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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut,
+Illustrated by Helen M. James
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Rambles in Dickens' Land
+
+
+Author: Robert Allbut
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 23, 2012  [eBook #38652]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND***
+
+
+This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
+
+                       [Picture: Henley on Thames]
+
+
+
+
+
+                                RAMBLES IN
+                              DICKENS’ LAND
+
+
+                             BY ROBERT ALLBUT
+
+                           WITH INTRODUCTION BY
+                              GERALD BRENAN
+                           AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY
+                              HELEN M. JAMES
+
+                             [Picture: Logo]
+
+                                  LONDON
+                             S. T. FREEMANTLE
+                              217 PICCADILLY
+                                   1899
+
+
+
+
+NOTICE
+
+
+_The several Extracts from the Works of Dickens contained in this
+Manual_, _are used for the better illustration of the text_, _by kind
+permission of Messrs._ CHAPMAN & HALL.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                  Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON and Co.
+                         At the Ballantyne Press
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                                        PAGE
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS                                    vii
+INTRODUCTION                                              ix
+AUTHOR’S PREFACE                                         xxv
+                          RAMBLE I
+CHARING CROSS TO LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS                      1
+                         RAMBLE II
+LINCOLN’S INN TO THE MANSION HOUSE                        15
+                         RAMBLE III
+CHARING CROSS TO THAVIES INN, HOLBORN CIRCUS              31
+                         RAMBLE IV
+HOLBORN CIRCUS TO TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD                    43
+                          RAMBLE V
+BANK OF ENGLAND TO HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE                  67
+                         RAMBLE VI
+EXCURSION TO CHATHAM, ROCHESTER AND GADSHILL              82
+                         RAMBLE VII
+EXCURSION TO CANTERBURY AND DOVER                        103
+                        RAMBLE VIII
+EXCURSION TO HENLEY-ON-THAMES                            116
+                         RAMBLE IX
+BY GREAT EASTERN ROUTE FROM LONDON TO YARMOUTH           128
+                          RAMBLE X
+LONDON TO DORKING AND PORTSMOUTH                         141
+APPENDIX                                                 150
+INDEX                                                    167
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+HENLEY-ON-THAMES                          _Frontispiece_
+                                          _To face page_
+OLD ROMAN BATH                                        10
+THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP                                12
+FOUNTAIN COURT, TEMPLE                                21
+DOORWAY IN STAPLE INN                                 48
+THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL                               53
+TAVISTOCK HOUSE                                       56
+THE DRAWING-ROOM, DEVONSHIRE HOUSE                    61
+THE “LEATHER BOTTLE,” COBHAM                          84
+EASTGATE HOUSE, ROCHESTER                             89
+RESTORATION HOUSE, ROCHESTER                          90
+GADSHILL PLACE                                        99
+THE HOME OF AGNES                                    112
+THE “KING’S HEAD,” CHIGWELL                          129
+THE “GREAT WHITE HORSE,” IPSWICH                     132
+DICKENS’ BIRTHPLACE                                  145
+“THE SPANIARDS,” HAMPSTEAD HEATH                     152
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+It is one of the magic legacies left by the great romancers, that the
+scenes and characters which they described should possess for most of us
+an air of reality, so convincing as sometimes to put staid history to the
+blush.  The novelist’s ideals become actual to the popular mind; while
+commonplace truth hides itself among its dry-as-dust records, until some
+curious antiquary or insistent pedant drags it forth to make a nine days’
+wonder.  We sigh over “Juliet’s Tomb” in spite of the precisians, sup in
+the inn kitchen at Pennaflor with Gil Blas at our elbow, and shudder
+through the small hours outside the haunted House of the Black Cat in
+Quaker Philadelphia.  At Tarascon they show you Tartarin’s oriental
+garden; and you must hide the irrepressible smile, for Tartarin is
+painfully real to these good cap-shooters.  The other day an illustrated
+magazine published pictures of Alexander Selkirk’s birthplace, and
+labelled them “The Home of Robinson Crusoe.”  The editor who chose that
+caption was still under the spell of Defoe.  To him, as to the vast
+majority, Crusoe the imaginary seemed vividly real, while the
+flesh-and-blood Selkirk was but a name.  And if you have that catholic
+sympathy which is the true test of the perfect lover of romance, read
+“David Copperfield” once again, and then, by way of experiment, spend an
+afternoon in Canterbury.  You will find yourself expecting at one moment
+to see Mr. Micawber step jauntily out of the Queen’s Head Inn, at another
+to catch a glimpse of the red-haired Heep slinking along North Lane to
+his “’umble dwelling.”  You will probably meet a dozen buxom “eldest Miss
+Larkinses,” and obnoxious butcher-boys—perhaps even a sweet Agnes
+Wickfield, or a Miss Betsy Trotwood driving in from Dover.  And, above
+all, you will certainly enjoy yourself, and thank your gods for Charles
+Dickens.
+
+Mr. Would-be Wiseman may affect to sneer at our pilgrimages to this and
+other places connected with the imaginary names of fiction; but he must
+recognise the far-reaching influence for good exercised by symbols and
+associations over the human mind.  The sight of a loved home after many
+years—the flutter of one’s country’s flag in foreign lands—these things
+touch keenly our better nature.  In a like manner is the thoughtful man
+impressed when he treads a pathway hallowed by the writings of some
+favourite poet or romancer.  The moral lesson which the author intended
+to convey, his insight into character or loving eye for Nature’s
+beauties, and many exquisite passages from his books appeal to us all the
+more, when we recall them in the very rooms where they were written—among
+the gloomy streets or breezy hills which he has filled with his
+inventions.  Says Washington Irving in his essay on Stratford: “I could
+not but reflect on the singular gift of the poet; to be able thus to
+spread the magic of his mind over the very face of Nature; to give to
+things and places a charm and character not their own, and to turn this
+‘working-day’ world into a perfect fairyland.  He is indeed the true
+enchanter, whose spell operates, not upon the senses, but upon the
+imagination and the heart.  Under the wizard influence of Shakespeare I
+had been walking all day in a complete delusion. . . .  I had been
+surrounded with fancied beings; with mere airy nothings conjured up by
+poetic power; yet which, to me, had all the charm of reality.  I had
+heard Jaques soliloquise beneath his oak; had beheld the fair Rosalind
+and her companion adventuring through the woodlands; and, above all, had
+been once more present in spirit with fat Jack Falstaff and his
+contemporaries, from the august Justice Shallow down to the gentle Master
+Slender and the sweet Anne Page.  Ten thousand honours and blessings on
+the bard who has thus gilded the dull realities of life with innocent
+illusions.”  Wherefore, in spite of the sneers of Master Would-be
+Wiseman, let us continue to make these pleasant pilgrimages; not alone
+for our own satisfaction and betterment, but also in memory of those who
+have opened before us so many delectable lands of fancy, and given us so
+many agreeable companions of the road.
+
+This volume, then, is the pilgrim’s guide to Dickens’ Land—the loving
+topography of that fertile and very populous region.  No far away foreign
+country is Dickens’ Land.  It lies at our doors; we may explore it when
+we choose, with never a passport to purchase nor a Custom House to fear.
+The sojourner in London can scarce look from his windows without
+beholding scores of its interesting places.  To parody that passage which
+describes Mr. Pickwick’s outlook into Goswell Street—Dickens’ Land is at
+our feet; Dickens’ Land is on our right hand as far as the eye can reach;
+Dickens’ Land extends on our left, and the opposite side of Dickens’ Land
+is over the way.  Nor do the bounds of this genial territory confine
+themselves to London alone.  Outlying portions spread north and south,
+east and west, over England.  There is even, as Sala showed, a Dickens’
+quarter in Paris; and we have unexpectedly encountered small colonies of
+Dickens’ Land across the wide Atlantic.  But the best of it lies close to
+the great heart of the world—in London, or in the counties thereabout;
+and if “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” succeeds in guiding its readers with
+pleasure and profit over this storied ground, it will have faithfully
+fulfilled its mission.
+
+Trouble has not been spared to make this topography accurate as well as
+entertaining.  Mr. Weller the younger, with all his “extensive and
+peculiar” knowledge of London—Mr. Weller the elder and his brothers of
+the whip, with _their_ knowledge of post-roads and coaching inns, could
+hardly have identified the various localities more clearly than the
+compiler has done.  Wherever doubts and disputes arise—as in regard to
+the site of the “Old Curiosity Shop”—all sides of the case are given, and
+the reader is asked to sum up the arguments and judge for himself.  In
+nearly every instance a quotation is offered from the author, by means of
+which the pilgrim is enabled to refresh his memory and bring his own
+recollections of the book to bear upon the question of the site.  These
+quotations will be found to act admirably as aids to memory, and to
+obviate the necessity of carrying a whole library of Dickens about on
+one’s rambles.  Take, for example, the excerpts from “David Copperfield”
+in connection with the visit to Dover.  The facetious answers of the
+boatmen to David when, sitting ragged and forlorn in the Dover Market
+Place, he inquires for his aunt’s house, bring back at a single touch the
+whole sad story of the boy’s tramp from London to the coast.  It does not
+require much imagination to picture him sitting there “on the step of an
+empty shop,” with his weary, pinched face and his “dusty sunburnt,
+half-clothed figure,” while the sea-faring folk (lineal forbears of those
+who frequent the place to-day) made mock of him with their clumsy japes,
+until at length happened by the friendly fly-driver, who showed him how
+to reach the residence of the old lady who “carries a bag—bag with a good
+deal of room in it—is gruffish, and comes down upon you, sharp.”  It is
+easy, too, with the help of our guide, to follow the shivering child
+along the cliffs to Miss Trotwood’s—nay, to identify the “very neat
+little cottage, with cheerful bow-windows,” where that good soul looked
+after Mr. Dick, and defended her “immaculate grass-plot” against
+marauding donkeys.  It is this present writer’s privilege to know a
+charming elderly lady who boasts of Dover as her birthplace, and who,
+when she has exhausted the other lions of that town, is accustomed to
+close her remarks with the statement that she “lived for years within a
+stone’s-throw of Miss Betsy Trotwood’s cottage.”  Occasionally the
+Superior Person (who, alas, is rarely absent nowadays!) points out with a
+smile of tolerance that neither Miss Trotwood nor yet her house ever
+existed save in the novelist’s brain.  Whereupon this charming old lady
+shakes her finger testily at the transgressor, and exclaims, “It is quite
+evident that you have never lived in Dover.  Miss Betsy Trotwood a myth,
+indeed!  Let me tell you that my own mother knew the dear woman well—yes,
+and that delightful Mr. Dick too; and she remembered seeing Mr. Dickens
+drive up in a fly from the railway station to visit them.  Of course
+their names were not ‘Trotwood’ and ‘Dick’ at all; it would never have
+done for Mr. Dickens to put them in his book under the real names,
+particularly as Mr. Dick was related to many good families in that part
+of Kent.  I have even a dim recollection of seeing Miss Trotwood being
+wheeled about in a bath-chair when I was a very little girl and she a
+very old woman.  Myth, indeed!  Why, there are old men in Dover now who
+were warned off the grass-plot by David Copperfield’s aunt when they were
+donkey-boys.”  The animation of the speaker shows that she believes
+everything she says.  Perhaps a lady possessing the characteristics of
+Miss Betsy did once upon a time inhabit the cottage in Dover.  Perhaps
+there was a real Mr. Dick.  Otherwise these recollections are but another
+example of that hypnotism exercised over posterity by the great
+romancers, to which allusion has already been made.
+
+Again, the many references and the quotations made from several of
+Dickens’ works, illustrative of the Temple and the Lincoln’s Inn
+quarter—(pages 2 to 25 in the ensuing “Rambles”)—are certain to be
+appreciated by the Rambler.  With their assistance he can summon back to
+his memory the tender love story of Ruth Pinch, and so dream away a happy
+hour in peaceful Fountain Court; follow in fancy Maypole Hugh and the
+illustrious Captain Sim Tappertit as they ascended the stairs to Sir John
+Chester’s chambers in Paper Buildings; stroll thoughtfully along King’s
+Bench Walk with the spirit of Sidney Carton; and, in the purlieus of
+Chancery Lane, review the legal abuses of the past—(perhaps even some of
+those that survive to-day)—reflect upon “Jarndyce and Jarndyce,” or upon
+the banished sponging-houses of this district, and once more admit that
+Dickens the great novelist was also Dickens the great reformer.
+
+An important feature of “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” will be found in the
+exhaustive references to Dickens’ own haunts and homes, and the haunts
+and homes of many of his relatives and friends.  Naturally, these are in
+numerous cases intimately bound up with the creations of his novels, for
+Dickens did not “write out of an inkwell,” but looked for inspiration to
+real life and real scenes.  At Portsmouth our volume guides you to the
+house where he was born, and to the old church register wherein the
+christening is entered of—(how strangely the full name sounds!)—“Charles
+John Huffham Dickens.”  But the same venerable seaport is thronged with
+memories of Nicholas Nickleby and his player-friends, Miss Snevellicci,
+the Crummles family, poor Smike and the rest.  It is interesting to
+remember that an American writer once suggested the possibility that
+Dickens had obtained Nickleby’s experiences as an actor from personal
+adventures with a travelling “troupe” during his youth.  This is not
+impossible, although Forster makes no mention of such an adventure; the
+early years of Dickens are by no means fully accounted for, and it is
+certain that the stage had always a great fascination for him.
+
+Back of old Hungerford Stairs, behind what is now Charing Cross Station,
+you may visit the spot where the two boys—the real and the
+imaginary—Charles Dickens and David Copperfield spent so many hours while
+working for a scant pittance in that “crazy old house with a wharf of its
+own abutting on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when it
+was out, and literally overrun with rats.”  Gadshill, where Dickens lived
+and died, is on the very borders of historic Rochester, teeming with
+reminders of “Edwin Drood,” not to say of the genial Pickwick and his
+companions.  Of Furnival’s Inn where “Pickwick” was written, and where
+its author spent the first months of his married life, only the site
+remains; but these “Rambles” will help you to find all, or nearly all, of
+his other homes, even to that last home of all—the grave in Westminster
+Abbey, in which he was laid on the 14th of June 1870.  His friends’
+houses too, and the scores of spots noteworthy by reason of association
+with him personally, you will be given an opportunity of visiting if you
+follow this careful _cicerone_.  At No. 58 Lincoln’s Inn Fields still
+stands Forster’s house, where, in 1844, Dickens read “The Chimes” to
+Carlyle, Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and others, and which is also utilised
+in “Bleak House” to supply a model for the dwelling-place of Mr.
+Tulkinghorn.  The office of _Household Words_, founded by Dickens, is now
+part of the Gaiety Theatre.  The old taverns about Hampstead, whither he
+loved to resort for a friendly flagon “and a red-hot chop,” are much as
+they were in the novelist’s day, save in one regrettable instance where
+the proprietor has preferred, in order to cater to an unappreciative
+class, to disfigure his inn into a mere modern public-house of the
+conventional type, such that Dickens, who loved the place when it was
+old-fashioned and comfortable, would utterly disown now.  The ancient
+“Spaniards,” however, is much the same as it was in the days of the
+Gordon riots, when the then host of the quaint little tavern saved Lord
+Mansfield’s country house at Caen Wood by allowing the rioters to
+devastate his cellars, while he privily sent for the Guards.  The
+reckless waste of liquor on that occasion is said to have suggested to
+Dickens the scene in “Barnaby Rudge,” where John Willet watches the sack
+of his beloved “Maypole” and sees his cellars drained of their best, as
+he lies bound and helpless in the bar.  That the novelist frequently
+visited the “Spaniards,” the old records of the house can show; and in
+“Pickwick” he makes it the scene of a memorable tea-party, attended by
+Mrs. Bardell, just before those “sharp practitioners,” Dodson and Fogg,
+caused the injured lady’s arrest.  The “Bull and Bush,” another old
+Hampstead inn much frequented of Dickens, also exists unharmed by the
+“renovator.”  And while we are upon the subject of inns known to our
+author, let us not forget the “Maypole” itself, here shown to be the
+“King’s Head” at Chigwell.  Dickens was in ecstasies over the “King’s
+Head” and the surrounding neighbourhood, when a chance visit disclosed to
+him their attractions; and the letters which he wrote to his friends at
+this period are full of Chigwell and its picturesque hostelry.  Little
+wonder, therefore, that he afterwards made them famous in “Barnaby
+Rudge.”  The pilgrim will not be disappointed in the “King’s Head” of
+to-day, if he accepts the good advice offered by the compiler of these
+“Rambles,” _i.e._ to take his ideal of the place from Dickens’ own
+description rather than from the elaborate drawing of Cattermole.  He may
+perhaps notice that in “Barnaby Rudge” no hint is conveyed of the close
+proximity of Chigwell church, which is simply across the road.  Doubtless
+this is a sign of the novelist’s artistic sense.  To have his “Maypole”
+windows looking directly into the graveyard would have detracted from
+that air of warmth and conviviality with which he wished to endow his
+rare old inn.  In most other respects the description exactly fits the
+“King’s Head” as it must have been in “No Popery” times—as it is with
+little alteration to-day.  The trim green sward at the rear—once
+evidently the bowling-green—is a famous resting-place in summer; and in
+one of the small arbours Dickens is said to have written during his stay
+here.  The village, although showing signs of the approach of that fell
+barbarian the Essex builder, is still sufficiently picturesque and
+old-world to keep one’s illusions alive.  There is a grammar school at
+Chigwell, the boys of which are learned in neighbouring Dickens’ lore.
+If you are credulous—as it becomes a pilgrim to be—these grammarians will
+show you John Willet’s tomb in the churchyard, and Dolly Varden’s path
+with the real Warren, on the skirts of Hainault Forest, at the farther
+end of it.  Both in Chigwell and Chigwell Row some village worthies are
+still to be met with who have conversed with Charles Dickens and the
+kindred spirits that came hither in his company.  At the “King’s Head,”
+if Mr. Willet’s successor be agreeable, one may lunch or sup in the
+Dickens’ Room, also held to have been the chamber in which Mr. Haredale
+and the elder Chester held their memorable interview.
+
+Some other inns to which Dickens is known to have resorted are: the
+“Bull” at Rochester, the “Leather Bottle” at Cobham, and the “Great White
+Horse” at Ipswich—all with Pickwickian associations; the “Old Cheshire
+Cheese” in Fleet Street, and the “George and Dragon” at Canterbury.  To
+many minor taverns in London he was also a frequent visitor, for he
+sought his characters in the market-place rather than in the study.  His
+signature, with the familiar flourish underneath, is treasured in hotel
+registers not a few, and it is esteemed a high honour to be permitted to
+slumber in the “Dickens’ Room.”
+
+To all and each of these places “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” leads the way,
+if the reader chooses to follow.  A notable advantage of these rambles is
+the ease with which they may be undertaken.  An ordinary healthy man or
+woman may set forth without apprehension in the author’s footsteps from
+the beginning to the end of any particular journey which he describes,
+and even the invalid may saunter through a “Ramble” without fatigue.
+Conveyances are only needed to bring the pilgrim to the starting-point of
+the voyage, and in several instances even these aids to locomotion may be
+dispensed with altogether when the sightseer is one after Dickens’ own
+heart—a sturdy pedestrian.  By pursuing the routes indicated, there is no
+reason why a Grand Tour of Dickens’ Land should not be made by easy
+stages and at slight cost.  Or the pilgrim may pick out some particular
+trip, when leisure and chance carry him in that direction.  The volume is
+in truth a serviceable guide-book, leading its clients by the best ways,
+and even informing them where, when sight-seeing is over, a place may be
+found for rest, refreshment, and reflection.  And it is happier than most
+guide-books in that it is never called upon to describe the stupid and
+uninteresting, which have no existence in Dickens’ Land.
+
+Into Dickens’ Land, therefore, my masters, an you will and when you will!
+The high-roads thither are always open, the lanes and by-paths are free
+for us to tread.  He that found out this rare world has made it fully
+ours.  Let us visit our inheritance, or revisit it, if that be the better
+word.  Let us make real the scenes we have read of and dreamt of—peopling
+them with the folk of Dickens, so that familiar faces shall look upon us
+from familiar windows, familiar voices greet us as we pass.  Shall we
+travel abroad in the fashion of the corresponding committee of the
+Pickwick Club?  Then here is this book, with a wealth of shrewd
+information between its covers, ready to be our own particular Samuel
+Weller—to wear our livery, whether of sadness or of joy—to point out to
+us the sights and the notabilities, to be garrulous when we look for
+gossip, and silent when our mood is for silence—to act, in short, as that
+useful individual whom we all “rayther want,” “somebody to look arter us
+when we goes out a-wisitin’.”
+
+Where, if you please, shall we “wisit” first?  It is hard to choose,
+since there is so much to choose from.  We may ramble about London town,
+where, like Mr. Weller, our guide is “werry much at home.”  If so, we are
+sure to encounter a host of old cronies.  Perhaps we shall see the great
+Buzfuz entering court, all in his wig and silk, nodding with lofty
+condescension to his struggling brother, Mr. T. Traddles, which latter is
+bringing “Sophy and the girls” to set Gray’s Inn a-blooming.  Or Tom
+Pinch going towards Fountain Court to meet the waiting Ruth.  Or David
+Copperfield joyously ushering J. Steerforth into his rooms in the
+Adelphi.  Or Captain Cuttle steering for the sign of the “Wooden
+Midshipman,” which he may eventually find (and make a note of) at its new
+moorings in the Minories.  Or Dick Swiveller, poor soul, loafing to his
+dingy lodgings.  Or that precious pair, Bob Sawyer and Benjamin Allen,
+startling the sullen repose of Lant Street with bacchanalian revelry.
+
+And, if the London Dickens’ Land palls, doth not this most inviting
+country stretch to all points of the compass?  Northward goes yonder
+well-appointed coach, whereof the driver has just been escorted from a
+certain public-house in Portugal Street by a mottle-faced man, in company
+with two or three other persons of stout and weather-beaten aspect—the
+driver himself being stouter and more weather-beaten than all.  Let us
+take the box-seat by his side, and lead him on to talk of “shepherds in
+wolves’ clothing,” until presently he tools us into Ipswich, pulling up
+under the sign of that “rapacious animal” the Great White Horse.  In
+Ipswich we may catch a glimpse of a mulberry-coloured livery slinking by
+St. Clement’s Church, and guess therefrom that one Alfred Jingle is here
+at his old game of laying siege to the hearts of susceptible females with
+money.  Here, too, behind that green gate in Angel Lane, resides the
+pretty housemaid soon to become Mrs. Sam Weller.  But we must not linger
+in Ipswich.  Yarmouth lies before us, with its phantom boat-house still
+upturned on the waste places towards the sea, with Little Em’ly, and the
+Peggottys, and with Mr. Barkis waiting in the Market Place to jog us out
+to sleepy “Blunderstone.”
+
+Back again in London, there is another coach-of-fancy prepared to take us
+into Kent, from the yard of the Golden Cross.  Four gentlemen—one a
+beaming, spectacled person in drab shorts—are outside passengers for
+Rochester.  And see, here is the ubiquitous Jingle again, clambering to
+the roof with all his worldly goods wrapped up in a brown paper parcel.
+“Heads—heads—take care of your heads,” he cries, as we rumble under the
+old archway; and then, hey! for hopfields and cherry orchards, for
+“mouldy old cathedrals” in “Cloisterham” or Canterbury, for jolly Kentish
+yeomen and bright-eyed maids of Kent. . . .  Who was that wan-faced,
+coatless urchin we passed just now in a whirl of chalky dust?  His name
+is Copperfield, and he is on his way to Dover.  And is not that Mr.
+Wardle driving his laughing women-folk to the review?  And again, yonder
+on the brown common, by the Punch and Judy show, there is a grey old man,
+pillowing in his loving arms a little blue-eyed girl.  These, too, we
+know; and our hearts go out to them, for who of us is there that has not—
+
+    “. . . with Nell, in Kentish meadows,
+    Wandered, and lost his way”?
+
+Of introduction there is no more to be said.  The book itself lies open
+before you; and at your own sweet will you may ramble with it, high and
+low, through all the land of Dickens.
+
+                                                                     G. B.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The great majority of English readers—on both sides of the Atlantic—claim
+personal acquaintance with “Samivel” Weller, Mark Tapley, Oliver Twist,
+and many more besides: the old companions of our schoolboy days.  We
+cherish pleasant remembrance of the familiar “green leaves” of Dombey,
+David Copperfield, and the rest, as they first afforded us their monthly
+quota of interest and enjoyment; and have always maintained intimate
+relations with Captain Cuttle, Tom Pinch, Mr. Peggotty, and the more
+recent _dramatis personæ_ of the works of Dickens.  We sympathise with
+Florence, Agnes, and Esther as with sisters, and keep corners of our
+hearts sacred to the memory of Little Nell, Paul Dombey, and the
+child-wife Dora.
+
+The creations of “bonnie Prince Charlie” have thus become veritable
+“household words”; part and parcel of our home associations, instinct
+with personality and life.  We never think of them as the airy nothings
+of imaginative fiction, but regard them as familiar friends, having “a
+local habitation and a name” amongst us; with whose cheerful acquaintance
+we could ill afford to part, and who bear us kindly company on the hot
+and dusty highway of our daily lives.
+
+Charles Dickens was essentially a Londoner, always having a fond regard
+for the highways and by-ways of this great Metropolis, and confessedly
+deriving his inspiration from the varied phases of Town life and Society.
+We accordingly find that the main incidents and characters of his novels
+have here their _mise en scène_.
+
+In homage to the genius of his favourite Author, the writer of the
+following pages has endeavoured to localise many of the more familiar
+associations of the great Novelist with as much exactitude as may be
+possible; but it must be remembered that London has undergone
+considerable alteration and reconstruction, during the last fifty years.
+
+Thus far reads the original Preface to this Work, as written thirteen
+years since; the first (and smaller) edition of which was published in
+1886, under the title of _Rambles in London with Charles Dickens_.  The
+author now begs to thankfully acknowledge its favourable reception,
+generously accorded by the Press in particular, and the reading-world in
+general.
+
+The present arrangement of the book includes some important additions as
+well as considerable revision, the latter being rendered necessary by the
+_disappearance_ of many houses and buildings in the course of intervening
+years, and the steady progress of Metropolitan improvements.  Thus it
+comes to pass that only the memory of what has been remains, in regard to
+many of these Dickensian localities and landmarks; and it has been the
+object of the author (1899) to indicate the former whereabouts of these
+old places, as heretofore existent.  Especially in the Strand and
+neighbourhood (Ramble I.), as well as in Chancery Lane and Holborn
+(Rambles II. and IV.), many alterations have taken place, and another
+London is springing up around a younger generation, not known to Dickens.
+Our Author says (in _Martin Chuzzlewit_), “Change begets change; nothing
+propagates so fast”: and the London of to-day, and the activities of our
+Metropolitan County Council, at the close of this nineteenth century,
+afford striking testimony to the truth of the aphorism, “The old order
+changeth, giving place to new.”
+
+The _Pall Mall Magazine_, July 1896, contains a contribution by Mr. C.
+Dickens, junr.—“Notes on Some Dickens’ Places and People”—in which he
+deprecates the endeavours of those inquirers who have attempted any
+localisation of these places.  “It is true,” says he, “that many of the
+places described in Charles Dickens’s books were suggested by real
+localities or buildings, but the more the question comes to be examined,
+the more clear it is that all that was done with the prototype, was to
+use it as a painter or a sculptor uses a sketch, and that, under the hand
+of the writer and in the natural process of evolution, it has grown, in
+almost every case, into a finished picture, with few, if any, very
+salient points about it to render its origin unmistakable.”  He also
+quotes, with emphatic approval, from a review of Mr. P. Fitzgerald’s
+_Bozland_, then recently published: “Dickens, like Turner in the sister
+art of painting—like all real artists indeed—used nature, no doubt, but
+used it as being his slave and in no wise his master.  He was not content
+simply to reproduce the places, persons, things that he had seen and
+known.  He passed them through the crucible of his imagination, fused
+them, re-combined their elements, changed them into something richer and
+rarer, gave them forth as products of his art.  Are we not doing him some
+disservice when we try to reverse the process?”  “With these words I most
+cordially agree.—CHARLES DICKENS THE YOUNGER.”
+
+The author of this book would submit that the attempt to preserve the
+memory of these localities in association with their original use by “the
+Master,” does _not_ “reverse the process”; but, rightly considered, may
+help the reader to a better comprehension of the genius and method of
+Dickens.  The dictum of the Rev. W. J. Dawson, given a few years since in
+_The Young Woman_ (referring to a previous edition of this Work), is
+worth consideration: “The book casts a new light upon Dickens’s methods
+of work, and shows us how little he left to invention, and how much he
+owed to exact observation.”  And in this connection there may be quoted
+the opinion of Sir Walter Besant, who published an appreciative article
+in _The Queen_, 9th May 1896, anent these selfsame “Rambles,” which thus
+concludes: “With this information in your hand, you can go down the
+Strand and view its streets from north to south with increased
+intelligence and interest.  I am not certain whether peopling a street
+with creations of the imagination is not more useful—it is certainly more
+interesting—than with the real figures of the stony-hearted past.”
+
+The writer, therefore, still believes that such a Dickensian Directory as
+is now prepared will be found a valuable practical guide for those who
+may desire to visit the haunts and homes of these old friends, whose
+memory we cannot “willingly let die;” and to recall the many interests
+connected with them by the way.
+
+Though not professing to be infallible, he begs to assure those whom it
+may concern that his information—gleaned from many sources—has been
+collected _con amore_ with carefulness and caution; and he ventures to
+hope that his book may be of service to many Metropolitan visitors, as
+indicating (previous to the coming time when the New Zealander shall
+meditate over the ruins of London) some few pleasant “Rambles in Dickens’
+Land.”
+
+                                                                     R. A.
+
+LONDON, _September_ 20, 1899.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE I
+_Charing Cross to Lincoln’s Inn Fields_
+
+
+The Golden Cross; Associations with Pickwick and Copperfield—Craven
+Street; Residence of Mr. Brownlow—Charing Cross Terminus—Hungerford
+Stairs and Market; Lamert’s Blacking Manufactory; Micawber’s Lodgings;
+Mr. Dick’s Bedroom—No. 3 Chandos Street; Blacking Warehouse—Bedfordbury;
+“Tom All-Alone’s”—Buckingham Street; Copperfield’s Chambers—The Adelphi
+Arches—The Adelphi Hotel; Snodgrass and Emily Wardle—“The
+Fox-under-the-Hill”; Martin Chuzzlewit and Mark Tapley—The Residence of
+Miss La Creevy—Offices of _Household Words_ and _All the Year
+Round_—Covent Garden Market; Hummums and Tavistock Hotels, associated
+with “Great Expectations,” etc.—Bow Street—Old Bow Street Police Court;
+“The Artful Dodger”—Covent Garden Theatre—Broad Court; Mr.
+Snevellicci—St. Martin’s Hall; Dickens’s First London Readings—Russell
+Court; Nemo’s Burial Place—Clare Court; Copperfield’s Dining-Rooms—Old
+Roman Bath; Mrs. Lirriper’s Lodgings—St. Clement Danes—Portsmouth Street;
+“The Old Curiosity Shop”—The Old George the Fourth; “The Magpie and
+Stump”—Portugal Street; “The Horse and Groom”; Mr. Tony Weller and his
+Legal Adviser—Lincoln’s Inn Fields; Mr. John Forster’s House; Residence
+of Mr. Tulkinghorn.
+
+Starting from CHARING CROSS POST OFFICE as a convenient centre, and
+taking an eastward course up the Strand, we immediately reach, on the
+left-hand (north) side—a few doors from the Post Office—The Golden Cross
+Hotel.  Sixty years since this establishment was one of the principal
+Coaching Houses of the Metropolis.  It was the starting-point of the
+Rochester Coach, by which, on May 13, 1827, _Mr. Pickwick_ and his
+friends commenced their travels.  Driving by cab from the vicinity of
+that gentleman’s residence in Goswell Street, here it was that the
+pugnacious cabman, having mistaken the purpose of Mr. P.’s note-book,
+committed assault and battery upon the four Pickwickians, “sparring away
+like clockwork,” from which unexpected attack they were rescued by the
+redoubtable _Mr. Alfred Jingle_.  In those days there was an arched
+entrance leading from the Strand beneath the front of the hotel to the
+coach-yard behind.  Hence Mr. Jingle’s warning to his new
+acquaintances—“Heads, heads; take care of your heads!” which
+recommendation was followed by the first recorded anecdote as given by
+that loquacious pretender—
+
+    “Terrible place—dangerous work—other day—five children—mother—tall
+    lady, eating sandwiches—forgot the arch—crash—knock—children look
+    round—mother’s head off—sandwich in her hand—no mouth to put it
+    in—head of a family off—shocking—shocking.”
+
+This coach-yard and its entrance existed until the days of _Copperfield_,
+who came to THE GOLDEN CROSS in the nineteenth chapter of his history,
+having just finished his education at Dr. Strong’s.  He arrived “outside
+the Canterbury Coach,” and here met _Steerforth_, his former schoolboy
+patron, who speedily arranged for his transference from No. 44, “a little
+loft over a stable,” to No. 72, a comfortable bedroom next his own.
+Here, says David, “I fell asleep in blissful condition . . . until the
+early morning coaches rumbling out of _the archway underneath_ made me
+dream of thunder and the gods.”  This entrance was abolished in 1851,
+giving place to a more convenient exterior arrangement and doorway; again
+remodelled, 1897.
+
+THE GOLDEN CROSS is again referred to in the Copperfield experience
+(chapter 40) as the place where David conferred with _Mr. Peggotty_, one
+snowy night, after their unexpected meeting opposite St. Martin’s Church
+(close at hand on the north, at the corner of St. Martin’s Lane), when
+_Martha_ listened at the door.
+
+    “In those days there was a side entrance” (Duncannon Street, now
+    appropriated by the London and North-Western Railway Company) “nearly
+    opposite to where we stood.  I pointed out the gateway, put my arm
+    through his, and we went across.  Two or three public rooms opened
+    out of the stable-yard; and looking into one of them, and finding it
+    empty, and a good fire burning, I took him in there.”
+
+Opposite the principal entrance of THE GOLDEN CROSS is Craven Street,
+leading to the Thames Embankment.  It now mainly consists of private
+hotels and boarding-houses, at which visitors to London may be
+conveniently accommodated on reasonable terms.  In the days of _Oliver
+Twist_ these were, for the most part, private houses; and here was MR.
+BROWNLOW’S RESIDENCE—taken after his removal from Pentonville—in which
+was the back parlour where full confession was extorted from _Monks_,
+_alias Edward Leeford_.  The house, No. 39 (now _Barnett’s Private
+Hotel_), centrally situated on the east side, is stated to have been
+assigned as the residence aforesaid.
+
+On the south side of the Strand we immediately reach the Charing Cross
+Terminus of the South-Eastern Railway, built on the site of old
+Hungerford Market.  At No. 30 Hungerford Stairs, at the back of this
+locality, Charles Dickens, when a lad, did duty at the Blacking
+Manufactory of a relative, by name James Lamert, at a salary of six or
+seven shillings a week, as his first employment in life.  It was the last
+house on the left-hand side of the way, a crazy, tumble-down old place
+abutting on the river.  Here his work was to cover and label the pots of
+paste-blacking.  To this episode of his youthful experience he refers in
+the history of “David Copperfield,” chapter 11, David becoming “a
+labouring hind” in the service of _Messrs. Murdstone and Grinby_.  In old
+Hungerford Market, too, was THE CHANDLER’S SHOP over which _Mr. Peggotty_
+slept on the night of his first arrival in London; the bedroom being
+afterwards appropriated by Mr. Dick.
+
+    “There was a low wooden colonnade before the door, which pleased Mr.
+    Dick mightily.  The glory of lodging over this structure would have
+    compensated him for many inconveniences. . . .  He was perfectly
+    charmed with his accommodation.  Mrs. Crupp had indignantly assured
+    him that there wasn’t room to swing a cat there; but, as Mr. Dick
+    justly observed, ‘You know, Trotwood, I don’t want to swing a cat.  I
+    never do swing a cat.  Therefore, what does that signify to me!’”—See
+    “Copperfield,” chapters 32 and 35.
+
+HUNGERFORD is also mentioned in the same book (chapter 57) as the place
+where, previous to their departure for Australia, the MICAWBER FAMILY had
+lodgings “in a little, dirty, tumble-down public-house, which in those
+days was close to the stairs, and whose protruding wooden rooms overhung
+the river.”
+
+By a parallel street near at hand (next turning on the left of the
+Strand—Agar Street) we come into Chandos Street, where are situated the
+large stores of the Civil Service Supply Association, which, during
+recent years, have been enlarged, extending westward in Chandos Street.
+This extension occupies the former site of No. 3, whilom a chemist’s
+shop, kept by a Mr. Wellspring.  Here, in the days that are gone, was
+established a second warehouse of Lamert’s blacking trade, the business
+being removed in course of time to this address; and here Dickens, with
+other lads, was often busily employed near the window.  They acquired
+such dexterity in finishing off the pots, that many persons would stand
+outside, looking on with interest at the performance.
+
+On the opposite side of Chandos Street is _Bedfordbury_—a northward
+thoroughfare leading to New Street, Covent Garden—on the right of which
+stands a range of five large five-storied blocks known as _Peabody’s
+Buildings_.  These afford respectable accommodation for artizans.  This
+was the locality of Tom All-Alone’s, that wretched rookery of evil repute
+in the days of _Poor Joe_, as described in chapter 16 of “Bleak House.”
+But, in these degenerate times, the black, dilapidated streets and
+tumbling tenements have given place to wholesome dwellings, and the
+neighbourhood is associated with the name of a great American
+philanthropist.
+
+Returning to the south side of the Strand, we next come to Buckingham
+Street (turning on right, by No. 37), at the end house of which, on the
+right, facing the river, was the top set of chambers in the Adelphi,
+consisting of
+
+    “A little half-blind entry, where you could hardly see anything, a
+    little stone-blind pantry, where you could see nothing at all, a
+    sitting-room and a bedroom.”
+
+Here _David Copperfield_ for some time resided under the housekeeping
+supervision of Mrs. Crupp, and the residence was afterwards shared by
+_Miss Betsy Trotwood_.  At the next turning in the Strand—by No. 64, same
+side of the way—we arrive at Durham Street, which leads to the no
+thoroughfare of The Adelphi Arches, about and through which the lad
+Charles Dickens loved in his leisure time to roam.  David Copperfield
+says—
+
+    “I was fond of wandering about the Adelphi, because it was a
+    mysterious place, with those dark arches.  I see myself emerging one
+    evening from one of these arches, on a little public-house, close to
+    the river, with an open space before it, where some coal-heavers were
+    dancing.”
+
+Of this place more anon.
+
+Continuing our onward journey, we come to Adam Street (right-hand turning
+by No. 72), looking down which may be seen, at the corner of John Street,
+THE ADELPHI HOTEL.  This hotel was known in the days of Pickwick as
+Osborn’s Hotel, Adelphi.  To this establishment, it will be remembered,
+came _Mr. Wardle_, visiting London with his daughter Emily, after Mr.
+Pickwick’s release from the Fleet Prison, also accompanied by his trusty
+retainer, _the fat boy_, _Joe_.  The last plate but one in the book
+illustrates the plan adopted by _Mary_ when inducing that intelligent
+youth to observe a discreet silence as to the visit of Mr. Snodgrass to
+his young mistress at this hotel; and we may recollect the _contretemps_
+which afterwards took place here at dinner-time, involving the detention
+of the clandestine lover, and resulting in a very satisfactory
+_dénouement_.—See “Pickwick,” chapter 54.
+
+Passing the next block onwards, we arrive at the handsome frontage of the
+HOTEL CECIL.  In former days, at western corner of same, close to No. 75,
+there existed a narrow and precipitous passage which was formerly the
+approach to the halfpenny boats.  It led to a little public-house, “The
+Fox-under-the-Hill,” for a long time shut up and in ruinous
+condition—once situated on the water-side, the site of which is now
+covered by the west wing of the Hotel Cecil.
+
+This place is spoken of in Mr. Forster’s Biography as being one of our
+author’s _favourite localities_, and referred to in “Copperfield,” as
+before mentioned, in connection with the Adelphi Arches.  This, then, was
+doubtless the tavern at which _Martin Chuzzlewit_, _junr._, was
+accommodated, on his arrival in London, “in the humbler regions of the
+Adelphi;” and where he was unexpectedly visited by _Mark Tapley_, who
+then and there became his “nat’ral born servant, hired by fate,” and his
+very faithful friend.—See “Martin Chuzzlewit,” chapter 13.
+
+Farther onwards, on the same side, towards the centre of the Strand,
+there stood near Savoy Street the house which in all probability was the
+Residence of Miss La Creevy.  It will be recollected that Ralph Nickleby,
+visiting his relations at this address in the Strand, is described as
+stopping
+
+    “At a private door, about halfway down that crowded thoroughfare.”
+
+No. 111 was an old-fashioned house in just such a position, with a
+private door—a somewhat unusual convenience in the Strand.  A
+photographer’s case had, for many years, displaced the “large gilt frame
+screwed upon the street door,” in which Miss La Creevy aforetime
+displayed her painted miniatures.  The place has been pulled down,
+together with the adjoining house.  Handsome modern business premises are
+erected on the double site.—See “Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 2.
+
+We now cross to the north side of the Strand, and take the next turning
+on the left, _Wellington Street North_.  Passing the Lyceum Theatre, we
+may note, on the opposite side, the offices of the Gaiety Theatre, No.
+16.  For many years this was the Office of “Household Words”; this
+well-known miscellany being started under the conductorship of Charles
+Dickens, March 30, 1850.
+
+It was afterwards removed to No. 26, higher up, on the same side of the
+way, at which address the later issue of _All the Year Round_ was
+published, as conducted by Charles Dickens, the son.
+
+Proceeding a short distance onwards, and turning to the left, we come
+into the precincts of Covent Garden Market.  At the south corner of
+_Russell Street_ we may note the position of the old HUMMUMS HOTEL,
+mentioned in “Great Expectations” as the place where Pip slept, in
+accordance with the warning received from Mr. Wemmick—“Don’t go home.”
+
+The present establishment was erected on the site of the former hotel (as
+it stood in the days of Mr. Pip’s sojourn), 1892; on completion of the
+new Flower Market, THE TAVISTOCK HOTEL, Piazzas, on the north side of the
+market, was the house at which were held the fortnightly meetings of “The
+Finches of the Grove,” Herbert Pocket and Mr. Pip being members of the
+Club known by this appellation in the book above mentioned.  The end and
+aim of this institution seemed to be “that the members should dine
+expensively once a fortnight, to quarrel among themselves as much as
+possible after dinner, and to cause six waiters to get drunk on the
+stairs.”
+
+A general description of _Covent Garden_ will be found in “Little Dorrit”
+(chapter 14), and a graphic reference to “the seamy side” of this
+locality is contained in the pages of “Our Mutual Friend” (chapter 9,
+Book 4).
+
+Returning by Russell Street, we soon reach _Bow Street_, and on the left
+may observe an open space contiguous to the _Foreign Fruit Market_.  On
+this space there stood No. 4, in recent times occupied by Mr.
+Stinchcombe, costumier.  Some years since this was the situation of Bow
+Street Police Court, now removed to the handsome new building facing
+Covent Garden Theatre.  This, therefore, was the place at which the
+_Artful Dodger_, when committed for trial by the presiding magistrate,
+thus reserved his defence:—
+
+    “This ain’t the shop for justice; besides which my attorney is
+    a-breakfasting this morning with the Vice-President of the House of
+    Commons; but I shall have something to say elsevere, and so will he,
+    and so will a wery numerous and respectable circle of acquaintances,
+    as’ll make them beaks wish they’d never been born.”—See “Oliver
+    Twist,” chapter 43.
+
+At a short distance onwards, we may note Covent Garden Theatre, selected
+by David Copperfield as his first place of entertainment in London, after
+dinner at the Golden Cross Hotel—
+
+    “Being then in a pleasant frame of mind . . . I resolved to go to the
+    play.  It was Covent Garden Theatre that I chose; and there, from the
+    back of a centre box, I saw “Julius Cæsar” and the new pantomime.  To
+    have all those noble Romans alive before me, and walking in and out
+    for my entertainment, instead of being the stern taskmasters they had
+    been at school, was a most novel and delightful effect.”
+
+This theatre, as attended by David, was destroyed by fire March 4, 1856,
+six years after his autobiography was published, and afterwards rebuilt.
+
+Exactly opposite the façade of the theatre is Broad Court, past the new
+magisterial building above referred to.  This was the location given by
+_Mr. Snevellicci_ (at Portsmouth), on a convivial occasion, described in
+“Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 30), as his London address:—
+
+    “I am not ashamed of myself; Snevellicci is my name.  I’m to be found
+    in Broad Court, Bow Street, when I’m in town.  If I’m not at home,
+    let any man ask for me at the stage-door.”
+
+There is also historical reference to _Bow Street_ in “Barnaby Rudge,” as
+the place where “another boy was hanged,” after the suppression of the
+Gordon riots.
+
+Exactly facing the north end of Bow Street, which gives into Long Acre,
+is a large building, now a stationer’s warehouse, recently used as the
+Clergy Co-operative Stores.  Thirty-five years since this site was
+occupied by St. Martin’s Hall, in which Dickens gave his first series of
+paid readings in London (sixteen nights), under the management of Mr.
+Arthur Smith, 1858.  The hall was a short time afterwards burnt down, and
+the Queen’s Theatre was here erected in its stead by Mr. Wigan; which
+theatre was since converted to the commercial uses of the Clergy as
+aforesaid.
+
+Proceeding up _Long Acre_ to _Drury Lane_, we turn to the right, and in
+five minutes pass the back of Drury Lane Theatre.  The second turning on
+the same side is RUSSELL COURT, a narrow passage leading to Catherine
+Street.  The entire area between the two streets, for some distance, is
+cleared for building improvements, so that the indications immediately
+following refer to the past, and not practically to the present.  These
+things have been, but are not.
+
+In this court, about halfway on the right, was to be found (until 1897)
+the entrance to what was once the pauper Burial Ground where Captain
+Hawdon—known as _Nemo_ in the pages of “Bleak House”—was interred, and
+where Lady Dedlock was afterwards found dead at the gateway, she having
+fled from her husband, Sir Leicester, in despair, dreading the _exposé_
+threatened by Mr. Tulkinghorn.  It is also associated with _Poor Jo_, the
+crossing-sweeper.—See “Bleak House,” chapters 11 and 59.
+
+    “With houses looking on, on every side, save where a reeking little
+    tunnel of a court gives access to the iron gate—with every villainy
+    of life in action close on death, and every poisonous element of
+    death in action close on life—here, they lower our dear brother down
+    a foot or two: here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in
+    incorruption: an avenging ghost at many a sick bedside: a shameful
+    testimony to future ages, how civilisation and barbarism walked this
+    boastful island together.”
+
+This intermural graveyard was attached to the Church of St.
+Mary-le-Strand, and has been closed for many years.  The enclosure was
+converted into a recreation ground, and formally opened as such by Lady
+George Hamilton, May 19, 1886, on behalf of the Metropolitan Public
+Garden Association.  But the entire locality is changed, the “avenging
+ghost” has ceased to walk, and the “shameful testimony” has ended.
+
+At a short distance in Drury Lane, towards the Strand, we turn (left) by
+No. 106, into Clare Court, referred to in Forster’s Biography as
+follows—(C.D. _loq._):—
+
+    “Once, I remember tucking my own bread (which I had brought from home
+    in the morning) under my arm, wrapped up in a piece of paper like a
+    book, and going into the best dining-room in Johnson’s _a la mode_
+    beef-house in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a
+    small plate of _a la mode_ beef to eat with it.  What the waiter
+    thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all alone, I
+    don’t know, but I can see him now, staring at me as I ate my dinner,
+    and bringing up the other waiter to look.  I gave him a halfpenny,
+    and I wish now that he hadn’t taken it.”
+
+This episode of the author’s experience as a poor boy in London was
+reproduced in “David Copperfield,” chapter 11.  The dining-house
+mentioned then existed (1824) at No. 13 in the court, in a prominent
+corner position.  It has been unknown to fame for the last thirty years.
+
+Returning by Drury Court to the Strand, and passing on the south side of
+the church above mentioned, we turn by No. 162A into _Strand Lane_, where
+may be visited, at No. 5, The Old Roman Bath referred to by David
+Copperfield, who says, “In which I have had many a cold plunge.”  (See
+chapter 35.)  The bath itself is lined with white marble, and dates from
+the sixteenth century.  It is supplied from an old Roman reservoir
+adjoining, about 2000 years old.
+
+                      [Picture: The Old Roman Bath]
+
+Passing Surrey Street, just beyond, we come (next on the right) to
+_Norfolk Street_, in which there may be noted the former whereabouts of
+MRS. LIRRIPER’S LODGINGS; and we may here recall the pleasant
+associations connected with the Christmas numbers of _All the Year
+Round_, 1863 and 1864.  The houses in this street are not enumerated
+beyond forty-five, all told.  The figures 81, as given in the tale
+referred to, should be _reversed_; but sad to relate, No. 18—long
+standing as an old-fashioned boarding-house on the western side, below
+Howard Street—has disappeared, and certain modern buildings, offices,
+etc., recently erected, now occupy the old site.  At a short distance
+farther on, in a central position in the Strand, stands the church of St.
+Clement Danes.  It is of interest in this connection as the scene of Mrs.
+Lirriper’s wedding, some forty years previous to the narration of her
+business experience; and where she still retained “a sitting in a very
+pleasant pew, with genteel company, and her own hassock, being partial to
+evening service, not too crowded.”
+
+Retracing our steps, three minutes, to the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand,
+again leaving the Strand by _Newcastle_ and _Houghton Streets_, and
+turning left and right (leaving Clare Market on the left), we shortly
+arrive at _Portsmouth Street_, _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_.  At No. 14 will be
+found (for a short time only) a small old-fashioned house, on the front
+of which is painted an inscription, “The Old Curiosity Shop,
+_Immortalised by Charles Dickens_,” now occupied by Mr. H. Poole, dealer
+in wastepaper.  This is said to be the house assigned by the novelist for
+the residence of Little Nell and her grandfather, with whose pathetic
+history we are all familiar—
+
+    “One of those receptacles for old and curious things, which seem to
+    crouch in odd corners of this town, and to hide their musty treasures
+    from the public eye in jealousy and distrust.”
+
+It cannot, however, be regarded as absolutely certain that this
+particular house was the author’s intended “local habitation” for one of
+the best-known and loved of his creations.  The tale itself concludes
+with a reference to _Kit’s_ uncertainty as to the whereabouts of the
+place:—
+
+    “The old house had long ago been pulled down, and a fine broad road
+    was in its place.  At first he would draw with his stick a square
+    upon the ground to show them where it used to stand.  But he soon
+    became uncertain of the spot, and could only say it was thereabouts,
+    he thought, and that these alterations were confusing.”
+
+[A lady, personally acquainted with the great novelist, has informed the
+author that she was once taken by Mr. Dickens to No. 10 Green Street
+(approaching Leicester Square from the east)—at the corner of Green and
+Castle Streets, behind the National Gallery—the business of
+curiosity-dealing being then and there carried on.  Mr. Dickens himself
+localised this house as the home of little Nell, pointing out an inner
+room—divided from the shop by a glass partition—as her bedroom.  The
+premises are now rebuilt.]
+
+                    [Picture: The Old Curiosity Shop]
+
+At a short distance from this locality, and at an opposite angle of the
+street, there existed (until 1898) one of the old-fashioned taverns of
+the metropolis.  The house was noteworthy, with its overhanging front
+resting on rough wooden pillars, and was named _Old George IVth_.
+
+It is now replaced by a newly-built house of the same name, in modern
+style of plate glass, mahogany, and glitter.
+
+It is highly probable that the old tavern represented the location and
+character of “The Magpie and Stump,” the rendezvous of _Mr. Lowten_
+(Perker’s clerk) and other choice spirits in the days of Pickwick.  It is
+described in the Pickwickian history as being near Clare Market, at the
+back of New Inn, and to this position the “Old George IVth” will
+correspond.  Joe Miller, of jocular celebrity, was, aforetime, a
+frequenter of this establishment, when his quips “were wont to set the
+table in a roar.”  His seat was still shown in the bar of the old house.
+Dickens and Thackeray were also well remembered as visitors to this
+ancient hostelry.  There is now a “Magpie and Stump” in Fetter Lane, at
+some distance hence; but it is evident that Dickens transferred the name
+to a tavern in this neighbourhood.  It will be remembered that here Mr.
+Pickwick enjoyed an hour’s entertainment, listening to the legends of
+“those curious old nooks,” the Inns of London, as related by Jack
+Bamber—see “Pickwick,” chapter 21—also containing a description of the
+advertisements of the tavern, as then displayed therein.
+
+    “In the lower windows, which were decorated with curtains of a
+    saffron hue, dangled two or three printed cards, bearing reference to
+    Devonshire cyder and Dantzic spruce, while a large black board,
+    announcing in white letters to an enlightened public, that there were
+    500,000 barrels of double stout in the cellars of the establishment,
+    left the mind in a state of not unpleasing doubt and uncertainty as
+    to the precise direction in the bowels of the earth, in which this
+    mighty cavern might be supposed to extend.”
+
+_Dick Swiveller_ would doubtless occasionally patronise this
+establishment.  He lodged hereabouts “in the neighbourhood of Drury
+Lane;” but it is difficult to indicate any particular house which Dickens
+may have selected for his accommodation.
+
+Stretching eastward from this point is _Portugal Street_, famed in the
+same book as containing the Old Public House patronised by Mr. Tony
+Weller and his _confrères_ of the coach-driving persuasion.  This
+house—opposite the Insolvent Debtors’ Court—existed until a few years
+since, by name, “The Horse and Groom.”  It and many more besides, have
+now given place to a range of new offices and buildings in Elizabethan
+style, on the south side of the street (forming the north boundary of New
+Court), and the Insolvent Court has been recently appropriated to the
+uses of the Bankruptcy Court.  It will be remembered that it was here
+_Mr. Samuel Weller_ got into difficulties, and was hence consigned to the
+Fleet Prison at the instance of his father; the professional services of
+the suave _Mr. Solomon Pell_ being retained on that occasion.  Here also
+a select committee of friends assembled to assist at an oyster lunch and
+the proving of Mrs. Weller’s will, when Mr. Pell again conducted the
+business to the satisfaction of all concerned.—See “Pickwick,” chapters
+43 and 55.
+
+Returning through Portsmouth Street, we come into _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_;
+and, keeping on its western side—passing Sardinia Street, with its old
+archway, on the left—we may note Mr. John Forster’s House, No. 58.  At
+this house resided the friend and biographer of Dickens, and here our
+author was, of course, a frequent visitor.  On December the 2nd, 1844,
+Charles Dickens here first read his new Christmas book, “The Chimes,” to
+a select and critical audience, including Messrs. Forster, Maclise,
+Douglas Jerrold, Carlyle, Laman Blanchard, Fox, Stanfield, Harness, and
+Dyce.  The house is itself described in the pages of “Bleak House”
+(chapter 10) as the
+
+RESIDENCE OF MR. TULKINGHORN.
+
+    “In a large house, formerly a house of state, lives Mr. Tulkinghorn.
+    It is let off in sets of chambers now; and in those shrunken
+    fragments of its greatness, lawyers lie, like maggots in nuts.  But
+    its roomy staircases, passages, and antechambers still remain; and
+    even its painted ceiling, where Allegory in Roman helmet and
+    celestial linen sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers,
+    clouds, and big-legged boys, and makes the head ache, as would seem
+    to be Allegory’s object always, more or less.”
+
+As in the time spoken of, the house is still in legal possession, being
+let out as solicitors’ offices; but the old Allegory has disappeared
+beneath modern whitewash.  Within two minutes’ distance northward, the
+weary rambler may reach the central thoroughfare of HOLBORN, where
+(turning to the left), close at hand, will be found the _Holborn
+Restaurant_, at which Sam Weller’s advice on the subject of a “little
+dinner” (or luncheon) may be worth practical consideration:—
+
+    “Pair of fowls and a weal cutlet; French beans, ’taturs, tart, and
+    tidiness.”
+
+Certain it is that everything at this establishment will be found “werry
+clean and comfortable,” on reasonable terms.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE II
+_Lincoln’s Inn to the Mansion House_
+
+
+Lincoln’s Inn Hall; “Jarndyce and Jarndyce”—Old Square; Offices of Kenge
+and Carboy; Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin—Bishop’s Court; Miss Flite’s
+Lodging at Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse; Nemo; Tony Weevle—The Old
+Ship Tavern; “The Sol’s Arms”—Coavinses’ Castle—Mr. Snagsby’s Residence,
+Took’s Court, Cursitor Street—Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and
+Gridley—Tellson’s Bank, Fleet Street—The Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth
+Pinch and John Westlock); Garden Court (Pip’s Chambers); Pump Court
+(Chambers of the elder Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John
+Chester and Mr. Stryver, K.C.)—Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and
+Wrayburn—Bradley Headstone’s Look-out—Clifford’s Inn; John Rokesmith and
+Mr. Boffin—St. Dunstan’s Pump and Maypole Hugh—St. Dunstan’s Church; “The
+Chimes”—Bradbury and Evans, Bouverie Street—Office of the _Daily
+News_—Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher’s Rooms,–“Ye old Cheshire
+Cheese”—Farringdon, formerly Fleet, Market—Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and
+Sam Weller’s Imprisonment—Belle Sauvage Yard—London Coffee House; Arthur
+Clennam’s arrival—St. Paul’s Churchyard—Dean’s Court—Doctors’ Commons;
+Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins—“Bell Tavern”—Wood Street; Coach Office at
+which Pip first arrived—The London Stereoscopic Company; “Grip,” the
+Raven—Bow Church—The Guildhall; Bardell _v._ Pickwick—Grocers’ Hall
+Court—The Mansion House; References in “Barnaby Rudge,” “Christmas
+Carol,” and “Martin Chuzzlewit”—“Dombey and Son.”
+
+The Rambler now crosses Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and, on its eastern side,
+enters the precincts of _Lincoln’s Inn_, through an arched gateway, from
+Serle Street.  Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and
+Library on the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at
+old Lincoln’s Inn Hall, THE LORD HIGH CHANCELLOR’S COURT, with its
+central turret and lantern, bearing the initials of the reigning
+Treasurer, 1818, where Chancery suits were tried thirty years since.
+Here that _cause célèbre_, JARNDYCE and JARNDYCE, dragged “its slow
+length along” through the weary years, involving
+
+    “Bills, cross-bills, answers, rejoinders, injunctions, affidavits,
+    issues, references to masters, masters’ reports—mountains of costly
+    nonsense.”
+
+Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little _Miss Flite_, in
+her squeezed bonnet, carrying “her documents,” and
+
+    “Always expecting some incomprehensible judgment in her favour.”—See
+    “Bleak House,” chapter 1.
+
+The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the New Law
+Courts.  Hard by, on the north, passing through the cloisters of the
+Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn, we come into the enclosure of Old Square,
+LINCOLN’S INN, where the _Offices of Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ were
+situated.  Esther Summerson says:—
+
+    “We passed into sudden quietude, under an old gateway, and drove on
+    through a silent square, until we came to an odd nook in a corner,
+    where there was an entrance up a steep broad flight of stairs, like
+    an entrance to a church.”
+
+The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and Co.’s
+offices used to flourish in the north-west corner, where still the rising
+of the ground necessitates an exterior flight of steps.  The chambers of
+_Sergeant Snubbin_, counsel for the defence in “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,”
+were also located in this square, probably on the opposite side.
+
+Returning to Lincoln’s Inn, we may follow Esther Summerson’s directions,
+and visit the apartments of _Miss Flite_—
+
+    “Slipping us out of a little side gate, the old lady stopped most
+    unexpectedly in a narrow back street, part of some courts and lanes
+    immediately outside the wall of the inn, and said, ‘This is my
+    lodging.  Pray walk up!’”
+
+Thus, passing at the back of the Inn, and taking the next turning on the
+left, we arrive at Bishop’s Court, near at hand, a narrow, dark, and old
+passage leading to Chancery Lane.  On the left hand, nearest the Inn, was
+_Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse_, probably No. 3.  But during recent
+years, all the old houses of the court have been substituted by modern
+buildings, offices, and shops; so that the location only remains of the
+“Lord Chancellor,” and his place of business, yclept by the neighbours
+the “Court of Chancery.”  The old shop, at one time, possessed the
+private door and stairway leading to _Miss Flite’s lodging_.
+
+    “She lived at the top of the house, in a pretty large room, from
+    which she had a glimpse of the roof of Lincoln’s Inn Hall.”
+
+Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise _Nemo_, the law-writer, lived and
+died in a bare room on the second floor.  A notice may have been observed
+in the old shop window, “Engrossing and Copying.”  It will be remembered
+that this room was afterwards occupied by _Mr. Tony Weevle_, during whose
+tenancy it was decorated with a choice collection of magnificent
+portraits, being—
+
+    “Copper-plate impressions from that truly national work, the
+    Divinities of Albion, or Galaxy Gallery of British Beauty;
+    representing ladies of title and fashion, in every variety of smirk,
+    that art, combined with capital, is capable of producing.”
+
+Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short distance along
+Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of _Chichester Rents_, a modern
+warehouse (No. 7), recently erected on the site of “The Old Ship Tavern,”
+now _non est_, named in the pages of “Bleak House” _The Sol’s Arms_, it
+being the house at which _the Inquest was held_, following the death of
+_Nemo_, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the proffered
+evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the presiding coroner.
+
+    “Can’t exactly say; won’t do, you know.  We can’t take that in a
+    Court of Justice, gentlemen.  It’s terrible depravity.  Put the boy
+    aside.”
+
+The old tavern has given place to the exigencies of modern commerce
+(1897).  The ghost of _Little Swills_ may still linger in the
+neighbourhood, but the musical evenings of the past are silent, being now
+superseded by the prosaics of ordinary business.
+
+The real SOL’S ARMS still exists, _No._ 65 _Hampstead Road_, _N.W._, at
+the corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol’s Row.  Its name was
+derived from the “Sol’s Society,” whose meetings, held therein, were of a
+Masonic character.  It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the
+style and name of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as
+above.
+
+Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite the old
+gateway of Lincoln’s Inn, Cursitor Street, a thoroughfare leading
+eastward from the Lane.  It will be noticed that the houses in this
+street are comparatively of recent erection, and we may now look in vain
+for COAVINSES’ CASTLE, which has been swept away by the besom of modern
+destruction and improvement.  This old sponging-house flourished (in the
+days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site now
+occupied by _Lincoln’s Inn Chambers_, No. 1.
+
+At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a turning on
+the left to _Took’s Court_, referred to in “Bleak House” as _Cook’s
+Court_, in which was Mr. Snagsby’s Residence AND LAW STATIONER’S SHOP.
+The court is not a long one, and consists mainly of offices connected
+with the legal profession.  The location of Mr. Snagsby’s shop was at the
+central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by modern offices
+and stores.  “The little drawing-room upstairs” is described as
+commanding
+
+    “A view of Cook’s Court at one end (not to mention a squint into
+    Cursitor Street) and of Coavins’s, the Sheriff’s Officer’s, backyard
+    on the other.”
+
+The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared for the reception
+of the _Rev. Mr. Chadband_ (Chaplain-in-Ordinary to Mrs. Snagsby), who
+was “endowed with the gift of holding forth for four hours at a stretch.”
+On that occasion, it will be remembered that Poor Jo—brought to Cook’s
+Court by a police constable—was eloquently addressed by the reverend
+gentleman, but was not greatly edified by his admonitions.
+
+    “At this threatening stage of the discourse, Jo, who seems to have
+    been gradually going out of his mind, smears his right arm over his
+    face, and gives a terrible yawn.  Mrs. Snagsby indignantly expresses
+    her belief that he is a limb of the arch-fiend.”
+
+Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note _Bream’s
+Buildings_, as being the northern boundary of the former site of Symond’s
+Inn, which hence extended onward to No. 22.
+
+    “A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn, like a large dust-bin of
+    two compartments and a sifter.  It looks as if Symond were a sparing
+    man in his day, and constructed his inn of old building materials,
+    which took kindly to the dry rot, and to dirt, and all things
+    decaying and dismal, and perpetuated Symond’s memory with congenial
+    shabbiness.”
+
+This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position being now
+occupied by a large printer’s establishment and other offices.  Readers
+of “Bleak House” will remember that the professional chambers of _Mr.
+Vholes_ were here situated, and that _Richard Carstone_ and his young
+wife _Ada_ resided in the next house, in order that Richard might have
+his legal adviser close at hand.  Here occurred the early death of poor
+Richard; and we all cherish the remembrance of dear Ada’s wifely
+devotion, to which _Esther Summerson_ thus refers:—
+
+    “The days when I frequented that miserable corner which my dear girl
+    brightened can never fade in my remembrance.  I never see it, and I
+    never wish to see it now; I have been there only once since; but in
+    my memory there is a mournful glory shining on the place, which will
+    shine for ever.”
+
+Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we reach Bell
+Yard, leading to Fleet Street.  This place has been mentioned by Dickens
+as containing a “chandler’s shop, left-hand side,” where lodged
+_Gridley_, “the man from Shropshire,” and _Neckett_, the faithful
+servitor of Coavinses.  The name—Bell Yard—forms the heading of chapter
+15, “Bleak House,” which affords information of the Neckett
+family—_Charlie_, _Tom_, and the limp-bonneted _baby_.  For full details,
+reference should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written
+chapter as above.  Great alterations have been made, and are still being
+made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the New Law Courts in
+the immediate vicinity; but some of the older houses still remain on the
+left-hand side of the way.  Of these, No. 9 is a small, tall,
+squeezed-looking house, about half-way down the alley, and may be safely
+assigned (thirty years since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs.
+Blinder.
+
+Passing through Bell Yard, we reach _Fleet Street_, at the point where
+once TEMPLE BAR gave ancient entrance to the City.  Its position is
+marked by a bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath.
+Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern
+erection of _Child’s Bank_.  This new building dates from 1878, when the
+structure of old _Temple Bar_ was removed.  It replaces one of the very
+old-fashioned houses of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child
+carried on their important banking business.  This house is spoken of by
+Dickens, in his “Tale of Two Cities,” as Tellson’s Bank, on the outside
+of which the mysterious _Mr. Cruncher_ was usually in attendance as
+“odd-job man, and occasional porter and messenger.”
+
+    “Tellson’s Bank, by Temple Bar, was an old-fashioned place even in
+    the year 1780.  It was very small, very dark, very ugly, very
+    incommodious.  Any one of the partners would have disinherited his
+    son on the question of rebuilding Tellson’s.  Thus it had come to
+    pass that Tellson’s was the triumphant perfection of inconvenience.
+    After bursting open a door of idiotic obstinacy with a weak rattle in
+    its throat, you fell into Tellson’s, down two steps, and came to your
+    senses in a miserable little shop, with two little counters; where
+    the oldest of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it,
+    while they examined the signature by the dingiest of windows, which
+    were always under a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which
+    were made the dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of
+    Temple Bar.”
+
+                    [Picture: Fountain Court, Temple]
+
+Passing Newton’s (optician) we arrive at the outer Gate of the Temple, by
+which we enter _Middle Temple Lane_, following which a short distance and
+turning to the right, by _Middle Temple Hall_, we reach Fountain Court.
+The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a central position, is
+associated with the history of _Ruth Pinch_.  Here it was that Tom and
+his sister made appointments for meeting—
+
+    “Because, of course, when she had to wait a minute or two, it would
+    have been very awkward for her to have had to wait in any but a quiet
+    spot; and that was as quiet a spot, everything considered, as they
+    could choose.”
+
+On further reference to the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit,” we may recall
+the auspicious occasion when Ruth was under the special escort of _John
+Westlock_—
+
+    “Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in the sun, and merrily the
+    idle drops of water danced and danced; and, peeping out in sport
+    among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, as little
+    Ruth and her companion came towards it.”
+
+See chapter 53.  In Garden Court beyond, _Mr. Pip_ and his friend,
+_Herbert Pocket_, had residence.  In “Great Expectations,” he says—
+
+    “Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by the river.  We lived at
+    the top of the last house.”
+
+Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict _Magwitch_, _alias Provis_,
+disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s”
+discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was
+found for him at
+
+    “A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back of which looked into the
+    Temple, and was almost within hail of ‘Pip’s’ windows.”
+
+The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may look in vain for
+the actual chambers specified.  Returning to _Middle Temple Lane_, the
+visitor may walk directly across it to _Elm Court_, and proceed through
+the same and a narrow passage beyond, turning to the left, through _The
+Cloisters_, which (left again) give into the central location of Pump
+Court, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, four storeys high.
+Here, in all probability, were situated THE CHAMBERS where _Tom Pinch_
+was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, by the
+eccentric _Mr. Fips_.
+
+    “He led the way through sundry lanes and courts, into one more quiet
+    and gloomy than the rest; and, singling out a certain house, ascended
+    a common staircase . . . stopping before a door upon an upper storey.
+    . . .  There were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer
+    one, a narrow staircase leading to two more above.”
+
+Here, also, old _Martin Chuzzlewit_ revealed himself to the astonished
+Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous _Mr. Pecksniff_ by
+a “warm reception,” when “the tables were turned completely upside
+down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and 52.
+
+Proceeding past _Lamb Buildings_, on the east side of the Cloisters, and
+by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath the _Inner Temple
+Dining-Hall_, we may note across the road (right) a short range of
+substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing _King’s Bench Walk_,
+where it will be remembered that _Sir John Chester_ had his residential
+chambers, no doubt selecting a central position—say, at No. 3.  Here at
+various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden
+had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which “overhaul the
+wollume”—“Barnaby Rudge.”
+
+In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of _Mr. Stryver_,
+_K.C._, where _Sydney Carton_ served as “jackal” to that “fellow of
+delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two Cities,” how Sydney
+
+    “Having revived himself by twice pacing the pavements of King’s Bench
+    Walk and Paper Buildings, turned into the Stryver Chambers.”
+
+Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing in front of the
+Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith’s Buildings (right), which
+overlook the old burial-ground and the tomb of the doctor.  This surely
+is the “dismal churchyard” referred to in “Our Mutual Friend” as being
+closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn.
+
+    “Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal windows commanding that
+    churchyard, until at the most dismal window of them all, he saw a
+    dismal boy, would in him have beheld . . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer
+    Lightwood.”
+
+_N.B._—Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west
+wing, lately rebuilt.
+
+Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple
+Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of Bradley Headstone’s
+nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of _Mr. Eugene
+Wrayburn_, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as
+Eugene enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense of his
+unfortunate rival.
+
+Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford’s Inn
+Passage, into whose retirement _Mr. Rokesmith_, the hero of “Our Mutual
+Friend,” withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with _Mr. Boffin_, when
+offering that gentleman his services as secretary.
+
+Close at hand stands St. Dunstan’s Church, near to which the pump was,
+but is not, from whose refreshing streams “_Hugh_” (from the Maypole,
+Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to
+visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings.  (_Vide_ “Barnaby Rudge,”
+chapter 40.)  The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain.
+
+_Toby Veck_ surely must have known that pump; for though there is no
+precise location given by Dickens in “The Chimes” for the church near to
+which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the
+original edition of that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the
+counterfeit presentment of St. Dunstan’s Tower.
+
+Continuing the route, we pass _Bouverie Street_ (Bradbury and Evans—now
+Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street were the publishers of several of
+the works of Dickens, “The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving
+at _Whitefriars’ Street_ on the same side.
+
+At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of “The Daily
+News.”  This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under
+the supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the
+journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from Italy.”  Dickens
+shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends
+Jerrold and Forster.  The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the
+study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with
+“the People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” rather than “the
+people—spelt with a small p, who govern.”
+
+A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage (left) from which,
+at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where
+Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments.
+These “were very decently kept” by his wife, whose “flopping”
+proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry.
+
+On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just beyond, we turn (left)
+into _Wine Office Court_, and, on the right, we arrive at “Ye Olde
+Cheshire Cheese.”  In “The Tale of Two Cities,” Book 2, chapter 4, we
+read that _Charles Darnay_, being acquitted of the charge of high
+treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young
+lawyer, _Sydney Carton_, to dine in his company thereafter:—
+
+    “Drawing his arm through his own, he took him down Ludgate Hill to
+    Fleet Street, and so up a covered way into a tavern.”
+
+This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort
+with literary and legal men for more than a century past.  Here Doctor
+Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently dined together in days gone by,
+gravely discoursing over their punch afterwards; and, in more recent
+years, Thackeray, Dickens, Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned
+among the customary guests of the establishment.  Mr. George Augustus
+Sala, in a pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:—
+
+    “Let it be noted in candour that Law finds its way to the ‘Cheese’ as
+    well as Literature; but the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant,
+    and, consequently, harmless order.  Literary men who have been called
+    to the Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do
+    not object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of
+    retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the
+    landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to Judge
+    Blackstone when he wrote his ‘Commentaries’)—these make up the legal
+    element of the ‘Cheese.’”
+
+The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains
+_Ludgate Circus_, from which _Farringdon Street_ leads northward on the
+left.  A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge
+of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of _Farringdon Market_ on the
+left side.  Its position will recall the description given in “Barnaby
+Rudge,” in whose days it was known as Fleet Market,
+
+    “At that time a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses
+    occupying the centre of what is now called Farringdon Street. . . .
+    It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days that
+    they should be public nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained
+    the principle to admiration.”
+
+Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book before mentioned—and
+passed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings.  Retracing
+our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site
+of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the CONGREGATIONAL
+MEMORIAL HALL.  The prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the
+rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., Belle
+Sauvage Yard.  Its last remaining walls were removed in 1872, when the
+foundation-stone of the “Memorial Hall” aforesaid was laid.  Here was
+imprisoned our amiable friend _Mr. Pickwick_, attended by his faithful
+Sam, until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in _re_
+Bardell _versus_ Pickwick were by him fully paid and satisfied.
+
+Proceeding up _Ludgate Hill_, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard
+(turning by No. 68, on the left).  The old inn, with its central
+metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now
+the extensive printing and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold
+benignant sway.  The place is referred to in an anecdote of _Sam
+Weller’s_ anent the preparation of his father’s marriage licence, as
+arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that
+respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London—
+
+    “‘What is your name, sir?’ says the lawyer.  ‘Tony Weller,’ says my
+    father.  ‘Parish?’ says the lawyer.  ‘Belle Savage,’ says my father;
+    for he stopped there when he drove up, and he know’d nothing about
+    parishes, _he_ didn’t.”
+
+The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style.
+In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two courts, the outer one being
+approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle
+Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way
+up from the main entrance.  In this interior court was the coach-yard,
+surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of
+the times.
+
+Passing onwards on the same side, past _Old Bailey_, we arrive at the
+site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by
+the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters.  The
+old house was pulled down in 1872.  Here _Mr. Arthur Clennam_ rested
+awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and by Dover
+coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in
+chapter 3 of “Little Dorrit.”  We now soon come to St. Paul’s Churchyard,
+facing the dial by which _Ralph Nickleby_ corrected his watch on his way
+to the London Tavern, no doubt “stepping aside” into No.
+1—Dakin’s—“doorway” to do it; and we may probably be disposed to endorse
+_John Browdie’s_ verdict with reference to St. Paul’s Cathedral itself.
+“See there, lass, there be Paul’s Church.  Ecod, he be a soizable one, he
+be.”  This locality is also mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as being in the
+line of road taken by _Lord George Gordon_ when entering London with his
+friends _en route_ for his residence in Welbeck Street.  On the right,
+within a short distance, we come to Dean’s Court, formerly DOCTORS’
+COMMONS. This place is referred to by _Sam Weller_ as being in
+
+    “St. Paul’s Churchyard—low archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s
+    at one corner, hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as
+    touts for licences.”
+
+He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his father’s
+having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the
+lady’s name to be filled in on speculation.
+
+We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of “David
+Copperfield.”
+
+The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but
+the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings’ Bank in _Knightrider
+Street_.  Passing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s
+(right), we cross _Carter Lane_, and proceed by a narrow court, _Bell
+Yard_, to the street above mentioned.  At the corner of Carter Lane and
+Bell Yard is the “_Bell Tavern_,” which it may be interesting to note, as
+a house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in
+preparation for David’s “choice of a profession.”  For full particulars
+the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography.
+
+It may also be remembered that the worthy _Mr. Boffin_ (see “Our Mutual
+Friend”), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in
+his ideas relative to this institution.  In conversation with Mr.
+Lightwood, he once referred to the same as a legal personality—“_Doctor
+Scommons_!”
+
+This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and
+aspect.  The old archway has disappeared.  As previously stated, it is
+now known as Dean’s Court.  In connection with its old associations,
+there exists _The Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence
+Office_, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors’
+offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the
+neighbourhood.
+
+On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon
+arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street.
+Associated with “Great Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn”
+(“_The Castle_,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first
+visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per _Mr.
+Jaggers_.
+
+Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the
+well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54.  It
+may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original
+of “_Grip_,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double
+passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the particulars of its decease,
+and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis.  This relic, so intimately
+associated with the tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public
+sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its photographic portrait may
+be now obtained at this address.
+
+A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St.
+Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to fame and fortune.
+These same bells are mentioned in the history of “Dombey and Son,”
+chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm.
+
+Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive
+at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall.
+In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of
+promise of marriage, “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” was contested, on which
+occasion _Mr. Weller_, _senr._, emphatically insisted (from the body of
+the Court) on Sam’s spelling his name with a “we,” and afterwards much
+deplored the absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick’s
+behalf—“Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn’t there a alleybi?”  Are not all these
+and other particulars written in the chronicles of the “Pickwick
+Papers”?—See chapter 34.
+
+Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of
+the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the
+Poultry, at the farther end, passing a turning on the left therefrom,
+known as GROCERS’ HALL COURT.  It will be remembered that on one occasion
+when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller,
+whose “knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from
+the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the
+last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his
+master to
+
+    “Take the box as stands in the first fireplace, ’cos there a’n’t no
+    leg in the middle of the table.”
+
+In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this
+house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is
+recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned
+sort.  Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son’s patron,
+and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich.  At the end
+of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House,
+mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the Mayor of London.  We
+read of this civic potentate in the pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when,
+one Christmas Eve,
+
+    “The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the mighty Mansion House, gave
+    orders to his fifty cooks and butlers to keep Christmas as a Lord
+    Mayor’s household should.”
+
+_Mark Tapley_ also—in America—once made jocose reference to this
+location.  When speaking of Queen Victoria, he informed certain members
+of the Watertoast Association to the following effect:—
+
+    “She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, with the Lord Mayor at
+    the Mansion House, but don’t often occupy them, in consequence of the
+    parlour chimney smoking.”
+
+Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of
+Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House.  Their position was
+probably in proximity to _The Royal Exchange_, but the address cannot be
+definitely indicated.  Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and
+schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the prosperity of the
+house.
+
+The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving
+establishment of the well-known merchant tailors—DOMBEY & SON—will be
+found at No. 120 _Cheapside_, at which a large and well-conducted
+business is carried on.
+
+From this point we may conveniently visit “His Lordship’s Larder” (at
+three minutes’ distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh,
+“rest, and be thankful.”
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE III
+_Charing Cross to Thavies Inn_, _Holborn Circus_
+
+
+South-Eastern Terminus—Spa Road Station—Jacob’s Island; Sykes’s last
+Refuge—Butler’s Wharf, formerly Quilp’s Wharf—Quilp’s House, Tower
+Hill—Trinity House and Garden; Bella Wilfer’s Waiting-place—Southwark
+Bridge; Little Dorrit’s Promenade—The General Post Office—Falcon Hotel,
+Falcon Square; John Jasper’s patronage—Little Britain; Office of Mr.
+Jaggers—Smithfield—Newgate Prison; Pip’s description in “Great
+Expectations”—The Old Bailey Criminal Court, as per “Tale of Two
+Cities”—The Saracen’s Head; Associations with Nicholas
+Nickleby—Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his Companions—Scene of the
+Robbery—Line of Route taken by Oliver and “The Artful Dodger” from the
+Angel to Saffron Hill—Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of Mr.
+Fang—Great Saffron Hill and Field Lane—Fagin’s House and the “Three
+Cripples”—Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and Clennam; the Plornish
+Family—Ely Place—Thavies Inn; Mrs. Jellyby’s Residence.
+
+From the SOUTH-EASTERN TERMINUS at Charing Cross there are frequent
+trains by which the Rambler can travel to _Spa Road Station_,
+_Bermondsey_ (about twenty minutes’ ride), from which point the situation
+of what was once Jacob’s Island may be conveniently visited.  This place
+was associated with the adventures of _Oliver Twist_, being the last
+refuge to which _Sykes_, the murderer of _Nancy_, betook himself on his
+return to London, and where he met a righteous retribution when
+attempting his escape.  It is described by Dickens—nearly sixty years
+since—as being
+
+    “Near to that part of the Thames on which the church at Rotherhithe
+    abuts, where the buildings on the banks are dirtiest, and the vessels
+    on the river blackest, with the dust of colliers and the smoke of
+    close-built, low-roofed houses.  In such a neighbourhood, beyond
+    Dockhead, in the borough of Southwark, stands Jacob’s Island,
+    surrounded by a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or
+    twenty wide when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in
+    the days of this story as Folly Ditch.”
+
+Arriving at _Spa Road_, the explorer turns left and right by the short
+routes of _West Street South_, _Fream Street_, and _Rouel Road_, into
+_Jamaica Road_ (five minutes from station); passing from the opposite
+side of which, through _Parker’s Row_ to the thoroughfare of _Dockhead_,
+he will find himself face to face with a tavern on the north side, named
+“The Swan and Sugar Loaf.”  A short cut on the right of this house leads
+immediately to LONDON STREET, its northern side forming the south
+boundary of the old site of Jacob’s Island.  _Folly Ditch_, flowing from
+the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through London Street (it
+has been filled in since 1851); and in these streets wooden bridges
+crossed to the Island, and “crazy wooden galleries, common to the backs
+of half-a-dozen houses”—referred to by the novelist—used to “ornament the
+banks of Folly Ditch.”  To the right we pass into _George Row_, enclosing
+Jacob’s Island (east), and may note _en passant_ the blocks of workmen’s
+dwellings, erected 1883, named “Wolseley’s Buildings,” which occupy the
+site of the old Island on its eastern side.  From George Row we turn
+(right) into _Jacob Street_, north of the Island, by which we come into
+_Mill Street_ (west); again returning to _London Street_, and so
+completing the circumnavigation of this interesting locality.  Some of
+the old wooden erections still exist in _Farthing Alley_, _Halfpenny
+Alley_, and _Edward Street_, which intersect the area.  In his preface to
+the first cheap edition of “Oliver Twist,” the author makes a further
+reference, as follows:—
+
+    “In the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, it was publicly
+    declared in London by an amazing alderman, that Jacob’s Island did
+    not exist, and never had existed.  Jacob’s Island continues to exist
+    (like an ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight
+    hundred and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.”
+
+Starting westward from “The Swan and Sugar Loaf,” we now proceed through
+_Thornton Street_, and turn to the right, by one block in the street
+beyond, into _Queen Street_, which leads directly north to the riverside.
+At the end of this street is the locality of Quilp’s Wharf and place of
+business, aforetime described in the pages of “The Old Curiosity Shop”:—
+
+    “A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in which were a little wooden
+    counting-house, burrowing all awry in the dust as if it had fallen
+    from the clouds, and ploughed into the ground; a few fragments of
+    rusty anchors, several large iron rings, some piles of rotten wood,
+    and two or three heaps of old sheet copper—crumpled, cracked, and
+    battered.”
+
+The place has been altogether altered and improved during the last forty
+years, and is now known as “Butler’s Wharf,” but the original prototype
+of Quilp is still remembered by some of the older residents of the
+neighbourhood.
+
+The westward route being continued by the side of the river, we walk
+through _Shad Thames_ and _Pickle Herring Street_ (underneath an archway)
+to _Vine Street_, where is the southern entrance of the _Tower Subway_,
+by which we may cross below the river to the other side.  Emerging near
+the Tower, Quilp’s House, on Tower Hill, is near at hand.  No. 6 Tower
+Dock, facing the public entrance to the Tower, is said to have comprised
+the lodging assigned by Dickens for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs.
+Daniel Quilp and Mrs. Jiniwin.  We may here recall the matrons’
+tea-meeting, as described in chapter 4 of “The Old Curiosity Shop,” when
+Quilp’s conduct as a husband was freely discussed, and much good advice
+tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the true assertion of her rights and dignity.
+Also the notable occasion when, the master of the house being missing and
+thought to be drowned, _Mr. Sampson Brass_ was in consultation, and the
+party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a descriptive
+advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, as lively and
+sarcastic as ever.
+
+    “A question now arises with regard to his nose.  ‘Flat,’ said Mrs.
+    Jiniwin.  ‘Aquiline!’ cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and
+    striking the feature with his fist.  ‘Aquiline, you hag.  Do you see
+    it?  Do you call this flat?  Do you?  Eh?’”
+
+Hard by this locality stands Trinity House, Tower Hill, with its garden
+in front, and it may be remembered that _Mr. Wilfer_ suggested this
+neighbourhood as a waiting-place for Bella, on the occasion of their
+“innocent elopement” to Greenwich, while he should array himself in new
+garments at her expense, to do honour to the expedition.  We now turn
+westward by _Tower Street_, and may save time by taking train at _Mark
+Lane Station_ for the Mansion House, about ten minutes’ ride.  On arrival
+at the Mansion House Station we shall find _Queen Street_ close at hand,
+leading riverwards to Southwark Bridge, referred to in “Little Dorrit” as
+the Iron Bridge.  This was Amy Dorrit’s favourite promenade, it being
+quieter than many of the neighbouring thoroughfares; and we may recall
+the scene when young _John Chivery_ was obliged to take no for an answer,
+when he attempted the proffer of his hand and heart.
+
+Proceeding onwards through _Cannon Street_, we turn to the right through
+_St. Paul’s Churchyard_, crossing Cheapside to the stately edifice of the
+General Post Office, _St. Martin’s-le-Grand_.  This building, in the
+times of “Nicholas Nickleby,” occasioned honest John Browdie some
+surprise:—
+
+    “Wa-at dost thee tak’ yon place to be, noo, that ’un ower the wa’?
+    Ye’d never coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths.  It’s na
+    but a Poast-office.  Ho, ho! they need to charge for double latthers.
+    A Poast-office!  What dost thee think of that?  Ecod, if that’s on’y
+    a Poast-office, loike to see where the Lord Mayor o’ Lunnon lives!”
+
+_Aldersgate Street_ leads northward from St. Martin’s-le-Grand; passing
+the first block in which, _Falcon Street_ turns on the right (No. 16)
+towards _Falcon Square_, a small city piazza, where may be found (No. 8)
+The Falcon Hotel.  This is the place at which John Jasper sojourned when
+visiting London.  In “The Mystery of Edwin Drood” we read the following
+commendation of the house in question:—
+
+    “It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at its visitor’s
+    option.  It announces itself, in the new Railway advertisers, as a
+    novel enterprise, timidly beginning to spring up.  It bashfully,
+    almost apologetically, gives the traveller to understand that it does
+    not expect him, on the good old constitutional hotel plan, to order a
+    pint of sweet blacking for his drinking, and throw it away; but
+    insinuates that he may have his boots blacked instead of his stomach,
+    and may also have bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all
+    night, for a certain fixed charge.”
+
+Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the opposite turning,
+leading to Smithfield, is _Little Britain_.  In “Great Expectations” we
+learn that the Offices of Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, were here
+situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but the house cannot be
+precisely indicated.  Here _Mr. Wemmick_ assisted his Principal in the
+details of his professional business.  He may be remembered as having a
+decided preference for “portable property.”
+
+Proceeding onward by _Duke Street_, the visitor will shortly come into
+Smithfield, a locality which is considerably changed since the days when
+Pip first arrived in London.  He says—
+
+    “When I told the clerk that I would take a turn in the air while I
+    waited, he advised me to go round the corner and I should come into
+    Smithfield.  So I came into Smithfield; and the shameful place, being
+    all asmear with filth, and fat, and blood, and foam, seemed to stick
+    to me.  So, I rubbed it off with all possible speed by turning into a
+    street where I saw the great black dome of Saint Paul’s bulging at me
+    from behind a grim stone building which a bystander said was Newgate
+    Prison.”
+
+Adopting the same line of route, the Rambler may pass the south front of
+the Metropolitan Meat Market, turning to the left by St. Bartholomew’s
+Hospital into _Giltspur Street_, which leads to Newgate Street, and faces
+on the opposite corner of Old Bailey Newgate Prison.  In “Great
+Expectations,” Pip describes his visit to the interior, at the invitation
+and in the company of Mr. Wemmick:—
+
+    “We passed through the Lodge, where some fetters were hanging up, on
+    the bare walls among the prison rules, into the interior of the jail.
+    At that time jails were much neglected, and the period of exaggerated
+    reaction consequent on all public wrong-doing—and which is always its
+    longest and heaviest punishment—was still far off.  So, felons were
+    not lodged and fed better than soldiers (to say nothing of paupers),
+    and seldom set fire to their prisons with the excusable object of
+    improving the flavour of their soup.  It was visiting-time when
+    Wemmick took me in, and a potman was going his rounds with beer, and
+    the prisoners behind bars in yards were buying beer and talking to
+    friends; and a frowsy, ugly, disorderly, depressing scene it was.”
+
+Again, it may be remarked that things have much improved since the good
+old days.  _Inter alia_, the principles and rules of prison management
+and discipline have greatly changed for the better.
+
+In the tale of “Barnaby Rudge” is the narrative of the burning of Newgate
+and the liberation of the prisoners by the rioters (1780), on which
+occasion it will be remembered that our old friend Gabriel Varden was
+somewhat roughly handled.  For full particulars, see chapter 64.
+
+Immediately south of Newgate is the adjacent Central Criminal Court of
+The Old Bailey, the scene of Charles Darnay’s trial in “The Tale of Two
+Cities.”  At the time there described (1775)—
+
+    “The Old Bailey was famous as a kind of deadly Inn yard, from which
+    pale travellers set out continually, in carts and coaches, on a
+    violent passage to the other world, traversing some two miles and a
+    half of public street and road, and shaming few good citizens, if
+    any.  So powerful is use, and so desirable to be good use in the
+    beginning.  It was famous, too, for the pillory, a wise old
+    institution, that inflicted a punishment of which no one could
+    foresee the extent; also for the whipping-post, another dear old
+    institution, very humanising and softening to behold in action; also
+    for extensive transactions in blood-money, another fragment of
+    ancestral wisdom.”
+
+Facing eastward from Newgate Street is the _Holborn Viaduct_, which has
+for many years superseded the old ascending and descending road of
+Holborn Hill.
+
+The Saracen’s Head, the old coaching-house on Snow Hill, with which we
+have been familiar from the days of “Nicholas Nickleby,” as the
+headquarters of Mr. Squeers, has disappeared since 1868, having been
+pulled down long ago, with many other buildings of this neighbourhood,
+giving room to the great improvements which have taken place in this part
+of London.  Hereabouts it stood, on a lower level, not far from St.
+Sepulchre’s Church—
+
+    “Just on that particular part of Snow Hill where omnibus horses going
+    eastward seriously think of falling down on purpose, and horses in
+    hackney cabriolets going westward not unfrequently fall by accident.”
+
+The present _Police Station_, Snow Hill, stands on part of the site
+formerly occupied by this old hostelry.
+
+This modern thoroughfare of Snow Hill commences at the first turning on
+the right, in which has been erected a commodious hotel of the same name
+(No. 10), where, by the aid of a little refreshment and a slight exercise
+of imagination, we may recall the departure of Nicholas for Dotheboy’s
+Hall, Greta Bridge, by the Yorkshire coach, with Mr. Squeers and the
+pupils; also the later arrival in London of Mr. and Mrs. Browdie,
+accompanied by the lovely Fanny as bridesmaid, and the first meeting of
+Nicholas with Frank Cheeryble, newly returned from Continental travel.
+
+Snow Hill leads to the lower level of _Farringdon Road_, at a point
+immediately north of the Holborn Viaduct spanning the thoroughfare, in
+which, turning to the right, we walk onwards to the intersection of
+_Clerkenwell Road_ (eight minutes’ work).  On the right hand, across the
+railway, is Clerkenwell Green, referred to in “Oliver Twist” as
+
+    “That open square in Clerkenwell which is yet called by some strange
+    perversion of terms The Green.”
+
+It was near this place that little Oliver became enlightened as to the
+business of Charley Bates and the Artful Dodger.  We read that the boys,
+traversing a narrow court in this neighbourhood, came out opposite a
+bookstall, where Mr. Brownlow was reading, abstracted from all other
+mundane considerations, so affording “a prime plant” for the operations
+of these light-fingered gentlemen.  This court leads from the road
+opposite the Sessions House into _Pear Tree Court_, giving into the main
+road at some distance beyond, at which the scene above referred to was
+enacted.
+
+Walking onwards by the _King’s Cross Road_ we soon come to the point
+where _Exmouth Street_ joins it from the east, facing the south-east
+angle of the House of Correction.  Here we strike into the route taken by
+Oliver Twist when he first came from Barnet to London, under the escort
+of _Mr. John Dawkins_.  The text of the story is as follows:—
+
+    “They crossed from the ‘Angel’ into St. John’s Road, struck down the
+    small street which terminates at Sadler’s Wells Theatre, through
+    Exmouth Street and Coppice Row, down the little court by the side of
+    the Workhouse, across the classic ground which once bore the name of
+    Hockley-in-the-Hole, thence into Little Saffron Hill, and so into
+    Saffron Hill the Great.”
+
+Following the line thus indicated from Exmouth Street, we come on the
+south side of the Workhouse, nearly opposite Little Saffron Hill, which
+leads into _Great Saffron Hill_ as above.  Crossing _Clerkenwell Road_,
+and proceeding for a short distance down Great Saffron Hill, we arrive at
+the cross street of _Hatton Wall_, in which, past two doors to the left
+on the south side, will be found—between the _Hat and Tun Inn_ and No. 17
+beyond—the entrance of HATTON YARD, a long narrow lane or mews (leading
+to _Kirby Street_), occupied by carmen and stabling.  In this eligible
+position was situated, some fifty years since, “the very notorious
+Metropolitan Police Court” to which Oliver Twist was taken on the charge
+of theft; and we may here recall the administration of the presiding
+magistrate, the notable Mr. Fang, as shown in the examination of the
+prisoner.
+
+The premises (No. 9, on the left) once formed part and parcel of the
+police court referred to; but the arrangements of the neighbourhood have
+been subjected to much alteration during the last half century.  Mr.
+Forster states that Dickens “had himself a satisfaction in admitting the
+identity of Mr. Fang, in ‘Oliver Twist,’ with Mr. Laing of Hatton
+Garden.”  In a letter (now in possession of Mr. S. R. Goodman, of
+Brighton) written to Mr. Haines, Reporter, June 3rd, 1838, Dickens writes
+as follows:—
+
+    “In my next number of ‘Oliver Twist’ I must have a magistrate; and,
+    casting about for a magistrate whose harshness and insolence would
+    render him a fit subject to be _shown up_, I have as a necessary
+    consequence stumbled upon Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden celebrity.  I
+    know the man’s character perfectly well; but as it would be necessary
+    to describe his personal appearance also, I ought to have seen him,
+    which (fortunately or unfortunately as the case may be) I have never
+    done.  In this dilemma it occurred to me that perhaps I might under
+    your auspices be smuggled into the Hatton Garden office for a few
+    moments some morning.  If you can further my object I shall be really
+    very greatly obliged to you.”
+
+“The opportunity was found; the magistrate was brought up before the
+novelist; and shortly after, on some fresh outbreak of intolerable
+temper, the Home Secretary found it an easy and popular step to remove
+Mr. Laing from the Bench.”
+
+Returning to GREAT SAFFRON HILL, we may recall its description as given
+in the days of “Oliver Twist”—
+
+    “The street was very narrow and muddy, and the air was impregnated
+    with filthy odours.  The sole places that seemed to prosper amid the
+    general blight of the place were the public-houses, and in them the
+    lowest orders of the Irish were wrangling with might and main.
+    Covered ways and yards, which here and there diverged from the main
+    street, disclosed little knots of houses where drunken men and women
+    were positively wallowing in filth.”
+
+Field Lane, in the immediate vicinity, _was_
+
+    “Near to that spot on which Snow Hill and Holborn Hill meet . . a
+    narrow dismal alley leading to Saffron Hill.  In its filthy shops are
+    exposed for sale huge bunches of second-hand silk handkerchiefs of
+    all sizes and patterns, for here reside the traders who purchase them
+    from the pickpockets.”
+
+This place has been effaced by the Holborn Valley improvements, and we
+may now look in vain for the precise locality of the house of _Fagin_ the
+Jew.  In this neighbourhood also was situated “The Three Cripples,” a
+public-house of evil repute patronised by Sykes, Fagin, and Monks.  We
+may recall the circumstance of _Mr. Morris Bolter’s_ (_alias_ Noah
+Claypole’s) arrival at this house, when he and _Charlotte_ first came to
+London, and of his subsequent interview with the wily Jew.
+
+It is pleasant to remark that Saffron Hill has greatly improved in its
+character since the above-quoted description was correct.  It now affords
+accommodation for the headquarters of the _Central Shoeblacks’ Society_
+(as established under the auspices of the late Earl of Shaftesbury), and
+about midway in the street where thieves “did once inhabit,” a large
+_Board School_ is doing good educational service for the elevation of the
+humbler classes.
+
+Turning from Great Saffron Hill westward by the _One Tun_ public-house,
+we come into _Charles Street_, on the south side of which, towards Hatton
+Garden, is Bleeding Hart Yard (entrance by the Bleeding Hart Tavern, No.
+19).  This locality is associated with the tale of “Little Dorrit.”  It
+will be remembered that here the factory of _Messrs. Doyce and Clennam_
+was situated, and here also resided _Mr. and Mrs. Plornish_, the humble
+friends of the Dorrit family.  In these degenerate days the place has
+much altered, and the amiable _Mr. Casby_ would certainly find it more
+difficult than ever to collect his weekly dues, even by the agency of his
+energetic assistant, Mr. Pancks.
+
+Passing from this unpretending locality, we come (at No. 8) into _Hatton
+Garden_, which leads southward to _Holborn Circus_.
+
+In Hatton Garden, on the east side, can be observed (No. 20) the
+old-established warehouse of Messrs. Rowland and Son.  In this connection
+there may be remembered the mad old gentleman “in small clothes,” who
+lived next door to the _Nicklebys_, at Bow.  On the only occasion of his
+visiting the family indoors, he incidentally referred to “Mrs. Rowland,
+who, every morning, bathes in Kalydor for nothing.”—See “Nicholas
+Nickleby,” chapter 49.
+
+Mr. Waterbrook’s establishment, situated in _Ely Place_, _Holborn_, is
+entitled to passing mention as the place where David and his friend
+Traddles met each other for the first time after their schoolboy days, on
+the occasion of a dinner-party, at which also _Agnes Wickfield_ and
+_Uriah Heep_ attended.  Ely Place is situated on the north side of
+HOLBORN CIRCUS, and once comprised the rose garden of the Bishop of Ely,
+afterwards leased to Sir Christopher Hatton.
+
+On the opposite side of the Circus, and near to St. Andrew’s Church, is
+situated Thavies Inn, in which _Mrs. Jellyby_ and family resided, in the
+days when her daughter _Caddy_ acted as amanuensis _in re_ the affairs of
+Borrioboola-Gha.
+
+It is described in “Bleak House” as being
+
+    “A narrow street of high houses like an oblong cistern to hold the
+    fog.”
