -Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant was shown us for a -great wonder. There grew canes, olive trees, rhubarb, but no -extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which, when the -ladies had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings. - -13th July, 1654. We all dined at that most obliging and -universally-curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first -who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles -and palaces, and so ordered them one upon another, as to take the honey -without destroying the bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, -little statues, vanes, etc.; and, he was so abundantly civil, finding me -pleased with them, to present me with one of the hives which he had -empty, and which I afterward had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it -continued many years, and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and -contemplate with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a hollow -statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a long, concealed pipe -that went to its mouth,[49] while one speaks through it at a good -distance. He had, above in his lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, -dials, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical -curiosities, a waywiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic, and -other sections, a balance on a demi-circle; most of them of his own, and -that prodigious young scholar Mr. Christopher Wren, who presented me with -a piece of white marble, which he had stained with a lively red, very -deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural. - - [Footnote 49: Such were the speaking figures long ago exhibited in - Spring Gardens, and in Leicester Fields.] - -Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at -Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired during the wars; and, -passing near the seat of Sir Walter Pye, we came to Cadenham. - -16th July, 1654. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir -John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the House of -Commons; his seat is at Broad Hinton, where he now lived but in the -gate-house, his very fair dwelling house having been burnt by his own -hands, to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, my cousin -William Glanville's eldest son showed me such a lock for a door, that for -its filing, and rare contrivances was a masterpiece, yet made by a -country blacksmith. But, we have seen watches made by another with as -much curiosity as the best of that profession can brag of; and, not many -years after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of ironwork -more exquisitely wrought and polished than in any part of Europe, so as a -door lock of a tolerable price was esteemed a curiosity even among -foreign princes. - -Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 19th, to Sir Edward Baynton's at Spie -Park, a place capable of being made a noble seat; but the humorous old -knight has built a long single house of two low stories on the precipice -of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green in the park. -The house is like a long barn, and has not a window on the prospect side. -After dinner, they went to bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were -made so exceedingly drunk, that in returning home we escaped great -dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all gentlemen's -servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous, and much unbecoming -a knight still less a Christian. - -[Sidenote: SALISBURY] - -20th July, 1654. We proceeded to Salisbury; the cathedral I take to be -the most complete piece of Gothic work in Europe, taken in all its -uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut -out of the quarry; most observable are those in the chapter house. There -are some remarkable monuments, particularly the ancient Bishops, founders -of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marquis of Hertford's, the cloisters -of the palace and garden, and the great mural dial. - -In the afternoon we went to Wilton, a fine house of the Earl of Pembroke, -in which the most observable are the dining room in the modern-built -part toward the garden, richly gilded and painted with story, by De -Crete; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landscapes, by -Pierce; some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best French manner; a -pair of artificial winding stairs of stone, and divers rare pictures. The -garden, heretofore esteemed the noblest in England, is a large handsome -plain, with a grotto and waterworks, which might be made much more -pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and raised; for all -is effected by a mere force. It has a flower garden, not inelegant. But, -after all, that which renders the seat delightful is, its being so near -the downs and noble plains about the country contiguous to it. The -stables are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the -walks of lime trees, with the court and fountain of the stables adorned -with the Cęsars' heads. - -We returned this evening by the plain, and fourteen-mile race, where out -of my lord's hare warren we were entertained with a long course of a hare -for near two miles in sight. Near this, is a _pergola_, or stand, built -to view the sports; and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most -considerable parts of the city. The market place, with most of the -streets, are watered by a quick current and pure stream running through -the middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with a small charge -they might be purged and rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made one -of the sweetest towns, but now the common buildings are despicable, and -the streets dirty. - -22d July, 1654. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle Hungerford's, -called Darnford Magna, situated in a valley under the plain, most sweetly -watered, abounding in trouts caught by spear in the night, when they come -attracted by a light set in the stern of a boat. - -After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the goodly plain, or -rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, verdure, and -innumerable flocks, to be one of the most delightful prospects in nature, -and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of in -romances. - -Now we arrived at Stonehenge, indeed a stupendous monument, appearing at -a distance like a castle; how so many and huge pillars of stone should -have been brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops of -them, in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister or heathen and -more natural temple, is wonderful. The stone is so exceedingly hard, that -all my strength with a hammer could not break a fragment; which hardness -I impute to their so long exposure. To number them exactly is very -difficult, they lie in such variety of postures and confusion, though -they seemed not to exceed 100; we counted only 95. As to their being -brought thither, there being no navigable river near, is by some admired; -but for the stone, there seems to be the same kind about 20 miles -distant, some of which appear above ground. About the same hills, are -divers mounts raised, conceived to be ancient intrenchments, or places of -burial, after bloody fights. We now went by Devizes, a reasonable large -town, and came late to Cadenham. - -27th July, 1654. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excellent chase -for four or five hours, but the venison little worth. - -29th July, 1654. I went to Langford to see my Cousin Stephens. I also saw -Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grandfather to my -wife, and sold by her uncle; both the seat and house very honorable and -well built, much after the modern fashion. - -31st July, 1654. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been long and -nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt -another relation of my wife's; for I indeed made these excursions to show -her the most considerable parts of her native country, who, from her -childhood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my own -curiosity and information. - -[Sidenote: GLOUCESTER] - -About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect from -woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a handsome -city, considerable for the church and monuments. The minster is indeed a -noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through a passage of -twenty-five yards in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose, either -to show the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning -priest, who, standing unseen in a recess in the middle of the chapel, -might hear whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the choir, in -which lies buried King Stephen[50] under a monument of Irish oak, not ill -carved considering the age. The new library is a noble though a private -design. I was likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it. -The Duke's house, the castle works, are now almost quite dismantled; nor -yet without sad thoughts did I see the town, considering how fatal the -siege had been a few years before to our good King. - - [Footnote 50: King Stephen was buried at Faversham. The effigy - Evelyn alluded to is that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.] - -1st August, 1654. We set out toward Worcester, by a way thickly planted -with cider fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a -valley through a steep declivity toward the foot of the great Malvern -Hills; they are said to heal many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, -sore eyes, etc. Ascending a great height above them to the trench -dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all -Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknoch, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, -Shropshire, Warwick, Derbyshires, and many more. We could discern -Tewkesbury, King's road, toward Bristol, etc.; so as I esteem it one of -the goodliest vistas in England. - -2d August, 1654. This evening we arrived at Worcester, the Judges of -Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the town the next -day, we found the Cathedral much ruined by the late wars, otherwise a -noble structure. The town is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly -river Severn running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. - -3d August, 1654. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the castle, the -dwelling house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on -an eminent rock which gives prospect into a most goodly green, a woody -and plentifully watered country; the river running so delightfully under -it, that it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one should meet -with. The gardens are prettily disposed; but might be much improved. Here -they showed us Sir Guy's great two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, -and other relics of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old -town, and hath one church full of ancient monuments. - -Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend, Sir H. Puckering, -at the Abbey, and though a melancholy old seat, yet in a rich soil. - -Hence to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his penances, and died. It -is a squalid den made in the rock, crowned yet with venerable oaks and -looking on a goodly stream, so as, were it improved as it might be, it -were capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place. Near this, -we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, -out of which there are likewise divers other caves cut, and some very -capacious. - -The next place to Coventry. The cross is remarkable for Gothic work and -rich gilding, comparable to any I had ever seen, except that of Cheapside -in London, now demolished. This city has many handsome churches, a -beautiful wall, a fair free school and library to it; the streets full of -great shops, clean and well paved. At going forth the gate, they show us -the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, said to have been killed by Sir Guy, -but which I take to be the chine of a whale. - -[Sidenote: LEICESTER] - -4th August, 1654. Hence, riding through a considerable part of -Leicestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in -the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my wife's uncle. - -7th August, 1654. Went to Uppingham, the shire town of Rutland, pretty -and well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where -most of the rural parishes are but of mud; and the people living as -wretchedly as in the most impoverished parts of France, which they much -resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially -Leicestershire) much in common; the gentry free drinkers. - -9th August, 1654. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and -pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney flues like so many -smiths' forges; however, famous for the tomb of the tyrant, Richard III., -which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink. -Also, here in one of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal -Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poor hospital, near -which a wretch has made him a house out of the ruins of a stately church. -Saw the ruins of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained -at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect to meet -with so far North, especially very good melons. We returned to my -uncle's. - -14th August, 1654. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding -through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of -the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every -nobleman's horse that passes with his lord through the street, unless -redeemed with a certain piece of money. In token of this, are several -gilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seems to have been large -and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old -Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of -Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, -situate on the brow of a hill, built _ą la moderne_ near a park walled -in, and a fine wood at the descent. - -Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging to Mr. Heath, son -of the late Lord Chief Justice of that name. Here, after dinner, parting -with the company that conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by -Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a long ridge of -hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for its strenuous -resistance in the late civil war. - -Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison. Next, by Wharton -House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, a handsome seat; then by Home, a -noble place belonging to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous -river Trent, which divides the South from the North of England; and so -lay that night at Nottingham. - -This whole town and county seems to be but one entire rock, as it were, -an exceedingly pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here, I observed divers to -live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in -France. The church is well built on an eminence; there is a fair house of -the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepont's; an ample market place; large -streets, full of crosses; the relics of an ancient castle, hollowed -beneath which are many caverns, especially that of the Scots' King, and -his work while there. - -This place is remarkable for being the place where his Majesty first -erected his standard at the beginning of our late unhappy differences. -The prospects from this city toward the river and meadows are most -delightful. - -15th August, 1654. We passed next through Sherwood Forest, accounted the -most extensive in England. Then, Paplewick, an incomparable vista with -the pretty castle near it. Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey, belonging to -the Lord Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau in France, capable of -being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with brave woods and -streams; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious abbey church. Next, -by Mansfield town; then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, -seated in a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a noble yet -melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and stately building. Next to -Worksop Abbey, almost demolished; the church has a double flat tower -entire, and a pretty gate. The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, and -has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park that affords a -delicate prospect. Tickel, a town and castle, has a very noble prospect. -All these in Nottinghamshire. - -16th August, 1654. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night; it -is a large fair town, famous for great wax lights, and good stockings. - -17th August, 1654. Passed through Pontefract; the castle famous for many -sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death of that unhappy King -murdered in it (Richard II.), was now demolishing by the Rebels; it -stands on a mount, and makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a -house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially Mr. -Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle ruins. We all -alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal spring, which they call -Robin Hood's Well; near it, is a stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink -out of, chained to the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which -we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seat), and -in sight of divers other gentlemen's fair houses. This tract is a goodly, -fertile, well-watered, and wooded country, abounding with pasture and -plenty of provisions. - -[Sidenote: YORK] - -To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a circular form, -watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of considerable burden -on it; over it is a stone bridge emulating that of London, and built on; -the middle arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a wharf -of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very neat. But most -remarkable and worth seeing is St. Peter's Cathedral, which of all the -great churches in England had been best preserved from the fury of the -sacrilegious, by composition with the Rebels when they took the city, -during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a most entire -magnificent piece of Gothic architecture. The screen before the choir is -of stone carved with flowers, running work and statues of the old kings. -Many of the monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in these -days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and Common Prayer Book -covered with crimson velvet, and richly embossed with silver gilt; also a -service for the altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, -plates, chalices, patins, etc., with a gorgeous covering for the altar -and pulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall whereof -rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got up to the tower, -whence we had a prospect toward Durham, and could see Ripon, part of -Lancashire, the famous and fatal Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, -and all the environs of that admirable country. Sir ---- Ingoldsby has -here a large house, gardens, and tennis court; also the King's house and -church near the castle, which was modernly fortified with a palisade and -bastions. The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like London. - -18th August, 1654. We went to Beverley, a large town with two stately -churches, St. John's and St. Mary's, not much inferior to the best of our -cathedrals. Here a very old woman showed us the monuments, and, being -above 100 years of age, spoke the language of Queen Mary's days, in whose -time she was born; she was widow of a sexton who had belonged to the -church a hundred years. - -Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to Hull, situated like -Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick -and earth. It has a good market place and harbor for ships. Famous also -(or rather infamous) is this town for Hotham's refusing entrance to his -Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing. And here ends the south of -Yorkshire. - -[Sidenote: LINCOLN] - -19th August, 1654. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about two -leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed it in a good barge -to Barton, the first town in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh ground -till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, and then -had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury Plain. -Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven, steep, and ragged; -formerly full of good houses, especially churches and abbeys. The Minster -almost comparable to that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, -and having a fair front (herein was interred Queen Eleanora, the loyal -and loving wife who sucked the poison out of her husband's wound); the -abbot founder, with rare carving in the stone; the great bell, or Tom, as -they call it. I went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all -over the country. The soldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses -from the gravestones, so as few inscriptions were left; they told us that -these men went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till -they had rent and torn off some barge loads of metal, not sparing even -the monuments of the dead; so hellish an avarice possessed them: beside -which, they exceedingly ruined the city. - -Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high, comely, middle-aged, -and well-proportioned, who kept a very neat and clean alehouse, and got -most by people's coming to see her on account of her height. - -20th August, 1654. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large -heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a pretty town, so well -situated on the side of a bottom which is large and at a distance -environed with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider it -comparable to most inland places of England; famous is the steeple for -the exceeding height of the shaft, which is of stone. - -About eighteen miles south, we pass by a noble seat, and see Boston at a -distance. Here, we came to a parish of which the parson had tithe ale. - -Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Horninghold, from whence I -set out on this excursion. - -22d August, 1654. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable -sport. - -25th August, 1654. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's, -in Northamptonshire, built _ą la moderne_; the garden and stables -agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, and the seat naked: returned that -evening. - -27th August, 1654. Mr. Allington preached an excellent discourse from -Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those bold sermons of the -members warring against the mind, or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied -to the wicked regicides; for which he was ruined. We had no sermon in the -afternoon. - -30th August, 1654. Taking leave of my friends, who had now feasted me -more than a month, I, with my wife, etc., set our faces toward home, and -got this evening to Peterborough, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of -St. John's (one deep in the blood of our good king), built out of the -ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. The church is exceeding fair, -full of monuments of great antiquity. Here lies Queen Catherine, the -unhappy wife of Henry VIII., and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of -Scots. On the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much -inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by many sluices, cuts, -mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions; at which the city -and country about it consisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, -were much displeased. - -Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another well-built church. - -31st August, 1654. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that town, -fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds -in wheat that, when any King of England passes through it, they have a -custom to meet him with a hundred plows. - -[Sidenote: CAMBRIDGE] - -This evening, to Cambridge; and went first to St. John's College, well -built of brick, and library, which I think is the fairest of that -University. One Mr. Benlowes has given it all the ornaments of _pietra -commessa_,[51] whereof a table and one piece of perspective is very fine; -other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old -song-book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There hangs in the -library the picture of John Williams, Archbishop of York, sometime Lord -Keeper, my kinsman, and their great benefactor. - - [Footnote 51: Marble, inlaid of various colors, representing - flowers, birds, etc.] - -Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any -university in Europe; but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ -Church, in Oxford; the hall is ample and of stone, the fountain in the -quadrangle is graceful, the chapel and library fair. There they showed us -the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and -emblem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly relating to -the Swedish; in truth, it seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however -the title may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in -manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities, given by the -Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VIII., and the before-mentioned -Archbishop Williams, when Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well -stored. The Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle -cloistered and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own -chamber. - -Thence to Caius, and afterward to King's College, where I found the -chapel altogether answered expectation, especially the roof, all of -stone, which for the flatness of its laying and carving may, I conceive, -vie with any in Christendom. The contignation of the roof (which I went -upon), weight, and artificial joining of the stones is admirable. The -lights are also very fair. In one aisle lies the famous Dr. Collins, so -celebrated for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roof we could -descry Ely, and the encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to set up -their tents and booths; also Royston, Newmarket, etc., houses belonging -to the King. The library is too narrow. - -Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished. - -Peter-House, formerly under the government of my worthy friend, Dr. -Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough; a pretty neat college, having a -delicate chapel. Next to Sidney, a fine college. - -Catherine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous for the learned -Bishop Andrews, once Master. Emanuel College, that zealous house, where -to the hall they have a parlor for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, -_ab origine_, built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the -library. - -Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy situation. Next -to Christ-College, a very noble erection, especially the modern part, -built without the quadrangle toward the gardens, of exact architecture. - -The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library but mean, though -somewhat improved by the wainscoting and books lately added by the Bishop -Bancroft's library and MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only King -James's Works, being his own gift, and kept very reverently. - -The market place is very ample, and remarkable for old Hobson, the -pleasant carrier's beneficence of a fountain.