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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage
+       Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor
+
+Author: John Taylor
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
+
+1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes missing or
+   missplaced in the original. These have been made consistent with
+   modern convention.
+
+2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been added.
+
+3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end
+   the book.
+
+4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at the
+   end of the book.
+
+
+
+THE
+PENNYLES
+PILGRIMAGE,
+
+OR
+
+The Money-lesse perambulation,
+
+of JOHN TAYLOR, _Alias_
+the Kings Majesties
+_Water-Poet_.
+
+HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT
+from _London_ to _Edenborough_ in _Scotland_, not carrying
+any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing,
+or Asking Meate, drinke or
+Lodging.
+
+_With his Description of his Entertainment_
+in all places of his Journey, and a true Report
+of the unmatchable Hunting in the _Brea_
+of _Marre_ and _Badenoch_ in
+_Scotland_.
+
+With other Observations, some serious and
+worthy of Memory, and some merry
+and not hurtfull to be Remembred.
+
+_Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)
+all is true._
+
+LONDON
+
+Printed by _Edw: Allde_, at the charges of the
+Author. 1618
+
+
+
+
+TO THE TRULY
+NOBLE AND RIGHT
+HONORABLE LORD GEORGE MARQUIS
+of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of
+Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's
+Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master
+of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen
+of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight
+of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and
+one of his Majesty's most Honorable
+Privy Council of both the
+Kingdoms of England
+and Scotland.
+
+
+Right Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I was
+entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, Worshipful
+Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in England and Scotland.
+So now your Lordship's inclination hath incited, or invited my poor muse
+to shelter herself under the shadow of your honorable patronage, not
+that there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in all
+humility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that
+is able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.
+
+          Your Honors,
+
+              In all observance,
+
+                    JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS,
+BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER,
+MY GENERAL SALUTATION.
+
+
+_Reader, these Travels of mine into_ Scotland, _were not undertaken,
+neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised by
+myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends both in this Kingdom of_
+England, _and that of_ Scotland, _and because I would be an eye-witness
+of divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas many
+shallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by
+others, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage
+of Master_ Benjamin Jonson, _I vow by the faith of a Christian, that
+their imaginations are all wide, for he is a gentleman, to whom I am so
+much obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received from
+him, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudent
+or ungrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own
+instigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so much
+goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if you
+expect_
+
+That I should write of cities' situations,
+Or that of countries I should make relations:
+Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills,
+Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills,
+Of shires, and piers, and memorable things,
+Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings,
+I touch not those, they not belong to me;
+But if such things as these you long to see,
+Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read
+The learned _Camden_, or laborious _Speed_.
+
+     _And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest
+
+          Yours in all thankfulness:_
+
+                JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TAYLOR'S
+PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.
+
+
+   List Lordlings, list (if you have lust to list)
+   I write not here a tale of had I wist:
+   But you shall hear of travels, and relations,
+   Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.
+   And he that not believes what here is writ,
+   Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.
+   The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)
+   One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen,
+   And to relate all things in order duly,
+   'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July,
+   Saint _Revels_ day, the almanack will tell ye
+   The sign in _Virgo_ was, or near the belly:
+   The moon full three days old, the wind full south;
+   At these times I began this trick of youth.
+   I speak not of the tide, for understand,
+   My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land,
+   Though in the morning I began to go
+   Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,
+   That make what haste I could, the sun was set,
+   E're from the gates of _London_ I could get.
+   At last I took my latest leave thus late,
+   At the Bell Inn, that's _extra Aldersgate_.
+   There stood a horse that my provant[1] should carry,
+   From that place to the end of my fegary,[2]
+   My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag,
+   That with good understanding bore my bag:
+   And of good carriage he himself did show,
+   These things are excellent in a beast you know.
+   There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees)
+   I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese
+   With roses, barberries, of each conserves,
+   And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves:
+   And I entreat you take these words for no-lies,
+   I had good _Aqua vitę, Rosa_ so-lies:
+   With sweet _Ambrosia_, (the gods' own drink)
+   Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think,
+   Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,
+   That could a daring saucy stomach foil.
+   This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,
+   Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine,
+   I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,
+   And went that night as far as _Islington_.
+   There did I find (I dare affirm it bold)
+   A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old,
+   But surely it was painted, like a whore,
+   And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door,
+   Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,
+   May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.
+   There did my loving friendly host begin
+   To entertain me freely to his inn:
+   And there my friends, and good associates,
+   Each one to mirth himself accommodates.
+   _At Well-head_ both for welcome, and for cheer,
+   Having a good _New ton_, of good stale beer:
+   There did we _Trundle_[3] down health, after health,
+   (Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)
+   Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk,
+   And only _No-body_[3] was three parts drunk.
+   The morrow next, Wednesday Saint _Swithin's_ day,
+   From ancient _Islington_ I took my way.
+   At _Holywell_ I was enforced carouse,
+   Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House.
+   But there's a help to make amends for all,
+   That though the ale be great, the pots be small.
+   At _Highgate_ Hill to a strange house I went,
+   And saw the people were to eating bent,
+   In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought,
+   But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.
+   I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant,
+   But I did practise thus before my want;
+   Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,
+   Before the day he'll often exercise.
+   So I began to put in use, at first
+   These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst.
+   Close to the Gate,[4] there dwelt a worthy man,
+   That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can,
+   Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil,
+   Do call him _Robin Pluto_, or the devil.
+   But finding him a devil, freely hearted,
+   With friendly farewells I took leave and parted,
+   And as alongst I did my journey take,
+   I drank at _Broom's well_, for pure fashion's sake,
+   Two miles I travelled then without a bait,
+   The Saracen's Head at _Whetstone_ entering straight,
+   I found an host, that might lead an host of men,
+   Exceeding fat, yet named _Lean_, and _Fen_.[5]
+   And though we make small reckoning of him here,
+   He's known to be a very great man there.
+   There I took leave of all my company,
+   Bade all farewell, yet spake to _No-body_.
+   Good reader think not strange, what I compile,
+   For _No-body_ was with me all this while.
+   And _No-body_ did drink, and, wink, and scink,
+   And on occasion freely spent his chink.
+   If anyone desire to know the man,
+   Walk, stumble, _Trundle_, but in _Barbican_.
+   There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd,
+   And in that street kind _No-body_[6] is hanged.
+   But leaving him unto his matchless fame,
+   I to St. _Albans_ in the evening came,
+   Where Master _Taylor_, at the Saracen's Head,
+   Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed.
+   The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all,
+   Saved me a labour, that I need not call,
+   The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round,
+   And in a word great kindness there I found,
+   For which both to my cousin, and his men,
+   I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.
+   Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,
+   And then I went plain _Dunstable_ highway.
+   My very heart with drought methought did shrink,
+   I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.
+   Which made me call to mind, that instant time,
+   That drunkenness was a most sinful crime.
+   When _Puddle-hill_ I footed down, and past
+   A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last.
+   There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread,
+   We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed.
+   And whilst two hours we there did take our ease,
+   My nag made shift to mump green pulse[7] and peas.
+   Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,
+   And drank the water of a brook hard by.
+   Away toward _Hockley_ in the Hole, we make,
+   When straight a horseman did me overtake,
+   Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin,
+   I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin,
+   I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink,
+   And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.
+   Away rode he, but like an honest man,
+   I found at _Hockley_ standing at the Swan,
+   A formal tapster, with a jug and glass,
+   Who did arrest me: I most willing was
+   To try the action, and straight put in bail,
+   My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale,
+   To quit this kindness, I most willing am,
+   The man that paid for all, his name is _Dam_,
+   At the Green Dragon, against _Grays-Inn_ gate,
+   He lives in good repute, and honest state.
+   I forward went in this my roving race,
+   To _Stony Stratford_ I toward night did pace,
+   My mind was fixed through the town to pass,
+   To find some lodging in the hay or grass,
+   But at the _Queen's Arms_, from the window there,
+   A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,
+   Call _Taylor, Taylor_, and be hanged come hither,
+   I looked for small entreaty and went thither,
+   There were some friends, which I was glad to see,
+   Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.
