diff options
Diffstat (limited to '38652-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 38652-0.txt | 8573 |
1 files changed, 8573 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/38652-0.txt b/38652-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..828c371 --- /dev/null +++ b/38652-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8573 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Rambles in Dickens' Land, by Robert Allbut, +Illustrated by Helen M. James + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Rambles in Dickens' Land + + +Author: Robert Allbut + + + +Release Date: January 23, 2012 [eBook #38652] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND*** + + +This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler. + + [Picture: Henley on Thames] + + + + + + RAMBLES IN + DICKENS’ LAND + + + BY ROBERT ALLBUT + + WITH INTRODUCTION BY + GERALD BRENAN + AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY + HELEN M. JAMES + + [Picture: Logo] + + LONDON + S. T. FREEMANTLE + 217 PICCADILLY + 1899 + + + + +NOTICE + + +_The several Extracts from the Works of Dickens contained in this +Manual_, _are used for the better illustration of the text_, _by kind +permission of Messrs._ CHAPMAN & HALL. + + * * * * * + + Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON and Co. + At the Ballantyne Press + + + + +CONTENTS + + PAGE +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii +INTRODUCTION ix +AUTHOR’S PREFACE xxv + RAMBLE I +CHARING CROSS TO LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS 1 + RAMBLE II +LINCOLN’S INN TO THE MANSION HOUSE 15 + RAMBLE III +CHARING CROSS TO THAVIES INN, HOLBORN CIRCUS 31 + RAMBLE IV +HOLBORN CIRCUS TO TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD 43 + RAMBLE V +BANK OF ENGLAND TO HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE 67 + RAMBLE VI +EXCURSION TO CHATHAM, ROCHESTER AND GADSHILL 82 + RAMBLE VII +EXCURSION TO CANTERBURY AND DOVER 103 + RAMBLE VIII +EXCURSION TO HENLEY-ON-THAMES 116 + RAMBLE IX +BY GREAT EASTERN ROUTE FROM LONDON TO YARMOUTH 128 + RAMBLE X +LONDON TO DORKING AND PORTSMOUTH 141 +APPENDIX 150 +INDEX 167 + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + +HENLEY-ON-THAMES _Frontispiece_ + _To face page_ +OLD ROMAN BATH 10 +THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP 12 +FOUNTAIN COURT, TEMPLE 21 +DOORWAY IN STAPLE INN 48 +THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL 53 +TAVISTOCK HOUSE 56 +THE DRAWING-ROOM, DEVONSHIRE HOUSE 61 +THE “LEATHER BOTTLE,” COBHAM 84 +EASTGATE HOUSE, ROCHESTER 89 +RESTORATION HOUSE, ROCHESTER 90 +GADSHILL PLACE 99 +THE HOME OF AGNES 112 +THE “KING’S HEAD,” CHIGWELL 129 +THE “GREAT WHITE HORSE,” IPSWICH 132 +DICKENS’ BIRTHPLACE 145 +“THE SPANIARDS,” HAMPSTEAD HEATH 152 + +INTRODUCTION + + +It is one of the magic legacies left by the great romancers, that the +scenes and characters which they described should possess for most of us +an air of reality, so convincing as sometimes to put staid history to the +blush. The novelist’s ideals become actual to the popular mind; while +commonplace truth hides itself among its dry-as-dust records, until some +curious antiquary or insistent pedant drags it forth to make a nine days’ +wonder. We sigh over “Juliet’s Tomb” in spite of the precisians, sup in +the inn kitchen at Pennaflor with Gil Blas at our elbow, and shudder +through the small hours outside the haunted House of the Black Cat in +Quaker Philadelphia. At Tarascon they show you Tartarin’s oriental +garden; and you must hide the irrepressible smile, for Tartarin is +painfully real to these good cap-shooters. The other day an illustrated +magazine published pictures of Alexander Selkirk’s birthplace, and +labelled them “The Home of Robinson Crusoe.” The editor who chose that +caption was still under the spell of Defoe. To him, as to the vast +majority, Crusoe the imaginary seemed vividly real, while the +flesh-and-blood Selkirk was but a name. And if you have that catholic +sympathy which is the true test of the perfect lover of romance, read +“David Copperfield” once again, and then, by way of experiment, spend an +afternoon in Canterbury. You will find yourself expecting at one moment +to see Mr. Micawber step jauntily out of the Queen’s Head Inn, at another +to catch a glimpse of the red-haired Heep slinking along North Lane to +his “’umble dwelling.” You will probably meet a dozen buxom “eldest Miss +Larkinses,” and obnoxious butcher-boys—perhaps even a sweet Agnes +Wickfield, or a Miss Betsy Trotwood driving in from Dover. And, above +all, you will certainly enjoy yourself, and thank your gods for Charles +Dickens. + +Mr. Would-be Wiseman may affect to sneer at our pilgrimages to this and +other places connected with the imaginary names of fiction; but he must +recognise the far-reaching influence for good exercised by symbols and +associations over the human mind. The sight of a loved home after many +years—the flutter of one’s country’s flag in foreign lands—these things +touch keenly our better nature. In a like manner is the thoughtful man +impressed when he treads a pathway hallowed by the writings of some +favourite poet or romancer. The moral lesson which the author intended +to convey, his insight into character or loving eye for Nature’s +beauties, and many exquisite passages from his books appeal to us all the +more, when we recall them in the very rooms where they were written—among +the gloomy streets or breezy hills which he has filled with his +inventions. Says Washington Irving in his essay on Stratford: “I could +not but reflect on the singular gift of the poet; to be able thus to +spread the magic of his mind over the very face of Nature; to give to +things and places a charm and character not their own, and to turn this +‘working-day’ world into a perfect fairyland. He is indeed the true +enchanter, whose spell operates, not upon the senses, but upon the +imagination and the heart. Under the wizard influence of Shakespeare I +had been walking all day in a complete delusion. . . . I had been +surrounded with fancied beings; with mere airy nothings conjured up by +poetic power; yet which, to me, had all the charm of reality. I had +heard Jaques soliloquise beneath his oak; had beheld the fair Rosalind +and her companion adventuring through the woodlands; and, above all, had +been once more present in spirit with fat Jack Falstaff and his +contemporaries, from the august Justice Shallow down to the gentle Master +Slender and the sweet Anne Page. Ten thousand honours and blessings on +the bard who has thus gilded the dull realities of life with innocent +illusions.” Wherefore, in spite of the sneers of Master Would-be +Wiseman, let us continue to make these pleasant pilgrimages; not alone +for our own satisfaction and betterment, but also in memory of those who +have opened before us so many delectable lands of fancy, and given us so +many agreeable companions of the road. + +This volume, then, is the pilgrim’s guide to Dickens’ Land—the loving +topography of that fertile and very populous region. No far away foreign +country is Dickens’ Land. It lies at our doors; we may explore it when +we choose, with never a passport to purchase nor a Custom House to fear. +The sojourner in London can scarce look from his windows without +beholding scores of its interesting places. To parody that passage which +describes Mr. Pickwick’s outlook into Goswell Street—Dickens’ Land is at +our feet; Dickens’ Land is on our right hand as far as the eye can reach; +Dickens’ Land extends on our left, and the opposite side of Dickens’ Land +is over the way. Nor do the bounds of this genial territory confine +themselves to London alone. Outlying portions spread north and south, +east and west, over England. There is even, as Sala showed, a Dickens’ +quarter in Paris; and we have unexpectedly encountered small colonies of +Dickens’ Land across the wide Atlantic. But the best of it lies close to +the great heart of the world—in London, or in the counties thereabout; +and if “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” succeeds in guiding its readers with +pleasure and profit over this storied ground, it will have faithfully +fulfilled its mission. + +Trouble has not been spared to make this topography accurate as well as +entertaining. Mr. Weller the younger, with all his “extensive and +peculiar” knowledge of London—Mr. Weller the elder and his brothers of +the whip, with _their_ knowledge of post-roads and coaching inns, could +hardly have identified the various localities more clearly than the +compiler has done. Wherever doubts and disputes arise—as in regard to +the site of the “Old Curiosity Shop”—all sides of the case are given, and +the reader is asked to sum up the arguments and judge for himself. In +nearly every instance a quotation is offered from the author, by means of +which the pilgrim is enabled to refresh his memory and bring his own +recollections of the book to bear upon the question of the site. These +quotations will be found to act admirably as aids to memory, and to +obviate the necessity of carrying a whole library of Dickens about on +one’s rambles. Take, for example, the excerpts from “David Copperfield” +in connection with the visit to Dover. The facetious answers of the +boatmen to David when, sitting ragged and forlorn in the Dover Market +Place, he inquires for his aunt’s house, bring back at a single touch the +whole sad story of the boy’s tramp from London to the coast. It does not +require much imagination to picture him sitting there “on the step of an +empty shop,” with his weary, pinched face and his “dusty sunburnt, +half-clothed figure,” while the sea-faring folk (lineal forbears of those +who frequent the place to-day) made mock of him with their clumsy japes, +until at length happened by the friendly fly-driver, who showed him how +to reach the residence of the old lady who “carries a bag—bag with a good +deal of room in it—is gruffish, and comes down upon you, sharp.” It is +easy, too, with the help of our guide, to follow the shivering child +along the cliffs to Miss Trotwood’s—nay, to identify the “very neat +little cottage, with cheerful bow-windows,” where that good soul looked +after Mr. Dick, and defended her “immaculate grass-plot” against +marauding donkeys. It is this present writer’s privilege to know a +charming elderly lady who boasts of Dover as her birthplace, and who, +when she has exhausted the other lions of that town, is accustomed to +close her remarks with the statement that she “lived for years within a +stone’s-throw of Miss Betsy Trotwood’s cottage.” Occasionally the +Superior Person (who, alas, is rarely absent nowadays!) points out with a +smile of tolerance that neither Miss Trotwood nor yet her house ever +existed save in the novelist’s brain. Whereupon this charming old lady +shakes her finger testily at the transgressor, and exclaims, “It is quite +evident that you have never lived in Dover. Miss Betsy Trotwood a myth, +indeed! Let me tell you that my own mother knew the dear woman well—yes, +and that delightful Mr. Dick too; and she remembered seeing Mr. Dickens +drive up in a fly from the railway station to visit them. Of course +their names were not ‘Trotwood’ and ‘Dick’ at all; it would never have +done for Mr. Dickens to put them in his book under the real names, +particularly as Mr. Dick was related to many good families in that part +of Kent. I have even a dim recollection of seeing Miss Trotwood being +wheeled about in a bath-chair when I was a very little girl and she a +very old woman. Myth, indeed! Why, there are old men in Dover now who +were warned off the grass-plot by David Copperfield’s aunt when they were +donkey-boys.” The animation of the speaker shows that she believes +everything she says. Perhaps a lady possessing the characteristics of +Miss Betsy did once upon a time inhabit the cottage in Dover. Perhaps +there was a real Mr. Dick. Otherwise these recollections are but another +example of that hypnotism exercised over posterity by the great +romancers, to which allusion has already been made. + +Again, the many references and the quotations made from several of +Dickens’ works, illustrative of the Temple and the Lincoln’s Inn +quarter—(pages 2 to 25 in the ensuing “Rambles”)—are certain to be +appreciated by the Rambler. With their assistance he can summon back to +his memory the tender love story of Ruth Pinch, and so dream away a happy +hour in peaceful Fountain Court; follow in fancy Maypole Hugh and the +illustrious Captain Sim Tappertit as they ascended the stairs to Sir John +Chester’s chambers in Paper Buildings; stroll thoughtfully along King’s +Bench Walk with the spirit of Sidney Carton; and, in the purlieus of +Chancery Lane, review the legal abuses of the past—(perhaps even some of +those that survive to-day)—reflect upon “Jarndyce and Jarndyce,” or upon +the banished sponging-houses of this district, and once more admit that +Dickens the great novelist was also Dickens the great reformer. + +An important feature of “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” will be found in the +exhaustive references to Dickens’ own haunts and homes, and the haunts +and homes of many of his relatives and friends. Naturally, these are in +numerous cases intimately bound up with the creations of his novels, for +Dickens did not “write out of an inkwell,” but looked for inspiration to +real life and real scenes. At Portsmouth our volume guides you to the +house where he was born, and to the old church register wherein the +christening is entered of—(how strangely the full name sounds!)—“Charles +John Huffham Dickens.” But the same venerable seaport is thronged with +memories of Nicholas Nickleby and his player-friends, Miss Snevellicci, +the Crummles family, poor Smike and the rest. It is interesting to +remember that an American writer once suggested the possibility that +Dickens had obtained Nickleby’s experiences as an actor from personal +adventures with a travelling “troupe” during his youth. This is not +impossible, although Forster makes no mention of such an adventure; the +early years of Dickens are by no means fully accounted for, and it is +certain that the stage had always a great fascination for him. + +Back of old Hungerford Stairs, behind what is now Charing Cross Station, +you may visit the spot where the two boys—the real and the +imaginary—Charles Dickens and David Copperfield spent so many hours while +working for a scant pittance in that “crazy old house with a wharf of its +own abutting on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when it +was out, and literally overrun with rats.” Gadshill, where Dickens lived +and died, is on the very borders of historic Rochester, teeming with +reminders of “Edwin Drood,” not to say of the genial Pickwick and his +companions. Of Furnival’s Inn where “Pickwick” was written, and where +its author spent the first months of his married life, only the site +remains; but these “Rambles” will help you to find all, or nearly all, of +his other homes, even to that last home of all—the grave in Westminster +Abbey, in which he was laid on the 14th of June 1870. His friends’ +houses too, and the scores of spots noteworthy by reason of association +with him personally, you will be given an opportunity of visiting if you +follow this careful _cicerone_. At No. 58 Lincoln’s Inn Fields still +stands Forster’s house, where, in 1844, Dickens read “The Chimes” to +Carlyle, Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and others, and which is also utilised +in “Bleak House” to supply a model for the dwelling-place of Mr. +Tulkinghorn. The office of _Household Words_, founded by Dickens, is now +part of the Gaiety Theatre. The old taverns about Hampstead, whither he +loved to resort for a friendly flagon “and a red-hot chop,” are much as +they were in the novelist’s day, save in one regrettable instance where +the proprietor has preferred, in order to cater to an unappreciative +class, to disfigure his inn into a mere modern public-house of the +conventional type, such that Dickens, who loved the place when it was +old-fashioned and comfortable, would utterly disown now. The ancient +“Spaniards,” however, is much the same as it was in the days of the +Gordon riots, when the then host of the quaint little tavern saved Lord +Mansfield’s country house at Caen Wood by allowing the rioters to +devastate his cellars, while he privily sent for the Guards. The +reckless waste of liquor on that occasion is said to have suggested to +Dickens the scene in “Barnaby Rudge,” where John Willet watches the sack +of his beloved “Maypole” and sees his cellars drained of their best, as +he lies bound and helpless in the bar. That the novelist frequently +visited the “Spaniards,” the old records of the house can show; and in +“Pickwick” he makes it the scene of a memorable tea-party, attended by +Mrs. Bardell, just before those “sharp practitioners,” Dodson and Fogg, +caused the injured lady’s arrest. The “Bull and Bush,” another old +Hampstead inn much frequented of Dickens, also exists unharmed by the +“renovator.” And while we are upon the subject of inns known to our +author, let us not forget the “Maypole” itself, here shown to be the +“King’s Head” at Chigwell. Dickens was in ecstasies over the “King’s +Head” and the surrounding neighbourhood, when a chance visit disclosed to +him their attractions; and the letters which he wrote to his friends at +this period are full of Chigwell and its picturesque hostelry. Little +wonder, therefore, that he afterwards made them famous in “Barnaby +Rudge.” The pilgrim will not be disappointed in the “King’s Head” of +to-day, if he accepts the good advice offered by the compiler of these +“Rambles,” _i.e._ to take his ideal of the place from Dickens’ own +description rather than from the elaborate drawing of Cattermole. He may +perhaps notice that in “Barnaby Rudge” no hint is conveyed of the close +proximity of Chigwell church, which is simply across the road. Doubtless +this is a sign of the novelist’s artistic sense. To have his “Maypole” +windows looking directly into the graveyard would have detracted from +that air of warmth and conviviality with which he wished to endow his +rare old inn. In most other respects the description exactly fits the +“King’s Head” as it must have been in “No Popery” times—as it is with +little alteration to-day. The trim green sward at the rear—once +evidently the bowling-green—is a famous resting-place in summer; and in +one of the small arbours Dickens is said to have written during his stay +here. The village, although showing signs of the approach of that fell +barbarian the Essex builder, is still sufficiently picturesque and +old-world to keep one’s illusions alive. There is a grammar school at +Chigwell, the boys of which are learned in neighbouring Dickens’ lore. +If you are credulous—as it becomes a pilgrim to be—these grammarians will +show you John Willet’s tomb in the churchyard, and Dolly Varden’s path +with the real Warren, on the skirts of Hainault Forest, at the farther +end of it. Both in Chigwell and Chigwell Row some village worthies are +still to be met with who have conversed with Charles Dickens and the +kindred spirits that came hither in his company. At the “King’s Head,” +if Mr. Willet’s successor be agreeable, one may lunch or sup in the +Dickens’ Room, also held to have been the chamber in which Mr. Haredale +and the elder Chester held their memorable interview. + +Some other inns to which Dickens is known to have resorted are: the +“Bull” at Rochester, the “Leather Bottle” at Cobham, and the “Great White +Horse” at Ipswich—all with Pickwickian associations; the “Old Cheshire +Cheese” in Fleet Street, and the “George and Dragon” at Canterbury. To +many minor taverns in London he was also a frequent visitor, for he +sought his characters in the market-place rather than in the study. His +signature, with the familiar flourish underneath, is treasured in hotel +registers not a few, and it is esteemed a high honour to be permitted to +slumber in the “Dickens’ Room.” + +To all and each of these places “Rambles in Dickens’ Land” leads the way, +if the reader chooses to follow. A notable advantage of these rambles is +the ease with which they may be undertaken. An ordinary healthy man or +woman may set forth without apprehension in the author’s footsteps from +the beginning to the end of any particular journey which he describes, +and even the invalid may saunter through a “Ramble” without fatigue. +Conveyances are only needed to bring the pilgrim to the starting-point of +the voyage, and in several instances even these aids to locomotion may be +dispensed with altogether when the sightseer is one after Dickens’ own +heart—a sturdy pedestrian. By pursuing the routes indicated, there is no +reason why a Grand Tour of Dickens’ Land should not be made by easy +stages and at slight cost. Or the pilgrim may pick out some particular +trip, when leisure and chance carry him in that direction. The volume is +in truth a serviceable guide-book, leading its clients by the best ways, +and even informing them where, when sight-seeing is over, a place may be +found for rest, refreshment, and reflection. And it is happier than most +guide-books in that it is never called upon to describe the stupid and +uninteresting, which have no existence in Dickens’ Land. + +Into Dickens’ Land, therefore, my masters, an you will and when you will! +The high-roads thither are always open, the lanes and by-paths are free +for us to tread. He that found out this rare world has made it fully +ours. Let us visit our inheritance, or revisit it, if that be the better +word. Let us make real the scenes we have read of and dreamt of—peopling +them with the folk of Dickens, so that familiar faces shall look upon us +from familiar windows, familiar voices greet us as we pass. Shall we +travel abroad in the fashion of the corresponding committee of the +Pickwick Club? Then here is this book, with a wealth of shrewd +information between its covers, ready to be our own particular Samuel +Weller—to wear our livery, whether of sadness or of joy—to point out to +us the sights and the notabilities, to be garrulous when we look for +gossip, and silent when our mood is for silence—to act, in short, as that +useful individual whom we all “rayther want,” “somebody to look arter us +when we goes out a-wisitin’.” + +Where, if you please, shall we “wisit” first? It is hard to choose, +since there is so much to choose from. We may ramble about London town, +where, like Mr. Weller, our guide is “werry much at home.” If so, we are +sure to encounter a host of old cronies. Perhaps we shall see the great +Buzfuz entering court, all in his wig and silk, nodding with lofty +condescension to his struggling brother, Mr. T. Traddles, which latter is +bringing “Sophy and the girls” to set Gray’s Inn a-blooming. Or Tom +Pinch going towards Fountain Court to meet the waiting Ruth. Or David +Copperfield joyously ushering J. Steerforth into his rooms in the +Adelphi. Or Captain Cuttle steering for the sign of the “Wooden +Midshipman,” which he may eventually find (and make a note of) at its new +moorings in the Minories. Or Dick Swiveller, poor soul, loafing to his +dingy lodgings. Or that precious pair, Bob Sawyer and Benjamin Allen, +startling the sullen repose of Lant Street with bacchanalian revelry. + +And, if the London Dickens’ Land palls, doth not this most inviting +country stretch to all points of the compass? Northward goes yonder +well-appointed coach, whereof the driver has just been escorted from a +certain public-house in Portugal Street by a mottle-faced man, in company +with two or three other persons of stout and weather-beaten aspect—the +driver himself being stouter and more weather-beaten than all. Let us +take the box-seat by his side, and lead him on to talk of “shepherds in +wolves’ clothing,” until presently he tools us into Ipswich, pulling up +under the sign of that “rapacious animal” the Great White Horse. In +Ipswich we may catch a glimpse of a mulberry-coloured livery slinking by +St. Clement’s Church, and guess therefrom that one Alfred Jingle is here +at his old game of laying siege to the hearts of susceptible females with +money. Here, too, behind that green gate in Angel Lane, resides the +pretty housemaid soon to become Mrs. Sam Weller. But we must not linger +in Ipswich. Yarmouth lies before us, with its phantom boat-house still +upturned on the waste places towards the sea, with Little Em’ly, and the +Peggottys, and with Mr. Barkis waiting in the Market Place to jog us out +to sleepy “Blunderstone.” + +Back again in London, there is another coach-of-fancy prepared to take us +into Kent, from the yard of the Golden Cross. Four gentlemen—one a +beaming, spectacled person in drab shorts—are outside passengers for +Rochester. And see, here is the ubiquitous Jingle again, clambering to +the roof with all his worldly goods wrapped up in a brown paper parcel. +“Heads—heads—take care of your heads,” he cries, as we rumble under the +old archway; and then, hey! for hopfields and cherry orchards, for +“mouldy old cathedrals” in “Cloisterham” or Canterbury, for jolly Kentish +yeomen and bright-eyed maids of Kent. . . . Who was that wan-faced, +coatless urchin we passed just now in a whirl of chalky dust? His name +is Copperfield, and he is on his way to Dover. And is not that Mr. +Wardle driving his laughing women-folk to the review? And again, yonder +on the brown common, by the Punch and Judy show, there is a grey old man, +pillowing in his loving arms a little blue-eyed girl. These, too, we +know; and our hearts go out to them, for who of us is there that has not— + + “. . . with Nell, in Kentish meadows, + Wandered, and lost his way”? + +Of introduction there is no more to be said. The book itself lies open +before you; and at your own sweet will you may ramble with it, high and +low, through all the land of Dickens. + + G. B. + + + + +PREFACE + + +The great majority of English readers—on both sides of the Atlantic—claim +personal acquaintance with “Samivel” Weller, Mark Tapley, Oliver Twist, +and many more besides: the old companions of our schoolboy days. We +cherish pleasant remembrance of the familiar “green leaves” of Dombey, +David Copperfield, and the rest, as they first afforded us their monthly +quota of interest and enjoyment; and have always maintained intimate +relations with Captain Cuttle, Tom Pinch, Mr. Peggotty, and the more +recent _dramatis personæ_ of the works of Dickens. We sympathise with +Florence, Agnes, and Esther as with sisters, and keep corners of our +hearts sacred to the memory of Little Nell, Paul Dombey, and the +child-wife Dora. + +The creations of “bonnie Prince Charlie” have thus become veritable +“household words”; part and parcel of our home associations, instinct +with personality and life. We never think of them as the airy nothings +of imaginative fiction, but regard them as familiar friends, having “a +local habitation and a name” amongst us; with whose cheerful acquaintance +we could ill afford to part, and who bear us kindly company on the hot +and dusty highway of our daily lives. + +Charles Dickens was essentially a Londoner, always having a fond regard +for the highways and by-ways of this great Metropolis, and confessedly +deriving his inspiration from the varied phases of Town life and Society. +We accordingly find that the main incidents and characters of his novels +have here their _mise en scène_. + +In homage to the genius of his favourite Author, the writer of the +following pages has endeavoured to localise many of the more familiar +associations of the great Novelist with as much exactitude as may be +possible; but it must be remembered that London has undergone +considerable alteration and reconstruction, during the last fifty years. + +Thus far reads the original Preface to this Work, as written thirteen +years since; the first (and smaller) edition of which was published in +1886, under the title of _Rambles in London with Charles Dickens_. The +author now begs to thankfully acknowledge its favourable reception, +generously accorded by the Press in particular, and the reading-world in +general. + +The present arrangement of the book includes some important additions as +well as considerable revision, the latter being rendered necessary by the +_disappearance_ of many houses and buildings in the course of intervening +years, and the steady progress of Metropolitan improvements. Thus it +comes to pass that only the memory of what has been remains, in regard to +many of these Dickensian localities and landmarks; and it has been the +object of the author (1899) to indicate the former whereabouts of these +old places, as heretofore existent. Especially in the Strand and +neighbourhood (Ramble I.), as well as in Chancery Lane and Holborn +(Rambles II. and IV.), many alterations have taken place, and another +London is springing up around a younger generation, not known to Dickens. +Our Author says (in _Martin Chuzzlewit_), “Change begets change; nothing +propagates so fast”: and the London of to-day, and the activities of our +Metropolitan County Council, at the close of this nineteenth century, +afford striking testimony to the truth of the aphorism, “The old order +changeth, giving place to new.” + +The _Pall Mall Magazine_, July 1896, contains a contribution by Mr. C. +Dickens, junr.—“Notes on Some Dickens’ Places and People”—in which he +deprecates the endeavours of those inquirers who have attempted any +localisation of these places. “It is true,” says he, “that many of the +places described in Charles Dickens’s books were suggested by real +localities or buildings, but the more the question comes to be examined, +the more clear it is that all that was done with the prototype, was to +use it as a painter or a sculptor uses a sketch, and that, under the hand +of the writer and in the natural process of evolution, it has grown, in +almost every case, into a finished picture, with few, if any, very +salient points about it to render its origin unmistakable.” He also +quotes, with emphatic approval, from a review of Mr. P. Fitzgerald’s +_Bozland_, then recently published: “Dickens, like Turner in the sister +art of painting—like all real artists indeed—used nature, no doubt, but +used it as being his slave and in no wise his master. He was not content +simply to reproduce the places, persons, things that he had seen and +known. He passed them through the crucible of his imagination, fused +them, re-combined their elements, changed them into something richer and +rarer, gave them forth as products of his art. Are we not doing him some +disservice when we try to reverse the process?” “With these words I most +cordially agree.—CHARLES DICKENS THE YOUNGER.” + +The author of this book would submit that the attempt to preserve the +memory of these localities in association with their original use by “the +Master,” does _not_ “reverse the process”; but, rightly considered, may +help the reader to a better comprehension of the genius and method of +Dickens. The dictum of the Rev. W. J. Dawson, given a few years since in +_The Young Woman_ (referring to a previous edition of this Work), is +worth consideration: “The book casts a new light upon Dickens’s methods +of work, and shows us how little he left to invention, and how much he +owed to exact observation.” And in this connection there may be quoted +the opinion of Sir Walter Besant, who published an appreciative article +in _The Queen_, 9th May 1896, anent these selfsame “Rambles,” which thus +concludes: “With this information in your hand, you can go down the +Strand and view its streets from north to south with increased +intelligence and interest. I am not certain whether peopling a street +with creations of the imagination is not more useful—it is certainly more +interesting—than with the real figures of the stony-hearted past.” + +The writer, therefore, still believes that such a Dickensian Directory as +is now prepared will be found a valuable practical guide for those who +may desire to visit the haunts and homes of these old friends, whose +memory we cannot “willingly let die;” and to recall the many interests +connected with them by the way. + +Though not professing to be infallible, he begs to assure those whom it +may concern that his information—gleaned from many sources—has been +collected _con amore_ with carefulness and caution; and he ventures to +hope that his book may be of service to many Metropolitan visitors, as +indicating (previous to the coming time when the New Zealander shall +meditate over the ruins of London) some few pleasant “Rambles in Dickens’ +Land.” + + R. A. + +LONDON, _September_ 20, 1899. + + + + +RAMBLE I +_Charing Cross to Lincoln’s Inn Fields_ + + +The Golden Cross; Associations with Pickwick and Copperfield—Craven +Street; Residence of Mr. Brownlow—Charing Cross Terminus—Hungerford +Stairs and Market; Lamert’s Blacking Manufactory; Micawber’s Lodgings; +Mr. Dick’s Bedroom—No. 3 Chandos Street; Blacking Warehouse—Bedfordbury; +“Tom All-Alone’s”—Buckingham Street; Copperfield’s Chambers—The Adelphi +Arches—The Adelphi Hotel; Snodgrass and Emily Wardle—“The +Fox-under-the-Hill”; Martin Chuzzlewit and Mark Tapley—The Residence of +Miss La Creevy—Offices of _Household Words_ and _All the Year +Round_—Covent Garden Market; Hummums and Tavistock Hotels, associated +with “Great Expectations,” etc.—Bow Street—Old Bow Street Police Court; +“The Artful Dodger”—Covent Garden Theatre—Broad Court; Mr. +Snevellicci—St. Martin’s Hall; Dickens’s First London Readings—Russell +Court; Nemo’s Burial Place—Clare Court; Copperfield’s Dining-Rooms—Old +Roman Bath; Mrs. Lirriper’s Lodgings—St. Clement Danes—Portsmouth Street; +“The Old Curiosity Shop”—The Old George the Fourth; “The Magpie and +Stump”—Portugal Street; “The Horse and Groom”; Mr. Tony Weller and his +Legal Adviser—Lincoln’s Inn Fields; Mr. John Forster’s House; Residence +of Mr. Tulkinghorn. + +Starting from CHARING CROSS POST OFFICE as a convenient centre, and +taking an eastward course up the Strand, we immediately reach, on the +left-hand (north) side—a few doors from the Post Office—The Golden Cross +Hotel. Sixty years since this establishment was one of the principal +Coaching Houses of the Metropolis. It was the starting-point of the +Rochester Coach, by which, on May 13, 1827, _Mr. Pickwick_ and his +friends commenced their travels. Driving by cab from the vicinity of +that gentleman’s residence in Goswell Street, here it was that the +pugnacious cabman, having mistaken the purpose of Mr. P.’s note-book, +committed assault and battery upon the four Pickwickians, “sparring away +like clockwork,” from which unexpected attack they were rescued by the +redoubtable _Mr. Alfred Jingle_. In those days there was an arched +entrance leading from the Strand beneath the front of the hotel to the +coach-yard behind. Hence Mr. Jingle’s warning to his new +acquaintances—“Heads, heads; take care of your heads!” which +recommendation was followed by the first recorded anecdote as given by +that loquacious pretender— + + “Terrible place—dangerous work—other day—five children—mother—tall + lady, eating sandwiches—forgot the arch—crash—knock—children look + round—mother’s head off—sandwich in her hand—no mouth to put it + in—head of a family off—shocking—shocking.” + +This coach-yard and its entrance existed until the days of _Copperfield_, +who came to THE GOLDEN CROSS in the nineteenth chapter of his history, +having just finished his education at Dr. Strong’s. He arrived “outside +the Canterbury Coach,” and here met _Steerforth_, his former schoolboy +patron, who speedily arranged for his transference from No. 44, “a little +loft over a stable,” to No. 72, a comfortable bedroom next his own. +Here, says David, “I fell asleep in blissful condition . . . until the +early morning coaches rumbling out of _the archway underneath_ made me +dream of thunder and the gods.” This entrance was abolished in 1851, +giving place to a more convenient exterior arrangement and doorway; again +remodelled, 1897. + +THE GOLDEN CROSS is again referred to in the Copperfield experience +(chapter 40) as the place where David conferred with _Mr. Peggotty_, one +snowy night, after their unexpected meeting opposite St. Martin’s Church +(close at hand on the north, at the corner of St. Martin’s Lane), when +_Martha_ listened at the door. + + “In those days there was a side entrance” (Duncannon Street, now + appropriated by the London and North-Western Railway Company) “nearly + opposite to where we stood. I pointed out the gateway, put my arm + through his, and we went across. Two or three public rooms opened + out of the stable-yard; and looking into one of them, and finding it + empty, and a good fire burning, I took him in there.” + +Opposite the principal entrance of THE GOLDEN CROSS is Craven Street, +leading to the Thames Embankment. It now mainly consists of private +hotels and boarding-houses, at which visitors to London may be +conveniently accommodated on reasonable terms. In the days of _Oliver +Twist_ these were, for the most part, private houses; and here was MR. +BROWNLOW’S RESIDENCE—taken after his removal from Pentonville—in which +was the back parlour where full confession was extorted from _Monks_, +_alias Edward Leeford_. The house, No. 39 (now _Barnett’s Private +Hotel_), centrally situated on the east side, is stated to have been +assigned as the residence aforesaid. + +On the south side of the Strand we immediately reach the Charing Cross +Terminus of the South-Eastern Railway, built on the site of old +Hungerford Market. At No. 30 Hungerford Stairs, at the back of this +locality, Charles Dickens, when a lad, did duty at the Blacking +Manufactory of a relative, by name James Lamert, at a salary of six or +seven shillings a week, as his first employment in life. It was the last +house on the left-hand side of the way, a crazy, tumble-down old place +abutting on the river. Here his work was to cover and label the pots of +paste-blacking. To this episode of his youthful experience he refers in +the history of “David Copperfield,” chapter 11, David becoming “a +labouring hind” in the service of _Messrs. Murdstone and Grinby_. In old +Hungerford Market, too, was THE CHANDLER’S SHOP over which _Mr. Peggotty_ +slept on the night of his first arrival in London; the bedroom being +afterwards appropriated by Mr. Dick. + + “There was a low wooden colonnade before the door, which pleased Mr. + Dick mightily. The glory of lodging over this structure would have + compensated him for many inconveniences. . . . He was perfectly + charmed with his accommodation. Mrs. Crupp had indignantly assured + him that there wasn’t room to swing a cat there; but, as Mr. Dick + justly observed, ‘You know, Trotwood, I don’t want to swing a cat. I + never do swing a cat. Therefore, what does that signify to me!’”—See + “Copperfield,” chapters 32 and 35. + +HUNGERFORD is also mentioned in the same book (chapter 57) as the place +where, previous to their departure for Australia, the MICAWBER FAMILY had +lodgings “in a little, dirty, tumble-down public-house, which in those +days was close to the stairs, and whose protruding wooden rooms overhung +the river.” + +By a parallel street near at hand (next turning on the left of the +Strand—Agar Street) we come into Chandos Street, where are situated the +large stores of the Civil Service Supply Association, which, during +recent years, have been enlarged, extending westward in Chandos Street. +This extension occupies the former site of No. 3, whilom a chemist’s +shop, kept by a Mr. Wellspring. Here, in the days that are gone, was +established a second warehouse of Lamert’s blacking trade, the business +being removed in course of time to this address; and here Dickens, with +other lads, was often busily employed near the window. They acquired +such dexterity in finishing off the pots, that many persons would stand +outside, looking on with interest at the performance. + +On the opposite side of Chandos Street is _Bedfordbury_—a northward +thoroughfare leading to New Street, Covent Garden—on the right of which +stands a range of five large five-storied blocks known as _Peabody’s +Buildings_. These afford respectable accommodation for artizans. This +was the locality of Tom All-Alone’s, that wretched rookery of evil repute +in the days of _Poor Joe_, as described in chapter 16 of “Bleak House.” +But, in these degenerate times, the black, dilapidated streets and +tumbling tenements have given place to wholesome dwellings, and the +neighbourhood is associated with the name of a great American +philanthropist. + +Returning to the south side of the Strand, we next come to Buckingham +Street (turning on right, by No. 37), at the end house of which, on the +right, facing the river, was the top set of chambers in the Adelphi, +consisting of + + “A little half-blind entry, where you could hardly see anything, a + little stone-blind pantry, where you could see nothing at all, a + sitting-room and a bedroom.” + +Here _David Copperfield_ for some time resided under the housekeeping +supervision of Mrs. Crupp, and the residence was afterwards shared by +_Miss Betsy Trotwood_. At the next turning in the Strand—by No. 64, same +side of the way—we arrive at Durham Street, which leads to the no +thoroughfare of The Adelphi Arches, about and through which the lad +Charles Dickens loved in his leisure time to roam. David Copperfield +says— + + “I was fond of wandering about the Adelphi, because it was a + mysterious place, with those dark arches. I see myself emerging one + evening from one of these arches, on a little public-house, close to + the river, with an open space before it, where some coal-heavers were + dancing.” + +Of this place more anon. + +Continuing our onward journey, we come to Adam Street (right-hand turning +by No. 72), looking down which may be seen, at the corner of John Street, +THE ADELPHI HOTEL. This hotel was known in the days of Pickwick as +Osborn’s Hotel, Adelphi. To this establishment, it will be remembered, +came _Mr. Wardle_, visiting London with his daughter Emily, after Mr. +Pickwick’s release from the Fleet Prison, also accompanied by his trusty +retainer, _the fat boy_, _Joe_. The last plate but one in the book +illustrates the plan adopted by _Mary_ when inducing that intelligent +youth to observe a discreet silence as to the visit of Mr. Snodgrass to +his young mistress at this hotel; and we may recollect the _contretemps_ +which afterwards took place here at dinner-time, involving the detention +of the clandestine lover, and resulting in a very satisfactory +_dénouement_.—See “Pickwick,” chapter 54. + +Passing the next block onwards, we arrive at the handsome frontage of the +HOTEL CECIL. In former days, at western corner of same, close to No. 75, +there existed a narrow and precipitous passage which was formerly the +approach to the halfpenny boats. It led to a little public-house, “The +Fox-under-the-Hill,” for a long time shut up and in ruinous +condition—once situated on the water-side, the site of which is now +covered by the west wing of the Hotel Cecil. + +This place is spoken of in Mr. Forster’s Biography as being one of our +author’s _favourite localities_, and referred to in “Copperfield,” as +before mentioned, in connection with the Adelphi Arches. This, then, was +doubtless the tavern at which _Martin Chuzzlewit_, _junr._, was +accommodated, on his arrival in London, “in the humbler regions of the +Adelphi;” and where he was unexpectedly visited by _Mark Tapley_, who +then and there became his “nat’ral born servant, hired by fate,” and his +very faithful friend.—See “Martin Chuzzlewit,” chapter 13. + +Farther onwards, on the same side, towards the centre of the Strand, +there stood near Savoy Street the house which in all probability was the +Residence of Miss La Creevy. It will be recollected that Ralph Nickleby, +visiting his relations at this address in the Strand, is described as +stopping + + “At a private door, about halfway down that crowded thoroughfare.” + +No. 111 was an old-fashioned house in just such a position, with a +private door—a somewhat unusual convenience in the Strand. A +photographer’s case had, for many years, displaced the “large gilt frame +screwed upon the street door,” in which Miss La Creevy aforetime +displayed her painted miniatures. The place has been pulled down, +together with the adjoining house. Handsome modern business premises are +erected on the double site.—See “Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 2. + +We now cross to the north side of the Strand, and take the next turning +on the left, _Wellington Street North_. Passing the Lyceum Theatre, we +may note, on the opposite side, the offices of the Gaiety Theatre, No. +16. For many years this was the Office of “Household Words”; this +well-known miscellany being started under the conductorship of Charles +Dickens, March 30, 1850. + +It was afterwards removed to No. 26, higher up, on the same side of the +way, at which address the later issue of _All the Year Round_ was +published, as conducted by Charles Dickens, the son. + +Proceeding a short distance onwards, and turning to the left, we come +into the precincts of Covent Garden Market. At the south corner of +_Russell Street_ we may note the position of the old HUMMUMS HOTEL, +mentioned in “Great Expectations” as the place where Pip slept, in +accordance with the warning received from Mr. Wemmick—“Don’t go home.” + +The present establishment was erected on the site of the former hotel (as +it stood in the days of Mr. Pip’s sojourn), 1892; on completion of the +new Flower Market, THE TAVISTOCK HOTEL, Piazzas, on the north side of the +market, was the house at which were held the fortnightly meetings of “The +Finches of the Grove,” Herbert Pocket and Mr. Pip being members of the +Club known by this appellation in the book above mentioned. The end and +aim of this institution seemed to be “that the members should dine +expensively once a fortnight, to quarrel among themselves as much as +possible after dinner, and to cause six waiters to get drunk on the +stairs.” + +A general description of _Covent Garden_ will be found in “Little Dorrit” +(chapter 14), and a graphic reference to “the seamy side” of this +locality is contained in the pages of “Our Mutual Friend” (chapter 9, +Book 4). + +Returning by Russell Street, we soon reach _Bow Street_, and on the left +may observe an open space contiguous to the _Foreign Fruit Market_. On +this space there stood No. 4, in recent times occupied by Mr. +Stinchcombe, costumier. Some years since this was the situation of Bow +Street Police Court, now removed to the handsome new building facing +Covent Garden Theatre. This, therefore, was the place at which the +_Artful Dodger_, when committed for trial by the presiding magistrate, +thus reserved his defence:— + + “This ain’t the shop for justice; besides which my attorney is + a-breakfasting this morning with the Vice-President of the House of + Commons; but I shall have something to say elsevere, and so will he, + and so will a wery numerous and respectable circle of acquaintances, + as’ll make them beaks wish they’d never been born.”—See “Oliver + Twist,” chapter 43. + +At a short distance onwards, we may note Covent Garden Theatre, selected +by David Copperfield as his first place of entertainment in London, after +dinner at the Golden Cross Hotel— + + “Being then in a pleasant frame of mind . . . I resolved to go to the + play. It was Covent Garden Theatre that I chose; and there, from the + back of a centre box, I saw “Julius Cæsar” and the new pantomime. To + have all those noble Romans alive before me, and walking in and out + for my entertainment, instead of being the stern taskmasters they had + been at school, was a most novel and delightful effect.” + +This theatre, as attended by David, was destroyed by fire March 4, 1856, +six years after his autobiography was published, and afterwards rebuilt. + +Exactly opposite the façade of the theatre is Broad Court, past the new +magisterial building above referred to. This was the location given by +_Mr. Snevellicci_ (at Portsmouth), on a convivial occasion, described in +“Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 30), as his London address:— + + “I am not ashamed of myself; Snevellicci is my name. I’m to be found + in Broad Court, Bow Street, when I’m in town. If I’m not at home, + let any man ask for me at the stage-door.” + +There is also historical reference to _Bow Street_ in “Barnaby Rudge,” as +the place where “another boy was hanged,” after the suppression of the +Gordon riots. + +Exactly facing the north end of Bow Street, which gives into Long Acre, +is a large building, now a stationer’s warehouse, recently used as the +Clergy Co-operative Stores. Thirty-five years since this site was +occupied by St. Martin’s Hall, in which Dickens gave his first series of +paid readings in London (sixteen nights), under the management of Mr. +Arthur Smith, 1858. The hall was a short time afterwards burnt down, and +the Queen’s Theatre was here erected in its stead by Mr. Wigan; which +theatre was since converted to the commercial uses of the Clergy as +aforesaid. + +Proceeding up _Long Acre_ to _Drury Lane_, we turn to the right, and in +five minutes pass the back of Drury Lane Theatre. The second turning on +the same side is RUSSELL COURT, a narrow passage leading to Catherine +Street. The entire area between the two streets, for some distance, is +cleared for building improvements, so that the indications immediately +following refer to the past, and not practically to the present. These +things have been, but are not. + +In this court, about halfway on the right, was to be found (until 1897) +the entrance to what was once the pauper Burial Ground where Captain +Hawdon—known as _Nemo_ in the pages of “Bleak House”—was interred, and +where Lady Dedlock was afterwards found dead at the gateway, she having +fled from her husband, Sir Leicester, in despair, dreading the _exposé_ +threatened by Mr. Tulkinghorn. It is also associated with _Poor Jo_, the +crossing-sweeper.