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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage
+       Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor
+
+Author: John Taylor
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
+
+1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes missing or
+   missplaced in the original. These have been made consistent with
+   modern convention.
+
+2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been added.
+
+3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end
+   the book.
+
+4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at the
+   end of the book.
+
+
+
+THE
+PENNYLES
+PILGRIMAGE,
+
+OR
+
+The Money-lesse perambulation,
+
+of JOHN TAYLOR, _Alias_
+the Kings Majesties
+_Water-Poet_.
+
+HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT
+from _London_ to _Edenborough_ in _Scotland_, not carrying
+any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing,
+or Asking Meate, drinke or
+Lodging.
+
+_With his Description of his Entertainment_
+in all places of his Journey, and a true Report
+of the unmatchable Hunting in the _Brea_
+of _Marre_ and _Badenoch_ in
+_Scotland_.
+
+With other Observations, some serious and
+worthy of Memory, and some merry
+and not hurtfull to be Remembred.
+
+_Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)
+all is true._
+
+LONDON
+
+Printed by _Edw: Allde_, at the charges of the
+Author. 1618
+
+
+
+
+TO THE TRULY
+NOBLE AND RIGHT
+HONORABLE LORD GEORGE MARQUIS
+of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of
+Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's
+Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master
+of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen
+of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight
+of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and
+one of his Majesty's most Honorable
+Privy Council of both the
+Kingdoms of England
+and Scotland.
+
+
+Right Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I was
+entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, Worshipful
+Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in England and Scotland.
+So now your Lordship's inclination hath incited, or invited my poor muse
+to shelter herself under the shadow of your honorable patronage, not
+that there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in all
+humility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that
+is able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.
+
+          Your Honors,
+
+              In all observance,
+
+                    JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS,
+BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER,
+MY GENERAL SALUTATION.
+
+
+_Reader, these Travels of mine into_ Scotland, _were not undertaken,
+neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised by
+myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends both in this Kingdom of_
+England, _and that of_ Scotland, _and because I would be an eye-witness
+of divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas many
+shallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by
+others, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage
+of Master_ Benjamin Jonson, _I vow by the faith of a Christian, that
+their imaginations are all wide, for he is a gentleman, to whom I am so
+much obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received from
+him, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudent
+or ungrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own
+instigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so much
+goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if you
+expect_
+
+That I should write of cities' situations,
+Or that of countries I should make relations:
+Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills,
+Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills,
+Of shires, and piers, and memorable things,
+Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings,
+I touch not those, they not belong to me;
+But if such things as these you long to see,
+Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read
+The learned _Camden_, or laborious _Speed_.
+
+     _And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest
+
+          Yours in all thankfulness:_
+
+                JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TAYLOR'S
+PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.
+
+
+   List Lordlings, list (if you have lust to list)
+   I write not here a tale of had I wist:
+   But you shall hear of travels, and relations,
+   Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.
+   And he that not believes what here is writ,
+   Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.
+   The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)
+   One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen,
+   And to relate all things in order duly,
+   'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July,
+   Saint _Revels_ day, the almanack will tell ye
+   The sign in _Virgo_ was, or near the belly:
+   The moon full three days old, the wind full south;
+   At these times I began this trick of youth.
+   I speak not of the tide, for understand,
+   My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land,
+   Though in the morning I began to go
+   Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,
+   That make what haste I could, the sun was set,
+   E're from the gates of _London_ I could get.
+   At last I took my latest leave thus late,
+   At the Bell Inn, that's _extra Aldersgate_.
+   There stood a horse that my provant[1] should carry,
+   From that place to the end of my fegary,[2]
+   My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag,
+   That with good understanding bore my bag:
+   And of good carriage he himself did show,
+   These things are excellent in a beast you know.
+   There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees)
+   I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese
+   With roses, barberries, of each conserves,
+   And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves:
+   And I entreat you take these words for no-lies,
+   I had good _Aqua vitę, Rosa_ so-lies:
+   With sweet _Ambrosia_, (the gods' own drink)
+   Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think,
+   Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,
+   That could a daring saucy stomach foil.
+   This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,
+   Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine,
+   I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,
+   And went that night as far as _Islington_.
+   There did I find (I dare affirm it bold)
+   A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old,
+   But surely it was painted, like a whore,
+   And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door,
+   Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,
+   May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.
+   There did my loving friendly host begin
+   To entertain me freely to his inn:
+   And there my friends, and good associates,
+   Each one to mirth himself accommodates.
+   _At Well-head_ both for welcome, and for cheer,
+   Having a good _New ton_, of good stale beer:
+   There did we _Trundle_[3] down health, after health,
+   (Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)
+   Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk,
+   And only _No-body_[3] was three parts drunk.
+   The morrow next, Wednesday Saint _Swithin's_ day,
+   From ancient _Islington_ I took my way.
+   At _Holywell_ I was enforced carouse,
+   Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House.
+   But there's a help to make amends for all,
+   That though the ale be great, the pots be small.
+   At _Highgate_ Hill to a strange house I went,
+   And saw the people were to eating bent,
+   In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought,
+   But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.
+   I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant,
+   But I did practise thus before my want;
+   Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,
+   Before the day he'll often exercise.
+   So I began to put in use, at first
+   These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst.
+   Close to the Gate,[4] there dwelt a worthy man,
+   That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can,
+   Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil,
+   Do call him _Robin Pluto_, or the devil.
+   But finding him a devil, freely hearted,
+   With friendly farewells I took leave and parted,
+   And as alongst I did my journey take,
+   I drank at _Broom's well_, for pure fashion's sake,
+   Two miles I travelled then without a bait,
+   The Saracen's Head at _Whetstone_ entering straight,
+   I found an host, that might lead an host of men,
+   Exceeding fat, yet named _Lean_, and _Fen_.[5]
+   And though we make small reckoning of him here,
+   He's known to be a very great man there.
+   There I took leave of all my company,
+   Bade all farewell, yet spake to _No-body_.
+   Good reader think not strange, what I compile,
+   For _No-body_ was with me all this while.
+   And _No-body_ did drink, and, wink, and scink,
+   And on occasion freely spent his chink.
+   If anyone desire to know the man,
+   Walk, stumble, _Trundle_, but in _Barbican_.