+
+The house No. 13, on the right, has been indicated as once the disorderly
+residence of the Jellyby family.  We may recollect it as the place where
+_Esther Summerson_ and _Ada_ were accommodated for their first night in
+London, on which occasion little unfortunate _Peepy_ was found with his
+head between the area railings, and the house generally turned upside
+down; while Mrs. Jellyby serenely dictated her correspondence in the
+family sitting-room, altogether oblivious of such minor domestic
+accidents.
+
+Esther thus narrates her first impressions:—
+
+    “Mrs. Jellyby had very good hair, but was too much occupied with her
+    African duties to brush it.  The shawl in which she had been loosely
+    muffled dropped on to her chair, when she advanced towards us; and,
+    as she turned to resume her seat, we could not help noticing that her
+    dress didn’t nearly meet up the back, and that the open space was
+    railed across with a lattice work of staylace—like a summer house. .
+    . .  ‘You find me, my dears,’ said Mrs. Jellyby, ‘as usual, very
+    busy; but that you will excuse.  The African project at present
+    employs my whole time. . . .  We hope by this time next year to have
+    from a hundred and fifty to two hundred healthy families cultivating
+    coffee and educating the natives of Borrioboola-Gha, on the left bank
+    of the Niger.”—See “Bleak House,” chapter 4.
+
+_The Buffet of Messrs. Spiers and Pond_ will be found a short distance
+eastward from Holborn Circus, on the right, next the terminus of the
+London, Chatham, and Dover railway.  A visit to its welcome “contiguity
+of shade” is confidently recommended to those who may be disposed for
+necessary rest and refreshment.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE IV
+_Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court Road_
+
+
+Langdale’s Distillery—Barnard’s Inn; Pip’s Chambers—Furnival’s Inn;
+Dickens’s and John Westlock’s Apartments—Staple Inn; Mr. Grewgious’s
+Chambers, P.J.T.; Rooms of Neville Landless and Mr. Tartar; “The Magic
+Bean-Stalk Country”—Gray’s Inn; Mr. and Mrs. Traddles and “the girls;”
+Offices of Mr. Perker—The Bull Inn; Scene of Lewsome’s Illness—Kingsgate
+Street; Poll Sweedlepipe’s Shop; Sairey Gamp’s Apartments—Mrs.
+Billickin’s Lodgings in Southampton Street; Miss Twinkleton and Rosa
+Budd—Bloomsbury Square; Lord Mansfield’s Residence—Queen Square—The
+Children’s Hospital; Johnny’s Will—Foundling Hospital; “No Thoroughfare;”
+Walter Wilding—“The Boot Tavern”—No. 48 Doughty Street—Tavistock House,
+Tavistock Square—Mrs. Dickens’s Establishment, No. 4 Gower Street, North;
+Mrs. Wilfer’s Doorplate—No. 1 Devonshire Terrace—Mr. Merdle’s House,
+Harley Street—Mr. Dombey’s House—Madame Mantalini’s, Wigmore
+Street—Wimpole Street; Mr. Boffin’s West-end Residence—Welbeck Street;
+Lord George Gordon’s Residence—Brook Street, Claridge’s Hotel; Mr.
+Dorrit’s Return—Devonshire House; Guild of Literature and Art—Hatchett’s
+Hotel; White Horse Cellars; Mr. Guppy in attendance—193 Piccadilly;
+Messrs. Chapman and Hall—Golden Square; Ralph Nickleby’s
+Office—Apartments of the Kenwigs family—The Crown Inn—“Martha’s”
+Lodgings—Newman Street; Mr. Turveydrop’s Academy—Carlisle House; Doctor
+Manette and Lucie.
+
+From HOLBORN CIRCUS the Rambler now proceeds westward by the main
+thoroughfare of _Holborn_, passing _Fetter Lane_ on the left, and arrives
+at (No. 26) the old premises, now partially rebuilt, formerly Langdale’s
+Distillery.  Half of the same remains (at the moment), but will shortly
+be superseded by a modern building.  The eastern portion is occupied by
+Messrs. Buchanan, whisky merchants, who have recently purchased the
+premises.  This establishment was sacked (1780) by the Gordon rioters.
+Mr. Langdale being a Catholic, was obnoxious to the No-Popery mob; and
+the stores of liquor at this distillery afforded an additional temptation
+for the attack.  The terrible scenes enacted on the occasion are
+powerfully described in “Barnaby Rudge,” chapters 67 and 68—
+
+    “At this place a large detachment of soldiery were posted, who fired,
+    now up Fleet Market, now up Holborn, now up Snow Hill—constantly
+    raking the streets in each direction.  At this place too, several
+    large fires were burning, so that all the terrors of that terrible
+    night seemed to be concentrated in one spot.
+
+    “Full twenty times, the rioters, headed by one man who wielded an axe
+    in his right hand, and bestrode a brewer’s horse of great size and
+    strength, caparisoned with fetters taken out of Newgate, which
+    clanked and jingled as he went, made an attempt to force a passage at
+    this point, and fire the vintner’s house.  Full twenty times they
+    were repulsed with loss of life, and still came back again; and
+    though the fellow at their head was marked and singled out by all,
+    and was a conspicuous object as the only rioter on horseback, not a
+    man could hit him. . . .
+
+    “The vintner’s house, with half-a-dozen others near at hand, was one
+    great, glowing blaze.  All night, no one had essayed to quench the
+    flames, or stop their progress; but now a body of soldiers were
+    actively engaged in pulling down two old wooden houses, which were
+    every moment in danger of taking fire, and which could scarcely fail,
+    if they were left to burn, to extend the conflagration immensely.
+
+    “. . .  The gutters of the street, and every crack and fissure in the
+    stones, ran with scorching spirit, which being dammed up by busy
+    hands, overflowed the road and pavement, and formed a great pool,
+    into which the people dropped down dead by dozens.  They lay in heaps
+    all round this fearful pond, husbands and wives, fathers and sons,
+    mothers and daughters, women with children in their arms and babies
+    at their breasts, and drank until they died.  While some stooped with
+    their lips to the brink and never raised their heads again, others
+    sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced, half in a mad
+    triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell, and
+    steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them. . . .
+
+    “On this last night of the great riots—for the last night it was—the
+    wretched victims of a senseless outcry, became themselves the dust
+    and ashes of the flames they had kindled, and strewed the public
+    streets of London.”
+
+It will be remembered that Mr. Langdale and Mr. Haredale, being in the
+house that night, were rescued by Edward Chester and Joe Willett, all
+four finding their way to safety by a back entrance.
+
+    “The narrow lane in the rear was quite free of people.  So, when they
+    had crawled through the passage indicated by the vintner (which was a
+    mere shelving-trap for the admission of casks), and had managed with
+    some difficulty to unchain and raise the door at the upper end, they
+    emerged into the street without being observed or interrupted.  Joe
+    still holding Mr. Haredale tight, and Edward taking the same care of
+    the vintner, they hurried through the streets at a rapid pace.”
+
+This door gives into Fetter Lane (No. 79), and still exists for the
+inspection of the curious.  The old house in Holborn has, for more than a
+century, replaced the premises so destroyed.  Close at hand (by No. 23)
+is the entrance to Barnard’s Inn—
+
+    “The dingiest collection of shabby buildings ever squeezed together
+    in a rank corner as a club for tom-cats.”
+
+The locality is referred to in these complimentary terms by Mr. Pip (in
+the pages of “Great Expectations”), who lived here with his friend
+Herbert Pocket for a short time when he first came to London.  Mr. Joe
+Gargery’s verdict is worth remembrance:—
+
+    “The present may be a wery good inn, and I believe its character do
+    stand i; but I wouldn’t keep a pig in it myself, not in the case that
+    I wished him to fatten wholesome, and to eat with a meller flavour on
+    him.”
+
+Pip further describes as follows:—
+
+    “We entered this haven through a wicket-gate, and were disgorged by
+    an introductory passage into a melancholy little square that looked
+    to me like a flat burying-ground.  I thought it had the most dismal
+    trees in it, and the most dismal sparrows, and the most dismal cats,
+    and the most dismal houses (in number half-a-dozen or so), that I had
+    ever seen. . . .  A frowzy mourning of soot and smoke attired this
+    forlorn creation of Barnard, and it had strewed ashes on its head,
+    and was undergoing penance and humiliation as a mere dust-hole.  Thus
+    for my sense of sight; while dry rot, and wet rot, and all the silent
+    rots that rot in neglected root and cellar—rot of rat, and mouse, and
+    bug, and coaching stables near at hand besides—addressed themselves
+    faintly to my sense of smell, and moaned, ‘Try Barnard’s Mixture.’”
+
+Great alterations are now (1899) being carried out; the old buildings—as
+above referred to by Mr. Pip—have been demolished, and a new and better
+arrangement of the locality is in active progress for the improvement of
+the neighbourhood.
+
+On the opposite side of Holborn are the handsome and extensive offices of
+THE PRUDENTIAL ASSURANCE COMPANY.  These premises, with their frontage,
+occupy the site of FURNIVAL’S INN, which has recently disappeared, having
+been pulled down to make room for the extension of the Assurance offices
+above referred to—_Sic transit memoria mundi_.
+
+Furnival’s Inn was an interesting locality, as associated with the
+earlier experience of Mr. Dickens himself.  Here the young author resided
+in 1835, the year previous to the production of the “Pickwick Papers,”
+the first number of that work being published April 1, 1836.  On the day
+following that notable date, Mr. Dickens married Miss Catherine Hogarth;
+and for some time the young couple resided on the third floor apartments
+at _No._ 15 _Furnival’s Inn_—on the right side of the square.  A personal
+reminiscence of these early days is no doubt intended in chapter 59 of
+“David Copperfield;” a pleasant description being there given of the
+residential chambers of Mr. and Mrs. Traddles, as located in Gray’s Inn
+just beyond.
+
+_Mr. John Westlock_ had his bachelor apartments in this same place at
+Furnival’s Inn (_vide_ “Martin Chuzzlewit”), and here he received the
+unexpected visit of Tom Pinch on his first arrival in London.  We may
+remember the incidents of that cordial welcome, when
+
+    “John was constantly running backwards and forwards to and from the
+    closet, bringing out all sorts of things in pots, scooping
+    extraordinary quantities of tea out of the caddy, dropping French
+    rolls into his boots, pouring hot water over the butter, and making a
+    variety of similar mistakes, without disconcerting himself in the
+    least.”
+
+In the centre of the interior square, standing within the precincts of
+Furnival’s Inn during the past seventy-five years, and flourishing in
+recent days—a quiet oasis of retirement and good cheer amidst the bustle
+and noise of central London—there existed (until 1895) Woods’ Hotel.
+This hotel was associated with “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” being the
+house at which Mr. Grewgious found accommodation for the charming Rosa
+Budd (on the occasion of her flight from the importunities of Jasper at
+Cloisterham), including an “unlimited head chambermaid” for her special
+behoof and benefit.
+
+    “Rosa’s room was airy, clean, comfortable, almost gay.  The Unlimited
+    had laid in everything omitted from the very little bag (that is to
+    say, everything she could possibly need), and Rosa tripped down the
+    great many stairs again, to thank her guardian for his thoughtful and
+    affectionate care of her.
+
+    “‘Not at all, my dear,’ said Mr. Grewgious, infinitely gratified; ‘it
+    is I who thank you for your charming confidence and for your charming
+    company.  Your breakfast will be provided for you in a neat, compact,
+    and graceful little sitting-room (appropriate to your figure), and I
+    will come to you at ten o’clock in the morning.  I hope you don’t
+    feel very strange indeed, in this strange place.’
+
+    “‘Oh no, I feel so safe!’
+
+    “‘Yes, you may be sure that the stairs are fire-proof,’ said Mr.
+    Grewgious, ‘and that any outbreak of the devouring element would be
+    perceived and suppressed by the watchmen.’
+
+    “‘I did not mean that,’ Rosa replied.  ‘I mean, I feel so safe from
+    him.’
+
+    “‘There is a stout gate of iron bars to keep him out,’ said Mr.
+    Grewgious smiling; ‘and Furnival’s is fire-proof, and specially
+    watched and lighted, and _I_ live over the way!’  In the stoutness of
+    his knight-errantry, he seemed to think the last-named protection
+    all-sufficient.  In the same spirit he said to the gate-porter as he
+    went out, ‘If some one staying in the hotel should wish to send
+    across the road to me in the night, a crown will be ready for the
+    messenger.’  In the same spirit, he walked up and down outside the
+    iron gate for the best part of an hour, with some solicitude;
+    occasionally looking in between the bars, as if he had laid a dove in
+    a high roost in a cage of lions, and had it on his mind that she
+    might tumble out.”
+
+The Hotel was originally built 1818–19, and was enlarged as recently as
+1884.  Woods was the proprietor for fifty years.
+
+Crossing to the other side of the street, at a short distance onwards,
+opposite Gray’s Inn Road, the Rambler reaches (by No. 334 High Holborn)
+the gateway of Staple Inn; a little nook, composed of two irregular
+quadrangles behind the most ancient part of Holborn, where certain gabled
+houses, some centuries of age, still stand looking on the public way.
+Staple Inn was the favourite summer promenade of the meditative _Mr.
+Snagsby_ (see “Bleak House”); and in this Inn _Mr. Grewgious_ occupied a
+set of chambers.  The house is No. 10, in the inner quadrangle,
+“presenting in black and white, over its ugly portal, the mysterious
+inscription, ‘P. J. T., 1747.’  Perhaps John Thomas, or Perhaps Joe
+Tyler.”  And, under certain social conditions, “for a certainty, P. J. T.
+was Pretty Jolly Too.”  _Neville Landless_ also had rooms in this
+locality; the top set in the corner (on the right), overlooking the
+garden “where a few smoky sparrows twitter in the smoky trees, as though
+they had called to each other, ‘let us play at country.’”  Close to these
+lived _Mr. Tartar_, in “the neatest, the cleanest, and the best-ordered
+chambers ever seen under the sun, moon, and stars.”  And we may recall
+the writer’s delicate treatment of this, the blushing “beanstalk country”
+of dear little Rosa Budd.  For the several associations herewith
+connected, reference should be made to our author’s last book, “The
+Mystery of Edwin Drood.”—See concluding paragraphs of chapter 21:—
+
+    “Rosa wondered what the girls would say if they could see her
+    crossing the wide street on the sailor’s arm.  And she fancied that
+    the passers-by must think her very little and very helpless,
+    contrasted with the strong figure that could have caught her up and
+    carried her out of any danger, miles and miles without resting.
+
+    “She was thinking further, that his far-seeing blue eyes looked as if
+    they had been used to watch danger afar off, and to watch it without
+    flinching, drawing nearer and nearer: when, happening to raise her
+    own eyes, she found that he seemed to be thinking something about
+    _them_.
+
+    “This a little confused Rosebud, and may account for her never
+    afterwards quite knowing how she ascended (with his help) to his
+    garden in the air, and seemed to get into a marvellous country that
+    came into sudden bloom like the country on the summit of the magic
+    bean-stalk.  May it flourish for ever!”
+
+                     [Picture: Doorway in Staple Inn]
+
+In this connection, the reader may be interested in chapter 22; the first
+part of which deals most tenderly and beautifully with “love’s awaking,”
+in the heart of the innocent heroine.
+
+Recrossing to the other side of High Holborn, past _Gray’s Inn Road_ (on
+the north), at No. 22, we reach the gateway of GRAY’S INN.  At No. 2
+South Square (formerly Holborn Court) we may find the upper chambers
+formerly occupied by _Mr. Traddles_ and his wife _Sophy_, whose domestic
+arrangements included accommodation for “the beauty” and the other
+Devonshire sisters.  Copperfield says, in the chapter before referred
+to:—
+
+    “If I had beheld a thousand roses blowing in a top set of chambers,
+    in that withered Gray’s Inn, they could not have brightened it half
+    so much.  The idea of those Devonshire girls, among the dry
+    law-stationers, and the attorneys’ offices; and of the tea and toast,
+    and children’s songs, in that grim atmosphere of pounce and
+    parchment, red-tape, dusty wafers, ink-jars, brief and draft paper,
+    law reports, writs, declarations, and bills of costs, seemed almost
+    as pleasantly fanciful as if I had dreamed that the Sultan’s famous
+    family had been admitted on the roll of attorneys, and had brought
+    the talking-bird, the singing-tree, and the Golden water into Gray’s
+    Inn Hall.”
+
+The offices of _Mr. Perker_, the legal adviser of Mr. Pickwick, were also
+located in Gray’s Inn.  We read that the “outer door” of these chambers
+was to be found “after climbing two pairs of steep and dirty stairs;” but
+no indication is given of their exact situation.
+
+Proceeding westward from Gray’s Inn, and passing the stately, elegant,
+and commodious _First Avenue Hotel_, between Warwick Court and Brownlow
+Street, and a half-a-dozen side streets beyond, we come, on the north
+side, at No. 92, to the Bull and Anchor Tavern.  This is the house known
+in the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit” as “_The Bull Inn_,” then a more
+important hostelry than at present.  It will be remembered as the inn at
+which Mr. Lewsome, during his illness, was professionally attended by
+_Sairey Gamp_ and _Betsy Prig_, “turn and turn about.”
+
+Passing on to the next turning but one, we reach Kingsgate Street, where
+_Poll Sweedlepipes_—barber and bird-fancier—once had his business
+location, “next door but one to the celebrated mutton-pie shop, and
+directly opposite the original cat’s-meat warehouse.”  At this place the
+immortal _Mrs. Gamp_ had lodgings on the first floor, where she
+
+    “Was easily assailed at night by pebbles, walking-sticks, and
+    fragments of tobacco pipes, all much more efficacious than the
+    street-door knocker, which was so constructed as to wake the street
+    with ease, and even spread alarms of fire in Holborn, without making
+    the smallest impression on the premises to which it was addressed.”
+
+It is recollected in the neighbourhood that, fifty years since, a barber
+by the name of Patterson (who was also a bird-dealer) lived in this
+street, at the second house on the left.  The shop has been pulled down,
+is now absorbed by the corner premises in Holborn, and can be only
+identified by its position.  Here, then, did _Mr. Pecksniff_ arrive on
+his doleful mission, in accordance with the recommendation of _Mr.
+Mould_, the undertaker, with regard to the death of old _Anthony
+Chuzzlewit_; and here did that memorable teapot cause a lasting
+difference between two friends, as narrated in chapter 49 of “Martin
+Chuzzlewit.”  “This world-famous personage, Mrs. Gamp, has passed into
+and become one with the language” whose vernacular she has adorned with
+her own flowers of speech.  As Mr. Forster remarks, “she will remain
+among the everlasting triumphs of fiction, a superb masterpiece of
+English humour.”  “Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale, her infinite
+variety.”  At the Holborn corner of Kingsgate Street we may remember _Mr.
+Bailey_, _junior_, on the occasion when, at this exact spot, he collided
+with Poll Sweedlepipes, afterwards going “round and round in circles on
+the pavement,” the better to exhibit to Poll’s admiring gaze his
+fashionable livery as Tiger in the service of _Mr. Montague Tigg_,
+“rather to the inconvenience of the passengers generally, who were not in
+an equal state of spirits with himself.”
+
+The next turning but one, westward, on the right, by the West Central
+Post Office (No. 126), is Southampton Street, leading to Bloomsbury
+Square.
+
+Here it will be remembered that lodgings were taken by Mr. Grewgious for
+_Miss Twinkleton_ and Rosa, of the redoubtable _Mrs. Billickin_, “the
+person of the ’ouse,” who, from prudential motives, suppressed her
+Christian name.
+
+    “Mr. Grewgious had his agreement-lines and his earnest-money ready.
+    ‘I have signed it for the ladies, ma’am,’ he said, ‘and you’ll have
+    the goodness to sign it for yourself, Christian and Surname, there,
+    if you please.’
+
+    “‘Mr. Grewgious,’ said Mrs. Billickin in a new burst of candour, ‘no,
+    sir! You must excuse the Christian name.’
+
+    “Mr. Grewgious stared at her.
+
+    “‘The door-plate is used as a protection,’ said Mrs. Billickin, ‘and
+    acts as such, and go from it I will not.’
+
+    “Mr. Grewgious stared at Rosa.
+
+    “‘No, Mr. Grewgious, you must excuse me.  So long as this ’ouse is
+    known indefinite as Billickin’s, and so long as it is a doubt with
+    the riff-raff where Billickin may be hidin’, near the street-door or
+    down the airy, and what his weight and size, so long I feel safe.
+    But commit myself to a solitary female statement, no, Miss!  Nor
+    would you for a moment wish,’ said Mrs. Billickin, with a strong
+    sense of injury, ‘to take that advantage of your sex, if you were not
+    brought to it by inconsiderate example.’
+
+    “Rosa reddening as if she had made some most disgraceful attempt to
+    overreach the good lady, besought Mr. Grewgious to rest content with
+    any signature.  And accordingly, in a baronial way, the sign-manual
+    BILLICKIN got appended to the document.”
+
+And we may here recall the incidental passage of arms between the worthy
+landlady and Miss Twinkleton, Mrs. B. being always in direct antagonism
+with the schoolmistress, against whom she “openly pitted herself as one
+whom she fully ascertained to be her natural enemy.”  Witness “the B.
+enveloped in the shawl of State,” as she remarked to Miss Twinkleton that
+
+    “‘A rush from scanty feeding to generous feeding, from what you may
+    call messing to what you may call method, do require a power of
+    constitution, which is not often found in youth, particular when
+    undermined by boarding-school. . . .  I was put in youth to a very
+    genteel boarding-school, the mistress being no less a lady than
+    yourself, of about your own age, or it may be some years younger, and
+    a poorness of blood flowed from the table, which has run through my
+    life.’
+
+                                  * * * * *
+
+    “‘If you refer to the poverty of your circulation,’ began Miss
+    Twinkleton, when again the Billickin neatly stopped her.
+
+    “‘I have used no such expressions.’
+
+    “‘If you refer, then, to the poorness of your blood—’
+
+    “‘Brought upon me,’ stipulated the Billickin, expressly, ‘at a
+    boarding-school—’
+
+    “‘Then,’ resumed Miss Twinkleton, ‘all I can say is, that I am bound
+    to believe, on your asseveration, that it is very poor indeed.  I
+    cannot forbear adding, that if that unfortunate circumstance
+    influences your conversation, it is much to be lamented, and it is
+    eminently desirable that your blood were richer.’”
+
+Southampton Street is not a long one, and is now chiefly occupied by
+solicitors and architects; but there is reason to believe that the
+Billickins’ residence was, aforetime, to be found at No. 18, which is
+situated next door but one to an archway.  As Mrs. B. herself candidly
+pointed out,
+
+    “The arching leads to a mews; mewses must exist.”
+
+The mews aforesaid is now superseded by a factory.  Mrs. Billickin has
+long since relinquished the cares of housekeeping and retired from public
+life.  The present amiable landlady conducts the business on different
+principles, and will be at all times disposed to give her patrons
+satisfaction, whether they be of the scholastic persuasion or otherwise.
+
+Southampton Street leads immediately northward into Bloomsbury Square.
+This place is mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the locality in which _Lord
+Mansfield’s_ residence was situated at the period of the Gordon Riots.
+In chapter 66 its destruction by the rioters is thus described:—
+
+    “They began to demolish the house with great fury; and setting fire
+    to it in several places, involved in a common ruin the whole of the
+    costly furniture, the plate and jewels, a beautiful gallery of
+    pictures, the rarest collection of manuscripts ever possessed by any
+    one private person in the world, and, worst of all, because nothing
+    could replace the loss, the great Law Library, on almost every page
+    of which were notes, in the judge’s own hand, of inestimable value;
+    being the results of the study and experience of his whole life.”
+
+                    [Picture: The Children’s Hospital]
+
+The house occupied the site of No. 29, on the east side of the square.
+We subsequently read in the same book that two of the
+rioters—cripples—were hanged in this square, the execution being
+momentarily delayed, as they were placed facing the house they had
+assisted to despoil.  Leaving the square at its north-east angle (right)
+by _Bloomsbury Place_, the Rambler shortly comes into _Southampton Row_,
+turning left, and proceeding for a short distance upwards to _Cosmo
+Place_ on the right, a short cut which leads directly to the contiguous
+shades of Queen Square just beyond.  It will be remembered that in this
+neighbourhood Richard Carstone had furnished apartments at the time when
+he was pursuing the experimental study of the Law under the auspices of
+Messrs. Kenge and Carboy (see “Bleak House,” chapter 18).  There is
+reason to believe that the “quiet old” house intended was No. 28
+_Devonshire Street_, leading from the south-east angle of the square.
+
+Leaving Queen Square by _Great Ormond Street_ (eastward), we immediately
+arrive, on the north side (No. 50), at The Children’s Hospital, adjacent
+to the Catholic Church and Convent of St. John.  In 1858, February 9th, a
+public dinner was arranged, by way of charitable appeal, for funds
+necessary to carry on and develop the work.  It was happily resolved to
+invite Charles Dickens to preside on that occasion, and he “threw himself
+into the service heart and soul.”  His earnest, pathetic, but powerful
+appeal—“majestic in its own simplicity”—that night added more than £3000
+to the treasury, which amount was, two months afterwards, substantially
+increased by the proceeds of a public reading of his “Christmas Carol.”
+It is pleasant to record that this institution has ever since flourished
+amain, thus fulfilling the prediction of Dickens when, suggesting that
+the enterprise could not be possibly maintained unless the Hospital were
+made better known, he continued as follows:—
+
+    “I limit myself to saying—better known, because I will not believe
+    that, in a Christian community of fathers and mothers, and brothers
+    and sisters, it can fail, being better known, to be well and richly
+    endowed.”
+
+We may here recall the scene narrated in chapter 9 of “Our Mutual
+Friend,” when _Johnny_ makes his will and arranges his affairs, leaving
+“a kiss for the boofer lady”—
+
+    “The family whom God had brought together were not all asleep, but
+    were all quiet.  From bed to bed, a light womanly tread and a
+    pleasant fresh face passed in the silence of the night.  A little
+    head would lift itself into the softened light here and there, to be
+    kissed as the face went by—for these little patients are very
+    loving—and would then submit itself to be composed to rest again. . .
+    .  Over most of the beds, the toys were yet grouped as the children
+    had left them when they last laid themselves down, and in their
+    innocent grotesqueness and incongruity they might have stood for the
+    children’s dreams.”
+
+Proceeding eastward by _Great Ormond Street_ and turning (left) through
+_Lamb’s Conduit Street_, to its northern end, we face the entrance of the
+Foundling Hospital.  This beneficent institution was established by
+Captain Thomas Coram, about the middle of the last century, and is
+associated with “No Thoroughfare,” the Christmas number (and last in the
+series) of “All the Year Round,” 1867.  Visitors attending the morning
+service of the _Foundling Church_ on Sundays are admitted to the
+children’s _Dining-Hall_ thereafter, and so may have an opportunity of
+realising the scene portrayed by Dickens, when the “veiled lady” induced
+a female attendant to point out Walter Wilding:—
+
+    “The bright autumnal sun strikes freshly into the wards; and the
+    heavy-framed windows through which it shines, and the panelled walls
+    on which it shines, are such windows, and such walls as pervade
+    Hogarth’s pictures.  Neat attendants silently glide about the orderly
+    and silent tables, the lookers-on move or stop as the fancy takes
+    them; comments in whispers on face such a number, from such a window,
+    are not unfrequent—many of the faces are of a character to fix
+    attention.  Some of the visitors from the outside public are
+    accustomed visitors.  They have established a speaking acquaintance
+    with the occupants of particular seats at the table, and halt at
+    those points to say a word or two.”
+
+In “Little Dorrit,” too, reference is made to this institution, _in re_
+the adoption of Tattycoram by good Papa and Mamma Meagles.  In the times
+of Barnaby Rudge, the London streets were not greatly extended northward
+beyond this (now central) neighbourhood.  We may remember that the
+headquarters of the “Captain,” Sim Tappertit, Hugh, and Dennis were at
+The “Boot” Tavern, which is described as
+
+    “A lone place of public entertainment, situated in the fields at the
+    back of the Foundling Hospital; a very solitary spot at that period,
+    and quite deserted after dark.  The Tavern stood at some distance
+    from any high road, and was only approachable by a dark and narrow
+    lane.”
+
+Proceeding onwards through _Guilford Street_, we reach _Doughty Street_,
+_Mecklenburgh Square_, running transversely north and south.  On the east
+side we may note No. 48 Doughty Street, as the house to which Dickens
+removed from _Furnival’s Inn_, in the early spring of 1837, and in which
+he lived two years and a half, previous to his longer residence at _No._
+1 _Devonshire Terrace_.  In it “Oliver Twist” and “Nicholas Nickleby”
+were written; and here, too, the early friendship, which had been for
+some time steadily developing between Dickens and Forster, became
+cemented for life.  His biographer says:—
+
+    “Nor had many weeks passed before he addressed to me from Doughty
+    Street, words which it is my sorrowful pride to remember have had
+    literal fulfilment.  ‘I look back with unmingled pleasure to every
+    link which each ensuing week has added to the chain of our
+    attachment.  It shall go hard, I hope, ere anything but death impairs
+    the toughness of a bond now so firmly riveted.’”
+
+The route being retraced to the Foundling Hospital, and thence continued
+through Guilford Street to _Russell __Square_, we turn (right) by _Woburn
+Place_ to TAVISTOCK SQUARE, on the south side of which (TAVISTOCK VILLAS)
+is situated Tavistock House.  To this residence Dickens removed (from
+DEVONSHIRE TERRACE) in October 1851, retaining its possession for nearly
+ten years.  During this time “Bleak House” was completed, and “Hard
+Times,” “Little Dorrit,” and the “Tale of Two Cities” were given to the
+world.  TAVISTOCK HOUSE is now transformed into a Jewish College.  _Hans
+Christian Andersen_, visiting his friend in London, gives the following
+description:—
+
+    “In Tavistock Square stands Tavistock House.  This and the strip of
+    garden in front of it are shut out from the thoroughfare by an iron
+    railing.  A large garden, with a grass plat and high trees, stretches
+    behind the house, and gives it a countrified look in the midst of
+    this coal and gas steaming London.  In the passage from street to
+    garden hung pictures and engravings.  Here stood a marble bust of
+    Dickens, so like him, so youthful and handsome; and over a bedroom
+    door were inserted the bas-reliefs of Night and Day, after
+    Thorwaldsen.  On the first floor was a rich library, with a fireplace
+    and a writing-table, looking out on the garden; and here it was that
+    in winter Dickens and his friends acted plays to the satisfaction of
+    all parties.  The kitchen was underground, and at the top of the
+    house were the bedrooms.”
+
+                        [Picture: Tavistock House]
+
+Leaving this locality at the north-west angle, passing _Gordon Square_,
+we turn (right) into _Gordon Street_, and (left) through _Gower Place_,
+to GOWER STREET, on the west side of which—opposite—is the house once
+bearing a large brass plate on the door, announcing Mrs. Dickens’s
+Establishment, being the place at which Mrs. Dickens (mother of Charles)
+endeavoured to set up a school during the difficult times of 1822.  The
+family lived here for a short time, previous to the Marshalsea
+imprisonment of Dickens senior; Charles being then a boy ten years of
+age.  In the first chapter of Forster’s Biography is the following:—
+
+    “A house was soon found at number four, Gower Street North; a large
+    brass plate on the door announced Mrs. Dickens’s establishment; and
+    the result I can give in the exact words of the then small actor in
+    the comedy, whose hopes it had raised so high: ‘I left at a great
+    many other doors a great many circulars, calling attention to the
+    merits of the establishment.  Yet nobody ever came to school, nor do
+    I recollect that anybody ever proposed to come, or that the least
+    preparation was made to receive anybody.  But, I know that we got on
+    very badly with the butcher and baker; that very often we had not too
+    much for dinner; and that at last my father was arrested.’  . . .
+    Almost everything by degrees was pawned or sold, little Charles being
+    the principal agent in these sorrowful transactions . . . until at
+    last, even of the furniture of Gower Street, number four, there was
+    nothing left except a few chairs, a kitchen table, and some beds.
+    Then they encamped, as it were, in the two parlours of the emptied
+    house, and lived there night and day.”
+
+Gower Street has been rearranged since that time (there is now no Gower
+Street North), and the houses are renumbered.  No. 145, near _Gower
+Street Chapel_, and other houses adjoining, are now in the occupation of
+Messrs. Maple & Co.; and this No. 145 was the house then enumerated as
+No. 4 Gower Street North.  Mrs. Dickens’s experience, it will be
+remembered, has been pleasantly referred to in the pages of “Our Mutual
+Friend;” the stately _Mrs. Wilfer_ therein making a similar experiment,
+with the same result.  In chapter 4 we read of _Rumpty’s_ return home
+from business: when
+
+    “Something had gone wrong with the house door, for R. Wilfer stopped
+    on the steps, staring at it, and cried ‘Hal-loa?’  ‘Yes,’ said Mrs.
+    Wilfer, ‘the man came himself with a pair of pincers and took it off,
+    and took it away.  He said that as he had no expectation of ever
+    being paid for it, and as he had an order for another _Ladies’
+    School_ door-plate, it was better (burnished up) for the interests of
+    all parties.’”
+
+On the opposite corner of the street is the _Gower Street Station_ of the
+Metropolitan Railway, at which train may be taken to _Baker Street_.  On
+arrival, we turn to the right, by _Marylebone Road_, to Devonshire
+Terrace, consisting of three houses at the northern end of _High
+Street_,_ Marylebone_.  No. 1, now occupied by a legal firm, was for
+twelve years the residence of Charles Dickens (when in town).  It is
+described by Forster as
+
+    “A handsome house with a garden of considerable size, shut out from
+    the New Road by a brick wall, facing the York Gate into Regent’s
+    Park.”
+
+To quote the ironical dictum of its future tenant when the choice was
+made, it was “a house of great promise (and great premium), undeniable
+situation, and excessive splendour.”  During the period of the author’s
+residence here several of his best-known books were given to the
+world—“Master Humphrey’s Clock,” CHRISTMAS BOOKS, and “David Copperfield”
+included.  Proceeding forwards and eastward past _Devonshire Place_, we
+may take our way, turning on the right down Harley Street, of which we
+read in “Little Dorrit” that,
+
+    “Like unexceptionable society, the opposing rows of houses in Harley
+    Street were very grim with one another.  Indeed, the mansions and
+    their inhabitants were so much alike in that respect that the people
+    were often to be found drawn up on opposite sides of dinner tables,
+    in the shade of their own loftiness, staring at the other side of the
+    way with the dulness of the houses.  Everybody knows how like the
+    street the two dinner-rows of people who take their stand by the
+    street will be.  The expressionless uniform twenty houses, all to be
+    knocked at and rung at in the same form, all approachable by the same
+    dull steps, all fended off by the same pattern of railing, all with
+    the same impracticable fire-escapes, the same inconvenient fixtures
+    in their heads, and everything, without exception, to be taken at a
+    high valuation—who has not dined with these?”
+
+In this street lived that great financier and swindler _Mr. Merdle_, who
+had his residence in one of the handsomest of these handsome houses; but
+it would be, perhaps, invidious to point out any particular location for
+the same, Dickens himself having purposely omitted an exact address.
+Following the course of Harley Street, we come in due time to QUEEN ANNE
+STREET, running east and west.  Adopting the leftward turning (east), we
+may find at the next corner—_Mansfield Street_—on the north side, Mr.
+Dombey’s House, as described in chapter 3 of “Dombey and Son”—
+
+    “Mr. Dombey’s house was a large one, on the shady side of a tall,
+    dark, dreadfully genteel street in the region between Portland Place
+    and Bryanston Square.  It was a corner house, with great wide areas
+    containing cellars, frowned upon by barred windows, and leered at by
+    crooked-eyed doors leading to dust-bins.  It was a house of dismal
+    state, with a circular back to it, containing a whole suite of
+    drawing-rooms looking upon a gravelled yard.”
+
+It will be observed that the position and character of this mansion
+exactly correspond to the above description, being in its general style
+noteworthy and unique.  This, then, was the private establishment and
+“home department” of the Dombey family, where died the gentle Paul; the
+lonely house in which the neglected Florence grew to lovely womanhood;
+what time the second wife—the stately Edith—held temporary sway.
+
+Hence a short distance southward leads to _Cavendish Square_.  In this
+neighbourhood we read that Madame Mantalini’s fashionable dressmaking
+establishment was situated, at which Kate Nickleby was for some few weeks
+engaged, on the recommendation of her uncle.  The house intended was
+probably in _Wigmore Street_, No. 11.  In the days of the Mantalini
+_régime_ the business was advertised
+
+    “To the nobility and gentry by the casual exhibition, near the
+    handsomely-curtained windows, of two or three elegant bonnets of the
+    newest fashion, and some costly garments in the most approved taste.”
+
+By the next turning (right) on the north side we come into WIMPOLE
+STREET; on the east of which, at the corner of the third block, stands
+The West End Residence—No. 43—aforetime occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Boffin;
+which became, later on, the property of Mr. John Harmon and his wife.  It
+is described as “a corner house, not far from Cavendish Square.”  Near
+this house _Silas Wegg_—assuming some knowledge of its affairs—kept his
+street-stall.  He was accustomed to refer to it as “Our House,” its
+(imaginary) inmates being Miss Elizabeth, Master George, Aunt Jane, and
+Uncle Parker.
+
+Returning to Wigmore Street, we arrive by the next block at Welbeck
+Street, running transversely thereto.  In this street was the London
+residence of _Lord George Gordon_, as referred to in the pages of
+“Barnaby Rudge.”  The house is No. 64, the second from Wigmore Street on
+the left side.  It is within the recollection of the present landlord
+that the old balcony—from which Lord George was wont to harangue the
+public—was many years since superseded by the present continuous railing.
+
+We now come south into the West-end artery of _Oxford Street_, crossing
+same to _Davies Street_, by which we may soon reach BROOK STREET,
+GROSVENOR SQUARE, running east and west.  On the south-eastern angle of
+its intersection stands Claridge’s Hotel.  It will be remembered that on
+_Mr. Dorrit’s_ return from the Continent, after the marriage of his
+daughter Fanny, “the Courier had not approved of his staying at the house
+of a friend, and had preferred to take him to an hotel in Brook Street,
+Grosvenor Square.”  This was doubtless the establishment favoured by the
+Courier’s preference on that occasion; and where Mr. Merdle paid a state
+visit to Mr. Dorrit at breakfast-time the next morning; taking him
+afterwards in his carriage to the City.
+
+Readers of “Dombey and Son” may be reminded that the Feenix Town House
+was situated in this same BROOK STREET; but no clue is afforded of its
+exact whereabouts.  It is described as an aristocratic mansion of a dull
+and gloomy sort; and was borrowed by the _Honourable Mrs. Skewton_ from a
+stately relative, on the occasion of her daughter’s marriage.  Here also,
+in aftertime, the final interview between _Florence_ and _Edith_ took
+place.
+
+              [Picture: The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House]
+
+Keeping on through _Davies Street_ across _Berkeley Square_, we come
+through _Berkeley Street_ to Piccadilly, in the close vicinity of
+Devonshire House, a mansion of fashionable and political repute,
+belonging to the _Duke of Devonshire_.  Here, on the 27th of May 1851, in
+the great drawing-room and library, Dickens and his _confrères_ of “The
+Guild of Literature and Art” performed, for the first time, Sir Bulwer
+Lytton’s comedy (written for the occasion) “Not so Bad as We Seem,” in
+the presence of the Queen, Prince Albert and a brilliant audience.  The
+Duke not only afforded the necessary accommodation, but (as Mr. Forster
+writes), in his princely way, discharged all attendant expenses.  Many
+distinguished authors and artists assisted at this performance, including
+Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and John Leech.
+
+Near at hand, on the eastern corner of the next turning down Piccadilly
+(_Dover Street_), is HATCHETT’S HOTEL, adjoining The White Horse Cellars,
+once a well-known coaching establishment.  On the opposite side of the
+way stood in days of yore the old “White Horse Cellars,” of which Hazlitt
+writes:—
+
+    “The finest sight in the Metropolis is the setting out of the
+    mail-coaches from Piccadilly.  The horses paw the ground and are
+    impatient to be gone, as if conscious of the precious burden they
+    convey.  There is a peculiar secrecy and despatch, significant and
+    full of meaning, in all the proceedings concerning them.  Even the
+    outside passengers have an erect and supercilious air, as if proof
+    against the accidents of the journey; in fact, it seems indifferent
+    whether they are to encounter the summer’s heat or the winter’s cold,
+    since they are borne through the air on a winged chariot.”
+
+From this well-known Booking Office, _Mr. Pickwick_ and his
+friends—accompanied by the fierce _Dowler_ and his fascinating
+wife—started for Bath, one “muggy, damp, and drizzly morning, by the mail
+coach; on the door of which was displayed, in gilt letters of a goodly
+size, the magic name of ‘Pickwick’; a circumstance which seems to have
+occasioned some confusion of ideas in the mind of the faithful Sam, as
+evidenced by his indignant inquiry—‘An’t nobody to be whopped for takin’
+this here liberty?’”
+
+Readers of “Bleak House” will remember this locality as the destination
+of the Reading Coach; so indicated by _Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ in their
+first communication to _Esther Summerson_.  Here she was met, one foggy
+November afternoon, on her arrival in London, by the susceptible _Mr.
+Guppy_, and by him conducted to Old Square, Lincoln’s Inn.  The incident
+was afterwards feelingly referred to by that young gentleman, on the
+occasion of his offer of heart, hand, and income to Esther:—
+
+    “I think you must have seen that I was struck with those charms on
+    the day when I waited at the Whytorseller.  I think you must have
+    remarked that I could not forbear a tribute to those charms when I
+    put up the steps of the ’ackney coach.”
+
+For the full narrative, see “Bleak House,” chapter 9.
+
+The Rambler can now take an eastward course up PICCADILLY, and may
+casually observe, on the left, past Burlington House, THE ALBANY, where
+_Mr. Fledgby_ had chambers.  The next turning on the same side is
+SACKVILLE STREET, in which it may be recollected that _Mr. and Mrs.
+Lammles_ resided during the short term of their social prosperity.
+Mention of these localities in such connection will be found in the pages
+of “Our Mutual Friend.”  Passing onwards on the same side, we arrive at
+No. 28, St. James’s Hall.  It was at this well-known place of assembly
+that several of those popular Readings were given by Charles Dickens,
+which always commanded the attention and sympathetic interest of his
+audience.  On these occasions he invariably adopted the extreme of
+fashionable evening attire, being dressed in irreproachable style, with,
+perhaps, more of shirt-front than waistcoat; and so “got up” as to
+present a staginess and juvenility of appearance, possibly somewhat out
+of keeping with his time of life.  Some of his hearers may have desired a
+more natural and less conventional mode; but they knew that beneath the
+big shirt and fashionable coat, there throbbed the genial heart of the
+man they loved, as he read of the sorrows of “Little Emily,” or stood
+with them in spirit at the bedside of “Paul Dombey.”  On the occasion of
+his final Reading, given here in March 1870, he tendered his last public
+farewell to his London audience in the following words:
+
+    “It would be worse than idle, it would be hypocritical and unfeeling,
+    if I were to disguise that I close this episode of my life with
+    feelings of very considerable pain.  For some fifteen years, in this
+    hall and many kindred places, I have had the honour of presenting my
+    own cherished ideas before you for your recognition; and, in closely
+    observing your reception of them, have enjoyed an amount of artistic
+    delight and enjoyment, which perhaps it is given few men to know.  In
+    this task and every other, I have ever undertaken as a faithful
+    servant of the public—always imbued with a sense of duty to them, and
+    always striving to do his best—I have been uniformly cheered by the
+    readiest response, the most generous sympathy and the most
+    stimulating support.  Nevertheless, I have thought it well, at the
+    full flood-tide of your favour, to retire upon those older
+    associations between us, which date from much further back than
+    these; and henceforth to devote myself exclusively to the art that
+    first brought us together.  Ladies and gentlemen, in but two short
+    weeks from this time, I hope that you may enter, in your own homes,
+    on a new series of Readings, at which my assistance will be
+    indispensable; but from these garish lights I vanish now for ever,
+    with one heartfelt, grateful, respectful, and affectionate farewell.”
+
+On the right-hand side of Piccadilly, adjacent to the _Prince’s Hall and
+Institute of Painters_, there may be noted, _en passant_, the premises
+No. 193, now occupied by the Boys’ Messenger Co.  This, for many years,
+was the address of Messrs. Chapman and Hall, the publishers of the works
+of Dickens.  Previous to 1850, the earlier books—“Pickwick” to “Martin
+Chuzzlewit” inclusive—together with the first issue of their cheaper
+edition, were published by this well-known house at 186 _Strand_, the
+site now occupied by the premises of W. H. Smith and Son.  The firm have,
+for many years past, removed their offices to _No._ 11 _Henrietta
+Street_, _Covent Garden_.
+
+Passing on to _Piccadilly Circus_, and crossing northward from the same,
+we turn (left) into _Sherwood Street_, which leads, by a short walk, to
+_Brewer Street_, in the neighbourhood of GOLDEN SQUARE.  Continuing by
+_Lower James Street_, opposite, we reach the square itself, in which was
+formerly situated the Office of Ralph Nickleby.  Readers of Dickens will
+remember that it was a large house, with an attic storey, in which Ralph
+committed suicide.  The house No. 6, on the east side, was probably the
+one assigned by the author as the usurer’s residence.  It is now let off
+in various suites of offices, professional and otherwise.  The
+neighbourhood has somewhat changed since the time when the “Adventures of
+Nicholas Nickleby” was first issued, and the following description, given
+by Dickens, became public property:—
+
+    “It is one of the squares that have been—a quarter of the town that
+    has gone down in the world, and taken to letting lodgings.  Many of
+    its first and second floors are let, furnished, to single gentlemen,
+    and it takes boarders besides.  It is a great resort of foreigners.
+    The dark-complexioned men who wear large rings and heavy
+    watch-guards, and bushy whiskers, and who congregate under the Opera
+    Colonnade, and about the box-office in the season between four and
+    five in the afternoon, when they give away the orders—all live in
+    Golden Square, or within a street of it.  Two or three violins and a
+    wind instrument from the opera-band reside within its precincts.”
+
+We read in the same book of the whereabouts of _Mr. Kenwigs_ as being in
+this neighbourhood—
+
+    “A bygone, faded, tumble-down street, with two irregular rows of tall
+    meagre houses, which seem to have stared each other out of
+    countenance years ago; the very chimneys appear to have grown dismal
+    and melancholy from having had nothing better to look at than the
+    chimneys over the way.”
+
+There are many streets in the district of Soho, in this vicinity, which
+will in some respects correspond with the description given; but much
+alteration has taken place during the last sixty years.  Recollecting
+that _Newman Noggs_ lodged in the upper part of the same house, it must
+have been conveniently near Golden Square.  In Carnaby Street
+(immediately north of the Square) there may be remarked a white-fronted,
+old-fashioned house (No. 48), which, being in proximity to Ralph
+Nickleby’s Office, may be assigned as aforetime comprising the apartments
+of the Kenwigs Family.
+
+At the corner of _Beak Street_ and _Upper James Street_ is still existent
+“The Crown Inn,” well known to Newman Noggs; though, since his time, it
+must have undergone considerable alteration.  In his first letter to
+Nicholas Nickleby, Newman writes:—
+
+“If you ever want a shelter in London, . . . they know where I live at
+the sign of the Crown, Golden Square.  It is at the corner of Silver
+Street” [now Beak Street] “and James Street, with a bar door both ways.”
+
+In this neighbourhood, also, Martha’s Lodgings were situated, in the days
+of David Copperfield, who says:—
+
+    “She laid her hand on my arm, and hurried me on to one of the sombre
+    streets of which there are several in that part, where the houses
+    were once fair dwellings, in the occupation of single families, but
+    have, and had, long degenerated into poor lodgings let off in rooms.”
+
+Such a house may be found in _Marshall Street_, No. 53, close at hand.
+But at this distance of time it is difficult to assign the exact locality
+intended by Dickens.  We are all familiar with the welcome episode in
+David’s history when Martha rescued _Little Emily_, bringing her to these
+lodgings, and _Mr. Peggotty’s_ dream came true.—See chapter 50.
+
+Proceeding half-way up _Marshall Street_, we turn (right) through _Broad
+Street_, to (left) _Poland Street_, by which we again attain the main
+thoroughfare of Oxford Street.  Turning eastward, on the north side, we
+come at a short distance (by No. 90) to Newman Street, in which was
+situated _Mr. Turveydrop’s Dancing Academy_, “established in a
+sufficiently dingy house, at the corner of an archway” (Newman Passage),
+with Mr. Turveydrop’s great room built out into a mews at the back.  The
+house intended is No. 26, on the east side of the street.  Here _Caddy
+Jellyby_ resided with her husband, _Prince Turveydrop_, in the upper
+rooms of the establishment, leaving the better part of the house at the
+disposal of Mr. Turveydrop, senior; that “perfect model” of parental and
+social “deportment.”  Returning to Oxford Street and passing onwards on
+the south side, we shortly arrive at _Dean Street_, leading southward.
+
+At a short distance, running east and west, is Carlisle Street, at the
+further end of which, to the right, is an old house (by name Carlisle
+House) which stands facing the observer.  It is now occupied by _Messrs.
+Edwards and Roberts_, dealers in antique furniture.  Readers of “The Tale
+of Two Cities” will recollect the lodgings of Doctor Manette and daughter
+Lucie, as described in the 6th chapter (Book the Second) of the Tale,
+being situated in a quiet street-corner, not far from Soho Square:—
+
+    “A quainter corner than the corner where the Doctor lived was not to
+    be found in London.  There was no way through it, and the front
+    windows of the Doctor’s lodgings commanded a pleasant little vista of
+    street that had a congenial air of retirement on it.  There were few
+    buildings then, north of the Oxford Road, and forest-trees
+    flourished, and wild flowers grew, and the hawthorn blossomed, in the
+    now vanished fields.”
+
+The garden behind the house, referred to in the above-mentioned book, has
+been converted to the uses of a warehouse, a glass roof having been long
+ago built over the same.  A paved court now exists at the side for the
+convenience of foot-passengers, giving egress at the end of Carlisle
+Street, so that the “wonderful echoes” which once resounded in this
+“curious corner” are now no longer to be heard.
+
+It may be interesting to note that a thoroughfare leading from _No._ 119
+_Charing Cross Road_ to _No._ 6 _Greek Street_, _Soho_, is now named
+_Manette Street_; in remembrance of the worthy Doctor, whose London
+residence in Carlisle Street, as indicated, was near at hand.
+
+We may return to Oxford Street through Soho Square, conveniently
+terminating the ramble at Tottenham Court Road, just beyond.  From this
+central point there is omnibus communication to all parts of London; and
+a commodious resting-place may be here recommended to those disposed for
+dinner, at THE HORSESHOE RESTAURANT; which stands in a prominent position
+near at hand, on the east side of the street.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE V
+_Bank of England to Her Majesty’s Theatre_
+
+
+The Bank; Dombey and Son, Tom Pinch—George and Vulture Inn; Mr.
+Pickwick’s Hotel—“The Green Dragon,” _alias_ “The Blue Boar,” Leadenhall
+Market; Tony Weller’s Headquarters—Newman’s Court (_alias_ Freeman’s
+Court), Cornhill; The Offices of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg—House of Sol
+Gills, Leadenhall Street; The Wooden Midshipman—St. Mary Axe; Pubsey and
+Co.—House of Sampson Brass in Bevis Marks—“The Red Lion;”  Mr. Dick
+Swiveller’s recommendation—Bull Inn, Aldgate; Starting-place of the
+Ipswich Coach—The Minories—Aldgate Pump; Mr. Toots’s Excursions—Mincing
+Lane; Messrs. Chicksey, Veneering, and Stobbles—Boarding House of Mrs.
+Todgers, King’s Head Court—London Bridge; Meeting-place of Rose Maylie
+and Nancy—“The White Hart Inn”; its Pickwickian Associations—The
+Marshalsea Prison; The Dorrit Family—St. George’s Church; Little Dorrit’s
+Night Refuge and Marriage—Lant Street; Dickens and Bob Sawyer’s
+Lodging—King’s Bench Prison—Horsemonger Lane Gaol—Mr. Chivery’s Shop—St.
+George’s Obelisk; “the long-legged young man”—The Surrey Theatre; Fanny
+Dorrit and Uncle—Bethlehem Hospital; “Uncommercial Traveller”—Astley’s
+Theatre; visit of the Nubbles Family—Millbank; Poor “Martha”—Church
+Street, Smith Square; the Dolls’ Dressmaker—Julius Handford—Westminster
+Abbey—The Red Lion, Parliament Street; the “Genuine Stunning”—The Horse
+Guards’ Clock—St. James’s Park; Meeting between Martin and Mary—Her
+Majesty’s Theatre.
+
+Our starting-point is now the BANK OF ENGLAND, Dombey and Son’s
+
+    “Magnificent neighbour; with its vaults of gold and silver, ‘all
+    among the dead men, underground.’”
+
+_Tom Pinch_, diffident of requesting information in London, resolved
+that, in the event of finding himself near the Bank of England,
+
+    “He would step in, and ask a civil question or two, confiding in the
+    perfect respectability of the concern.”
+
+Adopting the route _viâ Lombard Street_, we come, on the left (No. 56),
+to GEORGE YARD, traversing which, there will be found, at the corner of
+Castle Court (No. 3), the George and Vulture Inn, at which Mr. Pickwick
+resided when in London, subsequent to his removal from Goswell Street;
+and which has honourable mention in the history of the Pickwickians.
+
+Through _Lombard Street_, and turning left into _Gracechurch Street_, we
+shortly arrive, on the right, at _Bull’s Head Passage_ (turning by the
+Branch Post Office, No. 82), in which, at No. 4, is the GREEN DRAGON
+TAVERN, in close proximity to Leadenhall Market.  This is, in all
+probability, the house mentioned in “Pickwick” as “The Blue Boar,”
+_Leadenhall Market_, a favourite house of call with the elder Weller, and
+the place where Sam indited his “Valentine” to _Mary_, the pretty
+housemaid, afterwards Mrs. Sam.  But the neighbourhood of the Market has
+undergone considerable renovation since the old coaching-days, and it is
+difficult to fix the _locale_ of the tavern with certainty.
+
+Proceeding onwards through _Gracechurch Street_, we come into the
+thoroughfare of CORNHILL; and at No. 73, on the opposite side, arrive at
+Newman’s Court.  It will be remembered that in “Pickwick” the offices of
+_Messrs. Dodson and Fogg_ (Mrs. Bardell’s attorneys) are located in
+Freeman’s Court, Cornhill.  There is no such place in Cornhill; Freeman’s
+Court being in Cheapside.  It is evident, therefore, that Dickens, for
+reasons of his own, emulated the special contributor to the _Eatanswill
+Gazette_, and so “combined his information.”  Taking Cornhill to be the
+locality intended, we shall find Dodson and Fogg’s Office at the furthest
+end of the Court, No. 4, still associated with legal business, being in
+possession of Messrs. Witherby and Co., law stationers.
+
+Passing onwards in Cornhill, past Bishopsgate Street, we come into
+Leadenhall Street, and may be interested to note, at No. 157 (now an
+outfitting establishment), the original position of the HOUSE OF SOL
+GILLS, ships’ instrument maker, at whose door was displayed the figure of
+
+    “The Wooden Midshipman; eternally taking observations of the hackney
+    coaches.”
+
+Here our eccentric friend _Captain Cuttle_ remained in charge during the
+absence of old Sol Gills and his nephew; here _Florence_, accompanied by
+the faithful Diogenes, found asylum; and here _Walter Gay_ returned after
+shipwreck, to make everybody happy and marry the gentle heroine of the
+story.  (See “Dombey and Son” for information _in extenso._)  Until
+recent years, these premises were in occupation of Messrs. Norie and
+Wilson, ships’ instrument makers and chart publishers.  They have removed
+to the Minories, No. 156, where the quaint effigy of _the Wooden
+Midshipman_, with his cocked hat and quadrant complete, may now be seen,
+as bright and brisk as in old days.  “When found, make a note of.”
+
+Farther on, on the same side of Leadenhall Street, we reach St. Mary Axe,
+turning northward at No. 117, which we notice _en passant_ as the
+thoroughfare in which _Pubsey and Co._ had their place of business; “a
+yellow overhanging plaster-fronted house”—reconstructed, with many
+others, some years since—at the top of which _Riah_ (the manager)
+arranged his town garden; where the Dolls’ Dressmaker invited
+_Fascination Fledgby_ to “come up and be dead.”  All of which is duly set
+forth in the pages of “Our Mutual Friend.”  The position of the house
+cannot now be localised.
+
+Proceeding to the other end of St. Mary Axe, we may turn (right) into
+_Bevis Marks_, where there once existed the House of Mr. Sampson Brass,
+No. 10, but this and others have long since been rebuilt and
+re-enumerated.  Here lived that honourable attorney and his sister the
+fair Sally; aided in their professional duties by a young gentleman of
+eccentric habits and “prodigious talent of quotation.”  Here the
+_Marchioness_ lived, or rather starved, in attendance as
+maid-of-all-work, and first made the acquaintance of Dick Swiveller, her
+future husband; being by him initiated into the mysteries of cribbage and
+the peculiarities of purl.  Here lodged the “single gentleman,” who
+evinced such exceptional interest in the national drama, and so
+discovered a clue to the retreat of Little Nell and her grandfather.
+
+On the north side of the street there still flourishes the old RED LION
+INN, an establishment patronised in his time by Mr. Richard, and once
+eulogised by that gentleman on the occasion of his specifying “the
+contingent advantages” of the neighbourhood.  “There is mild porter in
+the immediate vicinity.”
+
+For these and the other associations of this spot the tourist is referred
+to the pages of the “Old Curiosity Shop.”
+
+Following downwards through Bevis Marks and Duke Street beyond, we come
+into _Aldgate_, keeping still on the left-hand side of the way to
+_Aldgate High Street_, where at a short distance we pass the Station of
+the Metropolitan Railway.  At No. 24, just ahead, is the Bull Inn Yard,
+once the City Terminus of Coaches travelling north-east.  From this point
+Mr. Pickwick started per coach for Ipswich, accompanied by the red-haired
+Mr. Peter Magnus; Mr. Tony Weller officiating as driver.  On which
+occasion we read that Mr. Weller’s conversation, “possessing the
+inestimable charm of blending amusement with instruction,” beguiled “the
+tediousness of the journey during the greater part of the day.”
+
+Returning westward on the other side of the way, the Rambler may turn, at
+No. 81, into the _Minories_; and, at the second house on the right, may
+observe the figure of _the Wooden Midshipman_, previously referred to as
+removed from its original position in Leadenhall Street.  The route being
+continued (same side) from the Minories, we can note, as we pass into
+_Fenchurch Street_, Aldgate Pump, standing at the top of Leadenhall
+Street.  There is a reference to this old pump in “Dombey,” as being a
+stated object of _Mr. Toots’s_ special evening excursions from “The
+Wooden Midshipman,” when that gentleman desired some temporary relief
+from the hopeless contemplation of Walter Gay’s happiness.
+
+The tourist will now soon arrive at (No. 42) Mincing Lane, leading to
+Great Tower Street.  This short street is entirely occupied by wholesale
+merchants and brokers, and it will be remembered that _Messrs. Chicksey_,
+_Veneering_, _and Stobbles_, wholesale druggists, flourished in this
+locality in the days of the “Golden Dustman.”  The fourth house on the
+left from Fenchurch Street, next to _Dunster Court_, has been indicated
+as the probable whereabouts of the firm.  We may remember that R.
+Wilfer’s office was on the ground-floor, next the gateway.
+
+Here, then, in this prosaic neighbourhood, _John Rokesmith_, following
+_Bella Wilfer_, came to the warehouse where Little _Rumty_ was sitting at
+the open window at his tea, and much surprised that gentleman by a
+declaration of love for his daughter; what time “The Feast of the Three
+Hobgoblins” was so agreeably celebrated.  This place is also associated
+with other pleasant episodes connected with the history of the Wilfer
+family, the details of which are fully furnished in the pages of “Our
+Mutual Friend.”
+
+Proceeding through Mincing Lane, we turn to the right through
+_Eastcheap_, which leads westward to the top of FISH STREET HILL.  The
+tourist now proceeds southward, passing the _Monument_ on the left.  At a
+short distance beyond (No. 34) we arrive at _King’s Head Court_, “a small
+paved yard,” in which are certain city warehouses and a dairy.  On the
+south side of the court, now occupied by the warehouses aforesaid, once
+stood the Commercial Boarding-House of Mrs. Todgers—an old-fashioned
+abode even in the days of Mr. Pecksniff—which has long since given place
+to other commercial considerations.  In the 9th chapter of “Martin
+Chuzzlewit” full, true, and particular account is given of this
+establishment as it used to be.  We may here call to remembrance the
+characters of _Bailey junior_, _Mr. Jinkins_, _Augustus Moddle_, and
+others in connection with the domestic economy of Mrs. Todgers and the
+several Pecksniffian associations of the place; notably, the festive
+occasion of that Sunday’s dinner when Cherry and Merry were first
+introduced to London society; the moral Mr. Pecksniff thereafter
+exhibiting alarming symptoms of a chronic complaint.  (See chapter 9.)
+And we may indulge in a kindly reminiscence of good-hearted Mrs. Todgers
+herself, worried with the anxieties of “gravy” and the eccentricities of
+commercial gentlemen.  “Perhaps the Good Samaritan was lean and lank, and
+found it hard to live.”  We now come to London Bridge, the scene of
+Nancy’s interview with Mr. Brownlow and Rose Maylie (see “Oliver Twist”),
+which took place on the steps near St. Saviour’s Church, on the Surrey
+side of the river—
+
+    “These stairs are a part of the bridge; they consist of three
+    flights.  Just below the end of the second, going down, the stone
+    wall on the left terminates in an ornamental pilaster, facing towards
+    the Thames.”
+
+And it will be remembered that _Noah Claypole_ here ensconced himself as
+an unseen listener.
+
+As we come to the Surrey side of the Thames, a passing thought may be
+given to _Mrs. Rudge_ and her son Barnaby, who lived near at hand “in a
+by-street in Southwark, not far from London Bridge”; and we may recall
+the incident of _Edward Chester_ being brought hither by _Gabriel
+Varden_, having been found wounded by a highwayman on the other side of
+the river.  But it is altogether impossible to locate the house, the
+neighbourhood having so entirely changed during the present century.
+Onwards by the main thoroughfare of the Borough, we shall find, on the
+left-hand side of the way (No. 61), the (former) location of “The White
+Hart,” described in “Pickwick” as
+
+    “An old inn, which has preserved its external features unchanged, and
+    which has escaped alike the rage for public improvement and the
+    encroachments of private speculation.  A great, rambling, queer old
+    place, with galleries and passages and staircases, wide enough and
+    antiquated enough to furnish materials for a hundred ghost stories.”
+
+The old inn has been pulled down some years since; the original gateway
+only remains, leading to White Hart Yard.  A tavern and luncheon-bar of
+modern erection now occupy one side of the old coach-yard in which
+_Messrs. Pickwick_, _Wardle_, and _Perker_ made their first acquaintance
+with _Mr. Samuel Weller_, on that memorable occasion when _Mr. Jingle_
+had eloped from _Dingley Dell_ with _Miss Rachael Wardle_, and had
+brought the lady to this establishment.  Farther on, towards the end of
+the Borough, we arrive at Angel Place, a narrow passage near to St.
+George’s Church.  It leads into _Marshalsea Place_, of which Dickens
+writes as follows in his preface to “Little Dorrit”:—
+
+    “Whoever goes into Marshalsea Place, turning out of Angel Court,
+    leading to Bermondsey, will find his feet on the very paving-stones
+    of the extinct Marshalsea jail; will see its narrow yard to the
+    right, and to the left, very little altered if at all, except that
+    the walls were lowered when the place got free; will look upon the
+    rooms in which the debtors lived; and will stand among the crowding
+    ghosts of many miserable years.”
+
+This, then, was The Marshalsea Prison, in which, during Dickens’s
+youthful days, his father was imprisoned for debt; and the place is
+intimately associated with the story of _Little Dorrit_ and her family.
+We must be all familiar with the Father of the Marshalsea, his brother
+Frederick, Maggie, and the several others of the _dramatis personæ_ of
+that charming tale.
+
+St. George’s Church, close at hand, will be remembered in connection with
+the above, as once affording refuge in its vestry for Little Dorrit, when
+the sexton accommodated her with a bed formed of the pew-cushions, the
+book of registers doing service as a pillow.  She was afterwards married
+to Arthur Clennam in this church.  Full particulars of the ceremony will
+be found in the last chapter of the tale.  At a short distance from this
+point, down Blackman Street, on the right, is (No. 90) Lant Street.  In
+Forster’s Biography it is narrated that Dickens, when a boy, lodged in
+this street what time his father was imprisoned in the Marshalsea.  The
+house stood on part of the site now occupied by the Board School
+adjoining No. 46—
+
+    “A back attic was found for me at the house of an insolvent-court
+    agent, who lived in Lant Street, in the Borough, where _Bob Sawyer_
+    lodged many years afterwards.  A bed and bedding were sent over for
+    me, and made up on the floor.  The little window had a pleasant
+    prospect of a timber-yard; and when I took possession of my new
+    abode, I thought it was a Paradise.”
+
+This opinion of his boyhood seems to have been somewhat modified fifteen
+years later, when the “Pickwick Papers” were written, and Mr. Robert
+Sawyer had taken residence in the locality.  We read—
+
+“There is an air of repose about Lant Street, in the Borough, which sheds
+a gentle melancholy upon the soul.  A house in Lant Street would not come
+within the denomination of a first-rate residence, in the strict
+acceptation of the term; but it is a most desirable spot, nevertheless.
+If a man wished to extract himself from the world, to remove himself from
+within the reach of temptation, to place himself beyond the possibility
+of any inducement to look out of the window, he should by all means go to
+Lant Street.”
+
+Walking onwards from “this happy valley” past Suffolk Street, to the
+westward, turning off _Borough Road_, we may note on the north corner the
+site of the old King’s Bench Prison, in which _Mr. Micawber_ was
+detained—in the top storey but one—pending the settlement of his
+pecuniary liabilities.  Later on in the Copperfield history, Micawber
+appointed a meeting for David and Tom Traddles as follows:—
+
+    “Among other havens of domestic tranquillity and peace of mind, my
+    feet will naturally tend towards the King’s Bench Prison.  In stating
+    that I shall be (D.V.) on the outside of the south wall of that place
+    of incarceration on civil process, the day after to-morrow, at seven
+    in the evening, precisely, my object in this epistolary communication
+    is accomplished.”
+
+See chapter 49 for particulars of the subsequent interview.  This “_dead
+wall_” of the prison is also mentioned in the same book as the place
+where young David requested “the long-legged young man”—who had charge of
+his box for conveyance to the Dover coach-office—to stop for a minute
+while he (David) tied on the address.  It will be remembered that poor
+David lost his box and his money on this occasion, when he started for
+Dover,
+
+    “Taking very little more out of the world, towards the retreat of his
+    aunt, Miss Betsy, than he had brought into it on the night when his
+    arrival gave her so much umbrage;”
+
+the total sum of his remaining cash amounting to three half-pence.—See
+chapter 12.
+
+The first reference of our author to King’s Bench Prison will be found in
+“Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 46), on the occasion of the hero’s first
+visit to _Madeline Bray_, who resided with her father in one
+
+    “Of a row of mean and not over cleanly houses, situated within ‘the
+    rules’ of the King’s Bench Prison; . . . comprising some dozen
+    streets in which debtors who could raise money to pay large fees—from
+    which their creditors did not derive any benefit—were permitted to
+    reside.”
+
+We learn from Allen’s “History of Surrey” that these rules comprehended
+all St. George’s Fields, one side of Blackman Street, and part of the
+Borough High Street, forming an area of about three miles in
+circumference.  They could be purchased by the prisoners at the rate of
+five guineas for small debts, eight guineas for the first hundred pounds
+of debt, and about half that sum for every subsequent hundred.
+
+The site of the prison is now occupied by workmen’s model dwellings named
+“Queen’s Buildings,” divided, north and south, by Scovell’s Road.
+
+At the opposite side (east) of _Newington Causeway_, which here
+commences, is _Union Road_, late _Horsemonger __Lane_; a short distance
+down which, on its south side, is “THE PUBLIC PLAYGROUND FOR CHILDREN,”
+formerly the site of Horsemonger Lane Gaol, erected at the back of the
+Surrey Sessions House.  Here the execution of the Mannings took place,
+November 13th, 1849, on which occasion Charles Dickens was present.  The
+same day he sent a notable letter to the _Times_, directing general
+attention to the demoralising effect of such public exhibitions; thus
+setting on foot an agitation which shortly resulted in the adoption of
+our present private mode of carrying out the last penalty of the law.
+After giving a forcible and graphic picture of the night scenes enacted
+by the disorderly crowd in waiting, the letter was thus continued:—
+
+    “When the sun rose brightly—as it did—it gilded thousands upon
+    thousands of upturned faces, so inexpressibly odious in their brutal
+    mirth or callousness, that a man had cause to shrink from himself as
+    fashioned in the image of the devil.  When the two miserable
+    creatures who attracted all this ghastly sight about them, were
+    turned quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more
+    pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment,
+    no more restraint in any of the previous obscenities, than if the
+    name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there was no
+    belief among men but that they perished like the beasts.  I have
+    seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general contamination
+    and corruption in this country, and I think there are not many phases
+    of London life that could surprise me.  I am solemnly convinced that
+    nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done in this city, in the
+    same compass of time, could work such ruin as one public execution;
+    and I stand astounded and appalled by the wickedness it exhibits.”
+
+Mr. Chivery resided with his family in _Horsemonger Lane_, in close
+proximity to the old prison, and kept a tobacconist’s shop for the supply
+of his Marshalsea customers and the general public of the neighbourhood—
+
+    “A rural establishment one storey high, which had the benefit of the
+    air from the yards of Horsemonger Lane Jail, and the advantage of a
+    retired walk under the wall of that pleasant establishment.  The
+    business was of too modest a character to support a life-size
+    Highlander, but it maintained a little one on a bracket on the
+    door-post, who looked like a fallen cherub that had found it
+    necessary to take to a kilt.”
+
+In the little back-yard of the premises, “Young John”—disappointed in
+love—was accustomed to sit and meditate; taking cold among the “tuneless
+groves” of the newly-washed family linen, and composing suitable epitaphs
+to his own memory, in melancholy anticipation of an early decease.
+
+Proceeding along the Borough Road, we arrive in due course at St.
+George’s Obelisk, which stands at the meeting-point of six roads.  In the
+twelfth chapter of “David Copperfield” we read of the Obelisk as the
+place near to which the “long-legged young man with a very little empty
+donkey-cart” was standing, whom David engaged to take his box to the
+Dover coach-office for sixpence.  And we all remember the sad
+_dénouement_ of that engagement, as previously mentioned.  Near at hand,
+at the top of Blackfriars Road, stands The Surrey Theatre, at which
+_Fanny Dorrit_ was engaged as a dancer, while her Uncle Frederick played
+the clarionet in the orchestra.
+
+Crossing over to the opposite thoroughfare of _Lambeth Road_, the Rambler
+will find, at a short distance on the left, the entrance to Bethlehem
+Hospital, familiarly known as Bedlam.  A reference to this asylum will be
+found in the pages of “The Uncommercial Traveller,” where our author
+implies the idea that the sane and insane are, at all events, equal in
+their dreams—
+
+    “Are not all of us outside this Hospital, who dream more or less, in
+    the condition of those inside it, every night of our lives?”
+
+The question may afford us matter for speculation as the route is
+continued through Lambeth Road, at the end of which we turn to the right,
+in the direction of the river.  At the angle of the roads, past the
+Lambeth Police Office, we reach Christchurch, conspicuous for style and
+position, at which the Rev. Newman Hall some years since officiated.  We
+may here recall the criticism given by Dickens with reference to this
+popular preacher in the book above referred to.  See “_Two Views of a
+Cheap Theatre_,” as contained in “The Uncommercial Traveller.”
+
+We now come onwards by _Westminster Bridge Road_, passing beneath the
+span of the London and South-Western Railway.  Near Westminster Bridge,
+on the left, is the old site of Astley’s Theatre (non-existent since
+1896).  This establishment had cause to bless itself once a quarter, in
+days gone by, when Christopher Nubbles, Barbara, and friends patronised
+the performance.  We may here remember the occasion when Kit knocked a
+man over the head with his bundle of oranges for “scroudging his parent
+with unnecessary violence;” also the happy evening that followed, when
+little Jacob first saw a play and learnt what oysters meant (_vide_ the
+“Old Curiosity Shop”).  On the site formerly occupied by this favourite
+place of entertainment, there now stand five handsome houses and shops,
+Nos. 225 to 233 Westminster Bridge Road.
+
+Past a few doors beyond these, above, on the same side, we reach Lambeth
+Palace Road, turning by which we may walk (or ride by tramcar) a short
+distance southward.  Leaving on the right the seven handsome buildings of
+ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, we pass—on the left—farther on, LAMBETH EPISCOPAL
+PALACE, and cross the Thames by LAMBETH SUSPENSION BRIDGE.
+
+On the Middlesex shore we come into _Millbank Street_, and bestow a brief
+thought on Poor “Martha,” following her in imagination as she took her
+melancholy way southward in this same street, towards the waste riverside
+locality, “near the great blank prison” of Millbank, long since replaced
+by _Tate’s Gallery_.
+
+Here it will be remembered that _David Copperfield_ and his trusty friend
+_Mr. Peggotty_ saved the despairing girl from a self-sought and miserable
+death.
+
+At a few minutes’ distance northward from the bridge, _Church Street_
+will be found, leading (left) to _Smith Square_.  In this street lived
+The Dolls’ Dressmaker, little _Jenny Wren_.  The whimsical description of
+the central church—ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST’S—as given in the pages of
+“Our Mutual Friend,” may be worth comparison with the original—
+
+    “In this region are a certain little street called Church Street, and
+    a certain little blind square called Smith Square, in the centre of
+    which last retreat is a very hideous church, with four towers at the
+    four corners, generally resembling some petrified monster, frightful
+    and gigantic, on its back with its legs in the air.”
+
+The house in which Jenny and her father lived is stated to have been one
+of the modest little houses which stand at the point where the street
+gives into Smith Square.  The Rambler will observe four houses answering
+this description on the north side of Church Street; No. 9 has been
+indicated as the humble home in question, where “_the person of the
+house_” and her “_bad boy_” resided.  Here, also, _Lizzie Hexam_ lodged
+for some time after the death of her father, during the days when her
+uncertain lover, _Eugene Wrayburn_, was yet a bachelor.
+
+We may now return to the main road and continue the northward route by
+_Abingdon Street_, crossing _Old Palace Yard_.  A passing thought may
+here be given to Mr. John Harmon, the _Julius Handford_ of “Our Mutual
+Friend,” who furnished the Police authorities with his address—The
+Exchequer Coffee House, Palace Yard, Westminster.  Such a house of resort
+no longer exists in this vicinity.
+
+On the west side the Rambler passes the precincts of Westminster Abbey,
+beneath whose “high embowed roof” repose the sacred ashes of the
+illustrious dead.  To this venerable fane—the especial resting-place of
+English literary genius—we will return after our concluding ramble to the
+birthplace of our greatest English novelist.
+
+The onward road takes us past the HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, on the right, to
+PARLIAMENT STREET, leading to Whitehall and Charing Cross.  At a short
+distance up this thoroughfare is Derby Street—the first turning on the
+right; on the north corner of which there stood—until 1899—an old
+public-house, “The Red Lion” (No. 48).  This place may be specially noted
+as the house at which _young David Copperfield_ gave his “magnificent
+order” for a glass of the “Genuine Stunning,” and where the landlord’s
+wife gave him back the money and a kiss besides.  This was an actual
+experience in the boyhood of Dickens, and is referred to in Mr. Forster’s
+Biography, where the house is indicated as above.  It is now being
+rebuilt and modernised.
+
+Proceeding by Whitehall, and crossing to the opposite side of the street,
+we shortly arrive at The Horse Guards, and may take passing observation
+of the OLD CLOCK—famed for its perfection of time-keeping—by whose
+warning note _Mark Tapley_ regulated the period of the interview next
+referred to.  Passing through the arched passage beneath, we now attain
+the eastern side of St. James’s Park.  This locality will be remembered
+as the place of meeting between _Mary Graham_ and _Martin Chuzzlewit_,
+previous to his departure for America.  As the young lady was escorted by
+Mark in the early morning from a City hotel, we may be certain that the
+interview must have taken place on this side of the Park, doubtless near
+the principal gate of the promenade facing the Horse Guards’ entrance.
+
+Leaving the Park northward, by _Spring Gardens_, we come into _Cockspur
+Street_, shortly leading (left) to PALL MALL.  At the first corner of the
+latter stands Her Majesty’s Theatre.  At this establishment, as
+reconstructed during the early years of the century, _Mrs. Nickleby_
+attended, by special invitation of _Sir Mulberry Hawk_, Messrs. Pyke and
+Pluck assisting on that notable occasion, when, by a prearranged
+coincidence, Kate and the Wititterlys occupied the adjoining box.—_Vide_
+“Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 27.
+
+This Opera House was burnt down 1789, and rebuilt the following year.  It
+was remodelled 1818, and again destroyed by fire, December 6, 1867.
+Being a second time rebuilt, it was, for some seasons, closed since 1875.
+The present theatre is of recent and splendid erection.
+
+At this central position, from which we may readily take departure for
+any point in London, the present Ramble will terminate.  To all those
+needing reparation of tissue, a visit to Epitaux’s Restaurant, near the
+Haymarket Theatre, will be satisfactory.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE VI
+_Excursion to Chatham_, _Rochester_, _and Gadshill_
+
+
+Emmanuel Church; Mr. Wemmick’s Wedding—Dulwich; Mr. Pickwick’s
+Retirement—Dulwich Church; Marriage of Snodgrass and Emily
+Wardle—Cobham—“The Leather Bottle;” Tracy Tupman’s Retreat—Mr. Pickwick’s
+Discovery—Chatham—Railway Street; Rome Lane Elementary School—The Brook;
+Residence of the Dickens Family—Clover Lane Academy; Rev. William Giles,
+Schoolmaster—Fort Pitt; Dr. Slammer’s Duelling-Ground; the Recreation
+Ground of Chatham—Star Hill; Old Rochester Theatre; Mr. Jingle’s
+Engagement—Rochester; Eastgate House; The Nuns’ House—Mr. Sapsea’s
+Residence—Restoration House; Residence of Miss Havisham, “Satis
+House”—[Joe Gargery’s Forge; Parish of Cooling]—The Monk’s Vineyard—Minor
+Canon Row—Rochester Cathedral; The Crypts—Durdles—The Cathedral Tower—St.
+Nicholas Church—The College Gate; John Jasper’s Lodging—Watts’s Charity;
+“The Seven Poor Travellers”—[Watts’s Almshouses]—Miss Adelaide
+Procter—The Bull Hotel; the Ball-room—The Crown Hotel; “The Crozier”—The
+Esplanade—Rochester Bridge; Richard Doubledick—Gadshill Place; Residence
+of Dickens—Gravesend; Embarkation of Mr. Peggotty and friends—Greenwich
+Park; “Sketches by Boz”—Church of St. Alphege; Bella Wilfer’s
+Marriage—Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern; “An Innocent Elopement;” The
+Rokesmith Wedding Dinner.
+
+Starting from the _Holborn Viaduct_ or _Ludgate Hill Station_ of the
+London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we cross the Thames and proceed _en
+route_ for the Kentish uplands.  At ten minutes’ distance from the London
+terminus, passing the Elephant and Castle and Walworth Road Stations, we
+may observe (on the left) the back of Emmanuel Church, as the train
+slackens speed for _Camberwell_.  This may be noted as the place where
+_Mr. Wemmick_ and _Miss Skiffins_ were united in the bonds of matrimony;
+so we may here suitably recall the scene narrated in “Great
+Expectations,” and the informal and unexpected procedure adopted by Mr.
+W. on that occasion—
+
+    “We went towards Camberwell Green, and when we were thereabouts,
+    Wemmick said suddenly, ‘Halloa!  Here’s a church!’  There was nothing
+    very surprising in that; but again I was rather surprised when he
+    said, as if he were animated by a brilliant idea, ‘Let’s go in!’  We
+    went in and looked all round.  In the meantime Wemmick was diving
+    into his coat pockets, and getting something out of paper there.
+    ‘Halloa!’ said he.  ‘Here’s a couple of pairs of gloves!  Let’s put
+    ’em on!’  As the gloves were white kid gloves, I now began to have my
+    strong suspicions.  They were strengthened into certainty, when I
+    beheld the Aged enter at a side door, escorting a lady.  ‘Halloa!’
+    said Wemmick.  ‘Here’s Miss Skiffins!  Let’s have a wedding!’ . . .
+    True to his notion of seeming to do it all without preparation, I
+    heard Wemmick say to himself, as he took something out of his
+    waistcoat pocket before the service began, ‘Halloa!  Here’s a ring!’
+    . . .  ‘Now, Mr. Pip,’ said Wemmick triumphantly, as we came out,
+    ‘let me ask you whether anybody would suppose this to be a wedding
+    party.’”
+
+The route being continued past _Herne Hill Station_, the train arrives at
+Dulwich, which we may recollect _en passant_ as being the locality of Mr.
+Pickwick’s retirement, before the days of railway locomotion.  The
+house—a white, comfortable-looking residence—stands (left) near the
+station, as we approach, corresponding in style and position with its
+Pickwickian description.  _Mr. Tupman_, too, may have been met with in
+olden time, walking in the public promenades or loitering in the Dulwich
+Picture Gallery—“with a youthful and jaunty air”—still in the enjoyment
+of single blessedness, and the cynosure of the numerous elderly ladies of
+the neighbourhood.
+
+_Mr. Snodgrass_ and _Emily Wardle_, as we all know, were married at
+DULWICH CHURCH, in this vicinity; the wedding guests—including “the poor
+relations, who got there somehow”—assembling at Mr. Pickwick’s new house
+on that interesting occasion; and we may remember the general verdict
+then unanimously given as to the elegance, comfort, and suitability of
+our old friend’s suburban retreat—
+
+    “Nothing was to be heard but congratulations and commendations.
+    Everything was so beautiful!  The lawn in front, the garden behind,
+    the miniature conservatory, the dining-room, the drawing-room, the
+    bedrooms, the smoking-room; and, above all, the study—with its
+    pictures and easy chairs, and odd cabinets and queer tables, and
+    nooks out of number, with a large cheerful window opening upon a
+    pleasant lawn, and commanding a pretty landscape, just dotted here
+    and there with little houses, almost hidden by the trees.”
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Weller and family—retainers in the Pickwickian
+establishment—also flourished aforetime in these arcadian groves, in
+faithful attendance on their illustrious patron.
+
+The journey being resumed, we pass onwards (Crystal Palace on the right
+side of the railway) _viâ Penge_ and _Bromley_, and several country towns
+beyond—a pleasant ride of about an hour’s duration—arriving in due course
+at Sole Street Station (30 miles from London), about a mile south-west
+from the village of Cobham.  A pleasant walk of twenty minutes on the
+high road will lead the wayfarer through Owlet to the pretty parish
+aforesaid; the rural retreat—famous in the annals of Pickwickian
+history—selected by _Mr. Tracy Tupman_ for his retirement from the world,
+after his disappointment at the hands of Miss Rachael Wardle.
+
+                 [Picture: The “Leather Bottle”, Cobham]
+
+“The Leather Bottle Inn”—where he was found at dinner by his anxious
+friends—is described as “a clean and commodious village ale-house,” and
+still maintains its favourable repute.  It stands opposite the church at
+Cobham—
+
+    “At Muggleton they procured a conveyance to Rochester.  By the time
+    they reached the last-named place, the violence of their grief had
+    sufficiently abated to admit of their making a very excellent early
+    dinner; and having procured the necessary information relative to the
+    road, the three friends set forward again in the afternoon to walk to
+    Cobham.
+
+    “A delightful walk it was; for it was a pleasant afternoon in June,
+    and their way lay through a deep and shady wood, cooled by the light
+    wind which gently rustled the thick foliage, and enlivened by the
+    songs of the birds that perched upon the boughs.  The ivy and the
+    moss crept in thick clusters over the old trees, and the soft green
+    turf overspread the ground like a silken mat.  They emerged upon an
+    open park, with an ancient hall, displaying the quaint and
+    picturesque architecture of Elizabeth’s time.  Long vistas of stately
+    oaks and elm-trees appeared on every side; large herds of deer were
+    cropping the fresh grass; and occasionally a startled hare scoured
+    along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by the light
+    clouds which swept across a sunny landscape like a passing breath of
+    summer.  ‘If this,’ said Mr. Pickwick, looking about him, ‘if this
+    were the place to which all who are troubled with our friend’s
+    complaint came, I fancy their old attachment to this world would very
+    soon return.’
+
+    “‘I think so too,’ said Mr. Winkle.
+
+    “‘And really,’ added Mr. Pickwick, after half-an-hour’s walking had
+    brought them to the village, ‘really, for a misanthrope’s choice,
+    this is one of the prettiest and most desirable places of residence I
+    ever met with.’
+
+    “In this opinion also both Mr. Winkle and Mr. Snodgrass expressed
+    their concurrence; and having been directed to the Leather Bottle, a
+    clean and commodious village ale-house, the three travellers entered,
+    and at once inquired for a gentleman of the name of Tupman.  The
+    three friends entered a long, low-roofed room, furnished with a large
+    number of high-backed leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes,
+    and embellished with a great variety of old portraits.  At the upper
+    end of the room was a table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered
+    with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and et ceteras; and at the table sat
+    Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a man who had taken his leave of the
+    world as possible.”
+
+Resting here awhile, we may recall the “immortal discovery” made by Mr.
+Pickwick, “which has been the pride and boast of his friends and the envy
+of every antiquarian in this or any other country”—that famous stone
+found by the chairman of the Pickwick Club himself; “partially buried in
+the ground in front of a cottage door,” in this same village of Cobham,
+on which “the following fragment of an inscription was clearly to be
+deciphered”:—
+
+                      [Picture: Cobham Inscription]
+
+Full particulars are duly recorded in “The Pickwick Papers,” chapter 11.
+We may also remember the celebrated controversy in scientific and erudite
+circles, to which this remarkable stone gave rise; Mr. Pickwick being
+“elected an honorary member of seventeen native and foreign societies for
+the discovery.”
+
+The journey being resumed from Sole Street, we travel _viâ Strood_, ten
+miles, to the important station of
+
+
+
+CHATHAM.
+
+
+Mr. Pickwick’s description (taken from his note-book sixty years since)
+is a fairly correct view of the general appearance of Chatham at
+present:—
+
+    “The principal productions of these towns appear to be soldiers,
+    sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers, and dockyardmen.  The
+    commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine
+    stores, hard-bake, apples, flat-fish, and oysters.  The streets
+    present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the
+    conviviality of the military.”
+
+In this city five years of Dickens’s boyhood were passed.  Mr. Dickens,
+senior, was appointed in 1816 to a clerkship at the Naval Pay Office, in
+connection with the Royal Dockyard, and the Dickens family here resided
+till little Charles was nine years of age.
+
+On arrival at the Chatham Station, we may enter the town on the right
+from the railway exit (north side of the line), shortly passing under an
+archway into Railway Street—formerly Rome Lane—in which was once situated
+the elementary school where the boy first attended, with his sister
+Fanny.  Revisiting Chatham in after years, Dickens found that it had been
+pulled down
+
+    “Ages before, but out of the distance of the ages, arose,
+    nevertheless, a not dim impression that it had been over a dyer’s
+    shop; that he went up steps to it; that he had frequently grazed his
+    knees in doing so; and that in trying to scrape the mud off a very
+    unsteady little shoe, he generally got his leg over the scraper.”
+
+At the upper end of Railway Street we proceed (right) by the _High
+Street_, and at a short distance (left) by _Fair __Row_ to the _Brook_.
+Turning to the left, we shall find, standing immediately beyond the
+corner, on the west side, the old Residence of the Dickens Family, No.
+18, next door to _Providence Chapel_.  The house is a modest-looking
+dwelling of three storeys, with white-washed plaster front as in former
+days, six steps leading up to the front door, and a small garden before
+and behind.  The chapel previously referred to has been, in more recent
+years, used for meetings of the Salvation Army, since becoming a clothing
+factory.  During the residence of the family at Chatham, the minister of
+this place of worship was a _Mr. William Giles_, who was also the
+schoolmaster of Clover Lane Academy.  For the last two years of Charles’s
+Chatham experience he was placed under the educational supervision of
+this young Baptist minister, whose influence seems to have been
+favourable to the development of his pupil’s youthful talents.
+
+Regaining the High Street by _Fair Row_, and turning to the left for a
+short distance onwards, we reach, on the right hand of the street, past
+the Mitre Hotel, Clover Street, on the south side of which (at the corner
+of Richard Street) the Academy, with its playground behind, may still be
+seen.  Forster says:—
+
+    “Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense in after years, that this
+    first of his masters, in his little-cared-for childhood, had
+    pronounced him to be a boy of capacity; and when, about half-way
+    through the publication of Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver
+    snuff-box with admiring inscription to ‘the inimitable Boz,’ it
+    reminded him of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first
+    year’s examination in the Clover Lane Academy.”
+
+Coming through Clover Street, and turning (right) into the _New Road_, we
+shortly regain the neighbourhood of Chatham Station, on the south side of
+which a road in the westward direction leads to Fort Pitt, now the
+Chatham Military Hospital.  Pickwickians will remember that Fort Pitt was
+indicated by Lieutenant Tappleton, the friend of the choleric _Doctor
+__Slammer_, as being in the vicinity of a field where the quarrel between
+the doctor and Mr. Winkle could be adjusted.  This old field, and the
+contiguous land surrounding the Fort, now form The Recreation Ground of
+the City.  Visitors may hence obtain an interesting and comprehensive
+view of the town and neighbourhood.  We are, doubtless, all familiar with
+the happy termination of the affair of honour above referred to; the
+unworthy Jingle being at the bottom of the mischief.  Full particulars of
+the dilemma may be found in chapter 2 of “The Pickwick Papers.”
+
+Returning to the New Road, the Rambler, passing ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S
+HOSPITAL (founded in the eleventh century) on the right, may proceed by
+_Star Hill_, in the outskirts of Rochester.  On the south side (left) of
+the descent there may be noted _en passant_ the new building of the
+ROCHESTER CONSERVATIVE CLUB, which stands on the site of The Old Theatre.
+Here the versatile Mr. Jingle and his melancholic friend, “elegantly
+designated Dismal Jemmy,” were engaged to perform “in the piece that the
+Officers of the Fifty-second” got up, when Mr. Pickwick commenced his
+travels, May 1827.
+
+The theatre was demolished December 1884.
+
+Continuing the route, we soon arrive at the central street of the old
+City of
+
+
+
+ROCHESTER.
+
+
+This place will be interesting to readers of Dickens for its several
+associations with his books, including “Pickwick,” “Great Expectations,”
+“The Seven Poor Travellers,” and “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” his latest
+and uncompleted work.  In chapter 3 of this last-mentioned tale is the
+following description:—
+
+    “An ancient city, Cloisterham, and no meet dwelling-place for any one
+    with hankerings after the noisy world.  A monotonous, silent city,
+    deriving an earthly flavour throughout, from its Cathedral crypt. . .
+    .  A drowsy city, Cloisterham, whose inhabitants seem to suppose,
+    with an inconsistency more strange than rare, that all its changes
+    lie behind it, and that there are no more to come. . . .  So silent
+    are the streets of Cloisterham (though prone to echo on the smallest
+    provocation), that of a summer day the sunblinds of its shops scarce
+    dare to flap in the south wind; while the sun-browned tramps who pass
+    along and stare, quicken their limp a little that they may the sooner
+    get beyond the confines of its oppressive respectability.  This is a
+    feat not difficult of achievement, seeing that the streets of
+    Cloisterham city are little more than one narrow street by which you
+    get into it, and get out of it; the rest being mostly disappointing
+    yards with pumps in them and no thoroughfare—exception made of the
+    Cathedral-close, and a paved Quaker settlement. . . .  In a word, a
+    city of another and a bygone time is Cloisterham, with its hoarse
+    Cathedral bell, its hoarse rooks hovering about the Cathedral tower,
+    its hoarser and less distinct rooks in the stalls far beneath.
+    Fragments of old wall, saint’s chapel, chapter-house, convent, and
+    monastery have got incongruously or obstructively built into many of
+    its houses and gardens, much as kindred jumbled notions have become
+    incorporated into many of its citizens’ minds.  All things in it are
+    of the past.”
+
+                   [Picture: Eastgate House, Rochester]
+
+Entering the busier part of the town by the Eastgate thoroughfare, we may
+shortly observe, on the right, Eastgate House, now occupied by the CITY
+OF ROCHESTER WORKMEN’S CLUB.  It is a fine old Elizabethan building; a
+well-preserved specimen of the domestic architecture of the sixteenth
+century.  The building abuts on the street, with a large courtyard and
+entrance at the side; and a spacious garden is attached at the back of
+the house.  For more than fifty years (until about twenty years since)
+this establishment flourished as a ladies’ boarding-school, and is
+referred to in the pages of “Edwin Drood” as The Nuns’ House, the
+seminary conducted by the eminently respectable _Miss Twinkleton_—
+
+    “In the midst of Cloisterham stands the Nuns’ House; a venerable
+    brick edifice, whose present appellation is doubtless derived from
+    the legend of its conventual uses.  On the trim gate enclosing its
+    old courtyard, is a resplendent brass plate flashing forth the
+    legend, ‘Seminary for young Ladies.  Miss Twinkleton.’  The
+    house-front is so old and worn, and the brass plate is so shining and
+    staring, that the general result has reminded imaginative strangers
+    of a battered old beau with a large modern eye-glass stuck in his
+    blind eye.”
+
+On the opposite side of the High Street (Nos. 146 and 147) stands Mr.
+Sapsea’s House.  It will be remembered that we are introduced to _Mr.
+Thomas Sapsea_, auctioneer and Mayor of Cloisterham, in the 4th chapter
+of the same book, as being “the purest jackass” in the town; adopting, in
+his voice and style, the professional mannerism of his superiors—
+
+    “Mr. Sapsea ‘dresses at’ the Dean; has been bowed to for the Dean, in
+    mistake; has even been spoken to in the street as My Lord, under the
+    impression that he was the Bishop come down unexpectedly, without his
+    chaplain.  Mr. Sapsea is very proud of this, and of his voice, and of
+    his style.  He has even (in selling landed property) tried the
+    experiment of slightly intoning in his pulpit, to make himself more
+    like what he takes to be the genuine ecclesiastical article.  So, in
+    ending a Sale by Public Auction, Mr. Sapsea finishes off with an air
+    of bestowing a benediction on the assembled brokers, which leaves the
+    real Dean—a modest and worthy gentleman—far behind.”
+
+Much of the humorous element of the tale is connected with this
+character.  According to local tradition, Mr. S. is supposed to be a
+combination of two well-known townsmen, formerly resident in _Rochester_;
+a councilman who lived at the above address, and an auctioneer, once
+mayor of the city, over whose door the pulpit spoken of in “Edwin Drood”
+could have been seen—
+
+    “Over the doorway is a wooden effigy, about half life-size,
+    representing Mr. Sapsea’s father, in a curly wig and toga, in the act
+    of selling.  The chastity of the idea, and the natural appearance of
+    the little figure, hammer, and pulpit, have been much admired.”
+
+Both the aforesaid local prototypes have departed this life some time
+since, and the premises have been occupied by others (equally competent,
+but less pretentious) of that ilk.
+
+                 [Picture: Restoration House, Rochester]
+
+We now turn on the left into _Crow Lane_; at the further end of which, on
+the south side, stands Restoration House, another specimen of the
+Elizabethan style, in the present occupation of Stephen T. Aveling, Esq.
+This residence is of interest as being the _Satis House_ of “Great
+Expectations,” in which _Miss Havisham_ lived.  We may recollect the
+circumstance of _Pip_ being escorted in _Mr. Pumblechook’s_ chaise-cart
+to this address, “to play” for the diversion of Miss Havisham.  Here he
+first met _Estella_, who then treated him with extreme contempt, but with
+whom he fell desperately in love notwithstanding.  Pip says, when
+speaking of his departure from the house:—
+
+    “I set off on the four-mile walk to our forge, pondering, as I went
+    along, on all I had seen, and deeply revolving that I was a common
+    labouring-boy: that my hands were coarse; that my boots were thick;
+    that I had fallen into a despicable habit of calling knaves Jacks;
+    that I was much more ignorant than I had considered myself last
+    night, and generally that I was in a low-lived bad way.”
+
+[Joe Gargery’s Forge and wooden house were in the little village of
+_Cooling_, six miles north of Rochester.  The greater part of the parish
+is marsh-land, extending to the Thames.  Mr. Forster recalls, in his
+biography, the occasion when he and his friend stood on the spot; Dickens
+saying that “he meant to make it the scene of the opening of his
+story—Cooling Castle ruins, and the desolate church lying out among the
+marshes, seven miles from Gadshill.”  Here it was that Pip met the
+convict _Magwitch_—by secret appointment—and supplied him with “wittles”
+and a file, thus materially influencing his own future fortunes.]
+
+Turning to the left, we reach the _Promenade and Recreation Ground_,
+called “The Vines,” an open space of more than three acres, formerly the
+vinery of the ancient Priory.  It is referred to in “Edwin Drood,”
+chapter 14, as the Monk’s Vineyard, in which, near a wicket-gate in a
+corner, Edwin met the old woman from the opium-smoking den in the East
+end of London, from whom he received warning of a threatened danger.
+This is the last occasion that we read of Edwin Drood previous to his
+mysterious disappearance—
+
+    “The woman’s words are in the rising wind, in the angry sky, in the
+    troubled water, in the flickering lights.  There is some solemn echo
+    of them even in the Cathedral chime, which strikes a sudden surprise
+    to his heart as he turns in under the archway of the Gate house.  And
+    so he goes up the postern stair.”
+
+Passing on the right the handsome residence of the Head Master of the
+Grammar School, we cross the Vines, and turn on the right hand to Minor
+Canon Row, a terrace of seven red-brick houses at the north end of _St.
+Margaret Street_ and on the south side of the Cathedral Close.  This
+locality bears the appellation, in the before-mentioned book, of Minor
+Canon Corner, the residence of the _Rev. Septimus Crisparkle_ and his
+mother, the “china shepherdess.”  In chapter 6 we find the following
+pleasant reference to the same:—
+
+    “Minor Canon Corner was a quiet place in the shadow of the Cathedral,
+    which the cawing of the rooks, the echoing footsteps of rare passers,
+    the sound of the Cathedral bell, or the roll of the Cathedral organ,
+    seemed to render more quiet than absolute silence. . . .  Red-brick
+    walls harmoniously toned down in colour by time, strong-rooted ivy,
+    latticed windows, panelled rooms, big oaken beams in little places,
+    and stone-walled gardens where annual fruit yet ripened upon monkish
+    trees, were the principal surroundings of pretty old Mrs. Crisparkle
+    and the Reverend Septimus as they sat at breakfast.”