+   On Friday morn, as I would take my way,
+   My friendly host entreated me to stay,
+   Because it rained, he told me I should have
+   Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave.
+   I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor,
+   But if I live, I will requite him better.
+   (From _Stony Stratford_) the way hard with stones,
+   Did founder me, and vex me to the bones.
+   In blustering weather, both for wind and rain,
+   Through _Towcester_ I trotted with much pain,
+   Two miles from thence, we sat us down and dined,
+   Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.
+   We having fed, away incontinent,
+   With weary pace toward _Daventry_ we went.
+   Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,
+   And told me he would leave a jug of beer,
+   At _Daventry_ at the Horse-shoe for my use.
+   I thought it no good manners to refuse,
+   But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,
+   Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,
+   Came limping after to that stony town,
+   Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down.
+   There had my friend performed the words he said,
+   And at the door a jug of liquor staid,
+   The folks were all informed, before I came,
+   How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,
+   Which caused mine hostess from her door come out,
+   (Having a great wart rampant on her snout.)
+   The tapsters, hostlers, one another call,
+   The chamberlains with admiration all,
+   Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,
+   As if some monster sent from the _Mogul_,
+   Some elephant from _Africa_, I had been,
+   Or some strange beast from the _Amazonian_ Queen.
+   As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl,
+   Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl,
+   So did these brainless asses, all amazed,
+   With admirable _Nonsense_ talked and gazed,
+   They knew my state (although not told by me)
+   That I could scarcely go, they all could see,
+   They drank of my beer, that to me was given,
+   But gave me not a drop to make all even,
+   And that which in my mind was most amiss,
+   My hostess she stood by and saw all this,
+   Had she but said, come near the house my friend,
+   For this day here shall be your journey's end.
+   Then had she done the thing which [she] did not,
+   And I in kinder words had paid the shot.
+   I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)
+   If they to _Daventry_ do chance to come,
+   That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance,
+   Or accident into that house they glance,
+   Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,
+   My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,[8]
+   Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will,
+   You for your money shall be welcome still.
+   From thence that night, although my bones were sore,
+   I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:
+   The way to _Dunchurch_, foul with dirt and mire,
+   Able, I think, both man and horse to tire.
+   On _Dunsmoor_ Heath, a hedge doth there enclose
+   Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.
+   Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly learn,
+   With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern,
+   Of which we made a field-bed in the field,
+   Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield.
+   There with my mother earth, I thought it fit
+   To lodge, and yet no incest did commit:
+   My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs,
+   And being weary, I went up no stairs:
+   The sky my canopy, bright _Phoebe_ shined
+   Sweet bawling _Zephyrus_ breathed gentle wind,
+   In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night,
+   Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light;
+   There barricadoed with a bank lay we
+   Below the lofty branches of a tree,
+   There my bed-fellows and companions were,
+   My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer:
+   But yet for all this most confused rout,
+   We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out.
+   Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster,
+   Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;
+   And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,)
+   Allowed us a large covering and a blanket;
+   _Auroras_ face 'gan light our lodging dark,
+   We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark,
+   Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,
+   I travelled to the city _Coventry_.
+   There Master Doctor _Holland_[9] caused me stay
+   The day of _Saturn_ and the Sabbath day.
+   Most friendly welcome, he me did afford,
+   I was so entertained at bed and board,
+   Which as I dare not brag how much it was,
+   I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,
+   But with thanks many I remember it,
+   (Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ,
+   He used me like his son, more than a friend,
+   And he on Monday his commends did send
+   To _Newhall_, where a gentleman did dwell,
+   Who by his name is hight _Sacheverell_.
+   The Tuesday _July's_ one and twentieth day,
+   I to the city _Lichfield_ took my way,
+   At _Sutton Coldfield_ with some friends I met,
+   And much ado I had from thence to get,
+   There I was almost put unto my trumps,
+   My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;
+   But noble _Vulcan_, a mad smuggy smith,
+   All reparations me did furnish with.
+   The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod,
+   And he referred the payment unto God.
+   I found a friend, when I to _Lichfield_ came,
+   A joiner, and _John Piddock_ is his name.
+   He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,
+   And he did furnish me with good provant:
+   He offered me some money, I refused it,
+   And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it,
+   That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass,
+   Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,
+   With here and there a pelting scattered village,
+   Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:
+   For all the day, nor yet the night that followed.
+   One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.
+   At night I came to a stony town called _Stone_.
+   Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:
+   I therefore through the streets held on my pace,
+   Some two miles farther to some resting place:
+   At last I spied a meadow newly mowed,
+   The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed:
+   We made a breach, and entered horse and man,
+   There our pavilion, we to pitch began,
+   Which we erected with green broom and hay,
+   To expel the cold, and keep the rain away;
+   The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,
+   And presently there fell a mighty shower,
+   Which without intermission down did pour,
+   From ten a night, until the morning's four.
+   We all that time close in our couch did lie,
+   Which being well compacted kept us dry.
+   The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,
+   And so a temperate diet we did keep.
+   The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs,
+   We being as ready as we had been dogs:
+   We need not stand upon long ready making,
+   But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:
+   And for I found my host and hostess kind,
+   I like a true man left my sheets behind.
+   That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,
+   Unto a town that is _Newcastle_ named.
+   (Not that _Newcastle_ standing upon _Tyne_)
+   But this town situation doth confine
+   Near _Cheshire_, in the famous county _Stafford_,
+   And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;
+     But now my versing muse craves some repose,
+     And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose.
+
+In this town of _Newcastle_, I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what
+the next town was called, that was in my way toward _Lancaster_, he
+holding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute,
+piped me this answer, and said, _Talk-on-the-Hill_; I asked him again
+what he said _Talk-on-the-Hill_: I demanded the third time, and the
+third time he answered me as he did before, _Talk-on-the-Hill_. I began
+to grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my way
+as well there as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town
+was four miles off me, and that the name of it was, _Talk-on-the-Hill_:
+I had not travelled above two miles farther: but my last night's supper
+(which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by my
+stomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun:
+I have fared better at three Suns many times before now, in _Aldersgate
+Street_, _Cripplegate_, and new _Fish Street_; but here is the odds, at
+those Suns they will come upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting
+as a tailor's bill of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls
+not half so heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law
+in their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of debt,
+and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence there is no
+appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the material Sunshine, we
+eat a substantial dinner, and like miserable guests we did budget up the
+reversions.
+
+   And now with sleep my muse hath eased her brain
+   I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.
+   That which we could not have, we freely spared,
+   And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.
+   We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)
+   And kindly every step entreats me stay,
+   The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,
+   One foot went forward, the other back would slip,
+   This weary day, when I had almost past,
+   I came unto Sir _Urian Leigh's_ at last,
+   At _Adlington_, near _Macclesfield_ he doth dwell,
+   Beloved, respected, and reputed well.
+   Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,
+   From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,
+   At his own table I did daily eat,
+   Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,
+   He would have given me gold or silver either,
+   But I, with many thanks, received neither,
+   And thus much without flattery I dare swear,
+   He is a knight beloved far and near,
+   First he's beloved of his God above,
+   (Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love)
+   Next with a wife and children he is blest,
+   Each having God's fear planted in their breast.
+   With fair demaines, revenue of good lands,
+   He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands,
+   And as he's happy in these outward things,
+   So from his inward mind continual springs
+   Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety,
+   Good hospitable works of charity,
+   Just in his actions, constant in his word,
+   And one that won his honour with the sword,
+   He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight,
+   But he knows when, and how to speak or fight,
+   I cannot flatter him, say what I can,
+   He's every way a complete gentleman.
+   I write not this, for what he did to me,
+   But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see,
+   Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame
+   But to make others imitate the same,
+   For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow,
+   I would his worthy worth more amply show,
+   But I already fear have been too bold,
+   And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.
+   Thanks to his sons and servants every one,
+   Both males and females all, excepting none.