+   There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd,
+   And in that street kind _No-body_[6] is hanged.
+   But leaving him unto his matchless fame,
+   I to St. _Albans_ in the evening came,
+   Where Master _Taylor_, at the Saracen's Head,
+   Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed.
+   The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all,
+   Saved me a labour, that I need not call,
+   The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round,
+   And in a word great kindness there I found,
+   For which both to my cousin, and his men,
+   I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.
+   Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,
+   And then I went plain _Dunstable_ highway.
+   My very heart with drought methought did shrink,
+   I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.
+   Which made me call to mind, that instant time,
+   That drunkenness was a most sinful crime.
+   When _Puddle-hill_ I footed down, and past
+   A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last.
+   There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread,
+   We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed.
+   And whilst two hours we there did take our ease,
+   My nag made shift to mump green pulse[7] and peas.
+   Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,
+   And drank the water of a brook hard by.
+   Away toward _Hockley_ in the Hole, we make,
+   When straight a horseman did me overtake,
+   Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin,
+   I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin,
+   I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink,
+   And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.
+   Away rode he, but like an honest man,
+   I found at _Hockley_ standing at the Swan,
+   A formal tapster, with a jug and glass,
+   Who did arrest me: I most willing was
+   To try the action, and straight put in bail,
+   My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale,
+   To quit this kindness, I most willing am,
+   The man that paid for all, his name is _Dam_,
+   At the Green Dragon, against _Grays-Inn_ gate,
+   He lives in good repute, and honest state.
+   I forward went in this my roving race,
+   To _Stony Stratford_ I toward night did pace,
+   My mind was fixed through the town to pass,
+   To find some lodging in the hay or grass,
+   But at the _Queen's Arms_, from the window there,
+   A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,
+   Call _Taylor, Taylor_, and be hanged come hither,
+   I looked for small entreaty and went thither,
+   There were some friends, which I was glad to see,
+   Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.
+   On Friday morn, as I would take my way,
+   My friendly host entreated me to stay,
+   Because it rained, he told me I should have
+   Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave.
+   I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor,
+   But if I live, I will requite him better.
+   (From _Stony Stratford_) the way hard with stones,
+   Did founder me, and vex me to the bones.
+   In blustering weather, both for wind and rain,
+   Through _Towcester_ I trotted with much pain,
+   Two miles from thence, we sat us down and dined,
+   Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.
+   We having fed, away incontinent,
+   With weary pace toward _Daventry_ we went.
+   Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,
+   And told me he would leave a jug of beer,
+   At _Daventry_ at the Horse-shoe for my use.
+   I thought it no good manners to refuse,
+   But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,
+   Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,
+   Came limping after to that stony town,
+   Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down.
+   There had my friend performed the words he said,
+   And at the door a jug of liquor staid,
+   The folks were all informed, before I came,
+   How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,
+   Which caused mine hostess from her door come out,
+   (Having a great wart rampant on her snout.)
+   The tapsters, hostlers, one another call,
+   The chamberlains with admiration all,
+   Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,
+   As if some monster sent from the _Mogul_,
+   Some elephant from _Africa_, I had been,
+   Or some strange beast from the _Amazonian_ Queen.
+   As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl,
+   Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl,
+   So did these brainless asses, all amazed,
+   With admirable _Nonsense_ talked and gazed,
+   They knew my state (although not told by me)
+   That I could scarcely go, they all could see,
+   They drank of my beer, that to me was given,
+   But gave me not a drop to make all even,
+   And that which in my mind was most amiss,
+   My hostess she stood by and saw all this,
+   Had she but said, come near the house my friend,
+   For this day here shall be your journey's end.
+   Then had she done the thing which [she] did not,
+   And I in kinder words had paid the shot.
+   I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)
+   If they to _Daventry_ do chance to come,
+   That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance,
+   Or accident into that house they glance,
+   Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,
+   My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,[8]
+   Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will,
+   You for your money shall be welcome still.
+   From thence that night, although my bones were sore,
+   I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:
+   The way to _Dunchurch_, foul with dirt and mire,
+   Able, I think, both man and horse to tire.
+   On _Dunsmoor_ Heath, a hedge doth there enclose
+   Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.
+   Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly learn,
+   With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern,
+   Of which we made a field-bed in the field,
+   Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield.
+   There with my mother earth, I thought it fit
+   To lodge, and yet no incest did commit:
+   My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs,
+   And being weary, I went up no stairs:
+   The sky my canopy, bright _Phoebe_ shined
+   Sweet bawling _Zephyrus_ breathed gentle wind,
+   In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night,
+   Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light;
+   There barricadoed with a bank lay we
+   Below the lofty branches of a tree,
+   There my bed-fellows and companions were,
+   My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer:
+   But yet for all this most confused rout,
+   We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out.
+   Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster,
+   Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;
+   And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,)
+   Allowed us a large covering and a blanket;
+   _Auroras_ face 'gan light our lodging dark,
+   We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark,
+   Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,
+   I travelled to the city _Coventry_.
+   There Master Doctor _Holland_[9] caused me stay
+   The day of _Saturn_ and the Sabbath day.
+   Most friendly welcome, he me did afford,
+   I was so entertained at bed and board,
+   Which as I dare not brag how much it was,
+   I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,
+   But with thanks many I remember it,
+   (Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ,
+   He used me like his son, more than a friend,
+   And he on Monday his commends did send
+   To _Newhall_, where a gentleman did dwell,
+   Who by his name is hight _Sacheverell_.
+   The Tuesday _July's_ one and twentieth day,
+   I to the city _Lichfield_ took my way,
+   At _Sutton Coldfield_ with some friends I met,
+   And much ado I had from thence to get,
+   There I was almost put unto my trumps,
+   My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;
+   But noble _Vulcan_, a mad smuggy smith,
+   All reparations me did furnish with.
+   The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod,
+   And he referred the payment unto God.
+   I found a friend, when I to _Lichfield_ came,
+   A joiner, and _John Piddock_ is his name.
+   He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,
+   And he did furnish me with good provant:
+   He offered me some money, I refused it,
+   And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it,
+   That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass,
+   Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,
+   With here and there a pelting scattered village,
+   Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:
+   For all the day, nor yet the night that followed.
+   One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.
+   At night I came to a stony town called _Stone_.