+
+Immediately north of this position stands the old Cathedral of Rochester,
+with its “well-known massive grey square tower,” in which, we may
+remember, the respected _Mr. John Jasper_ was engaged as Lay Precentor;
+with the reputation of being devoted to his art, and “having done such
+wonders with the choir.”  In the interior, on the wall of the south-west
+transept, is a quaint monument to the memory of _Richard Watts_, a
+prominent townsman to whom further reference will be made.  Underneath
+this is placed a brass memorial-tablet, inscribed—
+
+    “CHARLES DICKENS.—Born at Portsmouth, seventh of February 1812.  Died
+    at Gadshill Place, by Rochester, ninth of June 1870.  Buried in
+    Westminster Abbey.  To connect his memory with the scenes in which
+    his earliest and his latest years were passed, and with the
+    associations of Rochester Cathedral and its neighbourhood, which
+    extended over all his life, this tablet, with the sanction of the
+    Dean and Chapter, is placed by his executors.”
+
+The author’s latest suggestive sketch, in association with this ancient
+fane, may be here suitably recalled:—
+
+    “A brilliant morning shines on the old city.  Its antiquities and
+    ruins are surpassingly beautiful, with the lusty ivy gleaming in the
+    sun, and the rich trees waving in the balmy air.  Changes of glorious
+    light from moving boughs, songs of birds, scents from gardens, woods,
+    and fields—or, rather, from the one great garden of the whole
+    cultivated island in its yielding time—penetrate into the Cathedral,
+    subdue its earthy odour, and preach the Resurrection and the Life.
+    The cold stone tombs of centuries ago grow warm; and flecks of
+    brightness dart into the sternest marble corners of the building,
+    fluttering there like wings.”
+
+The Crypts below contain the “buried magnates of ancient time and high
+degree,” with whom Durdles, the stonemason, was on terms of intimate
+familiarity—
+
+    “In the demolition of impedimental fragments of wall, buttress, and
+    pavement he has seen strange sights. . . .  Thus he will say,
+    ‘Durdles come upon the old chap, by striking right into the coffin
+    with his pick.  The old chap gave Durdles a look with his open eyes,
+    as much as to say, Is your name Durdles?  Why, my man, I’ve been
+    waiting for you a Devil of a time!’ And then he turned to powder.
+    With a two-foot rule always in his pocket, and a mason’s hammer all
+    but always in his hand, Durdles goes continually sounding, and
+    tapping all about and about the Cathedral; and whenever he says to
+    Tope, ‘Tope, here’s another old ’un in here,’ Tope announces it to
+    the Dean as an established discovery.”
+
+It is believed that the prototype of this character was an old German
+working stonemason, who lived at Rochester many years since.  He employed
+himself by carving various grotesque figures out of odd fragments of soft
+stone found in the Cathedral crypt, which he begged for the purpose; and
+it is recollected that he was accustomed to carry these articles of
+_vertu_ about the town, tied up in a coloured handkerchief; also that,
+whenever he succeeded in effecting a sale, he immediately celebrated the
+transaction by getting very tipsy.  He lodged at a public-house named
+“The Fortune of War,” now known as “_The Lifeboat_.”
+
+Chapter 12, headed “A Night with Durdles,” contains a description of the
+ascent of the Cathedral Tower, to the following effect:—
+
+    “They go up the winding staircase . . . among the cobwebs and the
+    dust.  Twice or thrice they emerge into level low-arched galleries,
+    whence they can look down into the moonlight nave. . .  Anon they
+    turn into narrower and steeper staircases, and the night air begins
+    to blow upon them, and the chirp of some startled jackdaw or
+    frightened rook precedes the heavy beating of wings in a confined
+    space, and the beating down of dust and straws upon their heads.  At
+    last, leaving their light behind a stair—for it blows fresh up
+    here—they look down on Cloisterham, fair to see in the moonlight: its
+    ruined habitations and sanctuaries of the dead, at the tower’s base:
+    its moss-softened red-tiled roofs and red-brick houses of the living,
+    clustered beyond: its river winding down from the mist on the
+    horizon, as though that were its source, and already heaving with a
+    restless knowledge of its approach towards the sea.”
+
+Before leaving the Cathedral precincts, on the north side we soon pass
+St. Nicholas Church, and may note its pleasant little graveyard—“where
+daisies blossom on the verdant sod”—lying near the old walls of the
+Castle and its contiguous gardens.  It is said that this is the spot
+which Dickens himself would have preferred as his last resting-place.
+
+We now approach the High Street by The College Gate (facing _Pump Lane_),
+an old gatehouse with archway, having two exterior doors, standing
+angle-wise in the street, with a small postern at the back of the gate.
+The house, now occupied by the assistant verger, is a gabled wooden
+structure of two storeys, built over the stone gateway beneath.  Students
+of Dickens will remember that this was the residence of _Mr. Tope_,
+“chief verger and showman” of the Cathedral, with whom lodged Mr. John
+Jasper, the uncle of Edwin Drood.  It is first referred to in the 2nd
+chapter of the book: “an old stone gatehouse crossing the Close, with an
+arched thoroughfare passing beneath it,” decorated by “pendant masses of
+ivy and creeper covering the building’s front.”  Here Mr. Jasper
+entertained his nephew and his nephew’s friend; and we also read of _Mr.
+Grewgious_ climbing “the postern stair.”  On this latter occasion the old
+lawyer called on Mr. Jasper, visiting Cloisterham in preparation for
+their formal release as trustees on Edwin’s attaining his majority.
+
+Turning to the right, on the opposite side of the High Street, we soon
+reach a stone-fronted edifice, with small windows and three gables, known
+as The Poor Travellers’ House.  This charity was established 1579, by a
+local philanthropist, RICHARD WATTS, formerly citizen of Rochester, who
+rose from a humble position to be Member of Parliament for the City.  He
+entertained Queen Elizabeth at his mansion (in 1573), a white house
+situated near the Castle gardens, and called _Satis House_.  It will be
+recollected that Dickens transferred this name to Restoration House,
+situated in Crow Lane.  It is said that the appellation was bestowed on
+the mansion by the virgin queen herself, in recognition of the
+“satisfactory” entertainment afforded by her host.  _Estella_ gives
+another explanation of the title: “It meant, when it was given, that
+whoever had this house could want nothing else.  They must have been
+easily satisfied.”
+
+Watts’s Charity, the Travellers’ Rest aforesaid, is associated with the
+Christmas Number of _Household Words_ (1854), entitled “THE SEVEN POOR
+TRAVELLERS;” in which the inscription over the quaint old door is
+reproduced as follows:—
+
+                             RICHARD WATTS, ESQ.,
+                      by his will dated 22 August 1579,
+                             founded this charity
+                           for six poor travellers,
+                      Who not being Rogues, or Proctors
+                      may receive gratis for one night,
+                           Lodging, Entertainment,
+                             and four-pence each.
+
+The entertainment herein specified comprises for each traveller, a supper
+of half a pound of freshly-cooked meat, one pound of bread, and a
+half-pint of beer, which is given in addition to the stated fourpence
+payable in the morning.
+
+[This gentleman’s memory is also perpetuated in the charitable annals of
+the district by a handsome pile of buildings, in the Elizabethan style,
+on the Maidstone Road, called WATTS’S ALMSHOUSES—with pleasure-grounds in
+front, affording accommodation for ten men and ten women, who also
+receive twelve shillings each per week.  The Institution is superintended
+by a matron and governed by sixteen trustees.]
+
+We are doubtless familiar with the Christmas Eve entertainment here
+provided by the narrator of “The Seven Poor Travellers,” as above:—
+
+    “It was settled that at nine o’clock that night a Turkey and a piece
+    of Roast Beef should smoke upon the board, and that I, faint and
+    unworthy minister for once of Master Richard Watts, should preside as
+    the Christmas-supper host of the six Poor Travellers.”
+
+And we must all have a vivid recollection of the processional order of
+supply on that festive opportunity:—
+
+                        “Myself with the pitcher.
+                              Ben with Beer.
+       Inattentive Boy with hot            Inattentive Boy with hot
+               plates.                             plates.
+                               THE TURKEY.
+
+             Female carrying sauces to be heated on the spot.
+
+                                THE BEEF.
+
+           Man with Tray on his head, containing Vegetables and
+                                Sundries.
+
+                 Volunteer Hostler from Hotel, grinning,
+                      and rendering no assistance.”
+
+After hearty discussion of the orthodox plum-pudding and mince-pies which
+crowned the feast, the company drew round the fire, and the “brown
+beauty” of the host—the pitcher, carried first in the procession—was
+elevated to the table.  It proved to be “a glorious jorum” of hot
+Wassail, prepared from the chairman’s special and private receipt, the
+materials of which, “together with their proportions and combinations,”
+he declines to impart.  Glasses being filled therefrom, the toast of the
+evening was duly and reverently honoured: “CHRISTMAS!  CHRISTMAS EVE, my
+friends; when the Shepherds, who were poor travellers too, in their way,
+heard the angels sing, ‘On earth peace.  Goodwill toward men!’”
+
+The pen of the “Inimitable” was never in more genial feather than when
+inditing this Christmas story, the cheery and sympathetic humour of which
+is not excelled even by the “Carol” itself.
+
+Another Dickensian association with this Rochester Charity may be quoted
+in connection with Miss Adelaide Procter.  During ’54 this lady had been
+a valued contributor to _Household Words_, under the assumed name of
+“Berwick,” and some speculation arose in the editorial department as to
+the real personality of the writer.  The _nom de plume_ being, in course
+of time, relinquished, and the secret told, Mr. Dickens sent a letter of
+congratulation and appreciation to the young authoress—dated December
+17th, 1854—which thus concluded: “Pray accept the blessing and
+forgiveness of Richard Watts, though I am afraid you come under _both his
+conditions of exclusion_.”
+
+Retracing the High Street route, we again pass the Gate-house of the
+Cathedral Close, and come, immediately on the left, to the noted Bull
+Hotel, a commodious establishment of ancient and respectable repute, and
+the principal posting-house of the town.  This is the celebrated hostelry
+at which the Pickwickians sojourned on the occasion of their first visit
+to Rochester, per “Commodore” coach from London.  In the large
+assembly-room upstairs—“a long room, with crimson-covered benches, and
+wax candles in glass chandeliers, with the musicians securely confined in
+an elevated den”—the memorable Ball took place, on the evening of their
+arrival, which was attended by _Mr. Tupman_ and his seductive friend
+_Jingle_; the latter affording some information as to the exclusive
+character of Rochester society:—
+
+    “‘Wait a minute,’ said the stranger, ‘fun presently—nobs not come
+    yet—queer place.  Dockyard people of upper rank don’t know Dockyard
+    people of lower rank.  Dockyard people of lower rank don’t know small
+    gentry—small gentry don’t know tradespeople—Commissioner don’t know
+    anybody.’”
+
+Here Mr. Jingle, on that fateful occasion, gave dire offence to Doctor
+Slammer, of the 97th Regiment, by making himself obtrusively agreeable to
+the rich little widow, Mrs. Budger; and we may remember how the Doctor,
+with his “hitherto bottled-up indignation effervescing from all parts of
+his countenance in a perspiration of passion,” insisted on a hostile
+meeting.
+
+The hotel has a frontage of about 90 feet, with wide pillared gateway,
+and extensive stabling at the back.  Proceeding past the Guildhall on the
+right, towards the end of the street, facing Rochester Bridge, we arrive
+at The Crown Hotel, pleasantly situated at the corner of the Esplanade
+and High Street, one side of the house facing the Medway; a white-brick
+edifice lately rebuilt.  It is referred to in chapter 18 of “Edwin Drood”
+as “_The Crozier_,” the orthodox hotel at which _Mr. Datchery_ took up
+his temporary abode, previous to settling in Cloisterham as “a single
+buffer—an idle dog who lived upon his means.”  Other visitors to
+Rochester may advantageously imitate Mr. Datchery’s example, the position
+and conduct of the house being alike excellent.
+
+Round the corner to the left, commences The Esplanade, extending under
+the castle walls, and along the bank of the river for a considerable
+distance.  This promenade is mentioned in the 13th chapter of “Edwin
+Drood,” being the scene of the last interview between Edwin and Rosa,
+when they mutually agreed to cancel the irksome bond between them—
+
+    “They walked on by the river.  They began to speak of their separate
+    plans.  He would quicken his departure from England, and she would
+    remain where she was, at least as long as Helena remained.  The poor
+    dear girls should have their disappointment broken to them gently,
+    and, as the first preliminary, Miss Twinkleton should be confided in
+    by Rosa, even in advance of the reappearance of Mr. Grewgious.  It
+    should be made clear in all quarters that she and Edwin were the best
+    of friends.  There had never been so serene an understanding between
+    them since they were first affianced.”
+
+Leaving Rochester by The Bridge, crossing the Medway, we may bestow a
+passing thought on _Richard Doubledick_ as he came over the same, “with
+half a shoe to his dusty feet,” in the year 1799, limping into the town
+of Chatham.  (See “The Seven Poor Travellers,” previously mentioned.)
+
+                        [Picture: Gadshill Place]
+
+On the north side of the river, the Rambler enters the town of _Strood_,
+and may proceed through the same, about two miles on the Gravesend Road,
+to
+
+
+
+GADSHILL PLACE,
+
+
+the last residence of Charles Dickens.  It is situated on the left-hand
+side, nearly opposite the _Falstaff Inn_.  The house was purchased by him
+on the 14th of March 1856, for £1790; and he afterwards projected and
+carried out many costly additions and improvements thereto.  On the
+first-floor landing is displayed an illuminated frame (the work of Mr.
+Owen Jones), which reads as follows:—
+
+“THIS HOUSE, GADSHILL PLACE, stands on the summit of Shakespeare’s
+Gadshill, ever memorable for its association with Sir John Falstaff in
+his noble fancy—‘_But_, _my lads_, _my lads_, _to-morrow morning_, _by
+four o’clock_, _early at Gadshill_! _there are pilgrims going to
+Canterbury with rich offerings_, _and traders riding to London with fat
+purses_: _I have vizards for you all_; _you have horses for
+yourselves_.’”
+
+On this residence Dickens had fixed his choice in his boyish days.  It
+had always held a prominent place amid the recollections connected with
+his childhood.  Forster says that “upon first seeing it as he came from
+Chatham with his father, and looking up at it with admiration, he had
+been promised that he might live in it himself, or some such house, when
+he came to be a man, if he would only work hard enough.”  It is pleasant
+to record that this ambition was gratified in after life, when the dream
+of his boyhood was realised.
+
+In the contiguous shrubbery was placed a Swiss Chalet, presented to
+Dickens by his friend Mr. Fechter, which arrived from Paris in
+ninety-four pieces, fitting like the joints of a puzzle.  Our author was
+fond of working in this chalet during the summer months; and in it, much
+of the material of his latest work was prepared.
+
+In sad association with Gadshill Place, we must refer to the unexpected
+Death of Charles Dickens, which occurred here on the 9th of June 1870.
+He had been feeling weary and fatigued for some days previous to this
+date, but had nevertheless continued to work with cheerfulness, writing
+in the chalet, in preparation of the sixth number of “Edwin Drood.”  On
+the 8th of June, whilst at dinner, he was suddenly attacked with
+apoplexy, and never spoke afterwards; and on the evening of the following
+day—with one rolling tear and one deep sigh—his gentle spirit soared
+beyond these earthly shadows,
+
+                    “Into the Land of the Great Departed,
+                            Into the Silent Land.”
+
+An interval being allowed for refreshments at the Falstaff Inn, _à
+discrétion_, we may resume the road onwards to the nearest station of
+HIGHAM—about a mile distant—whence the South-Eastern Railway may be taken
+for the homeward journey.  At five miles’ distance we reach Gravesend,
+which is situated at the foot of the hills, extending for some two miles
+on the south side of the Thames.  This town is the boundary of the port
+of London, at which many outward and homeward bound vessels on foreign
+service receive or discharge their passengers and freight.  As we pass
+this station we may remember that in chapter 57 of “David Copperfield,”
+Gravesend is referred to as the starting-point of Mr. Peggotty and his
+niece, emigrating to Australia, and accompanied by _Martha_, _Mrs.
+Gummidge_, _and the Micawber family_.  The parting with his friends David
+describes as follows:—
+
+    “We went over the side into our boat, and lay at a little distance to
+    see the ship wafted on her course.  It was then calm, radiant sunset.
+    She lay between us and the red light, and every taper line and spar
+    was visible against the glow.  A sight at once so beautiful, so
+    mournful, and so hopeful, as the glorious ship lying still on the
+    flushed water, with all the life on board her crowded at the
+    bulwarks, and there clustering for a moment, bareheaded and silent, I
+    never saw.  Silent, only for a moment.  As the sails rose to the
+    wind, and the ship began to move, there broke from all the boats
+    three resounding cheers, which those on board took up and echoed
+    back, and which were echoed and re-echoed . . .  Surrounded by the
+    rosy light . . . they solemnly passed away.”
+
+Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the Rambler
+will arrive in due course at the station of GREENWICH, eighteen miles
+from Gravesend.  Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the south side
+of the line—through _London Street_, turning right by end of _Church
+Street_—will lead us to the entrance of Greenwich Park.  This well-known
+place of popular resort was referred to by Dickens in his first
+contributions to the _Evening Chronicle_, 1835, which were afterwards
+collected under the name of “Sketches by Boz.”  The sketch is entitled
+“_Greenwich Fair_,” and gives descriptions of the doings in the park at
+that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality—
+
+    “The principal amusement is to drag young ladies up the steep hill
+    which leads to the Observatory, and then drag them down again at the
+    very top of their speed, greatly to the derangement of their curls
+    and bonnet-caps, and much to the edification of lookers-on from
+    below.”
+
+From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by _Church
+Street_, on the left hand of which, past _London Street_, stands the
+Church of St. Alphege, a handsome edifice in classic style.  The happy
+wedding of _Bella Wilfer_ and _John Rokesmith_, otherwise _Harmon_, here
+took place, in the presence of a “gruff and glum old pensioner” from the
+neighbouring hospital, with two wooden legs.  We may also recall the
+circumstance of Mr. and Mrs. Boffin’s attendance, that worthy couple
+being hid away near the church organ.
+
+Following the route northward, we may soon reach _King William Street_,
+by the river side, in which is situated Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern.  This
+is the place where the “lovely woman” and her father once dined together
+on the occasion of their “innocent elopement.”  (See “Our Mutual Friend,”
+chapter 8, Book 2.)  It may be also remembered as the hotel at which was
+celebrated the wedding dinner of _Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith_ aforesaid,
+“dear little Pa” being the honoured guest of that blissful opportunity.
+We may here also recollect the dignified bearing of the head waiter—The
+Archbishop of Greenwich—“a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a white
+cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than _the_ clergyman, and
+seemed to have mounted a great deal higher in the church.”
+
+Leaving GREENWICH, a short ride of twenty minutes (six miles), following
+the course of the river, will bring us to the CHARING CROSS TERMINUS, in
+central London.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE VII
+Excursion to Canterbury and Dover
+
+
+Route by London, Chatham and Dover Railway, _viâ_ Sittingbourne and
+Faversham to Canterbury; The Queen’s Head Inn, “the little hotel”
+patronised by the Micawbers—By Mercery Lane and Christ Church Gate to
+Cathedral Close for King’s School, the Establishment at which David
+Copperfield was educated—Dr. Strong’s House—The Fleur de Lys Hotel; Mr.
+Dick’s stopping-place at Canterbury—The George and Dragon Inn; the old
+London Coach Office—Palace Street and Church of St. Alphege; the scene of
+Dr. Strong’s marriage to Miss Annie Markleham—No. 65 North Lane, the
+“’umble dwelling” of Uriah Heep, afterwards the residence of the Micawber
+Family—71 St. Dunstan Street; Mr. Wickfield’s house, and Home of
+Agnes—Canterbury to Dover—Corner of Church and Castle Streets, Market
+Place; David’s resting-place—Priory Hill, Stanley Mount; Miss Betsy
+Trotwood’s Residence—“The King’s Head”; Mr. Lorry, Lucie Manette, and
+Miss Pross—The Staplehurst Disaster—Postscript to “Our Mutual Friend.”
+
+The excursion proposed in Ramble VI. to Chatham, Rochester, Gadshill,
+etc. (see page 82), could be advantageously extended to include
+CANTERBURY and DOVER, for visiting the localities in these towns
+associated with the history of David Copperfield.
+
+Beyond Chatham the journey is continued on the LONDON, CHATHAM AND DOVER
+RAILWAY, by three minor stations to SITTINGBOURNE, formerly a favourite
+resting-place for pilgrims (as its name would seem to indicate) _en
+route_ for Canterbury; but the modern mode of travel only now
+necessitates a halt of twenty minutes.  Passing TEYNSHAM and FAVERSHAM,
+the train proceeds by the intermediate station of SELLING, to the fair
+old city of
+
+
+
+CANTERBURY,
+
+
+pleasantly situated on the banks of the Stour.  Seat of the Primate of
+England, where, as Mr. Micawber writes, “the society may be described as
+a happy admixture of the agricultural and the clerical.”  A quaint and
+quiet cathedral town, redolent with fragrant memories of _Agnes
+Wickfield_, fairest type of English womanhood—her father, and friends.
+
+Proceeding from the station towards the Cathedral, by CASTLE STREET, we
+reach the old Roman road of WATLING STREET (extending from Chester to
+Dover), at the south corner of which (right), and facing ST. MARGARET
+STREET, stands the “Queen’s Head Inn.”  This is “the little hotel”
+patronised by Mr. and Mrs. Micawber on the occasion of their first visit
+to Canterbury, as related in chapter 17 of “David Copperfield”—“Somebody
+turns up.”
+
+    “It was a little inn where Mr. Micawber put up, and he occupied a
+    little room in it, partitioned off from the commercial room, and
+    strongly flavoured with tobacco smoke.  I think it was over the
+    kitchen, because a warm greasy smell appeared to come up through the
+    chinks in the floor, and there was a flabby perspiration on the
+    walls.  I know it was near the bar, on account of the smell of
+    spirits and jingling of glasses.  Here, recumbent on a small sofa,
+    underneath a picture of a race-horse, with her head close to the
+    fire, and her feet pushing the mustard off the dumb-waiter at the
+    other end of the room, was Mrs. Micawber, to whom Mr. Micawber
+    entered first, saying, ‘My dear, allow me to introduce to you a pupil
+    of Dr. Strong’s.’”
+
+It will be remembered that the amiable lady thus referred to, here
+confidentially explained to David the reason of their visit to this part
+of the country—
+
+    “‘Mr. Micawber was induced to think, on inquiry, that there might be
+    an opening for a man of his talent in the Medway Coal Trade.  Then,
+    as Mr. Micawber very properly said, the first step to be taken
+    clearly was to come and see the Medway; which we came and saw.  I say
+    ‘we,’ Master Copperfield, ‘for I never will,’ said Mrs. Micawber with
+    emotion, ‘I never will desert Mr. Micawber. . . .  Being so near
+    here, Mr. Micawber was of opinion that it would be rash not to come
+    on and see the Cathedral—firstly, on account of its being so well
+    worth seeing, and our never having seen it; and, secondly, on account
+    of the great probability of something turning up in a cathedral
+    town.’”
+
+We may also recollect the dinner and convivial evening thereafter,
+celebrated two days later at this address, when David attended as the
+honoured guest of the occasion—
+
+    “We had a beautiful little dinner.  Quite an elegant dish of fish;
+    the kidney-end of a loin of veal, roasted; fried sausage-meat; a
+    partridge, and a pudding.  There was wine, and there was strong ale;
+    and after dinner Mrs. Micawber made us a bowl of hot punch with her
+    own hands.  Mr. Micawber was uncommonly convivial.  I never saw him
+    such good company.  He made his face shine with the punch, so that it
+    looked as if it had been varnished all over.  He got cheerfully
+    sentimental about the town, and proposed success to it, observing
+    that Mrs. Micawber and himself had been made extremely snug and
+    comfortable there, and that he never should forget the agreeable
+    hours they had passed in Canterbury.”
+
+Later on there is recorded in the Copperfield autobiography (chapter 42)
+how David, accompanied by his aunt and friends—Messrs. Dick and
+Traddles—sojourned for the night at this same hotel.  They had arrived at
+Canterbury by the Dover Mail, as desired by Mr. Micawber, in readiness to
+assist the next day at the memorable “Explosion” which resulted in the
+final discomfiture of _Uriah Heep_, “the Forger and the Cheat”—
+
+    “At the hotel where Mr. Micawber had requested us to await him, which
+    we got into, with some trouble, in the middle of the night, I found a
+    letter, importing that he would appear in the morning punctually at
+    half-past nine.  After which, we went shivering at that uncomfortable
+    hour to our respective beds, through various close passages, which
+    smelt as if they had been steeped for ages in a solution of soup and
+    stables.”
+
+Following the course of St. Margaret Street northward, and passing (left)
+the old CHURCH OF ST. MARGARET—recently restored by Sir Gilbert Scott—we
+soon arrive at the central main thoroughfare, which here divides the
+town, extending from St. Dunstan’s Church (west) to the New Dover Road,
+leaving Canterbury on the east.
+
+Crossing the HIGH STREET, and continuing northward through the narrow
+thoroughfare of MERCERY LANE (on the opposite side)—once the resort of
+the many pilgrims who came aforetime to worship at the shrine of
+Thomas-à-Becket—we enter the precincts of the Cathedral by CHRIST CHURCH
+GATE (16th century).
+
+Turning to the right within the Close, and passing the secluded
+residences of several “grave and reverend seigniors,” we may find, on the
+farther side, King’s School, an educational establishment of good repute
+and old foundation, pleasantly and quietly situated.  The school is
+supervised by certain “worthy and approved good masters,” successors to
+the amiable DOCTOR STRONG and assistants, under whose careful tutorship
+David Copper-field was educated after his adoption by Miss Betsy
+Trotwood.  In the commencement of chapter 16 of his autobiography, David
+thus describes the place:—
+
+    “Next morning, after breakfast, I entered on school life again.  I
+    went, accompanied by Mr. Wickfield, to the scene of my future
+    studies—a grave building in a courtyard, with a learned air about it
+    that seemed very well suited to the stray rooks and jackdaws who came
+    down from the Cathedral towers to walk with a clerkly bearing on the
+    grass-plot—and was introduced to my new master, Doctor Strong.”
+
+Doctor Strong’s Private Residence—at which “some of the higher scholars
+boarded”—is an antiquated house, situated at the corner of LADY’S GREEN
+(No. 1), at a short distance eastward.  Here David was a frequent
+visitor, learning particulars of the Doctor’s history, and becoming
+intimate with the various personages therewith connected.  Pleasant
+reminiscences of the doings and sayings of _Mrs. Markleham_—“the Old
+Soldier” (so called by the boys “on account of her generalship, and the
+skill with which she marshalled great forces of relations against the
+Doctor”)—the tender associations which cluster round the story of
+_Annie_, the good doctor’s true-hearted wife; with a casual recollection
+of the family cousin—_Mr. Jack Maldon_—(no better than he should be)—may
+combine to enhance the interest of a visit to this old-fashioned but
+comfortable home.
+
+Crossing the LADY’S GREEN towards the gate of the ancient AUGUSTINIAN
+MONASTERY, and proceeding onwards by MONASTERY STREET, we may find at the
+end and corner of the street, on the left hand, a noteworthy
+antique-looking house, partly incorporated with a second gate of the old
+Monastery, at present the residence of a gentleman of the medical
+profession.  In bygone time this house was a point of considerable
+attraction to David during his later school-days at Canterbury, as being
+the home of “The Eldest Miss Larkins,” his second love.  In chapter 18,
+as we may remember, is contained a very pleasant piece of natural
+sketching, entitled “A Retrospect,” comprising, _inter alia_, the story
+of his youthful passion.  David says:—
+
+    “I worship the eldest Miss Larkins.  The eldest Miss Larkins is not a
+    little girl.  She is a tall, dark, black-eyed, fine figure of a
+    woman.  The eldest Miss Larkins is not a chicken, for the youngest
+    Miss Larkins is not that, and the eldest must be three or four years
+    older.  Perhaps the eldest Miss Larkins may be about thirty.  My
+    passion for her is beyond all bounds. . . .  Everything that belongs
+    to her, or is connected with her, is precious to me.  Mr. Larkins (a
+    gruff old gentleman with a double chin, and one of his eyes immovable
+    in his head) is fraught with interest to me. . . .  I regularly take
+    walks outside Mr. Larkins’s house in the evening, though it cuts me
+    to the heart to see the officers go in, or to hear them up in the
+    drawing-room, where the eldest Miss Larkins plays the harp.  I even
+    walk, on two or three occasions, in a sickly spooney manner, round
+    and round the house after the family are gone to bed, wondering which
+    is the eldest Miss Larkins’s chamber (and pitching, I dare say now,
+    on Mr. Larkins’s instead), wishing that a fire would burst out; that
+    the assembled crowd would stand appalled; that I, dashing through
+    them with a ladder, might rear it against her window, save her in my
+    arms, go back for something she had left behind, and perish in the
+    flames.”
+
+The Drawing-Room here mentioned is situated above the old Monastery Gate,
+between the two towers which stand on either side.  We may recollect it
+was here that David, having received an invitation to a private ball
+given at the Larkins’s, enjoyed his first dance with “his dear divinity;”
+afterwards being introduced to _Mr. Chestle_, a hop-grower from the
+neighbourhood of Ashford, “a friend of the family,” and—alas for
+David!—the future husband of the eldest Miss Larkins—
+
+    “I waltz with the eldest Miss Larkins!  I don’t know where, among
+    whom, or how long.  I only know that I swim about in space with a
+    blue angel, in a state of blissful delirium. . . .  I am lost in the
+    recollection of this delicious interview, and the waltz, when she
+    comes to me again, with a plain, elderly gentleman, who has been
+    playing whist all night, upon her arm, and says, ‘Oh, here is my bold
+    friend!  Mr. Chestle wants to know you, Mr. Copperfield.’  I feel at
+    once that he is a friend of the family, and am much gratified. . . .
+    I think I am in a happy dream.  I waltz again with the eldest Miss
+    Larkins.  She says I waltz so well!  I go home in a state of
+    unspeakable bliss, and waltz in imagination, all night long, with my
+    arm round the blue waist of my dear divinity.”
+
+Proceeding westward, we pass along the opposite roadway which faces the
+house above referred to, by Church Street St. Paul, and Burgate Street,
+to the Old Cathedral entrance.
+
+As the Rambler returns, again traversing Mercery Lane, there may be noted
+on the left—No. 14—a respectable Butcher’s Shop, now in the keeping of
+Mr. Cornes.  It is evident from its position, near Christ Church Gate,
+that this was the establishment where flourished, in days of yore, that
+obnoxious “young butcher” who was “the terror of the youth of
+Canterbury,” and the especial enemy of the pupils at King’s School.  In
+chapter 18—“A Retrospect”—Copperfield writes as follows:—
+
+    “There is a vague belief abroad that the beef suet with which he
+    anoints his hair gives him unnatural strength, and that he is a match
+    for a man.  He is a broad-faced, bull-necked young butcher, with
+    rough red cheeks, an ill-conditioned mind, and an injurious tongue.
+    His main use of this tongue is to disparage Dr. Strong’s young
+    gentlemen.  He says publicly that if they want anything he’ll give it
+    ’em.  He names individuals among them (myself included) whom he could
+    undertake to settle with one hand, and the other tied behind him.  He
+    waylays the smaller boys to punch their unprotected heads, and calls
+    challenges after me in the open streets.  For these sufficient
+    reasons I resolve to fight the butcher.
+
+    “It is a summer evening, down in a green hollow, at the corner of a
+    wall.  I meet the butcher by appointment.  I am attended by a select
+    body of our boys; the butcher by two other butchers, a young
+    publican, and a sweep.  The preliminaries are adjusted, and the
+    butcher and myself stand face to face.  In a moment the butcher
+    lights ten thousand candles out of my left eyebrow.  In another
+    moment I don’t know where the wall is, or where I am, or where
+    anybody is.  I hardly know which is myself and which the butcher; we
+    are always in such a tangle and tussle, knocking about upon the
+    trodden grass.  Sometimes I see the butcher, bloody but confident;
+    sometimes I see nothing, but sit gasping on my second’s knee;
+    sometimes I go in at the butcher madly, and cut my knuckles open
+    against his face, without appearing to discompose him at all.  At
+    last I awake, very queer about the head, as from a giddy sleep, and
+    see the butcher walking off, congratulated by the two other butchers
+    and the sweep and publican, and putting on his coat as he goes, from
+    which I augur justly that the victory is his.”
+
+But a few years afterwards David—ætat. 17—becomes a better match for his
+opponent; and we read in the same chapter how—after his youthful
+disappointment _in re_ “the eldest Miss Larkins”—having received new
+provocation from the butcher, he goes out to battle a second time, and
+gloriously defeats him.
+
+Turning again on the right into the main central thoroughfare, we may
+find, on the south side, the Fleur de Lys Hotel—34 High Street.  A
+well-appointed and respectable establishment, at which, in the time of
+Copperfield’s school-days, Mr. Dick was in the habit of stopping every
+alternate Wednesday, arriving from Dover by the stage-coach on his
+special fortnightly visits to David.  We read that
+
+    “These Wednesdays were the happiest days of Mr. Dick’s life; they
+    were far from being the least happy of mine.  He soon became known to
+    every boy in the school, and though he never took an active part in
+    any game but kite-flying, was as deeply interested in all our sports
+    as any one among us.”
+
+On the opposite (north) side of the road stands the old-fashioned George
+and Dragon Inn—No. 18 High Street.  In the days of Copperfield, the
+London and Dover Coach, passing _en route_ through Canterbury, stopped
+here for change of horses.  At this inn, therefore, was the “COACH
+OFFICE,” referred to in chapter 17 as being the place of arrival and
+departure of Mr. Dick, as aforesaid.  This London Coach is also mentioned
+in the closing paragraph of the same chapter, David being on his way to
+offer Micawber a soothing word of comfort in reply to a dismal letter
+just received from that “Beggared Outcast”—
+
+    “Halfway there, I met the London coach with Mr. and Mrs. Micawber up
+    behind; Mr. Micawber, the very picture of tranquil enjoyment, smiling
+    at Mrs. Micawber’s conversation, eating walnuts out of a paper bag,
+    with a bottle sticking out of his breast pocket.  As they did not see
+    me, I thought it best, all things considered, not to see them.  So,
+    with a great weight taken off my mind, I turned into a by-street that
+    was the nearest way to school, and felt, upon the whole, relieved
+    that they were gone, though I still liked them very much,
+    nevertheless.”
+
+Turning on the right (northward) from High Street, by a short
+intermediate road, the Rambler approaches PALACE STREET, on the east side
+of which, near the western end of the Cathedral, stands the Church of St.
+Alphege.  This edifice was casually referred to by the “Old Soldier,”
+_Mrs. Markleham_, as the church where the marriage of her daughter Annie
+with the worthy Dr. Strong was solemnised.  The reference occurs, by way
+of interruption on the part of Mrs. M., during a very touching conference
+between the doctor and his wife, as related in “Copperfield,” chapter
+45—“Mr. Dick fulfils my aunt’s predictions.”
+
+Passing onwards through ST. PETER’S STREET to WESTGATE STREET, crossing
+the western branch of the river, we come by a turning on the right to
+NORTH LANE, in which is situated the former Residence of Uriah Heep.  It
+is a small two-storeyed house with plastered front, on the right side,
+near the entrance of the lane—No. 65; the “’umble dwelling” to which
+David was introduced as described in chapter 17 of his history—
+
+    “We entered a low, old-fashioned room, walked straight into from the
+    street, and found there Mrs. Heep, who was the dead image of Uriah,
+    only short. . . .  It was a perfectly decent room, half parlour and
+    half kitchen, but not at all a snug room.  The tea things were set
+    upon the table, and the kettle was boiling on the hob.  There was a
+    chest of drawers with an escritoire top, for Uriah to read or write
+    at of an evening; there was Uriah’s blue bag lying down and vomiting
+    papers; there was a company of Uriah’s books commanded by Mr. Tidd;
+    there was a corner cupboard, and there were the usual articles of
+    furniture.  I don’t remember that any individual object had a bare,
+    pinched, spare look, but I do remember that the whole place had.”
+
+Returning to the main street, we pass the ancient WEST GATE—a fine
+specimen of medieval architecture, built between two massive round
+towers, with battlements and portcullis—and continue westward by ST.
+DUNSTAN STREET.  At a short distance onwards, on the south side of the
+thoroughfare, nearly facing the approach to the SOUTH-EASTERN Railway
+Station, there may be observed—No. 71—an old picturesque timbered house,
+with three projecting gables and antiquated windows.  This was the
+Residence of Mr. Wickfield, as described by David, in chapter 15, when he
+was first taken to Canterbury by Miss Betsy Trotwood—
+
+    “At length we stopped before a very old house, bulging out over the
+    road; a house with long low lattice windows bulging out still
+    farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends, bulging out too, so
+    that I fancied the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see who
+    was passing on the narrow pavement below.  It was quite spotless in
+    its cleanliness.  The old-fashioned brass knocker on the low arched
+    door, ornamented with carved garlands of fruit and flowers, twinkled
+    like a star; the two stone steps descending to the door were as white
+    as if they had been covered with fair linen; and all the angles and
+    corners and carvings and mouldings, and quaint little panes of glass,
+    and quainter little windows, though as old as the hills, were as pure
+    as any snow that ever fell upon the hills.”
+
+This house does not answer in every respect to the full description as
+contained in the book.  The “little round tower that formed one side of
+the house”—containing Uriah Heep’s circular office—being wanting to
+complete; but we may readily imagine that this existed, some sixty years’
+since, at the western side, in the space now occupied by some gates and a
+roof of more modern erection.  This residence must certainly be located
+in the _main London road_, as David—referring, at the close of chapter
+15, as above, to his recent pedestrian journey from the Metropolis to
+Dover—speaks of his “coming through that old city and passing that very
+house he lived in, without knowing it.”
+
+[Some friends resident at Canterbury have been disposed to locate Mr.
+Wickfield’s house at No. 15 BURGATE STREET, now in occupation of the
+legal firm of Messrs. Fielding and Plummer (names, by-the-bye, which are
+used by Dickens in “The Cricket on the Hearth”); but neither the house
+nor its position will in any way correspond with Copperfield’s
+description of the same.]
+
+                       [Picture: The Home of Agnes]
+
+Here then was the Home of _Agnes_—that finest delineation of feminine
+portraiture ever conceived by our author—the central figure of the many
+pure and beautiful associations which entwine themselves with the chief
+interests of this most charming tale.  In view of the personal history
+and character of its heroine, we may well understand Thackeray’s eulogium
+of his contemporary, as providing for the delectation of his daughters
+“the pure pages of David Copperfield;” and we can as readily appreciate
+the preference of Charles Dickens himself, when he says:—
+
+    “Of all my books I like this the best.  It will be easily believed
+    that I am a fond parent to every child of my fancy, and that no one
+    can ever love that family as dearly as I love them.  But, like many
+    fond parents, I have, in my heart of hearts, a favourite child, and
+    his name is David Copperfield.”
+
+Leaving CANTERBURY by the direct line of the LONDON, CHATHAM AND DOVER
+RAILWAY, we are carried onward through a pleasant country towards the
+south-east coast; the white roads of the district indicating the abundant
+chalkiness of the soil.  In Copperfield’s 13th chapter, narrating the
+circumstances of his long tramp to Dover, he says, “From head to foot I
+was powdered almost as white with chalk and dust as if I had come out of
+a lime-kiln.”
+
+Passing three minor stations, the train arrives at DOVER PRIORY—about
+which more anon—whence it proceeds through an intervening tunnel to the
+town station, at the old port of
+
+
+
+DOVER.
+
+
+The town is of especial interest to readers of “David Copperfield,” as
+containing on its suburban heights the cottage residence of Miss Trotwood
+and Mr. Dick.
+
+Proceeding eastward from the station, a short distance along COMMERCIAL
+QUAY; turning left, then right; and walking onwards _viâ_ SNARGATE, BENCH
+and KING STREETS, the Rambler may reach the Market Place, centrally
+situated in the lower part of the town, and may recall the circumstance
+of poor David resting near at hand, on his arrival—a juvenile stranger in
+a strange land—after a morning’s fruitless inquiry as to the whereabouts
+of his aunt.  We read (in chapter 13) as follows:—
+
+    “I inquired about my aunt among the boatmen first, and received
+    various answers.  One said she lived in the South Foreland light, and
+    had singed her whiskers by doing so; another, that she was made fast
+    to the great buoy outside the harbour, and could be only visited at
+    half-tide; a third, that she was locked up in Maidstone Jail for
+    child stealing; a fourth, that she was seen to mount a broom in the
+    last high wind and make direct for Calais.  The fly-drivers among
+    whom I inquired were equally jocose and equally disrespectful; and
+    the shopkeepers, not liking my appearance, generally replied without
+    hearing what I had to say, that they had got nothing for me.  I felt
+    more miserable and destitute than I had done at any period of my
+    running away.  My money was all gone, I had nothing left to dispose
+    of; I was hungry, thirsty, and worn out, and seemed as distant from
+    my end as if I had remained in London.”
+
+At the junction of CHURCH STREET and CASTLE STREET, both leading to and
+from the Market Place—at the northeast angle—there may be noted the
+Street Corner at which David sat down, considering the position of
+affairs, and where he received the first practical intimation for the
+proper direction of his search:—
+
+    “The morning had worn away in these inquiries, and I was sitting on
+    the step of an empty shop at a street corner, near the Market-place,
+    deliberating upon wandering towards those other places which had been
+    mentioned, when a fly-driver, coming by with his carriage, dropped a
+    horsecloth.  Something good-natured in the man’s face, as I handed it
+    up, encouraged me to ask him if he could tell me where Miss Trotwood
+    lived. . . .  ‘I tell you what,’ said he.  ‘If you go up there,’
+    pointing with his whip towards the heights, ‘and keep right on till
+    you come to some houses facing the sea, I think you’ll hear of her.’”
+
+Leaving the Market Place from its north-west corner, and keeping somewhat
+to the left, the Rambler may ascend by CANNON and BIGGIN STREETS, as
+indicated by the coachman’s whip, to the heights of Priory Hill, on which
+elevation, in the neighbourhood of ST. MARTIN’S PRIORY and the PRIORY
+FARM, there may be found several semi-detached residences pleasantly
+overlooking the “silver streak” and the intervening town below.  Here, in
+an eligible position, there may be seen Stanley Mount, a villa residence
+of two storeys, with bow windows and contiguous lawn.  This house now
+replaces an older one, which aforetime was the cottage at which the
+worthy Miss Trotwood lived; the miniature lawn in front being the “patch
+of green” over which that amiable lady asserted private right of way;
+persistently maintaining it against all comers in general, and the Dover
+donkey boys in particular—
+
+    “The one great outrage of her life, demanding to be constantly
+    avenged, was the passage of a donkey over that immaculate spot.  In
+    whatever occupation she was engaged, however interesting to her the
+    conversation in which she was taking part, a donkey turned the
+    current of her ideas in a moment, and she was upon him straight.
+    Jugs of water and watering-pots were kept in secret places, ready to
+    be discharged on the offending boys, sticks were laid in ambush
+    behind the door, sallies were made at all hours, and incessant war
+    prevailed.”
+
+Midway between Railway Stations and Quay, there may be noted The King’s
+Head Hotel, as being the old Coaching House at which the London Mail
+terminated its journey, and referred to in “The Tale of Two Cities” by
+the name of “The Royal George.”  Here may be recalled the interview
+related in chapter 4, which took place at this hotel between _Mr. Lorry_
+and _Miss Manette_, and at which the reader is first introduced to the
+eccentric _Miss Pross_—“dressed in some extraordinary tight-fitting
+fashion”; wearing on “her head a most wonderful bonnet, like a Grenadier
+measure (and a good measure too) or a great Stilton cheese.”
+
+Returning to London by South-Eastern Rail, the Rambler will pass, about
+half-way on the road, the picturesque village of Staplehurst.  Near this
+station it may be remembered that, on June 9th, 1865, a sad disaster
+occurred to the train in which Mr. Dickens was a traveller.  The
+_Postscript_ to “Our Mutual Friend” contains the following reference:—
+
+    “Mr. and Mrs. Boffin (in their manuscript dress) were on the
+    South-Eastern Railway with me, in a terribly destructive accident.
+    When I had done what I could to help others, I climbed back into my
+    carriage—nearly turned over a viaduct, and caught aslant upon the
+    turn—to extricate the worthy couple.  They were very much soiled, but
+    otherwise unhurt. . . .  I remember with devout thankfulness that I
+    can never be much nearer parting company with my readers for ever
+    than I was then, until there shall be written against my life the two
+    words with which I have this day closed this book—The End.”
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE VIII
+_Excursion to Henley-on-Thames_
+
+
+Route by Great Western Railway _viâ_ Maidenhead and Twyford to Henley—The
+Red Lion Inn, place of accommodation for Mr. Eugene Wrayburn—Marriage of
+Mr. Wrayburn and Lizzie Hexam—The Anchor Inn, the “little inn” at which
+Bella Wilfer first visited Lizzie Hexam—Henley Railway Station—The Tow
+Path, scene of the interview between Lizzie and Eugene—Marsh Mill, at
+which Lizzie was employed—Neighbourhood where Betty Higden died—Shiplake
+Churchyard, where Betty was buried—“A cry for help”—West bank of Thames,
+Henley Bridge and Poplar Point, the neighbourhood where occurred Bradley
+Headstone’s attack on Eugene Wrayburn—Lizzie’s walk by Marsh Lock to the
+Eastern Tow Path beyond Henley Bridge—Her rescue of Eugene—Henley _viâ_
+Aston and Medmenham to Hurley Lock, “Plashwater Weir Mill” Lock, Rogue
+Riderhood, Deputy Lockkeeper—Final scene of the Tragedy—Churchyard of
+Stoke Pogis—Mr. Micawber’s Quotation—The Homeward Journey—John Harmon’s
+Reflections.
+
+A very delightful country excursion may be made for visiting the
+neighbourhood of Henley-on-Thames, of especial interest to the readers of
+“Our Mutual Friend.”
+
+It may be remembered that _Lizzie Hexam_, desirous of avoiding the
+attentions of her (then) unworthy lover, _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_, left
+London secretly, with the assistance of Riah—representative of the
+honourable firm of Messrs. Pubsey and Co.; that, by his recommendation,
+she obtained a situation at a PAPER MILL (then under Jewish management),
+at some distance from the Metropolis, and remained for a time undisturbed
+in her country employment; that, thereafter, _Eugene Wrayburn_ obtained
+her address by bribing the drunken father of “_Jenny Wren_,” the dolls’
+dressmaker, and so followed Lizzie to her retreat, being in his turn
+watched and followed by the passionate and jealous schoolmaster, _Bradley
+Headstone_, who attempted his life on the river bank; that, near at hand,
+was the ANGLER’S INN, to which Eugene—nearly dead—was carried by the
+heroic and devoted Lizzie, who saved him from a watery grave, and where
+“effect was given to the dolls’ dressmaker’s discovery,” one night, some
+weeks later, by their romantic marriage, while it was yet doubtful
+whether the bridegroom would survive; that the death of _Betty Higden_
+occurred “ON THE BORDERS OF OXFORDSHIRE,” near the mill at which _Lizzie
+Hexam_ was engaged, Lizzie herself attending the last moments of the
+dying woman, and accepting her last request; that in accordance with such
+request poor Betty was decently interred in a contiguous churchyard, the
+charges being defrayed by her own hard earnings, specially saved for the
+purpose; and that, on this occasion, the first meeting of Lizzie and
+_Miss Bella Wilfer_ took place, when a very interesting and touching
+interview ensued, which greatly assisted Bella in confirmation of a brave
+and righteous decision _in re_ money _versus_ love.  Also that, at no
+great distance from this locality, was situated “PLASHWATER WEIR MILL
+LOCK,” where _Rogue Riderhood_ did duty as deputy lock-keeper, and where,
+at the last, he and _Bradley Headstone_ were drowned.
+
+These localities are in the neighbourhood of HENLEY, and may be readily
+verified by the intelligent Rambler, adopting the excursion by land and
+water, as subjoined.
+
+Leaving PADDINGTON TERMINUS of the Great Western Railway, we pass
+WESTBOURNE PARK JUNCTION, and the well-arranged grounds of _Kensal Green
+Cemetery_ (in which repose the mortal remains of Leigh Hunt, Sidney
+Smith, John Leech, and Thackeray) on the right, travelling westward by
+the suburban stations of _Acton_, _Ealing_, and _Castle Hill_, and cross
+the Wharncliffe Viaduct to HANWELL.
+
+To the left may be seen the handsome building of the MIDDLESEX LUNATIC
+ASYLUM. We next arrive at SOUTHALL, and afterwards cross the Grand
+Junction Canal to HAYES and WEST DRAYTON.  Our train now passes from
+Middlesex to Buckinghamshire, and steams onwards in the neighbourhood of
+_Langley Park_—seen on the right.  The tower of Langley Church may be
+observed on the left, rising from the trees, as we speed forward to
+SLOUGH, where we obtain a distant glimpse of the Royal Castle of Windsor,
+two miles southward.
+
+Resuming the journey we come, in four miles’ run, to the pleasant village
+of TAPLOW, on the borders of the Thames (here dividing the counties of
+Buckinghamshire and Berkshire), and within easy distance of _Burnham
+Beeches_, a favourite picnic resort.  The train now crosses the river,
+next arriving at MAIDENHEAD, a market town on the Thames.  On the right,
+observation may be taken of Maidenhead Bridge, a noble erection of
+thirteen arches.  Thereafter we soon arrive at TWYFORD JUNCTION, where we
+change (unless seated in a special through carriage) for Henley, situated
+four miles northward, and served by a branch line.  The town itself is
+very pleasantly situated on the Thames, with an old church and handsome
+bridge, but is of special interest to Dickensian students as containing
+the INN at which _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_ found accommodation on the
+occasion of his journey in pursuit of Lizzie Hexam.  See “Our Mutual
+Friend,” book 3, chapter 1, in which Bradley Headstone, returning to
+Plashwater Weir, is described as reporting the circumstance to the deputy
+lock-keeper—
+
+    “‘Lock ho!  Lock.’  It was a light night, and a barge coming down
+    summoned him (Riderhood) out of a long doze.  In due course he had
+    let the barge through and was alone again, looking to the closing of
+    his gates, when Bradley Headstone appeared before him, standing on
+    the brink of the Lock.  ‘Halloa,’ said Riderhood.  ‘Back a’ready,
+    T’otherest?’  ‘He has put up for the night at an Angler’s Inn,’ was
+    the fatigued and hoarse reply.  ‘He goes on, up the river, at six in
+    the morning.  I have come back for a couple of hours’ rest.’”
+
+The Red Lion Inn thus referred to is situated north of Henley Bridge, on
+the west bank of the river, and is a favourite resort for disciples of
+Izaak Walton and boating men in general.  Here it was that Eugene
+Wrayburn—after the murderous attack by the schoolmaster—was brought
+almost lifeless by Lizzie, when rescued by her from the river, as
+narrated in chapter 6—
+
+    “She ran the boat ashore, went into the water, released him from the
+    line, and by main strength lifted him in her arms and laid him in the
+    bottom of the boat.  He had fearful wounds upon him, and she bound
+    them up with her dress torn into strips.  Else, supposing him to be
+    still alive, she foresaw that he must bleed to death before he could
+    be landed at his inn, which was the nearest place for succour. . . .
+    She rowed hard—rowed desperately, but never wildly—and seldom removed
+    her eyes from him in the bottom of the boat.  She had so laid him
+    there as that she might see his disfigured face; it was so much
+    disfigured that his mother might have covered it, but it was above
+    and beyond disfigurement in her eyes.  The boat touched the edge of
+    inn lawn, sloping gently to the water.  There were lights in the
+    windows, but there chanced to be no one out of doors.  She made the
+    boat fast, and again by main strength took him up, and never laid him
+    down until she laid him down in the house.”
+
+The landing-place and patch of inn lawn, above indicated, may now be
+verified as belonging to the “RED LION” at Henley aforesaid.  The lawn is
+a favourite standpoint for spectators interested in the HENLEY ROYAL
+REGATTA, which takes place every year usually about the beginning of
+July.
+
+The marriage of Eugene and Lizzie took place at this same inn some weeks
+later, while it was yet uncertain that Eugene would recover; the _Rev.
+Frank Milvey_ officiating at the bedside, _Bella_ and her husband, _Mr.
+Lightwood_, _Mrs. Milvey_, and _Jenny Wren_ being duly in attendance—
+
+    “They all stood round the bed, and Mr. Milvey, opening his book,
+    began the service, so rarely associated with the shadow of death; so
+    inseparable in the mind from a flush of life and gaiety and health
+    and hope and joy.  Bella thought how different from her own sunny
+    little wedding, and wept.  Mrs. Milvey overflowed with pity, and wept
+    too.  The dolls’ dressmaker, with her hands before her face, wept in
+    her golden bower.  Reading in a low, clear voice, and bending over
+    Eugene, who kept his eyes upon him, Mr. Milvey did his office with
+    suitable simplicity.  As the bridegroom could not move his hand, they
+    touched his fingers with the ring, and so put it on the bride.  When
+    the two plighted their troth, she laid her hand on his, and kept it
+    there.  When the ceremony was done, and all the rest departed from
+    the room, she drew her arm under his head, and laid her own head down
+    on the pillow by his side.  ‘Undraw the curtains, my dear girl,’ said
+    Eugene, after a while, ‘and let us see our wedding-day.’  The sun was
+    rising, and his first rays struck into the room, as she came back and
+    put her lips to his.  ‘I bless the day!’ said Eugene.  ‘I bless the
+    day!’ said Lizzie.”
+
+[The clergyman and friends who assisted on this interesting occasion as
+above, left London from Waterloo Station.  We may remember that Mrs.
+Rokesmith, escorted by Mr. Lightwood, came into town by rail from
+Greenwich.  Thus they would change trains at WATERLOO JUNCTION, and adopt
+the _South-Western Route_ as being the more convenient, travelling to
+Reading, and driving thence to Henley.  It was at this terminus that
+Bradley Headstone first heard (from Mr. Milvey) of the intended wedding,
+and was so seriously upset by the news, that an attack of epilepsy ensued
+in consequence.  We thus read in chapter 11, book 4, with reference to
+Bella and her escort:—
+
+    “From Greenwich they started directly for London, and in London they
+    waited at a railway station until such time as the Rev. Frank Milvey,
+    and Margaretta, his wife, with whom Mortimer Lightwood had been
+    already in conference, should come and join them. . . .  Then the
+    train rattled among the house-tops, and among the ragged sides of
+    houses, torn down to make way for it, over the swarming streets, and
+    under the fruitful earth, until it shot across the river. . . .  A
+    carriage ride succeeded near the solemn river. . . .  They drew near
+    the chamber where Eugene lay.”
+
+This is certainly descriptive of the SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, and is _not_
+applicable to the Great Western Route.]
+
+For full particulars the reader is referred to chapter 11, book 4.  On
+the occasion of Bella Wilfer’s FIRST VISIT to Henley, and the
+introduction of the two girls to each other, as narrated in chapter 9,
+book 3 (in association with the burial of old Betty Higden), mention is
+made of “_the little inn_,” at which Bella’s friends were then
+accommodated.  This was _not_ the “Red Lion,” but, in all probability,
+was The Anchor Inn, a small, but very comfortable hostelry in _Friday
+Street_, near the river.  Visitors desiring to combine economy with
+homeliness, are recommended to follow Miss Wilfer’s lead in this regard,
+and commit themselves to the hospitable care of the present landlord.
+
+The Railway Station at Henley is referred to in the last-named chapter as
+being near at hand, when “the Rev. Frank and Mrs. Frank, and Sloppy, and
+Bella and the Secretary set out to walk to it;” the two last dropping
+behind, for a little confidential conversation on the road.  We read that
+
+    “The railway, at this point knowingly shutting a green eye and
+    opening a red one, they had to run for it.  As Bella could not run
+    easily so wrapped up, the Secretary had to help her.  When she took
+    her opposite place in the carriage corner, the brightness in her face
+    was so charming to behold, that on her exclaiming, ‘What beautiful
+    stars and what a glorious night!’ the Secretary said, ‘Yes,’ but
+    seemed to prefer to see the night and the stars in the light of her
+    lovely little countenance, to looking out of window.”
+
+A short walk of five minutes from the station, southward by the riverside
+(west bank), will bring the Rambler to The Tow Path, the scene of that
+memorable interview between Lizzie and Eugene, recorded in chapter 6,
+book 4, as taking place previous to the catastrophe by which Wrayburn
+nearly lost his life.  The path leads to Marsh Mill, about half a mile
+from Henley; a large and important paper mill, now in the occupation of
+Mr. Wells, situated near the weir, with its long wooden bridge leading to
+the lock.  This was the mill at which Lizzie Hexam, secretly leaving
+London, found refuge and occupation, on the recommendation of her old
+friend Mr. Riah, her worthy employers being a firm of Hebrew nationality.
+We first read of this mill in connection with the closing scenes of
+_Betty Higden’s_ history, as narrated in chapter 8, book 3, and headed
+“The end of a long journey”—
+
+    “There now arose in the darkness a great building full of lighted
+    windows.  Smoke was issuing from a high chimney in the rear of it,
+    and there was the sound of a water-wheel at the side.  Between her
+    and the building lay a piece of water, in which the lighted windows
+    were reflected, and on its nearest margin was a plantation of trees.
+    ‘I humbly thank the Power and the Glory,’ said Betty Higden, holding
+    up her withered hands, ‘that I have come to my journey’s end!’”
+
+The Death of Betty here occurred; as, sinking on the ground, and
+supporting herself against a tree “whence she could see, beyond some
+intervening trees and branches, the lighted windows,” her strength gave
+way—
+
+    “‘I am safe here,’ was her last benumbed thought.  ‘When I am found
+    dead at the foot of the Cross, it will be by some of my own sort;
+    some of the working people who work among the lights yonder.  I
+    cannot see the lighted windows now, but they are there.  I am
+    thankful for all!’”
+
+We have the satisfaction of reading that the poor woman’s hopes were
+realised, for _Lizzie Hexam_ returning from the mill, found her lying
+among the trees as described, and tended her at the last, with helpful
+and loving hands—
+
+    “A look of thankfulness and triumph lights the worn old face.  The
+    eyes, which have been darkly fixed upon the sky, turn with meaning in
+    them towards the compassionate face from which the tears are
+    dropping, and a smile is on the aged lips as they ask, ‘What is your
+    name, my dear?’  ‘My name is Lizzie Hexam.’  ‘I must be sore
+    disfigured.  Are you afraid to kiss me?’  The answer is, the ready
+    pressure of her lips upon the cold but smiling mouth.  ‘Bless ye!
+    Now lift me, my love.’  Lizzie Hexam very softly raised the
+    weather-stained grey head, and lifted her as high as Heaven.”
+
+The Burial, as detailed in the following chapter, must have taken place
+in the little churchyard of the contiguous village of SHIPLAKE (about
+three-quarters of a mile distant), the service being conducted by the
+Rev. Frank Milvey, and attended by the Secretary and poor _Sloppy_ as
+mourners.
+
+“A cry for help.”  It may be interesting to indicate the local sequence
+of events on that memorable Saturday evening, when Bradley Headstone,
+impelled by wild resentment and furious jealousy, did his best to murder
+his more favoured rival, as described in chapter 6, book 4, under the
+above heading.  It will be remembered that, on the evening in question,
+Eugene Wrayburn having forced an appointment with Lizzie Hexam, met her
+on the path by the river, when a very affecting farewell interview
+ensued.  This interview occurring on the towpath—tolerably secluded at
+and after twilight—about halfway between Henley and Marsh (see _Marcus
+Stone’s_ Illustration, “The Parting by the River”), Eugene strolled
+slowly towards his inn, while Lizzie walked sorrowfully, as a matter of
+course, in the opposite direction.  We read that, passing Bradley
+Headstone (disguised as a bargeman)—
+
+    “Eugene Wrayburn went the opposite way, with his hands behind him,
+    and his purpose in his thoughts.  He passed the sheep, and passed the
+    gate, and came within hearing of the village sounds, and came to the
+    bridge.  The inn where he stayed, like the village and the mill, was
+    not across the river, but on that side of the stream on which he
+    walked . . . feeling out of humour for noise or company, he crossed
+    the bridge, and sauntered on: looking up at the stars as they seemed
+    one by one to be kindled in the sky, and looking down at the river as
+    the same stars seemed to be kindled deep in the water.  A
+    landing-place overshadowed by a willow, and a pleasant boat lying
+    moored there among some stakes, caught his eye as he passed along.”
+
+Thus it will be seen how Eugene, following the _west bank_ of the Thames
+to Henley, and thereafter crossing Henley Bridge, pursued the course of
+his meditations past the landing-place on the opposite side, walking
+onwards by the towpath thence continued, in the direction of POPLAR
+POINT.
+
+The Murderous Attack upon him by Headstone, in the darkening shades of
+nightfall, must have here occurred, not far from the bridge, and opposite
+to the town, Wrayburn being thrown into the river by his assailant, and
+so left for dead.
+
+Lizzie Hexam, endeavouring to regain composure, went towards Marsh, and
+must have crossed by The Lock Gates to the main road beyond, turning in
+the direction of Henley.  She thereafter walked slowly onwards in the
+neighbourhood of the bridge at its eastern side, and thus unconsciously
+came again near to, and following behind, her lover, on the
+
+Eastern Tow Path beyond the bridge, as above mentioned.  Hereabouts,
+hearing “the sound of blows, a faint groan, and a fall into the river,”
+she ran towards the spot from which the sounds had come—not far distant,
+on the riverside path, northward from the bridge.  We are all familiar
+with the story of Lizzie’s heroic rescue of Eugene from the river.
+Finding a boat on the north side of HENLEY BRIDGE—
+
+    “She passed the scene of the struggle—yonder it was—on her left, well
+    over the boat’s stern—she passed on her right the end of the village
+    street (New Street) . . . looking as the boat drove, everywhere,
+    everywhere for the floating face.”
+
+Finding and recovering the body, she rowed “back against the stream,”
+landing at the lawn of the RED LION INN as previously described.
+
+The Rambler may now take a short trip by boat down the river six miles
+from Henley, for visiting THE LOCK where _Rogue Riderhood_ acted for a
+time, as deputy superintendent.
+
+Leaving HENLEY, we may note, on the left, the mansion of _Fawley Court_,
+beyond which, passing REGATTA ISLAND, we arrive at GREENLANDS, in the
+occupation of the Right Hon. W. H. Smith (not unknown in political and
+literary circles).  The house is pleasantly situated at the bend of the
+river.  We next arrive at _Hambledon Lock_, two miles from Henley;
+thereafter reaching ASTON, as we proceed down the stream to MEDMENHAM,
+with its picturesque Abbey, founded in the reign of King John, standing
+on the north bank.  Below Medmenham is Hurley Lock, which is our present
+destination.  It is contiguous to NEW LOCK WEIR, and to the village of
+HURLEY, situated on the right bank of the river.  This is known to
+readers of “Our Mutual Friend” as Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, at whose
+gates _Riderhood_—whilom a “waterside character,” the partner of _Gaffer
+Hexam_—officiated as deputy lock-keeper.  We are introduced to him as not
+very wide-awake in this capacity, in chapter 1, book 4—
+
+    “PLASHWATER WEIR MILL LOCK looked tranquil and pretty on an evening
+    in the summer-time.  A soft air stirred the leaves of the fresh green
+    trees, and passed like a smooth shadow over the river, and like a
+    smoother shadow over the yielding grass.  The voice of the falling
+    water, like the voices of the sea and the wind, was an outer memory
+    to a contemplative listener; but not particularly so to Mr.
+    Riderhood, who sat on one of the blunt wooden levers of his
+    lock-gates, dozing.”
+
+To this locality came Bradley Headstone, who, for sinister reasons of his
+own, cultivated Riderhood’s acquaintance, making The Lock House a
+convenient place of call, as he pursued Eugene Wrayburn in his quest,
+full details of which may be found in chapters 1 and 7, book 6.  Here
+also was enacted the final scene of the tragedy, as narrated in chapter
+15, book 4, when Bradley Headstone drowned himself and Riderhood in the
+Lock—
+
+    “Bradley had caught him round the body.  He seemed to be girdled with
+    an iron ring.  They were on the brink of the Lock, about midway
+    between the two sets of gates. . . .  ‘Let go!’ said Riderhood.
+    ‘Stop!  What are you trying at?  You can’t drown me.  Ain’t I told
+    you that the man as has come through drowning can never be drowned?
+    I can’t be drowned.’  ‘I can be!’ returned Bradley, in a desperate,
+    clenched voice.  ‘I am resolved to be.  I’ll hold you living, and
+    I’ll hold you dead.  Come down!’  Riderhood went over into the smooth
+    pit, backward, and Bradley Headstone upon him.  When the two were
+    found, lying under the ooze and scum behind one of the rotting gates,
+    Riderhood’s hold had relaxed, probably in falling, and his eyes were
+    staring upward.  But he was girdled still with Bradley’s iron ring,
+    and the rivets of the iron ring held tight.”
+
+By road, HURLEY LOCK is but four miles distant from Henley; a pedestrian,
+therefore, could make an easy short cut, as against a rower up the
+stream; hence the assurance given by the deputy lock-keeper to his
+impatient visitor (see book 4, chapter 1):—
+
+    “‘Ha, ha!  Don’t be afeerd, T’otherest,’ said Riderhood.  ‘The
+    T’other’s got to make way agin the stream, and he takes it easy.  You
+    can soon come up with him.  But wot’s the good of saying that to you!
+    You know how fur you could have outwalked him betwixt anywheres about
+    where he lost the tide—say Richmond—and this, if you had had a mind
+    to it.’”
+
+Travelling homeward on the return to London, it may be desirable to break
+the journey at SLOUGH—eighteen miles from Paddington—whence may be
+conveniently visited the rustic village and cemetery of Stoke Pogis,
+about a mile and a half northward from the station.  The latter contains
+the tomb of the poet Gray, and is the scene of his famous “Elegy in a
+Country Churchyard.”  It may be remembered that from this well-known poem
+Mr. Micawber’s Quotation was taken, as an appropriate conclusion to one
+of his many friendly but grandiloquent epistles, confirming an important
+appointment.  In “David Copperfield,” at the end of chapter 49, we read
+of Micawber’s expressed determination to unmask his “foxey” employer, and
+to crush “to undiscoverable atoms that transcendent and immortal
+hypocrite and perjurer, Heep”; and we may recall his “most secret and
+confidential letter,” soon afterwards received by David, as containing
+the following reference:—
+
+    “The duty done, and act of reparation performed, which can alone
+    enable me to contemplate my fellow mortal, I shall be known no more.
+    I shall simply require to be deposited in that place of universal
+    resort, where
+
+       ‘Each in his narrow cell for ever laid,
+       The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.’
+
+                                               With the plain Inscription,
+                                                        WILKINS MICAWBER.”
+
+So, as the evening shades prevail, “near and nearer drawn” through “the
+glimmering landscape,” we again approach the lights of London Town, with
+(it may be hoped) pleasant reminiscences of the foregoing excursions.
+Should the Rambler, like Mr. John Harmon on a similar occasion, be
+accompanied by a friend, who perchance may be “nearer and dearer than all
+other,” he may appropriately endorse John Harmon’s reflections as he made
+the same journey under blissful circumstances (see “Our Mutual Friend,”
+book 3, end of chapter 9)—
+
+    “O, boofer lady, fascinating boofer lady!  If I were but legally
+    executor of Johnny’s will.  If I had but the right to pay your legacy
+    and take your receipt!  Something to this purpose surely mingled with
+    the blast of the train as it cleared the stations, all knowingly
+    shutting up their green eyes and opening their red ones when they
+    prepared to let the boofer lady pass.”
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE IX
+_By Great Eastern Route from London to Yarmouth_
+
+
+Liverpool Street Station—Epping Forest—Buckhurst Hill—Chigwell
+Village—Chigwell Churchyard; Resting-Place of Barnaby Rudge and his
+Mother—“Grip” the Raven—The “King’s Head Inn”—“The Maypole”—Mr.
+Cattermole’s Frontispiece—The Bar—The Landlord, John Willett—Dolly
+Varden—The Visit of the Varden Family—The Warren; Residence of Mr.
+Haredale and his Niece—By Main Line to Ipswich—The Great White Horse
+Hotel in Tavern Street—The Apartment of the Middle-Aged Lady—Mr.
+Pickwick’s Misadventure—St. Clement’s Church—Job Trotter—The Green Gate,
+Residence of G. Nupkins, Esq.—Mary the Pretty Housemaid—Sam Weller’s
+First Love—Ipswich to Great Yarmouth—Mr. Peggotty’s Boat-house—Home of
+Little Emily—The Two London Coaches—The “Angel Hotel”—David’s Dinner in
+the Coffee-Room—The Friendly Waiter—The “Star Hotel”—Headquarters of
+Copperfield and Steerforth—Miss Mowcher’s First Introduction—Unlocalised
+Sites—Blundeston—Blunderstone Rookery—Early Childhood of
+Copperfield—Somerleyton Park.
+
+A pleasant drive from London to Chigwell is described in chapter 19 of
+“Barnaby Rudge,” and may be still taken about twelve miles by road,
+starting from Whitechapel Church _viâ_ Mile-End and Bow, thence crossing
+the River Lea, and proceeding, in the county of Essex, by way of
+_Stratford_, _Leytonstone_, _Snaresbrook_, and _Wilcox Green_.  But time
+will be saved by adopting a convenient train, leaving Liverpool Street
+Station (Great Eastern Railway) for _Buckhurst Hill_—on the Ongar Branch
+Line—in the neighbourhood of Epping Forest, a district formerly preserved
+by the old monarchs of Merrie England for the enjoyment of field sports
+and the pleasures of the chase.
+
+From this point a country walk (under two miles), turning eastward, and
+to the left after crossing the long intervening bridge, will lead in due
+course to the main road at Chigwell.  Coming into the village we pass, at
+the corner on the right, Chigwell Church, surrounded by its quiet
+churchyard.  This locality will be remembered as having afforded a
+resting-place to Barnaby and his mother after their visit to Mr. Haredale
+at _The Warren_ (chapter 25).  “In the churchyard they sat down to take
+their frugal dinner”—Grip, the raven, being one of the party—“walking up
+and down when he had dined with an air of elderly complacency, which was
+strongly suggestive of his having his hands under his coat tails, and
+appearing to read the tombstones with a very critical taste.”  On the
+other side of the main road, a very little way onward (left), stands the
+old King’s Head Inn, the original “local habitation,” if not “the name,”
+of the ancient hostelry so intimately associated with the central and
+domestic interests of the aforesaid historical novel, and known to us
+therein as The Maypole, “an old building with more gable ends than a lazy
+man would care to count on a sunny day; its windows, old diamond pane
+lattices; its floors sunken and uneven; its ceilings blackened by the
+hand of time, and heavy with massive beams; with its overhanging storeys,
+drowsy little panes of glass, and front bulging out and projecting over
+the pathway.”
+
+                  [Picture: The “King’s Head,” Chigwell]
+
+This description is appropriate to the house as it stands at present, a
+fine old specimen of the timbered architecture of bygone centuries; but
+it may be remarked that THE ILLUSTRATION drawn by Cattermole, which forms
+the frontispiece in the recent editions of “Barnaby Rudge,” is altogether
+beside the mark; for the designer has furnished therein, an elaborate and
+ornate picture of the old inn which does not correspond with fact, but
+rather remains in evidence of the beauty and exuberance of his artistic
+imagination.  Here, then, we may recall the visit of Mr. and Mrs. Varden,
+accompanied by their daughter, the charming Dolly, “the very pink and
+pattern of good looks, in a smart little cherry-coloured mantle, with a
+hood of the same drawn over her head, and, upon the top of that hood, a
+little straw hat, trimmed with cherry-coloured ribbons, and worn the
+merest trifle on one side—just enough, in short, to make it the wickedest
+and most provoking head-dress that ever malicious milliner devised.”
+
+In the same connection The “Bar” of the old “Maypole,” the preparation
+for dinner, and the kitchen are thus described:—
+
+    “All bars are snug places, but the Maypole’s was the very snuggest,
+    cosiest, and completest bar that ever the wit of man devised.  Such
+    amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes; such gleaming tankards
+    dangling from pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would
+    hold them to their lips; such sturdy little Dutch kegs ranged in rows
+    on shelves; so many lemons hanging in separate nets, and forming the
+    fragrant grove already mentioned in this chronicle, suggestive, with
+    goodly loaves of snowy sugar stowed away hard by, of punch, idealised
+    beyond all mortal knowledge; such closets, such presses, such drawers
+    full of pipes, such places for putting things away in hollow window
+    seats, all crammed to the throat with eatables, drinkables, or
+    savoury condiments; lastly, and to crown all, as typical of the
+    immense resources of the establishment, and its defiances to all
+    visitors to cut and come again, such a stupendous cheese!
+
+    “It is a poor heart that never rejoices—it must have been the
+    poorest, weakest, and most watery heart that ever beat which would
+    not have warmed towards the Maypole bar.  Mrs. Varden’s did directly.
+    She could no more have reproached John Willet among those household
+    gods, the kegs and bottles, lemons, pipes, and cheese, than she could
+    have stabbed him with his own bright carving-knife.  The order for
+    dinner too—it might have soothed a savage.  ‘A bit of fish,’ said
+    John to the cook, ‘and some lamb chops (breaded, with plenty of
+    ketchup), and a good salad, and a roast spring chicken, with a dish
+    of sausages and mashed potatoes, or something of that sort.’
+    Something of that sort!  The resources of these inns!  To talk
+    carelessly about dishes which in themselves were a first-rate holiday
+    kind of dinner, suitable to one’s wedding-day, as something of that
+    sort, meaning, if you can’t get a spring chicken, any other trifle in
+    the way of poultry will do—such as a peacock, perhaps!  The kitchen,
+    too, with its great broad cavernous chimney; the kitchen, where
+    nothing in the way of cookery seemed impossible; where you could
+    believe in anything to eat they chose to tell you of.  Mrs. Varden
+    returned from the contemplation of these wonders to the bar again,
+    with a head quite dizzy and bewildered.  Her housekeeping capacity
+    was not large enough to comprehend them.  She was obliged to go to
+    sleep.  Waking was pain, in the midst of such immensity.”
+
+The Warren, residence of Mr. Haredale and his niece, an old red-brick
+house, standing in its own grounds, was situated about a mile eastward
+from the Maypole, and was thence accessible by a path across the fields,
+from the garden exit of the inn, to its position on the border of
+Hainault Forest.  (See final paragraph of chapter 19, “Barnaby Rudge.”)
+From many suggestions in the book, it occupied, in all probability, the
+site of _Forest House_, not a great distance from Chigwell Row; but of
+this no certainty exists.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+CHIGWELL TO IPSWICH.  It will be best to return from _Buckhurst Hill_ by
+rail to Stratford or Liverpool Street, in order to travel by fast main
+line train, to the good old town of Ipswich, our next destination.  The
+journey—_viâ_ Chelmsford and Colchester—will occupy about two hours,
+during which we may recall the memorable occasion of Mr. Pickwick’s
+excursion per coach from the “Bull Inn,” Whitechapel, to this ancient
+capital of Suffolk, attended by the faithful Sam, Mr. Weller, senior,
+driving, and beguiling the tediousness of the way with conversation of
+considerable interest—“possessing the inestimable charm of blending
+amusement with instruction.”  Full details will be found on reference to
+the “Pickwick Papers,” chapter 22, together with the account of Mr. P.’s
+introduction to his fellow-traveller, Mr. Peter Magnus, “a red-haired
+man, with an inquisitive nose and blue spectacles.”  On arrival at the
+station at Ipswich, the wayfarer, crossing by bridge over the _Gipping_
+river, may proceed straight onwards through _Princes Street_ (five
+minutes) to _Tavern Street_.  Turning to the right, along this
+thoroughfare, he will soon see the Great White Horse Hotel, on the left
+side of Tavern Street.  Tramcars from the station pass the hotel; also
+omnibus meets all trains.  Telegraphic address—Pickwick, Ipswich.  In the
+chapter before referred to is contained the following description:—
+
+    “In the main street of Ipswich, on the left-hand side of the way, a
+    short distance after you have passed through the open space fronting
+    the Town Hall, stands an inn, known far and wide by the appellation
+    of the Great White Horse, rendered the more conspicuous by a stone
+    statue of some rapacious animal with flowing mane and tail,
+    distinctly resembling an insane cart-horse, which is elevated above
+    the principal door.  The Great White Horse is famous in the
+    neighbourhood in the same degree as a prize ox, or county
+    paper-chronicled turnip, or unwieldy pig—for its enormous size.
+    Never were such labyrinths of uncarpeted passages, such clusters of
+    mouldy, ill-lighted rooms, such huge numbers of small dens for eating
+    or sleeping in beneath one roof, as are collected together within the
+    four walls of the Great White Horse at Ipswich.”
+
+               [Picture: The “Great White Horse,” Ipswich]
+
+The Dickensian Rambler will well remember this hotel as the scene of Mr.
+Pickwick’s “romantic adventure with a middle-aged lady in yellow
+curl-papers,” related _in extenso_ in the same chapter as above.
+Information as to the exact bedroom allotted to Mr. Pickwick on the
+occasion of his visit to this place is, unfortunately, not afforded by
+local tradition; but the apartment occupied by “Miss Witherfield,” whose
+privacy Mr. P. inadvertently, but so unhappily, invaded, is indicated to
+visitors on the second floor—No. 36, according to recent rearrangement of
+enumeration, formerly known as No. 6.
+
+Poor Mr. Pickwick, on his escape from his awkward predicament, was unable
+to find his own room, but was at last rescued from his dilemma by his
+faithful servitor—
+
+    “After groping his way a few paces down the passage, and, to his
+    infinite alarm, stumbling over several pairs of boots in so doing,
+    Mr. Pickwick crouched into a little recess in the wall, to wait for
+    morning as philosophically as he might.
+
+    “He was not destined, however, to undergo this additional trial of
+    patience; for he had not been long ensconced in his present
+    concealment when, to his unspeakable horror, a man, bearing a light,
+    appeared at the end of the passage.  His horror was suddenly
+    converted into joy, however, when he recognised the form of his
+    faithful attendant.  It was indeed Mr. Samuel Weller, who after
+    sitting up thus late, in conversation with the Boots, who was sitting
+    up for the mail, was now about to retire to rest.
+
+    “‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, suddenly appearing before him, ‘where’s my
+    bedroom?’
+
+    “Mr. Weller stared at his master with the most emphatic surprise; and
+    it was not until the question had been repeated three several times,
+    that he turned round, and led the way to the long-sought apartment.
+
+    “‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, as he got into bed.  ‘I have made one of
+    the most extraordinary mistakes to-night that were ever heard of.’
+
+    “‘Wery likely, sir,’ said Mr. Weller drily.
+
+    “‘But of this I am determined, Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, ‘that if I
+    were to stop in this house for six months, I would never trust myself
+    about it alone again.’
+
+    “‘That’s the wery prudentest resolution as you could come to, sir,’
+    replied Mr. Weller.  ‘You rayther want somebody to look arter you,
+    sir, wen your judgment goes out a wisitin’.’”
+
+By way of _Upper Brook Street_, _Tacket Street_, and _Orwell Place_, we
+come to _Fore Street_, _St. Clement’s_ (a thoroughfare in which still
+remain several old houses of the sixteenth century), and soon reach the
+whereabouts of St. Clement’s Church, towards which, on the morning
+following the disasters of the night of their arrival, Mr. Samuel Weller
+bent his steps, and
+
+    “endeavoured to dissipate his melancholy by strolling among its
+    ancient precincts.  He had loitered about for some time, when he
+    found himself in a retired spot—a kind of courtyard of venerable
+    appearance—which he discovered had no other outlet than the turning
+    by which he had entered.  He was about retracing his steps, when he
+    was suddenly transfixed to the spot by a sudden appearance; and the
+    mode and manner of this appearance we now proceed to relate.
+
+    “Mr. Samuel Weller had been staring up at the old brick houses now
+    and then, in his deep abstraction, bestowing a wink upon some
+    healthy-looking servant girl as she drew up a blind, or threw open a
+    bedroom window, when the green gate at the bottom of the yard opened,
+    and a man having emerged therefrom, closed the green gate very
+    carefully after him, and walked briskly towards the very spot where
+    Mr. Weller was standing.”
+
+This personage proved to be none other than Mr. Job Trotter, whose black
+hair and mulberry suit were at once recognised by Sam, though their owner
+did his best to evade detection:—
+
+    “As the green gate was closed behind him, and there was no other
+    outlet but the one in front, however, he was not long in perceiving
+    that he must pass Mr. Samuel Weller to get away.  He therefore
+    resumed his brisk pace, and advanced, staring straight before him.
+    The most extraordinary thing about the man was, that he was
+    contorting his face into the most fearful and astonishing grimaces
+    that ever were beheld.  Nature’s handiwork never was disguised with
+    such extraordinary artificial carving, as the man had overlaid his
+    countenance with in one moment.”
+
+The Green Gate thus alluded to may yet be seen in a passage or court at
+the bottom of _Angel Lane_ (leading to Back Street).  It is the last
+garden gate in the churchyard, a short distance from Church Street.  The
+same courtyard and gate will be remembered as the official entrance to
+the Residence of George Nupkins, Esq., the Worshipful Mayor of Ipswich,
+before whom the Pickwickian party were arraigned, in charge of the
+redoubtable chief constable of the town.  We read in chapter 25 as
+follows:—
+
+    “Mr. Weller’s anger quickly gave way to curiosity when the procession
+    turned down the identical courtyard in which he had met with the
+    runaway Job Trotter; and curiosity was exchanged for a feeling of the
+    most gleeful astonishment, when the all-important Mr. Grummer,
+    commanding the sedan-bearers to halt, advanced with dignified and
+    portentous steps to the very green gate from which Job Trotter had
+    emerged, and gave a mighty pull at the bell-handle which hung at the
+    side thereof.  The ring was answered by a very smart and pretty-faced
+    servant-girl, who, after holding up her hands in astonishment at the
+    rebellious appearance of the prisoners, and the impassioned language
+    of Mr. Pickwick, summoned Mr. Muzzle.  Mr. Muzzle opened one-half of
+    the carriage gate to admit the sedan, the captured ones, and the
+    specials, and immediately slammed it in the faces of the mob. . . .
+
+    “At the foot of a flight of steps, leading to the house door, which
+    was guarded on either side by an American aloe in a green tub, the
+    sedan-chair stopped.  Mr. Pickwick and his friends were conducted
+    into the hall, whence, having been previously announced by Muzzle,
+    and ordered in by Mr. Nupkins, they were ushered into the worshipful
+    presence of that public-spirited officer.”
+
+And we all recollect the resulting _exposé_ of the designs of Mr. Alfred
+Jingle (_alias_ Captain Fitzmarshall), and the return by Mr. Weller of
+“Job Trotter’s shuttlecock as heavily as it came.”
+
+It should also be not forgotten that it was at this house Mr. Weller met
+with his lady-elect, Mary, the Pretty Housemaid (afterwards maid to Mrs.
+Winkle), and that here the first passage of first love occurred between
+them.  For the pleasant narration of the episode, reference should be
+made to the conclusion of the foregoing chapter:—
+
+    “Now, there was nobody in the kitchen but the pretty housemaid; and
+    as Sam’s hat was mislaid, he had to look for it, and the pretty
+    housemaid lighted him.  They had to look all over the place for the
+    hat.  The pretty housemaid, in her anxiety to find it, went down on
+    her knees, and turned over all the things that were heaped together
+    in a little corner by the door.  It was an awkward corner.  You
+    couldn’t get at it without shutting the door first.
+
+    “‘Here it is,’ said the pretty housemaid.  ‘This is it, ain’t it?’
+
+    “‘Let me look,’ said Sam.
+
+    “The pretty housemaid had stood the candle on the floor; as it gave a
+    very dim light, Sam was obliged to go down on his knees before he
+    could see whether it really was his own hat or not.  It was a
+    remarkably small corner, and so—it was nobody’s fault but the man’s
+    who built the house—Sam and the pretty housemaid were necessarily
+    very close together.
+
+    “‘Yes, this is it,’ said Sam.  ‘Good-bye!’
+
+    “‘Good-bye!’ said the pretty housemaid.
+
+    “‘Good-bye!’ said Sam; and as he said it, he dropped the hat that had
+    cost so much trouble in looking for.
+
+    “‘How awkward you are,’ said the pretty housemaid.  ‘You’ll lose it
+    again, if you don’t take care.’
+
+    “So, just to prevent his losing it again, she put it on for him.
+
+    “Whether it was that the pretty housemaid’s face looked prettier
+    still, when it was raised towards Sam’s, or whether it was the
+    accidental consequence of their being so near to each other, is
+    matter of uncertainty to this day; but Sam kissed her.
+
+    “‘You don’t mean to say that you did that on purpose,’ said the
+    pretty housemaid, blushing.
+
+    “‘No, I didn’t then,’ said Sam; ‘but I will now.’
+
+    “So he kissed her again.
+
+    “‘Sam!’ said Mr. Pickwick, calling over the banisters.
+
+    “‘Coming, sir,’ replied Sam, running upstairs.
+
+    “‘How long you have been!’ said Mr. Pickwick.
+
+    “‘There was something behind the door, sir, which perwented our
+    getting it open, for ever so long, sir,’ replied Sam.”
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Resuming the journey onwards by rail from Ipswich, the route is continued
+_viâ Saxmundham Junction_, _Halesworth_, and _Beccles_, to the South Town
+Station at Great Yarmouth, a well-known and favourite seaside resort, of
+much interest to the Dickensian Rambler, as being intimately associated
+with the personal history and experience of David Copperfield.  Visitors
+are recommended, for reasons hereafter to be seen, to select as their
+place of sojourn either the “_Star Hotel_” on the Hall Quay, or the
+“_Angel_,” near the market-place.  Any thoroughfare leading eastward from
+either of these will conduct to the _Marine Parade_, in full view of the
+German Ocean.
+
+Towards the southern end of this sea frontage of the town, there may be
+localised the spot where once stood the Home of Little Emily, “a black
+barge or some other kind of superannuated boat, high and dry on the
+ground, with an iron funnel sticking out of it for a chimney.  There was
+a delightful door cut in the side; it was roofed in, and there were
+little windows in it.”
+
+The position of this old boat-house, as belonging to Dan’l Peggotty, was
+at the upper extremity of the _South Denes_, a flat and grassy
+expanse—beyond the _Wellington Pier_ and _South Battery_—in the
+neighbourhood of the _Nelson Column_, facing the sea.
+
+In chapter 22 we find a reference to the South Town ferry, crossing the
+Yare, “to a flat between the river and the sea, Mr. Peggotty’s house
+being on that waste place, and not a hundred yards out of the track.”
+
+[There is a small wooden erection, more than a mile and a half distant,
+on the sea-front near _Gorleston Pier_—between two well-built
+houses—assuming the name of _Peggotty’s Hut_; but this is an evident
+absurdity and misnomer.]
+
+Here, then, we may recall the many interests and incidents connected with
+the experiences of the Peggotty family, and the sorrowful history of
+Little Emily, notably the fateful occasion of STEERFORTH’S FIRST VISIT,
+concerning which David records in chapter 21 of his autobiography, to the
+following effect:—
+
+    “Em’ly, indeed, said little all the evening; but she looked, and
+    listened, and her face got animated, and she was charming.
+    Steerforth told a story of a dismal shipwreck (which arose out of his
+    talk with Mr. Peggotty), as if he saw it all before him—and little
+    Em’ly’s eyes were fastened on him all the time, as if she saw it too.
+    He told us a merry adventure of his own, as a relief to that, with as
+    much gaiety as if the narrative were as fresh to him as it was to
+    us—and little Em’ly laughed until the boat rang with the musical
+    sounds, and we all laughed (Steerforth too), in irresistible sympathy
+    with what was so pleasant and lighthearted.  He got Mr. Peggotty to
+    sing, or rather to roar, ‘When the stormy winds do blow, do blow, do
+    blow;’ and he sang a sailor’s song himself, so pathetically and
+    beautifully, that I could have almost fancied that the real wind
+    creeping sorrowfully round the house, and murmuring low through our
+    unbroken silence, was there to listen.”
+
+Thus commenced the sad story of the poor girl’s fascination and
+subsequent flight with Steerforth, never more to return to the old home.
+In this connection we may recall the graphic and powerful description of
+the great Storm at Yarmouth, as contained in chapter 55, when Ham met his
+fate in the gallant attempt to rescue the last survivor of a wrecked and
+perishing crew, Steerforth himself:—
+
+    “They drew him to my very feet—insensible—dead.  He was carried to
+    the nearest house; and, no one preventing me now, I remained near
+    him, busy, while every means of restoration was tried; but he had
+    been beaten to death by the great wave, and his generous heart was
+    stilled for ever.
+
+    “As I sat beside the bed, when hope was abandoned and all was done, a
+    fisherman, who had known me when Emily and I were children, and ever
+    since, whispered my name at the door.
+
+    “Sir,’ said he, with tears starting to his weather-beaten face,
+    which, with his trembling lips, was ashy pale, ‘will you come over
+    yonder?’
+
+    “The old remembrance that had been recalled to me was in his look.  I
+    asked him, terror-stricken, leaning on the arm he held out to support
+    me—
+
+    “‘Has a body come ashore?’
+
+    “He said, ‘Yes.’
+
+    “‘Do I know it?’ I asked then.
+
+    “He answered nothing.
+
+    “But he led me to the shore.  And on that part of it where she and I
+    had looked for shells, two children—on that part of it where some
+    lighter fragments of the old boat, blown down last night, had been
+    scattered by the wind—among the ruins of the home he had wronged—I
+    saw him lying with his head upon his arm, as I had often seen him lie
+    at school.”
+
+In the days of Copperfield, Two Coaches ran between Great Yarmouth and
+London—“The Blue” and “The Royal Mail.”  On the occasion of David’s first
+journey to his school at Blackheath, he travelled by the former of these,
+from The Angel Hotel, in the Market Place.  We may here recall his dinner
+of chops in the coffee-room, at which the “friendly waiter” assisted,
+helping himself to the lion’s share.
+
+In chapter 5 of his History, David relates the attendant circumstances of
+this, his second visit to Yarmouth; and how, starting as above from the
+hotel, his dinner—ordered and paid for in advance—was mainly consumed by
+proxy, ale included.  We read that the waiter, “a twinkling-eyed,
+pimple-faced man, with his hair standing upright all over his head,”
+invited himself to the meal:—
+
+    “He took a chop by the bone in one hand, and a potato in the other,
+    and ate away with a very good appetite, to my extreme satisfaction.
+    He afterwards took another chop, and another potato; and after that
+    another chop and another potato.  When we had done, he brought me a
+    pudding, and having set it before me, seemed to ruminate, and to
+    become absent in his mind for some moments.
+
+    “‘How’s the pie?’ he said, rousing himself.
+
+    “‘It’s a pudding,’ I made answer.
+
+    “‘Pudding!’ he exclaimed.  ‘Why, bless me, so it is!  What!’ looking
+    at it nearer.  ‘You don’t mean to say it’s a batter-pudding?’
+
+    “‘Yes, it is indeed.’
+
+    “‘Why, a batter-pudding,’ he said, taking up a table-spoon, ‘is my
+    favourite pudding.  Ain’t that lucky?  Come on, little ’un, and let’s
+    see who’ll get most.’
+
+    “The waiter certainly got most.  He entreated me more than once to
+    come in and win, but what with his table-spoon to my tea-spoon, his
+    despatch to my despatch, and his appetite to my appetite, I was left
+    far behind at the first mouthful, and had no chance with him.  I
+    never saw any one enjoy a pudding so much, I think; and he laughed,
+    when it was all gone, as if his enjoyment of it lasted still.”
+
+On his return journey from London, we find him coming down by “The Mail,”
+which stopped at The Star Hotel, on the Hall Quay, where the bedchamber,
+“The Dolphin,” was assigned for his accommodation.  He and his friend
+Steerforth, in after visits, frequently adopted this “Royal Mail”
+conveyance, making headquarters at the “Star Hotel.”
+
+The “volatile” _Miss Mowcher_ is first introduced to us at this
+establishment.
+
+In chapter 22 we have the full account of David’s visit to Yarmouth in
+company with Steerforth.  They “stayed for more than a fortnight in that
+part of the country,” during which time Littimer, being in attendance one
+evening at this hotel during dinner, informed them that Miss Mowcher was
+making one of her professional visits to the town, and desired an
+opportunity of waiting on his master.  David says:—
+
+    “I remained, therefore, in a state of considerable expectation until
+    the cloth had been removed some half-an-hour, and we were sitting
+    over our decanter of wine before the fire, when the door opened, and
+    Littimer, with his habitual serenity quite undisturbed, announced:
+
+    “‘Miss Mowcher!’
+
+    “I looked at the doorway and saw nothing.  I was still looking at the
+    doorway, thinking that Miss Mowcher was a long while making her
+    appearance, when, to my infinite astonishment, there came waddling
+    round a sofa which stood between me and it, a pursy dwarf, of about
+    forty or forty-five, with a very large head and face, a pair of
+    roguish grey eyes, and such extremely little arms, that, to enable
+    herself to lay a finger archly against her snub nose as she ogled
+    Steerforth, she was obliged to meet the finger half-way, and lay her
+    nose against it.  Her chin, which was what is called a double-chin,
+    was so fat that it entirely swallowed up the strings of her bonnet,
+    bow and all.  Throat she had none; waist she had none; legs she had
+    none, worth mentioning; for though she was more than full-sized down
+    to where her waist would have been, if she had had any, and though
+    she terminated, as human beings generally do, in a pair of feet, she
+    was so short that she stood at a common-sized chair as at a table,
+    resting a bag she carried on the seat.”
+
+Sites Unlocalised.  At this distance of time it is impossible to indicate
+the locality of “_The Willing Mind_”—patronised by Mr. Peggotty—the
+residence of _Mr. and Mrs. Barkis_, or the establishment of _Messrs Omer
+and Joram_.  The last is described as being “in a narrow street,” and
+should be doubtless looked for in the older part of the town.
+
+Blundeston, the birthplace of Copperfield, may be visited from
+_Somerleyton Station_, on the line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft.  The
+village, with its round-towered church, is situated about four miles
+eastward from the railway.  The house indicated in the novel as
+_Blunderstone Rookery_ stands next the church.  The excursion could
+include, _en route_, a visit to Somerleyton Park, open to the public on
+Wednesdays.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLE X
+_London to Dorking and Portsmouth_
+
+
+Nicholas Nickleby and Smike on their travels—Excursion by Coach, “The
+Perseverance”—Route to Dorking—Residence of Mr. and Mrs. Tony Weller—The
+“Marquis of Granby”—The Rev. Mr. Stiggins and his “pertickler vanity”—The
+downfall of Stiggins—The old Horse-trough—Dorking to Portsmouth—Parentage
+of Dickens—Registration of Charles John Huffham Dickens—Birthplace of
+Dickens—The Theatre-Royal—The Old Theatre—Unlocalised
+Localities—Portsmouth to London—Westminster Abbey—Tomb of Dickens—His
+Funeral as reported by the _Daily News_, June 1870—Poetical Tribute—The
+future Outlook.
+
+In the early days of the present century, Nicholas Nickleby leaving
+London with Smike, bound for Portsmouth, took the high road _viâ_
+Kingston and Godalming (with a view, _en passant_, of the Devil’s
+Punch-bowl); walking steadily onward until arrival, on their second day’s
+march, at a roadside inn—probably in the neighbourhood of _Horndean_.
+Here they met with Mr. Vincent Crummles, of histrionic fame, and ended
+their more immediate perplexities by an engagement with that gentleman.
+There was no railway communication in those times, and coach fare was
+expensive; but now-a-days we have adopted a cheaper and more speedy means
+of transit, and may reach Portsmouth from London quickly, by two lines of
+railroad.
+
+As, in the following excursion, it is proposed to make an intermediate
+visit _en route_ to the residence (once on a time) of Mr. and Mrs. Tony
+Weller, a journey by coach is recommended to Dorking, as affording a
+suitable compliment to Mr. Weller’s memory and profession.  A delightful
+journey may thus be made by “The Perseverance” coach, which starts every
+week-day during the season, from Northumberland Avenue, at 10.45 A.M.,
+and travels four-in-hand, _viâ_ Roehampton, Kingston, Surbiton, Epsom,
+Leatherhead, Mickleham, and Boxhill, and arrives at Dorking, in time for
+luncheon at the “White Horse Hotel,” at which the coach stops.
+
+The interest of this country town centres, for Pickwickian readers, in
+the “_Marquis of Granby_,” once an inn.  It exists no longer as such,
+having been long since converted into a grocer’s establishment.  It will
+be found in the High Street, opposite the Post Office, at the side of
+_Chequers’ Court_, which runs between it and the _London and County
+Bank_.  The old sign-board, the cosy bar, with its store of choice wines
+and pine-apple rum (Mr. Stiggins’s “pertickler vanity”), and the
+horse-trough in which the reverend gentleman was half drowned by the
+irate Weller, senior, are now among the things that are not; but the old
+house still remains _in situ_, altered to the uses of its present
+occupancy.
+
+In chapter 27 of the Pickwick records we read of Sam’s first pilgrimage
+to Dorking, on which occasion he paid his filial respects to his
+mother-in-law, the rather stout lady of comfortable appearance, who
+conducted the business of the house; and made his acquaintance with the
+Rev. Mr. Stiggins of saintly memory.  The description of the
+establishment is given as follows:—
+
+    “The ‘Marquis of Granby’ in Mrs. Weller’s time was quite a model of a
+    roadside public-house of the better class—just large enough to be
+    convenient, and small enough to be snug.  On the opposite side of the
+    road was a large sign-board on a high post, representing the head and
+    shoulders of a gentleman with an apoplectic countenance, in a red
+    coat with deep-blue facings, and a touch of the same blue over his
+    three-cornered hat, for a sky.  Over that again were a pair of flags;
+    beneath the last button of his coat were a couple of cannon; and the
+    whole formed an expressive and undoubted likeness of the Marquis of
+    Granby of glorious memory.
+
+    “The bar window displayed a choice collection of geranium plants, and
+    a well-dusted row of spirit phials.  The open shutters bore a variety
+    of golden inscriptions, eulogistic of good beds and neat wines; and
+    the choice group of countrymen and hostlers lounging about the
+    stable-door and horse-trough, afforded presumptive proof of the
+    excellent quality of the ale and spirits which were sold within.  Sam
+    Weller paused, when he dismounted from the coach, to note all these
+    little indications of a thriving business, with the eye of an
+    experienced traveller; and having done so, stepped in at once, highly
+    satisfied with everything he had observed.”
+
+Mr. Stiggins, the clerical friend and spiritual adviser of the worthy
+hostess, having fully ingratiated himself in her good graces, was in the
+habit of making himself very much at home at “The Marquis”; greatly
+appreciating the creature comforts there obtainable, and the good liquors
+kept in stock.  In point of fact, knowing when he was well off, he lived
+well—if not wisely—on Mrs. Weller’s hospitable bounty, and made
+headquarters at this Dorking inn.  On the occasion of Sam’s first visit
+before referred to—in chapter 27, as above—this estimable character is
+thus introduced to the notice of Pickwickian students:—
+
+    “He was a prim-faced, red-nosed man, with a long, thin countenance,
+    and a semi-rattlesnake sort of eye—rather sharp, but decidedly bad.
+    He wore very short trousers, and black-cotton stockings, which, like
+    the rest of his apparel, were particularly rusty.  His looks were
+    starched, but his white neckerchief was not, and its long limp ends
+    straggled over his closely-buttoned waistcoat in a very uncouth and
+    unpicturesque fashion.”
