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diff --git a/40274-8.txt b/40274-0.txt index 24e1a50..5244c5d 100644 --- a/40274-8.txt +++ b/40274-0.txt @@ -1,36 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Maps of Old London - -Author: Anonymous - -Editor: Geraldine Edith Mitton - -Release Date: July 19, 2012 [EBook #40274] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40274 *** MAPS @@ -180,7 +148,7 @@ omitted to indicate the decaying heads on poles, a succession of which adorned the bridge throughout the centuries (see _The Thames_ in above series). -On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see _Mediæval London_, +On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see _Mediæval London_, vol. ii., p. 297). It has as neighbours Winchester and Rochester Houses, the residences of the respective Bishops of those sees; while the proud cupolas of Suffolk House--built _circa_ 1516, and later used as the @@ -199,7 +167,7 @@ once claimed by them to the exclusion of all else--the Abbey of Bermondsey, the Tower of London, and Greenwich Palace. In Bermondsey two Queens died--Katherine, consort of Henry V., and Elizabeth, consort of Edward IV. Only a year or two before this map was made had the grand old Abbey been -surrendered to the King (for a full account see _Mediæval London_, vol. +surrendered to the King (for a full account see _Mediæval London_, vol. ii., p. 288). The Tower, taken as a whole, is very much as we still know it; it is one of @@ -257,7 +225,7 @@ engraved on wood, are both of the same issue; one is at the Pepysian Library, Magdalen College, Oxford, and the other at the Guildhall. Edward J. Francis made a careful reproduction of that at the Guildhall in 1874, and it is from that our present plate is taken. It is, of course, reduced, -for the original is 6 feet and ½ inch long, by 2 feet 4½ inches wide. The +for the original is 6 feet and ½ inch long, by 2 feet 4½ inches wide. The notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, F.S.A., one of the leading authorities on the question. He doubts Agas's connection with the map, but thinks if he were the originator it could not have been done @@ -357,7 +325,7 @@ visible outside the wall St. Katherine's by the Tower, Eastminster, and the Sorores Minores, whose name still remains in the Minories, here marked. Within the City was Holy Trinity, close to Aldgate--of this a couple of most rare and interesting plans and a full account may be found in -_Mediæval London_, vol. ii.--and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also +_Mediæval London_, vol. ii.--and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also Crutched Friars, Austin Friars, Grey Friars, and, in the extreme west, near the Fleet, Blackfriars. Of these and many others full accounts may be found in the volume indicated above. @@ -397,7 +365,7 @@ shown. (See "Holborn," _Fascination of London_ Series.) * * * * * -"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS" +"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS" BY HOEFNAGEL @@ -418,7 +386,7 @@ engraved in Braun and Hogenburg's work were freshly surveyed for the purpose; and there are several points--such, for instance, as the inclusion of the steeple of St. Paul's, destroyed in 1561--which point to the fact that this version was probably taken from existing surveys. The original is -19 inches by 12¾ inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey side +19 inches by 12¾ inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey side are quite conspicuous, and so is the royal barge, in very much the same position in the river as it is in Agas's map. Here is a detailed account of it in Sir Walter Besant's own words: @@ -473,7 +441,7 @@ DESIGNER.--Being on a very small scale, these maps are not so attractive as some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of delicate penmanship, which he turned to much account in map-making. He -projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but during his lifetime only +projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but during his lifetime only managed to publish books on two counties--namely, Middlesex and Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other counties in manuscript, and these have since been published. Norden was @@ -481,7 +449,7 @@ appointed Surveyor of His Majesty's Woods in 1609. The engraving of the Middlesex maps was done by Peter Van den Keere. ORIGINALS.--The reproductions are taken from those which appear in Norden's -_Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by 6¾ inches. The wonderful +_Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by 6¾ inches. The wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated by students of London cartography. @@ -502,7 +470,7 @@ maps, and title-pages. Among his works are two large maps, entitled "Cities of London and Westminster," and of "Virginia and Maryland." ORIGINAL.--The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are -in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliothèque Nationale of +in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliothèque Nationale of Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British Museum, and is on the same scale. @@ -659,7 +627,7 @@ twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London -and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms +and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner. @@ -1248,7 +1216,7 @@ of France, but was residing in England about 1750. He engraved maps and a few views from his own designs. ORIGINAL.--The original is in twenty-four sheets, and is 13 feet in length -and 6¾ feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which is +and 6¾ feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which is here presented is the central part of this, not reduced, but on the same scale. Its interest is greatly increased by the fact that the names are printed on the map, and are not given separately as in other instances. To @@ -1616,7 +1584,7 @@ The Seal of the Antient Hospital of St. Giles. * * * * * -LONDINIUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS. +LONDINIUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS. [Illustration] @@ -1675,362 +1643,4 @@ BESANT. PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON 1903] End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 40274-8.txt or 40274-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/2/7/40274/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Maps of Old London - -Author: Anonymous - -Editor: Geraldine Edith Mitton - -Release Date: July 19, 2012 [EBook #40274] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40274 ***</div> <h5 class="lg400">MAPS</h5> @@ -268,7 +228,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> poles, a succession of which adorned the bridge throughout the centuries (see <i>The Thames</i> in above series).</p> - <p>On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see <i>Mediæval + <p>On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see <i>Mediæval London</i>, vol. ii., p. 297). It has as neighbours Winchester and Rochester Houses, the residences of the respective Bishops of those sees; while the proud cupolas of Suffolk House—built <i>circa</i> 1516, @@ -288,7 +248,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> Queens died—Katherine, consort of Henry V., and Elizabeth, consort of Edward IV. Only a year or two before this map was made had the grand old Abbey been surrendered to the King (for a full account see - <i>Mediæval London</i>, vol. ii., p. 288).</p> + <i>Mediæval London</i>, vol. ii., p. 288).</p> <p>The Tower, taken as a whole, is very much as we still know it; it is one of the oldest remaining relics of the past. Note the gruesome place @@ -355,8 +315,8 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> the Pepysian Library, Magdalen College, Oxford, and the other at the Guildhall. Edward J. Francis made a careful reproduction of that at the Guildhall in 1874, and it is from that our present plate is taken. It is, - of course, reduced, for the original is 6 feet and ½ inch long, by 2 feet - 4½ inches wide. The notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, + of course, reduced, for the original is 6 feet and ½ inch long, by 2 feet + 4½ inches wide. The notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, F.S.A., one of the leading authorities on the question. He doubts Agas's connection with the map, but thinks if he were the originator it could not have been done before 1591. The arms in the corner on the two oldest @@ -456,7 +416,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> and the Sorores Minores, whose name still remains in the Minories, here marked. Within the City was Holy Trinity, close to Aldgate—of this a couple of most rare and interesting plans and a full account may be - found in <i>Mediæval London</i>, vol. ii.—and not far off was St. + found in <i>Mediæval London</i>, vol. ii.—and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also Crutched Friars, Austin Friars, Grey Friars, and, in the extreme west, near the Fleet, Blackfriars. Of these and many others full accounts may be found in the volume indicated above.</p> @@ -503,7 +463,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> <p><a name="textIV"></a></p> -<h5 class="lg125">"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS"</h5> +<h5 class="lg125">"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS"</h5> <h5><span class="sc">By</span> HOEFNAGEL</h5> @@ -525,7 +485,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> purpose; and there are several points—such, for instance, as the inclusion of the steeple of St. Paul's, destroyed in 1561—which point to the fact that this version was probably taken from existing - surveys. The original is 19 inches by 12¾ inches. The bull- and + surveys. The original is 19 inches by 12¾ inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey side are quite conspicuous, and so is the royal barge, in very much the same position in the river as it is in Agas's map. Here is a detailed account of it in Sir Walter Besant's own @@ -585,7 +545,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> so attractive as some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of delicate penmanship, which he turned to much - account in map-making. He projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but + account in map-making. He projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but during his lifetime only managed to publish books on two counties—namely, Middlesex and Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other counties in manuscript, and @@ -594,8 +554,8 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> Peter Van den Keere.</p> <p><b>Originals.