+   Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:
+   I therefore through the streets held on my pace,
+   Some two miles farther to some resting place:
+   At last I spied a meadow newly mowed,
+   The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed:
+   We made a breach, and entered horse and man,
+   There our pavilion, we to pitch began,
+   Which we erected with green broom and hay,
+   To expel the cold, and keep the rain away;
+   The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,
+   And presently there fell a mighty shower,
+   Which without intermission down did pour,
+   From ten a night, until the morning's four.
+   We all that time close in our couch did lie,
+   Which being well compacted kept us dry.
+   The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,
+   And so a temperate diet we did keep.
+   The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs,
+   We being as ready as we had been dogs:
+   We need not stand upon long ready making,
+   But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:
+   And for I found my host and hostess kind,
+   I like a true man left my sheets behind.
+   That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,
+   Unto a town that is _Newcastle_ named.
+   (Not that _Newcastle_ standing upon _Tyne_)
+   But this town situation doth confine
+   Near _Cheshire_, in the famous county _Stafford_,
+   And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;
+     But now my versing muse craves some repose,
+     And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose.
+
+In this town of _Newcastle_, I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what
+the next town was called, that was in my way toward _Lancaster_, he
+holding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute,
+piped me this answer, and said, _Talk-on-the-Hill_; I asked him again
+what he said _Talk-on-the-Hill_: I demanded the third time, and the
+third time he answered me as he did before, _Talk-on-the-Hill_. I began
+to grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my way
+as well there as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town
+was four miles off me, and that the name of it was, _Talk-on-the-Hill_:
+I had not travelled above two miles farther: but my last night's supper
+(which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by my
+stomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun:
+I have fared better at three Suns many times before now, in _Aldersgate
+Street_, _Cripplegate_, and new _Fish Street_; but here is the odds, at
+those Suns they will come upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting
+as a tailor's bill of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls
+not half so heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law
+in their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of debt,
+and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence there is no
+appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the material Sunshine, we
+eat a substantial dinner, and like miserable guests we did budget up the
+reversions.
+
+   And now with sleep my muse hath eased her brain
+   I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.
+   That which we could not have, we freely spared,
+   And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.
+   We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)
+   And kindly every step entreats me stay,
+   The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,
+   One foot went forward, the other back would slip,
+   This weary day, when I had almost past,
+   I came unto Sir _Urian Leigh's_ at last,
+   At _Adlington_, near _Macclesfield_ he doth dwell,
+   Beloved, respected, and reputed well.
+   Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,
+   From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,
+   At his own table I did daily eat,
+   Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,
+   He would have given me gold or silver either,
+   But I, with many thanks, received neither,
+   And thus much without flattery I dare swear,
+   He is a knight beloved far and near,
+   First he's beloved of his God above,
+   (Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love)
+   Next with a wife and children he is blest,
+   Each having God's fear planted in their breast.
+   With fair demaines, revenue of good lands,
+   He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands,
+   And as he's happy in these outward things,
+   So from his inward mind continual springs
+   Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety,
+   Good hospitable works of charity,
+   Just in his actions, constant in his word,
+   And one that won his honour with the sword,
+   He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight,
+   But he knows when, and how to speak or fight,
+   I cannot flatter him, say what I can,
+   He's every way a complete gentleman.
+   I write not this, for what he did to me,
+   But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see,
+   Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame
+   But to make others imitate the same,
+   For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow,
+   I would his worthy worth more amply show,
+   But I already fear have been too bold,
+   And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.
+   Thanks to his sons and servants every one,
+   Both males and females all, excepting none.
+   To bear a letter he did me require,
+   Near _Manchester_, unto a good Esquire:
+   His kinsman _Edmund Prestwitch_, he ordained,
+   That I was at _Manchester_ entertained
+   Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,
+   For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass;
+   This gentleman not only gave harbour,
+   But in the morning sent me to his barber,
+   Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,
+   Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.
+   But in conclusion, when his work was ended,
+   His glass informed, my face was much amended.
+   And for the kindness he to me did show,
+   God grant his customers beards faster grow,
+   That though the time of year be dear or cheap,
+   From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.
+   Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail,
+   He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did fail,
+   Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt,
+   Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:
+   Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?
+   No, Master _Prestwitch_, this and much more did,
+   His friendship did command and freely gave
+   All before writ, and more than I durst crave.
+   But leaving him a little, I must tell,
+   How men of _Manchester_ did use me well,
+   Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack,
+   Roast, boiled, baked, too--too--much, white, claret, sack,
+   Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,
+   Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot,
+   That what they could do, all they thought too little,
+   Striving in love the traveller to whittle.
+   We went into the house of one _John Pinners_,
+   (A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners)
+   And there eight several sorts of ale we had,
+   All able to make one stark drunk or mad.
+   But I with courage bravely flinched not,
+   And gave the town leave to discharge the shot.
+   We had at one time set upon the table,
+   Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no Ęsop-fable:
+   Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt,
+   And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt,
+   With ale of rosemary, and betony,
+   And two ales more, or else I needs must lie.
+   But to conclude this drinking aley-tale,
+   We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale.
+   Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,
+   Did strive whose love should be expressed most,
+   And farther to declare their boundless loves,
+   They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves,
+   In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,
+   That in their praise I cannot write too much;
+   They merit more than I have here compiled,
+   I lodged at the Eagle and the Child,
+   Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman)
+   Did entertain me with respect, not common.
+   She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed,
+   And on my way she caused me be refreshed,
+   She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon,
+   Which by me much refused, at last was taken,
+   In troth she proved a mother unto me,
+   For which, I evermore will thankful be.
+   But when to mind these kindnesses I call,
+   Kind Master _Prestwitch_ author is of all,
+   And yet Sir _Urian Leigh's_ good commendation,
+   Was the main ground of this my recreation.
+   From both of them, there what I had, I had,
+   Or else my entertainment had been bad.
+   O all you worthy men of _Manchester_,
+   (True bred bloods of the County _Lancaster_)
+   When I forget what you to me have done,
+   Then let me headlong to confusion run.
+   To noble Master _Prestwitch_ I must give
+   Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,
+   His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,
+   He far surpassed all that went before,
+   A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,
+   To bring me quite through _Lancaster's_ large county,
+   Which I well know is fifty miles at large,
+   And he defrayed all the cost and charge.