+
+    “The fire was blazing brightly under the influence of the bellows,
+    and the kettle was singing gaily under the influence of both.  A
+    small tray of tea things was arranged on the table, a plate of hot
+    buttered toast was gently simmering before the fire, and the
+    red-nosed man himself was busily engaged in converting a large slice
+    of bread into the same agreeable edible, through the instrumentality
+    of a long brass toasting-fork.  Beside him stood a glass of reeking
+    hot pine-apple rum and water, with a slice of lemon in it; and every
+    time the red-nosed man stopped to bring the round of toast to his
+    eye, with the view of ascertaining how it got on, he imbibed a drop
+    or two of the hot pine-apple rum and water, and smiled upon the
+    rather stout lady, as she blew the fire.”
+
+The downfall of Stiggins.  The season of his prosperity came to a sad
+ending after the demise of his patroness; and in chapter 52 we read of
+his reverse of fortune, and the final _congé_ given to the reverend
+gentleman by the irate Mr. Weller, senior, who dismissed him from his
+household chaplaincy, in a manner more peremptory than pleasant:—
+
+    “He walked softly into the bar, and presently returning with the
+    tumbler half full of pine-apple rum, advanced to the kettle which was
+    singing gaily on the hob, mixed his grog, stirred it, sipped it, sat
+    down, and taking a long and hearty pull at the rum and water, stopped
+    for breath.
+
+    “The elder Mr. Weller, who still continued to make various strange
+    and uncouth attempts to appear asleep, offered not a single word
+    during these proceedings; but when Stiggins stopped for breath, he
+    darted upon him, and snatching the tumbler from his hand, threw the
+    remainder of the rum and water in his face, and the glass itself into
+    the grate.  Then, seizing the reverend gentleman firmly by the
+    collar, he suddenly fell to kicking him most furiously, accompanying
+    every application of his top-boots to Mr. Stiggins’s person, with
+    sundry violent and incoherent anathemas upon his limbs, eyes, and
+    body.
+
+    “‘Sammy,’ said Mr. Weller, ‘put my hat on tight for me.’
+
+    “Sam dutifully adjusted the hat with the long hatband more firmly on
+    his father’s head, and the old gentleman, resuming his kicking with
+    greater agility than before, tumbled with Mr. Stiggins through the
+    bar, and through the passage, out at the front door, and so into the
+    street; the kicking continuing the whole way, and increasing in
+    vehemence, rather than diminishing, every time the top-boot was
+    lifted.
+
+    “It was a beautiful and exhilarating sight to see the red-nosed man
+    writhing in Mr. Weller’s grasp, and his whole frame quivering with
+    anguish as kick followed kick in rapid succession; it was a still
+    more exciting spectacle to behold Mr. Weller, after a powerful
+    struggle, immersing Mr. Stiggins’s head in a horse-trough full of
+    water, and holding it there until he was half-suffocated.”
+
+The old horse-trough, as depicted by “Phiz” in the original illustrated
+title-page of the book, has long since given place to local alteration
+and improvement; but “hereabouts it stood.”
+
+There are many pleasant and humorous associations connected with this old
+place of country entertainment, as duly set forth in the Pickwick annals;
+but it should be remembered that many years have passed since their
+publication (1837), and that men and manners have greatly changed and
+bettered.  It is satisfactory to reflect that Mr. Stiggins and his
+brethren have altogether become obsolete in English middle-class society,
+and that the protest so embodied sixty years since is no longer
+necessary.  In these happier days, earnestness and ability have, in the
+main, superseded laziness and cant.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+DORKING TO PORTSMOUTH.  The journey being resumed by railway, we travel
+southward and westward through the pleasant fields and pasture lands of
+Sussex, _viâ_ Horsham and Chichester, to the old town of Portsmouth,
+where, in Landport, Portsea, Charles Dickens was born, on Friday, the 7th
+of February 1812.  He was the second son (in a family of eight, six
+surviving infancy) of Mr. John Dickens, a clerk in the Navy Pay Office at
+the Dockyard.  The name of his mother, previous to her marriage, was
+Elizabeth Barrow.  The baptismal record at Portsea registers him as
+CHARLES JOHN HUFFHAM DICKENS, but he very seldom used any other signature
+than the one with which we are all familiar.  On arrival at the
+Portsmouth town station, we leave the railway, turning to the right, and
+proceed onwards, in the main thoroughfare of Commercial Road.  Thus we
+shortly reach, in due course, The Birthplace of Dickens.  The house (No.
+387 Commercial Road, Landport) stands about half a mile northward (to the
+right) from the railway station, with a neat forecourt.  It bears a
+tablet recording date of the event, as above.
+
+                      [Picture: Dickens’ Birthplace]
+
+South of the station (leftward), beyond the Town Hall, will be found, on
+the right, The Theatre Royal; but it should be noted that this is _not_
+the establishment referred to in “Nicholas Nickleby.”
+
+That old theatre, at which Nicholas—adopting the professional _alias_ of
+“Johnson”—made his histrionic _début_ under the managerial auspices of
+Mr. Vincent Crummles, occupied, some eighty years since, the present site
+of The Cambridge Barracks, in the _High Street_, farther onwards.
+
+We read in the same book that the _Crummles_ family resided at the house
+of one Bulph, a pilot; that _Miss Snevellicci_ had lodgings in Lombard
+Street, at the house of a tailor, where also _Mr. and Mrs. Lillyvick_
+found temporary accommodation; and that _Nicholas_ and _Smike_ lived in
+two small rooms, up three pair of stairs, at a tobacconist’s shop, on the
+Common Hard.  But it is not possible to particularise these places;
+indeed, it is altogether doubtful whether they had any special assignment
+in the mind of the author himself.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Leaving Portsmouth, at convenience, by the _Brighton and South Coast
+Railway_, we may take the return journey to London in about three hours,
+arriving at the West End Terminus of the line, _Victoria Station_.  From
+this point we may revisit, _viâ Victoria Street_, about half a mile in
+distance, Westminster Abbey, containing the TOMB OF DICKENS, which will
+be found in the classic shade of the _Poets’ Corner_.  At the time of his
+death the _Times_ “took the lead in suggesting that the only fit
+resting-place for the remains of a man so dear to England was the Abbey,
+in which most illustrious Englishmen are laid;” and accordingly, on the
+14th of June, the funeral took place, with a strict observance of
+privacy.  In Dean Stanley’s “WESTMINSTER ABBEY” the following statement
+is given:—
+
+    “Close under the bust of Thackeray lies Charles Dickens, not, it may
+    be, his equal in humour, but more than his equal in his hold on the
+    popular mind, as was shown in the intense and general enthusiasm
+    shown at his grave.  The funeral, according to Dickens’s urgent and
+    express desire in his will, was strictly private.  It took place at
+    an early hour in the summer morning, the grave having been dug in
+    secret the night before; and the vast solitary space of the Abbey was
+    occupied only by the small band of mourners, and the Abbey clergy,
+    who, without any music except the occasional peal of the organ, read
+    the funeral service.  For days the spot was visited by thousands;
+    many were the flowers strewn upon it by unknown hands; many were the
+    tears shed by the poorer visitors.  He rests beside Sheridan,
+    Garrick, and Henderson.”
+
+The plain stone covering the tomb is inscribed
+
+                               CHARLES DICKENS,
+
+               Born February 7th, 1812.    Died June 9th, 1870.
+
+Report of the Funeral, as published in the _Daily News_, June 15th,
+1870:—“Charles Dickens lies, without one of his injunctions respecting
+his funeral having been violated, surrounded by poets and men of genius.
+Shakespeare’s marble effigy looked yesterday into his open grave; at his
+feet are Dr. Johnson and David Garrick; his head is by Addison and
+Handel; while Oliver Goldsmith, Rowe, Southey, Campbell, Thomson,
+Sheridan, Macaulay, and Thackeray, or their memorials, encircle him; and
+‘Poets’ Corner,’ the most familiar spot in the whole Abbey, has thus
+received an illustrious addition to its peculiar glory. . . .  Dickens’s
+obsequies were as simple as he desired.  The news that a special train
+left Rochester at an early hour yesterday morning, and that it carried
+his remains, was soon telegraphed to London; but every arrangement had
+been completed beforehand, and there was no one in the Abbey; no one to
+follow the three simple mourning coaches and the hearse; no one to
+obtrude upon the mourners.  The waiting-room at Charing Cross Station was
+set apart for the latter for the quarter of an hour they remained there;
+the Abbey doors were closed directly they reached it; and even the
+mourning coaches were not permitted to wait.  A couple of street cabs and
+a single brougham took the funeral party away when the last solemn rites
+were over, so that passers-by were unaware that any ceremony was being
+conducted; and it was not until a good hour after that the south transept
+began to fill.  There were no cloaks, no weepers, no bands, no scarfs, no
+feathers, none of the dismal frippery of the undertaker.  We yesterday
+bade the reader turn to that portion of ‘Great Expectations,’ in which
+the funeral of Joe Gargery’s wife is described; he will there find full
+details of the miserable things omitted.  In the same part of the same
+volume he will find reverent allusion to the time when ‘those noble
+passages are read which remind humanity how it brought nothing into the
+world and can take nothing out, and how it fleeth like a shadow, and
+never continueth long in one stay;’ and will think of the solemn scene in
+Westminster Abbey, with the Dean reading our solemn burial service, the
+organ chiming in, subdued and low, and the vast place empty, save for the
+little group of heart-stricken people by an open grave; a plain oak
+coffin, with a brass plate bearing the inscription:—
+
+                              ‘CHARLES DICKENS,
+
+                           Born February 7th, 1812,
+
+                            Died June 9th, 1870’;
+
+a coffin strewed with wreaths and flowers by the female mourners; and
+then dust to dust and ashes to ashes!  Such was the funeral of the great
+man who has gone.  In coming to the Abbey, in the first coach were the
+late Mr. Dickens’s children—Mr. Charles Dickens, jun., Mr. Harry Dickens,
+Miss Dickens, Mrs. Charles Collins.  In the second coach were Mrs.
+Austin, his sister; Mrs. Charles Dickens, jun.; Miss Hogarth, his
+sister-in-law; Mr. John Forster.  In the third coach Mr. Frank Beard, his
+medical attendant; Mr. Charles Collins, his son-in-law; Mr. Dewey, his
+solicitor; Mr. Wilkie Collins; Mr. Edmund Dickens, his nephew.
+
+“By the orders of the Dean of Westminster, the officials were instructed
+to keep the grave open until six o’clock last evening, and all who came
+had the melancholy satisfaction of seeing not only the grave itself, but
+the polished oak coffin which contained the remains of the lamented
+deceased.  A raised platform was placed around the grave, and two of the
+vergers of the Abbey were in attendance to prevent crowding and preserve
+order, an almost unnecessary precaution, for all who came, comprising
+persons of various classes, conducted themselves in the most exemplary
+manner.  In the afternoon, when the fact of the interment became
+generally known, and that the coffin was to be seen, the crowds arriving
+at the Abbey became very great, and between twelve and six o’clock many
+thousands of persons had been present.  Large numbers paid a simple
+tribute to the memory of the deceased by throwing the flowers they wore
+in their coat or dress on to the coffin, until, towards the close of the
+afternoon, it was completely covered with these simplest offerings of
+public affection.”
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+The following Poetical Tribute, _in Memoriam_, was, at that sad time,
+contributed to the public Press, and is worthy of remembrance:—
+
+    “The Artist sleeps, yet friends are here he gave
+       The fair dream-children that his fancy drew;
+    A phantom crowd still gathers at his grave,
+       And in each character he lives anew.
+
+    “Soft winds of summer breathe along the fane,
+       The honoured sepulchre where Dickens lies;
+    An Emigravit write we in our pain—
+       He is not dead—the artist never dies.
+
+    “The statesman wins the mantle of a peer,
+       The warrior boasts all titles of renown;
+    We leave one laurel only on his bier,
+       And England’s love is greater than a crown.”
+
+                                                                   “S. C.”
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+So long as the art of printing remains in Society, and the powers of
+affection, appreciation, and sympathy survive in the hearts of
+Anglo-Saxons—of the Old World or the New—the name and fame of CHARLES
+DICKENS will be ever held fresh and green amongst us.  And, through the
+coming summer-dawn of time—amidst the destined agencies slowly evolving
+the brighter omens of the future—his genius shall remain co-operant.
+For, let us rest assured that “the thoughts of men are widened with the
+process of the suns”; that the wheel of time is rolling, surely for an
+end; and that all worthy labour in the cause of human progress shall
+become Immortal, as it helps to make the world purer, gentler, and more
+Christian; and hastens onwards the fulfilment of its nobler destiny.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+“The Pickwick Papers”; Mrs. Bardell’s House—The Spaniards’ Inn
+[Wellington Academy].  “Oliver Twist”; Mr. Brownlow’s Residence—Fagin and
+Bill Sykes.  “Nicholas Nickleby”; The London Tavern—Mrs. Nickleby and
+Kate in Thames Street—Mortimer Knag’s Library—General Agency
+Office—Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers—Residence of Mrs. Wititterly.  “Barnaby
+Rudge”; The Golden Key—Cellar of Mr. Stagg—The Black Lion Tavern.
+“Martin Chuzzlewit”; Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son—Montague Tigg, Esq., Pall
+Mall—Tom Pinch and Ruth at Islington.  “Dombey & Son”; Polly Toodles at
+Staggs Gardens—Miss Tox and Major Bagstock, Princess Place—Mrs.
+MacStinger and Captain Cuttle, No. 9 Brig Place.  “David Copperfield”;
+Mr. Creakle’s Establishment, Salem House—The Micawber family—Residence of
+Mrs. Steerforth—Doctor and Mrs. Strong—Mr. and Mrs. D. Copperfield—Mr.
+Traddles’s lodgings.  “Bleak House”; Addresses of Mr. Guppy and his
+Mother—Apartments of Mr. Jarndyce—Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed, Mount
+Pleasant—George’s Shooting Gallery—Mr. and Mrs. Bagnet—Harold Skimpole
+and family.  “Little Dorrit”; The House of Mrs. Clennam—Residence of Mr.
+Tite Barnacle—The Patriarchal Casby.  “Tale of Two Cities”; Old Church of
+St. Pancras in the Fields.  “Great Expectations”; Private Residence of
+Mr. Jaggers—Wemmick’s Castle, Walworth—Mr. Barley, _alias_ old
+Gruff-and-Glum.  “Our Mutual Friend”; Gaffer Hexam’s House—The Six Jolly
+Fellowship Porters—Rogue Riderhood and his Daughter—Mr. Twemlow’s
+Lodgings—The Veneerings and the Podsnaps—Boffin’s Bower.—Mr. R. Wilfer’s
+Residence—Establishment of Mr. Venus.  “Mystery of Edwin Drood”; The
+Opium Smokers’ Den.
+
+The various localities referred to in the foregoing RAMBLES comprise all
+the more interesting and better-known points which the Reader of Dickens
+would most naturally desire to visit.  In addition to these, however,
+there are several places mentioned in the many works of “The inimitable
+Boz” which may be enumerated, but cannot for the following reasons be
+included in such specified routes:—
+
+(1) Neighbourhoods have, in course of years, altogether changed, making
+it extremely difficult (in many cases impossible) to specify with
+exactitude the former situation of old houses, which have long become
+part and parcel of the forgotten past, “lost to sight” and now only “to
+memory dear.”
+
+(2) The indications given in the various tales have, in some cases, been
+purposely rendered vague and uncertain; it being the evident aim of the
+author to avoid precision, and to afford no definite clue to the position
+of many places named.
+
+(3) Some of the localities specified are situated at a considerable
+distance from any main line of route, and can be visited only by separate
+excursion specially undertaken for the purpose.
+
+In the following addendum these uncertain or distant addresses are given
+under the headings of those books in which they respectively occur; in
+order that Ramblers, if so disposed, may—in the words of Mr.
+Peggotty—“fisherate” for themselves.
+
+
+
+THE PICKWICK PAPERS.
+
+
+Mrs. Bardell’s House was located in _Goswell Street_, certainly in a
+central position; for we read that, as Mr. Pickwick looked from his
+chamber-window on the world beneath,
+
+    “Goswell Street was at his feet, Goswell Street was on his right
+    hand, as far as the eye could reach, Goswell Street extended on his
+    left, and the opposite side of Goswell Street was over the way.”
+
+The “Spaniards’ Inn” at _Hampstead_ may be remembered as the scene of the
+tea-party at which _Mrs. Bardell_ and a few select friends enjoyed
+themselves, previous to her unexpected arrest and removal to the Fleet
+Prison, at the suit of _Messrs. Dodson and Fogg_.  There still exists the
+“Spaniards” at Heath End, Hampstead Heath.
+
+[Visitors to Hampstead may be disposed to visit the site once occupied by
+Mr. Jones’s School, called the “Wellington Academy,” at which Dickens
+received some two years’ technical education; being a little over
+fourteen years old when he left.  The house is now in possession of the
+INLAND REVENUE OFFICE, at the corner of Granby Street, 247 Hampstead
+Road; part of the premises abutting on the London and North-Western
+Railway, the formation of which demolished the old schoolroom and
+playground.]
+
+               [Picture: The “Spaniards,” Hampstead Heath]
+
+
+
+OLIVER TWIST.
+
+
+Mr. Brownlow’s Residence, in “a quiet shady street near Pentonville,”
+cannot he fairly localised.  In the days of “Oliver Twist,” Mr. George
+Cruikshank, the illustrator of the book, lived at _Myddelton Terrace_,
+Pentonville; and possibly Dickens bethought himself of this vicinity in
+consequence.
+
+Fagin’s House in _Whitechapel_ and the residence of _Bill Sykes_ cannot,
+with any fairness, be accurately indicated.  The latter is spoken of as
+being in “one of a maze of mean and dirty streets, which abound in the
+close and densely populated quarter of Bethnal Green.”
+
+
+
+NICHOLAS NICKLEBY.
+
+
+The London Tavern, at which was held the Meeting in promotion of “The
+United Metropolitan Improved Hot Muffin and Crumpet Baking and Punctual
+Delivery Company,” once (many years since) occupied the site of the ROYAL
+BANK OF SCOTLAND, 123 _Bishopsgate Street Within_, on the left hand
+entering the street from Cornhill.
+
+Mrs. Nickleby and her daughter Kate lived, per favour of their amiable
+relative, in _Thames Street_.  This business thoroughfare has undergone
+considerable reconstruction since the days of their tenancy, and the
+particular dwelling intended cannot be identified.  The place is
+described as a “large, old dingy house, the doors and windows of which
+were so bespattered with mud that it would have appeared to have been
+uninhabited for years.”
+
+Mr. Mortimer Knag kept a small circulating library “in a by-street off
+Tottenham Court Road,” where also lived his sister, _Miss Knag_, the
+presiding genius of Madame Mantalini’s establishment; and we may remember
+the evening when Mrs. Nickleby and Kate were graciously invited to supper
+at this abode of literary genius.
+
+The General Agency Office, at which Nicholas Nickleby obtained the
+address of _Mr. Gregsbury_, _M.P._, Manchester Buildings, Westminster
+(also one of the lost localities of London), and where he first met
+_Madeline Bray_, has no specified direction in the book.  There have been
+few such agencies existent in a central position in London.
+
+Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers had their place of business in a small City
+square.  “Passing along Threadneedle Street, and through some lanes and
+passages on the right,” we read that Nicholas was conducted by _Mr.
+Charles Cheeryble_ to the place in occupation of the firm—
+
+    “The City square has no enclosure, save the lamp-post in the middle,
+    and no grass but the weeds which spring up around its base.  It is a
+    quiet, little-frequented, retired spot, favourable to melancholy and
+    contemplation, and appointments of long waiting. . . .  In
+    winter-time the snow will linger there long after it has melted from
+    the busy streets and highways.  The summer’s sun holds it in some
+    respect, and while he darts his cheerful rays sparingly into the
+    square, keeps his fiery heat and glare for noisier and less imposing
+    precincts.  It is so quiet, that you can almost hear the ticking of
+    your own watch, when you stop to cool in its refreshing atmosphere.
+    There is a distant hum—of coaches, not of insects—but no other sound
+    disturbs the stillness of the square.”
+
+The Residence of Mrs. Wititterly is referred to as having been pleasantly
+situated in Cadogan Place, Sloane Street—
+
+    “Cadogan Place is the one slight bond which joins two extremities; it
+    is the connecting link between the aristocratic pavements of Belgrave
+    Square and the barbarism of Chelsea.  It is in Sloane Street, but not
+    of it.  The people of Cadogan Place look down upon Sloane Street, and
+    think Brompton low.  They affect fashion, too, and wonder where the
+    New Road is.  Not that they claim to be on precisely the same footing
+    as the high folks of Belgrave Square and Grosvenor Place, but that
+    they stand, in reference to them, rather in the light of those
+    illegitimate children of the great, who are content to boast of their
+    connexions, although their connexions disavow them.”
+
+
+
+BARNABY RUDGE.
+
+
+“The Golden Key”—the house of honest _Gabriel Varden_, the locksmith—was
+in Clerkenwell, situated in a quiet street not far from the Charter
+House—
+
+    “A modest building, not very straight, not large, not tall, not
+    bold-faced, with great staring windows, but a shy, blinking house,
+    with a conical roof going up into a peak over its garret window of
+    four small panes of glass, like a cocked hat on the head of an
+    elderly gentleman with one eye.  It was not built of brick, or lofty
+    stone, but of wood and plaster; it was not planned with a dull and
+    wearisome regard to regularity, for no one window matched the other,
+    or seemed to have the slightest reference to anything beside itself.”
+
+This was its description one hundred years ago, and its exact whereabouts
+cannot now be ascertained.  There are some old plaster-fronted houses,
+evidently belonging to the last century, still to be found in _Albemarle
+Street_, near _St. John’s Square_, but none of these fairly correspond
+with the description of “The Golden Key.”
+
+The Cellar of Mr. Stagg was situated in _Barbican_.  We read that its
+position was “in one of the narrowest of the narrow streets which diverge
+from that centre, in a blind court or yard, profoundly dark, unpaved, and
+reeking with stagnant odours.”
+
+“The Black Lion” Tavern can only be identified as being situated in
+Whitechapel.  It was a favourite resort of _Mr. John Willett_, landlord
+of the “MAYPOLE INN” at _Chigwell_, when he came to town; and we may
+remember it as the scene of _Dolly Varden’s_ satisfactory interview with
+her lover Joe, after his return from “the Salwanners.”
+
+
+
+MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT.
+
+
+Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son had their place of business near _Aldersgate
+Street_.  Their dreary residence was the bridal home of Mercy
+Pecksniff—married by Jonas Chuzzlewit—and we may recollect her reception
+at this establishment by the worthy _Sairey Gamp_.  To this house Jonas
+returned after the murder of Montague Tigg, and was here arrested by his
+relative _Chevy Slyme_, in the presence of his uncle and Mark Tapley.
+Its situation is described as being in
+
+    “A very narrow street, somewhere behind the Post Office, where every
+    house was in the brightest summer morning very gloomy; and where
+    light porters watered the pavement, each before his own employer’s
+    premises, in fantastic patterns in the dog-days; and where spruce
+    gentlemen, with their hands in the pockets of symmetrical trousers,
+    were always to be seen in warm weather contemplating their undeniable
+    boots in dusty warehouse doorways, which appeared to be the hardest
+    work they did, except now and then carrying pens behind their ears.”
+
+Montague Tigg, Esq., the Chairman of the _Anglo-Bengalee Insurance
+Company_, lived in luxurious chambers in _Pall Mall_; and we may remember
+the morning when Jonas Chuzzlewit called at the residence of his chief,
+and was disagreeably surprised to find his friend in full possession of
+his secret history—with _Mr. Nadgett_ in attendance.
+
+Tom Pinch and his sister _Ruth_ lodged at “Merry Islington,” “in a
+singular little old-fashioned house, up a blind street,” where they were
+accommodated with two small bedrooms and a triangular parlour, the
+householder being the inscrutable _Mr. Nadgett_.  In “Martin Chuzzlewit”
+are contained many pleasant episodes associated with these modest
+apartments; where, as we all know, little Ruth made her first culinary
+experiment, and was pleasantly surprised the next morning to find the
+merry present of a cookery-book awaiting her in the parlour (sent by John
+Westlock), with the beefsteak pudding leaf turned down and blotted out.
+
+
+
+DOMBEY AND SON.
+
+
+Polly Toodles (otherwise Richards) lived with her husband and her
+“apple-faced” family, at _Stagg’s Gardens_, _Camden Town_, at the time
+when the London and North-Western Railway was in course of construction—
+
+    “As yet the neighbourhood was shy to own the railroad.  One or two
+    bold speculators had projected streets, and one had built a little,
+    but had stopped among the mud and ashes to consider further of it.  A
+    bran new tavern, redolent of fresh mortar and size, and fronting
+    nothing at all, had taken for its sign the ‘Railway Arms;’ but that
+    might be rash enterprise—and then it hoped to sell drink to the
+    workmen.  So the Excavators’ house of Call had sprung up from a
+    beer-shop, and the old-established Ham and Beef Shop had become the
+    Railway Eating House, with a roast leg of pork daily, through
+    interested motives of a similar immediate and popular description.”
+
+In a later chapter of “Dombey” we read of Stagg’s Gardens having vanished
+from the earth—
+
+    “Where the old rotten summer-houses once had stood, palaces now
+    reared their heads, and granite columns of gigantic girth opened a
+    vista to the railway world beyond.  The miserable waste ground, where
+    the refuse matter had been heaped of yore, was swallowed up and gone,
+    and in its frowzy stead were tiers of warehouses, crammed with rich
+    goods and costly merchandise.  The old bye-streets now swarmed with
+    passengers and vehicles of every kind: the new streets that had
+    stopped disheartened in the mud and waggon-ruts, formed towns within
+    themselves, originating wholesome comforts and conveniences belonging
+    to themselves, and never tried nor thought of until they sprung into
+    existence.”
+
+Miss Lucretia Tox had apartments at _Princess Place_, an address not
+included in the London Directory; and _Major Bagstock_ also had chambers
+in the immediate vicinity, a genteel but somewhat inconvenient
+neighbourhood.  Miss Tox’s residence is described as
+
+    “A dark little house, that had been squeezed at some remote period of
+    English history into a fashionable neighbourhood at the west end of
+    the town, where it stood in the shade, like a poor relation of the
+    great street round the corner, coldly looked down upon by mighty
+    mansions.  It was not exactly in a court, and it was not exactly in a
+    yard, but it was in the dullest of No-Thoroughfares, rendered anxious
+    and haggard by double knocks. . . .  There is a smack of stabling in
+    the air of Princess Place, and Miss Tox’s bedroom (which was at the
+    back) commanded a vista of mews, where hostlers, at whatever sort of
+    work engaged, were continually accompanying themselves with
+    effervescent noises, and where the most domestic and confidential
+    garments of coachmen and their wives and families usually hung like
+    Macbeth’s banners on the outer walls.”
+
+Mrs. MacStinger presided at _No. 9 Brig Place_, finding accommodation for
+_Captain Cuttle_ as her first floor lodger, previous to the time of his
+hurried and secret removal to the quarters of _The Wooden Midshipman_.
+We read that the house was situated
+
+    “On the brink of a little canal near the India Docks, where the air
+    was perfumed with chips, and all other trades were swallowed up in
+    mast, oar, and block making, and boat building.  Then the ground grew
+    marshy and unsettled.  Then there was nothing to be smelt but rum and
+    sugar.  Then Captain Cuttle’s lodgings, at once a first floor and a
+    top storey, in Brig Place, were close before you.”
+
+
+
+DAVID COPPERFIELD.
+
+
+Mr. Creakle’s educational establishment, “_Salem House_,” was, we are
+told, “down by Blackheath.”  A large, dull house, standing away from the
+main road among some dark trees, and surrounded by a high wall.  The
+character of Mr. Creakle seems to have been drawn from life; being, in
+fact, a portrait of the proprietor of the “_Wellington Academy_,”
+Hampstead Road, previously referred to.  _Dr. Danson_, an old
+schoolfellow of Dickens, writing to Mr. Forster, states that this “Mr.
+Jones was a Welshman, a most ignorant fellow, and a mere tyrant, whose
+chief employment was to scourge the boys.”  Also, Mr. Forster, speaking
+of the school, says, “it had supplied some of the lighter traits of Salem
+House for ‘Copperfield.’”
+
+Mr. Micawber lived in Windsor Terrace, City Road, at the time he first
+received young David Copperfield as a lodger, and previous to the crisis
+in his pecuniary affairs which removed him to KING’S BENCH PRISON in the
+Borough.
+
+We also read, later in the book, of the Micawbers as located in a little
+street near _The Veterinary College_, _Camden Town_, what time _Mr.
+Traddles_ was their lodger; and we may remember how the astute Mr.
+Micawber took advantage of the circumstance, by obtaining the friendly
+signature of his inmate as security, in the matter of two bills “not
+provided for.”
+
+Mrs. Steerforth resided in “an old brick house at _Highgate_, on the
+summit of the hill; a genteel, old-fashioned house, very quiet, and very
+orderly,” from which position a comprehensive view was obtainable of “all
+London lying in the distance like a great vapour, with here and there
+some lights twinkling through it.”  In connection with this house we may
+recall the characters of _Rosa Dartle_ and the respectable serving-man
+_Littimer_.
+
+Doctor and Mrs. Strong also lived in a cottage at Highgate after their
+removal from Canterbury; and _Mr. and Mrs. David Copperfield_ resided in
+the same neighbourhood, with _Betsy Trotwood_ established in a convenient
+cottage near at hand.
+
+Mr. Traddles, in his bachelor days, had lodgings behind the parapet of a
+house in _Castle Street_, _Holborn_.  This thoroughfare has now changed
+its name, and is known as FURNIVAL STREET.  It may be found on the south
+side of Holborn, and west of Fetter Lane, leading to Cursitor Street.
+
+
+
+BLEAK HOUSE.
+
+
+Mr. Guppy mentioned his address as 87 _Penton Place_, _Pentonville_; but
+the London Directory does not now include the number specified.  The
+residence of _Mrs. Guppy_, his mother, is stated as having been 302 _Old
+Street Road_; previous to the time when a house was taken (by mother and
+son) in _Walcot Square_, _Lambeth_, on the south side of the Thames, and
+Mr. Guppy started on his independent professional career.
+
+Mr. Jarndyce once sojourned in London, “at a cheerful lodging near
+_Oxford Street_, over an upholsterer’s shop,” at which also Ada Clare and
+Esther Summerson were accommodated.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed vegetated, with their grandchildren, “in a rather
+ill-favoured and ill-savoured neighbourhood, though one of its rising
+grounds bears the name of _Mount Pleasant_.”  This beatific neighbourhood
+will be found north of _Clerkenwell Road_ (approached by _Laystall
+Street_), in the neighbourhood of the MIDDLESEX HOUSE OF CORRECTION.
+
+George’s Shooting Gallery is memorable as the place where _Gridley_—“the
+man from Shropshire”—died; where also _Poor Jo_, clinging to the spars of
+the Lord’s Prayer, drifted out upon the unknown sea.  It is described as
+“a great brick building, composed of bare walls, floors, roof-rafters,
+and skylights; on the front of which was painted ‘George’s Shooting
+Gallery.’”  Its location is given as being up a court and a long
+whitewashed passage, in
+
+    “That curious region lying about the Haymarket and Leicester Square,
+    which is a centre of attraction to indifferent foreign hotels and
+    indifferent foreigners, racket courts, fighting men, swordsmen,
+    foot-guards, old china, gambling-houses, exhibitions, and a large
+    medley of shabbiness and shrinking out of sight.”
+
+Mr. Bagnet and his “old girl” kept house and home on the Surrey side of
+the river; but no more precise indication of their whereabouts is given
+than is contained in the following reference:—
+
+    “By Blackfriars’ Bridge, and Blackfriars’ Road, Mr. George sedately
+    marches to a street of little shops lying somewhere in that ganglion
+    of roads from Kent and Surrey, and of streets from the bridges of
+    London, centreing in the far-famed Elephant who has lost his castle.”
+
+The Town House of Sir Leicester and Lady Dedlock was situated in a dull
+aristocratic street in the western district of London,
+
+    “Where the two long rows of houses stare at each other with that
+    severity, that half-a-dozen of its greatest mansions seem to have
+    been slowly stared into stone, rather than originally built in that
+    material.  It is a street of such dismal grandeur, so determined not
+    to condescend to liveliness, that the doors and windows hold a gloomy
+    state of their own in black paint and dust, and the echoing mews
+    behind have a dry and massive appearance, as if they were reserved to
+    stable the stone chargers of noble statues.”
+
+Harold Skimpole and family had their residence in the _Polygon_, near to
+the EUSTON TERMINUS (on the east side), in the centre of _Clarendon
+Square_, _Somers Town_.  The house is described as being sadly in want of
+repair—
+
+    “Two or three of the area railings were gone; the water-butt was
+    broken; the knocker was loose; the bell-handle had been pulled off a
+    long time, to judge from the rusty state of the wire; and dirty
+    footprints on the steps were the only signs of its being inhabited.”
+
+
+
+LITTLE DORRIT.
+
+
+The House of Mrs. Clennam was situated not far from the river, in the
+neighbourhood of _Upper Thames Street_.  We read that Arthur Clennam, on
+his arrival in London,
+
+    “Crossed by Saint Paul’s and went down, at a long angle, almost to
+    the water’s edge, through some of the crooked and descending streets
+    which lie (and lay more crookedly and closely then) between the river
+    and Cheapside . . . passing silent warehouses and wharves, and here
+    and there a narrow alley leading to the river, where a wretched
+    little bill, ‘Found Drowned,’ was weeping on the wet wall; he came at
+    last to the house he sought.  An old brick house, so dingy as to be
+    all but black, standing by itself within a gateway.”
+
+Mr. Tite Barnacle had his residence in _Mews Street_, _Grosvenor Square_—
+
+    “It was a hideous little street of dead wall, stables, and dunghills,
+    with lofts over coach-houses inhabited by coachmen’s families, who
+    had a passion for drying clothes, and decorating their window-sills
+    with miniature turnpike-gates.  The principal chimney-sweep of that
+    fashionable quarter lived at the blind end of Mews Street. . . .  Yet
+    there were two or three small airless houses at the entrance end of
+    Mews Street, which went at enormous rents on account of their being
+    abject hangers-on to a fashionable situation; and whenever one of
+    these fearful little coops was to be let (which seldom happened, for
+    they were in great request), the house agent advertised it as a
+    gentlemanly residence in the most aristocratic part of the town,
+    inhabited solely by the élite of the beau monde.”
+
+The Patriarchal Casby, with his daughter—the irrepressible _Flora_—and
+_Mr. F.’s Aunt_,
+
+    “Lived in a street in the Gray’s Inn Road, which had set off from
+    that thoroughfare with the intention of running at one heat down into
+    the valley, and up again to the top of Pentonville Hill; but which
+    had run itself out of breath in twenty yards, and had stood still
+    ever since.  There is no such place in that part now; but it remained
+    there for many years, looking with a baulked countenance at the
+    wilderness patched with unfruitful gardens, and pimpled with eruptive
+    summer-houses, that it had meant to run over in no time.”
+
+
+
+TALE OF TWO CITIES.
+
+
+In this Tale we read of the funeral of _Cly_, the Old Bailey Informer;
+the interment taking place in the burial-ground attached to the ancient
+church of St. Pancras in the Fields.  This edifice still exists in
+PANCRAS ROAD (east side, opposite _Goldington Crescent_), which leads
+from King’s Cross, northward, to Kentish Town.  There is a church of the
+same name to be found in the EUSTON ROAD—east of _Upper Woburn Place_,
+but this is altogether another and more modern structure than the one
+above referred to.  A century since, at the time of the funeral
+described, the name of this locality was literally correct; the church
+being situated in the outlying fields of the suburban village of PANCRAS.
+We may here recollect the fishing expedition undertaken by _Mr. Cruncher_
+and his two companions, on the night following the funeral; when young
+_Jerry_ quietly followed his “honoured parent,” and assured himself of
+the nature of his father’s secret avocation.
+
+
+
+GREAT EXPECTATIONS.
+
+
+Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, had his private residence on the
+south side of _Gerrard Street_, _Soho_, where he lived in solitary state,
+with his eccentric housekeeper, the mother of Estella: “Rather a stately
+house of its kind, but dolefully in want of painting, and with dirty
+windows.”
+
+Wemmick’s Castle at _Walworth_ is altogether a place of the past;
+Walworth being now one of the most populous and crowded of metropolitan
+districts.  We read that in Pip’s time
+
+    “It appeared to be a collection of black lanes, ditches, and little
+    gardens, and to present the aspect of a rather dull retirement.
+    Wemmick’s house was a little wooden cottage in the midst of plots of
+    garden, and the top of it was cut out and painted like a battery
+    mounted with guns.”
+
+Mr. Barley, _alias Old Gruff-and-Glum_, lived at _Mill Pond Bank_, by
+Chinks’s Basin and the Old Green Copper Rope-walk.  Pip says the place
+was anything but easy to find.  Losing himself among shipbuilders’ and
+shipbreakers’ yards, he continues the description of his search as
+follows:—
+
+    “After several times falling short of my destination, and as often
+    overshooting it, I came unexpectedly round a corner, upon Mill Pond
+    Bank.  It was a fresh kind of place, all circumstances considered,
+    where the wind from the river had room to turn itself round; and
+    there were two or three trees in it, and there was the stump of a
+    ruined windmill, and there was the Old Green Copper Rope-walk—whose
+    long and narrow vista I could trace in the moonlight, along a series
+    of wooden frames set in the ground, that looked like superannuated
+    haymaking rakes, which had grown old and lost most of their teeth.
+    Selecting from the few queer houses upon Mill Pond Bank, a house with
+    a wooden front and three storeys of bow-window (not bay-window, which
+    is another thing), I looked at the plate upon the door, and read
+    there Mrs. Whimple . . . the name I wanted.”
+
+
+
+OUR MUTUAL FRIEND.
+
+
+The House of Gaffer Hexam, the humble home of _Lizzie Hexam_ and her
+brother, was situated somewhere in the district of _Limehouse_, near the
+river.  In a description given of the route by which Messrs. Lightwood
+and Wrayburn approached this locality, we read—
+
+    “Down by the Monument, and by the Tower, and by the Docks; down by
+    Ratcliffe, and by Rotherhithe. . . .  In and out among vessels that
+    seemed to have got ashore, and houses that seemed to have got
+    afloat—among bowsprits staring into windows, and windows staring into
+    ships—the wheels rolled on, until they stopped at a dark corner,
+    river-washed and otherwise not washed at all, where the boy alighted
+    and opened the door.”
+
+“The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters” was located in this same vicinity,
+overlooking the river.  A waterside public-house, kept by _Miss Abbey
+Patterson_, who enforced a certain standard of respectability among her
+numerous clients, and conducted the house with a strict regard to
+discipline and punctuality—
+
+    “Externally, it was a narrow, lop-sided, wooden jumble of corpulent
+    windows heaped one upon another, as you might heap as many toppling
+    oranges, with a crazy wooden verandah impending over the water;
+    indeed, the whole house, inclusive of the complaining flagstaff on
+    the roof, impended over the water, but seemed to have got into the
+    condition of a faint-hearted diver who has paused so long on the
+    brink that he will never go in at all. . . .  The back of the
+    establishment, though the chief entrance, was there so contracted
+    that it merely represented, in its connection with the front, the
+    handle of a flat iron set upright on its broadest end.  This handle
+    stood at the bottom of a wilderness of court and alley; which
+    wilderness pressed so hard and close upon the ‘Six Jolly Fellowship
+    Porters,’ as to leave the hostelry not an inch of ground beyond its
+    door.”
+
+Rogue Riderhood and his daughter _Pleasant_ traded at _Limehouse Hole_,
+in the same district as above, where they kept “a leaving shop” for
+sailors; advancing small sums of money on the portable property of
+seafaring customers.  Mr. Riderhood did not stand well in the esteem of
+the neighbourhood, which “was rather shy in reference to the honour of
+cultivating” his acquaintance, his daughter being the more respectable
+and respected member of the firm.
+
+Mr. Twemlow, “an innocent piece of dinner furniture,” often in request in
+certain West-end circles of society, lodged in _Duke Street_, _St.
+James’s_, “over a livery stable-yard.”
+
+The Location of the Veneering Family is described as “a bran-new house,
+in a bran-new quarter,” designated by the appellation of “_Stucconia_;”
+while their intimate friends The Podsnaps flourished “in a shady angle
+adjoining _Portman Square_.”
+
+Boffin’s Bower, the home in which we are first introduced to the Golden
+Dustman and his wife, was to be found “about a mile and a quarter up
+Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge,” in the close vicinity of the Mounds of Dust
+for which Mr. Harman was the contractor.
+
+The Location of Mr. R. Wilfer and family was in the northern district of
+_Holloway_, beyond Battle Bridge, divided therefrom by “a tract of
+suburban Sahara, where tiles and bricks were burnt, bones were boiled,
+carpets were beat, rubbish was shot, dogs were fought, and dust was
+heaped by contractors.”
+
+The Establishment of Mr. Venus was in _Clerkenwell_, among
+
+    “The poorer shops of small retail traders in commodities to eat and
+    drink and keep folks warm, and of Italian frame-makers, and of
+    barbers, and of brokers, and of dealers in dogs and singing-birds.
+    From these, in a narrow and a dirty street devoted to such callings,
+    Mr. Wegg selects one dark shop-window with a tallow candle dimly
+    burning in it, surrounded by a muddle of objects vaguely resembling
+    pieces of leather and dry stick, but among which nothing is
+    resolvable into anything distinct, save the candle itself in its old
+    tin candlestick, and two preserved frogs fighting a small-sword
+    duel.”
+
+
+
+THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD.
+
+
+In the first chapter of the tale we are introduced to “the meanest and
+closest of small rooms,” where, “through the ragged window-curtain, the
+light of early day steals in from a miserable court.”  A man
+
+    “Lies dressed, across a large unseemly bed, upon a bedstead that has
+    indeed given way under the weight upon it.  Lying, also dressed, and
+    also across the bed, not longwise, are a Chinaman, a Lascar, and a
+    haggard woman.  The two first are in a sleep or stupor; the last is
+    blowing at a kind of pipe, to kindle it.”
+
+This Opium Smokers’ Den had its location in an eastern district of
+London, probably the _Shadwell_ neighbourhood of the LONDON DOCKS, but no
+precise indication of its whereabouts is given in the tale.  We read of
+John Jasper starting from his hotel in _Falcon Square_: “Eastward, and
+still eastward, through the stale streets, he takes his way, until he
+reaches his destination—a miserable court, specially miserable among many
+such.”
+
+
+
+THE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM
+
+
+is readily attainable from _Charing Cross_ (or any other) station of the
+_District Metropolitan Railway_.  Entrance in _Cromwell Road_, five
+minutes’ walk, on the north side, from South Kensington Station.
+
+The Forster Collection—on the first floor—in this museum contains several
+of the earlier LETTERS written by Dickens to Forster, and the pen-and-ink
+sketch by _Maclise_, representing the “Apotheosis of ‘Grip,’” the
+celebrated Raven, who departed this life at No. 1 Devonshire Terrace,
+March 12th, 1841.  There are also here exhibited The Manuscripts of the
+principal WORKS OF DICKENS, together with a _Proof Copy_ of “David
+Copperfield,” showing the corrections of the Author.  Most of these lie
+opened, each at its first page; and it is interesting to observe the
+careful interlineations and alterations with which the various original
+copies were amended.  In the case of “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” the
+sorrowful memento of its final page is exposed to view, as being the last
+sheet written by the “vanished hand” of our much loved and faithful
+friend,
+
+                   [Picture: Charles Dickens Signature]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+ACCADEMY, Turveydrop’s, 65
+
+Adam Street, 5
+
+Adelphi Arches, The, 5
+
+— Hotel, The, 5
+
+Albany, The, 62
+
+Aldgate High Street, 70
+
+— Pump, 71
+
+Almshouses, Watts’s, 95
+
+Apartments of Captain Cuttle, 156
+
+— Major Bagstock, 156
+
+— Miss Tox, 156
+
+— Mrs. Gamp, 50
+
+— Richard Carstone, 52
+
+— The Kenwigses, 64
+
+— Tom Pinch, 155
+
+Apotheosis of “Grip,” 164
+
+Artful Dodger at Court, The, 8
+
+— Dodger at Work, The, 37
+
+Astley’s Theatre, 78
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+BAGNET, Mr., 159
+
+Bailey, Junior, 50, 72
+
+Bank, Child’s, 20
+
+— of England, 67
+
+— Tellson’s, 20
+
+Bardell v. Pickwick, 29
+
+Bardell’s House, Mrs., 151
+
+Barley, Mr., 161
+
+Barnacle, Mr. Tite, 160
+
+Barnard’s Inn, 45
+
+Barnett’s Hotel, 3
+
+Bedfordbury, 4
+
+Bell Tavern, The, 27
+
+— Yard, 20
+
+Belle Sauvage Yard, 26
+
+Bethlehem Hospital, 77
+
+Bevis Marks, 69 70
+
+Billickin, Mrs., 51
+
+Bishop’s Court, 17
+
+Black Lion, The, 154
+
+Bleeding Hart Yard, 40
+
+Blinder, Mrs., 20
+
+Bloomsbury Square, 52
+
+“Blue Boar,” The, 68
+
+Blunderstone Rookery, 140
+
+Blundeston, 140
+
+Boarding House, Todgers’s, 71
+
+Bob Sawyer’s Lodging, 74
+
+Boffin, House of Mr., 59
+
+Boffin’s Bower, 163
+
+Boot Tavern, 55
+
+Borough, The, 72
+
+Bouverie Street, 24
+
+Bow Street Police Court, 8
+
+Bradbury & Evans, 24
+
+Bradley Headstone, 23
+
+Bream’s Buildings, 19
+
+Broad Court, 8
+
+Brook Street, Grosvenor Sq, 60
+
+Brownlow’s Residence, Mr., 3
+
+Buckhurst Hill, 128
+
+Buckingham Street, 5
+
+Buffet, Spiers and Pond’s, 46
+
+Bull and Anchor Tavern, 49
+
+Bull Inn Yard, The, 76
+
+Burial Ground, Nemo’s, 9
+
+Butler’s Wharf, 33
+
+
+
+CANTERBURY
+
+
+AUGUSTINIAN Monastery, 106
+
+Burgate Street, 111
+
+Butcher, The obnoxious, 108
+
+Canterbury, City of, 103
+
+Castle Street, 104
+
+Christchurch Gate, 106
+
+Doctor Strong, 106
+
+Faversham, 103
+
+Fleur de Lys Hotel, 109
+
+George and Dragon Inn, 109
+
+Home of Agnes, 111
+
+— Mr. Larkins, 107
+
+King’s School, 106
+
+Lady’s Green, The, 106
+
+Larkins, The eldest Miss, 107
+
+London Coach Office, 109
+
+London, Chatham & Dover Station 103, 112
+
+Margaret Street, 104, 105
+
+Markleham, Mrs., 110
+
+Mercery Lane, 105, 108
+
+Micawbers, The, 104
+
+Monastery Street, 106
+
+North Lane (No. 65), 110
+
+Palace Street, 110
+
+Queen’s Head Inn, 104
+
+Residence of Dr. Strong, 106
+
+— Mr. Wickfield, 111
+
+— Uriah Heep, 110
+
+St. Alphege, Church of, 110
+
+— Dunstan Street, 111
+
+— Margaret’s Church, 105
+
+Sittingbourne, 103
+
+Teynsham, 103
+
+Watling Street, 104
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+CARLISLE House, 66
+
+Carnaby Street, 64
+
+Carstone’s Apartments, Richard, 53
+
+Casby, Mr., 160
+
+Castle, The, 28
+
+Chadband, Rev. Mr., 19
+
+Chambers of Copperfield, 5
+
+— Mr. Fledgby, 62
+
+— Mr. Grewgious, 48
+
+— Mr. Tartar, 48
+
+— John Westlock, 46
+
+Chandos Street (No. 3), 4
+
+Chapman & Hall, Messrs., 63
+
+Charing Cross Terminus, 3, 31, 102
+
+Charles Darnay’s Trial, 36
+
+CHATHAM, 86
+
+— Clover Lane Academy, 87
+
+— Fort Pitt, 87
+
+— Military Hospital, 87
+
+— Providence Chapel, 87
+
+— Railway Street, 86
+
+— Recreation Ground, 88
+
+— Rome Lane, 86
+
+— The Brook, 87
+
+Cheeryble Bros., Messrs., 153
+
+Chester, Edward, 22
+
+— Sir John, 22, 23
+
+Chevy Slyme, 155
+
+Chichester Rents, 17
+
+Chicksey, Veneering, & Co., 71
+
+Chigwell, 129
+
+— Church, 129
+
+— King’s Head, 129
+
+Children’s Hospital, The, 53
+
+Child’s Bank, 20
+
+Chivery’s Shop, 76
+
+Christchurch, 77
+
+Church, Dulwich, 83
+
+— Emmanuel, 82
+
+— St. Alphege, 101
+
+— St. Dunstan’s, 23
+
+— St. George’s, 73
+
+— St. John the Evangelist’s, 79
+
+— St. Mary-le-Bow, 28
+
+— St. Pancras in the Fields, 161
+
+— Street, 79
+
+Chuzzlewit & Son, 154
+
+Clare Court, 10
+
+Claridge’s Hotel, 60
+
+Clennam’s House, Mrs., 160
+
+Clerkenwell Green, 37
+
+Clifford’s Inn Passage, 23
+
+Cloisterham, 88
+
+Coavinses’ Castle, 17
+
+Cobham, 84
+
+Cook’s Court, 18
+
+Cooling Village, 91
+
+Copperfield’s Chambers, 5
+
+Cornhill, 68
+
+Court of Chancery, 16
+
+Covent Garden Market, 7, 8
+
+— Theatre, 8
+
+Craven Street (No. 39), 3
+
+Creakle’s Establishment, Mr., 157
+
+Crisparkle, Rev. S., 92
+
+Cross Keys Inn, The, 28
+
+Crown Inn, The, 64
+
+Crozier Hotel, The, 98
+
+Curiosity Shop, The Old, 11
+
+Cursitor Street, 17
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+_Daily News_ Office, 24
+
+Dean’s Court, 27
+
+Dedlock Mansion, The, 159
+
+Devonshire House, 60
+
+— Street, 53
+
+— Terrace, 57
+
+Dickens, Amateur Acting of, 61
+
+— Death of, 100
+
+— Dining-House of, 10
+
+Dickens at Lamert’s Factory, 3
+
+— Letters of, 164
+
+— Manuscripts of, 164
+
+— Memorial Tablet, 92
+
+— Readings of, 9, 62
+
+— Residences of, 46, 48, 55, 87, 99
+
+— at School, 87
+
+— Tomb of, 146
+
+Dickens’s Establishment, Mrs., 56
+
+Doctor Slammer, 98
+
+Doctors’ Commons, 27
+
+Dodson & Fogg, Messrs , 68
+
+Dolls’ Dressmaker, The, 79
+
+Dombey & Son’s Offices, 30
+
+Dombey’s Residence, Mr., 58, 59
+
+Dorking, 141
+
+— “Marquis of Granby”, 142
+
+— “White Horse,” 142
+
+— Rev. Mr. Stiggins, 143
+
+— ,,    ,,  Downfall of, 144
+
+Doubledick, Richard, 98
+
+Doughty Street (No. 48), 55
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+DOVER
+
+
+COPPERFIELD’S Resting Place, 113
+
+Dover Priory, 112-114
+
+Dover, Town of, 112
+
+King’s Head Hotel, 114
+
+Market Place Corner, 113
+
+Miss Manetty and Mr. Lorry, 114
+
+Priory Hill, 114
+
+Residence of Miss Trotwood, 114
+
+Stanley Mount, 114
+
+Staplehurst Disaster, 115
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Doyce & Clennam’s Factory, 40
+
+Dulwich Church, 83
+
+Durdles, A night with, 93
+
+Durdles’s Lodgings, 93
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+EDWIN Drood and Rosa, 98
+
+Ely Place, Holborn, 41
+
+Emigration of Peggotty, &c., 100
+
+Emmanuel Church, 82
+
+Escort in London, 120
+
+Establishment of Mr. Waterbrook, 41
+
+Eugene Wrayburn, 23, 123
+
+Exchequer Coffee House, 79
+
+Execution of the Mannings, 76
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+FAGIN’S House, 152
+
+Falcon Hotel, 34
+
+Falstaff Inn, 99
+
+Fang, Mr. J. P., 38, 39
+
+Feast of the Three Hobgoblins, 71
+
+Feenix Town House, 60
+
+Field Lane, 39
+
+Finches of the Grove, The, 7
+
+First Avenue Hotel, 49
+
+— Readings, Dickens’s, 9
+
+Fish Street Hill, 71
+
+Fleet Market, 25
+
+— Prison, 25
+
+Flite, Miss, 16
+
+Folly Ditch, 32
+
+Forest House, Chigwell, 131
+
+Forge, Joe Gargery’s, 90
+
+Forster Collection, The, 164
+
+Forster’s House, Mr., 14
+
+Foundling Hospital, The, 54
+
+Fountain Court, Temple, 21
+
+Fox-under-the-Hill, The, 6
+
+Freeman’s Court, 68
+
+Funeral of Dickens, 147
+
+Furnival’s Inn, 46
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+GADSHILL Place, 99
+
+Gaffer Hexam’s House, 162
+
+Gamp, Mrs., 50
+
+Garden Court, Temple, 21
+
+Gargery’s Forge, Joe, 91
+
+Gate of the Temple, 21
+
+General Agency Office, 153
+
+George and Vulture Inn, The, 68
+
+George the IVth, The Old, 12
+
+George Yard, The, 68
+
+George’s Shooting-Gallery, 158
+
+Giles, Rev. William, 87
+
+Golden Cross Hotel, The, 1
+
+— Key, The, 154
+
+— Square, 63
+
+Goldsmith’s Buildings, 23
+
+Gordon, Lord George, 60
+
+— Riots, The, 36, 44
+
+Goswell Street, 151
+
+Gower Street, 56, 57
+
+Gravesend, 100
+
+Gray’s Inn, 49
+
+Great Ormond Street, 53
+
+— Yarmouth, 135
+
+— Angel Hotel, 138
+
+— Coaches, 138
+
+— Home of Little Emily, 136
+
+— Star Hotel, 138
+
+— Storm at, 137
+
+Green Dragon Tavern, The, 68
+
+Greenwich Park, 101
+
+Gridley’s Lodgings, 20
+
+Grip, The Raven, 28
+
+— Apotheosis of, 164
+
+Grocers’ Hall Court, 29
+
+Guild of Literature and Art, 61
+
+Guildhall, The, 28
+
+Guppy, Mr., 62, 158
+
+Guppy’s Address, Mr., 158
+
+— Mrs., 158
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+HAMPSTEAD, 151, 152
+
+Hanging Sword Alley, 24
+
+Harley Street, 58
+
+Hatchett’s Hotel, 61
+
+Hatton Yard, 38
+
+Hawdon, Capt., 17
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+HENLEY
+
+
+A CRY for Help, 122
+
+Anchor Inn, 121
+
+Aston, 124
+
+Attack by Headstone, 123
+
+Betty Higden, Death of, 122
+
+— Burial of, 122
+
+Death of Riderhood and Headstone, 125
+
+Eastern Tow Path, 124
+
+Eugene Wrayburn, 123
+
+Fawley Court, 124
+
+Greenlands, 124
+
+Harmon’s Reflections, 127
+
+Henley Bridge, 123
+
+Hurley Lock, 125
+
+Kensal Green Cemetery, 117
+
+Lizzie Hexam, 119, 122, 123
+
+Lock House, Hurley, 125
+
+Marriage of Eugene and Lizzie, 119
+
+Marsh Lock, 123
+
+— Mill, 121
+
+Medmenham Abbey, 124
+
+Micawber’s Quotation, 126
+
+Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, 124, 125
+
+Railway Station, Henley, 121
+
+Red Lion Inn, 118
+
+— Lawn, 119
+
+Rescue of Eugene, 119
+
+Rogue Riderhood, 125
+
+Stoke Pogis Churchyard, 126
+
+Tow Path, The, 121
+
+Waterloo Station, 120
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Her Majesty’s Theatre, 80
+
+Hexam’s House, 162
+
+Holborn Restaurant, The, 14
+
+— Viaduct, 37
+
+Hope Brothers, Messrs., 26
+
+Horndean, 141
+
+Horse and Groom, The, 13
+
+— Guards, The, 80
+
+Horsemonger Lane Gaol, 76
+
+Horseshoe Restaurant, The, 66
+
+Hospital, Bethlehem, 77
+
+— Children’s, The, 53
+
+— Foundling, The, 54
+
+Hotel, Adelphi, 5
+
+— Barnett’s Private, 3
+
+— Cecil, 5
+
+— Claridge’s, 60
+
+— Falcon, 34
+
+— First Avenue, 49
+
+— Golden Cross, 1
+
+— Hatchett’s, 61
+
+— Hummums, 7
+
+— Tavistock, 7
+
+— Woods’, 47
+
+House of Sampson Brass, 70
+
+— Sol Gills, 69
+
+_Household Words Office_, 7
+
+Hugh, 23
+
+Hungerford Market, 3
+
+— Stairs, 3
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+IPSWICH, 131
+
+— Residence of Mr. Nupkins, 134
+
+— St. Clement’s Church, 133
+
+— White Horse Hotel, 131
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+JACOB’S Island, 32
+
+Jaggers, Offices of Mr., 35
+
+— Residence of Mr., 161
+
+Jarndyce, Mr., 158
+
+Jarndyce v. Jarndyce, 16
+
+Jellyby’s Residence, Mrs., 41
+
+Jenny Wren, 79, 119
+
+Jerry Cruncher’s Apartments, 24
+
+— Cruncher’s Employment, 161
+
+Jingle, Mr., 2, 97, 134
+
+Job Trotter, 133
+
+John Jasper, Apartments of, 94
+
+Johnny’s Will, 54
+
+Julius Handford, Mr., 79
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+KENGE & Carboy’s Offices, 16
+
+Kenwigs Family, The, 64
+
+King’s Bench Prison, 74, 75
+
+“King’s Head,” Chigwell, 129
+
+King’s Head Court, 71
+
+Kingsgate Street, 50
+
+Knag, Mr. and Miss, 153
+
+Krook’s Warehouse, 17
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+LAING, Mr. J. P., 39
+
+Lambeth Palace, 78
+
+— Road, 78
+
+Lamert’s Blacking Factory, 3
+
+— Warehouse, 3
+
+Langdale’s Distillery, 39
+
+Lant Street, 74
+
+Leadenhall Street, 69
+
+Leather Bottle Inn, The, 84
+
+Letters of Dickens, 164
+
+Lewsome’s Illness, 49
+
+Lightwood’s Offices, 23
+
+Lincoln’s Inn Chambers, 18
+
+— Fields, 14, 15
+
+— Hall, 16
+
+— Old Square, 16
+
+Lirriper’s Lodgings, 11
+
+Little Britain, 35
+
+London Bridge, 72
+
+— Coffee Tavern, The, 26
+
+— Stereoscopic Company, 28
+
+— Street, 32
+
+— Tavern, The, 152
+
+Lucretia Tox, Miss, 156
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+MACSTINGER, Mrs., 156
+
+Magpie and Stump, The, 12
+
+Manette, Doctor, 66
+
+— Street, 66
+
+Mansfield, Lord, 52
+
+— Street, 58
+
+Mansion House, The, 29
+
+Mantalini, Madame, 59
+
+Manuscripts of Dickens, 164
+
+Mark Tapley, 6, 29
+
+Market, Covent Garden, 7, 8
+
+— Farringdon, 25
+
+— Fleet, 25
+
+— Hungerford, 3
+
+Marshall Street, 65
+
+Marshalsea Place, 73
+
+— Prison, 73
+
+Martha’s Lodging, 65
+
+— Suicidal attempt, 78
+
+Martin Chuzzlewit, 6, 21
+
+“Maypole Inn,” The, 129
+
+Memorial Hall, The, 25
+
+Merdle, Mr., 58
+
+Micawber, Mr., 157
+
+Mill Bank Street, 78
+
+— Street, 32
+
+Mincing Lane, 71
+
+Minor Canon Corner, 92
+
+Minories, 70, 71
+
+Monk’s Vineyard, The, 91
+
+Mowcher, Miss, 139
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+NADGETT, Mr., 155
+
+Nancy and Rose Maylie, 72
+
+Neckett’s Lodging, 20
+
+Nemo’s Burial, 9
+
+— Lodging, 17
+
+Newgate Prison, 35
+
+— Burning of, 36
+
+Newman Noggs, 64
+
+— Street, 65
+
+Newman’s Court, 68
+
+Nickleby’s Office, Ralph, 63
+
+Noah Claypole, 72
+
+Norie & Wilson, Messrs., 69
+
+Nuns’ House, The, 89
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+OBELISK, St. George’s, 77
+
+Office of Chicksey & Co., 71
+
+— Daily News, The, 24
+
+— Dodson & Fogg, 68
+
+— Dombey & Son, 30
+
+— Jaggers, Mr., 35
+
+— Kenge & Carboy, 16
+
+— Lightwood & Wrayburn, 23
+
+— Perker, Mr., 49
+
+— Pubsey & Co., 69
+
+— Ralph Nickleby, 63
+
+— Spenlow & Jorkins, 27
+
+Old Bailey, The, 36
+
+— Curiosity Shop, The, 11, 12
+
+— Gruff-and-Glum, 161
+
+— Palace Yard, 79
+
+Old Ship Tavern, The, 17
+
+— Square, Lincoln’s Inn, 16
+
+Olde Cheshire Cheese, Ye, 24
+
+Oliver Twist at Court, 38
+
+— enlightened, 37
+
+— entering London, 38
+
+Opium Smokers’ Den, The, 164
+
+Osborn’s Hotel, 5
+
+“Our House,” 59
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+PAPER Buildings, Temple, 22
+
+Park, St. James’s, 80
+
+Parliament Street, 79
+
+Peabody’s Buildings, 4
+
+Pecksniff’s Downfall, 22
+
+Peggotty, Mr., 100
+
+— House of, 136
+
+Perker’s Offices, 49
+
+Piccadilly, 61, 62
+
+Pickwick’s Discovery, 85
+
+— Imprisonment, 25
+
+— Retirement, 83
+
+— Travels, 2, 61
+
+— Trial, 28
+
+Pip’s Chambers, 21
+
+P. J. T., 48
+
+Plornish’s Home, 40
+
+Podsnaps, The, 8
+
+Poetical Tribute, 149
+
+Police Court, Bow Street, 8
+
+— Hatton Garden, 38
+
+Portsmouth, 145
+
+— Birthplace of Dickens, 145
+
+— Cambridge Barracks, 145
+
+— Street, 11
+
+— Theatre, 145
+
+Portugal Street, 13
+
+Post Office, Charing Cross, 1
+
+— General, 34
+
+Poultry, The, 29
+
+Princess Place, 156
+
+Prison, The Fleet, 25
+
+— King’s Bench, 74, 75
+
+— Marshalsea, 73
+
+Procter, Miss Adelaide, 97
+
+Pubsey & Co., 69
+
+Pump Court, Temple, 22
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+QUARTERMAINE’S Ship Tavern, 101
+
+Queen Square, 53
+
+Quilp’s House, 33
+
+— Wharf, 33
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+RAILWAY Street, Chatham, 86
+
+Red Lion, The, 70, 80
+
+Residence of Brownlow, Mr., 3
+
+— Dickens, 46, 48, 55, 87, 99
+
+— Dombey, Mr., 58, 59
+
+— Gordon, Lord G., 60
+
+— Jellyby, Mrs., 41
+
+— La Creevy, Miss, 6
+
+— Lammles, The, 62
+
+— Mansfield, Lord, 52
+
+— Merdle, Mr., 58
+
+— Micawber, Mr., 157
+
+— Nickleby, Mrs., 152
+
+— Pickwick, Mr., 83
+
+— Snagsby, Mr., 18
+
+— Tulkinghorn, Mr., 14
+
+— Veneerings, 163
+
+Restaurant, Epitaux’s, 81
+
+Richard Doubledick, 98
+
+ROCHESTER, 88
+
+— Bridge, 98
+
+— Bull Hotel, 97
+
+— Cathedral, 92
+
+— College Gate, 94
+
+— Crown Hotel, 98
+
+— Crypts, The, 93
+
+— Eastgate House, 89
+
+— Esplanade, 98
+
+— Minor Canon Row, 92
+
+— Restoration Mouse, 90
+
+— St. Nicholas Church, 94
+
+— Sapsea’s House, 90
+
+— Theatre, 88
+
+— The Vines, 99
+
+— Watts’s Charity, 95
+
+Rogue Riderhood, 163
+
+Rokesmith Wedding, The, 101
+
+Roman Bath, 10
+
+Rosa Budd, 47, 48
+
+Rowland & Son, 40
+
+Rudge, Mrs., 72
+
+Rules of King’s Bench, 74, 75
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+SACKVILLE Street, 62
+
+Saffron Hill, Great, 38, 39
+
+— Little, 38
+
+St. Alphege Church, 101
+
+— Clement Danes, 11
+
+— Dunstan’s Church, 23
+
+— George’s Church, 73
+
+— ,, Obelisk, 77
+
+— James’s Hall, 62
+
+— ,, Park, 80
+
+St. John the Evangelist’s Church, 79
+
+— Martin’s Hall, 9
+
+— Martin’s-le-Grand, 34
+
+— Mary Axe, 69
+
+— Mary-le-Bow Church, 28
+
+— Pancras in the Fields, 161
+
+— Paul’s Churchyard, 27
+
+Sackville Street, 62
+
+Salem House, 157
+
+Sampson Brass, 70
+
+Sam’s Valentine, 68
+
+Sapsea, Mr., 90
+
+Saracen’s Head, The, 36
+
+Satis House, 90
+
+Sawyer’s Lodging, Bob, 74
+
+Seven Poor Travellers, The, 96
+
+“Six Jolly Fellowship Porters The,” 162
+
+Skimpole Family, The, 159
+
+Slammer, Doctor, 98
+
+Smallweed Family, The, 158
+
+Smithfield, 35
+
+Snagsby’s Residence, 18
+
+Snevellicci, Mr., 8
+
+Snow Hill, 37
+
+Sole Street Station, 84
+
+Sol’s Arms, The, 17, 18
+
+Somerleyton Park, 140
+
+Southampton Street, 51
+
+South Kensington Museum, 164
+
+South Square, 49
+
+Southwark Bridge, 34
+
+Spaniards’ Inn, The, 151
+
+Spa Road Station, 31
+
+Spenlow & Jorkins, 27
+
+Spiers & Pond’s Buffet, Messrs, 42
+
+Stagg’s Cellar, 154
+
+— Gardens, 155
+
+Staple Inn, 48
+
+Steerforth, Mrs., 157
+
+Strong’s House, Dr., 158
+
+Stryver’s Chambers, 22
+
+Surrey Theatre, 77
+
+Swan and Sugar Loaf, The, 32
+
+Sweedlepipes, House of, 50
+
+Swiss Châlet, 99
+
+Sydney Carton, 22, 24
+
+Symond’s Inn, 19
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+TATTYCORAM, 55
+
+Tavern, Black Lion, The, 154
+
+Tavern, Boot, The, 55
+
+— Bull and Anchor, The, 49
+
+— Coffee, London, The, 27
+
+— Green Dragon, The, 68
+
+— London, The, 26
+
+— Old George IVth, The, 12
+
+— Old Ship, The, 17
+
+— Quartermaine’s Ship, 101
+
+— “Six Jolly Fellowship Porters”, 162
+
+Tavistock Hotel, The, 7
+
+— House, 56
+
+— Square, 56
+
+Tellson’s Bank, 20
+
+Temple Bar, 20
+
+— Church, 23
+
+— Fountain, 21
+
+— Garden Court, 21
+
+— Gate, 21
+
+— Paper Buildings, 22
+
+— Pump Court, 22
+
+Thames Street, 160
+
+Thavies Inn, 41
+
+Theatre, Astley’s, 78
+
+— Covent Garden, 8
+
+— Her Majesty’s, 80
+
+— Rochester, 88
+
+— Surrey, The, 77
+
+Three Cripples, The, 40
+
+Tigg, Montague, 155
+
+Toby Veck, 23
+
+Todger’s Boarding House, 71
+
+Tom All-Alone’s, 4
+
+Tom Pinch’s Apartments, 155
+
+Toodles, Polly, 155
+
+Took’s Court, 18
+
+Toots’s Excursions, 71
+
+Tox, Miss Lucretia, 156
+
+Traddles, Home of, 49
+
+Traddles’s Lodgings, 158
+
+Travellers, Seven Poor, 95
+
+Trial of Charles Darnay, 36
+
+Trinity House, 34
+
+Tulkinghorn’s Residence, Mr., 14
+
+Tupman’s Retreat, 84
+
+Turveydrop’s Academy, 65
+
+Twemlow, Mr., 163
+
+Twinkleton, Miss, 51
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+VARDEN Family, The, 129
+
+Veneering Family, The, 163
+
+Venus, Mr., 163
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+WALTER Wilding, 54
+
+Warren, The, 131
+
+Waterbrook’s Establishment, 41
+
+Watts, Richard, 95
+
+Wedding of Mr. Snodgrass, 83, 84
+
+Welbeck Street, 60
+
+Weller, Sam, 84, 135
+
+— Tony, 26
+
+Weller’s Rendezvous, 13
+
+Wellington Academy, 152
+
+— Street, Strand, 7
+
+Wemmick’s Castle, 161
+
+— Wedding, 83
+
+Westminster Abbey, 79, 146
+
+White Hart Inn, The, 72
+
+White Horse Cellars, The, 61
+
+Wigmore Street, 59
+
+Wilfer Family, The, 57
+
+  — Residence of, 163
+
+Willet, John, 130
+
+Wimpole Street, 59
+
+Wititterly, Mrs., 153
+
+Wooden Midshipman, The, 69–71
+
+Wood Street, 28
+
+Woods’ Hotel, 47
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+YARMOUTH, 135
+
+Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, 24
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 38652-0.txt or 38652-0.zip *******
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+     "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
+<title>Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut</title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
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+    P {  margin-top: .75em;
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut,
+Illustrated by Helen M. James
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Rambles in Dickens' Land
+
+
+Author: Robert Allbut
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 23, 2012  [eBook #38652]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND***
+</pre>
+<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/fp.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Henley on Thames"
+title=
+"Henley on Thames"
+src="images/fp.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h1><a name="pageiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+iii</span><span class="GutSmall">RAMBLES IN</span><br />
+DICKENS&rsquo; LAND</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center">BY ROBERT ALLBUT</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">WITH
+INTRODUCTION BY</span><br />
+GERALD BRENAN<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY</span><br />
+HELEN M. JAMES</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/logo.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Logo"
+title=
+"Logo"
+src="images/logo.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="GutSmall">LONDON</span><br />
+S. T. FREEMANTLE<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">217 PICCADILLY</span><br />
+1899</p>
+<h2><a name="pageiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+iv</span>NOTICE</h2>
+<p><i>The several Extracts from the Works of Dickens contained in
+this Manual</i>, <i>are used for the better illustration of the
+text</i>, <i>by kind permission of Messrs.</i> <span
+class="smcap">Chapman &amp; Hall</span>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">Printed by <span
+class="smcap">Ballantyne</span>, <span
+class="smcap">Hanson</span> and Co.<br />
+At the Ballantyne Press</p>
+<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+v</span>CONTENTS</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">List of Illustrations</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pagevii">vii</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pageix">ix</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Author&rsquo;s preface</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pagexxv">xxv</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE I</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Charing Cross to Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn
+Fields</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE II</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn to the Mansion
+House</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE III</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Charing Cross to Thavies Inn, Holborn
+Circus</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE IV</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court
+Road</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE V</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Bank of England to her Majesty&rsquo;s
+Theatre</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE VI</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to Chatham, Rochester and
+Gadshill</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page82">82</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>RAMBLE
+VII</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to Canterbury and
+Dover</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE VIII</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to
+Henley-on-Thames</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE IX</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">By Great Eastern Route from London to
+Yarmouth</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE X</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">London to Dorking and
+Portsmouth</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Appendix</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Index</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vii</span>LIST
+OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Henley-on-Thames</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Frontispiece</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>To face page</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Old Roman Bath</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Old Curiosity Shop</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Fountain Court, Temple</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Doorway in Staple Inn</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Children&rsquo;s
+Hospital</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Tavistock House</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Drawing-room, Devonshire
+House</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The &ldquo;Leather Bottle,&rdquo;
+Cobham</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Eastgate House, Rochester</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Restoration House,
+Rochester</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Gadshill Place</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Home of Agnes</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo;
+Chigwell</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The &ldquo;Great White Horse,&rdquo;
+Ipswich</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Dickens&rsquo; Birthplace</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">&ldquo;The Spaniards,&rdquo; Hampstead
+Heath</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+ix</span>INTRODUCTION</h2>
+<p>It is one of the magic legacies left by the great romancers,
+that the scenes and characters which they described should
+possess for most of us an air of reality, so convincing as
+sometimes to put staid history to the blush.&nbsp; The
+novelist&rsquo;s ideals become actual to the popular mind; while
+commonplace truth hides itself among its dry-as-dust records,
+until some curious antiquary or insistent pedant drags it forth
+to make a nine days&rsquo; wonder.&nbsp; We sigh over
+&ldquo;Juliet&rsquo;s Tomb&rdquo; in spite of the precisians, sup
+in the inn kitchen at Pennaflor with Gil Blas at our elbow, and
+shudder through the small hours outside the haunted House of the
+Black Cat in Quaker Philadelphia.&nbsp; At Tarascon they show you
+Tartarin&rsquo;s oriental garden; and you must hide the
+irrepressible smile, for Tartarin is painfully real to these good
+cap-shooters.&nbsp; The other day an illustrated magazine
+published pictures of Alexander Selkirk&rsquo;s birthplace, and
+labelled them &ldquo;The Home of Robinson Crusoe.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The editor who chose that caption was still under the spell of
+Defoe.&nbsp; To him, as to the vast majority, Crusoe the
+imaginary seemed vividly real, while the flesh-and-blood Selkirk
+was but a name.&nbsp; And <a name="pagex"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. x</span>if you have that catholic sympathy
+which is the true test of the perfect lover of romance, read
+&ldquo;David Copperfield&rdquo; once again, and then, by way of
+experiment, spend an afternoon in Canterbury.&nbsp; You will find
+yourself expecting at one moment to see Mr. Micawber step
+jauntily out of the Queen&rsquo;s Head Inn, at another to catch a
+glimpse of the red-haired Heep slinking along North Lane to his
+&ldquo;&rsquo;umble dwelling.&rdquo;&nbsp; You will probably meet
+a dozen buxom &ldquo;eldest Miss Larkinses,&rdquo; and obnoxious
+butcher-boys&mdash;perhaps even a sweet Agnes Wickfield, or a
+Miss Betsy Trotwood driving in from Dover.&nbsp; And, above all,
+you will certainly enjoy yourself, and thank your gods for
+Charles Dickens.</p>
+<p>Mr. Would-be Wiseman may affect to sneer at our pilgrimages to
+this and other places connected with the imaginary names of
+fiction; but he must recognise the far-reaching influence for
+good exercised by symbols and associations over the human
+mind.&nbsp; The sight of a loved home after many years&mdash;the
+flutter of one&rsquo;s country&rsquo;s flag in foreign
+lands&mdash;these things touch keenly our better nature.&nbsp; In
+a like manner is the thoughtful man impressed when he treads a
+pathway hallowed by the writings of some favourite poet or
+romancer.&nbsp; The moral lesson which the author intended to
+convey, his insight into character or loving eye for
+Nature&rsquo;s beauties, and many exquisite passages from his
+books appeal to us all the more, when we recall them in the very
+rooms where they were written&mdash;<a name="pagexi"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xi</span>among the gloomy streets or breezy
+hills which he has filled with his inventions.&nbsp; Says
+Washington Irving in his essay on Stratford: &ldquo;I could not
+but reflect on the singular gift of the poet; to be able thus to
+spread the magic of his mind over the very face of Nature; to
+give to things and places a charm and character not their own,
+and to turn this &lsquo;working-day&rsquo; world into a perfect
+fairyland.&nbsp; He is indeed the true enchanter, whose spell
+operates, not upon the senses, but upon the imagination and the
+heart.&nbsp; Under the wizard influence of Shakespeare I had been
+walking all day in a complete delusion. . . .&nbsp; I had been
+surrounded with fancied beings; with mere airy nothings conjured
+up by poetic power; yet which, to me, had all the charm of
+reality.&nbsp; I had heard Jaques soliloquise beneath his oak;
+had beheld the fair Rosalind and her companion adventuring
+through the woodlands; and, above all, had been once more present
+in spirit with fat Jack Falstaff and his contemporaries, from the
+august Justice Shallow down to the gentle Master Slender and the
+sweet Anne Page.&nbsp; Ten thousand honours and blessings on the
+bard who has thus gilded the dull realities of life with innocent
+illusions.&rdquo;&nbsp; Wherefore, in spite of the sneers of
+Master Would-be Wiseman, let us continue to make these pleasant
+pilgrimages; not alone for our own satisfaction and betterment,
+but also in memory of those who have opened before us so many
+delectable lands of fancy, and given us so many agreeable
+companions of the road.</p>
+<p><a name="pagexii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xii</span>This
+volume, then, is the pilgrim&rsquo;s guide to Dickens&rsquo;
+Land&mdash;the loving topography of that fertile and very
+populous region.&nbsp; No far away foreign country is
+Dickens&rsquo; Land.&nbsp; It lies at our doors; we may explore
+it when we choose, with never a passport to purchase nor a Custom
+House to fear.&nbsp; The sojourner in London can scarce look from
+his windows without beholding scores of its interesting
+places.&nbsp; To parody that passage which describes Mr.
+Pickwick&rsquo;s outlook into Goswell Street&mdash;Dickens&rsquo;
+Land is at our feet; Dickens&rsquo; Land is on our right hand as
+far as the eye can reach; Dickens&rsquo; Land extends on our
+left, and the opposite side of Dickens&rsquo; Land is over the
+way.&nbsp; Nor do the bounds of this genial territory confine
+themselves to London alone.&nbsp; Outlying portions spread north
+and south, east and west, over England.&nbsp; There is even, as
+Sala showed, a Dickens&rsquo; quarter in Paris; and we have
+unexpectedly encountered small colonies of Dickens&rsquo; Land
+across the wide Atlantic.&nbsp; But the best of it lies close to
+the great heart of the world&mdash;in London, or in the counties
+thereabout; and if &ldquo;Rambles in Dickens&rsquo; Land&rdquo;
+succeeds in guiding its readers with pleasure and profit over
+this storied ground, it will have faithfully fulfilled its
+mission.</p>
+<p>Trouble has not been spared to make this topography accurate
+as well as entertaining.&nbsp; Mr. Weller the younger, with all
+his &ldquo;extensive and peculiar&rdquo; knowledge of
+London&mdash;Mr. Weller the elder and his brothers of the whip,
+with <i>their</i> <a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xiii</span>knowledge of post-roads and coaching inns, could
+hardly have identified the various localities more clearly than
+the compiler has done.&nbsp; Wherever doubts and disputes
+arise&mdash;as in regard to the site of the &ldquo;Old Curiosity
+Shop&rdquo;&mdash;all sides of the case are given, and the reader
+is asked to sum up the arguments and judge for himself.&nbsp; In
+nearly every instance a quotation is offered from the author, by
+means of which the pilgrim is enabled to refresh his memory and
+bring his own recollections of the book to bear upon the question
+of the site.&nbsp; These quotations will be found to act
+admirably as aids to memory, and to obviate the necessity of
+carrying a whole library of Dickens about on one&rsquo;s
+rambles.&nbsp; Take, for example, the excerpts from &ldquo;David
+Copperfield&rdquo; in connection with the visit to Dover.&nbsp;
+The facetious answers of the boatmen to David when, sitting
+ragged and forlorn in the Dover Market Place, he inquires for his
+aunt&rsquo;s house, bring back at a single touch the whole sad
+story of the boy&rsquo;s tramp from London to the coast.&nbsp; It
+does not require much imagination to picture him sitting there
+&ldquo;on the step of an empty shop,&rdquo; with his weary,
+pinched face and his &ldquo;dusty sunburnt, half-clothed
+figure,&rdquo; while the sea-faring folk (lineal forbears of
+those who frequent the place to-day) made mock of him with their
+clumsy japes, until at length happened by the friendly
+fly-driver, who showed him how to reach the residence of the old
+lady who &ldquo;carries a bag&mdash;bag with a good deal of room
+in it&mdash;is gruffish, and comes <a name="pagexiv"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xiv</span>down upon you, sharp.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+It is easy, too, with the help of our guide, to follow the
+shivering child along the cliffs to Miss
+Trotwood&rsquo;s&mdash;nay, to identify the &ldquo;very neat
+little cottage, with cheerful bow-windows,&rdquo; where that good
+soul looked after Mr. Dick, and defended her &ldquo;immaculate
+grass-plot&rdquo; against marauding donkeys.&nbsp; It is this
+present writer&rsquo;s privilege to know a charming elderly lady
+who boasts of Dover as her birthplace, and who, when she has
+exhausted the other lions of that town, is accustomed to close
+her remarks with the statement that she &ldquo;lived for years
+within a stone&rsquo;s-throw of Miss Betsy Trotwood&rsquo;s
+cottage.&rdquo;&nbsp; Occasionally the Superior Person (who,
+alas, is rarely absent nowadays!) points out with a smile of
+tolerance that neither Miss Trotwood nor yet her house ever
+existed save in the novelist&rsquo;s brain.&nbsp; Whereupon this
+charming old lady shakes her finger testily at the transgressor,
+and exclaims, &ldquo;It is quite evident that you have never
+lived in Dover.&nbsp; Miss Betsy Trotwood a myth, indeed!&nbsp;
+Let me tell you that my own mother knew the dear woman
+well&mdash;yes, and that delightful Mr. Dick too; and she
+remembered seeing Mr. Dickens drive up in a fly from the railway
+station to visit them.&nbsp; Of course their names were not
+&lsquo;Trotwood&rsquo; and &lsquo;Dick&rsquo; at all; it would
+never have done for Mr. Dickens to put them in his book under the
+real names, particularly as Mr. Dick was related to many good
+families in that part of Kent.&nbsp; I have even a dim
+recollection of seeing Miss Trotwood being wheeled about in a
+bath-chair when <a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xv</span>I was a very little girl and she a very old woman.&nbsp;
+Myth, indeed!&nbsp; Why, there are old men in Dover now who were
+warned off the grass-plot by David Copperfield&rsquo;s aunt when
+they were donkey-boys.&rdquo;&nbsp; The animation of the speaker
+shows that she believes everything she says.&nbsp; Perhaps a lady
+possessing the characteristics of Miss Betsy did once upon a time
+inhabit the cottage in Dover.&nbsp; Perhaps there was a real Mr.
+Dick.&nbsp; Otherwise these recollections are but another example
+of that hypnotism exercised over posterity by the great
+romancers, to which allusion has already been made.</p>
+<p>Again, the many references and the quotations made from
+several of Dickens&rsquo; works, illustrative of the Temple and
+the Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn quarter&mdash;(pages 2 to 25 in the
+ensuing &ldquo;Rambles&rdquo;)&mdash;are certain to be
+appreciated by the Rambler.&nbsp; With their assistance he can
+summon back to his memory the tender love story of Ruth Pinch,
+and so dream away a happy hour in peaceful Fountain Court; follow
+in fancy Maypole Hugh and the illustrious Captain Sim Tappertit
+as they ascended the stairs to Sir John Chester&rsquo;s chambers
+in Paper Buildings; stroll thoughtfully along King&rsquo;s Bench
+Walk with the spirit of Sidney Carton; and, in the purlieus of
+Chancery Lane, review the legal abuses of the past&mdash;(perhaps
+even some of those that survive to-day)&mdash;reflect upon
+&ldquo;Jarndyce and Jarndyce,&rdquo; or upon the banished
+sponging-houses of this district, and once <a
+name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xvi</span>more admit
+that Dickens the great novelist was also Dickens the great
+reformer.</p>
+<p>An important feature of &ldquo;Rambles in Dickens&rsquo;
+Land&rdquo; will be found in the exhaustive references to
+Dickens&rsquo; own haunts and homes, and the haunts and homes of
+many of his relatives and friends.&nbsp; Naturally, these are in
+numerous cases intimately bound up with the creations of his
+novels, for Dickens did not &ldquo;write out of an
+inkwell,&rdquo; but looked for inspiration to real life and real
+scenes.&nbsp; At Portsmouth our volume guides you to the house
+where he was born, and to the old church register wherein the
+christening is entered of&mdash;(how strangely the full name
+sounds!)&mdash;&ldquo;Charles John Huffham Dickens.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+But the same venerable seaport is thronged with memories of
+Nicholas Nickleby and his player-friends, Miss Snevellicci, the
+Crummles family, poor Smike and the rest.&nbsp; It is interesting
+to remember that an American writer once suggested the
+possibility that Dickens had obtained Nickleby&rsquo;s
+experiences as an actor from personal adventures with a
+travelling &ldquo;troupe&rdquo; during his youth.&nbsp; This is
+not impossible, although Forster makes no mention of such an
+adventure; the early years of Dickens are by no means fully
+accounted for, and it is certain that the stage had always a
+great fascination for him.</p>
+<p>Back of old Hungerford Stairs, behind what is now Charing
+Cross Station, you may visit the spot where the two
+boys&mdash;the real and the imaginary&mdash;Charles Dickens and
+David Copperfield <a name="pagexvii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xvii</span>spent so many hours while working for a scant pittance
+in that &ldquo;crazy old house with a wharf of its own abutting
+on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when it was
+out, and literally overrun with rats.&rdquo;&nbsp; Gadshill,
+where Dickens lived and died, is on the very borders of historic
+Rochester, teeming with reminders of &ldquo;Edwin Drood,&rdquo;
+not to say of the genial Pickwick and his companions.&nbsp; Of
+Furnival&rsquo;s Inn where &ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; was written,
+and where its author spent the first months of his married life,
+only the site remains; but these &ldquo;Rambles&rdquo; will help
+you to find all, or nearly all, of his other homes, even to that
+last home of all&mdash;the grave in Westminster Abbey, in which
+he was laid on the 14th of June 1870.&nbsp; His friends&rsquo;
+houses too, and the scores of spots noteworthy by reason of
+association with him personally, you will be given an opportunity
+of visiting if you follow this careful <i>cicerone</i>.&nbsp; At
+No. 58 Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields still stands Forster&rsquo;s
+house, where, in 1844, Dickens read &ldquo;The Chimes&rdquo; to
+Carlyle, Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and others, and which is also
+utilised in &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; to supply a model for the
+dwelling-place of Mr. Tulkinghorn.&nbsp; The office of
+<i>Household Words</i>, founded by Dickens, is now part of the
+Gaiety Theatre.&nbsp; The old taverns about Hampstead, whither he
+loved to resort for a friendly flagon &ldquo;and a red-hot
+chop,&rdquo; are much as they were in the novelist&rsquo;s day,
+save in one regrettable instance where the proprietor has <a
+name="pagexviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xviii</span>preferred, in order to cater to an unappreciative
+class, to disfigure his inn into a mere modern public-house of
+the conventional type, such that Dickens, who loved the place
+when it was old-fashioned and comfortable, would utterly disown
+now.&nbsp; The ancient &ldquo;Spaniards,&rdquo; however, is much
+the same as it was in the days of the Gordon riots, when the then
+host of the quaint little tavern saved Lord Mansfield&rsquo;s
+country house at Caen Wood by allowing the rioters to devastate
+his cellars, while he privily sent for the Guards.&nbsp; The
+reckless waste of liquor on that occasion is said to have
+suggested to Dickens the scene in &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo;
+where John Willet watches the sack of his beloved
+&ldquo;Maypole&rdquo; and sees his cellars drained of their best,
+as he lies bound and helpless in the bar.&nbsp; That the novelist
+frequently visited the &ldquo;Spaniards,&rdquo; the old records
+of the house can show; and in &ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; he makes it
+the scene of a memorable tea-party, attended by Mrs. Bardell,
+just before those &ldquo;sharp practitioners,&rdquo; Dodson and
+Fogg, caused the injured lady&rsquo;s arrest.&nbsp; The
+&ldquo;Bull and Bush,&rdquo; another old Hampstead inn much
+frequented of Dickens, also exists unharmed by the
+&ldquo;renovator.&rdquo;&nbsp; And while we are upon the subject
+of inns known to our author, let us not forget the
+&ldquo;Maypole&rdquo; itself, here shown to be the
+&ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head&rdquo; at Chigwell.&nbsp; Dickens was in
+ecstasies over the &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head&rdquo; and the
+surrounding neighbourhood, when a chance visit disclosed to him
+their <a name="pagexix"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xix</span>attractions; and the letters which he wrote to his
+friends at this period are full of Chigwell and its picturesque
+hostelry.&nbsp; Little wonder, therefore, that he afterwards made
+them famous in &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge.&rdquo;&nbsp; The pilgrim
+will not be disappointed in the &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head&rdquo;
+of to-day, if he accepts the good advice offered by the compiler
+of these &ldquo;Rambles,&rdquo; <i>i.e.</i> to take his ideal of
+the place from Dickens&rsquo; own description rather than from
+the elaborate drawing of Cattermole.&nbsp; He may perhaps notice
+that in &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge&rdquo; no hint is conveyed of the
+close proximity of Chigwell church, which is simply across the
+road.&nbsp; Doubtless this is a sign of the novelist&rsquo;s
+artistic sense.&nbsp; To have his &ldquo;Maypole&rdquo; windows
+looking directly into the graveyard would have detracted from
+that air of warmth and conviviality with which he wished to endow
+his rare old inn.&nbsp; In most other respects the description
+exactly fits the &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head&rdquo; as it must have
+been in &ldquo;No Popery&rdquo; times&mdash;as it is with little
+alteration to-day.&nbsp; The trim green sward at the
+rear&mdash;once evidently the bowling-green&mdash;is a famous
+resting-place in summer; and in one of the small arbours Dickens
+is said to have written during his stay here.&nbsp; The village,
+although showing signs of the approach of that fell barbarian the
+Essex builder, is still sufficiently picturesque and old-world to
+keep one&rsquo;s illusions alive.&nbsp; There is a grammar school
+at Chigwell, the boys of which are learned in neighbouring
+Dickens&rsquo; lore.&nbsp; If you are <a name="pagexx"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xx</span>credulous&mdash;as it becomes a
+pilgrim to be&mdash;these grammarians will show you John
+Willet&rsquo;s tomb in the churchyard, and Dolly Varden&rsquo;s
+path with the real Warren, on the skirts of Hainault Forest, at
+the farther end of it.&nbsp; Both in Chigwell and Chigwell Row
+some village worthies are still to be met with who have conversed
+with Charles Dickens and the kindred spirits that came hither in
+his company.&nbsp; At the &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; if Mr.
+Willet&rsquo;s successor be agreeable, one may lunch or sup in
+the Dickens&rsquo; Room, also held to have been the chamber in
+which Mr. Haredale and the elder Chester held their memorable
+interview.</p>
+<p>Some other inns to which Dickens is known to have resorted
+are: the &ldquo;Bull&rdquo; at Rochester, the &ldquo;Leather
+Bottle&rdquo; at Cobham, and the &ldquo;Great White Horse&rdquo;
+at Ipswich&mdash;all with Pickwickian associations; the
+&ldquo;Old Cheshire Cheese&rdquo; in Fleet Street, and the
+&ldquo;George and Dragon&rdquo; at Canterbury.&nbsp; To many
+minor taverns in London he was also a frequent visitor, for he
+sought his characters in the market-place rather than in the
+study.&nbsp; His signature, with the familiar flourish
+underneath, is treasured in hotel registers not a few, and it is
+esteemed a high honour to be permitted to slumber in the
+&ldquo;Dickens&rsquo; Room.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>To all and each of these places &ldquo;Rambles in
+Dickens&rsquo; Land&rdquo; leads the way, if the reader chooses
+to follow.&nbsp; A notable advantage of these rambles is the ease
+with which they may be undertaken.&nbsp; An ordinary healthy man
+or woman may set forth <a name="pagexxi"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xxi</span>without apprehension in the
+author&rsquo;s footsteps from the beginning to the end of any
+particular journey which he describes, and even the invalid may
+saunter through a &ldquo;Ramble&rdquo; without fatigue.&nbsp;
+Conveyances are only needed to bring the pilgrim to the
+starting-point of the voyage, and in several instances even these
+aids to locomotion may be dispensed with altogether when the
+sightseer is one after Dickens&rsquo; own heart&mdash;a sturdy
+pedestrian.&nbsp; By pursuing the routes indicated, there is no
+reason why a Grand Tour of Dickens&rsquo; Land should not be made
+by easy stages and at slight cost.&nbsp; Or the pilgrim may pick
+out some particular trip, when leisure and chance carry him in
+that direction.&nbsp; The volume is in truth a serviceable
+guide-book, leading its clients by the best ways, and even
+informing them where, when sight-seeing is over, a place may be
+found for rest, refreshment, and reflection.&nbsp; And it is
+happier than most guide-books in that it is never called upon to
+describe the stupid and uninteresting, which have no existence in
+Dickens&rsquo; Land.</p>
+<p>Into Dickens&rsquo; Land, therefore, my masters, an you will
+and when you will!&nbsp; The high-roads thither are always open,
+the lanes and by-paths are free for us to tread.&nbsp; He that
+found out this rare world has made it fully ours.&nbsp; Let us
+visit our inheritance, or revisit it, if that be the better
+word.&nbsp; Let us make real the scenes we have read of and
+dreamt of&mdash;peopling them with the folk of Dickens, so that
+familiar faces shall look upon us <a name="pagexxii"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xxii</span>from familiar windows, familiar
+voices greet us as we pass.&nbsp; Shall we travel abroad in the
+fashion of the corresponding committee of the Pickwick
+Club?&nbsp; Then here is this book, with a wealth of shrewd
+information between its covers, ready to be our own particular
+Samuel Weller&mdash;to wear our livery, whether of sadness or of
+joy&mdash;to point out to us the sights and the notabilities, to
+be garrulous when we look for gossip, and silent when our mood is
+for silence&mdash;to act, in short, as that useful individual
+whom we all &ldquo;rayther want,&rdquo; &ldquo;somebody to look
+arter us when we goes out a-wisitin&rsquo;.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Where, if you please, shall we &ldquo;wisit&rdquo;
+first?&nbsp; It is hard to choose, since there is so much to
+choose from.&nbsp; We may ramble about London town, where, like
+Mr. Weller, our guide is &ldquo;werry much at home.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+If so, we are sure to encounter a host of old cronies.&nbsp;
+Perhaps we shall see the great Buzfuz entering court, all in his
+wig and silk, nodding with lofty condescension to his struggling
+brother, Mr. T. Traddles, which latter is bringing &ldquo;Sophy
+and the girls&rdquo; to set Gray&rsquo;s Inn a-blooming.&nbsp; Or
+Tom Pinch going towards Fountain Court to meet the waiting
+Ruth.&nbsp; Or David Copperfield joyously ushering J. Steerforth
+into his rooms in the Adelphi.&nbsp; Or Captain Cuttle steering
+for the sign of the &ldquo;Wooden Midshipman,&rdquo; which he may
+eventually find (and make a note of) at its new moorings in the
+Minories.&nbsp; Or Dick Swiveller, poor soul, loafing to his
+dingy lodgings.&nbsp; Or that precious pair, Bob Sawyer and
+Benjamin Allen, startling <a name="pagexxiii"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xxiii</span>the sullen repose of Lant Street
+with bacchanalian revelry.</p>
+<p>And, if the London Dickens&rsquo; Land palls, doth not this
+most inviting country stretch to all points of the compass?&nbsp;
+Northward goes yonder well-appointed coach, whereof the driver
+has just been escorted from a certain public-house in Portugal
+Street by a mottle-faced man, in company with two or three other
+persons of stout and weather-beaten aspect&mdash;the driver
+himself being stouter and more weather-beaten than all.&nbsp; Let
+us take the box-seat by his side, and lead him on to talk of
+&ldquo;shepherds in wolves&rsquo; clothing,&rdquo; until
+presently he tools us into Ipswich, pulling up under the sign of
+that &ldquo;rapacious animal&rdquo; the Great White Horse.&nbsp;
+In Ipswich we may catch a glimpse of a mulberry-coloured livery
+slinking by St. Clement&rsquo;s Church, and guess therefrom that
+one Alfred Jingle is here at his old game of laying siege to the
+hearts of susceptible females with money.&nbsp; Here, too, behind
+that green gate in Angel Lane, resides the pretty housemaid soon
+to become Mrs. Sam Weller.&nbsp; But we must not linger in
+Ipswich.&nbsp; Yarmouth lies before us, with its phantom
+boat-house still upturned on the waste places towards the sea,
+with Little Em&rsquo;ly, and the Peggottys, and with Mr. Barkis
+waiting in the Market Place to jog us out to sleepy
+&ldquo;Blunderstone.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Back again in London, there is another coach-of-fancy prepared
+to take us into Kent, from the yard of the Golden Cross.&nbsp;
+Four gentlemen&mdash;one <a name="pagexxiv"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xxiv</span>a beaming, spectacled person in
+drab shorts&mdash;are outside passengers for Rochester.&nbsp; And
+see, here is the ubiquitous Jingle again, clambering to the roof
+with all his worldly goods wrapped up in a brown paper
+parcel.&nbsp; &ldquo;Heads&mdash;heads&mdash;take care of your
+heads,&rdquo; he cries, as we rumble under the old archway; and
+then, hey! for hopfields and cherry orchards, for &ldquo;mouldy
+old cathedrals&rdquo; in &ldquo;Cloisterham&rdquo; or Canterbury,
+for jolly Kentish yeomen and bright-eyed maids of Kent. . .
