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diff --git a/40274.txt b/40274.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 103bc38..0000000 --- a/40274.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2036 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Maps of Old London - -Author: Anonymous - -Editor: Geraldine Edith Mitton - -Release Date: July 19, 2012 [EBook #40274] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - -MAPS - -OF OLD LONDON - - I. WYNGAERDE (IN THREE SECTIONS) - II. AGAS - III. SECTION OF AGAS - IV. HOEFNAGEL - V. NORDEN LONDON - VI. NORDEN WESTMINSTER - VII. FAITHORNE - VIII. OGILBY - IX. ROCQUE - - LONDON - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - 1908 - - EDWARD STANFORD, - GEOGRAPHER TO THE KING, - 12, 13, and 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. - - * * * * * - - -EDITOR'S NOTE - -An atlas of Old London maps, showing the growth of the City throughout -successive centuries, is now issued for the first time. Up to a recent date -the maps here represented had not been reproduced in any form, and the -originals were beyond the reach of all but the few. The London -Topographical Society has done admirable work in hunting out and publishing -most of them; but these reproductions are, as nearly as possible, -facsimiles of the originals as regards size, as well as everything else. It -is not every one who can afford to belong to the society, or who wishes to -handle the maps in large sheets. In the present form they are brought -within such handy compass that they will form a useful reference-book even -to those who already own the large-scale ones, and, to the many who do not, -they will be invaluable. - -The maps here given are the best examples of those extant, and are chosen -as each being representative of a special period. All but one have appeared -in the volumes of Sir Walter Besant's great and exhaustive "Survey of -London," for which they were prepared, and the publishers believe that in -offering them separately from the books in this handy form they are -consulting the interests of a very large number of readers. - -The exception above noted is the map known as Faithorne's, showing London -as it was before the Great Fire; this is added for purposes of comparison -with that of Ogilby, which shows London rebuilt afterwards. Besides the -maps properly so called, there are some smaller views of parts of London, -all of which are included in the Survey. - -The atlas does not presume in any way to be exhaustive, but is -representative of the different periods through which London passed, and -shows most strikingly the development of the City. - -I must acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received from Mr. George -Clinch, F.G.S., in the many difficulties which arose in the course of its -preparation. - - G. E. MITTON. - - * * * * * - - -PANORAMA OF LONDON - -BY ANTONY VAN DEN WYNGAERDE - -DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest representation of London that has come -down to our time. Accurately speaking, it is not a map, but a picture; but -as many of the old maps are more or less in the same category, we need not -exclude it on that account. Such topographical drawings are apt to be -misleading, owing to the immense difficulties of perspective--witness the -wretched samples hawked about the pavements at the present time. But, -considering the difficulties, this map of Wyngaerde's is wonderfully -accurate, and it has the advantage of being full of architectural details -which no true map could give. - -DESIGNER.--Of Wyngaerde himself little is known. He is supposed to have -been a Fleming, and may have come to England in the train of Philip II. of -Spain. He is known to have made other topographical drawings. The date of -the one here reproduced cannot be fixed with perfect certainty, but must -have been between 1543 and 1550. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is in the Sutherland Collection at the Bodleian -Library, Oxford, and it measures 10 feet by 17 inches, and is in seven -sheets. A tracing of it, made by N. Whittock, can be seen in the Crace -Collection, Prints Department, British Museum, or in the Guildhall Library. - -The present reproduction is from that made by the London Topographical -Society, which photographed the original. - -It is reduced, and is here placed in three sections, which overlap for -convenience in handling. - -I. - -DETAILS.--If we examine the first section, which is that to the extreme -west, we see the Abbey, very much as it is at present, with the exception -of Wren's western towers. On the site of the present Houses of Parliament -is the King's Palace at Westminster. It is impossible here to treat this in -detail, for if that were attempted for all the buildings in this atlas, -space would fail. A concise account of Westminster may be found in the book -of that name in the _Fascination of London_ Series. The chief point to note -in the palace is St. Stephen's Chapel, of which the crypt now alone -remains. About fifteen or twenty years previous to the date of this map -King Henry VIII. had claimed Whitehall from Wolsey, and transferred himself -to it from the old palace, which was growing ruinous. - -Across the river opposite to Westminster is Lambeth, standing in a grove of -trees. - -Beyond Westminster westward all is open ground, in the midst of which we -see St. James's Hospital, where is now St. James's Palace. Though still -marked "Hospital," it had already been annexed by the King. Where is now -Trafalgar Square we are shown in the map the King's Mews, built by Henry -VIII. for his hawks. Charing Cross is marked by the cross put up in memory -of Queen Eleanor. Along the river banks is a fringe of fine houses and -foliage. We may pick out one or two of these princely buildings--namely, -Durham House, Savoy Palace, and Somerset House (see _The Strand_ in the -above series). The church of St. Clement Danes is only separated from the -open country by a single row of houses. - -On the west side of the Fleet River is Bridewell, built by Henry VIII. in -1522 for the entertainment of the Emperor Charles V. Here, in 1529, Henry -and Katherine stayed while the legality of their marriage was being -disputed in Blackfriars across the Fleet. Then we come to Old St. Paul's, -still carrying its tall spire, destined so soon to topple down. Between it -and the river is one of the most famous of the old strongholds, Baynard's -Castle. On the extreme right of the map is the port of Queenhithe, which -can be seen to-day by any wanderer in the City. - -II. - -Turning the page, we see the old City as it was before the Fire, made up of -gable-ended wooden houses with overhanging stories, crowded close together, -and diversified by the numerous pinnacles and spires of the City churches, -many of which were never rebuilt. The embattled line of the wall hems the -City in on the north, and Cheapside cuts it laterally in a broad highway. -Almost in the centre of the picture is the Guildhall. The interest reaches -its culmination in the spectacle of Old London Bridge, with its irregular -houses, its archways, and its chapel. Note that the engraver has not -omitted to indicate the decaying heads on poles, a succession of which -adorned the bridge throughout the centuries (see _The Thames_ in above -series). - -On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see _Mediaeval London_, -vol. ii., p. 297). It has as neighbours Winchester and Rochester Houses, -the residences of the respective Bishops of those sees; while the proud -cupolas of Suffolk House--built _circa_ 1516, and later used as the -Mint--are clearly shown. The houses running from it up to the foreground of -the picture are beautifully delineated, and may be taken as models of -Elizabethan architecture; while the man with the harp and the horseman are -quite clearly enough drawn to show their period by the style of their -dress. From some point behind here must Wyngaerde have made his survey, as -it is manifestly impossible it could have been done from Suffolk House, as -stated by one authority. - -III. - -There are three objects so striking in this picture that attention is at -once claimed by them to the exclusion of all else--the Abbey of Bermondsey, -the Tower of London, and Greenwich Palace. In Bermondsey two Queens -died--Katherine, consort of Henry V., and Elizabeth, consort of Edward IV. -Only a year or two before this map was made had the grand old Abbey been -surrendered to the King (for a full account see _Mediaeval London_, vol. -ii., p. 288). - -The Tower, taken as a whole, is very much as we still know it; it is one of -the oldest remaining relics of the past. Note the gruesome place of -execution near by, and the guns and primitive cranes at work upon the -wharf. Just beyond it eastward rise the fretted pinnacles of St. -Katherine's by the Tower, on the spot now covered by St. Katherine's Docks. - -Stepney Church stands far away on the horizon, cut off from the City by an -ocean of green fields. - -Returning to the south side, we see Says Court, Deptford, between -Bermondsey and Greenwich. This was for long the home of John Evelyn, and -was ruinously treated by Peter the Great, who tenanted it during his -memorable stay in this country in 1698. (For Greenwich Palace or Placentia, -see _London in the Time of the Tudors_.) - - * * * * * - -CIVITAS LONDINUM - -DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest map of London known to be in existence, -for though Wyngaerde's survey preceded it in date, as we have seen, that is -a panorama and not a map proper. The present map, which is known as that of -Ralph Agas, itself has a good deal more of the panoramic nature than would -be allowed in a modern one, and is on that account all the more -interesting. The first to connect Agas's name with this map was Vertue -(1648-1756), and he stated its date to be 1560; but, as will be seen in the -description of the next plate, Vertue's claims to strict veracity have now -been shaken, therefore his testimony must be accepted with caution. - -DESIGNER.