</b>—The reproductions are taken from those which - appear in Norden's <i>Middlesex</i>, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by - 6¾ inches. The wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps + appear in Norden's <i>Middlesex</i>, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by + 6¾ inches. The wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated by students of London cartography.</p> <p><br style="clear:both" /></p> @@ -621,7 +581,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> <p><b>Original.</b>—The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the - Bibliothèque Nationale of Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet + Bibliothèque Nationale of Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British Museum, and is on the same scale.</p> <p><b>Details.</b>—It will be noticed that the sheet chosen for @@ -787,7 +747,7 @@ EDWARD STANFORD,<br /> inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that - made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British + made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner.</p> @@ -1357,7 +1317,7 @@ The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map engraved maps and a few views from his own designs.</p> <p><b>Original.</b>—The original is in twenty-four sheets, and is - 13 feet in length and 6¾ feet in depth. It can be seen at the British + 13 feet in length and 6¾ feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which is here presented is the central part of this, not reduced, but on the same scale. Its interest is greatly increased by the fact that the names are printed on the map, and are not given separately @@ -1537,382 +1497,6 @@ The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map alt="Ogilby" title="Ogilby" /></a> </div> - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 40274-h.htm or 40274-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/2/7/40274/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Maps of Old London - -Author: Anonymous - -Editor: Geraldine Edith Mitton - -Release Date: July 19, 2012 [EBook #40274] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - -MAPS - -OF OLD LONDON - - I. WYNGAERDE (IN THREE SECTIONS) - II. AGAS - III. SECTION OF AGAS - IV. HOEFNAGEL - V. NORDEN LONDON - VI. NORDEN WESTMINSTER - VII. FAITHORNE - VIII. OGILBY - IX. ROCQUE - - LONDON - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - 1908 - - EDWARD STANFORD, - GEOGRAPHER TO THE KING, - 12, 13, and 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. - - * * * * * - - -EDITOR'S NOTE - -An atlas of Old London maps, showing the growth of the City throughout -successive centuries, is now issued for the first time. Up to a recent date -the maps here represented had not been reproduced in any form, and the -originals were beyond the reach of all but the few. The London -Topographical Society has done admirable work in hunting out and publishing -most of them; but these reproductions are, as nearly as possible, -facsimiles of the originals as regards size, as well as everything else. It -is not every one who can afford to belong to the society, or who wishes to -handle the maps in large sheets. In the present form they are brought -within such handy compass that they will form a useful reference-book even -to those who already own the large-scale ones, and, to the many who do not, -they will be invaluable. - -The maps here given are the best examples of those extant, and are chosen -as each being representative of a special period. All but one have appeared -in the volumes of Sir Walter Besant's great and exhaustive "Survey of -London," for which they were prepared, and the publishers believe that in -offering them separately from the books in this handy form they are -consulting the interests of a very large number of readers. - -The exception above noted is the map known as Faithorne's, showing London -as it was before the Great Fire; this is added for purposes of comparison -with that of Ogilby, which shows London rebuilt afterwards. Besides the -maps properly so called, there are some smaller views of parts of London, -all of which are included in the Survey. - -The atlas does not presume in any way to be exhaustive, but is -representative of the different periods through which London passed, and -shows most strikingly the development of the City. - -I must acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received from Mr. George -Clinch, F.G.S., in the many difficulties which arose in the course of its -preparation. - - G. E. MITTON. - - * * * * * - - -PANORAMA OF LONDON - -BY ANTONY VAN DEN WYNGAERDE - -DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest representation of London that has come -down to our time. Accurately speaking, it is not a map, but a picture; but -as many of the old maps are more or less in the same category, we need not -exclude it on that account. Such topographical drawings are apt to be -misleading, owing to the immense difficulties of perspective--witness the -wretched samples hawked about the pavements at the present time. But, -considering the difficulties, this map of Wyngaerde's is wonderfully -accurate, and it has the advantage of being full of architectural details -which no true map could give. - -DESIGNER.--Of Wyngaerde himself little is known. He is supposed to have -been a Fleming, and may have come to England in the train of Philip II. of -Spain. He is known to have made other topographical drawings. The date of -the one here reproduced cannot be fixed with perfect certainty, but must -have been between 1543 and 1550. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is in the Sutherland Collection at the Bodleian -Library, Oxford, and it measures 10 feet by 17 inches, and is in seven -sheets. A tracing of it, made by N. Whittock, can be seen in the Crace -Collection, Prints Department, British Museum, or in the Guildhall Library. - -The present reproduction is from that made by the London Topographical -Society, which photographed the original. - -It is reduced, and is here placed in three sections, which overlap for -convenience in handling. - -I. - -DETAILS.--If we examine the first section, which is that to the extreme -west, we see the Abbey, very much as it is at present, with the exception -of Wren's western towers. On the site of the present Houses of Parliament -is the King's Palace at Westminster. It is impossible here to treat this in -detail, for if that were attempted for all the buildings in this atlas, -space would fail. A concise account of Westminster may be found in the book -of that name in the _Fascination of London_ Series. The chief point to note -in the palace is St. Stephen's Chapel, of which the crypt now alone -remains. About fifteen or twenty years previous to the date of this map -King Henry VIII. had claimed Whitehall from Wolsey, and transferred himself -to it from the old palace, which was growing ruinous. - -Across the river opposite to Westminster is Lambeth, standing in a grove of -trees. - -Beyond Westminster westward all is open ground, in the midst of which we -see St. James's Hospital, where is now St. James's Palace. Though still -marked "Hospital," it had already been annexed by the King. Where is now -Trafalgar Square we are shown in the map the King's Mews, built by Henry -VIII. for his hawks. Charing Cross is marked by the cross put up in memory -of Queen Eleanor. Along the river banks is a fringe of fine houses and -foliage. We may pick out one or two of these princely buildings--namely, -Durham House, Savoy Palace, and Somerset House (see _The Strand_ in the -above series). The church of St. Clement Danes is only separated from the -open country by a single row of houses. - -On the west side of the Fleet River is Bridewell, built by Henry VIII. in -1522 for the entertainment of the Emperor Charles V. Here, in 1529, Henry -and Katherine stayed while the legality of their marriage was being -disputed in Blackfriars across the Fleet. Then we come to Old St. Paul's, -still carrying its tall spire, destined so soon to topple down. Between it -and the river is one of the most famous of the old strongholds, Baynard's -Castle. On the extreme right of the map is the port of Queenhithe, which -can be seen to-day by any wanderer in the City. - -II. - -Turning the page, we see the old City as it was before the Fire, made up of -gable-ended wooden houses with overhanging stories, crowded close together, -and diversified by the numerous pinnacles and spires of the City churches, -many of which were never rebuilt. The embattled line of the wall hems the -City in on the north, and Cheapside cuts it laterally in a broad highway. -Almost in the centre of the picture is the Guildhall. The interest reaches -its culmination in the spectacle of Old London Bridge, with its irregular -houses, its archways, and its chapel. Note that the engraver has not -omitted to indicate the decaying heads on poles, a succession of which -adorned the bridge throughout the centuries (see _The Thames_ in above -series). - -On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see _Mediaeval London_, -vol. ii., p. 297). It has as neighbours Winchester and Rochester Houses, -the residences of the respective Bishops of those sees; while the proud -cupolas of Suffolk House--built _circa_ 1516, and later used as the -Mint--are clearly shown. The houses running from it up to the foreground of -the picture are beautifully delineated, and may be taken as models of -Elizabethan architecture; while the man with the harp and the horseman are -quite clearly enough drawn to show their period by the style of their -dress. From some point behind here must Wyngaerde have made his survey, as -it is manifestly impossible it could have been done from Suffolk House, as -stated by one authority. - -III. - -There are three objects so striking in this picture that attention is at -once claimed by them to the exclusion of all else--the Abbey of Bermondsey, -the Tower of London, and Greenwich Palace. In Bermondsey two Queens -died--Katherine, consort of Henry V., and Elizabeth, consort of Edward IV. -Only a year or two before this map was made had the grand old Abbey been -surrendered to the King (for a full account see _Mediaeval London_, vol. -ii., p. 288). - -The Tower, taken as a whole, is very much as we still know it; it is one of -the oldest remaining relics of the past. Note the gruesome place of -execution near by, and the guns and primitive cranes at work upon the -wharf. Just beyond it eastward rise the fretted pinnacles of St. -Katherine's by the Tower, on the spot now covered by St. Katherine's Docks. - -Stepney Church stands far away on the horizon, cut off from the City by an -ocean of green fields. - -Returning to the south side, we see Says Court, Deptford, between -Bermondsey and Greenwich. This was for long the home of John Evelyn, and -was ruinously treated by Peter the Great, who tenanted it during his -memorable stay in this country in 1698. (For Greenwich Palace or Placentia, -see _London in the Time of the Tudors_.) - - * * * * * - -CIVITAS LONDINUM - -DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest map of London known to be in existence, -for though Wyngaerde's survey preceded it in date, as we have seen, that is -a panorama and not a map proper. The present map, which is known as that of -Ralph Agas, itself has a good deal more of the panoramic nature than would -be allowed in a modern one, and is on that account all the more -interesting. The first to connect Agas's name with this map was Vertue -(1648-1756), and he stated its date to be 1560; but, as will be seen in the -description of the next plate, Vertue's claims to strict veracity have now -been shaken, therefore his testimony must be accepted with caution. - -DESIGNER.