+   To bear a letter he did me require,
+   Near _Manchester_, unto a good Esquire:
+   His kinsman _Edmund Prestwitch_, he ordained,
+   That I was at _Manchester_ entertained
+   Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,
+   For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass;
+   This gentleman not only gave harbour,
+   But in the morning sent me to his barber,
+   Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,
+   Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.
+   But in conclusion, when his work was ended,
+   His glass informed, my face was much amended.
+   And for the kindness he to me did show,
+   God grant his customers beards faster grow,
+   That though the time of year be dear or cheap,
+   From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.
+   Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail,
+   He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did fail,
+   Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt,
+   Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:
+   Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?
+   No, Master _Prestwitch_, this and much more did,
+   His friendship did command and freely gave
+   All before writ, and more than I durst crave.
+   But leaving him a little, I must tell,
+   How men of _Manchester_ did use me well,
+   Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack,
+   Roast, boiled, baked, too--too--much, white, claret, sack,
+   Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,
+   Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot,
+   That what they could do, all they thought too little,
+   Striving in love the traveller to whittle.
+   We went into the house of one _John Pinners_,
+   (A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners)
+   And there eight several sorts of ale we had,
+   All able to make one stark drunk or mad.
+   But I with courage bravely flinched not,
+   And gave the town leave to discharge the shot.
+   We had at one time set upon the table,
+   Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no Ęsop-fable:
+   Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt,
+   And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt,
+   With ale of rosemary, and betony,
+   And two ales more, or else I needs must lie.
+   But to conclude this drinking aley-tale,
+   We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale.
+   Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,
+   Did strive whose love should be expressed most,
+   And farther to declare their boundless loves,
+   They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves,
+   In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,
+   That in their praise I cannot write too much;
+   They merit more than I have here compiled,
+   I lodged at the Eagle and the Child,
+   Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman)
+   Did entertain me with respect, not common.
+   She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed,
+   And on my way she caused me be refreshed,
+   She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon,
+   Which by me much refused, at last was taken,
+   In troth she proved a mother unto me,
+   For which, I evermore will thankful be.
+   But when to mind these kindnesses I call,
+   Kind Master _Prestwitch_ author is of all,
+   And yet Sir _Urian Leigh's_ good commendation,
+   Was the main ground of this my recreation.
+   From both of them, there what I had, I had,
+   Or else my entertainment had been bad.
+   O all you worthy men of _Manchester_,
+   (True bred bloods of the County _Lancaster_)
+   When I forget what you to me have done,
+   Then let me headlong to confusion run.
+   To noble Master _Prestwitch_ I must give
+   Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,
+   His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,
+   He far surpassed all that went before,
+   A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,
+   To bring me quite through _Lancaster's_ large county,
+   Which I well know is fifty miles at large,
+   And he defrayed all the cost and charge.
+   This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,
+   That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.
+   So Mistress _Saracoal_, hostess kind,
+   And _Manchester_ with thanks I left behind.
+   The Wednesday being _July's_ twenty nine,
+   My journey I to _Preston_ did confine,
+   All the day long it rained but one shower,
+   Which from the morning to the evening did pour,
+   And I, before to _Preston_ I could get,
+   Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat,
+   But there I was supplied with fire and food,
+   And anything I wanted sweet and good.
+   There, at the Hind, kind Master _Hind_ mine host,
+   Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast,
+   There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,
+   And hardly got from thence on Saturday.
+   Unto my lodging often did repair,
+   Kind Master _Thomas Banister_, the Mayor,
+   Who is of worship, and of good respect,
+   And in his charge discreet and circumspect.
+   For I protest to God I never saw,
+   A town more wisely governed by the law.
+   They told me when my Sovereign there was last,
+   That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste.
+   It grieved them all, but when at last they found,
+   His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned.
+   He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds,
+   He did accept their kind intents, for deeds:
+   One man there was, that with his zeal too hot,
+   And furious haste, himself much overshot.
+   But what man is so foolish, that desires
+   To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars?
+   Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,
+   Because I saw how much they grieved were;
+   That any way, the least part of offence,
+   Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.
+   Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in _Preston_,
+   And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,
+   Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,
+   And on my way two miles, with me he went,
+   There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,
+   The under Sheriff of _Lancashire_ we met,
+   A gentleman that loved, and knew me well,
+   And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.
+   There, as if I had been a noted thief,
+   The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.
+   The Sheriff's authority did much prevail,
+   He sent me unto one that kept the jail.
+   Thus I perambuling, poor _John Taylor_,
+   Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor.
+   The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer,
+   Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear,
+   For the under-Sheriff kind Master _Covill_ named,
+   (A man for house-keeping renowed and famed)
+   Did cause the town of _Lancashire_ afford
+   Me welcome, as if I had been a lord.
+   And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,
+   His mate can scarce be found in all that county.
+   The extremes of miser, or of prodigal,
+   He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,
+   His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed,
+   That _Argus_ eyes could see no odds betwixt,
+   And sure the difference, (if there difference be)
+   Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.
+   Poor folks report, that for relieving them,
+   He and his wife, are each of them a gem;
+   At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid,
+   And what was to be paid, I know he paid:
+   If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,
+   Ungrateful me the world might justly note:
+   Had I declared all I did hear, and see,
+   For a great flatterer then I deemed should be,
+   Him and his wife, and modest daughter _Bess_,
+   With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless.
+   Two days a man of his, at his command,
+   Did guide me to the midst of _Westmoreland_,
+   And my conductor with a liberal fist,
+   To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed.
+   The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)
+   We in the dark, to a town called _Sedbergh_ came,
+   There Master _Borrowed_, my kind honest host,
+   Upon me did bestowed unasked cost.
+   The next day I held on my journey still,
+   Six miles unto a place called _Carling_ hill,
+   Where Master _Edmund Branthwaite_[10] doth reside,
+   Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.
+   Our entertainment, and our fare were such,
+   It might have satisfied our betters much;
+   Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,
+   And five miles on my way himself me brought,
+   At _Orton_ he, I, and my man did dine,
+   With Master _Corney_ a good true Divine,
+   And surely Master _Branthwaite_'s well beloved,
+   His firm integrity is much approved:
+   His good effects, do make him still affected
+   Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.
+   He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down,
+   Who lodged, and boarded me at _Penrith_ town,
+   And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,
+   That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;
+   There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)
+   With me a journey would to _Carlisle_ make:
+   But from that city, about two miles wide,
+   Good Sir _John Dalston_ lodged me and my guide.
+   Of all the gentlemen in _England's_ bounds
+   His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,
+   And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,
+   He's free from being covetous, or proud;
+   His son, Sir _George_, most affable, and kind,
+   His father's image, both in form and mind,
+   On Saturday to _Carlisle_ both did ride,
+   Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,
+   Where of good entertainment I found store,
+   From one that was the mayor the year before,
+   His name is Master _Adam Robinson_,
+   I the last English friendship with him won.
+   He (_gratis_) found a guide to bring me through,
+
+   [Sidenote: _My thanks
+   to Sir John
+   and Sir Geo.
+   Dalston, with
+   Sir Henry
+   Curwin._]
+
+   From _Carlisle_ to the city _Edinburgh_:
+   This was a help, that was a help alone,
+   Of all my helps inferior unto none.
+   Eight miles from _Carlisle_ runs a little river,
+   Which _England's_ bounds, from _Scotland's_ grounds doth sever.
+   Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get
+
+[Sidenote: _Over Esk I
+waded._]
+
+   On foot, I went, yet scarce my shoes did wet.
+   I being come to this long-looked-for land,
+   Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned;
+   And I saw nothing that could change my will,
+   But that I thought myself in _England_ still.
+   The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,
+   There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;
+   There I saw sky above, and earth below,
+   And as in _England_, there the sun did show;
+   The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale,
+
+[Sidenote: _The afore-named
+knights
+had given money
+to my
+guide, of which
+he left some
+part at every
+ale-house._]
+
+   And many a cottage yielded good Scottish ale;
+   This county (_Avondale_) in former times,
+   Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:
+   For _Cumberland_ and it, both kingdoms borders,
+   Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,
+   Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,
+   Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving;
+   And many times he that had wealth to-night,
+   Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:
+   Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted,
+   That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,
+   Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled,
+   The churches with the lowly ground were levelled;
+   All memorable monuments defaced,
+   All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.