—See “Bleak House,” chapters 11 and 59. + + “With houses looking on, on every side, save where a reeking little + tunnel of a court gives access to the iron gate—with every villainy + of life in action close on death, and every poisonous element of + death in action close on life—here, they lower our dear brother down + a foot or two: here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in + incorruption: an avenging ghost at many a sick bedside: a shameful + testimony to future ages, how civilisation and barbarism walked this + boastful island together.” + +This intermural graveyard was attached to the Church of St. +Mary-le-Strand, and has been closed for many years. The enclosure was +converted into a recreation ground, and formally opened as such by Lady +George Hamilton, May 19, 1886, on behalf of the Metropolitan Public +Garden Association. But the entire locality is changed, the “avenging +ghost” has ceased to walk, and the “shameful testimony” has ended. + +At a short distance in Drury Lane, towards the Strand, we turn (left) by +No. 106, into Clare Court, referred to in Forster’s Biography as +follows—(C.D. _loq._):— + + “Once, I remember tucking my own bread (which I had brought from home + in the morning) under my arm, wrapped up in a piece of paper like a + book, and going into the best dining-room in Johnson’s _a la mode_ + beef-house in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a + small plate of _a la mode_ beef to eat with it. What the waiter + thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all alone, I + don’t know, but I can see him now, staring at me as I ate my dinner, + and bringing up the other waiter to look. I gave him a halfpenny, + and I wish now that he hadn’t taken it.” + +This episode of the author’s experience as a poor boy in London was +reproduced in “David Copperfield,” chapter 11. The dining-house +mentioned then existed (1824) at No. 13 in the court, in a prominent +corner position. It has been unknown to fame for the last thirty years. + +Returning by Drury Court to the Strand, and passing on the south side of +the church above mentioned, we turn by No. 162A into _Strand Lane_, where +may be visited, at No. 5, The Old Roman Bath referred to by David +Copperfield, who says, “In which I have had many a cold plunge.” (See +chapter 35.) The bath itself is lined with white marble, and dates from +the sixteenth century. It is supplied from an old Roman reservoir +adjoining, about 2000 years old. + + [Picture: The Old Roman Bath] + +Passing Surrey Street, just beyond, we come (next on the right) to +_Norfolk Street_, in which there may be noted the former whereabouts of +MRS. LIRRIPER’S LODGINGS; and we may here recall the pleasant +associations connected with the Christmas numbers of _All the Year +Round_, 1863 and 1864. The houses in this street are not enumerated +beyond forty-five, all told. The figures 81, as given in the tale +referred to, should be _reversed_; but sad to relate, No. 18—long +standing as an old-fashioned boarding-house on the western side, below +Howard Street—has disappeared, and certain modern buildings, offices, +etc., recently erected, now occupy the old site. At a short distance +farther on, in a central position in the Strand, stands the church of St. +Clement Danes. It is of interest in this connection as the scene of Mrs. +Lirriper’s wedding, some forty years previous to the narration of her +business experience; and where she still retained “a sitting in a very +pleasant pew, with genteel company, and her own hassock, being partial to +evening service, not too crowded.” + +Retracing our steps, three minutes, to the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand, +again leaving the Strand by _Newcastle_ and _Houghton Streets_, and +turning left and right (leaving Clare Market on the left), we shortly +arrive at _Portsmouth Street_, _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_. At No. 14 will be +found (for a short time only) a small old-fashioned house, on the front +of which is painted an inscription, “The Old Curiosity Shop, +_Immortalised by Charles Dickens_,” now occupied by Mr. H. Poole, dealer +in wastepaper. This is said to be the house assigned by the novelist for +the residence of Little Nell and her grandfather, with whose pathetic +history we are all familiar— + + “One of those receptacles for old and curious things, which seem to + crouch in odd corners of this town, and to hide their musty treasures + from the public eye in jealousy and distrust.” + +It cannot, however, be regarded as absolutely certain that this +particular house was the author’s intended “local habitation” for one of +the best-known and loved of his creations. The tale itself concludes +with a reference to _Kit’s_ uncertainty as to the whereabouts of the +place:— + + “The old house had long ago been pulled down, and a fine broad road + was in its place. At first he would draw with his stick a square + upon the ground to show them where it used to stand. But he soon + became uncertain of the spot, and could only say it was thereabouts, + he thought, and that these alterations were confusing.” + +[A lady, personally acquainted with the great novelist, has informed the +author that she was once taken by Mr. Dickens to No. 10 Green Street +(approaching Leicester Square from the east)—at the corner of Green and +Castle Streets, behind the National Gallery—the business of +curiosity-dealing being then and there carried on. Mr. Dickens himself +localised this house as the home of little Nell, pointing out an inner +room—divided from the shop by a glass partition—as her bedroom. The +premises are now rebuilt.] + + [Picture: The Old Curiosity Shop] + +At a short distance from this locality, and at an opposite angle of the +street, there existed (until 1898) one of the old-fashioned taverns of +the metropolis. The house was noteworthy, with its overhanging front +resting on rough wooden pillars, and was named _Old George IVth_. + +It is now replaced by a newly-built house of the same name, in modern +style of plate glass, mahogany, and glitter. + +It is highly probable that the old tavern represented the location and +character of “The Magpie and Stump,” the rendezvous of _Mr. Lowten_ +(Perker’s clerk) and other choice spirits in the days of Pickwick. It is +described in the Pickwickian history as being near Clare Market, at the +back of New Inn, and to this position the “Old George IVth” will +correspond. Joe Miller, of jocular celebrity, was, aforetime, a +frequenter of this establishment, when his quips “were wont to set the +table in a roar.” His seat was still shown in the bar of the old house. +Dickens and Thackeray were also well remembered as visitors to this +ancient hostelry. There is now a “Magpie and Stump” in Fetter Lane, at +some distance hence; but it is evident that Dickens transferred the name +to a tavern in this neighbourhood. It will be remembered that here Mr. +Pickwick enjoyed an hour’s entertainment, listening to the legends of +“those curious old nooks,” the Inns of London, as related by Jack +Bamber—see “Pickwick,” chapter 21—also containing a description of the +advertisements of the tavern, as then displayed therein. + + “In the lower windows, which were decorated with curtains of a + saffron hue, dangled two or three printed cards, bearing reference to + Devonshire cyder and Dantzic spruce, while a large black board, + announcing in white letters to an enlightened public, that there were + 500,000 barrels of double stout in the cellars of the establishment, + left the mind in a state of not unpleasing doubt and uncertainty as + to the precise direction in the bowels of the earth, in which this + mighty cavern might be supposed to extend.” + +_Dick Swiveller_ would doubtless occasionally patronise this +establishment. He lodged hereabouts “in the neighbourhood of Drury +Lane;” but it is difficult to indicate any particular house which Dickens +may have selected for his accommodation. + +Stretching eastward from this point is _Portugal Street_, famed in the +same book as containing the Old Public House patronised by Mr. Tony +Weller and his _confrères_ of the coach-driving persuasion. This +house—opposite the Insolvent Debtors’ Court—existed until a few years +since, by name, “The Horse and Groom.” It and many more besides, have +now given place to a range of new offices and buildings in Elizabethan +style, on the south side of the street (forming the north boundary of New +Court), and the Insolvent Court has been recently appropriated to the +uses of the Bankruptcy Court. It will be remembered that it was here +_Mr. Samuel Weller_ got into difficulties, and was hence consigned to the +Fleet Prison at the instance of his father; the professional services of +the suave _Mr. Solomon Pell_ being retained on that occasion. Here also +a select committee of friends assembled to assist at an oyster lunch and +the proving of Mrs. Weller’s will, when Mr. Pell again conducted the +business to the satisfaction of all concerned.—See “Pickwick,” chapters +43 and 55. + +Returning through Portsmouth Street, we come into _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_; +and, keeping on its western side—passing Sardinia Street, with its old +archway, on the left—we may note Mr. John Forster’s House, No. 58. At +this house resided the friend and biographer of Dickens, and here our +author was, of course, a frequent visitor. On December the 2nd, 1844, +Charles Dickens here first read his new Christmas book, “The Chimes,” to +a select and critical audience, including Messrs. Forster, Maclise, +Douglas Jerrold, Carlyle, Laman Blanchard, Fox, Stanfield, Harness, and +Dyce. The house is itself described in the pages of “Bleak House” +(chapter 10) as the + +RESIDENCE OF MR. TULKINGHORN. + + “In a large house, formerly a house of state, lives Mr. Tulkinghorn. + It is let off in sets of chambers now; and in those shrunken + fragments of its greatness, lawyers lie, like maggots in nuts. But + its roomy staircases, passages, and antechambers still remain; and + even its painted ceiling, where Allegory in Roman helmet and + celestial linen sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers, + clouds, and big-legged boys, and makes the head ache, as would seem + to be Allegory’s object always, more or less.” + +As in the time spoken of, the house is still in legal possession, being +let out as solicitors’ offices; but the old Allegory has disappeared +beneath modern whitewash. Within two minutes’ distance northward, the +weary rambler may reach the central thoroughfare of HOLBORN, where +(turning to the left), close at hand, will be found the _Holborn +Restaurant_, at which Sam Weller’s advice on the subject of a “little +dinner” (or luncheon) may be worth practical consideration:— + + “Pair of fowls and a weal cutlet; French beans, ’taturs, tart, and + tidiness.” + +Certain it is that everything at this establishment will be found “werry +clean and comfortable,” on reasonable terms. + + + + +RAMBLE II +_Lincoln’s Inn to the Mansion House_ + + +Lincoln’s Inn Hall; “Jarndyce and Jarndyce”—Old Square; Offices of Kenge +and Carboy; Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin—Bishop’s Court; Miss Flite’s +Lodging at Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse; Nemo; Tony Weevle—The Old +Ship Tavern; “The Sol’s Arms”—Coavinses’ Castle—Mr. Snagsby’s Residence, +Took’s Court, Cursitor Street—Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and +Gridley—Tellson’s Bank, Fleet Street—The Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth +Pinch and John Westlock); Garden Court (Pip’s Chambers); Pump Court +(Chambers of the elder Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John +Chester and Mr. Stryver, K.C.)—Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and +Wrayburn—Bradley Headstone’s Look-out—Clifford’s Inn; John Rokesmith and +Mr. Boffin—St. Dunstan’s Pump and Maypole Hugh—St. Dunstan’s Church; “The +Chimes”—Bradbury and Evans, Bouverie Street—Office of the _Daily +News_—Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher’s Rooms,–“Ye old Cheshire +Cheese”—Farringdon, formerly Fleet, Market—Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and +Sam Weller’s Imprisonment—Belle Sauvage Yard—London Coffee House; Arthur +Clennam’s arrival—St. Paul’s Churchyard—Dean’s Court—Doctors’ Commons; +Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins—“Bell Tavern”—Wood Street; Coach Office at +which Pip first arrived—The London Stereoscopic Company; “Grip,” the +Raven—Bow Church—The Guildhall; Bardell _v._ Pickwick—Grocers’ Hall +Court—The Mansion House; References in “Barnaby Rudge,” “Christmas +Carol,” and “Martin Chuzzlewit”—“Dombey and Son.” + +The Rambler now crosses Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and, on its eastern side, +enters the precincts of _Lincoln’s Inn_, through an arched gateway, from +Serle Street. Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and +Library on the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at +old Lincoln’s Inn Hall, THE LORD HIGH CHANCELLOR’S COURT, with its +central turret and lantern, bearing the initials of the reigning +Treasurer, 1818, where Chancery suits were tried thirty years since. +Here that _cause célèbre_, JARNDYCE and JARNDYCE, dragged “its slow +length along” through the weary years, involving + + “Bills, cross-bills, answers, rejoinders, injunctions, affidavits, + issues, references to masters, masters’ reports—mountains of costly + nonsense.” + +Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little _Miss Flite_, in +her squeezed bonnet, carrying “her documents,” and + + “Always expecting some incomprehensible judgment in her favour.”—See + “Bleak House,” chapter 1. + +The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the New Law +Courts. Hard by, on the north, passing through the cloisters of the +Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn, we come into the enclosure of Old Square, +LINCOLN’S INN, where the _Offices of Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ were +situated. Esther Summerson says:— + + “We passed into sudden quietude, under an old gateway, and drove on + through a silent square, until we came to an odd nook in a corner, + where there was an entrance up a steep broad flight of stairs, like + an entrance to a church.” + +The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and Co.’s +offices used to flourish in the north-west corner, where still the rising +of the ground necessitates an exterior flight of steps. The chambers of +_Sergeant Snubbin_, counsel for the defence in “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” +were also located in this square, probably on the opposite side. + +Returning to Lincoln’s Inn, we may follow Esther Summerson’s directions, +and visit the apartments of _Miss Flite_— + + “Slipping us out of a little side gate, the old lady stopped most + unexpectedly in a narrow back street, part of some courts and lanes + immediately outside the wall of the inn, and said, ‘This is my + lodging. Pray walk up!’” + +Thus, passing at the back of the Inn, and taking the next turning on the +left, we arrive at Bishop’s Court, near at hand, a narrow, dark, and old +passage leading to Chancery Lane. On the left hand, nearest the Inn, was +_Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse_, probably No. 3. But during recent +years, all the old houses of the court have been substituted by modern +buildings, offices, and shops; so that the location only remains of the +“Lord Chancellor,” and his place of business, yclept by the neighbours +the “Court of Chancery.” The old shop, at one time, possessed the +private door and stairway leading to _Miss Flite’s lodging_. + + “She lived at the top of the house, in a pretty large room, from + which she had a glimpse of the roof of Lincoln’s Inn Hall.” + +Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise _Nemo_, the law-writer, lived and +died in a bare room on the second floor. A notice may have been observed +in the old shop window, “Engrossing and Copying.” It will be remembered +that this room was afterwards occupied by _Mr. Tony Weevle_, during whose +tenancy it was decorated with a choice collection of magnificent +portraits, being— + + “Copper-plate impressions from that truly national work, the + Divinities of Albion, or Galaxy Gallery of British Beauty; + representing ladies of title and fashion, in every variety of smirk, + that art, combined with capital, is capable of producing.” + +Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short distance along +Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of _Chichester Rents_, a modern +warehouse (No. 7), recently erected on the site of “The Old Ship Tavern,” +now _non est_, named in the pages of “Bleak House” _The Sol’s Arms_, it +being the house at which _the Inquest was held_, following the death of +_Nemo_, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the proffered +evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the presiding coroner. + + “Can’t exactly say; won’t do, you know. We can’t take that in a + Court of Justice, gentlemen. It’s terrible depravity. Put the boy + aside.” + +The old tavern has given place to the exigencies of modern commerce +(1897). The ghost of _Little Swills_ may still linger in the +neighbourhood, but the musical evenings of the past are silent, being now +superseded by the prosaics of ordinary business. + +The real SOL’S ARMS still exists, _No._ 65 _Hampstead Road_, _N.W._, at +the corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol’s Row. Its name was +derived from the “Sol’s Society,” whose meetings, held therein, were of a +Masonic character. It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the +style and name of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as +above. + +Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite the old +gateway of Lincoln’s Inn, Cursitor Street, a thoroughfare leading +eastward from the Lane. It will be noticed that the houses in this +street are comparatively of recent erection, and we may now look in vain +for COAVINSES’ CASTLE, which has been swept away by the besom of modern +destruction and improvement. This old sponging-house flourished (in the +days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site now +occupied by _Lincoln’s Inn Chambers_, No. 1. + +At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a turning on +the left to _Took’s Court_, referred to in “Bleak House” as _Cook’s +Court_, in which was Mr. Snagsby’s Residence AND LAW STATIONER’S SHOP. +The court is not a long one, and consists mainly of offices connected +with the legal profession. The location of Mr. Snagsby’s shop was at the +central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by modern offices +and stores. “The little drawing-room upstairs” is described as +commanding + + “A view of Cook’s Court at one end (not to mention a squint into + Cursitor Street) and of Coavins’s, the Sheriff’s Officer’s, backyard + on the other.” + +The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared for the reception +of the _Rev. Mr. Chadband_ (Chaplain-in-Ordinary to Mrs. Snagsby), who +was “endowed with the gift of holding forth for four hours at a stretch.” +On that occasion, it will be remembered that Poor Jo—brought to Cook’s +Court by a police constable—was eloquently addressed by the reverend +gentleman, but was not greatly edified by his admonitions. + + “At this threatening stage of the discourse, Jo, who seems to have + been gradually going out of his mind, smears his right arm over his + face, and gives a terrible yawn. Mrs. Snagsby indignantly expresses + her belief that he is a limb of the arch-fiend.” + +Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note _Bream’s +Buildings_, as being the northern boundary of the former site of Symond’s +Inn, which hence extended onward to No. 22. + + “A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn, like a large dust-bin of + two compartments and a sifter. It looks as if Symond were a sparing + man in his day, and constructed his inn of old building materials, + which took kindly to the dry rot, and to dirt, and all things + decaying and dismal, and perpetuated Symond’s memory with congenial + shabbiness.” + +This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position being now +occupied by a large printer’s establishment and other offices. Readers +of “Bleak House” will remember that the professional chambers of _Mr. +Vholes_ were here situated, and that _Richard Carstone_ and his young +wife _Ada_ resided in the next house, in order that Richard might have +his legal adviser close at hand. Here occurred the early death of poor +Richard; and we all cherish the remembrance of dear Ada’s wifely +devotion, to which _Esther Summerson_ thus refers:— + + “The days when I frequented that miserable corner which my dear girl + brightened can never fade in my remembrance. I never see it, and I + never wish to see it now; I have been there only once since; but in + my memory there is a mournful glory shining on the place, which will + shine for ever.” + +Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we reach Bell +Yard, leading to Fleet Street. This place has been mentioned by Dickens +as containing a “chandler’s shop, left-hand side,” where lodged +_Gridley_, “the man from Shropshire,” and _Neckett_, the faithful +servitor of Coavinses. The name—Bell Yard—forms the heading of chapter +15, “Bleak House,” which affords information of the Neckett +family—_Charlie_, _Tom_, and the limp-bonneted _baby_. For full details, +reference should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written +chapter as above. Great alterations have been made, and are still being +made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the New Law Courts in +the immediate vicinity; but some of the older houses still remain on the +left-hand side of the way. Of these, No. 9 is a small, tall, +squeezed-looking house, about half-way down the alley, and may be safely +assigned (thirty years since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs. +Blinder. + +Passing through Bell Yard, we reach _Fleet Street_, at the point where +once TEMPLE BAR gave ancient entrance to the City. Its position is +marked by a bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath. +Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern +erection of _Child’s Bank_. This new building dates from 1878, when the +structure of old _Temple Bar_ was removed. It replaces one of the very +old-fashioned houses of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child +carried on their important banking business. This house is spoken of by +Dickens, in his “Tale of Two Cities,” as Tellson’s Bank, on the outside +of which the mysterious _Mr. Cruncher_ was usually in attendance as +“odd-job man, and occasional porter and messenger.” + + “Tellson’s Bank, by Temple Bar, was an old-fashioned place even in + the year 1780. It was very small, very dark, very ugly, very + incommodious. Any one of the partners would have disinherited his + son on the question of rebuilding Tellson’s. Thus it had come to + pass that Tellson’s was the triumphant perfection of inconvenience. + After bursting open a door of idiotic obstinacy with a weak rattle in + its throat, you fell into Tellson’s, down two steps, and came to your + senses in a miserable little shop, with two little counters; where + the oldest of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it, + while they examined the signature by the dingiest of windows, which + were always under a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which + were made the dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of + Temple Bar.” + + [Picture: Fountain Court, Temple] + +Passing Newton’s (optician) we arrive at the outer Gate of the Temple, by +which we enter _Middle Temple Lane_, following which a short distance and +turning to the right, by _Middle Temple Hall_, we reach Fountain Court. +The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a central position, is +associated with the history of _Ruth Pinch_. Here it was that Tom and +his sister made appointments for meeting— + + “Because, of course, when she had to wait a minute or two, it would + have been very awkward for her to have had to wait in any but a quiet + spot; and that was as quiet a spot, everything considered, as they + could choose.” + +On further reference to the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit,” we may recall +the auspicious occasion when Ruth was under the special escort of _John +Westlock_— + + “Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in the sun, and merrily the + idle drops of water danced and danced; and, peeping out in sport + among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, as little + Ruth and her companion came towards it.” + +See chapter 53. In Garden Court beyond, _Mr. Pip_ and his friend, +_Herbert Pocket_, had residence. In “Great Expectations,” he says— + + “Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by the river. We lived at + the top of the last house.” + +Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict _Magwitch_, _alias Provis_, +disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s” +discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was +found for him at + + “A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back of which looked into the + Temple, and was almost within hail of ‘Pip’s’ windows.” + +The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may look in vain for +the actual chambers specified. Returning to _Middle Temple Lane_, the +visitor may walk directly across it to _Elm Court_, and proceed through +the same and a narrow passage beyond, turning to the left, through _The +Cloisters_, which (left again) give into the central location of Pump +Court, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, four storeys high. +Here, in all probability, were situated THE CHAMBERS where _Tom Pinch_ +was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, by the +eccentric _Mr. Fips_. + + “He led the way through sundry lanes and courts, into one more quiet + and gloomy than the rest; and, singling out a certain house, ascended + a common staircase . . . stopping before a door upon an upper storey. + . . . There were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer + one, a narrow staircase leading to two more above.” + +Here, also, old _Martin Chuzzlewit_ revealed himself to the astonished +Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous _Mr. Pecksniff_ by +a “warm reception,” when “the tables were turned completely upside +down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and 52. + +Proceeding past _Lamb Buildings_, on the east side of the Cloisters, and +by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath the _Inner Temple +Dining-Hall_, we may note across the road (right) a short range of +substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing _King’s Bench Walk_, +where it will be remembered that _Sir John Chester_ had his residential +chambers, no doubt selecting a central position—say, at No. 3. Here at +various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden +had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which “overhaul the +wollume”—“Barnaby Rudge.” + +In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of _Mr. Stryver_, +_K.C._, where _Sydney Carton_ served as “jackal” to that “fellow of +delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two Cities,” how Sydney + + “Having revived himself by twice pacing the pavements of King’s Bench + Walk and Paper Buildings, turned into the Stryver Chambers.” + +Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing in front of the +Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith’s Buildings (right), which +overlook the old burial-ground and the tomb of the doctor. This surely +is the “dismal churchyard” referred to in “Our Mutual Friend” as being +closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn. + + “Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal windows commanding that + churchyard, until at the most dismal window of them all, he saw a + dismal boy, would in him have beheld . . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer + Lightwood.” + +_N.B._—Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west +wing, lately rebuilt. + +Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple +Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of Bradley Headstone’s +nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of _Mr. Eugene +Wrayburn_, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as +Eugene enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense of his +unfortunate rival. + +Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford’s Inn +Passage, into whose retirement _Mr. Rokesmith_, the hero of “Our Mutual +Friend,” withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with _Mr. Boffin_, when +offering that gentleman his services as secretary. + +Close at hand stands St. Dunstan’s Church, near to which the pump was, +but is not, from whose refreshing streams “_Hugh_” (from the Maypole, +Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to +visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings. (_Vide_ “Barnaby Rudge,” +chapter 40.) The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain. + +_Toby Veck_ surely must have known that pump; for though there is no +precise location given by Dickens in “The Chimes” for the church near to +which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the +original edition of that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the +counterfeit presentment of St. Dunstan’s Tower. + +Continuing the route, we pass _Bouverie Street_ (Bradbury and Evans—now +Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street were the publishers of several of +the works of Dickens, “The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving +at _Whitefriars’ Street_ on the same side. + +At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of “The Daily +News.” This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under +the supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the +journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from Italy.” Dickens +shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends +Jerrold and Forster. The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the +study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with +“the People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” rather than “the +people—spelt with a small p, who govern.” + +A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage (left) from which, +at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where +Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments. +These “were very decently kept” by his wife, whose “flopping” +proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry. + +On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just beyond, we turn (left) +into _Wine Office Court_, and, on the right, we arrive at “Ye Olde +Cheshire Cheese.” In “The Tale of Two Cities,” Book 2, chapter 4, we +read that _Charles Darnay_, being acquitted of the charge of high +treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young +lawyer, _Sydney Carton_, to dine in his company thereafter:— + + “Drawing his arm through his own, he took him down Ludgate Hill to + Fleet Street, and so up a covered way into a tavern.” + +This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort +with literary and legal men for more than a century past. Here Doctor +Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently dined together in days gone by, +gravely discoursing over their punch afterwards; and, in more recent +years, Thackeray, Dickens, Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned +among the customary guests of the establishment. Mr. George Augustus +Sala, in a pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:— + + “Let it be noted in candour that Law finds its way to the ‘Cheese’ as + well as Literature; but the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant, + and, consequently, harmless order. Literary men who have been called + to the Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do + not object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of + retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the + landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to Judge + Blackstone when he wrote his ‘Commentaries’)—these make up the legal + element of the ‘Cheese.’” + +The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains +_Ludgate Circus_, from which _Farringdon Street_ leads northward on the +left. A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge +of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of _Farringdon Market_ on the +left side. Its position will recall the description given in “Barnaby +Rudge,” in whose days it was known as Fleet Market, + + “At that time a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses + occupying the centre of what is now called Farringdon Street. . . . + It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days that + they should be public nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained + the principle to admiration.” + +Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book before mentioned—and +passed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings. Retracing +our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site +of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the CONGREGATIONAL +MEMORIAL HALL. The prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the +rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., Belle +Sauvage Yard. Its last remaining walls were removed in 1872, when the +foundation-stone of the “Memorial Hall” aforesaid was laid. Here was +imprisoned our amiable friend _Mr. Pickwick_, attended by his faithful +Sam, until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in _re_ +Bardell _versus_ Pickwick were by him fully paid and satisfied. + +Proceeding up _Ludgate Hill_, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard +(turning by No. 68, on the left). The old inn, with its central +metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now +the extensive printing and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold +benignant sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of _Sam +Weller’s_ anent the preparation of his father’s marriage licence, as +arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that +respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London— + + “‘What is your name, sir?’ says the lawyer. ‘Tony Weller,’ says my + father. ‘Parish?’ says the lawyer. ‘Belle Savage,’ says my father; + for he stopped there when he drove up, and he know’d nothing about + parishes, _he_ didn’t.” + +The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style. +In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two courts, the outer one being +approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle +Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way +up from the main entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard, +surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of +the times. + +Passing onwards on the same side, past _Old Bailey_, we arrive at the +site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by +the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The +old house was pulled down in 1872. Here _Mr. Arthur Clennam_ rested +awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and by Dover +coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in +chapter 3 of “Little Dorrit.” We now soon come to St. Paul’s Churchyard, +facing the dial by which _Ralph Nickleby_ corrected his watch on his way +to the London Tavern, no doubt “stepping aside” into No. +1—Dakin’s—“doorway” to do it; and we may probably be disposed to endorse +_John Browdie’s_ verdict with reference to St. Paul’s Cathedral itself. +“See there, lass, there be Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he +be.” This locality is also mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as being in the +line of road taken by _Lord George Gordon_ when entering London with his +friends _en route_ for his residence in Welbeck Street. On the right, +within a short distance, we come to Dean’s Court, formerly DOCTORS’ +COMMONS. This place is referred to by _Sam Weller_ as being in + + “St. Paul’s Churchyard—low archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s + at one corner, hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as + touts for licences.” + +He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his father’s +having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the +lady’s name to be filled in on speculation. + +We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of “David +Copperfield.” + +The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but +the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings’ Bank in _Knightrider +Street_. Passing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s +(right), we cross _Carter Lane_, and proceed by a narrow court, _Bell +Yard_, to the street above mentioned. At the corner of Carter Lane and +Bell Yard is the “_Bell Tavern_,” which it may be interesting to note, as +a house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in +preparation for David’s “choice of a profession.” For full particulars +the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography. + +It may also be remembered that the worthy _Mr. Boffin_ (see “Our Mutual +Friend”), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in +his ideas relative to this institution. In conversation with Mr. +Lightwood, he once referred to the same as a legal personality—“_Doctor +Scommons_!” + +This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and +aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As previously stated, it is +now known as Dean’s Court. In connection with its old associations, +there exists _The Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence +Office_, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors’ +offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the +neighbourhood. + +On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon +arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street. +Associated with “Great Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn” +(“_The Castle_,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first +visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per _Mr. +Jaggers_. + +Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the +well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54. It +may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original +of “_Grip_,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double +passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the particulars of its decease, +and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis. This relic, so intimately +associated with the tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public +sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its photographic portrait may +be now obtained at this address. + +A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St. +Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to fame and fortune. +These same bells are mentioned in the history of “Dombey and Son,” +chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm. + +Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive +at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall. +In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of +promise of marriage, “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” was contested, on which +occasion _Mr. Weller_, _senr._, emphatically insisted (from the body of +the Court) on Sam’s spelling his name with a “we,” and afterwards much +deplored the absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick’s +behalf—“Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn’t there a alleybi?” Are not all these +and other particulars written in the chronicles of the “Pickwick +Papers”?—See chapter 34. + +Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of +the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the +Poultry, at the farther end, passing a turning on the left therefrom, +known as GROCERS’ HALL COURT. It will be remembered that on one occasion +when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller, +whose “knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from +the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the +last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his +master to + + “Take the box as stands in the first fireplace, ’cos there a’n’t no + leg in the middle of the table.” + +In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this +house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is +recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned +sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son’s patron, +and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich. At the end +of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House, +mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the Mayor of London. We +read of this civic potentate in the pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when, +one Christmas Eve, + + “The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the mighty Mansion House, gave + orders to his fifty cooks and butlers to keep Christmas as a Lord + Mayor’s household should.” + +_Mark Tapley_ also—in America—once made jocose reference to this +location. When speaking of Queen Victoria, he informed certain members +of the Watertoast Association to the following effect:— + + “She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, with the Lord Mayor at + the Mansion House, but don’t often occupy them, in consequence of the + parlour chimney smoking.” + +Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of +Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House. Their position was +probably in proximity to _The Royal Exchange_, but the address cannot be +definitely indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and +schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the prosperity of the +house. + +The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving +establishment of the well-known merchant tailors—DOMBEY & SON—will be +found at No. 120 _Cheapside_, at which a large and well-conducted +business is carried on. + +From this point we may conveniently visit “His Lordship’s Larder” (at +three minutes’ distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh, +“rest, and be thankful.” + + + + +RAMBLE III +_Charing Cross to Thavies Inn_, _Holborn Circus_ + + +South-Eastern Terminus—Spa Road Station—Jacob’s Island; Sykes’s last +Refuge—Butler’s Wharf, formerly Quilp’s Wharf—Quilp’s House, Tower +Hill—Trinity House and Garden; Bella Wilfer’s Waiting-place—Southwark +Bridge; Little Dorrit’s Promenade—The General Post Office—Falcon Hotel, +Falcon Square; John Jasper’s patronage—Little Britain; Office of Mr. +Jaggers—Smithfield—Newgate Prison; Pip’s description in “Great +Expectations”—The Old Bailey Criminal Court, as per “Tale of Two +Cities”—The Saracen’s Head; Associations with Nicholas +Nickleby—Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his Companions—Scene of the +Robbery—Line of Route taken by Oliver and “The Artful Dodger” from the +Angel to Saffron Hill—Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of Mr. +Fang—Great Saffron Hill and Field Lane—Fagin’s House and the “Three +Cripples”—Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and Clennam; the Plornish +Family—Ely Place—Thavies Inn; Mrs. Jellyby’s Residence. + +From the SOUTH-EASTERN TERMINUS at Charing Cross there are frequent +trains by which the Rambler can travel to _Spa Road Station_, +_Bermondsey_ (about twenty minutes’ ride), from which point the situation +of what was once Jacob’s Island may be conveniently visited. This place +was associated with the adventures of _Oliver Twist_, being the last +refuge to which _Sykes_, the murderer of _Nancy_, betook himself on his +return to London, and where he met a righteous retribution when +attempting his escape. It is described by Dickens—nearly sixty years +since—as being + + “Near to that part of the Thames on which the church at Rotherhithe + abuts, where the buildings on the banks are dirtiest, and the vessels + on the river blackest, with the dust of colliers and the smoke of + close-built, low-roofed houses. In such a neighbourhood, beyond + Dockhead, in the borough of Southwark, stands Jacob’s Island, + surrounded by a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or + twenty wide when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in + the days of this story as Folly Ditch.” + +Arriving at _Spa Road_, the explorer turns left and right by the short +routes of _West Street South_, _Fream Street_, and _Rouel Road_, into +_Jamaica Road_ (five minutes from station); passing from the opposite +side of which, through _Parker’s Row_ to the thoroughfare of _Dockhead_, +he will find himself face to face with a tavern on the north side, named +“The Swan and Sugar Loaf.” A short cut on the right of this house leads +immediately to LONDON STREET, its northern side forming the south +boundary of the old site of Jacob’s Island. _Folly Ditch_, flowing from +the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through London Street (it +has been filled in since 1851); and in these streets wooden bridges +crossed to the Island, and “crazy wooden galleries, common to the backs +of half-a-dozen houses”—referred to by the novelist—used to “ornament the +banks of Folly Ditch.” To the right we pass into _George Row_, enclosing +Jacob’s Island (east), and may note _en passant_ the blocks of workmen’s +dwellings, erected 1883, named “Wolseley’s Buildings,” which occupy the +site of the old Island on its eastern side. From George Row we turn +(right) into _Jacob Street_, north of the Island, by which we come into +_Mill Street_ (west); again returning to _London Street_, and so +completing the circumnavigation of this interesting locality. Some of +the old wooden erections still exist in _Farthing Alley_, _Halfpenny +Alley_, and _Edward Street_, which intersect the area. In his preface to +the first cheap edition of “Oliver Twist,” the author makes a further +reference, as follows:— + + “In the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, it was publicly + declared in London by an amazing alderman, that Jacob’s Island did + not exist, and never had existed. Jacob’s Island continues to exist + (like an ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight + hundred and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.” + +Starting westward from “The Swan and Sugar Loaf,” we now proceed through +_Thornton Street_, and turn to the right, by one block in the street +beyond, into _Queen Street_, which leads directly north to the riverside. +At the end of this street is the locality of Quilp’s Wharf and place of +business, aforetime described in the pages of “The Old Curiosity Shop”:— + + “A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in which were a little wooden + counting-house, burrowing all awry in the dust as if it had fallen + from the clouds, and ploughed into the ground; a few fragments of + rusty anchors, several large iron rings, some piles of rotten wood, + and two or three heaps of old sheet copper—crumpled, cracked, and + battered.” + +The place has been altogether altered and improved during the last forty +years, and is now known as “Butler’s Wharf,” but the original prototype +of Quilp is still remembered by some of the older residents of the +neighbourhood. + +The westward route being continued by the side of the river, we walk +through _Shad Thames_ and _Pickle Herring Street_ (underneath an archway) +to _Vine Street_, where is the southern entrance of the _Tower Subway_, +by which we may cross below the river to the other side. Emerging near +the Tower, Quilp’s House, on Tower Hill, is near at hand. No. 6 Tower +Dock, facing the public entrance to the Tower, is said to have comprised +the lodging assigned by Dickens for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs. +Daniel Quilp and Mrs. Jiniwin. We may here recall the matrons’ +tea-meeting, as described in chapter 4 of “The Old Curiosity Shop,” when +Quilp’s conduct as a husband was freely discussed, and much good advice +tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the true assertion of her rights and dignity. +Also the notable occasion when, the master of the house being missing and +thought to be drowned, _Mr. Sampson Brass_ was in consultation, and the +party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a descriptive +advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, as lively and +sarcastic as ever. + + “A question now arises with regard to his nose. ‘Flat,’ said Mrs. + Jiniwin. ‘Aquiline!’ cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and + striking the feature with his fist. ‘Aquiline, you hag. Do you see + it? Do you call this flat? Do you? Eh?’” + +Hard by this locality stands Trinity House, Tower Hill, with its garden +in front, and it may be remembered that _Mr. Wilfer_ suggested this +neighbourhood as a waiting-place for Bella, on the occasion of their +“innocent elopement” to Greenwich, while he should array himself in new +garments at her expense, to do honour to the expedition. We now turn +westward by _Tower Street_, and may save time by taking train at _Mark +Lane Station_ for the Mansion House, about ten minutes’ ride. On arrival +at the Mansion House Station we shall find _Queen Street_ close at hand, +leading riverwards to Southwark Bridge, referred to in “Little Dorrit” as +the Iron Bridge. This was Amy Dorrit’s favourite promenade, it being +quieter than many of the neighbouring thoroughfares; and we may recall +the scene when young _John Chivery_ was obliged to take no for an answer, +when he attempted the proffer of his hand and heart. + +Proceeding onwards through _Cannon Street_, we turn to the right through +_St. Paul’s Churchyard_, crossing Cheapside to the stately edifice of the +General Post Office, _St. Martin’s-le-Grand_. This building, in the +times of “Nicholas Nickleby,” occasioned honest John Browdie some +surprise:— + + “Wa-at dost thee tak’ yon place to be, noo, that ’un ower the wa’? + Ye’d never coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths. It’s na + but a Poast-office. Ho, ho! they need to charge for double latthers. + A Poast-office! What dost thee think of that? Ecod, if that’s on’y + a Poast-office, loike to see where the Lord Mayor o’ Lunnon lives!” + +_Aldersgate Street_ leads northward from St. Martin’s-le-Grand; passing +the first block in which, _Falcon Street_ turns on the right (No. 16) +towards _Falcon Square_, a small city piazza, where may be found (No. 8) +The Falcon Hotel. This is the place at which John Jasper sojourned when +visiting London. In “The Mystery of Edwin Drood” we read the following +commendation of the house in question:— + + “It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at its visitor’s + option. It announces itself, in the new Railway advertisers, as a + novel enterprise, timidly beginning to spring up. It bashfully, + almost apologetically, gives the traveller to understand that it does + not expect him, on the good old constitutional hotel plan, to order a + pint of sweet blacking for his drinking, and throw it away; but + insinuates that he may have his boots blacked instead of his stomach, + and may also have bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all + night, for a certain fixed charge.” + +Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the opposite turning, +leading to Smithfield, is _Little Britain_. In “Great Expectations” we +learn that the Offices of Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, were here +situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but the house cannot be +precisely indicated. Here _Mr. Wemmick_ assisted his Principal in the +details of his professional business. He may be remembered as having a +decided preference for “portable property.” + +Proceeding onward by _Duke Street_, the visitor will shortly come into +Smithfield, a locality which is considerably changed since the days when +Pip first arrived in London. He says— + + “When I told the clerk that I would take a turn in the air while I + waited, he advised me to go round the corner and I should come into + Smithfield. So I came into Smithfield; and the shameful place, being + all asmear with filth, and fat, and blood, and foam, seemed to stick + to me. So, I rubbed it off with all possible speed by turning into a + street where I saw the great black dome of Saint Paul’s bulging at me + from behind a grim stone building which a bystander said was Newgate + Prison.” + +Adopting the same line of route, the Rambler may pass the south front of +the Metropolitan Meat Market, turning to the left by St. Bartholomew’s +Hospital into _Giltspur Street_, which leads to Newgate Street, and faces +on the opposite corner of Old Bailey Newgate Prison. In “Great +Expectations,” Pip describes his visit to the interior, at the invitation +and in the company of Mr. Wemmick:— + + “We passed through the Lodge, where some fetters were hanging up, on + the bare walls among the prison rules, into the interior of the jail. + At that time jails were much neglected, and the period of exaggerated + reaction consequent on all public wrong-doing—and which is always its + longest and heaviest punishment—was still far off. So, felons were + not lodged and fed better than soldiers (to say nothing of paupers), + and seldom set fire to their prisons with the excusable object of + improving the flavour of their soup. It was visiting-time when + Wemmick took me in, and a potman was going his rounds with beer, and + the prisoners behind bars in yards were buying beer and talking to + friends; and a frowsy, ugly, disorderly, depressing scene it was.” + +Again, it may be remarked that things have much improved since the good +old days. _Inter alia_, the principles and rules of prison management +and discipline have greatly changed for the better. + +In the tale of “Barnaby Rudge” is the narrative of the burning of Newgate +and the liberation of the prisoners by the rioters (1780), on which +occasion it will be remembered that our old friend Gabriel Varden was +somewhat roughly handled. For full particulars, see chapter 64. + +Immediately south of Newgate is the adjacent Central Criminal Court of +The Old Bailey, the scene of Charles Darnay’s trial in “The Tale of Two +Cities.” At the time there described (1775)— + + “The Old Bailey was famous as a kind of deadly Inn yard, from which + pale travellers set out continually, in carts and coaches, on a + violent passage to the other world, traversing some two miles and a + half of public street and road, and shaming few good citizens, if + any. So powerful is use, and so desirable to be good use in the + beginning. It was famous, too, for the pillory, a wise old + institution, that inflicted a punishment of which no one could + foresee the extent; also for the whipping-post, another dear old + institution, very humanising and softening to behold in action; also + for extensive transactions in blood-money, another fragment of + ancestral wisdom.” + +Facing eastward from Newgate Street is the _Holborn Viaduct_, which has +for many years superseded the old ascending and descending road of +Holborn Hill. + +The Saracen’s Head, the old coaching-house on Snow Hill, with which we +have been familiar from the days of “Nicholas Nickleby,” as the +headquarters of Mr. Squeers, has disappeared since 1868, having been +pulled down long ago, with many other buildings of this neighbourhood, +giving room to the great improvements which have taken place in this part +of London. Hereabouts it stood, on a lower level, not far from St. +Sepulchre’s Church— + + “Just on that particular part of Snow Hill where omnibus horses going + eastward seriously think of falling down on purpose, and horses in + hackney cabriolets going westward not unfrequently fall by accident.” + +The present _Police Station_, Snow Hill, stands on part of the site +formerly occupied by this old hostelry. + +This modern thoroughfare of Snow Hill commences at the first turning on +the right, in which has been erected a commodious hotel of the same name +(No. 10), where, by the aid of a little refreshment and a slight exercise +of imagination, we may recall the departure of Nicholas for Dotheboy’s +Hall, Greta Bridge, by the Yorkshire coach, with Mr. Squeers and the +pupils; also the later arrival in London of Mr. and Mrs. Browdie, +accompanied by the lovely Fanny as bridesmaid, and the first meeting of +Nicholas with Frank Cheeryble, newly returned from Continental travel. + +Snow Hill leads to the lower level of _Farringdon Road_, at a point +immediately north of the Holborn Viaduct spanning the thoroughfare, in +which, turning to the right, we walk onwards to the intersection of +_Clerkenwell Road_ (eight minutes’ work). On the right hand, across the +railway, is Clerkenwell Green, referred to in “Oliver Twist” as + + “That open square in Clerkenwell which is yet called by some strange + perversion of terms The Green.” + +It was near this place that little Oliver became enlightened as to the +business of Charley Bates and the Artful Dodger. We read that the boys, +traversing a narrow court in this neighbourhood, came out opposite a +bookstall, where Mr. Brownlow was reading, abstracted from all other +mundane considerations, so affording “a prime plant” for the operations +of these light-fingered gentlemen. This court leads from the road +opposite the Sessions House into _Pear Tree Court_, giving into the main +road at some distance beyond, at which the scene above referred to was +enacted. + +Walking onwards by the _King’s Cross Road_ we soon come to the point +where _Exmouth Street_ joins it from the east, facing the south-east +angle of the House of Correction. Here we strike into the route taken by +Oliver Twist when he first came from Barnet to London, under the escort +of _Mr. John Dawkins_. The text of the story is as follows:— + + “They crossed from the ‘Angel’ into St. John’s Road, struck down the + small street which terminates at Sadler’s Wells Theatre, through + Exmouth Street and Coppice Row, down the little court by the side of + the Workhouse, across the classic ground which once bore the name of + Hockley-in-the-Hole, thence into Little Saffron Hill, and so into + Saffron Hill the Great.” + +Following the line thus indicated from Exmouth Street, we come on the +south side of the Workhouse, nearly opposite Little Saffron Hill, which +leads into _Great Saffron Hill_ as above. Crossing _Clerkenwell Road_, +and proceeding for a short distance down Great Saffron Hill, we arrive at +the cross street of _Hatton Wall_, in which, past two doors to the left +on the south side, will be found—between the _Hat and Tun Inn_ and No. 17 +beyond—the entrance of HATTON YARD, a long narrow lane or mews (leading +to _Kirby Street_), occupied by carmen and stabling. In this eligible +position was situated, some fifty years since, “the very notorious +Metropolitan Police Court” to which Oliver Twist was taken on the charge +of theft; and we may here recall the administration of the presiding +magistrate, the notable Mr. Fang, as shown in the examination of the +prisoner. + +The premises (No. 9, on the left) once formed part and parcel of the +police court referred to; but the arrangements of the neighbourhood have +been subjected to much alteration during the last half century. Mr. +Forster states that Dickens “had himself a satisfaction in admitting the +identity of Mr. Fang, in ‘Oliver Twist,’ with Mr. Laing of Hatton +Garden.” In a letter (now in possession of Mr. S. R. Goodman, of +Brighton) written to Mr. Haines, Reporter, June 3rd, 1838, Dickens writes +as follows:— + + “In my next number of ‘Oliver Twist’ I must have a magistrate; and, + casting about for a magistrate whose harshness and insolence would + render him a fit subject to be _shown up_, I have as a necessary + consequence stumbled upon Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden celebrity. I + know the man’s character perfectly well; but as it would be necessary + to describe his personal appearance also, I ought to have seen him, + which (fortunately or unfortunately as the case may be) I have never + done. In this dilemma it occurred to me that perhaps I might under + your auspices be smuggled into the Hatton Garden office for a few + moments some morning. If you can further my object I shall be really + very greatly obliged to you.” + +“The opportunity was found; the magistrate was brought up before the +novelist; and shortly after, on some fresh outbreak of intolerable +temper, the Home Secretary found it an easy and popular step to remove +Mr. Laing from the Bench.” + +Returning to GREAT SAFFRON HILL, we may recall its description as given +in the days of “Oliver Twist”— + + “The street was very narrow and muddy, and the air was impregnated + with filthy odours. The sole places that seemed to prosper amid the + general blight of the place were the public-houses, and in them the + lowest orders of the Irish were wrangling with might and main. + Covered ways and yards, which here and there diverged from the main + street, disclosed little knots of houses where drunken men and women + were positively wallowing in filth.” + +Field Lane, in the immediate vicinity, _was_ + + “Near to that spot on which Snow Hill and Holborn Hill meet . . a + narrow dismal alley leading to Saffron Hill. In its filthy shops are + exposed for sale huge bunches of second-hand silk handkerchiefs of + all sizes and patterns, for here reside the traders who purchase them + from the pickpockets.” + +This place has been effaced by the Holborn Valley improvements, and we +may now look in vain for the precise locality of the house of _Fagin_ the +Jew. In this neighbourhood also was situated “The Three Cripples,” a +public-house of evil repute patronised by Sykes, Fagin, and Monks. We +may recall the circumstance of _Mr. Morris Bolter’s_ (_alias_ Noah +Claypole’s) arrival at this house, when he and _Charlotte_ first came to +London, and of his subsequent interview with the wily Jew. + +It is pleasant to remark that Saffron Hill has greatly improved in its +character since the above-quoted description was correct. It now affords +accommodation for the headquarters of the _Central Shoeblacks’ Society_ +(as established under the auspices of the late Earl of Shaftesbury), and +about midway in the street where thieves “did once inhabit,” a large +_Board School_ is doing good educational service for the elevation of the +humbler classes. + +Turning from Great Saffron Hill westward by the _One Tun_ public-house, +we come into _Charles Street_, on the south side of which, towards Hatton +Garden, is Bleeding Hart Yard (entrance by the Bleeding Hart Tavern, No. +19). This locality is associated with the tale of “Little Dorrit.” It +will be remembered that here the factory of _Messrs. Doyce and Clennam_ +was situated, and here also resided _Mr. and Mrs. Plornish_, the humble +friends of the Dorrit family. In these degenerate days the place has +much altered, and the amiable _Mr. Casby_ would certainly find it more +difficult than ever to collect his weekly dues, even by the agency of his +energetic assistant, Mr. Pancks. + +Passing from this unpretending locality, we come (at No. 8) into _Hatton +Garden_, which leads southward to _Holborn Circus_. + +In Hatton Garden, on the east side, can be observed (No. 20) the +old-established warehouse of Messrs. Rowland and Son. In this connection +there may be remembered the mad old gentleman “in small clothes,” who +lived next door to the _Nicklebys_, at Bow. On the only occasion of his +visiting the family indoors, he incidentally referred to “Mrs. Rowland, +who, every morning, bathes in Kalydor for nothing.”—See “Nicholas +Nickleby,” chapter 49. + +Mr. Waterbrook’s establishment, situated in _Ely Place_, _Holborn_, is +entitled to passing mention as the place where David and his friend +Traddles met each other for the first time after their schoolboy days, on +the occasion of a dinner-party, at which also _Agnes Wickfield_ and +_Uriah Heep_ attended. Ely Place is situated on the north side of +HOLBORN CIRCUS, and once comprised the rose garden of the Bishop of Ely, +afterwards leased to Sir Christopher Hatton. + +On the opposite side of the Circus, and near to St. Andrew’s Church, is +situated Thavies Inn, in which _Mrs. Jellyby_ and family resided, in the +days when her daughter _Caddy_ acted as amanuensis _in re_ the affairs of +Borrioboola-Gha. + +It is described in “Bleak House” as being + + “A narrow street of high houses like an oblong cistern to hold the + fog.” + +The house No. 13, on the right, has been indicated as once the disorderly +residence of the Jellyby family. We may recollect it as the place where +_Esther Summerson_ and _Ada_ were accommodated for their first night in +London, on which occasion little unfortunate _Peepy_ was found with his +head between the area railings, and the house generally turned upside +down; while Mrs. Jellyby serenely dictated her correspondence in the +family sitting-room, altogether oblivious of such minor domestic +accidents. + +Esther thus narrates her first impressions:— + + “Mrs. Jellyby had very good hair, but was too much occupied with her + African duties to brush it. The shawl in which she had been loosely + muffled dropped on to her chair, when she advanced towards us; and, + as she turned to resume her seat, we could not help noticing that her + dress didn’t nearly meet up the back, and that the open space was + railed across with a lattice work of staylace—like a summer house. . + . . ‘You find me, my dears,’ said Mrs. Jellyby, ‘as usual, very + busy; but that you will excuse. The African project at present + employs my whole time. . . . We hope by this time next year to have + from a hundred and fifty to two hundred healthy families cultivating + coffee and educating the natives of Borrioboola-Gha, on the left bank + of the Niger.”—See “Bleak House,” chapter 4. + +_The Buffet of Messrs. Spiers and Pond_ will be found a short distance +eastward from Holborn Circus, on the right, next the terminus of the +London, Chatham, and Dover railway. A visit to its welcome “contiguity +of shade” is confidently recommended to those who may be disposed for +necessary rest and refreshment. + + + + +RAMBLE IV +_Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court Road_ + + +Langdale’s Distillery—Barnard’s Inn; Pip’s Chambers—Furnival’s Inn; +Dickens’s and John Westlock’s Apartments—Staple Inn; Mr. Grewgious’s +Chambers, P.J.T.; Rooms of Neville Landless and Mr. Tartar; “The Magic +Bean-Stalk Country”—Gray’s Inn; Mr. and Mrs. Traddles and “the girls;” +Offices of Mr. Perker—The Bull Inn; Scene of Lewsome’s Illness—Kingsgate +Street; Poll Sweedlepipe’s Shop; Sairey Gamp’s Apartments—Mrs. +Billickin’s Lodgings in Southampton Street; Miss Twinkleton and Rosa +Budd—Bloomsbury Square; Lord Mansfield’s Residence—Queen Square—The +Children’s Hospital; Johnny’s Will—Foundling Hospital; “No Thoroughfare;” +Walter Wilding—“The Boot Tavern”—No. 48 Doughty Street—Tavistock House, +Tavistock Square—Mrs. Dickens’s Establishment, No. 4 Gower Street, North; +Mrs. Wilfer’s Doorplate—No. 1 Devonshire Terrace—Mr. Merdle’s House, +Harley Street—Mr. Dombey’s House—Madame Mantalini’s, Wigmore +Street—Wimpole Street; Mr. Boffin’s West-end Residence—Welbeck Street; +Lord George Gordon’s Residence—Brook Street, Claridge’s Hotel; Mr. +Dorrit’s Return—Devonshire House; Guild of Literature and Art—Hatchett’s +Hotel; White Horse Cellars; Mr. Guppy in attendance—193 Piccadilly; +Messrs. Chapman and Hall—Golden Square; Ralph Nickleby’s +Office—Apartments of the Kenwigs family—The Crown Inn—“Martha’s” +Lodgings—Newman Street; Mr. Turveydrop’s Academy—Carlisle House; Doctor +Manette and Lucie. + +From HOLBORN CIRCUS the Rambler now proceeds westward by the main +thoroughfare of _Holborn_, passing _Fetter Lane_ on the left, and arrives +at (No. 26) the old premises, now partially rebuilt, formerly Langdale’s +Distillery. Half of the same remains (at the moment), but will shortly +be superseded by a modern building. The eastern portion is occupied by +Messrs. Buchanan, whisky merchants, who have recently purchased the +premises. This establishment was sacked (1780) by the Gordon rioters. +Mr. Langdale being a Catholic, was obnoxious to the No-Popery mob; and +the stores of liquor at this distillery afforded an additional temptation +for the attack. The terrible scenes enacted on the occasion are +powerfully described in “Barnaby Rudge,” chapters 67 and 68— + + “At this place a large detachment of soldiery were posted, who fired, + now up Fleet Market, now up Holborn, now up Snow Hill—constantly + raking the streets in each direction. At this place too, several + large fires were burning, so that all the terrors of that terrible + night seemed to be concentrated in one spot. + + “Full twenty times, the rioters, headed by one man who wielded an axe + in his right hand, and bestrode a brewer’s horse of great size and + strength, caparisoned with fetters taken out of Newgate, which + clanked and jingled as he went, made an attempt to force a passage at + this point, and fire the vintner’s house. Full twenty times they + were repulsed with loss of life, and still came back again; and + though the fellow at their head was marked and singled out by all, + and was a conspicuous object as the only rioter on horseback, not a + man could hit him. . . . + + “The vintner’s house, with half-a-dozen others near at hand, was one + great, glowing blaze. All night, no one had essayed to quench the + flames, or stop their progress; but now a body of soldiers were + actively engaged in pulling down two old wooden houses, which were + every moment in danger of taking fire, and which could scarcely fail, + if they were left to burn, to extend the conflagration immensely. + + “. . . The gutters of the street, and every crack and fissure in the + stones, ran with scorching spirit, which being dammed up by busy + hands, overflowed the road and pavement, and formed a great pool, + into which the people dropped down dead by dozens. They lay in heaps + all round this fearful pond, husbands and wives, fathers and sons, + mothers and daughters, women with children in their arms and babies + at their breasts, and drank until they died. While some stooped with + their lips to the brink and never raised their heads again, others + sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced, half in a mad + triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell, and + steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them. . . . + + “On this last night of the great riots—for the last night it was—the + wretched victims of a senseless outcry, became themselves the dust + and ashes of the flames they had kindled, and strewed the public + streets of London.” + +It will be remembered that Mr. Langdale and Mr. Haredale, being in the +house that night, were rescued by Edward Chester and Joe Willett, all +four finding their way to safety by a back entrance. + + “The narrow lane in the rear was quite free of people. So, when they + had crawled through the passage indicated by the vintner (which was a + mere shelving-trap for the admission of casks), and had managed with + some difficulty to unchain and raise the door at the upper end, they + emerged into the street without being observed or interrupted. Joe + still holding Mr. Haredale tight, and Edward taking the same care of + the vintner, they hurried through the streets at a rapid pace.” + +This door gives into Fetter Lane (No. 79), and still exists for the +inspection of the curious. The old house in Holborn has, for more than a +century, replaced the premises so destroyed. Close at hand (by No. 23) +is the entrance to Barnard’s Inn— + + “The dingiest collection of shabby buildings ever squeezed together + in a rank corner as a club for tom-cats.” + +The locality is referred to in these complimentary terms by Mr. Pip (in +the pages of “Great Expectations”), who lived here with his friend +Herbert Pocket for a short time when he first came to London. Mr. Joe +Gargery’s verdict is worth remembrance:— + + “The present may be a wery good inn, and I believe its character do + stand i; but I wouldn’t keep a pig in it myself, not in the case that + I wished him to fatten wholesome, and to eat with a meller flavour on + him.” + +Pip further describes as follows:— + + “We entered this haven through a wicket-gate, and were disgorged by + an introductory passage into a melancholy little square that looked + to me like a flat burying-ground. I thought it had the most dismal + trees in it, and the most dismal sparrows, and the most dismal cats, + and the most dismal houses (in number half-a-dozen or so), that I had + ever seen. . . . A frowzy mourning of soot and smoke attired this + forlorn creation of Barnard, and it had strewed ashes on its head, + and was undergoing penance and humiliation as a mere dust-hole. Thus + for my sense of sight; while dry rot, and wet rot, and all the silent + rots that rot in neglected root and cellar—rot of rat, and mouse, and + bug, and coaching stables near at hand besides—addressed themselves + faintly to my sense of smell, and moaned, ‘Try Barnard’s Mixture.’” + +Great alterations are now (1899) being carried out; the old buildings—as +above referred to by Mr. Pip—have been demolished, and a new and better +arrangement of the locality is in active progress for the improvement of +the neighbourhood. + +On the opposite side of Holborn are the handsome and extensive offices of +THE PRUDENTIAL ASSURANCE COMPANY. These premises, with their frontage, +occupy the site of FURNIVAL’S INN, which has recently disappeared, having +been pulled down to make room for the extension of the Assurance offices +above referred to—_Sic transit memoria mundi_. + +Furnival’s Inn was an interesting locality, as associated with the +earlier experience of Mr. Dickens himself. Here the young author resided +in 1835, the year previous to the production of the “Pickwick Papers,” +the first number of that work being published April 1, 1836. On the day +following that notable date, Mr. Dickens married Miss Catherine Hogarth; +and for some time the young couple resided on the third floor apartments +at _No._ 15 _Furnival’s Inn_—on the right side of the square. A personal +reminiscence of these early days is no doubt intended in chapter 59 of +“David Copperfield;” a pleasant description being there given of the +residential chambers of Mr. and Mrs. Traddles, as located in Gray’s Inn +just beyond. + +_Mr. John Westlock_ had his bachelor apartments in this same place at +Furnival’s Inn (_vide_ “Martin Chuzzlewit”), and here he received the +unexpected visit of Tom Pinch on his first arrival in London. We may +remember the incidents of that cordial welcome, when + + “John was constantly running backwards and forwards to and from the + closet, bringing out all sorts of things in pots, scooping + extraordinary quantities of tea out of the caddy, dropping French + rolls into his boots, pouring hot water over the butter, and making a + variety of similar mistakes, without disconcerting himself in the + least.” + +In the centre of the interior square, standing within the precincts of +Furnival’s Inn during the past seventy-five years, and flourishing in +recent days—a quiet oasis of retirement and good cheer amidst the bustle +and noise of central London—there existed (until 1895) Woods’ Hotel. +This hotel was associated with “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” being the +house at which Mr. Grewgious found accommodation for the charming Rosa +Budd (on the occasion of her flight from the importunities of Jasper at +Cloisterham), including an “unlimited head chambermaid” for her special +behoof and benefit. + + “Rosa’s room was airy, clean, comfortable, almost gay. The Unlimited + had laid in everything omitted from the very little bag (that is to + say, everything she could possibly need), and Rosa tripped down the + great many stairs again, to thank her guardian for his thoughtful and + affectionate care of her. + + “‘Not at all, my dear,’ said Mr. Grewgious, infinitely gratified; ‘it + is I who thank you for your charming confidence and for your charming + company. Your breakfast will be provided for you in a neat, compact, + and graceful little sitting-room (appropriate to your figure), and I + will come to you at ten o’clock in the morning. I hope you don’t + feel very strange indeed, in this strange place.’ + + “‘Oh no, I feel so safe!’ + + “‘Yes, you may be sure that the stairs are fire-proof,’ said Mr. + Grewgious, ‘and that any outbreak of the devouring element would be + perceived and suppressed by the watchmen.’ + + “‘I did not mean that,’ Rosa replied. ‘I mean, I feel so safe from + him.’ + + “‘There is a stout gate of iron bars to keep him out,’ said Mr. + Grewgious smiling; ‘and Furnival’s is fire-proof, and specially + watched and lighted, and _I_ live over the way!’ In the stoutness of + his knight-errantry, he seemed to think the last-named protection + all-sufficient. In the same spirit he said to the gate-porter as he + went out, ‘If some one staying in the hotel should wish to send + across the road to me in the night, a crown will be ready for the + messenger.’ In the same spirit, he walked up and down outside the + iron gate for the best part of an hour, with some solicitude; + occasionally looking in between the bars, as if he had laid a dove in + a high roost in a cage of lions, and had it on his mind that she + might tumble out.” + +The Hotel was originally built 1818–19, and was enlarged as recently as +1884. Woods was the proprietor for fifty years. + +Crossing to the other side of the street, at a short distance onwards, +opposite Gray’s Inn Road, the Rambler reaches (by No. 334 High Holborn) +the gateway of Staple Inn; a little nook, composed of two irregular +quadrangles behind the most ancient part of Holborn, where certain gabled +houses, some centuries of age, still stand looking on the public way. +Staple Inn was the favourite summer promenade of the meditative _Mr. +Snagsby_ (see “Bleak House”); and in this Inn _Mr. Grewgious_ occupied a +set of chambers. The house is No. 10, in the inner quadrangle, +“presenting in black and white, over its ugly portal, the mysterious +inscription, ‘P. J. T., 1747.’ Perhaps John Thomas, or Perhaps Joe +Tyler.” And, under certain social conditions, “for a certainty, P. J. T. +was Pretty Jolly Too.” _Neville Landless_ also had rooms in this +locality; the top set in the corner (on the right), overlooking the +garden “where a few smoky sparrows twitter in the smoky trees, as though +they had called to each other, ‘let us play at country.’” Close to these +lived _Mr. Tartar_, in “the neatest, the cleanest, and the best-ordered +chambers ever seen under the sun, moon, and stars.” And we may recall +the writer’s delicate treatment of this, the blushing “beanstalk country” +of dear little Rosa Budd. For the several associations herewith +connected, reference should be made to our author’s last book, “The +Mystery of Edwin Drood.”—See concluding paragraphs of chapter 21:— + + “Rosa wondered what the girls would say if they could see her + crossing the wide street on the sailor’s arm. And she fancied that + the passers-by must think her very little and very helpless, + contrasted with the strong figure that could have caught her up and + carried her out of any danger, miles and miles without resting. + + “She was thinking further, that his far-seeing blue eyes looked as if + they had been used to watch danger afar off, and to watch it without + flinching, drawing nearer and nearer: when, happening to raise her + own eyes, she found that he seemed to be thinking something about + _them_. + + “This a little confused Rosebud, and may account for her never + afterwards quite knowing how she ascended (with his help) to his + garden in the air, and seemed to get into a marvellous country that + came into sudden bloom like the country on the summit of the magic + bean-stalk. May it flourish for ever!” + + [Picture: Doorway in Staple Inn] + +In this connection, the reader may be interested in chapter 22; the first +part of which deals most tenderly and beautifully with “love’s awaking,” +in the heart of the innocent heroine. + +Recrossing to the other side of High Holborn, past _Gray’s Inn Road_ (on +the north), at No. 22, we reach the gateway of GRAY’S INN. At No. 2 +South Square (formerly Holborn Court) we may find the upper chambers +formerly occupied by _Mr. Traddles_ and his wife _Sophy_, whose domestic +arrangements included accommodation for “the beauty” and the other +Devonshire sisters. Copperfield says, in the chapter before referred +to:— + + “If I had beheld a thousand roses blowing in a top set of chambers, + in that withered Gray’s Inn, they could not have brightened it half + so much. The idea of those Devonshire girls, among the dry + law-stationers, and the attorneys’ offices; and of the tea and toast, + and children’s songs, in that grim atmosphere of pounce and + parchment, red-tape, dusty wafers, ink-jars, brief and draft paper, + law reports, writs, declarations, and bills of costs, seemed almost + as pleasantly fanciful as if I had dreamed that the Sultan’s famous + family had been admitted on the roll of attorneys, and had brought + the talking-bird, the singing-tree, and the Golden water into Gray’s + Inn Hall.” + +The offices of _Mr. Perker_, the legal adviser of Mr. Pickwick, were also +located in Gray’s Inn. We read that the “outer door” of these chambers +was to be found “after climbing two pairs of steep and dirty stairs;” but +no indication is given of their exact situation. + +Proceeding westward from Gray’s Inn, and passing the stately, elegant, +and commodious _First Avenue Hotel_, between Warwick Court and Brownlow +Street, and a half-a-dozen side streets beyond, we come, on the north +side, at No. 92, to the Bull and Anchor Tavern. This is the house known +in the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit” as “_The Bull Inn_,” then a more +important hostelry than at present. It will be remembered as the inn at +which Mr. Lewsome, during his illness, was professionally attended by +_Sairey Gamp_ and _Betsy Prig_, “turn and turn about.” + +Passing on to the next turning but one, we reach Kingsgate Street, where +_Poll Sweedlepipes_—barber and bird-fancier—once had his business +location, “next door but one to the celebrated mutton-pie shop, and +directly opposite the original cat’s-meat warehouse.” At this place the +immortal _Mrs. Gamp_ had lodgings on the first floor, where she + + “Was easily assailed at night by pebbles, walking-sticks, and + fragments of tobacco pipes, all much more efficacious than the + street-door knocker, which was so constructed as to wake the street + with ease, and even spread alarms of fire in Holborn, without making + the smallest impression on the premises to which it was addressed.” + +It is recollected in the neighbourhood that, fifty years since, a barber +by the name of Patterson (who was also a bird-dealer) lived in this +street, at the second house on the left. The shop has been pulled down, +is now absorbed by the corner premises in Holborn, and can be only +identified by its position. Here, then, did _Mr. Pecksniff_ arrive on +his doleful mission, in accordance with the recommendation of _Mr. +Mould_, the undertaker, with regard to the death of old _Anthony +Chuzzlewit_; and here did that memorable teapot cause a lasting +difference between two friends, as narrated in chapter 49 of “Martin +Chuzzlewit.” “This world-famous personage, Mrs. Gamp, has passed into +and become one with the language” whose vernacular she has adorned with +her own flowers of speech. As Mr. Forster remarks, “she will remain +among the everlasting triumphs of fiction, a superb masterpiece of +English humour.” “Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale, her infinite +variety.” At the Holborn corner of Kingsgate Street we may remember _Mr. +Bailey_, _junior_, on the occasion when, at this exact spot, he collided +with Poll Sweedlepipes, afterwards going “round and round in circles on +the pavement,” the better to exhibit to Poll’s admiring gaze his +fashionable livery as Tiger in the service of _Mr. Montague Tigg_, +“rather to the inconvenience of the passengers generally, who were not in +an equal state of spirits with himself.” + +The next turning but one, westward, on the right, by the West Central +Post Office (No. 126), is Southampton Street, leading to Bloomsbury +Square. + +Here it will be remembered that lodgings were taken by Mr. Grewgious for +_Miss Twinkleton_ and Rosa, of the redoubtable _Mrs. Billickin_, “the +person of the ’ouse,” who, from prudential motives, suppressed her +Christian name. + + “Mr. Grewgious had his agreement-lines and his earnest-money ready. + ‘I have signed it for the ladies, ma’am,’ he said, ‘and you’ll have + the goodness to sign it for yourself, Christian and Surname, there, + if you please.’ + + “‘Mr. Grewgious,’ said Mrs. Billickin in a new burst of candour, ‘no, + sir! You must excuse the Christian name.’ + + “Mr. Grewgious stared at her. + + “‘The door-plate is used as a protection,’ said Mrs. Billickin, ‘and + acts as such, and go from it I will not.’ + + “Mr. Grewgious stared at Rosa. + + “‘No, Mr. Grewgious, you must excuse me. So long as this ’ouse is + known indefinite as Billickin’s, and so long as it is a doubt with + the riff-raff where Billickin may be hidin’, near the street-door or + down the airy, and what his weight and size, so long I feel safe. + But commit myself to a solitary female statement, no, Miss! Nor + would you for a moment wish,’ said Mrs. Billickin, with a strong + sense of injury, ‘to take that advantage of your sex, if you were not + brought to it by inconsiderate example.’ + + “Rosa reddening as if she had made some most disgraceful attempt to + overreach the good lady, besought Mr. Grewgious to rest content with + any signature. And accordingly, in a baronial way, the sign-manual + BILLICKIN got appended to the document.” + +And we may here recall the incidental passage of arms between the worthy +landlady and Miss Twinkleton, Mrs. B. being always in direct antagonism +with the schoolmistress, against whom she “openly pitted herself as one +whom she fully ascertained to be her natural enemy.” Witness “the B. +enveloped in the shawl of State,” as she remarked to Miss Twinkleton that + + “‘A rush from scanty feeding to generous feeding, from what you may + call messing to what you may call method, do require a power of + constitution, which is not often found in youth, particular when + undermined by boarding-school. . . . I was put in youth to a very + genteel boarding-school, the mistress being no less a lady than + yourself, of about your own age, or it may be some years younger, and + a poorness of blood flowed from the table, which has run through my + life.’ + + * * * * * + + “‘If you refer to the poverty of your circulation,’ began Miss + Twinkleton, when again the Billickin neatly stopped her. + + “‘I have used no such expressions.’ + + “‘If you refer, then, to the poorness of your blood—’ + + “‘Brought upon me,’ stipulated the Billickin, expressly, ‘at a + boarding-school—’ + + “‘Then,’ resumed Miss Twinkleton, ‘all I can say is, that I am bound + to believe, on your asseveration, that it is very poor indeed. I + cannot forbear adding, that if that unfortunate circumstance + influences your conversation, it is much to be lamented, and it is + eminently desirable that your blood were richer.’” + +Southampton Street is not a long one, and is now chiefly occupied by +solicitors and architects; but there is reason to believe that the +Billickins’ residence was, aforetime, to be found at No. 18, which is +situated next door but one to an archway. As Mrs. B. herself candidly +pointed out, + + “The arching leads to a mews; mewses must exist.” + +The mews aforesaid is now superseded by a factory. Mrs. Billickin has +long since relinquished the cares of housekeeping and retired from public +life. The present amiable landlady conducts the business on different +principles, and will be at all times disposed to give her patrons +satisfaction, whether they be of the scholastic persuasion or otherwise. + +Southampton Street leads immediately northward into Bloomsbury Square. +This place is mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the locality in which _Lord +Mansfield’s_ residence was situated at the period of the Gordon Riots. +In chapter 66 its destruction by the rioters is thus described:— + + “They began to demolish the house with great fury; and setting fire + to it in several places, involved in a common ruin the whole of the + costly furniture, the plate and jewels, a beautiful gallery of + pictures, the rarest collection of manuscripts ever possessed by any + one private person in the world, and, worst of all, because nothing + could replace the loss, the great Law Library, on almost every page + of which were notes, in the judge’s own hand, of inestimable value; + being the results of the study and experience of his whole life.” + + [Picture: The Children’s Hospital] + +The house occupied the site of No. 29, on the east side of the square. +We subsequently read in the same book that two of the +rioters—cripples—were hanged in this square, the execution being +momentarily delayed, as they were placed facing the house they had +assisted to despoil. Leaving the square at its north-east angle (right) +by _Bloomsbury Place_, the Rambler shortly comes into _Southampton Row_, +turning left, and proceeding for a short distance upwards to _Cosmo +Place_ on the right, a short cut which leads directly to the contiguous +shades of Queen Square just beyond. It will be remembered that in this +neighbourhood Richard Carstone had furnished apartments at the time when +he was pursuing the experimental study of the Law under the auspices of +Messrs. Kenge and Carboy (see “Bleak House,” chapter 18). There is +reason to believe that the “quiet old” house intended was No. 28 +_Devonshire Street_, leading from the south-east angle of the square. + +Leaving Queen Square by _Great Ormond Street_ (eastward), we immediately +arrive, on the north side (No. 50), at The Children’s Hospital, adjacent +to the Catholic Church and Convent of St. John. In 1858, February 9th, a +public dinner was arranged, by way of charitable appeal, for funds +necessary to carry on and develop the work. It was happily resolved to +invite Charles Dickens to preside on that occasion, and he “threw himself +into the service heart and soul.” His earnest, pathetic, but powerful +appeal—“majestic in its own simplicity”—that night added more than £3000 +to the treasury, which amount was, two months afterwards, substantially +increased by the proceeds of a public reading of his “Christmas Carol.” +It is pleasant to record that this institution has ever since flourished +amain, thus fulfilling the prediction of Dickens when, suggesting that +the enterprise could not be possibly maintained unless the Hospital were +made better known, he continued as follows:— + + “I limit myself to saying—better known, because I will not believe + that, in a Christian community of fathers and mothers, and brothers + and sisters, it can fail, being better known, to be well and richly + endowed.” + +We may here recall the scene narrated in chapter 9 of “Our Mutual +Friend,” when _Johnny_ makes his will and arranges his affairs, leaving +“a kiss for the boofer lady”— + + “The family whom God had brought together were not all asleep, but + were all quiet. From bed to bed, a light womanly tread and a + pleasant fresh face passed in the silence of the night. A little + head would lift itself into the softened light here and there, to be + kissed as the face went by—for these little patients are very + loving—and would then submit itself to be composed to rest again. . . + . Over most of the beds, the toys were yet grouped as the children + had left them when they last laid themselves down, and in their + innocent grotesqueness and incongruity they might have stood for the + children’s dreams.” + +Proceeding eastward by _Great Ormond Street_ and turning (left) through +_Lamb’s Conduit Street_, to its northern end, we face the entrance of the +Foundling Hospital. This beneficent institution was established by +Captain Thomas Coram, about the middle of the last century, and is +associated with “No Thoroughfare,” the Christmas number (and last in the +series) of “All the Year Round,” 1867. Visitors attending the morning +service of the _Foundling Church_ on Sundays are admitted to the +children’s _Dining-Hall_ thereafter, and so may have an opportunity of +realising the scene portrayed by Dickens, when the “veiled lady” induced +a female attendant to point out Walter Wilding:— + + “The bright autumnal sun strikes freshly into the wards; and the + heavy-framed windows through which it shines, and the panelled walls + on which it shines, are such windows, and such walls as pervade + Hogarth’s pictures. Neat attendants silently glide about the orderly + and silent tables, the lookers-on move or stop as the fancy takes + them; comments in whispers on face such a number, from such a window, + are not unfrequent—many of the faces are of a character to fix + attention. Some of the visitors from the outside public are + accustomed visitors. They have established a speaking acquaintance + with the occupants of particular seats at the table, and halt at + those points to say a word or two.” + +In “Little Dorrit,” too, reference is made to this institution, _in re_ +the adoption of Tattycoram by good Papa and Mamma Meagles. In the times +of Barnaby Rudge, the London streets were not greatly extended northward +beyond this (now central) neighbourhood. We may remember that the +headquarters of the “Captain,” Sim Tappertit, Hugh, and Dennis were at +The “Boot” Tavern, which is described as + + “A lone place of public entertainment, situated in the fields at the + back of the Foundling Hospital; a very solitary spot at that period, + and quite deserted after dark. The Tavern stood at some distance + from any high road, and was only approachable by a dark and narrow + lane.” + +Proceeding onwards through _Guilford Street_, we reach _Doughty Street_, +_Mecklenburgh Square_, running transversely north and south. On the east +side we may note No. 48 Doughty Street, as the house to which Dickens +removed from _Furnival’s Inn_, in the early spring of 1837, and in which +he lived two years and a half, previous to his longer residence at _No._ +1 _Devonshire Terrace_. In it “Oliver Twist” and “Nicholas Nickleby” +were written; and here, too, the early friendship, which had been for +some time steadily developing between Dickens and Forster, became +cemented for life. His biographer says:— + + “Nor had many weeks passed before he addressed to me from Doughty + Street, words which it is my sorrowful pride to remember have had + literal fulfilment. ‘I look back with unmingled pleasure to every + link which each ensuing week has added to the chain of our + attachment. It shall go hard, I hope, ere anything but death impairs + the toughness of a bond now so firmly riveted.’” + +The route being retraced to the Foundling Hospital, and thence continued +through Guilford Street to _Russell __Square_, we turn (right) by _Woburn +Place_ to TAVISTOCK SQUARE, on the south side of which (TAVISTOCK VILLAS) +is situated Tavistock House. To this residence Dickens removed (from +DEVONSHIRE TERRACE) in October 1851, retaining its possession for nearly +ten years. During this time “Bleak House” was completed, and “Hard +Times,” “Little Dorrit,” and the “Tale of Two Cities” were given to the +world. TAVISTOCK HOUSE is now transformed into a Jewish College. _Hans +Christian Andersen_, visiting his friend in London, gives the following +description:— + + “In Tavistock Square stands Tavistock House. This and the strip of + garden in front of it are shut out from the thoroughfare by an iron + railing. A large garden, with a grass plat and high trees, stretches + behind the house, and gives it a countrified look in the midst of + this coal and gas steaming London. In the passage from street to + garden hung pictures and engravings. Here stood a marble bust of + Dickens, so like him, so youthful and handsome; and over a bedroom + door were inserted the bas-reliefs of Night and Day, after + Thorwaldsen. On the first floor was a rich library, with a fireplace + and a writing-table, looking out on the garden; and here it was that + in winter Dickens and his friends acted plays to the satisfaction of + all parties. The kitchen was underground, and at the top of the + house were the bedrooms.” + + [Picture: Tavistock House] + +Leaving this locality at the north-west angle, passing _Gordon Square_, +we turn (right) into _Gordon Street_, and (left) through _Gower Place_, +to GOWER STREET, on the west side of which—opposite—is the house once +bearing a large brass plate on the door, announcing Mrs. Dickens’s +Establishment, being the place at which Mrs. Dickens (mother of Charles) +endeavoured to set up a school during the difficult times of 1822. The +family lived here for a short time, previous to the Marshalsea +imprisonment of Dickens senior; Charles being then a boy ten years of +age. In the first chapter of Forster’s Biography is the following:— + + “A house was soon found at number four, Gower Street North; a large + brass plate on the door announced Mrs. Dickens’s establishment; and + the result I can give in the exact words of the then small actor in + the comedy, whose hopes it had raised so high: ‘I left at a great + many other doors a great many circulars, calling attention to the + merits of the establishment. Yet nobody ever came to school, nor do + I recollect that anybody ever proposed to come, or that the least + preparation was made to receive anybody. But, I know that we got on + very badly with the butcher and baker; that very often we had not too + much for dinner; and that at last my father was arrested.’ . . . + Almost everything by degrees was pawned or sold, little Charles being + the principal agent in these sorrowful transactions . . . until at + last, even of the furniture of Gower Street, number four, there was + nothing left except a few chairs, a kitchen table, and some beds. + Then they encamped, as it were, in the two parlours of the emptied + house, and lived there night and day.” + +Gower Street has been rearranged since that time (there is now no Gower +Street North), and the houses are renumbered. No. 145, near _Gower +Street Chapel_, and other houses adjoining, are now in the occupation of +Messrs. Maple & Co.; and this No. 145 was the house then enumerated as +No. 4 Gower Street North. Mrs. Dickens’s experience, it will be +remembered, has been pleasantly referred to in the pages of “Our Mutual +Friend;” the stately _Mrs. Wilfer_ therein making a similar experiment, +with the same result. In chapter 4 we read of _Rumpty’s_ return home +from business: when + + “Something had gone wrong with the house door, for R. Wilfer stopped + on the steps, staring at it, and cried ‘Hal-loa?’ ‘Yes,’ said Mrs. + Wilfer, ‘the man came himself with a pair of pincers and took it off, + and took it away. He said that as he had no expectation of ever + being paid for it, and as he had an order for another _Ladies’ + School_ door-plate, it was better (burnished up) for the interests of + all parties.’” + +On the opposite corner of the street is the _Gower Street Station_ of the +Metropolitan Railway, at which train may be taken to _Baker Street_. On +arrival, we turn to the right, by _Marylebone Road_, to Devonshire +Terrace, consisting of three houses at the northern end of _High +Street_,_ Marylebone_. No. 1, now occupied by a legal firm, was for +twelve years the residence of Charles Dickens (when in town). It is +described by Forster as + + “A handsome house with a garden of considerable size, shut out from + the New Road by a brick wall, facing the York Gate into Regent’s + Park.” + +To quote the ironical dictum of its future tenant when the choice was +made, it was “a house of great promise (and great premium), undeniable +situation, and excessive splendour.” During the period of the author’s +residence here several of his best-known books were given to the +world—“Master Humphrey’s Clock,” CHRISTMAS BOOKS, and “David Copperfield” +included. Proceeding forwards and eastward past _Devonshire Place_, we +may take our way, turning on the right down Harley Street, of which we +read in “Little Dorrit” that, + + “Like unexceptionable society, the opposing rows of houses in Harley + Street were very grim with one another. Indeed, the mansions and + their inhabitants were so much alike in that respect that the people + were often to be found drawn up on opposite sides of dinner tables, + in the shade of their own loftiness, staring at the other side of the + way with the dulness of the houses. Everybody knows how like the + street the two dinner-rows of people who take their stand by the + street will be. The expressionless uniform twenty houses, all to be + knocked at and rung at in the same form, all approachable by the same + dull steps, all fended off by the same pattern of railing, all with + the same impracticable fire-escapes, the same inconvenient fixtures + in their heads, and everything, without exception, to be taken at a + high valuation—who has not dined with these?” + +In this street lived that great financier and swindler _Mr. Merdle_, who +had his residence in one of the handsomest of these handsome houses; but +it would be, perhaps, invidious to point out any particular location for +the same, Dickens himself having purposely omitted an exact address. +Following the course of Harley Street, we come in due time to QUEEN ANNE +STREET, running east and west. Adopting the leftward turning (east), we +may find at the next corner—_Mansfield Street_—on the north side, Mr. +Dombey’s House, as described in chapter 3 of “Dombey and Son”— + + “Mr. Dombey’s house was a large one, on the shady side of a tall, + dark, dreadfully genteel street in the region between Portland Place + and Bryanston Square. It was a corner house, with great wide areas + containing cellars, frowned upon by barred windows, and leered at by + crooked-eyed doors leading to dust-bins. It was a house of dismal + state, with a circular back to it, containing a whole suite of + drawing-rooms looking upon a gravelled yard.” + +It will be observed that the position and character of this mansion +exactly correspond to the above description, being in its general style +noteworthy and unique. This, then, was the private establishment and +“home department” of the Dombey family, where died the gentle Paul; the +lonely house in which the neglected Florence grew to lovely womanhood; +what time the second wife—the stately Edith—held temporary sway. + +Hence a short distance southward leads to _Cavendish Square_. In this +neighbourhood we read that Madame Mantalini’s fashionable dressmaking +establishment was situated, at which Kate Nickleby was for some few weeks +engaged, on the recommendation of her uncle. The house intended was +probably in _Wigmore Street_, No. 11. In the days of the Mantalini +_régime_ the business was advertised + + “To the nobility and gentry by the casual exhibition, near the + handsomely-curtained windows, of two or three elegant bonnets of the + newest fashion, and some costly garments in the most approved taste.” + +By the next turning (right) on the north side we come into WIMPOLE +STREET; on the east of which, at the corner of the third block, stands +The West End Residence—No. 43—aforetime occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Boffin; +which became, later on, the property of Mr. John Harmon and his wife. It +is described as “a corner house, not far from Cavendish Square.” Near +this house _Silas Wegg_—assuming some knowledge of its affairs—kept his +street-stall. He was accustomed to refer to it as “Our House,” its +(imaginary) inmates being Miss Elizabeth, Master George, Aunt Jane, and +Uncle Parker. + +Returning to Wigmore Street, we arrive by the next block at Welbeck +Street, running transversely thereto. In this street was the London +residence of _Lord George Gordon_, as referred to in the pages of +“Barnaby Rudge.” The house is No. 64, the second from Wigmore Street on +the left side. It is within the recollection of the present landlord +that the old balcony—from which Lord George was wont to harangue the +public—was many years since superseded by the present continuous railing. + +We now come south into the West-end artery of _Oxford Street_, crossing +same to _Davies Street_, by which we may soon reach BROOK STREET, +GROSVENOR SQUARE, running east and west. On the south-eastern angle of +its intersection stands Claridge’s Hotel. It will be remembered that on +_Mr. Dorrit’s_ return from the Continent, after the marriage of his +daughter Fanny, “the Courier had not approved of his staying at the house +of a friend, and had preferred to take him to an hotel in Brook Street, +Grosvenor Square.” This was doubtless the establishment favoured by the +Courier’s preference on that occasion; and where Mr. Merdle paid a state +visit to Mr. Dorrit at breakfast-time the next morning; taking him +afterwards in his carriage to the City. + +Readers of “Dombey and Son” may be reminded that the Feenix Town House +was situated in this same BROOK STREET; but no clue is afforded of its +exact whereabouts. It is described as an aristocratic mansion of a dull +and gloomy sort; and was borrowed by the _Honourable Mrs. Skewton_ from a +stately relative, on the occasion of her daughter’s marriage. Here also, +in aftertime, the final interview between _Florence_ and _Edith_ took +place. + + [Picture: The Drawing-Room, Devonshire House] + +Keeping on through _Davies Street_ across _Berkeley Square_, we come +through _Berkeley Street_ to Piccadilly, in the close vicinity of +Devonshire House, a mansion of fashionable and political repute, +belonging to the _Duke of Devonshire_. Here, on the 27th of May 1851, in +the great drawing-room and library, Dickens and his _confrères_ of “The +Guild of Literature and Art” performed, for the first time, Sir Bulwer +Lytton’s comedy (written for the occasion) “Not so Bad as We Seem,” in +the presence of the Queen, Prince Albert and a brilliant audience. The +Duke not only afforded the necessary accommodation, but (as Mr. Forster +writes), in his princely way, discharged all attendant expenses. Many +distinguished authors and artists assisted at this performance, including +Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and John Leech. + +Near at hand, on the eastern corner of the next turning down Piccadilly +(_Dover Street_), is HATCHETT’S HOTEL, adjoining The White Horse Cellars, +once a well-known coaching establishment. On the opposite side of the +way stood in days of yore the old “White Horse Cellars,” of which Hazlitt +writes:— + + “The finest sight in the Metropolis is the setting out of the + mail-coaches from Piccadilly. The horses paw the ground and are + impatient to be gone, as if conscious of the precious burden they + convey. There is a peculiar secrecy and despatch, significant and + full of meaning, in all the proceedings concerning them. Even the + outside passengers have an erect and supercilious air, as if proof + against the accidents of the journey; in fact, it seems indifferent + whether they are to encounter the summer’s heat or the winter’s cold, + since they are borne through the air on a winged chariot.” + +From this well-known Booking Office, _Mr. Pickwick_ and his +friends—accompanied by the fierce _Dowler_ and his fascinating +wife—started for Bath, one “muggy, damp, and drizzly morning, by the mail +coach; on the door of which was displayed, in gilt letters of a goodly +size, the magic name of ‘Pickwick’; a circumstance which seems to have +occasioned some confusion of ideas in the mind of the faithful Sam, as +evidenced by his indignant inquiry—‘An’t nobody to be whopped for takin’ +this here liberty?’” + +Readers of “Bleak House” will remember this locality as the destination +of the Reading Coach; so indicated by _Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ in their +first communication to _Esther Summerson_. Here she was met, one foggy +November afternoon, on her arrival in London, by the susceptible _Mr. +Guppy_, and by him conducted to Old Square, Lincoln’s Inn. The incident +was afterwards feelingly referred to by that young gentleman, on the +occasion of his offer of heart, hand, and income to Esther:— + + “I think you must have seen that I was struck with those charms on + the day when I waited at the Whytorseller. I think you must have + remarked that I could not forbear a tribute to those charms when I + put up the steps of the ’ackney coach.” + +For the full narrative, see “Bleak House,” chapter 9. + +The Rambler can now take an eastward course up PICCADILLY, and may +casually observe, on the left, past Burlington House, THE ALBANY, where +_Mr. Fledgby_ had chambers. The next turning on the same side is +SACKVILLE STREET, in which it may be recollected that _Mr. and Mrs. +Lammles_ resided during the short term of their social prosperity. +Mention of these localities in such connection will be found in the pages +of “Our Mutual Friend.” Passing onwards on the same side, we arrive at +No. 28, St. James’s Hall. It was at this well-known place of assembly +that several of those popular Readings were given by Charles Dickens, +which always commanded the attention and sympathetic interest of his +audience. On these occasions he invariably adopted the extreme of +fashionable evening attire, being dressed in irreproachable style, with, +perhaps, more of shirt-front than waistcoat; and so “got up” as to +present a staginess and juvenility of appearance, possibly somewhat out +of keeping with his time of life. Some of his hearers may have desired a +more natural and less conventional mode; but they knew that beneath the +big shirt and fashionable coat, there throbbed the genial heart of the +man they loved, as he read of the sorrows of “Little Emily,” or stood +with them in spirit at the bedside of “Paul Dombey.” On the occasion of +his final Reading, given here in March 1870, he tendered his last public +farewell to his London audience in the following words: + + “It would be worse than idle, it would be hypocritical and unfeeling, + if I were to disguise that I close this episode of my life with + feelings of very considerable pain. For some fifteen years, in this + hall and many kindred places, I have had the honour of presenting my + own cherished ideas before you for your recognition; and, in closely + observing your reception of them, have enjoyed an amount of artistic + delight and enjoyment, which perhaps it is given few men to know. In + this task and every other, I have ever undertaken as a faithful + servant of the public—always imbued with a sense of duty to them, and + always striving to do his best—I have been uniformly cheered by the + readiest response, the most generous sympathy and the most + stimulating support. Nevertheless, I have thought it well, at the + full flood-tide of your favour, to retire upon those older + associations between us, which date from much further back than + these; and henceforth to devote myself exclusively to the art that + first brought us together. Ladies and gentlemen, in but two short + weeks from this time, I hope that you may enter, in your own homes, + on a new series of Readings, at which my assistance will be + indispensable; but from these garish lights I vanish now for ever, + with one heartfelt, grateful, respectful, and affectionate farewell.” + +On the right-hand side of Piccadilly, adjacent to the _Prince’s Hall and +Institute of Painters_, there may be noted, _en passant_, the premises +No. 193, now occupied by the Boys’ Messenger Co. This, for many years, +was the address of Messrs. Chapman and Hall, the publishers of the works +of Dickens. Previous to 1850, the earlier books—“Pickwick” to “Martin +Chuzzlewit” inclusive—together with the first issue of their cheaper +edition, were published by this well-known house at 186 _Strand_, the +site now occupied by the premises of W. H. Smith and Son. The firm have, +for many years past, removed their offices to _No._ 11 _Henrietta +Street_, _Covent Garden_. + +Passing on to _Piccadilly Circus_, and crossing northward from the same, +we turn (left) into _Sherwood Street_, which leads, by a short walk, to +_Brewer Street_, in the neighbourhood of GOLDEN SQUARE. Continuing by +_Lower James Street_, opposite, we reach the square itself, in which was +formerly situated the Office of Ralph Nickleby. Readers of Dickens will +remember that it was a large house, with an attic storey, in which Ralph +committed suicide. The house No. 6, on the east side, was probably the +one assigned by the author as the usurer’s residence. It is now let off +in various suites of offices, professional and otherwise. The +neighbourhood has somewhat changed since the time when the “Adventures of +Nicholas Nickleby” was first issued, and the following description, given +by Dickens, became public property:— + + “It is one of the squares that have been—a quarter of the town that + has gone down in the world, and taken to letting lodgings. Many of + its first and second floors are let, furnished, to single gentlemen, + and it takes boarders besides. It is a great resort of foreigners. + The dark-complexioned men who wear large rings and heavy + watch-guards, and bushy whiskers, and who congregate under the Opera + Colonnade, and about the box-office in the season between four and + five in the afternoon, when they give away the orders—all live in + Golden Square, or within a street of it. Two or three violins and a + wind instrument from the opera-band reside within its precincts.” + +We read in the same book of the whereabouts of _Mr. Kenwigs_ as being in +this neighbourhood— + + “A bygone, faded, tumble-down street, with two irregular rows of tall + meagre houses, which seem to have stared each other out of + countenance years ago; the very chimneys appear to have grown dismal + and melancholy from having had nothing better to look at than the + chimneys over the way.” + +There are many streets in the district of Soho, in this vicinity, which +will in some respects correspond with the description given; but much +alteration has taken place during the last sixty years. Recollecting +that _Newman Noggs_ lodged in the upper part of the same house, it must +have been conveniently near Golden Square. In Carnaby Street +(immediately north of the Square) there may be remarked a white-fronted, +old-fashioned house (No. 48), which, being in proximity to Ralph +Nickleby’s Office, may be assigned as aforetime comprising the apartments +of the Kenwigs Family. + +At the corner of _Beak Street_ and _Upper James Street_ is still existent +“The Crown Inn,” well known to Newman Noggs; though, since his time, it +must have undergone considerable alteration. In his first letter to +Nicholas Nickleby, Newman writes:— + +“If you ever want a shelter in London, . . . they know where I live at +the sign of the Crown, Golden Square. It is at the corner of Silver +Street” [now Beak Street] “and James Street, with a bar door both ways.” + +In this neighbourhood, also, Martha’s Lodgings were situated, in the days +of David Copperfield, who says:— + + “She laid her hand on my arm, and hurried me on to one of the sombre + streets of which there are several in that part, where the houses + were once fair dwellings, in the occupation of single families, but + have, and had, long degenerated into poor lodgings let off in rooms.” + +Such a house may be found in _Marshall Street_, No. 53, close at hand. +But at this distance of time it is difficult to assign the exact locality +intended by Dickens. We are all familiar with the welcome episode in +David’s history when Martha rescued _Little Emily_, bringing her to these +lodgings, and _Mr. Peggotty’s_ dream came true.—See chapter 50. + +Proceeding half-way up _Marshall Street_, we turn (right) through _Broad +Street_, to (left) _Poland Street_, by which we again attain the main +thoroughfare of Oxford Street. Turning eastward, on the north side, we +come at a short distance (by No. 90) to Newman Street, in which was +situated _Mr. Turveydrop’s Dancing Academy_, “established in a +sufficiently dingy house, at the corner of an archway” (Newman Passage), +with Mr. Turveydrop’s great room built out into a mews at the back. The +house intended is No. 26, on the east side of the street. Here _Caddy +Jellyby_ resided with her husband, _Prince Turveydrop_, in the upper +rooms of the establishment, leaving the better part of the house at the +disposal of Mr. Turveydrop, senior; that “perfect model” of parental and +social “deportment.” Returning to Oxford Street and passing onwards on +the south side, we shortly arrive at _Dean Street_, leading southward. + +At a short distance, running east and west, is Carlisle Street, at the +further end of which, to the right, is an old house (by name Carlisle +House) which stands facing the observer. It is now occupied by _Messrs. +Edwards and Roberts_, dealers in antique furniture. Readers of “The Tale +of Two Cities” will recollect the lodgings of Doctor Manette and daughter +Lucie, as described in the 6th chapter (Book the Second) of the Tale, +being situated in a quiet street-corner, not far from Soho Square:— + + “A quainter corner than the corner where the Doctor lived was not to + be found in London. There was no way through it, and the front + windows of the Doctor’s lodgings commanded a pleasant little vista of + street that had a congenial air of retirement on it. There were few + buildings then, north of the Oxford Road, and forest-trees + flourished, and wild flowers grew, and the hawthorn blossomed, in the + now vanished fields.” + +The garden behind the house, referred to in the above-mentioned book, has +been converted to the uses of a warehouse, a glass roof having been long +ago built over the same. A paved court now exists at the side for the +convenience of foot-passengers, giving egress at the end of Carlisle +Street, so that the “wonderful echoes” which once resounded in this +“curious corner” are now no longer to be heard. + +It may be interesting to note that a thoroughfare leading from _No._ 119 +_Charing Cross Road_ to _No._ 6 _Greek Street_, _Soho_, is now named +_Manette Street_; in remembrance of the worthy Doctor, whose London +residence in Carlisle Street, as indicated, was near at hand. + +We may return to Oxford Street through Soho Square, conveniently +terminating the ramble at Tottenham Court Road, just beyond. From this +central point there is omnibus communication to all parts of London; and +a commodious resting-place may be here recommended to those disposed for +dinner, at THE HORSESHOE RESTAURANT; which stands in a prominent position +near at hand, on the east side of the street. + + + + +RAMBLE V +_Bank of England to Her Majesty’s Theatre_ + + +The Bank; Dombey and Son, Tom Pinch—George and Vulture Inn; Mr. +Pickwick’s Hotel—“The Green Dragon,” _alias_ “The Blue Boar,” Leadenhall +Market; Tony Weller’s Headquarters—Newman’s Court (_alias_ Freeman’s +Court), Cornhill; The Offices of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg—House of Sol +Gills, Leadenhall Street; The Wooden Midshipman—St. Mary Axe; Pubsey and +Co.—House of Sampson Brass in Bevis Marks—“The Red Lion;” Mr. Dick +Swiveller’s recommendation—Bull Inn, Aldgate; Starting-place of the +Ipswich Coach—The Minories—Aldgate Pump; Mr. Toots’s Excursions—Mincing +Lane; Messrs. Chicksey, Veneering, and Stobbles—Boarding House of Mrs. +Todgers, King’s Head Court—London Bridge; Meeting-place of Rose Maylie +and Nancy—“The White Hart Inn”; its Pickwickian Associations—The +Marshalsea Prison; The Dorrit Family—St. George’s Church; Little Dorrit’s +Night Refuge and Marriage—Lant Street; Dickens and Bob Sawyer’s +Lodging—King’s Bench Prison—Horsemonger Lane Gaol—Mr. Chivery’s Shop—St. +George’s Obelisk; “the long-legged young man”—The Surrey Theatre; Fanny +Dorrit and Uncle—Bethlehem Hospital; “Uncommercial Traveller”—Astley’s +Theatre; visit of the Nubbles Family—Millbank; Poor “Martha”—Church +Street, Smith Square; the Dolls’ Dressmaker—Julius Handford—Westminster +Abbey—The Red Lion, Parliament Street; the “Genuine Stunning”—The Horse +Guards’ Clock—St. James’s Park; Meeting between Martin and Mary—Her +Majesty’s Theatre. + +Our starting-point is now the BANK OF ENGLAND, Dombey and Son’s + + “Magnificent neighbour; with its vaults of gold and silver, ‘all + among the dead men, underground.’” + +_Tom Pinch_, diffident of requesting information in London, resolved +that, in the event of finding himself near the Bank of England, + + “He would step in, and ask a civil question or two, confiding in the + perfect respectability of the concern.” + +Adopting the route _viâ Lombard Street_, we come, on the left (No. 56), +to GEORGE YARD, traversing which, there will be found, at the corner of +Castle Court (No. 3), the George and Vulture Inn, at which Mr. Pickwick +resided when in London, subsequent to his removal from Goswell Street; +and which has honourable mention in the history of the Pickwickians. + +Through _Lombard Street_, and turning left into _Gracechurch Street_, we +shortly arrive, on the right, at _Bull’s Head Passage_ (turning by the +Branch Post Office, No. 82), in which, at No. 4, is the GREEN DRAGON +TAVERN, in close proximity to Leadenhall Market. This is, in all +probability, the house mentioned in “Pickwick” as “The Blue Boar,” +_Leadenhall Market_, a favourite house of call with the elder Weller, and +the place where Sam indited his “Valentine” to _Mary_, the pretty +housemaid, afterwards Mrs. Sam. But the neighbourhood of the Market has +undergone considerable renovation since the old coaching-days, and it is +difficult to fix the _locale_ of the tavern with certainty. + +Proceeding onwards through _Gracechurch Street_, we come into the +thoroughfare of CORNHILL; and at No. 73, on the opposite side, arrive at +Newman’s Court. It will be remembered that in “Pickwick” the offices of +_Messrs. Dodson and Fogg_ (Mrs. Bardell’s attorneys) are located in +Freeman’s Court, Cornhill. There is no such place in Cornhill; Freeman’s +Court being in Cheapside. It is evident, therefore, that Dickens, for +reasons of his own, emulated the special contributor to the _Eatanswill +Gazette_, and so “combined his information.” Taking Cornhill to be the +locality intended, we shall find Dodson and Fogg’s Office at the furthest +end of the Court, No. 4, still associated with legal business, being in +possession of Messrs. Witherby and Co., law stationers. + +Passing onwards in Cornhill, past Bishopsgate Street, we come into +Leadenhall Street, and may be interested to note, at No. 157 (now an +outfitting establishment), the original position of the HOUSE OF SOL +GILLS, ships’ instrument maker, at whose door was displayed the figure of + + “The Wooden Midshipman; eternally taking observations of the hackney + coaches.” + +Here our eccentric friend _Captain Cuttle_ remained in charge during the +absence of old Sol Gills and his nephew; here _Florence_, accompanied by +the faithful Diogenes, found asylum; and here _Walter Gay_ returned after +shipwreck, to make everybody happy and marry the gentle heroine of the +story. (See “Dombey and Son” for information _in extenso._) Until +recent years, these premises were in occupation of Messrs. Norie and +Wilson, ships’ instrument makers and chart publishers. They have removed +to the Minories, No. 156, where the quaint effigy of _the Wooden +Midshipman_, with his cocked hat and quadrant complete, may now be seen, +as bright and brisk as in old days. “When found, make a note of.” + +Farther on, on the same side of Leadenhall Street, we reach St. Mary Axe, +turning northward at No. 117, which we notice _en passant_ as the +thoroughfare in which _Pubsey and Co._ had their place of business; “a +yellow overhanging plaster-fronted house”—reconstructed, with many +others, some years since—at the top of which _Riah_ (the manager) +arranged his town garden; where the Dolls’ Dressmaker invited +_Fascination Fledgby_ to “come up and be dead.” All of which is duly set +forth in the pages of “Our Mutual Friend.” The position of the house +cannot now be localised. + +Proceeding to the other end of St. Mary Axe, we may turn (right) into +_Bevis Marks_, where there once existed the House of Mr. Sampson Brass, +No. 10, but this and others have long since been rebuilt and +re-enumerated. Here lived that honourable attorney and his sister the +fair Sally; aided in their professional duties by a young gentleman of +eccentric habits and “prodigious talent of quotation.” Here the +_Marchioness_ lived, or rather starved, in attendance as +maid-of-all-work, and first made the acquaintance of Dick Swiveller, her +future husband; being by him initiated into the mysteries of cribbage and +the peculiarities of purl. Here lodged the “single gentleman,” who +evinced such exceptional interest in the national drama, and so +discovered a clue to the retreat of Little Nell and her grandfather. + +On the north side of the street there still flourishes the old RED LION +INN, an establishment patronised in his time by Mr. Richard, and once +eulogised by that gentleman on the occasion of his specifying “the +contingent advantages” of the neighbourhood. “There is mild porter in +the immediate vicinity.” + +For these and the other associations of this spot the tourist is referred +to the pages of the “Old Curiosity Shop.” + +Following downwards through Bevis Marks and Duke Street beyond, we come +into _Aldgate_, keeping still on the left-hand side of the way to +_Aldgate High Street_, where at a short distance we pass the Station of +the Metropolitan Railway. At No. 24, just ahead, is the Bull Inn Yard, +once the City Terminus of Coaches travelling north-east. From this point +Mr. Pickwick started per coach for Ipswich, accompanied by the red-haired +Mr. Peter Magnus; Mr. Tony Weller officiating as driver. On which +occasion we read that Mr. Weller’s conversation, “possessing the +inestimable charm of blending amusement with instruction,” beguiled “the +tediousness of the journey during the greater part of the day.” + +Returning westward on the other side of the way, the Rambler may turn, at +No. 81, into the _Minories_; and, at the second house on the right, may +observe the figure of _the Wooden Midshipman_, previously referred to as +removed from its original position in Leadenhall Street. The route being +continued (same side) from the Minories, we can note, as we pass into +_Fenchurch Street_, Aldgate Pump, standing at the top of Leadenhall +Street. There is a reference to this old pump in “Dombey,” as being a +stated object of _Mr. Toots’s_ special evening excursions from “The +Wooden Midshipman,” when that gentleman desired some temporary relief +from the hopeless contemplation of Walter Gay’s happiness. + +The tourist will now soon arrive at (No. 42) Mincing Lane, leading to +Great Tower Street. This short street is entirely occupied by wholesale +merchants and brokers, and it will be remembered that _Messrs. Chicksey_, +_Veneering_, _and Stobbles_, wholesale druggists, flourished in this +locality in the days of the “Golden Dustman.” The fourth house on the +left from Fenchurch Street, next to _Dunster Court_, has been indicated +as the probable whereabouts of the firm. We may remember that R. +Wilfer’s office was on the ground-floor, next the gateway. + +Here, then, in this prosaic neighbourhood, _John Rokesmith_, following +_Bella Wilfer_, came to the warehouse where Little _Rumty_ was sitting at +the open window at his tea, and much surprised that gentleman by a +declaration of love for his daughter; what time “The Feast of the Three +Hobgoblins” was so agreeably celebrated. This place is also associated +with other pleasant episodes connected with the history of the Wilfer +family, the details of which are fully furnished in the pages of “Our +Mutual Friend.” + +Proceeding through Mincing Lane, we turn to the right through +_Eastcheap_, which leads westward to the top of FISH STREET HILL. The +tourist now proceeds southward, passing the _Monument_ on the left. At a +short distance beyond (No. 34) we arrive at _King’s Head Court_, “a small +paved yard,” in which are certain city warehouses and a dairy. On the +south side of the court, now occupied by the warehouses aforesaid, once +stood the Commercial Boarding-House of Mrs. Todgers—an old-fashioned +abode even in the days of Mr. Pecksniff—which has long since given place +to other commercial considerations. In the 9th chapter of “Martin +Chuzzlewit” full, true, and particular account is given of this +establishment as it used to be. We may here call to remembrance the +characters of _Bailey junior_, _Mr. Jinkins_, _Augustus Moddle_, and +others in connection with the domestic economy of Mrs. Todgers and the +several Pecksniffian associations of the place; notably, the festive +occasion of that Sunday’s dinner when Cherry and Merry were first +introduced to London society; the moral Mr. Pecksniff thereafter +exhibiting alarming symptoms of a chronic complaint. (See chapter 9.) +And we may indulge in a kindly reminiscence of good-hearted Mrs. Todgers +herself, worried with the anxieties of “gravy” and the eccentricities of +commercial gentlemen. “Perhaps the Good Samaritan was lean and lank, and +found it hard to live.” We now come to London Bridge, the scene of +Nancy’s interview with Mr. Brownlow and Rose Maylie (see “Oliver Twist”), +which took place on the steps near St. Saviour’s Church, on the Surrey +side of the river— + + “These stairs are a part of the bridge; they consist of three + flights. Just below the end of the second, going down, the stone + wall on the left terminates in an ornamental pilaster, facing towards + the Thames.” + +And it will be remembered that _Noah Claypole_ here ensconced himself as +an unseen listener. + +As we come to the Surrey side of the Thames, a passing thought may be +given to _Mrs. Rudge_ and her son Barnaby, who lived near at hand “in a +by-street in Southwark, not far from London Bridge”; and we may recall +the incident of _Edward Chester_ being brought hither by _Gabriel +Varden_, having been found wounded by a highwayman on the other side of +the river. But it is altogether impossible to locate the house, the +neighbourhood having so entirely changed during the present century. +Onwards by the main thoroughfare of the Borough, we shall find, on the +left-hand side of the way (No. 61), the (former) location of “The White +Hart,” described in “Pickwick” as + + “An old inn, which has preserved its external features unchanged, and + which has escaped alike the rage for public improvement and the + encroachments of private speculation. A great, rambling, queer old + place, with galleries and passages and staircases, wide enough and + antiquated enough to furnish materials for a hundred ghost stories.” + +The old inn has been pulled down some years since; the original gateway +only remains, leading to White Hart Yard. A tavern and luncheon-bar of +modern erection now occupy one side of the old coach-yard in which +_Messrs. Pickwick_, _Wardle_, and _Perker_ made their first acquaintance +with _Mr. Samuel Weller_, on that memorable occasion when _Mr. Jingle_ +had eloped from _Dingley Dell_ with _Miss Rachael Wardle_, and had +brought the lady to this establishment. Farther on, towards the end of +the Borough, we arrive at Angel Place, a narrow passage near to St. +George’s Church. It leads into _Marshalsea Place_, of which Dickens +writes as follows in his preface to “Little Dorrit”:— + + “Whoever goes into Marshalsea Place, turning out of Angel Court, + leading to Bermondsey, will find his feet on the very paving-stones + of the extinct Marshalsea jail; will see its narrow yard to the + right, and to the left, very little altered if at all, except that + the walls were lowered when the place got free; will look upon the + rooms in which the debtors lived; and will stand among the crowding + ghosts of many miserable years.” + +This, then, was The Marshalsea Prison, in which, during Dickens’s +youthful days, his father was imprisoned for debt; and the place is +intimately associated with the story of _Little Dorrit_ and her family. +We must be all familiar with the Father of the Marshalsea, his brother +Frederick, Maggie, and the several others of the _dramatis personæ_ of +that charming tale. + +St. George’s Church, close at hand, will be remembered in connection with +the above, as once affording refuge in its vestry for Little Dorrit, when +the sexton accommodated her with a bed formed of the pew-cushions, the +book of registers doing service as a pillow. She was afterwards married +to Arthur Clennam in this church. Full particulars of the ceremony will +be found in the last chapter of the tale. At a short distance from this +point, down Blackman Street, on the right, is (No. 90) Lant Street. In +Forster’s Biography it is narrated that Dickens, when a boy, lodged in +this street what time his father was imprisoned in the Marshalsea. The +house stood on part of the site now occupied by the Board School +adjoining No. 46— + + “A back attic was found for me at the house of an insolvent-court + agent, who lived in Lant Street, in the Borough, where _Bob Sawyer_ + lodged many years afterwards. A bed and bedding were sent over for + me, and made up on the floor. The little window had a pleasant + prospect of a timber-yard; and when I took possession of my new + abode, I thought it was a Paradise.” + +This opinion of his boyhood seems to have been somewhat modified fifteen +years later, when the “Pickwick Papers” were written, and Mr. Robert +Sawyer had taken residence in the locality. We read— + +“There is an air of repose about Lant Street, in the Borough, which sheds +a gentle melancholy upon the soul. A house in Lant Street would not come +within the denomination of a first-rate residence, in the strict +acceptation of the term; but it is a most desirable spot, nevertheless. +If a man wished to extract himself from the world, to remove himself from +within the reach of temptation, to place himself beyond the possibility +of any inducement to look out of the window, he should by all means go to +Lant Street.” + +Walking onwards from “this happy valley” past Suffolk Street, to the +westward, turning off _Borough Road_, we may note on the north corner the +site of the old King’s Bench Prison, in which _Mr. Micawber_ was +detained—in the top storey but one—pending the settlement of his +pecuniary liabilities. Later on in the Copperfield history, Micawber +appointed a meeting for David and Tom Traddles as follows:— + + “Among other havens of domestic tranquillity and peace of mind, my + feet will naturally tend towards the King’s Bench Prison. In stating + that I shall be (D.V.) on the outside of the south wall of that place + of incarceration on civil process, the day after to-morrow, at seven + in the evening, precisely, my object in this epistolary communication + is accomplished.” + +See chapter 49 for particulars of the subsequent interview. This “_dead +wall_” of the prison is also mentioned in the same book as the place +where young David requested “the long-legged young man”—who had charge of +his box for conveyance to the Dover coach-office—to stop for a minute +while he (David) tied on the address. It will be remembered that poor +David lost his box and his money on this occasion, when he started for +Dover, + + “Taking very little more out of the world, towards the retreat of his + aunt, Miss Betsy, than he had brought into it on the night when his + arrival gave her so much umbrage;” + +the total sum of his remaining cash amounting to three half-pence.—See +chapter 12. + +The first reference of our author to King’s Bench Prison will be found in +“Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 46), on the occasion of the hero’s first +visit to _Madeline Bray_, who resided with her father in one + + “Of a row of mean and not over cleanly houses, situated within ‘the + rules’ of the King’s Bench Prison; . . . comprising some dozen + streets in which debtors who could raise money to pay large fees—from + which their creditors did not derive any benefit—were permitted to + reside.” + +We learn from Allen’s “History of Surrey” that these rules comprehended +all St. George’s Fields, one side of Blackman Street, and part of the +Borough High Street, forming an area of about three miles in +circumference. They could be purchased by the prisoners at the rate of +five guineas for small debts, eight guineas for the first hundred pounds +of debt, and about half that sum for every subsequent hundred. + +The site of the prison is now occupied by workmen’s model dwellings named +“Queen’s Buildings,” divided, north and south, by Scovell’s Road. + +At the opposite side (east) of _Newington Causeway_, which here +commences, is _Union Road_, late _Horsemonger __Lane_; a short distance +down which, on its south side, is “THE PUBLIC PLAYGROUND FOR CHILDREN,” +formerly the site of Horsemonger Lane Gaol, erected at the back of the +Surrey Sessions House. Here the execution of the Mannings took place, +November 13th, 1849, on which occasion Charles Dickens was present. The +same day he sent a notable letter to the _Times_, directing general +attention to the demoralising effect of such public exhibitions; thus +setting on foot an agitation which shortly resulted in the adoption of +our present private mode of carrying out the last penalty of the law. +After giving a forcible and graphic picture of the night scenes enacted +by the disorderly crowd in waiting, the letter was thus continued:— + + “When the sun rose brightly—as it did—it gilded thousands upon + thousands of upturned faces, so inexpressibly odious in their brutal + mirth or callousness, that a man had cause to shrink from himself as + fashioned in the image of the devil. When the two miserable + creatures who attracted all this ghastly sight about them, were + turned quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more + pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment, + no more restraint in any of the previous obscenities, than if the + name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there was no + belief among men but that they perished like the beasts. I have + seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general contamination + and corruption in this country, and I think there are not many phases + of London life that could surprise me. I am solemnly convinced that + nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done in this city, in the + same compass of time, could work such ruin as one public execution; + and I stand astounded and appalled by the wickedness it exhibits.” + +Mr. Chivery resided with his family in _Horsemonger Lane_, in close +proximity to the old prison, and kept a tobacconist’s shop for the supply +of his Marshalsea customers and the general public of the neighbourhood— + + “A rural establishment one storey high, which had the benefit of the + air from the yards of Horsemonger Lane Jail, and the advantage of a + retired walk under the wall of that pleasant establishment. The + business was of too modest a character to support a life-size + Highlander, but it maintained a little one on a bracket on the + door-post, who looked like a fallen cherub that had found it + necessary to take to a kilt.” + +In the little back-yard of the premises, “Young John”—disappointed in +love—was accustomed to sit and meditate; taking cold among the “tuneless +groves” of the newly-washed family linen, and composing suitable epitaphs +to his own memory, in melancholy anticipation of an early decease. + +Proceeding along the Borough Road, we arrive in due course at St. +George’s Obelisk, which stands at the meeting-point of six roads. In the +twelfth chapter of “David Copperfield” we read of the Obelisk as the +place near to which the “long-legged young man with a very little empty +donkey-cart” was standing, whom David engaged to take his box to the +Dover coach-office for sixpence. And we all remember the sad +_dénouement_ of that engagement, as previously mentioned. Near at hand, +at the top of Blackfriars Road, stands The Surrey Theatre, at which +_Fanny Dorrit_ was engaged as a dancer, while her Uncle Frederick played +the clarionet in the orchestra. + +Crossing over to the opposite thoroughfare of _Lambeth Road_, the Rambler +will find, at a short distance on the left, the entrance to Bethlehem +Hospital, familiarly known as Bedlam. A reference to this asylum will be +found in the pages of “The Uncommercial Traveller,” where our author +implies the idea that the sane and insane are, at all events, equal in +their dreams— + + “Are not all of us outside this Hospital, who dream more or less, in + the condition of those inside it, every night of our lives?” + +The question may afford us matter for speculation as the route is +continued through Lambeth Road, at the end of which we turn to the right, +in the direction of the river. At the angle of the roads, past the +Lambeth Police Office, we reach Christchurch, conspicuous for style and +position, at which the Rev. Newman Hall some years since officiated. We +may here recall the criticism given by Dickens with reference to this +popular preacher in the book above referred to. See “_Two Views of a +Cheap Theatre_,” as contained in “The Uncommercial Traveller.” + +We now come onwards by _Westminster Bridge Road_, passing beneath the +span of the London and South-Western Railway. Near Westminster Bridge, +on the left, is the old site of Astley’s Theatre (non-existent since +1896). This establishment had cause to bless itself once a quarter, in +days gone by, when Christopher Nubbles, Barbara, and friends patronised +the performance. We may here remember the occasion when Kit knocked a +man over the head with his bundle of oranges for “scroudging his parent +with unnecessary violence;” also the happy evening that followed, when +little Jacob first saw a play and learnt what oysters meant (_vide_ the +“Old Curiosity Shop”). On the site formerly occupied by this favourite +place of entertainment, there now stand five handsome houses and shops, +Nos. 225 to 233 Westminster Bridge Road. + +Past a few doors beyond these, above, on the same side, we reach Lambeth +Palace Road, turning by which we may walk (or ride by tramcar) a short +distance southward. Leaving on the right the seven handsome buildings of +ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, we pass—on the left—farther on, LAMBETH EPISCOPAL +PALACE, and cross the Thames by LAMBETH SUSPENSION BRIDGE. + +On the Middlesex shore we come into _Millbank Street_, and bestow a brief +thought on Poor “Martha,” following her in imagination as she took her +melancholy way southward in this same street, towards the waste riverside +locality, “near the great blank prison” of Millbank, long since replaced +by _Tate’s Gallery_. + +Here it will be remembered that _David Copperfield_ and his trusty friend +_Mr. Peggotty_ saved the despairing girl from a self-sought and miserable +death. + +At a few minutes’ distance northward from the bridge, _Church Street_ +will be found, leading (left) to _Smith Square_. In this street lived +The Dolls’ Dressmaker, little _Jenny Wren_. The whimsical description of +the central church—ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST’S—as given in the pages of +“Our Mutual Friend,” may be worth comparison with the original— + + “In this region are a certain little street called Church Street, and + a certain little blind square called Smith Square, in the centre of + which last retreat is a very hideous church, with four towers at the + four corners, generally resembling some petrified monster, frightful + and gigantic, on its back with its legs in the air.” + +The house in which Jenny and her father lived is stated to have been one +of the modest little houses which stand at the point where the street +gives into Smith Square. The Rambler will observe four houses answering +this description on the north side of Church Street; No. 9 has been +indicated as the humble home in question, where “_the person of the +house_” and her “_bad boy_” resided. Here, also, _Lizzie Hexam_ lodged +for some time after the death of her father, during the days when her +uncertain lover, _Eugene Wrayburn_, was yet a bachelor. + +We may now return to the main road and continue the northward route by +_Abingdon Street_, crossing _Old Palace Yard_. A passing thought may +here be given to Mr. John Harmon, the _Julius Handford_ of “Our Mutual +Friend,” who furnished the Police authorities with his address—The +Exchequer Coffee House, Palace Yard, Westminster. Such a house of resort +no longer exists in this vicinity. + +On the west side the Rambler passes the precincts of Westminster Abbey, +beneath whose “high embowed roof” repose the sacred ashes of the +illustrious dead. To this venerable fane—the especial resting-place of +English literary genius—we will return after our concluding ramble to the +birthplace of our greatest English novelist. + +The onward road takes us past the HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, on the right, to +PARLIAMENT STREET, leading to Whitehall and Charing Cross. At a short +distance up this thoroughfare is Derby Street—the first turning on the +right; on the north corner of which there stood—until 1899—an old +public-house, “The Red Lion” (No. 48). This place may be specially noted +as the house at which _young David Copperfield_ gave his “magnificent +order” for a glass of the “Genuine Stunning,” and where the landlord’s +wife gave him back the money and a kiss besides. This was an actual +experience in the boyhood of Dickens, and is referred to in Mr. Forster’s +Biography, where the house is indicated as above. It is now being +rebuilt and modernised. + +Proceeding by Whitehall, and crossing to the opposite side of the street, +we shortly arrive at The Horse Guards, and may take passing observation +of the OLD CLOCK—famed for its perfection of time-keeping—by whose +warning note _Mark Tapley_ regulated the period of the interview next +referred to. Passing through the arched passage beneath, we now attain +the eastern side of St. James’s Park. This locality will be remembered +as the place of meeting between _Mary Graham_ and _Martin Chuzzlewit_, +previous to his departure for America. As the young lady was escorted by +Mark in the early morning from a City hotel, we may be certain that the +interview must have taken place on this side of the Park, doubtless near +the principal gate of the promenade facing the Horse Guards’ entrance. + +Leaving the Park northward, by _Spring Gardens_, we come into _Cockspur +Street_, shortly leading (left) to PALL MALL. At the first corner of the +latter stands Her Majesty’s Theatre. At this establishment, as +reconstructed during the early years of the century, _Mrs. Nickleby_ +attended, by special invitation of _Sir Mulberry Hawk_, Messrs. Pyke and +Pluck assisting on that notable occasion, when, by a prearranged +coincidence, Kate and the Wititterlys occupied the adjoining box.