--Ralph Agas, land surveyor and engraver, died in 1621, and he is -described in the register as "an aged." Of course, it is possible that Agas -lived to the age of eighty-five or over, in which case he might not have -been too young to execute this work in 1560, and he himself says, in a -document dated 1606, which has been preserved, that he had been in work as -a surveyor for upwards of forty years. There are two branches into which -the enquiry now resolves itself. First, did Agas really make the map? And, -second, if he did, at what date did he make it? There is no conclusive -evidence on either hand. There is a survey of Oxford, similar in character, -signed by him, and though this is not dated, it is known to have been -completed in 1578, and published ten years later. On the original copy of -this, which is at the Bodleian, there are the following lines: - - "Neare tenn yeares paste the author made a doubt - Whether to print or lay this worke aside - Untill he firste had London plotted out - Which still he craves, although he be denied - He thinkes the Citie now in hiest pride, - And would make showe how it was beste beseene - The thirtieth yeare of our moste noble queene." - -ORIGINAL.--The two earliest known copies of the Agas map, which was first -engraved on wood, are both of the same issue; one is at the Pepysian -Library, Magdalen College, Oxford, and the other at the Guildhall. Edward -J. Francis made a careful reproduction of that at the Guildhall in 1874, -and it is from that our present plate is taken. It is, of course, reduced, -for the original is 6 feet and 1/2 inch long, by 2 feet 4-1/2 inches wide. -The notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, F.S.A., one of the -leading authorities on the question. He doubts Agas's connection with the -map, but thinks if he were the originator it could not have been done -before 1591. The arms in the corner on the two oldest extant maps are those -of James I., but as the arms on the royal barge in the river are those of -Elizabeth, it has been conjectured that the maps are themselves copies of a -later edition, wherein the arms were altered in conformity with -conventional opinion. The chief points which give data from internal -evidence are as follows: St. Paul's Cathedral is bereft of its spire. This -was struck by lightning in 1561, so the map must be subsequent to that -date. The Royal Exchange is apparently built. This was opened in 1570. -Northumberland House, built about 1605, has not been begun. We may take it, -therefore, generally that the original map, which was engraved on wooden -blocks, was made some time in the latter half of Elizabeth's reign, and it -is probable that it was done by Agas. - -DETAILS.--The map abounds in interesting detail. - -Beginning in the extreme left-hand lower corner, we see St. Margaret's -Church, St. Stephen's Chapel, and Westminster Hall. In the river are swans -of monstrous size. King Street, now merged in Whitehall, is very clearly -shown, also the two heavy gates barring the way. The most northern of -these, designed by Holbein, was called after him, and stood until the -middle of the eighteenth century. North of it, on the west, is the -tilting-ground; and stags browse in St. James's Park. Between the gates, on -the east, are the Privy Gardens, overlooked by the Palace of -Whitehall--most unpalatial in appearance. - -Piccadilly is "the Waye to Redinge," and Oxford Street "the Waye to -Uxbridge." Near Whitcomb Lane and the Haymarket women are spreading clothes -in the fields to dry, while cows as large as houses graze around. St. -Martin's Lane leads up to St. Giles, more particularly dealt with in the -description of the next plate. The irregular buildings of St. Mary -Rouncevall, a religious house, had not yet been taken down to make way for -Northumberland House, itself to be replaced by Northumberland Avenue. The -houses of great nobles, with their magnificent gardens stretching down to -the waterside, are still in evidence. North of the well-laid-out Covent -Garden, owned by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, are nothing but trees -and fields. Passing on quickly down the Strand, we find Temple Bar blocking -the way to the City. This is the old Temple Bar, replaced after the Great -Fire by the one much more familiar to us, which stood until 1878. A very -fine illustration of the old one is given in Sir Walter Besant's _London in -the Time of the Tudors_, p. 245. This book should certainly be studied by -anyone desirous of understanding the map. From Temple Bar past the back of -St. Clement's Church runs a broad road roughly corresponding with our new -Kingsway. Further eastward the Fleet River still flows strongly down from -its northern heights, crossed by many bridges, and just where it joins the -Thames is Bridewell Prison. Further along, on the other side, is Baynard's -Castle, and in front of it, in the river, the Queen's barge, with the royal -arms of Elizabeth in the centre. Some way back from Baynard's Castle a -bridge crosses a street, and is marked "The Wardrop." This was in very -truth the wardrobe or repository of the royal clothes! Drawing a line -northward for some way, we come to Smithfield, where tilting is represented -as in animated progress. Not far northward is St. John's, Clerkenwell, and -its neighbouring nunnery; to the west is the Charterhouse. Turning south -again, past St. Bartholomew's Church, we see the building of Christ's -Hospital, founded by Edward VI. This, it may be noted, is one of the -buildings erected since Wyngaerde's time. Then we come to St. Paul's, shorn -of its spire, with St. Gregory's Church, quite recognizable, in front of -it. There were continual edicts against building in the Tudor and Stuart -reigns, for it was feared London would grow out of hand; but, in spite of -this, houses have enormously increased since Wyngaerde made his survey. The -battlemented wall still encloses the City, but hamlets have sprung up -outside, notably at Cripplegate. - -But within the wall there are still some fine gardens and open spaces, one -of which remains to this day in Finsbury Circus. Many roads meet in the -heart of London, where now the Bank, Mansion House, and Royal Exchange -stare across at each other. It is difficult to make out from the medley of -buildings in the map if Gresham's first Royal Exchange is there or not, but -it seems to be so. This was opened in 1570 by the Queen in person. St. -Christopher le Stock's square tower may be seen on the ground now absorbed -by the Bank of England. - -Crossing over now to the Surrey side, we see conspicuously the two round -pens for bull- and bear-baiting respectively. There are many -pleasure-gardens, for the Surrey side was for long the recreation-ground of -the Londoner. On the river there are innumerable wherries, and below the -bridge at Billingsgate many ships cluster; one has even managed to get -above the bridge. Off the Steelyard and at the Tower are men and horses in -the water. This is a most interesting point. In those at the Tower it may -be clearly seen that the man is filling the water-casks on the animals' -backs with a ladle. This gives a glimpse into the discomforts endured by -our ancestors before water-pipes were laid on as a matter of course to all -houses. In the eighteenth-century reproductions of this map, oddly enough, -in one instance this detail has disappeared, and in the other it is turned -into a man driving cows into the water with a whip; thus doing away with -all its significance. Far to the north in Spitalfields men are practising -archery; while Aldgate, for long the home of Geoffrey Chaucer, is -conspicuous a little north of the Tower. - -As became a man living in days of the Reformation, Agas does not point out -the religious houses then falling into decay or occupied by laymen, yet -what a number of them must have been still in existence! Standing on the -White Tower, and looking north and to the right hand, there must have been -visible outside the wall St. Katherine's by the Tower, Eastminster, and the -Sorores Minores, whose name still remains in the Minories, here marked. -Within the City was Holy Trinity, close to Aldgate--of this a couple of -most rare and interesting plans and a full account may be found in -_Mediaeval London_, vol. ii.--and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also -Crutched Friars, Austin Friars, Grey Friars, and, in the extreme west, near -the Fleet, Blackfriars. Of these and many others full accounts may be found -in the volume indicated above. - - * * * * * - -THE PARISH OF ST. GILES IN THE FIELDS - -DESCRIPTION.