+   That whoso then did in the borders dwell,
+   Lived little happier than those in hell.
+   But since the all-disposing God of heaven,
+   Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given,
+   Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered,
+   Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,
+   That now each subject may securely sleep,
+   His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep,
+   For now those crowns are both in one combined,
+   Those former borders, that each one confine,
+   Appears to me (as I do understand)
+   To be almost the centre of the land,
+   This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,
+   To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle.
+   Long may the instrumental cause survive.
+   From him and his, succession still derive
+   True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,
+   That these two kingdoms ever may be one;
+   This county of all _Scotland_ is most poor,
+   By reason of the outrages before,
+   Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow,
+   And as good grass as ever man did mow:
+   And as that day I twenty miles did pass,
+   I saw eleven hundred neat at grass,
+   By which may be conjectured at the least,
+   That there was sustenance for man and beast.
+   And in the kingdom I have truly scanned,
+   There's many worser parts, are better manned,
+   For in the time that thieving was in ure,
+   The gentles fled to places more secure.
+   And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain,
+   Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again.
+   The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty,
+   Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,
+   Twixt it and England, little odds I see,
+   They eat, and live, and strong and able be,
+   So much in verse, and now I'll change my style,
+   And seriously I'll write in prose awhile.
+
+To the purpose then: my first night's lodging in _Scotland_ was at a
+place called _Moffat_, which they say, is thirty miles from _Carlisle_,
+but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt
+_London_ and Saint _Albans_, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost as
+large measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an English
+gallon either of ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile
+(now and then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but
+howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest that
+ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found good
+ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was sweet and
+good, and might have served a far better man than myself, although
+myself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though
+it rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice,
+for I waded over a great river called _Esk_ in the morning, somewhat
+more than four miles distance from _Carlisle_ in _England_, and at night
+within two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the river of
+_Annan_ in _Scotland_, from which river the county of _Annandale_, hath
+its name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback,
+like the _George_ without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and
+left _Moffat_ behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one miles to a
+sorry village called _Blythe_, but I was blithe myself to come to any
+place of harbour or succour, for since I was born, I never was so weary,
+or so near being dead with extreme travel: I was foundered and
+refoundered of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that
+I must lodge without doors all night, or else in a poor house where the
+good wife lay in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant
+maid being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially
+adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I must
+either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got eggs and
+ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the
+floor by me, where in the night there were pigeons did very bountifully
+mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and having but fifteen
+miles to _Edinburgh_, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to
+hobble, and after to amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by
+degrees; all the way passing through a fertile country for corn and
+cattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday,
+being the thirteenth of August, and the day of _Clare_ the Virgin (the
+sign being in _Virgo_) the moon four days old, the wind at west, I came
+to take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous city of
+_Edinburgh_, which I entered like Pierce Penniless,oeee11] altogether
+moneyless, but I thank God, not friendless; for being there, for the
+time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I
+could get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure
+the price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to
+suffer him and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of
+litter, till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that
+would desperately disburse.
+
+Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with travel, and my
+mind attired with moody, muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation
+did devotely pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being
+willing to take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing,
+and circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his
+picture, but all my acquaintance was _Non est inventus_, (pardon me,
+reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by _Priscian's
+Pericranium_, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times.) At
+last I resolved, that the next gentleman that I meet withal, should be
+acquaintance whether he would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon
+a gentleman-like object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something
+through him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my
+gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way and
+made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving to
+encounter with any man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thus
+accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder gentleman, (meaning me) know
+me, that he looks so wistly on me? Truly sir, said my man, I think not,
+but my master is a stranger come from _London_, and would gladly meet
+some acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging and
+horse-meat. Presently the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition)
+overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a
+lodging, and caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we
+discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to him, as
+made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master _John Maxwell_)
+which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from out
+the walls of _London_: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself,
+the gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as my
+poor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.
+
+The Castle on a lofty rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, and
+founded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the foundation
+and walls are unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks
+invincible, no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable.
+In a word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in _Germany_, the
+_Netherlands_, _Spain_ and _England_, but they must all give place to
+this unconquered Castle, both for strength and situation.
+
+Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I noted
+especially a great piece of ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but
+it will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against
+any that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now
+dismounted.[12] And it is so great within, that it was told me that a
+child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept into it, lying
+on my back, and I am sure there was room enough and spare for a greater
+than myself.
+
+So leaving the Castle, as it is both defensive against my opposition,
+and magnific for lodging and receite,[13] I descended lower to the City,
+wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyes
+beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (which
+is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair port which they call
+the _Nether-Bow_) and from that port, the street which they call the
+_Kenny-gate_ is one quarter of a mile more, down to the King's Palace,
+called _Holy-rood-House_, the buildings on each side of the way being
+all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, and many
+bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's
+houses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, for in the
+High Street the merchants and tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen's
+mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
+lanes: the walls are eight or ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not
+built for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from antiquity to
+posterity, for many ages; there I found entertainment beyond my
+expectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such
+variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety.
+The worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there
+such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man had
+asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could not have made
+him a sober answer.
+
+I was at his Majesty's Palace, a stately and princely seat, wherein I
+saw a sumptuous chapel, most richly adorned with all appurtenances
+belonging to so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner
+court I saw the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a
+door aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which was
+written this inscription in Latin,
+
+     _Nobis hęc invicta miserunt, 106 proavi._
+
+I enquired what the English of it was? it was told
+me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be
+recorded.
+
+     _106, forefathers have left this to us unconquered._
+
+This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms or none
+in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many
+inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreign
+hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre the
+strength and policy of enemies, that royal crown and sceptre hath from
+one hundred and seven descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power
+of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now
+left peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the
+God of peace defend and govern.
+
+But once more, a word or two of _Edinburgh_, although I have scarcely
+given it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately
+buildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades
+me that they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well
+in that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the sea, and all
+navigable rivers being the chief means for the enriching of towns and
+cities, by the reason of traffic with foreign nations, with exportation,
+transportation, and receite of variety of merchandizing; so this city
+had it been built but one mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it
+had long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns
+and cities in _Europe_, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, state,
+and riches. It is said, that King _James_ the fifth (of famous memory)
+did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon them
+freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the
+seashore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their city,
+and build it in that more commodious place, but the citizens refused it;
+and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such
+another proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two days
+after the fair.
+
+Now have with you for _Leith_, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well
+entertained by Master _Barnard Lindsay_, one of the grooms of his
+Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because I
+brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass for
+current there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity[14] of my empty
+purse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, each
+being in value worth eleven shillings white money; and I was creditably
+informed, that within the compass of one year, there was shipped away
+from that only port of _Leith_, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats,
+and barley into _Spain_, _France_, and other foreign parts, and every
+bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from _Leith_
+only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of
+corn; besides some hath been shipped away from Saint _Andrews_, from
+_Dundee_, _Aberdeen_, _Dysart_, _Kirkaldy_, _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_,
+_Dunbar_, and other portable towns, which makes me to wonder that a
+kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so much
+bread-corn beyond the seas, and yet to have more than sufficient for
+themselves.
+
+So I having viewed the haven and town of _Leith_, took a passage boat to
+see the new wondrous Well,[15] to which many a one that is not well,
+comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that it
+had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or kill
+divers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoiding
+of the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with
+many other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God,
+having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done,
+but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant
+than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, and
+I did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as much
+as his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the
+stomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.
+
+I went two miles from it to a town called _Burntisland_, where I found
+many of my especial good friends, as Master _Robert Hay_, one of the
+Grooms of his Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master _David Drummond_, one of his
+Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master _James Acmootye_, one of the Grooms of the
+Privy Chamber, Captain _Murray_, Sir _Henry Witherington_ Knight,
+Captain _Tyrie_, and divers others: and there Master _Hay_, Master
+_Drummond_, and the good old Captain _Murray_ did very bountifully
+furnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those
+aforesaid gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange
+accident, which I think worth the relating.
+
+I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at sea in
+former times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of
+_Cadiz_; whereto an English gentleman replied, that he was the next good
+voyage after at the Islands: I answered him that I was there also. He
+demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens:
+why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my name
+is _Witherington_.
+
+Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is near
+two and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of
+you. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some
+remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him two
+or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will
+tell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotton; as our
+ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at anchor at the Isle of
+_Flores_ (one of the Isles of the _Azores_) there were some fourteen men
+and boys of our ship, that for novelty would go ashore, and see what
+fruit the island did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so
+being landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones,
+heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, musk-mellions,
+and potatoes; in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea
+was so extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to
+fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks;
+this continued five days, so that we were almost famished for want of
+food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of God
+I happened into a cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves
+of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in _England_, I having a
+valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty hours
+breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: and as I was
+about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put twelve of them
+into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the cave,
+leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a gentleman came to
+me, and said, "Friend, what are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For
+God's sake," said he, "give me some." With that, I put my hand into my
+breech, (being my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received
+with many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he would.
+
+I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir _Henry Witherington_ did
+acknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the loaf unto two and
+twenty years before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more
+privilege than mountains in meeting.
+
+In what great measure he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relate
+in this following discourse in my return through _Northumberland_: so
+leaving my man at the town of _Burntisland_, I told him, I would but go
+to _Stirling_, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourable
+friends the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ Knight, Lord of
+_Abercairney_, and that I would return within two days at the most: but
+it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and thirty days before I
+could get back again out of these noble men's company. The whole
+progress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay I cannot with
+gratefulness omit; and thus it was.
+
+A worthy gentleman named Master _John Fenton_, did bring me on my way
+six miles to _Dunfermline_, where I was well entertained, and lodged at
+Master _John Gibb_ his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's
+Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King hath: withal, I was
+well entertained there by Master _Crighton_ at his own house, who went
+with me, and shewed me the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely
+Mansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey,
+with fair gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which
+with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, were
+annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, which though
+it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been much
+larger. But I taking my leave of _Dunfermline_, would needs go and see
+the truly noble Knight Sir _George Bruce_, at a town called the
+_Culross_: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare,
+and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see his
+most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is a
+wonder; for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor any
+history that I have read, or any discourse that I have heard, did never
+see, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or be
+equivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I
+can say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his
+vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer
+of it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so
+accomplished a profit to the common-wealth shall be raked and smothered
+in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the description
+of it, although I amongst writers, am like he that worse may hold the
+candle.
+
+The mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land;
+but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please,
+and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it:
+but I for variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may
+object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being into the
+sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the mine? To which
+objection thus I answer, that at low water mark, the sea being ebbed
+away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (being
+mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of this great work build a
+round circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined together
+with glutinous or bituminous matter, so high withal that the sea at the
+highest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither
+dissolve the stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow
+the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did
+set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments fit
+for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into and through a
+rock. At last they found that which they expected, which was sea coal,
+they following the vein of the mine, did dig forward still: so that in
+the space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years, they have
+digged more than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at
+work below, an hundred of the greatest ships in _Britain_ man sail over
+their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut like an arch or
+a vault, all that great length, with many nooks and bye-ways: and it is
+so made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in and
+out. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through the
+want of employment would perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was
+come forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir _George Bruce_, I
+told him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had
+seen this mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have left
+the Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to have
+blown up the barges and wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates
+of our kingdom were. Moreover, I said, that I could afford to turn
+tapster at _London_, so that I had but
+          one quarter of a mile of his mine to make me
+             a cellar, to keep beer and bottled ale
+                 in. But leaving these jests in
+                   prose, I will relate a few
+                       verses that I made
+                         merrily of this
+                              mine.
+
+   I that have wasted, months, weeks, days, and hours
+   In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers,
+   Without all measure, measuring many paces,
+   And with my pen describing many places,
+   With few additions of mine own devising,
+   (Because I have a smack of _Coryatizing_[16])
+   Our _Mandeville_, _Primaleon_, _Don Quixote_,
+   Great _Amadis_, or _Huon_, travelled not
+   As I have done, or been where I have been,
+   Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;
+   Nor Britain's _Odcombe_ (_Zany_ brave _Ulysses_)
+   In all his ambling, saw the like as this is.
+   I was in (would I could describe it well)
+   A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,
+   And as by water I was wafted in,
+   I thought that I in _Charon's_ boat had been,
+   But being at the entrance landed thus,
+   Three men there (instead of _Cerberus_)
+   Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light
+   To guide us in that vault of endless night,
+   There young and old with glim'ring candles burning
+   Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,
+   Some in a hole with baskets and with bags,
+   Resembling furies, or infernal hags:
+   There one like _Tantalus_ feeding, and there one,
+   Like _Sisyphus_ he rolls the restless stone.
+   Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,
+   Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet[17]
+   For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,
+   There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell;
+   And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory,
+   Than _Rome_ doth by fantastic Purgatory.
+   A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep,
+   In deepness far more deep, than _Neptunes_ deep,
+   Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high)
+   Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky:
+   That had I died in that _Cimmerian_[18] room,
+   Four elements had covered o'er my tomb:
+   Thus farther than the bottom did I go,
+   (And many Englishmen have not done so;)
+   Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales,
+   And regiments of fish with fins and scales,
+   'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide,
+   And where great ships may at an anchor ride:
+   Thus in by sea, and out by land I past,
+   And took my leave of good Sir _George_ at last.
+
+The sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the mine, which by the
+industry of Sir _George Bruce_, is all conveyed to one well near the
+land; where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses
+and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty-six
+buckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen go down still to
+be filled, and eighteen ascend up to be emptied, which do empty
+themselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys the
+water into the sea again; by which means he saves his mine, which
+otherwise would be destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every
+week ninety or a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of
+_Scotland_, some he sends into _England_, and very much into _Germany_:
+all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthy
+endeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, and
+lastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to
+_Stirling_, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately
+house called _Allaway_, belonging to the Earl of _Mar_ which by reason
+that his honour was not there, I past by and went to _Stirling_, where I
+was entertained and lodged at one Master John _Archibalds_, where all my
+want was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I might
+have had there! he had me into the castle, which in few words I do
+compare to _Windsor_ for situation, much more than _Windsor_ in
+strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that his
+Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in
+_England_ or _Scotland_, except Westminster Hall which is now no
+dwelling hall for a prince, being long since metamorphosed into a house
+for the law and the profits.
+
+This goodly hall was built by King _James_ the fourth, that married King
+_Henry_ the Eight's sister, and after was slain at _Flodden field_; but
+it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, for
+length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle is built
+upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond _Edinburgh_ Castle in state and
+magnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of it
+are lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each room
+being so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber
+or lodging. There is also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables,
+and all other necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the
+majesty of a king.
+
+From _Stirling_ I rode to Saint _Johnstone_,[19] a fine town it is, but
+it is much decayed, by reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming
+to lodge there. There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the
+house his name being _Patrick Pitcairne_, where my entertainment was
+with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Mine
+host told me that the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ of
+_Abercairney_ were gone to the great hunting to the _Brae_ of _Mar_[20];
+but if I made haste I might perhaps find them at a town called
+_Brekin_, or _Brechin_, two and thirty miles from Saint _Johnstone_
+whereupon I took a guide to _Brechin_ the next day, but before I came,
+my lord was gone from thence four days.
+
+Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways over
+mountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I am
+sure I never saw any ways that might fellow them I did go through a
+country called _Glen Esk_, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep
+as the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yard
+broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into the
+bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen without
+recovery a good mile downright; but I thank God, at
+night I came to a lodging in the Laird of _Edzell's_ land, where I lay
+at an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English,
+but I supped and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was
+enforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musquitoes, a
+creature that hath six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon
+man's flesh, they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this
+house was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in
+_England_, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to me the _A._
+and the _Z._ the prologue and the epilogue, the first and the last that
+I had in all my travels from _Edinburgh_; and had not this Highland
+Irish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all
+_Scotland_ had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse upon me: but
+with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, and was never more
+troubled with them.
+
+The next day I travelled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount
+_Skene_, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; but
+when I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with
+cold, like Virginal's jacks;[21] and withal, a most familiar mist
+embraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way:
+withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my
+clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, in
+wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, the
+way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, that
+a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with four; for do what we
+could, we were four hours before we could pass it.
+
+Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting and
+alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brae of
+_Mar_, which is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that
+Shooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampstead Hill, Birdlip
+Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like a
+liver, or a gizard under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of
+their tops, or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount _Ben
+Aven_, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a night-cap:
+(for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the
+snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well as
+in winter.) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords
+_John Erskine_ Earl of Mar, _James Stuart_ Earl of Murray, _George
+Gordon_ Earl of Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, _James
+Erskine_ Earl of Buchan, and _John_ Lord _Erskine_, son and heir to the
+Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best
+assured and approved friend, Sir _William Murray_ Knight, of
+_Abercairney_, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and their
+followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if _Lycurgus_
+had been there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which
+is the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many of
+the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do come into
+these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform themselves to
+the habit of the Highland men, who for the most part speak nothing but
+Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the
+_Red-shanks_.[22] Their habit is shoes with but one sole apiece;
+stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of divers
+colours, which they call tartan: as for breeches, many of them, nor
+their forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that
+their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw,
+with a plaid about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours,
+of much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps on
+their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their neck; and
+thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows and forked
+arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, dirks, and Lochaber
+axes. With these arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for
+their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them,
+must not disdain to wear it; for if they do, then they will disdain to
+hunt, or willingly, to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto
+them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and
+the sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so many
+noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.
+
+My good Lord of _Mar_ having put me into that shape,[23] I rode with him
+from his house, where I saw the ruins of an old castle, called the
+castle of _Kindroghit_ [Castletown]. It was built by King _Malcolm
+Canmore_ (for a hunting house) who reigned in _Scotland_ when _Edward_
+the Confessor, _Harold_, and Norman _William_ reigned in _England_: I
+speak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts;
+for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house,
+corn field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses,
+wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never
+have seen a house again.[24]
+
+Thus the first day we travelled eight miles, where there small cottages
+built on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good
+Lord _Erskine_, he commanded that I should always be lodged in his
+lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many kettles
+and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great variety
+of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and stewed beef, mutton,
+goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, hens, capons, chickens,
+partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, capercailzies, and termagants
+[ptarmigans]; good ale, sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante)
+with most potent _Aquavitę_.
+
+All these, and more than these we had continually, in superfluous
+abundance, caught by Falconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my
+Lord's tenants and purveyors to victual our camp, which consisted of
+fourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is
+this: five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do
+disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles compass,
+they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, three, or four
+hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the Nobleman shall
+appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and gentlemen of their
+companies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up to
+their middles through bournes and rivers: and then: they being come to
+the place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid scouts which
+are called the Tinchel, do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says
+of a bad cook, so these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for
+besides their bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear
+now and then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom
+discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or
+thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round about
+us, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed close
+by the Tinchel, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then all
+the valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong
+Irish greyhounds, they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the
+herd of deer, so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in
+the space of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are
+disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty miles, and
+more than enough left for us to make merry withal at our rendezvous. I
+liked the sport so well, that I made these two sonnets following.
+
+   Why should I waste invention to indite,
+   _Ovidian_ fictions, or Olympian games?
+   My misty Muse enlightened with more light,
+   To a more noble pitch her aim she frames.
+   I must relate to my great Master JAMES,
+   The Caledonian annual peaceful war;
+   How noble minds do eternize their fames,
+   By martial meeting in the Brae of _Mar_:
+   How thousand gallant spirits came near and far,
+   With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns,
+   That all the troop to men of judgment, are
+   The God of Wars great never conquered sons,
+   The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts,
+   And last the victor on the vanquished feasts.
+   If sport like this can on the mountains be,
+   Where _Phoebus_ flames can never melt the snow;
+   Then let who list delight in vales below,
+   Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me:
+   What braver object can man's eyesight see,
+   Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights,
+   As if they were prepared for sundry fights,
+   Yet all in sweet society agree?
+   Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,
+   'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills,
+   Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs,
+   Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills.
+   Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat,
+   The Highland games and minds, are high and great.
+
+Being come to our lodgings, there was such baking, boiling, roasting,
+and stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil
+in his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an
+indifferent May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of _Mar_ will give
+any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that are as
+good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they were in any
+place near the Thames, or any other portable river) the best earldom in
+England or Scotland either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing
+there, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world)
+for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, barks, and
+water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years.
+
+This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands do
+know that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is
+the pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in
+such rocky mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be
+passable, either with boat, horse, or cart.
+
+Thus having spent certain days in hunting in the Brae of _Mar_, we went
+to the next county called _Badenoch_, belonging to the Earl of _Enzie_,
+where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after four
+or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and took
+our journey toward a strong house of the Earl's, called _Ruthven_ in
+_Badenoch_, where my Lord of _Enzie_ and his noble Countess (being
+daughter to the Earl of _Argyle_) did give us most noble welcome three
+days.
+
+From thence we went to a place called _Balloch Castle_,[25] a fair and
+stately house, a worthy gentleman being the owner of it, called the
+Laird of _Grant_; his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended
+being sister to the right Honourable Earl of _Athol_, and to Sir
+_Patrick Murray_ Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardly
+plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: so that our
+cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could afford
+us. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knights
+and Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every meal
+four long tables furnished with all varieties: our first and second
+course being three score dishes at one board; and after that always a
+banquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to _Edinburgh_
+I think I had there drunk my last.
+
+The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to _Tarnaway_, a goodly
+house of the Earl of _Murrays_,[26] where that Right Honourable Lord and
+his Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all
+variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed the
+County of _Murray_ is the most pleasantest and plentiful country in all
+_Scotland_; being plain land, that a coach may be driven more than four
+and thirty miles one way in it, alongst by the sea-coast.
+
+From thence I went to _Elgin_ in _Murray_,[27] an ancient City, where
+there stood a fair and beautiful church with three steeples, the walls
+of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, and
+many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy personages all
+broken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bare rule, and
+Knox knocked down churches.
+
+From _Elgin_ we went to the Bishop of _Murray_ his house which is called
+_Spiny_, or _Spinay_: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of
+_Douglas_, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour of
+himself and his guests.
+
+From thence we departed to the Lord Marquess of _Huntlys_ to a sumptuous
+house of his, named the _Bog of Geethe_, where our entertainment was
+like himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days
+stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords to
+depart towards _Edinburgh_: the Noble Marquess, the Earl of _Mar_,
+_Murray_, _Enzie_, _Buchan_, and the Lord _Erskine_; all these, I thank
+them, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey.
+
+So after five and thirty days hunting and travel I returning, past by
+another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called _Stroboggy_, and
+so over _Carny_ mount to _Brechin_, where a wench that was born deaf and
+dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she opening
+the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had I been a
+_Sardanapalus_, or a _Heliogabulus_, I think that either the great
+travel over the mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty could
+never have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was as
+sweet as sugar-candian,[28] being very well shouldered beneath the
+waste; and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed
+her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But
+howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of my
+sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knew
+who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; and
+for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair.
+
+Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins as at _Brechin_, I
+departed from thence to a town called _Forfor_; and from thence to
+_Dundee_, and so to _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, and so to _Edinburgh_,
+where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises, which
+I received in my travel in the Highland mountainous hunting. Great
+welcome I had showed me all my stay at _Edinburgh_, by many worthy
+gentlemen, namely, old Master _George Todrigg_, Master _Henry
+Livingston_, Master _James Henderson_, Master _John Maxwell_, and a
+number of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may
+be imagined.