—_Vide_ +“Nicholas Nickleby,” chapter 27. + +This Opera House was burnt down 1789, and rebuilt the following year. It +was remodelled 1818, and again destroyed by fire, December 6, 1867. +Being a second time rebuilt, it was, for some seasons, closed since 1875. +The present theatre is of recent and splendid erection. + +At this central position, from which we may readily take departure for +any point in London, the present Ramble will terminate. To all those +needing reparation of tissue, a visit to Epitaux’s Restaurant, near the +Haymarket Theatre, will be satisfactory. + + + + +RAMBLE VI +_Excursion to Chatham_, _Rochester_, _and Gadshill_ + + +Emmanuel Church; Mr. Wemmick’s Wedding—Dulwich; Mr. Pickwick’s +Retirement—Dulwich Church; Marriage of Snodgrass and Emily +Wardle—Cobham—“The Leather Bottle;” Tracy Tupman’s Retreat—Mr. Pickwick’s +Discovery—Chatham—Railway Street; Rome Lane Elementary School—The Brook; +Residence of the Dickens Family—Clover Lane Academy; Rev. William Giles, +Schoolmaster—Fort Pitt; Dr. Slammer’s Duelling-Ground; the Recreation +Ground of Chatham—Star Hill; Old Rochester Theatre; Mr. Jingle’s +Engagement—Rochester; Eastgate House; The Nuns’ House—Mr. Sapsea’s +Residence—Restoration House; Residence of Miss Havisham, “Satis +House”—[Joe Gargery’s Forge; Parish of Cooling]—The Monk’s Vineyard—Minor +Canon Row—Rochester Cathedral; The Crypts—Durdles—The Cathedral Tower—St. +Nicholas Church—The College Gate; John Jasper’s Lodging—Watts’s Charity; +“The Seven Poor Travellers”—[Watts’s Almshouses]—Miss Adelaide +Procter—The Bull Hotel; the Ball-room—The Crown Hotel; “The Crozier”—The +Esplanade—Rochester Bridge; Richard Doubledick—Gadshill Place; Residence +of Dickens—Gravesend; Embarkation of Mr. Peggotty and friends—Greenwich +Park; “Sketches by Boz”—Church of St. Alphege; Bella Wilfer’s +Marriage—Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern; “An Innocent Elopement;” The +Rokesmith Wedding Dinner. + +Starting from the _Holborn Viaduct_ or _Ludgate Hill Station_ of the +London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we cross the Thames and proceed _en +route_ for the Kentish uplands. At ten minutes’ distance from the London +terminus, passing the Elephant and Castle and Walworth Road Stations, we +may observe (on the left) the back of Emmanuel Church, as the train +slackens speed for _Camberwell_. This may be noted as the place where +_Mr. Wemmick_ and _Miss Skiffins_ were united in the bonds of matrimony; +so we may here suitably recall the scene narrated in “Great +Expectations,” and the informal and unexpected procedure adopted by Mr. +W. on that occasion— + + “We went towards Camberwell Green, and when we were thereabouts, + Wemmick said suddenly, ‘Halloa! Here’s a church!’ There was nothing + very surprising in that; but again I was rather surprised when he + said, as if he were animated by a brilliant idea, ‘Let’s go in!’ We + went in and looked all round. In the meantime Wemmick was diving + into his coat pockets, and getting something out of paper there. + ‘Halloa!’ said he. ‘Here’s a couple of pairs of gloves! Let’s put + ’em on!’ As the gloves were white kid gloves, I now began to have my + strong suspicions. They were strengthened into certainty, when I + beheld the Aged enter at a side door, escorting a lady. ‘Halloa!’ + said Wemmick. ‘Here’s Miss Skiffins! Let’s have a wedding!’ . . . + True to his notion of seeming to do it all without preparation, I + heard Wemmick say to himself, as he took something out of his + waistcoat pocket before the service began, ‘Halloa! Here’s a ring!’ + . . . ‘Now, Mr. Pip,’ said Wemmick triumphantly, as we came out, + ‘let me ask you whether anybody would suppose this to be a wedding + party.’” + +The route being continued past _Herne Hill Station_, the train arrives at +Dulwich, which we may recollect _en passant_ as being the locality of Mr. +Pickwick’s retirement, before the days of railway locomotion. The +house—a white, comfortable-looking residence—stands (left) near the +station, as we approach, corresponding in style and position with its +Pickwickian description. _Mr. Tupman_, too, may have been met with in +olden time, walking in the public promenades or loitering in the Dulwich +Picture Gallery—“with a youthful and jaunty air”—still in the enjoyment +of single blessedness, and the cynosure of the numerous elderly ladies of +the neighbourhood. + +_Mr. Snodgrass_ and _Emily Wardle_, as we all know, were married at +DULWICH CHURCH, in this vicinity; the wedding guests—including “the poor +relations, who got there somehow”—assembling at Mr. Pickwick’s new house +on that interesting occasion; and we may remember the general verdict +then unanimously given as to the elegance, comfort, and suitability of +our old friend’s suburban retreat— + + “Nothing was to be heard but congratulations and commendations. + Everything was so beautiful! The lawn in front, the garden behind, + the miniature conservatory, the dining-room, the drawing-room, the + bedrooms, the smoking-room; and, above all, the study—with its + pictures and easy chairs, and odd cabinets and queer tables, and + nooks out of number, with a large cheerful window opening upon a + pleasant lawn, and commanding a pretty landscape, just dotted here + and there with little houses, almost hidden by the trees.” + +Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Weller and family—retainers in the Pickwickian +establishment—also flourished aforetime in these arcadian groves, in +faithful attendance on their illustrious patron. + +The journey being resumed, we pass onwards (Crystal Palace on the right +side of the railway) _viâ Penge_ and _Bromley_, and several country towns +beyond—a pleasant ride of about an hour’s duration—arriving in due course +at Sole Street Station (30 miles from London), about a mile south-west +from the village of Cobham. A pleasant walk of twenty minutes on the +high road will lead the wayfarer through Owlet to the pretty parish +aforesaid; the rural retreat—famous in the annals of Pickwickian +history—selected by _Mr. Tracy Tupman_ for his retirement from the world, +after his disappointment at the hands of Miss Rachael Wardle. + + [Picture: The “Leather Bottle”, Cobham] + +“The Leather Bottle Inn”—where he was found at dinner by his anxious +friends—is described as “a clean and commodious village ale-house,” and +still maintains its favourable repute. It stands opposite the church at +Cobham— + + “At Muggleton they procured a conveyance to Rochester. By the time + they reached the last-named place, the violence of their grief had + sufficiently abated to admit of their making a very excellent early + dinner; and having procured the necessary information relative to the + road, the three friends set forward again in the afternoon to walk to + Cobham. + + “A delightful walk it was; for it was a pleasant afternoon in June, + and their way lay through a deep and shady wood, cooled by the light + wind which gently rustled the thick foliage, and enlivened by the + songs of the birds that perched upon the boughs. The ivy and the + moss crept in thick clusters over the old trees, and the soft green + turf overspread the ground like a silken mat. They emerged upon an + open park, with an ancient hall, displaying the quaint and + picturesque architecture of Elizabeth’s time. Long vistas of stately + oaks and elm-trees appeared on every side; large herds of deer were + cropping the fresh grass; and occasionally a startled hare scoured + along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by the light + clouds which swept across a sunny landscape like a passing breath of + summer. ‘If this,’ said Mr. Pickwick, looking about him, ‘if this + were the place to which all who are troubled with our friend’s + complaint came, I fancy their old attachment to this world would very + soon return.’ + + “‘I think so too,’ said Mr. Winkle. + + “‘And really,’ added Mr. Pickwick, after half-an-hour’s walking had + brought them to the village, ‘really, for a misanthrope’s choice, + this is one of the prettiest and most desirable places of residence I + ever met with.’ + + “In this opinion also both Mr. Winkle and Mr. Snodgrass expressed + their concurrence; and having been directed to the Leather Bottle, a + clean and commodious village ale-house, the three travellers entered, + and at once inquired for a gentleman of the name of Tupman. The + three friends entered a long, low-roofed room, furnished with a large + number of high-backed leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes, + and embellished with a great variety of old portraits. At the upper + end of the room was a table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered + with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and et ceteras; and at the table sat + Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a man who had taken his leave of the + world as possible.” + +Resting here awhile, we may recall the “immortal discovery” made by Mr. +Pickwick, “which has been the pride and boast of his friends and the envy +of every antiquarian in this or any other country”—that famous stone +found by the chairman of the Pickwick Club himself; “partially buried in +the ground in front of a cottage door,” in this same village of Cobham, +on which “the following fragment of an inscription was clearly to be +deciphered”:— + + [Picture: Cobham Inscription] + +Full particulars are duly recorded in “The Pickwick Papers,” chapter 11. +We may also remember the celebrated controversy in scientific and erudite +circles, to which this remarkable stone gave rise; Mr. Pickwick being +“elected an honorary member of seventeen native and foreign societies for +the discovery.” + +The journey being resumed from Sole Street, we travel _viâ Strood_, ten +miles, to the important station of + + + +CHATHAM. + + +Mr. Pickwick’s description (taken from his note-book sixty years since) +is a fairly correct view of the general appearance of Chatham at +present:— + + “The principal productions of these towns appear to be soldiers, + sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers, and dockyardmen. The + commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine + stores, hard-bake, apples, flat-fish, and oysters. The streets + present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the + conviviality of the military.” + +In this city five years of Dickens’s boyhood were passed. Mr. Dickens, +senior, was appointed in 1816 to a clerkship at the Naval Pay Office, in +connection with the Royal Dockyard, and the Dickens family here resided +till little Charles was nine years of age. + +On arrival at the Chatham Station, we may enter the town on the right +from the railway exit (north side of the line), shortly passing under an +archway into Railway Street—formerly Rome Lane—in which was once situated +the elementary school where the boy first attended, with his sister +Fanny. Revisiting Chatham in after years, Dickens found that it had been +pulled down + + “Ages before, but out of the distance of the ages, arose, + nevertheless, a not dim impression that it had been over a dyer’s + shop; that he went up steps to it; that he had frequently grazed his + knees in doing so; and that in trying to scrape the mud off a very + unsteady little shoe, he generally got his leg over the scraper.” + +At the upper end of Railway Street we proceed (right) by the _High +Street_, and at a short distance (left) by _Fair __Row_ to the _Brook_. +Turning to the left, we shall find, standing immediately beyond the +corner, on the west side, the old Residence of the Dickens Family, No. +18, next door to _Providence Chapel_. The house is a modest-looking +dwelling of three storeys, with white-washed plaster front as in former +days, six steps leading up to the front door, and a small garden before +and behind. The chapel previously referred to has been, in more recent +years, used for meetings of the Salvation Army, since becoming a clothing +factory. During the residence of the family at Chatham, the minister of +this place of worship was a _Mr. William Giles_, who was also the +schoolmaster of Clover Lane Academy. For the last two years of Charles’s +Chatham experience he was placed under the educational supervision of +this young Baptist minister, whose influence seems to have been +favourable to the development of his pupil’s youthful talents. + +Regaining the High Street by _Fair Row_, and turning to the left for a +short distance onwards, we reach, on the right hand of the street, past +the Mitre Hotel, Clover Street, on the south side of which (at the corner +of Richard Street) the Academy, with its playground behind, may still be +seen. Forster says:— + + “Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense in after years, that this + first of his masters, in his little-cared-for childhood, had + pronounced him to be a boy of capacity; and when, about half-way + through the publication of Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver + snuff-box with admiring inscription to ‘the inimitable Boz,’ it + reminded him of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first + year’s examination in the Clover Lane Academy.” + +Coming through Clover Street, and turning (right) into the _New Road_, we +shortly regain the neighbourhood of Chatham Station, on the south side of +which a road in the westward direction leads to Fort Pitt, now the +Chatham Military Hospital. Pickwickians will remember that Fort Pitt was +indicated by Lieutenant Tappleton, the friend of the choleric _Doctor +__Slammer_, as being in the vicinity of a field where the quarrel between +the doctor and Mr. Winkle could be adjusted. This old field, and the +contiguous land surrounding the Fort, now form The Recreation Ground of +the City. Visitors may hence obtain an interesting and comprehensive +view of the town and neighbourhood. We are, doubtless, all familiar with +the happy termination of the affair of honour above referred to; the +unworthy Jingle being at the bottom of the mischief. Full particulars of +the dilemma may be found in chapter 2 of “The Pickwick Papers.” + +Returning to the New Road, the Rambler, passing ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S +HOSPITAL (founded in the eleventh century) on the right, may proceed by +_Star Hill_, in the outskirts of Rochester. On the south side (left) of +the descent there may be noted _en passant_ the new building of the +ROCHESTER CONSERVATIVE CLUB, which stands on the site of The Old Theatre. +Here the versatile Mr. Jingle and his melancholic friend, “elegantly +designated Dismal Jemmy,” were engaged to perform “in the piece that the +Officers of the Fifty-second” got up, when Mr. Pickwick commenced his +travels, May 1827. + +The theatre was demolished December 1884. + +Continuing the route, we soon arrive at the central street of the old +City of + + + +ROCHESTER. + + +This place will be interesting to readers of Dickens for its several +associations with his books, including “Pickwick,” “Great Expectations,” +“The Seven Poor Travellers,” and “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” his latest +and uncompleted work. In chapter 3 of this last-mentioned tale is the +following description:— + + “An ancient city, Cloisterham, and no meet dwelling-place for any one + with hankerings after the noisy world. A monotonous, silent city, + deriving an earthly flavour throughout, from its Cathedral crypt. . . + . A drowsy city, Cloisterham, whose inhabitants seem to suppose, + with an inconsistency more strange than rare, that all its changes + lie behind it, and that there are no more to come. . . . So silent + are the streets of Cloisterham (though prone to echo on the smallest + provocation), that of a summer day the sunblinds of its shops scarce + dare to flap in the south wind; while the sun-browned tramps who pass + along and stare, quicken their limp a little that they may the sooner + get beyond the confines of its oppressive respectability. This is a + feat not difficult of achievement, seeing that the streets of + Cloisterham city are little more than one narrow street by which you + get into it, and get out of it; the rest being mostly disappointing + yards with pumps in them and no thoroughfare—exception made of the + Cathedral-close, and a paved Quaker settlement. . . . In a word, a + city of another and a bygone time is Cloisterham, with its hoarse + Cathedral bell, its hoarse rooks hovering about the Cathedral tower, + its hoarser and less distinct rooks in the stalls far beneath. + Fragments of old wall, saint’s chapel, chapter-house, convent, and + monastery have got incongruously or obstructively built into many of + its houses and gardens, much as kindred jumbled notions have become + incorporated into many of its citizens’ minds. All things in it are + of the past.” + + [Picture: Eastgate House, Rochester] + +Entering the busier part of the town by the Eastgate thoroughfare, we may +shortly observe, on the right, Eastgate House, now occupied by the CITY +OF ROCHESTER WORKMEN’S CLUB. It is a fine old Elizabethan building; a +well-preserved specimen of the domestic architecture of the sixteenth +century. The building abuts on the street, with a large courtyard and +entrance at the side; and a spacious garden is attached at the back of +the house. For more than fifty years (until about twenty years since) +this establishment flourished as a ladies’ boarding-school, and is +referred to in the pages of “Edwin Drood” as The Nuns’ House, the +seminary conducted by the eminently respectable _Miss Twinkleton_— + + “In the midst of Cloisterham stands the Nuns’ House; a venerable + brick edifice, whose present appellation is doubtless derived from + the legend of its conventual uses. On the trim gate enclosing its + old courtyard, is a resplendent brass plate flashing forth the + legend, ‘Seminary for young Ladies. Miss Twinkleton.’ The + house-front is so old and worn, and the brass plate is so shining and + staring, that the general result has reminded imaginative strangers + of a battered old beau with a large modern eye-glass stuck in his + blind eye.” + +On the opposite side of the High Street (Nos. 146 and 147) stands Mr. +Sapsea’s House. It will be remembered that we are introduced to _Mr. +Thomas Sapsea_, auctioneer and Mayor of Cloisterham, in the 4th chapter +of the same book, as being “the purest jackass” in the town; adopting, in +his voice and style, the professional mannerism of his superiors— + + “Mr. Sapsea ‘dresses at’ the Dean; has been bowed to for the Dean, in + mistake; has even been spoken to in the street as My Lord, under the + impression that he was the Bishop come down unexpectedly, without his + chaplain. Mr. Sapsea is very proud of this, and of his voice, and of + his style. He has even (in selling landed property) tried the + experiment of slightly intoning in his pulpit, to make himself more + like what he takes to be the genuine ecclesiastical article. So, in + ending a Sale by Public Auction, Mr. Sapsea finishes off with an air + of bestowing a benediction on the assembled brokers, which leaves the + real Dean—a modest and worthy gentleman—far behind.” + +Much of the humorous element of the tale is connected with this +character. According to local tradition, Mr. S. is supposed to be a +combination of two well-known townsmen, formerly resident in _Rochester_; +a councilman who lived at the above address, and an auctioneer, once +mayor of the city, over whose door the pulpit spoken of in “Edwin Drood” +could have been seen— + + “Over the doorway is a wooden effigy, about half life-size, + representing Mr. Sapsea’s father, in a curly wig and toga, in the act + of selling. The chastity of the idea, and the natural appearance of + the little figure, hammer, and pulpit, have been much admired.” + +Both the aforesaid local prototypes have departed this life some time +since, and the premises have been occupied by others (equally competent, +but less pretentious) of that ilk. + + [Picture: Restoration House, Rochester] + +We now turn on the left into _Crow Lane_; at the further end of which, on +the south side, stands Restoration House, another specimen of the +Elizabethan style, in the present occupation of Stephen T. Aveling, Esq. +This residence is of interest as being the _Satis House_ of “Great +Expectations,” in which _Miss Havisham_ lived. We may recollect the +circumstance of _Pip_ being escorted in _Mr. Pumblechook’s_ chaise-cart +to this address, “to play” for the diversion of Miss Havisham. Here he +first met _Estella_, who then treated him with extreme contempt, but with +whom he fell desperately in love notwithstanding. Pip says, when +speaking of his departure from the house:— + + “I set off on the four-mile walk to our forge, pondering, as I went + along, on all I had seen, and deeply revolving that I was a common + labouring-boy: that my hands were coarse; that my boots were thick; + that I had fallen into a despicable habit of calling knaves Jacks; + that I was much more ignorant than I had considered myself last + night, and generally that I was in a low-lived bad way.” + +[Joe Gargery’s Forge and wooden house were in the little village of +_Cooling_, six miles north of Rochester. The greater part of the parish +is marsh-land, extending to the Thames. Mr. Forster recalls, in his +biography, the occasion when he and his friend stood on the spot; Dickens +saying that “he meant to make it the scene of the opening of his +story—Cooling Castle ruins, and the desolate church lying out among the +marshes, seven miles from Gadshill.” Here it was that Pip met the +convict _Magwitch_—by secret appointment—and supplied him with “wittles” +and a file, thus materially influencing his own future fortunes.] + +Turning to the left, we reach the _Promenade and Recreation Ground_, +called “The Vines,” an open space of more than three acres, formerly the +vinery of the ancient Priory. It is referred to in “Edwin Drood,” +chapter 14, as the Monk’s Vineyard, in which, near a wicket-gate in a +corner, Edwin met the old woman from the opium-smoking den in the East +end of London, from whom he received warning of a threatened danger. +This is the last occasion that we read of Edwin Drood previous to his +mysterious disappearance— + + “The woman’s words are in the rising wind, in the angry sky, in the + troubled water, in the flickering lights. There is some solemn echo + of them even in the Cathedral chime, which strikes a sudden surprise + to his heart as he turns in under the archway of the Gate house. And + so he goes up the postern stair.” + +Passing on the right the handsome residence of the Head Master of the +Grammar School, we cross the Vines, and turn on the right hand to Minor +Canon Row, a terrace of seven red-brick houses at the north end of _St. +Margaret Street_ and on the south side of the Cathedral Close. This +locality bears the appellation, in the before-mentioned book, of Minor +Canon Corner, the residence of the _Rev. Septimus Crisparkle_ and his +mother, the “china shepherdess.” In chapter 6 we find the following +pleasant reference to the same:— + + “Minor Canon Corner was a quiet place in the shadow of the Cathedral, + which the cawing of the rooks, the echoing footsteps of rare passers, + the sound of the Cathedral bell, or the roll of the Cathedral organ, + seemed to render more quiet than absolute silence. . . . Red-brick + walls harmoniously toned down in colour by time, strong-rooted ivy, + latticed windows, panelled rooms, big oaken beams in little places, + and stone-walled gardens where annual fruit yet ripened upon monkish + trees, were the principal surroundings of pretty old Mrs. Crisparkle + and the Reverend Septimus as they sat at breakfast.” + +Immediately north of this position stands the old Cathedral of Rochester, +with its “well-known massive grey square tower,” in which, we may +remember, the respected _Mr. John Jasper_ was engaged as Lay Precentor; +with the reputation of being devoted to his art, and “having done such +wonders with the choir.” In the interior, on the wall of the south-west +transept, is a quaint monument to the memory of _Richard Watts_, a +prominent townsman to whom further reference will be made. Underneath +this is placed a brass memorial-tablet, inscribed— + + “CHARLES DICKENS.—Born at Portsmouth, seventh of February 1812. Died + at Gadshill Place, by Rochester, ninth of June 1870. Buried in + Westminster Abbey. To connect his memory with the scenes in which + his earliest and his latest years were passed, and with the + associations of Rochester Cathedral and its neighbourhood, which + extended over all his life, this tablet, with the sanction of the + Dean and Chapter, is placed by his executors.” + +The author’s latest suggestive sketch, in association with this ancient +fane, may be here suitably recalled:— + + “A brilliant morning shines on the old city. Its antiquities and + ruins are surpassingly beautiful, with the lusty ivy gleaming in the + sun, and the rich trees waving in the balmy air. Changes of glorious + light from moving boughs, songs of birds, scents from gardens, woods, + and fields—or, rather, from the one great garden of the whole + cultivated island in its yielding time—penetrate into the Cathedral, + subdue its earthy odour, and preach the Resurrection and the Life. + The cold stone tombs of centuries ago grow warm; and flecks of + brightness dart into the sternest marble corners of the building, + fluttering there like wings.” + +The Crypts below contain the “buried magnates of ancient time and high +degree,” with whom Durdles, the stonemason, was on terms of intimate +familiarity— + + “In the demolition of impedimental fragments of wall, buttress, and + pavement he has seen strange sights. . . . Thus he will say, + ‘Durdles come upon the old chap, by striking right into the coffin + with his pick. The old chap gave Durdles a look with his open eyes, + as much as to say, Is your name Durdles? Why, my man, I’ve been + waiting for you a Devil of a time!’ And then he turned to powder. + With a two-foot rule always in his pocket, and a mason’s hammer all + but always in his hand, Durdles goes continually sounding, and + tapping all about and about the Cathedral; and whenever he says to + Tope, ‘Tope, here’s another old ’un in here,’ Tope announces it to + the Dean as an established discovery.” + +It is believed that the prototype of this character was an old German +working stonemason, who lived at Rochester many years since. He employed +himself by carving various grotesque figures out of odd fragments of soft +stone found in the Cathedral crypt, which he begged for the purpose; and +it is recollected that he was accustomed to carry these articles of +_vertu_ about the town, tied up in a coloured handkerchief; also that, +whenever he succeeded in effecting a sale, he immediately celebrated the +transaction by getting very tipsy. He lodged at a public-house named +“The Fortune of War,” now known as “_The Lifeboat_.” + +Chapter 12, headed “A Night with Durdles,” contains a description of the +ascent of the Cathedral Tower, to the following effect:— + + “They go up the winding staircase . . . among the cobwebs and the + dust. Twice or thrice they emerge into level low-arched galleries, + whence they can look down into the moonlight nave. . . Anon they + turn into narrower and steeper staircases, and the night air begins + to blow upon them, and the chirp of some startled jackdaw or + frightened rook precedes the heavy beating of wings in a confined + space, and the beating down of dust and straws upon their heads. At + last, leaving their light behind a stair—for it blows fresh up + here—they look down on Cloisterham, fair to see in the moonlight: its + ruined habitations and sanctuaries of the dead, at the tower’s base: + its moss-softened red-tiled roofs and red-brick houses of the living, + clustered beyond: its river winding down from the mist on the + horizon, as though that were its source, and already heaving with a + restless knowledge of its approach towards the sea.” + +Before leaving the Cathedral precincts, on the north side we soon pass +St. Nicholas Church, and may note its pleasant little graveyard—“where +daisies blossom on the verdant sod”—lying near the old walls of the +Castle and its contiguous gardens. It is said that this is the spot +which Dickens himself would have preferred as his last resting-place. + +We now approach the High Street by The College Gate (facing _Pump Lane_), +an old gatehouse with archway, having two exterior doors, standing +angle-wise in the street, with a small postern at the back of the gate. +The house, now occupied by the assistant verger, is a gabled wooden +structure of two storeys, built over the stone gateway beneath. Students +of Dickens will remember that this was the residence of _Mr. Tope_, +“chief verger and showman” of the Cathedral, with whom lodged Mr. John +Jasper, the uncle of Edwin Drood. It is first referred to in the 2nd +chapter of the book: “an old stone gatehouse crossing the Close, with an +arched thoroughfare passing beneath it,” decorated by “pendant masses of +ivy and creeper covering the building’s front.” Here Mr. Jasper +entertained his nephew and his nephew’s friend; and we also read of _Mr. +Grewgious_ climbing “the postern stair.” On this latter occasion the old +lawyer called on Mr. Jasper, visiting Cloisterham in preparation for +their formal release as trustees on Edwin’s attaining his majority. + +Turning to the right, on the opposite side of the High Street, we soon +reach a stone-fronted edifice, with small windows and three gables, known +as The Poor Travellers’ House. This charity was established 1579, by a +local philanthropist, RICHARD WATTS, formerly citizen of Rochester, who +rose from a humble position to be Member of Parliament for the City. He +entertained Queen Elizabeth at his mansion (in 1573), a white house +situated near the Castle gardens, and called _Satis House_. It will be +recollected that Dickens transferred this name to Restoration House, +situated in Crow Lane. It is said that the appellation was bestowed on +the mansion by the virgin queen herself, in recognition of the +“satisfactory” entertainment afforded by her host. _Estella_ gives +another explanation of the title: “It meant, when it was given, that +whoever had this house could want nothing else. They must have been +easily satisfied.” + +Watts’s Charity, the Travellers’ Rest aforesaid, is associated with the +Christmas Number of _Household Words_ (1854), entitled “THE SEVEN POOR +TRAVELLERS;” in which the inscription over the quaint old door is +reproduced as follows:— + + RICHARD WATTS, ESQ., + by his will dated 22 August 1579, + founded this charity + for six poor travellers, + Who not being Rogues, or Proctors + may receive gratis for one night, + Lodging, Entertainment, + and four-pence each. + +The entertainment herein specified comprises for each traveller, a supper +of half a pound of freshly-cooked meat, one pound of bread, and a +half-pint of beer, which is given in addition to the stated fourpence +payable in the morning. + +[This gentleman’s memory is also perpetuated in the charitable annals of +the district by a handsome pile of buildings, in the Elizabethan style, +on the Maidstone Road, called WATTS’S ALMSHOUSES—with pleasure-grounds in +front, affording accommodation for ten men and ten women, who also +receive twelve shillings each per week. The Institution is superintended +by a matron and governed by sixteen trustees.] + +We are doubtless familiar with the Christmas Eve entertainment here +provided by the narrator of “The Seven Poor Travellers,” as above:— + + “It was settled that at nine o’clock that night a Turkey and a piece + of Roast Beef should smoke upon the board, and that I, faint and + unworthy minister for once of Master Richard Watts, should preside as + the Christmas-supper host of the six Poor Travellers.” + +And we must all have a vivid recollection of the processional order of +supply on that festive opportunity:— + + “Myself with the pitcher. + Ben with Beer. + Inattentive Boy with hot Inattentive Boy with hot + plates. plates. + THE TURKEY. + + Female carrying sauces to be heated on the spot. + + THE BEEF. + + Man with Tray on his head, containing Vegetables and + Sundries. + + Volunteer Hostler from Hotel, grinning, + and rendering no assistance.” + +After hearty discussion of the orthodox plum-pudding and mince-pies which +crowned the feast, the company drew round the fire, and the “brown +beauty” of the host—the pitcher, carried first in the procession—was +elevated to the table. It proved to be “a glorious jorum” of hot +Wassail, prepared from the chairman’s special and private receipt, the +materials of which, “together with their proportions and combinations,” +he declines to impart. Glasses being filled therefrom, the toast of the +evening was duly and reverently honoured: “CHRISTMAS! CHRISTMAS EVE, my +friends; when the Shepherds, who were poor travellers too, in their way, +heard the angels sing, ‘On earth peace. Goodwill toward men!’” + +The pen of the “Inimitable” was never in more genial feather than when +inditing this Christmas story, the cheery and sympathetic humour of which +is not excelled even by the “Carol” itself. + +Another Dickensian association with this Rochester Charity may be quoted +in connection with Miss Adelaide Procter. During ’54 this lady had been +a valued contributor to _Household Words_, under the assumed name of +“Berwick,” and some speculation arose in the editorial department as to +the real personality of the writer. The _nom de plume_ being, in course +of time, relinquished, and the secret told, Mr. Dickens sent a letter of +congratulation and appreciation to the young authoress—dated December +17th, 1854—which thus concluded: “Pray accept the blessing and +forgiveness of Richard Watts, though I am afraid you come under _both his +conditions of exclusion_.” + +Retracing the High Street route, we again pass the Gate-house of the +Cathedral Close, and come, immediately on the left, to the noted Bull +Hotel, a commodious establishment of ancient and respectable repute, and +the principal posting-house of the town. This is the celebrated hostelry +at which the Pickwickians sojourned on the occasion of their first visit +to Rochester, per “Commodore” coach from London. In the large +assembly-room upstairs—“a long room, with crimson-covered benches, and +wax candles in glass chandeliers, with the musicians securely confined in +an elevated den”—the memorable Ball took place, on the evening of their +arrival, which was attended by _Mr. Tupman_ and his seductive friend +_Jingle_; the latter affording some information as to the exclusive +character of Rochester society:— + + “‘Wait a minute,’ said the stranger, ‘fun presently—nobs not come + yet—queer place. Dockyard people of upper rank don’t know Dockyard + people of lower rank. Dockyard people of lower rank don’t know small + gentry—small gentry don’t know tradespeople—Commissioner don’t know + anybody.’” + +Here Mr. Jingle, on that fateful occasion, gave dire offence to Doctor +Slammer, of the 97th Regiment, by making himself obtrusively agreeable to +the rich little widow, Mrs. Budger; and we may remember how the Doctor, +with his “hitherto bottled-up indignation effervescing from all parts of +his countenance in a perspiration of passion,” insisted on a hostile +meeting. + +The hotel has a frontage of about 90 feet, with wide pillared gateway, +and extensive stabling at the back. Proceeding past the Guildhall on the +right, towards the end of the street, facing Rochester Bridge, we arrive +at The Crown Hotel, pleasantly situated at the corner of the Esplanade +and High Street, one side of the house facing the Medway; a white-brick +edifice lately rebuilt. It is referred to in chapter 18 of “Edwin Drood” +as “_The Crozier_,” the orthodox hotel at which _Mr. Datchery_ took up +his temporary abode, previous to settling in Cloisterham as “a single +buffer—an idle dog who lived upon his means.” Other visitors to +Rochester may advantageously imitate Mr. Datchery’s example, the position +and conduct of the house being alike excellent. + +Round the corner to the left, commences The Esplanade, extending under +the castle walls, and along the bank of the river for a considerable +distance. This promenade is mentioned in the 13th chapter of “Edwin +Drood,” being the scene of the last interview between Edwin and Rosa, +when they mutually agreed to cancel the irksome bond between them— + + “They walked on by the river. They began to speak of their separate + plans. He would quicken his departure from England, and she would + remain where she was, at least as long as Helena remained. The poor + dear girls should have their disappointment broken to them gently, + and, as the first preliminary, Miss Twinkleton should be confided in + by Rosa, even in advance of the reappearance of Mr. Grewgious. It + should be made clear in all quarters that she and Edwin were the best + of friends. There had never been so serene an understanding between + them since they were first affianced.” + +Leaving Rochester by The Bridge, crossing the Medway, we may bestow a +passing thought on _Richard Doubledick_ as he came over the same, “with +half a shoe to his dusty feet,” in the year 1799, limping into the town +of Chatham. (See “The Seven Poor Travellers,” previously mentioned.) + + [Picture: Gadshill Place] + +On the north side of the river, the Rambler enters the town of _Strood_, +and may proceed through the same, about two miles on the Gravesend Road, +to + + + +GADSHILL PLACE, + + +the last residence of Charles Dickens. It is situated on the left-hand +side, nearly opposite the _Falstaff Inn_. The house was purchased by him +on the 14th of March 1856, for £1790; and he afterwards projected and +carried out many costly additions and improvements thereto. On the +first-floor landing is displayed an illuminated frame (the work of Mr. +Owen Jones), which reads as follows:— + +“THIS HOUSE, GADSHILL PLACE, stands on the summit of Shakespeare’s +Gadshill, ever memorable for its association with Sir John Falstaff in +his noble fancy—‘_But_, _my lads_, _my lads_, _to-morrow morning_, _by +four o’clock_, _early at Gadshill_! _there are pilgrims going to +Canterbury with rich offerings_, _and traders riding to London with fat +purses_: _I have vizards for you all_; _you have horses for +yourselves_.’” + +On this residence Dickens had fixed his choice in his boyish days. It +had always held a prominent place amid the recollections connected with +his childhood. Forster says that “upon first seeing it as he came from +Chatham with his father, and looking up at it with admiration, he had +been promised that he might live in it himself, or some such house, when +he came to be a man, if he would only work hard enough.” It is pleasant +to record that this ambition was gratified in after life, when the dream +of his boyhood was realised. + +In the contiguous shrubbery was placed a Swiss Chalet, presented to +Dickens by his friend Mr. Fechter, which arrived from Paris in +ninety-four pieces, fitting like the joints of a puzzle. Our author was +fond of working in this chalet during the summer months; and in it, much +of the material of his latest work was prepared. + +In sad association with Gadshill Place, we must refer to the unexpected +Death of Charles Dickens, which occurred here on the 9th of June 1870. +He had been feeling weary and fatigued for some days previous to this +date, but had nevertheless continued to work with cheerfulness, writing +in the chalet, in preparation of the sixth number of “Edwin Drood.” On +the 8th of June, whilst at dinner, he was suddenly attacked with +apoplexy, and never spoke afterwards; and on the evening of the following +day—with one rolling tear and one deep sigh—his gentle spirit soared +beyond these earthly shadows, + + “Into the Land of the Great Departed, + Into the Silent Land.” + +An interval being allowed for refreshments at the Falstaff Inn, _à +discrétion_, we may resume the road onwards to the nearest station of +HIGHAM—about a mile distant—whence the South-Eastern Railway may be taken +for the homeward journey. At five miles’ distance we reach Gravesend, +which is situated at the foot of the hills, extending for some two miles +on the south side of the Thames. This town is the boundary of the port +of London, at which many outward and homeward bound vessels on foreign +service receive or discharge their passengers and freight. As we pass +this station we may remember that in chapter 57 of “David Copperfield,” +Gravesend is referred to as the starting-point of Mr. Peggotty and his +niece, emigrating to Australia, and accompanied by _Martha_, _Mrs. +Gummidge_, _and the Micawber family_. The parting with his friends David +describes as follows:— + + “We went over the side into our boat, and lay at a little distance to + see the ship wafted on her course. It was then calm, radiant sunset. + She lay between us and the red light, and every taper line and spar + was visible against the glow. A sight at once so beautiful, so + mournful, and so hopeful, as the glorious ship lying still on the + flushed water, with all the life on board her crowded at the + bulwarks, and there clustering for a moment, bareheaded and silent, I + never saw. Silent, only for a moment. As the sails rose to the + wind, and the ship began to move, there broke from all the boats + three resounding cheers, which those on board took up and echoed + back, and which were echoed and re-echoed . . . Surrounded by the + rosy light . . . they solemnly passed away.” + +Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the Rambler +will arrive in due course at the station of GREENWICH, eighteen miles +from Gravesend. Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the south side +of the line—through _London Street_, turning right by end of _Church +Street_—will lead us to the entrance of Greenwich Park. This well-known +place of popular resort was referred to by Dickens in his first +contributions to the _Evening Chronicle_, 1835, which were afterwards +collected under the name of “Sketches by Boz.” The sketch is entitled +“_Greenwich Fair_,” and gives descriptions of the doings in the park at +that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality— + + “The principal amusement is to drag young ladies up the steep hill + which leads to the Observatory, and then drag them down again at the + very top of their speed, greatly to the derangement of their curls + and bonnet-caps, and much to the edification of lookers-on from + below.” + +From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by _Church +Street_, on the left hand of which, past _London Street_, stands the +Church of St. Alphege, a handsome edifice in classic style. The happy +wedding of _Bella Wilfer_ and _John Rokesmith_, otherwise _Harmon_, here +took place, in the presence of a “gruff and glum old pensioner” from the +neighbouring hospital, with two wooden legs. We may also recall the +circumstance of Mr. and Mrs. Boffin’s attendance, that worthy couple +being hid away near the church organ. + +Following the route northward, we may soon reach _King William Street_, +by the river side, in which is situated Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern. This +is the place where the “lovely woman” and her father once dined together +on the occasion of their “innocent elopement.” (See “Our Mutual Friend,” +chapter 8, Book 2.) It may be also remembered as the hotel at which was +celebrated the wedding dinner of _Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith_ aforesaid, +“dear little Pa” being the honoured guest of that blissful opportunity. +We may here also recollect the dignified bearing of the head waiter—The +Archbishop of Greenwich—“a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a white +cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than _the_ clergyman, and +seemed to have mounted a great deal higher in the church.” + +Leaving GREENWICH, a short ride of twenty minutes (six miles), following +the course of the river, will bring us to the CHARING CROSS TERMINUS, in +central London. + + + + +RAMBLE VII +Excursion to Canterbury and Dover + + +Route by London, Chatham and Dover Railway, _viâ_ Sittingbourne and +Faversham to Canterbury; The Queen’s Head Inn, “the little hotel” +patronised by the Micawbers—By Mercery Lane and Christ Church Gate to +Cathedral Close for King’s School, the Establishment at which David +Copperfield was educated—Dr. Strong’s House—The Fleur de Lys Hotel; Mr. +Dick’s stopping-place at Canterbury—The George and Dragon Inn; the old +London Coach Office—Palace Street and Church of St. Alphege; the scene of +Dr. Strong’s marriage to Miss Annie Markleham—No. 65 North Lane, the +“’umble dwelling” of Uriah Heep, afterwards the residence of the Micawber +Family—71 St. Dunstan Street; Mr. Wickfield’s house, and Home of +Agnes—Canterbury to Dover—Corner of Church and Castle Streets, Market +Place; David’s resting-place—Priory Hill, Stanley Mount; Miss Betsy +Trotwood’s Residence—“The King’s Head”; Mr. Lorry, Lucie Manette, and +Miss Pross—The Staplehurst Disaster—Postscript to “Our Mutual Friend.” + +The excursion proposed in Ramble VI. to Chatham, Rochester, Gadshill, +etc. (see page 82), could be advantageously extended to include +CANTERBURY and DOVER, for visiting the localities in these towns +associated with the history of David Copperfield. + +Beyond Chatham the journey is continued on the LONDON, CHATHAM AND DOVER +RAILWAY, by three minor stations to SITTINGBOURNE, formerly a favourite +resting-place for pilgrims (as its name would seem to indicate) _en +route_ for Canterbury; but the modern mode of travel only now +necessitates a halt of twenty minutes. Passing TEYNSHAM and FAVERSHAM, +the train proceeds by the intermediate station of SELLING, to the fair +old city of + + + +CANTERBURY, + + +pleasantly situated on the banks of the Stour. Seat of the Primate of +England, where, as Mr. Micawber writes, “the society may be described as +a happy admixture of the agricultural and the clerical.” A quaint and +quiet cathedral town, redolent with fragrant memories of _Agnes +Wickfield_, fairest type of English womanhood—her father, and friends. + +Proceeding from the station towards the Cathedral, by CASTLE STREET, we +reach the old Roman road of WATLING STREET (extending from Chester to +Dover), at the south corner of which (right), and facing ST. MARGARET +STREET, stands the “Queen’s Head Inn.” This is “the little hotel” +patronised by Mr. and Mrs. Micawber on the occasion of their first visit +to Canterbury, as related in chapter 17 of “David Copperfield”—“Somebody +turns up.” + + “It was a little inn where Mr. Micawber put up, and he occupied a + little room in it, partitioned off from the commercial room, and + strongly flavoured with tobacco smoke. I think it was over the + kitchen, because a warm greasy smell appeared to come up through the + chinks in the floor, and there was a flabby perspiration on the + walls. I know it was near the bar, on account of the smell of + spirits and jingling of glasses. Here, recumbent on a small sofa, + underneath a picture of a race-horse, with her head close to the + fire, and her feet pushing the mustard off the dumb-waiter at the + other end of the room, was Mrs. Micawber, to whom Mr. Micawber + entered first, saying, ‘My dear, allow me to introduce to you a pupil + of Dr. Strong’s.’” + +It will be remembered that the amiable lady thus referred to, here +confidentially explained to David the reason of their visit to this part +of the country— + + “‘Mr. Micawber was induced to think, on inquiry, that there might be + an opening for a man of his talent in the Medway Coal Trade. Then, + as Mr. Micawber very properly said, the first step to be taken + clearly was to come and see the Medway; which we came and saw. I say + ‘we,’ Master Copperfield, ‘for I never will,’ said Mrs. Micawber with + emotion, ‘I never will desert Mr. Micawber. . . . Being so near + here, Mr. Micawber was of opinion that it would be rash not to come + on and see the Cathedral—firstly, on account of its being so well + worth seeing, and our never having seen it; and, secondly, on account + of the great probability of something turning up in a cathedral + town.’” + +We may also recollect the dinner and convivial evening thereafter, +celebrated two days later at this address, when David attended as the +honoured guest of the occasion— + + “We had a beautiful little dinner. Quite an elegant dish of fish; + the kidney-end of a loin of veal, roasted; fried sausage-meat; a + partridge, and a pudding. There was wine, and there was strong ale; + and after dinner Mrs. Micawber made us a bowl of hot punch with her + own hands. Mr. Micawber was uncommonly convivial. I never saw him + such good company. He made his face shine with the punch, so that it + looked as if it had been varnished all over. He got cheerfully + sentimental about the town, and proposed success to it, observing + that Mrs. Micawber and himself had been made extremely snug and + comfortable there, and that he never should forget the agreeable + hours they had passed in Canterbury.” + +Later on there is recorded in the Copperfield autobiography (chapter 42) +how David, accompanied by his aunt and friends—Messrs. Dick and +Traddles—sojourned for the night at this same hotel. They had arrived at +Canterbury by the Dover Mail, as desired by Mr. Micawber, in readiness to +assist the next day at the memorable “Explosion” which resulted in the +final discomfiture of _Uriah Heep_, “the Forger and the Cheat”— + + “At the hotel where Mr. Micawber had requested us to await him, which + we got into, with some trouble, in the middle of the night, I found a + letter, importing that he would appear in the morning punctually at + half-past nine. After which, we went shivering at that uncomfortable + hour to our respective beds, through various close passages, which + smelt as if they had been steeped for ages in a solution of soup and + stables.” + +Following the course of St. Margaret Street northward, and passing (left) +the old CHURCH OF ST. MARGARET—recently restored by Sir Gilbert Scott—we +soon arrive at the central main thoroughfare, which here divides the +town, extending from St. Dunstan’s Church (west) to the New Dover Road, +leaving Canterbury on the east. + +Crossing the HIGH STREET, and continuing northward through the narrow +thoroughfare of MERCERY LANE (on the opposite side)—once the resort of +the many pilgrims who came aforetime to worship at the shrine of +Thomas-à-Becket—we enter the precincts of the Cathedral by CHRIST CHURCH +GATE (16th century). + +Turning to the right within the Close, and passing the secluded +residences of several “grave and reverend seigniors,” we may find, on the +farther side, King’s School, an educational establishment of good repute +and old foundation, pleasantly and quietly situated. The school is +supervised by certain “worthy and approved good masters,” successors to +the amiable DOCTOR STRONG and assistants, under whose careful tutorship +David Copper-field was educated after his adoption by Miss Betsy +Trotwood. In the commencement of chapter 16 of his autobiography, David +thus describes the place:— + + “Next morning, after breakfast, I entered on school life again. I + went, accompanied by Mr. Wickfield, to the scene of my future + studies—a grave building in a courtyard, with a learned air about it + that seemed very well suited to the stray rooks and jackdaws who came + down from the Cathedral towers to walk with a clerkly bearing on the + grass-plot—and was introduced to my new master, Doctor Strong.” + +Doctor Strong’s Private Residence—at which “some of the higher scholars +boarded”—is an antiquated house, situated at the corner of LADY’S GREEN +(No. 1), at a short distance eastward. Here David was a frequent +visitor, learning particulars of the Doctor’s history, and becoming +intimate with the various personages therewith connected. Pleasant +reminiscences of the doings and sayings of _Mrs. Markleham_—“the Old +Soldier” (so called by the boys “on account of her generalship, and the +skill with which she marshalled great forces of relations against the +Doctor”)—the tender associations which cluster round the story of +_Annie_, the good doctor’s true-hearted wife; with a casual recollection +of the family cousin—_Mr. Jack Maldon_—(no better than he should be)—may +combine to enhance the interest of a visit to this old-fashioned but +comfortable home. + +Crossing the LADY’S GREEN towards the gate of the ancient AUGUSTINIAN +MONASTERY, and proceeding onwards by MONASTERY STREET, we may find at the +end and corner of the street, on the left hand, a noteworthy +antique-looking house, partly incorporated with a second gate of the old +Monastery, at present the residence of a gentleman of the medical +profession. In bygone time this house was a point of considerable +attraction to David during his later school-days at Canterbury, as being +the home of “The Eldest Miss Larkins,” his second love. In chapter 18, +as we may remember, is contained a very pleasant piece of natural +sketching, entitled “A Retrospect,” comprising, _inter alia_, the story +of his youthful passion. David says:— + + “I worship the eldest Miss Larkins. The eldest Miss Larkins is not a + little girl. She is a tall, dark, black-eyed, fine figure of a + woman. The eldest Miss Larkins is not a chicken, for the youngest + Miss Larkins is not that, and the eldest must be three or four years + older. Perhaps the eldest Miss Larkins may be about thirty. My + passion for her is beyond all bounds. . . . Everything that belongs + to her, or is connected with her, is precious to me. Mr. Larkins (a + gruff old gentleman with a double chin, and one of his eyes immovable + in his head) is fraught with interest to me. . . . I regularly take + walks outside Mr. Larkins’s house in the evening, though it cuts me + to the heart to see the officers go in, or to hear them up in the + drawing-room, where the eldest Miss Larkins plays the harp. I even + walk, on two or three occasions, in a sickly spooney manner, round + and round the house after the family are gone to bed, wondering which + is the eldest Miss Larkins’s chamber (and pitching, I dare say now, + on Mr. Larkins’s instead), wishing that a fire would burst out; that + the assembled crowd would stand appalled; that I, dashing through + them with a ladder, might rear it against her window, save her in my + arms, go back for something she had left behind, and perish in the + flames.” + +The Drawing-Room here mentioned is situated above the old Monastery Gate, +between the two towers which stand on either side. We may recollect it +was here that David, having received an invitation to a private ball +given at the Larkins’s, enjoyed his first dance with “his dear divinity;” +afterwards being introduced to _Mr. Chestle_, a hop-grower from the +neighbourhood of Ashford, “a friend of the family,” and—alas for +David!—the future husband of the eldest Miss Larkins— + + “I waltz with the eldest Miss Larkins! I don’t know where, among + whom, or how long. I only know that I swim about in space with a + blue angel, in a state of blissful delirium. . . . I am lost in the + recollection of this delicious interview, and the waltz, when she + comes to me again, with a plain, elderly gentleman, who has been + playing whist all night, upon her arm, and says, ‘Oh, here is my bold + friend! Mr. Chestle wants to know you, Mr. Copperfield.’ I feel at + once that he is a friend of the family, and am much gratified. . . . + I think I am in a happy dream. I waltz again with the eldest Miss + Larkins. She says I waltz so well! I go home in a state of + unspeakable bliss, and waltz in imagination, all night long, with my + arm round the blue waist of my dear divinity.” + +Proceeding westward, we pass along the opposite roadway which faces the +house above referred to, by Church Street St. Paul, and Burgate Street, +to the Old Cathedral entrance. + +As the Rambler returns, again traversing Mercery Lane, there may be noted +on the left—No. 14—a respectable Butcher’s Shop, now in the keeping of +Mr. Cornes. It is evident from its position, near Christ Church Gate, +that this was the establishment where flourished, in days of yore, that +obnoxious “young butcher” who was “the terror of the youth of +Canterbury,” and the especial enemy of the pupils at King’s School. In +chapter 18—“A Retrospect”—Copperfield writes as follows:— + + “There is a vague belief abroad that the beef suet with which he + anoints his hair gives him unnatural strength, and that he is a match + for a man. He is a broad-faced, bull-necked young butcher, with + rough red cheeks, an ill-conditioned mind, and an injurious tongue. + His main use of this tongue is to disparage Dr. Strong’s young + gentlemen. He says publicly that if they want anything he’ll give it + ’em. He names individuals among them (myself included) whom he could + undertake to settle with one hand, and the other tied behind him. He + waylays the smaller boys to punch their unprotected heads, and calls + challenges after me in the open streets. For these sufficient + reasons I resolve to fight the butcher. + + “It is a summer evening, down in a green hollow, at the corner of a + wall. I meet the butcher by appointment. I am attended by a select + body of our boys; the butcher by two other butchers, a young + publican, and a sweep. The preliminaries are adjusted, and the + butcher and myself stand face to face. In a moment the butcher + lights ten thousand candles out of my left eyebrow. In another + moment I don’t know where the wall is, or where I am, or where + anybody is. I hardly know which is myself and which the butcher; we + are always in such a tangle and tussle, knocking about upon the + trodden grass. Sometimes I see the butcher, bloody but confident; + sometimes I see nothing, but sit gasping on my second’s knee; + sometimes I go in at the butcher madly, and cut my knuckles open + against his face, without appearing to discompose him at all. At + last I awake, very queer about the head, as from a giddy sleep, and + see the butcher walking off, congratulated by the two other butchers + and the sweep and publican, and putting on his coat as he goes, from + which I augur justly that the victory is his.” + +But a few years afterwards David—ætat. 17—becomes a better match for his +opponent; and we read in the same chapter how—after his youthful +disappointment _in re_ “the eldest Miss Larkins”—having received new +provocation from the butcher, he goes out to battle a second time, and +gloriously defeats him. + +Turning again on the right into the main central thoroughfare, we may +find, on the south side, the Fleur de Lys Hotel—34 High Street. A +well-appointed and respectable establishment, at which, in the time of +Copperfield’s school-days, Mr. Dick was in the habit of stopping every +alternate Wednesday, arriving from Dover by the stage-coach on his +special fortnightly visits to David. We read that + + “These Wednesdays were the happiest days of Mr. Dick’s life; they + were far from being the least happy of mine. He soon became known to + every boy in the school, and though he never took an active part in + any game but kite-flying, was as deeply interested in all our sports + as any one among us.” + +On the opposite (north) side of the road stands the old-fashioned George +and Dragon Inn—No. 18 High Street. In the days of Copperfield, the +London and Dover Coach, passing _en route_ through Canterbury, stopped +here for change of horses. At this inn, therefore, was the “COACH +OFFICE,” referred to in chapter 17 as being the place of arrival and +departure of Mr. Dick, as aforesaid. This London Coach is also mentioned +in the closing paragraph of the same chapter, David being on his way to +offer Micawber a soothing word of comfort in reply to a dismal letter +just received from that “Beggared Outcast”— + + “Halfway there, I met the London coach with Mr. and Mrs. Micawber up + behind; Mr. Micawber, the very picture of tranquil enjoyment, smiling + at Mrs. Micawber’s conversation, eating walnuts out of a paper bag, + with a bottle sticking out of his breast pocket. As they did not see + me, I thought it best, all things considered, not to see them. So, + with a great weight taken off my mind, I turned into a by-street that + was the nearest way to school, and felt, upon the whole, relieved + that they were gone, though I still liked them very much, + nevertheless.” + +Turning on the right (northward) from High Street, by a short +intermediate road, the Rambler approaches PALACE STREET, on the east side +of which, near the western end of the Cathedral, stands the Church of St. +Alphege. This edifice was casually referred to by the “Old Soldier,” +_Mrs. Markleham_, as the church where the marriage of her daughter Annie +with the worthy Dr. Strong was solemnised. The reference occurs, by way +of interruption on the part of Mrs. M., during a very touching conference +between the doctor and his wife, as related in “Copperfield,” chapter +45—“Mr. Dick fulfils my aunt’s predictions.” + +Passing onwards through ST. PETER’S STREET to WESTGATE STREET, crossing +the western branch of the river, we come by a turning on the right to +NORTH LANE, in which is situated the former Residence of Uriah Heep. It +is a small two-storeyed house with plastered front, on the right side, +near the entrance of the lane—No. 65; the “’umble dwelling” to which +David was introduced as described in chapter 17 of his history— + + “We entered a low, old-fashioned room, walked straight into from the + street, and found there Mrs. Heep, who was the dead image of Uriah, + only short. . . . It was a perfectly decent room, half parlour and + half kitchen, but not at all a snug room. The tea things were set + upon the table, and the kettle was boiling on the hob. There was a + chest of drawers with an escritoire top, for Uriah to read or write + at of an evening; there was Uriah’s blue bag lying down and vomiting + papers; there was a company of Uriah’s books commanded by Mr. Tidd; + there was a corner cupboard, and there were the usual articles of + furniture. I don’t remember that any individual object had a bare, + pinched, spare look, but I do remember that the whole place had.” + +Returning to the main street, we pass the ancient WEST GATE—a fine +specimen of medieval architecture, built between two massive round +towers, with battlements and portcullis—and continue westward by ST. +DUNSTAN STREET. At a short distance onwards, on the south side of the +thoroughfare, nearly facing the approach to the SOUTH-EASTERN Railway +Station, there may be observed—No. 71—an old picturesque timbered house, +with three projecting gables and antiquated windows. This was the +Residence of Mr. Wickfield, as described by David, in chapter 15, when he +was first taken to Canterbury by Miss Betsy Trotwood— + + “At length we stopped before a very old house, bulging out over the + road; a house with long low lattice windows bulging out still + farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends, bulging out too, so + that I fancied the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see who + was passing on the narrow pavement below. It was quite spotless in + its cleanliness. The old-fashioned brass knocker on the low arched + door, ornamented with carved garlands of fruit and flowers, twinkled + like a star; the two stone steps descending to the door were as white + as if they had been covered with fair linen; and all the angles and + corners and carvings and mouldings, and quaint little panes of glass, + and quainter little windows, though as old as the hills, were as pure + as any snow that ever fell upon the hills.” + +This house does not answer in every respect to the full description as +contained in the book. The “little round tower that formed one side of +the house”—containing Uriah Heep’s circular office—being wanting to +complete; but we may readily imagine that this existed, some sixty years’ +since, at the western side, in the space now occupied by some gates and a +roof of more modern erection. This residence must certainly be located +in the _main London road_, as David—referring, at the close of chapter +15, as above, to his recent pedestrian journey from the Metropolis to +Dover—speaks of his “coming through that old city and passing that very +house he lived in, without knowing it.” + +[Some friends resident at Canterbury have been disposed to locate Mr. +Wickfield’s house at No. 15 BURGATE STREET, now in occupation of the +legal firm of Messrs. Fielding and Plummer (names, by-the-bye, which are +used by Dickens in “The Cricket on the Hearth”); but neither the house +nor its position will in any way correspond with Copperfield’s +description of the same.] + + [Picture: The Home of Agnes] + +Here then was the Home of _Agnes_—that finest delineation of feminine +portraiture ever conceived by our author—the central figure of the many +pure and beautiful associations which entwine themselves with the chief +interests of this most charming tale. In view of the personal history +and character of its heroine, we may well understand Thackeray’s eulogium +of his contemporary, as providing for the delectation of his daughters +“the pure pages of David Copperfield;” and we can as readily appreciate +the preference of Charles Dickens himself, when he says:— + + “Of all my books I like this the best. It will be easily believed + that I am a fond parent to every child of my fancy, and that no one + can ever love that family as dearly as I love them. But, like many + fond parents, I have, in my heart of hearts, a favourite child, and + his name is David Copperfield.” + +Leaving CANTERBURY by the direct line of the LONDON, CHATHAM AND DOVER +RAILWAY, we are carried onward through a pleasant country towards the +south-east coast; the white roads of the district indicating the abundant +chalkiness of the soil. In Copperfield’s 13th chapter, narrating the +circumstances of his long tramp to Dover, he says, “From head to foot I +was powdered almost as white with chalk and dust as if I had come out of +a lime-kiln.” + +Passing three minor stations, the train arrives at DOVER PRIORY—about +which more anon—whence it proceeds through an intervening tunnel to the +town station, at the old port of + + + +DOVER. + + +The town is of especial interest to readers of “David Copperfield,” as +containing on its suburban heights the cottage residence of Miss Trotwood +and Mr. Dick. + +Proceeding eastward from the station, a short distance along COMMERCIAL +QUAY; turning left, then right; and walking onwards _viâ_ SNARGATE, BENCH +and KING STREETS, the Rambler may reach the Market Place, centrally +situated in the lower part of the town, and may recall the circumstance +of poor David resting near at hand, on his arrival—a juvenile stranger in +a strange land—after a morning’s fruitless inquiry as to the whereabouts +of his aunt. We read (in chapter 13) as follows:— + + “I inquired about my aunt among the boatmen first, and received + various answers. One said she lived in the South Foreland light, and + had singed her whiskers by doing so; another, that she was made fast + to the great buoy outside the harbour, and could be only visited at + half-tide; a third, that she was locked up in Maidstone Jail for + child stealing; a fourth, that she was seen to mount a broom in the + last high wind and make direct for Calais. The fly-drivers among + whom I inquired were equally jocose and equally disrespectful; and + the shopkeepers, not liking my appearance, generally replied without + hearing what I had to say, that they had got nothing for me. I felt + more miserable and destitute than I had done at any period of my + running away. My money was all gone, I had nothing left to dispose + of; I was hungry, thirsty, and worn out, and seemed as distant from + my end as if I had remained in London.” + +At the junction of CHURCH STREET and CASTLE STREET, both leading to and +from the Market Place—at the northeast angle—there may be noted the +Street Corner at which David sat down, considering the position of +affairs, and where he received the first practical intimation for the +proper direction of his search:— + + “The morning had worn away in these inquiries, and I was sitting on + the step of an empty shop at a street corner, near the Market-place, + deliberating upon wandering towards those other places which had been + mentioned, when a fly-driver, coming by with his carriage, dropped a + horsecloth. Something good-natured in the man’s face, as I handed it + up, encouraged me to ask him if he could tell me where Miss Trotwood + lived. . . . ‘I tell you what,’ said he. ‘If you go up there,’ + pointing with his whip towards the heights, ‘and keep right on till + you come to some houses facing the sea, I think you’ll hear of her.’” + +Leaving the Market Place from its north-west corner, and keeping somewhat +to the left, the Rambler may ascend by CANNON and BIGGIN STREETS, as +indicated by the coachman’s whip, to the heights of Priory Hill, on which +elevation, in the neighbourhood of ST. MARTIN’S PRIORY and the PRIORY +FARM, there may be found several semi-detached residences pleasantly +overlooking the “silver streak” and the intervening town below. Here, in +an eligible position, there may be seen Stanley Mount, a villa residence +of two storeys, with bow windows and contiguous lawn. This house now +replaces an older one, which aforetime was the cottage at which the +worthy Miss Trotwood lived; the miniature lawn in front being the “patch +of green” over which that amiable lady asserted private right of way; +persistently maintaining it against all comers in general, and the Dover +donkey boys in particular— + + “The one great outrage of her life, demanding to be constantly + avenged, was the passage of a donkey over that immaculate spot. In + whatever occupation she was engaged, however interesting to her the + conversation in which she was taking part, a donkey turned the + current of her ideas in a moment, and she was upon him straight. + Jugs of water and watering-pots were kept in secret places, ready to + be discharged on the offending boys, sticks were laid in ambush + behind the door, sallies were made at all hours, and incessant war + prevailed.” + +Midway between Railway Stations and Quay, there may be noted The King’s +Head Hotel, as being the old Coaching House at which the London Mail +terminated its journey, and referred to in “The Tale of Two Cities” by +the name of “The Royal George.” Here may be recalled the interview +related in chapter 4, which took place at this hotel between _Mr. Lorry_ +and _Miss Manette_, and at which the reader is first introduced to the +eccentric _Miss Pross_—“dressed in some extraordinary tight-fitting +fashion”; wearing on “her head a most wonderful bonnet, like a Grenadier +measure (and a good measure too) or a great Stilton cheese.” + +Returning to London by South-Eastern Rail, the Rambler will pass, about +half-way on the road, the picturesque village of Staplehurst. Near this +station it may be remembered that, on June 9th, 1865, a sad disaster +occurred to the train in which Mr. Dickens was a traveller. The +_Postscript_ to “Our Mutual Friend” contains the following reference:— + + “Mr. and Mrs. Boffin (in their manuscript dress) were on the + South-Eastern Railway with me, in a terribly destructive accident. + When I had done what I could to help others, I climbed back into my + carriage—nearly turned over a viaduct, and caught aslant upon the + turn—to extricate the worthy couple. They were very much soiled, but + otherwise unhurt. . . . I remember with devout thankfulness that I + can never be much nearer parting company with my readers for ever + than I was then, until there shall be written against my life the two + words with which I have this day closed this book—The End.” + + + + +RAMBLE VIII +_Excursion to Henley-on-Thames_ + + +Route by Great Western Railway _viâ_ Maidenhead and Twyford to Henley—The +Red Lion Inn, place of accommodation for Mr. Eugene Wrayburn—Marriage of +Mr. Wrayburn and Lizzie Hexam—The Anchor Inn, the “little inn” at which +Bella Wilfer first visited Lizzie Hexam—Henley Railway Station—The Tow +Path, scene of the interview between Lizzie and Eugene—Marsh Mill, at +which Lizzie was employed—Neighbourhood where Betty Higden died—Shiplake +Churchyard, where Betty was buried—“A cry for help”—West bank of Thames, +Henley Bridge and Poplar Point, the neighbourhood where occurred Bradley +Headstone’s attack on Eugene Wrayburn—Lizzie’s walk by Marsh Lock to the +Eastern Tow Path beyond Henley Bridge—Her rescue of Eugene—Henley _viâ_ +Aston and Medmenham to Hurley Lock, “Plashwater Weir Mill” Lock, Rogue +Riderhood, Deputy Lockkeeper—Final scene of the Tragedy—Churchyard of +Stoke Pogis—Mr. Micawber’s Quotation—The Homeward Journey—John Harmon’s +Reflections. + +A very delightful country excursion may be made for visiting the +neighbourhood of Henley-on-Thames, of especial interest to the readers of +“Our Mutual Friend.” + +It may be remembered that _Lizzie Hexam_, desirous of avoiding the +attentions of her (then) unworthy lover, _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_, left +London secretly, with the assistance of Riah—representative of the +honourable firm of Messrs. Pubsey and Co.; that, by his recommendation, +she obtained a situation at a PAPER MILL (then under Jewish management), +at some distance from the Metropolis, and remained for a time undisturbed +in her country employment; that, thereafter, _Eugene Wrayburn_ obtained +her address by bribing the drunken father of “_Jenny Wren_,” the dolls’ +dressmaker, and so followed Lizzie to her retreat, being in his turn +watched and followed by the passionate and jealous schoolmaster, _Bradley +Headstone_, who attempted his life on the river bank; that, near at hand, +was the ANGLER’S INN, to which Eugene—nearly dead—was carried by the +heroic and devoted Lizzie, who saved him from a watery grave, and where +“effect was given to the dolls’ dressmaker’s discovery,” one night, some +weeks later, by their romantic marriage, while it was yet doubtful +whether the bridegroom would survive; that the death of _Betty Higden_ +occurred “ON THE BORDERS OF OXFORDSHIRE,” near the mill at which _Lizzie +Hexam_ was engaged, Lizzie herself attending the last moments of the +dying woman, and accepting her last request; that in accordance with such +request poor Betty was decently interred in a contiguous churchyard, the +charges being defrayed by her own hard earnings, specially saved for the +purpose; and that, on this occasion, the first meeting of Lizzie and +_Miss Bella Wilfer_ took place, when a very interesting and touching +interview ensued, which greatly assisted Bella in confirmation of a brave +and righteous decision _in re_ money _versus_ love. Also that, at no +great distance from this locality, was situated “PLASHWATER WEIR MILL +LOCK,” where _Rogue Riderhood_ did duty as deputy lock-keeper, and where, +at the last, he and _Bradley Headstone_ were drowned. + +These localities are in the neighbourhood of HENLEY, and may be readily +verified by the intelligent Rambler, adopting the excursion by land and +water, as subjoined. + +Leaving PADDINGTON TERMINUS of the Great Western Railway, we pass +WESTBOURNE PARK JUNCTION, and the well-arranged grounds of _Kensal Green +Cemetery_ (in which repose the mortal remains of Leigh Hunt, Sidney +Smith, John Leech, and Thackeray) on the right, travelling westward by +the suburban stations of _Acton_, _Ealing_, and _Castle Hill_, and cross +the Wharncliffe Viaduct to HANWELL. + +To the left may be seen the handsome building of the MIDDLESEX LUNATIC +ASYLUM. We next arrive at SOUTHALL, and afterwards cross the Grand +Junction Canal to HAYES and WEST DRAYTON. Our train now passes from +Middlesex to Buckinghamshire, and steams onwards in the neighbourhood of +_Langley Park_—seen on the right. The tower of Langley Church may be +observed on the left, rising from the trees, as we speed forward to +SLOUGH, where we obtain a distant glimpse of the Royal Castle of Windsor, +two miles southward. + +Resuming the journey we come, in four miles’ run, to the pleasant village +of TAPLOW, on the borders of the Thames (here dividing the counties of +Buckinghamshire and Berkshire), and within easy distance of _Burnham +Beeches_, a favourite picnic resort. The train now crosses the river, +next arriving at MAIDENHEAD, a market town on the Thames. On the right, +observation may be taken of Maidenhead Bridge, a noble erection of +thirteen arches. Thereafter we soon arrive at TWYFORD JUNCTION, where we +change (unless seated in a special through carriage) for Henley, situated +four miles northward, and served by a branch line. The town itself is +very pleasantly situated on the Thames, with an old church and handsome +bridge, but is of special interest to Dickensian students as containing +the INN at which _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_ found accommodation on the +occasion of his journey in pursuit of Lizzie Hexam. See “Our Mutual +Friend,” book 3, chapter 1, in which Bradley Headstone, returning to +Plashwater Weir, is described as reporting the circumstance to the deputy +lock-keeper— + + “‘Lock ho! Lock.’ It was a light night, and a barge coming down + summoned him (Riderhood) out of a long doze. In due course he had + let the barge through and was alone again, looking to the closing of + his gates, when Bradley Headstone appeared before him, standing on + the brink of the Lock. ‘Halloa,’ said Riderhood. ‘Back a’ready, + T’otherest?’ ‘He has put up for the night at an Angler’s Inn,’ was + the fatigued and hoarse reply. ‘He goes on, up the river, at six in + the morning. I have come back for a couple of hours’ rest.’” + +The Red Lion Inn thus referred to is situated north of Henley Bridge, on +the west bank of the river, and is a favourite resort for disciples of +Izaak Walton and boating men in general. Here it was that Eugene +Wrayburn—after the murderous attack by the schoolmaster—was brought +almost lifeless by Lizzie, when rescued by her from the river, as +narrated in chapter 6— + + “She ran the boat ashore, went into the water, released him from the + line, and by main strength lifted him in her arms and laid him in the + bottom of the boat. He had fearful wounds upon him, and she bound + them up with her dress torn into strips. Else, supposing him to be + still alive, she foresaw that he must bleed to death before he could + be landed at his inn, which was the nearest place for succour. . . . + She rowed hard—rowed desperately, but never wildly—and seldom removed + her eyes from him in the bottom of the boat. She had so laid him + there as that she might see his disfigured face; it was so much + disfigured that his mother might have covered it, but it was above + and beyond disfigurement in her eyes. The boat touched the edge of + inn lawn, sloping gently to the water. There were lights in the + windows, but there chanced to be no one out of doors. She made the + boat fast, and again by main strength took him up, and never laid him + down until she laid him down in the house.” + +The landing-place and patch of inn lawn, above indicated, may now be +verified as belonging to the “RED LION” at Henley aforesaid. The lawn is +a favourite standpoint for spectators interested in the HENLEY ROYAL +REGATTA, which takes place every year usually about the beginning of +July. + +The marriage of Eugene and Lizzie took place at this same inn some weeks +later, while it was yet uncertain that Eugene would recover; the _Rev. +Frank Milvey_ officiating at the bedside, _Bella_ and her husband, _Mr. +Lightwood_, _Mrs. Milvey_, and _Jenny Wren_ being duly in attendance— + + “They all stood round the bed, and Mr. Milvey, opening his book, + began the service, so rarely associated with the shadow of death; so + inseparable in the mind from a flush of life and gaiety and health + and hope and joy. Bella thought how different from her own sunny + little wedding, and wept. Mrs. Milvey overflowed with pity, and wept + too. The dolls’ dressmaker, with her hands before her face, wept in + her golden bower. Reading in a low, clear voice, and bending over + Eugene, who kept his eyes upon him, Mr. Milvey did his office with + suitable simplicity. As the bridegroom could not move his hand, they + touched his fingers with the ring, and so put it on the bride. When + the two plighted their troth, she laid her hand on his, and kept it + there. When the ceremony was done, and all the rest departed from + the room, she drew her arm under his head, and laid her own head down + on the pillow by his side. ‘Undraw the curtains, my dear girl,’ said + Eugene, after a while, ‘and let us see our wedding-day.’ The sun was + rising, and his first rays struck into the room, as she came back and + put her lips to his. ‘I bless the day!’ said Eugene. ‘I bless the + day!’ said Lizzie.” + +[The clergyman and friends who assisted on this interesting occasion as +above, left London from Waterloo Station. We may remember that Mrs. +Rokesmith, escorted by Mr. Lightwood, came into town by rail from +Greenwich. Thus they would change trains at WATERLOO JUNCTION, and adopt +the _South-Western Route_ as being the more convenient, travelling to +Reading, and driving thence to Henley. It was at this terminus that +Bradley Headstone first heard (from Mr. Milvey) of the intended wedding, +and was so seriously upset by the news, that an attack of epilepsy ensued +in consequence. We thus read in chapter 11, book 4, with reference to +Bella and her escort:— + + “From Greenwich they started directly for London, and in London they + waited at a railway station until such time as the Rev. Frank Milvey, + and Margaretta, his wife, with whom Mortimer Lightwood had been + already in conference, should come and join them. . . . Then the + train rattled among the house-tops, and among the ragged sides of + houses, torn down to make way for it, over the swarming streets, and + under the fruitful earth, until it shot across the river. . . . A + carriage ride succeeded near the solemn river. . . . They drew near + the chamber where Eugene lay.” + +This is certainly descriptive of the SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, and is _not_ +applicable to the Great Western Route.] + +For full particulars the reader is referred to chapter 11, book 4. On +the occasion of Bella Wilfer’s FIRST VISIT to Henley, and the +introduction of the two girls to each other, as narrated in chapter 9, +book 3 (in association with the burial of old Betty Higden), mention is +made of “_the little inn_,” at which Bella’s friends were then +accommodated. This was _not_ the “Red Lion,” but, in all probability, +was The Anchor Inn, a small, but very comfortable hostelry in _Friday +Street_, near the river. Visitors desiring to combine economy with +homeliness, are recommended to follow Miss Wilfer’s lead in this regard, +and commit themselves to the hospitable care of the present landlord. + +The Railway Station at Henley is referred to in the last-named chapter as +being near at hand, when “the Rev. Frank and Mrs. Frank, and Sloppy, and +Bella and the Secretary set out to walk to it;” the two last dropping +behind, for a little confidential conversation on the road. We read that + + “The railway, at this point knowingly shutting a green eye and + opening a red one, they had to run for it. As Bella could not run + easily so wrapped up, the Secretary had to help her. When she took + her opposite place in the carriage corner, the brightness in her face + was so charming to behold, that on her exclaiming, ‘What beautiful + stars and what a glorious night!’ the Secretary said, ‘Yes,’ but + seemed to prefer to see the night and the stars in the light of her + lovely little countenance, to looking out of window.” + +A short walk of five minutes from the station, southward by the riverside +(west bank), will bring the Rambler to The Tow Path, the scene of that +memorable interview between Lizzie and Eugene, recorded in chapter 6, +book 4, as taking place previous to the catastrophe by which Wrayburn +nearly lost his life. The path leads to Marsh Mill, about half a mile +from Henley; a large and important paper mill, now in the occupation of +Mr. Wells, situated near the weir, with its long wooden bridge leading to +the lock. This was the mill at which Lizzie Hexam, secretly leaving +London, found refuge and occupation, on the recommendation of her old +friend Mr. Riah, her worthy employers being a firm of Hebrew nationality. +We first read of this mill in connection with the closing scenes of +_Betty Higden’s_ history, as narrated in chapter 8, book 3, and headed +“The end of a long journey”— + + “There now arose in the darkness a great building full of lighted + windows. Smoke was issuing from a high chimney in the rear of it, + and there was the sound of a water-wheel at the side. Between her + and the building lay a piece of water, in which the lighted windows + were reflected, and on its nearest margin was a plantation of trees. + ‘I humbly thank the Power and the Glory,’ said Betty Higden, holding + up her withered hands, ‘that I have come to my journey’s end!’” + +The Death of Betty here occurred; as, sinking on the ground, and +supporting herself against a tree “whence she could see, beyond some +intervening trees and branches, the lighted windows,” her strength gave +way— + + “‘I am safe here,’ was her last benumbed thought. ‘When I am found + dead at the foot of the Cross, it will be by some of my own sort; + some of the working people who work among the lights yonder. I + cannot see the lighted windows now, but they are there. I am + thankful for all!’” + +We have the satisfaction of reading that the poor woman’s hopes were +realised, for _Lizzie Hexam_ returning from the mill, found her lying +among the trees as described, and tended her at the last, with helpful +and loving hands— + + “A look of thankfulness and triumph lights the worn old face. The + eyes, which have been darkly fixed upon the sky, turn with meaning in + them towards the compassionate face from which the tears are + dropping, and a smile is on the aged lips as they ask, ‘What is your + name, my dear?’ ‘My name is Lizzie Hexam.’ ‘I must be sore + disfigured. Are you afraid to kiss me?’ The answer is, the ready + pressure of her lips upon the cold but smiling mouth. ‘Bless ye! + Now lift me, my love.’ Lizzie Hexam very softly raised the + weather-stained grey head, and lifted her as high as Heaven.” + +The Burial, as detailed in the following chapter, must have taken place +in the little churchyard of the contiguous village of SHIPLAKE (about +three-quarters of a mile distant), the service being conducted by the +Rev. Frank Milvey, and attended by the Secretary and poor _Sloppy_ as +mourners. + +“A cry for help.” It may be interesting to indicate the local sequence +of events on that memorable Saturday evening, when Bradley Headstone, +impelled by wild resentment and furious jealousy, did his best to murder +his more favoured rival, as described in chapter 6, book 4, under the +above heading. It will be remembered that, on the evening in question, +Eugene Wrayburn having forced an appointment with Lizzie Hexam, met her +on the path by the river, when a very affecting farewell interview +ensued. This interview occurring on the towpath—tolerably secluded at +and after twilight—about halfway between Henley and Marsh (see _Marcus +Stone’s_ Illustration, “The Parting by the River”), Eugene strolled +slowly towards his inn, while Lizzie walked sorrowfully, as a matter of +course, in the opposite direction. We read that, passing Bradley +Headstone (disguised as a bargeman)— + + “Eugene Wrayburn went the opposite way, with his hands behind him, + and his purpose in his thoughts. He passed the sheep, and passed the + gate, and came within hearing of the village sounds, and came to the + bridge. The inn where he stayed, like the village and the mill, was + not across the river, but on that side of the stream on which he + walked . . . feeling out of humour for noise or company, he crossed + the bridge, and sauntered on: looking up at the stars as they seemed + one by one to be kindled in the sky, and looking down at the river as + the same stars seemed to be kindled deep in the water. A + landing-place overshadowed by a willow, and a pleasant boat lying + moored there among some stakes, caught his eye as he passed along.” + +Thus it will be seen how Eugene, following the _west bank_ of the Thames +to Henley, and thereafter crossing Henley Bridge, pursued the course of +his meditations past the landing-place on the opposite side, walking +onwards by the towpath thence continued, in the direction of POPLAR +POINT. + +The Murderous Attack upon him by Headstone, in the darkening shades of +nightfall, must have here occurred, not far from the bridge, and opposite +to the town, Wrayburn being thrown into the river by his assailant, and +so left for dead. + +Lizzie Hexam, endeavouring to regain composure, went towards Marsh, and +must have crossed by The Lock Gates to the main road beyond, turning in +the direction of Henley. She thereafter walked slowly onwards in the +neighbourhood of the bridge at its eastern side, and thus unconsciously +came again near to, and following behind, her lover, on the + +Eastern Tow Path beyond the bridge, as above mentioned. Hereabouts, +hearing “the sound of blows, a faint groan, and a fall into the river,” +she ran towards the spot from which the sounds had come—not far distant, +on the riverside path, northward from the bridge. We are all familiar +with the story of Lizzie’s heroic rescue of Eugene from the river. +Finding a boat on the north side of HENLEY BRIDGE— + + “She passed the scene of the struggle—yonder it was—on her left, well + over the boat’s stern—she passed on her right the end of the village + street (New Street) . . . looking as the boat drove, everywhere, + everywhere for the floating face.” + +Finding and recovering the body, she rowed “back against the stream,” +landing at the lawn of the RED LION INN as previously described. + +The Rambler may now take a short trip by boat down the river six miles +from Henley, for visiting THE LOCK where _Rogue Riderhood_ acted for a +time, as deputy superintendent. + +Leaving HENLEY, we may note, on the left, the mansion of _Fawley Court_, +beyond which, passing REGATTA ISLAND, we arrive at GREENLANDS, in the +occupation of the Right Hon. W. H. Smith (not unknown in political and +literary circles). The house is pleasantly situated at the bend of the +river. We next arrive at _Hambledon Lock_, two miles from Henley; +thereafter reaching ASTON, as we proceed down the stream to MEDMENHAM, +with its picturesque Abbey, founded in the reign of King John, standing +on the north bank. Below Medmenham is Hurley Lock, which is our present +destination. It is contiguous to NEW LOCK WEIR, and to the village of +HURLEY, situated on the right bank of the river. This is known to +readers of “Our Mutual Friend” as Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, at whose +gates _Riderhood_—whilom a “waterside character,” the partner of _Gaffer +Hexam_—officiated as deputy lock-keeper. We are introduced to him as not +very wide-awake in this capacity, in chapter 1, book 4— + + “PLASHWATER WEIR MILL LOCK looked tranquil and pretty on an evening + in the summer-time. A soft air stirred the leaves of the fresh green + trees, and passed like a smooth shadow over the river, and like a + smoother shadow over the yielding grass. The voice of the falling + water, like the voices of the sea and the wind, was an outer memory + to a contemplative listener; but not particularly so to Mr. + Riderhood, who sat on one of the blunt wooden levers of his + lock-gates, dozing.” + +To this locality came Bradley Headstone, who, for sinister reasons of his +own, cultivated Riderhood’s acquaintance, making The Lock House a +convenient place of call, as he pursued Eugene Wrayburn in his quest, +full details of which may be found in chapters 1 and 7, book 6. Here +also was enacted the final scene of the tragedy, as narrated in chapter +15, book 4, when Bradley Headstone drowned himself and Riderhood in the +Lock— + + “Bradley had caught him round the body. He seemed to be girdled with + an iron ring. They were on the brink of the Lock, about midway + between the two sets of gates. . . . ‘Let go!’ said Riderhood. + ‘Stop! What are you trying at? You can’t drown me. Ain’t I told + you that the man as has come through drowning can never be drowned? + I can’t be drowned.’ ‘I can be!’ returned Bradley, in a desperate, + clenched voice. ‘I am resolved to be. I’ll hold you living, and + I’ll hold you dead. Come down!’ Riderhood went over into the smooth + pit, backward, and Bradley Headstone upon him. When the two were + found, lying under the ooze and scum behind one of the rotting gates, + Riderhood’s hold had relaxed, probably in falling, and his eyes were + staring upward. But he was girdled still with Bradley’s iron ring, + and the rivets of the iron ring held tight.” + +By road, HURLEY LOCK is but four miles distant from Henley; a pedestrian, +therefore, could make an easy short cut, as against a rower up the +stream; hence the assurance given by the deputy lock-keeper to his +impatient visitor (see book 4, chapter 1):— + + “‘Ha, ha! Don’t be afeerd, T’otherest,’ said Riderhood. ‘The + T’other’s got to make way agin the stream, and he takes it easy. You + can soon come up with him. But wot’s the good of saying that to you! + You know how fur you could have outwalked him betwixt anywheres about + where he lost the tide—say Richmond—and this, if you had had a mind + to it.’” + +Travelling homeward on the return to London, it may be desirable to break +the journey at SLOUGH—eighteen miles from Paddington—whence may be +conveniently visited the rustic village and cemetery of Stoke Pogis, +about a mile and a half northward from the station. The latter contains +the tomb of the poet Gray, and is the scene of his famous “Elegy in a +Country Churchyard.” It may be remembered that from this well-known poem +Mr. Micawber’s Quotation was taken, as an appropriate conclusion to one +of his many friendly but grandiloquent epistles, confirming an important +appointment. In “David Copperfield,” at the end of chapter 49, we read +of Micawber’s expressed determination to unmask his “foxey” employer, and +to crush “to undiscoverable atoms that transcendent and immortal +hypocrite and perjurer, Heep”; and we may recall his “most secret and +confidential letter,” soon afterwards received by David, as containing +the following reference:— + + “The duty done, and act of reparation performed, which can alone + enable me to contemplate my fellow mortal, I shall be known no more. + I shall simply require to be deposited in that place of universal + resort, where + + ‘Each in his narrow cell for ever laid, + The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.’ + + With the plain Inscription, + WILKINS MICAWBER.” + +So, as the evening shades prevail, “near and nearer drawn” through “the +glimmering landscape,” we again approach the lights of London Town, with +(it may be hoped) pleasant reminiscences of the foregoing excursions. +Should the Rambler, like Mr. John Harmon on a similar occasion, be +accompanied by a friend, who perchance may be “nearer and dearer than all +other,” he may appropriately endorse John Harmon’s reflections as he made +the same journey under blissful circumstances (see “Our Mutual Friend,” +book 3, end of chapter 9)— + + “O, boofer lady, fascinating boofer lady! If I were but legally + executor of Johnny’s will. If I had but the right to pay your legacy + and take your receipt! Something to this purpose surely mingled with + the blast of the train as it cleared the stations, all knowingly + shutting up their green eyes and opening their red ones when they + prepared to let the boofer lady pass.” + + + + +RAMBLE IX +_By Great Eastern Route from London to Yarmouth_ + + +Liverpool Street Station—Epping Forest—Buckhurst Hill—Chigwell +Village—Chigwell Churchyard; Resting-Place of Barnaby Rudge and his +Mother—“Grip” the Raven—The “King’s Head Inn”—“The Maypole”—Mr. +Cattermole’s Frontispiece—The Bar—The Landlord, John Willett—Dolly +Varden—The Visit of the Varden Family—The Warren; Residence of Mr. +Haredale and his Niece—By Main Line to Ipswich—The Great White Horse +Hotel in Tavern Street—The Apartment of the Middle-Aged Lady—Mr. +Pickwick’s Misadventure—St. Clement’s Church—Job Trotter—The Green Gate, +Residence of G. Nupkins, Esq.—Mary the Pretty Housemaid—Sam Weller’s +First Love—Ipswich to Great Yarmouth—Mr. Peggotty’s Boat-house—Home of +Little Emily—The Two London Coaches—The “Angel Hotel”—David’s Dinner in +the Coffee-Room—The Friendly Waiter—The “Star Hotel”—Headquarters of +Copperfield and Steerforth—Miss Mowcher’s First Introduction—Unlocalised +Sites—Blundeston—Blunderstone Rookery—Early Childhood of +Copperfield—Somerleyton Park. + +A pleasant drive from London to Chigwell is described in chapter 19 of +“Barnaby Rudge,” and may be still taken about twelve miles by road, +starting from Whitechapel Church _viâ_ Mile-End and Bow, thence crossing +the River Lea, and proceeding, in the county of Essex, by way of +_Stratford_, _Leytonstone_, _Snaresbrook_, and _Wilcox Green_. But time +will be saved by adopting a convenient train, leaving Liverpool Street +Station (Great Eastern Railway) for _Buckhurst Hill_—on the Ongar Branch +Line—in the neighbourhood of Epping Forest, a district formerly preserved +by the old monarchs of Merrie England for the enjoyment of field sports +and the pleasures of the chase. + +From this point a country walk (under two miles), turning eastward, and +to the left after crossing the long intervening bridge, will lead in due +course to the main road at Chigwell. Coming into the village we pass, at +the corner on the right, Chigwell Church, surrounded by its quiet +churchyard. This locality will be remembered as having afforded a +resting-place to Barnaby and his mother after their visit to Mr. Haredale +at _The Warren_ (chapter 25). “In the churchyard they sat down to take +their frugal dinner”—Grip, the raven, being one of the party—“walking up +and down when he had dined with an air of elderly complacency, which was +strongly suggestive of his having his hands under his coat tails, and +appearing to read the tombstones with a very critical taste.” On the +other side of the main road, a very little way onward (left), stands the +old King’s Head Inn, the original “local habitation,” if not “the name,” +of the ancient hostelry so intimately associated with the central and +domestic interests of the aforesaid historical novel, and known to us +therein as The Maypole, “an old building with more gable ends than a lazy +man would care to count on a sunny day; its windows, old diamond pane +lattices; its floors sunken and uneven; its ceilings blackened by the +hand of time, and heavy with massive beams; with its overhanging storeys, +drowsy little panes of glass, and front bulging out and projecting over +the pathway.” + + [Picture: The “King’s Head,” Chigwell] + +This description is appropriate to the house as it stands at present, a +fine old specimen of the timbered architecture of bygone centuries; but +it may be remarked that THE ILLUSTRATION drawn by Cattermole, which forms +the frontispiece in the recent editions of “Barnaby Rudge,” is altogether +beside the mark; for the designer has furnished therein, an elaborate and +ornate picture of the old inn which does not correspond with fact, but +rather remains in evidence of the beauty and exuberance of his artistic +imagination. Here, then, we may recall the visit of Mr. and Mrs. Varden, +accompanied by their daughter, the charming Dolly, “the very pink and +pattern of good looks, in a smart little cherry-coloured mantle, with a +hood of the same drawn over her head, and, upon the top of that hood, a +little straw hat, trimmed with cherry-coloured ribbons, and worn the +merest trifle on one side—just enough, in short, to make it the wickedest +and most provoking head-dress that ever malicious milliner devised.” + +In the same connection The “Bar” of the old “Maypole,” the preparation +for dinner, and the kitchen are thus described:— + + “All bars are snug places, but the Maypole’s was the very snuggest, + cosiest, and completest bar that ever the wit of man devised. Such + amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes; such gleaming tankards + dangling from pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would + hold them to their lips; such sturdy little Dutch kegs ranged in rows + on shelves; so many lemons hanging in separate nets, and forming the + fragrant grove already mentioned in this chronicle, suggestive, with + goodly loaves of snowy sugar stowed away hard by, of punch, idealised + beyond all mortal knowledge; such closets, such presses, such drawers + full of pipes, such places for putting things away in hollow window + seats, all crammed to the throat with eatables, drinkables, or + savoury condiments; lastly, and to crown all, as typical of the + immense resources of the establishment, and its defiances to all + visitors to cut and come again, such a stupendous cheese! + + “It is a poor heart that never rejoices—it must have been the + poorest, weakest, and most watery heart that ever beat which would + not have warmed towards the Maypole bar. Mrs. Varden’s did directly. + She could no more have reproached John Willet among those household + gods, the kegs and bottles, lemons, pipes, and cheese, than she could + have stabbed him with his own bright carving-knife. The order for + dinner too—it might have soothed a savage. ‘A bit of fish,’ said + John to the cook, ‘and some lamb chops (breaded, with plenty of + ketchup), and a good salad, and a roast spring chicken, with a dish + of sausages and mashed potatoes, or something of that sort.’ + Something of that sort! The resources of these inns! To talk + carelessly about dishes which in themselves were a first-rate holiday + kind of dinner, suitable to one’s wedding-day, as something of that + sort, meaning, if you can’t get a spring chicken, any other trifle in + the way of poultry will do—such as a peacock, perhaps! The kitchen, + too, with its great broad cavernous chimney; the kitchen, where + nothing in the way of cookery seemed impossible; where you could + believe in anything to eat they chose to tell you of. Mrs. Varden + returned from the contemplation of these wonders to the bar again, + with a head quite dizzy and bewildered. Her housekeeping capacity + was not large enough to comprehend them. She was obliged to go to + sleep. Waking was pain, in the midst of such immensity.” + +The Warren, residence of Mr. Haredale and his niece, an old red-brick +house, standing in its own grounds, was situated about a mile eastward +from the Maypole, and was thence accessible by a path across the fields, +from the garden exit of the inn, to its position on the border of +Hainault Forest. (See final paragraph of chapter 19, “Barnaby Rudge.”) +From many suggestions in the book, it occupied, in all probability, the +site of _Forest House_, not a great distance from Chigwell Row; but of +this no certainty exists. + + * * * * * + +CHIGWELL TO IPSWICH. It will be best to return from _Buckhurst Hill_ by +rail to Stratford or Liverpool Street, in order to travel by fast main +line train, to the good old town of Ipswich, our next destination. The +journey—_viâ_ Chelmsford and Colchester—will occupy about two hours, +during which we may recall the memorable occasion of Mr. Pickwick’s +excursion per coach from the “Bull Inn,” Whitechapel, to this ancient +capital of Suffolk, attended by the faithful Sam, Mr. Weller, senior, +driving, and beguiling the tediousness of the way with conversation of +considerable interest—“possessing the inestimable charm of blending +amusement with instruction.” Full details will be found on reference to +the “Pickwick Papers,” chapter 22, together with the account of Mr. P.’s +introduction to his fellow-traveller, Mr. Peter Magnus, “a red-haired +man, with an inquisitive nose and blue spectacles.” On arrival at the +station at Ipswich, the wayfarer, crossing by bridge over the _Gipping_ +river, may proceed straight onwards through _Princes Street_ (five +minutes) to _Tavern Street_. Turning to the right, along this +thoroughfare, he will soon see the Great White Horse Hotel, on the left +side of Tavern Street. Tramcars from the station pass the hotel; also +omnibus meets all trains. Telegraphic address—Pickwick, Ipswich. In the +chapter before referred to is contained the following description:— + + “In the main street of Ipswich, on the left-hand side of the way, a + short distance after you have passed through the open space fronting + the Town Hall, stands an inn, known far and wide by the appellation + of the Great White Horse, rendered the more conspicuous by a stone + statue of some rapacious animal with flowing mane and tail, + distinctly resembling an insane cart-horse, which is elevated above + the principal door. The Great White Horse is famous in the + neighbourhood in the same degree as a prize ox, or county + paper-chronicled turnip, or unwieldy pig—for its enormous size. + Never were such labyrinths of uncarpeted passages, such clusters of + mouldy, ill-lighted rooms, such huge numbers of small dens for eating + or sleeping in beneath one roof, as are collected together within the + four walls of the Great White Horse at Ipswich.” + + [Picture: The “Great White Horse,” Ipswich] + +The Dickensian Rambler will well remember this hotel as the scene of Mr. +Pickwick’s “romantic adventure with a middle-aged lady in yellow +curl-papers,” related _in extenso_ in the same chapter as above. +Information as to the exact bedroom allotted to Mr. Pickwick on the +occasion of his visit to this place is, unfortunately, not afforded by +local tradition; but the apartment occupied by “Miss Witherfield,” whose +privacy Mr. P. inadvertently, but so unhappily, invaded, is indicated to +visitors on the second floor—No. 36, according to recent rearrangement of +enumeration, formerly known as No. 6. + +Poor Mr. Pickwick, on his escape from his awkward predicament, was unable +to find his own room, but was at last rescued from his dilemma by his +faithful servitor— + + “After groping his way a few paces down the passage, and, to his + infinite alarm, stumbling over several pairs of boots in so doing, + Mr. Pickwick crouched into a little recess in the wall, to wait for + morning as philosophically as he might. + + “He was not destined, however, to undergo this additional trial of + patience; for he had not been long ensconced in his present + concealment when, to his unspeakable horror, a man, bearing a light, + appeared at the end of the passage. His horror was suddenly + converted into joy, however, when he recognised the form of his + faithful attendant. It was indeed Mr. Samuel Weller, who after + sitting up thus late, in conversation with the Boots, who was sitting + up for the mail, was now about to retire to rest. + + “‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, suddenly appearing before him, ‘where’s my + bedroom?’ + + “Mr. Weller stared at his master with the most emphatic surprise; and + it was not until the question had been repeated three several times, + that he turned round, and led the way to the long-sought apartment. + + “‘Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, as he got into bed. ‘I have made one of + the most extraordinary mistakes to-night that were ever heard of.’ + + “‘Wery likely, sir,’ said Mr. Weller drily. + + “‘But of this I am determined, Sam,’ said Mr. Pickwick, ‘that if I + were to stop in this house for six months, I would never trust myself + about it alone again.’ + + “‘That’s the wery prudentest resolution as you could come to, sir,’ + replied Mr. Weller. ‘You rayther want somebody to look arter you, + sir, wen your judgment goes out a wisitin’.’” + +By way of _Upper Brook Street_, _Tacket Street_, and _Orwell Place_, we +come to _Fore Street_, _St. Clement’s_ (a thoroughfare in which still +remain several old houses of the sixteenth century), and soon reach the +whereabouts of St. Clement’s Church, towards which, on the morning +following the disasters of the night of their arrival, Mr. Samuel Weller +bent his steps, and + + “endeavoured to dissipate his melancholy by strolling among its + ancient precincts. He had loitered about for some time, when he + found himself in a retired spot—a kind of courtyard of venerable + appearance—which he discovered had no other outlet than the turning + by which he had entered. He was about retracing his steps, when he + was suddenly transfixed to the spot by a sudden appearance; and the + mode and manner of this appearance we now proceed to relate. + + “Mr. Samuel Weller had been staring up at the old brick houses now + and then, in his deep abstraction, bestowing a wink upon some + healthy-looking servant girl as she drew up a blind, or threw open a + bedroom window, when the green gate at the bottom of the yard opened, + and a man having emerged therefrom, closed the green gate very + carefully after him, and walked briskly towards the very spot where + Mr. Weller was standing.” + +This personage proved to be none other than Mr. Job Trotter, whose black +hair and mulberry suit were at once recognised by Sam, though their owner +did his best to evade detection:— + + “As the green gate was closed behind him, and there was no other + outlet but the one in front, however, he was not long in perceiving + that he must pass Mr. Samuel Weller to get away. He therefore + resumed his brisk pace, and advanced, staring straight before him. + The most extraordinary thing about the man was, that he was + contorting his face into the most fearful and astonishing grimaces + that ever were beheld. Nature’s handiwork never was disguised with + such extraordinary artificial carving, as the man had overlaid his + countenance with in one moment.” + +The Green Gate thus alluded to may yet be seen in a passage or court at +the bottom of _Angel Lane_ (leading to Back Street). It is the last +garden gate in the churchyard, a short distance from Church Street. The +same courtyard and gate will be remembered as the official entrance to +the Residence of George Nupkins, Esq., the Worshipful Mayor of Ipswich, +before whom the Pickwickian party were arraigned, in charge of the +redoubtable chief constable of the town. We read in chapter 25 as +follows:— + + “Mr. Weller’s anger quickly gave way to curiosity when the procession + turned down the identical courtyard in which he had met with the + runaway Job Trotter; and curiosity was exchanged for a feeling of the + most gleeful astonishment, when the all-important Mr. Grummer, + commanding the sedan-bearers to halt, advanced with dignified and + portentous steps to the very green gate from which Job Trotter had + emerged, and gave a mighty pull at the bell-handle which hung at the + side thereof. The ring was answered by a very smart and pretty-faced + servant-girl, who, after holding up her hands in astonishment at the + rebellious appearance of the prisoners, and the impassioned language + of Mr. Pickwick, summoned Mr. Muzzle. Mr. Muzzle opened one-half of + the carriage gate to admit the sedan, the captured ones, and the + specials, and immediately slammed it in the faces of the mob. . . . + + “At the foot of a flight of steps, leading to the house door, which + was guarded on either side by an American aloe in a green tub, the + sedan-chair stopped. Mr. Pickwick and his friends were conducted + into the hall, whence, having been previously announced by Muzzle, + and ordered in by Mr. Nupkins, they were ushered into the worshipful + presence of that public-spirited officer.” + +And we all recollect the resulting _exposé_ of the designs of Mr. Alfred +Jingle (_alias_ Captain Fitzmarshall), and the return by Mr. Weller of +“Job Trotter’s shuttlecock as heavily as it came.” + +It should also be not forgotten that it was at this house Mr. Weller met +with his lady-elect, Mary, the Pretty Housemaid (afterwards maid to Mrs. +Winkle), and that here the first passage of first love occurred between +them. For the pleasant narration of the episode, reference should be +made to the conclusion of the foregoing chapter:— + + “Now, there was nobody in the kitchen but the pretty housemaid; and + as Sam’s hat was mislaid, he had to look for it, and the pretty + housemaid lighted him. They had to look all over the place for the + hat. The pretty housemaid, in her anxiety to find it, went down on + her knees, and turned over all the things that were heaped together + in a little corner by the door. It was an awkward corner. You + couldn’t get at it without shutting the door first. + + “‘Here it is,’ said the pretty housemaid. ‘This is it, ain’t it?’ + + “‘Let me look,’ said Sam. + + “The pretty housemaid had stood the candle on the floor; as it gave a + very dim light, Sam was obliged to go down on his knees before he + could see whether it really was his own hat or not. It was a + remarkably small corner, and so—it was nobody’s fault but the man’s + who built the house—Sam and the pretty housemaid were necessarily + very close together. + + “‘Yes, this is it,’ said Sam. ‘Good-bye!’ + + “‘Good-bye!’ said the pretty housemaid. + + “‘Good-bye!’ said Sam; and as he said it, he dropped the hat that had + cost so much trouble in looking for. + + “‘How awkward you are,’ said the pretty housemaid. ‘You’ll lose it + again, if you don’t take care.’ + + “So, just to prevent his losing it again, she put it on for him. + + “Whether it was that the pretty housemaid’s face looked prettier + still, when it was raised towards Sam’s, or whether it was the + accidental consequence of their being so near to each other, is + matter of uncertainty to this day; but Sam kissed her. + + “‘You don’t mean to say that you did that on purpose,’ said the + pretty housemaid, blushing. + + “‘No, I didn’t then,’ said Sam; ‘but I will now.’ + + “So he kissed her again. + + “‘Sam!’ said Mr. Pickwick, calling over the banisters. + + “‘Coming, sir,’ replied Sam, running upstairs. + + “‘How long you have been!’ said Mr. Pickwick. + + “‘There was something behind the door, sir, which perwented our + getting it open, for ever so long, sir,’ replied Sam.” + + * * * * * + +Resuming the journey onwards by rail from Ipswich, the route is continued +_viâ Saxmundham Junction_, _Halesworth_, and _Beccles_, to the South Town +Station at Great Yarmouth, a well-known and favourite seaside resort, of +much interest to the Dickensian Rambler, as being intimately associated +with the personal history and experience of David Copperfield. Visitors +are recommended, for reasons hereafter to be seen, to select as their +place of sojourn either the “_Star Hotel_” on the Hall Quay, or the +“_Angel_,” near the market-place. Any thoroughfare leading eastward from +either of these will conduct to the _Marine Parade_, in full view of the +German Ocean. + +Towards the southern end of this sea frontage of the town, there may be +localised the spot where once stood the Home of Little Emily, “a black +barge or some other kind of superannuated boat, high and dry on the +ground, with an iron funnel sticking out of it for a chimney. There was +a delightful door cut in the side; it was roofed in, and there were +little windows in it.” + +The position of this old boat-house, as belonging to Dan’l Peggotty, was +at the upper extremity of the _South Denes_, a flat and grassy +expanse—beyond the _Wellington Pier_ and _South Battery_—in the +neighbourhood of the _Nelson Column_, facing the sea. + +In chapter 22 we find a reference to the South Town ferry, crossing the +Yare, “to a flat between the river and the sea, Mr. Peggotty’s house +being on that waste place, and not a hundred yards out of the track.” + +[There is a small wooden erection, more than a mile and a half distant, +on the sea-front near _Gorleston Pier_—between two well-built +houses—assuming the name of _Peggotty’s Hut_; but this is an evident +absurdity and misnomer.] + +Here, then, we may recall the many interests and incidents connected with +the experiences of the Peggotty family, and the sorrowful history of +Little Emily, notably the fateful occasion of STEERFORTH’S FIRST VISIT, +concerning which David records in chapter 21 of his autobiography, to the +following effect:— + + “Em’ly, indeed, said little all the evening; but she looked, and + listened, and her face got animated, and she was charming. + Steerforth told a story of a dismal shipwreck (which arose out of his + talk with Mr. Peggotty), as if he saw it all before him—and little + Em’ly’s eyes were fastened on him all the time, as if she saw it too. + He told us a merry adventure of his own, as a relief to that, with as + much gaiety as if the narrative were as fresh to him as it was to + us—and little Em’ly laughed until the boat rang with the musical + sounds, and we all laughed (Steerforth too), in irresistible sympathy + with what was so pleasant and lighthearted. He got Mr. Peggotty to + sing, or rather to roar, ‘When the stormy winds do blow, do blow, do + blow;’ and he sang a sailor’s song himself, so pathetically and + beautifully, that I could have almost fancied that the real wind + creeping sorrowfully round the house, and murmuring low through our + unbroken silence, was there to listen.” + +Thus commenced the sad story of the poor girl’s fascination and +subsequent flight with Steerforth, never more to return to the old home. +In this connection we may recall the graphic and powerful description of +the great Storm at Yarmouth, as contained in chapter 55, when Ham met his +fate in the gallant attempt to rescue the last survivor of a wrecked and +perishing crew, Steerforth himself:— + + “They drew him to my very feet—insensible—dead. He was carried to + the nearest house; and, no one preventing me now, I remained near + him, busy, while every means of restoration was tried; but he had + been beaten to death by the great wave, and his generous heart was + stilled for ever. + + “As I sat beside the bed, when hope was abandoned and all was done, a + fisherman, who had known me when Emily and I were children, and ever + since, whispered my name at the door. + + “Sir,’ said he, with tears starting to his weather-beaten face, + which, with his trembling lips, was ashy pale, ‘will you come over + yonder?’ + + “The old remembrance that had been recalled to me was in his look. I + asked him, terror-stricken, leaning on the arm he held out to support + me— + + “‘Has a body come ashore?’ + + “He said, ‘Yes.’ + + “‘Do I know it?’ I asked then. + + “He answered nothing. + + “But he led me to the shore. And on that part of it where she and I + had looked for shells, two children—on that part of it where some + lighter fragments of the old boat, blown down last night, had been + scattered by the wind—among the ruins of the home he had wronged—I + saw him lying with his head upon his arm, as I had often seen him lie + at school.” + +In the days of Copperfield, Two Coaches ran between Great Yarmouth and +London—“The Blue” and “The Royal Mail.” On the occasion of David’s first +journey to his school at Blackheath, he travelled by the former of these, +from The Angel Hotel, in the Market Place. We may here recall his dinner +of chops in the coffee-room, at which the “friendly waiter” assisted, +helping himself to the lion’s share. + +In chapter 5 of his History, David relates the attendant circumstances of +this, his second visit to Yarmouth; and how, starting as above from the +hotel, his dinner—ordered and paid for in advance—was mainly consumed by +proxy, ale included. We read that the waiter, “a twinkling-eyed, +pimple-faced man, with his hair standing upright all over his head,” +invited himself to the meal:— + + “He took a chop by the bone in one hand, and a potato in the other, + and ate away with a very good appetite, to my extreme satisfaction. + He afterwards took another chop, and another potato; and after that + another chop and another potato. When we had done, he brought me a + pudding, and having set it before me, seemed to ruminate, and to + become absent in his mind for some moments. + + “‘How’s the pie?’ he said, rousing himself. + + “‘It’s a pudding,’ I made answer. + + “‘Pudding!’ he exclaimed. ‘Why, bless me, so it is! What!’ looking + at it nearer. ‘You don’t mean to say it’s a batter-pudding?’ + + “‘Yes, it is indeed.’ + + “‘Why, a batter-pudding,’ he said, taking up a table-spoon, ‘is my + favourite pudding. Ain’t that lucky? Come on, little ’un, and let’s + see who’ll get most.’ + + “The waiter certainly got most. He entreated me more than once to + come in and win, but what with his table-spoon to my tea-spoon, his + despatch to my despatch, and his appetite to my appetite, I was left + far behind at the first mouthful, and had no chance with him. I + never saw any one enjoy a pudding so much, I think; and he laughed, + when it was all gone, as if his enjoyment of it lasted still.” + +On his return journey from London, we find him coming down by “The Mail,” +which stopped at The Star Hotel, on the Hall Quay, where the bedchamber, +“The Dolphin,” was assigned for his accommodation. He and his friend +Steerforth, in after visits, frequently adopted this “Royal Mail” +conveyance, making headquarters at the “Star Hotel.” + +The “volatile” _Miss Mowcher_ is first introduced to us at this +establishment. + +In chapter 22 we have the full account of David’s visit to Yarmouth in +company with Steerforth. They “stayed for more than a fortnight in that +part of the country,” during which time Littimer, being in attendance one +evening at this hotel during dinner, informed them that Miss Mowcher was +making one of her professional visits to the town, and desired an +opportunity of waiting on his master. David says:— + + “I remained, therefore, in a state of considerable expectation until + the cloth had been removed some half-an-hour, and we were sitting + over our decanter of wine before the fire, when the door opened, and + Littimer, with his habitual serenity quite undisturbed, announced: + + “‘Miss Mowcher!’ + + “I looked at the doorway and saw nothing. I was still looking at the + doorway, thinking that Miss Mowcher was a long while making her + appearance, when, to my infinite astonishment, there came waddling + round a sofa which stood between me and it, a pursy dwarf, of about + forty or forty-five, with a very large head and face, a pair of + roguish grey eyes, and such extremely little arms, that, to enable + herself to lay a finger archly against her snub nose as she ogled + Steerforth, she was obliged to meet the finger half-way, and lay her + nose against it. Her chin, which was what is called a double-chin, + was so fat that it entirely swallowed up the strings of her bonnet, + bow and all. Throat she had none; waist she had none; legs she had + none, worth mentioning; for though she was more than full-sized down + to where her waist would have been, if she had had any, and though + she terminated, as human beings generally do, in a pair of feet, she + was so short that she stood at a common-sized chair as at a table, + resting a bag she carried on the seat.” + +Sites Unlocalised. At this distance of time it is impossible to indicate +the locality of “_The Willing Mind_”—patronised by Mr. Peggotty—the +residence of _Mr. and Mrs. Barkis_, or the establishment of _Messrs Omer +and Joram_. The last is described as being “in a narrow street,” and +should be doubtless looked for in the older part of the town. + +Blundeston, the birthplace of Copperfield, may be visited from +_Somerleyton Station_, on the line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft. The +village, with its round-towered church, is situated about four miles +eastward from the railway. The house indicated in the novel as +_Blunderstone Rookery_ stands next the church. The excursion could +include, _en route_, a visit to Somerleyton Park, open to the public on +Wednesdays. + + + + +RAMBLE X +_London to Dorking and Portsmouth_ + + +Nicholas Nickleby and Smike on their travels—Excursion by Coach, “The +Perseverance”—Route to Dorking—Residence of Mr. and Mrs. Tony Weller—The +“Marquis of Granby”—The Rev. Mr. Stiggins and his “pertickler vanity”—The +downfall of Stiggins—The old Horse-trough—Dorking to Portsmouth—Parentage +of Dickens—Registration of Charles John Huffham Dickens—Birthplace of +Dickens—The Theatre-Royal—The Old Theatre—Unlocalised +Localities—Portsmouth to London—Westminster Abbey—Tomb of Dickens—His +Funeral as reported by the _Daily News_, June 1870—Poetical Tribute—The +future Outlook. + +In the early days of the present century, Nicholas Nickleby leaving +London with Smike, bound for Portsmouth, took the high road _viâ_ +Kingston and Godalming (with a view, _en passant_, of the Devil’s +Punch-bowl); walking steadily onward until arrival, on their second day’s +march, at a roadside inn—probably in the neighbourhood of _Horndean_. +Here they met with Mr. Vincent Crummles, of histrionic fame, and ended +their more immediate perplexities by an engagement with that gentleman. +There was no railway communication in those times, and coach fare was +expensive; but now-a-days we have adopted a cheaper and more speedy means +of transit, and may reach Portsmouth from London quickly, by two lines of +railroad. + +As, in the following excursion, it is proposed to make an intermediate +visit _en route_ to the residence (once on a time) of Mr. and Mrs. Tony +Weller, a journey by coach is recommended to Dorking, as affording a +suitable compliment to Mr. Weller’s memory and profession. A delightful +journey may thus be made by “The Perseverance” coach, which starts every +week-day during the season, from Northumberland Avenue, at 10.45 A.M., +and travels four-in-hand, _viâ_ Roehampton, Kingston, Surbiton, Epsom, +Leatherhead, Mickleham, and Boxhill, and arrives at Dorking, in time for +luncheon at the “White Horse Hotel,” at which the coach stops. + +The interest of this country town centres, for Pickwickian readers, in +the “_Marquis of Granby_,” once an inn. It exists no longer as such, +having been long since converted into a grocer’s establishment. It will +be found in the High Street, opposite the Post Office, at the side of +_Chequers’ Court_, which runs between it and the _London and County +Bank_. The old sign-board, the cosy bar, with its store of choice wines +and pine-apple rum (Mr. Stiggins’s “pertickler vanity”), and the +horse-trough in which the reverend gentleman was half drowned by the +irate Weller, senior, are now among the things that are not; but the old +house still remains _in situ_, altered to the uses of its present +occupancy. + +In chapter 27 of the Pickwick records we read of Sam’s first pilgrimage +to Dorking, on which occasion he paid his filial respects to his +mother-in-law, the rather stout lady of comfortable appearance, who +conducted the business of the house; and made his acquaintance with the +Rev. Mr. Stiggins of saintly memory. The description of the +establishment is given as follows:— + + “The ‘Marquis of Granby’ in Mrs. Weller’s time was quite a model of a + roadside public-house of the better class—just large enough to be + convenient, and small enough to be snug. On the opposite side of the + road was a large sign-board on a high post, representing the head and + shoulders of a gentleman with an apoplectic countenance, in a red + coat with deep-blue facings, and a touch of the same blue over his + three-cornered hat, for a sky. Over that again were a pair of flags; + beneath the last button of his coat were a couple of cannon; and the + whole formed an expressive and undoubted likeness of the Marquis of + Granby of glorious memory. + + “The bar window displayed a choice collection of geranium plants, and + a well-dusted row of spirit phials. The open shutters bore a variety + of golden inscriptions, eulogistic of good beds and neat wines; and + the choice group of countrymen and hostlers lounging about the + stable-door and horse-trough, afforded presumptive proof of the + excellent quality of the ale and spirits which were sold within. Sam + Weller paused, when he dismounted from the coach, to note all these + little indications of a thriving business, with the eye of an + experienced traveller; and having done so, stepped in at once, highly + satisfied with everything he had observed.” + +Mr. Stiggins, the clerical friend and spiritual adviser of the worthy +hostess, having fully ingratiated himself in her good graces, was in the +habit of making himself very much at home at “The Marquis”; greatly +appreciating the creature comforts there obtainable, and the good liquors +kept in stock. In point of fact, knowing when he was well off, he lived +well—if not wisely—on Mrs. Weller’s hospitable bounty, and made +headquarters at this Dorking inn. On the occasion of Sam’s first visit +before referred to—in chapter 27, as above—this estimable character is +thus introduced to the notice of Pickwickian students:— + + “He was a prim-faced, red-nosed man, with a long, thin countenance, + and a semi-rattlesnake sort of eye—rather sharp, but decidedly bad. + He wore very short trousers, and black-cotton stockings, which, like + the rest of his apparel, were particularly rusty. His looks were + starched, but his white neckerchief was not, and its long limp ends + straggled over his closely-buttoned waistcoat in a very uncouth and + unpicturesque fashion.” + + “The fire was blazing brightly under the influence of the bellows, + and the kettle was singing gaily under the influence of both. A + small tray of tea things was arranged on the table, a plate of hot + buttered toast was gently simmering before the fire, and the + red-nosed man himself was busily engaged in converting a large slice + of bread into the same agreeable edible, through the instrumentality + of a long brass toasting-fork. Beside him stood a glass of reeking + hot pine-apple rum and water, with a slice of lemon in it; and every + time the red-nosed man stopped to bring the round of toast to his + eye, with the view of ascertaining how it got on, he imbibed a drop + or two of the hot pine-apple rum and water, and smiled upon the + rather stout lady, as she blew the fire.” + +The downfall of Stiggins. The season of his prosperity came to a sad +ending after the demise of his patroness; and in chapter 52 we read of +his reverse of fortune, and the final _congé_ given to the reverend +gentleman by the irate Mr. Weller, senior, who dismissed him from his +household chaplaincy, in a manner more peremptory than pleasant:— + + “He walked softly into the bar, and presently returning with the + tumbler half full of pine-apple rum, advanced to the kettle which was + singing gaily on the hob, mixed his grog, stirred it, sipped it, sat + down, and taking a long and hearty pull at the rum and water, stopped + for breath. + + “The elder Mr. Weller, who still continued to make various strange + and uncouth attempts to appear asleep, offered not a single word + during these proceedings; but when Stiggins stopped for breath, he + darted upon him, and snatching the tumbler from his hand, threw the + remainder of the rum and water in his face, and the glass itself into + the grate. Then, seizing the reverend gentleman firmly by the + collar, he suddenly fell to kicking him most furiously, accompanying + every application of his top-boots to Mr. Stiggins’s person, with + sundry violent and incoherent anathemas upon his limbs, eyes, and + body. + + “‘Sammy,’ said Mr. Weller, ‘put my hat on tight for me.’ + + “Sam dutifully adjusted the hat with the long hatband more firmly on + his father’s head, and the old gentleman, resuming his kicking with + greater agility than before, tumbled with Mr. Stiggins through the + bar, and through the passage, out at the front door, and so into the + street; the kicking continuing the whole way, and increasing in + vehemence, rather than diminishing, every time the top-boot was + lifted. + + “It was a beautiful and exhilarating sight to see the red-nosed man + writhing in Mr. Weller’s grasp, and his whole frame quivering with + anguish as kick followed kick in rapid succession; it was a still + more exciting spectacle to behold Mr. Weller, after a powerful + struggle, immersing Mr. Stiggins’s head in a horse-trough full of + water, and holding it there until he was half-suffocated.” + +The old horse-trough, as depicted by “Phiz” in the original illustrated +title-page of the book, has long since given place to local alteration +and improvement; but “hereabouts it stood.” + +There are many pleasant and humorous associations connected with this old +place of country entertainment, as duly set forth in the Pickwick annals; +but it should be remembered that many years have passed since their +publication (1837), and that men and manners have greatly changed and +bettered. It is satisfactory to reflect that Mr. Stiggins and his +brethren have altogether become obsolete in English middle-class society, +and that the protest so embodied sixty years since is no longer +necessary. In these happier days, earnestness and ability have, in the +main, superseded laziness and cant. + + * * * * * + +DORKING TO PORTSMOUTH. The journey being resumed by railway, we travel +southward and westward through the pleasant fields and pasture lands of +Sussex, _viâ_ Horsham and Chichester, to the old town of Portsmouth, +where, in Landport, Portsea, Charles Dickens was born, on Friday, the 7th +of February 1812. He was the second son (in a family of eight, six +surviving infancy) of Mr. John Dickens, a clerk in the Navy Pay Office at +the Dockyard. The name of his mother, previous to her marriage, was +Elizabeth Barrow. The baptismal record at Portsea registers him as +CHARLES JOHN HUFFHAM DICKENS, but he very seldom used any other signature +than the one with which we are all familiar. On arrival at the +Portsmouth town station, we leave the railway, turning to the right, and +proceed onwards, in the main thoroughfare of Commercial Road. Thus we +shortly reach, in due course, The Birthplace of Dickens. The house (No. +387 Commercial Road, Landport) stands about half a mile northward (to the +right) from the railway station, with a neat forecourt. It bears a +tablet recording date of the event, as above. + + [Picture: Dickens’ Birthplace] + +South of the station (leftward), beyond the Town Hall, will be found, on +the right, The Theatre Royal; but it should be noted that this is _not_ +the establishment referred to in “Nicholas Nickleby.” + +That old theatre, at which Nicholas—adopting the professional _alias_ of +“Johnson”—made his histrionic _début_ under the managerial auspices of +Mr. Vincent Crummles, occupied, some eighty years since, the present site +of The Cambridge Barracks, in the _High Street_, farther onwards. + +We read in the same book that the _Crummles_ family resided at the house +of one Bulph, a pilot; that _Miss Snevellicci_ had lodgings in Lombard +Street, at the house of a tailor, where also _Mr. and Mrs. Lillyvick_ +found temporary accommodation; and that _Nicholas_ and _Smike_ lived in +two small rooms, up three pair of stairs, at a tobacconist’s shop, on the +Common Hard. But it is not possible to particularise these places; +indeed, it is altogether doubtful whether they had any special assignment +in the mind of the author himself. + + * * * * * + +Leaving Portsmouth, at convenience, by the _Brighton and South Coast +Railway_, we may take the return journey to London in about three hours, +arriving at the West End Terminus of the line, _Victoria Station_. From +this point we may revisit, _viâ Victoria Street_, about half a mile in +distance, Westminster Abbey, containing the TOMB OF DICKENS, which will +be found in the classic shade of the _Poets’ Corner_. At the time of his +death the _Times_ “took the lead in suggesting that the only fit +resting-place for the remains of a man so dear to England was the Abbey, +in which most illustrious Englishmen are laid;” and accordingly, on the +14th of June, the funeral took place, with a strict observance of +privacy. In Dean Stanley’s “WESTMINSTER ABBEY” the following statement +is given:— + + “Close under the bust of Thackeray lies Charles Dickens, not, it may + be, his equal in humour, but more than his equal in his hold on the + popular mind, as was shown in the intense and general enthusiasm + shown at his grave. The funeral, according to Dickens’s urgent and + express desire in his will, was strictly private. It took place at + an early hour in the summer morning, the grave having been dug in + secret the night before; and the vast solitary space of the Abbey was + occupied only by the small band of mourners, and the Abbey clergy, + who, without any music except the occasional peal of the organ, read + the funeral service. For days the spot was visited by thousands; + many were the flowers strewn upon it by unknown hands; many were the + tears shed by the poorer visitors. He rests beside Sheridan, + Garrick, and Henderson.” + +The plain stone covering the tomb is inscribed + + CHARLES DICKENS, + + Born February 7th, 1812. Died June 9th, 1870. + +Report of the Funeral, as published in the _Daily News_, June 15th, +1870:—“Charles Dickens lies, without one of his injunctions respecting +his funeral having been violated, surrounded by poets and men of genius. +Shakespeare’s marble effigy looked yesterday into his open grave; at his +feet are Dr. Johnson and David Garrick; his head is by Addison and +Handel; while Oliver Goldsmith, Rowe, Southey, Campbell, Thomson, +Sheridan, Macaulay, and Thackeray, or their memorials, encircle him; and +‘Poets’ Corner,’ the most familiar spot in the whole Abbey, has thus +received an illustrious addition to its peculiar glory. . . . Dickens’s +obsequies were as simple as he desired. The news that a special train +left Rochester at an early hour yesterday morning, and that it carried +his remains, was soon telegraphed to London; but every arrangement had +been completed beforehand, and there was no one in the Abbey; no one to +follow the three simple mourning coaches and the hearse; no one to +obtrude upon the mourners. The waiting-room at Charing Cross Station was +set apart for the latter for the quarter of an hour they remained there; +the Abbey doors were closed directly they reached it; and even the +mourning coaches were not permitted to wait. A couple of street cabs and +a single brougham took the funeral party away when the last solemn rites +were over, so that passers-by were unaware that any ceremony was being +conducted; and it was not until a good hour after that the south transept +began to fill. There were no cloaks, no weepers, no bands, no scarfs, no +feathers, none of the dismal frippery of the undertaker. We yesterday +bade the reader turn to that portion of ‘Great Expectations,’ in which +the funeral of Joe Gargery’s wife is described; he will there find full +details of the miserable things omitted. In the same part of the same +volume he will find reverent allusion to the time when ‘those noble +passages are read which remind humanity how it brought nothing into the +world and can take nothing out, and how it fleeth like a shadow, and +never continueth long in one stay;’ and will think of the solemn scene in +Westminster Abbey, with the Dean reading our solemn burial service, the +organ chiming in, subdued and low, and the vast place empty, save for the +little group of heart-stricken people by an open grave; a plain oak +coffin, with a brass plate bearing the inscription:— + + ‘CHARLES DICKENS, + + Born February 7th, 1812, + + Died June 9th, 1870’; + +a coffin strewed with wreaths and flowers by the female mourners; and +then dust to dust and ashes to ashes! Such was the funeral of the great +man who has gone. In coming to the Abbey, in the first coach were the +late Mr. Dickens’s children—Mr. Charles Dickens, jun., Mr. Harry Dickens, +Miss Dickens, Mrs. Charles Collins. In the second coach were Mrs. +Austin, his sister; Mrs. Charles Dickens, jun.; Miss Hogarth, his +sister-in-law; Mr. John Forster. In the third coach Mr. Frank Beard, his +medical attendant; Mr. Charles Collins, his son-in-law; Mr. Dewey, his +solicitor; Mr. Wilkie Collins; Mr. Edmund Dickens, his nephew. + +“By the orders of the Dean of Westminster, the officials were instructed +to keep the grave open until six o’clock last evening, and all who came +had the melancholy satisfaction of seeing not only the grave itself, but +the polished oak coffin which contained the remains of the lamented +deceased. A raised platform was placed around the grave, and two of the +vergers of the Abbey were in attendance to prevent crowding and preserve +order, an almost unnecessary precaution, for all who came, comprising +persons of various classes, conducted themselves in the most exemplary +manner. In the afternoon, when the fact of the interment became +generally known, and that the coffin was to be seen, the crowds arriving +at the Abbey became very great, and between twelve and six o’clock many +thousands of persons had been present. Large numbers paid a simple +tribute to the memory of the deceased by throwing the flowers they wore +in their coat or dress on to the coffin, until, towards the close of the +afternoon, it was completely covered with these simplest offerings of +public affection.” + + * * * * * + +The following Poetical Tribute, _in Memoriam_, was, at that sad time, +contributed to the public Press, and is worthy of remembrance:— + + “The Artist sleeps, yet friends are here he gave + The fair dream-children that his fancy drew; + A phantom crowd still gathers at his grave, + And in each character he lives anew. + + “Soft winds of summer breathe along the fane, + The honoured sepulchre where Dickens lies; + An Emigravit write we in our pain— + He is not dead—the artist never dies. + + “The statesman wins the mantle of a peer, + The warrior boasts all titles of renown; + We leave one laurel only on his bier, + And England’s love is greater than a crown.” + + “S. C.” + + * * * * * + +So long as the art of printing remains in Society, and the powers of +affection, appreciation, and sympathy survive in the hearts of +Anglo-Saxons—of the Old World or the New—the name and fame of CHARLES +DICKENS will be ever held fresh and green amongst us. And, through the +coming summer-dawn of time—amidst the destined agencies slowly evolving +the brighter omens of the future—his genius shall remain co-operant. +For, let us rest assured that “the thoughts of men are widened with the +process of the suns”; that the wheel of time is rolling, surely for an +end; and that all worthy labour in the cause of human progress shall +become Immortal, as it helps to make the world purer, gentler, and more +Christian; and hastens onwards the fulfilment of its nobler destiny. + + + + +APPENDIX + + +“The Pickwick Papers”; Mrs. Bardell’s House—The Spaniards’ Inn +[Wellington Academy]. “Oliver Twist”; Mr. Brownlow’s Residence—Fagin and +Bill Sykes. “Nicholas Nickleby”; The London Tavern—Mrs. Nickleby and +Kate in Thames Street—Mortimer Knag’s Library—General Agency +Office—Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers—Residence of Mrs. Wititterly. “Barnaby +Rudge”; The Golden Key—Cellar of Mr. Stagg—The Black Lion Tavern. +“Martin Chuzzlewit”; Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son—Montague Tigg, Esq., Pall +Mall—Tom Pinch and Ruth at Islington. “Dombey & Son”; Polly Toodles at +Staggs Gardens—Miss Tox and Major Bagstock, Princess Place—Mrs. +MacStinger and Captain Cuttle, No. 9 Brig Place. “David Copperfield”; +Mr. Creakle’s Establishment, Salem House—The Micawber family—Residence of +Mrs. Steerforth—Doctor and Mrs. Strong—Mr. and Mrs. D. Copperfield—Mr. +Traddles’s lodgings. “Bleak House”; Addresses of Mr. Guppy and his +Mother—Apartments of Mr. Jarndyce—Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed, Mount +Pleasant—George’s Shooting Gallery—Mr. and Mrs. Bagnet—Harold Skimpole +and family. “Little Dorrit”; The House of Mrs. Clennam—Residence of Mr. +Tite Barnacle—The Patriarchal Casby. “Tale of Two Cities”; Old Church of +St. Pancras in the Fields. “Great Expectations”; Private Residence of +Mr. Jaggers—Wemmick’s Castle, Walworth—Mr. Barley, _alias_ old +Gruff-and-Glum. “Our Mutual Friend”; Gaffer Hexam’s House—The Six Jolly +Fellowship Porters—Rogue Riderhood and his Daughter—Mr. Twemlow’s +Lodgings—The Veneerings and the Podsnaps—Boffin’s Bower.