--This plate, on being compared with the preceding one, shows a -strong general resemblance, with a considerable difference in detail. Also, -below are two churches, one of which is marked, "Present St. Giles's -Church, built anno 1734," which shows that the map was made not earlier -than that date. It is, in fact, a part of one of a set of -eighteenth-century maps based on that of Agas, and not only differing from -it in detail, but also differing slightly one from another. Some of these -are unsigned, and some are signed "G. Vertue," and were specifically -claimed by Vertue as having been made by him, and based upon Agas's map of -1560. Recently, however, doubts have been raised as to Vertue's share in -the transaction, and it is now very commonly believed that he did no more -than procure some maps, engraved on pewter and made in Holland, based on -that of Agas. These he altered a little in detail, and then claimed as his -own work. The original pewter plates are in possession of the Society of -Antiquaries, Burlington House. The present example differs in some small -particulars from these. Copies of the maps are not rare, and can be seen at -the British Museum and elsewhere. - -DETAILS.--The bit of London here represented is of exceptional interest. It -shows the corner of Tottenham Court Road when High Street and Broad Street, -St. Giles, were the main highway, long before the cutting through of New -Oxford Street. It shows, further, the descent of Holborn into the valley of -the Fleet, the "heavy hill" along which criminals were brought from Newgate -to the place of execution. It shows the site where the gallows stood for -some time, about 1413, before being definitely set up at Tyburn. Close to -this was the Bowl tavern, where the condemned man was allowed his last -draft of ale. The most interesting old hospital for lepers is clearly -shown. (See "Holborn," _Fascination of London_ Series.) - - * * * * * - -"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIAE REGNI METROPOLIS" - -BY HOEFNAGEL - -DESCRIPTION.--This map seems at first sight to be much less interesting -than those which have preceded it, but that is due chiefly to its small -size. The probable date is 1572, and even if otherwise unknown, it might -have been judged approximately by the costumes of the figures in the -foreground. It must have been contemporary with, or even earlier than, -Agas, with whose work it is interesting to compare it. This map was made by -Hoefnagel, and is taken from Braun and Hogenburg's work, _Civitates Orbis -Terrarum_, in which Braun wrote the text, while Hogenburg and Hoefnagel -engraved the maps. In the left-hand top corner are the arms of Elizabeth, -and in the right-hand corner those of the City. In the later editions the -delicately drawn figures in the foreground are omitted. In his notes on Old -London Maps in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, vol. vi., Mr. -W. H. Overall says it cannot be supposed that all the cities of the world -engraved in Braun and Hogenburg's work were freshly surveyed for the -purpose; and there are several points--such, for instance, as the inclusion -of the steeple of St. Paul's, destroyed in 1561--which point to the fact -that this version was probably taken from existing surveys. The original is -19 inches by 12-3/4 inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey -side are quite conspicuous, and so is the royal barge, in very much the -same position in the river as it is in Agas's map. Here is a detailed -account of it in Sir Walter Besant's own words: - -DETAILS.--"This is in some respects more exact than the better-known map -attributed to Agas. The streets, gardens, and fields are laid down with -greater precision, and there is no serious attempt to combine, as Agas -does, a picture or a panorama with a map. At the same time, the surveyor -has been unable to resist the fashion of his time to consider the map as -laid down from a bird's-eye view, so that he thinks it necessary to give -something of elevation. - -"I will take that part of the map which lies outside the walls. The -precinct of St. Katherine stands beside the Tower, with its chapel, court, -and gardens; there are a few houses near it, apparently farmhouses. The -convent of Eastminster had entirely vanished. Nothing indicates the site of -the nunnery in the Minories, yet there were ruins of these buildings -standing here till the end of the eighteenth century. Outside Bishopsgate -houses extended past St. Mary's Spital, some of whose buildings were still -apparently standing. On the west side St. Mary of Bethlehem stood, exactly -on the site of Liverpool Street Station, but not covering nearly so large -an area; it appears to have occupied a single court, and was probably what -we should now consider a very pretty little cottage, like St. Edmund's -Hall, Oxford. - -"Outside Cripplegate the houses begin again, leaving between the Lower -Moorfields dotted with ponds; there are houses lining the road outside -Aldersgate. The courts are still standing of St. Bartholomew's Priory, -Charterhouse, St. John's Priory, and the Clerkenwell nunnery; Smithfield is -surrounded with houses; Bridewell, with its two square courts, stands upon -the river bank; Fleet Street is irregular in shape, the houses being -nowhere in line; the courts of Whitefriars are still remaining. The Strand -has all its great houses facing the river; their backs open upon a broad -street, with a line of mean houses on the north side. On the south of the -river there is a line of houses on the High Street, a line of houses along -the river bank on either side, and another one running near Bermondsey -Abbey. - -"Within the walls we observe that some of the religious houses have quite -disappeared--Crutched Friars, for instance. There is a vacant space, which -is probably one of the courts of St. Helen's. The Priory of the Holy -Trinity preserves its courts, but there is no sign of the church. There are -still visible the courts and gardens of Austin Friars. There is still the -great court of the Grey Friars, but the buildings of Blackfriars seem to -have vanished entirely" (_London in the Time of the Tudors_, p. 185). - - * * * * * - -NORDEN'S MAPS OF LONDON AND WESTMINSTER - -DESIGNER.--Being on a very small scale, these maps are not so attractive as -some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born -about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of -delicate penmanship, which he turned to much account in map-making. He -projected a whole "Speculum Britanniae," but during his lifetime only -managed to publish books on two counties--namely, Middlesex and -Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other -counties in manuscript, and these have since been published. Norden was -appointed Surveyor of His Majesty's Woods in 1609. The engraving of the -Middlesex maps was done by Peter Van den Keere. - -ORIGINALS.--The reproductions are taken from those which appear in Norden's -_Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9-1/2 inches by 6-3/4 inches. The -wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated -by students of London cartography. - - * * * * * - -FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT - -DESCRIPTION.--This map generally goes by the name of Faithorne, the -engraver, but in reality the credit is due quite as much to Richard -Newcourt the elder (d. 1679), who was the draughtsman. It is selected for a -place here because, the date being 1658, it shows the City as it was before -the Fire, and therefore forms a supplement to the map of Ogilby which -follows, and shows the City as it was when rebuilt after the Fire. - -ENGRAVER.--William Faithorne the elder was born in 1616, and was an -engraver and portrait painter. He engraved numerous portraits, book-plates, -maps, and title-pages. Among his works are two large maps, entitled "Cities -of London and Westminster," and of "Virginia and Maryland." - -ORIGINAL.--The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are -in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliotheque Nationale of -Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British -Museum, and is on the same scale. - -DETAILS.