+   This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,
+   That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.
+   So Mistress _Saracoal_, hostess kind,
+   And _Manchester_ with thanks I left behind.
+   The Wednesday being _July's_ twenty nine,
+   My journey I to _Preston_ did confine,
+   All the day long it rained but one shower,
+   Which from the morning to the evening did pour,
+   And I, before to _Preston_ I could get,
+   Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat,
+   But there I was supplied with fire and food,
+   And anything I wanted sweet and good.
+   There, at the Hind, kind Master _Hind_ mine host,
+   Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast,
+   There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,
+   And hardly got from thence on Saturday.
+   Unto my lodging often did repair,
+   Kind Master _Thomas Banister_, the Mayor,
+   Who is of worship, and of good respect,
+   And in his charge discreet and circumspect.
+   For I protest to God I never saw,
+   A town more wisely governed by the law.
+   They told me when my Sovereign there was last,
+   That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste.
+   It grieved them all, but when at last they found,
+   His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned.
+   He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds,
+   He did accept their kind intents, for deeds:
+   One man there was, that with his zeal too hot,
+   And furious haste, himself much overshot.
+   But what man is so foolish, that desires
+   To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars?
+   Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,
+   Because I saw how much they grieved were;
+   That any way, the least part of offence,
+   Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.
+   Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in _Preston_,
+   And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,
+   Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,
+   And on my way two miles, with me he went,
+   There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,
+   The under Sheriff of _Lancashire_ we met,
+   A gentleman that loved, and knew me well,
+   And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.
+   There, as if I had been a noted thief,
+   The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.
+   The Sheriff's authority did much prevail,
+   He sent me unto one that kept the jail.
+   Thus I perambuling, poor _John Taylor_,
+   Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor.
+   The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer,
+   Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear,
+   For the under-Sheriff kind Master _Covill_ named,
+   (A man for house-keeping renowed and famed)
+   Did cause the town of _Lancashire_ afford
+   Me welcome, as if I had been a lord.
+   And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,
+   His mate can scarce be found in all that county.
+   The extremes of miser, or of prodigal,
+   He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,
+   His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed,
+   That _Argus_ eyes could see no odds betwixt,
+   And sure the difference, (if there difference be)
+   Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.
+   Poor folks report, that for relieving them,
+   He and his wife, are each of them a gem;
+   At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid,
+   And what was to be paid, I know he paid:
+   If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,
+   Ungrateful me the world might justly note:
+   Had I declared all I did hear, and see,
+   For a great flatterer then I deemed should be,
+   Him and his wife, and modest daughter _Bess_,
+   With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless.
+   Two days a man of his, at his command,
+   Did guide me to the midst of _Westmoreland_,
+   And my conductor with a liberal fist,
+   To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed.
+   The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)
+   We in the dark, to a town called _Sedbergh_ came,
+   There Master _Borrowed_, my kind honest host,
+   Upon me did bestowed unasked cost.
+   The next day I held on my journey still,
+   Six miles unto a place called _Carling_ hill,
+   Where Master _Edmund Branthwaite_[10] doth reside,
+   Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.
+   Our entertainment, and our fare were such,
+   It might have satisfied our betters much;
+   Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,
+   And five miles on my way himself me brought,
+   At _Orton_ he, I, and my man did dine,
+   With Master _Corney_ a good true Divine,
+   And surely Master _Branthwaite_'s well beloved,
+   His firm integrity is much approved:
+   His good effects, do make him still affected
+   Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.
+   He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down,
+   Who lodged, and boarded me at _Penrith_ town,
+   And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,
+   That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;
+   There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)
+   With me a journey would to _Carlisle_ make:
+   But from that city, about two miles wide,
+   Good Sir _John Dalston_ lodged me and my guide.
+   Of all the gentlemen in _England's_ bounds
+   His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,
+   And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,
+   He's free from being covetous, or proud;
+   His son, Sir _George_, most affable, and kind,
+   His father's image, both in form and mind,
+   On Saturday to _Carlisle_ both did ride,
+   Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,
+   Where of good entertainment I found store,
+   From one that was the mayor the year before,
+   His name is Master _Adam Robinson_,
+   I the last English friendship with him won.
+   He (_gratis_) found a guide to bring me through,
+
+   [Sidenote: _My thanks
+   to Sir John
+   and Sir Geo.
+   Dalston, with
+   Sir Henry
+   Curwin._]
+
+   From _Carlisle_ to the city _Edinburgh_:
+   This was a help, that was a help alone,
+   Of all my helps inferior unto none.
+   Eight miles from _Carlisle_ runs a little river,
+   Which _England's_ bounds, from _Scotland's_ grounds doth sever.
+   Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get
+
+[Sidenote: _Over Esk I
+waded._]
+
+   On foot, I went, yet scarce my shoes did wet.
+   I being come to this long-looked-for land,
+   Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned;
+   And I saw nothing that could change my will,
+   But that I thought myself in _England_ still.
+   The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,
+   There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;
+   There I saw sky above, and earth below,
+   And as in _England_, there the sun did show;
+   The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale,
+
+[Sidenote: _The afore-named
+knights
+had given money
+to my
+guide, of which
+he left some
+part at every
+ale-house._]
+
+   And many a cottage yielded good Scottish ale;
+   This county (_Avondale_) in former times,
+   Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:
+   For _Cumberland_ and it, both kingdoms borders,
+   Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,
+   Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,
+   Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving;
+   And many times he that had wealth to-night,
+   Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:
+   Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted,
+   That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,
+   Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled,
+   The churches with the lowly ground were levelled;
+   All memorable monuments defaced,
+   All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.
+   That whoso then did in the borders dwell,
+   Lived little happier than those in hell.
+   But since the all-disposing God of heaven,
+   Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given,
+   Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered,
+   Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,
+   That now each subject may securely sleep,
+   His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep,
+   For now those crowns are both in one combined,
+   Those former borders, that each one confine,
+   Appears to me (as I do understand)
+   To be almost the centre of the land,
+   This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,
+   To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle.
+   Long may the instrumental cause survive.