—Mr. R. Wilfer’s +Residence—Establishment of Mr. Venus. “Mystery of Edwin Drood”; The +Opium Smokers’ Den. + +The various localities referred to in the foregoing RAMBLES comprise all +the more interesting and better-known points which the Reader of Dickens +would most naturally desire to visit. In addition to these, however, +there are several places mentioned in the many works of “The inimitable +Boz” which may be enumerated, but cannot for the following reasons be +included in such specified routes:— + +(1) Neighbourhoods have, in course of years, altogether changed, making +it extremely difficult (in many cases impossible) to specify with +exactitude the former situation of old houses, which have long become +part and parcel of the forgotten past, “lost to sight” and now only “to +memory dear.” + +(2) The indications given in the various tales have, in some cases, been +purposely rendered vague and uncertain; it being the evident aim of the +author to avoid precision, and to afford no definite clue to the position +of many places named. + +(3) Some of the localities specified are situated at a considerable +distance from any main line of route, and can be visited only by separate +excursion specially undertaken for the purpose. + +In the following addendum these uncertain or distant addresses are given +under the headings of those books in which they respectively occur; in +order that Ramblers, if so disposed, may—in the words of Mr. +Peggotty—“fisherate” for themselves. + + + +THE PICKWICK PAPERS. + + +Mrs. Bardell’s House was located in _Goswell Street_, certainly in a +central position; for we read that, as Mr. Pickwick looked from his +chamber-window on the world beneath, + + “Goswell Street was at his feet, Goswell Street was on his right + hand, as far as the eye could reach, Goswell Street extended on his + left, and the opposite side of Goswell Street was over the way.” + +The “Spaniards’ Inn” at _Hampstead_ may be remembered as the scene of the +tea-party at which _Mrs. Bardell_ and a few select friends enjoyed +themselves, previous to her unexpected arrest and removal to the Fleet +Prison, at the suit of _Messrs. Dodson and Fogg_. There still exists the +“Spaniards” at Heath End, Hampstead Heath. + +[Visitors to Hampstead may be disposed to visit the site once occupied by +Mr. Jones’s School, called the “Wellington Academy,” at which Dickens +received some two years’ technical education; being a little over +fourteen years old when he left. The house is now in possession of the +INLAND REVENUE OFFICE, at the corner of Granby Street, 247 Hampstead +Road; part of the premises abutting on the London and North-Western +Railway, the formation of which demolished the old schoolroom and +playground.] + + [Picture: The “Spaniards,” Hampstead Heath] + + + +OLIVER TWIST. + + +Mr. Brownlow’s Residence, in “a quiet shady street near Pentonville,” +cannot he fairly localised. In the days of “Oliver Twist,” Mr. George +Cruikshank, the illustrator of the book, lived at _Myddelton Terrace_, +Pentonville; and possibly Dickens bethought himself of this vicinity in +consequence. + +Fagin’s House in _Whitechapel_ and the residence of _Bill Sykes_ cannot, +with any fairness, be accurately indicated. The latter is spoken of as +being in “one of a maze of mean and dirty streets, which abound in the +close and densely populated quarter of Bethnal Green.” + + + +NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. + + +The London Tavern, at which was held the Meeting in promotion of “The +United Metropolitan Improved Hot Muffin and Crumpet Baking and Punctual +Delivery Company,” once (many years since) occupied the site of the ROYAL +BANK OF SCOTLAND, 123 _Bishopsgate Street Within_, on the left hand +entering the street from Cornhill. + +Mrs. Nickleby and her daughter Kate lived, per favour of their amiable +relative, in _Thames Street_. This business thoroughfare has undergone +considerable reconstruction since the days of their tenancy, and the +particular dwelling intended cannot be identified. The place is +described as a “large, old dingy house, the doors and windows of which +were so bespattered with mud that it would have appeared to have been +uninhabited for years.” + +Mr. Mortimer Knag kept a small circulating library “in a by-street off +Tottenham Court Road,” where also lived his sister, _Miss Knag_, the +presiding genius of Madame Mantalini’s establishment; and we may remember +the evening when Mrs. Nickleby and Kate were graciously invited to supper +at this abode of literary genius. + +The General Agency Office, at which Nicholas Nickleby obtained the +address of _Mr. Gregsbury_, _M.P._, Manchester Buildings, Westminster +(also one of the lost localities of London), and where he first met +_Madeline Bray_, has no specified direction in the book. There have been +few such agencies existent in a central position in London. + +Messrs. Cheeryble Brothers had their place of business in a small City +square. “Passing along Threadneedle Street, and through some lanes and +passages on the right,” we read that Nicholas was conducted by _Mr. +Charles Cheeryble_ to the place in occupation of the firm— + + “The City square has no enclosure, save the lamp-post in the middle, + and no grass but the weeds which spring up around its base. It is a + quiet, little-frequented, retired spot, favourable to melancholy and + contemplation, and appointments of long waiting. . . . In + winter-time the snow will linger there long after it has melted from + the busy streets and highways. The summer’s sun holds it in some + respect, and while he darts his cheerful rays sparingly into the + square, keeps his fiery heat and glare for noisier and less imposing + precincts. It is so quiet, that you can almost hear the ticking of + your own watch, when you stop to cool in its refreshing atmosphere. + There is a distant hum—of coaches, not of insects—but no other sound + disturbs the stillness of the square.” + +The Residence of Mrs. Wititterly is referred to as having been pleasantly +situated in Cadogan Place, Sloane Street— + + “Cadogan Place is the one slight bond which joins two extremities; it + is the connecting link between the aristocratic pavements of Belgrave + Square and the barbarism of Chelsea. It is in Sloane Street, but not + of it. The people of Cadogan Place look down upon Sloane Street, and + think Brompton low. They affect fashion, too, and wonder where the + New Road is. Not that they claim to be on precisely the same footing + as the high folks of Belgrave Square and Grosvenor Place, but that + they stand, in reference to them, rather in the light of those + illegitimate children of the great, who are content to boast of their + connexions, although their connexions disavow them.” + + + +BARNABY RUDGE. + + +“The Golden Key”—the house of honest _Gabriel Varden_, the locksmith—was +in Clerkenwell, situated in a quiet street not far from the Charter +House— + + “A modest building, not very straight, not large, not tall, not + bold-faced, with great staring windows, but a shy, blinking house, + with a conical roof going up into a peak over its garret window of + four small panes of glass, like a cocked hat on the head of an + elderly gentleman with one eye. It was not built of brick, or lofty + stone, but of wood and plaster; it was not planned with a dull and + wearisome regard to regularity, for no one window matched the other, + or seemed to have the slightest reference to anything beside itself.” + +This was its description one hundred years ago, and its exact whereabouts +cannot now be ascertained. There are some old plaster-fronted houses, +evidently belonging to the last century, still to be found in _Albemarle +Street_, near _St. John’s Square_, but none of these fairly correspond +with the description of “The Golden Key.” + +The Cellar of Mr. Stagg was situated in _Barbican_. We read that its +position was “in one of the narrowest of the narrow streets which diverge +from that centre, in a blind court or yard, profoundly dark, unpaved, and +reeking with stagnant odours.” + +“The Black Lion” Tavern can only be identified as being situated in +Whitechapel. It was a favourite resort of _Mr. John Willett_, landlord +of the “MAYPOLE INN” at _Chigwell_, when he came to town; and we may +remember it as the scene of _Dolly Varden’s_ satisfactory interview with +her lover Joe, after his return from “the Salwanners.” + + + +MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. + + +Anthony Chuzzlewit and Son had their place of business near _Aldersgate +Street_. Their dreary residence was the bridal home of Mercy +Pecksniff—married by Jonas Chuzzlewit—and we may recollect her reception +at this establishment by the worthy _Sairey Gamp_. To this house Jonas +returned after the murder of Montague Tigg, and was here arrested by his +relative _Chevy Slyme_, in the presence of his uncle and Mark Tapley. +Its situation is described as being in + + “A very narrow street, somewhere behind the Post Office, where every + house was in the brightest summer morning very gloomy; and where + light porters watered the pavement, each before his own employer’s + premises, in fantastic patterns in the dog-days; and where spruce + gentlemen, with their hands in the pockets of symmetrical trousers, + were always to be seen in warm weather contemplating their undeniable + boots in dusty warehouse doorways, which appeared to be the hardest + work they did, except now and then carrying pens behind their ears.” + +Montague Tigg, Esq., the Chairman of the _Anglo-Bengalee Insurance +Company_, lived in luxurious chambers in _Pall Mall_; and we may remember +the morning when Jonas Chuzzlewit called at the residence of his chief, +and was disagreeably surprised to find his friend in full possession of +his secret history—with _Mr. Nadgett_ in attendance. + +Tom Pinch and his sister _Ruth_ lodged at “Merry Islington,” “in a +singular little old-fashioned house, up a blind street,” where they were +accommodated with two small bedrooms and a triangular parlour, the +householder being the inscrutable _Mr. Nadgett_. In “Martin Chuzzlewit” +are contained many pleasant episodes associated with these modest +apartments; where, as we all know, little Ruth made her first culinary +experiment, and was pleasantly surprised the next morning to find the +merry present of a cookery-book awaiting her in the parlour (sent by John +Westlock), with the beefsteak pudding leaf turned down and blotted out. + + + +DOMBEY AND SON. + + +Polly Toodles (otherwise Richards) lived with her husband and her +“apple-faced” family, at _Stagg’s Gardens_, _Camden Town_, at the time +when the London and North-Western Railway was in course of construction— + + “As yet the neighbourhood was shy to own the railroad. One or two + bold speculators had projected streets, and one had built a little, + but had stopped among the mud and ashes to consider further of it. A + bran new tavern, redolent of fresh mortar and size, and fronting + nothing at all, had taken for its sign the ‘Railway Arms;’ but that + might be rash enterprise—and then it hoped to sell drink to the + workmen. So the Excavators’ house of Call had sprung up from a + beer-shop, and the old-established Ham and Beef Shop had become the + Railway Eating House, with a roast leg of pork daily, through + interested motives of a similar immediate and popular description.” + +In a later chapter of “Dombey” we read of Stagg’s Gardens having vanished +from the earth— + + “Where the old rotten summer-houses once had stood, palaces now + reared their heads, and granite columns of gigantic girth opened a + vista to the railway world beyond. The miserable waste ground, where + the refuse matter had been heaped of yore, was swallowed up and gone, + and in its frowzy stead were tiers of warehouses, crammed with rich + goods and costly merchandise. The old bye-streets now swarmed with + passengers and vehicles of every kind: the new streets that had + stopped disheartened in the mud and waggon-ruts, formed towns within + themselves, originating wholesome comforts and conveniences belonging + to themselves, and never tried nor thought of until they sprung into + existence.” + +Miss Lucretia Tox had apartments at _Princess Place_, an address not +included in the London Directory; and _Major Bagstock_ also had chambers +in the immediate vicinity, a genteel but somewhat inconvenient +neighbourhood. Miss Tox’s residence is described as + + “A dark little house, that had been squeezed at some remote period of + English history into a fashionable neighbourhood at the west end of + the town, where it stood in the shade, like a poor relation of the + great street round the corner, coldly looked down upon by mighty + mansions. It was not exactly in a court, and it was not exactly in a + yard, but it was in the dullest of No-Thoroughfares, rendered anxious + and haggard by double knocks. . . . There is a smack of stabling in + the air of Princess Place, and Miss Tox’s bedroom (which was at the + back) commanded a vista of mews, where hostlers, at whatever sort of + work engaged, were continually accompanying themselves with + effervescent noises, and where the most domestic and confidential + garments of coachmen and their wives and families usually hung like + Macbeth’s banners on the outer walls.” + +Mrs. MacStinger presided at _No. 9 Brig Place_, finding accommodation for +_Captain Cuttle_ as her first floor lodger, previous to the time of his +hurried and secret removal to the quarters of _The Wooden Midshipman_. +We read that the house was situated + + “On the brink of a little canal near the India Docks, where the air + was perfumed with chips, and all other trades were swallowed up in + mast, oar, and block making, and boat building. Then the ground grew + marshy and unsettled. Then there was nothing to be smelt but rum and + sugar. Then Captain Cuttle’s lodgings, at once a first floor and a + top storey, in Brig Place, were close before you.” + + + +DAVID COPPERFIELD. + + +Mr. Creakle’s educational establishment, “_Salem House_,” was, we are +told, “down by Blackheath.” A large, dull house, standing away from the +main road among some dark trees, and surrounded by a high wall. The +character of Mr. Creakle seems to have been drawn from life; being, in +fact, a portrait of the proprietor of the “_Wellington Academy_,” +Hampstead Road, previously referred to. _Dr. Danson_, an old +schoolfellow of Dickens, writing to Mr. Forster, states that this “Mr. +Jones was a Welshman, a most ignorant fellow, and a mere tyrant, whose +chief employment was to scourge the boys.” Also, Mr. Forster, speaking +of the school, says, “it had supplied some of the lighter traits of Salem +House for ‘Copperfield.’” + +Mr. Micawber lived in Windsor Terrace, City Road, at the time he first +received young David Copperfield as a lodger, and previous to the crisis +in his pecuniary affairs which removed him to KING’S BENCH PRISON in the +Borough. + +We also read, later in the book, of the Micawbers as located in a little +street near _The Veterinary College_, _Camden Town_, what time _Mr. +Traddles_ was their lodger; and we may remember how the astute Mr. +Micawber took advantage of the circumstance, by obtaining the friendly +signature of his inmate as security, in the matter of two bills “not +provided for.” + +Mrs. Steerforth resided in “an old brick house at _Highgate_, on the +summit of the hill; a genteel, old-fashioned house, very quiet, and very +orderly,” from which position a comprehensive view was obtainable of “all +London lying in the distance like a great vapour, with here and there +some lights twinkling through it.” In connection with this house we may +recall the characters of _Rosa Dartle_ and the respectable serving-man +_Littimer_. + +Doctor and Mrs. Strong also lived in a cottage at Highgate after their +removal from Canterbury; and _Mr. and Mrs. David Copperfield_ resided in +the same neighbourhood, with _Betsy Trotwood_ established in a convenient +cottage near at hand. + +Mr. Traddles, in his bachelor days, had lodgings behind the parapet of a +house in _Castle Street_, _Holborn_. This thoroughfare has now changed +its name, and is known as FURNIVAL STREET. It may be found on the south +side of Holborn, and west of Fetter Lane, leading to Cursitor Street. + + + +BLEAK HOUSE. + + +Mr. Guppy mentioned his address as 87 _Penton Place_, _Pentonville_; but +the London Directory does not now include the number specified. The +residence of _Mrs. Guppy_, his mother, is stated as having been 302 _Old +Street Road_; previous to the time when a house was taken (by mother and +son) in _Walcot Square_, _Lambeth_, on the south side of the Thames, and +Mr. Guppy started on his independent professional career. + +Mr. Jarndyce once sojourned in London, “at a cheerful lodging near +_Oxford Street_, over an upholsterer’s shop,” at which also Ada Clare and +Esther Summerson were accommodated. + +Mr. and Mrs. Smallweed vegetated, with their grandchildren, “in a rather +ill-favoured and ill-savoured neighbourhood, though one of its rising +grounds bears the name of _Mount Pleasant_.” This beatific neighbourhood +will be found north of _Clerkenwell Road_ (approached by _Laystall +Street_), in the neighbourhood of the MIDDLESEX HOUSE OF CORRECTION. + +George’s Shooting Gallery is memorable as the place where _Gridley_—“the +man from Shropshire”—died; where also _Poor Jo_, clinging to the spars of +the Lord’s Prayer, drifted out upon the unknown sea. It is described as +“a great brick building, composed of bare walls, floors, roof-rafters, +and skylights; on the front of which was painted ‘George’s Shooting +Gallery.’” Its location is given as being up a court and a long +whitewashed passage, in + + “That curious region lying about the Haymarket and Leicester Square, + which is a centre of attraction to indifferent foreign hotels and + indifferent foreigners, racket courts, fighting men, swordsmen, + foot-guards, old china, gambling-houses, exhibitions, and a large + medley of shabbiness and shrinking out of sight.” + +Mr. Bagnet and his “old girl” kept house and home on the Surrey side of +the river; but no more precise indication of their whereabouts is given +than is contained in the following reference:— + + “By Blackfriars’ Bridge, and Blackfriars’ Road, Mr. George sedately + marches to a street of little shops lying somewhere in that ganglion + of roads from Kent and Surrey, and of streets from the bridges of + London, centreing in the far-famed Elephant who has lost his castle.” + +The Town House of Sir Leicester and Lady Dedlock was situated in a dull +aristocratic street in the western district of London, + + “Where the two long rows of houses stare at each other with that + severity, that half-a-dozen of its greatest mansions seem to have + been slowly stared into stone, rather than originally built in that + material. It is a street of such dismal grandeur, so determined not + to condescend to liveliness, that the doors and windows hold a gloomy + state of their own in black paint and dust, and the echoing mews + behind have a dry and massive appearance, as if they were reserved to + stable the stone chargers of noble statues.” + +Harold Skimpole and family had their residence in the _Polygon_, near to +the EUSTON TERMINUS (on the east side), in the centre of _Clarendon +Square_, _Somers Town_. The house is described as being sadly in want of +repair— + + “Two or three of the area railings were gone; the water-butt was + broken; the knocker was loose; the bell-handle had been pulled off a + long time, to judge from the rusty state of the wire; and dirty + footprints on the steps were the only signs of its being inhabited.” + + + +LITTLE DORRIT. + + +The House of Mrs. Clennam was situated not far from the river, in the +neighbourhood of _Upper Thames Street_. We read that Arthur Clennam, on +his arrival in London, + + “Crossed by Saint Paul’s and went down, at a long angle, almost to + the water’s edge, through some of the crooked and descending streets + which lie (and lay more crookedly and closely then) between the river + and Cheapside . . . passing silent warehouses and wharves, and here + and there a narrow alley leading to the river, where a wretched + little bill, ‘Found Drowned,’ was weeping on the wet wall; he came at + last to the house he sought. An old brick house, so dingy as to be + all but black, standing by itself within a gateway.” + +Mr. Tite Barnacle had his residence in _Mews Street_, _Grosvenor Square_— + + “It was a hideous little street of dead wall, stables, and dunghills, + with lofts over coach-houses inhabited by coachmen’s families, who + had a passion for drying clothes, and decorating their window-sills + with miniature turnpike-gates. The principal chimney-sweep of that + fashionable quarter lived at the blind end of Mews Street. . . . Yet + there were two or three small airless houses at the entrance end of + Mews Street, which went at enormous rents on account of their being + abject hangers-on to a fashionable situation; and whenever one of + these fearful little coops was to be let (which seldom happened, for + they were in great request), the house agent advertised it as a + gentlemanly residence in the most aristocratic part of the town, + inhabited solely by the élite of the beau monde.” + +The Patriarchal Casby, with his daughter—the irrepressible _Flora_—and +_Mr. F.’s Aunt_, + + “Lived in a street in the Gray’s Inn Road, which had set off from + that thoroughfare with the intention of running at one heat down into + the valley, and up again to the top of Pentonville Hill; but which + had run itself out of breath in twenty yards, and had stood still + ever since. There is no such place in that part now; but it remained + there for many years, looking with a baulked countenance at the + wilderness patched with unfruitful gardens, and pimpled with eruptive + summer-houses, that it had meant to run over in no time.” + + + +TALE OF TWO CITIES. + + +In this Tale we read of the funeral of _Cly_, the Old Bailey Informer; +the interment taking place in the burial-ground attached to the ancient +church of St. Pancras in the Fields. This edifice still exists in +PANCRAS ROAD (east side, opposite _Goldington Crescent_), which leads +from King’s Cross, northward, to Kentish Town. There is a church of the +same name to be found in the EUSTON ROAD—east of _Upper Woburn Place_, +but this is altogether another and more modern structure than the one +above referred to. A century since, at the time of the funeral +described, the name of this locality was literally correct; the church +being situated in the outlying fields of the suburban village of PANCRAS. +We may here recollect the fishing expedition undertaken by _Mr. Cruncher_ +and his two companions, on the night following the funeral; when young +_Jerry_ quietly followed his “honoured parent,” and assured himself of +the nature of his father’s secret avocation. + + + +GREAT EXPECTATIONS. + + +Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, had his private residence on the +south side of _Gerrard Street_, _Soho_, where he lived in solitary state, +with his eccentric housekeeper, the mother of Estella: “Rather a stately +house of its kind, but dolefully in want of painting, and with dirty +windows.” + +Wemmick’s Castle at _Walworth_ is altogether a place of the past; +Walworth being now one of the most populous and crowded of metropolitan +districts. We read that in Pip’s time + + “It appeared to be a collection of black lanes, ditches, and little + gardens, and to present the aspect of a rather dull retirement. + Wemmick’s house was a little wooden cottage in the midst of plots of + garden, and the top of it was cut out and painted like a battery + mounted with guns.” + +Mr. Barley, _alias Old Gruff-and-Glum_, lived at _Mill Pond Bank_, by +Chinks’s Basin and the Old Green Copper Rope-walk. Pip says the place +was anything but easy to find. Losing himself among shipbuilders’ and +shipbreakers’ yards, he continues the description of his search as +follows:— + + “After several times falling short of my destination, and as often + overshooting it, I came unexpectedly round a corner, upon Mill Pond + Bank. It was a fresh kind of place, all circumstances considered, + where the wind from the river had room to turn itself round; and + there were two or three trees in it, and there was the stump of a + ruined windmill, and there was the Old Green Copper Rope-walk—whose + long and narrow vista I could trace in the moonlight, along a series + of wooden frames set in the ground, that looked like superannuated + haymaking rakes, which had grown old and lost most of their teeth. + Selecting from the few queer houses upon Mill Pond Bank, a house with + a wooden front and three storeys of bow-window (not bay-window, which + is another thing), I looked at the plate upon the door, and read + there Mrs. Whimple . . . the name I wanted.” + + + +OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. + + +The House of Gaffer Hexam, the humble home of _Lizzie Hexam_ and her +brother, was situated somewhere in the district of _Limehouse_, near the +river. In a description given of the route by which Messrs. Lightwood +and Wrayburn approached this locality, we read— + + “Down by the Monument, and by the Tower, and by the Docks; down by + Ratcliffe, and by Rotherhithe. . . . In and out among vessels that + seemed to have got ashore, and houses that seemed to have got + afloat—among bowsprits staring into windows, and windows staring into + ships—the wheels rolled on, until they stopped at a dark corner, + river-washed and otherwise not washed at all, where the boy alighted + and opened the door.” + +“The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters” was located in this same vicinity, +overlooking the river. A waterside public-house, kept by _Miss Abbey +Patterson_, who enforced a certain standard of respectability among her +numerous clients, and conducted the house with a strict regard to +discipline and punctuality— + + “Externally, it was a narrow, lop-sided, wooden jumble of corpulent + windows heaped one upon another, as you might heap as many toppling + oranges, with a crazy wooden verandah impending over the water; + indeed, the whole house, inclusive of the complaining flagstaff on + the roof, impended over the water, but seemed to have got into the + condition of a faint-hearted diver who has paused so long on the + brink that he will never go in at all. . . . The back of the + establishment, though the chief entrance, was there so contracted + that it merely represented, in its connection with the front, the + handle of a flat iron set upright on its broadest end. This handle + stood at the bottom of a wilderness of court and alley; which + wilderness pressed so hard and close upon the ‘Six Jolly Fellowship + Porters,’ as to leave the hostelry not an inch of ground beyond its + door.” + +Rogue Riderhood and his daughter _Pleasant_ traded at _Limehouse Hole_, +in the same district as above, where they kept “a leaving shop” for +sailors; advancing small sums of money on the portable property of +seafaring customers. Mr. Riderhood did not stand well in the esteem of +the neighbourhood, which “was rather shy in reference to the honour of +cultivating” his acquaintance, his daughter being the more respectable +and respected member of the firm. + +Mr. Twemlow, “an innocent piece of dinner furniture,” often in request in +certain West-end circles of society, lodged in _Duke Street_, _St. +James’s_, “over a livery stable-yard.” + +The Location of the Veneering Family is described as “a bran-new house, +in a bran-new quarter,” designated by the appellation of “_Stucconia_;” +while their intimate friends The Podsnaps flourished “in a shady angle +adjoining _Portman Square_.” + +Boffin’s Bower, the home in which we are first introduced to the Golden +Dustman and his wife, was to be found “about a mile and a quarter up +Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge,” in the close vicinity of the Mounds of Dust +for which Mr. Harman was the contractor. + +The Location of Mr. R. Wilfer and family was in the northern district of +_Holloway_, beyond Battle Bridge, divided therefrom by “a tract of +suburban Sahara, where tiles and bricks were burnt, bones were boiled, +carpets were beat, rubbish was shot, dogs were fought, and dust was +heaped by contractors.” + +The Establishment of Mr. Venus was in _Clerkenwell_, among + + “The poorer shops of small retail traders in commodities to eat and + drink and keep folks warm, and of Italian frame-makers, and of + barbers, and of brokers, and of dealers in dogs and singing-birds. + From these, in a narrow and a dirty street devoted to such callings, + Mr. Wegg selects one dark shop-window with a tallow candle dimly + burning in it, surrounded by a muddle of objects vaguely resembling + pieces of leather and dry stick, but among which nothing is + resolvable into anything distinct, save the candle itself in its old + tin candlestick, and two preserved frogs fighting a small-sword + duel.” + + + +THE MYSTERY OF EDWIN DROOD. + + +In the first chapter of the tale we are introduced to “the meanest and +closest of small rooms,” where, “through the ragged window-curtain, the +light of early day steals in from a miserable court.” A man + + “Lies dressed, across a large unseemly bed, upon a bedstead that has + indeed given way under the weight upon it. Lying, also dressed, and + also across the bed, not longwise, are a Chinaman, a Lascar, and a + haggard woman. The two first are in a sleep or stupor; the last is + blowing at a kind of pipe, to kindle it.” + +This Opium Smokers’ Den had its location in an eastern district of +London, probably the _Shadwell_ neighbourhood of the LONDON DOCKS, but no +precise indication of its whereabouts is given in the tale. We read of +John Jasper starting from his hotel in _Falcon Square_: “Eastward, and +still eastward, through the stale streets, he takes his way, until he +reaches his destination—a miserable court, specially miserable among many +such.” + + + +THE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM + + +is readily attainable from _Charing Cross_ (or any other) station of the +_District Metropolitan Railway_. Entrance in _Cromwell Road_, five +minutes’ walk, on the north side, from South Kensington Station. + +The Forster Collection—on the first floor—in this museum contains several +of the earlier LETTERS written by Dickens to Forster, and the pen-and-ink +sketch by _Maclise_, representing the “Apotheosis of ‘Grip,’” the +celebrated Raven, who departed this life at No. 1 Devonshire Terrace, +March 12th, 1841. There are also here exhibited The Manuscripts of the +principal WORKS OF DICKENS, together with a _Proof Copy_ of “David +Copperfield,” showing the corrections of the Author. Most of these lie +opened, each at its first page; and it is interesting to observe the +careful interlineations and alterations with which the various original +copies were amended. In the case of “The Mystery of Edwin Drood,” the +sorrowful memento of its final page is exposed to view, as being the last +sheet written by the “vanished hand” of our much loved and faithful +friend, + + [Picture: Charles Dickens Signature] + + + + +INDEX + + +ACCADEMY, Turveydrop’s, 65 + +Adam Street, 5 + +Adelphi Arches, The, 5 + +— Hotel, The, 5 + +Albany, The, 62 + +Aldgate High Street, 70 + +— Pump, 71 + +Almshouses, Watts’s, 95 + +Apartments of Captain Cuttle, 156 + +— Major Bagstock, 156 + +— Miss Tox, 156 + +— Mrs. Gamp, 50 + +— Richard Carstone, 52 + +— The Kenwigses, 64 + +— Tom Pinch, 155 + +Apotheosis of “Grip,” 164 + +Artful Dodger at Court, The, 8 + +— Dodger at Work, The, 37 + +Astley’s Theatre, 78 + + * * * * * + +BAGNET, Mr., 159 + +Bailey, Junior, 50, 72 + +Bank, Child’s, 20 + +— of England, 67 + +— Tellson’s, 20 + +Bardell v. Pickwick, 29 + +Bardell’s House, Mrs., 151 + +Barley, Mr., 161 + +Barnacle, Mr. Tite, 160 + +Barnard’s Inn, 45 + +Barnett’s Hotel, 3 + +Bedfordbury, 4 + +Bell Tavern, The, 27 + +— Yard, 20 + +Belle Sauvage Yard, 26 + +Bethlehem Hospital, 77 + +Bevis Marks, 69 70 + +Billickin, Mrs., 51 + +Bishop’s Court, 17 + +Black Lion, The, 154 + +Bleeding Hart Yard, 40 + +Blinder, Mrs., 20 + +Bloomsbury Square, 52 + +“Blue Boar,” The, 68 + +Blunderstone Rookery, 140 + +Blundeston, 140 + +Boarding House, Todgers’s, 71 + +Bob Sawyer’s Lodging, 74 + +Boffin, House of Mr., 59 + +Boffin’s Bower, 163 + +Boot Tavern, 55 + +Borough, The, 72 + +Bouverie Street, 24 + +Bow Street Police Court, 8 + +Bradbury & Evans, 24 + +Bradley Headstone, 23 + +Bream’s Buildings, 19 + +Broad Court, 8 + +Brook Street, Grosvenor Sq, 60 + +Brownlow’s Residence, Mr., 3 + +Buckhurst Hill, 128 + +Buckingham Street, 5 + +Buffet, Spiers and Pond’s, 46 + +Bull and Anchor Tavern, 49 + +Bull Inn Yard, The, 76 + +Burial Ground, Nemo’s, 9 + +Butler’s Wharf, 33 + + + +CANTERBURY + + +AUGUSTINIAN Monastery, 106 + +Burgate Street, 111 + +Butcher, The obnoxious, 108 + +Canterbury, City of, 103 + +Castle Street, 104 + +Christchurch Gate, 106 + +Doctor Strong, 106 + +Faversham, 103 + +Fleur de Lys Hotel, 109 + +George and Dragon Inn, 109 + +Home of Agnes, 111 + +— Mr. Larkins, 107 + +King’s School, 106 + +Lady’s Green, The, 106 + +Larkins, The eldest Miss, 107 + +London Coach Office, 109 + +London, Chatham & Dover Station 103, 112 + +Margaret Street, 104, 105 + +Markleham, Mrs., 110 + +Mercery Lane, 105, 108 + +Micawbers, The, 104 + +Monastery Street, 106 + +North Lane (No. 65), 110 + +Palace Street, 110 + +Queen’s Head Inn, 104 + +Residence of Dr. Strong, 106 + +— Mr. Wickfield, 111 + +— Uriah Heep, 110 + +St. Alphege, Church of, 110 + +— Dunstan Street, 111 + +— Margaret’s Church, 105 + +Sittingbourne, 103 + +Teynsham, 103 + +Watling Street, 104 + + * * * * * + +CARLISLE House, 66 + +Carnaby Street, 64 + +Carstone’s Apartments, Richard, 53 + +Casby, Mr., 160 + +Castle, The, 28 + +Chadband, Rev. Mr., 19 + +Chambers of Copperfield, 5 + +— Mr. Fledgby, 62 + +— Mr. Grewgious, 48 + +— Mr. Tartar, 48 + +— John Westlock, 46 + +Chandos Street (No. 3), 4 + +Chapman & Hall, Messrs., 63 + +Charing Cross Terminus, 3, 31, 102 + +Charles Darnay’s Trial, 36 + +CHATHAM, 86 + +— Clover Lane Academy, 87 + +— Fort Pitt, 87 + +— Military Hospital, 87 + +— Providence Chapel, 87 + +— Railway Street, 86 + +— Recreation Ground, 88 + +— Rome Lane, 86 + +— The Brook, 87 + +Cheeryble Bros., Messrs., 153 + +Chester, Edward, 22 + +— Sir John, 22, 23 + +Chevy Slyme, 155 + +Chichester Rents, 17 + +Chicksey, Veneering, & Co., 71 + +Chigwell, 129 + +— Church, 129 + +— King’s Head, 129 + +Children’s Hospital, The, 53 + +Child’s Bank, 20 + +Chivery’s Shop, 76 + +Christchurch, 77 + +Church, Dulwich, 83 + +— Emmanuel, 82 + +— St. Alphege, 101 + +— St. Dunstan’s, 23 + +— St. George’s, 73 + +— St. John the Evangelist’s, 79 + +— St. Mary-le-Bow, 28 + +— St. Pancras in the Fields, 161 + +— Street, 79 + +Chuzzlewit & Son, 154 + +Clare Court, 10 + +Claridge’s Hotel, 60 + +Clennam’s House, Mrs., 160 + +Clerkenwell Green, 37 + +Clifford’s Inn Passage, 23 + +Cloisterham, 88 + +Coavinses’ Castle, 17 + +Cobham, 84 + +Cook’s Court, 18 + +Cooling Village, 91 + +Copperfield’s Chambers, 5 + +Cornhill, 68 + +Court of Chancery, 16 + +Covent Garden Market, 7, 8 + +— Theatre, 8 + +Craven Street (No. 39), 3 + +Creakle’s Establishment, Mr., 157 + +Crisparkle, Rev. S., 92 + +Cross Keys Inn, The, 28 + +Crown Inn, The, 64 + +Crozier Hotel, The, 98 + +Curiosity Shop, The Old, 11 + +Cursitor Street, 17 + + * * * * * + +_Daily News_ Office, 24 + +Dean’s Court, 27 + +Dedlock Mansion, The, 159 + +Devonshire House, 60 + +— Street, 53 + +— Terrace, 57 + +Dickens, Amateur Acting of, 61 + +— Death of, 100 + +— Dining-House of, 10 + +Dickens at Lamert’s Factory, 3 + +— Letters of, 164 + +— Manuscripts of, 164 + +— Memorial Tablet, 92 + +— Readings of, 9, 62 + +— Residences of, 46, 48, 55, 87, 99 + +— at School, 87 + +— Tomb of, 146 + +Dickens’s Establishment, Mrs., 56 + +Doctor Slammer, 98 + +Doctors’ Commons, 27 + +Dodson & Fogg, Messrs , 68 + +Dolls’ Dressmaker, The, 79 + +Dombey & Son’s Offices, 30 + +Dombey’s Residence, Mr., 58, 59 + +Dorking, 141 + +— “Marquis of Granby”, 142 + +— “White Horse,” 142 + +— Rev. Mr. Stiggins, 143 + +— ,, ,, Downfall of, 144 + +Doubledick, Richard, 98 + +Doughty Street (No. 48), 55 + + * * * * * + + + +DOVER + + +COPPERFIELD’S Resting Place, 113 + +Dover Priory, 112-114 + +Dover, Town of, 112 + +King’s Head Hotel, 114 + +Market Place Corner, 113 + +Miss Manetty and Mr. Lorry, 114 + +Priory Hill, 114 + +Residence of Miss Trotwood, 114 + +Stanley Mount, 114 + +Staplehurst Disaster, 115 + + * * * * * + +Doyce & Clennam’s Factory, 40 + +Dulwich Church, 83 + +Durdles, A night with, 93 + +Durdles’s Lodgings, 93 + + * * * * * + +EDWIN Drood and Rosa, 98 + +Ely Place, Holborn, 41 + +Emigration of Peggotty, &c., 100 + +Emmanuel Church, 82 + +Escort in London, 120 + +Establishment of Mr. Waterbrook, 41 + +Eugene Wrayburn, 23, 123 + +Exchequer Coffee House, 79 + +Execution of the Mannings, 76 + + * * * * * + +FAGIN’S House, 152 + +Falcon Hotel, 34 + +Falstaff Inn, 99 + +Fang, Mr. J. P., 38, 39 + +Feast of the Three Hobgoblins, 71 + +Feenix Town House, 60 + +Field Lane, 39 + +Finches of the Grove, The, 7 + +First Avenue Hotel, 49 + +— Readings, Dickens’s, 9 + +Fish Street Hill, 71 + +Fleet Market, 25 + +— Prison, 25 + +Flite, Miss, 16 + +Folly Ditch, 32 + +Forest House, Chigwell, 131 + +Forge, Joe Gargery’s, 90 + +Forster Collection, The, 164 + +Forster’s House, Mr., 14 + +Foundling Hospital, The, 54 + +Fountain Court, Temple, 21 + +Fox-under-the-Hill, The, 6 + +Freeman’s Court, 68 + +Funeral of Dickens, 147 + +Furnival’s Inn, 46 + + * * * * * + +GADSHILL Place, 99 + +Gaffer Hexam’s House, 162 + +Gamp, Mrs., 50 + +Garden Court, Temple, 21 + +Gargery’s Forge, Joe, 91 + +Gate of the Temple, 21 + +General Agency Office, 153 + +George and Vulture Inn, The, 68 + +George the IVth, The Old, 12 + +George Yard, The, 68 + +George’s Shooting-Gallery, 158 + +Giles, Rev. William, 87 + +Golden Cross Hotel, The, 1 + +— Key, The, 154 + +— Square, 63 + +Goldsmith’s Buildings, 23 + +Gordon, Lord George, 60 + +— Riots, The, 36, 44 + +Goswell Street, 151 + +Gower Street, 56, 57 + +Gravesend, 100 + +Gray’s Inn, 49 + +Great Ormond Street, 53 + +— Yarmouth, 135 + +— Angel Hotel, 138 + +— Coaches, 138 + +— Home of Little Emily, 136 + +— Star Hotel, 138 + +— Storm at, 137 + +Green Dragon Tavern, The, 68 + +Greenwich Park, 101 + +Gridley’s Lodgings, 20 + +Grip, The Raven, 28 + +— Apotheosis of, 164 + +Grocers’ Hall Court, 29 + +Guild of Literature and Art, 61 + +Guildhall, The, 28 + +Guppy, Mr., 62, 158 + +Guppy’s Address, Mr., 158 + +— Mrs., 158 + + * * * * * + +HAMPSTEAD, 151, 152 + +Hanging Sword Alley, 24 + +Harley Street, 58 + +Hatchett’s Hotel, 61 + +Hatton Yard, 38 + +Hawdon, Capt., 17 + + * * * * * + + + +HENLEY + + +A CRY for Help, 122 + +Anchor Inn, 121 + +Aston, 124 + +Attack by Headstone, 123 + +Betty Higden, Death of, 122 + +— Burial of, 122 + +Death of Riderhood and Headstone, 125 + +Eastern Tow Path, 124 + +Eugene Wrayburn, 123 + +Fawley Court, 124 + +Greenlands, 124 + +Harmon’s Reflections, 127 + +Henley Bridge, 123 + +Hurley Lock, 125 + +Kensal Green Cemetery, 117 + +Lizzie Hexam, 119, 122, 123 + +Lock House, Hurley, 125 + +Marriage of Eugene and Lizzie, 119 + +Marsh Lock, 123 + +— Mill, 121 + +Medmenham Abbey, 124 + +Micawber’s Quotation, 126 + +Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, 124, 125 + +Railway Station, Henley, 121 + +Red Lion Inn, 118 + +— Lawn, 119 + +Rescue of Eugene, 119 + +Rogue Riderhood, 125 + +Stoke Pogis Churchyard, 126 + +Tow Path, The, 121 + +Waterloo Station, 120 + + * * * * * + +Her Majesty’s Theatre, 80 + +Hexam’s House, 162 + +Holborn Restaurant, The, 14 + +— Viaduct, 37 + +Hope Brothers, Messrs., 26 + +Horndean, 141 + +Horse and Groom, The, 13 + +— Guards, The, 80 + +Horsemonger Lane Gaol, 76 + +Horseshoe Restaurant, The, 66 + +Hospital, Bethlehem, 77 + +— Children’s, The, 53 + +— Foundling, The, 54 + +Hotel, Adelphi, 5 + +— Barnett’s Private, 3 + +— Cecil, 5 + +— Claridge’s, 60 + +— Falcon, 34 + +— First Avenue, 49 + +— Golden Cross, 1 + +— Hatchett’s, 61 + +— Hummums, 7 + +— Tavistock, 7 + +— Woods’, 47 + +House of Sampson Brass, 70 + +— Sol Gills, 69 + +_Household Words Office_, 7 + +Hugh, 23 + +Hungerford Market, 3 + +— Stairs, 3 + + * * * * * + +IPSWICH, 131 + +— Residence of Mr. Nupkins, 134 + +— St. Clement’s Church, 133 + +— White Horse Hotel, 131 + + * * * * * + +JACOB’S Island, 32 + +Jaggers, Offices of Mr., 35 + +— Residence of Mr., 161 + +Jarndyce, Mr., 158 + +Jarndyce v. Jarndyce, 16 + +Jellyby’s Residence, Mrs., 41 + +Jenny Wren, 79, 119 + +Jerry Cruncher’s Apartments, 24 + +— Cruncher’s Employment, 161 + +Jingle, Mr., 2, 97, 134 + +Job Trotter, 133 + +John Jasper, Apartments of, 94 + +Johnny’s Will, 54 + +Julius Handford, Mr., 79 + + * * * * * + +KENGE & Carboy’s Offices, 16 + +Kenwigs Family, The, 64 + +King’s Bench Prison, 74, 75 + +“King’s Head,” Chigwell, 129 + +King’s Head Court, 71 + +Kingsgate Street, 50 + +Knag, Mr. and Miss, 153 + +Krook’s Warehouse, 17 + + * * * * * + +LAING, Mr. J. P., 39 + +Lambeth Palace, 78 + +— Road, 78 + +Lamert’s Blacking Factory, 3 + +— Warehouse, 3 + +Langdale’s Distillery, 39 + +Lant Street, 74 + +Leadenhall Street, 69 + +Leather Bottle Inn, The, 84 + +Letters of Dickens, 164 + +Lewsome’s Illness, 49 + +Lightwood’s Offices, 23 + +Lincoln’s Inn Chambers, 18 + +— Fields, 14, 15 + +— Hall, 16 + +— Old Square, 16 + +Lirriper’s Lodgings, 11 + +Little Britain, 35 + +London Bridge, 72 + +— Coffee Tavern, The, 26 + +— Stereoscopic Company, 28 + +— Street, 32 + +— Tavern, The, 152 + +Lucretia Tox, Miss, 156 + + * * * * * + +MACSTINGER, Mrs., 156 + +Magpie and Stump, The, 12 + +Manette, Doctor, 66 + +— Street, 66 + +Mansfield, Lord, 52 + +— Street, 58 + +Mansion House, The, 29 + +Mantalini, Madame, 59 + +Manuscripts of Dickens, 164 + +Mark Tapley, 6, 29 + +Market, Covent Garden, 7, 8 + +— Farringdon, 25 + +— Fleet, 25 + +— Hungerford, 3 + +Marshall Street, 65 + +Marshalsea Place, 73 + +— Prison, 73 + +Martha’s Lodging, 65 + +— Suicidal attempt, 78 + +Martin Chuzzlewit, 6, 21 + +“Maypole Inn,” The, 129 + +Memorial Hall, The, 25 + +Merdle, Mr., 58 + +Micawber, Mr., 157 + +Mill Bank Street, 78 + +— Street, 32 + +Mincing Lane, 71 + +Minor Canon Corner, 92 + +Minories, 70, 71 + +Monk’s Vineyard, The, 91 + +Mowcher, Miss, 139 + + * * * * * + +NADGETT, Mr., 155 + +Nancy and Rose Maylie, 72 + +Neckett’s Lodging, 20 + +Nemo’s Burial, 9 + +— Lodging, 17 + +Newgate Prison, 35 + +— Burning of, 36 + +Newman Noggs, 64 + +— Street, 65 + +Newman’s Court, 68 + +Nickleby’s Office, Ralph, 63 + +Noah Claypole, 72 + +Norie & Wilson, Messrs., 69 + +Nuns’ House, The, 89 + + * * * * * + +OBELISK, St. George’s, 77 + +Office of Chicksey & Co., 71 + +— Daily News, The, 24 + +— Dodson & Fogg, 68 + +— Dombey & Son, 30 + +— Jaggers, Mr., 35 + +— Kenge & Carboy, 16 + +— Lightwood & Wrayburn, 23 + +— Perker, Mr., 49 + +— Pubsey & Co., 69 + +— Ralph Nickleby, 63 + +— Spenlow & Jorkins, 27 + +Old Bailey, The, 36 + +— Curiosity Shop, The, 11, 12 + +— Gruff-and-Glum, 161 + +— Palace Yard, 79 + +Old Ship Tavern, The, 17 + +— Square, Lincoln’s Inn, 16 + +Olde Cheshire Cheese, Ye, 24 + +Oliver Twist at Court, 38 + +— enlightened, 37 + +— entering London, 38 + +Opium Smokers’ Den, The, 164 + +Osborn’s Hotel, 5 + +“Our House,” 59 + + * * * * * + +PAPER Buildings, Temple, 22 + +Park, St. James’s, 80 + +Parliament Street, 79 + +Peabody’s Buildings, 4 + +Pecksniff’s Downfall, 22 + +Peggotty, Mr., 100 + +— House of, 136 + +Perker’s Offices, 49 + +Piccadilly, 61, 62 + +Pickwick’s Discovery, 85 + +— Imprisonment, 25 + +— Retirement, 83 + +— Travels, 2, 61 + +— Trial, 28 + +Pip’s Chambers, 21 + +P. J. T., 48 + +Plornish’s Home, 40 + +Podsnaps, The, 8 + +Poetical Tribute, 149 + +Police Court, Bow Street, 8 + +— Hatton Garden, 38 + +Portsmouth, 145 + +— Birthplace of Dickens, 145 + +— Cambridge Barracks, 145 + +— Street, 11 + +— Theatre, 145 + +Portugal Street, 13 + +Post Office, Charing Cross, 1 + +— General, 34 + +Poultry, The, 29 + +Princess Place, 156 + +Prison, The Fleet, 25 + +— King’s Bench, 74, 75 + +— Marshalsea, 73 + +Procter, Miss Adelaide, 97 + +Pubsey & Co., 69 + +Pump Court, Temple, 22 + + * * * * * + +QUARTERMAINE’S Ship Tavern, 101 + +Queen Square, 53 + +Quilp’s House, 33 + +— Wharf, 33 + + * * * * * + +RAILWAY Street, Chatham, 86 + +Red Lion, The, 70, 80 + +Residence of Brownlow, Mr., 3 + +— Dickens, 46, 48, 55, 87, 99 + +— Dombey, Mr., 58, 59 + +— Gordon, Lord G., 60 + +— Jellyby, Mrs., 41 + +— La Creevy, Miss, 6 + +— Lammles, The, 62 + +— Mansfield, Lord, 52 + +— Merdle, Mr., 58 + +— Micawber, Mr., 157 + +— Nickleby, Mrs., 152 + +— Pickwick, Mr., 83 + +— Snagsby, Mr., 18 + +— Tulkinghorn, Mr., 14 + +— Veneerings, 163 + +Restaurant, Epitaux’s, 81 + +Richard Doubledick, 98 + +ROCHESTER, 88 + +— Bridge, 98 + +— Bull Hotel, 97 + +— Cathedral, 92 + +— College Gate, 94 + +— Crown Hotel, 98 + +— Crypts, The, 93 + +— Eastgate House, 89 + +— Esplanade, 98 + +— Minor Canon Row, 92 + +— Restoration Mouse, 90 + +— St. Nicholas Church, 94 + +— Sapsea’s House, 90 + +— Theatre, 88 + +— The Vines, 99 + +— Watts’s Charity, 95 + +Rogue Riderhood, 163 + +Rokesmith Wedding, The, 101 + +Roman Bath, 10 + +Rosa Budd, 47, 48 + +Rowland & Son, 40 + +Rudge, Mrs., 72 + +Rules of King’s Bench, 74, 75 + + * * * * * + +SACKVILLE Street, 62 + +Saffron Hill, Great, 38, 39 + +— Little, 38 + +St. Alphege Church, 101 + +— Clement Danes, 11 + +— Dunstan’s Church, 23 + +— George’s Church, 73 + +— ,, Obelisk, 77 + +— James’s Hall, 62 + +— ,, Park, 80 + +St. John the Evangelist’s Church, 79 + +— Martin’s Hall, 9 + +— Martin’s-le-Grand, 34 + +— Mary Axe, 69 + +— Mary-le-Bow Church, 28 + +— Pancras in the Fields, 161 + +— Paul’s Churchyard, 27 + +Sackville Street, 62 + +Salem House, 157 + +Sampson Brass, 70 + +Sam’s Valentine, 68 + +Sapsea, Mr., 90 + +Saracen’s Head, The, 36 + +Satis House, 90 + +Sawyer’s Lodging, Bob, 74 + +Seven Poor Travellers, The, 96 + +“Six Jolly Fellowship Porters The,” 162 + +Skimpole Family, The, 159 + +Slammer, Doctor, 98 + +Smallweed Family, The, 158 + +Smithfield, 35 + +Snagsby’s Residence, 18 + +Snevellicci, Mr., 8 + +Snow Hill, 37 + +Sole Street Station, 84 + +Sol’s Arms, The, 17, 18 + +Somerleyton Park, 140 + +Southampton Street, 51 + +South Kensington Museum, 164 + +South Square, 49 + +Southwark Bridge, 34 + +Spaniards’ Inn, The, 151 + +Spa Road Station, 31 + +Spenlow & Jorkins, 27 + +Spiers & Pond’s Buffet, Messrs, 42 + +Stagg’s Cellar, 154 + +— Gardens, 155 + +Staple Inn, 48 + +Steerforth, Mrs., 157 + +Strong’s House, Dr., 158 + +Stryver’s Chambers, 22 + +Surrey Theatre, 77 + +Swan and Sugar Loaf, The, 32 + +Sweedlepipes, House of, 50 + +Swiss Châlet, 99 + +Sydney Carton, 22, 24 + +Symond’s Inn, 19 + + * * * * * + +TATTYCORAM, 55 + +Tavern, Black Lion, The, 154 + +Tavern, Boot, The, 55 + +— Bull and Anchor, The, 49 + +— Coffee, London, The, 27 + +— Green Dragon, The, 68 + +— London, The, 26 + +— Old George IVth, The, 12 + +— Old Ship, The, 17 + +— Quartermaine’s Ship, 101 + +— “Six Jolly Fellowship Porters”, 162 + +Tavistock Hotel, The, 7 + +— House, 56 + +— Square, 56 + +Tellson’s Bank, 20 + +Temple Bar, 20 + +— Church, 23 + +— Fountain, 21 + +— Garden Court, 21 + +— Gate, 21 + +— Paper Buildings, 22 + +— Pump Court, 22 + +Thames Street, 160 + +Thavies Inn, 41 + +Theatre, Astley’s, 78 + +— Covent Garden, 8 + +— Her Majesty’s, 80 + +— Rochester, 88 + +— Surrey, The, 77 + +Three Cripples, The, 40 + +Tigg, Montague, 155 + +Toby Veck, 23 + +Todger’s Boarding House, 71 + +Tom All-Alone’s, 4 + +Tom Pinch’s Apartments, 155 + +Toodles, Polly, 155 + +Took’s Court, 18 + +Toots’s Excursions, 71 + +Tox, Miss Lucretia, 156 + +Traddles, Home of, 49 + +Traddles’s Lodgings, 158 + +Travellers, Seven Poor, 95 + +Trial of Charles Darnay, 36 + +Trinity House, 34 + +Tulkinghorn’s Residence, Mr., 14 + +Tupman’s Retreat, 84 + +Turveydrop’s Academy, 65 + +Twemlow, Mr., 163 + +Twinkleton, Miss, 51 + + * * * * * + +VARDEN Family, The, 129 + +Veneering Family, The, 163 + +Venus, Mr., 163 + + * * * * * + +WALTER Wilding, 54 + +Warren, The, 131 + +Waterbrook’s Establishment, 41 + +Watts, Richard, 95 + +Wedding of Mr. Snodgrass, 83, 84 + +Welbeck Street, 60 + +Weller, Sam, 84, 135 + +— Tony, 26 + +Weller’s Rendezvous, 13 + +Wellington Academy, 152 + +— Street, Strand, 7 + +Wemmick’s Castle, 161 + +— Wedding, 83 + +Westminster Abbey, 79, 146 + +White Hart Inn, The, 72 + +White Horse Cellars, The, 61 + +Wigmore Street, 59 + +Wilfer Family, The, 57 + + — Residence of, 163 + +Willet, John, 130 + +Wimpole Street, 59 + +Wititterly, Mrs., 153 + +Wooden Midshipman, The, 69–71 + +Wood Street, 28 + +Woods’ Hotel, 47 + + * * * * * + +YARMOUTH, 135 + +Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, 24 + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN DICKENS' LAND*** + + +******* This file should be named 38652-0.txt or 38652-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/6/5/38652 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + |