diff options
Diffstat (limited to '38652-h/38652-h.htm')
| -rw-r--r-- | 38652-h/38652-h.htm | 9928 |
1 files changed, 9928 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/38652-h/38652-h.htm b/38652-h/38652-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdcd0ea --- /dev/null +++ b/38652-h/38652-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9928 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut, +Illustrated by Helen M. James + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Rambles in Dickens' Land + + +Author: Robert Allbut + + + +Release Date: January 23, 2012 [eBook #38652] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND*** +</pre> +<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fp.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Henley on Thames" +title= +"Henley on Thames" +src="images/fp.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1><a name="pageiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +iii</span><span class="GutSmall">RAMBLES IN</span><br /> +DICKENS’ LAND</h1> +<p style="text-align: center">BY ROBERT ALLBUT</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">WITH +INTRODUCTION BY</span><br /> +GERALD BRENAN<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY</span><br /> +HELEN M. JAMES</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/logo.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Logo" +title= +"Logo" +src="images/logo.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">LONDON</span><br /> +S. T. FREEMANTLE<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">217 PICCADILLY</span><br /> +1899</p> +<h2><a name="pageiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +iv</span>NOTICE</h2> +<p><i>The several Extracts from the Works of Dickens contained in +this Manual</i>, <i>are used for the better illustration of the +text</i>, <i>by kind permission of Messrs.</i> <span +class="smcap">Chapman & Hall</span>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">Printed by <span +class="smcap">Ballantyne</span>, <span +class="smcap">Hanson</span> and Co.<br /> +At the Ballantyne Press</p> +<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +v</span>CONTENTS</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">List of Illustrations</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pagevii">vii</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pageix">ix</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Author’s preface</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pagexxv">xxv</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE I</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Charing Cross to Lincoln’s Inn +Fields</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE II</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Lincoln’s Inn to the Mansion +House</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE III</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Charing Cross to Thavies Inn, Holborn +Circus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE IV</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court +Road</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE V</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Bank of England to her Majesty’s +Theatre</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE VI</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to Chatham, Rochester and +Gadshill</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>RAMBLE +VII</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to Canterbury and +Dover</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE VIII</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Excursion to +Henley-on-Thames</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE IX</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">By Great Eastern Route from London to +Yarmouth</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">RAMBLE X</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">London to Dorking and +Portsmouth</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Appendix</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page150">150</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Index</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vii</span>LIST +OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Henley-on-Thames</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Frontispiece</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>To face page</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Old Roman Bath</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Old Curiosity Shop</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Fountain Court, Temple</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Doorway in Staple Inn</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Children’s +Hospital</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Tavistock House</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Drawing-room, Devonshire +House</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The “Leather Bottle,” +Cobham</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Eastgate House, Rochester</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Restoration House, +Rochester</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Gadshill Place</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Home of Agnes</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The “King’s Head,” +Chigwell</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The “Great White Horse,” +Ipswich</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Dickens’ Birthplace</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">“The Spaniards,” Hampstead +Heath</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +ix</span>INTRODUCTION</h2> +<p>It is one of the magic legacies left by the great romancers, +that the scenes and characters which they described should +possess for most of us an air of reality, so convincing as +sometimes to put staid history to the blush. The +novelist’s ideals become actual to the popular mind; while +commonplace truth hides itself among its dry-as-dust records, +until some curious antiquary or insistent pedant drags it forth +to make a nine days’ wonder. We sigh over +“Juliet’s Tomb” in spite of the precisians, sup +in the inn kitchen at Pennaflor with Gil Blas at our elbow, and +shudder through the small hours outside the haunted House of the +Black Cat in Quaker Philadelphia. At Tarascon they show you +Tartarin’s oriental garden; and you must hide the +irrepressible smile, for Tartarin is painfully real to these good +cap-shooters. The other day an illustrated magazine +published pictures of Alexander Selkirk’s birthplace, and +labelled them “The Home of Robinson Crusoe.” +The editor who chose that caption was still under the spell of +Defoe. To him, as to the vast majority, Crusoe the +imaginary seemed vividly real, while the flesh-and-blood Selkirk +was but a name. And <a name="pagex"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. x</span>if you have that catholic sympathy +which is the true test of the perfect lover of romance, read +“David Copperfield” once again, and then, by way of +experiment, spend an afternoon in Canterbury. You will find +yourself expecting at one moment to see Mr. Micawber step +jauntily out of the Queen’s Head Inn, at another to catch a +glimpse of the red-haired Heep slinking along North Lane to his +“’umble dwelling.” You will probably meet +a dozen buxom “eldest Miss Larkinses,” and obnoxious +butcher-boys—perhaps even a sweet Agnes Wickfield, or a +Miss Betsy Trotwood driving in from Dover. And, above all, +you will certainly enjoy yourself, and thank your gods for +Charles Dickens.</p> +<p>Mr. Would-be Wiseman may affect to sneer at our pilgrimages to +this and other places connected with the imaginary names of +fiction; but he must recognise the far-reaching influence for +good exercised by symbols and associations over the human +mind. The sight of a loved home after many years—the +flutter of one’s country’s flag in foreign +lands—these things touch keenly our better nature. In +a like manner is the thoughtful man impressed when he treads a +pathway hallowed by the writings of some favourite poet or +romancer. The moral lesson which the author intended to +convey, his insight into character or loving eye for +Nature’s beauties, and many exquisite passages from his +books appeal to us all the more, when we recall them in the very +rooms where they were written—<a name="pagexi"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xi</span>among the gloomy streets or breezy +hills which he has filled with his inventions. Says +Washington Irving in his essay on Stratford: “I could not +but reflect on the singular gift of the poet; to be able thus to +spread the magic of his mind over the very face of Nature; to +give to things and places a charm and character not their own, +and to turn this ‘working-day’ world into a perfect +fairyland. He is indeed the true enchanter, whose spell +operates, not upon the senses, but upon the imagination and the +heart. Under the wizard influence of Shakespeare I had been +walking all day in a complete delusion. . . . I had been +surrounded with fancied beings; with mere airy nothings conjured +up by poetic power; yet which, to me, had all the charm of +reality. I had heard Jaques soliloquise beneath his oak; +had beheld the fair Rosalind and her companion adventuring +through the woodlands; and, above all, had been once more present +in spirit with fat Jack Falstaff and his contemporaries, from the +august Justice Shallow down to the gentle Master Slender and the +sweet Anne Page. Ten thousand honours and blessings on the +bard who has thus gilded the dull realities of life with innocent +illusions.” Wherefore, in spite of the sneers of +Master Would-be Wiseman, let us continue to make these pleasant +pilgrimages; not alone for our own satisfaction and betterment, +but also in memory of those who have opened before us so many +delectable lands of fancy, and given us so many agreeable +companions of the road.</p> +<p><a name="pagexii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xii</span>This +volume, then, is the pilgrim’s guide to Dickens’ +Land—the loving topography of that fertile and very +populous region. No far away foreign country is +Dickens’ Land. It lies at our doors; we may explore +it when we choose, with never a passport to purchase nor a Custom +House to fear. The sojourner in London can scarce look from +his windows without beholding scores of its interesting +places. To parody that passage which describes Mr. +Pickwick’s outlook into Goswell Street—Dickens’ +Land is at our feet; Dickens’ Land is on our right hand as +far as the eye can reach; Dickens’ Land extends on our +left, and the opposite side of Dickens’ Land is over the +way. Nor do the bounds of this genial territory confine +themselves to London alone. Outlying portions spread north +and south, east and west, over England. There is even, as +Sala showed, a Dickens’ quarter in Paris; and we have +unexpectedly encountered small colonies of Dickens’ Land +across the wide Atlantic. But the best of it lies close to +the great heart of the world—in London, or in the counties +thereabout; and if “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” +succeeds in guiding its readers with pleasure and profit over +this storied ground, it will have faithfully fulfilled its +mission.</p> +<p>Trouble has not been spared to make this topography accurate +as well as entertaining. Mr. Weller the younger, with all +his “extensive and peculiar” knowledge of +London—Mr. Weller the elder and his brothers of the whip, +with <i>their</i> <a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiii</span>knowledge of post-roads and coaching inns, could +hardly have identified the various localities more clearly than +the compiler has done. Wherever doubts and disputes +arise—as in regard to the site of the “Old Curiosity +Shop”—all sides of the case are given, and the reader +is asked to sum up the arguments and judge for himself. In +nearly every instance a quotation is offered from the author, by +means of which the pilgrim is enabled to refresh his memory and +bring his own recollections of the book to bear upon the question +of the site. These quotations will be found to act +admirably as aids to memory, and to obviate the necessity of +carrying a whole library of Dickens about on one’s +rambles. Take, for example, the excerpts from “David +Copperfield” in connection with the visit to Dover. +The facetious answers of the boatmen to David when, sitting +ragged and forlorn in the Dover Market Place, he inquires for his +aunt’s house, bring back at a single touch the whole sad +story of the boy’s tramp from London to the coast. It +does not require much imagination to picture him sitting there +“on the step of an empty shop,” with his weary, +pinched face and his “dusty sunburnt, half-clothed +figure,” while the sea-faring folk (lineal forbears of +those who frequent the place to-day) made mock of him with their +clumsy japes, until at length happened by the friendly +fly-driver, who showed him how to reach the residence of the old +lady who “carries a bag—bag with a good deal of room +in it—is gruffish, and comes <a name="pagexiv"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xiv</span>down upon you, sharp.” +It is easy, too, with the help of our guide, to follow the +shivering child along the cliffs to Miss +Trotwood’s—nay, to identify the “very neat +little cottage, with cheerful bow-windows,” where that good +soul looked after Mr. Dick, and defended her “immaculate +grass-plot” against marauding donkeys. It is this +present writer’s privilege to know a charming elderly lady +who boasts of Dover as her birthplace, and who, when she has +exhausted the other lions of that town, is accustomed to close +her remarks with the statement that she “lived for years +within a stone’s-throw of Miss Betsy Trotwood’s +cottage.” Occasionally the Superior Person (who, +alas, is rarely absent nowadays!) points out with a smile of +tolerance that neither Miss Trotwood nor yet her house ever +existed save in the novelist’s brain. Whereupon this +charming old lady shakes her finger testily at the transgressor, +and exclaims, “It is quite evident that you have never +lived in Dover. Miss Betsy Trotwood a myth, indeed! +Let me tell you that my own mother knew the dear woman +well—yes, and that delightful Mr. Dick too; and she +remembered seeing Mr. Dickens drive up in a fly from the railway +station to visit them. Of course their names were not +‘Trotwood’ and ‘Dick’ at all; it would +never have done for Mr. Dickens to put them in his book under the +real names, particularly as Mr. Dick was related to many good +families in that part of Kent. I have even a dim +recollection of seeing Miss Trotwood being wheeled about in a +bath-chair when <a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xv</span>I was a very little girl and she a very old woman. +Myth, indeed! Why, there are old men in Dover now who were +warned off the grass-plot by David Copperfield’s aunt when +they were donkey-boys.” The animation of the speaker +shows that she believes everything she says. Perhaps a lady +possessing the characteristics of Miss Betsy did once upon a time +inhabit the cottage in Dover. Perhaps there was a real Mr. +Dick. Otherwise these recollections are but another example +of that hypnotism exercised over posterity by the great +romancers, to which allusion has already been made.</p> +<p>Again, the many references and the quotations made from +several of Dickens’ works, illustrative of the Temple and +the Lincoln’s Inn quarter—(pages 2 to 25 in the +ensuing “Rambles”)—are certain to be +appreciated by the Rambler. With their assistance he can +summon back to his memory the tender love story of Ruth Pinch, +and so dream away a happy hour in peaceful Fountain Court; follow +in fancy Maypole Hugh and the illustrious Captain Sim Tappertit +as they ascended the stairs to Sir John Chester’s chambers +in Paper Buildings; stroll thoughtfully along King’s Bench +Walk with the spirit of Sidney Carton; and, in the purlieus of +Chancery Lane, review the legal abuses of the past—(perhaps +even some of those that survive to-day)—reflect upon +“Jarndyce and Jarndyce,” or upon the banished +sponging-houses of this district, and once <a +name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xvi</span>more admit +that Dickens the great novelist was also Dickens the great +reformer.</p> +<p>An important feature of “Rambles in Dickens’ +Land” will be found in the exhaustive references to +Dickens’ own haunts and homes, and the haunts and homes of +many of his relatives and friends. Naturally, these are in +numerous cases intimately bound up with the creations of his +novels, for Dickens did not “write out of an +inkwell,” but looked for inspiration to real life and real +scenes. At Portsmouth our volume guides you to the house +where he was born, and to the old church register wherein the +christening is entered of—(how strangely the full name +sounds!)—“Charles John Huffham Dickens.” +But the same venerable seaport is thronged with memories of +Nicholas Nickleby and his player-friends, Miss Snevellicci, the +Crummles family, poor Smike and the rest. It is interesting +to remember that an American writer once suggested the +possibility that Dickens had obtained Nickleby’s +experiences as an actor from personal adventures with a +travelling “troupe” during his youth. This is +not impossible, although Forster makes no mention of such an +adventure; the early years of Dickens are by no means fully +accounted for, and it is certain that the stage had always a +great fascination for him.</p> +<p>Back of old Hungerford Stairs, behind what is now Charing +Cross Station, you may visit the spot where the two +boys—the real and the imaginary—Charles Dickens and +David Copperfield <a name="pagexvii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xvii</span>spent so many hours while working for a scant pittance +in that “crazy old house with a wharf of its own abutting +on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when it was +out, and literally overrun with rats.” Gadshill, +where Dickens lived and died, is on the very borders of historic +Rochester, teeming with reminders of “Edwin Drood,” +not to say of the genial Pickwick and his companions. Of +Furnival’s Inn where “Pickwick” was written, +and where its author spent the first months of his married life, +only the site remains; but these “Rambles” will help +you to find all, or nearly all, of his other homes, even to that +last home of all—the grave in Westminster Abbey, in which +he was laid on the 14th of June 1870. His friends’ +houses too, and the scores of spots noteworthy by reason of +association with him personally, you will be given an opportunity +of visiting if you follow this careful <i>cicerone</i>. At +No. 58 Lincoln’s Inn Fields still stands Forster’s +house, where, in 1844, Dickens read “The Chimes” to +Carlyle, Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and others, and which is also +utilised in “Bleak House” to supply a model for the +dwelling-place of Mr. Tulkinghorn. The office of +<i>Household Words</i>, founded by Dickens, is now part of the +Gaiety Theatre. The old taverns about Hampstead, whither he +loved to resort for a friendly flagon “and a red-hot +chop,” are much as they were in the novelist’s day, +save in one regrettable instance where the proprietor has <a +name="pagexviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xviii</span>preferred, in order to cater to an unappreciative +class, to disfigure his inn into a mere modern public-house of +the conventional type, such that Dickens, who loved the place +when it was old-fashioned and comfortable, would utterly disown +now. The ancient “Spaniards,” however, is much +the same as it was in the days of the Gordon riots, when the then +host of the quaint little tavern saved Lord Mansfield’s +country house at Caen Wood by allowing the rioters to devastate +his cellars, while he privily sent for the Guards. The +reckless waste of liquor on that occasion is said to have +suggested to Dickens the scene in “Barnaby Rudge,” +where John Willet watches the sack of his beloved +“Maypole” and sees his cellars drained of their best, +as he lies bound and helpless in the bar. That the novelist +frequently visited the “Spaniards,” the old records +of the house can show; and in “Pickwick” he makes it +the scene of a memorable tea-party, attended by Mrs. Bardell, +just before those “sharp practitioners,” Dodson and +Fogg, caused the injured lady’s arrest. The +“Bull and Bush,” another old Hampstead inn much +frequented of Dickens, also exists unharmed by the +“renovator.” And while we are upon the subject +of inns known to our author, let us not forget the +“Maypole” itself, here shown to be the +“King’s Head” at Chigwell. Dickens was in +ecstasies over the “King’s Head” and the +surrounding neighbourhood, when a chance visit disclosed to him +their <a name="pagexix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xix</span>attractions; and the letters which he wrote to his +friends at this period are full of Chigwell and its picturesque +hostelry. Little wonder, therefore, that he afterwards made +them famous in “Barnaby Rudge.” The pilgrim +will not be disappointed in the “King’s Head” +of to-day, if he accepts the good advice offered by the compiler +of these “Rambles,” <i>i.e.</i> to take his ideal of +the place from Dickens’ own description rather than from +the elaborate drawing of Cattermole. He may perhaps notice +that in “Barnaby Rudge” no hint is conveyed of the +close proximity of Chigwell church, which is simply across the +road. Doubtless this is a sign of the novelist’s +artistic sense. To have his “Maypole” windows +looking directly into the graveyard would have detracted from +that air of warmth and conviviality with which he wished to endow +his rare old inn. In most other respects the description +exactly fits the “King’s Head” as it must have +been in “No Popery” times—as it is with little +alteration to-day. The trim green sward at the +rear—once evidently the bowling-green—is a famous +resting-place in summer; and in one of the small arbours Dickens +is said to have written during his stay here. The village, +although showing signs of the approach of that fell barbarian the +Essex builder, is still sufficiently picturesque and old-world to +keep one’s illusions alive. There is a grammar school +at Chigwell, the boys of which are learned in neighbouring +Dickens’ lore. If you are <a name="pagexx"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xx</span>credulous—as it becomes a +pilgrim to be—these grammarians will show you John +Willet’s tomb in the churchyard, and Dolly Varden’s +path with the real Warren, on the skirts of Hainault Forest, at +the farther end of it. Both in Chigwell and Chigwell Row +some village worthies are still to be met with who have conversed +with Charles Dickens and the kindred spirits that came hither in +his company. At the “King’s Head,” if Mr. +Willet’s successor be agreeable, one may lunch or sup in +the Dickens’ Room, also held to have been the chamber in +which Mr. Haredale and the elder Chester held their memorable +interview.</p> +<p>Some other inns to which Dickens is known to have resorted +are: the “Bull” at Rochester, the “Leather +Bottle” at Cobham, and the “Great White Horse” +at Ipswich—all with Pickwickian associations; the +“Old Cheshire Cheese” in Fleet Street, and the +“George and Dragon” at Canterbury. To many +minor taverns in London he was also a frequent visitor, for he +sought his characters in the market-place rather than in the +study. His signature, with the familiar flourish +underneath, is treasured in hotel registers not a few, and it is +esteemed a high honour to be permitted to slumber in the +“Dickens’ Room.”</p> +<p>To all and each of these places “Rambles in +Dickens’ Land” leads the way, if the reader chooses +to follow. A notable advantage of these rambles is the ease +with which they may be undertaken. An ordinary healthy man +or woman may set forth <a name="pagexxi"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xxi</span>without apprehension in the +author’s footsteps from the beginning to the end of any +particular journey which he describes, and even the invalid may +saunter through a “Ramble” without fatigue. +Conveyances are only needed to bring the pilgrim to the +starting-point of the voyage, and in several instances even these +aids to locomotion may be dispensed with altogether when the +sightseer is one after Dickens’ own heart—a sturdy +pedestrian. By pursuing the routes indicated, there is no +reason why a Grand Tour of Dickens’ Land should not be made +by easy stages and at slight cost. Or the pilgrim may pick +out some particular trip, when leisure and chance carry him in +that direction. The volume is in truth a serviceable +guide-book, leading its clients by the best ways, and even +informing them where, when sight-seeing is over, a place may be +found for rest, refreshment, and reflection. And it is +happier than most guide-books in that it is never called upon to +describe the stupid and uninteresting, which have no existence in +Dickens’ Land.</p> +<p>Into Dickens’ Land, therefore, my masters, an you will +and when you will! The high-roads thither are always open, +the lanes and by-paths are free for us to tread. He that +found out this rare world has made it fully ours. Let us +visit our inheritance, or revisit it, if that be the better +word. Let us make real the scenes we have read of and +dreamt of—peopling them with the folk of Dickens, so that +familiar faces shall look upon us <a name="pagexxii"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xxii</span>from familiar windows, familiar +voices greet us as we pass. Shall we travel abroad in the +fashion of the corresponding committee of the Pickwick +Club? Then here is this book, with a wealth of shrewd +information between its covers, ready to be our own particular +Samuel Weller—to wear our livery, whether of sadness or of +joy—to point out to us the sights and the notabilities, to +be garrulous when we look for gossip, and silent when our mood is +for silence—to act, in short, as that useful individual +whom we all “rayther want,” “somebody to look +arter us when we goes out a-wisitin’.”</p> +<p>Where, if you please, shall we “wisit” +first? It is hard to choose, since there is so much to +choose from. We may ramble about London town, where, like +Mr. Weller, our guide is “werry much at home.” +If so, we are sure to encounter a host of old cronies. +Perhaps we shall see the great Buzfuz entering court, all in his +wig and silk, nodding with lofty condescension to his struggling +brother, Mr. T. Traddles, which latter is bringing “Sophy +and the girls” to set Gray’s Inn a-blooming. Or +Tom Pinch going towards Fountain Court to meet the waiting +Ruth. Or David Copperfield joyously ushering J. Steerforth +into his rooms in the Adelphi. Or Captain Cuttle steering +for the sign of the “Wooden Midshipman,” which he may +eventually find (and make a note of) at its new moorings in the +Minories. Or Dick Swiveller, poor soul, loafing to his +dingy lodgings. Or that precious pair, Bob Sawyer and +Benjamin Allen, startling <a name="pagexxiii"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xxiii</span>the sullen repose of Lant Street +with bacchanalian revelry.</p> +<p>And, if the London Dickens’ Land palls, doth not this +most inviting country stretch to all points of the compass? +Northward goes yonder well-appointed coach, whereof the driver +has just been escorted from a certain public-house in Portugal +Street by a mottle-faced man, in company with two or three other +persons of stout and weather-beaten aspect—the driver +himself being stouter and more weather-beaten than all. Let +us take the box-seat by his side, and lead him on to talk of +“shepherds in wolves’ clothing,” until +presently he tools us into Ipswich, pulling up under the sign of +that “rapacious animal” the Great White Horse. +In Ipswich we may catch a glimpse of a mulberry-coloured livery +slinking by St. Clement’s Church, and guess therefrom that +one Alfred Jingle is here at his old game of laying siege to the +hearts of susceptible females with money. Here, too, behind +that green gate in Angel Lane, resides the pretty housemaid soon +to become Mrs. Sam Weller. But we must not linger in +Ipswich. Yarmouth lies before us, with its phantom +boat-house still upturned on the waste places towards the sea, +with Little Em’ly, and the Peggottys, and with Mr. Barkis +waiting in the Market Place to jog us out to sleepy +“Blunderstone.”</p> +<p>Back again in London, there is another coach-of-fancy prepared +to take us into Kent, from the yard of the Golden Cross. +Four gentlemen—one <a name="pagexxiv"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xxiv</span>a beaming, spectacled person in +drab shorts—are outside passengers for Rochester. And +see, here is the ubiquitous Jingle again, clambering to the roof +with all his worldly goods wrapped up in a brown paper +parcel. “Heads—heads—take care of your +heads,” he cries, as we rumble under the old archway; and +then, hey! for hopfields and cherry orchards, for “mouldy +old cathedrals” in “Cloisterham” or Canterbury, +for jolly Kentish yeomen and bright-eyed maids of Kent. . . +. Who was that wan-faced, coatless urchin we passed just +now in a whirl of chalky dust? His name is Copperfield, and +he is on his way to Dover. And is not that Mr. Wardle +driving his laughing women-folk to the review? And again, +yonder on the brown common, by the Punch and Judy show, there is +a grey old man, pillowing in his loving arms a little blue-eyed +girl. These, too, we know; and our hearts go out to them, +for who of us is there that has not—</p> +<blockquote><p>“. . . with Nell, in Kentish meadows,<br /> +Wandered, and lost his way”?</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Of introduction there is no more to be said. The book +itself lies open before you; and at your own sweet will you may +ramble with it, high and low, through all the land of +Dickens.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">G. B.</p> +<h2><a name="pagexxv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xxv</span>PREFACE</h2> +<p>The great majority of English readers—on both sides of +the Atlantic—claim personal acquaintance with +“Samivel” Weller, Mark Tapley, Oliver Twist, and many +more besides: the old companions of our schoolboy days. We +cherish pleasant remembrance of the familiar “green +leaves” of Dombey, David Copperfield, and the rest, as they +first afforded us their monthly quota of interest and enjoyment; +and have always maintained intimate relations with Captain +Cuttle, Tom Pinch, Mr. Peggotty, and the more recent <i>dramatis +personæ</i> of the works of Dickens. We sympathise +with Florence, Agnes, and Esther as with sisters, and keep +corners of our hearts sacred to the memory of Little Nell, Paul +Dombey, and the child-wife Dora.</p> +<p>The creations of “bonnie Prince Charlie” have thus +become veritable “household words”; part and parcel +of our home associations, instinct with personality and +life. We never think of them as the airy nothings of +imaginative fiction, but regard them as familiar friends, having +“a local habitation and a name” amongst us; with +whose cheerful acquaintance we could ill afford to part, and who +bear us kindly company on the hot and dusty highway of our daily +lives.</p> +<p>Charles Dickens was essentially a Londoner, always having a +fond regard for the highways and by-ways of this great +Metropolis, and confessedly deriving his inspiration from the +varied phases of Town life and Society. We accordingly find +that the main incidents and characters of his novels have here +their <i>mise en scène</i>.</p> +<p>In homage to the genius of his favourite Author, the <a +name="pagexxvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xxvi</span>writer of +the following pages has endeavoured to localise many of the more +familiar associations of the great Novelist with as much +exactitude as may be possible; but it must be remembered that +London has undergone considerable alteration and reconstruction, +during the last fifty years.</p> +<p>Thus far reads the original Preface to this Work, as written +thirteen years since; the first (and smaller) edition of which +was published in 1886, under the title of <i>Rambles in London +with Charles Dickens</i>. The author now begs to thankfully +acknowledge its favourable reception, generously accorded by the +Press in particular, and the reading-world in general.</p> +<p>The present arrangement of the book includes some important +additions as well as considerable revision, the latter being +rendered necessary by the <i>disappearance</i> of many houses and +buildings in the course of intervening years, and the steady +progress of Metropolitan improvements. Thus it comes to +pass that only the memory of what has been remains, in regard to +many of these Dickensian localities and landmarks; and it has +been the object of the author (1899) to indicate the former +whereabouts of these old places, as heretofore existent. +Especially in the Strand and neighbourhood (Ramble I.), as well +as in Chancery Lane and Holborn (Rambles II. and IV.), many +alterations have taken place, and another London is springing up +around a younger generation, not known to Dickens. Our +Author says (in <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>), “Change begets +change; nothing propagates so fast”: and the London of +to-day, and the activities of our Metropolitan County Council, at +the close of this nineteenth century, afford striking testimony +to the truth of the aphorism, “The old order changeth, +giving place to new.”</p> +<p>The <i>Pall Mall Magazine</i>, July 1896, contains a +contribution by Mr. C. Dickens, junr.—“Notes on Some +Dickens’ Places and People”—in which he +deprecates the endeavours of those inquirers who have attempted +any localisation of these places. “It is true,” +says he, “that <a name="pagexxvii"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xxvii</span>many of the places described in +Charles Dickens’s books were suggested by real localities +or buildings, but the more the question comes to be examined, the +more clear it is that all that was done with the prototype, was +to use it as a painter or a sculptor uses a sketch, and that, +under the hand of the writer and in the natural process of +evolution, it has grown, in almost every case, into a finished +picture, with few, if any, very salient points about it to render +its origin unmistakable.” He also quotes, with +emphatic approval, from a review of Mr. P. Fitzgerald’s +<i>Bozland</i>, then recently published: “Dickens, like +Turner in the sister art of painting—like all real artists +indeed—used nature, no doubt, but used it as being his +slave and in no wise his master. He was not content simply +to reproduce the places, persons, things that he had seen and +known. He passed them through the crucible of his +imagination, fused them, re-combined their elements, changed them +into something richer and rarer, gave them forth as products of +his art. Are we not doing him some disservice when we try +to reverse the process?” “With these words I +most cordially agree.—<span class="smcap">Charles Dickens +the Younger</span>.”</p> +<p>The author of this book would submit that the attempt to +preserve the memory of these localities in association with their +original use by “the Master,” does <i>not</i> +“reverse the process”; but, rightly considered, may +help the reader to a better comprehension of the genius and +method of Dickens. The dictum of the Rev. W. J. Dawson, +given a few years since in <i>The Young Woman</i> (referring to a +previous edition of this Work), is worth consideration: +“The book casts a new light upon Dickens’s methods of +work, and shows us how little he left to invention, and how much +he owed to exact observation.” And in this connection +there may be quoted the opinion of Sir Walter Besant, who +published an appreciative article in <i>The Queen</i>, 9th May +1896, anent these selfsame “Rambles,” which thus +concludes: “With this information in your hand, you can go +down the Strand and view its streets <a +name="pagexxviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xxviii</span>from +north to south with increased intelligence and interest. I +am not certain whether peopling a street with creations of the +imagination is not more useful—it is certainly more +interesting—than with the real figures of the stony-hearted +past.”</p> +<p>The writer, therefore, still believes that such a Dickensian +Directory as is now prepared will be found a valuable practical +guide for those who may desire to visit the haunts and homes of +these old friends, whose memory we cannot “willingly let +die;” and to recall the many interests connected with them +by the way.</p> +<p>Though not professing to be infallible, he begs to assure +those whom it may concern that his information—gleaned from +many sources—has been collected <i>con amore</i> with +carefulness and caution; and he ventures to hope that his book +may be of service to many Metropolitan visitors, as indicating +(previous to the coming time when the New Zealander shall +meditate over the ruins of London) some few pleasant +“Rambles in Dickens’ Land.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">R. A.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>September</i> 20, +1899.</p> +<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>RAMBLE +I<br /> +<i>Charing Cross to Lincoln’s Inn Fields</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">The Golden Cross; Associations with Pickwick +and Copperfield—Craven Street; Residence of Mr. +Brownlow—Charing Cross Terminus—Hungerford Stairs and +Market; Lamert’s Blacking Manufactory; Micawber’s +Lodgings; Mr. Dick’s Bedroom—No. 3 Chandos Street; +Blacking Warehouse—Bedfordbury; “Tom +All-Alone’s”—Buckingham Street; +Copperfield’s Chambers—The Adelphi Arches—The +Adelphi Hotel; Snodgrass and Emily Wardle—“The +Fox-under-the-Hill”; Martin Chuzzlewit and Mark +Tapley—The Residence of Miss La Creevy—Offices of +<i>Household Words</i> and <i>All the Year Round</i>—Covent +Garden Market; Hummums and Tavistock Hotels, associated with +“Great Expectations,” etc.—Bow Street—Old +Bow Street Police Court; “The Artful +Dodger”—Covent Garden Theatre—Broad Court; Mr. +Snevellicci—St. Martin’s Hall; Dickens’s First +London Readings—Russell Court; Nemo’s Burial +Place—Clare Court; Copperfield’s +Dining-Rooms—Old Roman Bath; Mrs. Lirriper’s +Lodgings—St. Clement Danes—Portsmouth Street; +“The Old Curiosity Shop”—The Old George the +Fourth; “The Magpie and Stump”—Portugal Street; +“The Horse and Groom”; Mr. Tony Weller and his Legal +Adviser—Lincoln’s Inn Fields; Mr. John +Forster’s House; Residence of Mr. Tulkinghorn.</p> +<p>Starting from <span class="smcap">Charing Cross Post +Office</span> as a convenient centre, and taking an eastward +course up the Strand, we immediately reach, on the left-hand +(north) side—a few doors from the Post Office—<b>The +Golden Cross Hotel</b>. Sixty years since this <a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>establishment +was one of the principal Coaching Houses of the Metropolis. +It was the starting-point of the Rochester Coach, by which, on +May 13, 1827, <i>Mr. Pickwick</i> and his friends commenced their +travels. Driving by cab from the vicinity of that +gentleman’s residence in Goswell Street, here it was that +the pugnacious cabman, having mistaken the purpose of Mr. +P.’s note-book, committed assault and battery upon the four +Pickwickians, “sparring away like clockwork,” from +which unexpected attack they were rescued by the redoubtable +<i>Mr. Alfred Jingle</i>. In those days there was an arched +entrance leading from the Strand beneath the front of the hotel +to the coach-yard behind. Hence Mr. Jingle’s warning +to his new acquaintances—“Heads, heads; take care of +your heads!” which recommendation was followed by the first +recorded anecdote as given by that loquacious +pretender—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Terrible place—dangerous +work—other day—five children—mother—tall +lady, eating sandwiches—forgot the +arch—crash—knock—children look +round—mother’s head off—sandwich in her +hand—no mouth to put it in—head of a family +off—shocking—shocking.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This coach-yard and its entrance existed until the days of +<i>Copperfield</i>, who came to <span class="smcap">The Golden +Cross</span> in the nineteenth chapter of his history, having +just finished his education at Dr. Strong’s. He +arrived “outside the Canterbury Coach,” and here met +<i>Steerforth</i>, his former schoolboy patron, who speedily +arranged for his transference from No. 44, “a little loft +over a stable,” to No. 72, a comfortable bedroom next his +own. Here, says David, “I fell asleep in blissful +condition . . . until the early morning coaches rumbling out of +<i>the archway underneath</i> made me dream of thunder and the +gods.” This entrance was abolished in 1851, giving +place to a more convenient exterior arrangement and doorway; +again remodelled, 1897.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">The Golden Cross</span> is again referred +to in the Copperfield experience (chapter 40) as the place where +David conferred with <i>Mr. Peggotty</i>, one snowy night, after +their <a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +3</span>unexpected meeting opposite St. Martin’s Church +(close at hand on the north, at the corner of St. Martin’s +Lane), when <i>Martha</i> listened at the door.</p> +<blockquote><p>“In those days there was a side +entrance” (Duncannon Street, now appropriated by the London +and North-Western Railway Company) “nearly opposite to +where we stood. I pointed out the gateway, put my arm +through his, and we went across. Two or three public rooms +opened out of the stable-yard; and looking into one of them, and +finding it empty, and a good fire burning, I took him in +there.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Opposite the principal entrance of <span class="smcap">The +Golden Cross</span> is <b>Craven Street</b>, leading to the +Thames Embankment. It now mainly consists of private hotels +and boarding-houses, at which visitors to London may be +conveniently accommodated on reasonable terms. In the days +of <i>Oliver Twist</i> these were, for the most part, private +houses; and here was <span class="smcap">Mr. Brownlow’s +Residence</span>—taken after his removal from +Pentonville—in which was the back parlour where full +confession was extorted from <i>Monks</i>, <i>alias Edward +Leeford</i>. The house, No. 39 (now <i>Barnett’s +Private Hotel</i>), centrally situated on the east side, is +stated to have been assigned as the residence aforesaid.</p> +<p>On the south side of the Strand we immediately reach the +<b>Charing Cross Terminus</b> of the South-Eastern Railway, built +on the site of old Hungerford Market. At No. 30 +<b>Hungerford Stairs</b>, at the back of this locality, Charles +Dickens, when a lad, did duty at the Blacking Manufactory of a +relative, by name James Lamert, at a salary of six or seven +shillings a week, as his first employment in life. It was +the last house on the left-hand side of the way, a crazy, +tumble-down old place abutting on the river. Here his work +was to cover and label the pots of paste-blacking. To this +episode of his youthful experience he refers in the history of +“David Copperfield,” chapter 11, David becoming +“a labouring hind” in the service of <i>Messrs. +Murdstone and Grinby</i>. In old Hungerford Market, too, +was <a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span><span +class="smcap">The Chandler’s Shop</span> over which <i>Mr. +Peggotty</i> slept on the night of his first arrival in London; +the bedroom being afterwards appropriated by Mr. Dick.</p> +<blockquote><p>“There was a low wooden colonnade before the +door, which pleased Mr. Dick mightily. The glory of lodging +over this structure would have compensated him for many +inconveniences. . . . He was perfectly charmed with his +accommodation. Mrs. Crupp had indignantly assured him that +there wasn’t room to swing a cat there; but, as Mr. Dick +justly observed, ‘You know, Trotwood, I don’t want to +swing a cat. I never do swing a cat. Therefore, what +does that signify to me!’”—See +“Copperfield,” chapters 32 and 35.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><span class="smcap">Hungerford</span> is also mentioned in the +same book (chapter 57) as the place where, previous to their +departure for Australia, the <span class="smcap">Micawber +Family</span> had lodgings “in a little, dirty, tumble-down +public-house, which in those days was close to the stairs, and +whose protruding wooden rooms overhung the river.”</p> +<p>By a parallel street near at hand (next turning on the left of +the Strand—Agar Street) we come into Chandos Street, where +are situated the large stores of the Civil Service Supply +Association, which, during recent years, have been enlarged, +extending westward in Chandos Street. This extension +occupies the former site of No. 3, whilom a chemist’s shop, +kept by a Mr. Wellspring. Here, in the days that are gone, +was established a second warehouse of Lamert’s blacking +trade, the business being removed in course of time to this +address; and here Dickens, with other lads, was often busily +employed near the window. They acquired such dexterity in +finishing off the pots, that many persons would stand outside, +looking on with interest at the performance.</p> +<p>On the opposite side of Chandos Street is +<i>Bedfordbury</i>—a northward thoroughfare leading to New +Street, Covent Garden—on the right of which stands a range +of five large five-storied blocks known as <i>Peabody’s +Buildings</i>. These afford respectable accommodation for +artizans. This was the locality of <b>Tom +All-Alone’s</b>, that wretched rookery of evil repute in <a +name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>the days of +<i>Poor Joe</i>, as described in chapter 16 of “Bleak +House.” But, in these degenerate times, the black, +dilapidated streets and tumbling tenements have given place to +wholesome dwellings, and the neighbourhood is associated with the +name of a great American philanthropist.</p> +<p>Returning to the south side of the Strand, we next come to +<b>Buckingham Street</b> (turning on right, by No. 37), at the +end house of which, on the right, facing the river, was the top +set of chambers in the Adelphi, consisting of</p> +<blockquote><p>“A little half-blind entry, where you could +hardly see anything, a little stone-blind pantry, where you could +see nothing at all, a sitting-room and a bedroom.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here <i>David Copperfield</i> for some time resided under the +housekeeping supervision of Mrs. Crupp, and the residence was +afterwards shared by <i>Miss Betsy Trotwood</i>. At the +next turning in the Strand—by No. 64, same side of the +way—we arrive at Durham Street, which leads to the no +thoroughfare of <b>The Adelphi Arches</b>, about and through +which the lad Charles Dickens loved in his leisure time to +roam. David Copperfield says—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I was fond of wandering about the Adelphi, +because it was a mysterious place, with those dark arches. +I see myself emerging one evening from one of these arches, on a +little public-house, close to the river, with an open space +before it, where some coal-heavers were dancing.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Of this place more anon.</p> +<p>Continuing our onward journey, we come to Adam Street +(right-hand turning by No. 72), looking down which may be seen, +at the corner of John Street, <span class="smcap">The Adelphi +Hotel</span>. This hotel was known in the days of Pickwick +as <b>Osborn’s Hotel</b>, <b>Adelphi</b>. To this +establishment, it will be remembered, came <i>Mr. Wardle</i>, +visiting London with his daughter Emily, after Mr. +Pickwick’s release from the Fleet Prison, also accompanied +by his trusty retainer, <i>the fat boy</i>, <i>Joe</i>. The +last plate but one in the book illustrates <a +name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>the plan +adopted by <i>Mary</i> when inducing that intelligent youth to +observe a discreet silence as to the visit of Mr. Snodgrass to +his young mistress at this hotel; and we may recollect the +<i>contretemps</i> which afterwards took place here at +dinner-time, involving the detention of the clandestine lover, +and resulting in a very satisfactory +<i>dénouement</i>.—See “Pickwick,” +chapter 54.</p> +<p>Passing the next block onwards, we arrive at the handsome +frontage of the <span class="smcap">Hotel Cecil</span>. In +former days, at western corner of same, close to No. 75, there +existed a narrow and precipitous passage which was formerly the +approach to the halfpenny boats. It led to a little +public-house, “<b>The Fox-under-the-Hill</b>,” for a +long time shut up and in ruinous condition—once situated on +the water-side, the site of which is now covered by the west wing +of the Hotel Cecil.</p> +<p>This place is spoken of in Mr. Forster’s Biography as +being one of our author’s <i>favourite localities</i>, and +referred to in “Copperfield,” as before mentioned, in +connection with the Adelphi Arches. This, then, was +doubtless the tavern at which <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>, +<i>junr.</i>, was accommodated, on his arrival in London, +“in the humbler regions of the Adelphi;” and where he +was unexpectedly visited by <i>Mark Tapley</i>, who then and +there became his “nat’ral born servant, hired by +fate,” and his very faithful friend.—See +“Martin Chuzzlewit,” chapter 13.</p> +<p>Farther onwards, on the same side, towards the centre of the +Strand, there stood near Savoy Street the house which in all +probability was the <b>Residence of Miss La Creevy</b>. It +will be recollected that Ralph Nickleby, visiting his relations +at this address in the Strand, is described as stopping</p> +<blockquote><p>“At a private door, about halfway down that +crowded thoroughfare.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>No. 111 was an old-fashioned house in just such a position, +with a private door—a somewhat unusual convenience <a +name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>in the +Strand. A photographer’s case had, for many years, +displaced the “large gilt frame screwed upon the street +door,” in which Miss La Creevy aforetime displayed her +painted miniatures. The place has been pulled down, +together with the adjoining house. Handsome modern business +premises are erected on the double site.—See +“Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 2.</p> +<p>We now cross to the north side of the Strand, and take the +next turning on the left, <i>Wellington Street North</i>. +Passing the Lyceum Theatre, we may note, on the opposite side, +the offices of the Gaiety Theatre, No. 16. For many years +this was the <b>Office of</b> “<b>Household +Words</b>”; this well-known miscellany being started under +the conductorship of Charles Dickens, March 30, 1850.</p> +<p>It was afterwards removed to No. 26, higher up, on the same +side of the way, at which address the later issue of <i>All the +Year Round</i> was published, as conducted by Charles Dickens, +the son.</p> +<p>Proceeding a short distance onwards, and turning to the left, +we come into the precincts of <b>Covent Garden Market</b>. +At the south corner of <i>Russell Street</i> we may note the +position of the old <span class="smcap">Hummums Hotel</span>, +mentioned in “Great Expectations” as the place where +Pip slept, in accordance with the warning received from Mr. +Wemmick—“Don’t go home.”</p> +<p>The present establishment was erected on the site of the +former hotel (as it stood in the days of Mr. Pip’s +sojourn), 1892; on completion of the new Flower Market, <span +class="smcap">The Tavistock Hotel</span>, Piazzas, on the north +side of the market, was the house at which were held the +fortnightly meetings of “The Finches of the Grove,” +Herbert Pocket and Mr. Pip being members of the Club known by +this appellation in the book above mentioned. The end and +aim of this institution seemed to be “that the members +should dine expensively once a fortnight, to quarrel among +themselves as much as possible after dinner, and to cause six +waiters to get drunk on the stairs.”</p> +<p><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>A general +description of <i>Covent Garden</i> will be found in +“Little Dorrit” (chapter 14), and a graphic reference +to “the seamy side” of this locality is contained in +the pages of “Our Mutual Friend” (chapter 9, Book +4).</p> +<p>Returning by Russell Street, we soon reach <i>Bow Street</i>, +and on the left may observe an open space contiguous to the +<i>Foreign Fruit Market</i>. On this space there stood No. +4, in recent times occupied by Mr. Stinchcombe, costumier. +Some years since this was the situation of <b>Bow Street Police +Court</b>, now removed to the handsome new building facing Covent +Garden Theatre. This, therefore, was the place at which the +<i>Artful Dodger</i>, when committed for trial by the presiding +magistrate, thus reserved his defence:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“This ain’t the shop for justice; +besides which my attorney is a-breakfasting this morning with the +Vice-President of the House of Commons; but I shall have +something to say elsevere, and so will he, and so will a wery +numerous and respectable circle of acquaintances, as’ll +make them beaks wish they’d never been +born.”—See “Oliver Twist,” chapter +43.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At a short distance onwards, we may note <b>Covent Garden +Theatre</b>, selected by David Copperfield as his first place of +entertainment in London, after dinner at the Golden Cross +Hotel—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Being then in a pleasant frame of mind . . +. I resolved to go to the play. It was Covent Garden +Theatre that I chose; and there, from the back of a centre box, I +saw “Julius Cæsar” and the new pantomime. +To have all those noble Romans alive before me, and walking in +and out for my entertainment, instead of being the stern +taskmasters they had been at school, was a most novel and +delightful effect.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This theatre, as attended by David, was destroyed by fire +March 4, 1856, six years after his autobiography was published, +and afterwards rebuilt.</p> +<p>Exactly opposite the façade of the theatre is <b>Broad +Court</b>, past the new magisterial building above referred +to. This was the location given by <i>Mr. Snevellicci</i> +(at Portsmouth), on a convivial occasion, described in <a +name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>“Nicholas +Nickleby” (chapter 30), as his London address:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I am not ashamed of myself; Snevellicci is +my name. I’m to be found in Broad Court, Bow Street, +when I’m in town. If I’m not at home, let any +man ask for me at the stage-door.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>There is also historical reference to <i>Bow Street</i> in +“Barnaby Rudge,” as the place where “another +boy was hanged,” after the suppression of the Gordon +riots.</p> +<p>Exactly facing the north end of Bow Street, which gives into +Long Acre, is a large building, now a stationer’s +warehouse, recently used as the Clergy Co-operative Stores. +Thirty-five years since this site was occupied by <b>St. +Martin’s Hall</b>, in which Dickens gave his first series +of paid readings in London (sixteen nights), under the management +of Mr. Arthur Smith, 1858. The hall was a short time +afterwards burnt down, and the Queen’s Theatre was here +erected in its stead by Mr. Wigan; which theatre was since +converted to the commercial uses of the Clergy as aforesaid.</p> +<p>Proceeding up <i>Long Acre</i> to <i>Drury Lane</i>, we turn +to the right, and in five minutes pass the back of Drury Lane +Theatre. The second turning on the same side is <span +class="smcap">Russell Court</span>, a narrow passage leading to +Catherine Street. The entire area between the two streets, +for some distance, is cleared for building improvements, so that +the indications immediately following refer to the past, and not +practically to the present. These things have been, but are +not.</p> +<p>In this court, about halfway on the right, was to be found +(until 1897) the entrance to what was once the pauper <b>Burial +Ground</b> where Captain Hawdon—known as <i>Nemo</i> in the +pages of “Bleak House”—was interred, and where +Lady Dedlock was afterwards found dead at the gateway, she having +fled from her husband, Sir Leicester, in despair, dreading the +<i>exposé</i> threatened by Mr. Tulkinghorn. It is +also associated with <i>Poor Jo</i>, the +crossing-sweeper.—See “Bleak House,” chapters +11 and 59.</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +10</span>“With houses looking on, on every side, save where +a reeking little tunnel of a court gives access to the iron +gate—with every villainy of life in action close on death, +and every poisonous element of death in action close on +life—here, they lower our dear brother down a foot or two: +here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in incorruption: an +avenging ghost at many a sick bedside: a shameful testimony to +future ages, how civilisation and barbarism walked this boastful +island together.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This intermural graveyard was attached to the Church of St. +Mary-le-Strand, and has been closed for many years. The +enclosure was converted into a recreation ground, and formally +opened as such by Lady George Hamilton, May 19, 1886, on behalf +of the Metropolitan Public Garden Association. But the +entire locality is changed, the “avenging ghost” has +ceased to walk, and the “shameful testimony” has +ended.</p> +<p>At a short distance in Drury Lane, towards the Strand, we turn +(left) by No. 106, into <b>Clare Court</b>, referred to in +Forster’s Biography as follows—(C.D. +<i>loq.