+.&nbsp; Who was that wan-faced, coatless urchin we passed just
+now in a whirl of chalky dust?&nbsp; His name is Copperfield, and
+he is on his way to Dover.&nbsp; And is not that Mr. Wardle
+driving his laughing women-folk to the review?&nbsp; And again,
+yonder on the brown common, by the Punch and Judy show, there is
+a grey old man, pillowing in his loving arms a little blue-eyed
+girl.&nbsp; These, too, we know; and our hearts go out to them,
+for who of us is there that has not&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;. . . with Nell, in Kentish meadows,<br />
+Wandered, and lost his way&rdquo;?</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Of introduction there is no more to be said.&nbsp; The book
+itself lies open before you; and at your own sweet will you may
+ramble with it, high and low, through all the land of
+Dickens.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">G. B.</p>
+<h2><a name="pagexxv"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xxv</span>PREFACE</h2>
+<p>The great majority of English readers&mdash;on both sides of
+the Atlantic&mdash;claim personal acquaintance with
+&ldquo;Samivel&rdquo; Weller, Mark Tapley, Oliver Twist, and many
+more besides: the old companions of our schoolboy days.&nbsp; We
+cherish pleasant remembrance of the familiar &ldquo;green
+leaves&rdquo; of Dombey, David Copperfield, and the rest, as they
+first afforded us their monthly quota of interest and enjoyment;
+and have always maintained intimate relations with Captain
+Cuttle, Tom Pinch, Mr. Peggotty, and the more recent <i>dramatis
+person&aelig;</i> of the works of Dickens.&nbsp; We sympathise
+with Florence, Agnes, and Esther as with sisters, and keep
+corners of our hearts sacred to the memory of Little Nell, Paul
+Dombey, and the child-wife Dora.</p>
+<p>The creations of &ldquo;bonnie Prince Charlie&rdquo; have thus
+become veritable &ldquo;household words&rdquo;; part and parcel
+of our home associations, instinct with personality and
+life.&nbsp; We never think of them as the airy nothings of
+imaginative fiction, but regard them as familiar friends, having
+&ldquo;a local habitation and a name&rdquo; amongst us; with
+whose cheerful acquaintance we could ill afford to part, and who
+bear us kindly company on the hot and dusty highway of our daily
+lives.</p>
+<p>Charles Dickens was essentially a Londoner, always having a
+fond regard for the highways and by-ways of this great
+Metropolis, and confessedly deriving his inspiration from the
+varied phases of Town life and Society.&nbsp; We accordingly find
+that the main incidents and characters of his novels have here
+their <i>mise en sc&egrave;ne</i>.</p>
+<p>In homage to the genius of his favourite Author, the <a
+name="pagexxvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xxvi</span>writer of
+the following pages has endeavoured to localise many of the more
+familiar associations of the great Novelist with as much
+exactitude as may be possible; but it must be remembered that
+London has undergone considerable alteration and reconstruction,
+during the last fifty years.</p>
+<p>Thus far reads the original Preface to this Work, as written
+thirteen years since; the first (and smaller) edition of which
+was published in 1886, under the title of <i>Rambles in London
+with Charles Dickens</i>.&nbsp; The author now begs to thankfully
+acknowledge its favourable reception, generously accorded by the
+Press in particular, and the reading-world in general.</p>
+<p>The present arrangement of the book includes some important
+additions as well as considerable revision, the latter being
+rendered necessary by the <i>disappearance</i> of many houses and
+buildings in the course of intervening years, and the steady
+progress of Metropolitan improvements.&nbsp; Thus it comes to
+pass that only the memory of what has been remains, in regard to
+many of these Dickensian localities and landmarks; and it has
+been the object of the author (1899) to indicate the former
+whereabouts of these old places, as heretofore existent.&nbsp;
+Especially in the Strand and neighbourhood (Ramble I.), as well
+as in Chancery Lane and Holborn (Rambles II. and IV.), many
+alterations have taken place, and another London is springing up
+around a younger generation, not known to Dickens.&nbsp; Our
+Author says (in <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>), &ldquo;Change begets
+change; nothing propagates so fast&rdquo;: and the London of
+to-day, and the activities of our Metropolitan County Council, at
+the close of this nineteenth century, afford striking testimony
+to the truth of the aphorism, &ldquo;The old order changeth,
+giving place to new.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The <i>Pall Mall Magazine</i>, July 1896, contains a
+contribution by Mr. C. Dickens, junr.&mdash;&ldquo;Notes on Some
+Dickens&rsquo; Places and People&rdquo;&mdash;in which he
+deprecates the endeavours of those inquirers who have attempted
+any localisation of these places.&nbsp; &ldquo;It is true,&rdquo;
+says he, &ldquo;that <a name="pagexxvii"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xxvii</span>many of the places described in
+Charles Dickens&rsquo;s books were suggested by real localities
+or buildings, but the more the question comes to be examined, the
+more clear it is that all that was done with the prototype, was
+to use it as a painter or a sculptor uses a sketch, and that,
+under the hand of the writer and in the natural process of
+evolution, it has grown, in almost every case, into a finished
+picture, with few, if any, very salient points about it to render
+its origin unmistakable.&rdquo;&nbsp; He also quotes, with
+emphatic approval, from a review of Mr. P. Fitzgerald&rsquo;s
+<i>Bozland</i>, then recently published: &ldquo;Dickens, like
+Turner in the sister art of painting&mdash;like all real artists
+indeed&mdash;used nature, no doubt, but used it as being his
+slave and in no wise his master.&nbsp; He was not content simply
+to reproduce the places, persons, things that he had seen and
+known.&nbsp; He passed them through the crucible of his
+imagination, fused them, re-combined their elements, changed them
+into something richer and rarer, gave them forth as products of
+his art.&nbsp; Are we not doing him some disservice when we try
+to reverse the process?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;With these words I
+most cordially agree.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Charles Dickens
+the Younger</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The author of this book would submit that the attempt to
+preserve the memory of these localities in association with their
+original use by &ldquo;the Master,&rdquo; does <i>not</i>
+&ldquo;reverse the process&rdquo;; but, rightly considered, may
+help the reader to a better comprehension of the genius and
+method of Dickens.&nbsp; The dictum of the Rev. W. J. Dawson,
+given a few years since in <i>The Young Woman</i> (referring to a
+previous edition of this Work), is worth consideration:
+&ldquo;The book casts a new light upon Dickens&rsquo;s methods of
+work, and shows us how little he left to invention, and how much
+he owed to exact observation.&rdquo;&nbsp; And in this connection
+there may be quoted the opinion of Sir Walter Besant, who
+published an appreciative article in <i>The Queen</i>, 9th May
+1896, anent these selfsame &ldquo;Rambles,&rdquo; which thus
+concludes: &ldquo;With this information in your hand, you can go
+down the Strand and view its streets <a
+name="pagexxviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xxviii</span>from
+north to south with increased intelligence and interest.&nbsp; I
+am not certain whether peopling a street with creations of the
+imagination is not more useful&mdash;it is certainly more
+interesting&mdash;than with the real figures of the stony-hearted
+past.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The writer, therefore, still believes that such a Dickensian
+Directory as is now prepared will be found a valuable practical
+guide for those who may desire to visit the haunts and homes of
+these old friends, whose memory we cannot &ldquo;willingly let
+die;&rdquo; and to recall the many interests connected with them
+by the way.</p>
+<p>Though not professing to be infallible, he begs to assure
+those whom it may concern that his information&mdash;gleaned from
+many sources&mdash;has been collected <i>con amore</i> with
+carefulness and caution; and he ventures to hope that his book
+may be of service to many Metropolitan visitors, as indicating
+(previous to the coming time when the New Zealander shall
+meditate over the ruins of London) some few pleasant
+&ldquo;Rambles in Dickens&rsquo; Land.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">R. A.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>September</i> 20,
+1899.</p>
+<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>RAMBLE
+I<br />
+<i>Charing Cross to Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">The Golden Cross; Associations with Pickwick
+and Copperfield&mdash;Craven Street; Residence of Mr.
+Brownlow&mdash;Charing Cross Terminus&mdash;Hungerford Stairs and
+Market; Lamert&rsquo;s Blacking Manufactory; Micawber&rsquo;s
+Lodgings; Mr. Dick&rsquo;s Bedroom&mdash;No. 3 Chandos Street;
+Blacking Warehouse&mdash;Bedfordbury; &ldquo;Tom
+All-Alone&rsquo;s&rdquo;&mdash;Buckingham Street;
+Copperfield&rsquo;s Chambers&mdash;The Adelphi Arches&mdash;The
+Adelphi Hotel; Snodgrass and Emily Wardle&mdash;&ldquo;The
+Fox-under-the-Hill&rdquo;; Martin Chuzzlewit and Mark
+Tapley&mdash;The Residence of Miss La Creevy&mdash;Offices of
+<i>Household Words</i> and <i>All the Year Round</i>&mdash;Covent
+Garden Market; Hummums and Tavistock Hotels, associated with
+&ldquo;Great Expectations,&rdquo; etc.&mdash;Bow Street&mdash;Old
+Bow Street Police Court; &ldquo;The Artful
+Dodger&rdquo;&mdash;Covent Garden Theatre&mdash;Broad Court; Mr.
+Snevellicci&mdash;St. Martin&rsquo;s Hall; Dickens&rsquo;s First
+London Readings&mdash;Russell Court; Nemo&rsquo;s Burial
+Place&mdash;Clare Court; Copperfield&rsquo;s
+Dining-Rooms&mdash;Old Roman Bath; Mrs. Lirriper&rsquo;s
+Lodgings&mdash;St. Clement Danes&mdash;Portsmouth Street;
+&ldquo;The Old Curiosity Shop&rdquo;&mdash;The Old George the
+Fourth; &ldquo;The Magpie and Stump&rdquo;&mdash;Portugal Street;
+&ldquo;The Horse and Groom&rdquo;; Mr. Tony Weller and his Legal
+Adviser&mdash;Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields; Mr. John
+Forster&rsquo;s House; Residence of Mr. Tulkinghorn.</p>
+<p>Starting from <span class="smcap">Charing Cross Post
+Office</span> as a convenient centre, and taking an eastward
+course up the Strand, we immediately reach, on the left-hand
+(north) side&mdash;a few doors from the Post Office&mdash;<b>The
+Golden Cross Hotel</b>.&nbsp; Sixty years since this <a
+name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>establishment
+was one of the principal Coaching Houses of the Metropolis.&nbsp;
+It was the starting-point of the Rochester Coach, by which, on
+May 13, 1827, <i>Mr. Pickwick</i> and his friends commenced their
+travels.&nbsp; Driving by cab from the vicinity of that
+gentleman&rsquo;s residence in Goswell Street, here it was that
+the pugnacious cabman, having mistaken the purpose of Mr.
+P.&rsquo;s note-book, committed assault and battery upon the four
+Pickwickians, &ldquo;sparring away like clockwork,&rdquo; from
+which unexpected attack they were rescued by the redoubtable
+<i>Mr. Alfred Jingle</i>.&nbsp; In those days there was an arched
+entrance leading from the Strand beneath the front of the hotel
+to the coach-yard behind.&nbsp; Hence Mr. Jingle&rsquo;s warning
+to his new acquaintances&mdash;&ldquo;Heads, heads; take care of
+your heads!&rdquo; which recommendation was followed by the first
+recorded anecdote as given by that loquacious
+pretender&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Terrible place&mdash;dangerous
+work&mdash;other day&mdash;five children&mdash;mother&mdash;tall
+lady, eating sandwiches&mdash;forgot the
+arch&mdash;crash&mdash;knock&mdash;children look
+round&mdash;mother&rsquo;s head off&mdash;sandwich in her
+hand&mdash;no mouth to put it in&mdash;head of a family
+off&mdash;shocking&mdash;shocking.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This coach-yard and its entrance existed until the days of
+<i>Copperfield</i>, who came to <span class="smcap">The Golden
+Cross</span> in the nineteenth chapter of his history, having
+just finished his education at Dr. Strong&rsquo;s.&nbsp; He
+arrived &ldquo;outside the Canterbury Coach,&rdquo; and here met
+<i>Steerforth</i>, his former schoolboy patron, who speedily
+arranged for his transference from No. 44, &ldquo;a little loft
+over a stable,&rdquo; to No. 72, a comfortable bedroom next his
+own.&nbsp; Here, says David, &ldquo;I fell asleep in blissful
+condition . . . until the early morning coaches rumbling out of
+<i>the archway underneath</i> made me dream of thunder and the
+gods.&rdquo;&nbsp; This entrance was abolished in 1851, giving
+place to a more convenient exterior arrangement and doorway;
+again remodelled, 1897.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Golden Cross</span> is again referred
+to in the Copperfield experience (chapter 40) as the place where
+David conferred with <i>Mr. Peggotty</i>, one snowy night, after
+their <a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+3</span>unexpected meeting opposite St. Martin&rsquo;s Church
+(close at hand on the north, at the corner of St. Martin&rsquo;s
+Lane), when <i>Martha</i> listened at the door.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In those days there was a side
+entrance&rdquo; (Duncannon Street, now appropriated by the London
+and North-Western Railway Company) &ldquo;nearly opposite to
+where we stood.&nbsp; I pointed out the gateway, put my arm
+through his, and we went across.&nbsp; Two or three public rooms
+opened out of the stable-yard; and looking into one of them, and
+finding it empty, and a good fire burning, I took him in
+there.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Opposite the principal entrance of <span class="smcap">The
+Golden Cross</span> is <b>Craven Street</b>, leading to the
+Thames Embankment.&nbsp; It now mainly consists of private hotels
+and boarding-houses, at which visitors to London may be
+conveniently accommodated on reasonable terms.&nbsp; In the days
+of <i>Oliver Twist</i> these were, for the most part, private
+houses; and here was <span class="smcap">Mr. Brownlow&rsquo;s
+Residence</span>&mdash;taken after his removal from
+Pentonville&mdash;in which was the back parlour where full
+confession was extorted from <i>Monks</i>, <i>alias Edward
+Leeford</i>.&nbsp; The house, No. 39 (now <i>Barnett&rsquo;s
+Private Hotel</i>), centrally situated on the east side, is
+stated to have been assigned as the residence aforesaid.</p>
+<p>On the south side of the Strand we immediately reach the
+<b>Charing Cross Terminus</b> of the South-Eastern Railway, built
+on the site of old Hungerford Market.&nbsp; At No. 30
+<b>Hungerford Stairs</b>, at the back of this locality, Charles
+Dickens, when a lad, did duty at the Blacking Manufactory of a
+relative, by name James Lamert, at a salary of six or seven
+shillings a week, as his first employment in life.&nbsp; It was
+the last house on the left-hand side of the way, a crazy,
+tumble-down old place abutting on the river.&nbsp; Here his work
+was to cover and label the pots of paste-blacking.&nbsp; To this
+episode of his youthful experience he refers in the history of
+&ldquo;David Copperfield,&rdquo; chapter 11, David becoming
+&ldquo;a labouring hind&rdquo; in the service of <i>Messrs.
+Murdstone and Grinby</i>.&nbsp; In old Hungerford Market, too,
+was <a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span><span
+class="smcap">The Chandler&rsquo;s Shop</span> over which <i>Mr.
+Peggotty</i> slept on the night of his first arrival in London;
+the bedroom being afterwards appropriated by Mr. Dick.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;There was a low wooden colonnade before the
+door, which pleased Mr. Dick mightily.&nbsp; The glory of lodging
+over this structure would have compensated him for many
+inconveniences. . . .&nbsp; He was perfectly charmed with his
+accommodation.&nbsp; Mrs. Crupp had indignantly assured him that
+there wasn&rsquo;t room to swing a cat there; but, as Mr. Dick
+justly observed, &lsquo;You know, Trotwood, I don&rsquo;t want to
+swing a cat.&nbsp; I never do swing a cat.&nbsp; Therefore, what
+does that signify to me!&rsquo;&rdquo;&mdash;See
+&ldquo;Copperfield,&rdquo; chapters 32 and 35.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><span class="smcap">Hungerford</span> is also mentioned in the
+same book (chapter 57) as the place where, previous to their
+departure for Australia, the <span class="smcap">Micawber
+Family</span> had lodgings &ldquo;in a little, dirty, tumble-down
+public-house, which in those days was close to the stairs, and
+whose protruding wooden rooms overhung the river.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>By a parallel street near at hand (next turning on the left of
+the Strand&mdash;Agar Street) we come into Chandos Street, where
+are situated the large stores of the Civil Service Supply
+Association, which, during recent years, have been enlarged,
+extending westward in Chandos Street.&nbsp; This extension
+occupies the former site of No. 3, whilom a chemist&rsquo;s shop,
+kept by a Mr. Wellspring.&nbsp; Here, in the days that are gone,
+was established a second warehouse of Lamert&rsquo;s blacking
+trade, the business being removed in course of time to this
+address; and here Dickens, with other lads, was often busily
+employed near the window.&nbsp; They acquired such dexterity in
+finishing off the pots, that many persons would stand outside,
+looking on with interest at the performance.</p>
+<p>On the opposite side of Chandos Street is
+<i>Bedfordbury</i>&mdash;a northward thoroughfare leading to New
+Street, Covent Garden&mdash;on the right of which stands a range
+of five large five-storied blocks known as <i>Peabody&rsquo;s
+Buildings</i>.&nbsp; These afford respectable accommodation for
+artizans.&nbsp; This was the locality of <b>Tom
+All-Alone&rsquo;s</b>, that wretched rookery of evil repute in <a
+name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>the days of
+<i>Poor Joe</i>, as described in chapter 16 of &ldquo;Bleak
+House.&rdquo;&nbsp; But, in these degenerate times, the black,
+dilapidated streets and tumbling tenements have given place to
+wholesome dwellings, and the neighbourhood is associated with the
+name of a great American philanthropist.</p>
+<p>Returning to the south side of the Strand, we next come to
+<b>Buckingham Street</b> (turning on right, by No. 37), at the
+end house of which, on the right, facing the river, was the top
+set of chambers in the Adelphi, consisting of</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A little half-blind entry, where you could
+hardly see anything, a little stone-blind pantry, where you could
+see nothing at all, a sitting-room and a bedroom.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here <i>David Copperfield</i> for some time resided under the
+housekeeping supervision of Mrs. Crupp, and the residence was
+afterwards shared by <i>Miss Betsy Trotwood</i>.&nbsp; At the
+next turning in the Strand&mdash;by No. 64, same side of the
+way&mdash;we arrive at Durham Street, which leads to the no
+thoroughfare of <b>The Adelphi Arches</b>, about and through
+which the lad Charles Dickens loved in his leisure time to
+roam.&nbsp; David Copperfield says&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I was fond of wandering about the Adelphi,
+because it was a mysterious place, with those dark arches.&nbsp;
+I see myself emerging one evening from one of these arches, on a
+little public-house, close to the river, with an open space
+before it, where some coal-heavers were dancing.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Of this place more anon.</p>
+<p>Continuing our onward journey, we come to Adam Street
+(right-hand turning by No. 72), looking down which may be seen,
+at the corner of John Street, <span class="smcap">The Adelphi
+Hotel</span>.&nbsp; This hotel was known in the days of Pickwick
+as <b>Osborn&rsquo;s Hotel</b>, <b>Adelphi</b>.&nbsp; To this
+establishment, it will be remembered, came <i>Mr. Wardle</i>,
+visiting London with his daughter Emily, after Mr.
+Pickwick&rsquo;s release from the Fleet Prison, also accompanied
+by his trusty retainer, <i>the fat boy</i>, <i>Joe</i>.&nbsp; The
+last plate but one in the book illustrates <a
+name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>the plan
+adopted by <i>Mary</i> when inducing that intelligent youth to
+observe a discreet silence as to the visit of Mr. Snodgrass to
+his young mistress at this hotel; and we may recollect the
+<i>contretemps</i> which afterwards took place here at
+dinner-time, involving the detention of the clandestine lover,
+and resulting in a very satisfactory
+<i>d&eacute;nouement</i>.&mdash;See &ldquo;Pickwick,&rdquo;
+chapter 54.</p>
+<p>Passing the next block onwards, we arrive at the handsome
+frontage of the <span class="smcap">Hotel Cecil</span>.&nbsp; In
+former days, at western corner of same, close to No. 75, there
+existed a narrow and precipitous passage which was formerly the
+approach to the halfpenny boats.&nbsp; It led to a little
+public-house, &ldquo;<b>The Fox-under-the-Hill</b>,&rdquo; for a
+long time shut up and in ruinous condition&mdash;once situated on
+the water-side, the site of which is now covered by the west wing
+of the Hotel Cecil.</p>
+<p>This place is spoken of in Mr. Forster&rsquo;s Biography as
+being one of our author&rsquo;s <i>favourite localities</i>, and
+referred to in &ldquo;Copperfield,&rdquo; as before mentioned, in
+connection with the Adelphi Arches.&nbsp; This, then, was
+doubtless the tavern at which <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>,
+<i>junr.</i>, was accommodated, on his arrival in London,
+&ldquo;in the humbler regions of the Adelphi;&rdquo; and where he
+was unexpectedly visited by <i>Mark Tapley</i>, who then and
+there became his &ldquo;nat&rsquo;ral born servant, hired by
+fate,&rdquo; and his very faithful friend.&mdash;See
+&ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit,&rdquo; chapter 13.</p>
+<p>Farther onwards, on the same side, towards the centre of the
+Strand, there stood near Savoy Street the house which in all
+probability was the <b>Residence of Miss La Creevy</b>.&nbsp; It
+will be recollected that Ralph Nickleby, visiting his relations
+at this address in the Strand, is described as stopping</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At a private door, about halfway down that
+crowded thoroughfare.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>No. 111 was an old-fashioned house in just such a position,
+with a private door&mdash;a somewhat unusual convenience <a
+name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>in the
+Strand.&nbsp; A photographer&rsquo;s case had, for many years,
+displaced the &ldquo;large gilt frame screwed upon the street
+door,&rdquo; in which Miss La Creevy aforetime displayed her
+painted miniatures.&nbsp; The place has been pulled down,
+together with the adjoining house.&nbsp; Handsome modern business
+premises are erected on the double site.&mdash;See
+&ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby,&rdquo; chapter 2.</p>
+<p>We now cross to the north side of the Strand, and take the
+next turning on the left, <i>Wellington Street North</i>.&nbsp;
+Passing the Lyceum Theatre, we may note, on the opposite side,
+the offices of the Gaiety Theatre, No. 16.&nbsp; For many years
+this was the <b>Office of</b> &ldquo;<b>Household
+Words</b>&rdquo;; this well-known miscellany being started under
+the conductorship of Charles Dickens, March 30, 1850.</p>
+<p>It was afterwards removed to No. 26, higher up, on the same
+side of the way, at which address the later issue of <i>All the
+Year Round</i> was published, as conducted by Charles Dickens,
+the son.</p>
+<p>Proceeding a short distance onwards, and turning to the left,
+we come into the precincts of <b>Covent Garden Market</b>.&nbsp;
+At the south corner of <i>Russell Street</i> we may note the
+position of the old <span class="smcap">Hummums Hotel</span>,
+mentioned in &ldquo;Great Expectations&rdquo; as the place where
+Pip slept, in accordance with the warning received from Mr.
+Wemmick&mdash;&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t go home.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The present establishment was erected on the site of the
+former hotel (as it stood in the days of Mr. Pip&rsquo;s
+sojourn), 1892; on completion of the new Flower Market, <span
+class="smcap">The Tavistock Hotel</span>, Piazzas, on the north
+side of the market, was the house at which were held the
+fortnightly meetings of &ldquo;The Finches of the Grove,&rdquo;
+Herbert Pocket and Mr. Pip being members of the Club known by
+this appellation in the book above mentioned.&nbsp; The end and
+aim of this institution seemed to be &ldquo;that the members
+should dine expensively once a fortnight, to quarrel among
+themselves as much as possible after dinner, and to cause six
+waiters to get drunk on the stairs.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>A general
+description of <i>Covent Garden</i> will be found in
+&ldquo;Little Dorrit&rdquo; (chapter 14), and a graphic reference
+to &ldquo;the seamy side&rdquo; of this locality is contained in
+the pages of &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend&rdquo; (chapter 9, Book
+4).</p>
+<p>Returning by Russell Street, we soon reach <i>Bow Street</i>,
+and on the left may observe an open space contiguous to the
+<i>Foreign Fruit Market</i>.&nbsp; On this space there stood No.
+4, in recent times occupied by Mr. Stinchcombe, costumier.&nbsp;
+Some years since this was the situation of <b>Bow Street Police
+Court</b>, now removed to the handsome new building facing Covent
+Garden Theatre.&nbsp; This, therefore, was the place at which the
+<i>Artful Dodger</i>, when committed for trial by the presiding
+magistrate, thus reserved his defence:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;This ain&rsquo;t the shop for justice;
+besides which my attorney is a-breakfasting this morning with the
+Vice-President of the House of Commons; but I shall have
+something to say elsevere, and so will he, and so will a wery
+numerous and respectable circle of acquaintances, as&rsquo;ll
+make them beaks wish they&rsquo;d never been
+born.&rdquo;&mdash;See &ldquo;Oliver Twist,&rdquo; chapter
+43.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>At a short distance onwards, we may note <b>Covent Garden
+Theatre</b>, selected by David Copperfield as his first place of
+entertainment in London, after dinner at the Golden Cross
+Hotel&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Being then in a pleasant frame of mind . .
+. I resolved to go to the play.&nbsp; It was Covent Garden
+Theatre that I chose; and there, from the back of a centre box, I
+saw &ldquo;Julius C&aelig;sar&rdquo; and the new pantomime.&nbsp;
+To have all those noble Romans alive before me, and walking in
+and out for my entertainment, instead of being the stern
+taskmasters they had been at school, was a most novel and
+delightful effect.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This theatre, as attended by David, was destroyed by fire
+March 4, 1856, six years after his autobiography was published,
+and afterwards rebuilt.</p>
+<p>Exactly opposite the fa&ccedil;ade of the theatre is <b>Broad
+Court</b>, past the new magisterial building above referred
+to.&nbsp; This was the location given by <i>Mr. Snevellicci</i>
+(at Portsmouth), on a convivial occasion, described in <a
+name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>&ldquo;Nicholas
+Nickleby&rdquo; (chapter 30), as his London address:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I am not ashamed of myself; Snevellicci is
+my name.&nbsp; I&rsquo;m to be found in Broad Court, Bow Street,
+when I&rsquo;m in town.&nbsp; If I&rsquo;m not at home, let any
+man ask for me at the stage-door.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>There is also historical reference to <i>Bow Street</i> in
+&ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; as the place where &ldquo;another
+boy was hanged,&rdquo; after the suppression of the Gordon
+riots.</p>
+<p>Exactly facing the north end of Bow Street, which gives into
+Long Acre, is a large building, now a stationer&rsquo;s
+warehouse, recently used as the Clergy Co-operative Stores.&nbsp;
+Thirty-five years since this site was occupied by <b>St.
+Martin&rsquo;s Hall</b>, in which Dickens gave his first series
+of paid readings in London (sixteen nights), under the management
+of Mr. Arthur Smith, 1858.&nbsp; The hall was a short time
+afterwards burnt down, and the Queen&rsquo;s Theatre was here
+erected in its stead by Mr. Wigan; which theatre was since
+converted to the commercial uses of the Clergy as aforesaid.</p>
+<p>Proceeding up <i>Long Acre</i> to <i>Drury Lane</i>, we turn
+to the right, and in five minutes pass the back of Drury Lane
+Theatre.&nbsp; The second turning on the same side is <span
+class="smcap">Russell Court</span>, a narrow passage leading to
+Catherine Street.&nbsp; The entire area between the two streets,
+for some distance, is cleared for building improvements, so that
+the indications immediately following refer to the past, and not
+practically to the present.&nbsp; These things have been, but are
+not.</p>
+<p>In this court, about halfway on the right, was to be found
+(until 1897) the entrance to what was once the pauper <b>Burial
+Ground</b> where Captain Hawdon&mdash;known as <i>Nemo</i> in the
+pages of &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo;&mdash;was interred, and where
+Lady Dedlock was afterwards found dead at the gateway, she having
+fled from her husband, Sir Leicester, in despair, dreading the
+<i>expos&eacute;</i> threatened by Mr. Tulkinghorn.&nbsp; It is
+also associated with <i>Poor Jo</i>, the
+crossing-sweeper.&mdash;See &ldquo;Bleak House,&rdquo; chapters
+11 and 59.</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+10</span>&ldquo;With houses looking on, on every side, save where
+a reeking little tunnel of a court gives access to the iron
+gate&mdash;with every villainy of life in action close on death,
+and every poisonous element of death in action close on
+life&mdash;here, they lower our dear brother down a foot or two:
+here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in incorruption: an
+avenging ghost at many a sick bedside: a shameful testimony to
+future ages, how civilisation and barbarism walked this boastful
+island together.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This intermural graveyard was attached to the Church of St.
+Mary-le-Strand, and has been closed for many years.&nbsp; The
+enclosure was converted into a recreation ground, and formally
+opened as such by Lady George Hamilton, May 19, 1886, on behalf
+of the Metropolitan Public Garden Association.&nbsp; But the
+entire locality is changed, the &ldquo;avenging ghost&rdquo; has
+ceased to walk, and the &ldquo;shameful testimony&rdquo; has
+ended.</p>
+<p>At a short distance in Drury Lane, towards the Strand, we turn
+(left) by No. 106, into <b>Clare Court</b>, referred to in
+Forster&rsquo;s Biography as follows&mdash;(C.D.
+<i>loq.</i>):&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Once, I remember tucking my own bread
+(which I had brought from home in the morning) under my arm,
+wrapped up in a piece of paper like a book, and going into the
+best dining-room in Johnson&rsquo;s <i>a la mode</i> beef-house
+in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a small
+plate of <i>a la mode</i> beef to eat with it.&nbsp; What the
+waiter thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all
+alone, I don&rsquo;t know, but I can see him now, staring at me
+as I ate my dinner, and bringing up the other waiter to
+look.&nbsp; I gave him a halfpenny, and I wish now that he
+hadn&rsquo;t taken it.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This episode of the author&rsquo;s experience as a poor boy in
+London was reproduced in &ldquo;David Copperfield,&rdquo; chapter
+11.&nbsp; The dining-house mentioned then existed (1824) at No.
+13 in the court, in a prominent corner position.&nbsp; It has
+been unknown to fame for the last thirty years.</p>
+<p>Returning by Drury Court to the Strand, and passing on the
+south side of the church above mentioned, we turn by No. 162<span
+class="smcap">a</span> into <i>Strand Lane</i>, where may be
+visited, at No. 5, <b>The Old Roman Bath</b> referred to by David
+Copperfield, who says, &ldquo;In which I have had many a cold
+plunge.&rdquo;&nbsp; <a name="page11"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 11</span>(See chapter 35.)&nbsp; The bath
+itself is lined with white marble, and dates from the sixteenth
+century.&nbsp; It is supplied from an old Roman reservoir
+adjoining, about 2000 years old.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p10.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Old Roman Bath"
+title=
+"The Old Roman Bath"
+src="images/p10.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Passing Surrey Street, just beyond, we come (next on the
+right) to <i>Norfolk Street</i>, in which there may be noted the
+former whereabouts of <span class="smcap">Mrs. Lirriper&rsquo;s
+Lodgings</span>; and we may here recall the pleasant associations
+connected with the Christmas numbers of <i>All the Year
+Round</i>, 1863 and 1864.&nbsp; The houses in this street are not
+enumerated beyond forty-five, all told.&nbsp; The figures 81, as
+given in the tale referred to, should be <i>reversed</i>; but sad
+to relate, No. 18&mdash;long standing as an old-fashioned
+boarding-house on the western side, below Howard Street&mdash;has
+disappeared, and certain modern buildings, offices, etc.,
+recently erected, now occupy the old site.&nbsp; At a short
+distance farther on, in a central position in the Strand, stands
+the church of <b>St. Clement Danes</b>.&nbsp; It is of interest
+in this connection as the scene of Mrs. Lirriper&rsquo;s wedding,
+some forty years previous to the narration of her business
+experience; and where she still retained &ldquo;a sitting in a
+very pleasant pew, with genteel company, and her own hassock,
+being partial to evening service, not too crowded.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Retracing our steps, three minutes, to the Church of St.
+Mary-le-Strand, again leaving the Strand by <i>Newcastle</i> and
+<i>Houghton Streets</i>, and turning left and right (leaving
+Clare Market on the left), we shortly arrive at <i>Portsmouth
+Street</i>, <i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields</i>.&nbsp; At No. 14
+will be found (for a short time only) a small old-fashioned
+house, on the front of which is painted an inscription,
+&ldquo;<b>The Old Curiosity Shop</b>, <i>Immortalised by Charles
+Dickens</i>,&rdquo; now occupied by Mr. H. Poole, dealer in
+wastepaper.&nbsp; This is said to be the house assigned by the
+novelist for the residence of Little Nell and her grandfather,
+with whose pathetic history we are all familiar&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;One of those receptacles for old and
+curious things, which seem to crouch in odd corners of this town,
+and to hide their musty treasures from the public eye in jealousy
+and distrust.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>It
+cannot, however, be regarded as absolutely certain that this
+particular house was the author&rsquo;s intended &ldquo;local
+habitation&rdquo; for one of the best-known and loved of his
+creations.&nbsp; The tale itself concludes with a reference to
+<i>Kit&rsquo;s</i> uncertainty as to the whereabouts of the
+place:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The old house had long ago been pulled
+down, and a fine broad road was in its place.&nbsp; At first he
+would draw with his stick a square upon the ground to show them
+where it used to stand.&nbsp; But he soon became uncertain of the
+spot, and could only say it was thereabouts, he thought, and that
+these alterations were confusing.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>[A lady, personally acquainted with the great novelist, has
+informed the author that she was once taken by Mr. Dickens to No.
+10 Green Street (approaching Leicester Square from the
+east)&mdash;at the corner of Green and Castle Streets, behind the
+National Gallery&mdash;the business of curiosity-dealing being
+then and there carried on.&nbsp; Mr. Dickens himself localised
+this house as the home of little Nell, pointing out an inner
+room&mdash;divided from the shop by a glass partition&mdash;as
+her bedroom.&nbsp; The premises are now rebuilt.]</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p12.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Old Curiosity Shop"
+title=
+"The Old Curiosity Shop"
+src="images/p12.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>At a short distance from this locality, and at an opposite
+angle of the street, there existed (until 1898) one of the
+old-fashioned taverns of the metropolis.&nbsp; The house was
+noteworthy, with its overhanging front resting on rough wooden
+pillars, and was named <i>Old George IVth</i>.</p>
+<p>It is now replaced by a newly-built house of the same name, in
+modern style of plate glass, mahogany, and glitter.</p>
+<p>It is highly probable that the old tavern represented the
+location and character of &ldquo;<b>The Magpie and
+Stump</b>,&rdquo; the rendezvous of <i>Mr. Lowten</i>
+(Perker&rsquo;s clerk) and other choice spirits in the days of
+Pickwick.&nbsp; It is described in the Pickwickian history as
+being near Clare Market, at the back of New Inn, and to this
+position the &ldquo;Old George IVth&rdquo; will correspond.&nbsp;
+Joe Miller, of jocular celebrity, was, aforetime, a frequenter of
+this establishment, when his quips &ldquo;were wont to set the
+table in a roar.&rdquo;&nbsp; His seat was still shown in the bar
+of the old house.&nbsp; Dickens and Thackeray were also well <a
+name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>remembered as
+visitors to this ancient hostelry.&nbsp; There is now a
+&ldquo;Magpie and Stump&rdquo; in Fetter Lane, at some distance
+hence; but it is evident that Dickens transferred the name to a
+tavern in this neighbourhood.&nbsp; It will be remembered that
+here Mr. Pickwick enjoyed an hour&rsquo;s entertainment,
+listening to the legends of &ldquo;those curious old
+nooks,&rdquo; the Inns of London, as related by Jack
+Bamber&mdash;see &ldquo;Pickwick,&rdquo; chapter 21&mdash;also
+containing a description of the advertisements of the tavern, as
+then displayed therein.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the lower windows, which were decorated
+with curtains of a saffron hue, dangled two or three printed
+cards, bearing reference to Devonshire cyder and Dantzic spruce,
+while a large black board, announcing in white letters to an
+enlightened public, that there were 500,000 barrels of double
+stout in the cellars of the establishment, left the mind in a
+state of not unpleasing doubt and uncertainty as to the precise
+direction in the bowels of the earth, in which this mighty cavern
+might be supposed to extend.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>Dick Swiveller</i> would doubtless occasionally patronise
+this establishment.&nbsp; He lodged hereabouts &ldquo;in the
+neighbourhood of Drury Lane;&rdquo; but it is difficult to
+indicate any particular house which Dickens may have selected for
+his accommodation.</p>
+<p>Stretching eastward from this point is <i>Portugal Street</i>,
+famed in the same book as containing the <b>Old Public House</b>
+patronised by Mr. Tony Weller and his <i>confr&egrave;res</i> of
+the coach-driving persuasion.&nbsp; This house&mdash;opposite the
+Insolvent Debtors&rsquo; Court&mdash;existed until a few years
+since, by name, &ldquo;The Horse and Groom.&rdquo;&nbsp; It and
+many more besides, have now given place to a range of new offices
+and buildings in Elizabethan style, on the south side of the
+street (forming the north boundary of New Court), and the
+Insolvent Court has been recently appropriated to the uses of the
+Bankruptcy Court.&nbsp; It will be remembered that it was here
+<i>Mr. Samuel Weller</i> got into difficulties, and was hence
+consigned to the Fleet Prison at the instance of his father; the
+professional services of the suave <i>Mr. Solomon Pell</i> being
+retained on that occasion.&nbsp; Here also a select committee of
+friends assembled to assist at an oyster lunch and the proving of
+<a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>Mrs.
+Weller&rsquo;s will, when Mr. Pell again conducted the business
+to the satisfaction of all concerned.&mdash;See
+&ldquo;Pickwick,&rdquo; chapters 43 and 55.</p>
+<p>Returning through Portsmouth Street, we come into
+<i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields</i>; and, keeping on its western
+side&mdash;passing Sardinia Street, with its old archway, on the
+left&mdash;we may note <b>Mr. John Forster&rsquo;s House</b>,
+<b>No. 58</b>.&nbsp; At this house resided the friend and
+biographer of Dickens, and here our author was, of course, a
+frequent visitor.&nbsp; On December the 2nd, 1844, Charles
+Dickens here first read his new Christmas book, &ldquo;The
+Chimes,&rdquo; to a select and critical audience, including
+Messrs. Forster, Maclise, Douglas Jerrold, Carlyle, Laman
+Blanchard, Fox, Stanfield, Harness, and Dyce.&nbsp; The house is
+itself described in the pages of &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo;
+(chapter 10) as the</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Residence of Mr. Tulkinghorn</span>.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In a large house, formerly a house of
+state, lives Mr. Tulkinghorn.&nbsp; It is let off in sets of
+chambers now; and in those shrunken fragments of its greatness,
+lawyers lie, like maggots in nuts.&nbsp; But its roomy
+staircases, passages, and antechambers still remain; and even its
+painted ceiling, where Allegory in Roman helmet and celestial
+linen sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers, clouds, and
+big-legged boys, and makes the head ache, as would seem to be
+Allegory&rsquo;s object always, more or less.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>As in the time spoken of, the house is still in legal
+possession, being let out as solicitors&rsquo; offices; but the
+old Allegory has disappeared beneath modern whitewash.&nbsp;
+Within two minutes&rsquo; distance northward, the weary rambler
+may reach the central thoroughfare of <span
+class="smcap">Holborn</span>, where (turning to the left), close
+at hand, will be found the <i>Holborn Restaurant</i>, at which
+Sam Weller&rsquo;s advice on the subject of a &ldquo;little
+dinner&rdquo; (or luncheon) may be worth practical
+consideration:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Pair of fowls and a weal cutlet; French
+beans, &rsquo;taturs, tart, and tidiness.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Certain it is that everything at this establishment will be
+found &ldquo;werry clean and comfortable,&rdquo; on reasonable
+terms.</p>
+<h2><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>RAMBLE
+II<br />
+<i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn to the Mansion House</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Hall; &ldquo;Jarndyce and
+Jarndyce&rdquo;&mdash;Old Square; Offices of Kenge and Carboy;
+Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin&mdash;Bishop&rsquo;s Court; Miss
+Flite&rsquo;s Lodging at Krook&rsquo;s Rag and Bottle Warehouse;
+Nemo; Tony Weevle&mdash;The Old Ship Tavern; &ldquo;The
+Sol&rsquo;s Arms&rdquo;&mdash;Coavinses&rsquo; Castle&mdash;Mr.
+Snagsby&rsquo;s Residence, Took&rsquo;s Court, Cursitor
+Street&mdash;Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and
+Gridley&mdash;Tellson&rsquo;s Bank, Fleet Street&mdash;The
+Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth Pinch and John Westlock); Garden
+Court (Pip&rsquo;s Chambers); Pump Court (Chambers of the elder
+Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John Chester and Mr.
+Stryver, K.C.)&mdash;Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and
+Wrayburn&mdash;Bradley Headstone&rsquo;s
+Look-out&mdash;Clifford&rsquo;s Inn; John Rokesmith and Mr.
+Boffin&mdash;St. Dunstan&rsquo;s Pump and Maypole Hugh&mdash;St.
+Dunstan&rsquo;s Church; &ldquo;The Chimes&rdquo;&mdash;Bradbury
+and Evans, Bouverie Street&mdash;Office of the <i>Daily
+News</i>&mdash;Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher&rsquo;s
+Rooms,&ndash;&ldquo;Ye old Cheshire
+Cheese&rdquo;&mdash;Farringdon, formerly Fleet,
+Market&mdash;Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller&rsquo;s
+Imprisonment&mdash;Belle Sauvage Yard&mdash;London Coffee House;
+Arthur Clennam&rsquo;s arrival&mdash;St. Paul&rsquo;s
+Churchyard&mdash;Dean&rsquo;s Court&mdash;Doctors&rsquo; Commons;
+Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins&mdash;&ldquo;Bell
+Tavern&rdquo;&mdash;Wood Street; Coach Office at which Pip first
+arrived&mdash;The London Stereoscopic Company;
+&ldquo;Grip,&rdquo; the Raven&mdash;Bow Church&mdash;The
+Guildhall; Bardell <i>v.</i> Pickwick&mdash;Grocers&rsquo; Hall
+Court&mdash;The Mansion House; References in &ldquo;Barnaby
+Rudge,&rdquo; &ldquo;Christmas Carol,&rdquo; and &ldquo;Martin
+Chuzzlewit&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Dombey and Son.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Rambler now crosses Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields, and, on
+its eastern side, enters the precincts of <i>Lincoln&rsquo;s
+Inn</i>, through an arched gateway, from Serle Street.&nbsp;
+Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and Library on
+the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at <a
+name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>old
+<b>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Hall</b>, <span class="smcap">the Lord
+High Chancellor&rsquo;s Court</span>, with its central turret and
+lantern, bearing the initials of the reigning Treasurer, 1818,
+where Chancery suits were tried thirty years since.&nbsp; Here
+that <i>cause c&eacute;l&egrave;bre</i>, <span
+class="smcap">Jarndyce</span> and <span
+class="smcap">Jarndyce</span>, dragged &ldquo;its slow length
+along&rdquo; through the weary years, involving</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Bills, cross-bills, answers, rejoinders,
+injunctions, affidavits, issues, references to masters,
+masters&rsquo; reports&mdash;mountains of costly
+nonsense.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little <i>Miss
+Flite</i>, in her squeezed bonnet, carrying &ldquo;her
+documents,&rdquo; and</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Always expecting some incomprehensible
+judgment in her favour.&rdquo;&mdash;See &ldquo;Bleak
+House,&rdquo; chapter 1.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the
+New Law Courts.&nbsp; Hard by, on the north, passing through the
+cloisters of the Chapel of Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, we come into the
+enclosure of <b>Old Square</b>, <span
+class="smcap">Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn</span>, where the <i>Offices of
+Messrs. Kenge and Carboy</i> were situated.&nbsp; Esther
+Summerson says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We passed into sudden quietude, under an
+old gateway, and drove on through a silent square, until we came
+to an odd nook in a corner, where there was an entrance up a
+steep broad flight of stairs, like an entrance to a
+church.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and
+Co.&rsquo;s offices used to flourish in the north-west corner,
+where still the rising of the ground necessitates an exterior
+flight of steps.&nbsp; The chambers of <i>Sergeant Snubbin</i>,
+counsel for the defence in &ldquo;Bardell <i>v.</i>
+Pickwick,&rdquo; were also located in this square, probably on
+the opposite side.</p>
+<p>Returning to Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, we may follow Esther
+Summerson&rsquo;s directions, and visit the apartments of <i>Miss
+Flite</i>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Slipping us out of a little side gate, the
+old lady stopped most unexpectedly in a narrow back street, part
+of some courts and lanes immediately outside the wall of the inn,
+and said, &lsquo;This is my lodging.&nbsp; Pray walk
+up!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>Thus,
+passing at the back of the Inn, and taking the next turning on
+the left, we arrive at <b>Bishop&rsquo;s Court</b>, near at hand,
+a narrow, dark, and old passage leading to Chancery Lane.&nbsp;
+On the left hand, nearest the Inn, was <i>Krook&rsquo;s Rag and
+Bottle Warehouse</i>, probably No. 3.&nbsp; But during recent
+years, all the old houses of the court have been substituted by
+modern buildings, offices, and shops; so that the location only
+remains of the &ldquo;Lord Chancellor,&rdquo; and his place of
+business, yclept by the neighbours the &ldquo;Court of
+Chancery.&rdquo;&nbsp; The old shop, at one time, possessed the
+private door and stairway leading to <i>Miss Flite&rsquo;s
+lodging</i>.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;She lived at the top of the house, in a
+pretty large room, from which she had a glimpse of the roof of
+Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Hall.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise <i>Nemo</i>, the
+law-writer, lived and died in a bare room on the second
+floor.&nbsp; A notice may have been observed in the old shop
+window, &ldquo;Engrossing and Copying.&rdquo;&nbsp; It will be
+remembered that this room was afterwards occupied by <i>Mr. Tony
+Weevle</i>, during whose tenancy it was decorated with a choice
+collection of magnificent portraits, being&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Copper-plate impressions from that truly
+national work, the Divinities of Albion, or Galaxy Gallery of
+British Beauty; representing ladies of title and fashion, in
+every variety of smirk, that art, combined with capital, is
+capable of producing.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short
+distance along Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of
+<i>Chichester Rents</i>, a modern warehouse (No. 7), recently
+erected on the site of &ldquo;<b>The Old Ship Tavern</b>,&rdquo;
+now <i>non est</i>, named in the pages of &ldquo;Bleak
+House&rdquo; <i>The Sol&rsquo;s Arms</i>, it being the house at
+which <i>the Inquest was held</i>, following the death of
+<i>Nemo</i>, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the
+proffered evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the
+presiding coroner.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Can&rsquo;t exactly say; won&rsquo;t do,
+you know.&nbsp; We can&rsquo;t take that in a Court of Justice,
+gentlemen.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s terrible depravity.&nbsp; Put the boy
+aside.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>The old
+tavern has given place to the exigencies of modern commerce
+(1897).&nbsp; The ghost of <i>Little Swills</i> may still linger
+in the neighbourhood, but the musical evenings of the past are
+silent, being now superseded by the prosaics of ordinary
+business.</p>
+<p>The real <span class="smcap">Sol&rsquo;s Arms</span> still
+exists, <i>No.</i> 65 <i>Hampstead Road</i>, <i>N.W.</i>, at the
+corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol&rsquo;s Row.&nbsp;
+Its name was derived from the &ldquo;Sol&rsquo;s Society,&rdquo;
+whose meetings, held therein, were of a Masonic character.&nbsp;
+It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the style and name
+of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as
+above.</p>
+<p>Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite
+the old gateway of Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, <b>Cursitor Street</b>, a
+thoroughfare leading eastward from the Lane.&nbsp; It will be
+noticed that the houses in this street are comparatively of
+recent erection, and we may now look in vain for <span
+class="smcap">Coavinses&rsquo; Castle</span>, which has been
+swept away by the besom of modern destruction and
+improvement.&nbsp; This old sponging-house flourished (in the
+days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site
+now occupied by <i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Chambers</i>, No. 1.</p>
+<p>At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a
+turning on the left to <i>Took&rsquo;s Court</i>, referred to in
+&ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; as <i>Cook&rsquo;s Court</i>, in which
+was <b>Mr. Snagsby&rsquo;s Residence</b> <span class="smcap">and
+Law Stationer&rsquo;s Shop</span>.&nbsp; The court is not a long
+one, and consists mainly of offices connected with the legal
+profession.&nbsp; The location of Mr. Snagsby&rsquo;s shop was at
+the central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by
+modern offices and stores.&nbsp; &ldquo;The little drawing-room
+upstairs&rdquo; is described as commanding</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A view of Cook&rsquo;s Court at one end
+(not to mention a squint into Cursitor Street) and of
+Coavins&rsquo;s, the Sheriff&rsquo;s Officer&rsquo;s, backyard on
+the other.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared <a
+name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>for the
+reception of the <i>Rev. Mr. Chadband</i> (Chaplain-in-Ordinary
+to Mrs. Snagsby), who was &ldquo;endowed with the gift of holding
+forth for four hours at a stretch.&rdquo;&nbsp; On that occasion,
+it will be remembered that Poor Jo&mdash;brought to Cook&rsquo;s
+Court by a police constable&mdash;was eloquently addressed by the
+reverend gentleman, but was not greatly edified by his
+admonitions.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At this threatening stage of the discourse,
+Jo, who seems to have been gradually going out of his mind,
+smears his right arm over his face, and gives a terrible
+yawn.&nbsp; Mrs. Snagsby indignantly expresses her belief that he
+is a limb of the arch-fiend.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note
+<i>Bream&rsquo;s Buildings</i>, as being the northern boundary of
+the former site of <b>Symond&rsquo;s Inn</b>, which hence
+extended onward to No. 22.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn,
+like a large dust-bin of two compartments and a sifter.&nbsp; It
+looks as if Symond were a sparing man in his day, and constructed
+his inn of old building materials, which took kindly to the dry
+rot, and to dirt, and all things decaying and dismal, and
+perpetuated Symond&rsquo;s memory with congenial
+shabbiness.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position
+being now occupied by a large printer&rsquo;s establishment and
+other offices.&nbsp; Readers of &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; will
+remember that the professional chambers of <i>Mr. Vholes</i> were
+here situated, and that <i>Richard Carstone</i> and his young
+wife <i>Ada</i> resided in the next house, in order that Richard
+might have his legal adviser close at hand.&nbsp; Here occurred
+the early death of poor Richard; and we all cherish the
+remembrance of dear Ada&rsquo;s wifely devotion, to which
+<i>Esther Summerson</i> thus refers:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The days when I frequented that miserable
+corner which my dear girl brightened can never fade in my
+remembrance.&nbsp; I never see it, and I never wish to see it
+now; I have been there only once since; but in my memory there is
+a mournful glory shining on the place, which will shine for
+ever.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we
+reach <a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+20</span><b>Bell Yard</b>, leading to Fleet Street.&nbsp; This
+place has been mentioned by Dickens as containing a
+&ldquo;chandler&rsquo;s shop, left-hand side,&rdquo; where lodged
+<i>Gridley</i>, &ldquo;the man from Shropshire,&rdquo; and
+<i>Neckett</i>, the faithful servitor of Coavinses.&nbsp; The
+name&mdash;Bell Yard&mdash;forms the heading of chapter 15,
+&ldquo;Bleak House,&rdquo; which affords information of the
+Neckett family&mdash;<i>Charlie</i>, <i>Tom</i>, and the
+limp-bonneted <i>baby</i>.&nbsp; For full details, reference
+should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written
+chapter as above.&nbsp; Great alterations have been made, and are
+still being made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the
+New Law Courts in the immediate vicinity; but some of the older
+houses still remain on the left-hand side of the way.&nbsp; Of
+these, No. 9 is a small, tall, squeezed-looking house, about
+half-way down the alley, and may be safely assigned (thirty years
+since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs. Blinder.</p>
+<p>Passing through Bell Yard, we reach <i>Fleet Street</i>, at
+the point where once <span class="smcap">Temple Bar</span> gave
+ancient entrance to the City.&nbsp; Its position is marked by a
+bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath.&nbsp;
+Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern
+erection of <i>Child&rsquo;s Bank</i>.&nbsp; This new building
+dates from 1878, when the structure of old <i>Temple Bar</i> was
+removed.&nbsp; It replaces one of the very old-fashioned houses
+of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child carried on their
+important banking business.&nbsp; This house is spoken of by
+Dickens, in his &ldquo;Tale of Two Cities,&rdquo; as
+<b>Tellson&rsquo;s Bank</b>, on the outside of which the
+mysterious <i>Mr. Cruncher</i> was usually in attendance as
+&ldquo;odd-job man, and occasional porter and
+messenger.&rdquo;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Tellson&rsquo;s Bank, by Temple Bar, was an
+old-fashioned place even in the year 1780.&nbsp; It was very
+small, very dark, very ugly, very incommodious.&nbsp; Any one of
+the partners would have disinherited his son on the question of
+rebuilding Tellson&rsquo;s.&nbsp; Thus it had come to pass that
+Tellson&rsquo;s was the triumphant perfection of
+inconvenience.&nbsp; After bursting open a door of idiotic
+obstinacy with a weak rattle in its throat, you fell into
+Tellson&rsquo;s, down two steps, and came to your senses in a
+miserable little shop, with two little counters; where the oldest
+of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it, while <a
+name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>they examined
+the signature by the dingiest of windows, which were always under
+a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which were made the
+dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of Temple
+Bar.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p21.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Fountain Court, Temple"
+title=
+"Fountain Court, Temple"
+src="images/p21.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Passing Newton&rsquo;s (optician) we arrive at the outer
+<b>Gate of the Temple</b>, by which we enter <i>Middle Temple
+Lane</i>, following which a short distance and turning to the
+right, by <i>Middle Temple Hall</i>, we reach <b>Fountain
+Court</b>.&nbsp; The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a
+central position, is associated with the history of <i>Ruth
+Pinch</i>.&nbsp; Here it was that Tom and his sister made
+appointments for meeting&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Because, of course, when she had to wait a
+minute or two, it would have been very awkward for her to have
+had to wait in any but a quiet spot; and that was as quiet a
+spot, everything considered, as they could choose.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On further reference to the pages of &ldquo;Martin
+Chuzzlewit,&rdquo; we may recall the auspicious occasion when
+Ruth was under the special escort of <i>John
+Westlock</i>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in
+the sun, and merrily the idle drops of water danced and danced;
+and, peeping out in sport among the trees, plunged lightly down
+to hide themselves, as little Ruth and her companion came towards
+it.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>See chapter 53.&nbsp; In <b>Garden Court</b> beyond, <i>Mr.
+Pip</i> and his friend, <i>Herbert Pocket</i>, had
+residence.&nbsp; In &ldquo;Great Expectations,&rdquo; he
+says&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by
+the river.&nbsp; We lived at the top of the last
+house.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here Pip&rsquo;s patron and benefactor, the convict
+<i>Magwitch</i>, <i>alias Provis</i>, disclosed himself one
+memorable night, much to his &ldquo;dear boy&rsquo;s&rdquo;
+discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary
+accommodation was found for him at</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back
+of which looked into the Temple, and was almost within hail of
+&lsquo;Pip&rsquo;s&rsquo; windows.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may <a
+name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>look in vain
+for the actual chambers specified.&nbsp; Returning to <i>Middle
+Temple Lane</i>, the visitor may walk directly across it to
+<i>Elm Court</i>, and proceed through the same and a narrow
+passage beyond, turning to the left, through <i>The
+Cloisters</i>, which (left again) give into the central location
+of <b>Pump Court</b>, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices,
+four storeys high.&nbsp; Here, in all probability, were situated
+<span class="smcap">The Chambers</span> where <i>Tom Pinch</i>
+was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer,
+by the eccentric <i>Mr. Fips</i>.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;He led the way through sundry lanes and
+courts, into one more quiet and gloomy than the rest; and,
+singling out a certain house, ascended a common staircase . . .
+stopping before a door upon an upper storey. . . .&nbsp; There
+were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer one, a
+narrow staircase leading to two more above.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here, also, old <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i> revealed himself to
+the astonished Tom in his true character, and surprised the
+virtuous <i>Mr. Pecksniff</i> by a &ldquo;warm reception,&rdquo;
+when &ldquo;the tables were turned completely upside
+down.&rdquo;&mdash;See &ldquo;Chuzzlewit,&rdquo; chapters 39 and
+52.</p>
+<p>Proceeding past <i>Lamb Buildings</i>, on the east side of the
+Cloisters, and by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath
+the <i>Inner Temple Dining-Hall</i>, we may note across the road
+(right) a short range of substantial houses, known as <b>Paper
+Buildings</b>, facing <i>King&rsquo;s Bench Walk</i>, where it
+will be remembered that <i>Sir John Chester</i> had his
+residential chambers, no doubt selecting a central
+position&mdash;say, at No. 3.&nbsp; Here at various times Mr.
+Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden had
+audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which
+&ldquo;overhaul the wollume&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Barnaby
+Rudge.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of
+<i>Mr. Stryver</i>, <i>K.C.</i>, where <i>Sydney Carton</i>
+served as &ldquo;jackal&rdquo; to that &ldquo;fellow of
+delicacy;&rdquo; as we read in &ldquo;The Tale of Two
+Cities,&rdquo; how Sydney</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Having revived himself by twice pacing the
+pavements of King&rsquo;s Bench Walk and Paper Buildings, turned
+into the Stryver Chambers.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+23</span>Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing
+in front of the Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith&rsquo;s
+Buildings (right), which overlook the old burial-ground and the
+tomb of the doctor.&nbsp; This surely is the &ldquo;dismal
+churchyard&rdquo; referred to in &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend&rdquo;
+as being closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood
+and Wrayburn.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal
+windows commanding that churchyard, until at the most dismal
+window of them all, he saw a dismal boy, would in him have beheld
+. . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer Lightwood.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>N.B.</i>&mdash;Note the last window on the left (second
+floor), nearest the west wing, lately rebuilt.</p>
+<p>Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner
+Temple Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of
+<b>Bradley Headstone&rsquo;s</b> nightly watchings opposite this
+point for the outgoings of <i>Mr. Eugene Wrayburn</i>, and the
+many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as Eugene
+enjoyed &ldquo;the pleasures of the chase&rdquo; at the expense
+of his unfortunate rival.</p>
+<p>Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is
+<b>Clifford&rsquo;s Inn Passage</b>, into whose retirement <i>Mr.
+Rokesmith</i>, the hero of &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend,&rdquo;
+withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with <i>Mr. Boffin</i>,
+when offering that gentleman his services as secretary.</p>
+<p>Close at hand stands <b>St. Dunstan&rsquo;s Church</b>, near
+to which the pump was, but is not, from whose refreshing streams
+&ldquo;<i>Hugh</i>&rdquo; (from the Maypole, Chigwell) sobered
+himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to visiting Sir
+John Chester at Paper Buildings.&nbsp; (<i>Vide</i>
+&ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; chapter 40.)&nbsp; The old pump has
+been replaced by a drinking-fountain.</p>
+<p><i>Toby Veck</i> surely must have known that pump; for though
+there is no precise location given by Dickens in &ldquo;The
+Chimes&rdquo; for the church near to which Toby waited for jobs,
+there is an etching by Stanfield in the original <a
+name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>edition of
+that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the counterfeit
+presentment of St. Dunstan&rsquo;s Tower.</p>
+<p>Continuing the route, we pass <i>Bouverie Street</i> (Bradbury
+and Evans&mdash;now Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.&mdash;in this street
+were the publishers of several of the works of Dickens,
+&ldquo;The Chimes&rdquo; included) on the right, next arriving at
+<i>Whitefriars&rsquo; Street</i> on the same side.</p>
+<p>At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public <b>Office
+of</b> &ldquo;<b>The Daily News</b>.&rdquo;&nbsp; This
+influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under the
+supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the
+journal were published instalments of his &ldquo;Pictures from
+Italy.&rdquo;&nbsp; Dickens shortly relinquished the editorship,
+being succeeded by his friends Jerrold and Forster.&nbsp; The
+fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the study of general or
+party politics; but he always identified himself with &ldquo;the
+People&mdash;spelt with a large P, who are governed,&rdquo;
+rather than &ldquo;the people&mdash;spelt with a small p, who
+govern.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A short distance down Whitefriars&rsquo; Street is a passage
+(left) from which, at a right angle riverwards, we may look into
+<b>Hanging Sword Alley</b>, where Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher,
+messenger at Tellson&rsquo;s, had his two apartments.&nbsp; These
+&ldquo;were very decently kept&rdquo; by his wife, whose
+&ldquo;flopping&rdquo; proclivities gave so much umbrage to
+Jerry.</p>
+<p>On the opposite side of Fleet Street&mdash;No. 146&mdash;just
+beyond, we turn (left) into <i>Wine Office Court</i>, and, on the
+right, we arrive at &ldquo;<b>Ye Olde Cheshire
+Cheese</b>.&rdquo;&nbsp; In &ldquo;The Tale of Two Cities,&rdquo;
+Book 2, chapter 4, we read that <i>Charles Darnay</i>, being
+acquitted of the charge of high treason, on his trial at the Old
+Bailey, was persuaded by the young lawyer, <i>Sydney Carton</i>,
+to dine in his company thereafter:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Drawing his arm through his own, he took
+him down Ludgate Hill to Fleet Street, and so up a covered way
+into a tavern.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a
+noted resort with literary and legal men for more than a <a
+name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>century
+past.&nbsp; Here Doctor Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently
+dined together in days gone by, gravely discoursing over their
+punch afterwards; and, in more recent years, Thackeray, Dickens,
+Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned among the customary
+guests of the establishment.&nbsp; Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a
+pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Let it be noted in candour that Law finds
+its way to the &lsquo;Cheese&rsquo; as well as Literature; but
+the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant, and, consequently,
+harmless order.&nbsp; Literary men who have been called to the
+Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do not
+object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of
+retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the
+landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to
+Judge Blackstone when he wrote his
+&lsquo;Commentaries&rsquo;)&mdash;these make up the legal element
+of the &lsquo;Cheese.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor
+attains <i>Ludgate Circus</i>, from which <i>Farringdon
+Street</i> leads northward on the left.&nbsp; A short detour
+along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge of the
+Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of <i>Farringdon Market</i>
+on the left side.&nbsp; Its position will recall the description
+given in &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; in whose days it was known
+as <b>Fleet Market</b>,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At that time a long irregular row of wooden
+sheds and penthouses occupying the centre of what is now called
+Farringdon Street. . . .&nbsp; It was indispensable to most
+public conveniences in those days that they should be public
+nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained the principle to
+admiration.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here the rioters assembled&mdash;as narrated in the book
+before mentioned&mdash;and passed a merry night in the midst of
+congenial surroundings.&nbsp; Retracing our steps, we may note,
+on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site of the old
+<b>Fleet Prison</b>, on a part of which now stands the <span
+class="smcap">Congregational Memorial Hall</span>.&nbsp; The
+prison&mdash;fifty years since&mdash;stretched eastward in the
+rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co.,
+Belle Sauvage Yard.&nbsp; <a name="page26"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 26</span>Its last remaining walls were removed
+in 1872, when the foundation-stone of the &ldquo;Memorial
+Hall&rdquo; aforesaid was laid.&nbsp; Here was imprisoned our
+amiable friend <i>Mr. Pickwick</i>, attended by his faithful Sam,
+until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in
+<i>re</i> Bardell <i>versus</i> Pickwick were by him fully paid
+and satisfied.</p>
+<p>Proceeding up <i>Ludgate Hill</i>, we may soon note the
+<b>Belle Sauvage Yard</b> (turning by No. 68, on the left).&nbsp;
+The old inn, with its central metropolitan coach-yard, sixty
+years since occupied this site, where now the extensive printing
+and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold benignant
+sway.&nbsp; The place is referred to in an anecdote of <i>Sam
+Weller&rsquo;s</i> anent the preparation of his father&rsquo;s
+marriage licence, as arranged at Doctors&rsquo; Commons, the
+place being evidently regarded by that respected coachman as his
+parochial headquarters in London&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;What is your name, sir?&rsquo; says
+the lawyer.&nbsp; &lsquo;Tony Weller,&rsquo; says my
+father.&nbsp; &lsquo;Parish?&rsquo; says the lawyer.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Belle Savage,&rsquo; says my father; for he stopped there
+when he drove up, and he know&rsquo;d nothing about parishes,
+<i>he</i> didn&rsquo;t.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its
+olden style.&nbsp; In Mr. Weller&rsquo;s time it comprised two
+courts, the outer one being approached from Ludgate Hill by the
+present entrance, and the Belle Sauvage Inn forming a second
+quadrangle, with an archway about half-way up from the main
+entrance.&nbsp; In this interior court was the coach-yard,
+surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the
+fashion of the times.</p>
+<p>Passing onwards on the same side, past <i>Old Bailey</i>, we
+arrive at the site of the <b>London Coffee Tavern</b>, No. 46
+Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the corner shop of Messrs. Hope
+Brothers, the well-known outfitters.&nbsp; The old house was
+pulled down in 1872.&nbsp; Here <i>Mr. Arthur Clennam</i> rested
+awhile on his arrival &ldquo;from Marseilles by way of Dover, and
+by Dover coach, &lsquo;the Blue-Eyed Maid,&rsquo;&rdquo; one
+dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in chapter 3 of &ldquo;Little
+Dorrit.&rdquo;&nbsp; We now soon come to <a
+name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span><b>St.
+Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard</b>, facing the dial by which <i>Ralph
+Nickleby</i> corrected his watch on his way to the London Tavern,
+no doubt &ldquo;stepping aside&rdquo; into No.
+1&mdash;Dakin&rsquo;s&mdash;&ldquo;doorway&rdquo; to do it; and
+we may probably be disposed to endorse <i>John
+Browdie&rsquo;s</i> verdict with reference to St. Paul&rsquo;s
+Cathedral itself.&nbsp; &ldquo;See there, lass, there be
+Paul&rsquo;s Church.&nbsp; Ecod, he be a soizable one, he
+be.&rdquo;&nbsp; This locality is also mentioned in
+&ldquo;Barnaby Rudge&rdquo; as being in the line of road taken by
+<i>Lord George Gordon</i> when entering London with his friends
+<i>en route</i> for his residence in Welbeck Street.&nbsp; On the
+right, within a short distance, we come to <b>Dean&rsquo;s
+Court</b>, formerly <span class="smcap">Doctors&rsquo;
+Commons</span>. This place is referred to by <i>Sam Weller</i> as
+being in</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard&mdash;low
+archway on the carriage side, bookseller&rsquo;s at one corner,
+hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as touts for
+licences.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his
+father&rsquo;s having been here persuaded to take a marriage
+licence, directing the lady&rsquo;s name to be filled in on
+speculation.</p>
+<p>We hear more of Doctors&rsquo; Commons in the chronicles of
+&ldquo;David Copperfield.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins</b> were situated in
+this locality; but the site is now occupied by the Post Office
+Savings&rsquo; Bank in <i>Knightrider Street</i>.&nbsp; Passing
+through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul&rsquo;s
+(right), we cross <i>Carter Lane</i>, and proceed by a narrow
+court, <i>Bell Yard</i>, to the street above mentioned.&nbsp; At
+the corner of Carter Lane and Bell Yard is the &ldquo;<i>Bell
+Tavern</i>,&rdquo; which it may be interesting to note, as a
+house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in
+preparation for David&rsquo;s &ldquo;choice of a
+profession.&rdquo;&nbsp; For full particulars the Rambler is
+referred to chapter 23 of David&rsquo;s autobiography.</p>
+<p>It may also be remembered that the worthy <i>Mr. Boffin</i>
+(see &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend&rdquo;), when instructing his
+attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in his ideas relative to
+this institution.&nbsp; In conversation with Mr. Lightwood, he
+once <a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+28</span>referred to the same as a legal
+personality&mdash;&ldquo;<i>Doctor Scommons</i>!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its
+name and aspect.&nbsp; The old archway has disappeared.&nbsp; As
+previously stated, it is now known as Dean&rsquo;s Court.&nbsp;
+In connection with its old associations, there exists <i>The
+Bishop of London&rsquo;s Registry and Marriage Licence
+Office</i>, at the east corner of the court; and there are some
+Proctors&rsquo; offices doing business, as in the days of
+Copperfield, in the neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into
+Cheapside, soon arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No.
+122), at <b>Wood Street</b>.&nbsp; Associated with &ldquo;Great
+Expectations,&rdquo; as containing &ldquo;Cross Keys Inn&rdquo;
+(&ldquo;<i>The Castle</i>,&rdquo; No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip
+arrived when first visiting London, in accordance with
+instructions received per <i>Mr. Jaggers</i>.</p>
+<p>Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach
+the well-known establishment of the <b>London Stereoscopic
+Company</b>, No. 54.&nbsp; It may be interesting to know that
+this firm possesses the stuffed original of
+&ldquo;<i>Grip</i>,&rdquo; the Raven, the fortunate bird that
+received a double passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the
+particulars of its decease, and Maclise having sketched its
+apotheosis.&nbsp; This relic, so intimately associated with the
+tale of &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; was purchased at the public
+sale of Mr. Dickens&rsquo;s effects for &pound;110, and its
+photographic portrait may be now obtained at this address.</p>
+<p>A few steps farther on the same side stands the old <b>Church
+of St. Mary-le-Bow</b>, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to
+fame and fortune.&nbsp; These same bells are mentioned in the
+history of &ldquo;Dombey and Son,&rdquo; chapter 4, as being
+within hearing at the offices of that important firm.</p>
+<p>Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the
+thoroughfare, we arrive at King Street (turning by No. 92), at
+the top of which is <b>The Guildhall</b>.&nbsp; In the City Court
+attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of promise of
+marriage, <a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+29</span>&ldquo;Bardell <i>v.</i> Pickwick,&rdquo; was contested,
+on which occasion <i>Mr. Weller</i>, <i>senr.</i>, emphatically
+insisted (from the body of the Court) on Sam&rsquo;s spelling his
+name with a &ldquo;we,&rdquo; and afterwards much deplored the
+absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s
+behalf&mdash;&ldquo;Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn&rsquo;t there a
+alleybi?&rdquo;&nbsp; Are not all these and other particulars
+written in the chronicles of the &ldquo;Pickwick
+Papers&rdquo;?&mdash;See chapter 34.</p>
+<p>Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse
+direction of the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort),
+we come into the <b>Poultry</b>, at the farther end, passing a
+turning on the left therefrom, known as <span
+class="smcap">Grocers&rsquo; Hall Court</span>.&nbsp; It will be
+remembered that on one occasion when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet
+glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller, whose &ldquo;knowledge of
+London was extensive and peculiar,&rdquo; led the way from the
+Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to
+the last house but one on the same side of the way, where he
+directed his master to</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Take the box as stands in the first
+fireplace, &rsquo;cos there a&rsquo;n&rsquo;t no leg in the
+middle of the table.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find
+that this house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter,
+but it is recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the
+old-fashioned sort.&nbsp; Mr. Weller, the elder, was here
+introduced to his son&rsquo;s patron, and thereupon arranged for
+Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s journey to Ipswich.&nbsp; At the end of the
+Poultry we next approach, on the right, <b>The Mansion House</b>,
+mentioned in &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge&rdquo; as the residence of the
+Mayor of London.&nbsp; We read of this civic potentate in the
+pages of &ldquo;The Christmas Carol,&rdquo; when, one Christmas
+Eve,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the
+mighty Mansion House, gave orders to his fifty cooks and butlers
+to keep Christmas as a Lord Mayor&rsquo;s household
+should.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>Mark Tapley</i> also&mdash;in America&mdash;once made
+jocose reference <a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+30</span>to this location.&nbsp; When speaking of Queen Victoria,
+he informed certain members of the Watertoast Association to the
+following effect:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;She has lodgings, in virtue of her office,
+with the Lord Mayor at the Mansion House, but don&rsquo;t often
+occupy them, in consequence of the parlour chimney
+smoking.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Messrs. Dombey and Son</b> had their offices in the City,
+within the sound of Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion
+House.&nbsp; Their position was probably in proximity to <i>The
+Royal Exchange</i>, but the address cannot be definitely
+indicated.&nbsp; Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme,
+and schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the
+prosperity of the house.</p>
+<p>The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the
+thriving establishment of the well-known merchant
+tailors&mdash;<span class="smcap">Dombey &amp;
+Son</span>&mdash;will be found at No. 120 <i>Cheapside</i>, at
+which a large and well-conducted business is carried on.</p>
+<p>From this point we may conveniently visit &ldquo;His
+Lordship&rsquo;s Larder&rdquo; (at three minutes&rsquo;
+distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh,
+&ldquo;rest, and be thankful.&rdquo;</p>
+<h2><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>RAMBLE
+III<br />
+<i>Charing Cross to Thavies Inn</i>, <i>Holborn Circus</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">South-Eastern Terminus&mdash;Spa Road
+Station&mdash;Jacob&rsquo;s Island; Sykes&rsquo;s last
+Refuge&mdash;Butler&rsquo;s Wharf, formerly Quilp&rsquo;s
+Wharf&mdash;Quilp&rsquo;s House, Tower Hill&mdash;Trinity House
+and Garden; Bella Wilfer&rsquo;s Waiting-place&mdash;Southwark
+Bridge; Little Dorrit&rsquo;s Promenade&mdash;The General Post
+Office&mdash;Falcon Hotel, Falcon Square; John Jasper&rsquo;s
+patronage&mdash;Little Britain; Office of Mr.
+Jaggers&mdash;Smithfield&mdash;Newgate Prison; Pip&rsquo;s
+description in &ldquo;Great Expectations&rdquo;&mdash;The Old
+Bailey Criminal Court, as per &ldquo;Tale of Two
+Cities&rdquo;&mdash;The Saracen&rsquo;s Head; Associations with
+Nicholas Nickleby&mdash;Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his
+Companions&mdash;Scene of the Robbery&mdash;Line of Route taken
+by Oliver and &ldquo;The Artful Dodger&rdquo; from the Angel to
+Saffron Hill&mdash;Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of
+Mr. Fang&mdash;Great Saffron Hill and Field
+Lane&mdash;Fagin&rsquo;s House and the &ldquo;Three
+Cripples&rdquo;&mdash;Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and
+Clennam; the Plornish Family&mdash;Ely Place&mdash;Thavies Inn;
+Mrs. Jellyby&rsquo;s Residence.</p>
+<p>From the <span class="smcap">South-Eastern Terminus</span> at
+Charing Cross there are frequent trains by which the Rambler can
+travel to <i>Spa Road Station</i>, <i>Bermondsey</i> (about
+twenty minutes&rsquo; ride), from which point the situation of
+what was once Jacob&rsquo;s Island may be conveniently
+visited.&nbsp; This place was associated with the adventures of
+<i>Oliver Twist</i>, being the last refuge to which <i>Sykes</i>,
+the murderer of <i>Nancy</i>, betook himself on his return to
+London, and where he met a righteous retribution when attempting
+his escape.&nbsp; It is described by Dickens&mdash;nearly sixty
+years since&mdash;as being</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Near to that part of the Thames on which
+the church at Rotherhithe abuts, where the buildings on the banks
+are dirtiest, and the vessels on the river blackest, with the
+dust of colliers and the smoke of close-built, low-roofed
+houses.&nbsp; In such a neighbourhood, beyond Dockhead, in the
+borough of Southwark, stands Jacob&rsquo;s Island, <a
+name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>surrounded by
+a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or twenty wide
+when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in the days
+of this story as Folly Ditch.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Arriving at <i>Spa Road</i>, the explorer turns left and right
+by the short routes of <i>West Street South</i>, <i>Fream
+Street</i>, and <i>Rouel Road</i>, into <i>Jamaica Road</i> (five
+minutes from station); passing from the opposite side of which,
+through <i>Parker&rsquo;s Row</i> to the thoroughfare of
+<i>Dockhead</i>, he will find himself face to face with a tavern
+on the north side, named &ldquo;The Swan and Sugar
+Loaf.&rdquo;&nbsp; A short cut on the right of this house leads
+immediately to <span class="smcap">London Street</span>, its
+northern side forming the south boundary of the old site of
+<b>Jacob&rsquo;s Island</b>.&nbsp; <i>Folly Ditch</i>, flowing
+from the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through
+London Street (it has been filled in since 1851); and in these
+streets wooden bridges crossed to the Island, and &ldquo;crazy
+wooden galleries, common to the backs of half-a-dozen
+houses&rdquo;&mdash;referred to by the novelist&mdash;used to
+&ldquo;ornament the banks of Folly Ditch.&rdquo;&nbsp; To the
+right we pass into <i>George Row</i>, enclosing Jacob&rsquo;s
+Island (east), and may note <i>en passant</i> the blocks of
+workmen&rsquo;s dwellings, erected 1883, named
+&ldquo;Wolseley&rsquo;s Buildings,&rdquo; which occupy the site
+of the old Island on its eastern side.&nbsp; From George Row we
+turn (right) into <i>Jacob Street</i>, north of the Island, by
+which we come into <i>Mill Street</i> (west); again returning to
+<i>London Street</i>, and so completing the circumnavigation of
+this interesting locality.&nbsp; Some of the old wooden erections
+still exist in <i>Farthing Alley</i>, <i>Halfpenny Alley</i>, and
+<i>Edward Street</i>, which intersect the area.&nbsp; In his
+preface to the first cheap edition of &ldquo;Oliver Twist,&rdquo;
+the author makes a further reference, as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the year one thousand eight hundred and
+fifty, it was publicly declared in London by an amazing alderman,
+that Jacob&rsquo;s Island did not exist, and never had
+existed.&nbsp; Jacob&rsquo;s Island continues to exist (like an
+ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight hundred
+and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Starting westward from &ldquo;The Swan and Sugar Loaf,&rdquo;
+we now proceed through <i>Thornton Street</i>, and turn to the <a
+name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>right, by one
+block in the street beyond, into <i>Queen Street</i>, which leads
+directly north to the riverside.&nbsp; At the end of this street
+is the locality of <b>Quilp&rsquo;s Wharf</b> and place of
+business, aforetime described in the pages of &ldquo;The Old
+Curiosity Shop&rdquo;:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in
+which were a little wooden counting-house, burrowing all awry in
+the dust as if it had fallen from the clouds, and ploughed into
+the ground; a few fragments of rusty anchors, several large iron
+rings, some piles of rotten wood, and two or three heaps of old
+sheet copper&mdash;crumpled, cracked, and battered.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The place has been altogether altered and improved during the
+last forty years, and is now known as &ldquo;Butler&rsquo;s
+Wharf,&rdquo; but the original prototype of Quilp is still
+remembered by some of the older residents of the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>The westward route being continued by the side of the river,
+we walk through <i>Shad Thames</i> and <i>Pickle Herring
+Street</i> (underneath an archway) to <i>Vine Street</i>, where
+is the southern entrance of the <i>Tower Subway</i>, by which we
+may cross below the river to the other side.&nbsp; Emerging near
+the Tower, <b>Quilp&rsquo;s House</b>, on Tower Hill, is near at
+hand.&nbsp; No. 6 Tower Dock, facing the public entrance to the
+Tower, is said to have comprised the lodging assigned by Dickens
+for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Quilp and Mrs.
+Jiniwin.&nbsp; We may here recall the matrons&rsquo; tea-meeting,
+as described in chapter 4 of &ldquo;The Old Curiosity
+Shop,&rdquo; when Quilp&rsquo;s conduct as a husband was freely
+discussed, and much good advice tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the
+true assertion of her rights and dignity.&nbsp; Also the notable
+occasion when, the master of the house being missing and thought
+to be drowned, <i>Mr. Sampson Brass</i> was in consultation, and
+the party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a
+descriptive advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf,
+as lively and sarcastic as ever.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A question now arises with regard to his
+nose.&nbsp; &lsquo;Flat,&rsquo; said Mrs. Jiniwin.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Aquiline!&rsquo; cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and
+striking <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+34</span>the feature with his fist.&nbsp; &lsquo;Aquiline, you
+hag.&nbsp; Do you see it?&nbsp; Do you call this flat?&nbsp; Do
+you?&nbsp; Eh?&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Hard by this locality stands <b>Trinity House</b>, <b>Tower
+Hill</b>, with its garden in front, and it may be remembered that
+<i>Mr. Wilfer</i> suggested this neighbourhood as a waiting-place
+for Bella, on the occasion of their &ldquo;innocent
+elopement&rdquo; to Greenwich, while he should array himself in
+new garments at her expense, to do honour to the
+expedition.&nbsp; We now turn westward by <i>Tower Street</i>,
+and may save time by taking train at <i>Mark Lane Station</i> for
+the Mansion House, about ten minutes&rsquo; ride.&nbsp; On
+arrival at the Mansion House Station we shall find <i>Queen
+Street</i> close at hand, leading riverwards to <b>Southwark
+Bridge</b>, referred to in &ldquo;Little Dorrit&rdquo; as the
+Iron Bridge.&nbsp; This was Amy Dorrit&rsquo;s favourite
+promenade, it being quieter than many of the neighbouring
+thoroughfares; and we may recall the scene when young <i>John
+Chivery</i> was obliged to take no for an answer, when he
+attempted the proffer of his hand and heart.</p>
+<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Cannon Street</i>, we turn to
+the right through <i>St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard</i>, crossing
+Cheapside to the stately edifice of the <b>General Post
+Office</b>, <i>St. Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand</i>.&nbsp; This
+building, in the times of &ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby,&rdquo;
+occasioned honest John Browdie some surprise:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Wa-at dost thee tak&rsquo; yon place to be,
+noo, that &rsquo;un ower the wa&rsquo;?&nbsp; Ye&rsquo;d never
+coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s
+na but a Poast-office.&nbsp; Ho, ho! they need to charge for
+double latthers.&nbsp; A Poast-office!&nbsp; What dost thee think
+of that?&nbsp; Ecod, if that&rsquo;s on&rsquo;y a Poast-office,
+loike to see where the Lord Mayor o&rsquo; Lunnon
+lives!&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>Aldersgate Street</i> leads northward from St.
+Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand; passing the first block in which,
+<i>Falcon Street</i> turns on the right (No. 16) towards
+<i>Falcon Square</i>, a small city piazza, where may be found
+(No. 8) <b>The Falcon Hotel</b>.&nbsp; This is the place at which
+John Jasper sojourned when visiting London.&nbsp; In &ldquo;The
+Mystery of Edwin Drood&rdquo; we read the following commendation
+of the house in question:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+35</span>&ldquo;It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at
+its visitor&rsquo;s option.&nbsp; It announces itself, in the new
+Railway advertisers, as a novel enterprise, timidly beginning to
+spring up.&nbsp; It bashfully, almost apologetically, gives the
+traveller to understand that it does not expect him, on the good
+old constitutional hotel plan, to order a pint of sweet blacking
+for his drinking, and throw it away; but insinuates that he may
+have his boots blacked instead of his stomach, and may also have
+bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all night, for a
+certain fixed charge.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the
+opposite turning, leading to Smithfield, is <i>Little
+Britain</i>.&nbsp; In &ldquo;Great Expectations&rdquo; we learn
+that the <b>Offices of Mr. Jaggers</b>, the Old Bailey lawyer,
+were here situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but
+the house cannot be precisely indicated.&nbsp; Here <i>Mr.
+Wemmick</i> assisted his Principal in the details of his
+professional business.&nbsp; He may be remembered as having a
+decided preference for &ldquo;portable property.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Proceeding onward by <i>Duke Street</i>, the visitor will
+shortly come into <b>Smithfield</b>, a locality which is
+considerably changed since the days when Pip first arrived in
+London.&nbsp; He says&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When I told the clerk that I would take a
+turn in the air while I waited, he advised me to go round the
+corner and I should come into Smithfield.&nbsp; So I came into
+Smithfield; and the shameful place, being all asmear with filth,
+and fat, and blood, and foam, seemed to stick to me.&nbsp; So, I
+rubbed it off with all possible speed by turning into a street
+where I saw the great black dome of Saint Paul&rsquo;s bulging at
+me from behind a grim stone building which a bystander said was
+Newgate Prison.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Adopting the same line of route, the Rambler may pass the
+south front of the Metropolitan Meat Market, turning to the left
+by St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s Hospital into <i>Giltspur Street</i>,
+which leads to Newgate Street, and faces on the opposite corner
+of Old Bailey <b>Newgate Prison</b>.&nbsp; In &ldquo;Great
+Expectations,&rdquo; Pip describes his visit to the interior, at
+the invitation and in the company of Mr. Wemmick:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+36</span>&ldquo;We passed through the Lodge, where some fetters
+were hanging up, on the bare walls among the prison rules, into
+the interior of the jail.&nbsp; At that time jails were much
+neglected, and the period of exaggerated reaction consequent on
+all public wrong-doing&mdash;and which is always its longest and
+heaviest punishment&mdash;was still far off.&nbsp; So, felons
+were not lodged and fed better than soldiers (to say nothing of
+paupers), and seldom set fire to their prisons with the excusable
+object of improving the flavour of their soup.&nbsp; It was
+visiting-time when Wemmick took me in, and a potman was going his
+rounds with beer, and the prisoners behind bars in yards were
+buying beer and talking to friends; and a frowsy, ugly,
+disorderly, depressing scene it was.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Again, it may be remarked that things have much improved since
+the good old days.&nbsp; <i>Inter alia</i>, the principles and
+rules of prison management and discipline have greatly changed
+for the better.</p>
+<p>In the tale of &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge&rdquo; is the narrative of
+the burning of Newgate and the liberation of the prisoners by the
+rioters (1780), on which occasion it will be remembered that our
+old friend Gabriel Varden was somewhat roughly handled.&nbsp; For
+full particulars, see chapter 64.</p>
+<p>Immediately south of Newgate is the adjacent Central Criminal
+Court of <b>The Old Bailey</b>, the scene of Charles
+Darnay&rsquo;s trial in &ldquo;The Tale of Two
+Cities.&rdquo;&nbsp; At the time there described
+(1775)&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Old Bailey was famous as a kind of
+deadly Inn yard, from which pale travellers set out continually,
+in carts and coaches, on a violent passage to the other world,
+traversing some two miles and a half of public street and road,
+and shaming few good citizens, if any.&nbsp; So powerful is use,
+and so desirable to be good use in the beginning.&nbsp; It was
+famous, too, for the pillory, a wise old institution, that
+inflicted a punishment of which no one could foresee the extent;
+also for the whipping-post, another dear old institution, very
+humanising and softening to behold in action; also for extensive
+transactions in blood-money, another fragment of ancestral
+wisdom.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Facing eastward from Newgate Street is the <i>Holborn
+Viaduct</i>, which has for many years superseded the old
+ascending and descending road of Holborn Hill.</p>
+<p><b>The Saracen&rsquo;s Head</b>, the old coaching-house on
+Snow Hill, with which we have been familiar from the days of <a
+name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+37</span>&ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby,&rdquo; as the headquarters of
+Mr. Squeers, has disappeared since 1868, having been pulled down
+long ago, with many other buildings of this neighbourhood, giving
+room to the great improvements which have taken place in this
+part of London.&nbsp; Hereabouts it stood, on a lower level, not
+far from St. Sepulchre&rsquo;s Church&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Just on that particular part of Snow Hill
+where omnibus horses going eastward seriously think of falling
+down on purpose, and horses in hackney cabriolets going westward
+not unfrequently fall by accident.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The present <i>Police Station</i>, Snow Hill, stands on part
+of the site formerly occupied by this old hostelry.</p>
+<p>This modern thoroughfare of Snow Hill commences at the first
+turning on the right, in which has been erected a commodious
+hotel of the same name (No. 10), where, by the aid of a little
+refreshment and a slight exercise of imagination, we may recall
+the departure of Nicholas for Dotheboy&rsquo;s Hall, Greta
+Bridge, by the Yorkshire coach, with Mr. Squeers and the pupils;
+also the later arrival in London of Mr. and Mrs. Browdie,
+accompanied by the lovely Fanny as bridesmaid, and the first
+meeting of Nicholas with Frank Cheeryble, newly returned from
+Continental travel.</p>
+<p>Snow Hill leads to the lower level of <i>Farringdon Road</i>,
+at a point immediately north of the Holborn Viaduct spanning the
+thoroughfare, in which, turning to the right, we walk onwards to
+the intersection of <i>Clerkenwell Road</i> (eight minutes&rsquo;
+work).&nbsp; On the right hand, across the railway, is
+<b>Clerkenwell Green</b>, referred to in &ldquo;Oliver
+Twist&rdquo; as</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;That open square in Clerkenwell which is
+yet called by some strange perversion of terms The
+Green.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It was near this place that little Oliver became enlightened
+as to the business of Charley Bates and the Artful Dodger.&nbsp;
+We read that the boys, traversing a narrow court in this
+neighbourhood, came out opposite a bookstall, where Mr. Brownlow
+was reading, abstracted from all other mundane considerations, so
+affording &ldquo;a prime plant&rdquo; for the <a
+name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>operations of
+these light-fingered gentlemen.&nbsp; This court leads from the
+road opposite the Sessions House into <i>Pear Tree Court</i>,
+giving into the main road at some distance beyond, at which the
+scene above referred to was enacted.</p>
+<p>Walking onwards by the <i>King&rsquo;s Cross Road</i> we soon
+come to the point where <i>Exmouth Street</i> joins it from the
+east, facing the south-east angle of the House of
+Correction.&nbsp; Here we strike into the route taken by Oliver
+Twist when he first came from Barnet to London, under the escort
+of <i>Mr. John Dawkins</i>.&nbsp; The text of the story is as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They crossed from the &lsquo;Angel&rsquo;
+into St. John&rsquo;s Road, struck down the small street which
+terminates at Sadler&rsquo;s Wells Theatre, through Exmouth
+Street and Coppice Row, down the little court by the side of the
+Workhouse, across the classic ground which once bore the name of
+Hockley-in-the-Hole, thence into Little Saffron Hill, and so into
+Saffron Hill the Great.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Following the line thus indicated from Exmouth Street, we come
+on the south side of the Workhouse, nearly opposite Little
+Saffron Hill, which leads into <i>Great Saffron Hill</i> as
+above.&nbsp; Crossing <i>Clerkenwell Road</i>, and proceeding for
+a short distance down Great Saffron Hill, we arrive at the cross
+street of <i>Hatton Wall</i>, in which, past two doors to the
+left on the south side, will be found&mdash;between the <i>Hat
+and Tun Inn</i> and No. 17 beyond&mdash;the entrance of <span
+class="smcap">Hatton Yard</span>, a long narrow lane or mews
+(leading to <i>Kirby Street</i>), occupied by carmen and
+stabling.&nbsp; In this eligible position was situated, some
+fifty years since, &ldquo;the very notorious <b>Metropolitan
+Police Court</b>&rdquo; to which Oliver Twist was taken on the
+charge of theft; and we may here recall the administration of the
+presiding magistrate, the notable Mr. Fang, as shown in the
+examination of the prisoner.</p>
+<p>The premises (No. 9, on the left) once formed part and parcel
+of the police court referred to; but the arrangements of the
+neighbourhood have been subjected to much alteration during the
+last half century.&nbsp; Mr. Forster states that Dickens
+&ldquo;had himself a satisfaction in admitting the <a
+name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>identity of
+Mr. Fang, in &lsquo;Oliver Twist,&rsquo; with Mr. Laing of Hatton
+Garden.&rdquo;&nbsp; In a letter (now in possession of Mr. S. R.
+Goodman, of Brighton) written to Mr. Haines, Reporter, June 3rd,
+1838, Dickens writes as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In my next number of &lsquo;Oliver
+Twist&rsquo; I must have a magistrate; and, casting about for a
+magistrate whose harshness and insolence would render him a fit
+subject to be <i>shown up</i>, I have as a necessary consequence
+stumbled upon Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden celebrity.&nbsp; I know
+the man&rsquo;s character perfectly well; but as it would be
+necessary to describe his personal appearance also, I ought to
+have seen him, which (fortunately or unfortunately as the case
+may be) I have never done.&nbsp; In this dilemma it occurred to
+me that perhaps I might under your auspices be smuggled into the
+Hatton Garden office for a few moments some morning.&nbsp; If you
+can further my object I shall be really very greatly obliged to
+you.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>&ldquo;The opportunity was found; the magistrate was brought
+up before the novelist; and shortly after, on some fresh outbreak
+of intolerable temper, the Home Secretary found it an easy and
+popular step to remove Mr. Laing from the Bench.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Returning to <span class="smcap">Great Saffron Hill</span>, we
+may recall its description as given in the days of &ldquo;Oliver
+Twist&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The street was very narrow and muddy, and
+the air was impregnated with filthy odours.&nbsp; The sole places
+that seemed to prosper amid the general blight of the place were
+the public-houses, and in them the lowest orders of the Irish
+were wrangling with might and main.&nbsp; Covered ways and yards,
+which here and there diverged from the main street, disclosed
+little knots of houses where drunken men and women were
+positively wallowing in filth.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Field Lane</b>, in the immediate vicinity, <i>was</i></p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Near to that spot on which Snow Hill and
+Holborn Hill meet . . a narrow dismal alley leading to Saffron
+Hill.&nbsp; In its filthy shops are exposed for sale huge bunches
+of second-hand silk handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns, for
+here reside the traders who purchase them from the
+pickpockets.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This place has been effaced by the Holborn Valley
+improvements, and we may now look in vain for the precise
+locality of the house of <i>Fagin</i> the Jew.&nbsp; In this <a
+name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>neighbourhood
+also was situated &ldquo;The Three Cripples,&rdquo; a
+public-house of evil repute patronised by Sykes, Fagin, and
+Monks.&nbsp; We may recall the circumstance of <i>Mr. Morris
+Bolter&rsquo;s</i> (<i>alias</i> Noah Claypole&rsquo;s) arrival
+at this house, when he and <i>Charlotte</i> first came to London,
+and of his subsequent interview with the wily Jew.</p>
+<p>It is pleasant to remark that Saffron Hill has greatly
+improved in its character since the above-quoted description was
+correct.&nbsp; It now affords accommodation for the headquarters
+of the <i>Central Shoeblacks&rsquo; Society</i> (as established
+under the auspices of the late Earl of Shaftesbury), and about
+midway in the street where thieves &ldquo;did once
+inhabit,&rdquo; a large <i>Board School</i> is doing good
+educational service for the elevation of the humbler classes.</p>
+<p>Turning from Great Saffron Hill westward by the <i>One Tun</i>
+public-house, we come into <i>Charles Street</i>, on the south
+side of which, towards Hatton Garden, is <b>Bleeding Hart
+Yard</b> (entrance by the Bleeding Hart Tavern, No. 19).&nbsp;
+This locality is associated with the tale of &ldquo;Little
+Dorrit.&rdquo;&nbsp; It will be remembered that here the factory
+of <i>Messrs. Doyce and Clennam</i> was situated, and here also
+resided <i>Mr. and Mrs. Plornish</i>, the humble friends of the
+Dorrit family.&nbsp; In these degenerate days the place has much
+altered, and the amiable <i>Mr. Casby</i> would certainly find it
+more difficult than ever to collect his weekly dues, even by the
+agency of his energetic assistant, Mr. Pancks.</p>
+<p>Passing from this unpretending locality, we come (at No. 8)
+into <i>Hatton Garden</i>, which leads southward to <i>Holborn
+Circus</i>.</p>
+<p>In Hatton Garden, on the east side, can be observed (No. 20)
+the old-established warehouse of <b>Messrs. Rowland and
+Son</b>.&nbsp; In this connection there may be remembered the mad
+old gentleman &ldquo;in small clothes,&rdquo; who lived next door
+to the <i>Nicklebys</i>, at Bow.&nbsp; On the only occasion of
+his visiting the family indoors, he incidentally referred to
+&ldquo;Mrs. Rowland, who, every <a name="page41"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 41</span>morning, bathes in Kalydor for
+nothing.&rdquo;&mdash;See &ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby,&rdquo;
+chapter 49.</p>
+<p><b>Mr. Waterbrook&rsquo;s</b> establishment, situated in
+<i>Ely Place</i>, <i>Holborn</i>, is entitled to passing mention
+as the place where David and his friend Traddles met each other
+for the first time after their schoolboy days, on the occasion of
+a dinner-party, at which also <i>Agnes Wickfield</i> and <i>Uriah
+Heep</i> attended.&nbsp; Ely Place is situated on the north side
+of <span class="smcap">Holborn Circus</span>, and once comprised
+the rose garden of the Bishop of Ely, afterwards leased to Sir
+Christopher Hatton.</p>
+<p>On the opposite side of the Circus, and near to St.
+Andrew&rsquo;s Church, is situated <b>Thavies Inn</b>, in which
+<i>Mrs. Jellyby</i> and family resided, in the days when her
+daughter <i>Caddy</i> acted as amanuensis <i>in re</i> the
+affairs of Borrioboola-Gha.</p>
+<p>It is described in &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; as being</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A narrow street of high houses like an
+oblong cistern to hold the fog.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The house No. 13, on the right, has been indicated as once the
+disorderly residence of the Jellyby family.&nbsp; We may
+recollect it as the place where <i>Esther Summerson</i> and
+<i>Ada</i> were accommodated for their first night in London, on
+which occasion little unfortunate <i>Peepy</i> was found with his
+head between the area railings, and the house generally turned
+upside down; while Mrs. Jellyby serenely dictated her
+correspondence in the family sitting-room, altogether oblivious
+of such minor domestic accidents.</p>
+<p>Esther thus narrates her first impressions:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mrs. Jellyby had very good hair, but was
+too much occupied with her African duties to brush it.&nbsp; The
+shawl in which she had been loosely muffled dropped on to her
+chair, when she advanced towards us; and, as she turned to resume
+her seat, we could not help noticing that her dress didn&rsquo;t
+nearly meet up the back, and that the open space was railed
+across with a lattice work of staylace&mdash;like a summer house.
+. . .&nbsp; &lsquo;You find me, my dears,&rsquo; said Mrs.
+Jellyby, &lsquo;as usual, very busy; but that you will
+excuse.&nbsp; The African project at present employs my whole
+time. . . .&nbsp; We hope by this time next year to have from a
+hundred <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+42</span>and fifty to two hundred healthy families cultivating
+coffee and educating the natives of Borrioboola-Gha, on the left
+bank of the Niger.&rdquo;&mdash;See &ldquo;Bleak House,&rdquo;
+chapter 4.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>The Buffet of Messrs. Spiers and Pond</i> will be found a
+short distance eastward from Holborn Circus, on the right, next
+the terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover railway.&nbsp; A
+visit to its welcome &ldquo;contiguity of shade&rdquo; is
+confidently recommended to those who may be disposed for
+necessary rest and refreshment.</p>
+<h2><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>RAMBLE
+IV<br />
+<i>Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court Road</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Langdale&rsquo;s
+Distillery&mdash;Barnard&rsquo;s Inn; Pip&rsquo;s
+Chambers&mdash;Furnival&rsquo;s Inn; Dickens&rsquo;s and John
+Westlock&rsquo;s Apartments&mdash;Staple Inn; Mr.
+Grewgious&rsquo;s Chambers, P.J.T.; Rooms of Neville Landless and
+Mr. Tartar; &ldquo;The Magic Bean-Stalk
+Country&rdquo;&mdash;Gray&rsquo;s Inn; Mr. and Mrs. Traddles and
+&ldquo;the girls;&rdquo; Offices of Mr. Perker&mdash;The Bull
+Inn; Scene of Lewsome&rsquo;s Illness&mdash;Kingsgate Street;
+Poll Sweedlepipe&rsquo;s Shop; Sairey Gamp&rsquo;s
+Apartments&mdash;Mrs. Billickin&rsquo;s Lodgings in Southampton
+Street; Miss Twinkleton and Rosa Budd&mdash;Bloomsbury Square;
+Lord Mansfield&rsquo;s Residence&mdash;Queen Square&mdash;The
+Children&rsquo;s Hospital; Johnny&rsquo;s Will&mdash;Foundling
+Hospital; &ldquo;No Thoroughfare;&rdquo; Walter
+Wilding&mdash;&ldquo;The Boot Tavern&rdquo;&mdash;No. 48 Doughty
+Street&mdash;Tavistock House, Tavistock Square&mdash;Mrs.
+Dickens&rsquo;s Establishment, No. 4 Gower Street, North; Mrs.
+Wilfer&rsquo;s Doorplate&mdash;No. 1 Devonshire Terrace&mdash;Mr.
+Merdle&rsquo;s House, Harley Street&mdash;Mr. Dombey&rsquo;s
+House&mdash;Madame Mantalini&rsquo;s, Wigmore
+Street&mdash;Wimpole Street; Mr. Boffin&rsquo;s West-end
+Residence&mdash;Welbeck Street; Lord George Gordon&rsquo;s
+Residence&mdash;Brook Street, Claridge&rsquo;s Hotel; Mr.
+Dorrit&rsquo;s Return&mdash;Devonshire House; Guild of Literature
+and Art&mdash;Hatchett&rsquo;s Hotel; White Horse Cellars; Mr.