--It will be noticed that the sheet chosen for inclusion in this -atlas shows very nearly the same area as the map of Ogilby which follows, -but does not go quite so far eastward as the Tower. The City wall is -clearly shown along the north side of the City, and the bastion near -Cripplegate stands out; the town ditch can be traced just beyond this -corner running southward. It was the curious and apparently meaningless -angle that the wall makes here which led Sir Walter Besant to suggest that -it may have been designed to exclude the ancient Roman amphitheatre, of -which the site is now lost (see _Early London_, p. 85). The Fleet River is -shown still open and crossed by bridges, of which there are no fewer than -five from Holborn to the mouth. That at Fleet Street shows, indeed, a -continuous line of houses. St. Paul's is very clearly delineated. The -figures within the City refer to the old churches, of which a list is given -below. Notice the gable roofs, still the chief style of domestic -architecture. The lines of the streets in the heart of the City remain -wonderfully the same to our own day. Outside the walls the City is -stretching out great arms into the country. There is one such arm made by -the continuous houses fringing Bishopsgate Street as far as the extreme -northern limit of the map. Then there is a gap between this and Moorgate -Street, including all the ground known at Moorfields and Finsbury. A few -scattered houses and some cultivated fields cover this space, and in one -corner is "Bedlame." - -A mass of houses lies westward, running on to the Charter House, northward -of which are open fields, and so to "Clarkin Well." - - THE SEVERALL CHVRCHES WITHIN THE WALLES OF LONDON DISTINGUISHED BY - SEUERALL FIGURES, BY WHICH ALLSOE THE EYE MAY PARTLY BE GUIDED TO THE - EMINENT STREETS IN OR NEERE WHICH THEY STAND, WHICH COULD NOT WELL BE - OTHERWISE DEMONSTRATED, IN REGARD OF THE SMALL SCALE BY WHICH THIS MAPP - IS DESCRIBED. - - 1. Albans in Woodstreet - 2. Alhallows Barkin nere Tower hill - 3. Alhallows in Bread street - 4. Alhallows y^e Greate in Thamas streete - 5. Alhallows the Lesse do. do. - 6. Alhallows in Hony lane nere Chepside - 7. Alhallows in Lumber street - 8. Alhallows Stayninge nere Fanshawes street - 9. Alhallows in y^e Wall nere Moorefeilds - 10. Alphage by y^e Wall nere Cripple gate - 11. Andrew Hubard by Philpot lan - 12. Andrew Vndershaft - 13. Andrew in y^e Wardrop aboue Pudle wharfe - 14. Ann at Alders gate - 15. Ann in Black friers - 16. Antholins in Watling streete - 17. Austins nere Paules church - 18. Bartholomew by y^e Exchange - 19. Bennet Finch - 20. Bennet Grace church neer Gracious streete - 21. Bennet at Paules wharfe - 22. Bennet Sherehogg nere Bucklers berry - 23. Bottolph at Billings-gate - 24. Christs Church by Newgate streete - 25. Christophers in Thredneedle streete - 26. Clements in East chepe - 27. Dennis back Church nere E[=a]shastreete - 28. Dunstanes in y^e East nere Tower street - 29. Edmonds in Lumber streete - 30. Ethelborough in Bishops gate street - 31. Faith under Paules - 32. Foster in Foster lane nere Chepside - 65. French Church in Third needle street - 33. Gabriell in Fanshawes streete - 34. Georges in Bottolph lane - 35. Gregories by Paules - 36. Hellins nere Bishops gate - 37. Iames Dukes place nere Aldgat - 38. Iames Garlick hill by Bow lane - 39. Iohn Baptist nere Dow gate street - 40. Iohn Euangelist nere Friday street - 41. Iohn Zachary nere Foster lane - 42. Katherin Coleman nere Fanshawes stret - 43. Katherin Cree church nere Aldgate - 44. Lawrence Iury nere Guild hall - 45. Lawrence Poultney nere Eastchepe - 46. Leonarde in East-chepe - 47. Leonarde in Foster lane - 48. Magnus by the Bridge - 49. Margrett in Lothberry - 50. Margrett Moses next Friday street - 51. Margrett in new Fishstreete - 52. Margrett in Rood lane - 53. Mary Abchurch Lane - 54. Mary Aldermanberry - 55. Mary Aldermary nere Watling streete - 56. Mary le Bow in Chepside - 57. Mary Bothaw in Cannon streete - 58. Mary Cole church in Chepside - 59. Mary Hill aboue Billings gate - 60. Mary Mounthaw aboue Broken warfe - 61. Mary Somersett nere Broken wharfe - 62. Mary Staynings nere Alders gate - 63. Mary Woollchurch nere y^e Stocks - 64. Mary Woollnoth in Lumber streete - 66. Martins Iremonger lane nere Chepside - 67. Martins with^{in} Ludgate - 68. Martins Orgars nere Eastcheape - 69. Martins Outwitch next Bishopsgate stret - 70. Martins Vintree neere y^e 3 Cranes - 71. Mathews in Friday Street - 72. Maudlins milke str[=e]t neere Chepside - 73. Maudlins in Old Fishstreete - 74. Michaell Bashaw behind Guildhall - 75. Michaell in Cornhill - 76. Michaell Crooked Lane neere N Fish'trete - 77. Michaell att Quene Hith - 78. Michaell y^e Querne vper end of Chepside - 79. Michaell Royall att Colledge Hill - 80. Michaell in Woodstreet nere Chepside - 81. Mildred in Bred streete nere Chepside - 82. Mildred in the Poultry - 83. Nicholas Acons Nicholas lane nere L[=u]berstreet - 84. Nicholas Cole Abby in old Fishstreet - 85. Nicholas Olaves in Breadstreet - 86. Olaues in Hart street nere Cruched friers - 87. Olaues in old Iury at y^e lower end of Chepside - 88. Olaues in Silver streete - 89. Pancras in Soper lane nere Bucklerbery - 90. Peters nere Chepside - 91. Peters in Cornehill - 92. Peters nere Paules wharfe - 93. Peters y^e poore nere Brod streete - 94. Steven in Coleman streete nere Moregate - 95. Steven in Wallbrooke - 96. Swithens in Ca[=n]on streete by London stone - 97. Thomas y^e Apostle - 98. Trinitie Church aboue Quene Hith - 99. Dutch Church nere Brodstreete - - * * * * * - -OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON - -DESCRIPTION.--This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have -yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and -the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist -in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire. - -DESIGNER.--John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention -to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment -as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the -year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William -Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map -was done by Hollar. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in -twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen -in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two -examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional -sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London -and Middlesex Archaeological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms -of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas -Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner. - -DETAILS.--Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, -bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John -Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse -bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery -Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their -equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury -Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that -the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for -their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is -new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, -there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward -innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day -behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of -their existence could possibly find them. - -On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of -the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of -the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. -Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor -and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the -receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up -a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, -and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and -another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great -thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were -made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only -finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in -1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with -the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the -improvements here may be considered complete. - -To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; -their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. -Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make -way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is -covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main -highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There -was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and -the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the -smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, -and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a -palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. -to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of -the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The -site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the -rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with -remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were -camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to -the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed -since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt -out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of -the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone -also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards -quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant -says: - -"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets -and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before -the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the -same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between -Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity -Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd -more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire -London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at -the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps--'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, -m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf -Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive -to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running -narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. -There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 -yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the -standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a -spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (_London in -the Time of the Stuarts_, p. 280). - -THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN -THE BRITISH MUSEUM - -We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes -and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, -and 210 Yards bearing Name. - -The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. -The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and -Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the -Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in -the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. -The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with -Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to -Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and -sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left -Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, -Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. -faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words -at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to -the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every -Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, -Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the -Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane. - -THE SEVERAL MARKS AND NAMES OF THE WARDS, PARISHES, AND LIBERTIES - - WARDS - - A Faringdon Without - B Faringdon Within - C Bainard-Castle - D Bread-Street - E Queen-Hith - F Cordwainers - G Walbrook - H Vintry - I Dowgate - K Broad-Street - L Cornhil - M Cheap - N Bassishaw - O Coleman-Street - P Bishopsgate - Q Cripplegate - T Tower - R Aldersgate - S Billingsgate - T Lime-Street - U Langborn - W Portsoken - X Aldgate - Y Candlewick - Z Bridg - - PARISHES AND LIBERTIES - - 1. St. James Clerkenwel - 2. St. Giles Cripple-Gate - 3. St. Leonard Shoreditch - 4. Norton-Folgate Liberty - 5. St. Botolph Bishopsgate - 6. Stepney - 7. St. Stephen Coleman Street - 8. Alhallows on the Wall - 9. St. Andrew Holborn - 10. St. Giles in the Fields - 11. St. Sepulchers - 12. St. Mary Cole-Church - 13. St. Botolph Aldersgate - 14. St. Alphage - 15. St. Alban Wood Street - 16. St. Olave Silver Street - 17. St. Michael Bassishaw - 18. Christ Church - 19. St. Anne Aldersgate - 20. St. Mary Staining - 21. St. Mary Aldermanbury - 22. St. Olave Jewry - 23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane - 24. St. Mildred Poultry - 25. St. Bennet Sherehog - 26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane - 27. St. Laurence Jewry - 28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street - 29. Alhallows Hony Lane - 30. St. Mary le Bow - 31. St. Peter Cheap - 32. St. Michael Wood Street - 33. St. John Zachary - 34. St. Martins Liberty - 35. St. Leonard Foster Lane - 36. St. Vedast, alias Foster - 37. St. Michael Quern - 38. St. John Evangelist - 39. St. Mathew Friday Street - 40. St. Margaret Lothbury - 41. St. Bartholemew Exchange - 42. St. Christophers - 43. St. Mary Woolnoth - 44. St. Mary Woolchurch - 45. St. Michael Cornhil - 46. St. Bennet Fink - 47. St. Peter Poor - 48. St. Peter Cornhil - 49. St. Martin Outwich - 50. St. Hellens - 51. St. Ethelborough - 52. St. Andrew Undershaft - 53. Alhallows Lumbard Street - 54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street - 55. St. Dionis Back-Church - 56. St. Katherine Cree-Church - 57. St. James Dukes Place - 58. St. Katherine Coleman - 59. St. Olave Hart Street - 60. St. Botolph Aldgate - 61. St. Mary White Chapel - 62. Trinity Minories - 63. St. Bartholemew the Great - 64. Alhallows Staining - 65. Alhallows Barking - 66. St. Mary Abchurch - 67. St. Nicholas Accorn - 68. St. Clement East Cheap - 69. St. Bennet Grace-Church - 70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch - 71. St. Margaret Pattons - 72. St. Andrew Hubbart - 73. Dutchy Liberty - 74. St. Clement Danes - 75. Rolls Liberty - 76. St. Dunstan in the West - 77. White Fryers Precinct - 78. St. Bridget - 79. Bridewel Precinct - 80. St. Anne Black-Fryers - 81. St. Martin's Ludgate - 82. St. Gregories - 83. St. Andrew Wardrobe - 84. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf - 85. St. Peter - 86. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street - 87. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby - 88. St. Austine - 89. St. Margaret Moses - 90. Alhallows Bread-Street - 91. St. Mildred Bread-Street - 92. St. Nicholas Olave - 93. St. Mary Mounthaw - 94. St. Mary Somerset - 95. St. Michael Queen Hith - 96. Trinity - 97. St. Mary Aldermary - 98. St. Thomas Apostles - 99. St. Michael Royal - 100. St. James Garlick-Hith - 101. St. Martin Vintry - 102. St. Antholin's - 103. St. John Baptist - 104. St. Stephen Walbrook - 105. St. Swithin - 106. St. Mary Bothaw - 107. Alhallows the Great - 108. St. Faith's - 109. St. Leonard East Cheap - 110. St. Laurence Poultney - 111. St. Martin Orgar's - 112. Little Alhallows - 113. St. Michael Crooked Lane - 114. St. Magnus at the Bridg - 115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street - 116. St. George Botolph Lane - 117. St. Botolph Billingsgate - 118. St. Mary Hill - 119. St. Dunstans in the East - 120. Little St. Bartholemews - 121. Tower Liberty - 122. St. Katherines - - LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 - COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY - The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on - the Map - - 7-14. African House, Throgmorton Street, B55 - 2-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7 - 7-18. Aldgate - 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church - 9-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church - 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great - 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little - 7-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] - 9-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church - 5-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church - 9-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane - 9-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 - 5-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 - 11-1. Arundel House - - 5-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 - 6-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 - 6-3. Barnard's Inn - 6-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 - 8-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 - 3-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 - 6-14. Bethlehem, New - 6-15. Bishops Gate - 6-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 - 6-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 - 10-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 - 7-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 - 7-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 - 6-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 - 9-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 - 6-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 - 8-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 - 9-6. Bridewell - 9-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane - 3-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 - 6-2. Brook House - 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 - 6-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 - 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39 - - 9-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 - 3-6. Charter House - 7-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street - 7-7. Christ Hospital - 7-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 - 9-1. Clements Inn - 6-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 - 9-3. Clifford's Inn - 9-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 - 6-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 - 6-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 - 9-9. Cordwainers Hall - 5-10. Cripple Gate - 5-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 - 7-2. Cursitor's Office - 11-17. Custome house - 9-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21 - - 6-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 - 5-16. Devonshire House, A73 - 9-9. Doctors Commons, C10 - 3-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 - 7-14. Drapers Hall, B57 - 6-14. Dutch Church - 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street - - 8-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 - 6-4. Ely House - 10-1. Essex House - 6-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60 - - 10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] - 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street - 9-6. Fleet Bridg - 