</i>):—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Once, I remember tucking my own bread +(which I had brought from home in the morning) under my arm, +wrapped up in a piece of paper like a book, and going into the +best dining-room in Johnson’s <i>a la mode</i> beef-house +in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a small +plate of <i>a la mode</i> beef to eat with it. What the +waiter thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all +alone, I don’t know, but I can see him now, staring at me +as I ate my dinner, and bringing up the other waiter to +look. I gave him a halfpenny, and I wish now that he +hadn’t taken it.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This episode of the author’s experience as a poor boy in +London was reproduced in “David Copperfield,” chapter +11. The dining-house mentioned then existed (1824) at No. +13 in the court, in a prominent corner position. It has +been unknown to fame for the last thirty years.</p> +<p>Returning by Drury Court to the Strand, and passing on the +south side of the church above mentioned, we turn by No. 162<span +class="smcap">a</span> into <i>Strand Lane</i>, where may be +visited, at No. 5, <b>The Old Roman Bath</b> referred to by David +Copperfield, who says, “In which I have had many a cold +plunge.” <a name="page11"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 11</span>(See chapter 35.) The bath +itself is lined with white marble, and dates from the sixteenth +century. It is supplied from an old Roman reservoir +adjoining, about 2000 years old.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p10.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Old Roman Bath" +title= +"The Old Roman Bath" +src="images/p10.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Passing Surrey Street, just beyond, we come (next on the +right) to <i>Norfolk Street</i>, in which there may be noted the +former whereabouts of <span class="smcap">Mrs. Lirriper’s +Lodgings</span>; and we may here recall the pleasant associations +connected with the Christmas numbers of <i>All the Year +Round</i>, 1863 and 1864. The houses in this street are not +enumerated beyond forty-five, all told. The figures 81, as +given in the tale referred to, should be <i>reversed</i>; but sad +to relate, No. 18—long standing as an old-fashioned +boarding-house on the western side, below Howard Street—has +disappeared, and certain modern buildings, offices, etc., +recently erected, now occupy the old site. At a short +distance farther on, in a central position in the Strand, stands +the church of <b>St. Clement Danes</b>. It is of interest +in this connection as the scene of Mrs. Lirriper’s wedding, +some forty years previous to the narration of her business +experience; and where she still retained “a sitting in a +very pleasant pew, with genteel company, and her own hassock, +being partial to evening service, not too crowded.”</p> +<p>Retracing our steps, three minutes, to the Church of St. +Mary-le-Strand, again leaving the Strand by <i>Newcastle</i> and +<i>Houghton Streets</i>, and turning left and right (leaving +Clare Market on the left), we shortly arrive at <i>Portsmouth +Street</i>, <i>Lincoln’s Inn Fields</i>. At No. 14 +will be found (for a short time only) a small old-fashioned +house, on the front of which is painted an inscription, +“<b>The Old Curiosity Shop</b>, <i>Immortalised by Charles +Dickens</i>,” now occupied by Mr. H. Poole, dealer in +wastepaper. This is said to be the house assigned by the +novelist for the residence of Little Nell and her grandfather, +with whose pathetic history we are all familiar—</p> +<blockquote><p>“One of those receptacles for old and +curious things, which seem to crouch in odd corners of this town, +and to hide their musty treasures from the public eye in jealousy +and distrust.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>It +cannot, however, be regarded as absolutely certain that this +particular house was the author’s intended “local +habitation” for one of the best-known and loved of his +creations. The tale itself concludes with a reference to +<i>Kit’s</i> uncertainty as to the whereabouts of the +place:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The old house had long ago been pulled +down, and a fine broad road was in its place. At first he +would draw with his stick a square upon the ground to show them +where it used to stand. But he soon became uncertain of the +spot, and could only say it was thereabouts, he thought, and that +these alterations were confusing.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>[A lady, personally acquainted with the great novelist, has +informed the author that she was once taken by Mr. Dickens to No. +10 Green Street (approaching Leicester Square from the +east)—at the corner of Green and Castle Streets, behind the +National Gallery—the business of curiosity-dealing being +then and there carried on. Mr. Dickens himself localised +this house as the home of little Nell, pointing out an inner +room—divided from the shop by a glass partition—as +her bedroom. The premises are now rebuilt.]</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p12.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Old Curiosity Shop" +title= +"The Old Curiosity Shop" +src="images/p12.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>At a short distance from this locality, and at an opposite +angle of the street, there existed (until 1898) one of the +old-fashioned taverns of the metropolis. The house was +noteworthy, with its overhanging front resting on rough wooden +pillars, and was named <i>Old George IVth</i>.</p> +<p>It is now replaced by a newly-built house of the same name, in +modern style of plate glass, mahogany, and glitter.</p> +<p>It is highly probable that the old tavern represented the +location and character of “<b>The Magpie and +Stump</b>,” the rendezvous of <i>Mr. Lowten</i> +(Perker’s clerk) and other choice spirits in the days of +Pickwick. It is described in the Pickwickian history as +being near Clare Market, at the back of New Inn, and to this +position the “Old George IVth” will correspond. +Joe Miller, of jocular celebrity, was, aforetime, a frequenter of +this establishment, when his quips “were wont to set the +table in a roar.” His seat was still shown in the bar +of the old house. Dickens and Thackeray were also well <a +name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>remembered as +visitors to this ancient hostelry. There is now a +“Magpie and Stump” in Fetter Lane, at some distance +hence; but it is evident that Dickens transferred the name to a +tavern in this neighbourhood. It will be remembered that +here Mr. Pickwick enjoyed an hour’s entertainment, +listening to the legends of “those curious old +nooks,” the Inns of London, as related by Jack +Bamber—see “Pickwick,” chapter 21—also +containing a description of the advertisements of the tavern, as +then displayed therein.</p> +<blockquote><p>“In the lower windows, which were decorated +with curtains of a saffron hue, dangled two or three printed +cards, bearing reference to Devonshire cyder and Dantzic spruce, +while a large black board, announcing in white letters to an +enlightened public, that there were 500,000 barrels of double +stout in the cellars of the establishment, left the mind in a +state of not unpleasing doubt and uncertainty as to the precise +direction in the bowels of the earth, in which this mighty cavern +might be supposed to extend.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>Dick Swiveller</i> would doubtless occasionally patronise +this establishment. He lodged hereabouts “in the +neighbourhood of Drury Lane;” but it is difficult to +indicate any particular house which Dickens may have selected for +his accommodation.</p> +<p>Stretching eastward from this point is <i>Portugal Street</i>, +famed in the same book as containing the <b>Old Public House</b> +patronised by Mr. Tony Weller and his <i>confrères</i> of +the coach-driving persuasion. This house—opposite the +Insolvent Debtors’ Court—existed until a few years +since, by name, “The Horse and Groom.” It and +many more besides, have now given place to a range of new offices +and buildings in Elizabethan style, on the south side of the +street (forming the north boundary of New Court), and the +Insolvent Court has been recently appropriated to the uses of the +Bankruptcy Court. It will be remembered that it was here +<i>Mr. Samuel Weller</i> got into difficulties, and was hence +consigned to the Fleet Prison at the instance of his father; the +professional services of the suave <i>Mr. Solomon Pell</i> being +retained on that occasion. Here also a select committee of +friends assembled to assist at an oyster lunch and the proving of +<a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>Mrs. +Weller’s will, when Mr. Pell again conducted the business +to the satisfaction of all concerned.—See +“Pickwick,” chapters 43 and 55.</p> +<p>Returning through Portsmouth Street, we come into +<i>Lincoln’s Inn Fields</i>; and, keeping on its western +side—passing Sardinia Street, with its old archway, on the +left—we may note <b>Mr. John Forster’s House</b>, +<b>No. 58</b>. At this house resided the friend and +biographer of Dickens, and here our author was, of course, a +frequent visitor. On December the 2nd, 1844, Charles +Dickens here first read his new Christmas book, “The +Chimes,” to a select and critical audience, including +Messrs. Forster, Maclise, Douglas Jerrold, Carlyle, Laman +Blanchard, Fox, Stanfield, Harness, and Dyce. The house is +itself described in the pages of “Bleak House” +(chapter 10) as the</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Residence of Mr. Tulkinghorn</span>.</p> +<blockquote><p>“In a large house, formerly a house of +state, lives Mr. Tulkinghorn. It is let off in sets of +chambers now; and in those shrunken fragments of its greatness, +lawyers lie, like maggots in nuts. But its roomy +staircases, passages, and antechambers still remain; and even its +painted ceiling, where Allegory in Roman helmet and celestial +linen sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers, clouds, and +big-legged boys, and makes the head ache, as would seem to be +Allegory’s object always, more or less.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>As in the time spoken of, the house is still in legal +possession, being let out as solicitors’ offices; but the +old Allegory has disappeared beneath modern whitewash. +Within two minutes’ distance northward, the weary rambler +may reach the central thoroughfare of <span +class="smcap">Holborn</span>, where (turning to the left), close +at hand, will be found the <i>Holborn Restaurant</i>, at which +Sam Weller’s advice on the subject of a “little +dinner” (or luncheon) may be worth practical +consideration:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Pair of fowls and a weal cutlet; French +beans, ’taturs, tart, and tidiness.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Certain it is that everything at this establishment will be +found “werry clean and comfortable,” on reasonable +terms.</p> +<h2><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>RAMBLE +II<br /> +<i>Lincoln’s Inn to the Mansion House</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Lincoln’s Inn Hall; “Jarndyce and +Jarndyce”—Old Square; Offices of Kenge and Carboy; +Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin—Bishop’s Court; Miss +Flite’s Lodging at Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse; +Nemo; Tony Weevle—The Old Ship Tavern; “The +Sol’s Arms”—Coavinses’ Castle—Mr. +Snagsby’s Residence, Took’s Court, Cursitor +Street—Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and +Gridley—Tellson’s Bank, Fleet Street—The +Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth Pinch and John Westlock); Garden +Court (Pip’s Chambers); Pump Court (Chambers of the elder +Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John Chester and Mr. +Stryver, K.C.)—Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and +Wrayburn—Bradley Headstone’s +Look-out—Clifford’s Inn; John Rokesmith and Mr. +Boffin—St. Dunstan’s Pump and Maypole Hugh—St. +Dunstan’s Church; “The Chimes”—Bradbury +and Evans, Bouverie Street—Office of the <i>Daily +News</i>—Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher’s +Rooms,–“Ye old Cheshire +Cheese”—Farringdon, formerly Fleet, +Market—Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller’s +Imprisonment—Belle Sauvage Yard—London Coffee House; +Arthur Clennam’s arrival—St. Paul’s +Churchyard—Dean’s Court—Doctors’ Commons; +Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins—“Bell +Tavern”—Wood Street; Coach Office at which Pip first +arrived—The London Stereoscopic Company; +“Grip,” the Raven—Bow Church—The +Guildhall; Bardell <i>v.</i> Pickwick—Grocers’ Hall +Court—The Mansion House; References in “Barnaby +Rudge,” “Christmas Carol,” and “Martin +Chuzzlewit”—“Dombey and Son.”</p> +<p>The Rambler now crosses Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and, on +its eastern side, enters the precincts of <i>Lincoln’s +Inn</i>, through an arched gateway, from Serle Street. +Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and Library on +the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at <a +name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>old +<b>Lincoln’s Inn Hall</b>, <span class="smcap">the Lord +High Chancellor’s Court</span>, with its central turret and +lantern, bearing the initials of the reigning Treasurer, 1818, +where Chancery suits were tried thirty years since. Here +that <i>cause célèbre</i>, <span +class="smcap">Jarndyce</span> and <span +class="smcap">Jarndyce</span>, dragged “its slow length +along” through the weary years, involving</p> +<blockquote><p>“Bills, cross-bills, answers, rejoinders, +injunctions, affidavits, issues, references to masters, +masters’ reports—mountains of costly +nonsense.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little <i>Miss +Flite</i>, in her squeezed bonnet, carrying “her +documents,” and</p> +<blockquote><p>“Always expecting some incomprehensible +judgment in her favour.”—See “Bleak +House,” chapter 1.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the +New Law Courts. Hard by, on the north, passing through the +cloisters of the Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn, we come into the +enclosure of <b>Old Square</b>, <span +class="smcap">Lincoln’s Inn</span>, where the <i>Offices of +Messrs. Kenge and Carboy</i> were situated. Esther +Summerson says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We passed into sudden quietude, under an +old gateway, and drove on through a silent square, until we came +to an odd nook in a corner, where there was an entrance up a +steep broad flight of stairs, like an entrance to a +church.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and +Co.’s offices used to flourish in the north-west corner, +where still the rising of the ground necessitates an exterior +flight of steps. The chambers of <i>Sergeant Snubbin</i>, +counsel for the defence in “Bardell <i>v.</i> +Pickwick,” were also located in this square, probably on +the opposite side.</p> +<p>Returning to Lincoln’s Inn, we may follow Esther +Summerson’s directions, and visit the apartments of <i>Miss +Flite</i>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Slipping us out of a little side gate, the +old lady stopped most unexpectedly in a narrow back street, part +of some courts and lanes immediately outside the wall of the inn, +and said, ‘This is my lodging. Pray walk +up!’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>Thus, +passing at the back of the Inn, and taking the next turning on +the left, we arrive at <b>Bishop’s Court</b>, near at hand, +a narrow, dark, and old passage leading to Chancery Lane. +On the left hand, nearest the Inn, was <i>Krook’s Rag and +Bottle Warehouse</i>, probably No. 3. But during recent +years, all the old houses of the court have been substituted by +modern buildings, offices, and shops; so that the location only +remains of the “Lord Chancellor,” and his place of +business, yclept by the neighbours the “Court of +Chancery.” The old shop, at one time, possessed the +private door and stairway leading to <i>Miss Flite’s +lodging</i>.</p> +<blockquote><p>“She lived at the top of the house, in a +pretty large room, from which she had a glimpse of the roof of +Lincoln’s Inn Hall.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise <i>Nemo</i>, the +law-writer, lived and died in a bare room on the second +floor. A notice may have been observed in the old shop +window, “Engrossing and Copying.” It will be +remembered that this room was afterwards occupied by <i>Mr. Tony +Weevle</i>, during whose tenancy it was decorated with a choice +collection of magnificent portraits, being—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Copper-plate impressions from that truly +national work, the Divinities of Albion, or Galaxy Gallery of +British Beauty; representing ladies of title and fashion, in +every variety of smirk, that art, combined with capital, is +capable of producing.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short +distance along Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of +<i>Chichester Rents</i>, a modern warehouse (No. 7), recently +erected on the site of “<b>The Old Ship Tavern</b>,” +now <i>non est</i>, named in the pages of “Bleak +House” <i>The Sol’s Arms</i>, it being the house at +which <i>the Inquest was held</i>, following the death of +<i>Nemo</i>, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the +proffered evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the +presiding coroner.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Can’t exactly say; won’t do, +you know. We can’t take that in a Court of Justice, +gentlemen. It’s terrible depravity. Put the boy +aside.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>The old +tavern has given place to the exigencies of modern commerce +(1897). The ghost of <i>Little Swills</i> may still linger +in the neighbourhood, but the musical evenings of the past are +silent, being now superseded by the prosaics of ordinary +business.</p> +<p>The real <span class="smcap">Sol’s Arms</span> still +exists, <i>No.</i> 65 <i>Hampstead Road</i>, <i>N.W.</i>, at the +corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol’s Row. +Its name was derived from the “Sol’s Society,” +whose meetings, held therein, were of a Masonic character. +It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the style and name +of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as +above.</p> +<p>Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite +the old gateway of Lincoln’s Inn, <b>Cursitor Street</b>, a +thoroughfare leading eastward from the Lane. It will be +noticed that the houses in this street are comparatively of +recent erection, and we may now look in vain for <span +class="smcap">Coavinses’ Castle</span>, which has been +swept away by the besom of modern destruction and +improvement. This old sponging-house flourished (in the +days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site +now occupied by <i>Lincoln’s Inn Chambers</i>, No. 1.</p> +<p>At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a +turning on the left to <i>Took’s Court</i>, referred to in +“Bleak House” as <i>Cook’s Court</i>, in which +was <b>Mr. Snagsby’s Residence</b> <span class="smcap">and +Law Stationer’s Shop</span>. The court is not a long +one, and consists mainly of offices connected with the legal +profession. The location of Mr. Snagsby’s shop was at +the central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by +modern offices and stores. “The little drawing-room +upstairs” is described as commanding</p> +<blockquote><p>“A view of Cook’s Court at one end +(not to mention a squint into Cursitor Street) and of +Coavins’s, the Sheriff’s Officer’s, backyard on +the other.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared <a +name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>for the +reception of the <i>Rev. Mr. Chadband</i> (Chaplain-in-Ordinary +to Mrs. Snagsby), who was “endowed with the gift of holding +forth for four hours at a stretch.” On that occasion, +it will be remembered that Poor Jo—brought to Cook’s +Court by a police constable—was eloquently addressed by the +reverend gentleman, but was not greatly edified by his +admonitions.</p> +<blockquote><p>“At this threatening stage of the discourse, +Jo, who seems to have been gradually going out of his mind, +smears his right arm over his face, and gives a terrible +yawn. Mrs. Snagsby indignantly expresses her belief that he +is a limb of the arch-fiend.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note +<i>Bream’s Buildings</i>, as being the northern boundary of +the former site of <b>Symond’s Inn</b>, which hence +extended onward to No. 22.</p> +<blockquote><p>“A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn, +like a large dust-bin of two compartments and a sifter. It +looks as if Symond were a sparing man in his day, and constructed +his inn of old building materials, which took kindly to the dry +rot, and to dirt, and all things decaying and dismal, and +perpetuated Symond’s memory with congenial +shabbiness.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position +being now occupied by a large printer’s establishment and +other offices. Readers of “Bleak House” will +remember that the professional chambers of <i>Mr. Vholes</i> were +here situated, and that <i>Richard Carstone</i> and his young +wife <i>Ada</i> resided in the next house, in order that Richard +might have his legal adviser close at hand. Here occurred +the early death of poor Richard; and we all cherish the +remembrance of dear Ada’s wifely devotion, to which +<i>Esther Summerson</i> thus refers:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The days when I frequented that miserable +corner which my dear girl brightened can never fade in my +remembrance. I never see it, and I never wish to see it +now; I have been there only once since; but in my memory there is +a mournful glory shining on the place, which will shine for +ever.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we +reach <a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +20</span><b>Bell Yard</b>, leading to Fleet Street. This +place has been mentioned by Dickens as containing a +“chandler’s shop, left-hand side,” where lodged +<i>Gridley</i>, “the man from Shropshire,” and +<i>Neckett</i>, the faithful servitor of Coavinses. The +name—Bell Yard—forms the heading of chapter 15, +“Bleak House,” which affords information of the +Neckett family—<i>Charlie</i>, <i>Tom</i>, and the +limp-bonneted <i>baby</i>. For full details, reference +should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written +chapter as above. Great alterations have been made, and are +still being made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the +New Law Courts in the immediate vicinity; but some of the older +houses still remain on the left-hand side of the way. Of +these, No. 9 is a small, tall, squeezed-looking house, about +half-way down the alley, and may be safely assigned (thirty years +since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs. Blinder.</p> +<p>Passing through Bell Yard, we reach <i>Fleet Street</i>, at +the point where once <span class="smcap">Temple Bar</span> gave +ancient entrance to the City. Its position is marked by a +bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath. +Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern +erection of <i>Child’s Bank</i>. This new building +dates from 1878, when the structure of old <i>Temple Bar</i> was +removed. It replaces one of the very old-fashioned houses +of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child carried on their +important banking business. This house is spoken of by +Dickens, in his “Tale of Two Cities,” as +<b>Tellson’s Bank</b>, on the outside of which the +mysterious <i>Mr. Cruncher</i> was usually in attendance as +“odd-job man, and occasional porter and +messenger.”</p> +<blockquote><p>“Tellson’s Bank, by Temple Bar, was an +old-fashioned place even in the year 1780. It was very +small, very dark, very ugly, very incommodious. Any one of +the partners would have disinherited his son on the question of +rebuilding Tellson’s. Thus it had come to pass that +Tellson’s was the triumphant perfection of +inconvenience. After bursting open a door of idiotic +obstinacy with a weak rattle in its throat, you fell into +Tellson’s, down two steps, and came to your senses in a +miserable little shop, with two little counters; where the oldest +of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it, while <a +name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>they examined +the signature by the dingiest of windows, which were always under +a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which were made the +dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of Temple +Bar.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p21.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Fountain Court, Temple" +title= +"Fountain Court, Temple" +src="images/p21.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Passing Newton’s (optician) we arrive at the outer +<b>Gate of the Temple</b>, by which we enter <i>Middle Temple +Lane</i>, following which a short distance and turning to the +right, by <i>Middle Temple Hall</i>, we reach <b>Fountain +Court</b>. The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a +central position, is associated with the history of <i>Ruth +Pinch</i>. Here it was that Tom and his sister made +appointments for meeting—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Because, of course, when she had to wait a +minute or two, it would have been very awkward for her to have +had to wait in any but a quiet spot; and that was as quiet a +spot, everything considered, as they could choose.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On further reference to the pages of “Martin +Chuzzlewit,” we may recall the auspicious occasion when +Ruth was under the special escort of <i>John +Westlock</i>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in +the sun, and merrily the idle drops of water danced and danced; +and, peeping out in sport among the trees, plunged lightly down +to hide themselves, as little Ruth and her companion came towards +it.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>See chapter 53. In <b>Garden Court</b> beyond, <i>Mr. +Pip</i> and his friend, <i>Herbert Pocket</i>, had +residence. In “Great Expectations,” he +says—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by +the river. We lived at the top of the last +house.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict +<i>Magwitch</i>, <i>alias Provis</i>, disclosed himself one +memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s” +discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary +accommodation was found for him at</p> +<blockquote><p>“A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back +of which looked into the Temple, and was almost within hail of +‘Pip’s’ windows.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may <a +name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>look in vain +for the actual chambers specified. Returning to <i>Middle +Temple Lane</i>, the visitor may walk directly across it to +<i>Elm Court</i>, and proceed through the same and a narrow +passage beyond, turning to the left, through <i>The +Cloisters</i>, which (left again) give into the central location +of <b>Pump Court</b>, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, +four storeys high. Here, in all probability, were situated +<span class="smcap">The Chambers</span> where <i>Tom Pinch</i> +was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, +by the eccentric <i>Mr. Fips</i>.</p> +<blockquote><p>“He led the way through sundry lanes and +courts, into one more quiet and gloomy than the rest; and, +singling out a certain house, ascended a common staircase . . . +stopping before a door upon an upper storey. . . . There +were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer one, a +narrow staircase leading to two more above.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here, also, old <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i> revealed himself to +the astonished Tom in his true character, and surprised the +virtuous <i>Mr. Pecksniff</i> by a “warm reception,” +when “the tables were turned completely upside +down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and +52.</p> +<p>Proceeding past <i>Lamb Buildings</i>, on the east side of the +Cloisters, and by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath +the <i>Inner Temple Dining-Hall</i>, we may note across the road +(right) a short range of substantial houses, known as <b>Paper +Buildings</b>, facing <i>King’s Bench Walk</i>, where it +will be remembered that <i>Sir John Chester</i> had his +residential chambers, no doubt selecting a central +position—say, at No. 3. Here at various times Mr. +Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden had +audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which +“overhaul the wollume”—“Barnaby +Rudge.”</p> +<p>In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of +<i>Mr. Stryver</i>, <i>K.C.</i>, where <i>Sydney Carton</i> +served as “jackal” to that “fellow of +delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two +Cities,” how Sydney</p> +<blockquote><p>“Having revived himself by twice pacing the +pavements of King’s Bench Walk and Paper Buildings, turned +into the Stryver Chambers.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +23</span>Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing +in front of the Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith’s +Buildings (right), which overlook the old burial-ground and the +tomb of the doctor. This surely is the “dismal +churchyard” referred to in “Our Mutual Friend” +as being closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood +and Wrayburn.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal +windows commanding that churchyard, until at the most dismal +window of them all, he saw a dismal boy, would in him have beheld +. . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer Lightwood.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>N.B.</i>—Note the last window on the left (second +floor), nearest the west wing, lately rebuilt.</p> +<p>Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner +Temple Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of +<b>Bradley Headstone’s</b> nightly watchings opposite this +point for the outgoings of <i>Mr. Eugene Wrayburn</i>, and the +many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as Eugene +enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense +of his unfortunate rival.</p> +<p>Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is +<b>Clifford’s Inn Passage</b>, into whose retirement <i>Mr. +Rokesmith</i>, the hero of “Our Mutual Friend,” +withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with <i>Mr. Boffin</i>, +when offering that gentleman his services as secretary.</p> +<p>Close at hand stands <b>St. Dunstan’s Church</b>, near +to which the pump was, but is not, from whose refreshing streams +“<i>Hugh</i>” (from the Maypole, Chigwell) sobered +himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to visiting Sir +John Chester at Paper Buildings. (<i>Vide</i> +“Barnaby Rudge,” chapter 40.) The old pump has +been replaced by a drinking-fountain.</p> +<p><i>Toby Veck</i> surely must have known that pump; for though +there is no precise location given by Dickens in “The +Chimes” for the church near to which Toby waited for jobs, +there is an etching by Stanfield in the original <a +name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>edition of +that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the counterfeit +presentment of St. Dunstan’s Tower.</p> +<p>Continuing the route, we pass <i>Bouverie Street</i> (Bradbury +and Evans—now Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street +were the publishers of several of the works of Dickens, +“The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving at +<i>Whitefriars’ Street</i> on the same side.</p> +<p>At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public <b>Office +of</b> “<b>The Daily News</b>.” This +influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under the +supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the +journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from +Italy.” Dickens shortly relinquished the editorship, +being succeeded by his friends Jerrold and Forster. The +fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the study of general or +party politics; but he always identified himself with “the +People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” +rather than “the people—spelt with a small p, who +govern.”</p> +<p>A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage +(left) from which, at a right angle riverwards, we may look into +<b>Hanging Sword Alley</b>, where Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, +messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments. These +“were very decently kept” by his wife, whose +“flopping” proclivities gave so much umbrage to +Jerry.</p> +<p>On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just +beyond, we turn (left) into <i>Wine Office Court</i>, and, on the +right, we arrive at “<b>Ye Olde Cheshire +Cheese</b>.” In “The Tale of Two Cities,” +Book 2, chapter 4, we read that <i>Charles Darnay</i>, being +acquitted of the charge of high treason, on his trial at the Old +Bailey, was persuaded by the young lawyer, <i>Sydney Carton</i>, +to dine in his company thereafter:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Drawing his arm through his own, he took +him down Ludgate Hill to Fleet Street, and so up a covered way +into a tavern.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a +noted resort with literary and legal men for more than a <a +name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>century +past. Here Doctor Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently +dined together in days gone by, gravely discoursing over their +punch afterwards; and, in more recent years, Thackeray, Dickens, +Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned among the customary +guests of the establishment. Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a +pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Let it be noted in candour that Law finds +its way to the ‘Cheese’ as well as Literature; but +the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant, and, consequently, +harmless order. Literary men who have been called to the +Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do not +object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of +retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the +landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to +Judge Blackstone when he wrote his +‘Commentaries’)—these make up the legal element +of the ‘Cheese.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor +attains <i>Ludgate Circus</i>, from which <i>Farringdon +Street</i> leads northward on the left. A short detour +along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge of the +Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of <i>Farringdon Market</i> +on the left side. Its position will recall the description +given in “Barnaby Rudge,” in whose days it was known +as <b>Fleet Market</b>,</p> +<blockquote><p>“At that time a long irregular row of wooden +sheds and penthouses occupying the centre of what is now called +Farringdon Street. . . . It was indispensable to most +public conveniences in those days that they should be public +nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained the principle to +admiration.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book +before mentioned—and passed a merry night in the midst of +congenial surroundings. Retracing our steps, we may note, +on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site of the old +<b>Fleet Prison</b>, on a part of which now stands the <span +class="smcap">Congregational Memorial Hall</span>. The +prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the +rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., +Belle Sauvage Yard. <a name="page26"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 26</span>Its last remaining walls were removed +in 1872, when the foundation-stone of the “Memorial +Hall” aforesaid was laid. Here was imprisoned our +amiable friend <i>Mr. Pickwick</i>, attended by his faithful Sam, +until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in +<i>re</i> Bardell <i>versus</i> Pickwick were by him fully paid +and satisfied.</p> +<p>Proceeding up <i>Ludgate Hill</i>, we may soon note the +<b>Belle Sauvage Yard</b> (turning by No. 68, on the left). +The old inn, with its central metropolitan coach-yard, sixty +years since occupied this site, where now the extensive printing +and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold benignant +sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of <i>Sam +Weller’s</i> anent the preparation of his father’s +marriage licence, as arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the +place being evidently regarded by that respected coachman as his +parochial headquarters in London—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘What is your name, sir?’ says +the lawyer. ‘Tony Weller,’ says my +father. ‘Parish?’ says the lawyer. +‘Belle Savage,’ says my father; for he stopped there +when he drove up, and he know’d nothing about parishes, +<i>he</i> didn’t.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its +olden style. In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two +courts, the outer one being approached from Ludgate Hill by the +present entrance, and the Belle Sauvage Inn forming a second +quadrangle, with an archway about half-way up from the main +entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard, +surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the +fashion of the times.</p> +<p>Passing onwards on the same side, past <i>Old Bailey</i>, we +arrive at the site of the <b>London Coffee Tavern</b>, No. 46 +Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the corner shop of Messrs. Hope +Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The old house was +pulled down in 1872. Here <i>Mr. Arthur Clennam</i> rested +awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and +by Dover coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one +dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in chapter 3 of “Little +Dorrit.” We now soon come to <a +name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span><b>St. +Paul’s Churchyard</b>, facing the dial by which <i>Ralph +Nickleby</i> corrected his watch on his way to the London Tavern, +no doubt “stepping aside” into No. +1—Dakin’s—“doorway” to do it; and +we may probably be disposed to endorse <i>John +Browdie’s</i> verdict with reference to St. Paul’s +Cathedral itself. “See there, lass, there be +Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he +be.” This locality is also mentioned in +“Barnaby Rudge” as being in the line of road taken by +<i>Lord George Gordon</i> when entering London with his friends +<i>en route</i> for his residence in Welbeck Street. On the +right, within a short distance, we come to <b>Dean’s +Court</b>, formerly <span class="smcap">Doctors’ +Commons</span>. This place is referred to by <i>Sam Weller</i> as +being in</p> +<blockquote><p>“St. Paul’s Churchyard—low +archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s at one corner, +hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as touts for +licences.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his +father’s having been here persuaded to take a marriage +licence, directing the lady’s name to be filled in on +speculation.</p> +<p>We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of +“David Copperfield.”</p> +<p><b>The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins</b> were situated in +this locality; but the site is now occupied by the Post Office +Savings’ Bank in <i>Knightrider Street</i>. Passing +through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s +(right), we cross <i>Carter Lane</i>, and proceed by a narrow +court, <i>Bell Yard</i>, to the street above mentioned. At +the corner of Carter Lane and Bell Yard is the “<i>Bell +Tavern</i>,” which it may be interesting to note, as a +house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in +preparation for David’s “choice of a +profession.” For full particulars the Rambler is +referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography.</p> +<p>It may also be remembered that the worthy <i>Mr. Boffin</i> +(see “Our Mutual Friend”), when instructing his +attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in his ideas relative to +this institution. In conversation with Mr. Lightwood, he +once <a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +28</span>referred to the same as a legal +personality—“<i>Doctor Scommons</i>!”</p> +<p>This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its +name and aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As +previously stated, it is now known as Dean’s Court. +In connection with its old associations, there exists <i>The +Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence +Office</i>, at the east corner of the court; and there are some +Proctors’ offices doing business, as in the days of +Copperfield, in the neighbourhood.</p> +<p>On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into +Cheapside, soon arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. +122), at <b>Wood Street</b>. Associated with “Great +Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn” +(“<i>The Castle</i>,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip +arrived when first visiting London, in accordance with +instructions received per <i>Mr. Jaggers</i>.</p> +<p>Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach +the well-known establishment of the <b>London Stereoscopic +Company</b>, No. 54. It may be interesting to know that +this firm possesses the stuffed original of +“<i>Grip</i>,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that +received a double passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the +particulars of its decease, and Maclise having sketched its +apotheosis. This relic, so intimately associated with the +tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public +sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its +photographic portrait may be now obtained at this address.</p> +<p>A few steps farther on the same side stands the old <b>Church +of St. Mary-le-Bow</b>, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to +fame and fortune. These same bells are mentioned in the +history of “Dombey and Son,” chapter 4, as being +within hearing at the offices of that important firm.</p> +<p>Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the +thoroughfare, we arrive at King Street (turning by No. 92), at +the top of which is <b>The Guildhall</b>. In the City Court +attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of promise of +marriage, <a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +29</span>“Bardell <i>v.</i> Pickwick,” was contested, +on which occasion <i>Mr. Weller</i>, <i>senr.</i>, emphatically +insisted (from the body of the Court) on Sam’s spelling his +name with a “we,” and afterwards much deplored the +absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick’s +behalf—“Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn’t there a +alleybi?” Are not all these and other particulars +written in the chronicles of the “Pickwick +Papers”?—See chapter 34.</p> +<p>Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse +direction of the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), +we come into the <b>Poultry</b>, at the farther end, passing a +turning on the left therefrom, known as <span +class="smcap">Grocers’ Hall Court</span>. It will be +remembered that on one occasion when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet +glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller, whose “knowledge of +London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from the +Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to +the last house but one on the same side of the way, where he +directed his master to</p> +<blockquote><p>“Take the box as stands in the first +fireplace, ’cos there a’n’t no leg in the +middle of the table.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find +that this house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, +but it is recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the +old-fashioned sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here +introduced to his son’s patron, and thereupon arranged for +Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich. At the end of the +Poultry we next approach, on the right, <b>The Mansion House</b>, +mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the +Mayor of London. We read of this civic potentate in the +pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when, one Christmas +Eve,</p> +<blockquote><p>“The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the +mighty Mansion House, gave orders to his fifty cooks and butlers +to keep Christmas as a Lord Mayor’s household +should.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>Mark Tapley</i> also—in America—once made +jocose reference <a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +30</span>to this location. When speaking of Queen Victoria, +he informed certain members of the Watertoast Association to the +following effect:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, +with the Lord Mayor at the Mansion House, but don’t often +occupy them, in consequence of the parlour chimney +smoking.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Messrs. Dombey and Son</b> had their offices in the City, +within the sound of Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion +House. Their position was probably in proximity to <i>The +Royal Exchange</i>, but the address cannot be definitely +indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, +and schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the +prosperity of the house.</p> +<p>The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the +thriving establishment of the well-known merchant +tailors—<span class="smcap">Dombey & +Son</span>—will be found at No. 120 <i>Cheapside</i>, at +which a large and well-conducted business is carried on.</p> +<p>From this point we may conveniently visit “His +Lordship’s Larder” (at three minutes’ +distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh, +“rest, and be thankful.”</p> +<h2><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>RAMBLE +III<br /> +<i>Charing Cross to Thavies Inn</i>, <i>Holborn Circus</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">South-Eastern Terminus—Spa Road +Station—Jacob’s Island; Sykes’s last +Refuge—Butler’s Wharf, formerly Quilp’s +Wharf—Quilp’s House, Tower Hill—Trinity House +and Garden; Bella Wilfer’s Waiting-place—Southwark +Bridge; Little Dorrit’s Promenade—The General Post +Office—Falcon Hotel, Falcon Square; John Jasper’s +patronage—Little Britain; Office of Mr. +Jaggers—Smithfield—Newgate Prison; Pip’s +description in “Great Expectations”—The Old +Bailey Criminal Court, as per “Tale of Two +Cities”—The Saracen’s Head; Associations with +Nicholas Nickleby—Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his +Companions—Scene of the Robbery—Line of Route taken +by Oliver and “The Artful Dodger” from the Angel to +Saffron Hill—Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of +Mr. Fang—Great Saffron Hill and Field +Lane—Fagin’s House and the “Three +Cripples”—Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and +Clennam; the Plornish Family—Ely Place—Thavies Inn; +Mrs. Jellyby’s Residence.</p> +<p>From the <span class="smcap">South-Eastern Terminus</span> at +Charing Cross there are frequent trains by which the Rambler can +travel to <i>Spa Road Station</i>, <i>Bermondsey</i> (about +twenty minutes’ ride), from which point the situation of +what was once Jacob’s Island may be conveniently +visited. This place was associated with the adventures of +<i>Oliver Twist</i>, being the last refuge to which <i>Sykes</i>, +the murderer of <i>Nancy</i>, betook himself on his return to +London, and where he met a righteous retribution when attempting +his escape. It is described by Dickens—nearly sixty +years since—as being</p> +<blockquote><p>“Near to that part of the Thames on which +the church at Rotherhithe abuts, where the buildings on the banks +are dirtiest, and the vessels on the river blackest, with the +dust of colliers and the smoke of close-built, low-roofed +houses. In such a neighbourhood, beyond Dockhead, in the +borough of Southwark, stands Jacob’s Island, <a +name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>surrounded by +a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or twenty wide +when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in the days +of this story as Folly Ditch.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Arriving at <i>Spa Road</i>, the explorer turns left and right +by the short routes of <i>West Street South</i>, <i>Fream +Street</i>, and <i>Rouel Road</i>, into <i>Jamaica Road</i> (five +minutes from station); passing from the opposite side of which, +through <i>Parker’s Row</i> to the thoroughfare of +<i>Dockhead</i>, he will find himself face to face with a tavern +on the north side, named “The Swan and Sugar +Loaf.” A short cut on the right of this house leads +immediately to <span class="smcap">London Street</span>, its +northern side forming the south boundary of the old site of +<b>Jacob’s Island</b>. <i>Folly Ditch</i>, flowing +from the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through +London Street (it has been filled in since 1851); and in these +streets wooden bridges crossed to the Island, and “crazy +wooden galleries, common to the backs of half-a-dozen +houses”—referred to by the novelist—used to +“ornament the banks of Folly Ditch.” To the +right we pass into <i>George Row</i>, enclosing Jacob’s +Island (east), and may note <i>en passant</i> the blocks of +workmen’s dwellings, erected 1883, named +“Wolseley’s Buildings,” which occupy the site +of the old Island on its eastern side. From George Row we +turn (right) into <i>Jacob Street</i>, north of the Island, by +which we come into <i>Mill Street</i> (west); again returning to +<i>London Street</i>, and so completing the circumnavigation of +this interesting locality. Some of the old wooden erections +still exist in <i>Farthing Alley</i>, <i>Halfpenny Alley</i>, and +<i>Edward Street</i>, which intersect the area. In his +preface to the first cheap edition of “Oliver Twist,” +the author makes a further reference, as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In the year one thousand eight hundred and +fifty, it was publicly declared in London by an amazing alderman, +that Jacob’s Island did not exist, and never had +existed. Jacob’s Island continues to exist (like an +ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight hundred +and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Starting westward from “The Swan and Sugar Loaf,” +we now proceed through <i>Thornton Street</i>, and turn to the <a +name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>right, by one +block in the street beyond, into <i>Queen Street</i>, which leads +directly north to the riverside. At the end of this street +is the locality of <b>Quilp’s Wharf</b> and place of +business, aforetime described in the pages of “The Old +Curiosity Shop”:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in +which were a little wooden counting-house, burrowing all awry in +the dust as if it had fallen from the clouds, and ploughed into +the ground; a few fragments of rusty anchors, several large iron +rings, some piles of rotten wood, and two or three heaps of old +sheet copper—crumpled, cracked, and battered.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The place has been altogether altered and improved during the +last forty years, and is now known as “Butler’s +Wharf,” but the original prototype of Quilp is still +remembered by some of the older residents of the +neighbourhood.</p> +<p>The westward route being continued by the side of the river, +we walk through <i>Shad Thames</i> and <i>Pickle Herring +Street</i> (underneath an archway) to <i>Vine Street</i>, where +is the southern entrance of the <i>Tower Subway</i>, by which we +may cross below the river to the other side. Emerging near +the Tower, <b>Quilp’s House</b>, on Tower Hill, is near at +hand. No. 6 Tower Dock, facing the public entrance to the +Tower, is said to have comprised the lodging assigned by Dickens +for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Quilp and Mrs. +Jiniwin. We may here recall the matrons’ tea-meeting, +as described in chapter 4 of “The Old Curiosity +Shop,” when Quilp’s conduct as a husband was freely +discussed, and much good advice tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the +true assertion of her rights and dignity. Also the notable +occasion when, the master of the house being missing and thought +to be drowned, <i>Mr. Sampson Brass</i> was in consultation, and +the party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a +descriptive advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, +as lively and sarcastic as ever.</p> +<blockquote><p>“A question now arises with regard to his +nose. ‘Flat,’ said Mrs. Jiniwin. +‘Aquiline!’ cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and +striking <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +34</span>the feature with his fist. ‘Aquiline, you +hag. Do you see it? Do you call this flat? Do +you? Eh?’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Hard by this locality stands <b>Trinity House</b>, <b>Tower +Hill</b>, with its garden in front, and it may be remembered that +<i>Mr. Wilfer</i> suggested this neighbourhood as a waiting-place +for Bella, on the occasion of their “innocent +elopement” to Greenwich, while he should array himself in +new garments at her expense, to do honour to the +expedition. We now turn westward by <i>Tower Street</i>, +and may save time by taking train at <i>Mark Lane Station</i> for +the Mansion House, about ten minutes’ ride. On +arrival at the Mansion House Station we shall find <i>Queen +Street</i> close at hand, leading riverwards to <b>Southwark +Bridge</b>, referred to in “Little Dorrit” as the +Iron Bridge. This was Amy Dorrit’s favourite +promenade, it being quieter than many of the neighbouring +thoroughfares; and we may recall the scene when young <i>John +Chivery</i> was obliged to take no for an answer, when he +attempted the proffer of his hand and heart.</p> +<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Cannon Street</i>, we turn to +the right through <i>St. Paul’s Churchyard</i>, crossing +Cheapside to the stately edifice of the <b>General Post +Office</b>, <i>St. Martin’s-le-Grand</i>. This +building, in the times of “Nicholas Nickleby,” +occasioned honest John Browdie some surprise:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Wa-at dost thee tak’ yon place to be, +noo, that ’un ower the wa’? Ye’d never +coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths. It’s +na but a Poast-office. Ho, ho! they need to charge for +double latthers. A Poast-office! What dost thee think +of that? Ecod, if that’s on’y a Poast-office, +loike to see where the Lord Mayor o’ Lunnon +lives!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>Aldersgate Street</i> leads northward from St. +Martin’s-le-Grand; passing the first block in which, +<i>Falcon Street</i> turns on the right (No. 16) towards +<i>Falcon Square</i>, a small city piazza, where may be found +(No. 8) <b>The Falcon Hotel</b>. This is the place at which +John Jasper sojourned when visiting London. In “The +Mystery of Edwin Drood” we read the following commendation +of the house in question:—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +35</span>“It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at +its visitor’s option. It announces itself, in the new +Railway advertisers, as a novel enterprise, timidly beginning to +spring up. It bashfully, almost apologetically, gives the +traveller to understand that it does not expect him, on the good +old constitutional hotel plan, to order a pint of sweet blacking +for his drinking, and throw it away; but insinuates that he may +have his boots blacked instead of his stomach, and may also have +bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all night, for a +certain fixed charge.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the +opposite turning, leading to Smithfield, is <i>Little +Britain</i>. In “Great Expectations” we learn +that the <b>Offices of Mr. Jaggers</b>, the Old Bailey lawyer, +were here situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but +the house cannot be precisely indicated. Here <i>Mr. +Wemmick</i> assisted his Principal in the details of his +professional business. He may be remembered as having a +decided preference for “portable property.”</p> +<p>Proceeding onward by <i>Duke Street</i>, the visitor will +shortly come into <b>Smithfield</b>, a locality which is +considerably changed since the days when Pip first arrived in +London. He says—</p> +<blockquote><p>“When I told the clerk that I would take a +turn in the air while I waited, he advised me to go round the +corner and I should come into Smithfield. So I came into +Smithfield; and the shameful place, being all asmear with filth, +and fat, and blood, and foam, seemed to stick to me. So, I +rubbed it off with all possible speed by turning into a street +where I saw the great black dome of Saint Paul’s bulging at +me from behind a grim stone building which a bystander said was +Newgate Prison.