+   From him and his, succession still derive
+   True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,
+   That these two kingdoms ever may be one;
+   This county of all _Scotland_ is most poor,
+   By reason of the outrages before,
+   Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow,
+   And as good grass as ever man did mow:
+   And as that day I twenty miles did pass,
+   I saw eleven hundred neat at grass,
+   By which may be conjectured at the least,
+   That there was sustenance for man and beast.
+   And in the kingdom I have truly scanned,
+   There's many worser parts, are better manned,
+   For in the time that thieving was in ure,
+   The gentles fled to places more secure.
+   And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain,
+   Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again.
+   The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty,
+   Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,
+   Twixt it and England, little odds I see,
+   They eat, and live, and strong and able be,
+   So much in verse, and now I'll change my style,
+   And seriously I'll write in prose awhile.
+
+To the purpose then: my first night's lodging in _Scotland_ was at a
+place called _Moffat_, which they say, is thirty miles from _Carlisle_,
+but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt
+_London_ and Saint _Albans_, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost as
+large measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an English
+gallon either of ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile
+(now and then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but
+howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest that
+ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found good
+ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was sweet and
+good, and might have served a far better man than myself, although
+myself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though
+it rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice,
+for I waded over a great river called _Esk_ in the morning, somewhat
+more than four miles distance from _Carlisle_ in _England_, and at night
+within two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the river of
+_Annan_ in _Scotland_, from which river the county of _Annandale_, hath
+its name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback,
+like the _George_ without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and
+left _Moffat_ behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one miles to a
+sorry village called _Blythe_, but I was blithe myself to come to any
+place of harbour or succour, for since I was born, I never was so weary,
+or so near being dead with extreme travel: I was foundered and
+refoundered of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that
+I must lodge without doors all night, or else in a poor house where the
+good wife lay in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant
+maid being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially
+adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I must
+either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got eggs and
+ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the
+floor by me, where in the night there were pigeons did very bountifully
+mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and having but fifteen
+miles to _Edinburgh_, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to
+hobble, and after to amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by
+degrees; all the way passing through a fertile country for corn and
+cattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday,
+being the thirteenth of August, and the day of _Clare_ the Virgin (the
+sign being in _Virgo_) the moon four days old, the wind at west, I came
+to take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous city of
+_Edinburgh_, which I entered like Pierce Penniless,oeee11] altogether
+moneyless, but I thank God, not friendless; for being there, for the
+time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I
+could get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure
+the price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to
+suffer him and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of
+litter, till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that
+would desperately disburse.
+
+Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with travel, and my
+mind attired with moody, muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation
+did devotely pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being
+willing to take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing,
+and circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his
+picture, but all my acquaintance was _Non est inventus_, (pardon me,
+reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by _Priscian's
+Pericranium_, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times.) At
+last I resolved, that the next gentleman that I meet withal, should be
+acquaintance whether he would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon
+a gentleman-like object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something
+through him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my
+gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way and
+made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving to
+encounter with any man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thus
+accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder gentleman, (meaning me) know
+me, that he looks so wistly on me? Truly sir, said my man, I think not,
+but my master is a stranger come from _London_, and would gladly meet
+some acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging and
+horse-meat. Presently the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition)
+overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a
+lodging, and caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we
+discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to him, as
+made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master _John Maxwell_)
+which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from out
+the walls of _London_: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself,
+the gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as my
+poor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.
+
+The Castle on a lofty rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, and
+founded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the foundation
+and walls are unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks
+invincible, no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable.
+In a word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in _Germany_, the
+_Netherlands_, _Spain_ and _England_, but they must all give place to
+this unconquered Castle, both for strength and situation.
+
+Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I noted
+especially a great piece of ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but
+it will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against
+any that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now
+dismounted.[12] And it is so great within, that it was told me that a
+child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept into it, lying
+on my back, and I am sure there was room enough and spare for a greater
+than myself.
+
+So leaving the Castle, as it is both defensive against my opposition,
+and magnific for lodging and receite,[13] I descended lower to the City,
+wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyes
+beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (which
+is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair port which they call
+the _Nether-Bow_) and from that port, the street which they call the
+_Kenny-gate_ is one quarter of a mile more, down to the King's Palace,
+called _Holy-rood-House_, the buildings on each side of the way being
+all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, and many
+bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's
+houses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, for in the
+High Street the merchants and tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen's
+mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
+lanes: the walls are eight or ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not
+built for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from antiquity to
+posterity, for many ages; there I found entertainment beyond my
+expectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such
+variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety.
+The worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there
+such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man had
+asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could not have made
+him a sober answer.
+
+I was at his Majesty's Palace, a stately and princely seat, wherein I
+saw a sumptuous chapel, most richly adorned with all appurtenances
+belonging to so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner
+court I saw the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a
+door aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which was
+written this inscription in Latin,
+
+     _Nobis hęc invicta miserunt, 106 proavi._
+
+I enquired what the English of it was? it was told
+me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be
+recorded.
+
+     _106, forefathers have left this to us unconquered._
+
+This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms or none
+in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many
+inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreign
+hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre the
+strength and policy of enemies, that royal crown and sceptre hath from
+one hundred and seven descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power
+of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now
+left peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the
+God of peace defend and govern.
+
+But once more, a word or two of _Edinburgh_, although I have scarcely
+given it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately
+buildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades
+me that they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well
+in that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the sea, and all
+navigable rivers being the chief means for the enriching of towns and
+cities, by the reason of traffic with foreign nations, with exportation,
+transportation, and receite of variety of merchandizing; so this city
+had it been built but one mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it
+had long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns
+and cities in _Europe_, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, state,
+and riches. It is said, that King _James_ the fifth (of famous memory)
+did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon them
+freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the
+seashore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their city,
+and build it in that more commodious place, but the citizens refused it;
+and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such
+another proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two days
+after the fair.
+
+Now have with you for _Leith_, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well
+entertained by Master _Barnard Lindsay_, one of the grooms of his
+Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because I
+brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass for
+current there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity[14] of my empty
+purse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, each
+being in value worth eleven shillings white money; and I was creditably
+informed, that within the compass of one year, there was shipped away
+from that only port of _Leith_, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats,
+and barley into _Spain_, _France_, and other foreign parts, and every
+bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from _Leith_
+only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of
+corn; besides some hath been shipped away from Saint _Andrews_, from
+_Dundee_, _Aberdeen_, _Dysart_, _Kirkaldy_, _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_,
+_Dunbar_, and other portable towns, which makes me to wonder that a
+kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so much
+bread-corn beyond the seas, and yet to have more than sufficient for
+themselves.