--Ralph Agas, land surveyor and engraver, died in 1621, and he is -described in the register as "an aged." Of course, it is possible that Agas -lived to the age of eighty-five or over, in which case he might not have -been too young to execute this work in 1560, and he himself says, in a -document dated 1606, which has been preserved, that he had been in work as -a surveyor for upwards of forty years. There are two branches into which -the enquiry now resolves itself. First, did Agas really make the map? And, -second, if he did, at what date did he make it? There is no conclusive -evidence on either hand. There is a survey of Oxford, similar in character, -signed by him, and though this is not dated, it is known to have been -completed in 1578, and published ten years later. On the original copy of -this, which is at the Bodleian, there are the following lines: - - "Neare tenn yeares paste the author made a doubt - Whether to print or lay this worke aside - Untill he firste had London plotted out - Which still he craves, although he be denied - He thinkes the Citie now in hiest pride, - And would make showe how it was beste beseene - The thirtieth yeare of our moste noble queene." - -ORIGINAL.--The two earliest known copies of the Agas map, which was first -engraved on wood, are both of the same issue; one is at the Pepysian -Library, Magdalen College, Oxford, and the other at the Guildhall. Edward -J. Francis made a careful reproduction of that at the Guildhall in 1874, -and it is from that our present plate is taken. It is, of course, reduced, -for the original is 6 feet and 1/2 inch long, by 2 feet 4-1/2 inches wide. -The notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, F.S.A., one of the -leading authorities on the question. He doubts Agas's connection with the -map, but thinks if he were the originator it could not have been done -before 1591. The arms in the corner on the two oldest extant maps are those -of James I., but as the arms on the royal barge in the river are those of -Elizabeth, it has been conjectured that the maps are themselves copies of a -later edition, wherein the arms were altered in conformity with -conventional opinion. The chief points which give data from internal -evidence are as follows: St. Paul's Cathedral is bereft of its spire. This -was struck by lightning in 1561, so the map must be subsequent to that -date. The Royal Exchange is apparently built. This was opened in 1570. -Northumberland House, built about 1605, has not been begun. We may take it, -therefore, generally that the original map, which was engraved on wooden -blocks, was made some time in the latter half of Elizabeth's reign, and it -is probable that it was done by Agas. - -DETAILS.--The map abounds in interesting detail. - -Beginning in the extreme left-hand lower corner, we see St. Margaret's -Church, St. Stephen's Chapel, and Westminster Hall. In the river are swans -of monstrous size. King Street, now merged in Whitehall, is very clearly -shown, also the two heavy gates barring the way. The most northern of -these, designed by Holbein, was called after him, and stood until the -middle of the eighteenth century. North of it, on the west, is the -tilting-ground; and stags browse in St. James's Park. Between the gates, on -the east, are the Privy Gardens, overlooked by the Palace of -Whitehall--most unpalatial in appearance. - -Piccadilly is "the Waye to Redinge," and Oxford Street "the Waye to -Uxbridge." Near Whitcomb Lane and the Haymarket women are spreading clothes -in the fields to dry, while cows as large as houses graze around. St. -Martin's Lane leads up to St. Giles, more particularly dealt with in the -description of the next plate. The irregular buildings of St. Mary -Rouncevall, a religious house, had not yet been taken down to make way for -Northumberland House, itself to be replaced by Northumberland Avenue. The -houses of great nobles, with their magnificent gardens stretching down to -the waterside, are still in evidence. North of the well-laid-out Covent -Garden, owned by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, are nothing but trees -and fields. Passing on quickly down the Strand, we find Temple Bar blocking -the way to the City. This is the old Temple Bar, replaced after the Great -Fire by the one much more familiar to us, which stood until 1878. A very -fine illustration of the old one is given in Sir Walter Besant's _London in -the Time of the Tudors_, p. 245. This book should certainly be studied by -anyone desirous of understanding the map. From Temple Bar past the back of -St. Clement's Church runs a broad road roughly corresponding with our new -Kingsway. Further eastward the Fleet River still flows strongly down from -its northern heights, crossed by many bridges, and just where it joins the -Thames is Bridewell Prison. Further along, on the other side, is Baynard's -Castle, and in front of it, in the river, the Queen's barge, with the royal -arms of Elizabeth in the centre. Some way back from Baynard's Castle a -bridge crosses a street, and is marked "The Wardrop." This was in very -truth the wardrobe or repository of the royal clothes! Drawing a line -northward for some way, we come to Smithfield, where tilting is represented -as in animated progress. Not far northward is St. John's, Clerkenwell, and -its neighbouring nunnery; to the west is the Charterhouse. Turning south -again, past St. Bartholomew's Church, we see the building of Christ's -Hospital, founded by Edward VI. This, it may be noted, is one of the -buildings erected since Wyngaerde's time. Then we come to St. Paul's, shorn -of its spire, with St. Gregory's Church, quite recognizable, in front of -it. There were continual edicts against building in the Tudor and Stuart -reigns, for it was feared London would grow out of hand; but, in spite of -this, houses have enormously increased since Wyngaerde made his survey. The -battlemented wall still encloses the City, but hamlets have sprung up -outside, notably at Cripplegate. - -But within the wall there are still some fine gardens and open spaces, one -of which remains to this day in Finsbury Circus. Many roads meet in the -heart of London, where now the Bank, Mansion House, and Royal Exchange -stare across at each other. It is difficult to make out from the medley of -buildings in the map if Gresham's first Royal Exchange is there or not, but -it seems to be so. This was opened in 1570 by the Queen in person. St. -Christopher le Stock's square tower may be seen on the ground now absorbed -by the Bank of England. - -Crossing over now to the Surrey side, we see conspicuously the two round -pens for bull- and bear-baiting respectively. There are many -pleasure-gardens, for the Surrey side was for long the recreation-ground of -the Londoner. On the river there are innumerable wherries, and below the -bridge at Billingsgate many ships cluster; one has even managed to get -above the bridge. Off the Steelyard and at the Tower are men and horses in -the water. This is a most interesting point. In those at the Tower it may -be clearly seen that the man is filling the water-casks on the animals' -backs with a ladle. This gives a glimpse into the discomforts endured by -our ancestors before water-pipes were laid on as a matter of course to all -houses. In the eighteenth-century reproductions of this map, oddly enough, -in one instance this detail has disappeared, and in the other it is turned -into a man driving cows into the water with a whip; thus doing away with -all its significance. Far to the north in Spitalfields men are practising -archery; while Aldgate, for long the home of Geoffrey Chaucer, is -conspicuous a little north of the Tower. - -As became a man living in days of the Reformation, Agas does not point out -the religious houses then falling into decay or occupied by laymen, yet -what a number of them must have been still in existence! Standing on the -White Tower, and looking north and to the right hand, there must have been -visible outside the wall St. Katherine's by the Tower, Eastminster, and the -Sorores Minores, whose name still remains in the Minories, here marked. -Within the City was Holy Trinity, close to Aldgate--of this a couple of -most rare and interesting plans and a full account may be found in -_Mediaeval London_, vol. ii.--and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also -Crutched Friars, Austin Friars, Grey Friars, and, in the extreme west, near -the Fleet, Blackfriars. Of these and many others full accounts may be found -in the volume indicated above. - - * * * * * - -THE PARISH OF ST. GILES IN THE FIELDS - -DESCRIPTION.--This plate, on being compared with the preceding one, shows a -strong general resemblance, with a considerable difference in detail. Also, -below are two churches, one of which is marked, "Present St. Giles's -Church, built anno 1734," which shows that the map was made not earlier -than that date. It is, in fact, a part of one of a set of -eighteenth-century maps based on that of Agas, and not only differing from -it in detail, but also differing slightly one from another. Some of these -are unsigned, and some are signed "G. Vertue," and were specifically -claimed by Vertue as having been made by him, and based upon Agas's map of -1560. Recently, however, doubts have been raised as to Vertue's share in -the transaction, and it is now very commonly believed that he did no more -than procure some maps, engraved on pewter and made in Holland, based on -that of Agas. These he altered a little in detail, and then claimed as his -own work. The original pewter plates are in possession of the Society of -Antiquaries, Burlington House. The present example differs in some small -particulars from these. Copies of the maps are not rare, and can be seen at -the British Museum and elsewhere. - -DETAILS.