8-5. Fleet [Prison] - 7-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 - 7-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 - 7-14. French Church, B62 - 6-3. Furnival's Inn - - 6-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 - 9-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 - 5-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 - 3-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 - 7-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 - 5-1. Gray's Inn - 7-15. Gresham Colledge - 3-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 - 8-12. Grocers Hall, B53 - 7-11. Guild Hall - - 7-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 - 7-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 - 4-6. Hicks's Hall - 7-5. Holborn Bridge - ---- [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] - ---- [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories] - - 9-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane - 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 - 8-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 - 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37 - - 6-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 - 9-7. King's Printing House, C3 - - 5-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 - 7-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 - 8-15. Leaden Hall Market - 6-16. Leather-Sellers Hall - 7-2. Lincoln's Inn - 10-1. Lions Inne - 11-14. London Bridg - 5-8. London House, A57 - 9-7. Ludgate - 9-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane) - - 8-11. Mercer's Chapel - 8-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall - 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 - 9-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane - 8-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market - ---- [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"] - - 9-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26 - 10-1. New Inn - 2-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green - 2-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6 - 7-6. Newgate - 8-7. Newgate Market - - 10-10. Painters Stainers Hall - 8-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54 - 6-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22 - 8-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62 - 7-7. Physicians College, B37 - 6-14. Pinner's Hall, B21 - 6-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6 - 6-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59 - 8-12. Poultry Compter, B83 - 9-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6 - - 8-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75 - 7-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91 - 8-14. Royal Exchange - - 7-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41 - 9-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23 - 6-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93 - 9-6. Scotch Hall, C2 - 6-9. Scriveners Hall - 9-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97 - 9-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street - 8-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly - 9-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7 - 8-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71 - 5-11. Sion College, A61 - 9-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72 - 10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33 - 5-6. Smithfield Penns - 11-1. Somerset House - 6-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church - 5-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall - 6-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church - 10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, - between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] - 8-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66 - 10-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church - 6-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church - 9-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church - 9-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row - 8-9. St. Austine's Church - 5-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great - 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little - 8-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church - 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital - 8-13. St. Bennet Fink Church - 8-15. St. Bennet Grace Church - 10-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church - 8-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church - 9-6. St. Bridget's Church - 6-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church - 6-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church - 11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames - Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] - 5-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church - 8-13. St. Christophers Church - 10-1. St. Clement Danes Church - 9-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church - 9-3. St. Dunstan's Church - 10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church - 9-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church - 6-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. - of Little St. Hellens] - 9-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's] - 9-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of - Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane] - 10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40 - 4-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church - 9-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's] - 7-16. St. Hellen's Church - 7-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place - 10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church - 9-12. St. John Baptist Church - 9-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at - the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north] - 6-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane - 8-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church - 8-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68 - 10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church - 7-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church - 10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church - 7-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church - 11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59 - 9-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church - 6-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church - 9-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church - 9-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church - 6-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old - Jewry] - 10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43 - 8-10. St. Mary le Bow Church - 7-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony - lane Market] - 10-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church - 10-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church - 10-9. St. Mary Somerset Church - 6-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane - 8-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market] - 8-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head - Alley] - 7-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church - 9-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of - Basing Lane] - 9-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church - 10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the - Monument] - 7-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining - the west end of St. Olave Jewry] - 8-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church - 10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church - 7-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner - of Thread Needle Street] - 10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church - 8-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church - 9-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church - 8-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84 - 6-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church - 8-14. St. Michael Cornhil - 10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church - 10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church - 7-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of - Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street] - 9-11. St. Michael Royal Church - 7-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45 - 9-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church - 9-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old - Fish St. Hill) - 9-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near - middle of W. side] - 9-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27 - 7-12. St. Olave Jewry Church - 5-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church - 8-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church - 9-8. St. Paul's Cathedral - 9-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5 - 11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London - 7-10. St. Peter Cheap Church - 6-14. St. Peter Poor Church - 10-8. St. Peter's Church - 8-14. St. Peter's Cornhil - 7-6. St. Sephlcher's Church - 