+
+So I having viewed the haven and town of _Leith_, took a passage boat to
+see the new wondrous Well,[15] to which many a one that is not well,
+comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that it
+had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or kill
+divers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoiding
+of the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with
+many other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God,
+having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done,
+but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant
+than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, and
+I did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as much
+as his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the
+stomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.
+
+I went two miles from it to a town called _Burntisland_, where I found
+many of my especial good friends, as Master _Robert Hay_, one of the
+Grooms of his Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master _David Drummond_, one of his
+Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master _James Acmootye_, one of the Grooms of the
+Privy Chamber, Captain _Murray_, Sir _Henry Witherington_ Knight,
+Captain _Tyrie_, and divers others: and there Master _Hay_, Master
+_Drummond_, and the good old Captain _Murray_ did very bountifully
+furnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those
+aforesaid gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange
+accident, which I think worth the relating.
+
+I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at sea in
+former times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of
+_Cadiz_; whereto an English gentleman replied, that he was the next good
+voyage after at the Islands: I answered him that I was there also. He
+demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens:
+why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my name
+is _Witherington_.
+
+Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is near
+two and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of
+you. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some
+remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him two
+or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will
+tell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotton; as our
+ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at anchor at the Isle of
+_Flores_ (one of the Isles of the _Azores_) there were some fourteen men
+and boys of our ship, that for novelty would go ashore, and see what
+fruit the island did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so
+being landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones,
+heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, musk-mellions,
+and potatoes; in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea
+was so extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to
+fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks;
+this continued five days, so that we were almost famished for want of
+food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of God
+I happened into a cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves
+of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in _England_, I having a
+valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty hours
+breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: and as I was
+about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put twelve of them
+into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the cave,
+leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a gentleman came to
+me, and said, "Friend, what are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For
+God's sake," said he, "give me some." With that, I put my hand into my
+breech, (being my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received
+with many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he would.
+
+I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir _Henry Witherington_ did
+acknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the loaf unto two and
+twenty years before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more
+privilege than mountains in meeting.
+
+In what great measure he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relate
+in this following discourse in my return through _Northumberland_: so
+leaving my man at the town of _Burntisland_, I told him, I would but go
+to _Stirling_, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourable
+friends the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ Knight, Lord of
+_Abercairney_, and that I would return within two days at the most: but
+it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and thirty days before I
+could get back again out of these noble men's company. The whole
+progress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay I cannot with
+gratefulness omit; and thus it was.
+
+A worthy gentleman named Master _John Fenton_, did bring me on my way
+six miles to _Dunfermline_, where I was well entertained, and lodged at
+Master _John Gibb_ his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's
+Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King hath: withal, I was
+well entertained there by Master _Crighton_ at his own house, who went
+with me, and shewed me the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely
+Mansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey,
+with fair gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which
+with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, were
+annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, which though
+it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been much
+larger. But I taking my leave of _Dunfermline_, would needs go and see
+the truly noble Knight Sir _George Bruce_, at a town called the
+_Culross_: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare,
+and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see his
+most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is a
+wonder; for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor any
+history that I have read, or any discourse that I have heard, did never
+see, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or be
+equivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I
+can say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his
+vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer
+of it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so
+accomplished a profit to the common-wealth shall be raked and smothered
+in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the description
+of it, although I amongst writers, am like he that worse may hold the
+candle.
+
+The mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land;
+but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please,
+and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it:
+but I for variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may
+object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being into the
+sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the mine? To which
+objection thus I answer, that at low water mark, the sea being ebbed
+away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (being
+mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of this great work build a
+round circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined together
+with glutinous or bituminous matter, so high withal that the sea at the
+highest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither
+dissolve the stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow
+the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did
+set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments fit
+for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into and through a
+rock. At last they found that which they expected, which was sea coal,
+they following the vein of the mine, did dig forward still: so that in
+the space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years, they have
+digged more than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at
+work below, an hundred of the greatest ships in _Britain_ man sail over
+their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut like an arch or
+a vault, all that great length, with many nooks and bye-ways: and it is
+so made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in and
+out. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through the
+want of employment would perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was
+come forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir _George Bruce_, I
+told him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had
+seen this mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have left
+the Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to have
+blown up the barges and wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates
+of our kingdom were. Moreover, I said, that I could afford to turn
+tapster at _London_, so that I had but
+          one quarter of a mile of his mine to make me
+             a cellar, to keep beer and bottled ale
+                 in. But leaving these jests in
+                   prose, I will relate a few
+                       verses that I made
+                         merrily of this
+                              mine.
+
+   I that have wasted, months, weeks, days, and hours
+   In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers,
+   Without all measure, measuring many paces,
+   And with my pen describing many places,
+   With few additions of mine own devising,
+   (Because I have a smack of _Coryatizing_[16])
+   Our _Mandeville_, _Primaleon_, _Don Quixote_,
+   Great _Amadis_, or _Huon_, travelled not
+   As I have done, or been where I have been,
+   Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;
+   Nor Britain's _Odcombe_ (_Zany_ brave _Ulysses_)
+   In all his ambling, saw the like as this is.
+   I was in (would I could describe it well)
+   A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,
+   And as by water I was wafted in,
+   I thought that I in _Charon's_ boat had been,
+   But being at the entrance landed thus,
+   Three men there (instead of _Cerberus_)
+   Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light
+   To guide us in that vault of endless night,
+   There young and old with glim'ring candles burning
+   Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,
+   Some in a hole with baskets and with bags,
+   Resembling furies, or infernal hags:
+   There one like _Tantalus_ feeding, and there one,
+   Like _Sisyphus_ he rolls the restless stone.
+   Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,
+   Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet[17]
+   For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,
+   There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell;
+   And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory,
+   Than _Rome_ doth by fantastic Purgatory.