--The bit of London here represented is of exceptional interest. It -shows the corner of Tottenham Court Road when High Street and Broad Street, -St. Giles, were the main highway, long before the cutting through of New -Oxford Street. It shows, further, the descent of Holborn into the valley of -the Fleet, the "heavy hill" along which criminals were brought from Newgate -to the place of execution. It shows the site where the gallows stood for -some time, about 1413, before being definitely set up at Tyburn. Close to -this was the Bowl tavern, where the condemned man was allowed his last -draft of ale. The most interesting old hospital for lepers is clearly -shown. (See "Holborn," _Fascination of London_ Series.) - - * * * * * - -"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIAE REGNI METROPOLIS" - -BY HOEFNAGEL - -DESCRIPTION.--This map seems at first sight to be much less interesting -than those which have preceded it, but that is due chiefly to its small -size. The probable date is 1572, and even if otherwise unknown, it might -have been judged approximately by the costumes of the figures in the -foreground. It must have been contemporary with, or even earlier than, -Agas, with whose work it is interesting to compare it. This map was made by -Hoefnagel, and is taken from Braun and Hogenburg's work, _Civitates Orbis -Terrarum_, in which Braun wrote the text, while Hogenburg and Hoefnagel -engraved the maps. In the left-hand top corner are the arms of Elizabeth, -and in the right-hand corner those of the City. In the later editions the -delicately drawn figures in the foreground are omitted. In his notes on Old -London Maps in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, vol. vi., Mr. -W. H. Overall says it cannot be supposed that all the cities of the world -engraved in Braun and Hogenburg's work were freshly surveyed for the -purpose; and there are several points--such, for instance, as the inclusion -of the steeple of St. Paul's, destroyed in 1561--which point to the fact -that this version was probably taken from existing surveys. The original is -19 inches by 12-3/4 inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey -side are quite conspicuous, and so is the royal barge, in very much the -same position in the river as it is in Agas's map. Here is a detailed -account of it in Sir Walter Besant's own words: - -DETAILS.--"This is in some respects more exact than the better-known map -attributed to Agas. The streets, gardens, and fields are laid down with -greater precision, and there is no serious attempt to combine, as Agas -does, a picture or a panorama with a map. At the same time, the surveyor -has been unable to resist the fashion of his time to consider the map as -laid down from a bird's-eye view, so that he thinks it necessary to give -something of elevation. - -"I will take that part of the map which lies outside the walls. The -precinct of St. Katherine stands beside the Tower, with its chapel, court, -and gardens; there are a few houses near it, apparently farmhouses. The -convent of Eastminster had entirely vanished. Nothing indicates the site of -the nunnery in the Minories, yet there were ruins of these buildings -standing here till the end of the eighteenth century. Outside Bishopsgate -houses extended past St. Mary's Spital, some of whose buildings were still -apparently standing. On the west side St. Mary of Bethlehem stood, exactly -on the site of Liverpool Street Station, but not covering nearly so large -an area; it appears to have occupied a single court, and was probably what -we should now consider a very pretty little cottage, like St. Edmund's -Hall, Oxford. - -"Outside Cripplegate the houses begin again, leaving between the Lower -Moorfields dotted with ponds; there are houses lining the road outside -Aldersgate. The courts are still standing of St. Bartholomew's Priory, -Charterhouse, St. John's Priory, and the Clerkenwell nunnery; Smithfield is -surrounded with houses; Bridewell, with its two square courts, stands upon -the river bank; Fleet Street is irregular in shape, the houses being -nowhere in line; the courts of Whitefriars are still remaining. The Strand -has all its great houses facing the river; their backs open upon a broad -street, with a line of mean houses on the north side. On the south of the -river there is a line of houses on the High Street, a line of houses along -the river bank on either side, and another one running near Bermondsey -Abbey. - -"Within the walls we observe that some of the religious houses have quite -disappeared--Crutched Friars, for instance. There is a vacant space, which -is probably one of the courts of St. Helen's. The Priory of the Holy -Trinity preserves its courts, but there is no sign of the church. There are -still visible the courts and gardens of Austin Friars. There is still the -great court of the Grey Friars, but the buildings of Blackfriars seem to -have vanished entirely" (_London in the Time of the Tudors_, p. 185). - - * * * * * - -NORDEN'S MAPS OF LONDON AND WESTMINSTER - -DESIGNER.--Being on a very small scale, these maps are not so attractive as -some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born -about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of -delicate penmanship, which he turned to much account in map-making. He -projected a whole "Speculum Britanniae," but during his lifetime only -managed to publish books on two counties--namely, Middlesex and -Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other -counties in manuscript, and these have since been published. Norden was -appointed Surveyor of His Majesty's Woods in 1609. The engraving of the -Middlesex maps was done by Peter Van den Keere. - -ORIGINALS.--The reproductions are taken from those which appear in Norden's -_Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9-1/2 inches by 6-3/4 inches. The -wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated -by students of London cartography. - - * * * * * - -FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT - -DESCRIPTION.--This map generally goes by the name of Faithorne, the -engraver, but in reality the credit is due quite as much to Richard -Newcourt the elder (d. 1679), who was the draughtsman. It is selected for a -place here because, the date being 1658, it shows the City as it was before -the Fire, and therefore forms a supplement to the map of Ogilby which -follows, and shows the City as it was when rebuilt after the Fire. - -ENGRAVER.--William Faithorne the elder was born in 1616, and was an -engraver and portrait painter. He engraved numerous portraits, book-plates, -maps, and title-pages. Among his works are two large maps, entitled "Cities -of London and Westminster," and of "Virginia and Maryland." - -ORIGINAL.--The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are -in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliotheque Nationale of -Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British -Museum, and is on the same scale. - -DETAILS.--It will be noticed that the sheet chosen for inclusion in this -atlas shows very nearly the same area as the map of Ogilby which follows, -but does not go quite so far eastward as the Tower. The City wall is -clearly shown along the north side of the City, and the bastion near -Cripplegate stands out; the town ditch can be traced just beyond this -corner running southward. It was the curious and apparently meaningless -angle that the wall makes here which led Sir Walter Besant to suggest that -it may have been designed to exclude the ancient Roman amphitheatre, of -which the site is now lost (see _Early London_, p. 85). The Fleet River is -shown still open and crossed by bridges, of which there are no fewer than -five from Holborn to the mouth. That at Fleet Street shows, indeed, a -continuous line of houses. St. Paul's is very clearly delineated. The -figures within the City refer to the old churches, of which a list is given -below. Notice the gable roofs, still the chief style of domestic -architecture. The lines of the streets in the heart of the City remain -wonderfully the same to our own day. Outside the walls the City is -stretching out great arms into the country. There is one such arm made by -the continuous houses fringing Bishopsgate Street as far as the extreme -northern limit of the map. Then there is a gap between this and Moorgate -Street, including all the ground known at Moorfields and Finsbury. A few -scattered houses and some cultivated fields cover this space, and in one -corner is "Bedlame." - -A mass of houses lies westward, running on to the Charter House, northward -of which are open fields, and so to "Clarkin Well." - - THE SEVERALL CHVRCHES WITHIN THE WALLES OF LONDON DISTINGUISHED BY - SEUERALL FIGURES, BY WHICH ALLSOE THE EYE MAY PARTLY BE GUIDED TO THE - EMINENT STREETS IN OR NEERE WHICH THEY STAND, WHICH COULD NOT WELL BE - OTHERWISE DEMONSTRATED, IN REGARD OF THE SMALL SCALE BY WHICH THIS MAPP - IS DESCRIBED. - - 1. Albans in Woodstreet - 2. Alhallows Barkin nere Tower hill - 3. Alhallows in Bread street - 4. Alhallows y^e Greate in Thamas streete - 5. Alhallows the Lesse do. do. - 6. Alhallows in Hony lane nere Chepside - 7. Alhallows in Lumber street - 8. Alhallows Stayninge nere Fanshawes street - 9. Alhallows in y^e Wall nere Moorefeilds - 10. Alphage by y^e Wall nere Cripple gate - 11. Andrew Hubard by Philpot lan - 12. Andrew Vndershaft - 13. Andrew in y^e Wardrop aboue Pudle wharfe - 14. Ann at Alders gate - 15. Ann in Black friers - 16. Antholins in Watling streete - 17. Austins nere Paules church - 18. Bartholomew by y^e Exchange - 19. Bennet Finch - 20. Bennet Grace church neer Gracious streete - 21. Bennet at Paules wharfe - 22. Bennet Sherehogg nere Bucklers berry - 23. Bottolph at Billings-gate - 24. Christs Church by Newgate streete - 25. Christophers in Thredneedle streete - 26. Clements in East chepe - 27. Dennis back Church nere E[=a]shastreete - 28. Dunstanes in y^e East nere Tower street - 29. Edmonds in Lumber streete - 30. Ethelborough in Bishops gate street - 31. Faith under Paules - 32. Foster in Foster lane nere Chepside - 65. French Church in Third needle street - 33. Gabriell in Fanshawes streete - 34. Georges in Bottolph lane - 35. Gregories by Paules - 36. Hellins nere Bishops gate - 37. Iames Dukes place nere Aldgat - 38. Iames Garlick hill by Bow lane - 39. Iohn Baptist nere Dow gate street - 40. Iohn Euangelist nere Friday street - 41. Iohn Zachary nere Foster lane - 42. Katherin Coleman nere Fanshawes stret - 43. Katherin Cree church nere Aldgate - 44. Lawrence Iury nere Guild hall - 45. Lawrence Poultney nere Eastchepe - 46. Leonarde in East-chepe - 47. Leonarde in Foster lane - 48. Magnus by the Bridge - 49. Margrett in Lothberry - 50. Margrett Moses next Friday street - 51. Margrett in new Fishstreete - 52. Margrett in Rood lane - 53. Mary Abchurch Lane - 54. Mary Aldermanberry - 55. Mary Aldermary nere