[52] But the whole town is -situate in a low, dirty, unpleasant place, the streets ill-paved, the air -thick and infected by the fens, nor are its churches, (of which St. -Mary's is the best) anything considerable in compare to Oxford.[53] - - [Footnote 52: A conduit it should rather be called.] - - [Footnote 53: The reader must remember that an Oxford man is - speaking.] - -From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent some time in seeing that -goodly place built by Howard, Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is -a mixed fabric, between antique and modern, but observable for its being -completely finished, and without comparison is one of the stateliest -palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two courts, the first very large, -winged with cloisters. The front had a double entrance; the hall is fair, -but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very large, -as are the cellars, arched with stone, very neat and well disposed; these -offices are joined by a wing out of the way very handsomely. The gallery -is the most cheerful and I think one of the best in England; a fair -dining-room, and the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a pretty -chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well inclosed. It has also a -bowling-alley, a noble well-walled, wooded and watered park, full of fine -_collines_ and ponds: the river glides before the palace, to which is an -avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminished by its being placed -in an obscure bottom. For the rest, is a perfectly uniform structure, and -shows without like a diadem, by the decorations of the cupolas and other -ornaments on the pavilions; instead of rails and balusters, there is a -border of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near -Charing-Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer. - -This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for the -abundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteemed the best of any -foreign country. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d October, 1654. Having dined here, we passed through Bishop Stortford, -a pretty watered town, and so by London, late home to Sayes Court, after -a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refreshment -after my turmoil and building. - -10th October, 1654. To my brother at Wotton, who had been sick. - -14th October, 1654. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where I -met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his -Majesty's chaplains. - -15th October, 1654. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne, and -other gentlemen of my sweet and native country. - -24th October, 1654. The good old parson, Higham, preached at Wotton -Church: a plain preacher, but innocent and honest man. - -23d November, 1654. I went to London, to visit my cousin Fanshawe, and -this day I saw one of the rarest collections of agates, onyxes, and -intaglios, that I had ever seen either at home or abroad, collected by a -conceited old hatmaker in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, -heretofore the great Earl of Leicester's. - -28th November, 1654. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us; -also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer, after the Italian -manner, of any in England; he entertained us with his voice and theorbo. - -30th November, 1654. My birthday, being the 34th year of my age: blessing -God for his providence, I went to London to visit my brother. - -3d December, 1654. Advent Sunday. There being no Office at the church but -extemporary prayers after the Presbyterian way, for now all forms were -prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldom went to -church upon solemn feasts; but, either went to London, where some of the -orthodox sequestered divines did privately use the Common Prayer, -administer sacraments, etc., or else I procured one to officiate in my -house; wherefore, on the 10th, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered minister -of Eltham, preached to my family in my library, and gave us the Holy -Communion. - -25th December, 1654. Christmas day. No public offices in churches, but -penalties on observers, so as I was constrained to celebrate it at home. - -1st January, 1654-55. Having with my family performed the public offices -of the day, and begged a blessing on the year I was now entering, I went -to keep the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, at Woodcot. - -19th January, 1655. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my -third, but second living. Christened on the 26th by the name of John. - -28th January, 1655. A stranger preached from Colossians iii. 2, inciting -our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterward -that this man had been both chaplain and lieutenant to Admiral Penn, -using both swords; whether ordained or not I cannot say; into such times -were we fallen! - -24th February, 1655. I was showed a table clock whose balance was only a -crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires, without being at all fixed, but -rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring concealed from -sight, it was thrown up to the utmost channel again, made with an -imperceptible declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily -entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half giving progress -to the hand that showed the hour, and giving notice by a small bell, so -as in 120 half minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the -ejaculatory spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece -(richly adorned) had been presented by some German prince to our late -king, and was now in the possession of the usurper; valued at £200. - -2d March, 1655. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweler, showed me a most rich -agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having a figure of Cleopatra at the -scroll, her body, hair, mantle, and veil, of the several natural colors. -It was supported by a half Mark Antony, the colors rarely natural, and -the work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several pieces; had -they been all of one stone, it were invaluable. - -18th March, 1655. Went to London, on purpose to hear that excellent -preacher, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17, showing what were the -conditions of obtaining eternal life; also, concerning abatements for -unavoidable infirmities, how cast on the accounts of the cross. On the -31st, I made a visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about some -spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I -beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his -heavenly assistances! - -2d April, 1655. This was the first week, that, my uncle Pretyman being -parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now sojourning -with him in my own house. - -9th April, 1655. I went to see the great ship newly built by the usurper, -Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass guns, and 1,000 tons burden. In the -prow was Oliver on horseback, trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, -Irishman, Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made -out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his insulting -head; the word, GOD WITH US. - -15th April, 1655. I went to London with my family, to celebrate the feast -of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory's; the ruling Powers -conniving at the use of the Liturgy, etc., in the church alone. In the -afternoon, Mr. Pierson (since Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap, -but was disturbed by an alarm of fire, which about this time was very -frequent in the city. - -29th May, 1655. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley. - -17th June, 1655. There was a collection for the persecuted churches and -Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. - -3d July, 1655. I was shown a pretty Terella, described with all the -circles, and showing all the magnetic deviations. - -14th July, 1655. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir -Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr. Seymour. - -1st August, 1655. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles Howard's -amphitheater, garden, or solitary recess, being fifteen acres environed -by a hill. He showed us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. - -[Sidenote: ALBURY] - -10th August, 1655. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to -build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many rare pictures, -particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus, as big as the life, by -Holbein; a Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the skull, -carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered £100; -also Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and -other curiosities. - -21st August, 1655. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Cary, at my Lady -Peterborough's, in an ancient monastery well in repair, but the park much -defaced; the house is nobly furnished. The chimney-piece in the great -chamber, carved in wood, was of Henry VIII., and was taken from a house -of his in Bletchingley. At Ryegate, was now the Archbishop of Armagh, the -learned James Usher, whom I went to visit. He received me exceeding -kindly. In discourse with him, he told me how great the loss of time was -to study much the Eastern languages; that, excepting Hebrew, there was -little fruit to be gathered of exceeding labor; that, besides some -mathematical books, the Arabic itself had little considerable; that the -best text was the Hebrew Bible; that the Septuagint was finished in -seventy days, but full of errors, about which he was then writing; that -St. Hierome's was to be valued next the Hebrew; also that the seventy -translated the Pentateuch only, the rest was finished by others; that the -Italians at present understood but little Greek, and Kircher was a -mountebank; that Mr. Selden's best book was his "Titles of Honor"; that -the church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likelihood -bring in Popery. In conclusion he recommended to me the study of -philology, above all human studies; and so, with his blessing, I took my -leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton. - -27th August, 1655. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural bowers, -cabinets, and shady walks in the box copses: hence we walked to -Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seat, environed with elm trees and -walnuts innumerable, and of which last he told us they received a -considerable revenue. Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with -yew and box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it seeming from -these evergreens to be summer all the winter. - -28th August, 1655. Came that renowned mathematician, Mr. Oughtred, to see -me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. Among -other discourse, he told me he thought water to be the philosopher's -first matter, and that he was well persuaded of the possibility of their -elixir; he believed the sun to be a material fire, the moon a continent, -as appears by the late selenographers; he had strong apprehensions of -some extraordinary event to happen the following year, from the -calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period; and added that it -might possibly be to convert the Jews by our Savior's visible appearance, -or to judge the world; and therefore, his word was, "_Parate in -occursum_"; he said original sin was not met with in the Greek Fathers, -yet he believed the thing; this was from some discourse on Dr. Taylor's -late book, which I had lent him. - -16th September, 1655. Preached at St. Gregory's one Darnel, on Psalm iv. -4, concerning the benefit of self-examination; more learning in SO SHORT -A TIME AS AN HOUR I have seldom heard. - -17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of -Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were -so intolerable that they ate up the rents, etc., surcharged as that -county had been above all others during our unnatural war. - -19th September, 1655. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. -Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill: and, the next day, I visited Sir Henry -Newton at Charlton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady -Beauchamp, daughter to the Lord Capel. - -On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to catechize and instruct -my family, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish churches, so -as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common -points of Christianity; all devotion being now placed in hearing sermons -and discourses of speculative and national things. - -26th September, 1655. I went to see Colonel Blount's subterranean warren, -and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. - -30th September, 1655. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about his -vast design of a mole to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Sayes -Court. - -3d November, 1655. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a -Greek concerning the devastation of Poland by the late incursion of the -Swedes. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -27th November, 1655. To London about Sir Nicholas Crisp's designs. - -I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the former great -Buckingham, but now much ruined through neglect. - -Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib, a public spirited and -ingenious person, who had propagated many useful things and arts. He told -me of the castles which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany -(he himself being a Lithuanian, as I remember), which are furnished with -small ordnance of silver on the battlements, out of which they discharge -excellent perfumes about the rooms, charging them with a little powder to -set them on fire, and disperse the smoke: and in truth no more than need, -for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me of an ink that would -give a dozen copies, moist sheets of paper being pressed on it; and -remain perfect; and a receipt how to take off any print without the least -injury to the original. This gentleman was master of innumerable -curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home that evening by -water; and was afflicted for it with a cold that had almost killed me. - -This day, came forth the Protector's Edict, or Proclamation, prohibiting -all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or teaching any -schools, in which he imitated the apostate, Julian; with the decimation -of all the royal party's revenues throughout England. - -14th December, 1655. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher of -Malmesbury, with whom I had been long acquainted in France. - -Now were the Jews admitted. - -25th December, 1655. There was no more notice taken of Christmas-day in -churches. - -I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral sermon of -Preaching, this being the last day; after which Cromwell's proclamation -was to take place, that none of the Church of England should dare either -to preach, or administer Sacraments, teach schools, etc., on pain of -imprisonment, or exile. So this was the most mournful day that in my life -I had seen, or the Church of England herself, since the Reformation; to -the great rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter.[54] So pathetic was -his discourse, that it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife, -and some of our family, received the Communion, God make me thankful, who -hath hitherto provided for us the food of our souls as well as bodies! -The Lord Jesus pity our distressed Church, and bring back the captivity -of Zion! - - [Footnote 54: The text was 2 Cor. xiii 9. That, however persecution - dealt with the Ministers of God's Word, they were still to pray for - the flock, and wish their perfection, as it was the flock to pray - for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul.--EVELYN'S - NOTE.] - -5th January, 1655-56. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, son to the Earl of -Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's council; Mr. -John Hervey, and John Denham, the poet. - -18th January, 1656. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, but a -mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept me within doors -near a whole month after. - -5th February, 1656. Was shown me a pretty perspective and well -represented in a triangular box, the great Church of Haarlem in Holland, -to be seen through a small hole at one of the corners, and contrived into -a handsome cabinet. It was so rarely done, that all the artists and -painters in town flocked to see and admire it. - -10th February, 1656. I heard Dr. Wilkins preach before the Lord Mayor in -St. Paul's, showing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a -most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and took -great pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant, sacrilegious -commanders and soldiers, who would fain have demolished all places and -persons that pretended to learning. - -11th February, 1656. I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of many years I -had not been, and found it very glorious and well furnished, as far as I -could safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defaced that rare -piece of Henry VII., etc., done on the walls of the King's privy chamber. - -14th February, 1656. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley, of -Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my -fellow-traveler in Italy. - -19th February, 1656. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous -painter of fowls, beasts, and birds. - -4th March, 1656. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear -the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes and -plain ground, with that wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a -young man, yet so perfect and skillful, that there was nothing, however -cross and perplexed, brought to him by our artists, which he did not play -off at sight with ravishing sweetness and improvements, to the -astonishment of our best masters. In sum, he played on the single -instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, -acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this hour -amazed that God should give so great perfection to so young a person. -There were at that time as excellent in their profession as any were -thought to be in Europe, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this -prodigy appeared. I can no longer question the effects we read of in -David's harp to charm evil spirits, or what is said some particular notes -produced in the passions of Alexander, and that King of Denmark. - -12th April, 1656. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Robert Boyle (that excellent -person and great virtuoso), Dr. Taylor, and Dr. Wilkins, dined with me at -Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In -the afternoon, we all went to Colonel Blount's, to see his newly-invented -plows. - -22d April, 1656. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Paston's son, -since Earl of Yarmouth. Afterward, I went to see his Majesty's house at -Eltham, both palace and chapel in miserable ruins, the noble woods and -park destroyed by Rich, the rebel. - -6th May, 1656. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French Sorbonnist, a -proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they fell to dispute on original -sin, in Latin, upon a book newly published by the Doctor, who was much -satisfied with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned -antiquary and herald. Returning, I was shown the three vast volumes of -Father Kircher's, "_Obeliscus Pamphilius_" and "_Ęgyptiacus_"; in the -second volume I found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to -him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed it -from the stone itself brought me to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell. - -7th May, 1656. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to propose -Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have Orders, I having -sometime before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England, -her doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some -difficulty; so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the -Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, who was very poor and -in great want; to that necessity were our clergy reduced! In the -afternoon I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the -marriage of my cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine. - -8th May, 1656. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I first -met with Sir P. Neal, famous for his optic glasses. Greatorix, the -mathematical instrument maker, showed me his excellent invention to -quench fire. - -12th May, 1656. Was published my "Essay on Lucretius," with innumerable -errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who undertook the correction of -the press in my absence. Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then -known among us. - -28th May, 1656. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambassador, who -received me with extraordinary courtesy. I found him a judicious, crafty, -and wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the -times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the -observation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and -their private animosities, and little care of the public. - -Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since executed), Lord -Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, the -Marquis took the turtle-doves in the aviary for owls. - -The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, brother to the -Earl of Sunderland, came to see my garden. - -7th July, 1656. I began my journey to see some parts of the northeast of -England; but the weather was so excessively hot and dusty, I shortened my -progress. - -8th July, 1656. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly demolished -by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which were all burned, but -were then repairing. The town is built on a rising ground, having fair -meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to -have been built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Constantine -the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the pinnacle of one of their -wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly -carved. The walls are exceedingly strong, deeply trenched, and filled -with earth. It has six gates, and some watchtowers, and some handsome -churches. But what was shown us as a kind of miracle, at the outside of -the Castle, the wall where Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those -valiant and noble persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the last -siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in cold blood, after -surrendering on articles; having been disappointed of relief from the -Scotch army, which had been defeated with the King at Worcester. The -place was bare of grass for a large space, all the rest of it abounding -with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and factious town, now -swarming with sectaries. Their trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and -baize and says with Spain; it is the only place in England where these -stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters and eringo -root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale. - -Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very fair church, finely -situated, the valley well watered. Here, I met with Dr. Stokes, a young -gentleman, but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing town, as -most are in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. - -Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most pleasant, -well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair churches, many noble -houses, especially the Lord Devereux's; a brave quay, and commodious -harbor, being about seven miles from the main; an ample market place. -Here was born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which -was not finished. - -I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison; a new fanatic -sect, of dangerous principles, who show no respect to any man, -magistrate, or other, and seem a melancholy, proud sort of people, and -exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted twenty days; -but another, endeavoring to do the like, perished on the 10th, when he -would have eaten, but could not. - -10th July, 1656. I returned homeward, passing again through Colchester; -and, by the way, near the ancient town of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built -in a park by Henry VII. and VIII., and given by Queen Elizabeth to the -Earl of Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham, and -since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a fair -old house, built with brick, low, being only of two stories, as the -manner then was; the gate-house better; the court, large and pretty; the -staircase, of extraordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir -Francis Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; the -galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the garden a fair plot, and -the whole seat well accommodated with water; but, above all, I admired -the fair avenue planted with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a -mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and may -be reformed. There is another fair walk of the same at the mall and -wilderness, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace toward the park, -which was well stored with deer and ponds. - -11th July, 1656. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir J. -Winter's project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the sulphur, and -render it sweet. He did it by burning the coals in such earthen pots as -the glass men melt their metal, so firing them without consuming them, -using a bar of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook at one -end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace with other crude -sea-coals under them, may be drawn out of the pots sticking to the iron, -whence they are beaten off in great half-exhausted cinders, which being -rekindled, make a clear, pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their sulphur -and arsenic malignity. What success it may have, time will discover.