+Guppy in attendance&mdash;193 Piccadilly; Messrs. Chapman and
+Hall&mdash;Golden Square; Ralph Nickleby&rsquo;s
+Office&mdash;Apartments of the Kenwigs family&mdash;The Crown
+Inn&mdash;&ldquo;Martha&rsquo;s&rdquo; Lodgings&mdash;Newman
+Street; Mr. Turveydrop&rsquo;s Academy&mdash;Carlisle House;
+Doctor Manette and Lucie.</p>
+<p>From <span class="smcap">Holborn Circus</span> the Rambler now
+proceeds westward by the main thoroughfare of <i>Holborn</i>,
+passing <i>Fetter Lane</i> on the left, and arrives at (No. 26)
+the old premises, now partially rebuilt, formerly
+<b>Langdale&rsquo;s Distillery</b>.&nbsp; Half of the same
+remains (at the moment), but will shortly be superseded by a
+modern building.&nbsp; The eastern portion is occupied by Messrs.
+<a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>Buchanan,
+whisky merchants, who have recently purchased the premises.&nbsp;
+This establishment was sacked (1780) by the Gordon rioters.&nbsp;
+Mr. Langdale being a Catholic, was obnoxious to the No-Popery
+mob; and the stores of liquor at this distillery afforded an
+additional temptation for the attack.&nbsp; The terrible scenes
+enacted on the occasion are powerfully described in
+&ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; chapters 67 and 68&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At this place a large detachment of
+soldiery were posted, who fired, now up Fleet Market, now up
+Holborn, now up Snow Hill&mdash;constantly raking the streets in
+each direction.&nbsp; At this place too, several large fires were
+burning, so that all the terrors of that terrible night seemed to
+be concentrated in one spot.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Full twenty times, the rioters, headed by one man who
+wielded an axe in his right hand, and bestrode a brewer&rsquo;s
+horse of great size and strength, caparisoned with fetters taken
+out of Newgate, which clanked and jingled as he went, made an
+attempt to force a passage at this point, and fire the
+vintner&rsquo;s house.&nbsp; Full twenty times they were repulsed
+with loss of life, and still came back again; and though the
+fellow at their head was marked and singled out by all, and was a
+conspicuous object as the only rioter on horseback, not a man
+could hit him. . . .</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The vintner&rsquo;s house, with half-a-dozen others
+near at hand, was one great, glowing blaze.&nbsp; All night, no
+one had essayed to quench the flames, or stop their progress; but
+now a body of soldiers were actively engaged in pulling down two
+old wooden houses, which were every moment in danger of taking
+fire, and which could scarcely fail, if they were left to burn,
+to extend the conflagration immensely.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;. . .&nbsp; The gutters of the street, and every crack
+and fissure in the stones, ran with scorching spirit, which being
+dammed up by busy hands, overflowed the road and pavement, and
+formed a great pool, into which the people dropped down dead by
+dozens.&nbsp; They lay in heaps all round this fearful pond,
+husbands and wives, fathers and sons, mothers and daughters,
+women with children in their arms and babies at their breasts,
+and drank until they died.&nbsp; While some stooped with their
+lips to the brink and never raised their heads again, others
+sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced, half in a mad
+triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell,
+and steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them. . .
+.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;On this last night of the great riots&mdash;for the
+last night it was&mdash;the wretched victims of a senseless
+outcry, became themselves the dust and ashes of the flames they
+had kindled, and strewed the public streets of London.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>It will
+be remembered that Mr. Langdale and Mr. Haredale, being in the
+house that night, were rescued by Edward Chester and Joe Willett,
+all four finding their way to safety by a back entrance.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The narrow lane in the rear was quite free
+of people.&nbsp; So, when they had crawled through the passage
+indicated by the vintner (which was a mere shelving-trap for the
+admission of casks), and had managed with some difficulty to
+unchain and raise the door at the upper end, they emerged into
+the street without being observed or interrupted.&nbsp; Joe still
+holding Mr. Haredale tight, and Edward taking the same care of
+the vintner, they hurried through the streets at a rapid
+pace.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This door gives into Fetter Lane (No. 79), and still exists
+for the inspection of the curious.&nbsp; The old house in Holborn
+has, for more than a century, replaced the premises so
+destroyed.&nbsp; Close at hand (by No. 23) is the entrance to
+<b>Barnard&rsquo;s Inn</b>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The dingiest collection of shabby buildings
+ever squeezed together in a rank corner as a club for
+tom-cats.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The locality is referred to in these complimentary terms by
+Mr. Pip (in the pages of &ldquo;Great Expectations&rdquo;), who
+lived here with his friend Herbert Pocket for a short time when
+he first came to London.&nbsp; Mr. Joe Gargery&rsquo;s verdict is
+worth remembrance:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The present may be a wery good inn, and I
+believe its character do stand i; but I wouldn&rsquo;t keep a pig
+in it myself, not in the case that I wished him to fatten
+wholesome, and to eat with a meller flavour on him.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Pip further describes as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We entered this haven through a
+wicket-gate, and were disgorged by an introductory passage into a
+melancholy little square that looked to me like a flat
+burying-ground.&nbsp; I thought it had the most dismal trees in
+it, and the most dismal sparrows, and the most dismal cats, and
+the most dismal houses (in number half-a-dozen or so), that I had
+ever seen. . . .&nbsp; A frowzy mourning of soot and smoke
+attired this forlorn creation of Barnard, and it had strewed
+ashes on its head, and was undergoing penance and humiliation as
+a mere dust-hole.&nbsp; Thus for my sense of sight; while dry
+rot, and wet rot, and all the silent <a name="page46"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 46</span>rots that rot in neglected root and
+cellar&mdash;rot of rat, and mouse, and bug, and coaching stables
+near at hand besides&mdash;addressed themselves faintly to my
+sense of smell, and moaned, &lsquo;Try Barnard&rsquo;s
+Mixture.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Great alterations are now (1899) being carried out; the old
+buildings&mdash;as above referred to by Mr. Pip&mdash;have been
+demolished, and a new and better arrangement of the locality is
+in active progress for the improvement of the neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>On the opposite side of Holborn are the handsome and extensive
+offices of <span class="smcap">The Prudential Assurance
+Company</span>.&nbsp; These premises, with their frontage, occupy
+the site of <span class="smcap">Furnival&rsquo;s Inn</span>,
+which has recently disappeared, having been pulled down to make
+room for the extension of the Assurance offices above referred
+to&mdash;<i>Sic transit memoria mundi</i>.</p>
+<p><b>Furnival&rsquo;s Inn</b> was an interesting locality, as
+associated with the earlier experience of Mr. Dickens
+himself.&nbsp; Here the young author resided in 1835, the year
+previous to the production of the &ldquo;Pickwick Papers,&rdquo;
+the first number of that work being published April 1,
+1836.&nbsp; On the day following that notable date, Mr. Dickens
+married Miss Catherine Hogarth; and for some time the young
+couple resided on the third floor apartments at <i>No.</i> 15
+<i>Furnival&rsquo;s Inn</i>&mdash;on the right side of the
+square.&nbsp; A personal reminiscence of these early days is no
+doubt intended in chapter 59 of &ldquo;David Copperfield;&rdquo;
+a pleasant description being there given of the residential
+chambers of Mr. and Mrs. Traddles, as located in Gray&rsquo;s Inn
+just beyond.</p>
+<p><i>Mr. John Westlock</i> had his bachelor apartments in this
+same place at Furnival&rsquo;s Inn (<i>vide</i> &ldquo;Martin
+Chuzzlewit&rdquo;), and here he received the unexpected visit of
+Tom Pinch on his first arrival in London.&nbsp; We may remember
+the incidents of that cordial welcome, when</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;John was constantly running backwards and
+forwards to and from the closet, bringing out all sorts of things
+in pots, scooping extraordinary quantities of tea out of the
+caddy, dropping French rolls into his boots, pouring hot water
+over the butter, and making a variety of similar mistakes,
+without disconcerting himself in the least.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>In the
+centre of the interior square, standing within the precincts of
+Furnival&rsquo;s Inn during the past seventy-five years, and
+flourishing in recent days&mdash;a quiet oasis of retirement and
+good cheer amidst the bustle and noise of central
+London&mdash;there existed (until 1895) <b>Woods&rsquo;
+Hotel</b>.&nbsp; This hotel was associated with &ldquo;The
+Mystery of Edwin Drood,&rdquo; being the house at which Mr.
+Grewgious found accommodation for the charming Rosa Budd (on the
+occasion of her flight from the importunities of Jasper at
+Cloisterham), including an &ldquo;unlimited head
+chambermaid&rdquo; for her special behoof and benefit.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Rosa&rsquo;s room was airy, clean,
+comfortable, almost gay.&nbsp; The Unlimited had laid in
+everything omitted from the very little bag (that is to say,
+everything she could possibly need), and Rosa tripped down the
+great many stairs again, to thank her guardian for his thoughtful
+and affectionate care of her.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Not at all, my dear,&rsquo; said Mr. Grewgious,
+infinitely gratified; &lsquo;it is I who thank you for your
+charming confidence and for your charming company.&nbsp; Your
+breakfast will be provided for you in a neat, compact, and
+graceful little sitting-room (appropriate to your figure), and I
+will come to you at ten o&rsquo;clock in the morning.&nbsp; I
+hope you don&rsquo;t feel very strange indeed, in this strange
+place.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Oh no, I feel so safe!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Yes, you may be sure that the stairs are
+fire-proof,&rsquo; said Mr. Grewgious, &lsquo;and that any
+outbreak of the devouring element would be perceived and
+suppressed by the watchmen.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;I did not mean that,&rsquo; Rosa replied.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;I mean, I feel so safe from him.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;There is a stout gate of iron bars to keep him
+out,&rsquo; said Mr. Grewgious smiling; &lsquo;and
+Furnival&rsquo;s is fire-proof, and specially watched and
+lighted, and <i>I</i> live over the way!&rsquo;&nbsp; In the
+stoutness of his knight-errantry, he seemed to think the
+last-named protection all-sufficient.&nbsp; In the same spirit he
+said to the gate-porter as he went out, &lsquo;If some one
+staying in the hotel should wish to send across the road to me in
+the night, a crown will be ready for the messenger.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+In the same spirit, he walked up and down outside the iron gate
+for the best part of an hour, with some solicitude; occasionally
+looking in between the bars, as if he had laid a dove in a high
+roost in a cage of lions, and had it on his mind that she might
+tumble out.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The Hotel was originally built 1818&ndash;19, and was enlarged
+as recently as 1884.&nbsp; Woods was the proprietor for fifty
+years.</p>
+<p><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+48</span>Crossing to the other side of the street, at a short
+distance onwards, opposite Gray&rsquo;s Inn Road, the Rambler
+reaches (by No. 334 High Holborn) the gateway of <b>Staple
+Inn</b>; a little nook, composed of two irregular quadrangles
+behind the most ancient part of Holborn, where certain gabled
+houses, some centuries of age, still stand looking on the public
+way.&nbsp; Staple Inn was the favourite summer promenade of the
+meditative <i>Mr. Snagsby</i> (see &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo;);
+and in this Inn <i>Mr. Grewgious</i> occupied a set of
+chambers.&nbsp; The house is No. 10, in the inner quadrangle,
+&ldquo;presenting in black and white, over its ugly portal, the
+mysterious inscription, &lsquo;P. J. T., 1747.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+Perhaps John Thomas, or Perhaps Joe Tyler.&rdquo;&nbsp; And,
+under certain social conditions, &ldquo;for a certainty, P. J. T.
+was Pretty Jolly Too.&rdquo;&nbsp; <i>Neville Landless</i> also
+had rooms in this locality; the top set in the corner (on the
+right), overlooking the garden &ldquo;where a few smoky sparrows
+twitter in the smoky trees, as though they had called to each
+other, &lsquo;let us play at country.&rsquo;&rdquo;&nbsp; Close
+to these lived <i>Mr. Tartar</i>, in &ldquo;the neatest, the
+cleanest, and the best-ordered chambers ever seen under the sun,
+moon, and stars.&rdquo;&nbsp; And we may recall the
+writer&rsquo;s delicate treatment of this, the blushing
+&ldquo;beanstalk country&rdquo; of dear little Rosa Budd.&nbsp;
+For the several associations herewith connected, reference should
+be made to our author&rsquo;s last book, &ldquo;The Mystery of
+Edwin Drood.&rdquo;&mdash;See concluding paragraphs of chapter
+21:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Rosa wondered what the girls would say if
+they could see her crossing the wide street on the sailor&rsquo;s
+arm.&nbsp; And she fancied that the passers-by must think her
+very little and very helpless, contrasted with the strong figure
+that could have caught her up and carried her out of any danger,
+miles and miles without resting.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;She was thinking further, that his far-seeing blue eyes
+looked as if they had been used to watch danger afar off, and to
+watch it without flinching, drawing nearer and nearer: when,
+happening to raise her own eyes, she found that he seemed to be
+thinking something about <i>them</i>.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This a little confused Rosebud, and may account for her
+never afterwards quite knowing how she ascended (with his help)
+to his garden in the air, and seemed to get into a marvellous
+country that <a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+49</span>came into sudden bloom like the country on the summit of
+the magic bean-stalk.&nbsp; May it flourish for ever!&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p48.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Doorway in Staple Inn"
+title=
+"Doorway in Staple Inn"
+src="images/p48.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In this connection, the reader may be interested in chapter
+22; the first part of which deals most tenderly and beautifully
+with &ldquo;love&rsquo;s awaking,&rdquo; in the heart of the
+innocent heroine.</p>
+<p>Recrossing to the other side of High Holborn, past
+<i>Gray&rsquo;s Inn Road</i> (on the north), at No. 22, we reach
+the gateway of <span class="smcap">Gray&rsquo;s Inn</span>.&nbsp;
+At No. 2 South Square (formerly Holborn Court) we may find the
+upper chambers formerly occupied by <i>Mr. Traddles</i> and his
+wife <i>Sophy</i>, whose domestic arrangements included
+accommodation for &ldquo;the beauty&rdquo; and the other
+Devonshire sisters.&nbsp; Copperfield says, in the chapter before
+referred to:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;If I had beheld a thousand roses blowing in
+a top set of chambers, in that withered Gray&rsquo;s Inn, they
+could not have brightened it half so much.&nbsp; The idea of
+those Devonshire girls, among the dry law-stationers, and the
+attorneys&rsquo; offices; and of the tea and toast, and
+children&rsquo;s songs, in that grim atmosphere of pounce and
+parchment, red-tape, dusty wafers, ink-jars, brief and draft
+paper, law reports, writs, declarations, and bills of costs,
+seemed almost as pleasantly fanciful as if I had dreamed that the
+Sultan&rsquo;s famous family had been admitted on the roll of
+attorneys, and had brought the talking-bird, the singing-tree,
+and the Golden water into Gray&rsquo;s Inn Hall.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The offices of <i>Mr. Perker</i>, the legal adviser of Mr.
+Pickwick, were also located in Gray&rsquo;s Inn.&nbsp; We read
+that the &ldquo;outer door&rdquo; of these chambers was to be
+found &ldquo;after climbing two pairs of steep and dirty
+stairs;&rdquo; but no indication is given of their exact
+situation.</p>
+<p>Proceeding westward from Gray&rsquo;s Inn, and passing the
+stately, elegant, and commodious <i>First Avenue Hotel</i>,
+between Warwick Court and Brownlow Street, and a half-a-dozen
+side streets beyond, we come, on the north side, at No. 92, to
+the <b>Bull and Anchor Tavern</b>.&nbsp; This is the house known
+in the pages of &ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit&rdquo; as &ldquo;<i>The
+Bull Inn</i>,&rdquo; then a more important hostelry than at
+present.&nbsp; It will be remembered as the inn at which Mr.
+Lewsome, during his <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+50</span>illness, was professionally attended by <i>Sairey
+Gamp</i> and <i>Betsy Prig</i>, &ldquo;turn and turn
+about.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Passing on to the next turning but one, we reach <b>Kingsgate
+Street</b>, where <i>Poll Sweedlepipes</i>&mdash;barber and
+bird-fancier&mdash;once had his business location, &ldquo;next
+door but one to the celebrated mutton-pie shop, and directly
+opposite the original cat&rsquo;s-meat warehouse.&rdquo;&nbsp; At
+this place the immortal <i>Mrs. Gamp</i> had lodgings on the
+first floor, where she</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Was easily assailed at night by pebbles,
+walking-sticks, and fragments of tobacco pipes, all much more
+efficacious than the street-door knocker, which was so
+constructed as to wake the street with ease, and even spread
+alarms of fire in Holborn, without making the smallest impression
+on the premises to which it was addressed.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It is recollected in the neighbourhood that, fifty years
+since, a barber by the name of Patterson (who was also a
+bird-dealer) lived in this street, at the second house on the
+left.&nbsp; The shop has been pulled down, is now absorbed by the
+corner premises in Holborn, and can be only identified by its
+position.&nbsp; Here, then, did <i>Mr. Pecksniff</i> arrive on
+his doleful mission, in accordance with the recommendation of
+<i>Mr. Mould</i>, the undertaker, with regard to the death of old
+<i>Anthony Chuzzlewit</i>; and here did that memorable teapot
+cause a lasting difference between two friends, as narrated in
+chapter 49 of &ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;This
+world-famous personage, Mrs. Gamp, has passed into and become one
+with the language&rdquo; whose vernacular she has adorned with
+her own flowers of speech.&nbsp; As Mr. Forster remarks,
+&ldquo;she will remain among the everlasting triumphs of fiction,
+a superb masterpiece of English humour.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Age
+cannot wither her, nor custom stale, her infinite
+variety.&rdquo;&nbsp; At the Holborn corner of Kingsgate Street
+we may remember <i>Mr. Bailey</i>, <i>junior</i>, on the occasion
+when, at this exact spot, he collided with Poll Sweedlepipes,
+afterwards going &ldquo;round and round in circles on the
+pavement,&rdquo; the better to exhibit to Poll&rsquo;s admiring
+gaze his fashionable livery as Tiger in the service of <i>Mr.
+Montague Tigg</i>, &ldquo;rather to the <a
+name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>inconvenience
+of the passengers generally, who were not in an equal state of
+spirits with himself.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The next turning but one, westward, on the right, by the West
+Central Post Office (No. 126), is <b>Southampton Street</b>,
+leading to Bloomsbury Square.</p>
+<p>Here it will be remembered that lodgings were taken by Mr.
+Grewgious for <i>Miss Twinkleton</i> and Rosa, of the redoubtable
+<i>Mrs. Billickin</i>, &ldquo;the person of the
+&rsquo;ouse,&rdquo; who, from prudential motives, suppressed her
+Christian name.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mr. Grewgious had his agreement-lines and
+his earnest-money ready.&nbsp; &lsquo;I have signed it for the
+ladies, ma&rsquo;am,&rsquo; he said, &lsquo;and you&rsquo;ll have
+the goodness to sign it for yourself, Christian and Surname,
+there, if you please.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Mr. Grewgious,&rsquo; said Mrs. Billickin in a
+new burst of candour, &lsquo;no, sir! You must excuse the
+Christian name.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Mr. Grewgious stared at her.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;The door-plate is used as a protection,&rsquo;
+said Mrs. Billickin, &lsquo;and acts as such, and go from it I
+will not.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Mr. Grewgious stared at Rosa.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;No, Mr. Grewgious, you must excuse me.&nbsp; So
+long as this &rsquo;ouse is known indefinite as
+Billickin&rsquo;s, and so long as it is a doubt with the
+riff-raff where Billickin may be hidin&rsquo;, near the
+street-door or down the airy, and what his weight and size, so
+long I feel safe.&nbsp; But commit myself to a solitary female
+statement, no, Miss!&nbsp; Nor would you for a moment
+wish,&rsquo; said Mrs. Billickin, with a strong sense of injury,
+&lsquo;to take that advantage of your sex, if you were not
+brought to it by inconsiderate example.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Rosa reddening as if she had made some most disgraceful
+attempt to overreach the good lady, besought Mr. Grewgious to
+rest content with any signature.&nbsp; And accordingly, in a
+baronial way, the sign-manual <span
+class="smcap">Billickin</span> got appended to the
+document.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And we may here recall the incidental passage of arms between
+the worthy landlady and Miss Twinkleton, Mrs. B. being always in
+direct antagonism with the schoolmistress, against whom she
+&ldquo;openly pitted herself as one whom she fully ascertained to
+be her natural enemy.&rdquo;&nbsp; Witness &ldquo;the B.
+enveloped in the shawl of State,&rdquo; as she remarked to Miss
+Twinkleton that</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;A rush from scanty feeding to
+generous feeding, from what you may call messing to what you may
+call method, do require a power of <a name="page52"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 52</span>constitution, which is not often
+found in youth, particular when undermined by boarding-school. .
+. .&nbsp; I was put in youth to a very genteel boarding-school,
+the mistress being no less a lady than yourself, of about your
+own age, or it may be some years younger, and a poorness of blood
+flowed from the table, which has run through my life.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;If you refer to the poverty of your
+circulation,&rsquo; began Miss Twinkleton, when again the
+Billickin neatly stopped her.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;I have used no such expressions.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;If you refer, then, to the poorness of your
+blood&mdash;&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Brought upon me,&rsquo; stipulated the
+Billickin, expressly, &lsquo;at a
+boarding-school&mdash;&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Then,&rsquo; resumed Miss Twinkleton, &lsquo;all
+I can say is, that I am bound to believe, on your asseveration,
+that it is very poor indeed.&nbsp; I cannot forbear adding, that
+if that unfortunate circumstance influences your conversation, it
+is much to be lamented, and it is eminently desirable that your
+blood were richer.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Southampton Street is not a long one, and is now chiefly
+occupied by solicitors and architects; but there is reason to
+believe that the Billickins&rsquo; residence was, aforetime, to
+be found at No. 18, which is situated next door but one to an
+archway.&nbsp; As Mrs. B. herself candidly pointed out,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The arching leads to a mews; mewses must
+exist.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The mews aforesaid is now superseded by a factory.&nbsp; Mrs.
+Billickin has long since relinquished the cares of housekeeping
+and retired from public life.&nbsp; The present amiable landlady
+conducts the business on different principles, and will be at all
+times disposed to give her patrons satisfaction, whether they be
+of the scholastic persuasion or otherwise.</p>
+<p>Southampton Street leads immediately northward into
+<b>Bloomsbury Square</b>.&nbsp; This place is mentioned in
+&ldquo;Barnaby Rudge&rdquo; as the locality in which <i>Lord
+Mansfield&rsquo;s</i> residence was situated at the period of the
+Gordon Riots.&nbsp; In chapter 66 its destruction by the rioters
+is thus described:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They began to demolish the house with great
+fury; and setting fire to it in several places, involved in a
+common ruin the whole of the costly furniture, the plate and
+jewels, a beautiful gallery of pictures, the rarest collection of
+manuscripts ever possessed by any one private <a
+name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>person in the
+world, and, worst of all, because nothing could replace the loss,
+the great Law Library, on almost every page of which were notes,
+in the judge&rsquo;s own hand, of inestimable value; being the
+results of the study and experience of his whole life.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p53.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Children&rsquo;s Hospital"
+title=
+"The Children&rsquo;s Hospital"
+src="images/p53.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The house occupied the site of No. 29, on the east side of the
+square.&nbsp; We subsequently read in the same book that two of
+the rioters&mdash;cripples&mdash;were hanged in this square, the
+execution being momentarily delayed, as they were placed facing
+the house they had assisted to despoil.&nbsp; Leaving the square
+at its north-east angle (right) by <i>Bloomsbury Place</i>, the
+Rambler shortly comes into <i>Southampton Row</i>, turning left,
+and proceeding for a short distance upwards to <i>Cosmo Place</i>
+on the right, a short cut which leads directly to the contiguous
+shades of <b>Queen Square</b> just beyond.&nbsp; It will be
+remembered that in this neighbourhood Richard Carstone had
+furnished apartments at the time when he was pursuing the
+experimental study of the Law under the auspices of Messrs. Kenge
+and Carboy (see &ldquo;Bleak House,&rdquo; chapter 18).&nbsp;
+There is reason to believe that the &ldquo;quiet old&rdquo; house
+intended was No. 28 <i>Devonshire Street</i>, leading from the
+south-east angle of the square.</p>
+<p>Leaving Queen Square by <i>Great Ormond Street</i> (eastward),
+we immediately arrive, on the north side (No. 50), at <b>The
+Children&rsquo;s Hospital</b>, adjacent to the Catholic Church
+and Convent of St. John.&nbsp; In 1858, February 9th, a public
+dinner was arranged, by way of charitable appeal, for funds
+necessary to carry on and develop the work.&nbsp; It was happily
+resolved to invite Charles Dickens to preside on that occasion,
+and he &ldquo;threw himself into the service heart and
+soul.&rdquo;&nbsp; His earnest, pathetic, but powerful
+appeal&mdash;&ldquo;majestic in its own
+simplicity&rdquo;&mdash;that night added more than &pound;3000 to
+the treasury, which amount was, two months afterwards,
+substantially increased by the proceeds of a public reading of
+his &ldquo;Christmas Carol.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is pleasant to record
+that this institution has ever since flourished amain, thus
+fulfilling the prediction of Dickens when, suggesting <a
+name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>that the
+enterprise could not be possibly maintained unless the Hospital
+were made better known, he continued as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I limit myself to saying&mdash;better
+known, because I will not believe that, in a Christian community
+of fathers and mothers, and brothers and sisters, it can fail,
+being better known, to be well and richly endowed.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We may here recall the scene narrated in chapter 9 of
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend,&rdquo; when <i>Johnny</i> makes his
+will and arranges his affairs, leaving &ldquo;a kiss for the
+boofer lady&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The family whom God had brought together
+were not all asleep, but were all quiet.&nbsp; From bed to bed, a
+light womanly tread and a pleasant fresh face passed in the
+silence of the night.&nbsp; A little head would lift itself into
+the softened light here and there, to be kissed as the face went
+by&mdash;for these little patients are very loving&mdash;and
+would then submit itself to be composed to rest again. . .
+.&nbsp; Over most of the beds, the toys were yet grouped as the
+children had left them when they last laid themselves down, and
+in their innocent grotesqueness and incongruity they might have
+stood for the children&rsquo;s dreams.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Proceeding eastward by <i>Great Ormond Street</i> and turning
+(left) through <i>Lamb&rsquo;s Conduit Street</i>, to its
+northern end, we face the entrance of the <b>Foundling
+Hospital</b>.&nbsp; This beneficent institution was established
+by Captain Thomas Coram, about the middle of the last century,
+and is associated with &ldquo;No Thoroughfare,&rdquo; the
+Christmas number (and last in the series) of &ldquo;All the Year
+Round,&rdquo; 1867.&nbsp; Visitors attending the morning service
+of the <i>Foundling Church</i> on Sundays are admitted to the
+children&rsquo;s <i>Dining-Hall</i> thereafter, and so may have
+an opportunity of realising the scene portrayed by Dickens, when
+the &ldquo;veiled lady&rdquo; induced a female attendant to point
+out Walter Wilding:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The bright autumnal sun strikes freshly
+into the wards; and the heavy-framed windows through which it
+shines, and the panelled walls on which it shines, are such
+windows, and such walls as pervade Hogarth&rsquo;s
+pictures.&nbsp; Neat attendants silently glide about the orderly
+and silent tables, the lookers-on move or stop as the fancy takes
+them; comments in whispers on face such a number, from such a
+window, are <a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+55</span>not unfrequent&mdash;many of the faces are of a
+character to fix attention.&nbsp; Some of the visitors from the
+outside public are accustomed visitors.&nbsp; They have
+established a speaking acquaintance with the occupants of
+particular seats at the table, and halt at those points to say a
+word or two.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In &ldquo;Little Dorrit,&rdquo; too, reference is made to this
+institution, <i>in re</i> the adoption of Tattycoram by good Papa
+and Mamma Meagles.&nbsp; In the times of Barnaby Rudge, the
+London streets were not greatly extended northward beyond this
+(now central) neighbourhood.&nbsp; We may remember that the
+headquarters of the &ldquo;Captain,&rdquo; Sim Tappertit, Hugh,
+and Dennis were at <b>The</b> &ldquo;<b>Boot</b>&rdquo;
+<b>Tavern</b>, which is described as</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A lone place of public entertainment,
+situated in the fields at the back of the Foundling Hospital; a
+very solitary spot at that period, and quite deserted after
+dark.&nbsp; The Tavern stood at some distance from any high road,
+and was only approachable by a dark and narrow lane.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Guilford Street</i>, we reach
+<i>Doughty Street</i>, <i>Mecklenburgh Square</i>, running
+transversely north and south.&nbsp; On the east side we may note
+<b>No. 48 Doughty Street</b>, as the house to which Dickens
+removed from <i>Furnival&rsquo;s Inn</i>, in the early spring of
+1837, and in which he lived two years and a half, previous to his
+longer residence at <i>No.</i> 1 <i>Devonshire Terrace</i>.&nbsp;
+In it &ldquo;Oliver Twist&rdquo; and &ldquo;Nicholas
+Nickleby&rdquo; were written; and here, too, the early
+friendship, which had been for some time steadily developing
+between Dickens and Forster, became cemented for life.&nbsp; His
+biographer says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Nor had many weeks passed before he
+addressed to me from Doughty Street, words which it is my
+sorrowful pride to remember have had literal fulfilment.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;I look back with unmingled pleasure to every link which
+each ensuing week has added to the chain of our attachment.&nbsp;
+It shall go hard, I hope, ere anything but death impairs the
+toughness of a bond now so firmly riveted.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The route being retraced to the Foundling Hospital, and thence
+continued through Guilford Street to <i>Russell </i><a
+name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+56</span><i>Square</i>, we turn (right) by <i>Woburn Place</i> to
+<span class="smcap">Tavistock Square</span>, on the south side of
+which (<span class="smcap">Tavistock Villas</span>) is situated
+<b>Tavistock House</b>.&nbsp; To this residence Dickens removed
+(from <span class="smcap">Devonshire Terrace</span>) in October
+1851, retaining its possession for nearly ten years.&nbsp; During
+this time &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; was completed, and
+&ldquo;Hard Times,&rdquo; &ldquo;Little Dorrit,&rdquo; and the
+&ldquo;Tale of Two Cities&rdquo; were given to the world.&nbsp;
+<span class="smcap">Tavistock House</span> is now transformed
+into a Jewish College.&nbsp; <i>Hans Christian Andersen</i>,
+visiting his friend in London, gives the following
+description:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In Tavistock Square stands Tavistock
+House.&nbsp; This and the strip of garden in front of it are shut
+out from the thoroughfare by an iron railing.&nbsp; A large
+garden, with a grass plat and high trees, stretches behind the
+house, and gives it a countrified look in the midst of this coal
+and gas steaming London.&nbsp; In the passage from street to
+garden hung pictures and engravings.&nbsp; Here stood a marble
+bust of Dickens, so like him, so youthful and handsome; and over
+a bedroom door were inserted the bas-reliefs of Night and Day,
+after Thorwaldsen.&nbsp; On the first floor was a rich library,
+with a fireplace and a writing-table, looking out on the garden;
+and here it was that in winter Dickens and his friends acted
+plays to the satisfaction of all parties.&nbsp; The kitchen was
+underground, and at the top of the house were the
+bedrooms.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p56.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Tavistock House"
+title=
+"Tavistock House"
+src="images/p56.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Leaving this locality at the north-west angle, passing
+<i>Gordon Square</i>, we turn (right) into <i>Gordon Street</i>,
+and (left) through <i>Gower Place</i>, to <span
+class="smcap">Gower Street</span>, on the west side of
+which&mdash;opposite&mdash;is the house once bearing a large
+brass plate on the door, announcing <b>Mrs. Dickens&rsquo;s
+Establishment</b>, being the place at which Mrs. Dickens (mother
+of Charles) endeavoured to set up a school during the difficult
+times of 1822.&nbsp; The family lived here for a short time,
+previous to the Marshalsea imprisonment of Dickens senior;
+Charles being then a boy ten years of age.&nbsp; In the first
+chapter of Forster&rsquo;s Biography is the following:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A house was soon found at number four,
+Gower Street North; a large brass plate on the door announced
+Mrs. Dickens&rsquo;s establishment; <a name="page57"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 57</span>and the result I can give in the
+exact words of the then small actor in the comedy, whose hopes it
+had raised so high: &lsquo;I left at a great many other doors a
+great many circulars, calling attention to the merits of the
+establishment.&nbsp; Yet nobody ever came to school, nor do I
+recollect that anybody ever proposed to come, or that the least
+preparation was made to receive anybody.&nbsp; But, I know that
+we got on very badly with the butcher and baker; that very often
+we had not too much for dinner; and that at last my father was
+arrested.&rsquo;&nbsp; . . .&nbsp; Almost everything by degrees
+was pawned or sold, little Charles being the principal agent in
+these sorrowful transactions . . . until at last, even of the
+furniture of Gower Street, number four, there was nothing left
+except a few chairs, a kitchen table, and some beds.&nbsp; Then
+they encamped, as it were, in the two parlours of the emptied
+house, and lived there night and day.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Gower Street has been rearranged since that time (there is now
+no Gower Street North), and the houses are renumbered.&nbsp; No.
+145, near <i>Gower Street Chapel</i>, and other houses adjoining,
+are now in the occupation of Messrs. Maple &amp; Co.; and this
+No. 145 was the house then enumerated as No. 4 Gower Street
+North.&nbsp; Mrs. Dickens&rsquo;s experience, it will be
+remembered, has been pleasantly referred to in the pages of
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend;&rdquo; the stately <i>Mrs. Wilfer</i>
+therein making a similar experiment, with the same result.&nbsp;
+In chapter 4 we read of <i>Rumpty&rsquo;s</i> return home from
+business: when</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Something had gone wrong with the house
+door, for R. Wilfer stopped on the steps, staring at it, and
+cried &lsquo;Hal-loa?&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;Yes,&rsquo; said Mrs.
+Wilfer, &lsquo;the man came himself with a pair of pincers and
+took it off, and took it away.&nbsp; He said that as he had no
+expectation of ever being paid for it, and as he had an order for
+another <i>Ladies&rsquo; School</i> door-plate, it was better
+(burnished up) for the interests of all
+parties.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the opposite corner of the street is the <i>Gower Street
+Station</i> of the Metropolitan Railway, at which train may be
+taken to <i>Baker Street</i>.&nbsp; On arrival, we turn to the
+right, by <i>Marylebone Road</i>, to <b>Devonshire Terrace</b>,
+consisting of three houses at the northern end of <i>High
+Street</i>,<i> Marylebone</i>.&nbsp; No. 1, now occupied by a
+legal firm, was for twelve years the residence of Charles Dickens
+(when in town).&nbsp; It is described by Forster as</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+58</span>&ldquo;A handsome house with a garden of considerable
+size, shut out from the New Road by a brick wall, facing the York
+Gate into Regent&rsquo;s Park.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>To quote the ironical dictum of its future tenant when the
+choice was made, it was &ldquo;a house of great promise (and
+great premium), undeniable situation, and excessive
+splendour.&rdquo;&nbsp; During the period of the author&rsquo;s
+residence here several of his best-known books were given to the
+world&mdash;&ldquo;Master Humphrey&rsquo;s Clock,&rdquo; <span
+class="smcap">Christmas Books</span>, and &ldquo;David
+Copperfield&rdquo; included.&nbsp; Proceeding forwards and
+eastward past <i>Devonshire Place</i>, we may take our way,
+turning on the right down <b>Harley Street</b>, of which we read
+in &ldquo;Little Dorrit&rdquo; that,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Like unexceptionable society, the opposing
+rows of houses in Harley Street were very grim with one
+another.&nbsp; Indeed, the mansions and their inhabitants were so
+much alike in that respect that the people were often to be found
+drawn up on opposite sides of dinner tables, in the shade of
+their own loftiness, staring at the other side of the way with
+the dulness of the houses.&nbsp; Everybody knows how like the
+street the two dinner-rows of people who take their stand by the
+street will be.&nbsp; The expressionless uniform twenty houses,
+all to be knocked at and rung at in the same form, all
+approachable by the same dull steps, all fended off by the same
+pattern of railing, all with the same impracticable fire-escapes,
+the same inconvenient fixtures in their heads, and everything,
+without exception, to be taken at a high valuation&mdash;who has
+not dined with these?&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In this street lived that great financier and swindler <i>Mr.
+Merdle</i>, who had his residence in one of the handsomest of
+these handsome houses; but it would be, perhaps, invidious to
+point out any particular location for the same, Dickens himself
+having purposely omitted an exact address.&nbsp; Following the
+course of Harley Street, we come in due time to <span
+class="smcap">Queen Anne Street</span>, running east and
+west.&nbsp; Adopting the leftward turning (east), we may find at
+the next corner&mdash;<i>Mansfield Street</i>&mdash;on the north
+side, <b>Mr. Dombey&rsquo;s House</b>, as described in chapter 3
+of &ldquo;Dombey and Son&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mr. Dombey&rsquo;s house was a large one,
+on the shady side of a tall, <a name="page59"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 59</span>dark, dreadfully genteel street in
+the region between Portland Place and Bryanston Square.&nbsp; It
+was a corner house, with great wide areas containing cellars,
+frowned upon by barred windows, and leered at by crooked-eyed
+doors leading to dust-bins.&nbsp; It was a house of dismal state,
+with a circular back to it, containing a whole suite of
+drawing-rooms looking upon a gravelled yard.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It will be observed that the position and character of this
+mansion exactly correspond to the above description, being in its
+general style noteworthy and unique.&nbsp; This, then, was the
+private establishment and &ldquo;home department&rdquo; of the
+Dombey family, where died the gentle Paul; the lonely house in
+which the neglected Florence grew to lovely womanhood; what time
+the second wife&mdash;the stately Edith&mdash;held temporary
+sway.</p>
+<p>Hence a short distance southward leads to <i>Cavendish
+Square</i>.&nbsp; In this neighbourhood we read that <b>Madame
+Mantalini&rsquo;s</b> fashionable dressmaking establishment was
+situated, at which Kate Nickleby was for some few weeks engaged,
+on the recommendation of her uncle.&nbsp; The house intended was
+probably in <i>Wigmore Street</i>, No. 11.&nbsp; In the days of
+the Mantalini <i>r&eacute;gime</i> the business was
+advertised</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;To the nobility and gentry by the casual
+exhibition, near the handsomely-curtained windows, of two or
+three elegant bonnets of the newest fashion, and some costly
+garments in the most approved taste.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>By the next turning (right) on the north side we come into
+<span class="smcap">Wimpole Street</span>; on the east of which,
+at the corner of the third block, stands <b>The West End
+Residence</b>&mdash;No. 43&mdash;aforetime occupied by Mr. and
+Mrs. Boffin; which became, later on, the property of Mr. John
+Harmon and his wife.&nbsp; It is described as &ldquo;a corner
+house, not far from Cavendish Square.&rdquo;&nbsp; Near this
+house <i>Silas Wegg</i>&mdash;assuming some knowledge of its
+affairs&mdash;kept his street-stall.&nbsp; He was accustomed to
+refer to it as &ldquo;Our House,&rdquo; its (imaginary) inmates
+being Miss Elizabeth, Master George, Aunt Jane, and Uncle
+Parker.</p>
+<p><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+60</span>Returning to Wigmore Street, we arrive by the next block
+at <b>Welbeck Street</b>, running transversely thereto.&nbsp; In
+this street was the London residence of <i>Lord George
+Gordon</i>, as referred to in the pages of &ldquo;Barnaby
+Rudge.&rdquo;&nbsp; The house is No. 64, the second from Wigmore
+Street on the left side.&nbsp; It is within the recollection of
+the present landlord that the old balcony&mdash;from which Lord
+George was wont to harangue the public&mdash;was many years since
+superseded by the present continuous railing.</p>
+<p>We now come south into the West-end artery of <i>Oxford
+Street</i>, crossing same to <i>Davies Street</i>, by which we
+may soon reach <span class="smcap">Brook Street</span>, <span
+class="smcap">Grosvenor Square</span>, running east and
+west.&nbsp; On the south-eastern angle of its intersection stands
+<b>Claridge&rsquo;s Hotel</b>.&nbsp; It will be remembered that
+on <i>Mr. Dorrit&rsquo;s</i> return from the Continent, after the
+marriage of his daughter Fanny, &ldquo;the Courier had not
+approved of his staying at the house of a friend, and had
+preferred to take him to an hotel in Brook Street, Grosvenor
+Square.&rdquo;&nbsp; This was doubtless the establishment
+favoured by the Courier&rsquo;s preference on that occasion; and
+where Mr. Merdle paid a state visit to Mr. Dorrit at
+breakfast-time the next morning; taking him afterwards in his
+carriage to the City.</p>
+<p>Readers of &ldquo;Dombey and Son&rdquo; may be reminded that
+the <b>Feenix Town House</b> was situated in this same <span
+class="smcap">Brook Street</span>; but no clue is afforded of its
+exact whereabouts.&nbsp; It is described as an aristocratic
+mansion of a dull and gloomy sort; and was borrowed by the
+<i>Honourable Mrs. Skewton</i> from a stately relative, on the
+occasion of her daughter&rsquo;s marriage.&nbsp; Here also, in
+aftertime, the final interview between <i>Florence</i> and
+<i>Edith</i> took place.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p61.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House"
+title=
+"The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House"
+src="images/p61.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Keeping on through <i>Davies Street</i> across <i>Berkeley
+Square</i>, we come through <i>Berkeley Street</i> to Piccadilly,
+in the close vicinity of <b>Devonshire House</b>, a mansion of
+fashionable and political repute, belonging to the <i>Duke of
+Devonshire</i>.&nbsp; Here, on <a name="page61"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 61</span>the 27th of May 1851, in the great
+drawing-room and library, Dickens and his <i>confr&egrave;res</i>
+of &ldquo;The Guild of Literature and Art&rdquo; performed, for
+the first time, Sir Bulwer Lytton&rsquo;s comedy (written for the
+occasion) &ldquo;Not so Bad as We Seem,&rdquo; in the presence of
+the Queen, Prince Albert and a brilliant audience.&nbsp; The Duke
+not only afforded the necessary accommodation, but (as Mr.
+Forster writes), in his princely way, discharged all attendant
+expenses.&nbsp; Many distinguished authors and artists assisted
+at this performance, including Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and John
+Leech.</p>
+<p>Near at hand, on the eastern corner of the next turning down
+Piccadilly (<i>Dover Street</i>), is <span
+class="smcap">Hatchett&rsquo;s Hotel</span>, adjoining <b>The
+White Horse Cellars</b>, once a well-known coaching
+establishment.&nbsp; On the opposite side of the way stood in
+days of yore the old &ldquo;White Horse Cellars,&rdquo; of which
+Hazlitt writes:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The finest sight in the Metropolis is the
+setting out of the mail-coaches from Piccadilly.&nbsp; The horses
+paw the ground and are impatient to be gone, as if conscious of
+the precious burden they convey.&nbsp; There is a peculiar
+secrecy and despatch, significant and full of meaning, in all the
+proceedings concerning them.&nbsp; Even the outside passengers
+have an erect and supercilious air, as if proof against the
+accidents of the journey; in fact, it seems indifferent whether
+they are to encounter the summer&rsquo;s heat or the
+winter&rsquo;s cold, since they are borne through the air on a
+winged chariot.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>From this well-known Booking Office, <i>Mr. Pickwick</i> and
+his friends&mdash;accompanied by the fierce <i>Dowler</i> and his
+fascinating wife&mdash;started for Bath, one &ldquo;muggy, damp,
+and drizzly morning, by the mail coach; on the door of which was
+displayed, in gilt letters of a goodly size, the magic name of
+&lsquo;Pickwick&rsquo;; a circumstance which seems to have
+occasioned some confusion of ideas in the mind of the faithful
+Sam, as evidenced by his indignant
+inquiry&mdash;&lsquo;An&rsquo;t nobody to be whopped for
+takin&rsquo; this here liberty?&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Readers of &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo; will remember this
+locality as the destination of the Reading Coach; so indicated by
+<i>Messrs. Kenge and Carboy</i> in their first communication to
+<a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span><i>Esther
+Summerson</i>.&nbsp; Here she was met, one foggy November
+afternoon, on her arrival in London, by the susceptible <i>Mr.
+Guppy</i>, and by him conducted to Old Square, Lincoln&rsquo;s
+Inn.&nbsp; The incident was afterwards feelingly referred to by
+that young gentleman, on the occasion of his offer of heart,
+hand, and income to Esther:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I think you must have seen that I was
+struck with those charms on the day when I waited at the
+Whytorseller.&nbsp; I think you must have remarked that I could
+not forbear a tribute to those charms when I put up the steps of
+the &rsquo;ackney coach.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>For the full narrative, see &ldquo;Bleak House,&rdquo; chapter
+9.</p>
+<p>The Rambler can now take an eastward course up <span
+class="smcap">Piccadilly</span>, and may casually observe, on the
+left, past Burlington House, <span class="smcap">The
+Albany</span>, where <i>Mr. Fledgby</i> had chambers.&nbsp; The
+next turning on the same side is <span class="smcap">Sackville
+Street</span>, in which it may be recollected that <i>Mr. and
+Mrs. Lammles</i> resided during the short term of their social
+prosperity.&nbsp; Mention of these localities in such connection
+will be found in the pages of &ldquo;Our Mutual
+Friend.&rdquo;&nbsp; Passing onwards on the same side, we arrive
+at No. 28, <b>St. James&rsquo;s Hall</b>.&nbsp; It was at this
+well-known place of assembly that several of those popular
+Readings were given by Charles Dickens, which always commanded
+the attention and sympathetic interest of his audience.&nbsp; On
+these occasions he invariably adopted the extreme of fashionable
+evening attire, being dressed in irreproachable style, with,
+perhaps, more of shirt-front than waistcoat; and so &ldquo;got
+up&rdquo; as to present a staginess and juvenility of appearance,
+possibly somewhat out of keeping with his time of life.&nbsp;
+Some of his hearers may have desired a more natural and less
+conventional mode; but they knew that beneath the big shirt and
+fashionable coat, there throbbed the genial heart of the man they
+loved, as he read of the sorrows of &ldquo;Little Emily,&rdquo;
+or stood with them in spirit at the bedside of &ldquo;Paul
+Dombey.&rdquo;&nbsp; On the occasion of his final Reading, given
+here in March 1870, he tendered his last public farewell to his
+London audience in the following words:</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+63</span>&ldquo;It would be worse than idle, it would be
+hypocritical and unfeeling, if I were to disguise that I close
+this episode of my life with feelings of very considerable
+pain.&nbsp; For some fifteen years, in this hall and many kindred
+places, I have had the honour of presenting my own cherished
+ideas before you for your recognition; and, in closely observing
+your reception of them, have enjoyed an amount of artistic
+delight and enjoyment, which perhaps it is given few men to
+know.&nbsp; In this task and every other, I have ever undertaken
+as a faithful servant of the public&mdash;always imbued with a
+sense of duty to them, and always striving to do his best&mdash;I
+have been uniformly cheered by the readiest response, the most
+generous sympathy and the most stimulating support.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, I have thought it well, at the full flood-tide of
+your favour, to retire upon those older associations between us,
+which date from much further back than these; and henceforth to
+devote myself exclusively to the art that first brought us
+together.&nbsp; Ladies and gentlemen, in but two short weeks from
+this time, I hope that you may enter, in your own homes, on a new
+series of Readings, at which my assistance will be indispensable;
+but from these garish lights I vanish now for ever, with one
+heartfelt, grateful, respectful, and affectionate
+farewell.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the right-hand side of Piccadilly, adjacent to the
+<i>Prince&rsquo;s Hall and Institute of Painters</i>, there may
+be noted, <i>en passant</i>, the premises No. 193, now occupied
+by the Boys&rsquo; Messenger Co.&nbsp; This, for many years, was
+the address of <b>Messrs. Chapman and Hall</b>, the publishers of
+the works of Dickens.&nbsp; Previous to 1850, the earlier
+books&mdash;&ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; to &ldquo;Martin
+Chuzzlewit&rdquo; inclusive&mdash;together with the first issue
+of their cheaper edition, were published by this well-known house
+at 186 <i>Strand</i>, the site now occupied by the premises of W.
+H. Smith and Son.&nbsp; The firm have, for many years past,
+removed their offices to <i>No.</i> 11 <i>Henrietta Street</i>,
+<i>Covent Garden</i>.</p>
+<p>Passing on to <i>Piccadilly Circus</i>, and crossing northward
+from the same, we turn (left) into <i>Sherwood Street</i>, which
+leads, by a short walk, to <i>Brewer Street</i>, in the
+neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">Golden Square</span>.&nbsp;
+Continuing by <i>Lower James Street</i>, opposite, we reach the
+square itself, in which was formerly situated the <b>Office of
+Ralph Nickleby</b>.&nbsp; Readers of Dickens will remember that
+it was a large house, with an attic storey, in which Ralph
+committed suicide.&nbsp; The house No. 6, on <a
+name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>the east
+side, was probably the one assigned by the author as the
+usurer&rsquo;s residence.&nbsp; It is now let off in various
+suites of offices, professional and otherwise.&nbsp; The
+neighbourhood has somewhat changed since the time when the
+&ldquo;Adventures of Nicholas Nickleby&rdquo; was first issued,
+and the following description, given by Dickens, became public
+property:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;It is one of the squares that have
+been&mdash;a quarter of the town that has gone down in the world,
+and taken to letting lodgings.&nbsp; Many of its first and second
+floors are let, furnished, to single gentlemen, and it takes
+boarders besides.&nbsp; It is a great resort of foreigners.&nbsp;
+The dark-complexioned men who wear large rings and heavy
+watch-guards, and bushy whiskers, and who congregate under the
+Opera Colonnade, and about the box-office in the season between
+four and five in the afternoon, when they give away the
+orders&mdash;all live in Golden Square, or within a street of
+it.&nbsp; Two or three violins and a wind instrument from the
+opera-band reside within its precincts.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We read in the same book of the whereabouts of <i>Mr.
+Kenwigs</i> as being in this neighbourhood&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A bygone, faded, tumble-down street, with
+two irregular rows of tall meagre houses, which seem to have
+stared each other out of countenance years ago; the very chimneys
+appear to have grown dismal and melancholy from having had
+nothing better to look at than the chimneys over the
+way.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>There are many streets in the district of Soho, in this
+vicinity, which will in some respects correspond with the
+description given; but much alteration has taken place during the
+last sixty years.&nbsp; Recollecting that <i>Newman Noggs</i>
+lodged in the upper part of the same house, it must have been
+conveniently near Golden Square.&nbsp; In <b>Carnaby Street</b>
+(immediately north of the Square) there may be remarked a
+white-fronted, old-fashioned house (No. 48), which, being in
+proximity to Ralph Nickleby&rsquo;s Office, may be assigned as
+aforetime comprising the apartments of the Kenwigs Family.</p>
+<p>At the corner of <i>Beak Street</i> and <i>Upper James
+Street</i> is still existent &ldquo;<b>The Crown Inn</b>,&rdquo;
+well known to Newman Noggs; though, since his time, it must have
+undergone <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+65</span>considerable alteration.&nbsp; In his first letter to
+Nicholas Nickleby, Newman writes:&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;If you ever want a shelter in London, . . . they know
+where I live at the sign of the Crown, Golden Square.&nbsp; It is
+at the corner of Silver Street&rdquo; [now Beak Street]
+&ldquo;and James Street, with a bar door both ways.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In this neighbourhood, also, <b>Martha&rsquo;s Lodgings</b>
+were situated, in the days of David Copperfield, who
+says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;She laid her hand on my arm, and hurried me
+on to one of the sombre streets of which there are several in
+that part, where the houses were once fair dwellings, in the
+occupation of single families, but have, and had, long
+degenerated into poor lodgings let off in rooms.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Such a house may be found in <i>Marshall Street</i>, No. 53,
+close at hand.&nbsp; But at this distance of time it is difficult
+to assign the exact locality intended by Dickens.&nbsp; We are
+all familiar with the welcome episode in David&rsquo;s history
+when Martha rescued <i>Little Emily</i>, bringing her to these
+lodgings, and <i>Mr. Peggotty&rsquo;s</i> dream came
+true.&mdash;See chapter 50.</p>
+<p>Proceeding half-way up <i>Marshall Street</i>, we turn (right)
+through <i>Broad Street</i>, to (left) <i>Poland Street</i>, by
+which we again attain the main thoroughfare of Oxford
+Street.&nbsp; Turning eastward, on the north side, we come at a
+short distance (by No. 90) to <b>Newman Street</b>, in which was
+situated <i>Mr. Turveydrop&rsquo;s Dancing Academy</i>,
+&ldquo;established in a sufficiently dingy house, at the corner
+of an archway&rdquo; (Newman Passage), with Mr.
+Turveydrop&rsquo;s great room built out into a mews at the
+back.&nbsp; The house intended is No. 26, on the east side of the
+street.&nbsp; Here <i>Caddy Jellyby</i> resided with her husband,
+<i>Prince Turveydrop</i>, in the upper rooms of the
+establishment, leaving the better part of the house at the
+disposal of Mr. Turveydrop, senior; that &ldquo;perfect
+model&rdquo; of parental and social
+&ldquo;deportment.&rdquo;&nbsp; Returning to Oxford Street and
+passing onwards on the south side, we shortly arrive at <i>Dean
+Street</i>, leading southward.</p>
+<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>At a
+short distance, running east and west, is <b>Carlisle Street</b>,
+at the further end of which, to the right, is an old house (by
+name Carlisle House) which stands facing the observer.&nbsp; It
+is now occupied by <i>Messrs. Edwards and Roberts</i>, dealers in
+antique furniture.&nbsp; Readers of &ldquo;The Tale of Two
+Cities&rdquo; will recollect the lodgings of <b>Doctor
+Manette</b> and daughter Lucie, as described in the 6th chapter
+(Book the Second) of the Tale, being situated in a quiet
+street-corner, not far from Soho Square:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A quainter corner than the corner where the
+Doctor lived was not to be found in London.&nbsp; There was no
+way through it, and the front windows of the Doctor&rsquo;s
+lodgings commanded a pleasant little vista of street that had a
+congenial air of retirement on it.&nbsp; There were few buildings
+then, north of the Oxford Road, and forest-trees flourished, and
+wild flowers grew, and the hawthorn blossomed, in the now
+vanished fields.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The garden behind the house, referred to in the
+above-mentioned book, has been converted to the uses of a
+warehouse, a glass roof having been long ago built over the
+same.&nbsp; A paved court now exists at the side for the
+convenience of foot-passengers, giving egress at the end of
+Carlisle Street, so that the &ldquo;wonderful echoes&rdquo; which
+once resounded in this &ldquo;curious corner&rdquo; are now no
+longer to be heard.</p>
+<p>It may be interesting to note that a thoroughfare leading from
+<i>No.</i> 119 <i>Charing Cross Road</i> to <i>No.</i> 6 <i>Greek
+Street</i>, <i>Soho</i>, is now named <i>Manette Street</i>; in
+remembrance of the worthy Doctor, whose London residence in
+Carlisle Street, as indicated, was near at hand.</p>
+<p>We may return to Oxford Street through Soho Square,
+conveniently terminating the ramble at Tottenham Court Road, just
+beyond.&nbsp; From this central point there is omnibus
+communication to all parts of London; and a commodious
+resting-place may be here recommended to those disposed for
+dinner, at <span class="smcap">The Horseshoe Restaurant</span>;
+which stands in a prominent position near at hand, on the east
+side of the street.</p>
+<h2><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>RAMBLE
+V<br />
+<i>Bank of England to Her Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">The Bank; Dombey and Son, Tom
+Pinch&mdash;George and Vulture Inn; Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s
+Hotel&mdash;&ldquo;The Green Dragon,&rdquo; <i>alias</i>
+&ldquo;The Blue Boar,&rdquo; Leadenhall Market; Tony
+Weller&rsquo;s Headquarters&mdash;Newman&rsquo;s Court
+(<i>alias</i> Freeman&rsquo;s Court), Cornhill; The Offices of
+Messrs. Dodson and Fogg&mdash;House of Sol Gills, Leadenhall
+Street; The Wooden Midshipman&mdash;St. Mary Axe; Pubsey and
+Co.&mdash;House of Sampson Brass in Bevis Marks&mdash;&ldquo;The
+Red Lion;&rdquo;&nbsp; Mr. Dick Swiveller&rsquo;s
+recommendation&mdash;Bull Inn, Aldgate; Starting-place of the
+Ipswich Coach&mdash;The Minories&mdash;Aldgate Pump; Mr.
+Toots&rsquo;s Excursions&mdash;Mincing Lane; Messrs. Chicksey,
+Veneering, and Stobbles&mdash;Boarding House of Mrs. Todgers,
+King&rsquo;s Head Court&mdash;London Bridge; Meeting-place of
+Rose Maylie and Nancy&mdash;&ldquo;The White Hart Inn&rdquo;; its
+Pickwickian Associations&mdash;The Marshalsea Prison; The Dorrit
+Family&mdash;St. George&rsquo;s Church; Little Dorrit&rsquo;s
+Night Refuge and Marriage&mdash;Lant Street; Dickens and Bob
+Sawyer&rsquo;s Lodging&mdash;King&rsquo;s Bench
+Prison&mdash;Horsemonger Lane Gaol&mdash;Mr. Chivery&rsquo;s
+Shop&mdash;St. George&rsquo;s Obelisk; &ldquo;the long-legged
+young man&rdquo;&mdash;The Surrey Theatre; Fanny Dorrit and
+Uncle&mdash;Bethlehem Hospital; &ldquo;Uncommercial
+Traveller&rdquo;&mdash;Astley&rsquo;s Theatre; visit of the
+Nubbles Family&mdash;Millbank; Poor
+&ldquo;Martha&rdquo;&mdash;Church Street, Smith Square; the
+Dolls&rsquo; Dressmaker&mdash;Julius Handford&mdash;Westminster
+Abbey&mdash;The Red Lion, Parliament Street; the &ldquo;Genuine
+Stunning&rdquo;&mdash;The Horse Guards&rsquo; Clock&mdash;St.
+James&rsquo;s Park; Meeting between Martin and Mary&mdash;Her
+Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre.</p>
+<p>Our starting-point is now the <span class="smcap">Bank of
+England</span>, Dombey and Son&rsquo;s</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Magnificent neighbour; with its vaults of
+gold and silver, &lsquo;all among the dead men,
+underground.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>Tom Pinch</i>, diffident of requesting information in
+London, resolved that, in the event of finding himself near the
+Bank of England,</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+68</span>&ldquo;He would step in, and ask a civil question or
+two, confiding in the perfect respectability of the
+concern.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Adopting the route <i>vi&acirc; Lombard Street</i>, we come,
+on the left (No. 56), to <span class="smcap">George Yard</span>,
+traversing which, there will be found, at the corner of Castle
+Court (No. 3), the <b>George and Vulture Inn</b>, at which Mr.
+Pickwick resided when in London, subsequent to his removal from
+Goswell Street; and which has honourable mention in the history
+of the Pickwickians.</p>
+<p>Through <i>Lombard Street</i>, and turning left into
+<i>Gracechurch Street</i>, we shortly arrive, on the right, at
+<i>Bull&rsquo;s Head Passage</i> (turning by the Branch Post
+Office, No. 82), in which, at No. 4, is the <span
+class="smcap">Green Dragon Tavern</span>, in close proximity to
+Leadenhall Market.&nbsp; This is, in all probability, the house
+mentioned in &ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; as &ldquo;<b>The Blue
+Boar</b>,&rdquo; <i>Leadenhall Market</i>, a favourite house of
+call with the elder Weller, and the place where Sam indited his
+&ldquo;Valentine&rdquo; to <i>Mary</i>, the pretty housemaid,
+afterwards Mrs. Sam.&nbsp; But the neighbourhood of the Market
+has undergone considerable renovation since the old
+coaching-days, and it is difficult to fix the <i>locale</i> of
+the tavern with certainty.</p>
+<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Gracechurch Street</i>, we come
+into the thoroughfare of <span class="smcap">Cornhill</span>; and
+at No. 73, on the opposite side, arrive at <b>Newman&rsquo;s
+Court</b>.&nbsp; It will be remembered that in
+&ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; the offices of <i>Messrs. Dodson and
+Fogg</i> (Mrs. Bardell&rsquo;s attorneys) are located in
+Freeman&rsquo;s Court, Cornhill.&nbsp; There is no such place in
+Cornhill; Freeman&rsquo;s Court being in Cheapside.&nbsp; It is
+evident, therefore, that Dickens, for reasons of his own,
+emulated the special contributor to the <i>Eatanswill
+Gazette</i>, and so &ldquo;combined his information.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Taking Cornhill to be the locality intended, we shall find Dodson
+and Fogg&rsquo;s Office at the furthest end of the Court, No. 4,
+still associated with legal business, <a name="page69"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 69</span>being in possession of Messrs.
+Witherby and Co., law stationers.</p>
+<p>Passing onwards in Cornhill, past Bishopsgate Street, we come
+into Leadenhall Street, and may be interested to note, at No. 157
+(now an outfitting establishment), the original position of the
+<span class="smcap">House of Sol Gills</span>, ships&rsquo;
+instrument maker, at whose door was displayed the figure of</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Wooden Midshipman; eternally taking
+observations of the hackney coaches.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here our eccentric friend <i>Captain Cuttle</i> remained in
+charge during the absence of old Sol Gills and his nephew; here
+<i>Florence</i>, accompanied by the faithful Diogenes, found
+asylum; and here <i>Walter Gay</i> returned after shipwreck, to
+make everybody happy and marry the gentle heroine of the
+story.&nbsp; (See &ldquo;Dombey and Son&rdquo; for information
+<i>in extenso.</i>)&nbsp; Until recent years, these premises were
+in occupation of Messrs. Norie and Wilson, ships&rsquo;
+instrument makers and chart publishers.&nbsp; They have removed
+to the Minories, No. 156, where the quaint effigy of <i>the
+Wooden Midshipman</i>, with his cocked hat and quadrant complete,
+may now be seen, as bright and brisk as in old days.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;When found, make a note of.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Farther on, on the same side of Leadenhall Street, we reach
+<b>St. Mary Axe</b>, turning northward at No. 117, which we
+notice <i>en passant</i> as the thoroughfare in which <i>Pubsey
+and Co.</i> had their place of business; &ldquo;a yellow
+overhanging plaster-fronted house&rdquo;&mdash;reconstructed,
+with many others, some years since&mdash;at the top of which
+<i>Riah</i> (the manager) arranged his town garden; where the
+Dolls&rsquo; Dressmaker invited <i>Fascination Fledgby</i> to
+&ldquo;come up and be dead.&rdquo;&nbsp; All of which is duly set
+forth in the pages of &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend.&rdquo;&nbsp; The
+position of the house cannot now be localised.</p>
+<p>Proceeding to the other end of St. Mary Axe, we may turn
+(right) into <i>Bevis Marks</i>, where there once existed the <a
+name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span><b>House of
+Mr. Sampson Brass</b>, No. 10, but this and others have long
+since been rebuilt and re-enumerated.&nbsp; Here lived that
+honourable attorney and his sister the fair Sally; aided in their
+professional duties by a young gentleman of eccentric habits and
+&ldquo;prodigious talent of quotation.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here the
+<i>Marchioness</i> lived, or rather starved, in attendance as
+maid-of-all-work, and first made the acquaintance of Dick
+Swiveller, her future husband; being by him initiated into the
+mysteries of cribbage and the peculiarities of purl.&nbsp; Here
+lodged the &ldquo;single gentleman,&rdquo; who evinced such
+exceptional interest in the national drama, and so discovered a
+clue to the retreat of Little Nell and her grandfather.</p>
+<p>On the north side of the street there still flourishes the old
+<span class="smcap">Red Lion Inn</span>, an establishment
+patronised in his time by Mr. Richard, and once eulogised by that
+gentleman on the occasion of his specifying &ldquo;the contingent
+advantages&rdquo; of the neighbourhood.&nbsp; &ldquo;There is
+mild porter in the immediate vicinity.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>For these and the other associations of this spot the tourist
+is referred to the pages of the &ldquo;Old Curiosity
+Shop.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Following downwards through Bevis Marks and Duke Street
+beyond, we come into <i>Aldgate</i>, keeping still on the
+left-hand side of the way to <i>Aldgate High Street</i>, where at
+a short distance we pass the Station of the Metropolitan
+Railway.&nbsp; At No. 24, just ahead, is the <b>Bull Inn
+Yard</b>, once the City Terminus of Coaches travelling
+north-east.&nbsp; From this point Mr. Pickwick started per coach
+for Ipswich, accompanied by the red-haired Mr. Peter Magnus; Mr.
+Tony Weller officiating as driver.&nbsp; On which occasion we
+read that Mr. Weller&rsquo;s conversation, &ldquo;possessing the
+inestimable charm of blending amusement with instruction,&rdquo;
+beguiled &ldquo;the tediousness of the journey during the greater
+part of the day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Returning westward on the other side of the way, the Rambler
+may turn, at No. 81, into the <i>Minories</i>; and, at the second
+house on the right, may observe the figure of <a
+name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span><i>the Wooden
+Midshipman</i>, previously referred to as removed from its
+original position in Leadenhall Street.&nbsp; The route being
+continued (same side) from the Minories, we can note, as we pass
+into <i>Fenchurch Street</i>, <b>Aldgate Pump</b>, standing at
+the top of Leadenhall Street.&nbsp; There is a reference to this
+old pump in &ldquo;Dombey,&rdquo; as being a stated object of
+<i>Mr. Toots&rsquo;s</i> special evening excursions from
+&ldquo;The Wooden Midshipman,&rdquo; when that gentleman desired
+some temporary relief from the hopeless contemplation of Walter
+Gay&rsquo;s happiness.</p>
+<p>The tourist will now soon arrive at (No. 42) <b>Mincing
+Lane</b>, leading to Great Tower Street.&nbsp; This short street
+is entirely occupied by wholesale merchants and brokers, and it
+will be remembered that <i>Messrs. Chicksey</i>,
+<i>Veneering</i>, <i>and Stobbles</i>, wholesale druggists,
+flourished in this locality in the days of the &ldquo;Golden
+Dustman.&rdquo;&nbsp; The fourth house on the left from Fenchurch
+Street, next to <i>Dunster Court</i>, has been indicated as the
+probable whereabouts of the firm.&nbsp; We may remember that R.
+Wilfer&rsquo;s office was on the ground-floor, next the
+gateway.</p>
+<p>Here, then, in this prosaic neighbourhood, <i>John
+Rokesmith</i>, following <i>Bella Wilfer</i>, came to the
+warehouse where Little <i>Rumty</i> was sitting at the open
+window at his tea, and much surprised that gentleman by a
+declaration of love for his daughter; what time &ldquo;The Feast
+of the Three Hobgoblins&rdquo; was so agreeably celebrated.&nbsp;
+This place is also associated with other pleasant episodes
+connected with the history of the Wilfer family, the details of
+which are fully furnished in the pages of &ldquo;Our Mutual
+Friend.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Proceeding through Mincing Lane, we turn to the right through
+<i>Eastcheap</i>, which leads westward to the top of <span
+class="smcap">Fish Street Hill</span>.&nbsp; The tourist now
+proceeds southward, passing the <i>Monument</i> on the
+left.&nbsp; At a short distance beyond (No. 34) we arrive at
+<i>King&rsquo;s Head Court</i>, &ldquo;a small paved yard,&rdquo;
+in which are certain city warehouses and a dairy.&nbsp; On the
+south side of the court, now occupied by the warehouses
+aforesaid, once stood the Commercial <b>Boarding-House of Mrs.
+Todgers</b>&mdash;an old-fashioned abode <a
+name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>even in the
+days of Mr. Pecksniff&mdash;which has long since given place to
+other commercial considerations.&nbsp; In the 9th chapter of
+&ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit&rdquo; full, true, and particular
+account is given of this establishment as it used to be.&nbsp; We
+may here call to remembrance the characters of <i>Bailey
+junior</i>, <i>Mr. Jinkins</i>, <i>Augustus Moddle</i>, and
+others in connection with the domestic economy of Mrs. Todgers
+and the several Pecksniffian associations of the place; notably,
+the festive occasion of that Sunday&rsquo;s dinner when Cherry
+and Merry were first introduced to London society; the moral Mr.
+Pecksniff thereafter exhibiting alarming symptoms of a chronic
+complaint.&nbsp; (See chapter 9.)&nbsp; And we may indulge in a
+kindly reminiscence of good-hearted Mrs. Todgers herself, worried
+with the anxieties of &ldquo;gravy&rdquo; and the eccentricities
+of commercial gentlemen.&nbsp; &ldquo;Perhaps the Good Samaritan
+was lean and lank, and found it hard to live.&rdquo;&nbsp; We now
+come to <b>London Bridge</b>, the scene of Nancy&rsquo;s
+interview with Mr. Brownlow and Rose Maylie (see &ldquo;Oliver
+Twist&rdquo;), which took place on the steps near St.
+Saviour&rsquo;s Church, on the Surrey side of the
+river&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;These stairs are a part of the bridge; they
+consist of three flights.&nbsp; Just below the end of the second,
+going down, the stone wall on the left terminates in an
+ornamental pilaster, facing towards the Thames.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And it will be remembered that <i>Noah Claypole</i> here
+ensconced himself as an unseen listener.</p>
+<p>As we come to the Surrey side of the Thames, a passing thought
+may be given to <i>Mrs. Rudge</i> and her son Barnaby, who lived
+near at hand &ldquo;in a by-street in Southwark, not far from
+London Bridge&rdquo;; and we may recall the incident of <i>Edward
+Chester</i> being brought hither by <i>Gabriel Varden</i>, having
+been found wounded by a highwayman on the other side of the
+river.&nbsp; But it is altogether impossible to locate the house,
+the neighbourhood having so entirely changed during the present
+century.&nbsp; Onwards by the main thoroughfare of the Borough,
+we shall find, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 61), the
+(former) location of &ldquo;<b>The White Hart</b>,&rdquo;
+described in &ldquo;Pickwick&rdquo; as</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+73</span>&ldquo;An old inn, which has preserved its external
+features unchanged, and which has escaped alike the rage for
+public improvement and the encroachments of private
+speculation.&nbsp; A great, rambling, queer old place, with
+galleries and passages and staircases, wide enough and antiquated
+enough to furnish materials for a hundred ghost
+stories.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The old inn has been pulled down some years since; the
+original gateway only remains, leading to White Hart Yard.&nbsp;
+A tavern and luncheon-bar of modern erection now occupy one side
+of the old coach-yard in which <i>Messrs. Pickwick</i>,
+<i>Wardle</i>, and <i>Perker</i> made their first acquaintance
+with <i>Mr. Samuel Weller</i>, on that memorable occasion when
+<i>Mr. Jingle</i> had eloped from <i>Dingley Dell</i> with
+<i>Miss Rachael Wardle</i>, and had brought the lady to this
+establishment.&nbsp; Farther on, towards the end of the Borough,
+we arrive at Angel Place, a narrow passage near to St.
+George&rsquo;s Church.&nbsp; It leads into <i>Marshalsea
+Place</i>, of which Dickens writes as follows in his preface to
+&ldquo;Little Dorrit&rdquo;:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Whoever goes into Marshalsea Place, turning
+out of Angel Court, leading to Bermondsey, will find his feet on
+the very paving-stones of the extinct Marshalsea jail; will see
+its narrow yard to the right, and to the left, very little
+altered if at all, except that the walls were lowered when the
+place got free; will look upon the rooms in which the debtors
+lived; and will stand among the crowding ghosts of many miserable
+years.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This, then, was <b>The Marshalsea Prison</b>, in which, during
+Dickens&rsquo;s youthful days, his father was imprisoned for
+debt; and the place is intimately associated with the story of
+<i>Little Dorrit</i> and her family.&nbsp; We must be all
+familiar with the Father of the Marshalsea, his brother
+Frederick, Maggie, and the several others of the <i>dramatis
+person&aelig;</i> of that charming tale.</p>
+<p><b>St. George&rsquo;s Church</b>, close at hand, will be
+remembered in connection with the above, as once affording refuge
+in its vestry for Little Dorrit, when the sexton accommodated her
+with a bed formed of the pew-cushions, the book of registers
+doing service as a pillow.&nbsp; She was afterwards married to
+Arthur Clennam in this church.&nbsp; Full particulars <a
+name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>of the
+ceremony will be found in the last chapter of the tale.&nbsp; At
+a short distance from this point, down Blackman Street, on the
+right, is (No. 90) <b>Lant Street</b>.&nbsp; In Forster&rsquo;s
+Biography it is narrated that Dickens, when a boy, lodged in this
+street what time his father was imprisoned in the
+Marshalsea.&nbsp; The house stood on part of the site now
+occupied by the Board School adjoining No. 46&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A back attic was found for me at the house
+of an insolvent-court agent, who lived in Lant Street, in the
+Borough, where <i>Bob Sawyer</i> lodged many years
+afterwards.&nbsp; A bed and bedding were sent over for me, and
+made up on the floor.&nbsp; The little window had a pleasant
+prospect of a timber-yard; and when I took possession of my new
+abode, I thought it was a Paradise.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This opinion of his boyhood seems to have been somewhat
+modified fifteen years later, when the &ldquo;Pickwick
+Papers&rdquo; were written, and Mr. Robert Sawyer had taken
+residence in the locality.&nbsp; We read&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;There is an air of repose about Lant Street, in the
+Borough, which sheds a gentle melancholy upon the soul.&nbsp; A
+house in Lant Street would not come within the denomination of a
+first-rate residence, in the strict acceptation of the term; but
+it is a most desirable spot, nevertheless.&nbsp; If a man wished
+to extract himself from the world, to remove himself from within
+the reach of temptation, to place himself beyond the possibility
+of any inducement to look out of the window, he should by all
+means go to Lant Street.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Walking onwards from &ldquo;this happy valley&rdquo; past
+Suffolk Street, to the westward, turning off <i>Borough Road</i>,
+we may note on the north corner the site of the old
+<b>King&rsquo;s Bench Prison</b>, in which <i>Mr. Micawber</i>
+was detained&mdash;in the top storey but one&mdash;pending the
+settlement of his pecuniary liabilities.&nbsp; Later on in the
+Copperfield history, Micawber appointed a meeting for David and
+Tom Traddles as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Among other havens of domestic tranquillity
+and peace of mind, my feet will naturally tend towards the
+King&rsquo;s Bench Prison.&nbsp; In stating that I shall be
+(D.V.) on the outside of the south wall of that place of
+incarceration on civil process, the day after to-morrow, at <a
+name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>seven in the
+evening, precisely, my object in this epistolary communication is
+accomplished.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>See chapter 49 for particulars of the subsequent
+interview.&nbsp; This &ldquo;<i>dead wall</i>&rdquo; of the
+prison is also mentioned in the same book as the place where
+young David requested &ldquo;the long-legged young
+man&rdquo;&mdash;who had charge of his box for conveyance to the
+Dover coach-office&mdash;to stop for a minute while he (David)
+tied on the address.&nbsp; It will be remembered that poor David
+lost his box and his money on this occasion, when he started for
+Dover,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Taking very little more out of the world,
+towards the retreat of his aunt, Miss Betsy, than he had brought
+into it on the night when his arrival gave her so much
+umbrage;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>the total sum of his remaining cash amounting to three
+half-pence.&mdash;See chapter 12.</p>
+<p>The first reference of our author to King&rsquo;s Bench Prison
+will be found in &ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby&rdquo; (chapter 46), on
+the occasion of the hero&rsquo;s first visit to <i>Madeline
+Bray</i>, who resided with her father in one</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Of a row of mean and not over cleanly
+houses, situated within &lsquo;the rules&rsquo; of the
+King&rsquo;s Bench Prison; . . . comprising some dozen streets in
+which debtors who could raise money to pay large fees&mdash;from
+which their creditors did not derive any benefit&mdash;were
+permitted to reside.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We learn from Allen&rsquo;s &ldquo;History of Surrey&rdquo;
+that these rules comprehended all St. George&rsquo;s Fields, one
+side of Blackman Street, and part of the Borough High Street,
+forming an area of about three miles in circumference.&nbsp; They
+could be purchased by the prisoners at the rate of five guineas
+for small debts, eight guineas for the first hundred pounds of
+debt, and about half that sum for every subsequent hundred.</p>
+<p>The site of the prison is now occupied by workmen&rsquo;s
+model dwellings named &ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s Buildings,&rdquo;
+divided, north and south, by Scovell&rsquo;s Road.</p>
+<p>At the opposite side (east) of <i>Newington Causeway</i>,
+which here commences, is <i>Union Road</i>, late <i>Horsemonger
+</i><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+76</span><i>Lane</i>; a short distance down which, on its south
+side, is &ldquo;<span class="smcap">The Public Playground for
+Children</span>,&rdquo; formerly the site of <b>Horsemonger Lane
+Gaol</b>, erected at the back of the Surrey Sessions House.&nbsp;
+Here the execution of the Mannings took place, November 13th,
+1849, on which occasion Charles Dickens was present.&nbsp; The
+same day he sent a notable letter to the <i>Times</i>, directing
+general attention to the demoralising effect of such public
+exhibitions; thus setting on foot an agitation which shortly
+resulted in the adoption of our present private mode of carrying
+out the last penalty of the law.&nbsp; After giving a forcible
+and graphic picture of the night scenes enacted by the disorderly
+crowd in waiting, the letter was thus continued:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When the sun rose brightly&mdash;as it
+did&mdash;it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned faces,
+so inexpressibly odious in their brutal mirth or callousness,
+that a man had cause to shrink from himself as fashioned in the
+image of the devil.&nbsp; When the two miserable creatures who
+attracted all this ghastly sight about them, were turned
+quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more pity,
+no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment, no
+more restraint in any of the previous obscenities, than if the
+name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there was
+no belief among men but that they perished like the beasts.&nbsp;
+I have seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general
+contamination and corruption in this country, and I think there
+are not many phases of London life that could surprise me.&nbsp;
+I am solemnly convinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise
+to be done in this city, in the same compass of time, could work
+such ruin as one public execution; and I stand astounded and
+appalled by the wickedness it exhibits.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. Chivery</b> resided with his family in <i>Horsemonger
+Lane</i>, in close proximity to the old prison, and kept a
+tobacconist&rsquo;s shop for the supply of his Marshalsea
+customers and the general public of the neighbourhood&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A rural establishment one storey high,
+which had the benefit of the air from the yards of Horsemonger
+Lane Jail, and the advantage of a retired walk under the wall of
+that pleasant establishment.&nbsp; The business was of too modest
+a character to support a life-size Highlander, but it maintained
+a little one on a bracket on the door-post, <a
+name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>who looked
+like a fallen cherub that had found it necessary to take to a
+kilt.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In the little back-yard of the premises, &ldquo;Young
+John&rdquo;&mdash;disappointed in love&mdash;was accustomed to
+sit and meditate; taking cold among the &ldquo;tuneless
+groves&rdquo; of the newly-washed family linen, and composing
+suitable epitaphs to his own memory, in melancholy anticipation
+of an early decease.</p>
+<p>Proceeding along the Borough Road, we arrive in due course at
+<b>St. George&rsquo;s Obelisk</b>, which stands at the
+meeting-point of six roads.&nbsp; In the twelfth chapter of
+&ldquo;David Copperfield&rdquo; we read of the Obelisk as the
+place near to which the &ldquo;long-legged young man with a very
+little empty donkey-cart&rdquo; was standing, whom David engaged
+to take his box to the Dover coach-office for sixpence.&nbsp; And
+we all remember the sad <i>d&eacute;nouement</i> of that
+engagement, as previously mentioned.&nbsp; Near at hand, at the
+top of Blackfriars Road, stands <b>The Surrey Theatre</b>, at
+which <i>Fanny Dorrit</i> was engaged as a dancer, while her
+Uncle Frederick played the clarionet in the orchestra.</p>
+<p>Crossing over to the opposite thoroughfare of <i>Lambeth
+Road</i>, the Rambler will find, at a short distance on the left,
+the entrance to <b>Bethlehem Hospital</b>, familiarly known as
+Bedlam.&nbsp; A reference to this asylum will be found in the
+pages of &ldquo;The Uncommercial Traveller,&rdquo; where our
+author implies the idea that the sane and insane are, at all
+events, equal in their dreams&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Are not all of us outside this Hospital,
+who dream more or less, in the condition of those inside it,
+every night of our lives?&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The question may afford us matter for speculation as the route
+is continued through Lambeth Road, at the end of which we turn to
+the right, in the direction of the river.&nbsp; At the angle of
+the roads, past the Lambeth Police Office, we reach
+<b>Christchurch</b>, conspicuous for style and position, at <a
+name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>which the
+Rev. Newman Hall some years since officiated.&nbsp; We may here
+recall the criticism given by Dickens with reference to this
+popular preacher in the book above referred to.&nbsp; See
+&ldquo;<i>Two Views of a Cheap Theatre</i>,&rdquo; as contained
+in &ldquo;The Uncommercial Traveller.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We now come onwards by <i>Westminster Bridge Road</i>, passing
+beneath the span of the London and South-Western Railway.&nbsp;
+Near Westminster Bridge, on the left, is the old site of
+<b>Astley&rsquo;s Theatre</b> (non-existent since 1896).&nbsp;
+This establishment had cause to bless itself once a quarter, in
+days gone by, when Christopher Nubbles, Barbara, and friends
+patronised the performance.&nbsp; We may here remember the
+occasion when Kit knocked a man over the head with his bundle of
+oranges for &ldquo;scroudging his parent with unnecessary
+violence;&rdquo; also the happy evening that followed, when
+little Jacob first saw a play and learnt what oysters meant
+(<i>vide</i> the &ldquo;Old Curiosity Shop&rdquo;).&nbsp; On the
+site formerly occupied by this favourite place of entertainment,
+there now stand five handsome houses and shops, Nos. 225 to 233
+Westminster Bridge Road.</p>
+<p>Past a few doors beyond these, above, on the same side, we
+reach <b>Lambeth Palace Road</b>, turning by which we may walk
+(or ride by tramcar) a short distance southward.&nbsp; Leaving on
+the right the seven handsome buildings of <span class="smcap">St.
+Thomas&rsquo;s Hospital</span>, we pass&mdash;on the
+left&mdash;farther on, <span class="smcap">Lambeth Episcopal
+Palace</span>, and cross the Thames by <span
+class="smcap">Lambeth Suspension Bridge</span>.</p>
+<p>On the Middlesex shore we come into <i>Millbank Street</i>,
+and bestow a brief thought on <b>Poor</b>
+&ldquo;<b>Martha</b>,&rdquo; following her in imagination as she
+took her melancholy way southward in this same street, towards
+the waste riverside locality, &ldquo;near the great blank
+prison&rdquo; of Millbank, long since replaced by <i>Tate&rsquo;s
+Gallery</i>.</p>
+<p>Here it will be remembered that <i>David Copperfield</i> and
+his trusty friend <i>Mr. Peggotty</i> saved the despairing girl
+from a self-sought and miserable death.</p>
+<p><a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>At a
+few minutes&rsquo; distance northward from the bridge, <i>Church
+Street</i> will be found, leading (left) to <i>Smith
+Square</i>.&nbsp; In this street lived <b>The Dolls&rsquo;
+Dressmaker</b>, little <i>Jenny Wren</i>.&nbsp; The whimsical
+description of the central church&mdash;<span class="smcap">St.
+John the Evangelist&rsquo;s</span>&mdash;as given in the pages of
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend,&rdquo; may be worth comparison with the
+original&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In this region are a certain little street
+called Church Street, and a certain little blind square called
+Smith Square, in the centre of which last retreat is a very
+hideous church, with four towers at the four corners, generally
+resembling some petrified monster, frightful and gigantic, on its
+back with its legs in the air.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The house in which Jenny and her father lived is stated to
+have been one of the modest little houses which stand at the
+point where the street gives into Smith Square.&nbsp; The Rambler
+will observe four houses answering this description on the north
+side of Church Street; No. 9 has been indicated as the humble
+home in question, where &ldquo;<i>the person of the
+house</i>&rdquo; and her &ldquo;<i>bad boy</i>&rdquo;
+resided.&nbsp; Here, also, <i>Lizzie Hexam</i> lodged for some
+time after the death of her father, during the days when her
+uncertain lover, <i>Eugene Wrayburn</i>, was yet a bachelor.</p>
+<p>We may now return to the main road and continue the northward
+route by <i>Abingdon Street</i>, crossing <i>Old Palace
+Yard</i>.&nbsp; A passing thought may here be given to Mr. John
+Harmon, the <i>Julius Handford</i> of &ldquo;Our Mutual
+Friend,&rdquo; who furnished the Police authorities with his
+address&mdash;The Exchequer Coffee House, Palace Yard,
+Westminster.&nbsp; Such a house of resort no longer exists in
+this vicinity.</p>
+<p>On the west side the Rambler passes the precincts of
+<b>Westminster Abbey</b>, beneath whose &ldquo;high embowed
+roof&rdquo; repose the sacred ashes of the illustrious
+dead.&nbsp; To this venerable fane&mdash;the especial
+resting-place of English literary genius&mdash;we will return
+after our concluding ramble to the birthplace of our greatest
+English novelist.</p>
+<p>The onward road takes us past the <span class="smcap">Houses
+of Parliament</span>, on the right, to <span
+class="smcap">Parliament Street</span>, leading to Whitehall and
+Charing <a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+80</span>Cross.&nbsp; At a short distance up this thoroughfare is
+Derby Street&mdash;the first turning on the right; on the north
+corner of which there stood&mdash;until 1899&mdash;an old
+public-house, &ldquo;<b>The Red Lion</b>&rdquo; (No. 48).&nbsp;
+This place may be specially noted as the house at which <i>young
+David Copperfield</i> gave his &ldquo;magnificent order&rdquo;
+for a glass of the &ldquo;Genuine Stunning,&rdquo; and where the
+landlord&rsquo;s wife gave him back the money and a kiss
+besides.&nbsp; This was an actual experience in the boyhood of
+Dickens, and is referred to in Mr. Forster&rsquo;s Biography,
+where the house is indicated as above.&nbsp; It is now being
+rebuilt and modernised.</p>
+<p>Proceeding by Whitehall, and crossing to the opposite side of
+the street, we shortly arrive at <b>The Horse Guards</b>, and may
+take passing observation of the <span class="smcap">Old
+Clock</span>&mdash;famed for its perfection of
+time-keeping&mdash;by whose warning note <i>Mark Tapley</i>
+regulated the period of the interview next referred to.&nbsp;
+Passing through the arched passage beneath, we now attain the
+eastern side of <b>St. James&rsquo;s Park</b>.&nbsp; This
+locality will be remembered as the place of meeting between
+<i>Mary Graham</i> and <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>, previous to his
+departure for America.&nbsp; As the young lady was escorted by
+Mark in the early morning from a City hotel, we may be certain
+that the interview must have taken place on this side of the
+Park, doubtless near the principal gate of the promenade facing
+the Horse Guards&rsquo; entrance.</p>
+<p>Leaving the Park northward, by <i>Spring Gardens</i>, we come
+into <i>Cockspur Street</i>, shortly leading (left) to <span
+class="smcap">Pall Mall</span>.&nbsp; At the first corner of the
+latter stands <b>Her Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre</b>.&nbsp; At this
+establishment, as reconstructed during the early years of the
+century, <i>Mrs. Nickleby</i> attended, by special invitation of
+<i>Sir Mulberry Hawk</i>, Messrs. Pyke and Pluck assisting on
+that notable occasion, when, by a prearranged coincidence, Kate
+and the Wititterlys occupied the adjoining box.&mdash;<i>Vide</i>
+&ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby,&rdquo; chapter 27.</p>
+<p>This Opera House was burnt down 1789, and rebuilt the
+following year.&nbsp; It was remodelled 1818, and again <a
+name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>destroyed by
+fire, December 6, 1867.&nbsp; Being a second time rebuilt, it
+was, for some seasons, closed since 1875.&nbsp; The present
+theatre is of recent and splendid erection.</p>
+<p>At this central position, from which we may readily take
+departure for any point in London, the present Ramble will
+terminate.&nbsp; To all those needing reparation of tissue, a
+visit to Epitaux&rsquo;s Restaurant, near the Haymarket Theatre,
+will be satisfactory.</p>
+<h2><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>RAMBLE
+VI<br />
+<i>Excursion to Chatham</i>, <i>Rochester</i>, <i>and
+Gadshill</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Emmanuel Church; Mr. Wemmick&rsquo;s
+Wedding&mdash;Dulwich; Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s
+Retirement&mdash;Dulwich Church; Marriage of Snodgrass and Emily
+Wardle&mdash;Cobham&mdash;&ldquo;The Leather Bottle;&rdquo; Tracy
+Tupman&rsquo;s Retreat&mdash;Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s
+Discovery&mdash;Chatham&mdash;Railway Street; Rome Lane
+Elementary School&mdash;The Brook; Residence of the Dickens
+Family&mdash;Clover Lane Academy; Rev. William Giles,
+Schoolmaster&mdash;Fort Pitt; Dr. Slammer&rsquo;s
+Duelling-Ground; the Recreation Ground of Chatham&mdash;Star
+Hill; Old Rochester Theatre; Mr. Jingle&rsquo;s
+Engagement&mdash;Rochester; Eastgate House; The Nuns&rsquo;
+House&mdash;Mr. Sapsea&rsquo;s Residence&mdash;Restoration House;
+Residence of Miss Havisham, &ldquo;Satis House&rdquo;&mdash;[Joe
+Gargery&rsquo;s Forge; Parish of Cooling]&mdash;The Monk&rsquo;s
+Vineyard&mdash;Minor Canon Row&mdash;Rochester Cathedral; The
+Crypts&mdash;Durdles&mdash;The Cathedral Tower&mdash;St. Nicholas
+Church&mdash;The College Gate; John Jasper&rsquo;s
+Lodging&mdash;Watts&rsquo;s Charity; &ldquo;The Seven Poor
+Travellers&rdquo;&mdash;[Watts&rsquo;s Almshouses]&mdash;Miss
+Adelaide Procter&mdash;The Bull Hotel; the Ball-room&mdash;The
+Crown Hotel; &ldquo;The Crozier&rdquo;&mdash;The
+Esplanade&mdash;Rochester Bridge; Richard
+Doubledick&mdash;Gadshill Place; Residence of
+Dickens&mdash;Gravesend; Embarkation of Mr. Peggotty and
+friends&mdash;Greenwich Park; &ldquo;Sketches by
+Boz&rdquo;&mdash;Church of St. Alphege; Bella Wilfer&rsquo;s
+Marriage&mdash;Quartermaine&rsquo;s Ship Tavern; &ldquo;An
+Innocent Elopement;&rdquo; The Rokesmith Wedding Dinner.</p>
+<p>Starting from the <i>Holborn Viaduct</i> or <i>Ludgate Hill
+Station</i> of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we cross
+the Thames and proceed <i>en route</i> for the Kentish
+uplands.&nbsp; At ten minutes&rsquo; distance from the London
+terminus, passing the Elephant and Castle and Walworth Road
+Stations, we may observe (on the left) the back of <b>Emmanuel
+Church</b>, as the train slackens speed for
+<i>Camberwell</i>.&nbsp; This may be noted as the place where
+<i>Mr. Wemmick</i> and <i>Miss Skiffins</i> were united in the
+bonds of matrimony; <a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+83</span>so we may here suitably recall the scene narrated in
+&ldquo;Great Expectations,&rdquo; and the informal and unexpected
+procedure adopted by Mr. W. on that occasion&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We went towards Camberwell Green, and when
+we were thereabouts, Wemmick said suddenly, &lsquo;Halloa!&nbsp;
+Here&rsquo;s a church!&rsquo;&nbsp; There was nothing very
+surprising in that; but again I was rather surprised when he
+said, as if he were animated by a brilliant idea,
+&lsquo;Let&rsquo;s go in!&rsquo;&nbsp; We went in and looked all
+round.&nbsp; In the meantime Wemmick was diving into his coat
+pockets, and getting something out of paper there.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Halloa!&rsquo; said he.&nbsp; &lsquo;Here&rsquo;s a couple
+of pairs of gloves!&nbsp; Let&rsquo;s put &rsquo;em
+on!&rsquo;&nbsp; As the gloves were white kid gloves, I now began
+to have my strong suspicions.&nbsp; They were strengthened into
+certainty, when I beheld the Aged enter at a side door, escorting
+a lady.&nbsp; &lsquo;Halloa!&rsquo; said Wemmick.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Here&rsquo;s Miss Skiffins!&nbsp; Let&rsquo;s have a
+wedding!&rsquo; . . .&nbsp; True to his notion of seeming to do
+it all without preparation, I heard Wemmick say to himself, as he
+took something out of his waistcoat pocket before the service
+began, &lsquo;Halloa!&nbsp; Here&rsquo;s a ring!&rsquo; . .
+.&nbsp; &lsquo;Now, Mr. Pip,&rsquo; said Wemmick triumphantly, as
+we came out, &lsquo;let me ask you whether anybody would suppose
+this to be a wedding party.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The route being continued past <i>Herne Hill Station</i>, the
+train arrives at <b>Dulwich</b>, which we may recollect <i>en
+passant</i> as being the locality of <b>Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s
+retirement</b>, before the days of railway locomotion.&nbsp; The
+house&mdash;a white, comfortable-looking residence&mdash;stands
+(left) near the station, as we approach, corresponding in style
+and position with its Pickwickian description.&nbsp; <i>Mr.
+Tupman</i>, too, may have been met with in olden time, walking in
+the public promenades or loitering in the Dulwich Picture
+Gallery&mdash;&ldquo;with a youthful and jaunty
+air&rdquo;&mdash;still in the enjoyment of single blessedness,
+and the cynosure of the numerous elderly ladies of the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p><i>Mr. Snodgrass</i> and <i>Emily Wardle</i>, as we all know,
+were married at <span class="smcap">Dulwich Church</span>, in
+this vicinity; the wedding guests&mdash;including &ldquo;the poor
+relations, who got there somehow&rdquo;&mdash;assembling at Mr.
+Pickwick&rsquo;s new house on that interesting occasion; and we
+may remember the general <a name="page84"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 84</span>verdict then unanimously given as to
+the elegance, comfort, and suitability of our old friend&rsquo;s
+suburban retreat&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Nothing was to be heard but congratulations
+and commendations.&nbsp; Everything was so beautiful!&nbsp; The
+lawn in front, the garden behind, the miniature conservatory, the
+dining-room, the drawing-room, the bedrooms, the smoking-room;
+and, above all, the study&mdash;with its pictures and easy
+chairs, and odd cabinets and queer tables, and nooks out of
+number, with a large cheerful window opening upon a pleasant
+lawn, and commanding a pretty landscape, just dotted here and
+there with little houses, almost hidden by the trees.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Weller</b> and family&mdash;retainers
+in the Pickwickian establishment&mdash;also flourished aforetime
+in these arcadian groves, in faithful attendance on their
+illustrious patron.</p>
+<p>The journey being resumed, we pass onwards (Crystal Palace on
+the right side of the railway) <i>vi&acirc; Penge</i> and
+<i>Bromley</i>, and several country towns beyond&mdash;a pleasant
+ride of about an hour&rsquo;s duration&mdash;arriving in due
+course at <b>Sole Street Station</b> (30 miles from London),
+about a mile south-west from the village of <b>Cobham</b>.&nbsp;
+A pleasant walk of twenty minutes on the high road will lead the
+wayfarer through Owlet to the pretty parish aforesaid; the rural
+retreat&mdash;famous in the annals of Pickwickian
+history&mdash;selected by <i>Mr. Tracy Tupman</i> for his
+retirement from the world, after his disappointment at the hands
+of Miss Rachael Wardle.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p84.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;Leather Bottle&rdquo;, Cobham"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;Leather Bottle&rdquo;, Cobham"
+src="images/p84.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;<b>The Leather Bottle Inn</b>&rdquo;&mdash;where he was
+found at dinner by his anxious friends&mdash;is described as
+&ldquo;a clean and commodious village ale-house,&rdquo; and still
+maintains its favourable repute.&nbsp; It stands opposite the
+church at Cobham&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At Muggleton they procured a conveyance to
+Rochester.&nbsp; By the time they reached the last-named place,
+the violence of their grief had sufficiently abated to admit of
+their making a very excellent early dinner; and having procured
+the necessary information relative to the road, the three friends
+set forward again in the afternoon to walk to Cobham.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;A delightful walk it was; for it was a pleasant
+afternoon in June, and their way lay through a deep and shady
+wood, cooled by the light wind which gently rustled the thick
+foliage, and enlivened by the songs <a name="page85"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 85</span>of the birds that perched upon the
+boughs.&nbsp; The ivy and the moss crept in thick clusters over
+the old trees, and the soft green turf overspread the ground like
+a silken mat.&nbsp; They emerged upon an open park, with an
+ancient hall, displaying the quaint and picturesque architecture
+of Elizabeth&rsquo;s time.&nbsp; Long vistas of stately oaks and
+elm-trees appeared on every side; large herds of deer were
+cropping the fresh grass; and occasionally a startled hare
+scoured along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by
+the light clouds which swept across a sunny landscape like a
+passing breath of summer.&nbsp; &lsquo;If this,&rsquo; said Mr.
+Pickwick, looking about him, &lsquo;if this were the place to
+which all who are troubled with our friend&rsquo;s complaint
+came, I fancy their old attachment to this world would very soon
+return.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;I think so too,&rsquo; said Mr. Winkle.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;And really,&rsquo; added Mr. Pickwick, after
+half-an-hour&rsquo;s walking had brought them to the village,
+&lsquo;really, for a misanthrope&rsquo;s choice, this is one of
+the prettiest and most desirable places of residence I ever met
+with.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;In this opinion also both Mr. Winkle and Mr. Snodgrass
+expressed their concurrence; and having been directed to the
+Leather Bottle, a clean and commodious village ale-house, the
+three travellers entered, and at once inquired for a gentleman of
+the name of Tupman.&nbsp; The three friends entered a long,
+low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of high-backed
+leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes, and embellished
+with a great variety of old portraits.&nbsp; At the upper end of
+the room was a table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered
+with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and et ceteras; and at the table
+sat Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a man who had taken his leave
+of the world as possible.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Resting here awhile, we may recall the &ldquo;immortal
+discovery&rdquo; made by Mr. Pickwick, &ldquo;which has been the
+pride and boast of his friends and the envy of every antiquarian
+in this or any other country&rdquo;&mdash;that famous stone found
+by the chairman of the Pickwick Club himself; &ldquo;partially
+buried in the ground in front of a cottage door,&rdquo; in this
+same village of Cobham, on which &ldquo;the following fragment of
+an inscription was clearly to be deciphered&rdquo;:&mdash;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p85.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cobham Inscription"
+title=
+"Cobham Inscription"
+src="images/p85.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>Full
+particulars are duly recorded in &ldquo;The Pickwick
+Papers,&rdquo; chapter 11.&nbsp; We may also remember the
+celebrated controversy in scientific and erudite circles, to
+which this remarkable stone gave rise; Mr. Pickwick being
+&ldquo;elected an honorary member of seventeen native and foreign
+societies for the discovery.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The journey being resumed from Sole Street, we travel
+<i>vi&acirc; Strood</i>, ten miles, to the important station
+of</p>
+<h3>CHATHAM.</h3>
+<p>Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s description (taken from his note-book
+sixty years since) is a fairly correct view of the general
+appearance of Chatham at present:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The principal productions of these towns
+appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers,
+and dockyardmen.&nbsp; The commodities chiefly exposed for sale
+in the public streets are marine stores, hard-bake, apples,
+flat-fish, and oysters.&nbsp; The streets present a lively and
+animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of
+the military.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In this city five years of Dickens&rsquo;s boyhood were
+passed.&nbsp; Mr. Dickens, senior, was appointed in 1816 to a
+clerkship at the Naval Pay Office, in connection with the Royal
+Dockyard, and the Dickens family here resided till little Charles
+was nine years of age.</p>
+<p>On arrival at the Chatham Station, we may enter the town on
+the right from the railway exit (north side of the line), shortly
+passing under an archway into <b>Railway
+Street</b>&mdash;formerly Rome Lane&mdash;in which was once
+situated the elementary school where the boy first attended, with
+his sister Fanny.&nbsp; Revisiting Chatham in after years,
+Dickens found that it had been pulled down</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Ages before, but out of the distance of the
+ages, arose, nevertheless, a not dim impression that it had been
+over a dyer&rsquo;s shop; that he went up steps to it; that he
+had frequently grazed his knees in doing so; and that in trying
+to scrape the mud off a very unsteady little shoe, he generally
+got his leg over the scraper.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>At the upper end of Railway Street we proceed (right) by the
+<i>High Street</i>, and at a short distance (left) by <i>Fair
+</i><a name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+87</span><i>Row</i> to the <i>Brook</i>.&nbsp; Turning to the
+left, we shall find, standing immediately beyond the corner, on
+the west side, the old <b>Residence of the Dickens Family</b>,
+No. 18, next door to <i>Providence Chapel</i>.&nbsp; The house is
+a modest-looking dwelling of three storeys, with white-washed
+plaster front as in former days, six steps leading up to the
+front door, and a small garden before and behind.&nbsp; The
+chapel previously referred to has been, in more recent years,
+used for meetings of the Salvation Army, since becoming a
+clothing factory.&nbsp; During the residence of the family at
+Chatham, the minister of this place of worship was a <i>Mr.