Watling streete - 56. Mary le Bow in Chepside - 57. Mary Bothaw in Cannon streete - 58. Mary Cole church in Chepside - 59. Mary Hill aboue Billings gate - 60. Mary Mounthaw aboue Broken warfe - 61. Mary Somersett nere Broken wharfe - 62. Mary Staynings nere Alders gate - 63. Mary Woollchurch nere y^e Stocks - 64. Mary Woollnoth in Lumber streete - 66. Martins Iremonger lane nere Chepside - 67. Martins with^{in} Ludgate - 68. Martins Orgars nere Eastcheape - 69. Martins Outwitch next Bishopsgate stret - 70. Martins Vintree neere y^e 3 Cranes - 71. Mathews in Friday Street - 72. Maudlins milke str[=e]t neere Chepside - 73. Maudlins in Old Fishstreete - 74. Michaell Bashaw behind Guildhall - 75. Michaell in Cornhill - 76. Michaell Crooked Lane neere N Fish'trete - 77. Michaell att Quene Hith - 78. Michaell y^e Querne vper end of Chepside - 79. Michaell Royall att Colledge Hill - 80. Michaell in Woodstreet nere Chepside - 81. Mildred in Bred streete nere Chepside - 82. Mildred in the Poultry - 83. Nicholas Acons Nicholas lane nere L[=u]berstreet - 84. Nicholas Cole Abby in old Fishstreet - 85. Nicholas Olaves in Breadstreet - 86. Olaues in Hart street nere Cruched friers - 87. Olaues in old Iury at y^e lower end of Chepside - 88. Olaues in Silver streete - 89. Pancras in Soper lane nere Bucklerbery - 90. Peters nere Chepside - 91. Peters in Cornehill - 92. Peters nere Paules wharfe - 93. Peters y^e poore nere Brod streete - 94. Steven in Coleman streete nere Moregate - 95. Steven in Wallbrooke - 96. Swithens in Ca[=n]on streete by London stone - 97. Thomas y^e Apostle - 98. Trinitie Church aboue Quene Hith - 99. Dutch Church nere Brodstreete - - * * * * * - -OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON - -DESCRIPTION.--This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have -yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and -the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist -in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire. - -DESIGNER.--John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention -to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment -as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the -year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William -Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map -was done by Hollar. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in -twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen -in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two -examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional -sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London -and Middlesex Archaeological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms -of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas -Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner. - -DETAILS.--Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, -bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John -Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse -bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery -Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their -equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury -Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that -the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for -their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is -new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, -there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward -innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day -behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of -their existence could possibly find them. - -On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of -the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of -the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. -Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor -and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the -receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up -a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, -and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and -another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great -thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were -made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only -finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in -1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with -the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the -improvements here may be considered complete. - -To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; -their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. -Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make -way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is -covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main -highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There -was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and -the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the -smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, -and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a -palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. -to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of -the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The -site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the -rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with -remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were -camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to -the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed -since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt -out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of -the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone -also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards -quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant -says: - -"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets -and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before -the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the -same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between -Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity -Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd -more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire -London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at -the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps--'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, -m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf -Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive -to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running -narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. -There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 -yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the -standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a -spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (_London in -the Time of the Stuarts_, p. 280). - -THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN -THE BRITISH MUSEUM - -We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes -and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, -and 210 Yards bearing Name. - -The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. -The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and -Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the -Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in -the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. -The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with -Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to -Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and -sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left -Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, -Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. -faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words -at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to -the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every -Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, -Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the -Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane. - -THE SEVERAL MARKS AND NAMES OF THE WARDS, PARISHES, AND LIBERTIES - - WARDS - - A Faringdon Without - B Faringdon Within - C Bainard-Castle - D Bread-Street - E Queen-Hith - F Cordwainers - G Walbrook - H Vintry - I Dowgate - K Broad-Street - L Cornhil - M Cheap - N Bassishaw - O Coleman-Street - P Bishopsgate - Q Cripplegate - T Tower - R Aldersgate - S Billingsgate - T Lime-Street - U Langborn - W Portsoken - X Aldgate - Y Candlewick - Z Bridg - - PARISHES AND LIBERTIES - - 1. St. James Clerkenwel - 2. St. Giles Cripple-Gate - 3. St. Leonard Shoreditch - 4. Norton-Folgate Liberty - 5. St. Botolph Bishopsgate - 6. Stepney - 7. St. Stephen Coleman Street - 8. Alhallows on the Wall - 9. St. Andrew Holborn - 10. St. Giles in the Fields - 11. St. Sepulchers - 12. St. Mary Cole-Church - 13. St. Botolph Aldersgate - 14. St. Alphage - 15. St. Alban Wood Street - 16. St. Olave Silver Street - 17. St. Michael Bassishaw - 18. Christ Church - 19. St. Anne Aldersgate - 20. St. Mary Staining - 21. St. Mary Aldermanbury - 22. St. Olave Jewry - 23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane - 24. St. Mildred Poultry - 25. St. Bennet Sherehog - 26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane - 27. St. Laurence Jewry - 28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street - 29. Alhallows Hony Lane - 30. St. Mary le Bow - 31. St. Peter Cheap - 32. St. Michael Wood Street - 33. St. John Zachary - 34. St. Martins Liberty - 35. St. Leonard Foster Lane - 36. St. Vedast, alias Foster - 37. St. Michael Quern - 38. St. John Evangelist - 39. St. Mathew Friday Street - 40. St. Margaret Lothbury - 41. St. Bartholemew Exchange - 42. St. Christophers - 43. St. Mary Woolnoth - 44. St. Mary Woolchurch - 45. St. Michael Cornhil - 46. St. Bennet Fink - 47. St. Peter Poor - 48. St. Peter Cornhil - 49. St. Martin Outwich - 50. St. Hellens - 51. St. Ethelborough - 52. St. Andrew Undershaft - 53. Alhallows Lumbard Street - 54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street - 55. St. Dionis Back-Church - 56. St. Katherine Cree-Church - 57. St. James Dukes Place - 58. St. Katherine Coleman - 59. St. Olave Hart Street - 60. St. Botolph Aldgate - 61. St. Mary White Chapel - 62. Trinity Minories - 63. St. Bartholemew the Great - 64. Alhallows Staining - 65. Alhallows Barking - 66. St. Mary Abchurch - 67. St. Nicholas Accorn - 68. St. Clement East Cheap - 69. St. Bennet Grace-Church - 70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch - 71. St. Margaret Pattons - 72. St. Andrew Hubbart - 73. Dutchy Liberty - 74. St. Clement Danes - 75. Rolls Liberty - 76. St. Dunstan in the West - 77. White Fryers Precinct - 78. St. Bridget - 79. Bridewel Precinct - 80. St. Anne Black-Fryers - 81. St. Martin's Ludgate - 82. St. Gregories - 83. St. Andrew Wardrobe - 84. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf - 85. St. Peter - 86. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street - 87. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby - 88. St. Austine - 89. St. Margaret Moses - 90. Alhallows Bread-Street - 91. St. Mildred Bread-Street - 92. St. Nicholas Olave - 93. St. Mary Mounthaw - 94. St. Mary Somerset - 95. St. Michael Queen Hith - 96. Trinity - 97. St. Mary Aldermary - 98. St. Thomas Apostles - 99. St. Michael Royal - 100. St. James Garlick-Hith - 101. St. Martin Vintry - 102. St. Antholin's - 103. St. John Baptist - 104. St. Stephen Walbrook - 105. St. Swithin - 106. St. Mary Bothaw - 107. Alhallows the Great - 108. St. Faith's - 109. St. Leonard East Cheap - 110. St. Laurence Poultney - 111. St. Martin Orgar's - 112. Little Alhallows - 113. St. Michael Crooked Lane - 114. St. Magnus at the Bridg - 115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street - 116. St. George Botolph Lane - 117. St. Botolph Billingsgate - 118. St. Mary Hill - 119. St. Dunstans in the East - 120. Little St. Bartholemews - 121. Tower Liberty - 122. St. Katherines - - LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 - COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY - The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on - the Map - - 7-14. African House, Throgmorton Street, B55 - 2-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7 - 7-18. Aldgate - 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church - 9-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church - 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great - 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little - 7-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] - 9-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church - 5-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church - 9-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane - 9-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 - 5-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 - 11-1. Arundel House - - 5-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 - 6-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 - 6-3. Barnard's Inn - 6-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 - 8-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 - 3-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 - 6-14. Bethlehem, New - 6-15. Bishops Gate - 6-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 - 6-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 - 10-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 - 7-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 - 7-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 - 6-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 - 9-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 - 6-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 - 8-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 - 9-6. Bridewell - 9-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane - 3-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 - 6-2. Brook House - 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 - 6-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 - 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39 - - 9-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 - 3-6. Charter House - 7-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street - 7-7. Christ Hospital - 7-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 - 9-1. Clements Inn - 6-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 - 9-3. Clifford's Inn - 9-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 - 6-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 - 6-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 - 9-9. Cordwainers Hall - 5-10. Cripple Gate - 5-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 - 7-2. Cursitor's Office - 11-17. Custome house - 9-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21 - - 6-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 - 5-16. Devonshire House, A73 - 9-9. Doctors Commons, C10 - 3-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 - 7-14. Drapers Hall, B57 - 6-14. Dutch Church - 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street - - 8-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 - 6-4. Ely House - 10-1. Essex House - 6-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60 - - 10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] - 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street - 9-6. Fleet Bridg - 8-5. Fleet [Prison] - 7-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 - 7-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 - 7-14. French Church, B62 - 6-3. Furnival's Inn - - 6-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 - 9-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 - 5-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 - 3-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 - 7-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 - 5-1. Gray's Inn - 7-15. Gresham Colledge - 3-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 - 8-12. Grocers Hall, B53 - 7-11. Guild Hall - - 7-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 - 7-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 - 4-6. Hicks's Hall - 7-5. Holborn Bridge - ---- [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] - ---- [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories] - - 9-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane - 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 - 8-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 - 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37 - - 6-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 - 9-7. King's Printing House, C3 - - 5-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 - 7-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 - 8-15. Leaden Hall Market - 6-16. Leather-Sellers Hall - 7-2. Lincoln's Inn - 10-1. Lions Inne - 11-14. London Bridg - 5-8. London House, A57 - 9-7. Ludgate - 9-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane) - - 8-11. Mercer's Chapel - 8-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall - 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 - 9-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane - 8-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market - ---- [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"] - - 9-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26 - 10-1. New Inn - 2-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green - 2-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6 - 7-6. Newgate - 8-7. Newgate Market - - 10-10. Painters Stainers Hall - 8-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54 - 6-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22 - 8-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62 - 7-7. Physicians College, B37 - 6-14. Pinner's Hall, B21 - 6-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6 - 6-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59 - 8-12. Poultry Compter, B83 - 9-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6 - - 8-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75 - 7-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91 - 8-14. Royal Exchange - - 7-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41 - 9-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23 - 6-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93 - 9-6. Scotch Hall, C2 - 6-9. Scriveners Hall - 9-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97 - 9-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street - 8-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly - 9-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7 - 8-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71 - 5-11. Sion College, A61 - 9-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72 - 10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33 - 5-6. Smithfield Penns - 11-1. Somerset House - 6-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church - 5-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall - 6-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church - 10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, - between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] - 8-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66 - 10-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church - 6-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church - 9-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church - 9-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row - 8-9. St. Austine's Church - 5-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great - 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little - 8-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church - 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital - 8-13. St. Bennet Fink Church - 8-15. St. Bennet Grace Church - 10-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church - 8-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church - 9-6. St. Bridget's Church - 6-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church - 6-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church - 11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames - Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] - 5-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church - 8-13. St. Christophers Church - 10-1. St. Clement Danes Church - 9-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church - 9-3. St. Dunstan's Church - 10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church - 9-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church - 6-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. - of Little St. Hellens] - 9-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's] - 9-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of - Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane] - 10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40 - 4-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church - 9-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's] - 7-16. St. Hellen's Church - 7-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place - 10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church - 9-12. St. John Baptist Church - 9-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at - the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north] - 6-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane - 8-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church - 8-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68 - 10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church - 7-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church - 10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church - 7-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church - 11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59 - 9-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church - 6-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church - 9-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church - 9-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church - 6-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old - Jewry] - 10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43 - 8-10. St. Mary le Bow Church - 7-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony - lane Market] - 10-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church - 10-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church - 10-9. St. Mary Somerset Church - 6-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane - 8-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market] - 8-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head - Alley] - 7-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church - 9-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of - Basing Lane] - 9-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church - 10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the - Monument] - 7-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining - the west end of St. Olave Jewry] - 8-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church - 10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church - 7-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner - of Thread Needle Street] - 10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church - 8-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church - 9-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church - 8-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84 - 6-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church - 8-14. St. Michael Cornhil - 10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church - 10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church - 7-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of - Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street] - 9-11. St. Michael Royal Church - 7-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45 - 9-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church - 9-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old - Fish St. Hill) - 9-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near - middle of W. side] - 9-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27 - 7-12. St. Olave Jewry Church - 5-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church - 8-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church - 9-8. St. Paul's Cathedral - 9-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5 - 11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London - 7-10. St. Peter Cheap Church - 6-14. St. Peter Poor Church - 10-8. St. Peter's Church - 8-14. St. Peter's Cornhil - 7-6. St. Sephlcher's Church - 6-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56 - 9-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church - 10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street - 9-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles - 7-9. St. Vedast Church, B40 - 6-2. Staple Inn - 8-7. Stationers Hall - 6-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89 - 6-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11 - - 9-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22 - 10-3. Temple Church - 5-9. Thanet House, A58 - 6-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86 - 11-19. Tower, The - ---- Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, - which see] - 10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45 - 8-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70 - 9-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4 - - 11-11. Vintonners Hall - 8-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85 - - 10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38 - 6-1. Warwick House - 11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28 - 11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57 - 7-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43 - 6-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13 - 8-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53 - 10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, _m_15 - 7-10. Wood Street Compter, B46 - 9-12. Wool Church Market - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN 1741-45 - -BY JOHN ROCQUE - -DESCRIPTION.--In some ways this map is the most interesting of the whole -series, for it comes nearest to our own times, and yet by studying it we -can infer the remarkable changes that have taken place within the memory of -man. It is much more comprehensive than Ogilby's, including the whole of -the outlying suburbs, and even going as far as Edgware and Tottenham, which -are still no part even of Greater London. - -DESIGNER.--Very little is known about John Rocque. He was probably a native -of France, but was residing in England about 1750. He engraved maps and a -few views from his own designs. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is in twenty-four sheets, and is 13 feet in length -and 6-3/4 feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which -is here presented is the central part of this, not reduced, but on the same -scale. Its interest is greatly increased by the fact that the names are -printed on the map, and are not given separately as in other instances. To -facilitate this Rocque has marked the houses bordering streets in white, -and only blocked them in black where they line market-gardens and other -parts indicated by a light surface. The map is a model of care and -comprehensive detail. - -DETAIL.--Beginning in the lower left-hand corner, we have the Royal -Hospital, with its neatly-laid-out grounds. Close to it the Westbourne, -whose irregular line determined the boundaries of Chelsea, falls into the -Thames; higher up its course is through the Five Fields, now one of the -most wealthy and popular districts of London--namely, Belgravia. St. -George's Hospital is already standing at Hyde Park Corner, and a fringe of -houses lines the road to Knightsbridge. Westminster is still largely open -in the west by Tothill Fields, scene of so many tournaments and jousts, and -the curve of the river encloses innumerable market-gardens. In St. James's -Park the stiff canal, memento of Dutch influence, has not yet been -transformed into the more attractive ornamental water. Carlton House -Terrace has not come into existence. Here Carlton House, which does not -appear to be marked, was standing, and was occupied by Frederick, Prince of -Wales, father of George III. North of this, with the omission of Regent -Street, made in 1813-20, the streets are pretty much as we know them. It is -beyond Oxford Street northward that the difference is striking. This -district was only just being built upon, and the well-laid-out streets soon -run off into open country. "Marybone" Gardens, a favourite tea-garden, and -the church, and a few houses, form a little hamlet just connected with the -other part of London by a single street, and further westward, north of -Berkeley Square, are fields. In the midst of these is the "Yorkshire -Stingo," the public-house from which the first omnibus in the Metropolis -began to run in 1829. The Tyburn Gallows still had much work to do; it was -fifty years later that the last execution took place here. Just within the -Hyde Park is the gruesome record, "where soldiers are shot." If we follow -Oxford Street eastward to Tottenham Court Road, we find that it is only -connected with High Holborn by the curve through High and Broad Streets at -St. Giles's. To the south is the star of Seven Dials, and all the district -so completely altered by the cutting through of Charing Cross Road, and -then Shaftesbury Avenue in modern times. To the north, Montagu House -occupies the site the British Museum was destined to fill; it was purchased -by the Government in 1753, and pulled down about a hundred years later. -Bedford House, the town residence of the Dukes of Bedford, stood until -1800. Behind, Lamb's Conduit Fields run up to Battle Bridge, where one of -the early British battles was fought; this is now the site of King's Cross -Station. Not far off Bagnigge Wells and Sadler's Wells are in the heyday of -their prosperity. The Fleet or River of Wells may be traced passing through -the former, but further south it is covered in, and does not appear in the -open again until below Fleet Bridge, when it is ignominiously called Fleet -Ditch. - -Thames side is still fringed with "stairs to take water at" leading from -the great houses on the margin, and there is as yet no embankment. -Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, however, afford easy access to the -southern side. The labyrinth of the City is not seriously different from -that of the present day except in the omission of Cannon Street. Bethlehem -Hospital is still conspicuous, and the City wall has vanished strangely. -What we now call Finsbury Square is marked as Upper Moorfields. We have to -go far before we clear the houses to the east. Stepney and Bethnal Green -are fairly thickly populated, and though surrounded by open ground, are -connected by houses all the way from the City. But in the bend of the river -by Wapping the chief area is occupied by market-gardens. Crossing over to -the other side, we find the market-gardens very prominent; as London grows -larger she thrusts her sources of supply further from her. The central -ganglion of the Borough Road and its ray-like connections are marked out. -At one end is the "King's Bench," which was close to the Marshalsea, -associated with "Little Dorrit." The Marshalsea itself is not marked. -Dickens was yet to come, and it was only through his writings that it -gained a sentimental interest. A great part of the Borough is very marshy -indeed, and we note frequent ponds. The "Dog and Duck," otherwise "St. -George's Spaw," is almost surrounded by them. - -To sum up in Sir Walter Besant's words: - -"London, then, in the eighteenth century consisted first of the City, -nearly the whole of which had been rebuilt after the Fire, only a small -portion in the east and north containing the older buildings; a workmen's -quarter at Whitechapel; a lawyer's quarter from Gray's Inn to the Temple, -both inclusive; a quarter north of the Strand occupied by coffee-houses, -taverns, theatres, a great market, and the people belonging to these -places; an aristocratic quarter lying east of Hyde Park; and Westminster, -with its Houses of Parliament, its Abbey, and the worst slums in the whole -City. On the other side of the river, between London Bridge and St. -George's, was a busy High Street with streets to right and left; the river -bank was lined with houses from Paris Gardens to Rotherhithe; there were -streets at the back of St. Thomas's and Guy's; Lambeth Marsh lay in open -fields, and gardens intersected by sluggish streams and ditches; and -Rotherhithe Marsh lay equally open in meadows and gardens, with ponds and -ditches in the east.... - -"From any part of London it was possible to get into the country in a -quarter of an hour. One realizes the rural surroundings of the City by -considering that north of Gray's Inn was open country with fields; that -Queen Square, Bloomsbury, had its north side left purposely open in order -that the residents might enjoy the view of the Highgate and Hampstead -Hills. On the south side of the river Camberwell was a leafy grove; Herne -Hill was a park set with stately trees; Denmark Hill was a wooded wild; the -hanging woods of Penge and Norwood were as lovely as those that one can now -see at Cliveden or on the banks of the Wye" (_London in the Eighteenth -Century_, pp. 77-79). - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 1. The Palace of Westminster. - 2. St. Stephen's Chapel. - 3. Westminster Hall. - 4. Westminster Abbey. - 5. Old Palace Yard. - 6. The Clock Tower. - 7. The Gate House. - 8. St. Margaret's Church. - 9. The King's Stairs. - 10. Star Chamber. - 11. Lambeth Palace. - 12. Stangate Horse Ferry. - 13. St. James's Hospital. - 14. St. James's. - 15. Whitehall. - 16. Holbein's Gate. - 17. Scotland Yard. - 18. Charing Cross. - 19. King's Mews. - 20. St. Martin's Church. - 21. St. Mary's Hospital. - 22. St. Giles's Church. - 23. Convent Garden. - 24. The Strand. - 25. York House. - 26. Durham House. - 27. Savoy Palace. - 28. Somerset Place. - 29. St. Mary Le Strand. - 30. St. Clement's Dane. - 31. Lincoln's Inn. - 32. Lincoln's Inn Fields. - 33. Gray's Inn. - 34. Ely House. - 35. Fetter Lane. - 36. Rolls Place. - 37. St. Dunstan's Church. - 38. The Temple Church. - 39. The Temple. - 40. Fleet Street. - 41. Grey Friars. - 42. Palace of Bridewell. - 43. St. Bride's. - 44. St. Andrew's Church. - 45. St. Sepulchre's Church. - 46. Fleet Ditch. - 47. St. John's Hospital. - 48. Smithfield. - 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. - 50. Newgate. - 51. Ludgate. - 52. Blackfriars. - 53. The Wardrobe. - 54. Baynard Castle. - 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. - 56. St. Paul's Cross. - 57. St. Bartholomew's the Great. - 58. Grey Friars. - 59. Queen Hythe. - 64. The Standard. - 66. Rochester House. - 69. The Stews. - 128. Bank Side. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234 and 350._ - - _pp. 218, 219._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 47. St. John's Hospital. - 48. Smithfield. - 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. - 54. Baynard Castle. - 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. - 58. Grey Friars. - 59. Queen Hythe. - 60. St. Martin's le Grand. - 61. Aldersgate. - 62. Jews' Cemetery. - 63. Cheapside. - 64. The Standard. - 65. Cross, Cheapside. - 66. Rochester House. - 67. Winchester House. - 68. St. Mary's Overie. - 70. St. Thomas's Hospital. - 71. St. George's Church. - 72. Kent Road. - 73. Suffolk House. - 74. St. Giles's, Cripplegate. - 75. Cripplegate. - 76. The Barbican. - 77. St. Albans, Wood Street. - 78. Bow Church. - 79. Broken Wharf. - 80. The Cranes. - 81. The Steel Yard. - 82. Cold Harbour. - 83. Fishmongers' Hall. - 84. St. Thomas of Acons. - 85. Guildhall. - 86. Moorgate. - 87. Austin Friars. - 88. Bishopsgate. - 89. Church of St. Magnus. - 90. London Bridge. - 91. St. Thomas's Chapel. - 92. Bridge House. - 93. St. Olave's Church. - 94. St. Agnes's le Clare. - 95. Hoxton. - 96. St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. - 97. Leadenhall. - 98. Botolph Wharf. - 99. Billingsgate. - 100. St. Mary Spittal. - 101. Walls of London. - 107. High Street, Southwark. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 218 and 350._ - - _pp. 234-235._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 100. St. Mary Spittal. - 102. Houndsditch. - 103. Crutched Friars. - 104. Priory of Holy Trinity. - 105. Aldgate. - 106. St. Botolph. Aldgate. - 107. The Minories. - 108. The Postern Gate. - 109. Great Tower Hill. - 110. Place of Execution. - 111. Allhallow's Church, Barking. - 112. The Custom House. - 113. Tower of London. - 114. The White Tower. - 115. Traitors' Gate. - 116. Little Tower Hill. - 117. East Smithfield. - 118. Stepney. - 119. St. Catherine's Church. - 120. St. Catherine's Dock. - 121. St. Catherine's Hospital. - 122. Isle of Dogs. - 123. Monastery of Bermondsey. - 124. Says Court, Deptford. - 125. Palace of Placentia. - 126. Greenwich. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library. -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234, 235._ - - _pp. 350. 351._ - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS. A REPRODUCTION, REDUCED, OF THE MAP BY -RALPH AGAS, CIRCA 1580. - -[Illustration] - -This antient and famous City of London, was first founded by _Brute_ the -Trojan, in the year of the World two thousand, eight hundred thirty & two, -and before the Nativity of our Saviour Christ, one thousand, one hundred, -and 30. So that since the first building, it is 2 thousand 6 hundred 60 & 3 -years. And afterward was repaired & enlarged by King _Lud_, but at this -present so flourisheth, that it containeth in length from the East to the -West about 3. English miles, from the North to the South about 2. English -miles. It is also so plentifully peopled, that it is divided into a hundred -and 22 Parishes within the Liberties, besides 16 Parishes that are in the -suburbs. It is planted on a very good soyle: for on the one side it is -compassed with corne & pasture ground, and on the other side it is inclosed -with the river of Thames, which not only aboundeth in allkind of fresh -water-fish, but also is so navigable, that it as well bringeth abundance of -commoditities as the plentifulnesse of our Contry doth yeild us:which both -augments the fame thereof abroad, and also increaseth the riches thereof at -hom; so that as it is head and chief City ofthe whole Realm, so is it -likewise head and chief Chamber of the whole Realm, as well for our outward -as inward commoditites. God prosper it at his pleasure. Amen. - - New Troy my name, when firts my fame begun - By Trajon Brute: who then me placed here: - On fruitfull soyle, where pleasant Thames doth run - Sith Lud my Lord, my King and Lover dear, - Encreast my boundes and London (far that rings - Through Regions large) he called then my name - How famous since (I stately seat of Kings) - Have flourish'd aye: let others that proclaim. - And let me joy thus happy still to see - This vertuous Peer my Sovereign King to be. - -_From a facsimile reproduction of the original map by Edward J. Francis, in -the possession of John C. Francis._ - -_MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS," BY SIR WALTER BESANT. -PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, 1904_ - - * * * * * - -THE PARISH OF St. Giles in the Fields, LONDON. - -[Illustration] - -REFERENCES. - -_1. The first ST. GILES'S CHURCH._ - -_2. Remains of the Walls, antiently enclosing the Hospital precincts._ - -_3. Site of the Gallows and afterwards of the Pound_ - -_4. Way to Uxbridge now OXFORD ST._ - -_5._ ELDE-STRATE, _since called HOG-LANE_. - -_6._ LE-LANE, _now MONMOUTH ST._ - -_7. Site of the_ SEVEN DIALS, _formerly called COCK and PYE FIELDS_. - -_8._ ELM CLOSE _since called LONG-ACRE_. - -_9. Site of_ LINCOLNS-INN-FIELDS _formerly called FICKETS-FIELDS_. - -A VIEW _of part of the North-west Suburbs_ OF LONDON, _as they appeared, -anno 1570. Including the whole of the parish of ST. GILES in the FIELDS and -its immediate Neighbourhood, its_ PAROCHIAL CHURCHES _erected at different -periods &c._ - -_The part of the North West Suburbs of London, since called Saint Giles's -was about the time of the Norman Conquest an un-built tract of country, or -but thinly scattered with habitations.--The parish derived its name if not -its origin from the ancient Hospital for Lepers, which was built on the -site of the present church by MATILDA queen of King Henry I and dedicated -to Saint Giles: before which time there had been only a small Chapel or -Oratory on the spot.--It is described in old records as abounding with -gardens and dwellings in the flourishing times of Saint Giles's Hospital, -but declined in population and buildings after the suppression of that -establishment and remained but an inconsiderable village till the end of -the reign of Elizabeth, after which period it was rapidly built on and -became distinguished for the number and rank of its inhabitants. The great -increase of St. Giles's Parish occasioned the separation of St. Georges -Bloomsbury Parish from it anno 1734.--The above view (which is partly -supplied by the great Plan of London by Ralph Aggas, and partly from -authorities furnished by parochial documents) was taken anno 1570._ - -The Seal of the Antient Hospital of St. Giles. - - _pp. 190, 191._ - - * * * * * - -LONDINIUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIAE REGNI METROPOLIS. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -LONDON - -[Illustration] - -LONDON, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] - - * * * * * - -WESTMINSTER - -[Illustration] - -WESTMINSTER, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] - - * * * * * - -LONDON - -[Illustration] - -CITY OF LONDON, 1658. BY FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT.] - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN 1741-5. BY JOHN ROCQUE. - -[Illustration] - -MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY" BY SIR WALTER BESANT. -PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, LONDON.] - - * * * * * - -A LARGE AND ACCURATE MAP OF THE CITY OF LONDON - -Ichnographically Describing all the Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, Yards, -Churches, Halls and Houses, &c. Actually Surveyed and Delineated. By JOHN -OGILBY Esq; His Majesties Cosmographer. - -[Illustration] - -_For explanations of the references &c. on map see pp 356-396 of the book_ - -MAP ACCOMPANYING "_LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE STUARTS_" BY SIR WALTER -BESANT. PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON 1903] - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 40274.txt or 40274.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/2/7/40274/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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