+
+Now the day before I came from _Edinburgh_, I went to _Leith_, where I
+found my long approved and assured good friend Master _Benjamin Jonson_,
+at one Master _John Stuarts_ house; I thank him for his great kindness
+towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold of
+two and twenty shillings[29] to drink his health in _England_. And
+withal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends:
+So with a friendly farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see
+him in a worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that
+know his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much respective
+love he is worthily entertained.
+
+So leaving _Leith_ I returned to _Edinburgh_, and within the port or
+gate, called the _Nether-Bow_, I discharged my pockets of all the money
+I had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my first
+coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came moneyless out
+of it again; having in company to convey me out, certain gentlemen,
+amongst the which Master _James Acherson_, Laird of _Gasford_, a
+gentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainment
+he and his good wife did welcome me.
+
+On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called
+_Adam_, to Master _John Acmootye_ his house, one of the Grooms of his
+Majesty's Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master
+_Alexander_, and Master _James Acmootye_, I found both cheer and
+welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any former place.
+
+Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole and
+Goose (_sic_), a most delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in
+a little rock called the _Bass_, which stands two miles into the sea. It
+is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat oysters,
+standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, unsanctified without
+grace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or three
+good rouses[30] of sherry or canary sack. The Lord or owner of the
+_Bass_ doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those geese;
+the _Bass_ itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a
+mile in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one
+small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in it; and
+on the top of it a well of pure fresh water.
+
+From _Adam_, Master _John_ and Master _James Acmootye_ went to the town
+of _Dunbar_ with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed,
+and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master _James Baylies_
+house I took leave, and Master _James Acmootye_ coming for _England_,
+said, that if I would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want
+betwixt that place and _London_. Now I having no money nor means for
+travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last my want
+persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's undeserved
+courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called _Cockburnspath_,
+where we lodged at an inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in any
+of his Majesty's Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master
+_William Arnot_ and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their
+bountiful entertainment of guests, which is this:
+
+Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at their
+house, the men shall have flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all
+variety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall
+want neither hay or provender: and at the morning at their departure the
+reckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his
+chief delight being only to give strangers entertainment _gratis_: and I
+am sure, that in _Scotland_ beyond _Edinburgh_, I have been at houses
+like castles for building; the master of the house his beaver being his
+blue bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the flax that
+grows on his own ground, and of his wife's, daughters', or servants'
+spinning; that hath his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his
+own sheep's backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer,
+draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn
+bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains
+thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day relieving
+three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, can
+give noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or six
+earls and lords, besides knights, gentlemen and their followers, if they
+be three or four hundred men, and horse of them, where they shall not
+only feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man that
+desires to know nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose
+greatest cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and
+hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless fashions,
+he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred acres on his
+back at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered with
+golden garters, and manacled with artificial roses, whose weight
+(sometime) is the last reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these
+worthy housekeepers there are in _Scotland_, amongst some of them I was
+entertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaid
+observations.
+
+So leaving _Cockburnspath_, we rode to _Berwick_, where the worthy old
+Soldier and ancient Knight, Sir _William Bowyer_, made me welcome, but
+contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master _James Acmootye_
+paid all charges: but at _Berwick_ there was a grievous chance happened,
+which I think not fit the relation to be omitted.
+
+In the river of _Tweed_, which runs by _Berwick_, are taken by fishermen
+that dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many
+households and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but
+(how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy
+whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long amongst
+them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday,
+the salmons played in such great abundance in the river, that some of
+the fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats and
+nets and fished, and caught near three hundred salmons; but from that
+time until Michaelmas day that I was there, which was nine weeks, and
+heard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserable
+lamentations, they had not seen one salmon in the river; and some of
+them were in despair that they should never see any more there;
+affirming it to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation of the
+Sabbath.
+
+The thirtieth of September we rode from _Berwick_ to _Belford_ from
+_Belford_ to _Alnwick_, the next day from _Alnwick_ to _Newcastle_,
+where I found the noble Knight, Sir _Henry Witherington_; who, because I
+would have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf
+of bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the Island
+of _Flores_, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at
+_Newcastle_ a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for
+_London_, namely, Master _Robert Hay_, and Master _David Drummond_,
+where I was welcomed at Master _Nicholas Tempests_ house. From
+_Newcastle_ I rode with those gentlemen to _Durham_, to _Darlington_, to
+_Northallerton_, and to _Topcliffe_ in _Yorkshire_, where I took my
+leave of them, and would needs try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and
+see the city of _York_, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good
+friend, Master Doctor _Hudson_ one of his Majesty's chaplains, who went
+with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the most
+admirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed[31] chapter house.
+
+From _York_ I rode to _Doncaster_, where my horses were well fed at the
+Bear, but myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir _Robert Anstruther_
+at his father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir _Robert Swifts_ house, he
+being then High Sheriff of _Yorkshire_, where with their good Ladies,
+and the right Honourable the Lord _Sanquhar_, I was stayed two nights
+and one day, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ (I thank him) not only paying for
+my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a letter to
+_Newark_ upon _Trent_, twenty eight miles in my way, where Master
+_George Atkinson_ mine host made me as welcome, as if I had been a
+French Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid as
+much; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir _Robert
+Anstruther_.
+
+So leaving _Newark_, with another gentleman that overtook me, we came at
+night to _Stamford_, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead)
+where I delivered a letter from the Lord _Sanquhar_; which caused Master
+_Bates_ and his wife, being the master and mistress of the house, to
+make me and the gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing.
+
+From _Stamford_ the next day we rode to _Huntington_, where we lodged at
+the Postmaster's house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is _Riggs_.
+He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless
+progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with us, and
+very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar, and four
+jugs of beer. He did drink and begin healths like a horse-leech and
+swallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or
+nine pound of sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank
+post, striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or
+to make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like
+a jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible
+shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for his
+superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.
+
+But leaving him, I left _Huntington_, and rode on the Sunday to
+_Puckeridge_, where Master _Holland_ at the Falcon, (mine old
+acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, my man,
+and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, not a
+penny of money.
+
+The next day I came to _London_, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I
+went to a house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to
+_Islington_, to the sign of the Maidenhead,[32] staying till Wednesday,
+that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesday
+was my first coming; where with all love I was entertained with much
+good cheer: and after supper we had a play of the Life and Death of _Guy
+of Warwick_,[33] played by the Right Honourable the Earl of _Derby_ his
+men. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I
+came home to my house in _London_.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS AND OTHERS.
+
+
+   Thus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask,
+   By any course, direct or indirectly:
+   But in each tittle I performed my task,
+   According to my bill most circumspectly.
+   I vow to God, I have done SCOTLAND wrong,
+   (And (justly) against me it may bring an action)
+   I have not given it that right which doth belong,
+   For which I am half guilty of detraction:
+   Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,
+   Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,
+   And so my name I should in question draw,
+   Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter:
+   Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen,
+   That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap,
+   In such abundant food for beasts and men;
+   That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap.
+   Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;
+   And what I do believe, I know is true:
+   And what is true unto your hands I give,
+   That what I give, may be believed of you.
+   But as for him that says I lie or dote,
+   I do return, and turn the lie in's throat.
+     Thus gentlemen, amongst you take my ware,
+     You share my thanks, and I your moneys share.
+
+        _Yours in all observance and gratefulness,
+
+              ever to be commanded_,
+
+                   JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+[Decoration]
+
+
+[Footnote 1: PROVANT.--Provender; provision.]
+
+[Footnote 2: FEGARY.--A vagary.]
+
+[Footnote 3: TRUNDLE.--_i.e._, John Trundle of the sign of _No-body_
+(see note page 6).]
+
+[Footnote 4: It is reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom
+of "Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue--or, _No-body_ would have
+taken the oath.]