+William Giles</i>, who was also the schoolmaster of <b>Clover
+Lane Academy</b>.&nbsp; For the last two years of Charles&rsquo;s
+Chatham experience he was placed under the educational
+supervision of this young Baptist minister, whose influence seems
+to have been favourable to the development of his pupil&rsquo;s
+youthful talents.</p>
+<p>Regaining the High Street by <i>Fair Row</i>, and turning to
+the left for a short distance onwards, we reach, on the right
+hand of the street, past the Mitre Hotel, <b>Clover Street</b>,
+on the south side of which (at the corner of Richard Street) the
+Academy, with its playground behind, may still be seen.&nbsp;
+Forster says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense
+in after years, that this first of his masters, in his
+little-cared-for childhood, had pronounced him to be a boy of
+capacity; and when, about half-way through the publication of
+Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver snuff-box with admiring
+inscription to &lsquo;the inimitable Boz,&rsquo; it reminded him
+of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first
+year&rsquo;s examination in the Clover Lane Academy.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Coming through Clover Street, and turning (right) into the
+<i>New Road</i>, we shortly regain the neighbourhood of Chatham
+Station, on the south side of which a road in the westward
+direction leads to <b>Fort Pitt</b>, now the Chatham Military
+Hospital.&nbsp; Pickwickians will remember that Fort Pitt was
+indicated by Lieutenant Tappleton, the friend of the choleric
+<i>Doctor </i><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+88</span><i>Slammer</i>, as being in the vicinity of a field
+where the quarrel between the doctor and Mr. Winkle could be
+adjusted.&nbsp; This old field, and the contiguous land
+surrounding the Fort, now form <b>The Recreation Ground</b> of
+the City.&nbsp; Visitors may hence obtain an interesting and
+comprehensive view of the town and neighbourhood.&nbsp; We are,
+doubtless, all familiar with the happy termination of the affair
+of honour above referred to; the unworthy Jingle being at the
+bottom of the mischief.&nbsp; Full particulars of the dilemma may
+be found in chapter 2 of &ldquo;The Pickwick Papers.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Returning to the New Road, the Rambler, passing <span
+class="smcap">St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s Hospital</span> (founded in
+the eleventh century) on the right, may proceed by <i>Star
+Hill</i>, in the outskirts of Rochester.&nbsp; On the south side
+(left) of the descent there may be noted <i>en passant</i> the
+new building of the <span class="smcap">Rochester Conservative
+Club</span>, which stands on the site of <b>The Old
+Theatre</b>.&nbsp; Here the versatile Mr. Jingle and his
+melancholic friend, &ldquo;elegantly designated Dismal
+Jemmy,&rdquo; were engaged to perform &ldquo;in the piece that
+the Officers of the Fifty-second&rdquo; got up, when Mr. Pickwick
+commenced his travels, May 1827.</p>
+<p>The theatre was demolished December 1884.</p>
+<p>Continuing the route, we soon arrive at the central street of
+the old City of</p>
+<h3>ROCHESTER.</h3>
+<p>This place will be interesting to readers of Dickens for its
+several associations with his books, including
+&ldquo;Pickwick,&rdquo; &ldquo;Great Expectations,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;The Seven Poor Travellers,&rdquo; and &ldquo;The Mystery
+of Edwin Drood,&rdquo; his latest and uncompleted work.&nbsp; In
+chapter 3 of this last-mentioned tale is the following
+description:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;An ancient city, Cloisterham, and no meet
+dwelling-place for any one with hankerings after the noisy
+world.&nbsp; A monotonous, silent city, deriving an earthly
+flavour throughout, from its Cathedral crypt. . . .&nbsp; A
+drowsy city, Cloisterham, whose inhabitants seem to suppose, with
+an inconsistency more strange than rare, that all its changes lie
+behind <a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>it,
+and that there are no more to come. . . .&nbsp; So silent are the
+streets of Cloisterham (though prone to echo on the smallest
+provocation), that of a summer day the sunblinds of its shops
+scarce dare to flap in the south wind; while the sun-browned
+tramps who pass along and stare, quicken their limp a little that
+they may the sooner get beyond the confines of its oppressive
+respectability.&nbsp; This is a feat not difficult of
+achievement, seeing that the streets of Cloisterham city are
+little more than one narrow street by which you get into it, and
+get out of it; the rest being mostly disappointing yards with
+pumps in them and no thoroughfare&mdash;exception made of the
+Cathedral-close, and a paved Quaker settlement. . . .&nbsp; In a
+word, a city of another and a bygone time is Cloisterham, with
+its hoarse Cathedral bell, its hoarse rooks hovering about the
+Cathedral tower, its hoarser and less distinct rooks in the
+stalls far beneath.&nbsp; Fragments of old wall, saint&rsquo;s
+chapel, chapter-house, convent, and monastery have got
+incongruously or obstructively built into many of its houses and
+gardens, much as kindred jumbled notions have become incorporated
+into many of its citizens&rsquo; minds.&nbsp; All things in it
+are of the past.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p89b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Eastgate House, Rochester"
+title=
+"Eastgate House, Rochester"
+src="images/p89s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Entering the busier part of the town by the Eastgate
+thoroughfare, we may shortly observe, on the right, <b>Eastgate
+House</b>, now occupied by the <span class="smcap">City of
+Rochester Workmen&rsquo;s Club</span>.&nbsp; It is a fine old
+Elizabethan building; a well-preserved specimen of the domestic
+architecture of the sixteenth century.&nbsp; The building abuts
+on the street, with a large courtyard and entrance at the side;
+and a spacious garden is attached at the back of the house.&nbsp;
+For more than fifty years (until about twenty years since) this
+establishment flourished as a ladies&rsquo; boarding-school, and
+is referred to in the pages of &ldquo;Edwin Drood&rdquo; as
+<b>The Nuns&rsquo; House</b>, the seminary conducted by the
+eminently respectable <i>Miss Twinkleton</i>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the midst of Cloisterham stands the
+Nuns&rsquo; House; a venerable brick edifice, whose present
+appellation is doubtless derived from the legend of its
+conventual uses.&nbsp; On the trim gate enclosing its old
+courtyard, is a resplendent brass plate flashing forth the
+legend, &lsquo;Seminary for young Ladies.&nbsp; Miss
+Twinkleton.&rsquo;&nbsp; The house-front is so old and worn, and
+the brass plate is so shining and staring, that the general
+result has reminded imaginative strangers of a battered old beau
+with a large modern eye-glass stuck in his blind eye.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the opposite side of the High Street (Nos. 146 and 147)
+stands <a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+90</span><b>Mr. Sapsea&rsquo;s House</b>.&nbsp; It will be
+remembered that we are introduced to <i>Mr. Thomas Sapsea</i>,
+auctioneer and Mayor of Cloisterham, in the 4th chapter of the
+same book, as being &ldquo;the purest jackass&rdquo; in the town;
+adopting, in his voice and style, the professional mannerism of
+his superiors&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mr. Sapsea &lsquo;dresses at&rsquo; the
+Dean; has been bowed to for the Dean, in mistake; has even been
+spoken to in the street as My Lord, under the impression that he
+was the Bishop come down unexpectedly, without his
+chaplain.&nbsp; Mr. Sapsea is very proud of this, and of his
+voice, and of his style.&nbsp; He has even (in selling landed
+property) tried the experiment of slightly intoning in his
+pulpit, to make himself more like what he takes to be the genuine
+ecclesiastical article.&nbsp; So, in ending a Sale by Public
+Auction, Mr. Sapsea finishes off with an air of bestowing a
+benediction on the assembled brokers, which leaves the real
+Dean&mdash;a modest and worthy gentleman&mdash;far
+behind.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Much of the humorous element of the tale is connected with
+this character.&nbsp; According to local tradition, Mr. S. is
+supposed to be a combination of two well-known townsmen, formerly
+resident in <i>Rochester</i>; a councilman who lived at the above
+address, and an auctioneer, once mayor of the city, over whose
+door the pulpit spoken of in &ldquo;Edwin Drood&rdquo; could have
+been seen&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Over the doorway is a wooden effigy, about
+half life-size, representing Mr. Sapsea&rsquo;s father, in a
+curly wig and toga, in the act of selling.&nbsp; The chastity of
+the idea, and the natural appearance of the little figure,
+hammer, and pulpit, have been much admired.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Both the aforesaid local prototypes have departed this life
+some time since, and the premises have been occupied by others
+(equally competent, but less pretentious) of that ilk.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p90.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Restoration House, Rochester"
+title=
+"Restoration House, Rochester"
+src="images/p90.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We now turn on the left into <i>Crow Lane</i>; at the further
+end of which, on the south side, stands <b>Restoration House</b>,
+another specimen of the Elizabethan style, in the present
+occupation of Stephen T. Aveling, Esq.&nbsp; This residence is of
+interest as being the <i>Satis House</i> of &ldquo;Great
+Expectations,&rdquo; in which <i>Miss Havisham</i> lived.&nbsp;
+We may recollect the circumstance of <i>Pip</i> being escorted in
+<i>Mr. Pumblechook&rsquo;s</i> chaise-cart to this address,
+&ldquo;to play&rdquo; <a name="page91"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 91</span>for the diversion of Miss
+Havisham.&nbsp; Here he first met <i>Estella</i>, who then
+treated him with extreme contempt, but with whom he fell
+desperately in love notwithstanding.&nbsp; Pip says, when
+speaking of his departure from the house:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I set off on the four-mile walk to our
+forge, pondering, as I went along, on all I had seen, and deeply
+revolving that I was a common labouring-boy: that my hands were
+coarse; that my boots were thick; that I had fallen into a
+despicable habit of calling knaves Jacks; that I was much more
+ignorant than I had considered myself last night, and generally
+that I was in a low-lived bad way.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>[<b>Joe Gargery&rsquo;s Forge</b> and wooden house were in the
+little village of <i>Cooling</i>, six miles north of
+Rochester.&nbsp; The greater part of the parish is marsh-land,
+extending to the Thames.&nbsp; Mr. Forster recalls, in his
+biography, the occasion when he and his friend stood on the spot;
+Dickens saying that &ldquo;he meant to make it the scene of the
+opening of his story&mdash;Cooling Castle ruins, and the desolate
+church lying out among the marshes, seven miles from
+Gadshill.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here it was that Pip met the convict
+<i>Magwitch</i>&mdash;by secret appointment&mdash;and supplied
+him with &ldquo;wittles&rdquo; and a file, thus materially
+influencing his own future fortunes.]</p>
+<p>Turning to the left, we reach the <i>Promenade and Recreation
+Ground</i>, called &ldquo;The Vines,&rdquo; an open space of more
+than three acres, formerly the vinery of the ancient
+Priory.&nbsp; It is referred to in &ldquo;Edwin Drood,&rdquo;
+chapter 14, as the <b>Monk&rsquo;s Vineyard</b>, in which, near a
+wicket-gate in a corner, Edwin met the old woman from the
+opium-smoking den in the East end of London, from whom he
+received warning of a threatened danger.&nbsp; This is the last
+occasion that we read of Edwin Drood previous to his mysterious
+disappearance&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The woman&rsquo;s words are in the rising
+wind, in the angry sky, in the troubled water, in the flickering
+lights.&nbsp; There is some solemn echo of them even in the
+Cathedral chime, which strikes a sudden surprise to his heart as
+he turns in under the archway of the Gate house.&nbsp; And so he
+goes up the postern stair.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Passing on the right the handsome residence of the <a
+name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>Head Master
+of the Grammar School, we cross the Vines, and turn on the right
+hand to <b>Minor Canon Row</b>, a terrace of seven red-brick
+houses at the north end of <i>St. Margaret Street</i> and on the
+south side of the Cathedral Close.&nbsp; This locality bears the
+appellation, in the before-mentioned book, of <b>Minor Canon
+Corner</b>, the residence of the <i>Rev. Septimus Crisparkle</i>
+and his mother, the &ldquo;china shepherdess.&rdquo;&nbsp; In
+chapter 6 we find the following pleasant reference to the
+same:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Minor Canon Corner was a quiet place in the
+shadow of the Cathedral, which the cawing of the rooks, the
+echoing footsteps of rare passers, the sound of the Cathedral
+bell, or the roll of the Cathedral organ, seemed to render more
+quiet than absolute silence. . . .&nbsp; Red-brick walls
+harmoniously toned down in colour by time, strong-rooted ivy,
+latticed windows, panelled rooms, big oaken beams in little
+places, and stone-walled gardens where annual fruit yet ripened
+upon monkish trees, were the principal surroundings of pretty old
+Mrs. Crisparkle and the Reverend Septimus as they sat at
+breakfast.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Immediately north of this position stands the old <b>Cathedral
+of Rochester</b>, with its &ldquo;well-known massive grey square
+tower,&rdquo; in which, we may remember, the respected <i>Mr.
+John Jasper</i> was engaged as Lay Precentor; with the reputation
+of being devoted to his art, and &ldquo;having done such wonders
+with the choir.&rdquo;&nbsp; In the interior, on the wall of the
+south-west transept, is a quaint monument to the memory of
+<i>Richard Watts</i>, a prominent townsman to whom further
+reference will be made.&nbsp; Underneath this is placed a brass
+memorial-tablet, inscribed&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Charles
+Dickens</span>.&mdash;Born at Portsmouth, seventh of February
+1812.&nbsp; Died at Gadshill Place, by Rochester, ninth of June
+1870.&nbsp; Buried in Westminster Abbey.&nbsp; To connect his
+memory with the scenes in which his earliest and his latest years
+were passed, and with the associations of Rochester Cathedral and
+its neighbourhood, which extended over all his life, this tablet,
+with the sanction of the Dean and Chapter, is placed by his
+executors.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The author&rsquo;s latest suggestive sketch, in association
+with this ancient fane, may be here suitably recalled:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+93</span>&ldquo;A brilliant morning shines on the old city.&nbsp;
+Its antiquities and ruins are surpassingly beautiful, with the
+lusty ivy gleaming in the sun, and the rich trees waving in the
+balmy air.&nbsp; Changes of glorious light from moving boughs,
+songs of birds, scents from gardens, woods, and fields&mdash;or,
+rather, from the one great garden of the whole cultivated island
+in its yielding time&mdash;penetrate into the Cathedral, subdue
+its earthy odour, and preach the Resurrection and the Life.&nbsp;
+The cold stone tombs of centuries ago grow warm; and flecks of
+brightness dart into the sternest marble corners of the building,
+fluttering there like wings.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Crypts</b> below contain the &ldquo;buried magnates of
+ancient time and high degree,&rdquo; with whom <b>Durdles</b>,
+the stonemason, was on terms of intimate familiarity&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the demolition of impedimental fragments
+of wall, buttress, and pavement he has seen strange sights. . .
+.&nbsp; Thus he will say, &lsquo;Durdles come upon the old chap,
+by striking right into the coffin with his pick.&nbsp; The old
+chap gave Durdles a look with his open eyes, as much as to say,
+Is your name Durdles?&nbsp; Why, my man, I&rsquo;ve been waiting
+for you a Devil of a time!&rsquo; And then he turned to
+powder.&nbsp; With a two-foot rule always in his pocket, and a
+mason&rsquo;s hammer all but always in his hand, Durdles goes
+continually sounding, and tapping all about and about the
+Cathedral; and whenever he says to Tope, &lsquo;Tope,
+here&rsquo;s another old &rsquo;un in here,&rsquo; Tope announces
+it to the Dean as an established discovery.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It is believed that the prototype of this character was an old
+German working stonemason, who lived at Rochester many years
+since.&nbsp; He employed himself by carving various grotesque
+figures out of odd fragments of soft stone found in the Cathedral
+crypt, which he begged for the purpose; and it is recollected
+that he was accustomed to carry these articles of <i>vertu</i>
+about the town, tied up in a coloured handkerchief; also that,
+whenever he succeeded in effecting a sale, he immediately
+celebrated the transaction by getting very tipsy.&nbsp; He lodged
+at a public-house named &ldquo;The Fortune of War,&rdquo; now
+known as &ldquo;<i>The Lifeboat</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Chapter 12, headed &ldquo;A Night with Durdles,&rdquo;
+contains a description of the ascent of the <b>Cathedral
+Tower</b>, to the following effect:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They go up the winding staircase . . .
+among the cobwebs and <a name="page94"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 94</span>the dust.&nbsp; Twice or thrice they
+emerge into level low-arched galleries, whence they can look down
+into the moonlight nave. . .&nbsp; Anon they turn into narrower
+and steeper staircases, and the night air begins to blow upon
+them, and the chirp of some startled jackdaw or frightened rook
+precedes the heavy beating of wings in a confined space, and the
+beating down of dust and straws upon their heads.&nbsp; At last,
+leaving their light behind a stair&mdash;for it blows fresh up
+here&mdash;they look down on Cloisterham, fair to see in the
+moonlight: its ruined habitations and sanctuaries of the dead, at
+the tower&rsquo;s base: its moss-softened red-tiled roofs and
+red-brick houses of the living, clustered beyond: its river
+winding down from the mist on the horizon, as though that were
+its source, and already heaving with a restless knowledge of its
+approach towards the sea.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Before leaving the Cathedral precincts, on the north side we
+soon pass <b>St. Nicholas Church</b>, and may note its pleasant
+little graveyard&mdash;&ldquo;where daisies blossom on the
+verdant sod&rdquo;&mdash;lying near the old walls of the Castle
+and its contiguous gardens.&nbsp; It is said that this is the
+spot which Dickens himself would have preferred as his last
+resting-place.</p>
+<p>We now approach the High Street by <b>The College Gate</b>
+(facing <i>Pump Lane</i>), an old gatehouse with archway, having
+two exterior doors, standing angle-wise in the street, with a
+small postern at the back of the gate.&nbsp; The house, now
+occupied by the assistant verger, is a gabled wooden structure of
+two storeys, built over the stone gateway beneath.&nbsp; Students
+of Dickens will remember that this was the residence of <i>Mr.
+Tope</i>, &ldquo;chief verger and showman&rdquo; of the
+Cathedral, with whom lodged Mr. John Jasper, the uncle of Edwin
+Drood.&nbsp; It is first referred to in the 2nd chapter of the
+book: &ldquo;an old stone gatehouse crossing the Close, with an
+arched thoroughfare passing beneath it,&rdquo; decorated by
+&ldquo;pendant masses of ivy and creeper covering the
+building&rsquo;s front.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here Mr. Jasper entertained
+his nephew and his nephew&rsquo;s friend; and we also read of
+<i>Mr. Grewgious</i> climbing &ldquo;the postern
+stair.&rdquo;&nbsp; On this latter occasion the old lawyer called
+on Mr. Jasper, visiting Cloisterham in preparation for their
+formal release as trustees on Edwin&rsquo;s attaining his
+majority.</p>
+<p>Turning to the right, on the opposite side of the High <a
+name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Street, we
+soon reach a stone-fronted edifice, with small windows and three
+gables, known as <b>The Poor Travellers&rsquo; House</b>.&nbsp;
+This charity was established 1579, by a local philanthropist,
+<span class="smcap">Richard Watts</span>, formerly citizen of
+Rochester, who rose from a humble position to be Member of
+Parliament for the City.&nbsp; He entertained Queen Elizabeth at
+his mansion (in 1573), a white house situated near the Castle
+gardens, and called <i>Satis House</i>.&nbsp; It will be
+recollected that Dickens transferred this name to Restoration
+House, situated in Crow Lane.&nbsp; It is said that the
+appellation was bestowed on the mansion by the virgin queen
+herself, in recognition of the &ldquo;satisfactory&rdquo;
+entertainment afforded by her host.&nbsp; <i>Estella</i> gives
+another explanation of the title: &ldquo;It meant, when it was
+given, that whoever had this house could want nothing else.&nbsp;
+They must have been easily satisfied.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Watts&rsquo;s Charity</b>, the Travellers&rsquo; Rest
+aforesaid, is associated with the Christmas Number of
+<i>Household Words</i> (1854), entitled &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">The Seven Poor Travellers</span>;&rdquo; in which
+the inscription over the quaint old door is reproduced as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">RICHARD WATTS, ESQ.,<br
+/>
+by his will dated 22 August 1579,<br />
+founded this charity<br />
+for six poor travellers,<br />
+Who not being Rogues, or Proctors<br />
+may receive gratis for one night,<br />
+Lodging, Entertainment,<br />
+and four-pence each.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The entertainment herein specified comprises for each
+traveller, a supper of half a pound of freshly-cooked meat, one
+pound of bread, and a half-pint of beer, which is given in
+addition to the stated fourpence payable in the morning.</p>
+<p>[This gentleman&rsquo;s memory is also perpetuated in the
+charitable annals of the district by a handsome pile of
+buildings, in the Elizabethan style, on the Maidstone Road,
+called <span class="smcap">Watts&rsquo;s
+Almshouses</span>&mdash;with pleasure-grounds in <a
+name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>front,
+affording accommodation for ten men and ten women, who also
+receive twelve shillings each per week.&nbsp; The Institution is
+superintended by a matron and governed by sixteen trustees.]</p>
+<p>We are doubtless familiar with the Christmas Eve entertainment
+here provided by the narrator of &ldquo;The Seven Poor
+Travellers,&rdquo; as above:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;It was settled that at nine o&rsquo;clock
+that night a Turkey and a piece of Roast Beef should smoke upon
+the board, and that I, faint and unworthy minister for once of
+Master Richard Watts, should preside as the Christmas-supper host
+of the six Poor Travellers.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And we must all have a vivid recollection of the processional
+order of supply on that festive opportunity:&mdash;</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><blockquote><p style="text-align:
+center">&ldquo;Myself with the pitcher.<br />
+Ben with Beer.</p>
+</blockquote>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Inattentive Boy
+with hot plates.</p>
+</blockquote>
+</td>
+<td><blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Inattentive Boy
+with hot plates.</p>
+</blockquote>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">The Turkey</span>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Female carrying sauces to be heated
+on the spot.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">The
+Beef</span>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Man with Tray on his head,
+containing Vegetables and<br />
+Sundries.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Volunteer Hostler from Hotel,
+grinning,<br />
+and rendering no assistance.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>After hearty discussion of the orthodox plum-pudding and
+mince-pies which crowned the feast, the company drew round the
+fire, and the &ldquo;brown beauty&rdquo; of the host&mdash;the
+pitcher, carried first in the procession&mdash;was elevated to
+the table.&nbsp; It proved to be &ldquo;a glorious jorum&rdquo;
+of hot Wassail, prepared from the chairman&rsquo;s special and
+private receipt, the materials of which, &ldquo;together with
+their proportions and combinations,&rdquo; he declines to
+impart.&nbsp; Glasses being filled therefrom, the toast of the
+evening was duly and reverently honoured: &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">Christmas</span>!&nbsp; <span
+class="smcap">Christmas Eve</span>, my friends; when the
+Shepherds, who were poor travellers too, in their way, heard the
+angels sing, &lsquo;On earth peace.&nbsp; Goodwill toward
+men!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>The pen
+of the &ldquo;Inimitable&rdquo; was never in more genial feather
+than when inditing this Christmas story, the cheery and
+sympathetic humour of which is not excelled even by the
+&ldquo;Carol&rdquo; itself.</p>
+<p>Another Dickensian association with this Rochester Charity may
+be quoted in connection with <b>Miss Adelaide Procter</b>.&nbsp;
+During &rsquo;54 this lady had been a valued contributor to
+<i>Household Words</i>, under the assumed name of
+&ldquo;Berwick,&rdquo; and some speculation arose in the
+editorial department as to the real personality of the
+writer.&nbsp; The <i>nom de plume</i> being, in course of time,
+relinquished, and the secret told, Mr. Dickens sent a letter of
+congratulation and appreciation to the young
+authoress&mdash;dated December 17th, 1854&mdash;which thus
+concluded: &ldquo;Pray accept the blessing and forgiveness of
+Richard Watts, though I am afraid you come under <i>both his
+conditions of exclusion</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Retracing the High Street route, we again pass the Gate-house
+of the Cathedral Close, and come, immediately on the left, to the
+noted <b>Bull Hotel</b>, a commodious establishment of ancient
+and respectable repute, and the principal posting-house of the
+town.&nbsp; This is the celebrated hostelry at which the
+Pickwickians sojourned on the occasion of their first visit to
+Rochester, per &ldquo;Commodore&rdquo; coach from London.&nbsp;
+In the large assembly-room upstairs&mdash;&ldquo;a long room,
+with crimson-covered benches, and wax candles in glass
+chandeliers, with the musicians securely confined in an elevated
+den&rdquo;&mdash;the memorable Ball took place, on the evening of
+their arrival, which was attended by <i>Mr. Tupman</i> and his
+seductive friend <i>Jingle</i>; the latter affording some
+information as to the exclusive character of Rochester
+society:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Wait a minute,&rsquo; said the
+stranger, &lsquo;fun presently&mdash;nobs not come
+yet&mdash;queer place.&nbsp; Dockyard people of upper rank
+don&rsquo;t know Dockyard people of lower rank.&nbsp; Dockyard
+people of lower rank don&rsquo;t know small gentry&mdash;small
+gentry don&rsquo;t know tradespeople&mdash;Commissioner
+don&rsquo;t know anybody.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here Mr. Jingle, on that fateful occasion, gave dire <a
+name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>offence to
+Doctor Slammer, of the 97th Regiment, by making himself
+obtrusively agreeable to the rich little widow, Mrs. Budger; and
+we may remember how the Doctor, with his &ldquo;hitherto
+bottled-up indignation effervescing from all parts of his
+countenance in a perspiration of passion,&rdquo; insisted on a
+hostile meeting.</p>
+<p>The hotel has a frontage of about 90 feet, with wide pillared
+gateway, and extensive stabling at the back.&nbsp; Proceeding
+past the Guildhall on the right, towards the end of the street,
+facing Rochester Bridge, we arrive at <b>The Crown Hotel</b>,
+pleasantly situated at the corner of the Esplanade and High
+Street, one side of the house facing the Medway; a white-brick
+edifice lately rebuilt.&nbsp; It is referred to in chapter 18 of
+&ldquo;Edwin Drood&rdquo; as &ldquo;<i>The Crozier</i>,&rdquo;
+the orthodox hotel at which <i>Mr. Datchery</i> took up his
+temporary abode, previous to settling in Cloisterham as &ldquo;a
+single buffer&mdash;an idle dog who lived upon his
+means.&rdquo;&nbsp; Other visitors to Rochester may
+advantageously imitate Mr. Datchery&rsquo;s example, the position
+and conduct of the house being alike excellent.</p>
+<p>Round the corner to the left, commences <b>The Esplanade</b>,
+extending under the castle walls, and along the bank of the river
+for a considerable distance.&nbsp; This promenade is mentioned in
+the 13th chapter of &ldquo;Edwin Drood,&rdquo; being the scene of
+the last interview between Edwin and Rosa, when they mutually
+agreed to cancel the irksome bond between them&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They walked on by the river.&nbsp; They
+began to speak of their separate plans.&nbsp; He would quicken
+his departure from England, and she would remain where she was,
+at least as long as Helena remained.&nbsp; The poor dear girls
+should have their disappointment broken to them gently, and, as
+the first preliminary, Miss Twinkleton should be confided in by
+Rosa, even in advance of the reappearance of Mr. Grewgious.&nbsp;
+It should be made clear in all quarters that she and Edwin were
+the best of friends.&nbsp; There had never been so serene an
+understanding between them since they were first
+affianced.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Leaving Rochester by <b>The Bridge</b>, crossing the Medway,
+we may bestow a passing thought on <i>Richard Doubledick</i> as
+he came over the <a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+99</span>same, &ldquo;with half a shoe to his dusty feet,&rdquo;
+in the year 1799, limping into the town of Chatham.&nbsp; (See
+&ldquo;The Seven Poor Travellers,&rdquo; previously
+mentioned.)</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p99.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Gadshill Place"
+title=
+"Gadshill Place"
+src="images/p99.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>On the north side of the river, the Rambler enters the town of
+<i>Strood</i>, and may proceed through the same, about two miles
+on the Gravesend Road, to</p>
+<h3>GADSHILL PLACE,</h3>
+<p>the last residence of Charles Dickens.&nbsp; It is situated on
+the left-hand side, nearly opposite the <i>Falstaff
+Inn</i>.&nbsp; The house was purchased by him on the 14th of
+March 1856, for &pound;1790; and he afterwards projected and
+carried out many costly additions and improvements thereto.&nbsp;
+On the first-floor landing is displayed an illuminated frame (the
+work of Mr. Owen Jones), which reads as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">This House</span>, <span
+class="smcap">Gadshill Place</span>, stands on the summit of
+Shakespeare&rsquo;s Gadshill, ever memorable for its association
+with Sir John Falstaff in his noble
+fancy&mdash;&lsquo;<i>But</i>, <i>my lads</i>, <i>my lads</i>,
+<i>to-morrow morning</i>, <i>by four o&rsquo;clock</i>, <i>early
+at Gadshill</i>! <i>there are pilgrims going to Canterbury with
+rich offerings</i>, <i>and traders riding to London with fat
+purses</i>: <i>I have vizards for you all</i>; <i>you have horses
+for yourselves</i>.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>On this residence Dickens had fixed his choice in his boyish
+days.&nbsp; It had always held a prominent place amid the
+recollections connected with his childhood.&nbsp; Forster says
+that &ldquo;upon first seeing it as he came from Chatham with his
+father, and looking up at it with admiration, he had been
+promised that he might live in it himself, or some such house,
+when he came to be a man, if he would only work hard
+enough.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is pleasant to record that this ambition
+was gratified in after life, when the dream of his boyhood was
+realised.</p>
+<p>In the contiguous shrubbery was placed a <b>Swiss Chalet</b>,
+presented to Dickens by his friend Mr. Fechter, which arrived
+from Paris in ninety-four pieces, fitting like the joints of a
+puzzle.&nbsp; Our author was fond of working in this chalet
+during the summer months; and in it, much of the material of his
+latest work was prepared.</p>
+<p><a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>In
+sad association with Gadshill Place, we must refer to the
+unexpected <b>Death of Charles Dickens</b>, which occurred here
+on the 9th of June 1870.&nbsp; He had been feeling weary and
+fatigued for some days previous to this date, but had
+nevertheless continued to work with cheerfulness, writing in the
+chalet, in preparation of the sixth number of &ldquo;Edwin
+Drood.&rdquo;&nbsp; On the 8th of June, whilst at dinner, he was
+suddenly attacked with apoplexy, and never spoke afterwards; and
+on the evening of the following day&mdash;with one rolling tear
+and one deep sigh&mdash;his gentle spirit soared beyond these
+earthly shadows,</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">&ldquo;Into the Land of
+the Great Departed,<br />
+Into the Silent Land.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>An interval being allowed for refreshments at the Falstaff
+Inn, <i>&agrave; discr&eacute;tion</i>, we may resume the road
+onwards to the nearest station of <span
+class="smcap">Higham</span>&mdash;about a mile
+distant&mdash;whence the South-Eastern Railway may be taken for
+the homeward journey.&nbsp; At five miles&rsquo; distance we
+reach <b>Gravesend</b>, which is situated at the foot of the
+hills, extending for some two miles on the south side of the
+Thames.&nbsp; This town is the boundary of the port of London, at
+which many outward and homeward bound vessels on foreign service
+receive or discharge their passengers and freight.&nbsp; As we
+pass this station we may remember that in chapter 57 of
+&ldquo;David Copperfield,&rdquo; Gravesend is referred to as the
+starting-point of <b>Mr. Peggotty</b> and his niece, emigrating
+to Australia, and accompanied by <i>Martha</i>, <i>Mrs.
+Gummidge</i>, <i>and the Micawber family</i>.&nbsp; The parting
+with his friends David describes as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We went over the side into our boat, and
+lay at a little distance to see the ship wafted on her
+course.&nbsp; It was then calm, radiant sunset.&nbsp; She lay
+between us and the red light, and every taper line and spar was
+visible against the glow.&nbsp; A sight at once so beautiful, so
+mournful, and so hopeful, as the glorious ship lying still on the
+flushed water, with all the life on board her crowded at the
+bulwarks, and there clustering for a moment, bareheaded and
+silent, I never saw.&nbsp; Silent, <a name="page101"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 101</span>only for a moment.&nbsp; As the
+sails rose to the wind, and the ship began to move, there broke
+from all the boats three resounding cheers, which those on board
+took up and echoed back, and which were echoed and re-echoed . .
+.&nbsp; Surrounded by the rosy light . . . they solemnly passed
+away.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the
+Rambler will arrive in due course at the station of <span
+class="smcap">Greenwich</span>, eighteen miles from
+Gravesend.&nbsp; Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the
+south side of the line&mdash;through <i>London Street</i>,
+turning right by end of <i>Church Street</i>&mdash;will lead us
+to the entrance of <b>Greenwich Park</b>.&nbsp; This well-known
+place of popular resort was referred to by Dickens in his first
+contributions to the <i>Evening Chronicle</i>, 1835, which were
+afterwards collected under the name of &ldquo;Sketches by
+Boz.&rdquo;&nbsp; The sketch is entitled &ldquo;<i>Greenwich
+Fair</i>,&rdquo; and gives descriptions of the doings in the park
+at that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The principal amusement is to drag young
+ladies up the steep hill which leads to the Observatory, and then
+drag them down again at the very top of their speed, greatly to
+the derangement of their curls and bonnet-caps, and much to the
+edification of lookers-on from below.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by
+<i>Church Street</i>, on the left hand of which, past <i>London
+Street</i>, stands the <b>Church of St. Alphege</b>, a handsome
+edifice in classic style.&nbsp; The happy wedding of <i>Bella
+Wilfer</i> and <i>John Rokesmith</i>, otherwise <i>Harmon</i>,
+here took place, in the presence of a &ldquo;gruff and glum old
+pensioner&rdquo; from the neighbouring hospital, with two wooden
+legs.&nbsp; We may also recall the circumstance of Mr. and Mrs.
+Boffin&rsquo;s attendance, that worthy couple being hid away near
+the church organ.</p>
+<p>Following the route northward, we may soon reach <i>King
+William Street</i>, by the river side, in which is situated
+<b>Quartermaine&rsquo;s Ship Tavern</b>.&nbsp; This is the place
+where the &ldquo;lovely woman&rdquo; and her father once dined
+together on the occasion of their &ldquo;innocent
+elopement.&rdquo;&nbsp; (See &ldquo;Our <a
+name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>Mutual
+Friend,&rdquo; chapter 8, Book 2.)&nbsp; It may be also
+remembered as the hotel at which was celebrated the wedding
+dinner of <i>Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith</i> aforesaid, &ldquo;dear
+little Pa&rdquo; being the honoured guest of that blissful
+opportunity.&nbsp; We may here also recollect the dignified
+bearing of the head waiter&mdash;The Archbishop of
+Greenwich&mdash;&ldquo;a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a
+white cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than
+<i>the</i> clergyman, and seemed to have mounted a great deal
+higher in the church.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Greenwich</span>, a short ride of
+twenty minutes (six miles), following the course of the river,
+will bring us to the <span class="smcap">Charing Cross
+Terminus</span>, in central London.</p>
+<h2><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+103</span>RAMBLE VII<br />
+Excursion to Canterbury and Dover</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Route by London, Chatham and Dover Railway,
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Sittingbourne and Faversham to Canterbury; The
+Queen&rsquo;s Head Inn, &ldquo;the little hotel&rdquo; patronised
+by the Micawbers&mdash;By Mercery Lane and Christ Church Gate to
+Cathedral Close for King&rsquo;s School, the Establishment at
+which David Copperfield was educated&mdash;Dr. Strong&rsquo;s
+House&mdash;The Fleur de Lys Hotel; Mr. Dick&rsquo;s
+stopping-place at Canterbury&mdash;The George and Dragon Inn; the
+old London Coach Office&mdash;Palace Street and Church of St.
+Alphege; the scene of Dr. Strong&rsquo;s marriage to Miss Annie
+Markleham&mdash;No. 65 North Lane, the &ldquo;&rsquo;umble
+dwelling&rdquo; of Uriah Heep, afterwards the residence of the
+Micawber Family&mdash;71 St. Dunstan Street; Mr.
+Wickfield&rsquo;s house, and Home of Agnes&mdash;Canterbury to
+Dover&mdash;Corner of Church and Castle Streets, Market Place;
+David&rsquo;s resting-place&mdash;Priory Hill, Stanley Mount;
+Miss Betsy Trotwood&rsquo;s Residence&mdash;&ldquo;The
+King&rsquo;s Head&rdquo;; Mr. Lorry, Lucie Manette, and Miss
+Pross&mdash;The Staplehurst Disaster&mdash;Postscript to
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The excursion proposed in Ramble VI. to Chatham, Rochester,
+Gadshill, etc. (see page 82), could be advantageously extended to
+include <span class="smcap">Canterbury</span> and <span
+class="smcap">Dover</span>, for visiting the localities in these
+towns associated with the history of David Copperfield.</p>
+<p>Beyond <b>Chatham</b> the journey is continued on the <span
+class="smcap">London</span>, <span class="smcap">Chatham and
+Dover Railway</span>, by three minor stations to <span
+class="smcap">Sittingbourne</span>, formerly a favourite
+resting-place for pilgrims (as its name would seem to indicate)
+<i>en route</i> for Canterbury; but the modern mode of travel
+only now necessitates a halt of twenty minutes.&nbsp; Passing
+<span class="smcap">Teynsham</span> and <span
+class="smcap">Faversham</span>, the train proceeds by the
+intermediate station of <span class="smcap">Selling</span>, to
+the fair old city of</p>
+<h3>CANTERBURY,</h3>
+<p>pleasantly situated on the banks of the Stour.&nbsp; Seat of
+the <a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+104</span>Primate of England, where, as Mr. Micawber writes,
+&ldquo;the society may be described as a happy admixture of the
+agricultural and the clerical.&rdquo;&nbsp; A quaint and quiet
+cathedral town, redolent with fragrant memories of <i>Agnes
+Wickfield</i>, fairest type of English womanhood&mdash;her
+father, and friends.</p>
+<p>Proceeding from the station towards the Cathedral, by <span
+class="smcap">Castle Street</span>, we reach the old Roman road
+of <span class="smcap">Watling Street</span> (extending from
+Chester to Dover), at the south corner of which (right), and
+facing <span class="smcap">St. Margaret Street</span>, stands the
+&ldquo;<b>Queen&rsquo;s Head Inn</b>.&rdquo;&nbsp; This is
+&ldquo;the little hotel&rdquo; patronised by Mr. and Mrs.
+Micawber on the occasion of their first visit to Canterbury, as
+related in chapter 17 of &ldquo;David
+Copperfield&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Somebody turns up.&rdquo;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;It was a little inn where Mr. Micawber put
+up, and he occupied a little room in it, partitioned off from the
+commercial room, and strongly flavoured with tobacco smoke.&nbsp;
+I think it was over the kitchen, because a warm greasy smell
+appeared to come up through the chinks in the floor, and there
+was a flabby perspiration on the walls.&nbsp; I know it was near
+the bar, on account of the smell of spirits and jingling of
+glasses.&nbsp; Here, recumbent on a small sofa, underneath a
+picture of a race-horse, with her head close to the fire, and her
+feet pushing the mustard off the dumb-waiter at the other end of
+the room, was Mrs. Micawber, to whom Mr. Micawber entered first,
+saying, &lsquo;My dear, allow me to introduce to you a pupil of
+Dr. Strong&rsquo;s.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It will be remembered that the amiable lady thus referred to,
+here confidentially explained to David the reason of their visit
+to this part of the country&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Mr. Micawber was induced to think,
+on inquiry, that there might be an opening for a man of his
+talent in the Medway Coal Trade.&nbsp; Then, as Mr. Micawber very
+properly said, the first step to be taken clearly was to come and
+see the Medway; which we came and saw.&nbsp; I say
+&lsquo;we,&rsquo; Master Copperfield, &lsquo;for I never
+will,&rsquo; said Mrs. Micawber with emotion, &lsquo;I never will
+desert Mr. Micawber. . . .&nbsp; Being so near here, Mr. Micawber
+was of opinion that it would be rash not to come on and see the
+Cathedral&mdash;firstly, on account of its being so well worth
+seeing, and our never having seen it; and, secondly, on account
+of the great probability of something turning up in a cathedral
+town.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We may also recollect the dinner and convivial evening <a
+name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>thereafter,
+celebrated two days later at this address, when David attended as
+the honoured guest of the occasion&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We had a beautiful little dinner.&nbsp;
+Quite an elegant dish of fish; the kidney-end of a loin of veal,
+roasted; fried sausage-meat; a partridge, and a pudding.&nbsp;
+There was wine, and there was strong ale; and after dinner Mrs.
+Micawber made us a bowl of hot punch with her own hands.&nbsp;
+Mr. Micawber was uncommonly convivial.&nbsp; I never saw him such
+good company.&nbsp; He made his face shine with the punch, so
+that it looked as if it had been varnished all over.&nbsp; He got
+cheerfully sentimental about the town, and proposed success to
+it, observing that Mrs. Micawber and himself had been made
+extremely snug and comfortable there, and that he never should
+forget the agreeable hours they had passed in
+Canterbury.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Later on there is recorded in the Copperfield autobiography
+(chapter 42) how David, accompanied by his aunt and
+friends&mdash;Messrs. Dick and Traddles&mdash;sojourned for the
+night at this same hotel.&nbsp; They had arrived at Canterbury by
+the Dover Mail, as desired by Mr. Micawber, in readiness to
+assist the next day at the memorable &ldquo;Explosion&rdquo;
+which resulted in the final discomfiture of <i>Uriah Heep</i>,
+&ldquo;the Forger and the Cheat&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At the hotel where Mr. Micawber had
+requested us to await him, which we got into, with some trouble,
+in the middle of the night, I found a letter, importing that he
+would appear in the morning punctually at half-past nine.&nbsp;
+After which, we went shivering at that uncomfortable hour to our
+respective beds, through various close passages, which smelt as
+if they had been steeped for ages in a solution of soup and
+stables.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Following the course of St. Margaret Street northward, and
+passing (left) the old <span class="smcap">Church of St.
+Margaret</span>&mdash;recently restored by Sir Gilbert
+Scott&mdash;we soon arrive at the central main thoroughfare,
+which here divides the town, extending from St. Dunstan&rsquo;s
+Church (west) to the New Dover Road, leaving Canterbury on the
+east.</p>
+<p>Crossing the <span class="smcap">High Street</span>, and
+continuing northward through the narrow thoroughfare of <span
+class="smcap">Mercery Lane</span> (on the opposite
+side)&mdash;once the resort of the many pilgrims who came
+aforetime to worship at the shrine of <a name="page106"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 106</span>Thomas-&agrave;-Becket&mdash;we
+enter the precincts of the Cathedral by <span
+class="smcap">Christ Church Gate</span> (16th century).</p>
+<p>Turning to the right within the Close, and passing the
+secluded residences of several &ldquo;grave and reverend
+seigniors,&rdquo; we may find, on the farther side,
+<b>King&rsquo;s School</b>, an educational establishment of good
+repute and old foundation, pleasantly and quietly situated.&nbsp;
+The school is supervised by certain &ldquo;worthy and approved
+good masters,&rdquo; successors to the amiable <span
+class="smcap">Doctor Strong</span> and assistants, under whose
+careful tutorship David Copper-field was educated after his
+adoption by Miss Betsy Trotwood.&nbsp; In the commencement of
+chapter 16 of his autobiography, David thus describes the
+place:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Next morning, after breakfast, I entered on
+school life again.&nbsp; I went, accompanied by Mr. Wickfield, to
+the scene of my future studies&mdash;a grave building in a
+courtyard, with a learned air about it that seemed very well
+suited to the stray rooks and jackdaws who came down from the
+Cathedral towers to walk with a clerkly bearing on the
+grass-plot&mdash;and was introduced to my new master, Doctor
+Strong.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Doctor Strong&rsquo;s Private Residence</b>&mdash;at which
+&ldquo;some of the higher scholars boarded&rdquo;&mdash;is an
+antiquated house, situated at the corner of <span
+class="smcap">Lady&rsquo;s Green</span> (No. 1), at a short
+distance eastward.&nbsp; Here David was a frequent visitor,
+learning particulars of the Doctor&rsquo;s history, and becoming
+intimate with the various personages therewith connected.&nbsp;
+Pleasant reminiscences of the doings and sayings of <i>Mrs.
+Markleham</i>&mdash;&ldquo;the Old Soldier&rdquo; (so called by
+the boys &ldquo;on account of her generalship, and the skill with
+which she marshalled great forces of relations against the
+Doctor&rdquo;)&mdash;the tender associations which cluster round
+the story of <i>Annie</i>, the good doctor&rsquo;s true-hearted
+wife; with a casual recollection of the family
+cousin&mdash;<i>Mr. Jack Maldon</i>&mdash;(no better than he
+should be)&mdash;may combine to enhance the interest of a visit
+to this old-fashioned but comfortable home.</p>
+<p>Crossing the <span class="smcap">Lady&rsquo;s Green</span>
+towards the gate of the ancient <span class="smcap">Augustinian
+Monastery</span>, and proceeding onwards by <span
+class="smcap">Monastery Street</span>, we may find at the end and
+<a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>corner
+of the street, on the left hand, a noteworthy antique-looking
+house, partly incorporated with a second gate of the old
+Monastery, at present the residence of a gentleman of the medical
+profession.&nbsp; In bygone time this house was a point of
+considerable attraction to David during his later school-days at
+Canterbury, as being the home of &ldquo;<b>The Eldest Miss
+Larkins</b>,&rdquo; his second love.&nbsp; In chapter 18, as we
+may remember, is contained a very pleasant piece of natural
+sketching, entitled &ldquo;A Retrospect,&rdquo; comprising,
+<i>inter alia</i>, the story of his youthful passion.&nbsp; David
+says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I worship the eldest Miss Larkins.&nbsp;
+The eldest Miss Larkins is not a little girl.&nbsp; She is a
+tall, dark, black-eyed, fine figure of a woman.&nbsp; The eldest
+Miss Larkins is not a chicken, for the youngest Miss Larkins is
+not that, and the eldest must be three or four years older.&nbsp;
+Perhaps the eldest Miss Larkins may be about thirty.&nbsp; My
+passion for her is beyond all bounds. . . .&nbsp; Everything that
+belongs to her, or is connected with her, is precious to
+me.&nbsp; Mr. Larkins (a gruff old gentleman with a double chin,
+and one of his eyes immovable in his head) is fraught with
+interest to me. . . .&nbsp; I regularly take walks outside Mr.
+Larkins&rsquo;s house in the evening, though it cuts me to the
+heart to see the officers go in, or to hear them up in the
+drawing-room, where the eldest Miss Larkins plays the harp.&nbsp;
+I even walk, on two or three occasions, in a sickly spooney
+manner, round and round the house after the family are gone to
+bed, wondering which is the eldest Miss Larkins&rsquo;s chamber
+(and pitching, I dare say now, on Mr. Larkins&rsquo;s instead),
+wishing that a fire would burst out; that the assembled crowd
+would stand appalled; that I, dashing through them with a ladder,
+might rear it against her window, save her in my arms, go back
+for something she had left behind, and perish in the
+flames.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The <b>Drawing-Room</b> here mentioned is situated above the
+old Monastery Gate, between the two towers which stand on either
+side.&nbsp; We may recollect it was here that David, having
+received an invitation to a private ball given at the
+Larkins&rsquo;s, enjoyed his first dance with &ldquo;his dear
+divinity;&rdquo; afterwards being introduced to <i>Mr.
+Chestle</i>, a hop-grower from the neighbourhood of Ashford,
+&ldquo;a friend of the family,&rdquo; and&mdash;alas for
+David!&mdash;the future husband of the eldest Miss
+Larkins&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I waltz with the eldest Miss Larkins!&nbsp;
+I don&rsquo;t know where, among whom, or how long.&nbsp; I only
+know that I swim about in space with a <a
+name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>blue angel,
+in a state of blissful delirium. . . .&nbsp; I am lost in the
+recollection of this delicious interview, and the waltz, when she
+comes to me again, with a plain, elderly gentleman, who has been
+playing whist all night, upon her arm, and says, &lsquo;Oh, here
+is my bold friend!&nbsp; Mr. Chestle wants to know you, Mr.
+Copperfield.&rsquo;&nbsp; I feel at once that he is a friend of
+the family, and am much gratified. . . .&nbsp; I think I am in a
+happy dream.&nbsp; I waltz again with the eldest Miss
+Larkins.&nbsp; She says I waltz so well!&nbsp; I go home in a
+state of unspeakable bliss, and waltz in imagination, all night
+long, with my arm round the blue waist of my dear
+divinity.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Proceeding westward, we pass along the opposite roadway which
+faces the house above referred to, by Church Street St. Paul, and
+Burgate Street, to the Old Cathedral entrance.</p>
+<p>As the Rambler returns, again traversing Mercery Lane, there
+may be noted on the left&mdash;No. 14&mdash;a respectable
+<b>Butcher&rsquo;s Shop</b>, now in the keeping of Mr.
+Cornes.&nbsp; It is evident from its position, near Christ Church
+Gate, that this was the establishment where flourished, in days
+of yore, that obnoxious &ldquo;young butcher&rdquo; who was
+&ldquo;the terror of the youth of Canterbury,&rdquo; and the
+especial enemy of the pupils at King&rsquo;s School.&nbsp; In
+chapter 18&mdash;&ldquo;A Retrospect&rdquo;&mdash;Copperfield
+writes as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;There is a vague belief abroad that the
+beef suet with which he anoints his hair gives him unnatural
+strength, and that he is a match for a man.&nbsp; He is a
+broad-faced, bull-necked young butcher, with rough red cheeks, an
+ill-conditioned mind, and an injurious tongue.&nbsp; His main use
+of this tongue is to disparage Dr. Strong&rsquo;s young
+gentlemen.&nbsp; He says publicly that if they want anything
+he&rsquo;ll give it &rsquo;em.&nbsp; He names individuals among
+them (myself included) whom he could undertake to settle with one
+hand, and the other tied behind him.&nbsp; He waylays the smaller
+boys to punch their unprotected heads, and calls challenges after
+me in the open streets.&nbsp; For these sufficient reasons I
+resolve to fight the butcher.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It is a summer evening, down in a green hollow, at the
+corner of a wall.&nbsp; I meet the butcher by appointment.&nbsp;
+I am attended by a select body of our boys; the butcher by two
+other butchers, a young publican, and a sweep.&nbsp; The
+preliminaries are adjusted, and the butcher and myself stand face
+to face.&nbsp; In a moment the butcher lights ten thousand
+candles out of my left eyebrow.&nbsp; In another moment I
+don&rsquo;t know where the wall is, or where I am, or where
+anybody is.&nbsp; I hardly know which is myself and which the
+butcher; we are always in such a tangle and tussle, knocking
+about upon the trodden grass.&nbsp; Sometimes <a
+name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>I see the
+butcher, bloody but confident; sometimes I see nothing, but sit
+gasping on my second&rsquo;s knee; sometimes I go in at the
+butcher madly, and cut my knuckles open against his face, without
+appearing to discompose him at all.&nbsp; At last I awake, very
+queer about the head, as from a giddy sleep, and see the butcher
+walking off, congratulated by the two other butchers and the
+sweep and publican, and putting on his coat as he goes, from
+which I augur justly that the victory is his.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>But a few years afterwards David&mdash;&aelig;tat.
+17&mdash;becomes a better match for his opponent; and we read in
+the same chapter how&mdash;after his youthful disappointment
+<i>in re</i> &ldquo;the eldest Miss Larkins&rdquo;&mdash;having
+received new provocation from the butcher, he goes out to battle
+a second time, and gloriously defeats him.</p>
+<p>Turning again on the right into the main central thoroughfare,
+we may find, on the south side, the <b>Fleur de Lys
+Hotel</b>&mdash;34 High Street.&nbsp; A well-appointed and
+respectable establishment, at which, in the time of
+Copperfield&rsquo;s school-days, Mr. Dick was in the habit of
+stopping every alternate Wednesday, arriving from Dover by the
+stage-coach on his special fortnightly visits to David.&nbsp; We
+read that</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;These Wednesdays were the happiest days of
+Mr. Dick&rsquo;s life; they were far from being the least happy
+of mine.&nbsp; He soon became known to every boy in the school,
+and though he never took an active part in any game but
+kite-flying, was as deeply interested in all our sports as any
+one among us.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the opposite (north) side of the road stands the
+old-fashioned <b>George and Dragon Inn</b>&mdash;No. 18 High
+Street.&nbsp; In the days of Copperfield, the London and Dover
+Coach, passing <i>en route</i> through Canterbury, stopped here
+for change of horses.&nbsp; At this inn, therefore, was the
+&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Coach Office</span>,&rdquo; referred
+to in chapter 17 as being the place of arrival and departure of
+Mr. Dick, as aforesaid.&nbsp; This London Coach is also mentioned
+in the closing paragraph of the same chapter, David being on his
+way to offer Micawber a soothing word of comfort in reply to a
+dismal letter just received from that &ldquo;Beggared
+Outcast&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+110</span>&ldquo;Halfway there, I met the London coach with Mr.
+and Mrs. Micawber up behind; Mr. Micawber, the very picture of
+tranquil enjoyment, smiling at Mrs. Micawber&rsquo;s
+conversation, eating walnuts out of a paper bag, with a bottle
+sticking out of his breast pocket.&nbsp; As they did not see me,
+I thought it best, all things considered, not to see them.&nbsp;
+So, with a great weight taken off my mind, I turned into a
+by-street that was the nearest way to school, and felt, upon the
+whole, relieved that they were gone, though I still liked them
+very much, nevertheless.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Turning on the right (northward) from High Street, by a short
+intermediate road, the Rambler approaches <span
+class="smcap">Palace Street</span>, on the east side of which,
+near the western end of the Cathedral, stands the <b>Church of
+St. Alphege</b>.&nbsp; This edifice was casually referred to by
+the &ldquo;Old Soldier,&rdquo; <i>Mrs. Markleham</i>, as the
+church where the marriage of her daughter Annie with the worthy
+Dr. Strong was solemnised.&nbsp; The reference occurs, by way of
+interruption on the part of Mrs. M., during a very touching
+conference between the doctor and his wife, as related in
+&ldquo;Copperfield,&rdquo; chapter 45&mdash;&ldquo;Mr. Dick
+fulfils my aunt&rsquo;s predictions.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Passing onwards through <span class="smcap">St. Peter&rsquo;s
+Street</span> to <span class="smcap">Westgate Street</span>,
+crossing the western branch of the river, we come by a turning on
+the right to <span class="smcap">North Lane</span>, in which is
+situated the former <b>Residence of Uriah Heep</b>.&nbsp; It is a
+small two-storeyed house with plastered front, on the right side,
+near the entrance of the lane&mdash;No. 65; the
+&ldquo;&rsquo;umble dwelling&rdquo; to which David was introduced
+as described in chapter 17 of his history&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;We entered a low, old-fashioned room,
+walked straight into from the street, and found there Mrs. Heep,
+who was the dead image of Uriah, only short. . . .&nbsp; It was a
+perfectly decent room, half parlour and half kitchen, but not at
+all a snug room.&nbsp; The tea things were set upon the table,
+and the kettle was boiling on the hob.&nbsp; There was a chest of
+drawers with an escritoire top, for Uriah to read or write at of
+an evening; there was Uriah&rsquo;s blue bag lying down and
+vomiting papers; there was a company of Uriah&rsquo;s books
+commanded by Mr. Tidd; there was a corner cupboard, and there
+were the usual articles of furniture.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t
+remember that any individual object had a bare, pinched, spare
+look, but I do remember that the whole place had.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+111</span>Returning to the main street, we pass the ancient <span
+class="smcap">West Gate</span>&mdash;a fine specimen of medieval
+architecture, built between two massive round towers, with
+battlements and portcullis&mdash;and continue westward by <span
+class="smcap">St. Dunstan Street</span>.&nbsp; At a short
+distance onwards, on the south side of the thoroughfare, nearly
+facing the approach to the <span
+class="smcap">South-Eastern</span> Railway Station, there may be
+observed&mdash;No. 71&mdash;an old picturesque timbered house,
+with three projecting gables and antiquated windows.&nbsp; This
+was the <b>Residence of Mr. Wickfield</b>, as described by David,
+in chapter 15, when he was first taken to Canterbury by Miss
+Betsy Trotwood&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At length we stopped before a very old
+house, bulging out over the road; a house with long low lattice
+windows bulging out still farther, and beams with carved heads on
+the ends, bulging out too, so that I fancied the whole house was
+leaning forward, trying to see who was passing on the narrow
+pavement below.&nbsp; It was quite spotless in its
+cleanliness.&nbsp; The old-fashioned brass knocker on the low
+arched door, ornamented with carved garlands of fruit and
+flowers, twinkled like a star; the two stone steps descending to
+the door were as white as if they had been covered with fair
+linen; and all the angles and corners and carvings and mouldings,
+and quaint little panes of glass, and quainter little windows,
+though as old as the hills, were as pure as any snow that ever
+fell upon the hills.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This house does not answer in every respect to the full
+description as contained in the book.&nbsp; The &ldquo;little
+round tower that formed one side of the
+house&rdquo;&mdash;containing Uriah Heep&rsquo;s circular
+office&mdash;being wanting to complete; but we may readily
+imagine that this existed, some sixty years&rsquo; since, at the
+western side, in the space now occupied by some gates and a roof
+of more modern erection.&nbsp; This residence must certainly be
+located in the <i>main London road</i>, as David&mdash;referring,
+at the close of chapter 15, as above, to his recent pedestrian
+journey from the Metropolis to Dover&mdash;speaks of his
+&ldquo;coming through that old city and passing that very house
+he lived in, without knowing it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>[Some friends resident at Canterbury have been disposed to
+locate Mr. Wickfield&rsquo;s house at No. 15 <span
+class="smcap">Burgate Street</span>, now in occupation of the
+legal firm of Messrs. <a name="page112"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 112</span>Fielding and Plummer (names,
+by-the-bye, which are used by Dickens in &ldquo;The Cricket on
+the Hearth&rdquo;); but neither the house nor its position will
+in any way correspond with Copperfield&rsquo;s description of the
+same.]</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p112.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Home of Agnes"
+title=
+"The Home of Agnes"
+src="images/p112.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Here then was the Home of <i>Agnes</i>&mdash;that finest
+delineation of feminine portraiture ever conceived by our
+author&mdash;the central figure of the many pure and beautiful
+associations which entwine themselves with the chief interests of
+this most charming tale.&nbsp; In view of the personal history
+and character of its heroine, we may well understand
+Thackeray&rsquo;s eulogium of his contemporary, as providing for
+the delectation of his daughters &ldquo;the pure pages of David
+Copperfield;&rdquo; and we can as readily appreciate the
+preference of Charles Dickens himself, when he says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Of all my books I like this the best.&nbsp;
+It will be easily believed that I am a fond parent to every child
+of my fancy, and that no one can ever love that family as dearly
+as I love them.&nbsp; But, like many fond parents, I have, in my
+heart of hearts, a favourite child, and his name is David
+Copperfield.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Canterbury</span> by the direct
+line of the <span class="smcap">London</span>, <span
+class="smcap">Chatham And Dover Railway</span>, we are carried
+onward through a pleasant country towards the south-east coast;
+the white roads of the district indicating the abundant
+chalkiness of the soil.&nbsp; In Copperfield&rsquo;s 13th
+chapter, narrating the circumstances of his long tramp to Dover,
+he says, &ldquo;From head to foot I was powdered almost as white
+with chalk and dust as if I had come out of a
+lime-kiln.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Passing three minor stations, the train arrives at <span
+class="smcap">Dover Priory</span>&mdash;about which more
+anon&mdash;whence it proceeds through an intervening tunnel to
+the town station, at the old port of</p>
+<h3>DOVER.</h3>
+<p>The town is of especial interest to readers of &ldquo;David
+Copperfield,&rdquo; as containing on its suburban heights the
+cottage residence of Miss Trotwood and Mr. Dick.</p>
+<p>Proceeding eastward from the station, a short distance <a
+name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>along <span
+class="smcap">Commercial Quay</span>; turning left, then right;
+and walking onwards <i>vi&acirc;</i> <span
+class="smcap">Snargate</span>, <span class="smcap">Bench</span>
+and <span class="smcap">King Streets</span>, the Rambler may
+reach the <b>Market Place</b>, centrally situated in the lower
+part of the town, and may recall the circumstance of poor David
+resting near at hand, on his arrival&mdash;a juvenile stranger in
+a strange land&mdash;after a morning&rsquo;s fruitless inquiry as
+to the whereabouts of his aunt.&nbsp; We read (in chapter 13) as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I inquired about my aunt among the boatmen
+first, and received various answers.&nbsp; One said she lived in
+the South Foreland light, and had singed her whiskers by doing
+so; another, that she was made fast to the great buoy outside the
+harbour, and could be only visited at half-tide; a third, that
+she was locked up in Maidstone Jail for child stealing; a fourth,
+that she was seen to mount a broom in the last high wind and make
+direct for Calais.&nbsp; The fly-drivers among whom I inquired
+were equally jocose and equally disrespectful; and the
+shopkeepers, not liking my appearance, generally replied without
+hearing what I had to say, that they had got nothing for
+me.&nbsp; I felt more miserable and destitute than I had done at
+any period of my running away.&nbsp; My money was all gone, I had
+nothing left to dispose of; I was hungry, thirsty, and worn out,
+and seemed as distant from my end as if I had remained in
+London.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>At the junction of <span class="smcap">Church Street</span>
+and <span class="smcap">Castle Street</span>, both leading to and
+from the Market Place&mdash;at the northeast angle&mdash;there
+may be noted the <b>Street Corner</b> at which David sat down,
+considering the position of affairs, and where he received the
+first practical intimation for the proper direction of his
+search:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The morning had worn away in these
+inquiries, and I was sitting on the step of an empty shop at a
+street corner, near the Market-place, deliberating upon wandering
+towards those other places which had been mentioned, when a
+fly-driver, coming by with his carriage, dropped a
+horsecloth.&nbsp; Something good-natured in the man&rsquo;s face,
+as I handed it up, encouraged me to ask him if he could tell me
+where Miss Trotwood lived. . . .&nbsp; &lsquo;I tell you
+what,&rsquo; said he.&nbsp; &lsquo;If you go up there,&rsquo;
+pointing with his whip towards the heights, &lsquo;and keep right
+on till you come to some houses facing the sea, I think
+you&rsquo;ll hear of her.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Leaving the Market Place from its north-west corner, and <a
+name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>keeping
+somewhat to the left, the Rambler may ascend by <span
+class="smcap">Cannon</span> and <span class="smcap">Biggin
+Streets</span>, as indicated by the coachman&rsquo;s whip, to the
+heights of <b>Priory Hill</b>, on which elevation, in the
+neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">St. Martin&rsquo;s
+Priory</span> and the <span class="smcap">Priory Farm</span>,
+there may be found several semi-detached residences pleasantly
+overlooking the &ldquo;silver streak&rdquo; and the intervening
+town below.&nbsp; Here, in an eligible position, there may be
+seen <b>Stanley Mount</b>, a villa residence of two storeys, with
+bow windows and contiguous lawn.&nbsp; This house now replaces an
+older one, which aforetime was the cottage at which the worthy
+Miss Trotwood lived; the miniature lawn in front being the
+&ldquo;patch of green&rdquo; over which that amiable lady
+asserted private right of way; persistently maintaining it
+against all comers in general, and the Dover donkey boys in
+particular&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The one great outrage of her life,
+demanding to be constantly avenged, was the passage of a donkey
+over that immaculate spot.&nbsp; In whatever occupation she was
+engaged, however interesting to her the conversation in which she
+was taking part, a donkey turned the current of her ideas in a
+moment, and she was upon him straight.&nbsp; Jugs of water and
+watering-pots were kept in secret places, ready to be discharged
+on the offending boys, sticks were laid in ambush behind the
+door, sallies were made at all hours, and incessant war
+prevailed.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Midway between Railway Stations and Quay, there may be noted
+<b>The King&rsquo;s Head Hotel</b>, as being the old Coaching
+House at which the London Mail terminated its journey, and
+referred to in &ldquo;The Tale of Two Cities&rdquo; by the name
+of &ldquo;The Royal George.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here may be recalled the
+interview related in chapter 4, which took place at this hotel
+between <i>Mr. Lorry</i> and <i>Miss Manette</i>, and at which
+the reader is first introduced to the eccentric <i>Miss
+Pross</i>&mdash;&ldquo;dressed in some extraordinary
+tight-fitting fashion&rdquo;; wearing on &ldquo;her head a most
+wonderful bonnet, like a Grenadier measure (and a good measure
+too) or a great Stilton cheese.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Returning to London by South-Eastern Rail, the <a
+name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>Rambler
+will pass, about half-way on the road, the picturesque village of
+<b>Staplehurst</b>.&nbsp; Near this station it may be remembered
+that, on June 9th, 1865, a sad disaster occurred to the train in
+which Mr. Dickens was a traveller.&nbsp; The <i>Postscript</i> to
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend&rdquo; contains the following
+reference:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mr. and Mrs. Boffin (in their manuscript
+dress) were on the South-Eastern Railway with me, in a terribly
+destructive accident.&nbsp; When I had done what I could to help
+others, I climbed back into my carriage&mdash;nearly turned over
+a viaduct, and caught aslant upon the turn&mdash;to extricate the
+worthy couple.&nbsp; They were very much soiled, but otherwise
+unhurt. . . .&nbsp; I remember with devout thankfulness that I
+can never be much nearer parting company with my readers for ever
+than I was then, until there shall be written against my life the
+two words with which I have this day closed this book&mdash;The
+End.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h2><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+116</span>RAMBLE VIII<br />
+<i>Excursion to Henley-on-Thames</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Route by Great Western Railway
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Maidenhead and Twyford to Henley&mdash;The Red
+Lion Inn, place of accommodation for Mr. Eugene
+Wrayburn&mdash;Marriage of Mr. Wrayburn and Lizzie
+Hexam&mdash;The Anchor Inn, the &ldquo;little inn&rdquo; at which
+Bella Wilfer first visited Lizzie Hexam&mdash;Henley Railway
+Station&mdash;The Tow Path, scene of the interview between Lizzie
+and Eugene&mdash;Marsh Mill, at which Lizzie was
+employed&mdash;Neighbourhood where Betty Higden
+died&mdash;Shiplake Churchyard, where Betty was
+buried&mdash;&ldquo;A cry for help&rdquo;&mdash;West bank of
+Thames, Henley Bridge and Poplar Point, the neighbourhood where
+occurred Bradley Headstone&rsquo;s attack on Eugene
+Wrayburn&mdash;Lizzie&rsquo;s walk by Marsh Lock to the Eastern
+Tow Path beyond Henley Bridge&mdash;Her rescue of
+Eugene&mdash;Henley <i>vi&acirc;</i> Aston and Medmenham to
+Hurley Lock, &ldquo;Plashwater Weir Mill&rdquo; Lock, Rogue
+Riderhood, Deputy Lockkeeper&mdash;Final scene of the
+Tragedy&mdash;Churchyard of Stoke Pogis&mdash;Mr.
+Micawber&rsquo;s Quotation&mdash;The Homeward Journey&mdash;John
+Harmon&rsquo;s Reflections.</p>
+<p>A very delightful country excursion may be made for visiting
+the neighbourhood of <b>Henley-on-Thames</b>, of especial
+interest to the readers of &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>It may be remembered that <i>Lizzie Hexam</i>, desirous of
+avoiding the attentions of her (then) unworthy lover, <i>Mr.
+Eugene Wrayburn</i>, left London secretly, with the assistance of
+Riah&mdash;representative of the honourable firm of Messrs.
+Pubsey and Co.; that, by his recommendation, she obtained a
+situation at a <span class="smcap">Paper Mill</span> (then under
+Jewish management), at some distance from the Metropolis, and
+remained for a time undisturbed in her country employment; that,
+thereafter, <i>Eugene Wrayburn</i> obtained her address by
+bribing the drunken father of &ldquo;<i>Jenny Wren</i>,&rdquo; <a
+name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>the
+dolls&rsquo; dressmaker, and so followed Lizzie to her retreat,
+being in his turn watched and followed by the passionate and
+jealous schoolmaster, <i>Bradley Headstone</i>, who attempted his
+life on the river bank; that, near at hand, was the <span
+class="smcap">Angler&rsquo;s Inn</span>, to which
+Eugene&mdash;nearly dead&mdash;was carried by the heroic and
+devoted Lizzie, who saved him from a watery grave, and where
+&ldquo;effect was given to the dolls&rsquo; dressmaker&rsquo;s
+discovery,&rdquo; one night, some weeks later, by their romantic
+marriage, while it was yet doubtful whether the bridegroom would
+survive; that the death of <i>Betty Higden</i> occurred
+&ldquo;<span class="smcap">On the Borders of
+Oxfordshire</span>,&rdquo; near the mill at which <i>Lizzie
+Hexam</i> was engaged, Lizzie herself attending the last moments
+of the dying woman, and accepting her last request; that in
+accordance with such request poor Betty was decently interred in
+a contiguous churchyard, the charges being defrayed by her own
+hard earnings, specially saved for the purpose; and that, on this
+occasion, the first meeting of Lizzie and <i>Miss Bella
+Wilfer</i> took place, when a very interesting and touching
+interview ensued, which greatly assisted Bella in confirmation of
+a brave and righteous decision <i>in re</i> money <i>versus</i>
+love.&nbsp; Also that, at no great distance from this locality,
+was situated &ldquo;<span class="smcap">Plashwater Weir Mill
+Lock</span>,&rdquo; where <i>Rogue Riderhood</i> did duty as
+deputy lock-keeper, and where, at the last, he and <i>Bradley
+Headstone</i> were drowned.</p>
+<p>These localities are in the neighbourhood of <span
+class="smcap">Henley</span>, and may be readily verified by the
+intelligent Rambler, adopting the excursion by land and water, as
+subjoined.</p>
+<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Paddington Terminus</span> of the
+Great Western Railway, we pass <span class="smcap">Westbourne
+Park Junction</span>, and the well-arranged grounds of <i>Kensal
+Green Cemetery</i> (in which repose the mortal remains of Leigh
+Hunt, Sidney Smith, John Leech, and Thackeray) on the right,
+travelling westward by the suburban stations of <i>Acton</i>,
+<i>Ealing</i>, and <i>Castle Hill</i>, and cross the Wharncliffe
+Viaduct to <span class="smcap">Hanwell</span>.</p>
+<p>To the left may be seen the handsome building of the <span
+class="smcap">Middlesex Lunatic Asylum</span>. We next arrive at
+<a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span><span
+class="smcap">Southall</span>, and afterwards cross the Grand
+Junction Canal to <span class="smcap">Hayes</span> and <span
+class="smcap">West Drayton</span>.&nbsp; Our train now passes
+from Middlesex to Buckinghamshire, and steams onwards in the
+neighbourhood of <i>Langley Park</i>&mdash;seen on the
+right.&nbsp; The tower of Langley Church may be observed on the
+left, rising from the trees, as we speed forward to <span
+class="smcap">Slough</span>, where we obtain a distant glimpse of
+the Royal Castle of Windsor, two miles southward.</p>
+<p>Resuming the journey we come, in four miles&rsquo; run, to the
+pleasant village of <span class="smcap">Taplow</span>, on the
+borders of the Thames (here dividing the counties of
+Buckinghamshire and Berkshire), and within easy distance of
+<i>Burnham Beeches</i>, a favourite picnic resort.&nbsp; The
+train now crosses the river, next arriving at <span
+class="smcap">Maidenhead</span>, a market town on the
+Thames.&nbsp; On the right, observation may be taken of
+Maidenhead Bridge, a noble erection of thirteen arches.&nbsp;
+Thereafter we soon arrive at <span class="smcap">Twyford
+Junction</span>, where we change (unless seated in a special
+through carriage) for <b>Henley</b>, situated four miles
+northward, and served by a branch line.&nbsp; The town itself is
+very pleasantly situated on the Thames, with an old church and
+handsome bridge, but is of special interest to Dickensian
+students as containing the <span class="smcap">Inn</span> at
+which <i>Mr. Eugene Wrayburn</i> found accommodation on the
+occasion of his journey in pursuit of Lizzie Hexam.&nbsp; See
+&ldquo;Our Mutual Friend,&rdquo; book 3, chapter 1, in which
+Bradley Headstone, returning to Plashwater Weir, is described as
+reporting the circumstance to the deputy lock-keeper&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Lock ho!&nbsp; Lock.&rsquo;&nbsp; It
+was a light night, and a barge coming down summoned him
+(Riderhood) out of a long doze.&nbsp; In due course he had let
+the barge through and was alone again, looking to the closing of
+his gates, when Bradley Headstone appeared before him, standing
+on the brink of the Lock.&nbsp; &lsquo;Halloa,&rsquo; said
+Riderhood.&nbsp; &lsquo;Back a&rsquo;ready,
+T&rsquo;otherest?&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;He has put up for the night
+at an Angler&rsquo;s Inn,&rsquo; was the fatigued and hoarse
+reply.&nbsp; &lsquo;He goes on, up the river, at six in the
+morning.&nbsp; I have come back for a couple of hours&rsquo;
+rest.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Red Lion Inn</b> thus referred to is situated north of
+Henley Bridge, on the west bank of the river, and is a <a
+name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>favourite
+resort for disciples of Izaak Walton and boating men in
+general.&nbsp; Here it was that Eugene Wrayburn&mdash;after the
+murderous attack by the schoolmaster&mdash;was brought almost
+lifeless by Lizzie, when rescued by her from the river, as
+narrated in chapter 6&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;She ran the boat ashore, went into the
+water, released him from the line, and by main strength lifted
+him in her arms and laid him in the bottom of the boat.&nbsp; He
+had fearful wounds upon him, and she bound them up with her dress
+torn into strips.&nbsp; Else, supposing him to be still alive,
+she foresaw that he must bleed to death before he could be landed
+at his inn, which was the nearest place for succour. . . .&nbsp;
+She rowed hard&mdash;rowed desperately, but never
+wildly&mdash;and seldom removed her eyes from him in the bottom
+of the boat.&nbsp; She had so laid him there as that she might
+see his disfigured face; it was so much disfigured that his
+mother might have covered it, but it was above and beyond
+disfigurement in her eyes.&nbsp; The boat touched the edge of inn
+lawn, sloping gently to the water.&nbsp; There were lights in the
+windows, but there chanced to be no one out of doors.&nbsp; She
+made the boat fast, and again by main strength took him up, and
+never laid him down until she laid him down in the
+house.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The landing-place and patch of inn lawn, above indicated, may
+now be verified as belonging to the &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">Red Lion</span>&rdquo; at Henley aforesaid.&nbsp;
+The lawn is a favourite standpoint for spectators interested in
+the <span class="smcap">Henley Royal Regatta</span>, which takes
+place every year usually about the beginning of July.</p>
+<p><b>The marriage of Eugene and Lizzie</b> took place at this
+same inn some weeks later, while it was yet uncertain that Eugene
+would recover; the <i>Rev. Frank Milvey</i> officiating at the
+bedside, <i>Bella</i> and her husband, <i>Mr. Lightwood</i>,
+<i>Mrs. Milvey</i>, and <i>Jenny Wren</i> being duly in
+attendance&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They all stood round the bed, and Mr.
+Milvey, opening his book, began the service, so rarely associated
+with the shadow of death; so inseparable in the mind from a flush
+of life and gaiety and health and hope and joy.&nbsp; Bella
+thought how different from her own sunny little wedding, and
+wept.&nbsp; Mrs. Milvey overflowed with pity, and wept too.&nbsp;
+The dolls&rsquo; dressmaker, with her hands before her face, wept
+in her golden bower.&nbsp; Reading in a low, clear voice, and
+bending over Eugene, who kept his eyes upon him, Mr. Milvey did
+his office with suitable simplicity.&nbsp; As the bridegroom
+could not move his hand, they touched his fingers with the ring,
+and so put it on the bride.&nbsp; When <a
+name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>the two
+plighted their troth, she laid her hand on his, and kept it
+there.&nbsp; When the ceremony was done, and all the rest
+departed from the room, she drew her arm under his head, and laid
+her own head down on the pillow by his side.&nbsp; &lsquo;Undraw
+the curtains, my dear girl,&rsquo; said Eugene, after a while,
+&lsquo;and let us see our wedding-day.&rsquo;&nbsp; The sun was
+rising, and his first rays struck into the room, as she came back
+and put her lips to his.&nbsp; &lsquo;I bless the day!&rsquo;
+said Eugene.&nbsp; &lsquo;I bless the day!&rsquo; said
+Lizzie.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>[The clergyman and friends who assisted on this interesting
+occasion as above, left London from <b>Waterloo
+Station</b>.&nbsp; We may remember that Mrs. Rokesmith, escorted
+by Mr. Lightwood, came into town by rail from Greenwich.&nbsp;
+Thus they would change trains at <span class="smcap">Waterloo
+Junction</span>, and adopt the <i>South-Western Route</i> as
+being the more convenient, travelling to Reading, and driving
+thence to Henley.&nbsp; It was at this terminus that Bradley
+Headstone first heard (from Mr. Milvey) of the intended wedding,
+and was so seriously upset by the news, that an attack of
+epilepsy ensued in consequence.&nbsp; We thus read in chapter 11,
+book 4, with reference to Bella and her escort:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;From Greenwich they started directly for
+London, and in London they waited at a railway station until such
+time as the Rev. Frank Milvey, and Margaretta, his wife, with
+whom Mortimer Lightwood had been already in conference, should
+come and join them. . . .&nbsp; Then the train rattled among the
+house-tops, and among the ragged sides of houses, torn down to
+make way for it, over the swarming streets, and under the
+fruitful earth, until it shot across the river. . . .&nbsp; A
+carriage ride succeeded near the solemn river. . . .&nbsp; They
+drew near the chamber where Eugene lay.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This is certainly descriptive of the <span
+class="smcap">South-Western Railway</span>, and is <i>not</i>
+applicable to the Great Western Route.]</p>
+<p>For full particulars the reader is referred to chapter 11,
+book 4.&nbsp; On the occasion of Bella Wilfer&rsquo;s <span
+class="smcap">First Visit</span> to Henley, and the introduction
+of the two girls to each other, as narrated in chapter 9, book 3
+(in association with the burial of old Betty Higden), mention is
+made of &ldquo;<i>the little inn</i>,&rdquo; at which
+Bella&rsquo;s friends were then accommodated.&nbsp; This was
+<i>not</i> the &ldquo;Red Lion,&rdquo; but, in all probability,
+was <a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+121</span><b>The Anchor Inn</b>, a small, but very comfortable
+hostelry in <i>Friday Street</i>, near the river.&nbsp; Visitors
+desiring to combine economy with homeliness, are recommended to
+follow Miss Wilfer&rsquo;s lead in this regard, and commit
+themselves to the hospitable care of the present landlord.</p>
+<p><b>The Railway Station</b> at Henley is referred to in the
+last-named chapter as being near at hand, when &ldquo;the Rev.
+Frank and Mrs. Frank, and Sloppy, and Bella and the Secretary set
+out to walk to it;&rdquo; the two last dropping behind, for a
+little confidential conversation on the road.&nbsp; We read
+that</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The railway, at this point knowingly
+shutting a green eye and opening a red one, they had to run for
+it.&nbsp; As Bella could not run easily so wrapped up, the
+Secretary had to help her.&nbsp; When she took her opposite place
+in the carriage corner, the brightness in her face was so
+charming to behold, that on her exclaiming, &lsquo;What beautiful
+stars and what a glorious night!&rsquo; the Secretary said,
+&lsquo;Yes,&rsquo; but seemed to prefer to see the night and the
+stars in the light of her lovely little countenance, to looking
+out of window.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>A short walk of five minutes from the station, southward by
+the riverside (west bank), will bring the Rambler to <b>The Tow
+Path</b>, the scene of that memorable interview between Lizzie
+and Eugene, recorded in chapter 6, book 4, as taking place
+previous to the catastrophe by which Wrayburn nearly lost his
+life.&nbsp; The path leads to <b>Marsh Mill</b>, about half a
+mile from Henley; a large and important paper mill, now in the
+occupation of Mr. Wells, situated near the weir, with its long
+wooden bridge leading to the lock.&nbsp; This was the mill at
+which Lizzie Hexam, secretly leaving London, found refuge and
+occupation, on the recommendation of her old friend Mr. Riah, her
+worthy employers being a firm of Hebrew nationality.&nbsp; We
+first read of this mill in connection with the closing scenes of
+<i>Betty Higden&rsquo;s</i> history, as narrated in chapter 8,
+book 3, and headed &ldquo;The end of a long
+journey&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;There now arose in the darkness a great
+building full of lighted windows.&nbsp; Smoke was issuing from a
+high chimney in the rear of it, and there was the sound of a
+water-wheel at the side.&nbsp; Between her <a
+name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>and the
+building lay a piece of water, in which the lighted windows were
+reflected, and on its nearest margin was a plantation of
+trees.&nbsp; &lsquo;I humbly thank the Power and the
+Glory,&rsquo; said Betty Higden, holding up her withered hands,
+&lsquo;that I have come to my journey&rsquo;s
+end!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Death of Betty</b> here occurred; as, sinking on the
+ground, and supporting herself against a tree &ldquo;whence she
+could see, beyond some intervening trees and branches, the
+lighted windows,&rdquo; her strength gave way&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;I am safe here,&rsquo; was her last
+benumbed thought.&nbsp; &lsquo;When I am found dead at the foot
+of the Cross, it will be by some of my own sort; some of the
+working people who work among the lights yonder.&nbsp; I cannot
+see the lighted windows now, but they are there.&nbsp; I am
+thankful for all!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We have the satisfaction of reading that the poor
+woman&rsquo;s hopes were realised, for <i>Lizzie Hexam</i>
+returning from the mill, found her lying among the trees as
+described, and tended her at the last, with helpful and loving
+hands&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A look of thankfulness and triumph lights
+the worn old face.&nbsp; The eyes, which have been darkly fixed
+upon the sky, turn with meaning in them towards the compassionate
+face from which the tears are dropping, and a smile is on the
+aged lips as they ask, &lsquo;What is your name, my
+dear?&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;My name is Lizzie Hexam.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+&lsquo;I must be sore disfigured.&nbsp; Are you afraid to kiss
+me?&rsquo;&nbsp; The answer is, the ready pressure of her lips
+upon the cold but smiling mouth.&nbsp; &lsquo;Bless ye!&nbsp; Now
+lift me, my love.&rsquo;&nbsp; Lizzie Hexam very softly raised
+the weather-stained grey head, and lifted her as high as
+Heaven.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Burial</b>, as detailed in the following chapter, must
+have taken place in the little churchyard of the contiguous
+village of <span class="smcap">Shiplake</span> (about
+three-quarters of a mile distant), the service being conducted by
+the Rev. Frank Milvey, and attended by the Secretary and poor
+<i>Sloppy</i> as mourners.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<b>A cry for help</b>.&rdquo;&nbsp; It may be
+interesting to indicate the local sequence of events on that
+memorable Saturday evening, when Bradley Headstone, impelled by
+wild resentment and furious jealousy, did his best to murder his
+more favoured rival, as described in chapter 6, book 4, under the
+above heading.&nbsp; It will be remembered that, on the evening
+in question, <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+123</span><b>Eugene Wrayburn</b> having forced an appointment
+with Lizzie Hexam, met her on the path by the river, when a very
+affecting farewell interview ensued.&nbsp; This interview
+occurring on the towpath&mdash;tolerably secluded at and after
+twilight&mdash;about halfway between Henley and Marsh (see
+<i>Marcus Stone&rsquo;s</i> Illustration, &ldquo;The Parting by
+the River&rdquo;), Eugene strolled slowly towards his inn, while
+Lizzie walked sorrowfully, as a matter of course, in the opposite
+direction.&nbsp; We read that, passing Bradley Headstone
+(disguised as a bargeman)&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Eugene Wrayburn went the opposite way, with
+his hands behind him, and his purpose in his thoughts.&nbsp; He
+passed the sheep, and passed the gate, and came within hearing of
+the village sounds, and came to the bridge.&nbsp; The inn where
+he stayed, like the village and the mill, was not across the
+river, but on that side of the stream on which he walked . . .
+feeling out of humour for noise or company, he crossed the
+bridge, and sauntered on: looking up at the stars as they seemed
+one by one to be kindled in the sky, and looking down at the
+river as the same stars seemed to be kindled deep in the
+water.&nbsp; A landing-place overshadowed by a willow, and a
+pleasant boat lying moored there among some stakes, caught his
+eye as he passed along.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Thus it will be seen how Eugene, following the <i>west
+bank</i> of the Thames to Henley, and thereafter crossing
+<b>Henley Bridge</b>, pursued the course of his meditations past
+the landing-place on the opposite side, walking onwards by the
+towpath thence continued, in the direction of <span
+class="smcap">Poplar Point</span>.</p>
+<p><b>The Murderous Attack</b> upon him by Headstone, in the
+darkening shades of nightfall, must have here occurred, not far
+from the bridge, and opposite to the town, Wrayburn being thrown
+into the river by his assailant, and so left for dead.</p>
+<p><b>Lizzie Hexam</b>, endeavouring to regain composure, went
+towards Marsh, and must have crossed by <b>The Lock Gates</b> to
+the main road beyond, turning in the direction of Henley.&nbsp;
+She thereafter walked slowly onwards in the neighbourhood of the
+bridge at its eastern side, and thus unconsciously came again
+near to, and following behind, her lover, on the</p>
+<p><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+124</span><b>Eastern Tow Path</b> beyond the bridge, as above
+mentioned.&nbsp; Hereabouts, hearing &ldquo;the sound of blows, a
+faint groan, and a fall into the river,&rdquo; she ran towards
+the spot from which the sounds had come&mdash;not far distant, on
+the riverside path, northward from the bridge.&nbsp; We are all
+familiar with the story of Lizzie&rsquo;s heroic rescue of Eugene
+from the river.&nbsp; Finding a boat on the north side of <span
+class="smcap">Henley Bridge</span>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;She passed the scene of the
+struggle&mdash;yonder it was&mdash;on her left, well over the
+boat&rsquo;s stern&mdash;she passed on her right the end of the
+village street (New Street) . . . looking as the boat drove,
+everywhere, everywhere for the floating face.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Finding and recovering the body, she rowed &ldquo;back against
+the stream,&rdquo; landing at the lawn of the <span
+class="smcap">Red Lion Inn</span> as previously described.</p>
+<p>The Rambler may now take a short trip by boat down the river
+six miles from Henley, for visiting <span class="smcap">The
+Lock</span> where <i>Rogue Riderhood</i> acted for a time, as
+deputy superintendent.</p>
+<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Henley</span>, we may note, on the
+left, the mansion of <i>Fawley Court</i>, beyond which, passing
+<span class="smcap">Regatta Island</span>, we arrive at <span
+class="smcap">Greenlands</span>, in the occupation of the Right
+Hon. W. H. Smith (not unknown in political and literary
+circles).&nbsp; The house is pleasantly situated at the bend of
+the river.&nbsp; We next arrive at <i>Hambledon Lock</i>, two
+miles from Henley; thereafter reaching <span
+class="smcap">Aston</span>, as we proceed down the stream to
+<span class="smcap">Medmenham</span>, with its picturesque Abbey,
+founded in the reign of King John, standing on the north
+bank.&nbsp; Below Medmenham is <b>Hurley Lock</b>, which is our
+present destination.&nbsp; It is contiguous to <span
+class="smcap">New Lock Weir</span>, and to the village of <span
+class="smcap">Hurley</span>, situated on the right bank of the
+river.&nbsp; This is known to readers of &ldquo;Our Mutual
+Friend&rdquo; as <b>Plashwater Weir Mill Lock</b>, at whose gates
+<i>Riderhood</i>&mdash;whilom a &ldquo;waterside
+character,&rdquo; the partner of <i>Gaffer
+Hexam</i>&mdash;officiated as deputy lock-keeper.&nbsp; We are
+introduced to him as not very wide-awake in this capacity, in
+chapter 1, book 4&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+125</span>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Plashwater Weir Mill
+Lock</span> looked tranquil and pretty on an evening in the
+summer-time.&nbsp; A soft air stirred the leaves of the fresh
+green trees, and passed like a smooth shadow over the river, and
+like a smoother shadow over the yielding grass.&nbsp; The voice
+of the falling water, like the voices of the sea and the wind,
+was an outer memory to a contemplative listener; but not
+particularly so to Mr. Riderhood, who sat on one of the blunt
+wooden levers of his lock-gates, dozing.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>To this locality came Bradley Headstone, who, for sinister
+reasons of his own, cultivated Riderhood&rsquo;s acquaintance,
+making <b>The Lock House</b> a convenient place of call, as he
+pursued Eugene Wrayburn in his quest, full details of which may
+be found in chapters 1 and 7, book 6.&nbsp; Here also was enacted
+the final scene of the tragedy, as narrated in chapter 15, book
+4, when Bradley Headstone drowned himself and Riderhood in the
+Lock&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Bradley had caught him round the
+body.&nbsp; He seemed to be girdled with an iron ring.&nbsp; They
+were on the brink of the Lock, about midway between the two sets
+of gates. . . .&nbsp; &lsquo;Let go!&rsquo; said Riderhood.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Stop!&nbsp; What are you trying at?&nbsp; You can&rsquo;t
+drown me.&nbsp; Ain&rsquo;t I told you that the man as has come
+through drowning can never be drowned?&nbsp; I can&rsquo;t be
+drowned.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;I can be!&rsquo; returned Bradley,
+in a desperate, clenched voice.&nbsp; &lsquo;I am resolved to
+be.&nbsp; I&rsquo;ll hold you living, and I&rsquo;ll hold you
+dead.&nbsp; Come down!&rsquo;&nbsp; Riderhood went over into the
+smooth pit, backward, and Bradley Headstone upon him.&nbsp; When
+the two were found, lying under the ooze and scum behind one of
+the rotting gates, Riderhood&rsquo;s hold had relaxed, probably
+in falling, and his eyes were staring upward.&nbsp; But he was
+girdled still with Bradley&rsquo;s iron ring, and the rivets of
+the iron ring held tight.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>By road, <span class="smcap">Hurley Lock</span> is but four
+miles distant from Henley; a pedestrian, therefore, could make an
+easy short cut, as against a rower up the stream; hence the
+assurance given by the deputy lock-keeper to his impatient
+visitor (see book 4, chapter 1):&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Ha, ha!&nbsp; Don&rsquo;t be afeerd,
+T&rsquo;otherest,&rsquo; said Riderhood.&nbsp; &lsquo;The
+T&rsquo;other&rsquo;s got to make way agin the stream, and he
+takes it easy.&nbsp; You can soon come up with him.&nbsp; But
+wot&rsquo;s the good of saying that to you!&nbsp; You know how
+fur you could have outwalked him betwixt <a
+name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>anywheres
+about where he lost the tide&mdash;say Richmond&mdash;and this,
+if you had had a mind to it.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Travelling homeward on the return to London, it may be
+desirable to break the journey at <span
+class="smcap">Slough</span>&mdash;eighteen miles from
+Paddington&mdash;whence may be conveniently visited the rustic
+village and cemetery of <b>Stoke Pogis</b>, about a mile and a
+half northward from the station.&nbsp; The latter contains the
+tomb of the poet Gray, and is the scene of his famous
+&ldquo;Elegy in a Country Churchyard.&rdquo;&nbsp; It may be
+remembered that from this well-known poem <b>Mr. Micawber&rsquo;s
+Quotation</b> was taken, as an appropriate conclusion to one of
+his many friendly but grandiloquent epistles, confirming an
+important appointment.&nbsp; In &ldquo;David Copperfield,&rdquo;
+at the end of chapter 49, we read of Micawber&rsquo;s expressed
+determination to unmask his &ldquo;foxey&rdquo; employer, and to
+crush &ldquo;to undiscoverable atoms that transcendent and
+immortal hypocrite and perjurer, Heep&rdquo;; and we may recall
+his &ldquo;most secret and confidential letter,&rdquo; soon
+afterwards received by David, as containing the following
+reference:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The duty done, and act of reparation
+performed, which can alone enable me to contemplate my fellow
+mortal, I shall be known no more.&nbsp; I shall simply require to
+be deposited in that place of universal resort, where</p>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;Each in his narrow cell for ever
+laid,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">With the plain Inscription,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Wilkins Micawber</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>So, as the evening shades prevail, &ldquo;near and nearer
+drawn&rdquo; through &ldquo;the glimmering landscape,&rdquo; we
+again approach the lights of London Town, with (it may be hoped)
+pleasant reminiscences of the foregoing excursions.&nbsp; Should
+the Rambler, like Mr. John Harmon on a similar occasion, be
+accompanied by a friend, who perchance may be &ldquo;nearer and
+dearer than all other,&rdquo; he may appropriately endorse <a
+name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span><b>John
+Harmon&rsquo;s reflections</b> as he made the same journey under
+blissful circumstances (see &ldquo;Our Mutual Friend,&rdquo; book
+3, end of chapter 9)&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;O, boofer lady, fascinating boofer
+lady!&nbsp; If I were but legally executor of Johnny&rsquo;s
+will.&nbsp; If I had but the right to pay your legacy and take
+your receipt!&nbsp; Something to this purpose surely mingled with
+the blast of the train as it cleared the stations, all knowingly
+shutting up their green eyes and opening their red ones when they
+prepared to let the boofer lady pass.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h2><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+128</span>RAMBLE IX<br />
+<i>By Great Eastern Route from London to Yarmouth</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Liverpool Street Station&mdash;Epping
+Forest&mdash;Buckhurst Hill&mdash;Chigwell Village&mdash;Chigwell
+Churchyard; Resting-Place of Barnaby Rudge and his
+Mother&mdash;&ldquo;Grip&rdquo; the Raven&mdash;The
+&ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head Inn&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;The
+Maypole&rdquo;&mdash;Mr. Cattermole&rsquo;s
+Frontispiece&mdash;The Bar&mdash;The Landlord, John
+Willett&mdash;Dolly Varden&mdash;The Visit of the Varden
+Family&mdash;The Warren; Residence of Mr. Haredale and his
+Niece&mdash;By Main Line to Ipswich&mdash;The Great White Horse
+Hotel in Tavern Street&mdash;The Apartment of the Middle-Aged
+Lady&mdash;Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s Misadventure&mdash;St.
+Clement&rsquo;s Church&mdash;Job Trotter&mdash;The Green Gate,
+Residence of G. Nupkins, Esq.&mdash;Mary the Pretty
+Housemaid&mdash;Sam Weller&rsquo;s First Love&mdash;Ipswich to
+Great Yarmouth&mdash;Mr. Peggotty&rsquo;s Boat-house&mdash;Home
+of Little Emily&mdash;The Two London Coaches&mdash;The
+&ldquo;Angel Hotel&rdquo;&mdash;David&rsquo;s Dinner in the
+Coffee-Room&mdash;The Friendly Waiter&mdash;The &ldquo;Star
+Hotel&rdquo;&mdash;Headquarters of Copperfield and
+Steerforth&mdash;Miss Mowcher&rsquo;s First
+Introduction&mdash;Unlocalised
+Sites&mdash;Blundeston&mdash;Blunderstone Rookery&mdash;Early
+Childhood of Copperfield&mdash;Somerleyton Park.</p>
+<p>A pleasant drive from London to Chigwell is described in
+chapter 19 of &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge,&rdquo; and may be still taken
+about twelve miles by road, starting from Whitechapel Church
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Mile-End and Bow, thence crossing the River Lea,
+and proceeding, in the county of Essex, by way of
+<i>Stratford</i>, <i>Leytonstone</i>, <i>Snaresbrook</i>, and
+<i>Wilcox Green</i>.&nbsp; But time will be saved by adopting a
+convenient train, leaving Liverpool Street Station (Great Eastern
+Railway) for <i>Buckhurst Hill</i>&mdash;on the Ongar Branch
+Line&mdash;in the neighbourhood of Epping Forest, a district
+formerly preserved by the old monarchs of Merrie England for the
+enjoyment of field sports and the pleasures of the chase.</p>
+<p>From this point a country walk (under two miles), turning <a
+name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>eastward,
+and to the left after crossing the long intervening bridge, will
+lead in due course to the main road at Chigwell.&nbsp; Coming
+into the village we pass, at the corner on the right, <b>Chigwell
+Church</b>, surrounded by its quiet churchyard.&nbsp; This
+locality will be remembered as having afforded a resting-place to
+Barnaby and his mother after their visit to Mr. Haredale at
+<i>The Warren</i> (chapter 25).&nbsp; &ldquo;In the churchyard
+they sat down to take their frugal dinner&rdquo;&mdash;Grip, the
+raven, being one of the party&mdash;&ldquo;walking up and down
+when he had dined with an air of elderly complacency, which was
+strongly suggestive of his having his hands under his coat tails,
+and appearing to read the tombstones with a very critical
+taste.&rdquo;&nbsp; On the other side of the main road, a very
+little way onward (left), stands the old <b>King&rsquo;s Head
+Inn</b>, the original &ldquo;local habitation,&rdquo; if not
+&ldquo;the name,&rdquo; of the ancient hostelry so intimately
+associated with the central and domestic interests of the
+aforesaid historical novel, and known to us therein as <b>The
+Maypole</b>, &ldquo;an old building with more gable ends than a
+lazy man would care to count on a sunny day; its windows, old
+diamond pane lattices; its floors sunken and uneven; its ceilings
+blackened by the hand of time, and heavy with massive beams; with
+its overhanging storeys, drowsy little panes of glass, and front
+bulging out and projecting over the pathway.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p129.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; Chigwell"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; Chigwell"
+src="images/p129.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>This description is appropriate to the house as it stands at
+present, a fine old specimen of the timbered architecture of
+bygone centuries; but it may be remarked that <span
+class="smcap">The Illustration</span> drawn by Cattermole, which
+forms the frontispiece in the recent editions of &ldquo;Barnaby
+Rudge,&rdquo; is altogether beside the mark; for the designer has
+furnished therein, an elaborate and ornate picture of the old inn
+which does not correspond with fact, but rather remains in
+evidence of the beauty and exuberance of his artistic
+imagination.&nbsp; Here, then, we may recall the visit of Mr. and
+Mrs. Varden, accompanied by their daughter, the charming Dolly,
+&ldquo;the very pink and pattern of good looks, <a
+name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>in a smart
+little cherry-coloured mantle, with a hood of the same drawn over
+her head, and, upon the top of that hood, a little straw hat,
+trimmed with cherry-coloured ribbons, and worn the merest trifle
+on one side&mdash;just enough, in short, to make it the wickedest
+and most provoking head-dress that ever malicious milliner
+devised.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In the same connection <b>The</b> &ldquo;<b>Bar</b>&rdquo;
+<b>of the old</b> &ldquo;<b>Maypole</b>,&rdquo; the preparation
+for dinner, and the kitchen are thus described:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;All bars are snug places, but the
+Maypole&rsquo;s was the very snuggest, cosiest, and completest
+bar that ever the wit of man devised.&nbsp; Such amazing bottles
+in old oaken pigeon-holes; such gleaming tankards dangling from
+pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would hold them
+to their lips; such sturdy little Dutch kegs ranged in rows on
+shelves; so many lemons hanging in separate nets, and forming the
+fragrant grove already mentioned in this chronicle, suggestive,
+with goodly loaves of snowy sugar stowed away hard by, of punch,
+idealised beyond all mortal knowledge; such closets, such
+presses, such drawers full of pipes, such places for putting
+things away in hollow window seats, all crammed to the throat
+with eatables, drinkables, or savoury condiments; lastly, and to
+crown all, as typical of the immense resources of the
+establishment, and its defiances to all visitors to cut and come
+again, such a stupendous cheese!</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It is a poor heart that never rejoices&mdash;it must
+have been the poorest, weakest, and most watery heart that ever
+beat which would not have warmed towards the Maypole bar.&nbsp;
+Mrs. Varden&rsquo;s did directly.&nbsp; She could no more have
+reproached John Willet among those household gods, the kegs and
+bottles, lemons, pipes, and cheese, than she could have stabbed
+him with his own bright carving-knife.&nbsp; The order for dinner
+too&mdash;it might have soothed a savage.&nbsp; &lsquo;A bit of
+fish,&rsquo; said John to the cook, &lsquo;and some lamb chops
+(breaded, with plenty of ketchup), and a good salad, and a roast
+spring chicken, with a dish of sausages and mashed potatoes, or
+something of that sort.&rsquo;&nbsp; Something of that
+sort!&nbsp; The resources of these inns!&nbsp; To talk carelessly
+about dishes which in themselves were a first-rate holiday kind
+of dinner, suitable to one&rsquo;s wedding-day, as something of
+that sort, meaning, if you can&rsquo;t get a spring chicken, any
+other trifle in the way of poultry will do&mdash;such as a
+peacock, perhaps!&nbsp; The kitchen, too, with its great broad
+cavernous chimney; the kitchen, where nothing in the way of
+cookery seemed impossible; where you could believe in anything to
+eat they chose to tell you of.&nbsp; Mrs. Varden returned from
+the contemplation of these wonders to the bar again, with a head
+quite dizzy and bewildered.&nbsp; Her housekeeping capacity was
+not large enough to comprehend <a name="page131"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 131</span>them.&nbsp; She was obliged to go to
+sleep.&nbsp; Waking was pain, in the midst of such
+immensity.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Warren</b>, residence of Mr. Haredale and his niece, an
+old red-brick house, standing in its own grounds, was situated
+about a mile eastward from the Maypole, and was thence accessible
+by a path across the fields, from the garden exit of the inn, to
+its position on the border of Hainault Forest.&nbsp; (See final
+paragraph of chapter 19, &ldquo;Barnaby Rudge.&rdquo;)&nbsp; From
+many suggestions in the book, it occupied, in all probability,
+the site of <i>Forest House</i>, not a great distance from
+Chigwell Row; but of this no certainty exists.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Chigwell to Ipswich</span>.&nbsp; It will
+be best to return from <i>Buckhurst Hill</i> by rail to Stratford
+or Liverpool Street, in order to travel by fast main line train,
+to the good old town of Ipswich, our next destination.&nbsp; The
+journey&mdash;<i>vi&acirc;</i> Chelmsford and
+Colchester&mdash;will occupy about two hours, during which we may
+recall the memorable occasion of Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s excursion
+per coach from the &ldquo;Bull Inn,&rdquo; Whitechapel, to this
+ancient capital of Suffolk, attended by the faithful Sam, Mr.
+Weller, senior, driving, and beguiling the tediousness of the way
+with conversation of considerable
+interest&mdash;&ldquo;possessing the inestimable charm of
+blending amusement with instruction.&rdquo;&nbsp; Full details
+will be found on reference to the &ldquo;Pickwick Papers,&rdquo;
+chapter 22, together with the account of Mr. P.&rsquo;s
+introduction to his fellow-traveller, Mr. Peter Magnus, &ldquo;a
+red-haired man, with an inquisitive nose and blue
+spectacles.&rdquo;&nbsp; On arrival at the station at
+<b>Ipswich</b>, the wayfarer, crossing by bridge over the
+<i>Gipping</i> river, may proceed straight onwards through
+<i>Princes Street</i> (five minutes) to <i>Tavern
+Street</i>.&nbsp; Turning to the right, along this thoroughfare,
+he will soon see the <b>Great White Horse Hotel</b>, on the left
+side of Tavern Street.&nbsp; Tramcars from the station pass the
+hotel; also omnibus meets all trains.&nbsp; Telegraphic
+address&mdash;Pickwick, Ipswich.&nbsp; In the chapter before
+referred to is contained the following description:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+132</span>&ldquo;In the main street of Ipswich, on the left-hand
+side of the way, a short distance after you have passed through
+the open space fronting the Town Hall, stands an inn, known far
+and wide by the appellation of the Great White Horse, rendered
+the more conspicuous by a stone statue of some rapacious animal
+with flowing mane and tail, distinctly resembling an insane
+cart-horse, which is elevated above the principal door.&nbsp; The
+Great White Horse is famous in the neighbourhood in the same
+degree as a prize ox, or county paper-chronicled turnip, or
+unwieldy pig&mdash;for its enormous size.&nbsp; Never were such
+labyrinths of uncarpeted passages, such clusters of mouldy,
+ill-lighted rooms, such huge numbers of small dens for eating or
+sleeping in beneath one roof, as are collected together within
+the four walls of the Great White Horse at Ipswich.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p132.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;Great White Horse,&rdquo; Ipswich"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;Great White Horse,&rdquo; Ipswich"
+src="images/p132.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The Dickensian Rambler will well remember this hotel as the
+scene of <b>Mr. Pickwick&rsquo;s</b> &ldquo;<b>romantic</b>
+<b>adventure</b> with a middle-aged lady in yellow
+curl-papers,&rdquo; related <i>in extenso</i> in the same chapter
+as above.&nbsp; Information as to the exact bedroom allotted to
+Mr. Pickwick on the occasion of his visit to this place is,
+unfortunately, not afforded by local tradition; but the apartment
+occupied by &ldquo;Miss Witherfield,&rdquo; whose privacy Mr. P.
+inadvertently, but so unhappily, invaded, is indicated to
+visitors on the second floor&mdash;No. 36, according to recent
+rearrangement of enumeration, formerly known as No. 6.</p>
+<p>Poor Mr. Pickwick, on his escape from his awkward predicament,
+was unable to find his own room, but was at last rescued from his
+dilemma by his faithful servitor&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;After groping his way a few paces down the
+passage, and, to his infinite alarm, stumbling over several pairs
+of boots in so doing, Mr. Pickwick crouched into a little recess
+in the wall, to wait for morning as philosophically as he
+might.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;He was not destined, however, to undergo this
+additional trial of patience; for he had not been long ensconced
+in his present concealment when, to his unspeakable horror, a
+man, bearing a light, appeared at the end of the passage.&nbsp;
+His horror was suddenly converted into joy, however, when he
+recognised the form of his faithful attendant.&nbsp; It was
+indeed Mr. Samuel Weller, who after sitting up thus late, in
+conversation with the Boots, who was sitting up for the mail, was
+now about to retire to rest.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Sam,&rsquo; said Mr. Pickwick, suddenly
+appearing before him, &lsquo;where&rsquo;s my bedroom?&rsquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+133</span>&ldquo;Mr. Weller stared at his master with the most
+emphatic surprise; and it was not until the question had been
+repeated three several times, that he turned round, and led the
+way to the long-sought apartment.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Sam,&rsquo; said Mr. Pickwick, as he got into
+bed.&nbsp; &lsquo;I have made one of the most extraordinary
+mistakes to-night that were ever heard of.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Wery likely, sir,&rsquo; said Mr. Weller
+drily.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;But of this I am determined, Sam,&rsquo; said
+Mr. Pickwick, &lsquo;that if I were to stop in this house for six
+months, I would never trust myself about it alone
+again.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;That&rsquo;s the wery prudentest resolution as
+you could come to, sir,&rsquo; replied Mr. Weller.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;You rayther want somebody to look arter you, sir, wen your
+judgment goes out a wisitin&rsquo;.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>By way of <i>Upper Brook Street</i>, <i>Tacket Street</i>, and
+<i>Orwell Place</i>, we come to <i>Fore Street</i>, <i>St.
+Clement&rsquo;s</i> (a thoroughfare in which still remain several
+old houses of the sixteenth century), and soon reach the
+whereabouts of <b>St. Clement&rsquo;s Church</b>, towards which,
+on the morning following the disasters of the night of their
+arrival, Mr. Samuel Weller bent his steps, and</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;endeavoured to dissipate his melancholy by
+strolling among its ancient precincts.&nbsp; He had loitered
+about for some time, when he found himself in a retired
+spot&mdash;a kind of courtyard of venerable
+appearance&mdash;which he discovered had no other outlet than the
+turning by which he had entered.&nbsp; He was about retracing his
+steps, when he was suddenly transfixed to the spot by a sudden
+appearance; and the mode and manner of this appearance we now
+proceed to relate.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Mr. Samuel Weller had been staring up at the old brick
+houses now and then, in his deep abstraction, bestowing a wink
+upon some healthy-looking servant girl as she drew up a blind, or
+threw open a bedroom window, when the green gate at the bottom of
+the yard opened, and a man having emerged therefrom, closed the
+green gate very carefully after him, and walked briskly towards
+the very spot where Mr. Weller was standing.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This personage proved to be none other than <b>Mr. Job
+Trotter</b>, whose black hair and mulberry suit were at once
+recognised by Sam, though their owner did his best to evade
+detection:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;As the green gate was closed behind him,
+and there was no other outlet but the one in front, however, he
+was not long in perceiving that he must pass Mr. Samuel Weller to
+get away.&nbsp; He therefore resumed his brisk pace, and
+advanced, staring straight before him.&nbsp; <a
+name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>The most
+extraordinary thing about the man was, that he was contorting his
+face into the most fearful and astonishing grimaces that ever
+were beheld.&nbsp; Nature&rsquo;s handiwork never was disguised
+with such extraordinary artificial carving, as the man had
+overlaid his countenance with in one moment.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Green Gate</b> thus alluded to may yet be seen in a
+passage or court at the bottom of <i>Angel Lane</i> (leading to
+Back Street).&nbsp; It is the last garden gate in the churchyard,
+a short distance from Church Street.&nbsp; The same courtyard and
+gate will be remembered as the official entrance to the
+<b>Residence of George Nupkins</b>, <b>Esq.</b>, the Worshipful
+Mayor of Ipswich, before whom the Pickwickian party were
+arraigned, in charge of the redoubtable chief constable of the
+town.&nbsp; We read in chapter 25 as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Mr. Weller&rsquo;s anger quickly gave way
+to curiosity when the procession turned down the identical
+courtyard in which he had met with the runaway Job Trotter; and
+curiosity was exchanged for a feeling of the most gleeful
+astonishment, when the all-important Mr. Grummer, commanding the
+sedan-bearers to halt, advanced with dignified and portentous
+steps to the very green gate from which Job Trotter had emerged,
+and gave a mighty pull at the bell-handle which hung at the side
+thereof.&nbsp; The ring was answered by a very smart and
+pretty-faced servant-girl, who, after holding up her hands in
+astonishment at the rebellious appearance of the prisoners, and
+the impassioned language of Mr. Pickwick, summoned Mr.
+Muzzle.&nbsp; Mr. Muzzle opened one-half of the carriage gate to
+admit the sedan, the captured ones, and the specials, and
+immediately slammed it in the faces of the mob. . . .</p>
+<p>&ldquo;At the foot of a flight of steps, leading to the house
+door, which was guarded on either side by an American aloe in a
+green tub, the sedan-chair stopped.&nbsp; Mr. Pickwick and his
+friends were conducted into the hall, whence, having been
+previously announced by Muzzle, and ordered in by Mr. Nupkins,
+they were ushered into the worshipful presence of that
+public-spirited officer.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And we all recollect the resulting <i>expos&eacute;</i> of the
+designs of Mr. Alfred Jingle (<i>alias</i> Captain Fitzmarshall),
+and the return by Mr. Weller of &ldquo;Job Trotter&rsquo;s
+shuttlecock as heavily as it came.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>It should also be not forgotten that it was at this house Mr.
+Weller met with his lady-elect, <b>Mary</b>, <b>the Pretty
+Housemaid</b> (afterwards maid to Mrs. <a
+name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>Winkle),
+and that here the first passage of first love occurred between
+them.&nbsp; For the pleasant narration of the episode, reference
+should be made to the conclusion of the foregoing
+chapter:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Now, there was nobody in the kitchen but
+the pretty housemaid; and as Sam&rsquo;s hat was mislaid, he had
+to look for it, and the pretty housemaid lighted him.&nbsp; They
+had to look all over the place for the hat.&nbsp; The pretty
+housemaid, in her anxiety to find it, went down on her knees, and
+turned over all the things that were heaped together in a little
+corner by the door.&nbsp; It was an awkward corner.&nbsp; You
+couldn&rsquo;t get at it without shutting the door first.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Here it is,&rsquo; said the pretty
+housemaid.&nbsp; &lsquo;This is it, ain&rsquo;t it?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Let me look,&rsquo; said Sam.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The pretty housemaid had stood the candle on the floor;
+as it gave a very dim light, Sam was obliged to go down on his
+knees before he could see whether it really was his own hat or
+not.&nbsp; It was a remarkably small corner, and so&mdash;it was
+nobody&rsquo;s fault but the man&rsquo;s who built the
+house&mdash;Sam and the pretty housemaid were necessarily very
+close together.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Yes, this is it,&rsquo; said Sam.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Good-bye!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Good-bye!&rsquo; said the pretty housemaid.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Good-bye!&rsquo; said Sam; and as he said it, he
+dropped the hat that had cost so much trouble in looking for.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;How awkward you are,&rsquo; said the pretty
+housemaid.&nbsp; &lsquo;You&rsquo;ll lose it again, if you
+don&rsquo;t take care.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;So, just to prevent his losing it again, she put it on
+for him.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Whether it was that the pretty housemaid&rsquo;s face
+looked prettier still, when it was raised towards Sam&rsquo;s, or
+whether it was the accidental consequence of their being so near
+to each other, is matter of uncertainty to this day; but Sam
+kissed her.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;You don&rsquo;t mean to say that you did that on
+purpose,&rsquo; said the pretty housemaid, blushing.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;No, I didn&rsquo;t then,&rsquo; said Sam;
+&lsquo;but I will now.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;So he kissed her again.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Sam!&rsquo; said Mr. Pickwick, calling over the
+banisters.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Coming, sir,&rsquo; replied Sam, running
+upstairs.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;How long you have been!&rsquo; said Mr.
+Pickwick.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;There was something behind the door, sir, which
+perwented our getting it open, for ever so long, sir,&rsquo;
+replied Sam.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Resuming the journey onwards by rail from Ipswich, the route
+is continued <i>vi&acirc; Saxmundham Junction</i>,
+<i>Halesworth</i>, and <i>Beccles</i>, to the South Town Station
+at <a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+136</span><b>Great Yarmouth</b>, a well-known and favourite
+seaside resort, of much interest to the Dickensian Rambler, as
+being intimately associated with the personal history and
+experience of David Copperfield.&nbsp; Visitors are recommended,
+for reasons hereafter to be seen, to select as their place of
+sojourn either the &ldquo;<i>Star Hotel</i>&rdquo; on the Hall
+Quay, or the &ldquo;<i>Angel</i>,&rdquo; near the
+market-place.&nbsp; Any thoroughfare leading eastward from either
+of these will conduct to the <i>Marine Parade</i>, in full view
+of the German Ocean.</p>
+<p>Towards the southern end of this sea frontage of the town,
+there may be localised the spot where once stood the <b>Home of
+Little Emily</b>, &ldquo;a black barge or some other kind of
+superannuated boat, high and dry on the ground, with an iron
+funnel sticking out of it for a chimney.&nbsp; There was a
+delightful door cut in the side; it was roofed in, and there were
+little windows in it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The position of this old boat-house, as belonging to
+Dan&rsquo;l Peggotty, was at the upper extremity of the <i>South
+Denes</i>, a flat and grassy expanse&mdash;beyond the
+<i>Wellington Pier</i> and <i>South Battery</i>&mdash;in the
+neighbourhood of the <i>Nelson Column</i>, facing the sea.</p>
+<p>In chapter 22 we find a reference to the South Town ferry,
+crossing the Yare, &ldquo;to a flat between the river and the
+sea, Mr. Peggotty&rsquo;s house being on that waste place, and
+not a hundred yards out of the track.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>[There is a small wooden erection, more than a mile and a half
+distant, on the sea-front near <i>Gorleston
+Pier</i>&mdash;between two well-built houses&mdash;assuming the
+name of <i>Peggotty&rsquo;s Hut</i>; but this is an evident
+absurdity and misnomer.]</p>
+<p>Here, then, we may recall the many interests and incidents
+connected with the experiences of the Peggotty family, and the
+sorrowful history of Little Emily, notably the fateful occasion
+of <span class="smcap">Steerforth&rsquo;s First Visit</span>,
+concerning which David records in chapter 21 of his
+autobiography, to the following effect:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Em&rsquo;ly, indeed, said little all the
+evening; but she looked, and listened, and her face got animated,
+and she was charming.&nbsp; Steerforth told a story of a dismal
+shipwreck (which arose out of his talk with Mr. <a
+name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>Peggotty),
+as if he saw it all before him&mdash;and little
+Em&rsquo;ly&rsquo;s eyes were fastened on him all the time, as if
+she saw it too.&nbsp; He told us a merry adventure of his own, as
+a relief to that, with as much gaiety as if the narrative were as
+fresh to him as it was to us&mdash;and little Em&rsquo;ly laughed
+until the boat rang with the musical sounds, and we all laughed
+(Steerforth too), in irresistible sympathy with what was so
+pleasant and lighthearted.&nbsp; He got Mr. Peggotty to sing, or
+rather to roar, &lsquo;When the stormy winds do blow, do blow, do
+blow;&rsquo; and he sang a sailor&rsquo;s song himself, so
+pathetically and beautifully, that I could have almost fancied
+that the real wind creeping sorrowfully round the house, and
+murmuring low through our unbroken silence, was there to
+listen.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Thus commenced the sad story of the poor girl&rsquo;s
+fascination and subsequent flight with Steerforth, never more to
+return to the old home.&nbsp; In this connection we may recall
+the graphic and powerful description of the great <b>Storm at
+Yarmouth</b>, as contained in chapter 55, when Ham met his fate
+in the gallant attempt to rescue the last survivor of a wrecked
+and perishing crew, Steerforth himself:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;They drew him to my very
+feet&mdash;insensible&mdash;dead.&nbsp; He was carried to the
+nearest house; and, no one preventing me now, I remained near
+him, busy, while every means of restoration was tried; but he had
+been beaten to death by the great wave, and his generous heart
+was stilled for ever.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;As I sat beside the bed, when hope was abandoned and
+all was done, a fisherman, who had known me when Emily and I were
+children, and ever since, whispered my name at the door.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Sir,&rsquo; said he, with tears starting to his
+weather-beaten face, which, with his trembling lips, was ashy
+pale, &lsquo;will you come over yonder?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The old remembrance that had been recalled to me was in
+his look.&nbsp; I asked him, terror-stricken, leaning on the arm
+he held out to support me&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Has a body come ashore?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;He said, &lsquo;Yes.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Do I know it?&rsquo; I asked then.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;He answered nothing.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But he led me to the shore.&nbsp; And on that part of
+it where she and I had looked for shells, two children&mdash;on
+that part of it where some lighter fragments of the old boat,
+blown down last night, had been scattered by the wind&mdash;among
+the ruins of the home he had wronged&mdash;I saw him lying with
+his head upon his arm, as I had often seen him lie at
+school.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>In
+the days of Copperfield, <b>Two Coaches</b> ran between Great
+Yarmouth and London&mdash;&ldquo;The Blue&rdquo; and &ldquo;The
+Royal Mail.&rdquo;&nbsp; On the occasion of David&rsquo;s first
+journey to his school at Blackheath, he travelled by the former
+of these, from <b>The Angel Hotel</b>, in the Market Place.&nbsp;
+We may here recall his dinner of chops in the coffee-room, at
+which the &ldquo;friendly waiter&rdquo; assisted, helping himself
+to the lion&rsquo;s share.</p>
+<p>In chapter 5 of his History, David relates the attendant
+circumstances of this, his second visit to Yarmouth; and how,
+starting as above from the hotel, his dinner&mdash;ordered and
+paid for in advance&mdash;was mainly consumed by proxy, ale
+included.&nbsp; We read that the waiter, &ldquo;a twinkling-eyed,
+pimple-faced man, with his hair standing upright all over his
+head,&rdquo; invited himself to the meal:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;He took a chop by the bone in one hand, and
+a potato in the other, and ate away with a very good appetite, to
+my extreme satisfaction.&nbsp; He afterwards took another chop,
+and another potato; and after that another chop and another
+potato.&nbsp; When we had done, he brought me a pudding, and
+having set it before me, seemed to ruminate, and to become absent
+in his mind for some moments.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;How&rsquo;s the pie?&rsquo; he said, rousing
+himself.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;It&rsquo;s a pudding,&rsquo; I made answer.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Pudding!&rsquo; he exclaimed.&nbsp; &lsquo;Why,
+bless me, so it is!&nbsp; What!&rsquo; looking at it
+nearer.&nbsp; &lsquo;You don&rsquo;t mean to say it&rsquo;s a
+batter-pudding?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Yes, it is indeed.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Why, a batter-pudding,&rsquo; he said, taking up
+a table-spoon, &lsquo;is my favourite pudding.&nbsp; Ain&rsquo;t
+that lucky?&nbsp; Come on, little &rsquo;un, and let&rsquo;s see
+who&rsquo;ll get most.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The waiter certainly got most.&nbsp; He entreated me
+more than once to come in and win, but what with his table-spoon
+to my tea-spoon, his despatch to my despatch, and his appetite to
+my appetite, I was left far behind at the first mouthful, and had
+no chance with him.&nbsp; I never saw any one enjoy a pudding so
+much, I think; and he laughed, when it was all gone, as if his
+enjoyment of it lasted still.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On his return journey from London, we find him coming down by
+&ldquo;The Mail,&rdquo; which stopped at <b>The Star Hotel</b>,
+on the Hall Quay, where the bedchamber, &ldquo;The
+Dolphin,&rdquo; was assigned for his accommodation.&nbsp; He and
+his friend Steerforth, in after visits, <a
+name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>frequently
+adopted this &ldquo;Royal Mail&rdquo; conveyance, making
+headquarters at the &ldquo;Star Hotel.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The &ldquo;volatile&rdquo; <i>Miss Mowcher</i> is first
+introduced to us at this establishment.</p>
+<p>In chapter 22 we have the full account of David&rsquo;s visit
+to Yarmouth in company with Steerforth.&nbsp; They &ldquo;stayed
+for more than a fortnight in that part of the country,&rdquo;
+during which time Littimer, being in attendance one evening at
+this hotel during dinner, informed them that <b>Miss Mowcher</b>
+was making one of her professional visits to the town, and
+desired an opportunity of waiting on his master.&nbsp; David
+says:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I remained, therefore, in a state of
+considerable expectation until the cloth had been removed some
+half-an-hour, and we were sitting over our decanter of wine
+before the fire, when the door opened, and Littimer, with his
+habitual serenity quite undisturbed, announced:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Miss Mowcher!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I looked at the doorway and saw nothing.&nbsp; I was
+still looking at the doorway, thinking that Miss Mowcher was a
+long while making her appearance, when, to my infinite
+astonishment, there came waddling round a sofa which stood
+between me and it, a pursy dwarf, of about forty or forty-five,
+with a very large head and face, a pair of roguish grey eyes, and
+such extremely little arms, that, to enable herself to lay a
+finger archly against her snub nose as she ogled Steerforth, she
+was obliged to meet the finger half-way, and lay her nose against
+it.&nbsp; Her chin, which was what is called a double-chin, was
+so fat that it entirely swallowed up the strings of her bonnet,
+bow and all.&nbsp; Throat she had none; waist she had none; legs
+she had none, worth mentioning; for though she was more than
+full-sized down to where her waist would have been, if she had
+had any, and though she terminated, as human beings generally do,
+in a pair of feet, she was so short that she stood at a
+common-sized chair as at a table, resting a bag she carried on
+the seat.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Sites Unlocalised</b>.&nbsp; At this distance of time it is
+impossible to indicate the locality of &ldquo;<i>The Willing
+Mind</i>&rdquo;&mdash;patronised by Mr. Peggotty&mdash;the
+residence of <i>Mr. and Mrs. Barkis</i>, or the establishment of
+<i>Messrs Omer and Joram</i>.&nbsp; The last is described as
+being &ldquo;in a narrow street,&rdquo; and should be doubtless
+looked for in the older part of the town.</p>
+<p><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+140</span><b>Blundeston</b>, the birthplace of Copperfield, may
+be visited from <i>Somerleyton Station</i>, on the line between
+Yarmouth and Lowestoft.&nbsp; The village, with its round-towered
+church, is situated about four miles eastward from the
+railway.&nbsp; The house indicated in the novel as
+<i>Blunderstone Rookery</i> stands next the church.&nbsp; The
+excursion could include, <i>en route</i>, a visit to Somerleyton
+Park, open to the public on Wednesdays.</p>
+<h2><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+141</span>RAMBLE X<br />
+<i>London to Dorking and Portsmouth</i></h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">Nicholas Nickleby and Smike on their
+travels&mdash;Excursion by Coach, &ldquo;The
+Perseverance&rdquo;&mdash;Route to Dorking&mdash;Residence of Mr.
+and Mrs. Tony Weller&mdash;The &ldquo;Marquis of
+Granby&rdquo;&mdash;The Rev. Mr. Stiggins and his
+&ldquo;pertickler vanity&rdquo;&mdash;The downfall of
+Stiggins&mdash;The old Horse-trough&mdash;Dorking to
+Portsmouth&mdash;Parentage of Dickens&mdash;Registration of
+Charles John Huffham Dickens&mdash;Birthplace of
+Dickens&mdash;The Theatre-Royal&mdash;The Old
+Theatre&mdash;Unlocalised Localities&mdash;Portsmouth to
+London&mdash;Westminster Abbey&mdash;Tomb of Dickens&mdash;His
+Funeral as reported by the <i>Daily News</i>, June
+1870&mdash;Poetical Tribute&mdash;The future Outlook.</p>
+<p>In the early days of the present century, Nicholas Nickleby
+leaving London with Smike, bound for Portsmouth, took the high
+road <i>vi&acirc;</i> Kingston and Godalming (with a view, <i>en
+passant</i>, of the Devil&rsquo;s Punch-bowl); walking steadily
+onward until arrival, on their second day&rsquo;s march, at a
+roadside inn&mdash;probably in the neighbourhood of
+<i>Horndean</i>.&nbsp; Here they met with Mr. Vincent Crummles,
+of histrionic fame, and ended their more immediate perplexities
+by an engagement with that gentleman.&nbsp; There was no railway
+communication in those times, and coach fare was expensive; but
+now-a-days we have adopted a cheaper and more speedy means of
+transit, and may reach Portsmouth from London quickly, by two
+lines of railroad.</p>
+<p>As, in the following excursion, it is proposed to make an
+intermediate visit <i>en route</i> to the residence (once on a
+time) of Mr. and Mrs. Tony Weller, a journey by coach is
+recommended to Dorking, as affording a suitable compliment to Mr.
+Weller&rsquo;s memory and profession.&nbsp; A delightful journey
+may thus be made by &ldquo;The Perseverance&rdquo; coach, which
+starts every week-day during the season, <a
+name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>from
+Northumberland Avenue, at 10.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>,
+and travels four-in-hand, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Roehampton, Kingston,
+Surbiton, Epsom, Leatherhead, Mickleham, and Boxhill, and arrives
+at <b>Dorking</b>, in time for luncheon at the &ldquo;White Horse
+Hotel,&rdquo; at which the coach stops.</p>
+<p>The interest of this country town centres, for Pickwickian
+readers, in the &ldquo;<i>Marquis of Granby</i>,&rdquo; once an
+inn.&nbsp; It exists no longer as such, having been long since
+converted into a grocer&rsquo;s establishment.&nbsp; It will be
+found in the High Street, opposite the Post Office, at the side
+of <i>Chequers&rsquo; Court</i>, which runs between it and the
+<i>London and County Bank</i>.&nbsp; The old sign-board, the cosy
+bar, with its store of choice wines and pine-apple rum (Mr.
+Stiggins&rsquo;s &ldquo;pertickler vanity&rdquo;), and the
+horse-trough in which the reverend gentleman was half drowned by
+the irate Weller, senior, are now among the things that are not;
+but the old house still remains <i>in situ</i>, altered to the
+uses of its present occupancy.</p>
+<p>In chapter 27 of the Pickwick records we read of Sam&rsquo;s
+first pilgrimage to Dorking, on which occasion he paid his filial
+respects to his mother-in-law, the rather stout lady of
+comfortable appearance, who conducted the business of the house;
+and made his acquaintance with the Rev. Mr. Stiggins of saintly
+memory.&nbsp; The description of the establishment is given as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The &lsquo;Marquis of Granby&rsquo; in Mrs.
+Weller&rsquo;s time was quite a model of a roadside public-house
+of the better class&mdash;just large enough to be convenient, and
+small enough to be snug.&nbsp; On the opposite side of the road
+was a large sign-board on a high post, representing the head and
+shoulders of a gentleman with an apoplectic countenance, in a red
+coat with deep-blue facings, and a touch of the same blue over
+his three-cornered hat, for a sky.&nbsp; Over that again were a
+pair of flags; beneath the last button of his coat were a couple
+of cannon; and the whole formed an expressive and undoubted
+likeness of the Marquis of Granby of glorious memory.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The bar window displayed a choice collection of
+geranium plants, and a well-dusted row of spirit phials.&nbsp;
+The open shutters bore a variety of golden inscriptions,
+eulogistic of good beds and neat wines; and the choice group of
+countrymen and hostlers lounging about the stable-door and
+horse-trough, afforded presumptive proof of the excellent <a
+name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>quality of
+the ale and spirits which were sold within.&nbsp; Sam Weller
+paused, when he dismounted from the coach, to note all these
+little indications of a thriving business, with the eye of an
+experienced traveller; and having done so, stepped in at once,
+highly satisfied with everything he had observed.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. Stiggins</b>, the clerical friend and spiritual adviser
+of the worthy hostess, having fully ingratiated himself in her
+good graces, was in the habit of making himself very much at home
+at &ldquo;The Marquis&rdquo;; greatly appreciating the creature
+comforts there obtainable, and the good liquors kept in
+stock.&nbsp; In point of fact, knowing when he was well off, he
+lived well&mdash;if not wisely&mdash;on Mrs. Weller&rsquo;s
+hospitable bounty, and made headquarters at this Dorking
+inn.&nbsp; On the occasion of Sam&rsquo;s first visit before
+referred to&mdash;in chapter 27, as above&mdash;this estimable
+character is thus introduced to the notice of Pickwickian
+students:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;He was a prim-faced, red-nosed man, with a
+long, thin countenance, and a semi-rattlesnake sort of
+eye&mdash;rather sharp, but decidedly bad.&nbsp; He wore very
+short trousers, and black-cotton stockings, which, like the rest
+of his apparel, were particularly rusty.&nbsp; His looks were
+starched, but his white neckerchief was not, and its long limp
+ends straggled over his closely-buttoned waistcoat in a very
+uncouth and unpicturesque fashion.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The fire was blazing brightly under the influence of
+the bellows, and the kettle was singing gaily under the influence
+of both.&nbsp; A small tray of tea things was arranged on the
+table, a plate of hot buttered toast was gently simmering before
+the fire, and the red-nosed man himself was busily engaged in
+converting a large slice of bread into the same agreeable edible,
+through the instrumentality of a long brass toasting-fork.&nbsp;
+Beside him stood a glass of reeking hot pine-apple rum and water,
+with a slice of lemon in it; and every time the red-nosed man
+stopped to bring the round of toast to his eye, with the view of
+ascertaining how it got on, he imbibed a drop or two of the hot
+pine-apple rum and water, and smiled upon the rather stout lady,
+as she blew the fire.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The downfall of Stiggins</b>.&nbsp; The season of his
+prosperity came to a sad ending after the demise of his
+patroness; and in chapter 52 we read of his reverse of fortune,
+and the final <i>cong&eacute;</i> given to the reverend gentleman
+by the irate Mr. Weller, senior, who dismissed him from his <a
+name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>household
+chaplaincy, in a manner more peremptory than pleasant:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;He walked softly into the bar, and
+presently returning with the tumbler half full of pine-apple rum,
+advanced to the kettle which was singing gaily on the hob, mixed
+his grog, stirred it, sipped it, sat down, and taking a long and
+hearty pull at the rum and water, stopped for breath.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The elder Mr. Weller, who still continued to make
+various strange and uncouth attempts to appear asleep, offered
+not a single word during these proceedings; but when Stiggins
+stopped for breath, he darted upon him, and snatching the tumbler
+from his hand, threw the remainder of the rum and water in his
+face, and the glass itself into the grate.&nbsp; Then, seizing
+the reverend gentleman firmly by the collar, he suddenly fell to
+kicking him most furiously, accompanying every application of his
+top-boots to Mr. Stiggins&rsquo;s person, with sundry violent and
+incoherent anathemas upon his limbs, eyes, and body.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Sammy,&rsquo; said Mr. Weller, &lsquo;put my hat
+on tight for me.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Sam dutifully adjusted the hat with the long hatband
+more firmly on his father&rsquo;s head, and the old gentleman,
+resuming his kicking with greater agility than before, tumbled
+with Mr. Stiggins through the bar, and through the passage, out
+at the front door, and so into the street; the kicking continuing
+the whole way, and increasing in vehemence, rather than
+diminishing, every time the top-boot was lifted.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It was a beautiful and exhilarating sight to see the
+red-nosed man writhing in Mr. Weller&rsquo;s grasp, and his whole
+frame quivering with anguish as kick followed kick in rapid
+succession; it was a still more exciting spectacle to behold Mr.
+Weller, after a powerful struggle, immersing Mr. Stiggins&rsquo;s
+head in a horse-trough full of water, and holding it there until
+he was half-suffocated.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The old horse-trough, as depicted by &ldquo;Phiz&rdquo; in the
+original illustrated title-page of the book, has long since given
+place to local alteration and improvement; but &ldquo;hereabouts
+it stood.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>There are many pleasant and humorous associations connected
+with this old place of country entertainment, as duly set forth
+in the Pickwick annals; but it should be remembered that many
+years have passed since their publication (1837), and that men
+and manners have greatly changed and bettered.&nbsp; It is
+satisfactory to reflect that Mr. Stiggins and his brethren have
+altogether become obsolete <a name="page145"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 145</span>in English middle-class society, and
+that the protest so embodied sixty years since is no longer
+necessary.&nbsp; In these happier days, earnestness and ability
+have, in the main, superseded laziness and cant.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Dorking to Portsmouth</span>.&nbsp; The
+journey being resumed by railway, we travel southward and
+westward through the pleasant fields and pasture lands of Sussex,
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Horsham and Chichester, to the old town of
+Portsmouth, where, in Landport, Portsea, Charles Dickens was
+born, on Friday, the 7th of February 1812.&nbsp; He was the
+second son (in a family of eight, six surviving infancy) of Mr.
+John Dickens, a clerk in the Navy Pay Office at the
+Dockyard.&nbsp; The name of his mother, previous to her marriage,
+was Elizabeth Barrow.&nbsp; The baptismal record at Portsea
+registers him as <span class="smcap">Charles John Huffham
+Dickens</span>, but he very seldom used any other signature than
+the one with which we are all familiar.&nbsp; On arrival at the
+Portsmouth town station, we leave the railway, turning to the
+right, and proceed onwards, in the main thoroughfare of
+Commercial Road.&nbsp; Thus we shortly reach, in due course,
+<b>The Birthplace of Dickens</b>.&nbsp; The house (No. 387
+Commercial Road, Landport) stands about half a mile northward (to
+the right) from the railway station, with a neat forecourt.&nbsp;
+It bears a tablet recording date of the event, as above.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p145.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Dickens&rsquo; Birthplace"
+title=
+"Dickens&rsquo; Birthplace"
+src="images/p145.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>South of the station (leftward), beyond the Town Hall, will be
+found, on the right, <b>The Theatre Royal</b>; but it should be
+noted that this is <i>not</i> the establishment referred to in
+&ldquo;Nicholas Nickleby.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>That old theatre, at which Nicholas&mdash;adopting the
+professional <i>alias</i> of &ldquo;Johnson&rdquo;&mdash;made his
+histrionic <i>d&eacute;but</i> under the managerial auspices of
+Mr. Vincent Crummles, occupied, some eighty years since, the
+present site of <b>The Cambridge Barracks</b>, in the <i>High
+Street</i>, farther onwards.</p>
+<p>We read in the same book that the <i>Crummles</i> family
+resided at the house of one Bulph, a pilot; that <i>Miss
+Snevellicci</i> had lodgings in Lombard Street, at the house of
+<a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>a
+tailor, where also <i>Mr. and Mrs. Lillyvick</i> found temporary
+accommodation; and that <i>Nicholas</i> and <i>Smike</i> lived in
+two small rooms, up three pair of stairs, at a
+tobacconist&rsquo;s shop, on the Common Hard.&nbsp; But it is not
+possible to particularise these places; indeed, it is altogether
+doubtful whether they had any special assignment in the mind of
+the author himself.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Leaving Portsmouth, at convenience, by the <i>Brighton and
+South Coast Railway</i>, we may take the return journey to London
+in about three hours, arriving at the West End Terminus of the
+line, <i>Victoria Station</i>.&nbsp; From this point we may
+revisit, <i>vi&acirc; Victoria Street</i>, about half a mile in
+distance, <b>Westminster Abbey</b>, containing the <span
+class="smcap">Tomb of Dickens</span>, which will be found in the
+classic shade of the <i>Poets&rsquo; Corner</i>.&nbsp; At the
+time of his death the <i>Times</i> &ldquo;took the lead in
+suggesting that the only fit resting-place for the remains of a
+man so dear to England was the Abbey, in which most illustrious
+Englishmen are laid;&rdquo; and accordingly, on the 14th of June,
+the funeral took place, with a strict observance of
+privacy.&nbsp; In Dean Stanley&rsquo;s &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">Westminster Abbey</span>&rdquo; the following
+statement is given:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Close under the bust of Thackeray lies
+Charles Dickens, not, it may be, his equal in humour, but more
+than his equal in his hold on the popular mind, as was shown in
+the intense and general enthusiasm shown at his grave.&nbsp; The
+funeral, according to Dickens&rsquo;s urgent and express desire
+in his will, was strictly private.&nbsp; It took place at an
+early hour in the summer morning, the grave having been dug in
+secret the night before; and the vast solitary space of the Abbey
+was occupied only by the small band of mourners, and the Abbey
+clergy, who, without any music except the occasional peal of the
+organ, read the funeral service.&nbsp; For days the spot was
+visited by thousands; many were the flowers strewn upon it by
+unknown hands; many were the tears shed by the poorer
+visitors.&nbsp; He rests beside Sheridan, Garrick, and
+Henderson.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The plain stone covering the tomb is inscribed</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">CHARLES DICKENS,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Born February 7th,
+1812.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Died June 9th, 1870.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+147</span><b>Report of the Funeral</b>, as published in the
+<i>Daily News</i>, June 15th, 1870:&mdash;&ldquo;Charles Dickens
+lies, without one of his injunctions respecting his funeral
+having been violated, surrounded by poets and men of
+genius.&nbsp; Shakespeare&rsquo;s marble effigy looked yesterday
+into his open grave; at his feet are Dr. Johnson and David
+Garrick; his head is by Addison and Handel; while Oliver
+Goldsmith, Rowe, Southey, Campbell, Thomson, Sheridan, Macaulay,
+and Thackeray, or their memorials, encircle him; and
+&lsquo;Poets&rsquo; Corner,&rsquo; the most familiar spot in the
+whole Abbey, has thus received an illustrious addition to its
+peculiar glory. . . .&nbsp; Dickens&rsquo;s obsequies were as
+simple as he desired.&nbsp; The news that a special train left
+Rochester at an early hour yesterday morning, and that it carried
+his remains, was soon telegraphed to London; but every
+arrangement had been completed beforehand, and there was no one
+in the Abbey; no one to follow the three simple mourning coaches
+and the hearse; no one to obtrude upon the mourners.&nbsp; The
+waiting-room at Charing Cross Station was set apart for the
+latter for the quarter of an hour they remained there; the Abbey
+doors were closed directly they reached it; and even the mourning
+coaches were not permitted to wait.&nbsp; A couple of street cabs
+and a single brougham took the funeral party away when the last
+solemn rites were over, so that passers-by were unaware that any
+ceremony was being conducted; and it was not until a good hour
+after that the south transept began to fill.&nbsp; There were no
+cloaks, no weepers, no bands, no scarfs, no feathers, none of the
+dismal frippery of the undertaker.&nbsp; We yesterday bade the
+reader turn to that portion of &lsquo;Great Expectations,&rsquo;
+in which the funeral of Joe Gargery&rsquo;s wife is described; he
+will there find full details of the miserable things
+omitted.&nbsp; In the same part of the same volume he will find
+reverent allusion to the time when &lsquo;those noble passages
+are read which remind humanity how it brought nothing into the
+world and can take nothing out, and how it fleeth like a shadow,
+and never continueth long in one stay;&rsquo; and will think of
+the solemn scene in Westminster <a name="page148"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 148</span>Abbey, with the Dean reading our
+solemn burial service, the organ chiming in, subdued and low, and
+the vast place empty, save for the little group of heart-stricken
+people by an open grave; a plain oak coffin, with a brass plate
+bearing the inscription:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">&lsquo;CHARLES
+DICKENS,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Born February 7th, 1812,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Died June 9th, 1870&rsquo;;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>a coffin strewed with wreaths and flowers by the female
+mourners; and then dust to dust and ashes to ashes!&nbsp; Such
+was the funeral of the great man who has gone.&nbsp; In coming to
+the Abbey, in the first coach were the late Mr. Dickens&rsquo;s
+children&mdash;Mr. Charles Dickens, jun., Mr. Harry Dickens, Miss
+Dickens, Mrs. Charles Collins.&nbsp; In the second coach were
+Mrs. Austin, his sister; Mrs. Charles Dickens, jun.; Miss
+Hogarth, his sister-in-law; Mr. John Forster.&nbsp; In the third
+coach Mr. Frank Beard, his medical attendant; Mr. Charles
+Collins, his son-in-law; Mr. Dewey, his solicitor; Mr. Wilkie
+Collins; Mr. Edmund Dickens, his nephew.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;By the orders of the Dean of Westminster, the officials
+were instructed to keep the grave open until six o&rsquo;clock
+last evening, and all who came had the melancholy satisfaction of
+seeing not only the grave itself, but the polished oak coffin
+which contained the remains of the lamented deceased.&nbsp; A
+raised platform was placed around the grave, and two of the
+vergers of the Abbey were in attendance to prevent crowding and
+preserve order, an almost unnecessary precaution, for all who
+came, comprising persons of various classes, conducted themselves
+in the most exemplary manner.&nbsp; In the afternoon, when the
+fact of the interment became generally known, and that the coffin
+was to be seen, the crowds arriving at the Abbey became very
+great, and between twelve and six o&rsquo;clock many thousands of
+persons had been present.&nbsp; Large numbers paid a simple
+tribute to the memory of the deceased by throwing the flowers <a
+name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>they wore
+in their coat or dress on to the coffin, until, towards the close
+of the afternoon, it was completely covered with these simplest
+offerings of public affection.&rdquo;</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>The following <b>Poetical Tribute</b>, <i>in Memoriam</i>,
+was, at that sad time, contributed to the public Press, and is
+worthy of remembrance:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Artist sleeps, yet friends are here he
+gave <br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The fair dream-children that his fancy drew;<br />
+A phantom crowd still gathers at his grave,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And in each character he lives anew.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Soft winds of summer breathe along the fane, <br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The honoured sepulchre where Dickens lies; <br />
+An Emigravit write we in our pain&mdash;<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; He is not dead&mdash;the artist never dies.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The statesman wins the mantle of a peer, <br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The warrior boasts all titles of renown; <br />
+We leave one laurel only on his bier,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And England&rsquo;s love is greater than a
+crown.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;S.
+C.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>So long as the art of printing remains in Society, and the
+powers of affection, appreciation, and sympathy survive in the
+hearts of Anglo-Saxons&mdash;of the Old World or the
+New&mdash;the name and fame of <span class="smcap">Charles
+Dickens</span> will be ever held fresh and green amongst
+us.&nbsp; And, through the coming summer-dawn of
+time&mdash;amidst the destined agencies slowly evolving the
+brighter omens of the future&mdash;his genius shall remain
+co-operant.&nbsp; For, let us rest assured that &ldquo;the
+thoughts of men are widened with the process of the suns&rdquo;;
+that the wheel of time is rolling, surely for an end; and that
+all worthy labour in the cause of human progress shall become
+Immortal, as it helps to make the world purer, gentler, and more
+Christian; and hastens onwards the fulfilment of its nobler
+destiny.</p>
+<h2><a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+150</span>APPENDIX</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">&ldquo;The Pickwick Papers&rdquo;; Mrs.
+Bardell&rsquo;s House&mdash;The Spaniards&rsquo; Inn [Wellington
+Academy].&nbsp; &ldquo;Oliver Twist&rdquo;; Mr. Brownlow&rsquo;s
+Residence&mdash;Fagin and Bill Sykes.&nbsp; &ldquo;Nicholas
+Nickleby&rdquo;; The London Tavern&mdash;Mrs. Nickleby and Kate
+in Thames Street&mdash;Mortimer Knag&rsquo;s
+Library&mdash;General Agency Office&mdash;Messrs. Cheeryble
+Brothers&mdash;Residence of Mrs. Wititterly.&nbsp; &ldquo;Barnaby
+Rudge&rdquo;; The Golden Key&mdash;Cellar of Mr. Stagg&mdash;The
+Black Lion Tavern.&nbsp; &ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit&rdquo;; Anthony
+Chuzzlewit and Son&mdash;Montague Tigg, Esq., Pall Mall&mdash;Tom
+Pinch and Ruth at Islington.&nbsp; &ldquo;Dombey &amp;
+Son&rdquo;; Polly Toodles at Staggs Gardens&mdash;Miss Tox and
+Major Bagstock, Princess Place&mdash;Mrs. MacStinger and Captain
+Cuttle, No. 9 Brig Place.&nbsp; &ldquo;David Copperfield&rdquo;;
+Mr. Creakle&rsquo;s Establishment, Salem House&mdash;The Micawber
+family&mdash;Residence of Mrs. Steerforth&mdash;Doctor and Mrs.
+Strong&mdash;Mr. and Mrs. D. Copperfield&mdash;Mr.
+Traddles&rsquo;s lodgings.&nbsp; &ldquo;Bleak House&rdquo;;
+Addresses of Mr. Guppy and his Mother&mdash;Apartments of Mr.
+Jarndyce&mdash;Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed, Mount
+Pleasant&mdash;George&rsquo;s Shooting Gallery&mdash;Mr. and Mrs.
+Bagnet&mdash;Harold Skimpole and family.&nbsp; &ldquo;Little
+Dorrit&rdquo;; The House of Mrs. Clennam&mdash;Residence of Mr.
+Tite Barnacle&mdash;The Patriarchal Casby.&nbsp; &ldquo;Tale of
+Two Cities&rdquo;; Old Church of St. Pancras in the Fields.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Great Expectations&rdquo;; Private Residence of Mr.
+Jaggers&mdash;Wemmick&rsquo;s Castle, Walworth&mdash;Mr. Barley,
+<i>alias</i> old Gruff-and-Glum.&nbsp; &ldquo;Our Mutual
+Friend&rdquo;; Gaffer Hexam&rsquo;s House&mdash;The Six Jolly
+Fellowship Porters&mdash;Rogue Riderhood and his
+Daughter&mdash;Mr. Twemlow&rsquo;s Lodgings&mdash;The Veneerings
+and the Podsnaps&mdash;Boffin&rsquo;s Bower.&mdash;Mr. R.
+Wilfer&rsquo;s Residence&mdash;Establishment of Mr. Venus.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Mystery of Edwin Drood&rdquo;; The Opium Smokers&rsquo;
+Den.</p>
+<p>The various localities referred to in the foregoing <span
+class="smcap">Rambles</span> comprise all the more interesting
+and better-known points which the Reader of Dickens would most
+naturally desire to visit.&nbsp; In addition to these, however,
+there are several places mentioned in the many works <a
+name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>of
+&ldquo;The inimitable Boz&rdquo; which may be enumerated, but
+cannot for the following reasons be included in such specified
+routes:&mdash;</p>
+<p>(1) Neighbourhoods have, in course of years, altogether
+changed, making it extremely difficult (in many cases impossible)
+to specify with exactitude the former situation of old houses,
+which have long become part and parcel of the forgotten past,
+&ldquo;lost to sight&rdquo; and now only &ldquo;to memory
+dear.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>(2) The indications given in the various tales have, in some
+cases, been purposely rendered vague and uncertain; it being the
+evident aim of the author to avoid precision, and to afford no
+definite clue to the position of many places named.</p>
+<p>(3) Some of the localities specified are situated at a
+considerable distance from any main line of route, and can be
+visited only by separate excursion specially undertaken for the
+purpose.</p>
+<p>In the following addendum these uncertain or distant addresses
+are given under the headings of those books in which they
+respectively occur; in order that Ramblers, if so disposed,
+may&mdash;in the words of Mr.
+Peggotty&mdash;&ldquo;fisherate&rdquo; for themselves.</p>
+<h3>THE PICKWICK PAPERS.</h3>
+<p><b>Mrs. Bardell&rsquo;s House</b> was located in <i>Goswell
+Street</i>, certainly in a central position; for we read that, as
+Mr. Pickwick looked from his chamber-window on the world
+beneath,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Goswell Street was at his feet, Goswell
+Street was on his right hand, as far as the eye could reach,
+Goswell Street extended on his left, and the opposite side of
+Goswell Street was over the way.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The</b> &ldquo;<b>Spaniards&rsquo; Inn</b>&rdquo; at
+<i>Hampstead</i> may be remembered as the scene of the tea-party
+at which <i>Mrs. Bardell</i> and a few select friends enjoyed
+themselves, previous to her unexpected arrest and removal to the
+Fleet Prison, at the suit of <i>Messrs. Dodson and
+Fogg</i>.&nbsp; There still exists the &ldquo;Spaniards&rdquo; at
+Heath End, Hampstead Heath.</p>
+<p><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+152</span>[Visitors to Hampstead may be disposed to visit the
+site once occupied by Mr. Jones&rsquo;s School, called the
+&ldquo;Wellington Academy,&rdquo; at which Dickens received some
+two years&rsquo; technical education; being a little over
+fourteen years old when he left.&nbsp; The house is now in
+possession of the <span class="smcap">Inland Revenue
+Office</span>, at the corner of Granby Street, 247 Hampstead
+Road; part of the premises abutting on the London and
+North-Western Railway, the formation of which demolished the old
+schoolroom and playground.]</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p152.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;Spaniards,&rdquo; Hampstead Heath"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;Spaniards,&rdquo; Hampstead Heath"
+src="images/p152.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h3>OLIVER TWIST.</h3>
+<p><b>Mr. Brownlow&rsquo;s Residence</b>, in &ldquo;a quiet shady
+street near Pentonville,&rdquo; cannot he fairly localised.&nbsp;
+In the days of &ldquo;Oliver Twist,&rdquo; Mr. George Cruikshank,
+the illustrator of the book, lived at <i>Myddelton Terrace</i>,
+Pentonville; and possibly Dickens bethought himself of this
+vicinity in consequence.</p>
+<p><b>Fagin&rsquo;s House</b> in <i>Whitechapel</i> and the
+residence of <i>Bill Sykes</i> cannot, with any fairness, be
+accurately indicated.&nbsp; The latter is spoken of as being in
+&ldquo;one of a maze of mean and dirty streets, which abound in
+the close and densely populated quarter of Bethnal
+Green.&rdquo;</p>
+<h3>NICHOLAS NICKLEBY.</h3>
+<p><b>The London Tavern</b>, at which was held the Meeting in
+promotion of &ldquo;The United Metropolitan Improved Hot Muffin
+and Crumpet Baking and Punctual Delivery Company,&rdquo; once
+(many years since) occupied the site of the <span
+class="smcap">Royal Bank of Scotland</span>, 123 <i>Bishopsgate
+Street Within</i>, on the left hand entering the street from
+Cornhill.</p>
+<p><b>Mrs. Nickleby</b> and her daughter Kate lived, per favour
+of their amiable relative, in <i>Thames Street</i>.&nbsp; This
+business thoroughfare has undergone considerable reconstruction
+since the days of their tenancy, and the particular dwelling
+intended cannot be identified.&nbsp; The place is described as a
+&ldquo;large, old dingy house, the doors and windows of which
+were so bespattered with mud that it would have appeared to have
+been uninhabited for years.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+153</span><b>Mr. Mortimer Knag</b> kept a small circulating
+library &ldquo;in a by-street off Tottenham Court Road,&rdquo;
+where also lived his sister, <i>Miss Knag</i>, the presiding
+genius of Madame Mantalini&rsquo;s establishment; and we may
+remember the evening when Mrs. Nickleby and Kate were graciously
+invited to supper at this abode of literary genius.</p>
+<p><b>The General Agency Office</b>, at which Nicholas Nickleby
+obtained the address of <i>Mr. Gregsbury</i>, <i>M.P.</i>,
+Manchester Buildings, Westminster (also one of the lost
+localities of London), and where he first met <i>Madeline
+Bray</i>, has no specified direction in the book.&nbsp; There
+have been few such agencies existent in a central position in
+London.</p>
+<p><b>Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers</b> had their place of business
+in a small City square.&nbsp; &ldquo;Passing along Threadneedle
+Street, and through some lanes and passages on the right,&rdquo;
+we read that Nicholas was conducted by <i>Mr. Charles
+Cheeryble</i> to the place in occupation of the firm&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The City square has no enclosure, save the
+lamp-post in the middle, and no grass but the weeds which spring
+up around its base.&nbsp; It is a quiet, little-frequented,
+retired spot, favourable to melancholy and contemplation, and
+appointments of long waiting. . . .&nbsp; In winter-time the snow
+will linger there long after it has melted from the busy streets
+and highways.&nbsp; The summer&rsquo;s sun holds it in some
+respect, and while he darts his cheerful rays sparingly into the
+square, keeps his fiery heat and glare for noisier and less
+imposing precincts.&nbsp; It is so quiet, that you can almost
+hear the ticking of your own watch, when you stop to cool in its
+refreshing atmosphere.&nbsp; There is a distant hum&mdash;of
+coaches, not of insects&mdash;but no other sound disturbs the
+stillness of the square.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Residence of Mrs. Wititterly</b> is referred to as
+having been pleasantly situated in Cadogan Place, Sloane
+Street&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Cadogan Place is the one slight bond which
+joins two extremities; it is the connecting link between the
+aristocratic pavements of Belgrave Square and the barbarism of
+Chelsea.&nbsp; It is in Sloane Street, but not of it.&nbsp; The
+people of Cadogan Place look down upon Sloane Street, and think
+Brompton low.&nbsp; They affect fashion, too, and wonder where
+the New Road is.&nbsp; Not that they claim to be on precisely the
+same footing as the high folks of Belgrave Square and Grosvenor
+Place, but that they stand, in reference to them, rather in the
+light of those illegitimate <a name="page154"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 154</span>children of the great, who are
+content to boast of their connexions, although their connexions
+disavow them.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3>BARNABY RUDGE.</h3>
+<p>&ldquo;<b>The Golden Key</b>&rdquo;&mdash;the house of honest
+<i>Gabriel Varden</i>, the locksmith&mdash;was in Clerkenwell,
+situated in a quiet street not far from the Charter
+House&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A modest building, not very straight, not
+large, not tall, not bold-faced, with great staring windows, but
+a shy, blinking house, with a conical roof going up into a peak
+over its garret window of four small panes of glass, like a
+cocked hat on the head of an elderly gentleman with one
+eye.&nbsp; It was not built of brick, or lofty stone, but of wood
+and plaster; it was not planned with a dull and wearisome regard
+to regularity, for no one window matched the other, or seemed to
+have the slightest reference to anything beside
+itself.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This was its description one hundred years ago, and its exact
+whereabouts cannot now be ascertained.&nbsp; There are some old
+plaster-fronted houses, evidently belonging to the last century,
+still to be found in <i>Albemarle Street</i>, near <i>St.
+John&rsquo;s Square</i>, but none of these fairly correspond with
+the description of &ldquo;The Golden Key.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>The Cellar of Mr. Stagg</b> was situated in
+<i>Barbican</i>.&nbsp; We read that its position was &ldquo;in
+one of the narrowest of the narrow streets which diverge from
+that centre, in a blind court or yard, profoundly dark, unpaved,
+and reeking with stagnant odours.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<b>The Black Lion</b>&rdquo; <b>Tavern</b> can only be
+identified as being situated in Whitechapel.&nbsp; It was a
+favourite resort of <i>Mr. John Willett</i>, landlord of the
+&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Maypole Inn</span>&rdquo; at
+<i>Chigwell</i>, when he came to town; and we may remember it as
+the scene of <i>Dolly Varden&rsquo;s</i> satisfactory interview
+with her lover Joe, after his return from &ldquo;the
+Salwanners.&rdquo;</p>
+<h3>MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT.</h3>
+<p><b>Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son</b> had their place of business
+near <i>Aldersgate Street</i>.&nbsp; Their dreary residence was
+the bridal home of Mercy Pecksniff&mdash;married by Jonas
+Chuzzlewit&mdash;and we may recollect her reception at this
+establishment by the worthy <i>Sairey Gamp</i>.&nbsp; To this
+house Jonas <a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+155</span>returned after the murder of Montague Tigg, and was
+here arrested by his relative <i>Chevy Slyme</i>, in the presence
+of his uncle and Mark Tapley.&nbsp; Its situation is described as
+being in</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A very narrow street, somewhere behind the
+Post Office, where every house was in the brightest summer
+morning very gloomy; and where light porters watered the
+pavement, each before his own employer&rsquo;s premises, in
+fantastic patterns in the dog-days; and where spruce gentlemen,
+with their hands in the pockets of symmetrical trousers, were
+always to be seen in warm weather contemplating their undeniable
+boots in dusty warehouse doorways, which appeared to be the
+hardest work they did, except now and then carrying pens behind
+their ears.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Montague Tigg</b>, <b>Esq.</b>, the Chairman of the
+<i>Anglo-Bengalee Insurance Company</i>, lived in luxurious
+chambers in <i>Pall Mall</i>; and we may remember the morning
+when Jonas Chuzzlewit called at the residence of his chief, and
+was disagreeably surprised to find his friend in full possession
+of his secret history&mdash;with <i>Mr. Nadgett</i> in
+attendance.</p>
+<p><b>Tom Pinch</b> and his sister <i>Ruth</i> lodged at
+&ldquo;Merry Islington,&rdquo; &ldquo;in a singular little
+old-fashioned house, up a blind street,&rdquo; where they were
+accommodated with two small bedrooms and a triangular parlour,
+the householder being the inscrutable <i>Mr. Nadgett</i>.&nbsp;
+In &ldquo;Martin Chuzzlewit&rdquo; are contained many pleasant
+episodes associated with these modest apartments; where, as we
+all know, little Ruth made her first culinary experiment, and was
+pleasantly surprised the next morning to find the merry present
+of a cookery-book awaiting her in the parlour (sent by John
+Westlock), with the beefsteak pudding leaf turned down and
+blotted out.</p>
+<h3>DOMBEY AND SON.</h3>
+<p><b>Polly Toodles</b> (otherwise Richards) lived with her
+husband and her &ldquo;apple-faced&rdquo; family, at
+<i>Stagg&rsquo;s Gardens</i>, <i>Camden Town</i>, at the time
+when the London and North-Western Railway was in course of
+construction&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;As yet the neighbourhood was shy to own the
+railroad.&nbsp; One or two bold speculators had projected
+streets, and one had built a little, <a name="page156"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 156</span>but had stopped among the mud and
+ashes to consider further of it.&nbsp; A bran new tavern,
+redolent of fresh mortar and size, and fronting nothing at all,
+had taken for its sign the &lsquo;Railway Arms;&rsquo; but that
+might be rash enterprise&mdash;and then it hoped to sell drink to
+the workmen.&nbsp; So the Excavators&rsquo; house of Call had
+sprung up from a beer-shop, and the old-established Ham and Beef
+Shop had become the Railway Eating House, with a roast leg of
+pork daily, through interested motives of a similar immediate and
+popular description.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In a later chapter of &ldquo;Dombey&rdquo; we read of
+Stagg&rsquo;s Gardens having vanished from the earth&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Where the old rotten summer-houses once had
+stood, palaces now reared their heads, and granite columns of
+gigantic girth opened a vista to the railway world beyond.&nbsp;
+The miserable waste ground, where the refuse matter had been
+heaped of yore, was swallowed up and gone, and in its frowzy
+stead were tiers of warehouses, crammed with rich goods and
+costly merchandise.&nbsp; The old bye-streets now swarmed with
+passengers and vehicles of every kind: the new streets that had
+stopped disheartened in the mud and waggon-ruts, formed towns
+within themselves, originating wholesome comforts and
+conveniences belonging to themselves, and never tried nor thought
+of until they sprung into existence.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Miss Lucretia Tox</b> had apartments at <i>Princess
+Place</i>, an address not included in the London Directory; and
+<i>Major Bagstock</i> also had chambers in the immediate
+vicinity, a genteel but somewhat inconvenient
+neighbourhood.&nbsp; Miss Tox&rsquo;s residence is described
+as</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A dark little house, that had been squeezed
+at some remote period of English history into a fashionable
+neighbourhood at the west end of the town, where it stood in the
+shade, like a poor relation of the great street round the corner,
+coldly looked down upon by mighty mansions.&nbsp; It was not
+exactly in a court, and it was not exactly in a yard, but it was
+in the dullest of No-Thoroughfares, rendered anxious and haggard
+by double knocks. . . .&nbsp; There is a smack of stabling in the
+air of Princess Place, and Miss Tox&rsquo;s bedroom (which was at
+the back) commanded a vista of mews, where hostlers, at whatever
+sort of work engaged, were continually accompanying themselves
+with effervescent noises, and where the most domestic and
+confidential garments of coachmen and their wives and families
+usually hung like Macbeth&rsquo;s banners on the outer
+walls.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mrs. MacStinger</b> presided at <i>No. 9 Brig Place</i>,
+finding accommodation for <i>Captain Cuttle</i> as her first
+floor lodger, <a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+157</span>previous to the time of his hurried and secret removal
+to the quarters of <i>The Wooden Midshipman</i>.&nbsp; We read
+that the house was situated</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;On the brink of a little canal near the
+India Docks, where the air was perfumed with chips, and all other
+trades were swallowed up in mast, oar, and block making, and boat
+building.&nbsp; Then the ground grew marshy and unsettled.&nbsp;
+Then there was nothing to be smelt but rum and sugar.&nbsp; Then
+Captain Cuttle&rsquo;s lodgings, at once a first floor and a top
+storey, in Brig Place, were close before you.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3>DAVID COPPERFIELD.</h3>
+<p><b>Mr. Creakle&rsquo;s</b> educational establishment,
+&ldquo;<i>Salem House</i>,&rdquo; was, we are told, &ldquo;down
+by Blackheath.&rdquo;&nbsp; A large, dull house, standing away
+from the main road among some dark trees, and surrounded by a
+high wall.&nbsp; The character of Mr. Creakle seems to have been
+drawn from life; being, in fact, a portrait of the proprietor of
+the &ldquo;<i>Wellington Academy</i>,&rdquo; Hampstead Road,
+previously referred to.&nbsp; <i>Dr. Danson</i>, an old
+schoolfellow of Dickens, writing to Mr. Forster, states that this
+&ldquo;Mr. Jones was a Welshman, a most ignorant fellow, and a
+mere tyrant, whose chief employment was to scourge the
+boys.&rdquo;&nbsp; Also, Mr. Forster, speaking of the school,
+says, &ldquo;it had supplied some of the lighter traits of Salem
+House for &lsquo;Copperfield.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Mr. Micawber</b> lived in Windsor Terrace, City Road, at
+the time he first received young David Copperfield as a lodger,
+and previous to the crisis in his pecuniary affairs which removed
+him to <span class="smcap">King&rsquo;s Bench Prison</span> in
+the Borough.</p>
+<p>We also read, later in the book, of the Micawbers as located
+in a little street near <i>The Veterinary College</i>, <i>Camden
+Town</i>, what time <i>Mr. Traddles</i> was their lodger; and we
+may remember how the astute Mr. Micawber took advantage of the
+circumstance, by obtaining the friendly signature of his inmate
+as security, in the matter of two bills &ldquo;not provided
+for.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Mrs. Steerforth</b> resided in &ldquo;an old brick house at
+<i>Highgate</i>, on the summit of the hill; a genteel,
+old-fashioned house, very quiet, and very orderly,&rdquo; from
+which position a <a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+158</span>comprehensive view was obtainable of &ldquo;all London
+lying in the distance like a great vapour, with here and there
+some lights twinkling through it.&rdquo;&nbsp; In connection with
+this house we may recall the characters of <i>Rosa Dartle</i> and
+the respectable serving-man <i>Littimer</i>.</p>
+<p><b>Doctor and Mrs. Strong</b> also lived in a cottage at
+Highgate after their removal from Canterbury; and <i>Mr. and Mrs.
+David Copperfield</i> resided in the same neighbourhood, with
+<i>Betsy Trotwood</i> established in a convenient cottage near at
+hand.</p>
+<p><b>Mr. Traddles</b>, in his bachelor days, had lodgings behind
+the parapet of a house in <i>Castle Street</i>,
+<i>Holborn</i>.&nbsp; This thoroughfare has now changed its name,
+and is known as <span class="smcap">Furnival Street</span>.&nbsp;
+It may be found on the south side of Holborn, and west of Fetter
+Lane, leading to Cursitor Street.</p>
+<h3>BLEAK HOUSE.</h3>
+<p><b>Mr. Guppy</b> mentioned his address as 87 <i>Penton
+Place</i>, <i>Pentonville</i>; but the London Directory does not
+now include the number specified.&nbsp; The residence of <i>Mrs.
+Guppy</i>, his mother, is stated as having been 302 <i>Old Street
+Road</i>; previous to the time when a house was taken (by mother
+and son) in <i>Walcot Square</i>, <i>Lambeth</i>, on the south
+side of the Thames, and Mr. Guppy started on his independent
+professional career.</p>
+<p><b>Mr. Jarndyce</b> once sojourned in London, &ldquo;at a
+cheerful lodging near <i>Oxford Street</i>, over an
+upholsterer&rsquo;s shop,&rdquo; at which also Ada Clare and
+Esther Summerson were accommodated.</p>
+<p><b>Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed</b> vegetated, with their
+grandchildren, &ldquo;in a rather ill-favoured and ill-savoured
+neighbourhood, though one of its rising grounds bears the name of
+<i>Mount Pleasant</i>.&rdquo;&nbsp; This beatific neighbourhood
+will be found north of <i>Clerkenwell Road</i> (approached by
+<i>Laystall Street</i>), in the neighbourhood of the <span
+class="smcap">Middlesex House of Correction</span>.</p>
+<p><b>George&rsquo;s Shooting Gallery</b> is memorable as the
+place <a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+159</span>where <i>Gridley</i>&mdash;&ldquo;the man from
+Shropshire&rdquo;&mdash;died; where also <i>Poor Jo</i>, clinging
+to the spars of the Lord&rsquo;s Prayer, drifted out upon the
+unknown sea.&nbsp; It is described as &ldquo;a great brick
+building, composed of bare walls, floors, roof-rafters, and
+skylights; on the front of which was painted
+&lsquo;George&rsquo;s Shooting Gallery.&rsquo;&rdquo;&nbsp; Its
+location is given as being up a court and a long whitewashed
+passage, in</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;That curious region lying about the
+Haymarket and Leicester Square, which is a centre of attraction
+to indifferent foreign hotels and indifferent foreigners, racket
+courts, fighting men, swordsmen, foot-guards, old china,
+gambling-houses, exhibitions, and a large medley of shabbiness
+and shrinking out of sight.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. Bagnet</b> and his &ldquo;old girl&rdquo; kept house
+and home on the Surrey side of the river; but no more precise
+indication of their whereabouts is given than is contained in the
+following reference:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;By Blackfriars&rsquo; Bridge, and
+Blackfriars&rsquo; Road, Mr. George sedately marches to a street
+of little shops lying somewhere in that ganglion of roads from
+Kent and Surrey, and of streets from the bridges of London,
+centreing in the far-famed Elephant who has lost his
+castle.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Town House of Sir Leicester</b> and Lady Dedlock was
+situated in a dull aristocratic street in the western district of
+London,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Where the two long rows of houses stare at
+each other with that severity, that half-a-dozen of its greatest
+mansions seem to have been slowly stared into stone, rather than
+originally built in that material.&nbsp; It is a street of such
+dismal grandeur, so determined not to condescend to liveliness,
+that the doors and windows hold a gloomy state of their own in
+black paint and dust, and the echoing mews behind have a dry and
+massive appearance, as if they were reserved to stable the stone
+chargers of noble statues.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Harold Skimpole</b> and family had their residence in the
+<i>Polygon</i>, near to the <span class="smcap">Euston
+Terminus</span> (on the east side), in the centre of <i>Clarendon
+Square</i>, <i>Somers Town</i>.&nbsp; The house is described as
+being sadly in want of repair&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Two or three of the area railings were
+gone; the water-butt was broken; the knocker was loose; the
+bell-handle had been pulled off a long time, to judge from the
+rusty state of the wire; and dirty footprints on the steps were
+the only signs of its being inhabited.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+160</span>LITTLE DORRIT.</h3>
+<p><b>The House of Mrs. Clennam</b> was situated not far from the
+river, in the neighbourhood of <i>Upper Thames Street</i>.&nbsp;
+We read that Arthur Clennam, on his arrival in London,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Crossed by Saint Paul&rsquo;s and went
+down, at a long angle, almost to the water&rsquo;s edge, through
+some of the crooked and descending streets which lie (and lay
+more crookedly and closely then) between the river and Cheapside
+. . . passing silent warehouses and wharves, and here and there a
+narrow alley leading to the river, where a wretched little bill,
+&lsquo;Found Drowned,&rsquo; was weeping on the wet wall; he came
+at last to the house he sought.&nbsp; An old brick house, so
+dingy as to be all but black, standing by itself within a
+gateway.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. Tite Barnacle</b> had his residence in <i>Mews
+Street</i>, <i>Grosvenor Square</i>&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;It was a hideous little street of dead
+wall, stables, and dunghills, with lofts over coach-houses
+inhabited by coachmen&rsquo;s families, who had a passion for
+drying clothes, and decorating their window-sills with miniature
+turnpike-gates.&nbsp; The principal chimney-sweep of that
+fashionable quarter lived at the blind end of Mews Street. . .
+.&nbsp; Yet there were two or three small airless houses at the
+entrance end of Mews Street, which went at enormous rents on
+account of their being abject hangers-on to a fashionable
+situation; and whenever one of these fearful little coops was to
+be let (which seldom happened, for they were in great request),
+the house agent advertised it as a gentlemanly residence in the
+most aristocratic part of the town, inhabited solely by the
+&eacute;lite of the beau monde.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>The Patriarchal Casby</b>, with his daughter&mdash;the
+irrepressible <i>Flora</i>&mdash;and <i>Mr. F.&rsquo;s
+Aunt</i>,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Lived in a street in the Gray&rsquo;s Inn
+Road, which had set off from that thoroughfare with the intention
+of running at one heat down into the valley, and up again to the
+top of Pentonville Hill; but which had run itself out of breath
+in twenty yards, and had stood still ever since.&nbsp; There is
+no such place in that part now; but it remained there for many
+years, looking with a baulked countenance at the wilderness
+patched with unfruitful gardens, and pimpled with eruptive
+summer-houses, that it had meant to run over in no
+time.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3>TALE OF TWO CITIES.</h3>
+<p>In this Tale we read of the funeral of <i>Cly</i>, the Old
+Bailey Informer; the interment taking place in the burial-ground
+attached to the ancient church of <a name="page161"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 161</span><b>St. Pancras in the
+Fields</b>.&nbsp; This edifice still exists in <span
+class="smcap">Pancras Road</span> (east side, opposite
+<i>Goldington Crescent</i>), which leads from King&rsquo;s Cross,
+northward, to Kentish Town.&nbsp; There is a church of the same
+name to be found in the <span class="smcap">Euston
+Road</span>&mdash;east of <i>Upper Woburn Place</i>, but this is
+altogether another and more modern structure than the one above
+referred to.&nbsp; A century since, at the time of the funeral
+described, the name of this locality was literally correct; the
+church being situated in the outlying fields of the suburban
+village of <span class="smcap">Pancras</span>.&nbsp; We may here
+recollect the fishing expedition undertaken by <i>Mr.
+Cruncher</i> and his two companions, on the night following the
+funeral; when young <i>Jerry</i> quietly followed his
+&ldquo;honoured parent,&rdquo; and assured himself of the nature
+of his father&rsquo;s secret avocation.</p>
+<h3>GREAT EXPECTATIONS.</h3>
+<p><b>Mr. Jaggers</b>, the Old Bailey lawyer, had his private
+residence on the south side of <i>Gerrard Street</i>,
+<i>Soho</i>, where he lived in solitary state, with his eccentric
+housekeeper, the mother of Estella: &ldquo;Rather a stately house
+of its kind, but dolefully in want of painting, and with dirty
+windows.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Wemmick&rsquo;s Castle</b> at <i>Walworth</i> is altogether
+a place of the past; Walworth being now one of the most populous
+and crowded of metropolitan districts.&nbsp; We read that in
+Pip&rsquo;s time</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;It appeared to be a collection of black
+lanes, ditches, and little gardens, and to present the aspect of
+a rather dull retirement.&nbsp; Wemmick&rsquo;s house was a
+little wooden cottage in the midst of plots of garden, and the
+top of it was cut out and painted like a battery mounted with
+guns.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Mr. Barley</b>, <i>alias Old Gruff-and-Glum</i>, lived at
+<i>Mill Pond Bank</i>, by Chinks&rsquo;s Basin and the Old Green
+Copper Rope-walk.&nbsp; Pip says the place was anything but easy
+to find.&nbsp; Losing himself among shipbuilders&rsquo; and
+shipbreakers&rsquo; yards, he continues the description of his
+search as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;After several times falling short of my
+destination, and as often overshooting it, I came unexpectedly
+round a corner, upon Mill Pond <a name="page162"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 162</span>Bank.&nbsp; It was a fresh kind of
+place, all circumstances considered, where the wind from the
+river had room to turn itself round; and there were two or three
+trees in it, and there was the stump of a ruined windmill, and
+there was the Old Green Copper Rope-walk&mdash;whose long and
+narrow vista I could trace in the moonlight, along a series of
+wooden frames set in the ground, that looked like superannuated
+haymaking rakes, which had grown old and lost most of their
+teeth.&nbsp; Selecting from the few queer houses upon Mill Pond
+Bank, a house with a wooden front and three storeys of bow-window
+(not bay-window, which is another thing), I looked at the plate
+upon the door, and read there Mrs. Whimple . . . the name I
+wanted.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3>OUR MUTUAL FRIEND.</h3>
+<p><b>The House of Gaffer Hexam</b>, the humble home of <i>Lizzie
+Hexam</i> and her brother, was situated somewhere in the district
+of <i>Limehouse</i>, near the river.&nbsp; In a description given
+of the route by which Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn approached
+this locality, we read&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Down by the Monument, and by the Tower, and
+by the Docks; down by Ratcliffe, and by Rotherhithe. . . .&nbsp;
+In and out among vessels that seemed to have got ashore, and
+houses that seemed to have got afloat&mdash;among bowsprits
+staring into windows, and windows staring into ships&mdash;the
+wheels rolled on, until they stopped at a dark corner,
+river-washed and otherwise not washed at all, where the boy
+alighted and opened the door.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>&ldquo;<b>The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters</b>&rdquo; was
+located in this same vicinity, overlooking the river.&nbsp; A
+waterside public-house, kept by <i>Miss Abbey Patterson</i>, who
+enforced a certain standard of respectability among her numerous
+clients, and conducted the house with a strict regard to
+discipline and punctuality&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Externally, it was a narrow, lop-sided,
+wooden jumble of corpulent windows heaped one upon another, as
+you might heap as many toppling oranges, with a crazy wooden
+verandah impending over the water; indeed, the whole house,
+inclusive of the complaining flagstaff on the roof, impended over
+the water, but seemed to have got into the condition of a
+faint-hearted diver who has paused so long on the brink that he
+will never go in at all. . . .&nbsp; The back of the
+establishment, though the chief entrance, was there so contracted
+that it merely represented, in its connection with the front, the
+handle of a flat iron set upright on its broadest end.&nbsp; This
+handle stood at the bottom of a wilderness of court and alley;
+which wilderness pressed so hard and <a name="page163"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 163</span>close upon the &lsquo;Six Jolly
+Fellowship Porters,&rsquo; as to leave the hostelry not an inch
+of ground beyond its door.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><b>Rogue Riderhood</b> and his daughter <i>Pleasant</i> traded
+at <i>Limehouse Hole</i>, in the same district as above, where
+they kept &ldquo;a leaving shop&rdquo; for sailors; advancing
+small sums of money on the portable property of seafaring
+customers.&nbsp; Mr. Riderhood did not stand well in the esteem
+of the neighbourhood, which &ldquo;was rather shy in reference to
+the honour of cultivating&rdquo; his acquaintance, his daughter
+being the more respectable and respected member of the firm.</p>
+<p>Mr. Twemlow, &ldquo;an innocent piece of dinner
+furniture,&rdquo; often in request in certain West-end circles of
+society, lodged in <i>Duke Street</i>, <i>St. James&rsquo;s</i>,
+&ldquo;over a livery stable-yard.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>The Location of the Veneering Family</b> is described as
+&ldquo;a bran-new house, in a bran-new quarter,&rdquo; designated
+by the appellation of &ldquo;<i>Stucconia</i>;&rdquo; while their
+intimate friends <b>The Podsnaps</b> flourished &ldquo;in a shady
+angle adjoining <i>Portman Square</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Boffin&rsquo;s Bower</b>, the home in which we are first
+introduced to the Golden Dustman and his wife, was to be found
+&ldquo;about a mile and a quarter up Maiden Lane, Battle
+Bridge,&rdquo; in the close vicinity of the Mounds of Dust for
+which Mr. Harman was the contractor.</p>
+<p><b>The Location of Mr. R. Wilfer</b> and family was in the
+northern district of <i>Holloway</i>, beyond Battle Bridge,
+divided therefrom by &ldquo;a tract of suburban Sahara, where
+tiles and bricks were burnt, bones were boiled, carpets were
+beat, rubbish was shot, dogs were fought, and dust was heaped by
+contractors.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>The Establishment of Mr. Venus</b> was in
+<i>Clerkenwell</i>, among</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The poorer shops of small retail traders in
+commodities to eat and drink and keep folks warm, and of Italian
+frame-makers, and of barbers, and of brokers, and of dealers in
+dogs and singing-birds.&nbsp; From these, in a narrow and a dirty
+street devoted to such callings, Mr. Wegg selects one dark
+shop-window with a tallow candle dimly burning in it, surrounded
+by a muddle of objects vaguely resembling pieces <a
+name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>of leather
+and dry stick, but among which nothing is resolvable into
+anything distinct, save the candle itself in its old tin
+candlestick, and two preserved frogs fighting a small-sword
+duel.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h3>THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD.</h3>
+<p>In the first chapter of the tale we are introduced to
+&ldquo;the meanest and closest of small rooms,&rdquo; where,
+&ldquo;through the ragged window-curtain, the light of early day
+steals in from a miserable court.&rdquo;&nbsp; A man</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Lies dressed, across a large unseemly bed,
+upon a bedstead that has indeed given way under the weight upon
+it.&nbsp; Lying, also dressed, and also across the bed, not
+longwise, are a Chinaman, a Lascar, and a haggard woman.&nbsp;
+The two first are in a sleep or stupor; the last is blowing at a
+kind of pipe, to kindle it.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This <b>Opium Smokers&rsquo; Den</b> had its location in an
+eastern district of London, probably the <i>Shadwell</i>
+neighbourhood of the <span class="smcap">London Docks</span>, but
+no precise indication of its whereabouts is given in the
+tale.&nbsp; We read of John Jasper starting from his hotel in
+<i>Falcon Square</i>: &ldquo;Eastward, and still eastward,
+through the stale streets, he takes his way, until he reaches his
+destination&mdash;a miserable court, specially miserable among
+many such.&rdquo;</p>
+<h3>THE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM</h3>
+<p>is readily attainable from <i>Charing Cross</i> (or any other)
+station of the <i>District Metropolitan Railway</i>.&nbsp;
+Entrance in <i>Cromwell Road</i>, five minutes&rsquo; walk, on
+the north side, from South Kensington Station.</p>
+<p><b>The Forster Collection</b>&mdash;on the first
+floor&mdash;in this museum contains several of the earlier <span
+class="smcap">Letters</span> written by Dickens to Forster, and
+the pen-and-ink sketch by <i>Maclise</i>, representing the
+&ldquo;Apotheosis of &lsquo;Grip,&rsquo;&rdquo; the celebrated
+Raven, who departed this life at No. 1 Devonshire Terrace, March
+12th, 1841.&nbsp; There are also here exhibited <b>The
+Manuscripts</b> of the principal <span class="smcap">Works of
+Dickens</span>, together with a <i>Proof Copy</i> of &ldquo;David
+Copperfield,&rdquo; showing the corrections of the Author.&nbsp;
+Most of these lie <a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+165</span>opened, each at its first page; and it is interesting
+to observe the careful interlineations and alterations with which
+the various original copies were amended.&nbsp; In the case of
+&ldquo;The Mystery of Edwin Drood,&rdquo; the sorrowful memento
+of its final page is exposed to view, as being the last sheet
+written by the &ldquo;vanished hand&rdquo; of our much loved and
+faithful friend,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/sig.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Charles Dickens Signature"
+title=
+"Charles Dickens Signature"
+src="images/sig.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+167</span>INDEX</h2>
+<p><span class="smcap">Accademy</span>, Turveydrop&rsquo;s, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>Adam Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>Adelphi Arches, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>Albany, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Aldgate High Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Pump, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Almshouses, Watts&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Apartments of Captain Cuttle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Major Bagstock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Miss Tox, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mrs. Gamp, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Richard Carstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; The Kenwigses, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tom Pinch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Apotheosis of &ldquo;Grip,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Artful Dodger at Court, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dodger at Work, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+<p>Astley&rsquo;s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Bagnet</span>, Mr., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Bailey, Junior, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Bank, Child&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; of England, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tellson&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Bardell v. Pickwick, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Bardell&rsquo;s House, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+<p>Barley, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Barnacle, Mr. Tite, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+<p>Barnard&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+<p>Barnett&rsquo;s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>Bedfordbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+<p>Bell Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Belle Sauvage Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>Bethlehem Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Bevis Marks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span> <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Billickin, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+<p>Bishop&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Black Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Bleeding Hart Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Blinder, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Bloomsbury Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Blue Boar,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Blunderstone Rookery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>Blundeston, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>Boarding House, Todgers&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Bob Sawyer&rsquo;s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
+<p>Boffin, House of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Boffin&rsquo;s Bower, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Boot Tavern, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<p>Borough, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Bouverie Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Bow Street Police Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>Bradbury &amp; Evans, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Bradley Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Bream&rsquo;s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Broad Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>Brook Street, Grosvenor Sq, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>Brownlow&rsquo;s Residence, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>Buckhurst Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+<p>Buckingham Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>Buffet, Spiers and Pond&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<p>Bull and Anchor Tavern, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Bull Inn Yard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<p>Burial Ground, Nemo&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p>Butler&rsquo;s Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<h3>CANTERBURY</h3>
+<p><span class="smcap">Augustinian</span> Monastery, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>Burgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>Butcher, The obnoxious, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+<p>Canterbury, City of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>Castle Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>Christchurch Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>Doctor Strong, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>Faversham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>Fleur de Lys Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+<p>George and Dragon Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+<p>Home of Agnes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mr. Larkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>Lady&rsquo;s Green, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+168</span>Larkins, The eldest Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+<p>London Coach Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+<p>London, Chatham &amp; Dover Station <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page103">103</a></span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+<p>Margaret Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+<p>Markleham, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Mercery Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+<p>Micawbers, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>Monastery Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>North Lane (No. 65), <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Palace Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen&rsquo;s Head Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>Residence of Dr. Strong, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mr. Wickfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Uriah Heep, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Alphege, Church of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dunstan Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Margaret&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+<p>Sittingbourne, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>Teynsham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>Watling Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Carlisle</span> House, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>Carnaby Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>Carstone&rsquo;s Apartments, Richard, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>Casby, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+<p>Castle, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Chadband, Rev. Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Chambers of Copperfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mr. Fledgby, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mr. Grewgious, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mr. Tartar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; John Westlock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<p>Chandos Street (No. 3), <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+<p>Chapman &amp; Hall, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+<p>Charing Cross Terminus, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</p>
+<p>Charles Darnay&rsquo;s Trial, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Chatham</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Clover Lane Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Fort Pitt, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Military Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Providence Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Railway Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Recreation Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Rome Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; The Brook, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>Cheeryble Bros., Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+<p>Chester, Edward, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Chevy Slyme, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Chichester Rents, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Chicksey, Veneering, &amp; Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Chigwell, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; King&rsquo;s Head, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Children&rsquo;s Hospital, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>Child&rsquo;s Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Chivery&rsquo;s Shop, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<p>Christchurch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Church, Dulwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Emmanuel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page82">82</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Alphege, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Dunstan&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. George&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. John the Evangelist&rsquo;s, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Mary-le-Bow, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Pancras in the Fields, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>Chuzzlewit &amp; Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Clare Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+<p>Claridge&rsquo;s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>Clennam&rsquo;s House, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+<p>Clerkenwell Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+<p>Clifford&rsquo;s Inn Passage, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Cloisterham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>Coavinses&rsquo; Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Cobham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Cook&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Cooling Village, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Copperfield&rsquo;s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>Cornhill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Court of Chancery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Covent Garden Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>Craven Street (No. 39), <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>Creakle&rsquo;s Establishment, Mr., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+<p>Crisparkle, Rev. S., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Cross Keys Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Crown Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>Crozier Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Curiosity Shop, The Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>Cursitor Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><i>Daily News</i> Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Dean&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Dedlock Mansion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Devonshire House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+<p>Dickens, Amateur Acting of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Death of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dining-House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+169</span>Dickens at Lamert&rsquo;s Factory, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Letters of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Manuscripts of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Memorial Tablet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Readings of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Residences of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; at School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tomb of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+<p>Dickens&rsquo;s Establishment, Mrs., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+<p>Doctor Slammer, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Doctors&rsquo; Commons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Dodson &amp; Fogg, Messrs , <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Dolls&rsquo; Dressmaker, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>Dombey &amp; Son&rsquo;s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Dombey&rsquo;s Residence, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Dorking, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; &ldquo;Marquis of Granby&rdquo;, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; &ldquo;White Horse,&rdquo; <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Rev. Mr. Stiggins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Downfall of, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>Doubledick, Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Doughty Street (No. 48), <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>DOVER</h3>
+<p><span class="smcap">Copperfield&rsquo;s</span> Resting Place,
+<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Dover Priory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span>-<span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Dover, Town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s Head Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Market Place Corner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Miss Manetty and Mr. Lorry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Priory Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Residence of Miss Trotwood, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Stanley Mount, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Staplehurst Disaster, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Doyce &amp; Clennam&rsquo;s Factory, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Dulwich Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+<p>Durdles, A night with, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Durdles&rsquo;s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Edwin</span> Drood and Rosa, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Ely Place, Holborn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>Emigration of Peggotty, &amp;c., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Emmanuel Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page82">82</a></span></p>
+<p>Escort in London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<p>Establishment of Mr. Waterbrook, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>Eugene Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Exchequer Coffee House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>Execution of the Mannings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Fagin&rsquo;s</span> House, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+<p>Falcon Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>Falstaff Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>Fang, Mr. J. P., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Feast of the Three Hobgoblins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Feenix Town House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>Field Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Finches of the Grove, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>First Avenue Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Readings, Dickens&rsquo;s, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p>Fish Street Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Fleet Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Flite, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Folly Ditch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Forest House, Chigwell, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<p>Forge, Joe Gargery&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>Forster Collection, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Forster&rsquo;s House, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+<p>Foundling Hospital, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+<p>Fountain Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Fox-under-the-Hill, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span></p>
+<p>Freeman&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Funeral of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+<p>Furnival&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Gadshill</span> Place, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>Gaffer Hexam&rsquo;s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Gamp, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+<p>Garden Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Gargery&rsquo;s Forge, Joe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Gate of the Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>General Agency Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+<p>George and Vulture Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>George the IVth, The Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+<p>George Yard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>George&rsquo;s Shooting-Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Giles, Rev. William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>Golden Cross Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Key, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+<p>Goldsmith&rsquo;s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Gordon, Lord George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Riots, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+<p>Goswell Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+<p>Gower Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+<p>Gravesend, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Gray&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>Great
+Ormond Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Yarmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Angel Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Coaches, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Home of Little Emily, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Star Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Storm at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+<p>Green Dragon Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Greenwich Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Gridley&rsquo;s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Grip, The Raven, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Apotheosis of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Grocers&rsquo; Hall Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Guild of Literature and Art, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Guildhall, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Guppy, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Guppy&rsquo;s Address, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Hampstead</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+<p>Hanging Sword Alley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Harley Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<p>Hatchett&rsquo;s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Hatton Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>Hawdon, Capt., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>HENLEY</h3>
+<p>A <span class="smcap">Cry</span> for Help, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Anchor Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Aston, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Attack by Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Betty Higden, Death of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Burial of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Death of Riderhood and Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Eastern Tow Path, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Eugene Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Fawley Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Greenlands, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Harmon&rsquo;s Reflections, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+<p>Henley Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Hurley Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Kensal Green Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+<p>Lizzie Hexam, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Lock House, Hurley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Marriage of Eugene and Lizzie, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>Marsh Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Medmenham Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Micawber&rsquo;s Quotation, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+<p>Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Railway Station, Henley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Red Lion Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Lawn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>Rescue of Eugene, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>Rogue Riderhood, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Stoke Pogis Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+<p>Tow Path, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Waterloo Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Her Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Hexam&rsquo;s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Holborn Restaurant, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Viaduct, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+<p>Hope Brothers, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>Horndean, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>Horse and Groom, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Guards, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Horsemonger Lane Gaol, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<p>Horseshoe Restaurant, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>Hospital, Bethlehem, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Children&rsquo;s, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Foundling, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+<p>Hotel, Adelphi, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Barnett&rsquo;s Private, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cecil, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Claridge&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Falcon, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; First Avenue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Golden Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hatchett&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hummums, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tavistock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Woods&rsquo;, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>House of Sampson Brass, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Sol Gills, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p><i>Household Words Office</i>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>Hugh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Hungerford Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Ipswich</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Residence of Mr. Nupkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Clement&rsquo;s Church, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; White Horse Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Jacob&rsquo;s</span> Island, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Jaggers, Offices of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Residence of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Jarndyce, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Jarndyce v. Jarndyce, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+171</span>Jellyby&rsquo;s Residence, Mrs., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>Jenny Wren, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>Jerry Cruncher&rsquo;s Apartments, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cruncher&rsquo;s Employment, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Jingle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page2">2</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
+<p>Job Trotter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>John Jasper, Apartments of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+<p>Johnny&rsquo;s Will, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+<p>Julius Handford, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Kenge</span> &amp; Carboy&rsquo;s Offices,
+<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Kenwigs Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s Bench Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; Chigwell, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s Head Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Kingsgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+<p>Knag, Mr. and Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+<p>Krook&rsquo;s Warehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Laing</span>, Mr. J. P., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Lambeth Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>Lamert&rsquo;s Blacking Factory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Warehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>Langdale&rsquo;s Distillery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Lant Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
+<p>Leadenhall Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>Leather Bottle Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Letters of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Lewsome&rsquo;s Illness, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Lightwood&rsquo;s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Old Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Lirriper&rsquo;s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>Little Britain, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>London Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Coffee Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Stereoscopic Company, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+<p>Lucretia Tox, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Macstinger</span>, Mrs., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>Magpie and Stump, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+<p>Manette, Doctor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>Mansfield, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<p>Mansion House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Mantalini, Madame, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Manuscripts of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Mark Tapley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Market, Covent Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Farringdon, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Fleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hungerford, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>Marshall Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>Marshalsea Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Martha&rsquo;s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Suicidal attempt, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>Martin Chuzzlewit, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Maypole Inn,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Memorial Hall, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Merdle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<p>Micawber, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+<p>Mill Bank Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Mincing Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Minor Canon Corner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Minories, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Monk&rsquo;s Vineyard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Mowcher, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Nadgett</span>, Mr., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Nancy and Rose Maylie, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Neckett&rsquo;s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Nemo&rsquo;s Burial, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Newgate Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Burning of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>Newman Noggs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>Newman&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Nickleby&rsquo;s Office, Ralph, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+<p>Noah Claypole, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Norie &amp; Wilson, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>Nuns&rsquo; House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Obelisk</span>, St. George&rsquo;s, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Office of Chicksey &amp; Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Daily News, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dodson &amp; Fogg, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dombey &amp; Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Jaggers, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Kenge &amp; Carboy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Lightwood &amp; Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Perker, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Pubsey &amp; Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Ralph Nickleby, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Spenlow &amp; Jorkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Old Bailey, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Curiosity Shop, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gruff-and-Glum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Palace Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Old
+Ship Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Olde Cheshire Cheese, Ye, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Oliver Twist at Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; enlightened, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; entering London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>Opium Smokers&rsquo; Den, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>Osborn&rsquo;s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Our House,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Paper</span> Buildings, Temple, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Park, St. James&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Parliament Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>Peabody&rsquo;s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+<p>Pecksniff&rsquo;s Downfall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Peggotty, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span></p>
+<p>Perker&rsquo;s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Piccadilly, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Pickwick&rsquo;s Discovery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Imprisonment, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Retirement, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Travels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page2">2</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Trial, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Pip&rsquo;s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>P. J. T., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+<p>Plornish&rsquo;s Home, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Podsnaps, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>Poetical Tribute, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+<p>Police Court, Bow Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hatton Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>Portsmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Birthplace of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cambridge Barracks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Portugal Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+<p>Post Office, Charing Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; General, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>Poultry, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Princess Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>Prison, The Fleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; King&rsquo;s Bench, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Marshalsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Procter, Miss Adelaide, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>Pubsey &amp; Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>Pump Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Quartermaine&rsquo;s</span> Ship Tavern,
+<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+<p>Quilp&rsquo;s House, 33</p>
+<p>&mdash; Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Railway</span> Street, Chatham, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+<p>Red Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Residence of Brownlow, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dombey, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gordon, Lord G., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Jellyby, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; La Creevy, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Lammles, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mansfield, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Merdle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Micawber, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Nickleby, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Pickwick, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Snagsby, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tulkinghorn, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Veneerings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Restaurant, Epitaux&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
+<p>Richard Doubledick, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Rochester</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bull Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; College Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Crown Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Crypts, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Eastgate House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Esplanade, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Minor Canon Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Restoration Mouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; St. Nicholas Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Sapsea&rsquo;s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; The Vines, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Watts&rsquo;s Charity, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Rogue Riderhood, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Rokesmith Wedding, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Roman Bath, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+<p>Rosa Budd, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+<p>Rowland &amp; Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Rudge, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Rules of King&rsquo;s Bench, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Sackville</span> Street, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Saffron Hill, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Little, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Alphege Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Clement Danes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Dunstan&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; George&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; ,, Obelisk, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; James&rsquo;s Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; ,, Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>St.
+John the Evangelist&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Martin&rsquo;s Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mary Axe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Mary-le-Bow Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Pancras in the Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Sackville Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Salem House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+<p>Sampson Brass, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Sam&rsquo;s Valentine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Sapsea, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>Saracen&rsquo;s Head, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>Satis House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>Sawyer&rsquo;s Lodging, Bob, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
+<p>Seven Poor Travellers, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Six Jolly Fellowship Porters The,&rdquo; <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Skimpole Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Slammer, Doctor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Smallweed Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Smithfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>Snagsby&rsquo;s Residence, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Snevellicci, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>Snow Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+<p>Sole Street Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Sol&rsquo;s Arms, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Somerleyton Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>Southampton Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+<p>South Kensington Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+<p>South Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Southwark Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>Spaniards&rsquo; Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+<p>Spa Road Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Spenlow &amp; Jorkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Spiers &amp; Pond&rsquo;s Buffet, Messrs, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page42">42</a></span></p>
+<p>Stagg&rsquo;s Cellar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Staple Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+<p>Steerforth, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+<p>Strong&rsquo;s House, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Stryver&rsquo;s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Surrey Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Swan and Sugar Loaf, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Sweedlepipes, House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+<p>Swiss Ch&acirc;let, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>Sydney Carton, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Symond&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Tattycoram</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<p>Tavern, Black Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Tavern, Boot, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bull and Anchor, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Coffee, London, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Green Dragon, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; London, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Old George IVth, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Old Ship, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Quartermaine&rsquo;s Ship, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; &ldquo;Six Jolly Fellowship Porters&rdquo;, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Tavistock Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+<p>Tellson&rsquo;s Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Temple Bar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Fountain, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Garden Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Paper Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Pump Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Thames Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+<p>Thavies Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>Theatre, Astley&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Covent Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Her Majesty&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Rochester, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Surrey, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Three Cripples, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Tigg, Montague, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Toby Veck, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Todger&rsquo;s Boarding House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Tom All-Alone&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+<p>Tom Pinch&rsquo;s Apartments, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Toodles, Polly, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>Took&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Toots&rsquo;s Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>Tox, Miss Lucretia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+<p>Traddles, Home of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Traddles&rsquo;s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Travellers, Seven Poor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Trial of Charles Darnay, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>Trinity House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>Tulkinghorn&rsquo;s Residence, Mr., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+<p>Tupman&rsquo;s Retreat, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Turveydrop&rsquo;s Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>Twemlow, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Twinkleton, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Varden</span> Family, The, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Veneering Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Venus, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span><span
+class="smcap">Walter</span> Wilding, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+<p>Warren, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<p>Waterbrook&rsquo;s Establishment, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+<p>Watts, Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Wedding of Mr. Snodgrass, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Welbeck Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>Weller, Sam, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tony, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>Weller&rsquo;s Rendezvous, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+<p>Wellington Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, Strand, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+<p>Wemmick&rsquo;s Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Wedding, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+<p>Westminster Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+<p>White Hart Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>White Horse Cellars, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Wigmore Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Wilfer Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Residence of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Willet, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+<p>Wimpole Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Wititterly, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+<p>Wooden Midshipman, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span>&ndash;71</p>
+<p>Wood Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Woods&rsquo; Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth</span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+<p>Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND***</p>
+<pre>
+
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