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diff --git a/40274-0.txt b/40274-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5244c5d --- /dev/null +++ b/40274-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1646 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40274 *** + +MAPS + +OF OLD LONDON + + I. WYNGAERDE (IN THREE SECTIONS) + II. AGAS + III. SECTION OF AGAS + IV. HOEFNAGEL + V. NORDEN LONDON + VI. NORDEN WESTMINSTER + VII. FAITHORNE + VIII. OGILBY + IX. ROCQUE + + LONDON + ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK + 1908 + + EDWARD STANFORD, + GEOGRAPHER TO THE KING, + 12, 13, and 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. + + * * * * * + + +EDITOR'S NOTE + +An atlas of Old London maps, showing the growth of the City throughout +successive centuries, is now issued for the first time. Up to a recent date +the maps here represented had not been reproduced in any form, and the +originals were beyond the reach of all but the few. The London +Topographical Society has done admirable work in hunting out and publishing +most of them; but these reproductions are, as nearly as possible, +facsimiles of the originals as regards size, as well as everything else. It +is not every one who can afford to belong to the society, or who wishes to +handle the maps in large sheets. In the present form they are brought +within such handy compass that they will form a useful reference-book even +to those who already own the large-scale ones, and, to the many who do not, +they will be invaluable. + +The maps here given are the best examples of those extant, and are chosen +as each being representative of a special period. All but one have appeared +in the volumes of Sir Walter Besant's great and exhaustive "Survey of +London," for which they were prepared, and the publishers believe that in +offering them separately from the books in this handy form they are +consulting the interests of a very large number of readers. + +The exception above noted is the map known as Faithorne's, showing London +as it was before the Great Fire; this is added for purposes of comparison +with that of Ogilby, which shows London rebuilt afterwards. Besides the +maps properly so called, there are some smaller views of parts of London, +all of which are included in the Survey. + +The atlas does not presume in any way to be exhaustive, but is +representative of the different periods through which London passed, and +shows most strikingly the development of the City. + +I must acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received from Mr. George +Clinch, F.G.S., in the many difficulties which arose in the course of its +preparation. + + G. E. MITTON. + + * * * * * + + +PANORAMA OF LONDON + +BY ANTONY VAN DEN WYNGAERDE + +DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest representation of London that has come +down to our time. Accurately speaking, it is not a map, but a picture; but +as many of the old maps are more or less in the same category, we need not +exclude it on that account. Such topographical drawings are apt to be +misleading, owing to the immense difficulties of perspective--witness the +wretched samples hawked about the pavements at the present time. But, +considering the difficulties, this map of Wyngaerde's is wonderfully +accurate, and it has the advantage of being full of architectural details +which no true map could give. + +DESIGNER.--Of Wyngaerde himself little is known. He is supposed to have +been a Fleming, and may have come to England in the train of Philip II. of +Spain. He is known to have made other topographical drawings. The date of +the one here reproduced cannot be fixed with perfect certainty, but must +have been between 1543 and 1550. + +ORIGINAL.--The original is in the Sutherland Collection at the Bodleian +Library, Oxford, and it measures 10 feet by 17 inches, and is in seven +sheets. A tracing of it, made by N. Whittock, can be seen in the Crace +Collection, Prints Department, British Museum, or in the Guildhall Library. + +The present reproduction is from that made by the London Topographical +Society, which photographed the original. + +It is reduced, and is here placed in three sections, which overlap for +convenience in handling. + +I. + +DETAILS.--If we examine the first section, which is that to the extreme +west, we see the Abbey, very much as it is at present, with the exception +of Wren's western towers. On the site of the present Houses of Parliament +is the King's Palace at Westminster. It is impossible here to treat this in +detail, for if that were attempted for all the buildings in this atlas, +space would fail. A concise account of Westminster may be found in the book +of that name in the _Fascination of London_ Series. The chief point to note +in the palace is St. Stephen's Chapel, of which the crypt now alone +remains. About fifteen or twenty years previous to the date of this map +King Henry VIII. had claimed Whitehall from Wolsey, and transferred himself +to it from the old palace, which was growing ruinous. + +Across the river opposite to Westminster is Lambeth, standing in a grove of +trees. + +Beyond Westminster westward all is open ground, in the midst of which we +see St. James's Hospital, where is now St. James's Palace. Though still +marked "Hospital," it had already been annexed by the King. Where is now +Trafalgar Square we are shown in the map the King's Mews, built by Henry +VIII. for his hawks. Charing Cross is marked by the cross put up in memory +of Queen Eleanor. Along the river banks is a fringe of fine houses and +foliage. We may pick out one or two of these princely buildings--namely, +Durham House, Savoy Palace, and Somerset House (see _The Strand_ in the +above series). The church of St. Clement Danes is only separated from the +open country by a single row of houses. + +On the west side of the Fleet River is Bridewell, built by Henry VIII. in +1522 for the entertainment of the Emperor Charles V. Here, in 1529, Henry +and Katherine stayed while the legality of their marriage was being +disputed in Blackfriars across the Fleet. Then we come to Old St. Paul's, +still carrying its tall spire, destined so soon to topple down. Between it +and the river is one of the most famous of the old strongholds, Baynard's +Castle. On the extreme right of the map is the port of Queenhithe, which +can be seen to-day by any wanderer in the City. + +II. + +Turning the page, we see the old City as it was before the Fire, made up of +gable-ended wooden houses with overhanging stories, crowded close together, +and diversified by the numerous pinnacles and spires of the City churches, +many of which were never rebuilt. The embattled line of the wall hems the +City in on the north, and Cheapside cuts it laterally in a broad highway. +Almost in the centre of the picture is the Guildhall. The interest reaches +its culmination in the spectacle of Old London Bridge, with its irregular +houses, its archways, and its chapel. Note that the engraver has not +omitted to indicate the decaying heads on poles, a succession of which +adorned the bridge throughout the centuries (see _The Thames_ in above +series). + +On the south side of the water is St. Mary Overies (see _Mediæval London_, +vol. ii., p. 297). It has as neighbours Winchester and Rochester Houses, +the residences of the respective Bishops of those sees; while the proud +cupolas of Suffolk House--built _circa_ 1516, and later used as the +Mint--are clearly shown. The houses running from it up to the foreground of +the picture are beautifully delineated, and may be taken as models of +Elizabethan architecture; while the man with the harp and the horseman are +quite clearly enough drawn to show their period by the style of their +dress. From some point behind here must Wyngaerde have made his survey, as +it is manifestly impossible it could have been done from Suffolk House, as +stated by one authority. + +III. + +There are three objects so striking in this picture that attention is at +once claimed by them to the exclusion of all else--the Abbey of Bermondsey, +the Tower of London, and Greenwich Palace. In Bermondsey two Queens +died--Katherine, consort of Henry V., and Elizabeth, consort of Edward IV. +Only a year or two before this map was made had the grand old Abbey been +surrendered to the King (for a full account see _Mediæval London_, vol. +ii., p. 288). + +The Tower, taken as a whole, is very much as we still know it; it is one of +the oldest remaining relics of the past. Note the gruesome place of +execution near by, and the guns and primitive cranes at work upon the +wharf. Just beyond it eastward rise the fretted pinnacles of St. +Katherine's by the Tower, on the spot now covered by St. Katherine's Docks. + +Stepney Church stands far away on the horizon, cut off from the City by an +ocean of green fields. + +Returning to the south side, we see Says Court, Deptford, between +Bermondsey and Greenwich. This was for long the home of John Evelyn, and +was ruinously treated by Peter the Great, who tenanted it during his +memorable stay in this country in 1698. (For Greenwich Palace or Placentia, +see _London in the Time of the Tudors_.) + + * * * * * + +CIVITAS LONDINUM + +DESCRIPTION.--This is the earliest map of London known to be in existence, +for though Wyngaerde's survey preceded it in date, as we have seen, that is +a panorama and not a map proper. The present map, which is known as that of +Ralph Agas, itself has a good deal more of the panoramic nature than would +be allowed in a modern one, and is on that account all the more +interesting. The first to connect Agas's name with this map was Vertue +(1648-1756), and he stated its date to be 1560; but, as will be seen in the +description of the next plate, Vertue's claims to strict veracity have now +been shaken, therefore his testimony must be accepted with caution. + +DESIGNER.--Ralph Agas, land surveyor and engraver, died in 1621, and he is +described in the register as "an aged." Of course, it is possible that Agas +lived to the age of eighty-five or over, in which case he might not have +been too young to execute this work in 1560, and he himself says, in a +document dated 1606, which has been preserved, that he had been in work as +a surveyor for upwards of forty years. There are two branches into which +the enquiry now resolves itself. First, did Agas really make the map? And, +second, if he did, at what date did he make it? There is no conclusive +evidence on either hand. There is a survey of Oxford, similar in character, +signed by him, and though this is not dated, it is known to have been +completed in 1578, and published ten years later. On the original copy of +this, which is at the Bodleian, there are the following lines: + + "Neare tenn yeares paste the author made a doubt + Whether to print or lay this worke aside + Untill he firste had London plotted out + Which still he craves, although he be denied + He thinkes the Citie now in hiest pride, + And would make showe how it was beste beseene + The thirtieth yeare of our moste noble queene." + +ORIGINAL.--The two earliest known copies of the Agas map, which was first +engraved on wood, are both of the same issue; one is at the Pepysian +Library, Magdalen College, Oxford, and the other at the Guildhall. Edward +J. Francis made a careful reproduction of that at the Guildhall in 1874, +and it is from that our present plate is taken. It is, of course, reduced, +for the original is 6 feet and ½ inch long, by 2 feet 4½ inches wide. The +notes attached to this issue are by W. H. Overall, F.S.A., one of the +leading authorities on the question. He doubts Agas's connection with the +map, but thinks if he were the originator it could not have been done +before 1591. The arms in the corner on the two oldest extant maps are those +of James I., but as the arms on the royal barge in the river are those of +Elizabeth, it has been conjectured that the maps are themselves copies of a +later edition, wherein the arms were altered in conformity with +conventional opinion. The chief points which give data from internal +evidence are as follows: St. Paul's Cathedral is bereft of its spire. This +was struck by lightning in 1561, so the map must be subsequent to that +date. The Royal Exchange is apparently built. This was opened in 1570. +Northumberland House, built about 1605, has not been begun. We may take it, +therefore, generally that the original map, which was engraved on wooden +blocks, was made some time in the latter half of Elizabeth's reign, and it +is probable that it was done by Agas. + +DETAILS.--The map abounds in interesting detail. + +Beginning in the extreme left-hand lower corner, we see St. Margaret's +Church, St. Stephen's Chapel, and Westminster Hall. In the river are swans +of monstrous size. King Street, now merged in Whitehall, is very clearly +shown, also the two heavy gates barring the way. The most northern of +these, designed by Holbein, was called after him, and stood until the +middle of the eighteenth century. North of it, on the west, is the +tilting-ground; and stags browse in St. James's Park. Between the gates, on +the east, are the Privy Gardens, overlooked by the Palace of +Whitehall--most unpalatial in appearance. + +Piccadilly is "the Waye to Redinge," and Oxford Street "the Waye to +Uxbridge." Near Whitcomb Lane and the Haymarket women are spreading clothes +in the fields to dry, while cows as large as houses graze around. St. +Martin's Lane leads up to St. Giles, more particularly dealt with in the +description of the next plate. The irregular buildings of St. Mary +Rouncevall, a religious house, had not yet been taken down to make way for +Northumberland House, itself to be replaced by Northumberland Avenue. The +houses of great nobles, with their magnificent gardens stretching down to +the waterside, are still in evidence. North of the well-laid-out Covent +Garden, owned by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, are nothing but trees +and fields. Passing on quickly down the Strand, we find Temple Bar blocking +the way to the City. This is the old Temple Bar, replaced after the Great +Fire by the one much more familiar to us, which stood until 1878. A very +fine illustration of the old one is given in Sir Walter Besant's _London in +the Time of the Tudors_, p. 245. This book should certainly be studied by +anyone desirous of understanding the map. From Temple Bar past the back of +St. Clement's Church runs a broad road roughly corresponding with our new +Kingsway. Further eastward the Fleet River still flows strongly down from +its northern heights, crossed by many bridges, and just where it joins the +Thames is Bridewell Prison. Further along, on the other side, is Baynard's +Castle, and in front of it, in the river, the Queen's barge, with the royal +arms of Elizabeth in the centre. Some way back from Baynard's Castle a +bridge crosses a street, and is marked "The Wardrop." This was in very +truth the wardrobe or repository of the royal clothes! Drawing a line +northward for some way, we come to Smithfield, where tilting is represented +as in animated progress. Not far northward is St. John's, Clerkenwell, and +its neighbouring nunnery; to the west is the Charterhouse. Turning south +again, past St. Bartholomew's Church, we see the building of Christ's +Hospital, founded by Edward VI. This, it may be noted, is one of the +buildings erected since Wyngaerde's time. Then we come to St. Paul's, shorn +of its spire, with St. Gregory's Church, quite recognizable, in front of +it. There were continual edicts against building in the Tudor and Stuart +reigns, for it was feared London would grow out of hand; but, in spite of +this, houses have enormously increased since Wyngaerde made his survey. The +battlemented wall still encloses the City, but hamlets have sprung up +outside, notably at Cripplegate. + +But within the wall there are still some fine gardens and open spaces, one +of which remains to this day in Finsbury Circus. Many roads meet in the +heart of London, where now the Bank, Mansion House, and Royal Exchange +stare across at each other. It is difficult to make out from the medley of +buildings in the map if Gresham's first Royal Exchange is there or not, but +it seems to be so. This was opened in 1570 by the Queen in person. St. +Christopher le Stock's square tower may be seen on the ground now absorbed +by the Bank of England. + +Crossing over now to the Surrey side, we see conspicuously the two round +pens for bull- and bear-baiting respectively. There are many +pleasure-gardens, for the Surrey side was for long the recreation-ground of +the Londoner. On the river there are innumerable wherries, and below the +bridge at Billingsgate many ships cluster; one has even managed to get +above the bridge. Off the Steelyard and at the Tower are men and horses in +the water. This is a most interesting point. In those at the Tower it may +be clearly seen that the man is filling the water-casks on the animals' +backs with a ladle. This gives a glimpse into the discomforts endured by +our ancestors before water-pipes were laid on as a matter of course to all +houses. In the eighteenth-century reproductions of this map, oddly enough, +in one instance this detail has disappeared, and in the other it is turned +into a man driving cows into the water with a whip; thus doing away with +all its significance. Far to the north in Spitalfields men are practising +archery; while Aldgate, for long the home of Geoffrey Chaucer, is +conspicuous a little north of the Tower. + +As became a man living in days of the Reformation, Agas does not point out +the religious houses then falling into decay or occupied by laymen, yet +what a number of them must have been still in existence! Standing on the +White Tower, and looking north and to the right hand, there must have been +visible outside the wall St. Katherine's by the Tower, Eastminster, and the +Sorores Minores, whose name still remains in the Minories, here marked. +Within the City was Holy Trinity, close to Aldgate--of this a couple of +most rare and interesting plans and a full account may be found in +_Mediæval London_, vol. ii.--and not far off was St. Helen's Nunnery; also +Crutched Friars, Austin Friars, Grey Friars, and, in the extreme west, near +the Fleet, Blackfriars. Of these and many others full accounts may be found +in the volume indicated above. + + * * * * * + +THE PARISH OF ST. GILES IN THE FIELDS + +DESCRIPTION.--This plate, on being compared with the preceding one, shows a +strong general resemblance, with a considerable difference in detail. Also, +below are two churches, one of which is marked, "Present St. Giles's +Church, built anno 1734," which shows that the map was made not earlier +than that date. It is, in fact, a part of one of a set of +eighteenth-century maps based on that of Agas, and not only differing from +it in detail, but also differing slightly one from another. Some of these +are unsigned, and some are signed "G. Vertue," and were specifically +claimed by Vertue as having been made by him, and based upon Agas's map of +1560. Recently, however, doubts have been raised as to Vertue's share in +the transaction, and it is now very commonly believed that he did no more +than procure some maps, engraved on pewter and made in Holland, based on +that of Agas. These he altered a little in detail, and then claimed as his +own work. The original pewter plates are in possession of the Society of +Antiquaries, Burlington House. The present example differs in some small +particulars from these. Copies of the maps are not rare, and can be seen at +the British Museum and elsewhere. + +DETAILS.--The bit of London here represented is of exceptional interest. It +shows the corner of Tottenham Court Road when High Street and Broad Street, +St. Giles, were the main highway, long before the cutting through of New +Oxford Street. It shows, further, the descent of Holborn into the valley of +the Fleet, the "heavy hill" along which criminals were brought from Newgate +to the place of execution. It shows the site where the gallows stood for +some time, about 1413, before being definitely set up at Tyburn. Close to +this was the Bowl tavern, where the condemned man was allowed his last +draft of ale. The most interesting old hospital for lepers is clearly +shown. (See "Holborn," _Fascination of London_ Series.) + + * * * * * + +"LONDINUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS" + +BY HOEFNAGEL + +DESCRIPTION.--This map seems at first sight to be much less interesting +than those which have preceded it, but that is due chiefly to its small +size. The probable date is 1572, and even if otherwise unknown, it might +have been judged approximately by the costumes of the figures in the +foreground. It must have been contemporary with, or even earlier than, +Agas, with whose work it is interesting to compare it. This map was made by +Hoefnagel, and is taken from Braun and Hogenburg's work, _Civitates Orbis +Terrarum_, in which Braun wrote the text, while Hogenburg and Hoefnagel +engraved the maps. In the left-hand top corner are the arms of Elizabeth, +and in the right-hand corner those of the City. In the later editions the +delicately drawn figures in the foreground are omitted. In his notes on Old +London Maps in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, vol. vi., Mr. +W. H. Overall says it cannot be supposed that all the cities of the world +engraved in Braun and Hogenburg's work were freshly surveyed for the +purpose; and there are several points--such, for instance, as the inclusion +of the steeple of St. Paul's, destroyed in 1561--which point to the fact +that this version was probably taken from existing surveys. The original is +19 inches by 12¾ inches. The bull- and bear-baiting pits on the Surrey side +are quite conspicuous, and so is the royal barge, in very much the same +position in the river as it is in Agas's map. Here is a detailed account of +it in Sir Walter Besant's own words: + +DETAILS.--"This is in some respects more exact than the better-known map +attributed to Agas. The streets, gardens, and fields are laid down with +greater precision, and there is no serious attempt to combine, as Agas +does, a picture or a panorama with a map. At the same time, the surveyor +has been unable to resist the fashion of his time to consider the map as +laid down from a bird's-eye view, so that he thinks it necessary to give +something of elevation. + +"I will take that part of the map which lies outside the walls. The +precinct of St. Katherine stands beside the Tower, with its chapel, court, +and gardens; there are a few houses near it, apparently farmhouses. The +convent of Eastminster had entirely vanished. Nothing indicates the site of +the nunnery in the Minories, yet there were ruins of these buildings +standing here till the end of the eighteenth century. Outside Bishopsgate +houses extended past St. Mary's Spital, some of whose buildings were still +apparently standing. On the west side St. Mary of Bethlehem stood, exactly +on the site of Liverpool Street Station, but not covering nearly so large +an area; it appears to have occupied a single court, and was probably what +we should now consider a very pretty little cottage, like St. Edmund's +Hall, Oxford. + +"Outside Cripplegate the houses begin again, leaving between the Lower +Moorfields dotted with ponds; there are houses lining the road outside +Aldersgate. The courts are still standing of St. Bartholomew's Priory, +Charterhouse, St. John's Priory, and the Clerkenwell nunnery; Smithfield is +surrounded with houses; Bridewell, with its two square courts, stands upon +the river bank; Fleet Street is irregular in shape, the houses being +nowhere in line; the courts of Whitefriars are still remaining. The Strand +has all its great houses facing the river; their backs open upon a broad +street, with a line of mean houses on the north side. On the south of the +river there is a line of houses on the High Street, a line of houses along +the river bank on either side, and another one running near Bermondsey +Abbey. + +"Within the walls we observe that some of the religious houses have quite +disappeared--Crutched Friars, for instance. There is a vacant space, which +is probably one of the courts of St. Helen's. The Priory of the Holy +Trinity preserves its courts, but there is no sign of the church. There are +still visible the courts and gardens of Austin Friars. There is still the +great court of the Grey Friars, but the buildings of Blackfriars seem to +have vanished entirely" (_London in the Time of the Tudors_, p. 185). + + * * * * * + +NORDEN'S MAPS OF LONDON AND WESTMINSTER + +DESIGNER.--Being on a very small scale, these maps are not so attractive as +some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born +about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of +delicate penmanship, which he turned to much account in map-making. He +projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but during his lifetime only +managed to publish books on two counties--namely, Middlesex and +Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other +counties in manuscript, and these have since been published. Norden was +appointed Surveyor of His Majesty's Woods in 1609. The engraving of the +Middlesex maps was done by Peter Van den Keere. + +ORIGINALS.--The reproductions are taken from those which appear in Norden's +_Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by 6¾ inches. The wonderful +delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated by +students of London cartography. + + * * * * * + +FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT + +DESCRIPTION.--This map generally goes by the name of Faithorne, the +engraver, but in reality the credit is due quite as much to Richard +Newcourt the elder (d. 1679), who was the draughtsman. It is selected for a +place here because, the date being 1658, it shows the City as it was before +the Fire, and therefore forms a supplement to the map of Ogilby which +follows, and shows the City as it was when rebuilt after the Fire. + +ENGRAVER.--William Faithorne the elder was born in 1616, and was an +engraver and portrait painter. He engraved numerous portraits, book-plates, +maps, and title-pages. Among his works are two large maps, entitled "Cities +of London and Westminster," and of "Virginia and Maryland." + +ORIGINAL.--The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are +in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliothèque Nationale of +Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British +Museum, and is on the same scale. + +DETAILS.