[55] - - [Footnote 55: Many years ago, Lord Dundonald revived the project, - with the proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar. - Unfortunately he did not profit by it. The coal thus charred is sold - as COKE, a very useful fuel for many purposes.] - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d August, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Sacrament, the -first time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and -conventicle; so sharp was the persecution. The parish churches were -filled with sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics -usurping the pulpits everywhere. Dr. Wild preached in a private house in -Fleet Street, where we had a great meeting of zealous Christians, who -were generally much more devout and religious than in our greatest -prosperity. In the afternoon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, -where I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechize, and so returned to my house. - -20th August, 1656. Was a confused election of Parliament called by the -Usurper. - -7th September, 1656. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbor and -friend, Sir. H. Newton and lady, now going to dwell at Warwick; and Mr. -Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visit me. - -14th September, 1656. Now was old Sir Henry Vane[56] sent to Carisbrook -Castle, in Wight, for a foolish book he published; the pretended -Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and sending many to prison. - - [Footnote 56: Evelyn means the younger Vane. This was "Vane, young - in years, but in sage counsel old," the nobleness and independence - of whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of - posterity, are not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by - Evelyn--his imprisonment by Cromwell, and his judicial murder by - Charles II. The foolish book to which Evelyn refers was an able and - fearless attack on Cromwell's government.] - -2d October, 1656. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens, and Mr. Pierce -(since head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a learned minister of Brington, -in Northamptonshire, and Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. - -2d November, 1656. There was now nothing practical preached, or that -pressed reformation of life, but high and speculative points and strains -that few understood, which left people very ignorant, and of no steady -principles, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much -envy and uncharity in the world; God of his mercy amend it! Now, indeed, -that I went at all to church, while these usurpers possessed the pulpits, -was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that, though the -minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly -ordained, and preached sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an -humble, harmless, and peaceable man. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -25th December, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Communion, -this holy festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so -full an assembly of devout and sober Christians. - -26th December, 1656. I invited some of my neighbors and tenants, -according to custom, and to preserve hospitality and charity. - -28th December, 1656. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which he -made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek and ostentation of -learning, to but little purpose. - -30th December, 1656. Dined with me Sir William Paston's son, Mr. Henshaw, -and Mr. Clayton. - -31st December, 1656. I begged God's blessing and mercies for his goodness -to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs in order. - -1st January, 1656-57. Having prayed with my family, and celebrated the -anniversary, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the year I was -entered into. - -7th January, 1657. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the Duke), -slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner -in the Tower; a most worthy and honored gentleman. - -10th January, 1657. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and -anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins; also the old Marquis of -Argyle, and another Scotch Earl. - -5th February, 1657. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's; he told me the -East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock of £400,000 in -India, and forty-eight men-of-war there: he spoke of their exact and just -keeping their books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could -possibly be lost, or defeated; that it was a vulgar error that the -Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and ammunition for their -money, though engaged in a cruel war, but that they used to merchandise -indifferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their -enemies. He laughed at our Committee of Trade, as composed of men wholly -ignorant of it, and how they were the ruin of commerce, by gratifying -some for private ends. - -10th February, 1657. I went to visit the governor of Havannah, a brave, -sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Captain Young, of Deptford, -when, after twenty years being in the Indies, and amassing great wealth, -his lady and whole family, except two sons, were burned, destroyed, and -taken within sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and wife, -perishing with immense treasure. One son, of about seventeen years old, -with his brother of one year old, were the only ones saved. The young -gentleman, about seventeen, was a well-complexioned youth, not -olive-colored; he spoke Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and -born in the Caraccas, 1,000 miles south of the equinoctial, near the -mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe before. The Governor was -an ancient gentleman of great courage, of the order of St. Jago, sorely -wounded in his arm, and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share -£100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, -and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went with them to Arundel -House, where they dined. They were now going back into Spain, having -obtained their liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude! - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -14th February, 1657. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary; next day came Mr. -Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt), younger son to the Countess of -Peterborough, to see his mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord of -Dover's daughters: so, after dinner, they all departed. - -5th March, 1657. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to me his -version of Gassendi's "_Vita Peiriskii_." - -25th March, 1657. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of "Cases of Conscience," -or "_Ductor Dubitantium_," now fitted for the press. - -The Protector Oliver, now affecting kingship, is petitioned to take the -title on him by all his newly-made sycophant lords, etc.; but dares not, -for fear of the fanatics, not thoroughly purged out of his rebel army. - -21st April, 1657. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in Wales, to see me. -I then waited on my Lord Hatton, with whom I dined: at my return, I -stepped into Bedlam, where I saw several poor, miserable creatures in -chains; one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited the -Charter House, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, now an old, neat, -fresh, solitary college for decayed gentlemen. It has a grove, bowling -green, garden, chapel, and a hall where they eat in common. I likewise -saw Christ Church and Hospital, a very good Gothic building; the hall, -school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up many hundreds of poor -children of both sexes; it is an exemplary charity. There is a large -picture at one end of the hall, representing the governors, founders, and -the institution. - -25th April, 1657. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent -Garden, going to my brother's, but without harm; the Lord be praised! - -1st May, 1657. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house; but I thank -God went away the next day toward Flanders. - -5th May, 1657. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Baynard, in -Surrey, a house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hired. This -is a very fair, noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the -goodliest avenues of oaks up to it that ever I saw: there is a pond of 60 -acres near it; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine painted -glass. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy. - -15th May, 1657. Lawrence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other -of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and -plantations. - -7th June, 1657. My fourth son was born, christened George (after my -grandfather); Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiated in the drawing-room. - -18th June, 1657. At Greenwich I saw a sort of cat[57] brought from the -East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in the -body like a monkey, and so footed; the ears and tail like a cat, only the -tail much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white; -with the tail it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into -trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its hair was woolly -like a lamb; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purred as does the -cat. - - [Footnote 57: This was probably the animal called a Mocock - (_maucaco_), since well known.] - -16th July, 1657. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's recommendation, I went to Eltham, -to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with the -patron. - -6th August, 1657. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed me the -application of the waywiser[58] to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, -and showing them by an index as we went on. It had three circles, one -pointing to the number of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1,000, -with all the subdivisions of quarters; very pretty and useful. - - [Footnote 58: Beckmann, in his "History of Inventions," has written - an account of the different instruments applied to carriages to - measure the distance they pass over. He places the first - introduction of the _adometer_ in England at about the end of the - seventeenth century, instead of about the middle, and states it to - have been the invention of an ingenious artist named Butterfield.] - -10th August, 1657. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against the -folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, called the -FIFTH-MONARCHY-MEN, pretending to set up the kingdom of Christ with the -sword. To this pass was this age arrived when we had no King in Israel. - -21st August, 1657. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the year -was very sickly in the country. - -1st September, 1657. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his melancholy seat -at Camberwell. He has a very pretty grove of oaks, and hedges of yew in -his garden, and a handsome row of tall elms before his court. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -15th September, 1657. Going to London with some company, we stepped in to -see a famous rope-dancer, called THE TURK. I saw even to astonishment the -agility with which he performed. He walked barefooted, taking hold by his -toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touching -it with his hands; he danced blind-fold on the high rope, and with a boy -of twelve years old tied to one of his feet about twenty feet beneath -him, dangling as he danced, yet he moved as nimbly as if it had been but -a feather. Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very high mast, -danced on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew down the -perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and arms -extended, with divers other activities.--I saw the hairy woman, twenty -years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was born at Augsburg, -in Germany. Her very eyebrows were combed upward, and all her _forehead_ -as thick and even as grows on any woman's head, neatly dressed; a very -long lock of hair out of each ear; she had also a most prolix beard, and -_moustachios_, with long locks growing on the middle of her nose, like an -Iceland dog exactly, the color of a bright brown, fine as well-dressed -flax. She was now married, and told me she had one child that was not -hairy, nor were any of her parents, or relations. She was very well -shaped, and played well on the harpsichord. - -17th September, 1657. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a relation -of mine; and thence to John Tradescant's museum, in which the chiefest -rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian, and other -nations' armor, shields, and weapons; some habits of curiously-colored -and wrought feathers, one from the phoenix wing, as tradition goes. -Other innumerable things there were printed in his catalogue by Mr. -Ashmole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeathed, and by -him designed as a gift to Oxford. - -19th October, 1657. I went to see divers gardens about London: returning, -I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian rattlesnakes alive, exceeding a -yard in length, small heads, slender tails, but in the middle nearly the -size of my leg; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as -loud as a child's rattle; this, by the collision of certain gristly skins -curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which they -give warning; a providential caution for other creatures to avoid them. -The Doctor tried their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately -killed: but their vigor must needs be much exhausted here, in another -climate, and kept only in a barrel of bran. - -22d October, 1657. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with whom I -had now contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to the -intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty abroad. - -26th November, 1657. I went to London, to a court of the East India -Company on its new union, in Merchant-Taylors' Hall, where was much -disorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers -obliged only by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might -pursue their private trade; but it was carried against them. Wednesday -was fixed on for a general court for election of officers, after a sermon -and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was £800,000. - -27th November, 1657. I took the oath at the East India House, subscribing -£500. - -2d December, 1657. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preached before -the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by -the example of Nehemiah, all the perfections of a trusty person in -public affairs, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending -with a prayer for God's blessing on the company and the undertaking. - -3d December, 1657. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3, against the -Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity of the sacrament of -baptism. This sect was now wonderfully spread. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -25th December, 1657. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate -Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel, on Micah vii. 2. -Sermon ended, as he was giving us the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was -surrounded with soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised -and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried away. It -fell to my share to be confined to a room in the house, where yet I was -permitted to dine with the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady -Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. In the afternoon, came -Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from Whitehall, to examine us one by -one; some they committed to the marshal, some to prison. When I came -before them, they took my name and abode, examined me why, contrary to -the ordinance made, that none should any longer observe the superstitious -time of the nativity (so esteemed by them), I durst offend, and -particularly be at common prayers, which they told me was but the mass in -English, and particularly pray for Charles Stuart; for which we had no -Scripture. I told them we did not pray for Charles Stuart, but for all -Christian kings, princes, and governors. They replied, in so doing we -prayed for the king of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist, with -other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much threatening; and, -finding no color to detain me, they dismissed me with much pity of my -ignorance. These were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spoke -spiteful things of our Lord's nativity. As we went up to receive the -Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets against us, as if they would -have shot us at the altar; but yet suffering us to finish the office of -Communion, as perhaps not having instructions what to do, in case they -found us in that action. So I got home late the next day; blessed be God! - -27th January, 1657-58. After six fits of a quartan ague, with which it -pleased God to visit him, died my dear son, Richard, to our -inexpressible grief and affliction, five years and three days old only, -but at that tender age a prodigy for wit and understanding; for beauty of -body, a very angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare hopes. -To give only a little taste of them, and thereby glory to God, who "out -of the mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises," -he had learned all his catechism; at two years and a half old, he could -perfectly read any of the English, Latin, French, or Gothic letters, -pronouncing the first three languages exactly. He had, before the fifth -year, or in that year, not only skill to read most written hands, but to -decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the -irregular; learned out "Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire -vocabulary of Latin and French primitives and words, could make congruous -syntax, turn English into Latin, and _vice versā_, construe and prove -what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, -substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a -considerable progress in Comenius's "_Janua_"; began himself to write -legibly, and had a strong passion for Greek. The number of verses he -could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered of the parts of -plays, which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, -he asked what book it was, and, being told it was comedy, and too -difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious -application of fables and morals; for he had read Ęsop; he had a -wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions -of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and -demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing were his applications of -Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God; he had learned all his -catechism early, and understood the historical part of the Bible and New -Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to redeem mankind, and how, -comprehending these necessaries himself, his godfathers were discharged -of their promise. - -These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age and experience, -considering the prettiness of his address and behavior, cannot but leave -impressions in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many days a -Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder; for Christ had said -that man should not live by bread alone, but by the Word of God. He would -of himself select the most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to -read to his maid during his sickness, telling her, when she pitied him, -that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaimed against the -vanities of the world, before he had seen any. Often he would desire -those who came to see him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, -to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully would he -receive admonition! how soon be reconciled! how indifferent, yet -continually cheerful! He would give grave advice to his brother, John, -bear with his impertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard of -or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how it was made; he -brought to us all such difficulties as he found in books, to be -expounded. He had learned by heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek, -which, on occasion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all -prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in anything he said or -did. The last time he had been at church (which was at Greenwich), I -asked him, according to custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two -good things, Father, said he, _bonum gratię_ and _bonum glorię_, with a -just account of what the preacher said. - -The day before he died, he called to me: and in a more serious manner -than usual, told me that for all I loved him so dearly I should give my -house, land, and all my fine things to his brother Jack, he should have -none of them; and, the next morning, when he found himself ill, and that -I persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he demanded whether he might -pray to God with his hands unjoined; and a little after, while in great -agony, whether he should not offend God by using his holy name so often -calling for ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical -ejaculations uttered of himself: "Sweet Jesus, save me, deliver me, -pardon my sins, let thine angels receive me!" So early knowledge, so much -piety and perfection! But thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for -himself, would not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future -fruits of this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a Child I never saw: -for such a child I bless God, in whose bosom he is! May I and mine -become as this little child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of -God in a white robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus, _fiat -voluntas tua_! Thou gavest him to us, thou hast taken him from us, -blessed be the name of the Lord! That I had anything acceptable to thee -was from thy grace alone, seeing from me he had nothing but sin, but that -thou hast pardoned! blessed be my God for ever, Amen. - -In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and maids that attended -him, and covered him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an -excessive hot fire in a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when -they found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I caused his -body to be coffined in lead, and deposited on the 30th at eight o'clock -that night in the church at Deptford, accompanied with divers of my -relations and neighbors, among whom I distributed rings with this motto: -"_Dominus abstulit_;" intending, God willing, to have him transported -with my own body to be interred in our dormitory in Wotton Church, in my -dear native county of Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with -my fathers, if God be gracious to me, and make me as fit for him as this -blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify this and all other my -afflictions, Amen. - -Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to the -grave. - -15th February, 1658. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it -pleased him also to take away from us this morning my youngest son, -George, now seven weeks languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending -in a dropsy. God's holy will be done! He was buried in Deptford Church, -the 17th following. - -25th February, 1658. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with other -friends, to visit and condole with us. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th March, 1658. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house on Luke -xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed the blessed Communion, of which -I participated. In the afternoon, Dr. Gunning, at Exeter House, -expounding part of the Creed. - -This had been the severest winter that any man alive had known in -England. The crows' feet were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice -inclosed both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boats. - -15th May, 1658, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical sickness, very -mortal this spring. - -20th May, 1658. I went to see a coach race in Hyde Park, and collationed -in Spring Garden. - -23d May, 1658. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached at Covent -Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the kingdom of God was, how pray -for it, etc. - -There was now a collection for persecuted and sequestered Ministers of -the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day! The -Church now in dens and caves of the earth. - -31st May, 1658. I went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose son, Mr. -Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but -by one voice; but that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die -without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they -called it. A dangerous, treacherous time! - -2d June, 1658. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain, the season as -cold as winter, the wind northerly near six months. - -3d June, 1658. A large whale was taken between my land abutting on the -Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by -water, horse, coach, and on foot, from London, and all parts. It appeared -first below Greenwich at low water, for at high water it would have -destroyed all the boats, but lying now in shallow water encompassed with -boats, after a long conflict, it was killed with a harping iron, struck -in the head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tunnels; and -after a horrid groan, it ran quite on shore, and died. Its length was -fifty-eight feet, height sixteen; black skinned, like coach leather; very -small eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a peaked snout and a mouth -so wide, that divers men might have stood upright in it; no teeth, but -sucked the slime only as through a grate of that bone which we call -whalebone; the throat yet so narrow, as would not have admitted the least -of fishes. The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang downward from the -upper jaw, and are hairy toward the ends and bottom within side: all of -it prodigious; but in nothing more wonderful than that an animal of so -great a bulk should be nourished only by slime through those grates. - -8th June, 1658. That excellent preacher and holy man, Dr. Hewer, was -martyred for having intelligence with his Majesty, through the Lord -Marquis of Ormond. - -9th June, 1658. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, -whereof that of the Venetian Senators was one of the best of Titian's and -another of Andrea del Sarto, viz, a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old -Woman; a St. Catherine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Vandyck; a -Nativity of Georgioni; the last of our blessed Kings (Charles I.), and -the Duke of York, by Lely, a Rosary by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, -and several more. This was in Suffolk House: the new front toward the -gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a too massy and clumsy pair -of stairs of stone, without any neat invention. - -10th June, 1658. I went to see the Medical Garden at Westminster, well -stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skillful botanist. - -26th June, 1658. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d July, 1658. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, and Mr. -Ashmole, founder of the Oxford repository of rarities, with divers -doctors of physic and virtuosos. - -15th July, 1658. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir Robert -Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby, of Parham. - -3d August, 1658. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is -excellent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house, -and removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric, though not -comparable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all the -powder mills. - -5th August, 1658. We went to Squirries to visit my Cousin Leech, daughter -to Sir John; a pretty, finely wooded, well watered seat, the stables -good, the house old, but convenient. 6th. Returned to Wotton. - -10th August, 1658. I dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the -famous Sir Walter. - -14th August, 1658. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged match at -bowls for £10, which we won. - -18th August, 1658. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle, in that -tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest trees at Sayes Court, and -did so much mischief all over England. It continued the whole night; -and, till three in the afternoon of the next day, in the southwest, and -destroyed all our winter fruit. - -3d September, 1658. Died that arch-rebel, Oliver Cromwell, called -Protector. - -16th September, 1658. Was published my translation of St. Chrysostom on -"Education of Children," which I dedicated to both my brothers to comfort -them on the loss of their children. - -21st September, 1658. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited me to -dinner. - -26th September, 1658. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv. 24; a -Quaker would have disputed with him. In the afternoon, we heard Dr. -Hacket (since Bishop of Litchfield) at Cheam, where the family of the -Lumleys lie buried. - -27th September, 1658. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews, a -fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the first orange garden -in England, being now overgrown trees, planted in the ground, and secured -in winter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely -watered, lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pomegranates -bear here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence, to Carshalton, -excellently watered, and capable of being made a most delicious seat, -being on the sweet downs, and a champaign about it full planted with -walnut and cherry trees, which afford a considerable rent. - -Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the shepherds, I found that -digging about the bottom near Sir Christopher Buckle's,[59] near -Banstead, divers medals have been found, both copper and silver, with -foundations of houses, urns, etc. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city of -the Romans. See Antonine's "Itineraries." - - [Footnote 59: Not far from the course of the Roman Road from - Chichester, through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking - churchyard. Considerable remains of a Roman building have since been - found on Waltonheath, south of this house.] - -29th September, 1658. I returned home, after a ten weeks' absence. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d October, 1658. I went to London, to receive the Holy Sacrament. - -On the 3d, Dr. Wild preached in a private place on Isaiah i. 4, showing -the parallel between the sins of Israel and those of England. In the -afternoon, Mr. Hall (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor. vi. 2, -of the dignity of the Saints; a most excellent discourse. - -4th October, 1658. I dined with the Holland ambassador, at Derby House: -returning, I diverted to see a very WHITE RAVEN, bred in Cumberland; also -a porcupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, of which see Claudian; -it was headed like a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like -a bear. - -19th October, 1658. I was summoned to London, by the commissioners for -new buildings; afterward, to the commission of sewers; but because there -was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted -without a king, I got to be excused, and returned home. - -22d October, 1658. Saw the superb funeral of the protector. He was -carried from Somerset House in a velvet bed of state, drawn by six -horses, housed with the same; the pall held by his new lords; Oliver -lying in effigy, in royal robes, and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and -globe, like a king. The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers -of the army; the imperial banners, achievements, etc., by the heralds in -their coats; a rich caparisoned horse, embroidered all over with gold; a -knight of honor, armed _cap-a-pie_, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, -and innumerable mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to -Westminster: but it was the most joyful funeral I ever saw; for there -were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a -barbarous noise, drinking and taking tobacco in the streets as they went. - -I returned not home till the 17th of November. - -I was summoned again to London by the commissioners for new foundations -to be erected within such a distance of London. - -6th December, 1658. Now was published my "French Gardener," the first and -best of the kind that introduced the use of the olitory garden to any -purpose. - -23d December, 1658. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my cousin, -George Tuke's, at Cressing Temple, in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood. - -25th December, 1658. Here was no public service, but what we privately -used. I blessed God for his mercies the year past; and 1st of January, -begged a continuance of them. Thus, for three Sundays, by reason of the -incumbent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, though there -was a chapel in the house. - -17th January, 1659. Our old vicar preached, taking leave of the parish in -a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the city. - -24th March, 1659. I went to London, to speak to the patron, Alderman -Cuttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church. - -5th April, 1659. Came the Earl of Northampton and the famous painter, Mr. -Wright, to visit me. - -10th April, 1659. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the living of -our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon preparatory to the Holy -Sacrament. - -25th April, 1659. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of the -public; the new protector, Richard, slighted; several pretenders and -parties strive for the government: all anarchy and confusion; Lord have -mercy on us! - -5th May, 1659. I went to visit my brother in London; and next day, to see -a new opera, after the Italian way, in recitative music and scenes, much -inferior to the Italian composure and magnificence; but it was prodigious -that in a time of such public consternation such a vanity should be kept -up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company, could not decently -resist the going to see it, though my heart smote me for it. - -7th May, 1659. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his lady to visit me, -and stayed the whole afternoon. - -12th May, 1659. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the -revolutions, etc. - -19th May, 1659. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a -Scotch Lord and learned: also my brother and his lady, Lord Berkeley and -his lady, Mrs. Shirley, and the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,[60] and other -friends. - - [Footnote 60: Afterward one of Charles II.'s mistresses.] - -23d May, 1659. I went to Rookwood, and dined with Sir William Hicks, -where was a great feast and much company. It is a melancholy old house, -environed with trees and rooks. - -26th May, 1659. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir William -Ducie, and Sir George Pott's son of Norfolk. - -29th May, 1659. The nation was now in extreme confusion and unsettled, -between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church of England -breathing as it were her last; so sad a face of things had overspread us. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th June, 1659. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see the -foundations now laying for a long street and buildings in Hatton Garden, -designed for a little town, lately an ample garden. - -1st September, 1659. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle, son to the Earl -of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philosophic and mathematic college. - -15th September, 1659. Came to see me Mr. Brereton,[61] a very learned -gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. -Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk. - - [Footnote 61: William, afterward third Lord Brereton; an - accomplished and able man, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the - Royal Society. He died in 1679.] - -30th September, 1659. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel -Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveler and water -drinker. - -10th October, 1659. I came with my wife and family to London: took -lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for the -winter, my son being very unwell. - -11th October, 1659. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since -secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty -gentleman. - -The Army now turned out the Parliament. We had now no government in the -nation: all in confusion; no magistrate either owned or pretended; but -the soldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on us, and -settle us! - -17th October, 1659. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel House, who gave me a -fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design of a palace there. - -21st October, 1659. A private fast was kept by the Church of England -Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of his judgments, with -devout prayers for his mercy to our calamitous Church. - -7th November, 1659. Was published my bold "Apology for the King" in this -time of danger, when it was capital to speak or write in favor of him. It -was twice printed; so universally it took. - -9th November, 1659. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity of our -Church. - -12th November, 1659. I went to see the several drugs for the confection -of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an ingenious -apothecary had not only prepared and ranged on a large and very long -table, but covered every ingredient with a sheet of paper, on which was -very lively painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it -plant, flower, animal, or other exotic drug. - -15th November, 1659. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a manner -acknowledge that his nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out of -gratitude, but collaterally as it relates to their gain, or security; and -therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the -banished King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though an -ingenuous confession. - -18th November, 1659. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and preached -on Phil. ii. 12, 13. - -24th November, 1659. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the -forty-first wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. - -26th November, 1659. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers -learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, -and others. - -9th December, 1659. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being our fast day, Dr. -Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild, and other -devout and learned divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note: -Most of them since made bishops. - -10th December, 1659. I treated privately with Colonel Morley, then -Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power, concerning -delivering it to the King, and the bringing of him in, to the great -hazard of my life, but the Colonel had been my schoolfellow, and I knew -would not betray me. - -12th December, 1659. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty, pursuing -the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his brother-in-law, Fay, -Governor of Portsmouth. - -18th December, 1659. Preached that famous divine, Dr. Sanderson (since -Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on Jer. xxx. 13, concerning the -evil of forsaking God. - -29th December, 1659. Came my Lord Count Arundel, of Wardour, to visit me. -I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. - -31st December, 1659. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God -for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year. - -ANNUS MIRABILIS, January 1st, 1659-60. Begging God's blessings for the -following year, I went to Exeter Chapel, when Mr. Gunning began the year -on Galatians iv. 3-7, showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood so -early for us. - -12th January, 1660. Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his -Majesty. - -22d January, 1660. I went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley. After -dinner I discoursed with him; but he was very jealous, and would not -believe that Monk came in to do the King any service; I told him that he -might do it without him, and have all the honor. He was still doubtful, -and would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d February, 1660. Kept the Fast. General Monk came now to London out of -Scotland; but no man knew what he would do or declare; yet he was met on -his way by the gentlemen of all the counties which he passed with -petitions that he would recall the old long-interrupted Parliament, and -settle the nation in some order, being at this time in most prodigious -confusion, and under no government, everybody expecting what would be -next and what he would do. - -10th February, 1660. Now were the gates of the city broken down by -General Monk; which exceedingly exasperated the city, the soldiers -marching up and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the -fanatics put out of their posts and sent out of town. - -11th February, 1660. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and -wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreme power, and -having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission, -repenting of what he had done to the city, and where he and his forces -were quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of robbers, -and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so called as -retaining some few rotten members of the other) being dissolved; and for -joy whereof were many thousands of rumps roasted publicly in the streets -at the bonfires this night, with ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. -This was the first good omen. - -From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed with a kind of -double tertian, the cruel effects of the spleen and other distempers, in -that extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, -were in great doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to deliver me out -of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks: going to church -the 8th, and receiving the blessed eucharist. - -During this sickness came divers of my relations and friends to visit me, -and it retarded my going into the country longer than I intended; -however, I wrote and printed a letter in defense of his Majesty,[62] -against a wicked forged paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels to -defame his Majesty's person and virtues and render him odious, now when -everybody was in hope and expectation of the General and Parliament -recalling him, and establishing the Government on its ancient and right -basis. The doing this toward the decline of my sickness, and sitting up -long in my bed, had caused a small relapse, out of which it yet pleased -God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go into the country, -which I did to my sweet and native air at Wotton. - - [Footnote 62: With the title of "The Late News, or Message from - Brussels Unmasked." This, and the pamphlet which gave rise to it, - are reprinted in "Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings."] - -3d May, 1660. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious -declaration and applications to the Parliament, General, and people, and -their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloody and -unreasonable rebellion of near twenty years. Praised be forever the Lord -of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, because his mercy endureth -forever. - -8th May, 1660. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in London, etc. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -9th May, 1660. I was desired and designed to accompany my Lord Berkeley -with the public address of the Parliament, General, etc., to the King, -and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he being -now at Breda; but I was yet so weak, I could not make that journey by -sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to London to -excuse myself, returning the 10th, having yet received a gracious message -from his Majesty by Major Scot and Colonel Tuke. - -24th May, 1660. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his pardon, -now too late, seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by -which, if he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the -same ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a -post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and fear kept him -from that blessing and honor. I addressed him to Lord Mordaunt, then in -great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of £1,000, as -I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not -undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over to his -Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in his hands! - -29th May, 1660. This day, his Majesty, Charles II. came to London, after -a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and -Church, being seventeen years. This was also his birthday, and with a -triumph of above 20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords, and -shouting with inexpressible joy; the ways strewn with flowers, the bells -ringing, the streets hung with tapestry, fountains running with wine; the -Mayor, Aldermen, and all the companies, in their liveries, chains of -gold, and banners; Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and -velvet; the windows and balconies, all set with ladies; trumpets, music, -and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Rochester, so as they -were seven hours in passing the city, even from two in the afternoon till -nine at night. - -I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God. And all this was -done without one drop of blood shed, and by that very army which rebelled -against him: but it was the Lord's doing, for such a restoration was -never mentioned in any history, ancient or modern, since the return of -the Jews from their Babylonish captivity; nor so joyful a day and so -bright ever seen in this nation, this happening when to expect or effect -it was past all human policy. - -4th June, 1660. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne's landing at -Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which I was to deliver at -Whitehall, not as yet presenting myself to his Majesty, by reason of the -infinite concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, -to see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that he had scarce -leisure to eat for some days, coming as they did from all parts of the -nation; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, -would have none kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of people. - -Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his Majesty, when very -few noblemen were with him, and kissed his hands, being very graciously -received. I then returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came not -till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which time he kept -up in his chapel the Liturgy and Offices of the Church of England, to his -no small honor, and in a time when it was so low, and as many thought -utterly lost, that in various controversies both with Papists and -Sectaries, our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church, -from his chapel and congregation. - -I was all this week to and fro at court about business. - -16th June, 1660. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make -their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pronouncing the -harangue with great eloquence. - -18th June, 1660. I proposed the embassy to Constantinople for Mr. -Henshaw; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in. - -Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the Rebellion were now -daily brought in, and restored upon proclamation; as plate, hangings, -pictures, etc. - -22d June, 1660. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and -chief towns in all the three nations) presented their congratulatory -address. It was carried by my Lord Northampton. - -30th June, 1660. The Sussex gentlemen presented their address, to which -was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his Majesty's hand, who was -pleased to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance, -and speaking very graciously to me. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d July, 1660. I went to Hyde Park, where was his Majesty, and abundance -of gallantry. - -4th July, 1660. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the House of Lords, -in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at -Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men, that -suffered in cold blood, after articles of rendition. - -5th July, 1660. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and splendor as -any earthly prince could do to the great city feast, the first they had -invited him to since his return; but the exceeding rain which fell all -that day much eclipsed its lustres. This was at Guildhall, and there was -also all the Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The streets were -adorned with pageants, at immense cost. - -6th July, 1660. His Majesty began first to TOUCH FOR THE EVIL! according -to custom, thus: his Majesty sitting under his state in the banqueting -house, the chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought, or led, up to the -throne, where they kneeling, the King strokes their faces, or cheeks with -both his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain in his formalities -says, "He put his hands upon them, and he healed them." This is said to -every one in particular. When they have all been touched, they come up -again in the same order, and the other chaplain kneeling, and having -angel gold[63] strung on white ribbon on his arm, delivers them one by -one to his Majesty, who puts them about the necks of the touched as they -pass, while the first chaplain repeats, "That is the true light who came -into the world." Then follows, an Epistle (as at first a Gospel) with the -Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration; lastly the blessing; -and then the Lord Chamberlain and the Comptroller of the Household bring -a basin, ewer, and towel, for his Majesty to wash. - - [Footnote 63: Pieces of money, so called from the figure of an angel - on them.] - -The King received a congratulatory address from the city of Cologne, in -Germany, where he had been some time in his exile; his Majesty saying -they were the best people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him -that he ever met with. I recommended Monsieur Messary to be Judge -Advocate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earl of -St. Albans; and saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend, my Lord -Ossory, son to the Marquis of Ormond, after many years' absence returned -home. - -8th July, 1660. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5, concerning -Christian circumspection. From henceforth, was the Liturgy publicly used -in our churches, whence it had been for so many years banished. - -15th July, 1660. Came Sir George Carteret and lady to visit us: he was -now Treasurer of the Navy. - -28th July, 1660. I heard his Majesty's speech in the Lords' House, on -passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage; restoration of my Lord Ormond -to his estate in Ireland; concerning the commission of sewers, and -continuance of the excise. In the afternoon I saluted my old friend, the -Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). He -presented several Irish divines to be promoted as Bishops in that -kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdoms being now almost worn -out, and the Sees vacant. - -31st July, 1660. I went to visit Sir Philip Warwick, now secretary to the -Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. - -19th August, 1660. Our vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles to the -congregation, the national assemblies beginning now to settle, and -wanting instruction. - -23d August, 1660. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish -Lords, to see my garden. - -25th August, 1660. Colonel Spencer, colonel of a regiment of horse in our -county of Kent, sent to me, and intreated that I would take a commission -for a troop of horse, and that I would nominate my lieutenant and -ensigns; I thanked him for the honor intended me; but would by no means -undertake the trouble. - -4th September, 1660. I was invited to an ordination by the Bishop of -Bangor, in Henry VII.'s chapel, Westminster, and afterward saw the -audience of an Envoyée from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his -Majesty's return. - -5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyée of the -King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, etc. - -7th September, 1660. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his -pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence, to Kensington, to -visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that evening. - -13th September, 1660. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, monkeys -and apes dance, and do other feats of activity on the high rope; they -were gallantly clad _į la monde_, went upright, saluted the company, -bowing and pulling off their hats; they saluted one another with as good -a grace as if instructed by a dancing master; they turned heels over head -with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any; also, with lighted -candles in their hands, and on their heads, without extinguishing them, -and with vessels of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian -wench dance, and perform all the tricks on the high rope to admiration; -all the Court went to see her. Likewise, here was a man who took up a -piece of iron cannon of about 400lb. weight with the hair of his head -only. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -17th September, 1660. Went to London, to see the splendid entry of the -Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spain; he was general of -the Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied with divers -great persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train -consisted of seventeen coaches, with six horses of his own, besides a -great number of English, etc. Greater bravery had I never seen. He was -received in the Banqueting House, in exceeding state, all the great -officers of Court attending. - -23d September, 1660. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duke -of Gloucester died of the smallpox, in the prime of youth, and a prince -of extraordinary hopes. - -27th September, 1660. The King received the merchant's addresses in his -closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to keep Jamaica, -choosing Sir Edward Massey Governor. In the afternoon, the Danish -Ambassador's condolences were presented, on the death of the Duke of -Gloucester. This evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince -of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. - -6th October, 1660. I paid the great tax of poll money, levied for -disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire £10, and one -shilling for every servant in my house. - -7th October, 1660. There dined with me a French count, with Sir George -Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queen-Mother, -to break the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. -The Queen would fain have undone it; but it seems matters were -reconciled, on great offers of the Chancellor's to befriend the Queen, -who was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affairs -go through his hands. - -11th October, 1660. The regicides who sat on the life of our late King, -were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before a commission of oyer and -terminer. - -14th October, 1660. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, -were executed. - -17th October, 1660. Scot, Scroop, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of -their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of the place where they put -to death their natural prince, and in the presence of the King his son, -whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their -quarters, mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought from the -gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculous providence of God! - -28th October, 1660. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -29th October, 1660. Going to London, my Lord Mayor's show stopped me in -Cheapside; one of the pageants represented a great wood, with the royal -oak, and history of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. - -31st October, 1660. Arrived now to my fortieth year, I rendered to -Almighty God my due and hearty thanks. - -1st November, 1660. I went with some of my relations to Court, to show -them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of rarities; the rare miniatures of -Peter Oliver, after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I -infinitely esteem; also, that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done -in enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and -intaglios, especially a medallion of Cęsar, as broad as my hand; -likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a landscape of needlework, -formerly presented by the Dutch to King Charles I. Here I saw a vast book -of maps, in a volume near four yards large; a curious ship model; and, -among the clocks, one that showed the rising and setting of the sun in -the zodiac; the sun represented by a face and rays of gold, upon an azure -sky, observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and setting behind a -landscape of hills,--the work of our famous Fromantil,--and several other -rarities. - -3d October, 1660. Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence she had -been banished for almost twenty years; together with her illustrious -daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers princes and noblemen, -accompanying them. - -15th October, 1660. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand. - -20th October, 1660. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller's of the Green -Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the Court diet, and -settling of his Majesty's household. - -23d October, 1660. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess -Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers -of my old friends and acquaintances abroad; his Majesty carrying my wife -to salute the Queen and Princess, and then led her into his closet, and -with his own hands showed her divers curiosities. - -25th October, 1660. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke ii. 14, -of the glory to be given God for all his mercies, especially for -restoring the Church and government; now the service was performed with -music, voices, etc., as formerly. - -27th November, 1660. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green Cloth] -by the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the land at Sayes Court, on -which I had pretense, and to make his report. - -6th December, 1660. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. -Now were presented to his Majesty those two rare pieces of drollery, or -rather a Dutch Kitchen, painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be -distinguished from enamel. I was also shown divers rich jewels and -crystal vases; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian's master; Christ in -the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci; two incomparable heads, by Holbein; the -Queen-Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life; an exquisite -piece of carving; two unicorn's horns, etc. This in the closet. - -13th December, 1660. I presented my son, John, to the Queen-Mother, who -kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. - -14th December, 1660. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of -Ormond, and Countess of Guildford, all of whom we had known abroad in -exile. - -18th December, 1660. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, -grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had -recommended him as secretary. - -21st December, 1660. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the -smallpox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of the whole -Court. - -22d December, 1660. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being now -newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's intimate -acquaintance when she waited on the Princess of Orange; she was now at -her father's, at Worcester House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand, -as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Countess of -Northumberland. This was a strange change--can it succeed well?--I spent -the evening at St. James's, whither the Princess Henrietta was retired -during the fatal sickness of her sister, the Princess of Orange, now come -over to salute the King her brother. The Princess gave my wife an -extraordinary compliment and gracious acceptance, for the "Character"[64] -she had presented her the day before, and which was afterward printed. - - [Footnote 64: "A Character of England," reprinted in Evelyn's - "Miscellaneous Writings," pp. 141-67.] - -25th December, 1660. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, Clerk of his -Majesty's Closet, and my dear friend, now Dean of Westminster, on Luke -ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach made in the public joy by the lamented -death of the Princess. - -30th December, 1660. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the Green -Cloth. - -31st December, 1660. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies to -myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year. - -2d January, 1661. The Queen-Mother, with the Princess Henrietta, began -her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her return into France. - -5th January, 1661. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom I -had been well acquainted abroad. - -6th January, 1661. Dr. Allestree preached at the Abbey, after which four -Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich, ... - -This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some FIFTH-MONARCHY -ENTHUSIASTS. Some of them were examined at the Council the next day; but -could say nothing to extenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal. - -I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for one of the Council), -by suffrage of the rest of the members, a Fellow of the Philosophic -Society now meeting at Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers -learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's return; -but it had been begun some years before at Oxford, and was continued with -interruption here in London during the Rebellion. - -There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some were slain. - -16th January, 1661. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examined -the Torricellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, -and had recommended to me the publishing what I had written of -Chalcography. - -25th January, 1661. After divers years since I had seen any play, I went -to see acted "The Scornful Lady," at a new theater in Lincoln's-Inn -Fields. - -30th January, 1661. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to -deplore the sins which had so long provoked God against this afflicted -church and people, ordered by Parliament to be annually celebrated to -expiate the guilt of the execrable murder of the late King. - -This day (Oh, the stupendous and inscrutable judgments of God!) were the -carcasses of those arch-rebels, Cromwell, Bradshawe (the judge who -condemned his Majesty), and Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged -out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn, and -hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning till six at night, -and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument in a deep pit; -thousands of people who had seen them in all their pride being -spectators. Look back at October 22, 1658,[65] and be astonished! and -fear God and honor the King; but meddle not with them who are given to -change! - - [Footnote 65: The entry in the "Diary" describing the Protector's - funeral.] - -6th February, 1661. To London, to our Society, where I gave notice of the -visit of the Danish Ambassador-Extraordinary, and was ordered to return -him their acceptance of that honor, and to invite him the next meeting -day. - -10th February, 1661. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-house, on Matthew vi. -33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after sermon, the Bishop (Dr. -Wren) gave us the blessing, very pontifically. - -13th February, 1661. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at -Gresham College, where were shown him various experiments in vacuo, and -other curiosities. - -21st February, 1661. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in _mezzo -tinto_. - -26th February, 1661. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at Parson's Green. - -27th February, 1661. Ash Wednesday. Preached before the King the Bishop -of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25, concerning charity and -forgiveness. - -8th March, 1661. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and delivered to him the -state of my concernment at Sayes Court. - -9th March, 1661. I went with that excellent person and philosopher, Sir -Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw divers effects of -the eolipile for weighing air. - -13th March, 1661. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. Browne's pretense to the -Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to which, as having been about -forty years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes -of every Fellow except one; but the statutes of the house being so that, -unless every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, who is -the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomination -to Sir T. Clayton, resident there, and the Physic Professor: for which I -was not at all displeased, because, though Sir Richard missed it by much -ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being no Fellow), yet it -would have hindered Sir Richard from attending at Court to settle his -greater concerns, and so have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined -to have passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at that -time, for many reasons. So I took leave of his Grace, who was formerly -Lord Treasurer in the reign of Charles I. - -This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed me, with his own hands, the new way -of graving, called _mezzo tinto_, which afterward, by his permission, I -published in my "History of Chalcography"; this set so many artists on -work, that they soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to, -emulating the tenderest miniatures. - -Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of Teneriffe, in the -Great Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural -things reported of that island. - -I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for France, as sent by -his Majesty to condole the death of that great Minister and politician, -Count Mazarine. - -29th March, 1661. Dr. Heylin (author of the "Geography") preached at the -Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and charity; he was, I -think, at this time quite dark, and so had been for some years. - -31st March, 1661. This night, his Majesty promised to make my wife Lady -of the Jewels (a very honorable charge) to the future Queen (but which he -never performed). - -1st April, 1661. I dined with that great mathematician and virtuoso, -Monsieur Zulichem, inventor of the pendule clock, and discoverer of the -phenomenon of Saturn's annulus: he was elected into our Society. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th April, 1661. To London, and saw the bathing and rest of the -ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the coronation; it -was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster. I might have received this -honor; but declined it. The rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at -Whitehall, when their swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop -delivered them. - -22d April, 1661. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from the Tower -of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in the Banqueting House create six -Earls, and as many Barons, viz: - -Edward Lord Hyde, Lord Chancellor, Earl of Clarendon; supported by the -Earls of Northumberland and Sussex; the Earl of Bedford carried the cap -and coronet, the Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the -mantle. - - Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex. - Brudenell, Cardigan; - Valentia, Anglesea; - Greenvill, Bath; and - Howard, Earl of Carlisle. - -The Barons were: Denzille Holles; Cornwallis; Booth; Townsend; Cooper; -Crew; who were led up by several Peers, with Garter and officers of arms -before them; when, after obedience on their several approaches to the -throne, their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms, which being -received by the Lord Chamberlain, and delivered to his Majesty, and by -him to the Secretary of State, were read, and then again delivered to his -Majesty, and by him to the several Lords created; they were then robed, -their coronets and collars put on by his Majesty, and they were placed in -rank on both sides of the state and throne; but the Barons put off their -caps and circles, and held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on -their coronets, as cousins to the King. - -I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several archtriumphals -built in the streets at several eminent places through which his Majesty -was next day to pass, some of which, though temporary, and to stand but -one year, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. - -23d April, 1661. Was the coronation of his Majesty Charles II. in the -Abbey-Church of Westminster; at all which ceremony I was present. The -King and his Nobility went to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount -Mordaunt part of the way; this was on Sunday, the 22d; but indeed his -Majesty went not till early this morning, and proceeded from thence to -Westminster in this order: - -First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of the Chamber. -136 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each of whom had two, most -richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Sergeant Porter. Sewers of the -Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery. Clerk of the Signet. -Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of the Council, of the Parliament, and -of the Crown. Chaplains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King's -Advocates and Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the Chancery. -Puisne Sergeants. King's Attorney and Solicitor. King's eldest Sergeant. -Secretaries of the French and Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers. Daily -Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the -body, 4. Masters of standing offices, being no Counsellors, viz, of the -Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, Armory, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. -Chamberlain of the Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord -Chief-Baron. Lord Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. -Lord Chief-Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. -Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the -noblest show of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight -Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the Jewels. Lords of the -Privy Council. Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. -Trumpets. Sergeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons. Two -Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds. Earls. Lord Chamberlain of -the Household. Two Heralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and -Norroy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons -representing the Dukes of Normandy and Acquitaine, viz, Sir Richard -Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastic habits of the time. -Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord Mayor of London. The Duke of York alone -(the rest by twos). Lord High Constable of England. Lord Great -Chamberlain of England. The sword borne by the Earl Marshal of England. -The KING, in royal robes and equipage. Afterward, followed equerries, -footmen, gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse, leading a horse -richly caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain -of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. The troop of Volunteers, with -many other officers and gentlemen. - -This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as embroidery, velvet, cloth -of gold and silver, and jewels, could make them and their prancing -horses, proceeded through the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung -with rich tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies; the London -militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with their banners -and loud music, ranked in their orders; the fountains running wine, bells -ringing, with speeches made at the several triumphal arches; at that of -the Temple Bar (near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by the -Bailiff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a speech. Thence, -with joyful acclamations, his Majesty passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at -night. - -The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westminster Abbey. -When his Majesty was entered, the Dean and Prebendaries brought all the -regalia, and delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the King, -who met them at the west door of the church, singing an anthem, to the -choir. Then, came the Peers, in their robes, and coronets in their hands, -till his Majesty was placed on a throne elevated before the altar. -Afterward, the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury being sick) -went to every side of the throne to present the King to the people, -asking if they would have him for their King, and do him homage; at this, -they shouted four times "God save King Charles II!" Then, an anthem was -sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, went up to the altar, and -he offered a pall and a pound of gold. Afterward, he sat down in another -chair during the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of -Worcester. - -After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to maintain the -religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The hymn _Véni S. Sp._ -followed, and then the Litany by two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of -Canterbury, present, but much indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your -hearts"; at which, the King rose up, and put off his robes and upper -garments, and was in a waistcoat so opened in divers places, that the -Archbishop might commodiously anoint him, first in the palms of his -hands, when an anthem was sung, and a prayer read; then, his breast and -between the shoulders, bending of both arms; and, lastly, on the crown of -the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anointing; this done, -the Dean closed and buttoned up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif -put on, and the cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a super-tunic -of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, spurs, and the -sword; a prayer being first said over it by the Archbishop on the altar, -before it was girt on by the Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, -etc. Then, the Archbishop placed the crown imperial on the altar, prayed -over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, at which all the Peers put on -their coronets. Anthems, and rare music, with lutes, viols, trumpets, -organs, and voices, were then heard, and the Archbishop put a ring on his -Majesty's finger. The King next offered his sword on the altar, which -being redeemed, was drawn, and borne before him. Then, the Archbishop -delivered him the sceptre, with the dove in one hand, and, in the other, -the sceptre with the globe. The King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounced -the blessing. His Majesty then ascending again his royal throne, while -_Te Deum_ was singing, all the Peers did their homage, by every one -touching his crown. The Archbishop, and the rest of the Bishops, first -kissing the King; who received the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet -with the crown imperial on his head, and accompanied with all the -nobility in the former order, he went on foot upon blue cloth, which was -spread and reached from the west door of the Abbey to Westminster stairs, -when he took water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall where was -extraordinary feasting. - -24th April, 1661. I presented his Majesty with his "Panegyric"[66] in the -Privy Chamber, which he was pleased to accept most graciously; I gave -copies to the Lord Chancellor, and most of the noblemen who came to me -for it. I dined at the Marquis of Ormond's where was a magnificent feast, -and many great persons. - - [Footnote 66: A poem which Evelyn had composed on his Majesty's - Coronation; the 23d of April, 1661, being St. George's day.] - -1st May, 1661. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, where was his Majesty -and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being now a -time of universal festivity and joy. - -2d May, 1661. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my title to -Sayes Court. - -3d May, 1661. I went to see the wonderful engine for weaving silk -stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxford scholar forty -years since; and I returned by Fromantil's, the famous clockmaker, to see -some pendules, Monsieur Zulichem being with us. - -This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert Murray, Sir -Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zulichem, and Bull (all of them of our Society, -and excellent mathematicians), to show his Majesty, who was present, -Saturn's annulus, as some thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with his -_balteus_ (as that learned gentleman had published), very near eclipsed -by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis; also, Jupiter and satellites, -through his Majesty's great telescope, drawing thirty-five feet; on which -were divers discourses. - -8th May, 1661. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown on, and -all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the Parliament now newly -chosen (the old one being dissolved); and, that evening, declared in -council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal. - -9th May, 1661. At Sir Robert Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor -of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of several mathematical -subjects. - -11th May, 1661. My wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna she had -copied in miniature from P. Oliver's painting, after Raphael, which she -wrought with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infinitely -pleased with it, and caused it to be placed in his cabinet among his best -paintings. - -13th May, 1661. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of -scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the University in Latin, -Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and extemporary verses, as -wonderfully astonished me in such youths, with such readiness and wit, -some of them not above twelve or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that -what they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain, or do not -improve more considerably when they come to be men, though many of them -do; and no less is to be blamed their odd pronouncing of Latin, so that -out of England none were able to understand, or endure it. The -examinants, or posers, were, Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge; -Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, Oxford; Dr. Pierson; Dr. Allestree, Dean -of Westminster, and any that would. - -14th May, 1661. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me concerning -several particulars relating to our Society, and the planet Saturn, etc., -as he sat at supper in the withdrawing-room to his bedchamber. - -16th May, 1661. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburg, who -continued his feast near nine whole hours, according to the custom of his -country, though there was no great excess of drinking, no man being -obliged to take more than he liked. - -22d May, 1661. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in -divers places in London. Oh, prodigious change! - -29th May, 1661. This was the first anniversary appointed by act of -Parliament to be observed as a day of general thanksgiving for the -miraculous restoration of his Majesty: our vicar preaching on Psalm -cxviii. 24, requiring us to be thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had -cause. - -4th June, 1661. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's surveyor, to take -an account of what grounds I challenged at Sayes Court. - -27th June, 1661. I saw the Portugal ambassador at dinner with his Majesty -in state, where was excellent music. - -2d July, 1661. I went to see the New Spring-Garden, at Lambeth, a -prettily contrived plantation. - -[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] - -19th July, 1661. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the water dock -at Deptford, in which our curator continued half an hour under water; it -was made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable. - -3d August, 1661. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's -household to visit me. - -9th August, 1661. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant and -_humilis_, which contracted with the least touch of the sun through a -burning glass, though it rises and opens only when it shines on it. - -I first saw the famous Queen Pine brought from Barbadoes, and presented -to his Majesty; but the first that were ever seen in England were those -sent to Cromwell four years since. - -I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excelled in clocks -and pendules, especially one that had innumerable motions, and played -nine or ten tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts: -which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. He had -also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice pictures, and -other curiosities. Thence, we went to that famous mountebank, Jo. -Punteus. - -Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his "Discourse of the -Vegetation of Plants"; and Mr. Henshaw, his "History of Saltpeter and -Gunpowder." I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary to -the King, which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic. - -I went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. Prujean, who showed me his -laboratory, his workhouse for turning, and other mechanics; also many -excellent pictures, especially the Magdalen of Caracci; and some -incomparable _paysages_ done in distemper; he played to me likewise on -the _polythore_, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, and -theorbo; by none known in England, nor described by any author, nor used, -but by this skillful and learned Doctor. - -15th August, 1661. I went to Tunbridge-Wells, my wife being there for the -benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greatly admired the -extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certain birch trees -among the rocks. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -13th September, 1661. I presented my "_Fumifugium_"[67] dedicated to his -Majesty, who was pleased that I should publish it by his special -commands, being much gratified with it. - - [Footnote 67: This pamphlet having become scarce, was in 1772 - reprinted in 4to, and is now incorporated in Evelyn's "Miscellaneous - Writings."] - -18th September, 1661. This day was read our petition to his Majesty for -his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a corporation, with -several privileges. - -An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn. - -1st October, 1661. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in one of his -yachts (or pleasure boats), vessels not known among us till the Dutch -East India Company presented that curious piece to the King; being very -excellent sailing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new -pleasure boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of York's; the -wager £100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost -it going, the wind being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There -were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty sometimes -steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat attended. I brake fast this -morning with the King at return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased -to take me and only four more, who were noblemen, with him; but dined in -his yacht, where we all ate together with his Majesty. In this passage he -was pleased to discourse to me about my book inveighing against the -nuisance of the smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by -removing those particulars I mentioned, it might be reformed; commanding -me to prepare a Bill against the next session of Parliament, being, as he -said, resolved to have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of -the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare in England -comparatively to other countries. He then commanded me to draw up the -matter of fact happening at the bloody encounter which then had newly -happened between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the Tower, -contending for precedency, at the reception of the Swedish Ambassador; -giving me orders to consult Sir William Compton, Master of the Ordnance, -to inform me of what he knew of it, and with his favorite, Sir Charles -Berkeley, captain of the Duke's life guard, then present with his troop -and three foot companies; with some other reflections and instructions, -to be prepared with a declaration to take off the reports which went -about of his Majesty's partiality in the affairs, and of his officers' -and spectators' rudeness while the conflict lasted. So I came home that -night, and went next morning to London, where from the officers of the -Tower, Sir William Compton, Sir Charles Berkeley, and others who were -attending at this meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having -collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindication of his -Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and standers-by. - -On Thursday his Majesty sent one of the pages of the back stairs for me -to wait on him with my papers, in his cabinet where was present only Sir -Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty what I -had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page, came in Mr. Secretary -Morice with a large paper, desiring to speak with his Majesty, who told -him he was now very busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some -other time; the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand was of -extraordinary importance. So the King rose up, and, commanding me to -stay, went aside to a corner of the room with the Secretary; after a -while, the Secretary being dispatched, his Majesty returning to me at -the table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of France;[68] this -he read and then bid me proceed from where I left off. This I did till I -had ended all the narrative, to his Majesty's great satisfaction; and, -after I had inserted one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty -instructed me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the -posthouse, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris (the Earl of St. -Alban's), and then at leisure to prepare him a copy, which he would -publish. This I did, and immediately sent my papers to the Secretary of -State, with his Majesty's express command of dispatching them that night -for France. Before I went out of the King's closet, he called me back to -show me some ivory statues, and other curiosities that I had not seen -before. - - [Footnote 68: Henrietta Maria.] - -3d October, 1661. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-room adjoining -the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me came to me from a great crowd of -noblemen standing near the fire, and asked me if I had done; and told me -he feared it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he had -that morning spoken with the French Ambassador, who it seems had -palliated the matter, and was very tame; and therefore directed me where -I should soften a period or two, before it was published (as afterward it -was). This night also he spoke to me to give him a sight of what was -sent, and to bring it to him in his bedchamber; which I did, and received -it again from him at dinner, next day. By Saturday, having finished it -with all his Majesty's notes, the King being gone abroad, I sent the -papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse and a great favorite), and -slipped home, being myself much indisposed and harassed with going about, -and sitting up to write. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th October, 1661. I went to London to visit my Lord of Bristol, having -been with Sir John Denham (his Majesty's surveyor) to consult with him -about the placing of his palace at Greenwich, which I would have had -built between the river and the Queen's house, so as a large square cut -should have let in the Thames like a bay; but Sir John was for setting it -on piles at the very brink of the water, which I did not assent to; and -so came away, knowing Sir John to be a better poet than architect, -though he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) to assist him. - -29th October, 1661. I saw the Lord Mayor pass in his water triumph to -Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature after twenty years. - -2d November, 1661. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord Arlington, to visit -me, and to acquaint me that his Majesty would do me the honor to come and -see my garden; but, it being then late, it was deferred. - -3d November, 1661. One Mr. Breton preached his probation sermon at our -parish church, and indeed made a most excellent discourse on John i. 29, -of God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him -to the patron. - -10th November, 1661. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr. Basire, -that great traveler, or rather French Apostle, who had been planting the -Church of England in divers parts of the Levant and Asia. He showed that -the Church of England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, -and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven; that England was the very land -of Goshen. - -11th November, 1661. I was so idle as to go to see a play called "Love -and Honor." Dined at Arundel House; and that evening discoursed with his -Majesty about shipping, in which he was exceedingly skillful. - -15th November, 1661. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me there -were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that in but one -county; but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they -were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs. - -16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of "Naudęus concerning -Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miserably false printed. - -17th November, 1661. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the "Florentine -Council," and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on -Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return and restoration of the Church and -King. - -20th November, 1661. At the Royal Society, Sir William Petty proposed -divers things for the improvement of shipping; a versatile keel that -should be on hinges and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead. - -24th November, 1661. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me -concerning bees, etc. - -26th November, 1661. I saw "Hamlet, Prince of Denmark" played; but now -the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesty's -being so long abroad. - -28th November, 1661. I dined at Chiffinch's house-warming, in St. James's -Park; he was his Majesty's closet-keeper, and had his new house full of -good pictures, etc. There dined with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape -Verd, who was sent out to negotiate his Majesty's match with the Infanta -of Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned. - -29th November, 1661. I dined at the Countess of Peterborough's and went -that evening to Parson's Green with my Lord Mordaunt, with whom I stayed -that night. - -1st December, 1661. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough, going now to -Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the match with -Portugal. - -3d December, 1661. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly, an -order was made and registered that I should receive their public thanks -for the honorable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society, in -my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of -Naudęus. Too great an honor for a trifle. - -4th December, 1661. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, -concerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed a whole ear -of barley, which worked out at her side. I told him of the KNIFE -SWALLOWED[69] and the pins. - - [Footnote 69: This refers to the Dutchman, _ante_, 28th August, - 1641; and to an extraordinary case contained in a "Miraculous Cure - of the Prussian Swallow Knife, etc., by Dan Lakin, P. C." quarto, - London, 1642, with a woodcut representing the object of the cure and - the size of the knife.] - -I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in the fleet to bring -over our new Queen. - -7th December, 1661. I dined at Arundel House, the day when the great -contest in Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk; -however, it was carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of -Sumptuary Laws, entitled "Tyrannus" [or "The Mode"]. - -14th December, 1661. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one. - -16th December, 1661. I saw a French comedy acted at Whitehall. - -20th December, 1661. The Bishop of Gloucester preached at the Abbey at -the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the Duke of Albemarle. -It was a decent solemnity. There was a silver miter, with episcopal -robes, borne by the herald before the hearse, which was followed by the -Duke his brother, and all the bishops, with divers noblemen. - -23d December, 1661. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar with -extraordinary skill before the Duke. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -1st January, 1661-62. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolery of -the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln's-Inn, where came the King, Duke, -etc. It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock -Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He had his Lord -Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Officers, gloriously -clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was -the young spark who maintained the pageantry. - -6th January, 1662. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty opened -the revels of that night by throwing the dice himself in the privy -chamber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year -before he won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away when -the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, and left them still at passage, -cards, etc. At other tables, both there and at the groom-porter's, -observing the wicked folly and monstrous excess of passion among some -losers; sorry am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess -should be countenanced in a Court, which ought to be an example of virtue -to the rest of the kingdom. - -9th January, 1662. I saw acted "The Third Part of the Siege of Rhodes." -In this acted the fair and famous comedian called Roxalana from the part -she performed; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the -Earl of Oxford's MISS (as at this time they began to call lewd women). It -was in recitative music. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -10th January, 1662. Being called into his Majesty's closet when Mr. -Cooper, the rare limner, was crayoning of the King's face and head, to -make the stamps for the new milled money now contriving, I had the honor -to hold the candle while it was doing, he choosing the night and -candlelight for the better finding out the shadows. During this, his -Majesty discoursed with me on several things relating to painting and -graving. - -11th January, 1662. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent -music performed by the ablest masters, both French and English, on -theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of -the Queen, purposely composed for her chapel. Afterward, my Lord Aubigny -(her Majesty's Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodging, and his -wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities; -especially a kind of artificial glass, or porcelain, adorned with -relievos of paste, hard and beautiful. Lord Aubigny (brother to the Duke -of Lennox) was a person of good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and -effeminacy. - -I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's attorney, a draft of an Act -against the nuisance of the smoke of London, to be reformed by removing -several trades which are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the -King and his people. It was to have been offered to the Parliament, as -his Majesty commanded. - -12th January, 1662. At St. James's chapel preached, or rather harangued, -the famous orator, Monsieur Morus, in French. There were present the -King, Duke, French Ambassador, Lord Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world -of Roman Catholics, drawn thither to hear this eloquent Protestant. - -15th January, 1662. There was a general fast through the whole nation, -and now celebrated in London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this -land. Great rain had fallen without any frost, or seasonable cold, not -only in England, but in Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here -near as warm as at midsummer in some years. - -This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at St. Margaret's. Dr. -Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached on Joshua vii. 12, showing how the -neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of -the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the Tower) was a -main cause of God's punishing a land. He brought in that of the -Gibeonites, as well as Achan and others, concluding with an eulogy of the -Parliament for their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and -vindicating the Church from sacrilege. - -16th January, 1662. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to -visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I returned, when he was -pleased to do me that honor of his own accord, and to stay some time -viewing such things as I had to entertain his curiosity. Afterward he -caused me to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house, and to -sit with him covered at the same table. There were his Highness, the Duke -of Ormond, and several Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds about a -project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which was laid aside -as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this, I accompanied the Duke to -an East India vessel that lay at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of -several curiosities. Among other spirituous drinks, as punch, etc., they -gave us Canary that had been carried to and brought from the Indies, -which was indeed incomparably good. I returned to London with his -Highness. This night was acted before his Majesty "The Widow," a lewd -play. - -18th January, 1662. I came home to be private a little, not at all -affecting the life and hurry of Court. - -24th January, 1662. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions of -building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolishing the old one; on -which I declared my thoughts. - -25th January, 1662. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that -corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford. - -3d February, 1662. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur Gorges' house. - -11th February, 1662. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York at -the Cockpit. The King was not at it. - -17th February, 1662. I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house at -Wimbledon, newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to help contrive the garden -after the modern. It is a delicious place for prospect and the thickets, -but the soil cold and weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sir Henry -Bennett. - -This night was buried in Westminster Abbey the Queen of Bohemia, after -all her sorrows and afflictions being come to die in the arms of her -nephew, the King; also this night and the next day fell such a storm of -hail, thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any man's -memory, especially the tempest of wind, being southwest, which subverted, -besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimneys (among others that -of my parlor at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and sea, that -several perished on both. Divers lamentable fires were also kindled at -this time; so exceedingly was God's hand against this ungrateful and -vicious nation and Court. - -20th February, 1662. I returned home to repair my house, miserably -shattered by the late tempest. - -24th March, 1662. I returned home with my whole family, which had been -most part of the winter, since October, at London, in lodgings near the -Abbey of Westminster. - -6th April, 1662. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we ordered that -the communion-table should be set (as usual) altar-wise, with a decent -rail in front, as before the Rebellion. - -17th April, 1662. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father was -executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seemed a man of parts. - -7th May, 1662. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly where were tried -several experiments in Mr. Boyle's VACUUM. A man thrusting in his arm, -upon exhaustion of the air, had his flesh immediately swelled so as the -blood was near bursting the veins: he drawing it out, we found it all -speckled. - -14th May, 1662. To London, being chosen one of the Commissioners for -reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and regulating -the hackney coaches in the city of London, taking my oath before my Lord -Chancellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's office, in Scotland -Yard, about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till the 16th, -when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made more passable -into the Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this -commission. - -25th May, 1662. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey -to Hampton Court, to see the Queen; who, having landed at Portsmouth, had -been married to the King a week before by the Bishop of London. - -30th May, 1662. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese ladies in -their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes, their complexions -olivader[70] and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Majesty in the same habit, -her foretop long and turned aside very strangely. She was yet of the -handsomest countenance of all the rest, and, though low of stature, -prettily shaped, languishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her -mouth by sticking a little too far out; for the rest, lovely enough. - - [Footnote 70: Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in - other accounts that Katharine of Braganza's Portuguese Ladies of - Honor, who came over with her, were uncommonly ill-favored, and - disagreeable in their appearance. See Faithorne's curious print of - the Queen in the costume here described.] - -31st May, 1662. I saw the Queen at dinner; the Judges came to compliment -her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of Ormond brought me to kiss her -hand. - -2d June, 1662. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their addresses to the -Queen, presenting her £1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, -and the Guardadamas, or mother of her maids,[71] and the old knight, a -lock of whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on by a -thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his Majesty from the -State of Venice; but it was not comparable for swiftness to our common -wherries, though managed by Venetians. - - [Footnote 71: The Maids of Honor had a mother at least as early as - the reign of Elizabeth. The office is supposed to have been - abolished about the period of the Revolution of 1688.] - -4th June, 1662. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon. - -8th June, 1662. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bedchamber. - -9th June, 1662. I heard the Queen's Portugal music, consisting of pipes, -harps, and very ill voices. - -[Sidenote: HAMPTON COURT] - -Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as capacious as any -Gothic architecture can have made it. There is an incomparable furniture -in it, especially hangings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also -many rare pictures, especially the Cęsarean Triumphs of Andrea Mantegna, -formerly the Duke of Mantua's; of the tapestries, I believe the world can -show nothing nobler of the kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. -The gallery of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, -elks, antelopes, etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery of silver on -crimson velvet, and cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of -Holland when his Majesty returned, and had formerly been given by them to -our King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her -again, was now presented to the King. The great looking-glass and toilet, -of beaten and massive gold, was given by the Queen-Mother. The Queen -brought over with her from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never -before been seen here. The great hall is a most magnificent room. The -chapel roof excellently fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visit the -wardrobe and tents, and other furniture of state. The park, formerly a -flat and naked piece of ground, now planted with sweet rows of lime -trees; and the canal for water now near perfected; also the air-park. In -the garden is a rich and noble fountain, with Sirens, statues, etc., cast -in copper, by Fanelli; but no plenty of water. The cradle-work of horn -beam in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very -observable. There is a parterre which they call Paradise, in which is a -pretty banqueting-house set over a cave, or cellar. All these gardens -might be exceedingly improved, as being too narrow for such a palace. - -10th June, 1662. I returned to London, and presented my "History of -Chalcography" (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society.[72] - - [Footnote 72: See Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings."] - -19 June, 1662. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, soon after he -had procured the Dukedom to be restored. This gentleman had now -compounded a debt of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much -obliged to that great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I -stayed a fortnight. - -2d July, 1662. We hunted and killed a buck in the park, Mr. Howard -inviting most of the gentlemen of the country near him. - -3d July, 1662. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard accompanied -me to see my son John, who had been much brought up among Mr. Howard's -children at Arundel House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the -Catholic religion, I was forced to take him home. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -8th July, 1662. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess of -Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary retinue. - -13th July, 1662. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, where I had -discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbadoes, concerning -divers particulars of that colony. - -28th July, 1662. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen-Mother, now -coming again for England, met with such ill weather as greatly endangered -him. I went to Greenwich, to wait on the Queen, now landed. - -30th July, 1662. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, -and particularly to inquire how the city had disposed of the revenues of -Gresham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no -better improved. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords -of the Council; but little was the progress we could make. - -31st July, 1662. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming buildings -and streets of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St. -James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Haymarket about -Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and -published for the better keeping the streets clean. - -1st August, 1662. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, -Philip,[73] now the Queen's Almoner (all brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, -still in Italy), came with a great train, and dined with me; Mr. H. -Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas, -for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime bred up in -their father's house. - - [Footnote 73: Since Cardinal at Rome. "Evelyn's Note."] - -4th August, 1662. Came to see me the old Countess of Devonshire, with -that excellent and worthy person, my Lord her son, from Roehampton. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -5th August, 1662. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about my -purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, now going Ambassador to -Portugal. - -13th August, 1662. Our Charter being now passed under the broad Seal, -constituting us a corporation under the name of the Royal Society for the -improvement of natural knowledge by experiment, was this day read and was -all that was done this afternoon, being very large. - -14th August, 1662. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord -Mayor and others of the Mercers' Company being summoned, to answer some -complaints of the Professors, grounded on a clause in the will of Sir -Thomas Gresham, the founder. - -This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St. Alban's and many -great ladies and persons, was pleased to honor my poor villa with her -presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and -staid till very late in the evening. - -15th August, 1662. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Clarendon) and -his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were -likewise collationed with us, and were very merry. They had all been our -old acquaintance in exile, and indeed this great person had ever been my -friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too. - -17th August, 1662. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer Book, reformed -and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be read, and the -solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the incumbents of England -under penalty of losing their livings; our vicar read it this morning. - -20th August, 1662. There were strong guards in the city this day, -apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian ministers not -conforming. I dined with the Vice-Chamberlain, and then went to see the -Queen-Mother, who was pleased to give me many thanks for the -entertainment she received at my house, when she recounted to me many -observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. - -21st August, 1662. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council of -the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty's original grant to be -of this Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and -statutes conducible to its establishment and progress, for which we now -set apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord -Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his -Majesty, our founder, nominated our first President. The King gave us the -arms of England to be borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace -of silver gilt, of the same fashion and size as those carried before his -Majesty, to be borne before our president on meeting days. It was brought -by Sir Gilbert Talbot, master of his Majesty's jewel house. - -22d August, 1662. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert Murray, -and then went to consult about a newly modeled ship at Lambeth, the -intention being to reduce that art to as certain a method as any other -part of architecture. - -23d August, 1662. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that -ever floated on the Thames, considering the innumerable boats and -vessels, dressed and adorned with all imaginable pomp, but, above all, -the thrones, arches, pageants, and other representations, stately barges -of the Lord Mayor and companies, with various inventions, music, and -peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore, going to meet and -conduct the new Queen from Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first time -of her coming to town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the Venetian -Bucentoras, etc., on the Ascension, when they go to espouse the Adriatic. -His Majesty and the Queen came in an antique-shaped open vessel, covered -with a state, or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, -supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with flowers, festoons -and garlands. I was in our newly built vessel, sailing among them. - -29th August, 1662. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society went in a -body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty's royal grace in granting -our Charter, and vouchsafing to be himself our founder; when the -President made an eloquent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious -reply and we all kissed his hand. Next day we went in like manner with -our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had much promoted our patent: he -received us with extraordinary favor. In the evening I went to the -Queen-Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. - -1st September, 1662. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went to Durdans, -where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince -Edward, and abundance of noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my -brother of Woodcot, my sister having been delivered of a son a little -before, but who had now been two days dead. - -4th September, 1662. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor and -Aldermen being again summoned, and the improvements of Sir Thomas -Gresham's estate examined. There were present the Bishop of London, the -Lord Chief Justice, and the King's attorney. - -6th September, 1662. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter -King-at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, master of the Mint, and several others. - -17th September, 1662. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society should -be a field argent, with a canton of the arms of England; the supporters -two talbots argent; crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like -arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "_Nullius in verbā_." It was -presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter -King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their office for it. - -20th September, 1662. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my own -concerns, and afterward accompanied him to Monsieur Febure his chemist -(and who had formerly been my master in Paris), to see his accurate -preparation for the composing Sir Walter Raleigh's rare cordial: he made -a learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each ingredient. - -27th September, 1662. Came to visit me Sir George Saville, grandson to -the learned Sir Henry Saville, who published St. Chrysostom. Sir George -was a witty gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. - -3d October, 1662. I was invited to the College of Physicians, where Dr. -Meret, a learned man and library-keeper, showed me the library, theater -for anatomy, and divers natural curiosities; the statue and epigram under -it of that renowned physician, Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the circulation -of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir William Paddy's and other -pictures of men famous in their faculty. - -Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotchman, who had lived long at Rome, and was -esteemed a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guildhall are of -his hand, and so are some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his -Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astręa, the St. Catherine, and a -chimney-piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my opinion, -is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three -dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch highlander -in his plaid. It is in his Majesty's dining room at Windsor. He had at -his house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of -Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and, above all, -those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates and medals, especially a -Scipio, and a Cęsar's head of gold. - -15th October, 1662. I this day delivered my "Discourse concerning Forest -Trees" to the Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the -Commissioners of his Majesty's Navy, being the first book that was -printed by order of the Society, and by their printer, since it was a -corporation. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -16th October, 1662. I saw "_Volpone_" acted at Court before their -Majesties. - -21st October, 1662. To the Queen-Mother's Court, where her Majesty -related to us divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and -wars in England. - -28th October, 1662. To Court in the evening where the Queen-Mother, the -Queen-Consort, and his Majesty being advertised of some disturbance, -forbore to go to the Lord Mayor's show and feast appointed next day, the -new Queen not having yet seen that triumph. - -29th October, 1662. Was my Lord Mayor's show, with a number of sumptuous -pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in a house in Cheapside -against the place prepared for their Majesties. The Prince and heir of -Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also the maids of honor. -I went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with Dr. Basiers, -one of his Majesty's chaplains, the great traveler, who showed me the -syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and -Asian churches to our confession. - -4th November, 1662. I was invited to the wedding of the daughter of Sir -George Carteret (The Treasurer of the Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), -married to Sir Nicholas Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of -London, in the Savoy chapel; after which was an extraordinary feast. - -5th November, 1662. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend the -Statutes, and dined together; afterward meeting at Gresham College, where -was a discourse suggested by me, concerning planting his Majesty's Forest -of Dean with oak, now so much exhausted of the choicest ship timber in -the world. - -20th November, 1662. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard; -afterward saw "The Young Admiral" acted before the King. - -21st November, 1662. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby giving -me great thanks for my "Sylva." - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -27th November, 1662. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian -Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be received with much state, the -Emperor not only having been kind to his Majesty in his distress, but -banishing all commerce with our nation during the Rebellion. - -First, the city companies and trained bands were all in their stations: -his Majesty's army and guards in great order. His Excellency came in a -very rich coach, with some of his chief attendants; many of the rest on -horseback, clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich furs, -caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks, furs, teeth, bows, -etc. It was a very magnificent show. - -I dined with the Master of the Mint, where was old Sir Ralph Freeman;[74] -passing my evening at the Queen-Mother's Court; at night, saw acted "The -Committee," a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic, Lacy, -acted the Irish footman to admiration. - - [Footnote 74: Of Betchworth, in Surrey.] - -30th November, 1662. St. Andrew's day. Invited by the Dean of Westminster -to his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of -Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached in the Abbey Church; then followed the -consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, -etc. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent dinners -that in my life I ever saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here -were the judges, nobility, clergy, and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop -being universally beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was -author of those Characters which go under the name of Blount. He -translated his late Majesty's "Icon" into Latin, was Clerk of his Closet, -Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and yet a most humble, meek, and cheerful -man, an excellent scholar, and rare preacher. I had the honor to be loved -by him. He married me at Paris, during his Majesty's and the Church's -exile. When I took leave of him, he brought me to the cloisters in his -episcopal habit. I then went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that -evening. - -1st December, 1662. Having seen the strange and wonderful dexterity of -the sliders on the new canal in St. James's Park, performed before their -Majesties by divers gentlemen and others with skates, after the manner of -the Hollanders, with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly they stop in -full career upon the ice; I went home by water, but not without exceeding -difficulty, the Thames being frozen, great flakes of ice encompassing our -boat. - -17th December, 1662, I saw acted before the King "The Law against -Lovers."[75] - - [Footnote 75: By Sir William Davenant, a hotch-potch out of "Measure - for Measure" and "Much Ado about Nothing."] - -21st December, 1662. One of his Majesty's chaplains preached; after -which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind music accompanying -the organ, was introduced a concert of twenty-four violins between every -pause, after the French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, -or playhouse, than a church. This was the first time of change, and now -we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ; that instrument -quite left off in which the English were so skillful. I dined at Mr. -Povey's, where I talked with Cromer, a great musician. - -23d December, 1662. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the comedians -con and repeat his new comedy, "The Adventures of Five Hours," a play -whose plot was taken out of the famous Spanish poet, Calderon. - -27th December, 1662. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. - -29th December, 1662. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador, which -was with extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in -vests of several colors, with buskins, after the Eastern manner! their -caps of fur; tunics, richly embroidered with gold and pearls, made a -glorious show. The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting -House, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the Ambassador in a grave -march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson taffeta -scarf before his forehead. The Ambassador then delivered it with a -profound reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of State: it -was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the presents, borne -by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large pieces lined -with sable, black fox, and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of -gold and velvet; hawks, such as they said never came the like; horses -said to be Persian; bows and arrows, etc. These borne by so long a train -rendered it very extraordinary. Wind music played all the while in the -galleries above. This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master -of the ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet, -which cost £200, as I was assured. - -7th January, 1663. At night I saw the ball, in which his Majesty danced -with several great ladies. - -8th January, 1663. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke's, comedy -acted at the Duke's theater, which took so universally, that it was acted -for some weeks every day, and it was believed it would be worth to the -comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff -and formal. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -10th January, 1663. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King, the -Duke, and ladies, in great pomp. - -21st January, 1663. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, of the Household, Sir -Charles Berkeley's, where were the Earl of Oxford, Lord Bellassis, Lord -Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, -and others. - -5th February, 1663. I saw "The Wild Gallant," a comedy;[76] and was at -the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queen, etc., danced. - - [Footnote 76: By Dryden. It was unsuccessful on the first - representation, but was subsequently altered to the form in which it - now appears.] - -6th February, 1663. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir John Robinson, -Lieutenant of the Tower. - -15th February, 1663. This night some villains broke into my house and -study below, and robbed me to the value of £60 in plate, money and -goods:--this being the third time I have been thus plundered. - -26th March, 1663. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a great -case pleaded by his Majesty's counsel; he having built a wall over a -water course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for -the plaintiff.[77] - - [Footnote 77: That is against the King.] - -30th April, 1663. Came his Majesty to honor my poor villa with his -presence, viewing the gardens, and even every room of the house, and was -pleased to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of -Richmond, Earl of St. Alban's, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of -quality. - -14th May, 1663. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to Barnes, -to visit my excellent and ingenious friend, Abraham Cowley. - -17th May, 1663. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I -had been kind, and assisted in his exile; but which he little remembered -in his greatness. - -29th May, 1663. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon at St. -Margaret's, before the House of Commons. - -30th May, 1663. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes Court from the -Crown, for the finishing of which I had been obliged to make such -frequent journeys to London. I returned this evening, having seen the -Russian Ambassador take leave of their Majesties with great solemnity. - -2d July, 1663. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay that night at -Arundel House. - -4th July, 1663. I saw his Majesty's Guards, being of horse and foot -4,000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle, in extraordinary -equipage and gallantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran -soldiers, excellently clad, mounted, and ordered, drawn up in battalia -before their Majesties in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland -trailed a pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot company, commanded -by the Lord Wentworth, his son; a worthy spectacle and example, being -both of them old and valiant soldiers. This was to show the French -Ambassador, Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of coaches, -etc., in the park. - -7th July, 1663. Dined at the Comptroller's; after dinner we met at the -Commission about the streets, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to -make up our accounts to pass the Exchequer. - -16th July, 1663. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. - -Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his daughter, -Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of Scott's Hall, in Kent. This gentleman -was thought to be the son of Prince Rupert. - -2d August, 1663. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and -Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately married son-in-law's, Sir Thomas -Scott, to Scott's Hall. We took barge as far as Gravesend, and thence by -post to Rochester, whence in coach and six horses to Scott's Hall; a -right noble seat, uniformly built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in -a park well stored, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by -the young knight, and in his pretty chapel heard an excellent sermon by -his chaplain. In the afternoon, preached the learned Sir Norton -Knatchbull (who has a noble seat hard by, and a plantation of stately fir -trees). In the churchyard of the parish church I measured an overgrown -yew tree, that was eighteen of my paces in compass, out of some branches -of which, torn off by the winds, were sawed divers goodly planks. - -10th August, 1663. We returned by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise -in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person, and learned critic, -especially in Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's -Royal Navy, and dined at Commissioner Pett's,[78] master-builder there, -who showed me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to -his art. He is esteemed for the most skillful shipbuilder in the world. -He hath a pretty garden and banqueting house, pots, statues, cypresses, -resembling some villas about Rome. After a great feast we rode post to -Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by barge home that -night. - - [Footnote 78: A monument to him in Deptford Church bears a most - pompous inscription: "_Qui fuit patrię decus, patrię suę magnum - munimentum_;" to the effect that he had not only restored our naval - affairs, but he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy - which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful - and safe: he was to be esteemed, indeed, by this invention, the Noah - of his age, which, like another Ark, had snatched from shipwreck our - rights and our dominion of the seas.] - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -18th August, 1663. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where I had -discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of -Winchester, who enjoined me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen -College, Oxford, about a letter sent him by Dr. Goffe, a Romish -Oratorian, concerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book. - -20th August, 1663. I dined at the Comptroller's [of the Household] with -the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham; it was said it should be the last -of the public diets, or tables, at Court, it being determined to put down -the old hospitality, at which was great murmuring, considering his -Majesty's vast revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went to sit -in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the -Tower; in which some small progress was made. - -27th August, 1663. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, Secretary to my Lord -Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other private matters relating -to the revenue. Thence, to the Commissioners of the Mint, particularly -about coinage, and bringing his Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten -shillings for every pound weight of gold. - -31st August, 1663. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon, -Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremony performed at -Lambeth. First, went his Grace's mace bearer, steward, treasurer, -comptroller, all in their gowns, and with white staves; next, the bishops -in their habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches, Dr. -Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, Judge of the -Prerogative Court, with divers advocates in scarlet. After divine service -in the chapel, performed with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr. -Stradling (his Grace's chaplains) said prayers. The Archbishop in a -private room looking into the chapel, the bishops, who were -commissioners, went up to a table placed before the altar, and sat round -it in chairs. Then Dr. Chaworth presented the commission under the broad -seal to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. After -which, the Vicar-General went to the vestry, and brought his Grace into -the chapel, his other officers marching before. He being presented to the -Commissioners, was seated in a great armchair at one end of the table, -when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of Winchester, and -subscribed by all the bishops, and proclamation was three times made at -the chapel door, which was then set open for any to enter, and give their -exceptions; if any they had. This done, we all went to dinner in the -great hall to a mighty feast. There were present all the nobility in -town, the Lord Mayor of London, Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, etc. My Lord -Archbishop did in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to visit -my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went over to London. - -10th September, 1663. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the Navy, where, -sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about books and -authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. - -24th October, 1663. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my son's preceptor: -this gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's -"_Defensio_"; but was not at all infected with his principles, though -brought up by him. - -5th November, 1663. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's chaplain, preached at -Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse concerning obedience to -magistrates, against the pontificians and sectaries. I afterward dined at -Sir Philip Warwick's, where was much company. - -6th November, 1663. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone, off -from being Sheriff of Surrey. - -30th November, 1663. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the -choice of new officers, according to the tenor of our patent and -institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow -wore a St. Andrew's cross of ribbon on the crown of his hat. After the -election we dined together, his Majesty sending us venison. - -16th December, 1663. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at -the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, having three -locks, and in it £100 as a gift. - -18th December, 1663. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty's bedchamber -at Whitehall. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d January, 1663-64. To Barn Elms, to see Abraham Cowley after his -sickness; and returned that evening to London. - -4th February, 1664. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's; thence, to Court, -where I had discourse with the King about an invention of glass-grenades, -and several other subjects. - -5th February, 1664. I saw "The Indian Queen" acted, a tragedy well -written,[79] so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had never been -seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. - - [Footnote 79: By Sir Robert Howard and Dryden.] - -16th February, 1664. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and next day -to his Majesty, to whom it was dedicated; also to the Lord Treasurer and -the Lord Chancellor. - -24th February, 1664. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir Samuel -Tuke came to visit me. We went on board Sir William Petty's -double-bottomed vessel, and so to London. - -26th February, 1664. Dined with my Lord Chancellor; and thence to Court, -where I had great thanks for my "Sylva," and long discourse with the King -of divers particulars. - -2d March, 1664. Went to London to distribute some of my books among -friends. - -4th March, 1664. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his -Majesty's great favorite, and Secretary of Scotland; the Earl of Teviot; -my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of the Royal Society; Dr. Wilkins, -Dean of Ripon; Sir Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society. - -This spring I planted the Home field and West field about Sayes Court -with elms, being the same year that the elms were planted by his Majesty -in Greenwich Park. - -9th March, 1664. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about -regulating the Mint; and now it was that the fine new-milled coin, both -of white money and guineas, was established. - -26th March, 1664. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard, now a -month old, yet without any sickness of danger perceivably, being to all -appearance a most likely child; we suspected much the nurse had overlain -him; to our extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one: but God's -will be done. - -29th March, 1664. After evening prayers, was my child buried near the -rest of his brothers--my very dear children. - -27th April, 1664. Saw a facetious comedy, called "Love in a Tub"; and -supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett's. - -3d May, 1664. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his Lady, to visit -us. - -5th May, 1664. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on the water, -in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had a great banquet, returning -late. The occasion was, Sir Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister -to the Secretary of State. - -6th May, 1664. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter's collection of rare -shells, etc. - -8th June, 1664. To our Society, to which his Majesty had sent that -wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dangerous hole in the keel of a -ship in the India sea, which, being broken off with the violence of the -fish, and left in the timber, preserved it from foundering. - -9th June, 1664. Sir Samuel Tuke[80] being this morning married to a lady, -kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the Queen's Lord Almoner, L. -Aubigny in St. James's chapel, solemnized his wedding night at my house -with much company. - - [Footnote 80: A Roman Catholic.] - -22d June, 1664. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collection of -rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to their Order at -Paris, as a present to be reserved in their repository, but brought to -London by the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seen. -The chief things were, rhinoceros's horns; glorious vests, wrought and -embroidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colors, that for -splendor and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approaches it; a -girdle studded with agates and rubies of great value and size; knives, of -so keen an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the metal of our -color, but more pale and livid; fans, like those our ladies use, but much -larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with Chinese -characters; a sort of paper very broad, thin, and fine, like abortive -parchment, and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceedingly -glorious and pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which my -Lord Verulam describes in his "_Nova Atlantis_"; several other sorts of -paper, some written, others printed; prints of landscapes, their idols, -saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to -which they paid devotion; pictures of men and countries, rarely painted -on a sort of gummed calico, transparent as glass; flowers, trees, beasts, -birds, etc., excellently wrought in a kind of sleeve silk, very natural; -divers drugs that our druggists and physicians could make nothing of, -especially one which the Jesuit called _Lac Tigridis_: it looked like a -fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet was a concretion, or coagulation, -of some other matter; several book MSS.; a grammar of the language -written in Spanish; with innumerable other rarities. - -1st July, 1664. Went to see Mr. Povey's elegant house in Lincoln's-Inn -Fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is -indeed excellent, with the vases in imitation of porphyry, and fountains; -the inlaying of his closet; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of -his wine bottles. - -7th July, 1664. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slingsby's -lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. - -14th July, 1664. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, now going -to Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley; thence to Eltham, to see -Sir John Shaw's new house, now building; the place is pleasant, if not -too wet, but the house not well contrived; especially the roof and rooms -too low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should be; the -orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large plantation about it. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th July, 1664. To London, to see the event of the lottery which his -Majesty had permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the -Banqueting House, at Whitehall; I gaining only a trifle, as well as did -the King, Queen-Consort, and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots; which -was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who -was, in truth, a mere shark. - -21st July, 1664. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton House, -where his Lordship used me with singular humanity. I went in the -afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to -London. - -28th July, 1664. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichen, Secretary to the -Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare lutinist, with Monsieur -Oudart. - -3d August, 1664. To London; a concert of excellent musicians, especially -one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who invented a mathematical way of -composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but -without much harmony. - -8th August, 1664. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of Lady -Cotton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. - -9th August, 1664. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visit and -comfort my disconsolate brother; and on the 13th saw my friend, Mr. -Charles Howard, at Dipden, near Dorking. - -16th August, 1664. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charlton; -which he purchased of my excellent friend, Sir Henry Newton, now nobly -furnished. - -22d August, 1664. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the funeral -of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitory there, she -being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic discourse, -concluding with an eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It -was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I came back next -day with my wife to London. - -2d September, 1664. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de Zuylichen, Sir -Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the day -with us. - -5th October, 1664. To our Society. There was brought a newly-invented -instrument of music, being a harpsichord with gut-strings, sounding like -a concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of -parchment that rubbed horizontally against the strings. - -6th October, 1664. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. -Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physicians; after which -I was invited by Dr. Alston, the President, to a magnificent feast. - -7th October, 1664. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters -of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholomew's; passing the evening at -Whitehall, with the Queen, etc. - -8th October, 1664. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in -Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as -he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius, the Encyclopedist. - -15th October, 1664. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, where was the Duke of -Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester. After dinner, my Lord -Chancellor and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace -(for he now lived at Worcester-House in the Strand), building at the -upper end of St. James's street, and to project the garden. In the -evening, I presented him with my book on Architecture,[81] as before I -had done to his Majesty and the Queen-Mother. His lordship caused me to -stay with him in his bedchamber, discoursing of several matters very -late, even till he was going into his bed. - - [Footnote 81: "Parallel between Ancient and Modern Architecture, - originally written in French, by Roland Freart, Sieur de Chambray," - and translated by Evelyn. See his "Miscellaneous Writings."] - -17th October, 1664. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury, to Cornbury, -in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and bear him -company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with six horses; dined at -Uxbridge, lay at Wycombe. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -18th October, 1664. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where we beheld -the destruction of that royal seat and park by the late rebels, and -arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house lately built by the Earl of -Denbigh, in the middle of a sweet park, walled with a dry wall. The house -is of excellent freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that is fine, -but never sweats, or casts any damp); it is of ample dimensions, has -goodly cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its close laying. We -designed a handsome chapel that was yet wanting: as Mr. May had the -stables, which indeed are very fair, having set out the walks in the -parks and gardens. The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the ponds very -convenient; the park well stored. - -20th October, 1664. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and -artificial grots and fountains, called Bushell's Wells, at Enstone. This -Bushell had been Secretary to my Lord Verulam. It is an extraordinary -solitude. There he had two mummies; a grot where he lay in a hammock, -like an Indian. Hence, we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of the Lees, -now Sir Henry Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty -bowling-green. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This gentleman's -mother was Countess of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir Walter St. -John. There were some pictures of their ancestors, not ill painted; the -great-grandfather had been Knight of the Garter; there was a picture of a -Pope, and our Savior's head. So we returned to Cornbury. - -24th October, 1664. We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrill's at Shotover. This -gentleman married the daughter and heir of Dr. James Usher, Archbishop of -Armagh, that learned prelate. There is here in the grove a fountain of -the coldest water I ever felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and -other timber is very commendable. We went in the evening to Oxford, lay -at Dr. Hyde's, principal of Magdalen-Hall (related to the Lord -Chancellor), brother to the Lord Chief Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, -who lost his head for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two -days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, the -learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's, and several heads of houses, came -to visit Lord Cornbury (his father being now Chancellor of the -University), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visit Mr. -Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Christopher Wren, -in the tower of the schools, with an inverted tube, or telescope, -observing the discus of the sun for the passing of Mercury that day -before it; but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared; so we -went to see the rarities in the library, where the keepers showed me my -name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medals, and -pictures of the muscular parts of man's body. Thence, to the new theater, -now building at an exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of -Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future, till now being -in St. Mary's Church. The foundation had been newly laid, and the whole -designed by that incomparable genius my worthy friend, Dr. Christopher -Wren, who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in some -particulars. Thence, to see the picture on the wall over the altar of All -Souls, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather in imitation -of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill designed by -the hand of one Fuller; yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems too -full of nakeds for a chapel. - -Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen chapel, which is on -blue cloth in _chiar oscuro_, by one Greenborow, being a _Coena -Domini_, and a "Last Judgment" on the wall by Fuller, as in the other, -but somewhat varied. - -Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were two large locust trees, -and as many platani (plane trees), and some rare plants under the culture -of old Bobart. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -26th October, 1664. We came back to Beaconsfield; next day to London, -where we dined at the Lord Chancellor's, with my Lord Bellasis. - -27th October, 1664. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall, his -Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of -"Architecture," and again for my "_Sylva_" saying they were the best -designed and useful for the matter and subject, the best printed and -designed (meaning the _taille-douces_ of the Parallel of Architecture) -that he had seen. He then caused me to follow him alone to one of the -windows, and asked me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a -crayon; I presented him with both, and then laying it on the -window-stool, he with his own hands designed to me the plot for the -future building of Whitehall, together with the rooms of state, and other -particulars. After this, he talked with me of several matters, asking my -advice, in which I find his Majesty had an extraordinary talent becoming -a magnificent prince. - -The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to take -care of such sick and wounded and prisoners of war, as might be expected -upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war being already -declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased to nominate me -to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz, Sir William -Doily, Knt. and Bart., Sir Thomas Clifford, and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; -with a salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our -care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a -particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power -to constitute officers, physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to -dispose of half of the hospitals through England. After the Council, we -kissed his Majesty's hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor Finch -plead most elegantly for the merchants trading to the Canaries, praying -for a new Charter. - -29th October, 1664. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and land of -the Lord Mayor. I dined at Guildhall at the upper table, placed next to -Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and -the Duke of Buckingham, who sat between Monsieur Comminges, the French -Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl of -Manchester, Lord Chamberlain, and the rest of the great officers of -state. My Lord Mayor came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden -goblet his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to -the Ambassador; we returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and -drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and -rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample -hall. The feast was said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and -came home late. - -31st October, 1664. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I returned -thanks to Almighty God, begging his merciful protection for the year to -come. - -2d November, 1664. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came across the gallery -in Whitehall to give me thanks for my book of "Architecture," which I had -presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve. - -16th November, 1664. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers, and -appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the good Samaritan, with -this motto, "_Fac similiter_." Painters' Hall was lent us to meet in. In -the great room were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been -given to the Company by several of the wardens and masters of the -Company. - -23d November, 1664. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full -assembly of the Royal Society. - -24th November, 1664. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the -conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was -the heads of the speech he made at the reconvention of the Parliament, -which now began. - -2d December, 1664. We delivered the Privy Council's letters to the -Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, that a moiety of the -house should be reserved for such sick and wounded as should from time to -time be sent from the fleet during the war. This being delivered at their -Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, -invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers' Hall. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -20th December, 1664. To London, our last sitting, taking order for our -personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain Cocke's (our -treasurer), with that most ingenious gentleman, Matthew Wren, son to the -Bishop of Ely, and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. - -22d December, 1664. I went to the launching of a new ship of two bottoms, -invented by Sir William Petty, on which were various opinions; his -Majesty being present, gave her the name of the "Experiment": so I -returned home, where I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with -me. - -This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at Sayes Court. It was -now exceedingly cold, and a hard, long, frosty season, and the comet was -very visible. - -28th December, 1664. Some of my poor neighbors dined with me, and others -of my tenants, according to my annual custom. - -31st December, 1664. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His -mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of the Holy -Sacrament, which I partook of the next day, after hearing our minister on -the 4th of Galatians, verses 4, 5, of the mystery of our Blessed Savior's -Incarnation. - - - - -Transcriber's Note - - -Page headers in the original text indicated the location of the author. -I have converted these to sidenotes. When the location did not change -over several pages, only one sidenote was used. - -"[)u]" is used in the text to represent "u" with a breve above it. - -"^" is used in the text to represent superscripts. - -"[~C~]" is used to represent a backwards "C" - -Footnotes have been moved below the paragraph to which they relate. - -Inconsistencies have been retained in spelling, hyphenation, -punctuation, and grammar, except where indicated in the list -below: - - - Comma removed after "King" on Page xxii - - Comma removed after "ARTIBUS" and word was moved to the start of - following line on Page 17 - - "extrordinary" changed to "extraordinary" on Page 22 - - Period changed to comma after "considerable" on Page 50 - - Colon changed to semicolon after "good" on Page 57 - - "Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno" on Page 60 - - "ceörcuit" changed to "coėrcuit" on Page 60 - - Period added after "capital" on Page 66 - - Comma changed to a period added after "head" on Page 68 - - Comma added after "churches" on Page 70 - - Period added after "Paris" on Page 73 - - Period changed to a colon after after "vetustiss" on Page 98 - - "qu" changed to "qui" on Page 99 - - "suffiently" changed to "sufficiently" on Page 100 - - "theorboes" changed to "theorbos" on Page 107 - - "hicerigi" changed to "hic erigi" on Page 112 - - "d Arpino" changed to "d'Arpino" on Page 119 - - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 123 - - "Sextns" changed to "Sextus" on Page 124 - - "S.P. Q.R.D.D." changed to "S.P.Q.R.D.D." on Page 124 - - "tune" changed to "tunc" on Page 124 - - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 132 - - "viz." changed to "viz" on Page 138 - - Period added after "grosse" on Page 138 - - Semicolon added after "Cybel" on Page 140 - - "Scipio'o" changed to "Scipio's" on Page 140 - - "forman" changed to "formam" on Page 144 - - Quote added before "Inclyta" on Page 146 - - "cinceres" changed to "cineres" on Page 153 - - Colon changed to a semicolon after "brass" on Page 161 - - Round bracket added after "excepted" on Page 164 - - "Lanframe" changed to "Lanfranc" on Page 166 - - Comma changed to a period after "VIII" on Page 167 - - "sinking" changed to "stinking" on Page 178 - - "suphurous" changed to "sulphurous" on Page 178 - - Comma added after "Pegasus" on Page 178 - - "gread" changed to "great" on Page 179 - - Colon changed to semicolon after "mummy" on Page 182 - - Period changed to comma after "ordnance" on Page 187 - - Comma changed to a semicolon after "marble" on Page 200 - - Period added after "October" on Page 212 - - "thought" changed to "taught" on Page 213 - - Extra "to" removed on Page 214 - - Extra "of" removed on Page 217 - - "Poti" changed to "Pot."-- on Page 223 - - Comma added after "August" on Page 243 - - "father s" changed to "father's" on Page 251 - - "Cecilia's" changed to "Cecilia's" on Page 259 - - "Musician's" changed to "Musicians" on Page 259 - - Extra "the" removed on Page 264 - - "captan" changed to "captain" on Page 265 - - "taffet" changed to "taffeta" on Page 265 - - "Febur's" changed to "Febure's" on Page 269 - - "Cromwells" changed to "Cromwell's" on Page 274 - - "Condč's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275 - - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - - Duplicate "the" removed on Page 284 - - Comma changed to a period after "Mr" on Page 284 - - "delighful" changed to "delightful" on Page 285 - - "Pophams" changed to "Popham's" on Page 285 - - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 - - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 - - Comma added after "music" on Page 287 - - "MSS." changed to "MS." on Page 288 - - "meantine" changed to "meantime" on Page 290 - - Period added after "prospect" on Page 296 - - Comma added after "December" on Page 302 - - Comma changed to a period after "it" on Page 308 - - "indiffierently" changed to "indifferently" on Page 314 - - "January" changed to "February" on Page 314 - - "January" changed to "February" on Page 315 - - "deperate" changed to "desperate" on Page 317 - - Period added after "1657" on Page 317 - - Period added after "country" on Page 317 - - "commisioners" changed to "commissioners" on Page 326 - - Comma added after "November" on Page 328 - - "1650" changed to "1660" on Page 336 - - Period added after "Crisp" on Page 356 - - Comma changed to a period after "modern" on Page 356 - - Period added after "St" on Page 360 - - Extra "the" removed on Page 362 - - Comma changed to a period after "St" on Page 364 - - Period added after "Sylva" on Page 365 - - "October" changed to "November" on Page 366 - - Period added after "Worcester" on Page 366 - - Period added after "St" on Page 366 - - Comma changed to a period after "1664" on Page 376 - - "againt" changed to "against" on Page 378 - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by -John Evelyn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - -***** This file should be named 41218-8.txt or 41218-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/1/41218/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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