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Adopting the same line of route, the Rambler may pass the +south front of the Metropolitan Meat Market, turning to the left +by St. Bartholomew’s Hospital into <i>Giltspur Street</i>, +which leads to Newgate Street, and faces on the opposite corner +of Old Bailey <b>Newgate Prison</b>. In “Great +Expectations,” Pip describes his visit to the interior, at +the invitation and in the company of Mr. Wemmick:—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +36</span>“We passed through the Lodge, where some fetters +were hanging up, on the bare walls among the prison rules, into +the interior of the jail. At that time jails were much +neglected, and the period of exaggerated reaction consequent on +all public wrong-doing—and which is always its longest and +heaviest punishment—was still far off. So, felons +were not lodged and fed better than soldiers (to say nothing of +paupers), and seldom set fire to their prisons with the excusable +object of improving the flavour of their soup. It was +visiting-time when Wemmick took me in, and a potman was going his +rounds with beer, and the prisoners behind bars in yards were +buying beer and talking to friends; and a frowsy, ugly, +disorderly, depressing scene it was.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Again, it may be remarked that things have much improved since +the good old days. <i>Inter alia</i>, the principles and +rules of prison management and discipline have greatly changed +for the better.</p> +<p>In the tale of “Barnaby Rudge” is the narrative of +the burning of Newgate and the liberation of the prisoners by the +rioters (1780), on which occasion it will be remembered that our +old friend Gabriel Varden was somewhat roughly handled. For +full particulars, see chapter 64.</p> +<p>Immediately south of Newgate is the adjacent Central Criminal +Court of <b>The Old Bailey</b>, the scene of Charles +Darnay’s trial in “The Tale of Two +Cities.” At the time there described +(1775)—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The Old Bailey was famous as a kind of +deadly Inn yard, from which pale travellers set out continually, +in carts and coaches, on a violent passage to the other world, +traversing some two miles and a half of public street and road, +and shaming few good citizens, if any. So powerful is use, +and so desirable to be good use in the beginning. It was +famous, too, for the pillory, a wise old institution, that +inflicted a punishment of which no one could foresee the extent; +also for the whipping-post, another dear old institution, very +humanising and softening to behold in action; also for extensive +transactions in blood-money, another fragment of ancestral +wisdom.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Facing eastward from Newgate Street is the <i>Holborn +Viaduct</i>, which has for many years superseded the old +ascending and descending road of Holborn Hill.</p> +<p><b>The Saracen’s Head</b>, the old coaching-house on +Snow Hill, with which we have been familiar from the days of <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +37</span>“Nicholas Nickleby,” as the headquarters of +Mr. Squeers, has disappeared since 1868, having been pulled down +long ago, with many other buildings of this neighbourhood, giving +room to the great improvements which have taken place in this +part of London. Hereabouts it stood, on a lower level, not +far from St. Sepulchre’s Church—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Just on that particular part of Snow Hill +where omnibus horses going eastward seriously think of falling +down on purpose, and horses in hackney cabriolets going westward +not unfrequently fall by accident.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The present <i>Police Station</i>, Snow Hill, stands on part +of the site formerly occupied by this old hostelry.</p> +<p>This modern thoroughfare of Snow Hill commences at the first +turning on the right, in which has been erected a commodious +hotel of the same name (No. 10), where, by the aid of a little +refreshment and a slight exercise of imagination, we may recall +the departure of Nicholas for Dotheboy’s Hall, Greta +Bridge, by the Yorkshire coach, with Mr. Squeers and the pupils; +also the later arrival in London of Mr. and Mrs. Browdie, +accompanied by the lovely Fanny as bridesmaid, and the first +meeting of Nicholas with Frank Cheeryble, newly returned from +Continental travel.</p> +<p>Snow Hill leads to the lower level of <i>Farringdon Road</i>, +at a point immediately north of the Holborn Viaduct spanning the +thoroughfare, in which, turning to the right, we walk onwards to +the intersection of <i>Clerkenwell Road</i> (eight minutes’ +work). On the right hand, across the railway, is +<b>Clerkenwell Green</b>, referred to in “Oliver +Twist” as</p> +<blockquote><p>“That open square in Clerkenwell which is +yet called by some strange perversion of terms The +Green.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It was near this place that little Oliver became enlightened +as to the business of Charley Bates and the Artful Dodger. +We read that the boys, traversing a narrow court in this +neighbourhood, came out opposite a bookstall, where Mr. Brownlow +was reading, abstracted from all other mundane considerations, so +affording “a prime plant” for the <a +name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>operations of +these light-fingered gentlemen. This court leads from the +road opposite the Sessions House into <i>Pear Tree Court</i>, +giving into the main road at some distance beyond, at which the +scene above referred to was enacted.</p> +<p>Walking onwards by the <i>King’s Cross Road</i> we soon +come to the point where <i>Exmouth Street</i> joins it from the +east, facing the south-east angle of the House of +Correction. Here we strike into the route taken by Oliver +Twist when he first came from Barnet to London, under the escort +of <i>Mr. John Dawkins</i>. The text of the story is as +follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They crossed from the ‘Angel’ +into St. John’s Road, struck down the small street which +terminates at Sadler’s Wells Theatre, through Exmouth +Street and Coppice Row, down the little court by the side of the +Workhouse, across the classic ground which once bore the name of +Hockley-in-the-Hole, thence into Little Saffron Hill, and so into +Saffron Hill the Great.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Following the line thus indicated from Exmouth Street, we come +on the south side of the Workhouse, nearly opposite Little +Saffron Hill, which leads into <i>Great Saffron Hill</i> as +above. Crossing <i>Clerkenwell Road</i>, and proceeding for +a short distance down Great Saffron Hill, we arrive at the cross +street of <i>Hatton Wall</i>, in which, past two doors to the +left on the south side, will be found—between the <i>Hat +and Tun Inn</i> and No. 17 beyond—the entrance of <span +class="smcap">Hatton Yard</span>, a long narrow lane or mews +(leading to <i>Kirby Street</i>), occupied by carmen and +stabling. In this eligible position was situated, some +fifty years since, “the very notorious <b>Metropolitan +Police Court</b>” to which Oliver Twist was taken on the +charge of theft; and we may here recall the administration of the +presiding magistrate, the notable Mr. Fang, as shown in the +examination of the prisoner.</p> +<p>The premises (No. 9, on the left) once formed part and parcel +of the police court referred to; but the arrangements of the +neighbourhood have been subjected to much alteration during the +last half century. Mr. Forster states that Dickens +“had himself a satisfaction in admitting the <a +name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>identity of +Mr. Fang, in ‘Oliver Twist,’ with Mr. Laing of Hatton +Garden.” In a letter (now in possession of Mr. S. R. +Goodman, of Brighton) written to Mr. Haines, Reporter, June 3rd, +1838, Dickens writes as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In my next number of ‘Oliver +Twist’ I must have a magistrate; and, casting about for a +magistrate whose harshness and insolence would render him a fit +subject to be <i>shown up</i>, I have as a necessary consequence +stumbled upon Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden celebrity. I know +the man’s character perfectly well; but as it would be +necessary to describe his personal appearance also, I ought to +have seen him, which (fortunately or unfortunately as the case +may be) I have never done. In this dilemma it occurred to +me that perhaps I might under your auspices be smuggled into the +Hatton Garden office for a few moments some morning. If you +can further my object I shall be really very greatly obliged to +you.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>“The opportunity was found; the magistrate was brought +up before the novelist; and shortly after, on some fresh outbreak +of intolerable temper, the Home Secretary found it an easy and +popular step to remove Mr. Laing from the Bench.”</p> +<p>Returning to <span class="smcap">Great Saffron Hill</span>, we +may recall its description as given in the days of “Oliver +Twist”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The street was very narrow and muddy, and +the air was impregnated with filthy odours. The sole places +that seemed to prosper amid the general blight of the place were +the public-houses, and in them the lowest orders of the Irish +were wrangling with might and main. Covered ways and yards, +which here and there diverged from the main street, disclosed +little knots of houses where drunken men and women were +positively wallowing in filth.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Field Lane</b>, in the immediate vicinity, <i>was</i></p> +<blockquote><p>“Near to that spot on which Snow Hill and +Holborn Hill meet . . a narrow dismal alley leading to Saffron +Hill. In its filthy shops are exposed for sale huge bunches +of second-hand silk handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns, for +here reside the traders who purchase them from the +pickpockets.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This place has been effaced by the Holborn Valley +improvements, and we may now look in vain for the precise +locality of the house of <i>Fagin</i> the Jew. In this <a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>neighbourhood +also was situated “The Three Cripples,” a +public-house of evil repute patronised by Sykes, Fagin, and +Monks. We may recall the circumstance of <i>Mr. Morris +Bolter’s</i> (<i>alias</i> Noah Claypole’s) arrival +at this house, when he and <i>Charlotte</i> first came to London, +and of his subsequent interview with the wily Jew.</p> +<p>It is pleasant to remark that Saffron Hill has greatly +improved in its character since the above-quoted description was +correct. It now affords accommodation for the headquarters +of the <i>Central Shoeblacks’ Society</i> (as established +under the auspices of the late Earl of Shaftesbury), and about +midway in the street where thieves “did once +inhabit,” a large <i>Board School</i> is doing good +educational service for the elevation of the humbler classes.</p> +<p>Turning from Great Saffron Hill westward by the <i>One Tun</i> +public-house, we come into <i>Charles Street</i>, on the south +side of which, towards Hatton Garden, is <b>Bleeding Hart +Yard</b> (entrance by the Bleeding Hart Tavern, No. 19). +This locality is associated with the tale of “Little +Dorrit.” It will be remembered that here the factory +of <i>Messrs. Doyce and Clennam</i> was situated, and here also +resided <i>Mr. and Mrs. Plornish</i>, the humble friends of the +Dorrit family. In these degenerate days the place has much +altered, and the amiable <i>Mr. Casby</i> would certainly find it +more difficult than ever to collect his weekly dues, even by the +agency of his energetic assistant, Mr. Pancks.</p> +<p>Passing from this unpretending locality, we come (at No. 8) +into <i>Hatton Garden</i>, which leads southward to <i>Holborn +Circus</i>.</p> +<p>In Hatton Garden, on the east side, can be observed (No. 20) +the old-established warehouse of <b>Messrs. Rowland and +Son</b>. In this connection there may be remembered the mad +old gentleman “in small clothes,” who lived next door +to the <i>Nicklebys</i>, at Bow. On the only occasion of +his visiting the family indoors, he incidentally referred to +“Mrs. Rowland, who, every <a name="page41"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 41</span>morning, bathes in Kalydor for +nothing.”—See “Nicholas Nickleby,” +chapter 49.</p> +<p><b>Mr. Waterbrook’s</b> establishment, situated in +<i>Ely Place</i>, <i>Holborn</i>, is entitled to passing mention +as the place where David and his friend Traddles met each other +for the first time after their schoolboy days, on the occasion of +a dinner-party, at which also <i>Agnes Wickfield</i> and <i>Uriah +Heep</i> attended. Ely Place is situated on the north side +of <span class="smcap">Holborn Circus</span>, and once comprised +the rose garden of the Bishop of Ely, afterwards leased to Sir +Christopher Hatton.</p> +<p>On the opposite side of the Circus, and near to St. +Andrew’s Church, is situated <b>Thavies Inn</b>, in which +<i>Mrs. Jellyby</i> and family resided, in the days when her +daughter <i>Caddy</i> acted as amanuensis <i>in re</i> the +affairs of Borrioboola-Gha.</p> +<p>It is described in “Bleak House” as being</p> +<blockquote><p>“A narrow street of high houses like an +oblong cistern to hold the fog.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The house No. 13, on the right, has been indicated as once the +disorderly residence of the Jellyby family. We may +recollect it as the place where <i>Esther Summerson</i> and +<i>Ada</i> were accommodated for their first night in London, on +which occasion little unfortunate <i>Peepy</i> was found with his +head between the area railings, and the house generally turned +upside down; while Mrs. Jellyby serenely dictated her +correspondence in the family sitting-room, altogether oblivious +of such minor domestic accidents.</p> +<p>Esther thus narrates her first impressions:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mrs. Jellyby had very good hair, but was +too much occupied with her African duties to brush it. The +shawl in which she had been loosely muffled dropped on to her +chair, when she advanced towards us; and, as she turned to resume +her seat, we could not help noticing that her dress didn’t +nearly meet up the back, and that the open space was railed +across with a lattice work of staylace—like a summer house. +. . . ‘You find me, my dears,’ said Mrs. +Jellyby, ‘as usual, very busy; but that you will +excuse. The African project at present employs my whole +time. . . . We hope by this time next year to have from a +hundred <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +42</span>and fifty to two hundred healthy families cultivating +coffee and educating the natives of Borrioboola-Gha, on the left +bank of the Niger.”—See “Bleak House,” +chapter 4.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>The Buffet of Messrs. Spiers and Pond</i> will be found a +short distance eastward from Holborn Circus, on the right, next +the terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover railway. A +visit to its welcome “contiguity of shade” is +confidently recommended to those who may be disposed for +necessary rest and refreshment.</p> +<h2><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>RAMBLE +IV<br /> +<i>Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court Road</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Langdale’s +Distillery—Barnard’s Inn; Pip’s +Chambers—Furnival’s Inn; Dickens’s and John +Westlock’s Apartments—Staple Inn; Mr. +Grewgious’s Chambers, P.J.T.; Rooms of Neville Landless and +Mr. Tartar; “The Magic Bean-Stalk +Country”—Gray’s Inn; Mr. and Mrs. Traddles and +“the girls;” Offices of Mr. Perker—The Bull +Inn; Scene of Lewsome’s Illness—Kingsgate Street; +Poll Sweedlepipe’s Shop; Sairey Gamp’s +Apartments—Mrs. Billickin’s Lodgings in Southampton +Street; Miss Twinkleton and Rosa Budd—Bloomsbury Square; +Lord Mansfield’s Residence—Queen Square—The +Children’s Hospital; Johnny’s Will—Foundling +Hospital; “No Thoroughfare;” Walter +Wilding—“The Boot Tavern”—No. 48 Doughty +Street—Tavistock House, Tavistock Square—Mrs. +Dickens’s Establishment, No. 4 Gower Street, North; Mrs. +Wilfer’s Doorplate—No. 1 Devonshire Terrace—Mr. +Merdle’s House, Harley Street—Mr. Dombey’s +House—Madame Mantalini’s, Wigmore +Street—Wimpole Street; Mr. Boffin’s West-end +Residence—Welbeck Street; Lord George Gordon’s +Residence—Brook Street, Claridge’s Hotel; Mr. +Dorrit’s Return—Devonshire House; Guild of Literature +and Art—Hatchett’s Hotel; White Horse Cellars; Mr. +Guppy in attendance—193 Piccadilly; Messrs. Chapman and +Hall—Golden Square; Ralph Nickleby’s +Office—Apartments of the Kenwigs family—The Crown +Inn—“Martha’s” Lodgings—Newman +Street; Mr. Turveydrop’s Academy—Carlisle House; +Doctor Manette and Lucie.</p> +<p>From <span class="smcap">Holborn Circus</span> the Rambler now +proceeds westward by the main thoroughfare of <i>Holborn</i>, +passing <i>Fetter Lane</i> on the left, and arrives at (No. 26) +the old premises, now partially rebuilt, formerly +<b>Langdale’s Distillery</b>. Half of the same +remains (at the moment), but will shortly be superseded by a +modern building. The eastern portion is occupied by Messrs. +<a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>Buchanan, +whisky merchants, who have recently purchased the premises. +This establishment was sacked (1780) by the Gordon rioters. +Mr. Langdale being a Catholic, was obnoxious to the No-Popery +mob; and the stores of liquor at this distillery afforded an +additional temptation for the attack. The terrible scenes +enacted on the occasion are powerfully described in +“Barnaby Rudge,” chapters 67 and 68—</p> +<blockquote><p>“At this place a large detachment of +soldiery were posted, who fired, now up Fleet Market, now up +Holborn, now up Snow Hill—constantly raking the streets in +each direction. At this place too, several large fires were +burning, so that all the terrors of that terrible night seemed to +be concentrated in one spot.</p> +<p>“Full twenty times, the rioters, headed by one man who +wielded an axe in his right hand, and bestrode a brewer’s +horse of great size and strength, caparisoned with fetters taken +out of Newgate, which clanked and jingled as he went, made an +attempt to force a passage at this point, and fire the +vintner’s house. Full twenty times they were repulsed +with loss of life, and still came back again; and though the +fellow at their head was marked and singled out by all, and was a +conspicuous object as the only rioter on horseback, not a man +could hit him. . . .</p> +<p>“The vintner’s house, with half-a-dozen others +near at hand, was one great, glowing blaze. All night, no +one had essayed to quench the flames, or stop their progress; but +now a body of soldiers were actively engaged in pulling down two +old wooden houses, which were every moment in danger of taking +fire, and which could scarcely fail, if they were left to burn, +to extend the conflagration immensely.</p> +<p>“. . . The gutters of the street, and every crack +and fissure in the stones, ran with scorching spirit, which being +dammed up by busy hands, overflowed the road and pavement, and +formed a great pool, into which the people dropped down dead by +dozens. They lay in heaps all round this fearful pond, +husbands and wives, fathers and sons, mothers and daughters, +women with children in their arms and babies at their breasts, +and drank until they died. While some stooped with their +lips to the brink and never raised their heads again, others +sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced, half in a mad +triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell, +and steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them. . . +.</p> +<p>“On this last night of the great riots—for the +last night it was—the wretched victims of a senseless +outcry, became themselves the dust and ashes of the flames they +had kindled, and strewed the public streets of London.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>It will +be remembered that Mr. Langdale and Mr. Haredale, being in the +house that night, were rescued by Edward Chester and Joe Willett, +all four finding their way to safety by a back entrance.</p> +<blockquote><p>“The narrow lane in the rear was quite free +of people. So, when they had crawled through the passage +indicated by the vintner (which was a mere shelving-trap for the +admission of casks), and had managed with some difficulty to +unchain and raise the door at the upper end, they emerged into +the street without being observed or interrupted. Joe still +holding Mr. Haredale tight, and Edward taking the same care of +the vintner, they hurried through the streets at a rapid +pace.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This door gives into Fetter Lane (No. 79), and still exists +for the inspection of the curious. The old house in Holborn +has, for more than a century, replaced the premises so +destroyed. Close at hand (by No. 23) is the entrance to +<b>Barnard’s Inn</b>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The dingiest collection of shabby buildings +ever squeezed together in a rank corner as a club for +tom-cats.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The locality is referred to in these complimentary terms by +Mr. Pip (in the pages of “Great Expectations”), who +lived here with his friend Herbert Pocket for a short time when +he first came to London. Mr. Joe Gargery’s verdict is +worth remembrance:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The present may be a wery good inn, and I +believe its character do stand i; but I wouldn’t keep a pig +in it myself, not in the case that I wished him to fatten +wholesome, and to eat with a meller flavour on him.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Pip further describes as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We entered this haven through a +wicket-gate, and were disgorged by an introductory passage into a +melancholy little square that looked to me like a flat +burying-ground. I thought it had the most dismal trees in +it, and the most dismal sparrows, and the most dismal cats, and +the most dismal houses (in number half-a-dozen or so), that I had +ever seen. . . . A frowzy mourning of soot and smoke +attired this forlorn creation of Barnard, and it had strewed +ashes on its head, and was undergoing penance and humiliation as +a mere dust-hole. Thus for my sense of sight; while dry +rot, and wet rot, and all the silent <a name="page46"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 46</span>rots that rot in neglected root and +cellar—rot of rat, and mouse, and bug, and coaching stables +near at hand besides—addressed themselves faintly to my +sense of smell, and moaned, ‘Try Barnard’s +Mixture.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Great alterations are now (1899) being carried out; the old +buildings—as above referred to by Mr. Pip—have been +demolished, and a new and better arrangement of the locality is +in active progress for the improvement of the neighbourhood.</p> +<p>On the opposite side of Holborn are the handsome and extensive +offices of <span class="smcap">The Prudential Assurance +Company</span>. These premises, with their frontage, occupy +the site of <span class="smcap">Furnival’s Inn</span>, +which has recently disappeared, having been pulled down to make +room for the extension of the Assurance offices above referred +to—<i>Sic transit memoria mundi</i>.</p> +<p><b>Furnival’s Inn</b> was an interesting locality, as +associated with the earlier experience of Mr. Dickens +himself. Here the young author resided in 1835, the year +previous to the production of the “Pickwick Papers,” +the first number of that work being published April 1, +1836. On the day following that notable date, Mr. Dickens +married Miss Catherine Hogarth; and for some time the young +couple resided on the third floor apartments at <i>No.</i> 15 +<i>Furnival’s Inn</i>—on the right side of the +square. A personal reminiscence of these early days is no +doubt intended in chapter 59 of “David Copperfield;” +a pleasant description being there given of the residential +chambers of Mr. and Mrs. Traddles, as located in Gray’s Inn +just beyond.</p> +<p><i>Mr. John Westlock</i> had his bachelor apartments in this +same place at Furnival’s Inn (<i>vide</i> “Martin +Chuzzlewit”), and here he received the unexpected visit of +Tom Pinch on his first arrival in London. We may remember +the incidents of that cordial welcome, when</p> +<blockquote><p>“John was constantly running backwards and +forwards to and from the closet, bringing out all sorts of things +in pots, scooping extraordinary quantities of tea out of the +caddy, dropping French rolls into his boots, pouring hot water +over the butter, and making a variety of similar mistakes, +without disconcerting himself in the least.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>In the +centre of the interior square, standing within the precincts of +Furnival’s Inn during the past seventy-five years, and +flourishing in recent days—a quiet oasis of retirement and +good cheer amidst the bustle and noise of central +London—there existed (until 1895) <b>Woods’ +Hotel</b>. This hotel was associated with “The +Mystery of Edwin Drood,” being the house at which Mr. +Grewgious found accommodation for the charming Rosa Budd (on the +occasion of her flight from the importunities of Jasper at +Cloisterham), including an “unlimited head +chambermaid” for her special behoof and benefit.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Rosa’s room was airy, clean, +comfortable, almost gay. The Unlimited had laid in +everything omitted from the very little bag (that is to say, +everything she could possibly need), and Rosa tripped down the +great many stairs again, to thank her guardian for his thoughtful +and affectionate care of her.</p> +<p>“‘Not at all, my dear,’ said Mr. Grewgious, +infinitely gratified; ‘it is I who thank you for your +charming confidence and for your charming company. Your +breakfast will be provided for you in a neat, compact, and +graceful little sitting-room (appropriate to your figure), and I +will come to you at ten o’clock in the morning. I +hope you don’t feel very strange indeed, in this strange +place.’</p> +<p>“‘Oh no, I feel so safe!’</p> +<p>“‘Yes, you may be sure that the stairs are +fire-proof,’ said Mr. Grewgious, ‘and that any +outbreak of the devouring element would be perceived and +suppressed by the watchmen.’</p> +<p>“‘I did not mean that,’ Rosa replied. +‘I mean, I feel so safe from him.’</p> +<p>“‘There is a stout gate of iron bars to keep him +out,’ said Mr. Grewgious smiling; ‘and +Furnival’s is fire-proof, and specially watched and +lighted, and <i>I</i> live over the way!’ In the +stoutness of his knight-errantry, he seemed to think the +last-named protection all-sufficient. In the same spirit he +said to the gate-porter as he went out, ‘If some one +staying in the hotel should wish to send across the road to me in +the night, a crown will be ready for the messenger.’ +In the same spirit, he walked up and down outside the iron gate +for the best part of an hour, with some solicitude; occasionally +looking in between the bars, as if he had laid a dove in a high +roost in a cage of lions, and had it on his mind that she might +tumble out.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The Hotel was originally built 1818–19, and was enlarged +as recently as 1884. Woods was the proprietor for fifty +years.</p> +<p><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +48</span>Crossing to the other side of the street, at a short +distance onwards, opposite Gray’s Inn Road, the Rambler +reaches (by No. 334 High Holborn) the gateway of <b>Staple +Inn</b>; a little nook, composed of two irregular quadrangles +behind the most ancient part of Holborn, where certain gabled +houses, some centuries of age, still stand looking on the public +way. Staple Inn was the favourite summer promenade of the +meditative <i>Mr. Snagsby</i> (see “Bleak House”); +and in this Inn <i>Mr. Grewgious</i> occupied a set of +chambers. The house is No. 10, in the inner quadrangle, +“presenting in black and white, over its ugly portal, the +mysterious inscription, ‘P. J. T., 1747.’ +Perhaps John Thomas, or Perhaps Joe Tyler.” And, +under certain social conditions, “for a certainty, P. J. T. +was Pretty Jolly Too.” <i>Neville Landless</i> also +had rooms in this locality; the top set in the corner (on the +right), overlooking the garden “where a few smoky sparrows +twitter in the smoky trees, as though they had called to each +other, ‘let us play at country.’” Close +to these lived <i>Mr. Tartar</i>, in “the neatest, the +cleanest, and the best-ordered chambers ever seen under the sun, +moon, and stars.” And we may recall the +writer’s delicate treatment of this, the blushing +“beanstalk country” of dear little Rosa Budd. +For the several associations herewith connected, reference should +be made to our author’s last book, “The Mystery of +Edwin Drood.”—See concluding paragraphs of chapter +21:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Rosa wondered what the girls would say if +they could see her crossing the wide street on the sailor’s +arm. And she fancied that the passers-by must think her +very little and very helpless, contrasted with the strong figure +that could have caught her up and carried her out of any danger, +miles and miles without resting.</p> +<p>“She was thinking further, that his far-seeing blue eyes +looked as if they had been used to watch danger afar off, and to +watch it without flinching, drawing nearer and nearer: when, +happening to raise her own eyes, she found that he seemed to be +thinking something about <i>them</i>.</p> +<p>“This a little confused Rosebud, and may account for her +never afterwards quite knowing how she ascended (with his help) +to his garden in the air, and seemed to get into a marvellous +country that <a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +49</span>came into sudden bloom like the country on the summit of +the magic bean-stalk. May it flourish for ever!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p48.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Doorway in Staple Inn" +title= +"Doorway in Staple Inn" +src="images/p48.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In this connection, the reader may be interested in chapter +22; the first part of which deals most tenderly and beautifully +with “love’s awaking,” in the heart of the +innocent heroine.</p> +<p>Recrossing to the other side of High Holborn, past +<i>Gray’s Inn Road</i> (on the north), at No. 22, we reach +the gateway of <span class="smcap">Gray’s Inn</span>. +At No. 2 South Square (formerly Holborn Court) we may find the +upper chambers formerly occupied by <i>Mr. Traddles</i> and his +wife <i>Sophy</i>, whose domestic arrangements included +accommodation for “the beauty” and the other +Devonshire sisters. Copperfield says, in the chapter before +referred to:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“If I had beheld a thousand roses blowing in +a top set of chambers, in that withered Gray’s Inn, they +could not have brightened it half so much. The idea of +those Devonshire girls, among the dry law-stationers, and the +attorneys’ offices; and of the tea and toast, and +children’s songs, in that grim atmosphere of pounce and +parchment, red-tape, dusty wafers, ink-jars, brief and draft +paper, law reports, writs, declarations, and bills of costs, +seemed almost as pleasantly fanciful as if I had dreamed that the +Sultan’s famous family had been admitted on the roll of +attorneys, and had brought the talking-bird, the singing-tree, +and the Golden water into Gray’s Inn Hall.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The offices of <i>Mr. Perker</i>, the legal adviser of Mr. +Pickwick, were also located in Gray’s Inn. We read +that the “outer door” of these chambers was to be +found “after climbing two pairs of steep and dirty +stairs;” but no indication is given of their exact +situation.</p> +<p>Proceeding westward from Gray’s Inn, and passing the +stately, elegant, and commodious <i>First Avenue Hotel</i>, +between Warwick Court and Brownlow Street, and a half-a-dozen +side streets beyond, we come, on the north side, at No. 92, to +the <b>Bull and Anchor Tavern</b>. This is the house known +in the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit” as “<i>The +Bull Inn</i>,” then a more important hostelry than at +present. It will be remembered as the inn at which Mr. +Lewsome, during his <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +50</span>illness, was professionally attended by <i>Sairey +Gamp</i> and <i>Betsy Prig</i>, “turn and turn +about.”</p> +<p>Passing on to the next turning but one, we reach <b>Kingsgate +Street</b>, where <i>Poll Sweedlepipes</i>—barber and +bird-fancier—once had his business location, “next +door but one to the celebrated mutton-pie shop, and directly +opposite the original cat’s-meat warehouse.” At +this place the immortal <i>Mrs. Gamp</i> had lodgings on the +first floor, where she</p> +<blockquote><p>“Was easily assailed at night by pebbles, +walking-sticks, and fragments of tobacco pipes, all much more +efficacious than the street-door knocker, which was so +constructed as to wake the street with ease, and even spread +alarms of fire in Holborn, without making the smallest impression +on the premises to which it was addressed.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It is recollected in the neighbourhood that, fifty years +since, a barber by the name of Patterson (who was also a +bird-dealer) lived in this street, at the second house on the +left. The shop has been pulled down, is now absorbed by the +corner premises in Holborn, and can be only identified by its +position. Here, then, did <i>Mr. Pecksniff</i> arrive on +his doleful mission, in accordance with the recommendation of +<i>Mr. Mould</i>, the undertaker, with regard to the death of old +<i>Anthony Chuzzlewit</i>; and here did that memorable teapot +cause a lasting difference between two friends, as narrated in +chapter 49 of “Martin Chuzzlewit.” “This +world-famous personage, Mrs. Gamp, has passed into and become one +with the language” whose vernacular she has adorned with +her own flowers of speech. As Mr. Forster remarks, +“she will remain among the everlasting triumphs of fiction, +a superb masterpiece of English humour.” “Age +cannot wither her, nor custom stale, her infinite +variety.” At the Holborn corner of Kingsgate Street +we may remember <i>Mr. Bailey</i>, <i>junior</i>, on the occasion +when, at this exact spot, he collided with Poll Sweedlepipes, +afterwards going “round and round in circles on the +pavement,” the better to exhibit to Poll’s admiring +gaze his fashionable livery as Tiger in the service of <i>Mr. +Montague Tigg</i>, “rather to the <a +name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>inconvenience +of the passengers generally, who were not in an equal state of +spirits with himself.”</p> +<p>The next turning but one, westward, on the right, by the West +Central Post Office (No. 126), is <b>Southampton Street</b>, +leading to Bloomsbury Square.</p> +<p>Here it will be remembered that lodgings were taken by Mr. +Grewgious for <i>Miss Twinkleton</i> and Rosa, of the redoubtable +<i>Mrs. Billickin</i>, “the person of the +’ouse,” who, from prudential motives, suppressed her +Christian name.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mr. Grewgious had his agreement-lines and +his earnest-money ready. ‘I have signed it for the +ladies, ma’am,’ he said, ‘and you’ll have +the goodness to sign it for yourself, Christian and Surname, +there, if you please.’</p> +<p>“‘Mr. Grewgious,’ said Mrs. Billickin in a +new burst of candour, ‘no, sir! You must excuse the +Christian name.’</p> +<p>“Mr. Grewgious stared at her.</p> +<p>“‘The door-plate is used as a protection,’ +said Mrs. Billickin, ‘and acts as such, and go from it I +will not.’</p> +<p>“Mr. Grewgious stared at Rosa.</p> +<p>“‘No, Mr. Grewgious, you must excuse me. So +long as this ’ouse is known indefinite as +Billickin’s, and so long as it is a doubt with the +riff-raff where Billickin may be hidin’, near the +street-door or down the airy, and what his weight and size, so +long I feel safe. But commit myself to a solitary female +statement, no, Miss! Nor would you for a moment +wish,’ said Mrs. Billickin, with a strong sense of injury, +‘to take that advantage of your sex, if you were not +brought to it by inconsiderate example.’</p> +<p>“Rosa reddening as if she had made some most disgraceful +attempt to overreach the good lady, besought Mr. Grewgious to +rest content with any signature. And accordingly, in a +baronial way, the sign-manual <span +class="smcap">Billickin</span> got appended to the +document.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And we may here recall the incidental passage of arms between +the worthy landlady and Miss Twinkleton, Mrs. B. being always in +direct antagonism with the schoolmistress, against whom she +“openly pitted herself as one whom she fully ascertained to +be her natural enemy.” Witness “the B. +enveloped in the shawl of State,” as she remarked to Miss +Twinkleton that</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘A rush from scanty feeding to +generous feeding, from what you may call messing to what you may +call method, do require a power of <a name="page52"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 52</span>constitution, which is not often +found in youth, particular when undermined by boarding-school. . +. . I was put in youth to a very genteel boarding-school, +the mistress being no less a lady than yourself, of about your +own age, or it may be some years younger, and a poorness of blood +flowed from the table, which has run through my life.’</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p>“‘If you refer to the poverty of your +circulation,’ began Miss Twinkleton, when again the +Billickin neatly stopped her.</p> +<p>“‘I have used no such expressions.’</p> +<p>“‘If you refer, then, to the poorness of your +blood—’</p> +<p>“‘Brought upon me,’ stipulated the +Billickin, expressly, ‘at a +boarding-school—’</p> +<p>“‘Then,’ resumed Miss Twinkleton, ‘all +I can say is, that I am bound to believe, on your asseveration, +that it is very poor indeed. I cannot forbear adding, that +if that unfortunate circumstance influences your conversation, it +is much to be lamented, and it is eminently desirable that your +blood were richer.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Southampton Street is not a long one, and is now chiefly +occupied by solicitors and architects; but there is reason to +believe that the Billickins’ residence was, aforetime, to +be found at No. 18, which is situated next door but one to an +archway. As Mrs. B. herself candidly pointed out,</p> +<blockquote><p>“The arching leads to a mews; mewses must +exist.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The mews aforesaid is now superseded by a factory. Mrs. +Billickin has long since relinquished the cares of housekeeping +and retired from public life. The present amiable landlady +conducts the business on different principles, and will be at all +times disposed to give her patrons satisfaction, whether they be +of the scholastic persuasion or otherwise.</p> +<p>Southampton Street leads immediately northward into +<b>Bloomsbury Square</b>. This place is mentioned in +“Barnaby Rudge” as the locality in which <i>Lord +Mansfield’s</i> residence was situated at the period of the +Gordon Riots. In chapter 66 its destruction by the rioters +is thus described:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They began to demolish the house with great +fury; and setting fire to it in several places, involved in a +common ruin the whole of the costly furniture, the plate and +jewels, a beautiful gallery of pictures, the rarest collection of +manuscripts ever possessed by any one private <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>person in the +world, and, worst of all, because nothing could replace the loss, +the great Law Library, on almost every page of which were notes, +in the judge’s own hand, of inestimable value; being the +results of the study and experience of his whole life.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p53.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Children’s Hospital" +title= +"The Children’s Hospital" +src="images/p53.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The house occupied the site of No. 29, on the east side of the +square. We subsequently read in the same book that two of +the rioters—cripples—were hanged in this square, the +execution being momentarily delayed, as they were placed facing +the house they had assisted to despoil. Leaving the square +at its north-east angle (right) by <i>Bloomsbury Place</i>, the +Rambler shortly comes into <i>Southampton Row</i>, turning left, +and proceeding for a short distance upwards to <i>Cosmo Place</i> +on the right, a short cut which leads directly to the contiguous +shades of <b>Queen Square</b> just beyond. It will be +remembered that in this neighbourhood Richard Carstone had +furnished apartments at the time when he was pursuing the +experimental study of the Law under the auspices of Messrs. Kenge +and Carboy (see “Bleak House,” chapter 18). +There is reason to believe that the “quiet old” house +intended was No. 28 <i>Devonshire Street</i>, leading from the +south-east angle of the square.</p> +<p>Leaving Queen Square by <i>Great Ormond Street</i> (eastward), +we immediately arrive, on the north side (No. 50), at <b>The +Children’s Hospital</b>, adjacent to the Catholic Church +and Convent of St. John. In 1858, February 9th, a public +dinner was arranged, by way of charitable appeal, for funds +necessary to carry on and develop the work. It was happily +resolved to invite Charles Dickens to preside on that occasion, +and he “threw himself into the service heart and +soul.” His earnest, pathetic, but powerful +appeal—“majestic in its own +simplicity”—that night added more than £3000 to +the treasury, which amount was, two months afterwards, +substantially increased by the proceeds of a public reading of +his “Christmas Carol.” It is pleasant to record +that this institution has ever since flourished amain, thus +fulfilling the prediction of Dickens when, suggesting <a +name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>that the +enterprise could not be possibly maintained unless the Hospital +were made better known, he continued as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I limit myself to saying—better +known, because I will not believe that, in a Christian community +of fathers and mothers, and brothers and sisters, it can fail, +being better known, to be well and richly endowed.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We may here recall the scene narrated in chapter 9 of +“Our Mutual Friend,” when <i>Johnny</i> makes his +will and arranges his affairs, leaving “a kiss for the +boofer lady”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The family whom God had brought together +were not all asleep, but were all quiet. From bed to bed, a +light womanly tread and a pleasant fresh face passed in the +silence of the night. A little head would lift itself into +the softened light here and there, to be kissed as the face went +by—for these little patients are very loving—and +would then submit itself to be composed to rest again. . . +. Over most of the beds, the toys were yet grouped as the +children had left them when they last laid themselves down, and +in their innocent grotesqueness and incongruity they might have +stood for the children’s dreams.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Proceeding eastward by <i>Great Ormond Street</i> and turning +(left) through <i>Lamb’s Conduit Street</i>, to its +northern end, we face the entrance of the <b>Foundling +Hospital</b>. This beneficent institution was established +by Captain Thomas Coram, about the middle of the last century, +and is associated with “No Thoroughfare,” the +Christmas number (and last in the series) of “All the Year +Round,” 1867. Visitors attending the morning service +of the <i>Foundling Church</i> on Sundays are admitted to the +children’s <i>Dining-Hall</i> thereafter, and so may have +an opportunity of realising the scene portrayed by Dickens, when +the “veiled lady” induced a female attendant to point +out Walter Wilding:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The bright autumnal sun strikes freshly +into the wards; and the heavy-framed windows through which it +shines, and the panelled walls on which it shines, are such +windows, and such walls as pervade Hogarth’s +pictures. Neat attendants silently glide about the orderly +and silent tables, the lookers-on move or stop as the fancy takes +them; comments in whispers on face such a number, from such a +window, are <a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +55</span>not unfrequent—many of the faces are of a +character to fix attention. Some of the visitors from the +outside public are accustomed visitors. They have +established a speaking acquaintance with the occupants of +particular seats at the table, and halt at those points to say a +word or two.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In “Little Dorrit,” too, reference is made to this +institution, <i>in re</i> the adoption of Tattycoram by good Papa +and Mamma Meagles. In the times of Barnaby Rudge, the +London streets were not greatly extended northward beyond this +(now central) neighbourhood. We may remember that the +headquarters of the “Captain,” Sim Tappertit, Hugh, +and Dennis were at <b>The</b> “<b>Boot</b>” +<b>Tavern</b>, which is described as</p> +<blockquote><p>“A lone place of public entertainment, +situated in the fields at the back of the Foundling Hospital; a +very solitary spot at that period, and quite deserted after +dark. The Tavern stood at some distance from any high road, +and was only approachable by a dark and narrow lane.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Guilford Street</i>, we reach +<i>Doughty Street</i>, <i>Mecklenburgh Square</i>, running +transversely north and south. On the east side we may note +<b>No. 48 Doughty Street</b>, as the house to which Dickens +removed from <i>Furnival’s Inn</i>, in the early spring of +1837, and in which he lived two years and a half, previous to his +longer residence at <i>No.</i> 1 <i>Devonshire Terrace</i>. +In it “Oliver Twist” and “Nicholas +Nickleby” were written; and here, too, the early +friendship, which had been for some time steadily developing +between Dickens and Forster, became cemented for life. His +biographer says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Nor had many weeks passed before he +addressed to me from Doughty Street, words which it is my +sorrowful pride to remember have had literal fulfilment. +‘I look back with unmingled pleasure to every link which +each ensuing week has added to the chain of our attachment. +It shall go hard, I hope, ere anything but death impairs the +toughness of a bond now so firmly riveted.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The route being retraced to the Foundling Hospital, and thence +continued through Guilford Street to <i>Russell </i><a +name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +56</span><i>Square</i>, we turn (right) by <i>Woburn Place</i> to +<span class="smcap">Tavistock Square</span>, on the south side of +which (<span class="smcap">Tavistock Villas</span>) is situated +<b>Tavistock House</b>. To this residence Dickens removed +(from <span class="smcap">Devonshire Terrace</span>) in October +1851, retaining its possession for nearly ten years. During +this time “Bleak House” was completed, and +“Hard Times,” “Little Dorrit,” and the +“Tale of Two Cities” were given to the world. +<span class="smcap">Tavistock House</span> is now transformed +into a Jewish College. <i>Hans Christian Andersen</i>, +visiting his friend in London, gives the following +description:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In Tavistock Square stands Tavistock +House. This and the strip of garden in front of it are shut +out from the thoroughfare by an iron railing. A large +garden, with a grass plat and high trees, stretches behind the +house, and gives it a countrified look in the midst of this coal +and gas steaming London. In the passage from street to +garden hung pictures and engravings. Here stood a marble +bust of Dickens, so like him, so youthful and handsome; and over +a bedroom door were inserted the bas-reliefs of Night and Day, +after Thorwaldsen. On the first floor was a rich library, +with a fireplace and a writing-table, looking out on the garden; +and here it was that in winter Dickens and his friends acted +plays to the satisfaction of all parties. The kitchen was +underground, and at the top of the house were the +bedrooms.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p56.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Tavistock House" +title= +"Tavistock House" +src="images/p56.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Leaving this locality at the north-west angle, passing +<i>Gordon Square</i>, we turn (right) into <i>Gordon Street</i>, +and (left) through <i>Gower Place</i>, to <span +class="smcap">Gower Street</span>, on the west side of +which—opposite—is the house once bearing a large +brass plate on the door, announcing <b>Mrs. Dickens’s +Establishment</b>, being the place at which Mrs. Dickens (mother +of Charles) endeavoured to set up a school during the difficult +times of 1822. The family lived here for a short time, +previous to the Marshalsea imprisonment of Dickens senior; +Charles being then a boy ten years of age. In the first +chapter of Forster’s Biography is the following:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A house was soon found at number four, +Gower Street North; a large brass plate on the door announced +Mrs. Dickens’s establishment; <a name="page57"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 57</span>and the result I can give in the +exact words of the then small actor in the comedy, whose hopes it +had raised so high: ‘I left at a great many other doors a +great many circulars, calling attention to the merits of the +establishment. Yet nobody ever came to school, nor do I +recollect that anybody ever proposed to come, or that the least +preparation was made to receive anybody. But, I know that +we got on very badly with the butcher and baker; that very often +we had not too much for dinner; and that at last my father was +arrested.’ . . . Almost everything by degrees +was pawned or sold, little Charles being the principal agent in +these sorrowful transactions . . . until at last, even of the +furniture of Gower Street, number four, there was nothing left +except a few chairs, a kitchen table, and some beds. Then +they encamped, as it were, in the two parlours of the emptied +house, and lived there night and day.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Gower Street has been rearranged since that time (there is now +no Gower Street North), and the houses are renumbered. No. +145, near <i>Gower Street Chapel</i>, and other houses adjoining, +are now in the occupation of Messrs. Maple & Co.; and this +No. 145 was the house then enumerated as No. 4 Gower Street +North. Mrs. Dickens’s experience, it will be +remembered, has been pleasantly referred to in the pages of +“Our Mutual Friend;” the stately <i>Mrs. Wilfer</i> +therein making a similar experiment, with the same result. +In chapter 4 we read of <i>Rumpty’s</i> return home from +business: when</p> +<blockquote><p>“Something had gone wrong with the house +door, for R. Wilfer stopped on the steps, staring at it, and +cried ‘Hal-loa?’ ‘Yes,’ said Mrs. +Wilfer, ‘the man came himself with a pair of pincers and +took it off, and took it away. He said that as he had no +expectation of ever being paid for it, and as he had an order for +another <i>Ladies’ School</i> door-plate, it was better +(burnished up) for the interests of all +parties.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the opposite corner of the street is the <i>Gower Street +Station</i> of the Metropolitan Railway, at which train may be +taken to <i>Baker Street</i>. On arrival, we turn to the +right, by <i>Marylebone Road</i>, to <b>Devonshire Terrace</b>, +consisting of three houses at the northern end of <i>High +Street</i>,<i> Marylebone</i>. No. 1, now occupied by a +legal firm, was for twelve years the residence of Charles Dickens +(when in town). It is described by Forster as</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +58</span>“A handsome house with a garden of considerable +size, shut out from the New Road by a brick wall, facing the York +Gate into Regent’s Park.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>To quote the ironical dictum of its future tenant when the +choice was made, it was “a house of great promise (and +great premium), undeniable situation, and excessive +splendour.” During the period of the author’s +residence here several of his best-known books were given to the +world—“Master Humphrey’s Clock,” <span +class="smcap">Christmas Books</span>, and “David +Copperfield” included. Proceeding forwards and +eastward past <i>Devonshire Place</i>, we may take our way, +turning on the right down <b>Harley Street</b>, of which we read +in “Little Dorrit” that,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Like unexceptionable society, the opposing +rows of houses in Harley Street were very grim with one +another. Indeed, the mansions and their inhabitants were so +much alike in that respect that the people were often to be found +drawn up on opposite sides of dinner tables, in the shade of +their own loftiness, staring at the other side of the way with +the dulness of the houses. Everybody knows how like the +street the two dinner-rows of people who take their stand by the +street will be. The expressionless uniform twenty houses, +all to be knocked at and rung at in the same form, all +approachable by the same dull steps, all fended off by the same +pattern of railing, all with the same impracticable fire-escapes, +the same inconvenient fixtures in their heads, and everything, +without exception, to be taken at a high valuation—who has +not dined with these?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In this street lived that great financier and swindler <i>Mr. +Merdle</i>, who had his residence in one of the handsomest of +these handsome houses; but it would be, perhaps, invidious to +point out any particular location for the same, Dickens himself +having purposely omitted an exact address. Following the +course of Harley Street, we come in due time to <span +class="smcap">Queen Anne Street</span>, running east and +west. Adopting the leftward turning (east), we may find at +the next corner—<i>Mansfield Street</i>—on the north +side, <b>Mr. Dombey’s House</b>, as described in chapter 3 +of “Dombey and Son”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mr. Dombey’s house was a large one, +on the shady side of a tall, <a name="page59"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 59</span>dark, dreadfully genteel street in +the region between Portland Place and Bryanston Square. It +was a corner house, with great wide areas containing cellars, +frowned upon by barred windows, and leered at by crooked-eyed +doors leading to dust-bins. It was a house of dismal state, +with a circular back to it, containing a whole suite of +drawing-rooms looking upon a gravelled yard.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It will be observed that the position and character of this +mansion exactly correspond to the above description, being in its +general style noteworthy and unique. This, then, was the +private establishment and “home department” of the +Dombey family, where died the gentle Paul; the lonely house in +which the neglected Florence grew to lovely womanhood; what time +the second wife—the stately Edith—held temporary +sway.</p> +<p>Hence a short distance southward leads to <i>Cavendish +Square</i>. In this neighbourhood we read that <b>Madame +Mantalini’s</b> fashionable dressmaking establishment was +situated, at which Kate Nickleby was for some few weeks engaged, +on the recommendation of her uncle. The house intended was +probably in <i>Wigmore Street</i>, No. 11. In the days of +the Mantalini <i>régime</i> the business was +advertised</p> +<blockquote><p>“To the nobility and gentry by the casual +exhibition, near the handsomely-curtained windows, of two or +three elegant bonnets of the newest fashion, and some costly +garments in the most approved taste.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>By the next turning (right) on the north side we come into +<span class="smcap">Wimpole Street</span>; on the east of which, +at the corner of the third block, stands <b>The West End +Residence</b>—No. 43—aforetime occupied by Mr. and +Mrs. Boffin; which became, later on, the property of Mr. John +Harmon and his wife. It is described as “a corner +house, not far from Cavendish Square.” Near this +house <i>Silas Wegg</i>—assuming some knowledge of its +affairs—kept his street-stall. He was accustomed to +refer to it as “Our House,” its (imaginary) inmates +being Miss Elizabeth, Master George, Aunt Jane, and Uncle +Parker.</p> +<p><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +60</span>Returning to Wigmore Street, we arrive by the next block +at <b>Welbeck Street</b>, running transversely thereto. In +this street was the London residence of <i>Lord George +Gordon</i>, as referred to in the pages of “Barnaby +Rudge.” The house is No. 64, the second from Wigmore +Street on the left side. It is within the recollection of +the present landlord that the old balcony—from which Lord +George was wont to harangue the public—was many years since +superseded by the present continuous railing.</p> +<p>We now come south into the West-end artery of <i>Oxford +Street</i>, crossing same to <i>Davies Street</i>, by which we +may soon reach <span class="smcap">Brook Street</span>, <span +class="smcap">Grosvenor Square</span>, running east and +west. On the south-eastern angle of its intersection stands +<b>Claridge’s Hotel</b>. It will be remembered that +on <i>Mr. Dorrit’s</i> return from the Continent, after the +marriage of his daughter Fanny, “the Courier had not +approved of his staying at the house of a friend, and had +preferred to take him to an hotel in Brook Street, Grosvenor +Square.” This was doubtless the establishment +favoured by the Courier’s preference on that occasion; and +where Mr. Merdle paid a state visit to Mr. Dorrit at +breakfast-time the next morning; taking him afterwards in his +carriage to the City.