--It will be noticed that the sheet chosen for inclusion in this +atlas shows very nearly the same area as the map of Ogilby which follows, +but does not go quite so far eastward as the Tower. The City wall is +clearly shown along the north side of the City, and the bastion near +Cripplegate stands out; the town ditch can be traced just beyond this +corner running southward. It was the curious and apparently meaningless +angle that the wall makes here which led Sir Walter Besant to suggest that +it may have been designed to exclude the ancient Roman amphitheatre, of +which the site is now lost (see _Early London_, p. 85). The Fleet River is +shown still open and crossed by bridges, of which there are no fewer than +five from Holborn to the mouth. That at Fleet Street shows, indeed, a +continuous line of houses. St. Paul's is very clearly delineated. The +figures within the City refer to the old churches, of which a list is given +below. Notice the gable roofs, still the chief style of domestic +architecture. The lines of the streets in the heart of the City remain +wonderfully the same to our own day. Outside the walls the City is +stretching out great arms into the country. There is one such arm made by +the continuous houses fringing Bishopsgate Street as far as the extreme +northern limit of the map. Then there is a gap between this and Moorgate +Street, including all the ground known at Moorfields and Finsbury. A few +scattered houses and some cultivated fields cover this space, and in one +corner is "Bedlame." + +A mass of houses lies westward, running on to the Charter House, northward +of which are open fields, and so to "Clarkin Well." + + THE SEVERALL CHVRCHES WITHIN THE WALLES OF LONDON DISTINGUISHED BY + SEUERALL FIGURES, BY WHICH ALLSOE THE EYE MAY PARTLY BE GUIDED TO THE + EMINENT STREETS IN OR NEERE WHICH THEY STAND, WHICH COULD NOT WELL BE + OTHERWISE DEMONSTRATED, IN REGARD OF THE SMALL SCALE BY WHICH THIS MAPP + IS DESCRIBED. + + 1. Albans in Woodstreet + 2. Alhallows Barkin nere Tower hill + 3. Alhallows in Bread street + 4. Alhallows y^e Greate in Thamas streete + 5. Alhallows the Lesse do. do. + 6. Alhallows in Hony lane nere Chepside + 7. Alhallows in Lumber street + 8. Alhallows Stayninge nere Fanshawes street + 9. Alhallows in y^e Wall nere Moorefeilds + 10. Alphage by y^e Wall nere Cripple gate + 11. Andrew Hubard by Philpot lan + 12. Andrew Vndershaft + 13. Andrew in y^e Wardrop aboue Pudle wharfe + 14. Ann at Alders gate + 15. Ann in Black friers + 16. Antholins in Watling streete + 17. Austins nere Paules church + 18. Bartholomew by y^e Exchange + 19. Bennet Finch + 20. Bennet Grace church neer Gracious streete + 21. Bennet at Paules wharfe + 22. Bennet Sherehogg nere Bucklers berry + 23. Bottolph at Billings-gate + 24. Christs Church by Newgate streete + 25. Christophers in Thredneedle streete + 26. Clements in East chepe + 27. Dennis back Church nere E[=a]shastreete + 28. Dunstanes in y^e East nere Tower street + 29. Edmonds in Lumber streete + 30. Ethelborough in Bishops gate street + 31. Faith under Paules + 32. Foster in Foster lane nere Chepside + 65. French Church in Third needle street + 33. Gabriell in Fanshawes streete + 34. Georges in Bottolph lane + 35. Gregories by Paules + 36. Hellins nere Bishops gate + 37. Iames Dukes place nere Aldgat + 38. Iames Garlick hill by Bow lane + 39. Iohn Baptist nere Dow gate street + 40. Iohn Euangelist nere Friday street + 41. Iohn Zachary nere Foster lane + 42. Katherin Coleman nere Fanshawes stret + 43. Katherin Cree church nere Aldgate + 44. Lawrence Iury nere Guild hall + 45. Lawrence Poultney nere Eastchepe + 46. Leonarde in East-chepe + 47. Leonarde in Foster lane + 48. Magnus by the Bridge + 49. Margrett in Lothberry + 50. Margrett Moses next Friday street + 51. Margrett in new Fishstreete + 52. Margrett in Rood lane + 53. Mary Abchurch Lane + 54. Mary Aldermanberry + 55. Mary Aldermary nere Watling streete + 56. Mary le Bow in Chepside + 57. Mary Bothaw in Cannon streete + 58. Mary Cole church in Chepside + 59. Mary Hill aboue Billings gate + 60. Mary Mounthaw aboue Broken warfe + 61. Mary Somersett nere Broken wharfe + 62. Mary Staynings nere Alders gate + 63. Mary Woollchurch nere y^e Stocks + 64. Mary Woollnoth in Lumber streete + 66. Martins Iremonger lane nere Chepside + 67. Martins with^{in} Ludgate + 68. Martins Orgars nere Eastcheape + 69. Martins Outwitch next Bishopsgate stret + 70. Martins Vintree neere y^e 3 Cranes + 71. Mathews in Friday Street + 72. Maudlins milke str[=e]t neere Chepside + 73. Maudlins in Old Fishstreete + 74. Michaell Bashaw behind Guildhall + 75. Michaell in Cornhill + 76. Michaell Crooked Lane neere N Fish'trete + 77. Michaell att Quene Hith + 78. Michaell y^e Querne vper end of Chepside + 79. Michaell Royall att Colledge Hill + 80. Michaell in Woodstreet nere Chepside + 81. Mildred in Bred streete nere Chepside + 82. Mildred in the Poultry + 83. Nicholas Acons Nicholas lane nere L[=u]berstreet + 84. Nicholas Cole Abby in old Fishstreet + 85. Nicholas Olaves in Breadstreet + 86. Olaues in Hart street nere Cruched friers + 87. Olaues in old Iury at y^e lower end of Chepside + 88. Olaues in Silver streete + 89. Pancras in Soper lane nere Bucklerbery + 90. Peters nere Chepside + 91. Peters in Cornehill + 92. Peters nere Paules wharfe + 93. Peters y^e poore nere Brod streete + 94. Steven in Coleman streete nere Moregate + 95. Steven in Wallbrooke + 96. Swithens in Ca[=n]on streete by London stone + 97. Thomas y^e Apostle + 98. Trinitie Church aboue Quene Hith + 99. Dutch Church nere Brodstreete + + * * * * * + +OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON + +DESCRIPTION.--This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have +yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and +the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist +in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire. + +DESIGNER.--John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention +to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment +as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the +year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William +Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map +was done by Hollar. + +ORIGINAL.--The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in +twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen +in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two +examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional +sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London +and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms +of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas +Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner. + +DETAILS.--Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, +bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John +Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse +bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery +Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their +equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury +Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that +the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for +their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is +new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, +there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward +innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day +behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of +their existence could possibly find them. + +On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of +the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of +the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. +Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor +and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the +receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up +a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, +and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and +another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great +thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were +made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only +finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in +1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with +the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the +improvements here may be considered complete. + +To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; +their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. +Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make +way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is +covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main +highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There +was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and +the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the +smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, +and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a +palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. +to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of +the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The +site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the +rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with +remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were +camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to +the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed +since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt +out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of +the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone +also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards +quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant +says: + +"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets +and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before +the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the +same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between +Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity +Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd +more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire +London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at +the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps--'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, +m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf +Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive +to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running +narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. +There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 +yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the +standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a +spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (_London in +the Time of the Stuarts_, p. 280). + +THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN +THE BRITISH MUSEUM + +We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes +and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, +and 210 Yards bearing Name. + +The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. +The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and +Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the +Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in +the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. +The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with +Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to +Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and +sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left +Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, +Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. +faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words +at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to +the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every +Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, +Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the +Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane. + +THE SEVERAL MARKS AND NAMES OF THE WARDS, PARISHES, AND LIBERTIES + + WARDS + + A Faringdon Without + B Faringdon Within + C Bainard-Castle + D Bread-Street + E Queen-Hith + F Cordwainers + G Walbrook + H Vintry + I Dowgate + K Broad-Street + L Cornhil + M Cheap + N Bassishaw + O Coleman-Street + P Bishopsgate + Q Cripplegate + T Tower + R Aldersgate + S Billingsgate + T Lime-Street + U Langborn + W Portsoken + X Aldgate + Y Candlewick + Z Bridg + + PARISHES AND LIBERTIES + + 1. St. James Clerkenwel + 2. St. Giles Cripple-Gate + 3. St. Leonard Shoreditch + 4. Norton-Folgate Liberty + 5. St. Botolph Bishopsgate + 6. Stepney + 7. St. Stephen Coleman Street + 8. Alhallows on the Wall + 9. St. Andrew Holborn + 10. St. Giles in the Fields + 11. St. Sepulchers + 12. St. Mary Cole-Church + 13. St. Botolph Aldersgate + 14. St. Alphage + 15. St. Alban Wood Street + 16. St. Olave Silver Street + 17. St. Michael Bassishaw + 18. Christ Church + 19. St. Anne Aldersgate + 20. St. Mary Staining + 21. St. Mary Aldermanbury + 22. St. Olave Jewry + 23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane + 24. St. Mildred Poultry + 25. St. Bennet Sherehog + 26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane + 27. St. Laurence Jewry + 28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street + 29. Alhallows Hony Lane + 30. St. Mary le Bow + 31. St. Peter Cheap + 32. St. Michael Wood Street + 33. St. John Zachary + 34. St. Martins Liberty + 35. St. Leonard Foster Lane + 36. St. Vedast, alias Foster + 37. St. Michael Quern + 38. St. John Evangelist + 39. St. Mathew Friday Street + 40. St. Margaret Lothbury + 41. St. Bartholemew Exchange + 42. St. Christophers + 43. St. Mary Woolnoth + 44. St. Mary Woolchurch + 45. St. Michael Cornhil + 46. St. Bennet Fink + 47. St. Peter Poor + 48. St. Peter Cornhil + 49. St. Martin Outwich + 50. St. Hellens + 51. St. Ethelborough + 52. St. Andrew Undershaft + 53. Alhallows Lumbard Street + 54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street + 55. St. Dionis Back-Church + 56. St. Katherine Cree-Church + 57. St. James Dukes Place + 58. St. Katherine Coleman + 59. St. Olave Hart Street + 60. St. Botolph Aldgate + 61. St. Mary White Chapel + 62. Trinity Minories + 63. St. Bartholemew the Great + 64. Alhallows Staining + 65. Alhallows Barking + 66. St. Mary Abchurch + 67. St. Nicholas Accorn + 68. St. Clement East Cheap + 69. St. Bennet Grace-Church + 70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch + 71. St. Margaret Pattons + 72. St. Andrew Hubbart + 73. Dutchy Liberty + 74. St. Clement Danes + 75. Rolls Liberty + 76. St. Dunstan in the West + 77. White Fryers Precinct + 78. St. Bridget + 79. Bridewel Precinct + 80. St. Anne Black-Fryers + 81. St. Martin's Ludgate + 82. St. Gregories + 83. St. Andrew Wardrobe + 84. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf + 85. St. Peter + 86. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street + 87. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby + 88. St. Austine + 89. St. Margaret Moses + 90. Alhallows Bread-Street + 91. St. Mildred Bread-Street + 92. St. Nicholas Olave + 93. St. Mary Mounthaw + 94. St. Mary Somerset + 95. St. Michael Queen Hith + 96. Trinity + 97. St. Mary Aldermary + 98. St. Thomas Apostles + 99. St. Michael Royal + 100. St. James Garlick-Hith + 101. St. Martin Vintry + 102. St. Antholin's + 103. St. John Baptist + 104. St. Stephen Walbrook + 105. St. Swithin + 106. St. Mary Bothaw + 107. Alhallows the Great + 108. St. Faith's + 109. St. Leonard East Cheap + 110. St. Laurence Poultney + 111. St. Martin Orgar's + 112. Little Alhallows + 113. St. Michael Crooked Lane + 114. St. Magnus at the Bridg + 115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street + 116. St. George Botolph Lane + 117. St. Botolph Billingsgate + 118. St. Mary Hill + 119. St. Dunstans in the East + 120. Little St. Bartholemews + 121. Tower Liberty + 122. St. Katherines + + LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 + COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY + The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on + the Map + + 7-14. African House, Throgmorton Street, B55 + 2-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7 + 7-18. Aldgate + 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church + 9-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church + 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great + 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little + 7-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] + 9-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church + 5-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church + 9-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane + 9-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 + 5-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 + 11-1. Arundel House + + 5-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 + 6-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 + 6-3. Barnard's Inn + 6-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 + 8-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 + 3-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 + 6-14. Bethlehem, New + 6-15. Bishops Gate + 6-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 + 6-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 + 10-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 + 7-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 + 7-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 + 6-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 + 9-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 + 6-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 + 8-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 + 9-6. Bridewell + 9-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane + 3-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 + 6-2. Brook House + 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 + 6-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 + 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39 + + 9-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 + 3-6. Charter House + 7-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street + 7-7. Christ Hospital + 7-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 + 9-1. Clements Inn + 6-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 + 9-3. Clifford's Inn + 9-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 + 6-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 + 6-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 + 9-9. Cordwainers Hall + 5-10. Cripple Gate + 5-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 + 7-2. Cursitor's Office + 11-17. Custome house + 9-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21 + + 6-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 + 5-16. Devonshire House, A73 + 9-9. Doctors Commons, C10 + 3-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 + 7-14. Drapers Hall, B57 + 6-14. Dutch Church + 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street + + 8-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 + 6-4. Ely House + 10-1. Essex House + 6-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60 + + 10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] + 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street + 9-6. Fleet Bridg + 8-5. Fleet [Prison] + 7-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 + 7-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 + 7-14. French Church, B62 + 6-3. Furnival's Inn + + 6-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 + 9-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 + 5-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 + 3-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 + 7-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 + 5-1. Gray's Inn + 7-15. Gresham Colledge + 3-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 + 8-12. Grocers Hall, B53 + 7-11. Guild Hall + + 7-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 + 7-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 + 4-6. Hicks's Hall + 7-5. Holborn Bridge + ---- [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] + ---- [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories] + + 9-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane + 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 + 8-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 + 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37 + + 6-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 + 9-7. King's Printing House, C3 + + 5-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 + 7-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 + 8-15. Leaden Hall Market + 6-16. Leather-Sellers Hall + 7-2. Lincoln's Inn + 10-1. Lions Inne + 11-14. London Bridg + 5-8. London House, A57 + 9-7. Ludgate + 9-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane) + + 8-11. Mercer's Chapel + 8-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall + 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 + 9-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane + 8-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market + ---- [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"] + + 9-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26 + 10-1. New Inn + 2-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green + 2-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6 + 7-6. Newgate + 8-7. Newgate Market + + 10-10. Painters Stainers Hall + 8-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54 + 6-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22 + 8-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62 + 7-7. Physicians College, B37 + 6-14. Pinner's Hall, B21 + 6-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6 + 6-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59 + 8-12. Poultry Compter, B83 + 9-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6 + + 8-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75 + 7-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91 + 8-14. Royal Exchange + + 7-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41 + 9-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23 + 6-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93 + 9-6. Scotch Hall, C2 + 6-9. Scriveners Hall + 9-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97 + 9-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street + 8-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly + 9-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7 + 8-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71 + 5-11. Sion College, A61 + 9-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72 + 10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33 + 5-6. Smithfield Penns + 11-1. Somerset House + 6-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church + 5-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall + 6-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church + 10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, + between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] + 8-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66 + 10-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church + 6-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church + 9-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church + 9-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row + 8-9. St. Austine's Church + 5-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great + 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little + 8-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church + 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital + 8-13. St. Bennet Fink Church + 8-15. St. Bennet Grace Church + 10-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church + 8-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church + 9-6. St. Bridget's Church + 6-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church + 6-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church + 11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames + Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] + 5-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church + 8-13. St. Christophers Church + 10-1. St. Clement Danes Church + 9-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church + 9-3. St. Dunstan's Church + 10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church + 9-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church + 6-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. + of Little St. Hellens] + 9-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's] + 9-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of + Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane] + 10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40 + 4-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church + 9-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's] + 7-16. St. Hellen's Church + 7-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place + 10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church + 9-12. St. John Baptist Church + 9-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at + the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north] + 6-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane + 8-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church + 8-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68 + 10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church + 7-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church + 10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church + 7-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church + 11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59 + 9-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church + 6-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church + 9-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church + 9-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church + 6-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old + Jewry] + 10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43 + 8-10. St. Mary le Bow Church + 7-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony + lane Market] + 10-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church + 10-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church + 10-9. St. Mary Somerset Church + 6-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane + 8-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market] + 8-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head + Alley] + 7-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church + 9-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of + Basing Lane] + 9-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church + 10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the + Monument] + 7-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining + the west end of St. Olave Jewry] + 8-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church + 10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church + 7-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner + of Thread Needle Street] + 10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church + 8-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church + 9-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church + 8-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84 + 6-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church + 8-14. St. Michael Cornhil + 10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church + 10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church + 7-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of + Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street] + 9-11. St. Michael Royal Church + 7-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45 + 9-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church + 9-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old + Fish St. Hill) + 9-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near + middle of W. side] + 9-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27 + 7-12. St. Olave Jewry Church + 5-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church + 8-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church + 9-8. St. Paul's Cathedral + 9-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5 + 11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London + 7-10. St. Peter Cheap Church + 6-14. St. Peter Poor Church + 10-8. St. Peter's Church + 8-14. St. Peter's Cornhil + 7-6. St. Sephlcher's Church + 6-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56 + 9-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church + 10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street + 9-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles + 7-9. St. Vedast Church, B40 + 6-2. Staple Inn + 8-7. Stationers Hall + 6-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89 + 6-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11 + + 9-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22 + 10-3. Temple Church + 5-9. Thanet House, A58 + 6-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86 + 11-19. Tower, The + ---- Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, + which see] + 10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45 + 8-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70 + 9-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4 + + 11-11. Vintonners Hall + 8-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85 + + 10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38 + 6-1. Warwick House + 11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28 + 11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57 + 7-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43 + 6-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13 + 8-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53 + 10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, _m_15 + 7-10. Wood Street Compter, B46 + 9-12. Wool Church Market + + * * * * * + +LONDON IN 1741-45 + +BY JOHN ROCQUE + +DESCRIPTION.--In some ways this map is the most interesting of the whole +series, for it comes nearest to our own times, and yet by studying it we +can infer the remarkable changes that have taken place within the memory of +man. It is much more comprehensive than Ogilby's, including the whole of +the outlying suburbs, and even going as far as Edgware and Tottenham, which +are still no part even of Greater London. + +DESIGNER.--Very little is known about John Rocque. He was probably a native +of France, but was residing in England about 1750. He engraved maps and a +few views from his own designs. + +ORIGINAL.--The original is in twenty-four sheets, and is 13 feet in length +and 6¾ feet in depth. It can be seen at the British Museum. That which is +here presented is the central part of this, not reduced, but on the same +scale. Its interest is greatly increased by the fact that the names are +printed on the map, and are not given separately as in other instances. To +facilitate this Rocque has marked the houses bordering streets in white, +and only blocked them in black where they line market-gardens and other +parts indicated by a light surface. The map is a model of care and +comprehensive detail. + +DETAIL.--Beginning in the lower left-hand corner, we have the Royal +Hospital, with its neatly-laid-out grounds. Close to it the Westbourne, +whose irregular line determined the boundaries of Chelsea, falls into the +Thames; higher up its course is through the Five Fields, now one of the +most wealthy and popular districts of London--namely, Belgravia. St. +George's Hospital is already standing at Hyde Park Corner, and a fringe of +houses lines the road to Knightsbridge. Westminster is still largely open +in the west by Tothill Fields, scene of so many tournaments and jousts, and +the curve of the river encloses innumerable market-gardens. In St. James's +Park the stiff canal, memento of Dutch influence, has not yet been +transformed into the more attractive ornamental water. Carlton House +Terrace has not come into existence. Here Carlton House, which does not +appear to be marked, was standing, and was occupied by Frederick, Prince of +Wales, father of George III. North of this, with the omission of Regent +Street, made in 1813-20, the streets are pretty much as we know them. It is +beyond Oxford Street northward that the difference is striking. This +district was only just being built upon, and the well-laid-out streets soon +run off into open country. "Marybone" Gardens, a favourite tea-garden, and +the church, and a few houses, form a little hamlet just connected with the +other part of London by a single street, and further westward, north of +Berkeley Square, are fields. In the midst of these is the "Yorkshire +Stingo," the public-house from which the first omnibus in the Metropolis +began to run in 1829. The Tyburn Gallows still had much work to do; it was +fifty years later that the last execution took place here. Just within the +Hyde Park is the gruesome record, "where soldiers are shot." If we follow +Oxford Street eastward to Tottenham Court Road, we find that it is only +connected with High Holborn by the curve through High and Broad Streets at +St. Giles's. To the south is the star of Seven Dials, and all the district +so completely altered by the cutting through of Charing Cross Road, and +then Shaftesbury Avenue in modern times. To the north, Montagu House +occupies the site the British Museum was destined to fill; it was purchased +by the Government in 1753, and pulled down about a hundred years later. +Bedford House, the town residence of the Dukes of Bedford, stood until +1800. Behind, Lamb's Conduit Fields run up to Battle Bridge, where one of +the early British battles was fought; this is now the site of King's Cross +Station. Not far off Bagnigge Wells and Sadler's Wells are in the heyday of +their prosperity. The Fleet or River of Wells may be traced passing through +the former, but further south it is covered in, and does not appear in the +open again until below Fleet Bridge, when it is ignominiously called Fleet +Ditch. + +Thames side is still fringed with "stairs to take water at" leading from +the great houses on the margin, and there is as yet no embankment. +Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, however, afford easy access to the +southern side. The labyrinth of the City is not seriously different from +that of the present day except in the omission of Cannon Street. Bethlehem +Hospital is still conspicuous, and the City wall has vanished strangely. +What we now call Finsbury Square is marked as Upper Moorfields. We have to +go far before we clear the houses to the east. Stepney and Bethnal Green +are fairly thickly populated, and though surrounded by open ground, are +connected by houses all the way from the City. But in the bend of the river +by Wapping the chief area is occupied by market-gardens. Crossing over to +the other side, we find the market-gardens very prominent; as London grows +larger she thrusts her sources of supply further from her. The central +ganglion of the Borough Road and its ray-like connections are marked out. +At one end is the "King's Bench," which was close to the Marshalsea, +associated with "Little Dorrit." The Marshalsea itself is not marked. +Dickens was yet to come, and it was only through his writings that it +gained a sentimental interest. A great part of the Borough is very marshy +indeed, and we note frequent ponds. The "Dog and Duck," otherwise "St. +George's Spaw," is almost surrounded by them. + +To sum up in Sir Walter Besant's words: + +"London, then, in the eighteenth century consisted first of the City, +nearly the whole of which had been rebuilt after the Fire, only a small +portion in the east and north containing the older buildings; a workmen's +quarter at Whitechapel; a lawyer's quarter from Gray's Inn to the Temple, +both inclusive; a quarter north of the Strand occupied by coffee-houses, +taverns, theatres, a great market, and the people belonging to these +places; an aristocratic quarter lying east of Hyde Park; and Westminster, +with its Houses of Parliament, its Abbey, and the worst slums in the whole +City. On the other side of the river, between London Bridge and St. +George's, was a busy High Street with streets to right and left; the river +bank was lined with houses from Paris Gardens to Rotherhithe; there were +streets at the back of St. Thomas's and Guy's; Lambeth Marsh lay in open +fields, and gardens intersected by sluggish streams and ditches; and +Rotherhithe Marsh lay equally open in meadows and gardens, with ponds and +ditches in the east.... + +"From any part of London it was possible to get into the country in a +quarter of an hour. One realizes the rural surroundings of the City by +considering that north of Gray's Inn was open country with fields; that +Queen Square, Bloomsbury, had its north side left purposely open in order +that the residents might enjoy the view of the Highgate and Hampstead +Hills. On the south side of the river Camberwell was a leafy grove; Herne +Hill was a park set with stately trees; Denmark Hill was a wooded wild; the +hanging woods of Penge and Norwood were as lovely as those that one can now +see at Cliveden or on the banks of the Wye" (_London in the Eighteenth +Century_, pp. 77-79). + + * * * * * + +[Illustration] + + 1. The Palace of Westminster. + 2. St. Stephen's Chapel. + 3. Westminster Hall. + 4. Westminster Abbey. + 5. Old Palace Yard. + 6. The Clock Tower. + 7. The Gate House. + 8. St. Margaret's Church. + 9. The King's Stairs. + 10. Star Chamber. + 11. Lambeth Palace. + 12. Stangate Horse