+
+[Footnote 5: NAMED LEAN AND FEN.--Some jest is intended here on the
+Host's name.--Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of A. FENNEL.]
+
+[Footnote 6: NO-BODY was the singular sign of John Trundle, a
+ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who seems to
+have accompanied our author as far as _Whetstone_ on his "Penniless
+Pilgrimage"--and, certainly up to this point a very "wet" one!] In one
+of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is introduced, "attyred in a payre of
+Breeches, which were made to come up to his neck, with his armes out at
+his pockets and cap drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for
+John Trundle and are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of
+No-Body." A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at
+Britwell House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a
+woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a torn
+money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken pots, pans,
+bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. Above him is a scroll
+in black-letter:--
+
+"Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame."
+
+The ballad commences as follows:--
+
+   "Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe,
+   So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe;
+           But nowe, beholde, here I am,
+           Whom all the worlde doeth diffame;
+           Long have they also scorned me,
+           And locked my mouthe for speking free.
+           As many a Godly man they have so served
+           Which unto them God's truth hath shewed;
+           Of such they have burned and hanged some.
+           That unto their ydolatrye wold not come:
+           The Ladye Truthe they have locked in cage,
+           Saying of her Nobodye had knowledge.
+           For as much nowe as they name Nobodye
+           I thinke verilye they speke of me:
+           Whereffore to answere I nowe beginne--
+           The locke of my mouthe is opened with ginne,
+           Wrought by no man, but by God's grace,
+           Unto whom be prayse in every place," &c.
+
+Larwood and Hotten's _History of Signboards_.]
+
+[Footnote 7: PULSE.--All sorts of leguminous seeds.]
+
+[Footnote 8: See Dedication to _The Scourge of Baseness_.]
+
+[Footnote 9: MASTER DOCTOR HOLLAND.--The once well-known Philemon
+Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age," published
+translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History," 1601; Camden's
+"Britannica," &c. He is said to have used in translation more paper and
+fewer pens than any other writer before or since, and who "would not let
+Suetonius be Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.]
+
+[Footnote 10: EDMUND BRANTHWAITE.--Robert Branthwaite, William
+Branthwaite _Cant._, and "Thy assured friend" R. B., have each written
+Commendatory Verses to ALL THE WORKS OF JOHN TAYLOR. London 1630. And
+Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets," has the
+following:--"One might have hoped in these parts for a happy meeting
+between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal memory; indeed it is
+likely that the Water-Poet and the Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and
+that the latter may have introduced him to his connections hereabout,
+Branthwaite being the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother
+having married a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."]
+
+[Footnote 11: PIERCE PENNILESS, by Thomas Nash. London, 1592.]
+
+[Footnote 12: This "ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is
+historically known as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."]
+
+[Footnote 13: RECEITE.--A receptacle.]
+
+[Footnote 14: VAUSTITY.--Emptiness.]
+
+[Footnote 15: _See_ Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb.
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 16: CORYATIZING.--Thomas Coryate, an English traveller, who
+called himself the "Odcombian leg-stretcher." He was the son of the
+rector of Odcombe, and in 1611 published an account of his travels on
+the Continent with the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily
+gobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia,
+commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some
+parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the
+hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed to
+the nourishment of the travelling members of this Kingdome, &c. London,
+printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611." Taylor had an especial grudge
+against Coryat, for having had influence enough to procure his "Laugh
+and be Fat"--directed against the traveller--to be burned; and that he
+never failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many
+pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities," even after
+his death.]
+
+[Footnote 17: TOPHET.--The Hebrew name for _Hell_.]
+
+[Footnote 18: CIMMERIAN.--Pertaining to the Cimmerii, or their country;
+extremely and perpetually dark. The Cimmerii were an ancient people of
+the land now called the Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy
+fogs, was fabled to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient
+poets also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near Lake
+Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to visit.]
+
+[Footnote 19: PERTH.]
+
+[Footnote 20: BRAEMAR.]
+
+[Footnote 21: VIRGINAL JACK.--A keyed instrument resembling a spinet.]
+
+[Footnote 22: RED-SHANKS.--A contemptuous appellation for Scottish Highland
+clansmen and native Irish, with reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and
+"As lively as a _Red-Shank_" is still a proverbial saying:--"And we came into
+Ireland, where they would have landed in the north parts. But I would
+not, because there the inhabitants were all _Red-shanks_."--_Sir Walter
+Raleigh's_ Speech on the Scaffold.]
+
+[Footnote 23: PUT ME INTO THAT SHAPE.--That is, invested him in Highland
+attire.]
+
+[Footnote 24: "Probably the district around the skirts of Ben
+Muicdui."--_Chambers'_ Domestic Annals of Scotland.]
+
+[Footnote 25: BALLOCH CASTLE.--Now called Castle-Grant.]
+
+[Footnote 26: MORAY.]
+
+[Footnote 27: MORAYLAND.]
+
+[Footnote 28: SUGAR-CANDIAN.--_i.e._, Sugar-candy.]
+
+[Footnote 29: A PIECE OF GOLD OF TWO-AND-TWENTY SHILLINGS.--"This was a
+considerable present; but Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his
+acquaintance. All his pleasures were social; and while health and
+fortune smiled upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents
+to those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's
+concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to Drummond
+is considered:--but there is one _evil that walks_, which keener eyes
+than John's have often failed to discover.--I have only to add, in
+justice to this honest man (Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the
+subject of it. He paid the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's
+memory:--the verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better
+to give."--Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's Ben
+Jonson's Works, p. xli.
+
+"In the summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben
+Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives for a
+journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be curiosity regarding
+a country from which he knew that his family was derived, his
+grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of Annandale. He had many
+friends too, particularly among the connections of the Lennox family,
+whom he might be glad to see at their own houses. Among those with whom
+he had amicable intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the
+prime of life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of
+Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is probable that
+Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and indulged together in
+the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar scenes. Indeed, there is a
+prevalent belief in Scotland that it was mainly to see Drummond at
+Hawthornden that Jonson came so far from home, and certain it is, from
+Drummond's report of his '_Conversations_,' that he designed 'to write a
+Fisher or Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play--and make the stage of it on the
+Lomond Lake--he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot Pilgrimage
+to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in one who found so
+much to admire where so little had been known, he spoke of entitling 'A
+DISCOVERY.' Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he
+called Edinburgh--
+
+     'The Heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye,'
+
+has not been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work
+contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's
+letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be regretted that
+we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by so vigorous a pen as
+that of the author of _Sejanual_"--_Chambers'_ Domestic
+Annals of Scotland, vol. 1.
+
+Whether Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and
+prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would now be
+difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks in his
+Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c.," he had been accused by
+the critics that he "_did undergo this project, either in malice, or
+mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson_." It is quite certain that Taylor
+lost no time in getting his "Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the
+author" immediately on his return to London on the fifteenth of October
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 30: ROUSE.--A full glass, a bumper.]
+
+[Footnote 31: UNFELLOWED.--_i.e._, not matched.]
+
+[Footnote 32: TO ISLINGTON TO THE SIGN OF THE MAINDENHEAD.--This then
+roadside Public-house, we are informed from recent enquiries, was
+situate at the corner of Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's
+Cross, from a statue of George IV.--a most execrable performance taken
+down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named the
+Victoria, while Maiden Lane--an ancient way leading from Battle Bridge
+to Highgate Hill--is known now as York Road.]
+
+[Footnote 33: GUY OF WARWICK.--There are several versions and editions of
+this work. In the book of the Stationers' Company, John Trundle--he at
+the sign of NO-BODY--on the 15th of January, 1619, entered "a play,
+called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of Warwick, written by John Day
+and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.--"Well,
+if he read this with patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master
+Trundle yonder, the rest of my mortality."--_Ben Jonson's_ Every Man in
+his Humour, act i. sc. 2.]
+
+
+Corrections Made by Transcriber
+
+     Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his."
+     Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten."
+     Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes."
+     Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be."
+     Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.
+
+
+
+
+
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