</p> +<p>Readers of “Dombey and Son” may be reminded that +the <b>Feenix Town House</b> was situated in this same <span +class="smcap">Brook Street</span>; but no clue is afforded of its +exact whereabouts. It is described as an aristocratic +mansion of a dull and gloomy sort; and was borrowed by the +<i>Honourable Mrs. Skewton</i> from a stately relative, on the +occasion of her daughter’s marriage. Here also, in +aftertime, the final interview between <i>Florence</i> and +<i>Edith</i> took place.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p61.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House" +title= +"The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House" +src="images/p61.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Keeping on through <i>Davies Street</i> across <i>Berkeley +Square</i>, we come through <i>Berkeley Street</i> to Piccadilly, +in the close vicinity of <b>Devonshire House</b>, a mansion of +fashionable and political repute, belonging to the <i>Duke of +Devonshire</i>. Here, on <a name="page61"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 61</span>the 27th of May 1851, in the great +drawing-room and library, Dickens and his <i>confrères</i> +of “The Guild of Literature and Art” performed, for +the first time, Sir Bulwer Lytton’s comedy (written for the +occasion) “Not so Bad as We Seem,” in the presence of +the Queen, Prince Albert and a brilliant audience. The Duke +not only afforded the necessary accommodation, but (as Mr. +Forster writes), in his princely way, discharged all attendant +expenses. Many distinguished authors and artists assisted +at this performance, including Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and John +Leech.</p> +<p>Near at hand, on the eastern corner of the next turning down +Piccadilly (<i>Dover Street</i>), is <span +class="smcap">Hatchett’s Hotel</span>, adjoining <b>The +White Horse Cellars</b>, once a well-known coaching +establishment. On the opposite side of the way stood in +days of yore the old “White Horse Cellars,” of which +Hazlitt writes:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The finest sight in the Metropolis is the +setting out of the mail-coaches from Piccadilly. The horses +paw the ground and are impatient to be gone, as if conscious of +the precious burden they convey. There is a peculiar +secrecy and despatch, significant and full of meaning, in all the +proceedings concerning them. Even the outside passengers +have an erect and supercilious air, as if proof against the +accidents of the journey; in fact, it seems indifferent whether +they are to encounter the summer’s heat or the +winter’s cold, since they are borne through the air on a +winged chariot.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>From this well-known Booking Office, <i>Mr. Pickwick</i> and +his friends—accompanied by the fierce <i>Dowler</i> and his +fascinating wife—started for Bath, one “muggy, damp, +and drizzly morning, by the mail coach; on the door of which was +displayed, in gilt letters of a goodly size, the magic name of +‘Pickwick’; a circumstance which seems to have +occasioned some confusion of ideas in the mind of the faithful +Sam, as evidenced by his indignant +inquiry—‘An’t nobody to be whopped for +takin’ this here liberty?’”</p> +<p>Readers of “Bleak House” will remember this +locality as the destination of the Reading Coach; so indicated by +<i>Messrs. Kenge and Carboy</i> in their first communication to +<a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span><i>Esther +Summerson</i>. Here she was met, one foggy November +afternoon, on her arrival in London, by the susceptible <i>Mr. +Guppy</i>, and by him conducted to Old Square, Lincoln’s +Inn. The incident was afterwards feelingly referred to by +that young gentleman, on the occasion of his offer of heart, +hand, and income to Esther:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I think you must have seen that I was +struck with those charms on the day when I waited at the +Whytorseller. I think you must have remarked that I could +not forbear a tribute to those charms when I put up the steps of +the ’ackney coach.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For the full narrative, see “Bleak House,” chapter +9.</p> +<p>The Rambler can now take an eastward course up <span +class="smcap">Piccadilly</span>, and may casually observe, on the +left, past Burlington House, <span class="smcap">The +Albany</span>, where <i>Mr. Fledgby</i> had chambers. The +next turning on the same side is <span class="smcap">Sackville +Street</span>, in which it may be recollected that <i>Mr. and +Mrs. Lammles</i> resided during the short term of their social +prosperity. Mention of these localities in such connection +will be found in the pages of “Our Mutual +Friend.” Passing onwards on the same side, we arrive +at No. 28, <b>St. James’s Hall</b>. It was at this +well-known place of assembly that several of those popular +Readings were given by Charles Dickens, which always commanded +the attention and sympathetic interest of his audience. On +these occasions he invariably adopted the extreme of fashionable +evening attire, being dressed in irreproachable style, with, +perhaps, more of shirt-front than waistcoat; and so “got +up” as to present a staginess and juvenility of appearance, +possibly somewhat out of keeping with his time of life. +Some of his hearers may have desired a more natural and less +conventional mode; but they knew that beneath the big shirt and +fashionable coat, there throbbed the genial heart of the man they +loved, as he read of the sorrows of “Little Emily,” +or stood with them in spirit at the bedside of “Paul +Dombey.” On the occasion of his final Reading, given +here in March 1870, he tendered his last public farewell to his +London audience in the following words:</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +63</span>“It would be worse than idle, it would be +hypocritical and unfeeling, if I were to disguise that I close +this episode of my life with feelings of very considerable +pain. For some fifteen years, in this hall and many kindred +places, I have had the honour of presenting my own cherished +ideas before you for your recognition; and, in closely observing +your reception of them, have enjoyed an amount of artistic +delight and enjoyment, which perhaps it is given few men to +know. In this task and every other, I have ever undertaken +as a faithful servant of the public—always imbued with a +sense of duty to them, and always striving to do his best—I +have been uniformly cheered by the readiest response, the most +generous sympathy and the most stimulating support. +Nevertheless, I have thought it well, at the full flood-tide of +your favour, to retire upon those older associations between us, +which date from much further back than these; and henceforth to +devote myself exclusively to the art that first brought us +together. Ladies and gentlemen, in but two short weeks from +this time, I hope that you may enter, in your own homes, on a new +series of Readings, at which my assistance will be indispensable; +but from these garish lights I vanish now for ever, with one +heartfelt, grateful, respectful, and affectionate +farewell.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the right-hand side of Piccadilly, adjacent to the +<i>Prince’s Hall and Institute of Painters</i>, there may +be noted, <i>en passant</i>, the premises No. 193, now occupied +by the Boys’ Messenger Co. This, for many years, was +the address of <b>Messrs. Chapman and Hall</b>, the publishers of +the works of Dickens. Previous to 1850, the earlier +books—“Pickwick” to “Martin +Chuzzlewit” inclusive—together with the first issue +of their cheaper edition, were published by this well-known house +at 186 <i>Strand</i>, the site now occupied by the premises of W. +H. Smith and Son. The firm have, for many years past, +removed their offices to <i>No.</i> 11 <i>Henrietta Street</i>, +<i>Covent Garden</i>.</p> +<p>Passing on to <i>Piccadilly Circus</i>, and crossing northward +from the same, we turn (left) into <i>Sherwood Street</i>, which +leads, by a short walk, to <i>Brewer Street</i>, in the +neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">Golden Square</span>. +Continuing by <i>Lower James Street</i>, opposite, we reach the +square itself, in which was formerly situated the <b>Office of +Ralph Nickleby</b>. Readers of Dickens will remember that +it was a large house, with an attic storey, in which Ralph +committed suicide. The house No. 6, on <a +name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>the east +side, was probably the one assigned by the author as the +usurer’s residence. It is now let off in various +suites of offices, professional and otherwise. The +neighbourhood has somewhat changed since the time when the +“Adventures of Nicholas Nickleby” was first issued, +and the following description, given by Dickens, became public +property:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“It is one of the squares that have +been—a quarter of the town that has gone down in the world, +and taken to letting lodgings. Many of its first and second +floors are let, furnished, to single gentlemen, and it takes +boarders besides. It is a great resort of foreigners. +The dark-complexioned men who wear large rings and heavy +watch-guards, and bushy whiskers, and who congregate under the +Opera Colonnade, and about the box-office in the season between +four and five in the afternoon, when they give away the +orders—all live in Golden Square, or within a street of +it. Two or three violins and a wind instrument from the +opera-band reside within its precincts.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We read in the same book of the whereabouts of <i>Mr. +Kenwigs</i> as being in this neighbourhood—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A bygone, faded, tumble-down street, with +two irregular rows of tall meagre houses, which seem to have +stared each other out of countenance years ago; the very chimneys +appear to have grown dismal and melancholy from having had +nothing better to look at than the chimneys over the +way.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>There are many streets in the district of Soho, in this +vicinity, which will in some respects correspond with the +description given; but much alteration has taken place during the +last sixty years. Recollecting that <i>Newman Noggs</i> +lodged in the upper part of the same house, it must have been +conveniently near Golden Square. In <b>Carnaby Street</b> +(immediately north of the Square) there may be remarked a +white-fronted, old-fashioned house (No. 48), which, being in +proximity to Ralph Nickleby’s Office, may be assigned as +aforetime comprising the apartments of the Kenwigs Family.</p> +<p>At the corner of <i>Beak Street</i> and <i>Upper James +Street</i> is still existent “<b>The Crown Inn</b>,” +well known to Newman Noggs; though, since his time, it must have +undergone <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +65</span>considerable alteration. In his first letter to +Nicholas Nickleby, Newman writes:—</p> +<p>“If you ever want a shelter in London, . . . they know +where I live at the sign of the Crown, Golden Square. It is +at the corner of Silver Street” [now Beak Street] +“and James Street, with a bar door both ways.”</p> +<p>In this neighbourhood, also, <b>Martha’s Lodgings</b> +were situated, in the days of David Copperfield, who +says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“She laid her hand on my arm, and hurried me +on to one of the sombre streets of which there are several in +that part, where the houses were once fair dwellings, in the +occupation of single families, but have, and had, long +degenerated into poor lodgings let off in rooms.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Such a house may be found in <i>Marshall Street</i>, No. 53, +close at hand. But at this distance of time it is difficult +to assign the exact locality intended by Dickens. We are +all familiar with the welcome episode in David’s history +when Martha rescued <i>Little Emily</i>, bringing her to these +lodgings, and <i>Mr. Peggotty’s</i> dream came +true.—See chapter 50.</p> +<p>Proceeding half-way up <i>Marshall Street</i>, we turn (right) +through <i>Broad Street</i>, to (left) <i>Poland Street</i>, by +which we again attain the main thoroughfare of Oxford +Street. Turning eastward, on the north side, we come at a +short distance (by No. 90) to <b>Newman Street</b>, in which was +situated <i>Mr. Turveydrop’s Dancing Academy</i>, +“established in a sufficiently dingy house, at the corner +of an archway” (Newman Passage), with Mr. +Turveydrop’s great room built out into a mews at the +back. The house intended is No. 26, on the east side of the +street. Here <i>Caddy Jellyby</i> resided with her husband, +<i>Prince Turveydrop</i>, in the upper rooms of the +establishment, leaving the better part of the house at the +disposal of Mr. Turveydrop, senior; that “perfect +model” of parental and social +“deportment.” Returning to Oxford Street and +passing onwards on the south side, we shortly arrive at <i>Dean +Street</i>, leading southward.</p> +<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>At a +short distance, running east and west, is <b>Carlisle Street</b>, +at the further end of which, to the right, is an old house (by +name Carlisle House) which stands facing the observer. It +is now occupied by <i>Messrs. Edwards and Roberts</i>, dealers in +antique furniture. Readers of “The Tale of Two +Cities” will recollect the lodgings of <b>Doctor +Manette</b> and daughter Lucie, as described in the 6th chapter +(Book the Second) of the Tale, being situated in a quiet +street-corner, not far from Soho Square:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A quainter corner than the corner where the +Doctor lived was not to be found in London. There was no +way through it, and the front windows of the Doctor’s +lodgings commanded a pleasant little vista of street that had a +congenial air of retirement on it. There were few buildings +then, north of the Oxford Road, and forest-trees flourished, and +wild flowers grew, and the hawthorn blossomed, in the now +vanished fields.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The garden behind the house, referred to in the +above-mentioned book, has been converted to the uses of a +warehouse, a glass roof having been long ago built over the +same. A paved court now exists at the side for the +convenience of foot-passengers, giving egress at the end of +Carlisle Street, so that the “wonderful echoes” which +once resounded in this “curious corner” are now no +longer to be heard.</p> +<p>It may be interesting to note that a thoroughfare leading from +<i>No.</i> 119 <i>Charing Cross Road</i> to <i>No.</i> 6 <i>Greek +Street</i>, <i>Soho</i>, is now named <i>Manette Street</i>; in +remembrance of the worthy Doctor, whose London residence in +Carlisle Street, as indicated, was near at hand.</p> +<p>We may return to Oxford Street through Soho Square, +conveniently terminating the ramble at Tottenham Court Road, just +beyond. From this central point there is omnibus +communication to all parts of London; and a commodious +resting-place may be here recommended to those disposed for +dinner, at <span class="smcap">The Horseshoe Restaurant</span>; +which stands in a prominent position near at hand, on the east +side of the street.</p> +<h2><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>RAMBLE +V<br /> +<i>Bank of England to Her Majesty’s Theatre</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">The Bank; Dombey and Son, Tom +Pinch—George and Vulture Inn; Mr. Pickwick’s +Hotel—“The Green Dragon,” <i>alias</i> +“The Blue Boar,” Leadenhall Market; Tony +Weller’s Headquarters—Newman’s Court +(<i>alias</i> Freeman’s Court), Cornhill; The Offices of +Messrs. Dodson and Fogg—House of Sol Gills, Leadenhall +Street; The Wooden Midshipman—St. Mary Axe; Pubsey and +Co.—House of Sampson Brass in Bevis Marks—“The +Red Lion;” Mr. Dick Swiveller’s +recommendation—Bull Inn, Aldgate; Starting-place of the +Ipswich Coach—The Minories—Aldgate Pump; Mr. +Toots’s Excursions—Mincing Lane; Messrs. Chicksey, +Veneering, and Stobbles—Boarding House of Mrs. Todgers, +King’s Head Court—London Bridge; Meeting-place of +Rose Maylie and Nancy—“The White Hart Inn”; its +Pickwickian Associations—The Marshalsea Prison; The Dorrit +Family—St. George’s Church; Little Dorrit’s +Night Refuge and Marriage—Lant Street; Dickens and Bob +Sawyer’s Lodging—King’s Bench +Prison—Horsemonger Lane Gaol—Mr. Chivery’s +Shop—St. George’s Obelisk; “the long-legged +young man”—The Surrey Theatre; Fanny Dorrit and +Uncle—Bethlehem Hospital; “Uncommercial +Traveller”—Astley’s Theatre; visit of the +Nubbles Family—Millbank; Poor +“Martha”—Church Street, Smith Square; the +Dolls’ Dressmaker—Julius Handford—Westminster +Abbey—The Red Lion, Parliament Street; the “Genuine +Stunning”—The Horse Guards’ Clock—St. +James’s Park; Meeting between Martin and Mary—Her +Majesty’s Theatre.</p> +<p>Our starting-point is now the <span class="smcap">Bank of +England</span>, Dombey and Son’s</p> +<blockquote><p>“Magnificent neighbour; with its vaults of +gold and silver, ‘all among the dead men, +underground.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>Tom Pinch</i>, diffident of requesting information in +London, resolved that, in the event of finding himself near the +Bank of England,</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +68</span>“He would step in, and ask a civil question or +two, confiding in the perfect respectability of the +concern.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Adopting the route <i>viâ Lombard Street</i>, we come, +on the left (No. 56), to <span class="smcap">George Yard</span>, +traversing which, there will be found, at the corner of Castle +Court (No. 3), the <b>George and Vulture Inn</b>, at which Mr. +Pickwick resided when in London, subsequent to his removal from +Goswell Street; and which has honourable mention in the history +of the Pickwickians.</p> +<p>Through <i>Lombard Street</i>, and turning left into +<i>Gracechurch Street</i>, we shortly arrive, on the right, at +<i>Bull’s Head Passage</i> (turning by the Branch Post +Office, No. 82), in which, at No. 4, is the <span +class="smcap">Green Dragon Tavern</span>, in close proximity to +Leadenhall Market. This is, in all probability, the house +mentioned in “Pickwick” as “<b>The Blue +Boar</b>,” <i>Leadenhall Market</i>, a favourite house of +call with the elder Weller, and the place where Sam indited his +“Valentine” to <i>Mary</i>, the pretty housemaid, +afterwards Mrs. Sam. But the neighbourhood of the Market +has undergone considerable renovation since the old +coaching-days, and it is difficult to fix the <i>locale</i> of +the tavern with certainty.</p> +<p>Proceeding onwards through <i>Gracechurch Street</i>, we come +into the thoroughfare of <span class="smcap">Cornhill</span>; and +at No. 73, on the opposite side, arrive at <b>Newman’s +Court</b>. It will be remembered that in +“Pickwick” the offices of <i>Messrs. Dodson and +Fogg</i> (Mrs. Bardell’s attorneys) are located in +Freeman’s Court, Cornhill. There is no such place in +Cornhill; Freeman’s Court being in Cheapside. It is +evident, therefore, that Dickens, for reasons of his own, +emulated the special contributor to the <i>Eatanswill +Gazette</i>, and so “combined his information.” +Taking Cornhill to be the locality intended, we shall find Dodson +and Fogg’s Office at the furthest end of the Court, No. 4, +still associated with legal business, <a name="page69"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 69</span>being in possession of Messrs. +Witherby and Co., law stationers.</p> +<p>Passing onwards in Cornhill, past Bishopsgate Street, we come +into Leadenhall Street, and may be interested to note, at No. 157 +(now an outfitting establishment), the original position of the +<span class="smcap">House of Sol Gills</span>, ships’ +instrument maker, at whose door was displayed the figure of</p> +<blockquote><p>“The Wooden Midshipman; eternally taking +observations of the hackney coaches.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here our eccentric friend <i>Captain Cuttle</i> remained in +charge during the absence of old Sol Gills and his nephew; here +<i>Florence</i>, accompanied by the faithful Diogenes, found +asylum; and here <i>Walter Gay</i> returned after shipwreck, to +make everybody happy and marry the gentle heroine of the +story. (See “Dombey and Son” for information +<i>in extenso.</i>) Until recent years, these premises were +in occupation of Messrs. Norie and Wilson, ships’ +instrument makers and chart publishers. They have removed +to the Minories, No. 156, where the quaint effigy of <i>the +Wooden Midshipman</i>, with his cocked hat and quadrant complete, +may now be seen, as bright and brisk as in old days. +“When found, make a note of.”</p> +<p>Farther on, on the same side of Leadenhall Street, we reach +<b>St. Mary Axe</b>, turning northward at No. 117, which we +notice <i>en passant</i> as the thoroughfare in which <i>Pubsey +and Co.</i> had their place of business; “a yellow +overhanging plaster-fronted house”—reconstructed, +with many others, some years since—at the top of which +<i>Riah</i> (the manager) arranged his town garden; where the +Dolls’ Dressmaker invited <i>Fascination Fledgby</i> to +“come up and be dead.” All of which is duly set +forth in the pages of “Our Mutual Friend.” The +position of the house cannot now be localised.</p> +<p>Proceeding to the other end of St. Mary Axe, we may turn +(right) into <i>Bevis Marks</i>, where there once existed the <a +name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span><b>House of +Mr. Sampson Brass</b>, No. 10, but this and others have long +since been rebuilt and re-enumerated. Here lived that +honourable attorney and his sister the fair Sally; aided in their +professional duties by a young gentleman of eccentric habits and +“prodigious talent of quotation.” Here the +<i>Marchioness</i> lived, or rather starved, in attendance as +maid-of-all-work, and first made the acquaintance of Dick +Swiveller, her future husband; being by him initiated into the +mysteries of cribbage and the peculiarities of purl. Here +lodged the “single gentleman,” who evinced such +exceptional interest in the national drama, and so discovered a +clue to the retreat of Little Nell and her grandfather.</p> +<p>On the north side of the street there still flourishes the old +<span class="smcap">Red Lion Inn</span>, an establishment +patronised in his time by Mr. Richard, and once eulogised by that +gentleman on the occasion of his specifying “the contingent +advantages” of the neighbourhood. “There is +mild porter in the immediate vicinity.”</p> +<p>For these and the other associations of this spot the tourist +is referred to the pages of the “Old Curiosity +Shop.”</p> +<p>Following downwards through Bevis Marks and Duke Street +beyond, we come into <i>Aldgate</i>, keeping still on the +left-hand side of the way to <i>Aldgate High Street</i>, where at +a short distance we pass the Station of the Metropolitan +Railway. At No. 24, just ahead, is the <b>Bull Inn +Yard</b>, once the City Terminus of Coaches travelling +north-east. From this point Mr. Pickwick started per coach +for Ipswich, accompanied by the red-haired Mr. Peter Magnus; Mr. +Tony Weller officiating as driver. On which occasion we +read that Mr. Weller’s conversation, “possessing the +inestimable charm of blending amusement with instruction,” +beguiled “the tediousness of the journey during the greater +part of the day.”</p> +<p>Returning westward on the other side of the way, the Rambler +may turn, at No. 81, into the <i>Minories</i>; and, at the second +house on the right, may observe the figure of <a +name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span><i>the Wooden +Midshipman</i>, previously referred to as removed from its +original position in Leadenhall Street. The route being +continued (same side) from the Minories, we can note, as we pass +into <i>Fenchurch Street</i>, <b>Aldgate Pump</b>, standing at +the top of Leadenhall Street. There is a reference to this +old pump in “Dombey,” as being a stated object of +<i>Mr. Toots’s</i> special evening excursions from +“The Wooden Midshipman,” when that gentleman desired +some temporary relief from the hopeless contemplation of Walter +Gay’s happiness.</p> +<p>The tourist will now soon arrive at (No. 42) <b>Mincing +Lane</b>, leading to Great Tower Street. This short street +is entirely occupied by wholesale merchants and brokers, and it +will be remembered that <i>Messrs. Chicksey</i>, +<i>Veneering</i>, <i>and Stobbles</i>, wholesale druggists, +flourished in this locality in the days of the “Golden +Dustman.” The fourth house on the left from Fenchurch +Street, next to <i>Dunster Court</i>, has been indicated as the +probable whereabouts of the firm. We may remember that R. +Wilfer’s office was on the ground-floor, next the +gateway.</p> +<p>Here, then, in this prosaic neighbourhood, <i>John +Rokesmith</i>, following <i>Bella Wilfer</i>, came to the +warehouse where Little <i>Rumty</i> was sitting at the open +window at his tea, and much surprised that gentleman by a +declaration of love for his daughter; what time “The Feast +of the Three Hobgoblins” was so agreeably celebrated. +This place is also associated with other pleasant episodes +connected with the history of the Wilfer family, the details of +which are fully furnished in the pages of “Our Mutual +Friend.”</p> +<p>Proceeding through Mincing Lane, we turn to the right through +<i>Eastcheap</i>, which leads westward to the top of <span +class="smcap">Fish Street Hill</span>. The tourist now +proceeds southward, passing the <i>Monument</i> on the +left. At a short distance beyond (No. 34) we arrive at +<i>King’s Head Court</i>, “a small paved yard,” +in which are certain city warehouses and a dairy. On the +south side of the court, now occupied by the warehouses +aforesaid, once stood the Commercial <b>Boarding-House of Mrs. +Todgers</b>—an old-fashioned abode <a +name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>even in the +days of Mr. Pecksniff—which has long since given place to +other commercial considerations. In the 9th chapter of +“Martin Chuzzlewit” full, true, and particular +account is given of this establishment as it used to be. We +may here call to remembrance the characters of <i>Bailey +junior</i>, <i>Mr. Jinkins</i>, <i>Augustus Moddle</i>, and +others in connection with the domestic economy of Mrs. Todgers +and the several Pecksniffian associations of the place; notably, +the festive occasion of that Sunday’s dinner when Cherry +and Merry were first introduced to London society; the moral Mr. +Pecksniff thereafter exhibiting alarming symptoms of a chronic +complaint. (See chapter 9.) And we may indulge in a +kindly reminiscence of good-hearted Mrs. Todgers herself, worried +with the anxieties of “gravy” and the eccentricities +of commercial gentlemen. “Perhaps the Good Samaritan +was lean and lank, and found it hard to live.” We now +come to <b>London Bridge</b>, the scene of Nancy’s +interview with Mr. Brownlow and Rose Maylie (see “Oliver +Twist”), which took place on the steps near St. +Saviour’s Church, on the Surrey side of the +river—</p> +<blockquote><p>“These stairs are a part of the bridge; they +consist of three flights. Just below the end of the second, +going down, the stone wall on the left terminates in an +ornamental pilaster, facing towards the Thames.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And it will be remembered that <i>Noah Claypole</i> here +ensconced himself as an unseen listener.</p> +<p>As we come to the Surrey side of the Thames, a passing thought +may be given to <i>Mrs. Rudge</i> and her son Barnaby, who lived +near at hand “in a by-street in Southwark, not far from +London Bridge”; and we may recall the incident of <i>Edward +Chester</i> being brought hither by <i>Gabriel Varden</i>, having +been found wounded by a highwayman on the other side of the +river. But it is altogether impossible to locate the house, +the neighbourhood having so entirely changed during the present +century. Onwards by the main thoroughfare of the Borough, +we shall find, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 61), the +(former) location of “<b>The White Hart</b>,” +described in “Pickwick” as</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +73</span>“An old inn, which has preserved its external +features unchanged, and which has escaped alike the rage for +public improvement and the encroachments of private +speculation. A great, rambling, queer old place, with +galleries and passages and staircases, wide enough and antiquated +enough to furnish materials for a hundred ghost +stories.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The old inn has been pulled down some years since; the +original gateway only remains, leading to White Hart Yard. +A tavern and luncheon-bar of modern erection now occupy one side +of the old coach-yard in which <i>Messrs. Pickwick</i>, +<i>Wardle</i>, and <i>Perker</i> made their first acquaintance +with <i>Mr. Samuel Weller</i>, on that memorable occasion when +<i>Mr. Jingle</i> had eloped from <i>Dingley Dell</i> with +<i>Miss Rachael Wardle</i>, and had brought the lady to this +establishment. Farther on, towards the end of the Borough, +we arrive at Angel Place, a narrow passage near to St. +George’s Church. It leads into <i>Marshalsea +Place</i>, of which Dickens writes as follows in his preface to +“Little Dorrit”:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Whoever goes into Marshalsea Place, turning +out of Angel Court, leading to Bermondsey, will find his feet on +the very paving-stones of the extinct Marshalsea jail; will see +its narrow yard to the right, and to the left, very little +altered if at all, except that the walls were lowered when the +place got free; will look upon the rooms in which the debtors +lived; and will stand among the crowding ghosts of many miserable +years.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This, then, was <b>The Marshalsea Prison</b>, in which, during +Dickens’s youthful days, his father was imprisoned for +debt; and the place is intimately associated with the story of +<i>Little Dorrit</i> and her family. We must be all +familiar with the Father of the Marshalsea, his brother +Frederick, Maggie, and the several others of the <i>dramatis +personæ</i> of that charming tale.</p> +<p><b>St. George’s Church</b>, close at hand, will be +remembered in connection with the above, as once affording refuge +in its vestry for Little Dorrit, when the sexton accommodated her +with a bed formed of the pew-cushions, the book of registers +doing service as a pillow. She was afterwards married to +Arthur Clennam in this church. Full particulars <a +name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>of the +ceremony will be found in the last chapter of the tale. At +a short distance from this point, down Blackman Street, on the +right, is (No. 90) <b>Lant Street</b>. In Forster’s +Biography it is narrated that Dickens, when a boy, lodged in this +street what time his father was imprisoned in the +Marshalsea. The house stood on part of the site now +occupied by the Board School adjoining No. 46—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A back attic was found for me at the house +of an insolvent-court agent, who lived in Lant Street, in the +Borough, where <i>Bob Sawyer</i> lodged many years +afterwards. A bed and bedding were sent over for me, and +made up on the floor. The little window had a pleasant +prospect of a timber-yard; and when I took possession of my new +abode, I thought it was a Paradise.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This opinion of his boyhood seems to have been somewhat +modified fifteen years later, when the “Pickwick +Papers” were written, and Mr. Robert Sawyer had taken +residence in the locality. We read—</p> +<p>“There is an air of repose about Lant Street, in the +Borough, which sheds a gentle melancholy upon the soul. A +house in Lant Street would not come within the denomination of a +first-rate residence, in the strict acceptation of the term; but +it is a most desirable spot, nevertheless. If a man wished +to extract himself from the world, to remove himself from within +the reach of temptation, to place himself beyond the possibility +of any inducement to look out of the window, he should by all +means go to Lant Street.”</p> +<p>Walking onwards from “this happy valley” past +Suffolk Street, to the westward, turning off <i>Borough Road</i>, +we may note on the north corner the site of the old +<b>King’s Bench Prison</b>, in which <i>Mr. Micawber</i> +was detained—in the top storey but one—pending the +settlement of his pecuniary liabilities. Later on in the +Copperfield history, Micawber appointed a meeting for David and +Tom Traddles as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Among other havens of domestic tranquillity +and peace of mind, my feet will naturally tend towards the +King’s Bench Prison. In stating that I shall be +(D.V.) on the outside of the south wall of that place of +incarceration on civil process, the day after to-morrow, at <a +name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>seven in the +evening, precisely, my object in this epistolary communication is +accomplished.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>See chapter 49 for particulars of the subsequent +interview. This “<i>dead wall</i>” of the +prison is also mentioned in the same book as the place where +young David requested “the long-legged young +man”—who had charge of his box for conveyance to the +Dover coach-office—to stop for a minute while he (David) +tied on the address. It will be remembered that poor David +lost his box and his money on this occasion, when he started for +Dover,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Taking very little more out of the world, +towards the retreat of his aunt, Miss Betsy, than he had brought +into it on the night when his arrival gave her so much +umbrage;”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>the total sum of his remaining cash amounting to three +half-pence.—See chapter 12.</p> +<p>The first reference of our author to King’s Bench Prison +will be found in “Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 46), on +the occasion of the hero’s first visit to <i>Madeline +Bray</i>, who resided with her father in one</p> +<blockquote><p>“Of a row of mean and not over cleanly +houses, situated within ‘the rules’ of the +King’s Bench Prison; . . . comprising some dozen streets in +which debtors who could raise money to pay large fees—from +which their creditors did not derive any benefit—were +permitted to reside.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We learn from Allen’s “History of Surrey” +that these rules comprehended all St. George’s Fields, one +side of Blackman Street, and part of the Borough High Street, +forming an area of about three miles in circumference. They +could be purchased by the prisoners at the rate of five guineas +for small debts, eight guineas for the first hundred pounds of +debt, and about half that sum for every subsequent hundred.</p> +<p>The site of the prison is now occupied by workmen’s +model dwellings named “Queen’s Buildings,” +divided, north and south, by Scovell’s Road.</p> +<p>At the opposite side (east) of <i>Newington Causeway</i>, +which here commences, is <i>Union Road</i>, late <i>Horsemonger +</i><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +76</span><i>Lane</i>; a short distance down which, on its south +side, is “<span class="smcap">The Public Playground for +Children</span>,” formerly the site of <b>Horsemonger Lane +Gaol</b>, erected at the back of the Surrey Sessions House. +Here the execution of the Mannings took place, November 13th, +1849, on which occasion Charles Dickens was present. The +same day he sent a notable letter to the <i>Times</i>, directing +general attention to the demoralising effect of such public +exhibitions; thus setting on foot an agitation which shortly +resulted in the adoption of our present private mode of carrying +out the last penalty of the law. After giving a forcible +and graphic picture of the night scenes enacted by the disorderly +crowd in waiting, the letter was thus continued:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“When the sun rose brightly—as it +did—it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned faces, +so inexpressibly odious in their brutal mirth or callousness, +that a man had cause to shrink from himself as fashioned in the +image of the devil. When the two miserable creatures who +attracted all this ghastly sight about them, were turned +quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more pity, +no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment, no +more restraint in any of the previous obscenities, than if the +name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there was +no belief among men but that they perished like the beasts. +I have seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general +contamination and corruption in this country, and I think there +are not many phases of London life that could surprise me. +I am solemnly convinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise +to be done in this city, in the same compass of time, could work +such ruin as one public execution; and I stand astounded and +appalled by the wickedness it exhibits.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. Chivery</b> resided with his family in <i>Horsemonger +Lane</i>, in close proximity to the old prison, and kept a +tobacconist’s shop for the supply of his Marshalsea +customers and the general public of the neighbourhood—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A rural establishment one storey high, +which had the benefit of the air from the yards of Horsemonger +Lane Jail, and the advantage of a retired walk under the wall of +that pleasant establishment. The business was of too modest +a character to support a life-size Highlander, but it maintained +a little one on a bracket on the door-post, <a +name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>who looked +like a fallen cherub that had found it necessary to take to a +kilt.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In the little back-yard of the premises, “Young +John”—disappointed in love—was accustomed to +sit and meditate; taking cold among the “tuneless +groves” of the newly-washed family linen, and composing +suitable epitaphs to his own memory, in melancholy anticipation +of an early decease.</p> +<p>Proceeding along the Borough Road, we arrive in due course at +<b>St. George’s Obelisk</b>, which stands at the +meeting-point of six roads. In the twelfth chapter of +“David Copperfield” we read of the Obelisk as the +place near to which the “long-legged young man with a very +little empty donkey-cart” was standing, whom David engaged +to take his box to the Dover coach-office for sixpence. And +we all remember the sad <i>dénouement</i> of that +engagement, as previously mentioned. Near at hand, at the +top of Blackfriars Road, stands <b>The Surrey Theatre</b>, at +which <i>Fanny Dorrit</i> was engaged as a dancer, while her +Uncle Frederick played the clarionet in the orchestra.</p> +<p>Crossing over to the opposite thoroughfare of <i>Lambeth +Road</i>, the Rambler will find, at a short distance on the left, +the entrance to <b>Bethlehem Hospital</b>, familiarly known as +Bedlam. A reference to this asylum will be found in the +pages of “The Uncommercial Traveller,” where our +author implies the idea that the sane and insane are, at all +events, equal in their dreams—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Are not all of us outside this Hospital, +who dream more or less, in the condition of those inside it, +every night of our lives?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The question may afford us matter for speculation as the route +is continued through Lambeth Road, at the end of which we turn to +the right, in the direction of the river. At the angle of +the roads, past the Lambeth Police Office, we reach +<b>Christchurch</b>, conspicuous for style and position, at <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>which the +Rev. Newman Hall some years since officiated. We may here +recall the criticism given by Dickens with reference to this +popular preacher in the book above referred to. See +“<i>Two Views of a Cheap Theatre</i>,” as contained +in “The Uncommercial Traveller.”</p> +<p>We now come onwards by <i>Westminster Bridge Road</i>, passing +beneath the span of the London and South-Western Railway. +Near Westminster Bridge, on the left, is the old site of +<b>Astley’s Theatre</b> (non-existent since 1896). +This establishment had cause to bless itself once a quarter, in +days gone by, when Christopher Nubbles, Barbara, and friends +patronised the performance. We may here remember the +occasion when Kit knocked a man over the head with his bundle of +oranges for “scroudging his parent with unnecessary +violence;” also the happy evening that followed, when +little Jacob first saw a play and learnt what oysters meant +(<i>vide</i> the “Old Curiosity Shop”). On the +site formerly occupied by this favourite place of entertainment, +there now stand five handsome houses and shops, Nos. 225 to 233 +Westminster Bridge Road.</p> +<p>Past a few doors beyond these, above, on the same side, we +reach <b>Lambeth Palace Road</b>, turning by which we may walk +(or ride by tramcar) a short distance southward. Leaving on +the right the seven handsome buildings of <span class="smcap">St. +Thomas’s Hospital</span>, we pass—on the +left—farther on, <span class="smcap">Lambeth Episcopal +Palace</span>, and cross the Thames by <span +class="smcap">Lambeth Suspension Bridge</span>.</p> +<p>On the Middlesex shore we come into <i>Millbank Street</i>, +and bestow a brief thought on <b>Poor</b> +“<b>Martha</b>,” following her in imagination as she +took her melancholy way southward in this same street, towards +the waste riverside locality, “near the great blank +prison” of Millbank, long since replaced by <i>Tate’s +Gallery</i>.</p> +<p>Here it will be remembered that <i>David Copperfield</i> and +his trusty friend <i>Mr. Peggotty</i> saved the despairing girl +from a self-sought and miserable death.</p> +<p><a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>At a +few minutes’ distance northward from the bridge, <i>Church +Street</i> will be found, leading (left) to <i>Smith +Square</i>. In this street lived <b>The Dolls’ +Dressmaker</b>, little <i>Jenny Wren</i>. The whimsical +description of the central church—<span class="smcap">St. +John the Evangelist’s</span>—as given in the pages of +“Our Mutual Friend,” may be worth comparison with the +original—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In this region are a certain little street +called Church Street, and a certain little blind square called +Smith Square, in the centre of which last retreat is a very +hideous church, with four towers at the four corners, generally +resembling some petrified monster, frightful and gigantic, on its +back with its legs in the air.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The house in which Jenny and her father lived is stated to +have been one of the modest little houses which stand at the +point where the street gives into Smith Square. The Rambler +will observe four houses answering this description on the north +side of Church Street; No. 9 has been indicated as the humble +home in question, where “<i>the person of the +house</i>” and her “<i>bad boy</i>” +resided. Here, also, <i>Lizzie Hexam</i> lodged for some +time after the death of her father, during the days when her +uncertain lover, <i>Eugene Wrayburn</i>, was yet a bachelor.</p> +<p>We may now return to the main road and continue the northward +route by <i>Abingdon Street</i>, crossing <i>Old Palace +Yard</i>. A passing thought may here be given to Mr. John +Harmon, the <i>Julius Handford</i> of “Our Mutual +Friend,” who furnished the Police authorities with his +address—The Exchequer Coffee House, Palace Yard, +Westminster. Such a house of resort no longer exists in +this vicinity.</p> +<p>On the west side the Rambler passes the precincts of +<b>Westminster Abbey</b>, beneath whose “high embowed +roof” repose the sacred ashes of the illustrious +dead. To this venerable fane—the especial +resting-place of English literary genius—we will return +after our concluding ramble to the birthplace of our greatest +English novelist.</p> +<p>The onward road takes us past the <span class="smcap">Houses +of Parliament</span>, on the right, to <span +class="smcap">Parliament Street</span>, leading to Whitehall and +Charing <a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +80</span>Cross. At a short distance up this thoroughfare is +Derby Street—the first turning on the right; on the north +corner of which there stood—until 1899—an old +public-house, “<b>The Red Lion</b>” (No. 48). +This place may be specially noted as the house at which <i>young +David Copperfield</i> gave his “magnificent order” +for a glass of the “Genuine Stunning,” and where the +landlord’s wife gave him back the money and a kiss +besides. This was an actual experience in the boyhood of +Dickens, and is referred to in Mr. Forster’s Biography, +where the house is indicated as above. It is now being +rebuilt and modernised.</p> +<p>Proceeding by Whitehall, and crossing to the opposite side of +the street, we shortly arrive at <b>The Horse Guards</b>, and may +take passing observation of the <span class="smcap">Old +Clock</span>—famed for its perfection of +time-keeping—by whose warning note <i>Mark Tapley</i> +regulated the period of the interview next referred to. +Passing through the arched passage beneath, we now attain the +eastern side of <b>St. James’s Park</b>. This +locality will be remembered as the place of meeting between +<i>Mary Graham</i> and <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>, previous to his +departure for America. As the young lady was escorted by +Mark in the early morning from a City hotel, we may be certain +that the interview must have taken place on this side of the +Park, doubtless near the principal gate of the promenade facing +the Horse Guards’ entrance.</p> +<p>Leaving the Park northward, by <i>Spring Gardens</i>, we come +into <i>Cockspur Street</i>, shortly leading (left) to <span +class="smcap">Pall Mall</span>. At the first corner of the +latter stands <b>Her Majesty’s Theatre</b>. At this +establishment, as reconstructed during the early years of the +century, <i>Mrs. Nickleby</i> attended, by special invitation of +<i>Sir Mulberry Hawk</i>, Messrs. Pyke and Pluck assisting on +that notable occasion, when, by a prearranged coincidence, Kate +and the Wititterlys occupied the adjoining box.—<i>Vide</i> +“Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 27.</p> +<p>This Opera House was burnt down 1789, and rebuilt the +following year. It was remodelled 1818, and again <a +name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>destroyed by +fire, December 6, 1867. Being a second time rebuilt, it +was, for some seasons, closed since 1875. The present +theatre is of recent and splendid erection.</p> +<p>At this central position, from which we may readily take +departure for any point in London, the present Ramble will +terminate. To all those needing reparation of tissue, a +visit to Epitaux’s Restaurant, near the Haymarket Theatre, +will be satisfactory.</p> +<h2><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>RAMBLE +VI<br /> +<i>Excursion to Chatham</i>, <i>Rochester</i>, <i>and +Gadshill</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Emmanuel Church; Mr. Wemmick’s +Wedding—Dulwich; Mr. Pickwick’s +Retirement—Dulwich Church; Marriage of Snodgrass and Emily +Wardle—Cobham—“The Leather Bottle;” Tracy +Tupman’s Retreat—Mr. Pickwick’s +Discovery—Chatham—Railway Street; Rome Lane +Elementary School—The Brook; Residence of the Dickens +Family—Clover Lane Academy; Rev. William Giles, +Schoolmaster—Fort Pitt; Dr. Slammer’s +Duelling-Ground; the Recreation Ground of Chatham—Star +Hill; Old Rochester Theatre; Mr. Jingle’s +Engagement—Rochester; Eastgate House; The Nuns’ +House—Mr. Sapsea’s Residence—Restoration House; +Residence of Miss Havisham, “Satis House”—[Joe +Gargery’s Forge; Parish of Cooling]—The Monk’s +Vineyard—Minor Canon Row—Rochester Cathedral; The +Crypts—Durdles—The Cathedral Tower—St. Nicholas +Church—The College Gate; John Jasper’s +Lodging—Watts’s Charity; “The Seven Poor +Travellers”—[Watts’s Almshouses]—Miss +Adelaide Procter—The Bull Hotel; the Ball-room—The +Crown Hotel; “The Crozier”—The +Esplanade—Rochester Bridge; Richard +Doubledick—Gadshill Place; Residence of +Dickens—Gravesend; Embarkation of Mr. Peggotty and +friends—Greenwich Park; “Sketches by +Boz”—Church of St. Alphege; Bella Wilfer’s +Marriage—Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern; “An +Innocent Elopement;” The Rokesmith Wedding Dinner.</p> +<p>Starting from the <i>Holborn Viaduct</i> or <i>Ludgate Hill +Station</i> of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we cross +the Thames and proceed <i>en route</i> for the Kentish +uplands. At ten minutes’ distance from the London +terminus, passing the Elephant and Castle and Walworth Road +Stations, we may observe (on the left) the back of <b>Emmanuel +Church</b>, as the train slackens speed for +<i>Camberwell</i>. This may be noted as the place where +<i>Mr. Wemmick</i> and <i>Miss Skiffins</i> were united in the +bonds of matrimony; <a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +83</span>so we may here suitably recall the scene narrated in +“Great Expectations,” and the informal and unexpected +procedure adopted by Mr. W. on that occasion—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We went towards Camberwell Green, and when +we were thereabouts, Wemmick said suddenly, ‘Halloa! +Here’s a church!’ There was nothing very +surprising in that; but again I was rather surprised when he +said, as if he were animated by a brilliant idea, +‘Let’s go in!’ We went in and looked all +round. In the meantime Wemmick was diving into his coat +pockets, and getting something out of paper there. +‘Halloa!’ said he. ‘Here’s a couple +of pairs of gloves! Let’s put ’em +on!’ As the gloves were white kid gloves, I now began +to have my strong suspicions. They were strengthened into +certainty, when I beheld the Aged enter at a side door, escorting +a lady. ‘Halloa!’ said Wemmick. +‘Here’s Miss Skiffins! Let’s have a +wedding!’ . . . True to his notion of seeming to do +it all without preparation, I heard Wemmick say to himself, as he +took something out of his waistcoat pocket before the service +began, ‘Halloa! Here’s a ring!’ . . +. ‘Now, Mr. Pip,’ said Wemmick triumphantly, as +we came out, ‘let me ask you whether anybody would suppose +this to be a wedding party.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The route being continued past <i>Herne Hill Station</i>, the +train arrives at <b>Dulwich</b>, which we may recollect <i>en +passant</i> as being the locality of <b>Mr. Pickwick’s +retirement</b>, before the days of railway locomotion. The +house—a white, comfortable-looking residence—stands +(left) near the station, as we approach, corresponding in style +and position with its Pickwickian description. <i>Mr. +Tupman</i>, too, may have been met with in olden time, walking in +the public promenades or loitering in the Dulwich Picture +Gallery—“with a youthful and jaunty +air”—still in the enjoyment of single blessedness, +and the cynosure of the numerous elderly ladies of the +neighbourhood.</p> +<p><i>Mr. Snodgrass</i> and <i>Emily Wardle</i>, as we all know, +were married at <span class="smcap">Dulwich Church</span>, in +this vicinity; the wedding guests—including “the poor +relations, who got there somehow”—assembling at Mr. +Pickwick’s new house on that interesting occasion; and we +may remember the general <a name="page84"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 84</span>verdict then unanimously given as to +the elegance, comfort, and suitability of our old friend’s +suburban retreat—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Nothing was to be heard but congratulations +and commendations. Everything was so beautiful! The +lawn in front, the garden behind, the miniature conservatory, the +dining-room, the drawing-room, the bedrooms, the smoking-room; +and, above all, the study—with its pictures and easy +chairs, and odd cabinets and queer tables, and nooks out of +number, with a large cheerful window opening upon a pleasant +lawn, and commanding a pretty landscape, just dotted here and +there with little houses, almost hidden by the trees.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Weller</b> and family—retainers +in the Pickwickian establishment—also flourished aforetime +in these arcadian groves, in faithful attendance on their +illustrious patron.</p> +<p>The journey being resumed, we pass onwards (Crystal Palace on +the right side of the railway) <i>viâ Penge</i> and +<i>Bromley</i>, and several country towns beyond—a pleasant +ride of about an hour’s duration—arriving in due +course at <b>Sole Street Station</b> (30 miles from London), +about a mile south-west from the village of <b>Cobham</b>. +A pleasant walk of twenty minutes on the high road will lead the +wayfarer through Owlet to the pretty parish aforesaid; the rural +retreat—famous in the annals of Pickwickian +history—selected by <i>Mr. Tracy Tupman</i> for his +retirement from the world, after his disappointment at the hands +of Miss Rachael Wardle.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p84.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “Leather Bottle”, Cobham" +title= +"The “Leather Bottle”, Cobham" +src="images/p84.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>“<b>The Leather Bottle Inn</b>”—where he was +found at dinner by his anxious friends—is described as +“a clean and commodious village ale-house,” and still +maintains its favourable repute. It stands opposite the +church at Cobham—</p> +<blockquote><p>“At Muggleton they procured a conveyance to +Rochester. By the time they reached the last-named place, +the violence of their grief had sufficiently abated to admit of +their making a very excellent early dinner; and having procured +the necessary information relative to the road, the three friends +set forward again in the afternoon to walk to Cobham.</p> +<p>“A delightful walk it was; for it was a pleasant +afternoon in June, and their way lay through a deep and shady +wood, cooled by the light wind which gently rustled the thick +foliage, and enlivened by the songs <a name="page85"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 85</span>of the birds that perched upon the +boughs. The ivy and the moss crept in thick clusters over +the old trees, and the soft green turf overspread the ground like +a silken mat. They emerged upon an open park, with an +ancient hall, displaying the quaint and picturesque architecture +of Elizabeth’s time. Long vistas of stately oaks and +elm-trees appeared on every side; large herds of deer were +cropping the fresh grass; and occasionally a startled hare +scoured along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by +the light clouds which swept across a sunny landscape like a +passing breath of summer. ‘If this,’ said Mr. +Pickwick, looking about him, ‘if this were the place to +which all who are troubled with our friend’s complaint +came, I fancy their old attachment to this world would very soon +return.’</p> +<p>“‘I think so too,’ said Mr. Winkle.</p> +<p>“‘And really,’ added Mr. Pickwick, after +half-an-hour’s walking had brought them to the village, +‘really, for a misanthrope’s choice, this is one of +the prettiest and most desirable places of residence I ever met +with.’</p> +<p>“In this opinion also both Mr. Winkle and Mr. Snodgrass +expressed their concurrence; and having been directed to the +Leather Bottle, a clean and commodious village ale-house, the +three travellers entered, and at once inquired for a gentleman of +the name of Tupman. The three friends entered a long, +low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of high-backed +leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes, and embellished +with a great variety of old portraits. At the upper end of +the room was a table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered +with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and et ceteras; and at the table +sat Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a man who had taken his leave +of the world as possible.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Resting here awhile, we may recall the “immortal +discovery” made by Mr. Pickwick, “which has been the +pride and boast of his friends and the envy of every antiquarian +in this or any other country”—that famous stone found +by the chairman of the Pickwick Club himself; “partially +buried in the ground in front of a cottage door,” in this +same village of Cobham, on which “the following fragment of +an inscription was clearly to be deciphered”:—</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p85.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cobham Inscription" +title= +"Cobham Inscription" +src="images/p85.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>Full +particulars are duly recorded in “The Pickwick +Papers,” chapter 11. We may also remember the +celebrated controversy in scientific and erudite circles, to +which this remarkable stone gave rise; Mr. Pickwick being +“elected an honorary member of seventeen native and foreign +societies for the discovery.”</p> +<p>The journey being resumed from Sole Street, we travel +<i>viâ Strood</i>, ten miles, to the important station +of</p> +<h3>CHATHAM.</h3> +<p>Mr. Pickwick’s description (taken from his note-book +sixty years since) is a fairly correct view of the general +appearance of Chatham at present:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The principal productions of these towns +appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers, +and dockyardmen. The commodities chiefly exposed for sale +in the public streets are marine stores, hard-bake, apples, +flat-fish, and oysters. The streets present a lively and +animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of +the military.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In this city five years of Dickens’s boyhood were +passed. Mr. Dickens, senior, was appointed in 1816 to a +clerkship at the Naval Pay Office, in connection with the Royal +Dockyard, and the Dickens family here resided till little Charles +was nine years of age.</p> +<p>On arrival at the Chatham Station, we may enter the town on +the right from the railway exit (north side of the line), shortly +passing under an archway into <b>Railway +Street</b>—formerly Rome Lane—in which was once +situated the elementary school where the boy first attended, with +his sister Fanny. Revisiting Chatham in after years, +Dickens found that it had been pulled down</p> +<blockquote><p>“Ages before, but out of the distance of the +ages, arose, nevertheless, a not dim impression that it had been +over a dyer’s shop; that he went up steps to it; that he +had frequently grazed his knees in doing so; and that in trying +to scrape the mud off a very unsteady little shoe, he generally +got his leg over the scraper.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At the upper end of Railway Street we proceed (right) by the +<i>High Street</i>, and at a short distance (left) by <i>Fair +</i><a name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +87</span><i>Row</i> to the <i>Brook</i>. Turning to the +left, we shall find, standing immediately beyond the corner, on +the west side, the old <b>Residence of the Dickens Family</b>, +No. 18, next door to <i>Providence Chapel</i>. The house is +a modest-looking dwelling of three storeys, with white-washed +plaster front as in former days, six steps leading up to the +front door, and a small garden before and behind. The +chapel previously referred to has been, in more recent years, +used for meetings of the Salvation Army, since becoming a +clothing factory. During the residence of the family at +Chatham, the minister of this place of worship was a <i>Mr. +William Giles</i>, who was also the schoolmaster of <b>Clover +Lane Academy</b>. For the last two years of Charles’s +Chatham experience he was placed under the educational +supervision of this young Baptist minister, whose influence seems +to have been favourable to the development of his pupil’s +youthful talents.</p> +<p>Regaining the High Street by <i>Fair Row</i>, and turning to +the left for a short distance onwards, we reach, on the right +hand of the street, past the Mitre Hotel, <b>Clover Street</b>, +on the south side of which (at the corner of Richard Street) the +Academy, with its playground behind, may still be seen. +Forster says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense +in after years, that this first of his masters, in his +little-cared-for childhood, had pronounced him to be a boy of +capacity; and when, about half-way through the publication of +Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver snuff-box with admiring +inscription to ‘the inimitable Boz,’ it reminded him +of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first +year’s examination in the Clover Lane Academy.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Coming through Clover Street, and turning (right) into the +<i>New Road</i>, we shortly regain the neighbourhood of Chatham +Station, on the south side of which a road in the westward +direction leads to <b>Fort Pitt</b>, now the Chatham Military +Hospital. Pickwickians will remember that Fort Pitt was +indicated by Lieutenant Tappleton, the friend of the choleric +<i>Doctor </i><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +88</span><i>Slammer</i>, as being in the vicinity of a field +where the quarrel between the doctor and Mr. Winkle could be +adjusted. This old field, and the contiguous land +surrounding the Fort, now form <b>The Recreation Ground</b> of +the City. Visitors may hence obtain an interesting and +comprehensive view of the town and neighbourhood. We are, +doubtless, all familiar with the happy termination of the affair +of honour above referred to; the unworthy Jingle being at the +bottom of the mischief. Full particulars of the dilemma may +be found in chapter 2 of “The Pickwick Papers.”</p> +<p>Returning to the New Road, the Rambler, passing <span +class="smcap">St. Bartholomew’s Hospital</span> (founded in +the eleventh century) on the right, may proceed by <i>Star +Hill</i>, in the outskirts of Rochester. On the south side +(left) of the descent there may be noted <i>en passant</i> the +new building of the <span class="smcap">Rochester Conservative +Club</span>, which stands on the site of <b>The Old +Theatre</b>. Here the versatile Mr. Jingle and his +melancholic friend, “elegantly designated Dismal +Jemmy,” were engaged to perform “in the piece that +the Officers of the Fifty-second” got up, when Mr. Pickwick +commenced his travels, May 1827.</p> +<p>The theatre was demolished December 1884.</p> +<p>Continuing the route, we soon arrive at the central street of +the old City of</p> +<h3>ROCHESTER.</h3> +<p>This place will be interesting to readers of Dickens for its +several associations with his books, including +“Pickwick,” “Great Expectations,” +“The Seven Poor Travellers,” and “The Mystery +of Edwin Drood,” his latest and uncompleted work. In +chapter 3 of this last-mentioned tale is the following +description:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“An ancient city, Cloisterham, and no meet +dwelling-place for any one with hankerings after the noisy +world. A monotonous, silent city, deriving an earthly +flavour throughout, from its Cathedral crypt. . . . A +drowsy city, Cloisterham, whose inhabitants seem to suppose, with +an inconsistency more strange than rare, that all its changes lie +behind <a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>it, +and that there are no more to come. . . . So silent are the +streets of Cloisterham (though prone to echo on the smallest +provocation), that of a summer day the sunblinds of its shops +scarce dare to flap in the south wind; while the sun-browned +tramps who pass along and stare, quicken their limp a little that +they may the sooner get beyond the confines of its oppressive +respectability. This is a feat not difficult of +achievement, seeing that the streets of Cloisterham city are +little more than one narrow street by which you get into it, and +get out of it; the rest being mostly disappointing yards with +pumps in them and no thoroughfare—exception made of the +Cathedral-close, and a paved Quaker settlement. . . . In a +word, a city of another and a bygone time is Cloisterham, with +its hoarse Cathedral bell, its hoarse rooks hovering about the +Cathedral tower, its hoarser and less distinct rooks in the +stalls far beneath. Fragments of old wall, saint’s +chapel, chapter-house, convent, and monastery have got +incongruously or obstructively built into many of its houses and +gardens, much as kindred jumbled notions have become incorporated +into many of its citizens’ minds. All things in it +are of the past.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p89b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Eastgate House, Rochester" +title= +"Eastgate House, Rochester" +src="images/p89s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Entering the busier part of the town by the Eastgate +thoroughfare, we may shortly observe, on the right, <b>Eastgate +House</b>, now occupied by the <span class="smcap">City of +Rochester Workmen’s Club</span>. It is a fine old +Elizabethan building; a well-preserved specimen of the domestic +architecture of the sixteenth century. The building abuts +on the street, with a large courtyard and entrance at the side; +and a spacious garden is attached at the back of the house. +For more than fifty years (until about twenty years since) this +establishment flourished as a ladies’ boarding-school, and +is referred to in the pages of “Edwin Drood” as +<b>The Nuns’ House</b>, the seminary conducted by the +eminently respectable <i>Miss Twinkleton</i>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In the midst of Cloisterham stands the +Nuns’ House; a venerable brick edifice, whose present +appellation is doubtless derived from the legend of its +conventual uses. On the trim gate enclosing its old +courtyard, is a resplendent brass plate flashing forth the +legend, ‘Seminary for young Ladies. Miss +Twinkleton.’ The house-front is so old and worn, and +the brass plate is so shining and staring, that the general +result has reminded imaginative strangers of a battered old beau +with a large modern eye-glass stuck in his blind eye.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the opposite side of the High Street (Nos. 146 and 147) +stands <a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +90</span><b>Mr. Sapsea’s House</b>. It will be +remembered that we are introduced to <i>Mr. Thomas Sapsea</i>, +auctioneer and Mayor of Cloisterham, in the 4th chapter of the +same book, as being “the purest jackass” in the town; +adopting, in his voice and style, the professional mannerism of +his superiors—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mr. Sapsea ‘dresses at’ the +Dean; has been bowed to for the Dean, in mistake; has even been +spoken to in the street as My Lord, under the impression that he +was the Bishop come down unexpectedly, without his +chaplain. Mr. Sapsea is very proud of this, and of his +voice, and of his style. He has even (in selling landed +property) tried the experiment of slightly intoning in his +pulpit, to make himself more like what he takes to be the genuine +ecclesiastical article. So, in ending a Sale by Public +Auction, Mr. Sapsea finishes off with an air of bestowing a +benediction on the assembled brokers, which leaves the real +Dean—a modest and worthy gentleman—far +behind.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Much of the humorous element of the tale is connected with +this character. According to local tradition, Mr. S. is +supposed to be a combination of two well-known townsmen, formerly +resident in <i>Rochester</i>; a councilman who lived at the above +address, and an auctioneer, once mayor of the city, over whose +door the pulpit spoken of in “Edwin Drood” could have +been seen—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Over the doorway is a wooden effigy, about +half life-size, representing Mr. Sapsea’s father, in a +curly wig and toga, in the act of selling. The chastity of +the idea, and the natural appearance of the little figure, +hammer, and pulpit, have been much admired.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Both the aforesaid local prototypes have departed this life +some time since, and the premises have been occupied by others +(equally competent, but less pretentious) of that ilk.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p90.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Restoration House, Rochester" +title= +"Restoration House, Rochester" +src="images/p90.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We now turn on the left into <i>Crow Lane</i>; at the further +end of which, on the south side, stands <b>Restoration House</b>, +another specimen of the Elizabethan style, in the present +occupation of Stephen T. Aveling, Esq. This residence is of +interest as being the <i>Satis House</i> of “Great +Expectations,” in which <i>Miss Havisham</i> lived. +We may recollect the circumstance of <i>Pip</i> being escorted in +<i>Mr. Pumblechook’s</i> chaise-cart to this address, +“to play” <a name="page91"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 91</span>for the diversion of Miss +Havisham. Here he first met <i>Estella</i>, who then +treated him with extreme contempt, but with whom he fell +desperately in love notwithstanding. Pip says, when +speaking of his departure from the house:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I set off on the four-mile walk to our +forge, pondering, as I went along, on all I had seen, and deeply +revolving that I was a common labouring-boy: that my hands were +coarse; that my boots were thick; that I had fallen into a +despicable habit of calling knaves Jacks; that I was much more +ignorant than I had considered myself last night, and generally +that I was in a low-lived bad way.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>[<b>Joe Gargery’s Forge</b> and wooden house were in the +little village of <i>Cooling</i>, six miles north of +Rochester. The greater part of the parish is marsh-land, +extending to the Thames. Mr. Forster recalls, in his +biography, the occasion when he and his friend stood on the spot; +Dickens saying that “he meant to make it the scene of the +opening of his story—Cooling Castle ruins, and the desolate +church lying out among the marshes, seven miles from +Gadshill.” Here it was that Pip met the convict +<i>Magwitch</i>—by secret appointment—and supplied +him with “wittles” and a file, thus materially +influencing his own future fortunes.]</p> +<p>Turning to the left, we reach the <i>Promenade and Recreation +Ground</i>, called “The Vines,” an open space of more +than three acres, formerly the vinery of the ancient +Priory. It is referred to in “Edwin Drood,” +chapter 14, as the <b>Monk’s Vineyard</b>, in which, near a +wicket-gate in a corner, Edwin met the old woman from the +opium-smoking den in the East end of London, from whom he +received warning of a threatened danger. This is the last +occasion that we read of Edwin Drood previous to his mysterious +disappearance—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The woman’s words are in the rising +wind, in the angry sky, in the troubled water, in the flickering +lights. There is some solemn echo of them even in the +Cathedral chime, which strikes a sudden surprise to his heart as +he turns in under the archway of the Gate house. And so he +goes up the postern stair.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Passing on the right the handsome residence of the <a +name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>Head Master +of the Grammar School, we cross the Vines, and turn on the right +hand to <b>Minor Canon Row</b>, a terrace of seven red-brick +houses at the north end of <i>St. Margaret Street</i> and on the +south side of the Cathedral Close. This locality bears the +appellation, in the before-mentioned book, of <b>Minor Canon +Corner</b>, the residence of the <i>Rev. Septimus Crisparkle</i> +and his mother, the “china shepherdess.” In +chapter 6 we find the following pleasant reference to the +same:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Minor Canon Corner was a quiet place in the +shadow of the Cathedral, which the cawing of the rooks, the +echoing footsteps of rare passers, the sound of the Cathedral +bell, or the roll of the Cathedral organ, seemed to render more +quiet than absolute silence. . . . Red-brick walls +harmoniously toned down in colour by time, strong-rooted ivy, +latticed windows, panelled rooms, big oaken beams in little +places, and stone-walled gardens where annual fruit yet ripened +upon monkish trees, were the principal surroundings of pretty old +Mrs. Crisparkle and the Reverend Septimus as they sat at +breakfast.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Immediately north of this position stands the old <b>Cathedral +of Rochester</b>, with its “well-known massive grey square +tower,” in which, we may remember, the respected <i>Mr. +John Jasper</i> was engaged as Lay Precentor; with the reputation +of being devoted to his art, and “having done such wonders +with the choir.” In the interior, on the wall of the +south-west transept, is a quaint monument to the memory of +<i>Richard Watts</i>, a prominent townsman to whom further +reference will be made. Underneath this is placed a brass +memorial-tablet, inscribed—</p> +<blockquote><p>“<span class="smcap">Charles +Dickens</span>.—Born at Portsmouth, seventh of February +1812. Died at Gadshill Place, by Rochester, ninth of June +1870. Buried in Westminster Abbey. To connect his +memory with the scenes in which his earliest and his latest years +were passed, and with the associations of Rochester Cathedral and +its neighbourhood, which extended over all his life, this tablet, +with the sanction of the Dean and Chapter, is placed by his +executors.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The author’s latest suggestive sketch, in association +with this ancient fane, may be here suitably recalled:—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +93</span>“A brilliant morning shines on the old city. +Its antiquities and ruins are surpassingly beautiful, with the +lusty ivy gleaming in the sun, and the rich trees waving in the +balmy air. Changes of glorious light from moving boughs, +songs of birds, scents from gardens, woods, and fields—or, +rather, from the one great garden of the whole cultivated island +in its yielding time—penetrate into the Cathedral, subdue +its earthy odour, and preach the Resurrection and the Life. +The cold stone tombs of centuries ago grow warm; and flecks of +brightness dart into the sternest marble corners of the building, +fluttering there like wings.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Crypts</b> below contain the “buried magnates of +ancient time and high degree,” with whom <b>Durdles</b>, +the stonemason, was on terms of intimate familiarity—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In the demolition of impedimental fragments +of wall, buttress, and pavement he has seen strange sights. . . +. Thus he will say, ‘Durdles come upon the old chap, +by striking right into the coffin with his pick. The old +chap gave Durdles a look with his open eyes, as much as to say, +Is your name Durdles? Why, my man, I’ve been waiting +for you a Devil of a time!’ And then he turned to +powder. With a two-foot rule always in his pocket, and a +mason’s hammer all but always in his hand, Durdles goes +continually sounding, and tapping all about and about the +Cathedral; and whenever he says to Tope, ‘Tope, +here’s another old ’un in here,’ Tope announces +it to the Dean as an established discovery.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It is believed that the prototype of this character was an old +German working stonemason, who lived at Rochester many years +since. He employed himself by carving various grotesque +figures out of odd fragments of soft stone found in the Cathedral +crypt, which he begged for the purpose; and it is recollected +that he was accustomed to carry these articles of <i>vertu</i> +about the town, tied up in a coloured handkerchief; also that, +whenever he succeeded in effecting a sale, he immediately +celebrated the transaction by getting very tipsy. He lodged +at a public-house named “The Fortune of War,” now +known as “<i>The Lifeboat</i>.”</p> +<p>Chapter 12, headed “A Night with Durdles,” +contains a description of the ascent of the <b>Cathedral +Tower</b>, to the following effect:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They go up the winding staircase . . . +among the cobwebs and <a name="page94"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 94</span>the dust. Twice or thrice they +emerge into level low-arched galleries, whence they can look down +into the moonlight nave. . . Anon they turn into narrower +and steeper staircases, and the night air begins to blow upon +them, and the chirp of some startled jackdaw or frightened rook +precedes the heavy beating of wings in a confined space, and the +beating down of dust and straws upon their heads. At last, +leaving their light behind a stair—for it blows fresh up +here—they look down on Cloisterham, fair to see in the +moonlight: its ruined habitations and sanctuaries of the dead, at +the tower’s base: its moss-softened red-tiled roofs and +red-brick houses of the living, clustered beyond: its river +winding down from the mist on the horizon, as though that were +its source, and already heaving with a restless knowledge of its +approach towards the sea.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Before leaving the Cathedral precincts, on the north side we +soon pass <b>St. Nicholas Church</b>, and may note its pleasant +little graveyard—“where daisies blossom on the +verdant sod”—lying near the old walls of the Castle +and its contiguous gardens. It is said that this is the +spot which Dickens himself would have preferred as his last +resting-place.</p> +<p>We now approach the High Street by <b>The College Gate</b> +(facing <i>Pump Lane</i>), an old gatehouse with archway, having +two exterior doors, standing angle-wise in the street, with a +small postern at the back of the gate. The house, now +occupied by the assistant verger, is a gabled wooden structure of +two storeys, built over the stone gateway beneath. Students +of Dickens will remember that this was the residence of <i>Mr. +Tope</i>, “chief verger and showman” of the +Cathedral, with whom lodged Mr. John Jasper, the uncle of Edwin +Drood. It is first referred to in the 2nd chapter of the +book: “an old stone gatehouse crossing the Close, with an +arched thoroughfare passing beneath it,” decorated by +“pendant masses of ivy and creeper covering the +building’s front.” Here Mr. Jasper entertained +his nephew and his nephew’s friend; and we also read of +<i>Mr. Grewgious</i> climbing “the postern +stair.” On this latter occasion the old lawyer called +on Mr. Jasper, visiting Cloisterham in preparation for their +formal release as trustees on Edwin’s attaining his +majority.</p> +<p>Turning to the right, on the opposite side of the High <a +name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Street, we +soon reach a stone-fronted edifice, with small windows and three +gables, known as <b>The Poor Travellers’ House</b>. +This charity was established 1579, by a local philanthropist, +<span class="smcap">Richard Watts</span>, formerly citizen of +Rochester, who rose from a humble position to be Member of +Parliament for the City. He entertained Queen Elizabeth at +his mansion (in 1573), a white house situated near the Castle +gardens, and called <i>Satis House</i>. It will be +recollected that Dickens transferred this name to Restoration +House, situated in Crow Lane. It is said that the +appellation was bestowed on the mansion by the virgin queen +herself, in recognition of the “satisfactory” +entertainment afforded by her host. <i>Estella</i> gives +another explanation of the title: “It meant, when it was +given, that whoever had this house could want nothing else. +They must have been easily satisfied.”</p> +<p><b>Watts’s Charity</b>, the Travellers’ Rest +aforesaid, is associated with the Christmas Number of +<i>Household Words</i> (1854), entitled “<span +class="smcap">The Seven Poor Travellers</span>;” in which +the inscription over the quaint old door is reproduced as +follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">RICHARD WATTS, ESQ.,<br +/> +by his will dated 22 August 1579,<br /> +founded this charity<br /> +for six poor travellers,<br /> +Who not being Rogues, or Proctors<br /> +may receive gratis for one night,<br /> +Lodging, Entertainment,<br /> +and four-pence each.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The entertainment herein specified comprises for each +traveller, a supper of half a pound of freshly-cooked meat, one +pound of bread, and a half-pint of beer, which is given in +addition to the stated fourpence payable in the morning.</p> +<p>[This gentleman’s memory is also perpetuated in the +charitable annals of the district by a handsome pile of +buildings, in the Elizabethan style, on the Maidstone Road, +called <span class="smcap">Watts’s +Almshouses</span>—with pleasure-grounds in <a +name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>front, +affording accommodation for ten men and ten women, who also +receive twelve shillings each per week. The Institution is +superintended by a matron and governed by sixteen trustees.]</p> +<p>We are doubtless familiar with the Christmas Eve entertainment +here provided by the narrator of “The Seven Poor +Travellers,” as above:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“It was settled that at nine o’clock +that night a Turkey and a piece of Roast Beef should smoke upon +the board, and that I, faint and unworthy minister for once of +Master Richard Watts, should preside as the Christmas-supper host +of the six Poor Travellers.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And we must all have a vivid recollection of the processional +order of supply on that festive opportunity:—</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><blockquote><p style="text-align: +center">“Myself with the pitcher.<br /> +Ben with Beer.</p> +</blockquote> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Inattentive Boy +with hot plates.</p> +</blockquote> +</td> +<td><blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Inattentive Boy +with hot plates.</p> +</blockquote> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">The Turkey</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Female carrying sauces to be heated +on the spot.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">The +Beef</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Man with Tray on his head, +containing Vegetables and<br /> +Sundries.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Volunteer Hostler from Hotel, +grinning,<br /> +and rendering no assistance.”</p> +</blockquote> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>After hearty discussion of the orthodox plum-pudding and +mince-pies which crowned the feast, the company drew round the +fire, and the “brown beauty” of the host—the +pitcher, carried first in the procession—was elevated to +the table. It proved to be “a glorious jorum” +of hot Wassail, prepared from the chairman’s special and +private receipt, the materials of which, “together with +their proportions and combinations,” he declines to +impart. Glasses being filled therefrom, the toast of the +evening was duly and reverently honoured: “<span +class="smcap">Christmas</span>! <span +class="smcap">Christmas Eve</span>, my friends; when the +Shepherds, who were poor travellers too, in their way, heard the +angels sing, ‘On earth peace. Goodwill toward +men!’”</p> +<p><a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>The pen +of the “Inimitable” was never in more genial feather +than when inditing this Christmas story, the cheery and +sympathetic humour of which is not excelled even by the +“Carol” itself.</p> +<p>Another Dickensian association with this Rochester Charity may +be quoted in connection with <b>Miss Adelaide Procter</b>. +During ’54 this lady had been a valued contributor to +<i>Household Words</i>, under the assumed name of +“Berwick,” and some speculation arose in the +editorial department as to the real personality of the +writer. The <i>nom de plume</i> being, in course of time, +relinquished, and the secret told, Mr. Dickens sent a letter of +congratulation and appreciation to the young +authoress—dated December 17th, 1854—which thus +concluded: “Pray accept the blessing and forgiveness of +Richard Watts, though I am afraid you come under <i>both his +conditions of exclusion</i>.”</p> +<p>Retracing the High Street route, we again pass the Gate-house +of the Cathedral Close, and come, immediately on the left, to the +noted <b>Bull Hotel</b>, a commodious establishment of ancient +and respectable repute, and the principal posting-house of the +town. This is the celebrated hostelry at which the +Pickwickians sojourned on the occasion of their first visit to +Rochester, per “Commodore” coach from London. +In the large assembly-room upstairs—“a long room, +with crimson-covered benches, and wax candles in glass +chandeliers, with the musicians securely confined in an elevated +den”—the memorable Ball took place, on the evening of +their arrival, which was attended by <i>Mr. Tupman</i> and his +seductive friend <i>Jingle</i>; the latter affording some +information as to the exclusive character of Rochester +society:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘Wait a minute,’ said the +stranger, ‘fun presently—nobs not come +yet—queer place. Dockyard people of upper rank +don’t know Dockyard people of lower rank. Dockyard +people of lower rank don’t know small gentry—small +gentry don’t know tradespeople—Commissioner +don’t know anybody.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here Mr. Jingle, on that fateful occasion, gave dire <a +name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>offence to +Doctor Slammer, of the 97th Regiment, by making himself +obtrusively agreeable to the rich little widow, Mrs. Budger; and +we may remember how the Doctor, with his “hitherto +bottled-up indignation effervescing from all parts of his +countenance in a perspiration of passion,” insisted on a +hostile meeting.</p> +<p>The hotel has a frontage of about 90 feet, with wide pillared +gateway, and extensive stabling at the back. Proceeding +past the Guildhall on the right, towards the end of the street, +facing Rochester Bridge, we arrive at <b>The Crown Hotel</b>, +pleasantly situated at the corner of the Esplanade and High +Street, one side of the house facing the Medway; a white-brick +edifice lately rebuilt. It is referred to in chapter 18 of +“Edwin Drood” as “<i>The Crozier</i>,” +the orthodox hotel at which <i>Mr. Datchery</i> took up his +temporary abode, previous to settling in Cloisterham as “a +single buffer—an idle dog who lived upon his +means.” Other visitors to Rochester may +advantageously imitate Mr. Datchery’s example, the position +and conduct of the house being alike excellent.</p> +<p>Round the corner to the left, commences <b>The Esplanade</b>, +extending under the castle walls, and along the bank of the river +for a considerable distance. This promenade is mentioned in +the 13th chapter of “Edwin Drood,” being the scene of +the last interview between Edwin and Rosa, when they mutually +agreed to cancel the irksome bond between them—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They walked on by the river. They +began to speak of their separate plans. He would quicken +his departure from England, and she would remain where she was, +at least as long as Helena remained. The poor dear girls +should have their disappointment broken to them gently, and, as +the first preliminary, Miss Twinkleton should be confided in by +Rosa, even in advance of the reappearance of Mr. Grewgious. +It should be made clear in all quarters that she and Edwin were +the best of friends. There had never been so serene an +understanding between them since they were first +affianced.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Leaving Rochester by <b>The Bridge</b>, crossing the Medway, +we may bestow a passing thought on <i>Richard Doubledick</i> as +he came over the <a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +99</span>same, “with half a shoe to his dusty feet,” +in the year 1799, limping into the town of Chatham. (See +“The Seven Poor Travellers,” previously +mentioned.)</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p99.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Gadshill Place" +title= +"Gadshill Place" +src="images/p99.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On the north side of the river, the Rambler enters the town of +<i>Strood</i>, and may proceed through the same, about two miles +on the Gravesend Road, to</p> +<h3>GADSHILL PLACE,</h3> +<p>the last residence of Charles Dickens. It is situated on +the left-hand side, nearly opposite the <i>Falstaff +Inn</i>. The house was purchased by him on the 14th of +March 1856, for £1790; and he afterwards projected and +carried out many costly additions and improvements thereto. +On the first-floor landing is displayed an illuminated frame (the +work of Mr. Owen Jones), which reads as follows:—</p> +<p>“<span class="smcap">This House</span>, <span +class="smcap">Gadshill Place</span>, stands on the summit of +Shakespeare’s Gadshill, ever memorable for its association +with Sir John Falstaff in his noble +fancy—‘<i>But</i>, <i>my lads</i>, <i>my lads</i>, +<i>to-morrow morning</i>, <i>by four o’clock</i>, <i>early +at Gadshill</i>! <i>there are pilgrims going to Canterbury with +rich offerings</i>, <i>and traders riding to London with fat +purses</i>: <i>I have vizards for you all</i>; <i>you have horses +for yourselves</i>.’”</p> +<p>On this residence Dickens had fixed his choice in his boyish +days. It had always held a prominent place amid the +recollections connected with his childhood. Forster says +that “upon first seeing it as he came from Chatham with his +father, and looking up at it with admiration, he had been +promised that he might live in it himself, or some such house, +when he came to be a man, if he would only work hard +enough.” It is pleasant to record that this ambition +was gratified in after life, when the dream of his boyhood was +realised.</p> +<p>In the contiguous shrubbery was placed a <b>Swiss Chalet</b>, +presented to Dickens by his friend Mr. Fechter, which arrived +from Paris in ninety-four pieces, fitting like the joints of a +puzzle. Our author was fond of working in this chalet +during the summer months; and in it, much of the material of his +latest work was prepared.</p> +<p><a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>In +sad association with Gadshill Place, we must refer to the +unexpected <b>Death of Charles Dickens</b>, which occurred here +on the 9th of June 1870. He had been feeling weary and +fatigued for some days previous to this date, but had +nevertheless continued to work with cheerfulness, writing in the +chalet, in preparation of the sixth number of “Edwin +Drood.” On the 8th of June, whilst at dinner, he was +suddenly attacked with apoplexy, and never spoke afterwards; and +on the evening of the following day—with one rolling tear +and one deep sigh—his gentle spirit soared beyond these +earthly shadows,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Into the Land of +the Great Departed,<br /> +Into the Silent Land.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>An interval being allowed for refreshments at the Falstaff +Inn, <i>à discrétion</i>, we may resume the road +onwards to the nearest station of <span +class="smcap">Higham</span>—about a mile +distant—whence the South-Eastern Railway may be taken for +the homeward journey. At five miles’ distance we +reach <b>Gravesend</b>, which is situated at the foot of the +hills, extending for some two miles on the south side of the +Thames. This town is the boundary of the port of London, at +which many outward and homeward bound vessels on foreign service +receive or discharge their passengers and freight. As we +pass this station we may remember that in chapter 57 of +“David Copperfield,” Gravesend is referred to as the +starting-point of <b>Mr. Peggotty</b> and his niece, emigrating +to Australia, and accompanied by <i>Martha</i>, <i>Mrs. +Gummidge</i>, <i>and the Micawber family</i>. The parting +with his friends David describes as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We went over the side into our boat, and +lay at a little distance to see the ship wafted on her +course. It was then calm, radiant sunset. She lay +between us and the red light, and every taper line and spar was +visible against the glow. A sight at once so beautiful, so +mournful, and so hopeful, as the glorious ship lying still on the +flushed water, with all the life on board her crowded at the +bulwarks, and there clustering for a moment, bareheaded and +silent, I never saw. Silent, <a name="page101"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 101</span>only for a moment. As the +sails rose to the wind, and the ship began to move, there broke +from all the boats three resounding cheers, which those on board +took up and echoed back, and which were echoed and re-echoed . . +. Surrounded by the rosy light . . . they solemnly passed +away.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the +Rambler will arrive in due course at the station of <span +class="smcap">Greenwich</span>, eighteen miles from +Gravesend. Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the +south side of the line—through <i>London Street</i>, +turning right by end of <i>Church Street</i>—will lead us +to the entrance of <b>Greenwich Park</b>. This well-known +place of popular resort was referred to by Dickens in his first +contributions to the <i>Evening Chronicle</i>, 1835, which were +afterwards collected under the name of “Sketches by +Boz.” The sketch is entitled “<i>Greenwich +Fair</i>,” and gives descriptions of the doings in the park +at that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The principal amusement is to drag young +ladies up the steep hill which leads to the Observatory, and then +drag them down again at the very top of their speed, greatly to +the derangement of their curls and bonnet-caps, and much to the +edification of lookers-on from below.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by +<i>Church Street</i>, on the left hand of which, past <i>London +Street</i>, stands the <b>Church of St. Alphege</b>, a handsome +edifice in classic style. The happy wedding of <i>Bella +Wilfer</i> and <i>John Rokesmith</i>, otherwise <i>Harmon</i>, +here took place, in the presence of a “gruff and glum old +pensioner” from the neighbouring hospital, with two wooden +legs. We may also recall the circumstance of Mr. and Mrs. +Boffin’s attendance, that worthy couple being hid away near +the church organ.</p> +<p>Following the route northward, we may soon reach <i>King +William Street</i>, by the river side, in which is situated +<b>Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern</b>. This is the place +where the “lovely woman” and her father once dined +together on the occasion of their “innocent +elopement.” (See “Our <a +name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>Mutual +Friend,” chapter 8, Book 2.) It may be also +remembered as the hotel at which was celebrated the wedding +dinner of <i>Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith</i> aforesaid, “dear +little Pa” being the honoured guest of that blissful +opportunity. We may here also recollect the dignified +bearing of the head waiter—The Archbishop of +Greenwich—“a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a +white cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than +<i>the</i> clergyman, and seemed to have mounted a great deal +higher in the church.”</p> +<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Greenwich</span>, a short ride of +twenty minutes (six miles), following the course of the river, +will bring us to the <span class="smcap">Charing Cross +Terminus</span>, in central London.</p> +<h2><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +103</span>RAMBLE VII<br /> +Excursion to Canterbury and Dover</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Route by London, Chatham and Dover Railway, +<i>viâ</i> Sittingbourne and Faversham to Canterbury; The +Queen’s Head Inn, “the little hotel” patronised +by the Micawbers—By Mercery Lane and Christ Church Gate to +Cathedral Close for King’s School, the Establishment at +which David Copperfield was educated—Dr. Strong’s +House—The Fleur de Lys Hotel; Mr. Dick’s +stopping-place at Canterbury—The George and Dragon Inn; the +old London Coach Office—Palace Street and Church of St. +Alphege; the scene of Dr. Strong’s marriage to Miss Annie +Markleham—No. 65 North Lane, the “’umble +dwelling” of Uriah Heep, afterwards the residence of the +Micawber Family—71 St. Dunstan Street; Mr. +Wickfield’s house, and Home of Agnes—Canterbury to +Dover—Corner of Church and Castle Streets, Market Place; +David’s resting-place—Priory Hill, Stanley Mount; +Miss Betsy Trotwood’s Residence—“The +King’s Head”; Mr. Lorry, Lucie Manette, and Miss +Pross—The Staplehurst Disaster—Postscript to +“Our Mutual Friend.”</p> +<p>The excursion proposed in Ramble VI. to Chatham, Rochester, +Gadshill, etc. (see page 82), could be advantageously extended to +include <span class="smcap">Canterbury</span> and <span +class="smcap">Dover</span>, for visiting the localities in these +towns associated with the history of David Copperfield.</p> +<p>Beyond <b>Chatham</b> the journey is continued on the <span +class="smcap">London</span>, <span class="smcap">Chatham and +Dover Railway</span>, by three minor stations to <span +class="smcap">Sittingbourne</span>, formerly a favourite +resting-place for pilgrims (as its name would seem to indicate) +<i>en route</i> for Canterbury; but the modern mode of travel +only now necessitates a halt of twenty minutes. Passing +<span class="smcap">Teynsham</span> and <span +class="smcap">Faversham</span>, the train proceeds by the +intermediate station of <span class="smcap">Selling</span>, to +the fair old city of</p> +<h3>CANTERBURY,</h3> +<p>pleasantly situated on the banks of the Stour. Seat of +the <a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +104</span>Primate of England, where, as Mr. Micawber writes, +“the society may be described as a happy admixture of the +agricultural and the clerical.” A quaint and quiet +cathedral town, redolent with fragrant memories of <i>Agnes +Wickfield</i>, fairest type of English womanhood—her +father, and friends.</p> +<p>Proceeding from the station towards the Cathedral, by <span +class="smcap">Castle Street</span>, we reach the old Roman road +of <span class="smcap">Watling Street</span> (extending from +Chester to Dover), at the south corner of which (right), and +facing <span class="smcap">St. Margaret Street</span>, stands the +“<b>Queen’s Head Inn</b>.” This is +“the little hotel” patronised by Mr. and Mrs. +Micawber on the occasion of their first visit to Canterbury, as +related in chapter 17 of “David +Copperfield”—“Somebody turns up.”</p> +<blockquote><p>“It was a little inn where Mr. Micawber put +up, and he occupied a little room in it, partitioned off from the +commercial room, and strongly flavoured with tobacco smoke. +I think it was over the kitchen, because a warm greasy smell +appeared to come up through the chinks in the floor, and there +was a flabby perspiration on the walls. I know it was near +the bar, on account of the smell of spirits and jingling of +glasses. Here, recumbent on a small sofa, underneath a +picture of a race-horse, with her head close to the fire, and her +feet pushing the mustard off the dumb-waiter at the other end of +the room, was Mrs. Micawber, to whom Mr. Micawber entered first, +saying, ‘My dear, allow me to introduce to you a pupil of +Dr. Strong’s.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It will be remembered that the amiable lady thus referred to, +here confidentially explained to David the reason of their visit +to this part of the country—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘Mr. Micawber was induced to think, +on inquiry, that there might be an opening for a man of his +talent in the Medway Coal Trade. Then, as Mr. Micawber very +properly said, the first step to be taken clearly was to come and +see the Medway; which we came and saw. I say +‘we,’ Master Copperfield, ‘for I never +will,’ said Mrs. Micawber with emotion, ‘I never will +desert Mr. Micawber. . . . Being so near here, Mr. Micawber +was of opinion that it would be rash not to come on and see the +Cathedral—firstly, on account of its being so well worth +seeing, and our never having seen it; and, secondly, on account +of the great probability of something turning up in a cathedral +town.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We may also recollect the dinner and convivial evening <a +name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>thereafter, +celebrated two days later at this address, when David attended as +the honoured guest of the occasion—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We had a beautiful little dinner. +Quite an elegant dish of fish; the kidney-end of a loin of veal, +roasted; fried sausage-meat; a partridge, and a pudding. +There was wine, and there was strong ale; and after dinner Mrs. +Micawber made us a bowl of hot punch with her own hands. +Mr. Micawber was uncommonly convivial. I never saw him such +good company. He made his face shine with the punch, so +that it looked as if it had been varnished all over. He got +cheerfully sentimental about the town, and proposed success to +it, observing that Mrs. Micawber and himself had been made +extremely snug and comfortable there, and that he never should +forget the agreeable hours they had passed in +Canterbury.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Later on there is recorded in the Copperfield autobiography +(chapter 42) how David, accompanied by his aunt and +friends—Messrs. Dick and Traddles—sojourned for the +night at this same hotel. They had arrived at Canterbury by +the Dover Mail, as desired by Mr. Micawber, in readiness to +assist the next day at the memorable “Explosion” +which resulted in the final discomfiture of <i>Uriah Heep</i>, +“the Forger and the Cheat”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“At the hotel where Mr. Micawber had +requested us to await him, which we got into, with some trouble, +in the middle of the night, I found a letter, importing that he +would appear in the morning punctually at half-past nine. +After which, we went shivering at that uncomfortable hour to our +respective beds, through various close passages, which smelt as +if they had been steeped for ages in a solution of soup and +stables.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Following the course of St. Margaret Street northward, and +passing (left) the old <span class="smcap">Church of St. +Margaret</span>—recently restored by Sir Gilbert +Scott—we soon arrive at the central main thoroughfare, +which here divides the town, extending from St. Dunstan’s +Church (west) to the New Dover Road, leaving Canterbury on the +east.</p> +<p>Crossing the <span class="smcap">High Street</span>, and +continuing northward through the narrow thoroughfare of <span +class="smcap">Mercery Lane</span> (on the opposite +side)—once the resort of the many pilgrims who came +aforetime to worship at the shrine of <a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span>Thomas-à-Becket—we +enter the precincts of the Cathedral by <span +class="smcap">Christ Church Gate</span> (16th century).</p> +<p>Turning to the right within the Close, and passing the +secluded residences of several “grave and reverend +seigniors,” we may find, on the farther side, +<b>King’s School</b>, an educational establishment of good +repute and old foundation, pleasantly and quietly situated. +The school is supervised by certain “worthy and approved +good masters,” successors to the amiable <span +class="smcap">Doctor Strong</span> and assistants, under whose +careful tutorship David Copper-field was educated after his +adoption by Miss Betsy Trotwood. In the commencement of +chapter 16 of his autobiography, David thus describes the +place:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Next morning, after breakfast, I entered on +school life again. I went, accompanied by Mr. Wickfield, to +the scene of my future studies—a grave building in a +courtyard, with a learned air about it that seemed very well +suited to the stray rooks and jackdaws who came down from the +Cathedral towers to walk with a clerkly bearing on the +grass-plot—and was introduced to my new master, Doctor +Strong.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Doctor Strong’s Private Residence</b>—at which +“some of the higher scholars boarded”—is an +antiquated house, situated at the corner of <span +class="smcap">Lady’s Green</span> (No. 1), at a short +distance eastward. Here David was a frequent visitor, +learning particulars of the Doctor’s history, and becoming +intimate with the various personages therewith connected. +Pleasant reminiscences of the doings and sayings of <i>Mrs. +Markleham</i>—“the Old Soldier” (so called by +the boys “on account of her generalship, and the skill with +which she marshalled great forces of relations against the +Doctor”)—the tender associations which cluster round +the story of <i>Annie</i>, the good doctor’s true-hearted +wife; with a casual recollection of the family +cousin—<i>Mr. Jack Maldon</i>—(no better than he +should be)—may combine to enhance the interest of a visit +to this old-fashioned but comfortable home.</p> +<p>Crossing the <span class="smcap">Lady’s Green</span> +towards the gate of the ancient <span class="smcap">Augustinian +Monastery</span>, and proceeding onwards by <span +class="smcap">Monastery Street</span>, we may find at the end and +<a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>corner +of the street, on the left hand, a noteworthy antique-looking +house, partly incorporated with a second gate of the old +Monastery, at present the residence of a gentleman of the medical +profession. In bygone time this house was a point of +considerable attraction to David during his later school-days at +Canterbury, as being the home of “<b>The Eldest Miss +Larkins</b>,” his second love. In chapter 18, as we +may remember, is contained a very pleasant piece of natural +sketching, entitled “A Retrospect,” comprising, +<i>inter alia</i>, the story of his youthful passion. David +says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I worship the eldest Miss Larkins. +The eldest Miss Larkins is not a little girl. She is a +tall, dark, black-eyed, fine figure of a woman. The eldest +Miss Larkins is not a chicken, for the youngest Miss Larkins is +not that, and the eldest must be three or four years older. +Perhaps the eldest Miss Larkins may be about thirty. My +passion for her is beyond all bounds. . . . Everything that +belongs to her, or is connected with her, is precious to +me. Mr. Larkins (a gruff old gentleman with a double chin, +and one of his eyes immovable in his head) is fraught with +interest to me. . . . I regularly take walks outside Mr. +Larkins’s house in the evening, though it cuts me to the +heart to see the officers go in, or to hear them up in the +drawing-room, where the eldest Miss Larkins plays the harp. +I even walk, on two or three occasions, in a sickly spooney +manner, round and round the house after the family are gone to +bed, wondering which is the eldest Miss Larkins’s chamber +(and pitching, I dare say now, on Mr. Larkins’s instead), +wishing that a fire would burst out; that the assembled crowd +would stand appalled; that I, dashing through them with a ladder, +might rear it against her window, save her in my arms, go back +for something she had left behind, and perish in the +flames.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The <b>Drawing-Room</b> here mentioned is situated above the +old Monastery Gate, between the two towers which stand on either +side. We may recollect it was here that David, having +received an invitation to a private ball given at the +Larkins’s, enjoyed his first dance with “his dear +divinity;” afterwards being introduced to <i>Mr. +Chestle</i>, a hop-grower from the neighbourhood of Ashford, +“a friend of the family,” and—alas for +David!—the future husband of the eldest Miss +Larkins—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I waltz with the eldest Miss Larkins! +I don’t know where, among whom, or how long. I only +know that I swim about in space with a <a +name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>blue angel, +in a state of blissful delirium. . . . I am lost in the +recollection of this delicious interview, and the waltz, when she +comes to me again, with a plain, elderly gentleman, who has been +playing whist all night, upon her arm, and says, ‘Oh, here +is my bold friend! Mr. Chestle wants to know you, Mr. +Copperfield.’ I feel at once that he is a friend of +the family, and am much gratified. . . . I think I am in a +happy dream. I waltz again with the eldest Miss +Larkins. She says I waltz so well! I go home in a +state of unspeakable bliss, and waltz in imagination, all night +long, with my arm round the blue waist of my dear +divinity.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Proceeding westward, we pass along the opposite roadway which +faces the house above referred to, by Church Street St. Paul, and +Burgate Street, to the Old Cathedral entrance.</p> +<p>As the Rambler returns, again traversing Mercery Lane, there +may be noted on the left—No. 14—a respectable +<b>Butcher’s Shop</b>, now in the keeping of Mr. +Cornes. It is evident from its position, near Christ Church +Gate, that this was the establishment where flourished, in days +of yore, that obnoxious “young butcher” who was +“the terror of the youth of Canterbury,” and the +especial enemy of the pupils at King’s School. In +chapter 18—“A Retrospect”—Copperfield +writes as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“There is a vague belief abroad that the +beef suet with which he anoints his hair gives him unnatural +strength, and that he is a match for a man. He is a +broad-faced, bull-necked young butcher, with rough red cheeks, an +ill-conditioned mind, and an injurious tongue. His main use +of this tongue is to disparage Dr. Strong’s young +gentlemen. He says publicly that if they want anything +he’ll give it ’em. He names individuals among +them (myself included) whom he could undertake to settle with one +hand, and the other tied behind him. He waylays the smaller +boys to punch their unprotected heads, and calls challenges after +me in the open streets. For these sufficient reasons I +resolve to fight the butcher.</p> +<p>“It is a summer evening, down in a green hollow, at the +corner of a wall. I meet the butcher by appointment. +I am attended by a select body of our boys; the butcher by two +other butchers, a young publican, and a sweep. The +preliminaries are adjusted, and the butcher and myself stand face +to face. In a moment the butcher lights ten thousand +candles out of my left eyebrow. In another moment I +don’t know where the wall is, or where I am, or where +anybody is. I hardly know which is myself and which the +butcher; we are always in such a tangle and tussle, knocking +about upon the trodden grass. Sometimes <a +name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>I see the +butcher, bloody but confident; sometimes I see nothing, but sit +gasping on my second’s knee; sometimes I go in at the +butcher madly, and cut my knuckles open against his face, without +appearing to discompose him at all. At last I awake, very +queer about the head, as from a giddy sleep, and see the butcher +walking off, congratulated by the two other butchers and the +sweep and publican, and putting on his coat as he goes, from +which I augur justly that the victory is his.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But a few years afterwards David—ætat. +17—becomes a better match for his opponent; and we read in +the same chapter how—after his youthful disappointment +<i>in re</i> “the eldest Miss Larkins”—having +received new provocation from the butcher, he goes out to battle +a second time, and gloriously defeats him.</p> +<p>Turning again on the right into the main central thoroughfare, +we may find, on the south side, the <b>Fleur de Lys +Hotel</b>—34 High Street. A well-appointed and +respectable establishment, at which, in the time of +Copperfield’s school-days, Mr. Dick was in the habit of +stopping every alternate Wednesday, arriving from Dover by the +stage-coach on his special fortnightly visits to David. We +read that</p> +<blockquote><p>“These Wednesdays were the happiest days of +Mr. Dick’s life; they were far from being the least happy +of mine. He soon became known to every boy in the school, +and though he never took an active part in any game but +kite-flying, was as deeply interested in all our sports as any +one among us.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the opposite (north) side of the road stands the +old-fashioned <b>George and Dragon Inn</b>—No. 18 High +Street. In the days of Copperfield, the London and Dover +Coach, passing <i>en route</i> through Canterbury, stopped here +for change of horses. At this inn, therefore, was the +“<span class="smcap">Coach Office</span>,” referred +to in chapter 17 as being the place of arrival and departure of +Mr. Dick, as aforesaid. This London Coach is also mentioned +in the closing paragraph of the same chapter, David being on his +way to offer Micawber a soothing word of comfort in reply to a +dismal letter just received from that “Beggared +Outcast”—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +110</span>“Halfway there, I met the London coach with Mr. +and Mrs. Micawber up behind; Mr. Micawber, the very picture of +tranquil enjoyment, smiling at Mrs. Micawber’s +conversation, eating walnuts out of a paper bag, with a bottle +sticking out of his breast pocket. As they did not see me, +I thought it best, all things considered, not to see them. +So, with a great weight taken off my mind, I turned into a +by-street that was the nearest way to school, and felt, upon the +whole, relieved that they were gone, though I still liked them +very much, nevertheless.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Turning on the right (northward) from High Street, by a short +intermediate road, the Rambler approaches <span +class="smcap">Palace Street</span>, on the east side of which, +near the western end of the Cathedral, stands the <b>Church of +St. Alphege</b>. This edifice was casually referred to by +the “Old Soldier,” <i>Mrs. Markleham</i>, as the +church where the marriage of her daughter Annie with the worthy +Dr. Strong was solemnised. The reference occurs, by way of +interruption on the part of Mrs. M., during a very touching +conference between the doctor and his wife, as related in +“Copperfield,” chapter 45—“Mr. Dick +fulfils my aunt’s predictions.”</p> +<p>Passing onwards through <span class="smcap">St. Peter’s +Street</span> to <span class="smcap">Westgate Street</span>, +crossing the western branch of the river, we come by a turning on +the right to <span class="smcap">North Lane</span>, in which is +situated the former <b>Residence of Uriah Heep</b>. It is a +small two-storeyed house with plastered front, on the right side, +near the entrance of the lane—No. 65; the +“’umble dwelling” to which David was introduced +as described in chapter 17 of his history—</p> +<blockquote><p>“We entered a low, old-fashioned room, +walked straight into from the street, and found there Mrs. Heep, +who was the dead image of Uriah, only short. . . . It was a +perfectly decent room, half parlour and half kitchen, but not at +all a snug room. The tea things were set upon the table, +and the kettle was boiling on the hob. There was a chest of +drawers with an escritoire top, for Uriah to read or write at of +an evening; there was Uriah’s blue bag lying down and +vomiting papers; there was a company of Uriah’s books +commanded by Mr. Tidd; there was a corner cupboard, and there +were the usual articles of furniture. I don’t +remember that any individual object had a bare, pinched, spare +look, but I do remember that the whole place had.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +111</span>Returning to the main street, we pass the ancient <span +class="smcap">West Gate</span>—a fine specimen of medieval +architecture, built between two massive round towers, with +battlements and portcullis—and continue westward by <span +class="smcap">St. Dunstan Street</span>. At a short +distance onwards, on the south side of the thoroughfare, nearly +facing the approach to the <span +class="smcap">South-Eastern</span> Railway Station, there may be +observed—No. 71—an old picturesque timbered house, +with three projecting gables and antiquated windows. This +was the <b>Residence of Mr. Wickfield</b>, as described by David, +in chapter 15, when he was first taken to Canterbury by Miss +Betsy Trotwood—</p> +<blockquote><p>“At length we stopped before a very old +house, bulging out over the road; a house with long low lattice +windows bulging out still farther, and beams with carved heads on +the ends, bulging out too, so that I fancied the whole house was +leaning forward, trying to see who was passing on the narrow +pavement below. It was quite spotless in its +cleanliness. The old-fashioned brass knocker on the low +arched door, ornamented with carved garlands of fruit and +flowers, twinkled like a star; the two stone steps descending to +the door were as white as if they had been covered with fair +linen; and all the angles and corners and carvings and mouldings, +and quaint little panes of glass, and quainter little windows, +though as old as the hills, were as pure as any snow that ever +fell upon the hills.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This house does not answer in every respect to the full +description as contained in the book. The “little +round tower that formed one side of the +house”—containing Uriah Heep’s circular +office—being wanting to complete; but we may readily +imagine that this existed, some sixty years’ since, at the +western side, in the space now occupied by some gates and a roof +of more modern erection. This residence must certainly be +located in the <i>main London road</i>, as David—referring, +at the close of chapter 15, as above, to his recent pedestrian +journey from the Metropolis to Dover—speaks of his +“coming through that old city and passing that very house +he lived in, without knowing it.”</p> +<p>[Some friends resident at Canterbury have been disposed to +locate Mr. Wickfield’s house at No. 15 <span +class="smcap">Burgate Street</span>, now in occupation of the +legal firm of Messrs. <a name="page112"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 112</span>Fielding and Plummer (names, +by-the-bye, which are used by Dickens in “The Cricket on +the Hearth”); but neither the house nor its position will +in any way correspond with Copperfield’s description of the +same.]</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p112.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Home of Agnes" +title= +"The Home of Agnes" +src="images/p112.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Here then was the Home of <i>Agnes</i>—that finest +delineation of feminine portraiture ever conceived by our +author—the central figure of the many pure and beautiful +associations which entwine themselves with the chief interests of +this most charming tale. In view of the personal history +and character of its heroine, we may well understand +Thackeray’s eulogium of his contemporary, as providing for +the delectation of his daughters “the pure pages of David +Copperfield;” and we can as readily appreciate the +preference of Charles Dickens himself, when he says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Of all my books I like this the best. +It will be easily believed that I am a fond parent to every child +of my fancy, and that no one can ever love that family as dearly +as I love them. But, like many fond parents, I have, in my +heart of hearts, a favourite child, and his name is David +Copperfield.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Canterbury</span> by the direct +line of the <span class="smcap">London</span>, <span +class="smcap">Chatham And Dover Railway</span>, we are carried +onward through a pleasant country towards the south-east coast; +the white roads of the district indicating the abundant +chalkiness of the soil. In Copperfield’s 13th +chapter, narrating the circumstances of his long tramp to Dover, +he says, “From head to foot I was powdered almost as white +with chalk and dust as if I had come out of a +lime-kiln.”</p> +<p>Passing three minor stations, the train arrives at <span +class="smcap">Dover Priory</span>—about which more +anon—whence it proceeds through an intervening tunnel to +the town station, at the old port of</p> +<h3>DOVER.</h3> +<p>The town is of especial interest to readers of “David +Copperfield,” as containing on its suburban heights the +cottage residence of Miss Trotwood and Mr. Dick.</p> +<p>Proceeding eastward from the station, a short distance <a +name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>along <span +class="smcap">Commercial Quay</span>; turning left, then right; +and walking onwards <i>viâ</i> <span +class="smcap">Snargate</span>, <span class="smcap">Bench</span> +and <span class="smcap">King Streets</span>, the Rambler may +reach the <b>Market Place</b>, centrally situated in the lower +part of the town, and may recall the circumstance of poor David +resting near at hand, on his arrival—a juvenile stranger in +a strange land—after a morning’s fruitless inquiry as +to the whereabouts of his aunt. We read (in chapter 13) as +follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I inquired about my aunt among the boatmen +first, and received various answers. One said she lived in +the South Foreland light, and had singed her whiskers by doing +so; another, that she was made fast to the great buoy outside the +harbour, and could be only visited at half-tide; a third, that +she was locked up in Maidstone Jail for child stealing; a fourth, +that she was seen to mount a broom in the last high wind and make +direct for Calais. The fly-drivers among whom I inquired +were equally jocose and equally disrespectful; and the +shopkeepers, not liking my appearance, generally replied without +hearing what I had to say, that they had got nothing for +me. I felt more miserable and destitute than I had done at +any period of my running away. My money was all gone, I had +nothing left to dispose of; I was hungry, thirsty, and worn out, +and seemed as distant from my end as if I had remained in +London.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At the junction of <span class="smcap">Church Street</span> +and <span class="smcap">Castle Street</span>, both leading to and +from the Market Place—at the northeast angle—there +may be noted the <b>Street Corner</b> at which David sat down, +considering the position of affairs, and where he received the +first practical intimation for the proper direction of his +search:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The morning had worn away in these +inquiries, and I was sitting on the step of an empty shop at a +street corner, near the Market-place, deliberating upon wandering +towards those other places which had been mentioned, when a +fly-driver, coming by with his carriage, dropped a +horsecloth. Something good-natured in the man’s face, +as I handed it up, encouraged me to ask him if he could tell me +where Miss Trotwood lived. . . . ‘I tell you +what,’ said he. ‘If you go up there,’ +pointing with his whip towards the heights, ‘and keep right +on till you come to some houses facing the sea, I think +you’ll hear of her.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Leaving the Market Place from its north-west corner, and <a +name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>keeping +somewhat to the left, the Rambler may ascend by <span +class="smcap">Cannon</span> and <span class="smcap">Biggin +Streets</span>, as indicated by the coachman’s whip, to the +heights of <b>Priory Hill</b>, on which elevation, in the +neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">St. Martin’s +Priory</span> and the <span class="smcap">Priory Farm</span>, +there may be found several semi-detached residences pleasantly +overlooking the “silver streak” and the intervening +town below. Here, in an eligible position, there may be +seen <b>Stanley Mount</b>, a villa residence of two storeys, with +bow windows and contiguous lawn. This house now replaces an +older one, which aforetime was the cottage at which the worthy +Miss Trotwood lived; the miniature lawn in front being the +“patch of green” over which that amiable lady +asserted private right of way; persistently maintaining it +against all comers in general, and the Dover donkey boys in +particular—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The one great outrage of her life, +demanding to be constantly avenged, was the passage of a donkey +over that immaculate spot. In whatever occupation she was +engaged, however interesting to her the conversation in which she +was taking part, a donkey turned the current of her ideas in a +moment, and she was upon him straight. Jugs of water and +watering-pots were kept in secret places, ready to be discharged +on the offending boys, sticks were laid in ambush behind the +door, sallies were made at all hours, and incessant war +prevailed.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Midway between Railway Stations and Quay, there may be noted +<b>The King’s Head Hotel</b>, as being the old Coaching +House at which the London Mail terminated its journey, and +referred to in “The Tale of Two Cities” by the name +of “The Royal George.” Here may be recalled the +interview related in chapter 4, which took place at this hotel +between <i>Mr. Lorry</i> and <i>Miss Manette</i>, and at which +the reader is first introduced to the eccentric <i>Miss +Pross</i>—“dressed in some extraordinary +tight-fitting fashion”; wearing on “her head a most +wonderful bonnet, like a Grenadier measure (and a good measure +too) or a great Stilton cheese.”</p> +<p>Returning to London by South-Eastern Rail, the <a +name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>Rambler +will pass, about half-way on the road, the picturesque village of +<b>Staplehurst</b>. Near this station it may be remembered +that, on June 9th, 1865, a sad disaster occurred to the train in +which Mr. Dickens was a traveller. The <i>Postscript</i> to +“Our Mutual Friend” contains the following +reference:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mr. and Mrs. Boffin (in their manuscript +dress) were on the South-Eastern Railway with me, in a terribly +destructive accident. When I had done what I could to help +others, I climbed back into my carriage—nearly turned over +a viaduct, and caught aslant upon the turn—to extricate the +worthy couple. They were very much soiled, but otherwise +unhurt. . . . I remember with devout thankfulness that I +can never be much nearer parting company with my readers for ever +than I was then, until there shall be written against my life the +two words with which I have this day closed this book—The +End.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +116</span>RAMBLE VIII<br /> +<i>Excursion to Henley-on-Thames</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Route by Great Western Railway +<i>viâ</i> Maidenhead and Twyford to Henley—The Red +Lion Inn, place of accommodation for Mr. Eugene +Wrayburn—Marriage of Mr. Wrayburn and Lizzie +Hexam—The Anchor Inn, the “little inn” at which +Bella Wilfer first visited Lizzie Hexam—Henley Railway +Station—The Tow Path, scene of the interview between Lizzie +and Eugene—Marsh Mill, at which Lizzie was +employed—Neighbourhood where Betty Higden +died—Shiplake Churchyard, where Betty was +buried—“A cry for help”—West bank of +Thames, Henley Bridge and Poplar Point, the neighbourhood where +occurred Bradley Headstone’s attack on Eugene +Wrayburn—Lizzie’s walk by Marsh Lock to the Eastern +Tow Path beyond Henley Bridge—Her rescue of +Eugene—Henley <i>viâ</i> Aston and Medmenham to +Hurley Lock, “Plashwater Weir Mill” Lock, Rogue +Riderhood, Deputy Lockkeeper—Final scene of the +Tragedy—Churchyard of Stoke Pogis—Mr. +Micawber’s Quotation—The Homeward Journey—John +Harmon’s Reflections.</p> +<p>A very delightful country excursion may be made for visiting +the neighbourhood of <b>Henley-on-Thames</b>, of especial +interest to the readers of “Our Mutual Friend.”</p> +<p>It may be remembered that <i>Lizzie Hexam</i>, desirous of +avoiding the attentions of her (then) unworthy lover, <i>Mr. +Eugene Wrayburn</i>, left London secretly, with the assistance of +Riah—representative of the honourable firm of Messrs. +Pubsey and Co.; that, by his recommendation, she obtained a +situation at a <span class="smcap">Paper Mill</span> (then under +Jewish management), at some distance from the Metropolis, and +remained for a time undisturbed in her country employment; that, +thereafter, <i>Eugene Wrayburn</i> obtained her address by +bribing the drunken father of “<i>Jenny Wren</i>,” <a +name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>the +dolls’ dressmaker, and so followed Lizzie to her retreat, +being in his turn watched and followed by the passionate and +jealous schoolmaster, <i>Bradley Headstone</i>, who attempted his +life on the river bank; that, near at hand, was the <span +class="smcap">Angler’s Inn</span>, to which +Eugene—nearly dead—was carried by the heroic and +devoted Lizzie, who saved him from a watery grave, and where +“effect was given to the dolls’ dressmaker’s +discovery,” one night, some weeks later, by their romantic +marriage, while it was yet doubtful whether the bridegroom would +survive; that the death of <i>Betty Higden</i> occurred +“<span class="smcap">On the Borders of +Oxfordshire</span>,” near the mill at which <i>Lizzie +Hexam</i> was engaged, Lizzie herself attending the last moments +of the dying woman, and accepting her last request; that in +accordance with such request poor Betty was decently interred in +a contiguous churchyard, the charges being defrayed by her own +hard earnings, specially saved for the purpose; and that, on this +occasion, the first meeting of Lizzie and <i>Miss Bella +Wilfer</i> took place, when a very interesting and touching +interview ensued, which greatly assisted Bella in confirmation of +a brave and righteous decision <i>in re</i> money <i>versus</i> +love. Also that, at no great distance from this locality, +was situated “<span class="smcap">Plashwater Weir Mill +Lock</span>,” where <i>Rogue Riderhood</i> did duty as +deputy lock-keeper, and where, at the last, he and <i>Bradley +Headstone</i> were drowned.</p> +<p>These localities are in the neighbourhood of <span +class="smcap">Henley</span>, and may be readily verified by the +intelligent Rambler, adopting the excursion by land and water, as +subjoined.</p> +<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Paddington Terminus</span> of the +Great Western Railway, we pass <span class="smcap">Westbourne +Park Junction</span>, and the well-arranged grounds of <i>Kensal +Green Cemetery</i> (in which repose the mortal remains of Leigh +Hunt, Sidney Smith, John Leech, and Thackeray) on the right, +travelling westward by the suburban stations of <i>Acton</i>, +<i>Ealing</i>, and <i>Castle Hill</i>, and cross the Wharncliffe +Viaduct to <span class="smcap">Hanwell</span>.</p> +<p>To the left may be seen the handsome building of the <span +class="smcap">Middlesex Lunatic Asylum</span>. We next arrive at +<a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span><span +class="smcap">Southall</span>, and afterwards cross the Grand +Junction Canal to <span class="smcap">Hayes</span> and <span +class="smcap">West Drayton</span>. Our train now passes +from Middlesex to Buckinghamshire, and steams onwards in the +neighbourhood of <i>Langley Park</i>—seen on the +right. The tower of Langley Church may be observed on the +left, rising from the trees, as we speed forward to <span +class="smcap">Slough</span>, where we obtain a distant glimpse of +the Royal Castle of Windsor, two miles southward.</p> +<p>Resuming the journey we come, in four miles’ run, to the +pleasant village of <span class="smcap">Taplow</span>, on the +borders of the Thames (here dividing the counties of +Buckinghamshire and Berkshire), and within easy distance of +<i>Burnham Beeches</i>, a favourite picnic resort. The +train now crosses the river, next arriving at <span +class="smcap">Maidenhead</span>, a market town on the +Thames. On the right, observation may be taken of +Maidenhead Bridge, a noble erection of thirteen arches. +Thereafter we soon arrive at <span class="smcap">Twyford +Junction</span>, where we change (unless seated in a special +through carriage) for <b>Henley</b>, situated four miles +northward, and served by a branch line. The town itself is +very pleasantly situated on the Thames, with an old church and +handsome bridge, but is of special interest to Dickensian +students as containing the <span class="smcap">Inn</span> at +which <i>Mr. Eugene Wrayburn</i> found accommodation on the +occasion of his journey in pursuit of Lizzie Hexam. See +“Our Mutual Friend,” book 3, chapter 1, in which +Bradley Headstone, returning to Plashwater Weir, is described as +reporting the circumstance to the deputy lock-keeper—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘Lock ho! Lock.’ It +was a light night, and a barge coming down summoned him +(Riderhood) out of a long doze. In due course he had let +the barge through and was alone again, looking to the closing of +his gates, when Bradley Headstone appeared before him, standing +on the brink of the Lock. ‘Halloa,’ said +Riderhood. ‘Back a’ready, +T’otherest?’ ‘He has put up for the night +at an Angler’s Inn,’ was the fatigued and hoarse +reply. ‘He goes on, up the river, at six in the +morning. I have come back for a couple of hours’ +rest.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Red Lion Inn</b> thus referred to is situated north of +Henley Bridge, on the west bank of the river, and is a <a +name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>favourite +resort for disciples of Izaak Walton and boating men in +general. Here it was that Eugene Wrayburn—after the +murderous attack by the schoolmaster—was brought almost +lifeless by Lizzie, when rescued by her from the river, as +narrated in chapter 6—</p> +<blockquote><p>“She ran the boat ashore, went into the +water, released him from the line, and by main strength lifted +him in her arms and laid him in the bottom of the boat. He +had fearful wounds upon him, and she bound them up with her dress +torn into strips. Else, supposing him to be still alive, +she foresaw that he must bleed to death before he could be landed +at his inn, which was the nearest place for succour. . . . +She rowed hard—rowed desperately, but never +wildly—and seldom removed her eyes from him in the bottom +of the boat. She had so laid him there as that she might +see his disfigured face; it was so much disfigured that his +mother might have covered it, but it was above and beyond +disfigurement in her eyes. The boat touched the edge of inn +lawn, sloping gently to the water. There were lights in the +windows, but there chanced to be no one out of doors. She +made the boat fast, and again by main strength took him up, and +never laid him down until she laid him down in the +house.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The landing-place and patch of inn lawn, above indicated, may +now be verified as belonging to the “<span +class="smcap">Red Lion</span>” at Henley aforesaid. +The lawn is a favourite standpoint for spectators interested in +the <span class="smcap">Henley Royal Regatta</span>, which takes +place every year usually about the beginning of July.</p> +<p><b>The marriage of Eugene and Lizzie</b> took place at this +same inn some weeks later, while it was yet uncertain that Eugene +would recover; the <i>Rev. Frank Milvey</i> officiating at the +bedside, <i>Bella</i> and her husband, <i>Mr. Lightwood</i>, +<i>Mrs. Milvey</i>, and <i>Jenny Wren</i> being duly in +attendance—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They all stood round the bed, and Mr. +Milvey, opening his book, began the service, so rarely associated +with the shadow of death; so inseparable in the mind from a flush +of life and gaiety and health and hope and joy. Bella +thought how different from her own sunny little wedding, and +wept. Mrs. Milvey overflowed with pity, and wept too. +The dolls’ dressmaker, with her hands before her face, wept +in her golden bower. Reading in a low, clear voice, and +bending over Eugene, who kept his eyes upon him, Mr. Milvey did +his office with suitable simplicity. As the bridegroom +could not move his hand, they touched his fingers with the ring, +and so put it on the bride. When <a +name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>the two +plighted their troth, she laid her hand on his, and kept it +there. When the ceremony was done, and all the rest +departed from the room, she drew her arm under his head, and laid +her own head down on the pillow by his side. ‘Undraw +the curtains, my dear girl,’ said Eugene, after a while, +‘and let us see our wedding-day.’ The sun was +rising, and his first rays struck into the room, as she came back +and put her lips to his. ‘I bless the day!’ +said Eugene. ‘I bless the day!’ said +Lizzie.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>[The clergyman and friends who assisted on this interesting +occasion as above, left London from <b>Waterloo +Station</b>. We may remember that Mrs. Rokesmith, escorted +by Mr. Lightwood, came into town by rail from Greenwich. +Thus they would change trains at <span class="smcap">Waterloo +Junction</span>, and adopt the <i>South-Western Route</i> as +being the more convenient, travelling to Reading, and driving +thence to Henley. It was at this terminus that Bradley +Headstone first heard (from Mr. Milvey) of the intended wedding, +and was so seriously upset by the news, that an attack of +epilepsy ensued in consequence. We thus read in chapter 11, +book 4, with reference to Bella and her escort:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“From Greenwich they started directly for +London, and in London they waited at a railway station until such +time as the Rev. Frank Milvey, and Margaretta, his wife, with +whom Mortimer Lightwood had been already in conference, should +come and join them. . . . Then the train rattled among the +house-tops, and among the ragged sides of houses, torn down to +make way for it, over the swarming streets, and under the +fruitful earth, until it shot across the river. . . . A +carriage ride succeeded near the solemn river. . . . They +drew near the chamber where Eugene lay.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This is certainly descriptive of the <span +class="smcap">South-Western Railway</span>, and is <i>not</i> +applicable to the Great Western Route.]</p> +<p>For full particulars the reader is referred to chapter 11, +book 4. On the occasion of Bella Wilfer’s <span +class="smcap">First Visit</span> to Henley, and the introduction +of the two girls to each other, as narrated in chapter 9, book 3 +(in association with the burial of old Betty Higden), mention is +made of “<i>the little inn</i>,” at which +Bella’s friends were then accommodated. This was +<i>not</i> the “Red Lion,” but, in all probability, +was <a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +121</span><b>The Anchor Inn</b>, a small, but very comfortable +hostelry in <i>Friday Street</i>, near the river. Visitors +desiring to combine economy with homeliness, are recommended to +follow Miss Wilfer’s lead in this regard, and commit +themselves to the hospitable care of the present landlord.</p> +<p><b>The Railway Station</b> at Henley is referred to in the +last-named chapter as being near at hand, when “the Rev. +Frank and Mrs. Frank, and Sloppy, and Bella and the Secretary set +out to walk to it;” the two last dropping behind, for a +little confidential conversation on the road. We read +that</p> +<blockquote><p>“The railway, at this point knowingly +shutting a green eye and opening a red one, they had to run for +it. As Bella could not run easily so wrapped up, the +Secretary had to help her. When she took her opposite place +in the carriage corner, the brightness in her face was so +charming to behold, that on her exclaiming, ‘What beautiful +stars and what a glorious night!’ the Secretary said, +‘Yes,’ but seemed to prefer to see the night and the +stars in the light of her lovely little countenance, to looking +out of window.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>A short walk of five minutes from the station, southward by +the riverside (west bank), will bring the Rambler to <b>The Tow +Path</b>, the scene of that memorable interview between Lizzie +and Eugene, recorded in chapter 6, book 4, as taking place +previous to the catastrophe by which Wrayburn nearly lost his +life. The path leads to <b>Marsh Mill</b>, about half a +mile from Henley; a large and important paper mill, now in the +occupation of Mr. Wells, situated near the weir, with its long +wooden bridge leading to the lock. This was the mill at +which Lizzie Hexam, secretly leaving London, found refuge and +occupation, on the recommendation of her old friend Mr. Riah, her +worthy employers being a firm of Hebrew nationality. We +first read of this mill in connection with the closing scenes of +<i>Betty Higden’s</i> history, as narrated in chapter 8, +book 3, and headed “The end of a long +journey”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“There now arose in the darkness a great +building full of lighted windows. Smoke was issuing from a +high chimney in the rear of it, and there was the sound of a +water-wheel at the side. Between her <a +name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>and the +building lay a piece of water, in which the lighted windows were +reflected, and on its nearest margin was a plantation of +trees. ‘I humbly thank the Power and the +Glory,’ said Betty Higden, holding up her withered hands, +‘that I have come to my journey’s +end!’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Death of Betty</b> here occurred; as, sinking on the +ground, and supporting herself against a tree “whence she +could see, beyond some intervening trees and branches, the +lighted windows,” her strength gave way—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘I am safe here,’ was her last +benumbed thought. ‘When I am found dead at the foot +of the Cross, it will be by some of my own sort; some of the +working people who work among the lights yonder. I cannot +see the lighted windows now, but they are there. I am +thankful for all!’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We have the satisfaction of reading that the poor +woman’s hopes were realised, for <i>Lizzie Hexam</i> +returning from the mill, found her lying among the trees as +described, and tended her at the last, with helpful and loving +hands—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A look of thankfulness and triumph lights +the worn old face. The eyes, which have been darkly fixed +upon the sky, turn with meaning in them towards the compassionate +face from which the tears are dropping, and a smile is on the +aged lips as they ask, ‘What is your name, my +dear?’ ‘My name is Lizzie Hexam.’ +‘I must be sore disfigured. Are you afraid to kiss +me?’ The answer is, the ready pressure of her lips +upon the cold but smiling mouth. ‘Bless ye! Now +lift me, my love.’ Lizzie Hexam very softly raised +the weather-stained grey head, and lifted her as high as +Heaven.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Burial</b>, as detailed in the following chapter, must +have taken place in the little churchyard of the contiguous +village of <span class="smcap">Shiplake</span> (about +three-quarters of a mile distant), the service being conducted by +the Rev. Frank Milvey, and attended by the Secretary and poor +<i>Sloppy</i> as mourners.</p> +<p>“<b>A cry for help</b>.” It may be +interesting to indicate the local sequence of events on that +memorable Saturday evening, when Bradley Headstone, impelled by +wild resentment and furious jealousy, did his best to murder his +more favoured rival, as described in chapter 6, book 4, under the +above heading. It will be remembered that, on the evening +in question, <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +123</span><b>Eugene Wrayburn</b> having forced an appointment +with Lizzie Hexam, met her on the path by the river, when a very +affecting farewell interview ensued. This interview +occurring on the towpath—tolerably secluded at and after +twilight—about halfway between Henley and Marsh (see +<i>Marcus Stone’s</i> Illustration, “The Parting by +the River”), Eugene strolled slowly towards his inn, while +Lizzie walked sorrowfully, as a matter of course, in the opposite +direction. We read that, passing Bradley Headstone +(disguised as a bargeman)—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Eugene Wrayburn went the opposite way, with +his hands behind him, and his purpose in his thoughts. He +passed the sheep, and passed the gate, and came within hearing of +the village sounds, and came to the bridge. The inn where +he stayed, like the village and the mill, was not across the +river, but on that side of the stream on which he walked . . . +feeling out of humour for noise or company, he crossed the +bridge, and sauntered on: looking up at the stars as they seemed +one by one to be kindled in the sky, and looking down at the +river as the same stars seemed to be kindled deep in the +water. A landing-place overshadowed by a willow, and a +pleasant boat lying moored there among some stakes, caught his +eye as he passed along.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Thus it will be seen how Eugene, following the <i>west +bank</i> of the Thames to Henley, and thereafter crossing +<b>Henley Bridge</b>, pursued the course of his meditations past +the landing-place on the opposite side, walking onwards by the +towpath thence continued, in the direction of <span +class="smcap">Poplar Point</span>.</p> +<p><b>The Murderous Attack</b> upon him by Headstone, in the +darkening shades of nightfall, must have here occurred, not far +from the bridge, and opposite to the town, Wrayburn being thrown +into the river by his assailant, and so left for dead.</p> +<p><b>Lizzie Hexam</b>, endeavouring to regain composure, went +towards Marsh, and must have crossed by <b>The Lock Gates</b> to +the main road beyond, turning in the direction of Henley. +She thereafter walked slowly onwards in the neighbourhood of the +bridge at its eastern side, and thus unconsciously came again +near to, and following behind, her lover, on the</p> +<p><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +124</span><b>Eastern Tow Path</b> beyond the bridge, as above +mentioned. Hereabouts, hearing “the sound of blows, a +faint groan, and a fall into the river,” she ran towards +the spot from which the sounds had come—not far distant, on +the riverside path, northward from the bridge. We are all +familiar with the story of Lizzie’s heroic rescue of Eugene +from the river. Finding a boat on the north side of <span +class="smcap">Henley Bridge</span>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“She passed the scene of the +struggle—yonder it was—on her left, well over the +boat’s stern—she passed on her right the end of the +village street (New Street) . . . looking as the boat drove, +everywhere, everywhere for the floating face.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Finding and recovering the body, she rowed “back against +the stream,” landing at the lawn of the <span +class="smcap">Red Lion Inn</span> as previously described.</p> +<p>The Rambler may now take a short trip by boat down the river +six miles from Henley, for visiting <span class="smcap">The +Lock</span> where <i>Rogue Riderhood</i> acted for a time, as +deputy superintendent.</p> +<p>Leaving <span class="smcap">Henley</span>, we may note, on the +left, the mansion of <i>Fawley Court</i>, beyond which, passing +<span class="smcap">Regatta Island</span>, we arrive at <span +class="smcap">Greenlands</span>, in the occupation of the Right +Hon. W. H. Smith (not unknown in political and literary +circles). The house is pleasantly situated at the bend of +the river. We next arrive at <i>Hambledon Lock</i>, two +miles from Henley; thereafter reaching <span +class="smcap">Aston</span>, as we proceed down the stream to +<span class="smcap">Medmenham</span>, with its picturesque Abbey, +founded in the reign of King John, standing on the north +bank. Below Medmenham is <b>Hurley Lock</b>, which is our +present destination. It is contiguous to <span +class="smcap">New Lock Weir</span>, and to the village of <span +class="smcap">Hurley</span>, situated on the right bank of the +river. This is known to readers of “Our Mutual +Friend” as <b>Plashwater Weir Mill Lock</b>, at whose gates +<i>Riderhood</i>—whilom a “waterside +character,” the partner of <i>Gaffer +Hexam</i>—officiated as deputy lock-keeper. We are +introduced to him as not very wide-awake in this capacity, in +chapter 1, book 4—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +125</span>“<span class="smcap">Plashwater Weir Mill +Lock</span> looked tranquil and pretty on an evening in the +summer-time. A soft air stirred the leaves of the fresh +green trees, and passed like a smooth shadow over the river, and +like a smoother shadow over the yielding grass. The voice +of the falling water, like the voices of the sea and the wind, +was an outer memory to a contemplative listener; but not +particularly so to Mr. Riderhood, who sat on one of the blunt +wooden levers of his lock-gates, dozing.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>To this locality came Bradley Headstone, who, for sinister +reasons of his own, cultivated Riderhood’s acquaintance, +making <b>The Lock House</b> a convenient place of call, as he +pursued Eugene Wrayburn in his quest, full details of which may +be found in chapters 1 and 7, book 6. Here also was enacted +the final scene of the tragedy, as narrated in chapter 15, book +4, when Bradley Headstone drowned himself and Riderhood in the +Lock—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Bradley had caught him round the +body. He seemed to be girdled with an iron ring. They +were on the brink of the Lock, about midway between the two sets +of gates. . . . ‘Let go!’ said Riderhood. +‘Stop! What are you trying at? You can’t +drown me. Ain’t I told you that the man as has come +through drowning can never be drowned? I can’t be +drowned.’ ‘I can be!’ returned Bradley, +in a desperate, clenched voice. ‘I am resolved to +be. I’ll hold you living, and I’ll hold you +dead. Come down!’ Riderhood went over into the +smooth pit, backward, and Bradley Headstone upon him. When +the two were found, lying under the ooze and scum behind one of +the rotting gates, Riderhood’s hold had relaxed, probably +in falling, and his eyes were staring upward. But he was +girdled still with Bradley’s iron ring, and the rivets of +the iron ring held tight.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>By road, <span class="smcap">Hurley Lock</span> is but four +miles distant from Henley; a pedestrian, therefore, could make an +easy short cut, as against a rower up the stream; hence the +assurance given by the deputy lock-keeper to his impatient +visitor (see book 4, chapter 1):—</p> +<blockquote><p>“‘Ha, ha! Don’t be afeerd, +T’otherest,’ said Riderhood. ‘The +T’other’s got to make way agin the stream, and he +takes it easy. You can soon come up with him. But +wot’s the good of saying that to you! You know how +fur you could have outwalked him betwixt <a +name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>anywheres +about where he lost the tide—say Richmond—and this, +if you had had a mind to it.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Travelling homeward on the return to London, it may be +desirable to break the journey at <span +class="smcap">Slough</span>—eighteen miles from +Paddington—whence may be conveniently visited the rustic +village and cemetery of <b>Stoke Pogis</b>, about a mile and a +half northward from the station. The latter contains the +tomb of the poet Gray, and is the scene of his famous +“Elegy in a Country Churchyard.” It may be +remembered that from this well-known poem <b>Mr. Micawber’s +Quotation</b> was taken, as an appropriate conclusion to one of +his many friendly but grandiloquent epistles, confirming an +important appointment. In “David Copperfield,” +at the end of chapter 49, we read of Micawber’s expressed +determination to unmask his “foxey” employer, and to +crush “to undiscoverable atoms that transcendent and +immortal hypocrite and perjurer, Heep”; and we may recall +his “most secret and confidential letter,” soon +afterwards received by David, as containing the following +reference:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The duty done, and act of reparation +performed, which can alone enable me to contemplate my fellow +mortal, I shall be known no more. I shall simply require to +be deposited in that place of universal resort, where</p> +<p> ‘Each in his narrow cell for ever +laid,<br /> + The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right">With the plain Inscription,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Wilkins Micawber</span>.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>So, as the evening shades prevail, “near and nearer +drawn” through “the glimmering landscape,” we +again approach the lights of London Town, with (it may be hoped) +pleasant reminiscences of the foregoing excursions. Should +the Rambler, like Mr. John Harmon on a similar occasion, be +accompanied by a friend, who perchance may be “nearer and +dearer than all other,” he may appropriately endorse <a +name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span><b>John +Harmon’s reflections</b> as he made the same journey under +blissful circumstances (see “Our Mutual Friend,” book +3, end of chapter 9)—</p> +<blockquote><p>“O, boofer lady, fascinating boofer +lady! If I were but legally executor of Johnny’s +will. If I had but the right to pay your legacy and take +your receipt! Something to this purpose surely mingled with +the blast of the train as it cleared the stations, all knowingly +shutting up their green eyes and opening their red ones when they +prepared to let the boofer lady pass.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +128</span>RAMBLE IX<br /> +<i>By Great Eastern Route from London to Yarmouth</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Liverpool Street Station—Epping +Forest—Buckhurst Hill—Chigwell Village—Chigwell +Churchyard; Resting-Place of Barnaby Rudge and his +Mother—“Grip” the Raven—The +“King’s Head Inn”—“The +Maypole”—Mr. Cattermole’s +Frontispiece—The Bar—The Landlord, John +Willett—Dolly Varden—The Visit of the Varden +Family—The Warren; Residence of Mr. Haredale and his +Niece—By Main Line to Ipswich—The Great White Horse +Hotel in Tavern Street—The Apartment of the Middle-Aged +Lady—Mr. Pickwick’s Misadventure—St. +Clement’s Church—Job Trotter—The Green Gate, +Residence of G. Nupkins, Esq.—Mary the Pretty +Housemaid—Sam Weller’s First Love—Ipswich to +Great Yarmouth—Mr. Peggotty’s Boat-house—Home +of Little Emily—The Two London Coaches—The +“Angel Hotel”—David’s Dinner in the +Coffee-Room—The Friendly Waiter—The “Star +Hotel”—Headquarters of Copperfield and +Steerforth—Miss Mowcher’s First +Introduction—Unlocalised +Sites—Blundeston—Blunderstone Rookery—Early +Childhood of Copperfield—Somerleyton Park.</p> +<p>A pleasant drive from London to Chigwell is described in +chapter 19 of “Barnaby Rudge,” and may be still taken +about twelve miles by road, starting from Whitechapel Church +<i>viâ</i> Mile-End and Bow, thence crossing the River Lea, +and proceeding, in the county of Essex, by way of +<i>Stratford</i>, <i>Leytonstone</i>, <i>Snaresbrook</i>, and +<i>Wilcox Green</i>. But time will be saved by adopting a +convenient train, leaving Liverpool Street Station (Great Eastern +Railway) for <i>Buckhurst Hill</i>—on the Ongar Branch +Line—in the neighbourhood of Epping Forest, a district +formerly preserved by the old monarchs of Merrie England for the +enjoyment of field sports and the pleasures of the chase.</p> +<p>From this point a country walk (under two miles), turning <a +name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>eastward, +and to the left after crossing the long intervening bridge, will +lead in due course to the main road at Chigwell. Coming +into the village we pass, at the corner on the right, <b>Chigwell +Church</b>, surrounded by its quiet churchyard. This +locality will be remembered as having afforded a resting-place to +Barnaby and his mother after their visit to Mr. Haredale at +<i>The Warren</i> (chapter 25). “In the churchyard +they sat down to take their frugal dinner”—Grip, the +raven, being one of the party—“walking up and down +when he had dined with an air of elderly complacency, which was +strongly suggestive of his having his hands under his coat tails, +and appearing to read the tombstones with a very critical +taste.” On the other side of the main road, a very +little way onward (left), stands the old <b>King’s Head +Inn</b>, the original “local habitation,” if not +“the name,” of the ancient hostelry so intimately +associated with the central and domestic interests of the +aforesaid historical novel, and known to us therein as <b>The +Maypole</b>, “an old building with more gable ends than a +lazy man would care to count on a sunny day; its windows, old +diamond pane lattices; its floors sunken and uneven; its ceilings +blackened by the hand of time, and heavy with massive beams; with +its overhanging storeys, drowsy little panes of glass, and front +bulging out and projecting over the pathway.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p129.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “King’s Head,” Chigwell" +title= +"The “King’s Head,” Chigwell" +src="images/p129.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>This description is appropriate to the house as it stands at +present, a fine old specimen of the timbered architecture of +bygone centuries; but it may be remarked that <span +class="smcap">The Illustration</span> drawn by Cattermole, which +forms the frontispiece in the recent editions of “Barnaby +Rudge,” is altogether beside the mark; for the designer has +furnished therein, an elaborate and ornate picture of the old inn +which does not correspond with fact, but rather remains in +evidence of the beauty and exuberance of his artistic +imagination. Here, then, we may recall the visit of Mr. and +Mrs. Varden, accompanied by their daughter, the charming Dolly, +“the very pink and pattern of good looks, <a +name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>in a smart +little cherry-coloured mantle, with a hood of the same drawn over +her head, and, upon the top of that hood, a little straw hat, +trimmed with cherry-coloured ribbons, and worn the merest trifle +on one side—just enough, in short, to make it the wickedest +and most provoking head-dress that ever malicious milliner +devised.”</p> +<p>In the same connection <b>The</b> “<b>Bar</b>” +<b>of the old</b> “<b>Maypole</b>,” the preparation +for dinner, and the kitchen are thus described:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“All bars are snug places, but the +Maypole’s was the very snuggest, cosiest, and completest +bar that ever the wit of man devised. Such amazing bottles +in old oaken pigeon-holes; such gleaming tankards dangling from +pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would hold them +to their lips; such sturdy little Dutch kegs ranged in rows on +shelves; so many lemons hanging in separate nets, and forming the +fragrant grove already mentioned in this chronicle, suggestive, +with goodly loaves of snowy sugar stowed away hard by, of punch, +idealised beyond all mortal knowledge; such closets, such +presses, such drawers full of pipes, such places for putting +things away in hollow window seats, all crammed to the throat +with eatables, drinkables, or savoury condiments; lastly, and to +crown all, as typical of the immense resources of the +establishment, and its defiances to all visitors to cut and come +again, such a stupendous cheese!</p> +<p>“It is a poor heart that never rejoices—it must +have been the poorest, weakest, and most watery heart that ever +beat which would not have warmed towards the Maypole bar. +Mrs. Varden’s did directly. She could no more have +reproached John Willet among those household gods, the kegs and +bottles, lemons, pipes, and cheese, than she could have stabbed +him with his own bright carving-knife. The order for dinner +too—it might have soothed a savage. ‘A bit of +fish,’ said John to the cook, ‘and some lamb chops +(breaded, with plenty of ketchup), and a good salad, and a roast +spring chicken, with a dish of sausages and mashed potatoes, or +something of that sort.’ Something of that +sort! The resources of these inns! To talk carelessly +about dishes which in themselves were a first-rate holiday kind +of dinner, suitable to one’s wedding-day, as something of +that sort, meaning, if you can’t get a spring chicken, any +other trifle in the way of poultry will do—such as a +peacock, perhaps! The kitchen, too, with its great broad +cavernous chimney; the kitchen, where nothing in the way of +cookery seemed impossible; where you could believe in anything to +eat they chose to tell you of. Mrs. Varden returned from +the contemplation of these wonders to the bar again, with a head +quite dizzy and bewildered. Her housekeeping capacity was +not large enough to comprehend <a name="page131"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 131</span>them. She was obliged to go to +sleep. Waking was pain, in the midst of such +immensity.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Warren</b>, residence of Mr. Haredale and his niece, an +old red-brick house, standing in its own grounds, was situated +about a mile eastward from the Maypole, and was thence accessible +by a path across the fields, from the garden exit of the inn, to +its position on the border of Hainault Forest. (See final +paragraph of chapter 19, “Barnaby Rudge.”) From +many suggestions in the book, it occupied, in all probability, +the site of <i>Forest House</i>, not a great distance from +Chigwell Row; but of this no certainty exists.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Chigwell to Ipswich</span>. It will +be best to return from <i>Buckhurst Hill</i> by rail to Stratford +or Liverpool Street, in order to travel by fast main line train, +to the good old town of Ipswich, our next destination. The +journey—<i>viâ</i> Chelmsford and +Colchester—will occupy about two hours, during which we may +recall the memorable occasion of Mr. Pickwick’s excursion +per coach from the “Bull Inn,” Whitechapel, to this +ancient capital of Suffolk, attended by the faithful Sam, Mr. +Weller, senior, driving, and beguiling the tediousness of the way +with conversation of considerable +interest—“possessing the inestimable charm of +blending amusement with instruction.” Full details +will be found on reference to the “Pickwick Papers,” +chapter 22, together with the account of Mr. P.’s +introduction to his fellow-traveller, Mr. Peter Magnus, “a +red-haired man, with an inquisitive nose and blue +spectacles.” On arrival at the station at +<b>Ipswich</b>, the wayfarer, crossing by bridge over the +<i>Gipping</i> river, may proceed straight onwards through +<i>Princes Street</i> (five minutes) to <i>Tavern +Street</i>. Turning to the right, along this thoroughfare, +he will soon see the <b>Great White Horse Hotel</b>, on the left +side of Tavern Street. Tramcars from the station pass the +hotel; also omnibus meets all trains. Telegraphic +address—Pickwick, Ipswich. In the chapter before +referred to is contained the following description:—</p> +<blockquote><p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +132</span>“In the main street of Ipswich, on the left-hand +side of the way, a short distance after you have passed through +the open space fronting the Town Hall, stands an inn, known far +and wide by the appellation of the Great White Horse, rendered +the more conspicuous by a stone statue of some rapacious animal +with flowing mane and tail, distinctly resembling an insane +cart-horse, which is elevated above the principal door. The +Great White Horse is famous in the neighbourhood in the same +degree as a prize ox, or county paper-chronicled turnip, or +unwieldy pig—for its enormous size. Never were such +labyrinths of uncarpeted passages, such clusters of mouldy, +ill-lighted rooms, such huge numbers of small dens for eating or +sleeping in beneath one roof, as are collected together within +the four walls of the Great White Horse at Ipswich.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p132.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “Great White Horse,” Ipswich" +title= +"The “Great White Horse,” Ipswich" +src="images/p132.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The Dickensian Rambler will well remember this hotel as the +scene of <b>Mr. Pickwick’s</b> “<b>romantic</b> +<b>adventure</b> with a middle-aged lady in yellow +curl-papers,” related <i>in extenso</i> in the same chapter +as above. Information as to the exact bedroom allotted to +Mr. Pickwick on the occasion of his visit to this place is, +unfortunately, not afforded by local tradition; but the apartment +occupied by “Miss Witherfield,” whose privacy Mr. P. +inadvertently, but so unhappily, invaded, is indicated to +visitors on the second floor—No. 36, according to recent +rearrangement of enumeration, formerly known as No. 6.</p> +<p>Poor Mr. Pickwick, on his escape from his awkward predicament, +was unable to find his own room, but was at last rescued from his +dilemma by his faithful servitor—</p> +<blockquote><p>“After groping his way a few paces down the +passage, and, to his infinite alarm, stumbling over several pairs +of boots in so doing, Mr. Pickwick crouched into a little recess +in the wall, to wait for morning as philosophically as he +might.</p> +<p>“He was not destined, however, to undergo this +additional trial of patience; for he had not been long ensconced +in his present concealment when, to his unspeakable horror, a +man, bearing a light, appeared at the end of the passage. +His horror was suddenly converted into joy, however, when he +recognised the form of his faithful attendant. It was +indeed Mr. Samuel Weller, who after sitting up thus late, in +conversation with the Boots, who was sitting up for the mail, was +now about to retire to rest.</p> +<p>“‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, suddenly +appearing before him, ‘where’s my bedroom?’</p> +<p><a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +133</span>“Mr. Weller stared at his master with the most +emphatic surprise; and it was not until the question had been +repeated three several times, that he turned round, and led the +way to the long-sought apartment.</p> +<p>“‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, as he got into +bed. ‘I have made one of the most extraordinary +mistakes to-night that were ever heard of.’</p> +<p>“‘Wery likely, sir,’ said Mr. Weller +drily.</p> +<p>“‘But of this I am determined, Sam,’ said +Mr. Pickwick, ‘that if I were to stop in this house for six +months, I would never trust myself about it alone +again.’</p> +<p>“‘That’s the wery prudentest resolution as +you could come to, sir,’ replied Mr. Weller. +‘You rayther want somebody to look arter you, sir, wen your +judgment goes out a wisitin’.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>By way of <i>Upper Brook Street</i>, <i>Tacket Street</i>, and +<i>Orwell Place</i>, we come to <i>Fore Street</i>, <i>St. +Clement’s</i> (a thoroughfare in which still remain several +old houses of the sixteenth century), and soon reach the +whereabouts of <b>St. Clement’s Church</b>, towards which, +on the morning following the disasters of the night of their +arrival, Mr. Samuel Weller bent his steps, and</p> +<blockquote><p>“endeavoured to dissipate his melancholy by +strolling among its ancient precincts. He had loitered +about for some time, when he found himself in a retired +spot—a kind of courtyard of venerable +appearance—which he discovered had no other outlet than the +turning by which he had entered. He was about retracing his +steps, when he was suddenly transfixed to the spot by a sudden +appearance; and the mode and manner of this appearance we now +proceed to relate.</p> +<p>“Mr. Samuel Weller had been staring up at the old brick +houses now and then, in his deep abstraction, bestowing a wink +upon some healthy-looking servant girl as she drew up a blind, or +threw open a bedroom window, when the green gate at the bottom of +the yard opened, and a man having emerged therefrom, closed the +green gate very carefully after him, and walked briskly towards +the very spot where Mr. Weller was standing.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This personage proved to be none other than <b>Mr. Job +Trotter</b>, whose black hair and mulberry suit were at once +recognised by Sam, though their owner did his best to evade +detection:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“As the green gate was closed behind him, +and there was no other outlet but the one in front, however, he +was not long in perceiving that he must pass Mr. Samuel Weller to +get away. He therefore resumed his brisk pace, and +advanced, staring straight before him. <a +name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>The most +extraordinary thing about the man was, that he was contorting his +face into the most fearful and astonishing grimaces that ever +were beheld. Nature’s handiwork never was disguised +with such extraordinary artificial carving, as the man had +overlaid his countenance with in one moment.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Green Gate</b> thus alluded to may yet be seen in a +passage or court at the bottom of <i>Angel Lane</i> (leading to +Back Street). It is the last garden gate in the churchyard, +a short distance from Church Street. The same courtyard and +gate will be remembered as the official entrance to the +<b>Residence of George Nupkins</b>, <b>Esq.</b>, the Worshipful +Mayor of Ipswich, before whom the Pickwickian party were +arraigned, in charge of the redoubtable chief constable of the +town. We read in chapter 25 as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mr. Weller’s anger quickly gave way +to curiosity when the procession turned down the identical +courtyard in which he had met with the runaway Job Trotter; and +curiosity was exchanged for a feeling of the most gleeful +astonishment, when the all-important Mr. Grummer, commanding the +sedan-bearers to halt, advanced with dignified and portentous +steps to the very green gate from which Job Trotter had emerged, +and gave a mighty pull at the bell-handle which hung at the side +thereof. The ring was answered by a very smart and +pretty-faced servant-girl, who, after holding up her hands in +astonishment at the rebellious appearance of the prisoners, and +the impassioned language of Mr. Pickwick, summoned Mr. +Muzzle. Mr. Muzzle opened one-half of the carriage gate to +admit the sedan, the captured ones, and the specials, and +immediately slammed it in the faces of the mob. . . .</p> +<p>“At the foot of a flight of steps, leading to the house +door, which was guarded on either side by an American aloe in a +green tub, the sedan-chair stopped. Mr. Pickwick and his +friends were conducted into the hall, whence, having been +previously announced by Muzzle, and ordered in by Mr. Nupkins, +they were ushered into the worshipful presence of that +public-spirited officer.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And we all recollect the resulting <i>exposé</i> of the +designs of Mr. Alfred Jingle (<i>alias</i> Captain Fitzmarshall), +and the return by Mr. Weller of “Job Trotter’s +shuttlecock as heavily as it came.”</p> +<p>It should also be not forgotten that it was at this house Mr. +Weller met with his lady-elect, <b>Mary</b>, <b>the Pretty +Housemaid</b> (afterwards maid to Mrs. <a +name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>Winkle), +and that here the first passage of first love occurred between +them. For the pleasant narration of the episode, reference +should be made to the conclusion of the foregoing +chapter:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Now, there was nobody in the kitchen but +the pretty housemaid; and as Sam’s hat was mislaid, he had +to look for it, and the pretty housemaid lighted him. They +had to look all over the place for the hat. The pretty +housemaid, in her anxiety to find it, went down on her knees, and +turned over all the things that were heaped together in a little +corner by the door. It was an awkward corner. You +couldn’t get at it without shutting the door first.</p> +<p>“‘Here it is,’ said the pretty +housemaid. ‘This is it, ain’t it?’</p> +<p>“‘Let me look,’ said Sam.</p> +<p>“The pretty housemaid had stood the candle on the floor; +as it gave a very dim light, Sam was obliged to go down on his +knees before he could see whether it really was his own hat or +not. It was a remarkably small corner, and so—it was +nobody’s fault but the man’s who built the +house—Sam and the pretty housemaid were necessarily very +close together.</p> +<p>“‘Yes, this is it,’ said Sam. +‘Good-bye!’</p> +<p>“‘Good-bye!’ said the pretty housemaid.</p> +<p>“‘Good-bye!’ said Sam; and as he said it, he +dropped the hat that had cost so much trouble in looking for.</p> +<p>“‘How awkward you are,’ said the pretty +housemaid. ‘You’ll lose it again, if you +don’t take care.’</p> +<p>“So, just to prevent his losing it again, she put it on +for him.</p> +<p>“Whether it was that the pretty housemaid’s face +looked prettier still, when it was raised towards Sam’s, or +whether it was the accidental consequence of their being so near +to each other, is matter of uncertainty to this day; but Sam +kissed her.</p> +<p>“‘You don’t mean to say that you did that on +purpose,’ said the pretty housemaid, blushing.</p> +<p>“‘No, I didn’t then,’ said Sam; +‘but I will now.’</p> +<p>“So he kissed her again.</p> +<p>“‘Sam!’ said Mr. Pickwick, calling over the +banisters.</p> +<p>“‘Coming, sir,’ replied Sam, running +upstairs.</p> +<p>“‘How long you have been!’ said Mr. +Pickwick.</p> +<p>“‘There was something behind the door, sir, which +perwented our getting it open, for ever so long, sir,’ +replied Sam.”</p> +</blockquote> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>Resuming the journey onwards by rail from Ipswich, the route +is continued <i>viâ Saxmundham Junction</i>, +<i>Halesworth</i>, and <i>Beccles</i>, to the South Town Station +at <a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +136</span><b>Great Yarmouth</b>, a well-known and favourite +seaside resort, of much interest to the Dickensian Rambler, as +being intimately associated with the personal history and +experience of David Copperfield. Visitors are recommended, +for reasons hereafter to be seen, to select as their place of +sojourn either the “<i>Star Hotel</i>” on the Hall +Quay, or the “<i>Angel</i>,” near the +market-place. Any thoroughfare leading eastward from either +of these will conduct to the <i>Marine Parade</i>, in full view +of the German Ocean.</p> +<p>Towards the southern end of this sea frontage of the town, +there may be localised the spot where once stood the <b>Home of +Little Emily</b>, “a black barge or some other kind of +superannuated boat, high and dry on the ground, with an iron +funnel sticking out of it for a chimney. There was a +delightful door cut in the side; it was roofed in, and there were +little windows in it.”</p> +<p>The position of this old boat-house, as belonging to +Dan’l Peggotty, was at the upper extremity of the <i>South +Denes</i>, a flat and grassy expanse—beyond the +<i>Wellington Pier</i> and <i>South Battery</i>—in the +neighbourhood of the <i>Nelson Column</i>, facing the sea.</p> +<p>In chapter 22 we find a reference to the South Town ferry, +crossing the Yare, “to a flat between the river and the +sea, Mr. Peggotty’s house being on that waste place, and +not a hundred yards out of the track.”</p> +<p>[There is a small wooden erection, more than a mile and a half +distant, on the sea-front near <i>Gorleston +Pier</i>—between two well-built houses—assuming the +name of <i>Peggotty’s Hut</i>; but this is an evident +absurdity and misnomer.]</p> +<p>Here, then, we may recall the many interests and incidents +connected with the experiences of the Peggotty family, and the +sorrowful history of Little Emily, notably the fateful occasion +of <span class="smcap">Steerforth’s First Visit</span>, +concerning which David records in chapter 21 of his +autobiography, to the following effect:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Em’ly, indeed, said little all the +evening; but she looked, and listened, and her face got animated, +and she was charming. Steerforth told a story of a dismal +shipwreck (which arose out of his talk with Mr. <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>Peggotty), +as if he saw it all before him—and little +Em’ly’s eyes were fastened on him all the time, as if +she saw it too. He told us a merry adventure of his own, as +a relief to that, with as much gaiety as if the narrative were as +fresh to him as it was to us—and little Em’ly laughed +until the boat rang with the musical sounds, and we all laughed +(Steerforth too), in irresistible sympathy with what was so +pleasant and lighthearted. He got Mr. Peggotty to sing, or +rather to roar, ‘When the stormy winds do blow, do blow, do +blow;’ and he sang a sailor’s song himself, so +pathetically and beautifully, that I could have almost fancied +that the real wind creeping sorrowfully round the house, and +murmuring low through our unbroken silence, was there to +listen.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Thus commenced the sad story of the poor girl’s +fascination and subsequent flight with Steerforth, never more to +return to the old home. In this connection we may recall +the graphic and powerful description of the great <b>Storm at +Yarmouth</b>, as contained in chapter 55, when Ham met his fate +in the gallant attempt to rescue the last survivor of a wrecked +and perishing crew, Steerforth himself:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“They drew him to my very +feet—insensible—dead. He was carried to the +nearest house; and, no one preventing me now, I remained near +him, busy, while every means of restoration was tried; but he had +been beaten to death by the great wave, and his generous heart +was stilled for ever.</p> +<p>“As I sat beside the bed, when hope was abandoned and +all was done, a fisherman, who had known me when Emily and I were +children, and ever since, whispered my name at the door.</p> +<p>“Sir,’ said he, with tears starting to his +weather-beaten face, which, with his trembling lips, was ashy +pale, ‘will you come over yonder?’</p> +<p>“The old remembrance that had been recalled to me was in +his look. I asked him, terror-stricken, leaning on the arm +he held out to support me—</p> +<p>“‘Has a body come ashore?’</p> +<p>“He said, ‘Yes.’</p> +<p>“‘Do I know it?’ I asked then.</p> +<p>“He answered nothing.</p> +<p>“But he led me to the shore. And on that part of +it where she and I had looked for shells, two children—on +that part of it where some lighter fragments of the old boat, +blown down last night, had been scattered by the wind—among +the ruins of the home he had wronged—I saw him lying with +his head upon his arm, as I had often seen him lie at +school.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>In +the days of Copperfield, <b>Two Coaches</b> ran between Great +Yarmouth and London—“The Blue” and “The +Royal Mail.” On the occasion of David’s first +journey to his school at Blackheath, he travelled by the former +of these, from <b>The Angel Hotel</b>, in the Market Place. +We may here recall his dinner of chops in the coffee-room, at +which the “friendly waiter” assisted, helping himself +to the lion’s share.</p> +<p>In chapter 5 of his History, David relates the attendant +circumstances of this, his second visit to Yarmouth; and how, +starting as above from the hotel, his dinner—ordered and +paid for in advance—was mainly consumed by proxy, ale +included. We read that the waiter, “a twinkling-eyed, +pimple-faced man, with his hair standing upright all over his +head,” invited himself to the meal:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“He took a chop by the bone in one hand, and +a potato in the other, and ate away with a very good appetite, to +my extreme satisfaction. He afterwards took another chop, +and another potato; and after that another chop and another +potato. When we had done, he brought me a pudding, and +having set it before me, seemed to ruminate, and to become absent +in his mind for some moments.</p> +<p>“‘How’s the pie?’ he said, rousing +himself.</p> +<p>“‘It’s a pudding,’ I made answer.</p> +<p>“‘Pudding!’ he exclaimed. ‘Why, +bless me, so it is! What!’ looking at it +nearer. ‘You don’t mean to say it’s a +batter-pudding?’</p> +<p>“‘Yes, it is indeed.’</p> +<p>“‘Why, a batter-pudding,’ he said, taking up +a table-spoon, ‘is my favourite pudding. Ain’t +that lucky? Come on, little ’un, and let’s see +who’ll get most.’</p> +<p>“The waiter certainly got most. He entreated me +more than once to come in and win, but what with his table-spoon +to my tea-spoon, his despatch to my despatch, and his appetite to +my appetite, I was left far behind at the first mouthful, and had +no chance with him. I never saw any one enjoy a pudding so +much, I think; and he laughed, when it was all gone, as if his +enjoyment of it lasted still.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On his return journey from London, we find him coming down by +“The Mail,” which stopped at <b>The Star Hotel</b>, +on the Hall Quay, where the bedchamber, “The +Dolphin,” was assigned for his accommodation. He and +his friend Steerforth, in after visits, <a +name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>frequently +adopted this “Royal Mail” conveyance, making +headquarters at the “Star Hotel.”</p> +<p>The “volatile” <i>Miss Mowcher</i> is first +introduced to us at this establishment.</p> +<p>In chapter 22 we have the full account of David’s visit +to Yarmouth in company with Steerforth. They “stayed +for more than a fortnight in that part of the country,” +during which time Littimer, being in attendance one evening at +this hotel during dinner, informed them that <b>Miss Mowcher</b> +was making one of her professional visits to the town, and +desired an opportunity of waiting on his master. David +says:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“I remained, therefore, in a state of +considerable expectation until the cloth had been removed some +half-an-hour, and we were sitting over our decanter of wine +before the fire, when the door opened, and Littimer, with his +habitual serenity quite undisturbed, announced:</p> +<p>“‘Miss Mowcher!’</p> +<p>“I looked at the doorway and saw nothing. I was +still looking at the doorway, thinking that Miss Mowcher was a +long while making her appearance, when, to my infinite +astonishment, there came waddling round a sofa which stood +between me and it, a pursy dwarf, of about forty or forty-five, +with a very large head and face, a pair of roguish grey eyes, and +such extremely little arms, that, to enable herself to lay a +finger archly against her snub nose as she ogled Steerforth, she +was obliged to meet the finger half-way, and lay her nose against +it. Her chin, which was what is called a double-chin, was +so fat that it entirely swallowed up the strings of her bonnet, +bow and all. Throat she had none; waist she had none; legs +she had none, worth mentioning; for though she was more than +full-sized down to where her waist would have been, if she had +had any, and though she terminated, as human beings generally do, +in a pair of feet, she was so short that she stood at a +common-sized chair as at a table, resting a bag she carried on +the seat.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Sites Unlocalised</b>. At this distance of time it is +impossible to indicate the locality of “<i>The Willing +Mind</i>”—patronised by Mr. Peggotty—the +residence of <i>Mr. and Mrs. Barkis</i>, or the establishment of +<i>Messrs Omer and Joram</i>. The last is described as +being “in a narrow street,” and should be doubtless +looked for in the older part of the town.</p> +<p><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +140</span><b>Blundeston</b>, the birthplace of Copperfield, may +be visited from <i>Somerleyton Station</i>, on the line between +Yarmouth and Lowestoft. The village, with its round-towered +church, is situated about four miles eastward from the +railway. The house indicated in the novel as +<i>Blunderstone Rookery</i> stands next the church. The +excursion could include, <i>en route</i>, a visit to Somerleyton +Park, open to the public on Wednesdays.</p> +<h2><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +141</span>RAMBLE X<br /> +<i>London to Dorking and Portsmouth</i></h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Nicholas Nickleby and Smike on their +travels—Excursion by Coach, “The +Perseverance”—Route to Dorking—Residence of Mr. +and Mrs. Tony Weller—The “Marquis of +Granby”—The Rev. Mr. Stiggins and his +“pertickler vanity”—The downfall of +Stiggins—The old Horse-trough—Dorking to +Portsmouth—Parentage of Dickens—Registration of +Charles John Huffham Dickens—Birthplace of +Dickens—The Theatre-Royal—The Old +Theatre—Unlocalised Localities—Portsmouth to +London—Westminster Abbey—Tomb of Dickens—His +Funeral as reported by the <i>Daily News</i>, June +1870—Poetical Tribute—The future Outlook.</p> +<p>In the early days of the present century, Nicholas Nickleby +leaving London with Smike, bound for Portsmouth, took the high +road <i>viâ</i> Kingston and Godalming (with a view, <i>en +passant</i>, of the Devil’s Punch-bowl); walking steadily +onward until arrival, on their second day’s march, at a +roadside inn—probably in the neighbourhood of +<i>Horndean</i>. Here they met with Mr. Vincent Crummles, +of histrionic fame, and ended their more immediate perplexities +by an engagement with that gentleman. There was no railway +communication in those times, and coach fare was expensive; but +now-a-days we have adopted a cheaper and more speedy means of +transit, and may reach Portsmouth from London quickly, by two +lines of railroad.</p> +<p>As, in the following excursion, it is proposed to make an +intermediate visit <i>en route</i> to the residence (once on a +time) of Mr. and Mrs. Tony Weller, a journey by coach is +recommended to Dorking, as affording a suitable compliment to Mr. +Weller’s memory and profession. A delightful journey +may thus be made by “The Perseverance” coach, which +starts every week-day during the season, <a +name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>from +Northumberland Avenue, at 10.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, +and travels four-in-hand, <i>viâ</i> Roehampton, Kingston, +Surbiton, Epsom, Leatherhead, Mickleham, and Boxhill, and arrives +at <b>Dorking</b>, in time for luncheon at the “White Horse +Hotel,” at which the coach stops.</p> +<p>The interest of this country town centres, for Pickwickian +readers, in the “<i>Marquis of Granby</i>,” once an +inn. It exists no longer as such, having been long since +converted into a grocer’s establishment. It will be +found in the High Street, opposite the Post Office, at the side +of <i>Chequers’ Court</i>, which runs between it and the +<i>London and County Bank</i>. The old sign-board, the cosy +bar, with its store of choice wines and pine-apple rum (Mr. +Stiggins’s “pertickler vanity”), and the +horse-trough in which the reverend gentleman was half drowned by +the irate Weller, senior, are now among the things that are not; +but the old house still remains <i>in situ</i>, altered to the +uses of its present occupancy.</p> +<p>In chapter 27 of the Pickwick records we read of Sam’s +first pilgrimage to Dorking, on which occasion he paid his filial +respects to his mother-in-law, the rather stout lady of +comfortable appearance, who conducted the business of the house; +and made his acquaintance with the Rev. Mr. Stiggins of saintly +memory. The description of the establishment is given as +follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The ‘Marquis of Granby’ in Mrs. +Weller’s time was quite a model of a roadside public-house +of the better class—just large enough to be convenient, and +small enough to be snug. On the opposite side of the road +was a large sign-board on a high post, representing the head and +shoulders of a gentleman with an apoplectic countenance, in a red +coat with deep-blue facings, and a touch of the same blue over +his three-cornered hat, for a sky. Over that again were a +pair of flags; beneath the last button of his coat were a couple +of cannon; and the whole formed an expressive and undoubted +likeness of the Marquis of Granby of glorious memory.</p> +<p>“The bar window displayed a choice collection of +geranium plants, and a well-dusted row of spirit phials. +The open shutters bore a variety of golden inscriptions, +eulogistic of good beds and neat wines; and the choice group of +countrymen and hostlers lounging about the stable-door and +horse-trough, afforded presumptive proof of the excellent <a +name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>quality of +the ale and spirits which were sold within. Sam Weller +paused, when he dismounted from the coach, to note all these +little indications of a thriving business, with the eye of an +experienced traveller; and having done so, stepped in at once, +highly satisfied with everything he had observed.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. Stiggins</b>, the clerical friend and spiritual adviser +of the worthy hostess, having fully ingratiated himself in her +good graces, was in the habit of making himself very much at home +at “The Marquis”; greatly appreciating the creature +comforts there obtainable, and the good liquors kept in +stock. In point of fact, knowing when he was well off, he +lived well—if not wisely—on Mrs. Weller’s +hospitable bounty, and made headquarters at this Dorking +inn. On the occasion of Sam’s first visit before +referred to—in chapter 27, as above—this estimable +character is thus introduced to the notice of Pickwickian +students:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“He was a prim-faced, red-nosed man, with a +long, thin countenance, and a semi-rattlesnake sort of +eye—rather sharp, but decidedly bad. He wore very +short trousers, and black-cotton stockings, which, like the rest +of his apparel, were particularly rusty. His looks were +starched, but his white neckerchief was not, and its long limp +ends straggled over his closely-buttoned waistcoat in a very +uncouth and unpicturesque fashion.”</p> +<p>“The fire was blazing brightly under the influence of +the bellows, and the kettle was singing gaily under the influence +of both. A small tray of tea things was arranged on the +table, a plate of hot buttered toast was gently simmering before +the fire, and the red-nosed man himself was busily engaged in +converting a large slice of bread into the same agreeable edible, +through the instrumentality of a long brass toasting-fork. +Beside him stood a glass of reeking hot pine-apple rum and water, +with a slice of lemon in it; and every time the red-nosed man +stopped to bring the round of toast to his eye, with the view of +ascertaining how it got on, he imbibed a drop or two of the hot +pine-apple rum and water, and smiled upon the rather stout lady, +as she blew the fire.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The downfall of Stiggins</b>. The season of his +prosperity came to a sad ending after the demise of his +patroness; and in chapter 52 we read of his reverse of fortune, +and the final <i>congé</i> given to the reverend gentleman +by the irate Mr. Weller, senior, who dismissed him from his <a +name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>household +chaplaincy, in a manner more peremptory than pleasant:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“He walked softly into the bar, and +presently returning with the tumbler half full of pine-apple rum, +advanced to the kettle which was singing gaily on the hob, mixed +his grog, stirred it, sipped it, sat down, and taking a long and +hearty pull at the rum and water, stopped for breath.</p> +<p>“The elder Mr. Weller, who still continued to make +various strange and uncouth attempts to appear asleep, offered +not a single word during these proceedings; but when Stiggins +stopped for breath, he darted upon him, and snatching the tumbler +from his hand, threw the remainder of the rum and water in his +face, and the glass itself into the grate. Then, seizing +the reverend gentleman firmly by the collar, he suddenly fell to +kicking him most furiously, accompanying every application of his +top-boots to Mr. Stiggins’s person, with sundry violent and +incoherent anathemas upon his limbs, eyes, and body.</p> +<p>“‘Sammy,’ said Mr. Weller, ‘put my hat +on tight for me.’</p> +<p>“Sam dutifully adjusted the hat with the long hatband +more firmly on his father’s head, and the old gentleman, +resuming his kicking with greater agility than before, tumbled +with Mr. Stiggins through the bar, and through the passage, out +at the front door, and so into the street; the kicking continuing +the whole way, and increasing in vehemence, rather than +diminishing, every time the top-boot was lifted.</p> +<p>“It was a beautiful and exhilarating sight to see the +red-nosed man writhing in Mr. Weller’s grasp, and his whole +frame quivering with anguish as kick followed kick in rapid +succession; it was a still more exciting spectacle to behold Mr. +Weller, after a powerful struggle, immersing Mr. Stiggins’s +head in a horse-trough full of water, and holding it there until +he was half-suffocated.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The old horse-trough, as depicted by “Phiz” in the +original illustrated title-page of the book, has long since given +place to local alteration and improvement; but “hereabouts +it stood.”</p> +<p>There are many pleasant and humorous associations connected +with this old place of country entertainment, as duly set forth +in the Pickwick annals; but it should be remembered that many +years have passed since their publication (1837), and that men +and manners have greatly changed and bettered. It is +satisfactory to reflect that Mr. Stiggins and his brethren have +altogether become obsolete <a name="page145"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 145</span>in English middle-class society, and +that the protest so embodied sixty years since is no longer +necessary. In these happier days, earnestness and ability +have, in the main, superseded laziness and cant.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Dorking to Portsmouth</span>. The +journey being resumed by railway, we travel southward and +westward through the pleasant fields and pasture lands of Sussex, +<i>viâ</i> Horsham and Chichester, to the old town of +Portsmouth, where, in Landport, Portsea, Charles Dickens was +born, on Friday, the 7th of February 1812. He was the +second son (in a family of eight, six surviving infancy) of Mr. +John Dickens, a clerk in the Navy Pay Office at the +Dockyard. The name of his mother, previous to her marriage, +was Elizabeth Barrow. The baptismal record at Portsea +registers him as <span class="smcap">Charles John Huffham +Dickens</span>, but he very seldom used any other signature than +the one with which we are all familiar. On arrival at the +Portsmouth town station, we leave the railway, turning to the +right, and proceed onwards, in the main thoroughfare of +Commercial Road. Thus we shortly reach, in due course, +<b>The Birthplace of Dickens</b>. The house (No. 387 +Commercial Road, Landport) stands about half a mile northward (to +the right) from the railway station, with a neat forecourt. +It bears a tablet recording date of the event, as above.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p145.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Dickens’ Birthplace" +title= +"Dickens’ Birthplace" +src="images/p145.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>South of the station (leftward), beyond the Town Hall, will be +found, on the right, <b>The Theatre Royal</b>; but it should be +noted that this is <i>not</i> the establishment referred to in +“Nicholas Nickleby.”</p> +<p>That old theatre, at which Nicholas—adopting the +professional <i>alias</i> of “Johnson”—made his +histrionic <i>début</i> under the managerial auspices of +Mr. Vincent Crummles, occupied, some eighty years since, the +present site of <b>The Cambridge Barracks</b>, in the <i>High +Street</i>, farther onwards.</p> +<p>We read in the same book that the <i>Crummles</i> family +resided at the house of one Bulph, a pilot; that <i>Miss +Snevellicci</i> had lodgings in Lombard Street, at the house of +<a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>a +tailor, where also <i>Mr. and Mrs. Lillyvick</i> found temporary +accommodation; and that <i>Nicholas</i> and <i>Smike</i> lived in +two small rooms, up three pair of stairs, at a +tobacconist’s shop, on the Common Hard. But it is not +possible to particularise these places; indeed, it is altogether +doubtful whether they had any special assignment in the mind of +the author himself.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>Leaving Portsmouth, at convenience, by the <i>Brighton and +South Coast Railway</i>, we may take the return journey to London +in about three hours, arriving at the West End Terminus of the +line, <i>Victoria Station</i>. From this point we may +revisit, <i>viâ Victoria Street</i>, about half a mile in +distance, <b>Westminster Abbey</b>, containing the <span +class="smcap">Tomb of Dickens</span>, which will be found in the +classic shade of the <i>Poets’ Corner</i>. At the +time of his death the <i>Times</i> “took the lead in +suggesting that the only fit resting-place for the remains of a +man so dear to England was the Abbey, in which most illustrious +Englishmen are laid;” and accordingly, on the 14th of June, +the funeral took place, with a strict observance of +privacy. In Dean Stanley’s “<span +class="smcap">Westminster Abbey</span>” the following +statement is given:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Close under the bust of Thackeray lies +Charles Dickens, not, it may be, his equal in humour, but more +than his equal in his hold on the popular mind, as was shown in +the intense and general enthusiasm shown at his grave. The +funeral, according to Dickens’s urgent and express desire +in his will, was strictly private. It took place at an +early hour in the summer morning, the grave having been dug in +secret the night before; and the vast solitary space of the Abbey +was occupied only by the small band of mourners, and the Abbey +clergy, who, without any music except the occasional peal of the +organ, read the funeral service. For days the spot was +visited by thousands; many were the flowers strewn upon it by +unknown hands; many were the tears shed by the poorer +visitors. He rests beside Sheridan, Garrick, and +Henderson.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The plain stone covering the tomb is inscribed</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">CHARLES DICKENS,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Born February 7th, +1812. Died June 9th, 1870.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +147</span><b>Report of the Funeral</b>, as published in the +<i>Daily News</i>, June 15th, 1870:—“Charles Dickens +lies, without one of his injunctions respecting his funeral +having been violated, surrounded by poets and men of +genius. Shakespeare’s marble effigy looked yesterday +into his open grave; at his feet are Dr. Johnson and David +Garrick; his head is by Addison and Handel; while Oliver +Goldsmith, Rowe, Southey, Campbell, Thomson, Sheridan, Macaulay, +and Thackeray, or their memorials, encircle him; and +‘Poets’ Corner,’ the most familiar spot in the +whole Abbey, has thus received an illustrious addition to its +peculiar glory. . . . Dickens’s obsequies were as +simple as he desired. The news that a special train left +Rochester at an early hour yesterday morning, and that it carried +his remains, was soon telegraphed to London; but every +arrangement had been completed beforehand, and there was no one +in the Abbey; no one to follow the three simple mourning coaches +and the hearse; no one to obtrude upon the mourners. The +waiting-room at Charing Cross Station was set apart for the +latter for the quarter of an hour they remained there; the Abbey +doors were closed directly they reached it; and even the mourning +coaches were not permitted to wait. A couple of street cabs +and a single brougham took the funeral party away when the last +solemn rites were over, so that passers-by were unaware that any +ceremony was being conducted; and it was not until a good hour +after that the south transept began to fill. There were no +cloaks, no weepers, no bands, no scarfs, no feathers, none of the +dismal frippery of the undertaker. We yesterday bade the +reader turn to that portion of ‘Great Expectations,’ +in which the funeral of Joe Gargery’s wife is described; he +will there find full details of the miserable things +omitted. In the same part of the same volume he will find +reverent allusion to the time when ‘those noble passages +are read which remind humanity how it brought nothing into the +world and can take nothing out, and how it fleeth like a shadow, +and never continueth long in one stay;’ and will think of +the solemn scene in Westminster <a name="page148"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 148</span>Abbey, with the Dean reading our +solemn burial service, the organ chiming in, subdued and low, and +the vast place empty, save for the little group of heart-stricken +people by an open grave; a plain oak coffin, with a brass plate +bearing the inscription:—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">‘CHARLES +DICKENS,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Born February 7th, 1812,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Died June 9th, 1870’;</p> +</blockquote> +<p>a coffin strewed with wreaths and flowers by the female +mourners; and then dust to dust and ashes to ashes! Such +was the funeral of the great man who has gone. In coming to +the Abbey, in the first coach were the late Mr. Dickens’s +children—Mr. Charles Dickens, jun., Mr. Harry Dickens, Miss +Dickens, Mrs. Charles Collins. In the second coach were +Mrs. Austin, his sister; Mrs. Charles Dickens, jun.; Miss +Hogarth, his sister-in-law; Mr. John Forster. In the third +coach Mr. Frank Beard, his medical attendant; Mr. Charles +Collins, his son-in-law; Mr. Dewey, his solicitor; Mr. Wilkie +Collins; Mr. Edmund Dickens, his nephew.</p> +<p>“By the orders of the Dean of Westminster, the officials +were instructed to keep the grave open until six o’clock +last evening, and all who came had the melancholy satisfaction of +seeing not only the grave itself, but the polished oak coffin +which contained the remains of the lamented deceased. A +raised platform was placed around the grave, and two of the +vergers of the Abbey were in attendance to prevent crowding and +preserve order, an almost unnecessary precaution, for all who +came, comprising persons of various classes, conducted themselves +in the most exemplary manner. In the afternoon, when the +fact of the interment became generally known, and that the coffin +was to be seen, the crowds arriving at the Abbey became very +great, and between twelve and six o’clock many thousands of +persons had been present. Large numbers paid a simple +tribute to the memory of the deceased by throwing the flowers <a +name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>they wore +in their coat or dress on to the coffin, until, towards the close +of the afternoon, it was completely covered with these simplest +offerings of public affection.”</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>The following <b>Poetical Tribute</b>, <i>in Memoriam</i>, +was, at that sad time, contributed to the public Press, and is +worthy of remembrance:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The Artist sleeps, yet friends are here he +gave <br /> + The fair dream-children that his fancy drew;<br /> +A phantom crowd still gathers at his grave,<br /> + And in each character he lives anew.</p> +<p>“Soft winds of summer breathe along the fane, <br /> + The honoured sepulchre where Dickens lies; <br /> +An Emigravit write we in our pain—<br /> + He is not dead—the artist never dies.</p> +<p>“The statesman wins the mantle of a peer, <br /> + The warrior boasts all titles of renown; <br /> +We leave one laurel only on his bier,<br /> + And England’s love is greater than a +crown.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right"> “S. +C.”</p> +</blockquote> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>So long as the art of printing remains in Society, and the +powers of affection, appreciation, and sympathy survive in the +hearts of Anglo-Saxons—of the Old World or the +New—the name and fame of <span class="smcap">Charles +Dickens</span> will be ever held fresh and green amongst +us. And, through the coming summer-dawn of +time—amidst the destined agencies slowly evolving the +brighter omens of the future—his genius shall remain +co-operant. For, let us rest assured that “the +thoughts of men are widened with the process of the suns”; +that the wheel of time is rolling, surely for an end; and that +all worthy labour in the cause of human progress shall become +Immortal, as it helps to make the world purer, gentler, and more +Christian; and hastens onwards the fulfilment of its nobler +destiny.</p> +<h2><a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +150</span>APPENDIX</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">“The Pickwick Papers”; Mrs. +Bardell’s House—The Spaniards’ Inn [Wellington +Academy]. “Oliver Twist”; Mr. Brownlow’s +Residence—Fagin and Bill Sykes. “Nicholas +Nickleby”; The London Tavern—Mrs. Nickleby and Kate +in Thames Street—Mortimer Knag’s +Library—General Agency Office—Messrs. Cheeryble +Brothers—Residence of Mrs. Wititterly. “Barnaby +Rudge”; The Golden Key—Cellar of Mr. Stagg—The +Black Lion Tavern. “Martin Chuzzlewit”; Anthony +Chuzzlewit and Son—Montague Tigg, Esq., Pall Mall—Tom +Pinch and Ruth at Islington. “Dombey & +Son”; Polly Toodles at Staggs Gardens—Miss Tox and +Major Bagstock, Princess Place—Mrs. MacStinger and Captain +Cuttle, No. 9 Brig Place. “David Copperfield”; +Mr. Creakle’s Establishment, Salem House—The Micawber +family—Residence of Mrs. Steerforth—Doctor and Mrs. +Strong—Mr. and Mrs. D. Copperfield—Mr. +Traddles’s lodgings. “Bleak House”; +Addresses of Mr. Guppy and his Mother—Apartments of Mr. +Jarndyce—Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed, Mount +Pleasant—George’s Shooting Gallery—Mr. and Mrs. +Bagnet—Harold Skimpole and family. “Little +Dorrit”; The House of Mrs. Clennam—Residence of Mr. +Tite Barnacle—The Patriarchal Casby. “Tale of +Two Cities”; Old Church of St. Pancras in the Fields. +“Great Expectations”; Private Residence of Mr. +Jaggers—Wemmick’s Castle, Walworth—Mr. Barley, +<i>alias</i> old Gruff-and-Glum. “Our Mutual +Friend”; Gaffer Hexam’s House—The Six Jolly +Fellowship Porters—Rogue Riderhood and his +Daughter—Mr. Twemlow’s Lodgings—The Veneerings +and the Podsnaps—Boffin’s Bower.—Mr. R. +Wilfer’s Residence—Establishment of Mr. Venus. +“Mystery of Edwin Drood”; The Opium Smokers’ +Den.</p> +<p>The various localities referred to in the foregoing <span +class="smcap">Rambles</span> comprise all the more interesting +and better-known points which the Reader of Dickens would most +naturally desire to visit. In addition to these, however, +there are several places mentioned in the many works <a +name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>of +“The inimitable Boz” which may be enumerated, but +cannot for the following reasons be included in such specified +routes:—</p> +<p>(1) Neighbourhoods have, in course of years, altogether +changed, making it extremely difficult (in many cases impossible) +to specify with exactitude the former situation of old houses, +which have long become part and parcel of the forgotten past, +“lost to sight” and now only “to memory +dear.”</p> +<p>(2) The indications given in the various tales have, in some +cases, been purposely rendered vague and uncertain; it being the +evident aim of the author to avoid precision, and to afford no +definite clue to the position of many places named.</p> +<p>(3) Some of the localities specified are situated at a +considerable distance from any main line of route, and can be +visited only by separate excursion specially undertaken for the +purpose.</p> +<p>In the following addendum these uncertain or distant addresses +are given under the headings of those books in which they +respectively occur; in order that Ramblers, if so disposed, +may—in the words of Mr. +Peggotty—“fisherate” for themselves.</p> +<h3>THE PICKWICK PAPERS.</h3> +<p><b>Mrs. Bardell’s House</b> was located in <i>Goswell +Street</i>, certainly in a central position; for we read that, as +Mr. Pickwick looked from his chamber-window on the world +beneath,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Goswell Street was at his feet, Goswell +Street was on his right hand, as far as the eye could reach, +Goswell Street extended on his left, and the opposite side of +Goswell Street was over the way.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The</b> “<b>Spaniards’ Inn</b>” at +<i>Hampstead</i> may be remembered as the scene of the tea-party +at which <i>Mrs. Bardell</i> and a few select friends enjoyed +themselves, previous to her unexpected arrest and removal to the +Fleet Prison, at the suit of <i>Messrs. Dodson and +Fogg</i>. There still exists the “Spaniards” at +Heath End, Hampstead Heath.</p> +<p><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +152</span>[Visitors to Hampstead may be disposed to visit the +site once occupied by Mr. Jones’s School, called the +“Wellington Academy,” at which Dickens received some +two years’ technical education; being a little over +fourteen years old when he left. The house is now in +possession of the <span class="smcap">Inland Revenue +Office</span>, at the corner of Granby Street, 247 Hampstead +Road; part of the premises abutting on the London and +North-Western Railway, the formation of which demolished the old +schoolroom and playground.]</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p152.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “Spaniards,” Hampstead Heath" +title= +"The “Spaniards,” Hampstead Heath" +src="images/p152.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h3>OLIVER TWIST.</h3> +<p><b>Mr. Brownlow’s Residence</b>, in “a quiet shady +street near Pentonville,” cannot he fairly localised. +In the days of “Oliver Twist,” Mr. George Cruikshank, +the illustrator of the book, lived at <i>Myddelton Terrace</i>, +Pentonville; and possibly Dickens bethought himself of this +vicinity in consequence.</p> +<p><b>Fagin’s House</b> in <i>Whitechapel</i> and the +residence of <i>Bill Sykes</i> cannot, with any fairness, be +accurately indicated. The latter is spoken of as being in +“one of a maze of mean and dirty streets, which abound in +the close and densely populated quarter of Bethnal +Green.”</p> +<h3>NICHOLAS NICKLEBY.</h3> +<p><b>The London Tavern</b>, at which was held the Meeting in +promotion of “The United Metropolitan Improved Hot Muffin +and Crumpet Baking and Punctual Delivery Company,” once +(many years since) occupied the site of the <span +class="smcap">Royal Bank of Scotland</span>, 123 <i>Bishopsgate +Street Within</i>, on the left hand entering the street from +Cornhill.</p> +<p><b>Mrs. Nickleby</b> and her daughter Kate lived, per favour +of their amiable relative, in <i>Thames Street</i>. This +business thoroughfare has undergone considerable reconstruction +since the days of their tenancy, and the particular dwelling +intended cannot be identified. The place is described as a +“large, old dingy house, the doors and windows of which +were so bespattered with mud that it would have appeared to have +been uninhabited for years.”</p> +<p><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +153</span><b>Mr. Mortimer Knag</b> kept a small circulating +library “in a by-street off Tottenham Court Road,” +where also lived his sister, <i>Miss Knag</i>, the presiding +genius of Madame Mantalini’s establishment; and we may +remember the evening when Mrs. Nickleby and Kate were graciously +invited to supper at this abode of literary genius.</p> +<p><b>The General Agency Office</b>, at which Nicholas Nickleby +obtained the address of <i>Mr. Gregsbury</i>, <i>M.P.</i>, +Manchester Buildings, Westminster (also one of the lost +localities of London), and where he first met <i>Madeline +Bray</i>, has no specified direction in the book. There +have been few such agencies existent in a central position in +London.</p> +<p><b>Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers</b> had their place of business +in a small City square. “Passing along Threadneedle +Street, and through some lanes and passages on the right,” +we read that Nicholas was conducted by <i>Mr. Charles +Cheeryble</i> to the place in occupation of the firm—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The City square has no enclosure, save the +lamp-post in the middle, and no grass but the weeds which spring +up around its base. It is a quiet, little-frequented, +retired spot, favourable to melancholy and contemplation, and +appointments of long waiting. . . . In winter-time the snow +will linger there long after it has melted from the busy streets +and highways. The summer’s sun holds it in some +respect, and while he darts his cheerful rays sparingly into the +square, keeps his fiery heat and glare for noisier and less +imposing precincts. It is so quiet, that you can almost +hear the ticking of your own watch, when you stop to cool in its +refreshing atmosphere. There is a distant hum—of +coaches, not of insects—but no other sound disturbs the +stillness of the square.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Residence of Mrs. Wititterly</b> is referred to as +having been pleasantly situated in Cadogan Place, Sloane +Street—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Cadogan Place is the one slight bond which +joins two extremities; it is the connecting link between the +aristocratic pavements of Belgrave Square and the barbarism of +Chelsea. It is in Sloane Street, but not of it. The +people of Cadogan Place look down upon Sloane Street, and think +Brompton low. They affect fashion, too, and wonder where +the New Road is. Not that they claim to be on precisely the +same footing as the high folks of Belgrave Square and Grosvenor +Place, but that they stand, in reference to them, rather in the +light of those illegitimate <a name="page154"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 154</span>children of the great, who are +content to boast of their connexions, although their connexions +disavow them.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3>BARNABY RUDGE.</h3> +<p>“<b>The Golden Key</b>”—the house of honest +<i>Gabriel Varden</i>, the locksmith—was in Clerkenwell, +situated in a quiet street not far from the Charter +House—</p> +<blockquote><p>“A modest building, not very straight, not +large, not tall, not bold-faced, with great staring windows, but +a shy, blinking house, with a conical roof going up into a peak +over its garret window of four small panes of glass, like a +cocked hat on the head of an elderly gentleman with one +eye. It was not built of brick, or lofty stone, but of wood +and plaster; it was not planned with a dull and wearisome regard +to regularity, for no one window matched the other, or seemed to +have the slightest reference to anything beside +itself.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This was its description one hundred years ago, and its exact +whereabouts cannot now be ascertained. There are some old +plaster-fronted houses, evidently belonging to the last century, +still to be found in <i>Albemarle Street</i>, near <i>St. +John’s Square</i>, but none of these fairly correspond with +the description of “The Golden Key.”</p> +<p><b>The Cellar of Mr. Stagg</b> was situated in +<i>Barbican</i>. We read that its position was “in +one of the narrowest of the narrow streets which diverge from +that centre, in a blind court or yard, profoundly dark, unpaved, +and reeking with stagnant odours.”</p> +<p>“<b>The Black Lion</b>” <b>Tavern</b> can only be +identified as being situated in Whitechapel. It was a +favourite resort of <i>Mr. John Willett</i>, landlord of the +“<span class="smcap">Maypole Inn</span>” at +<i>Chigwell</i>, when he came to town; and we may remember it as +the scene of <i>Dolly Varden’s</i> satisfactory interview +with her lover Joe, after his return from “the +Salwanners.”</p> +<h3>MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT.</h3> +<p><b>Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son</b> had their place of business +near <i>Aldersgate Street</i>. Their dreary residence was +the bridal home of Mercy Pecksniff—married by Jonas +Chuzzlewit—and we may recollect her reception at this +establishment by the worthy <i>Sairey Gamp</i>. To this +house Jonas <a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +155</span>returned after the murder of Montague Tigg, and was +here arrested by his relative <i>Chevy Slyme</i>, in the presence +of his uncle and Mark Tapley. Its situation is described as +being in</p> +<blockquote><p>“A very narrow street, somewhere behind the +Post Office, where every house was in the brightest summer +morning very gloomy; and where light porters watered the +pavement, each before his own employer’s premises, in +fantastic patterns in the dog-days; and where spruce gentlemen, +with their hands in the pockets of symmetrical trousers, were +always to be seen in warm weather contemplating their undeniable +boots in dusty warehouse doorways, which appeared to be the +hardest work they did, except now and then carrying pens behind +their ears.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Montague Tigg</b>, <b>Esq.</b>, the Chairman of the +<i>Anglo-Bengalee Insurance Company</i>, lived in luxurious +chambers in <i>Pall Mall</i>; and we may remember the morning +when Jonas Chuzzlewit called at the residence of his chief, and +was disagreeably surprised to find his friend in full possession +of his secret history—with <i>Mr. Nadgett</i> in +attendance.</p> +<p><b>Tom Pinch</b> and his sister <i>Ruth</i> lodged at +“Merry Islington,” “in a singular little +old-fashioned house, up a blind street,” where they were +accommodated with two small bedrooms and a triangular parlour, +the householder being the inscrutable <i>Mr. Nadgett</i>. +In “Martin Chuzzlewit” are contained many pleasant +episodes associated with these modest apartments; where, as we +all know, little Ruth made her first culinary experiment, and was +pleasantly surprised the next morning to find the merry present +of a cookery-book awaiting her in the parlour (sent by John +Westlock), with the beefsteak pudding leaf turned down and +blotted out.</p> +<h3>DOMBEY AND SON.</h3> +<p><b>Polly Toodles</b> (otherwise Richards) lived with her +husband and her “apple-faced” family, at +<i>Stagg’s Gardens</i>, <i>Camden Town</i>, at the time +when the London and North-Western Railway was in course of +construction—</p> +<blockquote><p>“As yet the neighbourhood was shy to own the +railroad. One or two bold speculators had projected +streets, and one had built a little, <a name="page156"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 156</span>but had stopped among the mud and +ashes to consider further of it. A bran new tavern, +redolent of fresh mortar and size, and fronting nothing at all, +had taken for its sign the ‘Railway Arms;’ but that +might be rash enterprise—and then it hoped to sell drink to +the workmen. So the Excavators’ house of Call had +sprung up from a beer-shop, and the old-established Ham and Beef +Shop had become the Railway Eating House, with a roast leg of +pork daily, through interested motives of a similar immediate and +popular description.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In a later chapter of “Dombey” we read of +Stagg’s Gardens having vanished from the earth—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Where the old rotten summer-houses once had +stood, palaces now reared their heads, and granite columns of +gigantic girth opened a vista to the railway world beyond. +The miserable waste ground, where the refuse matter had been +heaped of yore, was swallowed up and gone, and in its frowzy +stead were tiers of warehouses, crammed with rich goods and +costly merchandise. The old bye-streets now swarmed with +passengers and vehicles of every kind: the new streets that had +stopped disheartened in the mud and waggon-ruts, formed towns +within themselves, originating wholesome comforts and +conveniences belonging to themselves, and never tried nor thought +of until they sprung into existence.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Miss Lucretia Tox</b> had apartments at <i>Princess +Place</i>, an address not included in the London Directory; and +<i>Major Bagstock</i> also had chambers in the immediate +vicinity, a genteel but somewhat inconvenient +neighbourhood. Miss Tox’s residence is described +as</p> +<blockquote><p>“A dark little house, that had been squeezed +at some remote period of English history into a fashionable +neighbourhood at the west end of the town, where it stood in the +shade, like a poor relation of the great street round the corner, +coldly looked down upon by mighty mansions. It was not +exactly in a court, and it was not exactly in a yard, but it was +in the dullest of No-Thoroughfares, rendered anxious and haggard +by double knocks. . . . There is a smack of stabling in the +air of Princess Place, and Miss Tox’s bedroom (which was at +the back) commanded a vista of mews, where hostlers, at whatever +sort of work engaged, were continually accompanying themselves +with effervescent noises, and where the most domestic and +confidential garments of coachmen and their wives and families +usually hung like Macbeth’s banners on the outer +walls.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mrs. MacStinger</b> presided at <i>No. 9 Brig Place</i>, +finding accommodation for <i>Captain Cuttle</i> as her first +floor lodger, <a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +157</span>previous to the time of his hurried and secret removal +to the quarters of <i>The Wooden Midshipman</i>. We read +that the house was situated</p> +<blockquote><p>“On the brink of a little canal near the +India Docks, where the air was perfumed with chips, and all other +trades were swallowed up in mast, oar, and block making, and boat +building. Then the ground grew marshy and unsettled. +Then there was nothing to be smelt but rum and sugar. Then +Captain Cuttle’s lodgings, at once a first floor and a top +storey, in Brig Place, were close before you.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3>DAVID COPPERFIELD.</h3> +<p><b>Mr. Creakle’s</b> educational establishment, +“<i>Salem House</i>,” was, we are told, “down +by Blackheath.” A large, dull house, standing away +from the main road among some dark trees, and surrounded by a +high wall. The character of Mr. Creakle seems to have been +drawn from life; being, in fact, a portrait of the proprietor of +the “<i>Wellington Academy</i>,” Hampstead Road, +previously referred to. <i>Dr. Danson</i>, an old +schoolfellow of Dickens, writing to Mr. Forster, states that this +“Mr. Jones was a Welshman, a most ignorant fellow, and a +mere tyrant, whose chief employment was to scourge the +boys.” Also, Mr. Forster, speaking of the school, +says, “it had supplied some of the lighter traits of Salem +House for ‘Copperfield.’”</p> +<p><b>Mr. Micawber</b> lived in Windsor Terrace, City Road, at +the time he first received young David Copperfield as a lodger, +and previous to the crisis in his pecuniary affairs which removed +him to <span class="smcap">King’s Bench Prison</span> in +the Borough.</p> +<p>We also read, later in the book, of the Micawbers as located +in a little street near <i>The Veterinary College</i>, <i>Camden +Town</i>, what time <i>Mr. Traddles</i> was their lodger; and we +may remember how the astute Mr. Micawber took advantage of the +circumstance, by obtaining the friendly signature of his inmate +as security, in the matter of two bills “not provided +for.”</p> +<p><b>Mrs. Steerforth</b> resided in “an old brick house at +<i>Highgate</i>, on the summit of the hill; a genteel, +old-fashioned house, very quiet, and very orderly,” from +which position a <a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +158</span>comprehensive view was obtainable of “all London +lying in the distance like a great vapour, with here and there +some lights twinkling through it.” In connection with +this house we may recall the characters of <i>Rosa Dartle</i> and +the respectable serving-man <i>Littimer</i>.</p> +<p><b>Doctor and Mrs. Strong</b> also lived in a cottage at +Highgate after their removal from Canterbury; and <i>Mr. and Mrs. +David Copperfield</i> resided in the same neighbourhood, with +<i>Betsy Trotwood</i> established in a convenient cottage near at +hand.</p> +<p><b>Mr. Traddles</b>, in his bachelor days, had lodgings behind +the parapet of a house in <i>Castle Street</i>, +<i>Holborn</i>. This thoroughfare has now changed its name, +and is known as <span class="smcap">Furnival Street</span>. +It may be found on the south side of Holborn, and west of Fetter +Lane, leading to Cursitor Street.</p> +<h3>BLEAK HOUSE.</h3> +<p><b>Mr. Guppy</b> mentioned his address as 87 <i>Penton +Place</i>, <i>Pentonville</i>; but the London Directory does not +now include the number specified. The residence of <i>Mrs. +Guppy</i>, his mother, is stated as having been 302 <i>Old Street +Road</i>; previous to the time when a house was taken (by mother +and son) in <i>Walcot Square</i>, <i>Lambeth</i>, on the south +side of the Thames, and Mr. Guppy started on his independent +professional career.</p> +<p><b>Mr. Jarndyce</b> once sojourned in London, “at a +cheerful lodging near <i>Oxford Street</i>, over an +upholsterer’s shop,” at which also Ada Clare and +Esther Summerson were accommodated.</p> +<p><b>Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed</b> vegetated, with their +grandchildren, “in a rather ill-favoured and ill-savoured +neighbourhood, though one of its rising grounds bears the name of +<i>Mount Pleasant</i>.” This beatific neighbourhood +will be found north of <i>Clerkenwell Road</i> (approached by +<i>Laystall Street</i>), in the neighbourhood of the <span +class="smcap">Middlesex House of Correction</span>.</p> +<p><b>George’s Shooting Gallery</b> is memorable as the +place <a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +159</span>where <i>Gridley</i>—“the man from +Shropshire”—died; where also <i>Poor Jo</i>, clinging +to the spars of the Lord’s Prayer, drifted out upon the +unknown sea. It is described as “a great brick +building, composed of bare walls, floors, roof-rafters, and +skylights; on the front of which was painted +‘George’s Shooting Gallery.’” Its +location is given as being up a court and a long whitewashed +passage, in</p> +<blockquote><p>“That curious region lying about the +Haymarket and Leicester Square, which is a centre of attraction +to indifferent foreign hotels and indifferent foreigners, racket +courts, fighting men, swordsmen, foot-guards, old china, +gambling-houses, exhibitions, and a large medley of shabbiness +and shrinking out of sight.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. Bagnet</b> and his “old girl” kept house +and home on the Surrey side of the river; but no more precise +indication of their whereabouts is given than is contained in the +following reference:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“By Blackfriars’ Bridge, and +Blackfriars’ Road, Mr. George sedately marches to a street +of little shops lying somewhere in that ganglion of roads from +Kent and Surrey, and of streets from the bridges of London, +centreing in the far-famed Elephant who has lost his +castle.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Town House of Sir Leicester</b> and Lady Dedlock was +situated in a dull aristocratic street in the western district of +London,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Where the two long rows of houses stare at +each other with that severity, that half-a-dozen of its greatest +mansions seem to have been slowly stared into stone, rather than +originally built in that material. It is a street of such +dismal grandeur, so determined not to condescend to liveliness, +that the doors and windows hold a gloomy state of their own in +black paint and dust, and the echoing mews behind have a dry and +massive appearance, as if they were reserved to stable the stone +chargers of noble statues.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Harold Skimpole</b> and family had their residence in the +<i>Polygon</i>, near to the <span class="smcap">Euston +Terminus</span> (on the east side), in the centre of <i>Clarendon +Square</i>, <i>Somers Town</i>. The house is described as +being sadly in want of repair—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Two or three of the area railings were +gone; the water-butt was broken; the knocker was loose; the +bell-handle had been pulled off a long time, to judge from the +rusty state of the wire; and dirty footprints on the steps were +the only signs of its being inhabited.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +160</span>LITTLE DORRIT.</h3> +<p><b>The House of Mrs. Clennam</b> was situated not far from the +river, in the neighbourhood of <i>Upper Thames Street</i>. +We read that Arthur Clennam, on his arrival in London,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Crossed by Saint Paul’s and went +down, at a long angle, almost to the water’s edge, through +some of the crooked and descending streets which lie (and lay +more crookedly and closely then) between the river and Cheapside +. . . passing silent warehouses and wharves, and here and there a +narrow alley leading to the river, where a wretched little bill, +‘Found Drowned,’ was weeping on the wet wall; he came +at last to the house he sought. An old brick house, so +dingy as to be all but black, standing by itself within a +gateway.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. Tite Barnacle</b> had his residence in <i>Mews +Street</i>, <i>Grosvenor Square</i>—</p> +<blockquote><p>“It was a hideous little street of dead +wall, stables, and dunghills, with lofts over coach-houses +inhabited by coachmen’s families, who had a passion for +drying clothes, and decorating their window-sills with miniature +turnpike-gates. The principal chimney-sweep of that +fashionable quarter lived at the blind end of Mews Street. . . +. Yet there were two or three small airless houses at the +entrance end of Mews Street, which went at enormous rents on +account of their being abject hangers-on to a fashionable +situation; and whenever one of these fearful little coops was to +be let (which seldom happened, for they were in great request), +the house agent advertised it as a gentlemanly residence in the +most aristocratic part of the town, inhabited solely by the +élite of the beau monde.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>The Patriarchal Casby</b>, with his daughter—the +irrepressible <i>Flora</i>—and <i>Mr. F.’s +Aunt</i>,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Lived in a street in the Gray’s Inn +Road, which had set off from that thoroughfare with the intention +of running at one heat down into the valley, and up again to the +top of Pentonville Hill; but which had run itself out of breath +in twenty yards, and had stood still ever since. There is +no such place in that part now; but it remained there for many +years, looking with a baulked countenance at the wilderness +patched with unfruitful gardens, and pimpled with eruptive +summer-houses, that it had meant to run over in no +time.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3>TALE OF TWO CITIES.</h3> +<p>In this Tale we read of the funeral of <i>Cly</i>, the Old +Bailey Informer; the interment taking place in the burial-ground +attached to the ancient church of <a name="page161"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 161</span><b>St. Pancras in the +Fields</b>. This edifice still exists in <span +class="smcap">Pancras Road</span> (east side, opposite +<i>Goldington Crescent</i>), which leads from King’s Cross, +northward, to Kentish Town. There is a church of the same +name to be found in the <span class="smcap">Euston +Road</span>—east of <i>Upper Woburn Place</i>, but this is +altogether another and more modern structure than the one above +referred to. A century since, at the time of the funeral +described, the name of this locality was literally correct; the +church being situated in the outlying fields of the suburban +village of <span class="smcap">Pancras</span>. We may here +recollect the fishing expedition undertaken by <i>Mr. +Cruncher</i> and his two companions, on the night following the +funeral; when young <i>Jerry</i> quietly followed his +“honoured parent,” and assured himself of the nature +of his father’s secret avocation.</p> +<h3>GREAT EXPECTATIONS.</h3> +<p><b>Mr. Jaggers</b>, the Old Bailey lawyer, had his private +residence on the south side of <i>Gerrard Street</i>, +<i>Soho</i>, where he lived in solitary state, with his eccentric +housekeeper, the mother of Estella: “Rather a stately house +of its kind, but dolefully in want of painting, and with dirty +windows.”</p> +<p><b>Wemmick’s Castle</b> at <i>Walworth</i> is altogether +a place of the past; Walworth being now one of the most populous +and crowded of metropolitan districts. We read that in +Pip’s time</p> +<blockquote><p>“It appeared to be a collection of black +lanes, ditches, and little gardens, and to present the aspect of +a rather dull retirement. Wemmick’s house was a +little wooden cottage in the midst of plots of garden, and the +top of it was cut out and painted like a battery mounted with +guns.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Mr. Barley</b>, <i>alias Old Gruff-and-Glum</i>, lived at +<i>Mill Pond Bank</i>, by Chinks’s Basin and the Old Green +Copper Rope-walk. Pip says the place was anything but easy +to find. Losing himself among shipbuilders’ and +shipbreakers’ yards, he continues the description of his +search as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“After several times falling short of my +destination, and as often overshooting it, I came unexpectedly +round a corner, upon Mill Pond <a name="page162"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 162</span>Bank. It was a fresh kind of +place, all circumstances considered, where the wind from the +river had room to turn itself round; and there were two or three +trees in it, and there was the stump of a ruined windmill, and +there was the Old Green Copper Rope-walk—whose long and +narrow vista I could trace in the moonlight, along a series of +wooden frames set in the ground, that looked like superannuated +haymaking rakes, which had grown old and lost most of their +teeth. Selecting from the few queer houses upon Mill Pond +Bank, a house with a wooden front and three storeys of bow-window +(not bay-window, which is another thing), I looked at the plate +upon the door, and read there Mrs. Whimple . . . the name I +wanted.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3>OUR MUTUAL FRIEND.</h3> +<p><b>The House of Gaffer Hexam</b>, the humble home of <i>Lizzie +Hexam</i> and her brother, was situated somewhere in the district +of <i>Limehouse</i>, near the river. In a description given +of the route by which Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn approached +this locality, we read—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Down by the Monument, and by the Tower, and +by the Docks; down by Ratcliffe, and by Rotherhithe. . . . +In and out among vessels that seemed to have got ashore, and +houses that seemed to have got afloat—among bowsprits +staring into windows, and windows staring into ships—the +wheels rolled on, until they stopped at a dark corner, +river-washed and otherwise not washed at all, where the boy +alighted and opened the door.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>“<b>The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters</b>” was +located in this same vicinity, overlooking the river. A +waterside public-house, kept by <i>Miss Abbey Patterson</i>, who +enforced a certain standard of respectability among her numerous +clients, and conducted the house with a strict regard to +discipline and punctuality—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Externally, it was a narrow, lop-sided, +wooden jumble of corpulent windows heaped one upon another, as +you might heap as many toppling oranges, with a crazy wooden +verandah impending over the water; indeed, the whole house, +inclusive of the complaining flagstaff on the roof, impended over +the water, but seemed to have got into the condition of a +faint-hearted diver who has paused so long on the brink that he +will never go in at all. . . . The back of the +establishment, though the chief entrance, was there so contracted +that it merely represented, in its connection with the front, the +handle of a flat iron set upright on its broadest end. This +handle stood at the bottom of a wilderness of court and alley; +which wilderness pressed so hard and <a name="page163"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 163</span>close upon the ‘Six Jolly +Fellowship Porters,’ as to leave the hostelry not an inch +of ground beyond its door.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><b>Rogue Riderhood</b> and his daughter <i>Pleasant</i> traded +at <i>Limehouse Hole</i>, in the same district as above, where +they kept “a leaving shop” for sailors; advancing +small sums of money on the portable property of seafaring +customers. Mr. Riderhood did not stand well in the esteem +of the neighbourhood, which “was rather shy in reference to +the honour of cultivating” his acquaintance, his daughter +being the more respectable and respected member of the firm.</p> +<p>Mr. Twemlow, “an innocent piece of dinner +furniture,” often in request in certain West-end circles of +society, lodged in <i>Duke Street</i>, <i>St. James’s</i>, +“over a livery stable-yard.”</p> +<p><b>The Location of the Veneering Family</b> is described as +“a bran-new house, in a bran-new quarter,” designated +by the appellation of “<i>Stucconia</i>;” while their +intimate friends <b>The Podsnaps</b> flourished “in a shady +angle adjoining <i>Portman Square</i>.”</p> +<p><b>Boffin’s Bower</b>, the home in which we are first +introduced to the Golden Dustman and his wife, was to be found +“about a mile and a quarter up Maiden Lane, Battle +Bridge,” in the close vicinity of the Mounds of Dust for +which Mr. Harman was the contractor.</p> +<p><b>The Location of Mr. R. Wilfer</b> and family was in the +northern district of <i>Holloway</i>, beyond Battle Bridge, +divided therefrom by “a tract of suburban Sahara, where +tiles and bricks were burnt, bones were boiled, carpets were +beat, rubbish was shot, dogs were fought, and dust was heaped by +contractors.”</p> +<p><b>The Establishment of Mr. Venus</b> was in +<i>Clerkenwell</i>, among</p> +<blockquote><p>“The poorer shops of small retail traders in +commodities to eat and drink and keep folks warm, and of Italian +frame-makers, and of barbers, and of brokers, and of dealers in +dogs and singing-birds. From these, in a narrow and a dirty +street devoted to such callings, Mr. Wegg selects one dark +shop-window with a tallow candle dimly burning in it, surrounded +by a muddle of objects vaguely resembling pieces <a +name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>of leather +and dry stick, but among which nothing is resolvable into +anything distinct, save the candle itself in its old tin +candlestick, and two preserved frogs fighting a small-sword +duel.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h3>THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD.</h3> +<p>In the first chapter of the tale we are introduced to +“the meanest and closest of small rooms,” where, +“through the ragged window-curtain, the light of early day +steals in from a miserable court.” A man</p> +<blockquote><p>“Lies dressed, across a large unseemly bed, +upon a bedstead that has indeed given way under the weight upon +it. Lying, also dressed, and also across the bed, not +longwise, are a Chinaman, a Lascar, and a haggard woman. +The two first are in a sleep or stupor; the last is blowing at a +kind of pipe, to kindle it.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This <b>Opium Smokers’ Den</b> had its location in an +eastern district of London, probably the <i>Shadwell</i> +neighbourhood of the <span class="smcap">London Docks</span>, but +no precise indication of its whereabouts is given in the +tale. We read of John Jasper starting from his hotel in +<i>Falcon Square</i>: “Eastward, and still eastward, +through the stale streets, he takes his way, until he reaches his +destination—a miserable court, specially miserable among +many such.”</p> +<h3>THE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM</h3> +<p>is readily attainable from <i>Charing Cross</i> (or any other) +station of the <i>District Metropolitan Railway</i>. +Entrance in <i>Cromwell Road</i>, five minutes’ walk, on +the north side, from South Kensington Station.</p> +<p><b>The Forster Collection</b>—on the first +floor—in this museum contains several of the earlier <span +class="smcap">Letters</span> written by Dickens to Forster, and +the pen-and-ink sketch by <i>Maclise</i>, representing the +“Apotheosis of ‘Grip,’” the celebrated +Raven, who departed this life at No. 1 Devonshire Terrace, March +12th, 1841. There are also here exhibited <b>The +Manuscripts</b> of the principal <span class="smcap">Works of +Dickens</span>, together with a <i>Proof Copy</i> of “David +Copperfield,” showing the corrections of the Author. +Most of these lie <a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +165</span>opened, each at its first page; and it is interesting +to observe the careful interlineations and alterations with which +the various original copies were amended. In the case of +“The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” the sorrowful memento +of its final page is exposed to view, as being the last sheet +written by the “vanished hand” of our much loved and +faithful friend,</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/sig.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Charles Dickens Signature" +title= +"Charles Dickens Signature" +src="images/sig.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +167</span>INDEX</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Accademy</span>, Turveydrop’s, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>Adam Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>Adelphi Arches, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>— Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>Albany, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Aldgate High Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>— Pump, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Almshouses, Watts’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Apartments of Captain Cuttle, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>— Major Bagstock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>— Miss Tox, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>— Mrs. Gamp, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +<p>— Richard Carstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span></p> +<p>— The Kenwigses, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>— Tom Pinch, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Apotheosis of “Grip,” <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Artful Dodger at Court, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>— Dodger at Work, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +<p>Astley’s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Bagnet</span>, Mr., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Bailey, Junior, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Bank, Child’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>— of England, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>— Tellson’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Bardell v. Pickwick, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Bardell’s House, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +<p>Barley, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Barnacle, Mr. Tite, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +<p>Barnard’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +<p>Barnett’s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>Bedfordbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +<p>Bell Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Belle Sauvage Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>Bethlehem Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Bevis Marks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span> <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Billickin, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p>Bishop’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Black Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Bleeding Hart Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Blinder, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Bloomsbury Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span></p> +<p>“Blue Boar,” The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Blunderstone Rookery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>Blundeston, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>Boarding House, Todgers’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Bob Sawyer’s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span></p> +<p>Boffin, House of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Boffin’s Bower, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Boot Tavern, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>Borough, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Bouverie Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Bow Street Police Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>Bradbury & Evans, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Bradley Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Bream’s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Broad Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>Brook Street, Grosvenor Sq, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>Brownlow’s Residence, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>Buckhurst Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +<p>Buckingham Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>Buffet, Spiers and Pond’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<p>Bull and Anchor Tavern, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Bull Inn Yard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<p>Burial Ground, Nemo’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>Butler’s Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<h3>CANTERBURY</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Augustinian</span> Monastery, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Burgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Butcher, The obnoxious, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +<p>Canterbury, City of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>Castle Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>Christchurch Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Doctor Strong, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Faversham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>Fleur de Lys Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +<p>George and Dragon Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +<p>Home of Agnes, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Mr. Larkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +<p>King’s School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Lady’s Green, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +168</span>Larkins, The eldest Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +<p>London Coach Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +<p>London, Chatham & Dover Station <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page103">103</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +<p>Margaret Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +<p>Markleham, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Mercery Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +<p>Micawbers, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>Monastery Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>North Lane (No. 65), <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Palace Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Queen’s Head Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>Residence of Dr. Strong, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>— Mr. Wickfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Uriah Heep, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>St. Alphege, Church of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>— Dunstan Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Margaret’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +<p>Sittingbourne, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>Teynsham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>Watling Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Carlisle</span> House, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Carnaby Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>Carstone’s Apartments, Richard, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>Casby, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +<p>Castle, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Chadband, Rev. Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Chambers of Copperfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>— Mr. Fledgby, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>— Mr. Grewgious, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +<p>— Mr. Tartar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +<p>— John Westlock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<p>Chandos Street (No. 3), <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +<p>Chapman & Hall, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +<p>Charing Cross Terminus, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span> +</p> +<p>Charles Darnay’s Trial, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p><span class="smcap">Chatham</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +<p>— Clover Lane Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>— Fort Pitt, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>— Military Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>— Providence Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>— Railway Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +<p>— Recreation Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>— Rome Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +<p>— The Brook, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>Cheeryble Bros., Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +<p>Chester, Edward, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>— Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Chevy Slyme, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Chichester Rents, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Chicksey, Veneering, & Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Chigwell, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>— Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>— King’s Head, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Children’s Hospital, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>Child’s Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Chivery’s Shop, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<p>Christchurch, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Church, Dulwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +<p>— Emmanuel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Alphege, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Dunstan’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>— St. George’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>— St. John the Evangelist’s, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Mary-le-Bow, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Pancras in the Fields, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>Chuzzlewit & Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Clare Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +<p>Claridge’s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>Clennam’s House, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +<p>Clerkenwell Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +<p>Clifford’s Inn Passage, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Cloisterham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>Coavinses’ Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Cobham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Cook’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Cooling Village, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Copperfield’s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>Cornhill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Court of Chancery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Covent Garden Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>Craven Street (No. 39), <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>Creakle’s Establishment, Mr., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +<p>Crisparkle, Rev. S., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Cross Keys Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Crown Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>Crozier Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Curiosity Shop, The Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>Cursitor Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><i>Daily News</i> Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Dean’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Dedlock Mansion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Devonshire House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>— Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p>Dickens, Amateur Acting of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>— Death of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>— Dining-House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +169</span>Dickens at Lamert’s Factory, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>— Letters of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>— Manuscripts of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>— Memorial Tablet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>— Readings of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>— Residences of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— at School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>— Tomb of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +<p>Dickens’s Establishment, Mrs., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +<p>Doctor Slammer, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Doctors’ Commons, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Dodson & Fogg, Messrs , <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Dolls’ Dressmaker, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>Dombey & Son’s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Dombey’s Residence, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Dorking, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>— “Marquis of Granby”, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +<p>— “White Horse,” <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +<p>— Rev. Mr. Stiggins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +<p>— ,, ,, Downfall of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>Doubledick, Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Doughty Street (No. 48), <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h3>DOVER</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Copperfield’s</span> Resting Place, +<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Dover Priory, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span>-<span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Dover, Town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +<p>King’s Head Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Market Place Corner, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Miss Manetty and Mr. Lorry, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Priory Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Residence of Miss Trotwood, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Stanley Mount, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Staplehurst Disaster, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>Doyce & Clennam’s Factory, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Dulwich Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +<p>Durdles, A night with, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Durdles’s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Edwin</span> Drood and Rosa, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Ely Place, Holborn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Emigration of Peggotty, &c., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Emmanuel Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +<p>Escort in London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>Establishment of Mr. Waterbrook, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Eugene Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Exchequer Coffee House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>Execution of the Mannings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Fagin’s</span> House, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +<p>Falcon Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>Falstaff Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>Fang, Mr. J. P., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Feast of the Three Hobgoblins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Feenix Town House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>Field Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Finches of the Grove, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>First Avenue Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>— Readings, Dickens’s, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>Fish Street Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Fleet Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>— Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Flite, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Folly Ditch, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Forest House, Chigwell, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<p>Forge, Joe Gargery’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>Forster Collection, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Forster’s House, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +<p>Foundling Hospital, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +<p>Fountain Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Fox-under-the-Hill, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span></p> +<p>Freeman’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Funeral of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +<p>Furnival’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Gadshill</span> Place, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>Gaffer Hexam’s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Gamp, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +<p>Garden Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Gargery’s Forge, Joe, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Gate of the Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>General Agency Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +<p>George and Vulture Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>George the IVth, The Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>George Yard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>George’s Shooting-Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Giles, Rev. William, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>Golden Cross Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +<p>— Key, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +<p>Goldsmith’s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Gordon, Lord George, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>— Riots, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +<p>Goswell Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +<p>Gower Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p>Gravesend, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Gray’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>Great +Ormond Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>— Yarmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +<p>— Angel Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>— Coaches, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>— Home of Little Emily, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span></p> +<p>— Star Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>— Storm at, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +<p>Green Dragon Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Greenwich Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Gridley’s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Grip, The Raven, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>— Apotheosis of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Grocers’ Hall Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Guild of Literature and Art, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Guildhall, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Guppy, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Guppy’s Address, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>— Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Hampstead</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +<p>Hanging Sword Alley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Harley Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<p>Hatchett’s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Hatton Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>Hawdon, Capt., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h3>HENLEY</h3> +<p>A <span class="smcap">Cry</span> for Help, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Anchor Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Aston, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Attack by Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Betty Higden, Death of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>— Burial of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Death of Riderhood and Headstone, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Eastern Tow Path, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Eugene Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Fawley Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Greenlands, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Harmon’s Reflections, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +<p>Henley Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Hurley Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Kensal Green Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +<p>Lizzie Hexam, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Lock House, Hurley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Marriage of Eugene and Lizzie, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Marsh Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>— Mill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Medmenham Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Micawber’s Quotation, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +<p>Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Railway Station, Henley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Red Lion Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +<p>— Lawn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Rescue of Eugene, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Rogue Riderhood, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Stoke Pogis Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +<p>Tow Path, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Waterloo Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>Her Majesty’s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Hexam’s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Holborn Restaurant, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +<p>— Viaduct, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +<p>Hope Brothers, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>Horndean, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>Horse and Groom, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +<p>— Guards, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Horsemonger Lane Gaol, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<p>Horseshoe Restaurant, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Hospital, Bethlehem, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>— Children’s, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>— Foundling, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +<p>Hotel, Adelphi, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>— Barnett’s Private, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>— Cecil, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>— Claridge’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>— Falcon, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>— First Avenue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>— Golden Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +<p>— Hatchett’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>— Hummums, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>— Tavistock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>— Woods’, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>House of Sampson Brass, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>— Sol Gills, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p><i>Household Words Office</i>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>Hugh, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Hungerford Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>— Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Ipswich</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<p>— Residence of Mr. Nupkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page134">134</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Clement’s Church, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>— White Horse Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Jacob’s</span> Island, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Jaggers, Offices of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>— Residence of Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Jarndyce, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Jarndyce v. Jarndyce, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +171</span>Jellyby’s Residence, Mrs., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Jenny Wren, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Jerry Cruncher’s Apartments, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>— Cruncher’s Employment, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Jingle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page2">2</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page134">134</a></span></p> +<p>Job Trotter, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>John Jasper, Apartments of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +<p>Johnny’s Will, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +<p>Julius Handford, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Kenge</span> & Carboy’s Offices, +<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Kenwigs Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>King’s Bench Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>“King’s Head,” Chigwell, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>King’s Head Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Kingsgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +<p>Knag, Mr. and Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +<p>Krook’s Warehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Laing</span>, Mr. J. P., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Lambeth Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>— Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>Lamert’s Blacking Factory, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>— Warehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>Langdale’s Distillery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Lant Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span></p> +<p>Leadenhall Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>Leather Bottle Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Letters of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Lewsome’s Illness, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Lightwood’s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Lincoln’s Inn Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>— Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +<p>— Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>— Old Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Lirriper’s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>Little Britain, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>London Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>— Coffee Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>— Stereoscopic Company, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>— Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +<p>Lucretia Tox, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Macstinger</span>, Mrs., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>Magpie and Stump, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>Manette, Doctor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Mansfield, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<p>Mansion House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Mantalini, Madame, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Manuscripts of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Mark Tapley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Market, Covent Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>— Farringdon, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>— Fleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>— Hungerford, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>Marshall Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>Marshalsea Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>— Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Martha’s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>— Suicidal attempt, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>Martin Chuzzlewit, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>“Maypole Inn,” The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Memorial Hall, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Merdle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<p>Micawber, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +<p>Mill Bank Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Mincing Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Minor Canon Corner, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Minories, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Monk’s Vineyard, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Mowcher, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Nadgett</span>, Mr., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Nancy and Rose Maylie, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Neckett’s Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Nemo’s Burial, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>— Lodging, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Newgate Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>— Burning of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>Newman Noggs, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>Newman’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Nickleby’s Office, Ralph, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +<p>Noah Claypole, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Norie & Wilson, Messrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>Nuns’ House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Obelisk</span>, St. George’s, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Office of Chicksey & Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>— Daily News, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>— Dodson & Fogg, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>— Dombey & Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>— Jaggers, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>— Kenge & Carboy, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>— Lightwood & Wrayburn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>— Perker, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>— Pubsey & Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>— Ralph Nickleby, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +<p>— Spenlow & Jorkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Old Bailey, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>— Curiosity Shop, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>— Gruff-and-Glum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>— Palace Yard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Old +Ship Tavern, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, Lincoln’s Inn, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Olde Cheshire Cheese, Ye, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Oliver Twist at Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>— enlightened, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +<p>— entering London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>Opium Smokers’ Den, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Osborn’s Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +<p>“Our House,” <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Paper</span> Buildings, Temple, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Park, St. James’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Parliament Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>Peabody’s Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +<p>Pecksniff’s Downfall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Peggotty, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>— House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span></p> +<p>Perker’s Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Piccadilly, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Pickwick’s Discovery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>— Imprisonment, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>— Retirement, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +<p>— Travels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page2">2</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>— Trial, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Pip’s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>P. J. T., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +<p>Plornish’s Home, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Podsnaps, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>Poetical Tribute, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +<p>Police Court, Bow Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>— Hatton Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>Portsmouth, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>— Birthplace of Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>— Cambridge Barracks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Portugal Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +<p>Post Office, Charing Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +<p>— General, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>Poultry, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Princess Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>Prison, The Fleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>— King’s Bench, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>— Marshalsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Procter, Miss Adelaide, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>Pubsey & Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>Pump Court, Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Quartermaine’s</span> Ship Tavern, +<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Queen Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +<p>Quilp’s House, 33</p> +<p>— Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Railway</span> Street, Chatham, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +<p>Red Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Residence of Brownlow, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +<p>— Dickens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— Dombey, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>— Gordon, Lord G., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>— Jellyby, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>— La Creevy, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span></p> +<p>— Lammles, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>— Mansfield, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span></p> +<p>— Merdle, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<p>— Micawber, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +<p>— Nickleby, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +<p>— Pickwick, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +<p>— Snagsby, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>— Tulkinghorn, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +<p>— Veneerings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Restaurant, Epitaux’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +<p>Richard Doubledick, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p><span class="smcap">Rochester</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>— Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>— Bull Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>— Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>— College Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +<p>— Crown Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>— Crypts, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>— Eastgate House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +<p>— Esplanade, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>— Minor Canon Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>— Restoration Mouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>— St. Nicholas Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +<p>— Sapsea’s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>— The Vines, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— Watts’s Charity, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Rogue Riderhood, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Rokesmith Wedding, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Roman Bath, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +<p>Rosa Budd, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +<p>Rowland & Son, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Rudge, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Rules of King’s Bench, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Sackville</span> Street, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Saffron Hill, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>— Little, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>St. Alphege Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>— Clement Danes, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>— Dunstan’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>— George’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>— ,, Obelisk, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>— James’s Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>— ,, Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>St. +John the Evangelist’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>— Martin’s Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>— Martin’s-le-Grand, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>— Mary Axe, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>— Mary-le-Bow Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>— Pancras in the Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>— Paul’s Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Sackville Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Salem House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +<p>Sampson Brass, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Sam’s Valentine, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Sapsea, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>Saracen’s Head, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>Satis House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>Sawyer’s Lodging, Bob, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span></p> +<p>Seven Poor Travellers, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>“Six Jolly Fellowship Porters The,” <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Skimpole Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Slammer, Doctor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Smallweed Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Smithfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>Snagsby’s Residence, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Snevellicci, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>Snow Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +<p>Sole Street Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Sol’s Arms, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Somerleyton Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>Southampton Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p>South Kensington Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>South Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Southwark Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>Spaniards’ Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +<p>Spa Road Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Spenlow & Jorkins, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Spiers & Pond’s Buffet, Messrs, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page42">42</a></span></p> +<p>Stagg’s Cellar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>— Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Staple Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +<p>Steerforth, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +<p>Strong’s House, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Stryver’s Chambers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Surrey Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Swan and Sugar Loaf, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Sweedlepipes, House of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +<p>Swiss Châlet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>Sydney Carton, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Symond’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Tattycoram</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>Tavern, Black Lion, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Tavern, Boot, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>— Bull and Anchor, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>— Coffee, London, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— Green Dragon, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>— London, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>— Old George IVth, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>— Old Ship, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>— Quartermaine’s Ship, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>— “Six Jolly Fellowship Porters”, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Tavistock Hotel, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>— House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +<p>Tellson’s Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Temple Bar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>— Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>— Fountain, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>— Garden Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>— Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>— Paper Buildings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>— Pump Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Thames Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +<p>Thavies Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Theatre, Astley’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>— Covent Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +<p>— Her Majesty’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>— Rochester, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>— Surrey, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Three Cripples, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Tigg, Montague, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Toby Veck, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Todger’s Boarding House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Tom All-Alone’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +<p>Tom Pinch’s Apartments, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Toodles, Polly, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>Took’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Toots’s Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Tox, Miss Lucretia, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +<p>Traddles, Home of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Traddles’s Lodgings, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Travellers, Seven Poor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Trial of Charles Darnay, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>Trinity House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>Tulkinghorn’s Residence, Mr., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +<p>Tupman’s Retreat, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Turveydrop’s Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>Twemlow, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Twinkleton, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Varden</span> Family, The, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Veneering Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Venus, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span><span +class="smcap">Walter</span> Wilding, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +<p>Warren, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<p>Waterbrook’s Establishment, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Watts, Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Wedding of Mr. Snodgrass, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Welbeck Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>Weller, Sam, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +<p>— Tony, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>Weller’s Rendezvous, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +<p>Wellington Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, Strand, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +<p>Wemmick’s Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>— Wedding, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +<p>Westminster Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +<p>White Hart Inn, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>White Horse Cellars, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Wigmore Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Wilfer Family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p> — Residence of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Willet, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +<p>Wimpole Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Wititterly, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +<p>Wooden Midshipman, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span>–71</p> +<p>Wood Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Woods’ Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth</span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +<p>Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 38652-h.htm or 38652-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/6/5/38652 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +</pre></body> +</html> |