+   A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep,
+   In deepness far more deep, than _Neptunes_ deep,
+   Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high)
+   Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky:
+   That had I died in that _Cimmerian_[18] room,
+   Four elements had covered o'er my tomb:
+   Thus farther than the bottom did I go,
+   (And many Englishmen have not done so;)
+   Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales,
+   And regiments of fish with fins and scales,
+   'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide,
+   And where great ships may at an anchor ride:
+   Thus in by sea, and out by land I past,
+   And took my leave of good Sir _George_ at last.
+
+The sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the mine, which by the
+industry of Sir _George Bruce_, is all conveyed to one well near the
+land; where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses
+and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty-six
+buckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen go down still to
+be filled, and eighteen ascend up to be emptied, which do empty
+themselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys the
+water into the sea again; by which means he saves his mine, which
+otherwise would be destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every
+week ninety or a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of
+_Scotland_, some he sends into _England_, and very much into _Germany_:
+all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthy
+endeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, and
+lastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to
+_Stirling_, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately
+house called _Allaway_, belonging to the Earl of _Mar_ which by reason
+that his honour was not there, I past by and went to _Stirling_, where I
+was entertained and lodged at one Master John _Archibalds_, where all my
+want was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I might
+have had there! he had me into the castle, which in few words I do
+compare to _Windsor_ for situation, much more than _Windsor_ in
+strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that his
+Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in
+_England_ or _Scotland_, except Westminster Hall which is now no
+dwelling hall for a prince, being long since metamorphosed into a house
+for the law and the profits.
+
+This goodly hall was built by King _James_ the fourth, that married King
+_Henry_ the Eight's sister, and after was slain at _Flodden field_; but
+it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, for
+length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle is built
+upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond _Edinburgh_ Castle in state and
+magnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of it
+are lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each room
+being so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber
+or lodging. There is also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables,
+and all other necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the
+majesty of a king.
+
+From _Stirling_ I rode to Saint _Johnstone_,[19] a fine town it is, but
+it is much decayed, by reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming
+to lodge there. There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the
+house his name being _Patrick Pitcairne_, where my entertainment was
+with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Mine
+host told me that the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ of
+_Abercairney_ were gone to the great hunting to the _Brae_ of _Mar_[20];
+but if I made haste I might perhaps find them at a town called
+_Brekin_, or _Brechin_, two and thirty miles from Saint _Johnstone_
+whereupon I took a guide to _Brechin_ the next day, but before I came,
+my lord was gone from thence four days.
+
+Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways over
+mountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I am
+sure I never saw any ways that might fellow them I did go through a
+country called _Glen Esk_, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep
+as the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yard
+broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into the
+bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen without
+recovery a good mile downright; but I thank God, at
+night I came to a lodging in the Laird of _Edzell's_ land, where I lay
+at an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English,
+but I supped and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was
+enforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musquitoes, a
+creature that hath six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon
+man's flesh, they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this
+house was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in
+_England_, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to me the _A._
+and the _Z._ the prologue and the epilogue, the first and the last that
+I had in all my travels from _Edinburgh_; and had not this Highland
+Irish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all
+_Scotland_ had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse upon me: but
+with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, and was never more
+troubled with them.
+
+The next day I travelled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount
+_Skene_, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; but
+when I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with
+cold, like Virginal's jacks;[21] and withal, a most familiar mist
+embraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way:
+withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my
+clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, in
+wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, the
+way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, that
+a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with four; for do what we
+could, we were four hours before we could pass it.
+
+Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting and
+alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brae of
+_Mar_, which is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that
+Shooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampstead Hill, Birdlip
+Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like a
+liver, or a gizard under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of
+their tops, or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount _Ben
+Aven_, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a night-cap:
+(for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the
+snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well as
+in winter.) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords
+_John Erskine_ Earl of Mar, _James Stuart_ Earl of Murray, _George
+Gordon_ Earl of Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, _James
+Erskine_ Earl of Buchan, and _John_ Lord _Erskine_, son and heir to the
+Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best
+assured and approved friend, Sir _William Murray_ Knight, of
+_Abercairney_, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and their
+followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if _Lycurgus_
+had been there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which
+is the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many of
+the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do come into
+these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform themselves to
+the habit of the Highland men, who for the most part speak nothing but
+Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the
+_Red-shanks_.[22] Their habit is shoes with but one sole apiece;
+stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of divers
+colours, which they call tartan: as for breeches, many of them, nor
+their forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that
+their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw,
+with a plaid about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours,
+of much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps on
+their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their neck; and
+thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows and forked
+arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, dirks, and Lochaber
+axes. With these arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for
+their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them,
+must not disdain to wear it; for if they do, then they will disdain to
+hunt, or willingly, to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto
+them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and
+the sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so many
+noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.
+
+My good Lord of _Mar_ having put me into that shape,[23] I rode with him
+from his house, where I saw the ruins of an old castle, called the
+castle of _Kindroghit_ [Castletown]. It was built by King _Malcolm
+Canmore_ (for a hunting house) who reigned in _Scotland_ when _Edward_
+the Confessor, _Harold_, and Norman _William_ reigned in _England_: I
+speak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts;
+for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house,
+corn field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses,
+wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never
+have seen a house again.[24]
+
+Thus the first day we travelled eight miles, where there small cottages
+built on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good
+Lord _Erskine_, he commanded that I should always be lodged in his
+lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many kettles
+and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great variety
+of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and stewed beef, mutton,
+goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, hens, capons, chickens,
+partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, capercailzies, and termagants
+[ptarmigans]; good ale, sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante)
+with most potent _Aquavitę_.
+
+All these, and more than these we had continually, in superfluous
+abundance, caught by Falconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my
+Lord's tenants and purveyors to victual our camp, which consisted of
+fourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is
+this: five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do
+disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles compass,
+they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, three, or four
+hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the Nobleman shall
+appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and gentlemen of their
+companies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up to
+their middles through bournes and rivers: and then: they being come to
+the place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid scouts which
+are called the Tinchel, do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says
+of a bad cook, so these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for
+besides their bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear
+now and then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom
+discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or
+thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round about
+us, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed close
+by the Tinchel, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then all
+the valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong
+Irish greyhounds, they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the
+herd of deer, so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in
+the space of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are
+disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty miles, and
+more than enough left for us to make merry withal at our rendezvous. I
+liked the sport so well, that I made these two sonnets following.