Ferry. + 13. St. James's Hospital. + 14. St. James's. + 15. Whitehall. + 16. Holbein's Gate. + 17. Scotland Yard. + 18. Charing Cross. + 19. King's Mews. + 20. St. Martin's Church. + 21. St. Mary's Hospital. + 22. St. Giles's Church. + 23. Convent Garden. + 24. The Strand. + 25. York House. + 26. Durham House. + 27. Savoy Palace. + 28. Somerset Place. + 29. St. Mary Le Strand. + 30. St. Clement's Dane. + 31. Lincoln's Inn. + 32. Lincoln's Inn Fields. + 33. Gray's Inn. + 34. Ely House. + 35. Fetter Lane. + 36. Rolls Place. + 37. St. Dunstan's Church. + 38. The Temple Church. + 39. The Temple. + 40. Fleet Street. + 41. Grey Friars. + 42. Palace of Bridewell. + 43. St. Bride's. + 44. St. Andrew's Church. + 45. St. Sepulchre's Church. + 46. Fleet Ditch. + 47. St. John's Hospital. + 48. Smithfield. + 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. + 50. Newgate. + 51. Ludgate. + 52. Blackfriars. + 53. The Wardrobe. + 54. Baynard Castle. + 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. + 56. St. Paul's Cross. + 57. St. Bartholomew's the Great. + 58. Grey Friars. + 59. Queen Hythe. + 64. The Standard. + 66. Rochester House. + 69. The Stews. + 128. Bank Side. + +From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By +Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, +Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234 and 350._ + + _pp. 218, 219._ + + * * * * * + +[Illustration] + + 47. St. John's Hospital. + 48. Smithfield. + 49. St. James's, Clerkenwell. + 54. Baynard Castle. + 55. St. Paul's Cathedral. + 58. Grey Friars. + 59. Queen Hythe. + 60. St. Martin's le Grand. + 61. Aldersgate. + 62. Jews' Cemetery. + 63. Cheapside. + 64. The Standard. + 65. Cross, Cheapside. + 66. Rochester House. + 67. Winchester House. + 68. St. Mary's Overie. + 70. St. Thomas's Hospital. + 71. St. George's Church. + 72. Kent Road. + 73. Suffolk House. + 74. St. Giles's, Cripplegate. + 75. Cripplegate. + 76. The Barbican. + 77. St. Albans, Wood Street. + 78. Bow Church. + 79. Broken Wharf. + 80. The Cranes. + 81. The Steel Yard. + 82. Cold Harbour. + 83. Fishmongers' Hall. + 84. St. Thomas of Acons. + 85. Guildhall. + 86. Moorgate. + 87. Austin Friars. + 88. Bishopsgate. + 89. Church of St. Magnus. + 90. London Bridge. + 91. St. Thomas's Chapel. + 92. Bridge House. + 93. St. Olave's Church. + 94. St. Agnes's le Clare. + 95. Hoxton. + 96. St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. + 97. Leadenhall. + 98. Botolph Wharf. + 99. Billingsgate. + 100. St. Mary Spittal. + 101. Walls of London. + 107. High Street, Southwark. + +From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark, in 1543." By +Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library, +Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 218 and 350._ + + _pp. 234-235._ + + * * * * * + +[Illustration] + + 100. St. Mary Spittal. + 102. Houndsditch. + 103. Crutched Friars. + 104. Priory of Holy Trinity. + 105. Aldgate. + 106. St. Botolph. Aldgate. + 107. The Minories. + 108. The Postern Gate. + 109. Great Tower Hill. + 110. Place of Execution. + 111. Allhallow's Church, Barking. + 112. The Custom House. + 113. Tower of London. + 114. The White Tower. + 115. Traitors' Gate. + 116. Little Tower Hill. + 117. East Smithfield. + 118. Stepney. + 119. St. Catherine's Church. + 120. St. Catherine's Dock. + 121. St. Catherine's Hospital. + 122. Isle of Dogs. + 123. Monastery of Bermondsey. + 124. Says Court, Deptford. + 125. Palace of Placentia. + 126. Greenwich. + +From the Panorama of "London, Westminster, and Southwark in 1543." By +Anthony Van den Wyngaerde. (Sutherland Collection, Bodleian Library. +Oxford.) _For continuation see pp. 234, 235._ + + _pp. 350. 351._ + + * * * * * + +LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS. A REPRODUCTION, REDUCED, OF THE MAP BY +RALPH AGAS, CIRCA 1580. + +[Illustration] + +This antient and famous City of London, was first founded by _Brute_ the +Trojan, in the year of the World two thousand, eight hundred thirty & two, +and before the Nativity of our Saviour Christ, one thousand, one hundred, +and 30. So that since the first building, it is 2 thousand 6 hundred 60 & 3 +years. And afterward was repaired & enlarged by King _Lud_, but at this +present so flourisheth, that it containeth in length from the East to the +West about 3. English miles, from the North to the South about 2. English +miles. It is also so plentifully peopled, that it is divided into a hundred +and 22 Parishes within the Liberties, besides 16 Parishes that are in the +suburbs. It is planted on a very good soyle: for on the one side it is +compassed with corne & pasture ground, and on the other side it is inclosed +with the river of Thames, which not only aboundeth in allkind of fresh +water-fish, but also is so navigable, that it as well bringeth abundance of +commoditities as the plentifulnesse of our Contry doth yeild us:which both +augments the fame thereof abroad, and also increaseth the riches thereof at +hom; so that as it is head and chief City ofthe whole Realm, so is it +likewise head and chief Chamber of the whole Realm, as well for our outward +as inward commoditites. God prosper it at his pleasure. Amen. + + New Troy my name, when firts my fame begun + By Trajon Brute: who then me placed here: + On fruitfull soyle, where pleasant Thames doth run + Sith Lud my Lord, my King and Lover dear, + Encreast my boundes and London (far that rings + Through Regions large) he called then my name + How famous since (I stately seat of Kings) + Have flourish'd aye: let others that proclaim. + And let me joy thus happy still to see + This vertuous Peer my Sovereign King to be. + +_From a facsimile reproduction of the original map by Edward J. Francis, in +the possession of John C. Francis._ + +_MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE TUDORS," BY SIR WALTER BESANT. +PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, 1904_ + + * * * * * + +THE PARISH OF St. Giles in the Fields, LONDON. + +[Illustration] + +REFERENCES. + +_1. The first ST. GILES'S CHURCH._ + +_2. Remains of the Walls, antiently enclosing the Hospital precincts._ + +_3. Site of the Gallows and afterwards of the Pound_ + +_4. Way to Uxbridge now OXFORD ST._ + +_5._ ELDE-STRATE, _since called HOG-LANE_. + +_6._ LE-LANE, _now MONMOUTH ST._ + +_7. Site of the_ SEVEN DIALS, _formerly called COCK and PYE FIELDS_. + +_8._ ELM CLOSE _since called LONG-ACRE_. + +_9. Site of_ LINCOLNS-INN-FIELDS _formerly called FICKETS-FIELDS_. + +A VIEW _of part of the North-west Suburbs_ OF LONDON, _as they appeared, +anno 1570. Including the whole of the parish of ST. GILES in the FIELDS and +its immediate Neighbourhood, its_ PAROCHIAL CHURCHES _erected at different +periods &c._ + +_The part of the North West Suburbs of London, since called Saint Giles's +was about the time of the Norman Conquest an un-built tract of country, or +but thinly scattered with habitations.--The parish derived its name if not +its origin from the ancient Hospital for Lepers, which was built on the +site of the present church by MATILDA queen of King Henry I and dedicated +to Saint Giles: before which time there had been only a small Chapel or +Oratory on the spot.--It is described in old records as abounding with +gardens and dwellings in the flourishing times of Saint Giles's Hospital, +but declined in population and buildings after the suppression of that +establishment and remained but an inconsiderable village till the end of +the reign of Elizabeth, after which period it was rapidly built on and +became distinguished for the number and rank of its inhabitants. The great +increase of St. Giles's Parish occasioned the separation of St. Georges +Bloomsbury Parish from it anno 1734.--The above view (which is partly +supplied by the great Plan of London by Ralph Aggas, and partly from +authorities furnished by parochial documents) was taken anno 1570._ + +The Seal of the Antient Hospital of St. Giles. + + _pp. 190, 191._ + + * * * * * + +LONDINIUM FERACISSIMI ANGLIÆ REGNI METROPOLIS. + +[Illustration] + + * * * * * + +LONDON + +[Illustration] + +LONDON, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] + + * * * * * + +WESTMINSTER + +[Illustration] + +WESTMINSTER, 1593. BY JOHN NORDEN.] + + * * * * * + +LONDON + +[Illustration] + +CITY OF LONDON, 1658. BY FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT.] + + * * * * * + +LONDON IN 1741-5. BY JOHN ROCQUE. + +[Illustration] + +MAP ACCOMPANYING "LONDON IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY" BY SIR WALTER BESANT. +PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, LONDON.] + + * * * * * + +A LARGE AND ACCURATE MAP OF THE CITY OF LONDON + +Ichnographically Describing all the Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, Yards, +Churches, Halls and Houses, &c. Actually Surveyed and Delineated. By JOHN +OGILBY Esq; His Majesties Cosmographer. + +[Illustration] + +_For explanations of the references &c. on map see pp 356-396 of the book_ + +MAP ACCOMPANYING "_LONDON IN THE TIME OF THE STUARTS_" BY SIR WALTER +BESANT. PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON 1903] + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Maps of Old London, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40274 *** |