6-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56 - 9-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church - 10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street - 9-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles - 7-9. St. Vedast Church, B40 - 6-2. Staple Inn - 8-7. Stationers Hall - 6-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89 - 6-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11 - - 9-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22 - 10-3. Temple Church - 5-9. Thanet House, A58 - 6-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86 - 11-19. Tower, The - ---- Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, - which see] - 10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45 - 8-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70 - 9-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4 - - 11-11. Vintonners Hall - 8-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85 - - 10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38 - 6-1. Warwick House - 11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28 - 11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57 - 7-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43 - 6-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13 - 8-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53 - 10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, _m_15 - 7-10. Wood Street Compter, B46 - 9-12. Wool Church Market - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN 1741-45 - -BY JOHN ROCQUE - -DESCRIPTION.--In some ways this map is the most interesting of the whole -series, for it comes nearest to our own times, and yet by studying it we -can infer the remarkable changes that have taken place within the memory of -man. It is much more comprehensive than Ogilby's, including the whole of -the outlying suburbs, and even going as far as Edgware and Tottenham, which -are still no part even of Greater London. - -DESIGNER.--Very little is known about John Rocque. He was probably a native -of France, but was residing in England about 1750. He engraved maps and a -few views from his own designs. - -ORIGINAL.--The original is in twenty-four sheets, and is 13 feet in length -and 6-3/4 feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which -is here presented is the central part of this, not reduced, but on the same -scale. Its interest is greatly increased by the fact that the names are -printed on the map, and are not given separately as in other instances. To -facilitate this Rocque has marked the houses bordering streets in white, -and only blocked them in black where they line market-gardens and other -parts indicated by a light surface. The map is a model of care and -comprehensive detail. - -DETAIL.--Beginning in the lower left-hand corner, we have the Royal -Hospital, with its neatly-laid-out grounds. Close to it the Westbourne, -whose irregular line determined the boundaries of Chelsea, falls into the -Thames; higher up its course is through the Five Fields, now one of the -most wealthy and popular districts of London--namely, Belgravia. St. -George's Hospital is already standing at Hyde Park Corner, and a fringe of -houses lines the road to Knightsbridge. Westminster is still largely open -in the west by Tothill Fields, scene of so many tournaments and jousts, and -the curve of the river encloses innumerable market-gardens. In St. James's -Park the stiff canal, memento of Dutch influence, has not yet been -transformed into the more attractive ornamental water. Carlton House -Terrace has not come into existence. Here Carlton House, which does not -appear to be marked, was standing, and was occupied by Frederick, Prince of -Wales, father of George III. North of this, with the omission of Regent -Street, made in 1813-20, the streets are pretty much as we know them. It is -beyond Oxford Street northward that the difference is striking. This -district was only just being built upon, and the well-laid-out streets soon -run off into open country. "Marybone" Gardens, a favourite tea-garden, and -the church, and a few houses, form a little hamlet just connected with the -other part of London by a single street, and further westward, north of -Berkeley Square, are fields. In the midst of these is the "Yorkshire -Stingo," the public-house from which the first omnibus in the Metropolis -began to run in 1829. The Tyburn Gallows still had much work to do; it was -fifty years later that the last execution took place here. Just within the -Hyde Park is the gruesome record, "where soldiers are shot." If we follow -Oxford Street eastward to Tottenham Court Road, we find that it is only -connected with High Holborn by the curve through High and Broad Streets at -St. Giles's. To the south is the star of Seven Dials, and all the district -so completely altered by the cutting through of Charing Cross Road, and -then Shaftesbury Avenue in modern times. To the north, Montagu House -occupies the site the British Museum was destined to fill; it was purchased -by the Government in 1753, and pulled down about a hundred years later. -Bedford House, the town residence of the Dukes of Bedford, stood until -1800. Behind, Lamb's Conduit Fields run up to Battle Bridge, where one of -the early British battles was fought; this is now the site of King's Cross -Station. Not far off Bagnigge Wells and Sadler's Wells are in the heyday of -their prosperity. The Fleet or River of Wells may be traced passing through -the former, but further south it is covered in, and does not appear in the -open again until below Fleet Bridge, when it is ignominiously called Fleet -Ditch. - -Thames side is still fringed with "stairs to take water at" leading from -the great houses on the margin, and there is as yet no embankment. -Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, however, afford easy access to the -southern side. The labyrinth of the City is not seriously different from -that of the present day except in the omission of Cannon Street. Bethlehem -Hospital is still conspicuous, and the City wall has vanished strangely. -What we now call Finsbury Square is marked as Upper Moorfields. We have to -go far before we clear the houses to the east. Stepney and Bethnal Green -are fairly thickly populated, and though surrounded by open ground, are -connected by houses all the way from the City. But in the bend of the river -by Wapping the chief area is occupied by market-gardens. Crossing over to -the other side, we find the market-gardens very prominent; as London grows -larger she thrusts her sources of supply further from her. The central -ganglion of the Borough Road and its ray-like connections are marked out. -At one end is the "King's Bench," which was close to the Marshalsea, -associated with "Little Dorrit." The Marshalsea itself is not marked. -Dickens was yet to come, and it was only through his writings that it -gained a sentimental interest. A great part of the Borough is very marshy -indeed, and we note frequent ponds. The "Dog and Duck," otherwise "St. -George's Spaw," is almost surrounded by them. - -To sum up in Sir Walter Besant's words: - -"London, then, in the eighteenth century consisted first of the City, -nearly the whole of which had been rebuilt after the Fire, only a small -portion in the east and north containing the older buildings; a workmen's -quarter at Whitechapel; a lawyer's quarter from Gray's Inn to the Temple, -both inclusive; a quarter north of the Strand occupied by coffee-houses, -taverns, theatres, a great market, and the people belonging to these -places; an aristocratic quarter lying east of Hyde Park; and Westminster, -with its Houses of Parliament, its Abbey, and the worst slums in the whole -City. On the other side of the river, between London Bridge and St. -George's, was a busy High Street with streets to right and left; the river -bank was lined with houses from Paris Gardens to Rotherhithe; there were -streets at the back of St. Thomas's and Guy's; Lambeth Marsh lay in open -fields, and gardens intersected by sluggish streams and ditches; and -Rotherhithe Marsh lay equally open in meadows and gardens, with ponds and -ditches in the east.... - -"From any part of London it was possible to get into the country in a -quarter of an hour. One realizes the rural surroundings of the City by -considering that north of Gray's Inn was open country with fields; that -Queen Square, Bloomsbury, had its north side left purposely open in order -that the residents might enjoy the view of the Highgate and Hampstead -Hills. On the south side of the river Camberwell was a leafy grove; Herne -Hill was a park set with stately trees; Denmark Hill was a wooded wild; the -hanging woods of Penge and Norwood were as lovely as those that one can now -see at Cliveden or on the banks of the Wye" (_London in the Eighteenth -Century_, pp. 77-79). - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 1. The Palace of Westminster. - 2. St. Stephen's Chapel. - 3. Westminster Hall. - 4. Westminster Abbey. - 5. Old Palace Yard. - 6. The Clock Tower. - 7. The Gate House. - 8. St. Margaret's Church. - 9. The King's Stairs. - 10. Star Chamber. - 11. Lambeth Palace. - 12. Stangate Horse Ferry. - 13. St. James's Hospital. - 14. St. James's. - 15. Whitehall. - 16. Holbein's Gate. - 17. Scotland Yard. - 18. Charing Cross. - 19. King's Mews. - 20. St. Martin's Church. - 21. St. Mary's Hospital. - 22. St. Giles's Church. - 23. Convent Garden. - 24. The Strand. - 25. York House. - 26. Durham House. - 27. Savoy Palace. - 28. Somerset Place. - 29. St. Mary Le Strand. - 30. St. Clement's Dane. - 31. Lincoln's Inn. - 32. Lincoln's Inn Fields. - 33. Gray's Inn. - 34. Ely House. - 35. Fetter Lane. - 36. Rolls Place. - 37. St. Dunstan's Church. - 38. The Temple Church. - 39. The Temple. - 40. Fleet Street. - 41. Grey Friars. - 42. Palace of Bridewell. - 43. St. Bride's. - 44. St. Andrew's Church. - 45. St. Sepulchre's Church. - 46. Fleet Ditch. - 47. St. John's Hospital. - 48. Smithfield. - 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. - 50. Newgate. - 51. Ludgate. - 52. Blackfriars. - 53. The Wardrobe. - 54. Baynard Castle. - 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. - 56. St. Paul's Cross. - 57. St. Bartholomew's the Great. - 58. Grey Friars. - 59. Queen Hythe. - 64. The Standard. - 66. Rochester House. - 69. The Stews. - 128. Bank Side. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234 and 350._ - - _pp. 218, 219._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 47. St. John's Hospital. - 48. Smithfield. - 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. - 54. Baynard Castle. - 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. - 58. Grey Friars. - 59. Queen Hythe. - 60. St. Martin's le Grand. - 61. Aldersgate. - 62. Jews' Cemetery. - 63. Cheapside. - 64. The Standard. - 65. Cross, Cheapside. - 66. Rochester House. - 67. Winchester House. - 68. St. Mary's Overie. - 70. St. Thomas's Hospital. - 71. St. George's Church. - 72. Kent Road. - 73. Suffolk House. - 74. St. Giles's, Cripplegate. - 75. Cripplegate. - 76. The Barbican. - 77. St. Albans, Wood Street. - 78. Bow Church. - 79. Broken Wharf. - 80. The Cranes. - 81. The Steel Yard. - 82. Cold Harbour. - 83. Fishmongers' Hall. - 84. St. Thomas of Acons. - 85. Guildhall. - 86. Moorgate. - 87. Austin Friars. - 88. Bishopsgate. - 89. Church of St. Magnus. - 90. London Bridge. - 91. St. Thomas's Chapel. - 92. Bridge House. - 93. St. Olave's Church. - 94. St. Agnes's le Clare. - 95. Hoxton. - 96. St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. - 97. Leadenhall. - 98. Botolph Wharf. - 99. Billingsgate. - 100. St. Mary Spittal. - 101. Walls of London. - 107. High Street, Southwark. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 218 and 350._ - - _pp. 234-235._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - - 100. St. Mary Spittal. - 102. Houndsditch. - 103. Crutched Friars. - 104. Priory of Holy Trinity. - 105. Aldgate. - 106. St. Botolph. Aldgate. - 107. The Minories. - 108. The Postern Gate. - 109. Great Tower Hill. - 110. Place of Execution. - 111. Allhallow's Church, Barking. - 112. The Custom House. - 113. Tower of London. - 114. The White Tower. - 115. Traitors' Gate. - 116. Little Tower Hill. - 117. East Smithfield. - 118. Stepney. - 119. St. Catherine's Church. - 120. St. Catherine's Dock. - 121. St. Catherine's Hospital. - 122. Isle of Dogs. - 123. Monastery of Bermondsey. - 124. Says Court, Deptford. - 125. Palace of Placentia. - 126. Greenwich. - -From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark in 1543." By -Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library. -Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234, 235._ - - _pp. 350. 351._ - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS. A REPRODUCTION, REDUCED, OF THE MAP BY -RALPH AGAS, CIRCA 1580. - -[Illustration] - -This antient and famous City of London, was first founded by _Brute_ the -Trojan, in the year of the World two thousand, eight hundred thirty & two, -and before the Nativity of our Saviour Christ, one thousand, one hundred, -and 30. So that since the first building, it is 2 thousand 6 hundred 60 & 3 -years. And afterward was repaired & enlarged by King _Lud_, but at this -present so flourisheth, that it containeth in length from the East to the -West about 3. English miles, from the North to the South about 2. English -miles. It is also so plentifully peopled, that it is divided into a hundred -and 22 Parishes within the Liberties, besides 16 Parishes that are in the -suburbs. It is planted on a very good soyle: for on the one side it is -compassed with corne & pasture ground, and on the other side it is inclosed -with the river of Thames, which not only aboundeth in allkind of fresh -water-fish, but also is so navigable, that it as well bringeth abundance of -commoditities as the plentifulnesse of our Contry doth yeild us:which both -augments the fame thereof abroad, and also increaseth the riches thereof at -hom; so that as it is head and chief City ofthe whole Realm, so is it -likewise head and chief Chamber of the whole Realm, as well for our outward -as inward commoditites. God prosper it at his pleasure. Amen. - - New Troy my name, when firts my fame begun - By Trajon Brute: who then me placed here: - On fruitfull soyle, where pleasant Thames doth run - Sith Lud my Lord, my King and Lover dear, - Encreast my boundes and London (far that rings - Through Regions large) he called then my name - How famous since (I stately seat of Kings) - Have flourish'd aye: let others that proclaim. - And let me joy thus happy still to see - This vertuous Peer my Sovereign King to be. - -_From a facsimile reproduction of the original map by Edward J. Francis, in -the possession of John C. Francis._ - -_MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS," BY SIR WALTER BESANT. -PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, 1904_ - - * * * * * - -THE PARISH OF St. Giles in the Fields, LONDON. - -[Illustration] - -REFERENCES. - -_1. The first ST. GILES'S CHURCH._ - -_2. Remains of the Walls, antiently enclosing the Hospital precincts._ - -_3. Site of the Gallows and afterwards of the Pound_ - -_4. Way to Uxbridge now OXFORD ST._ - -_5._ ELDE-STRATE, _since called HOG-LANE_. - -_6._ LE-LANE, _now MONMOUTH ST._ - -_7. Site of the_ SEVEN DIALS, _formerly called COCK and PYE FIELDS_. - -_8._ ELM CLOSE _since called LONG-ACRE_. - -_9. Site of_ LINCOLNS-INN-FIELDS _formerly called FICKETS-FIELDS_. - -A VIEW _of part of the North-west Suburbs_ OF LONDON, _as they appeared, -anno 1570. Including the whole of the parish of ST. GILES in the FIELDS and -its immediate Neighbourhood, its_ PAROCHIAL CHURCHES _erected at different -periods &c._ - -_The part of the North West Suburbs of London, since called Saint Giles's -was about the time of the Norman Conquest an un-built tract of country, or -but thinly scattered with habitations.--The parish derived its name if not -its origin from the ancient Hospital for Lepers, which was built on the -site of the present church by MATILDA queen of King Henry I and dedicated -to Saint Giles: before which time there had been only a small Chapel or -Oratory on the spot.--It is described in old records as abounding with -gardens and dwellings in the flourishing times of Saint Giles's Hospital, -but declined in population and buildings after the suppression of that -establishment and remained but an inconsiderable village till the end of -the reign of Elizabeth, after which period it was rapidly built on and -became distinguished for the number and rank of its inhabitants. The great -increase of St. Giles's Parish occasioned the separation of St. Georges -Bloomsbury Parish from it anno 1734.--The above view (which is partly -supplied by the great Plan of London by Ralph Aggas, and partly from -authorities furnished by parochial documents) was taken anno 1570._ - -The Seal of the Antient Hospital of St. Giles. - - _pp. 190, 191._ - - * * * * * - -LONDINIUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIAE REGNI METROPOLIS. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -LONDON - -[Illustration] - -LONDON, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] - - * * * * * - -WESTMINSTER - -[Illustration] - -WESTMINSTER, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] - - * * * * * - -LONDON - -[Illustration] - -CITY OF LONDON, 1658. BY FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT.] - - * * * * * - -LONDON IN 1741-5. BY JOHN ROCQUE. - -[Illustration] - -MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY" BY SIR WALTER BESANT. -PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, LONDON.] - - * * * * * - -A LARGE AND ACCURATE MAP OF THE CITY OF LONDON - -Ichnographically Describing all the Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, Yards, -Churches, Halls and Houses, &c. Actually Surveyed and Delineated. By JOHN -OGILBY Esq; His Majesties Cosmographer. - -[Illustration] - -_For explanations of the references &c. on map see pp 356-396 of the book_ - -MAP ACCOMPANYING "_LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE STUARTS_" BY SIR WALTER -BESANT. PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON 1903] - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAPS OF OLD LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 40274.txt or 40274.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/2/7/40274/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Keith Edkins and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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