+
+   Why should I waste invention to indite,
+   _Ovidian_ fictions, or Olympian games?
+   My misty Muse enlightened with more light,
+   To a more noble pitch her aim she frames.
+   I must relate to my great Master JAMES,
+   The Caledonian annual peaceful war;
+   How noble minds do eternize their fames,
+   By martial meeting in the Brae of _Mar_:
+   How thousand gallant spirits came near and far,
+   With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns,
+   That all the troop to men of judgment, are
+   The God of Wars great never conquered sons,
+   The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts,
+   And last the victor on the vanquished feasts.
+   If sport like this can on the mountains be,
+   Where _Phoebus_ flames can never melt the snow;
+   Then let who list delight in vales below,
+   Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me:
+   What braver object can man's eyesight see,
+   Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights,
+   As if they were prepared for sundry fights,
+   Yet all in sweet society agree?
+   Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,
+   'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills,
+   Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs,
+   Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills.
+   Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat,
+   The Highland games and minds, are high and great.
+
+Being come to our lodgings, there was such baking, boiling, roasting,
+and stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil
+in his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an
+indifferent May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of _Mar_ will give
+any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that are as
+good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they were in any
+place near the Thames, or any other portable river) the best earldom in
+England or Scotland either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing
+there, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world)
+for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, barks, and
+water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years.
+
+This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands do
+know that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is
+the pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in
+such rocky mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be
+passable, either with boat, horse, or cart.
+
+Thus having spent certain days in hunting in the Brae of _Mar_, we went
+to the next county called _Badenoch_, belonging to the Earl of _Enzie_,
+where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after four
+or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and took
+our journey toward a strong house of the Earl's, called _Ruthven_ in
+_Badenoch_, where my Lord of _Enzie_ and his noble Countess (being
+daughter to the Earl of _Argyle_) did give us most noble welcome three
+days.
+
+From thence we went to a place called _Balloch Castle_,[25] a fair and
+stately house, a worthy gentleman being the owner of it, called the
+Laird of _Grant_; his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended
+being sister to the right Honourable Earl of _Athol_, and to Sir
+_Patrick Murray_ Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardly
+plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: so that our
+cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could afford
+us. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knights
+and Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every meal
+four long tables furnished with all varieties: our first and second
+course being three score dishes at one board; and after that always a
+banquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to _Edinburgh_
+I think I had there drunk my last.
+
+The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to _Tarnaway_, a goodly
+house of the Earl of _Murrays_,[26] where that Right Honourable Lord and
+his Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all
+variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed the
+County of _Murray_ is the most pleasantest and plentiful country in all
+_Scotland_; being plain land, that a coach may be driven more than four
+and thirty miles one way in it, alongst by the sea-coast.
+
+From thence I went to _Elgin_ in _Murray_,[27] an ancient City, where
+there stood a fair and beautiful church with three steeples, the walls
+of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, and
+many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy personages all
+broken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bare rule, and
+Knox knocked down churches.
+
+From _Elgin_ we went to the Bishop of _Murray_ his house which is called
+_Spiny_, or _Spinay_: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of
+_Douglas_, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour of
+himself and his guests.
+
+From thence we departed to the Lord Marquess of _Huntlys_ to a sumptuous
+house of his, named the _Bog of Geethe_, where our entertainment was
+like himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days
+stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords to
+depart towards _Edinburgh_: the Noble Marquess, the Earl of _Mar_,
+_Murray_, _Enzie_, _Buchan_, and the Lord _Erskine_; all these, I thank
+them, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey.
+
+So after five and thirty days hunting and travel I returning, past by
+another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called _Stroboggy_, and
+so over _Carny_ mount to _Brechin_, where a wench that was born deaf and
+dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she opening
+the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had I been a
+_Sardanapalus_, or a _Heliogabulus_, I think that either the great
+travel over the mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty could
+never have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was as
+sweet as sugar-candian,[28] being very well shouldered beneath the
+waste; and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed
+her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But
+howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of my
+sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knew
+who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; and
+for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair.
+
+Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins as at _Brechin_, I
+departed from thence to a town called _Forfor_; and from thence to
+_Dundee_, and so to _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, and so to _Edinburgh_,
+where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises, which
+I received in my travel in the Highland mountainous hunting. Great
+welcome I had showed me all my stay at _Edinburgh_, by many worthy
+gentlemen, namely, old Master _George Todrigg_, Master _Henry
+Livingston_, Master _James Henderson_, Master _John Maxwell_, and a
+number of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may
+be imagined.
+
+Now the day before I came from _Edinburgh_, I went to _Leith_, where I
+found my long approved and assured good friend Master _Benjamin Jonson_,
+at one Master _John Stuarts_ house; I thank him for his great kindness
+towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold of
+two and twenty shillings[29] to drink his health in _England_. And
+withal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends:
+So with a friendly farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see
+him in a worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that
+know his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much respective
+love he is worthily entertained.
+
+So leaving _Leith_ I returned to _Edinburgh_, and within the port or
+gate, called the _Nether-Bow_, I discharged my pockets of all the money
+I had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my first
+coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came moneyless out
+of it again; having in company to convey me out, certain gentlemen,
+amongst the which Master _James Acherson_, Laird of _Gasford_, a
+gentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainment
+he and his good wife did welcome me.
+
+On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called
+_Adam_, to Master _John Acmootye_ his house, one of the Grooms of his
+Majesty's Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master
+_Alexander_, and Master _James Acmootye_, I found both cheer and
+welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any former place.
+
+Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole and
+Goose (_sic_), a most delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in
+a little rock called the _Bass_, which stands two miles into the sea. It
+is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat oysters,
+standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, unsanctified without
+grace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or three
+good rouses[30] of sherry or canary sack. The Lord or owner of the
+_Bass_ doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those geese;
+the _Bass_ itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a
+mile in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one
+small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in it; and
+on the top of it a well of pure fresh water.
+
+From _Adam_, Master _John_ and Master _James Acmootye_ went to the town
+of _Dunbar_ with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed,
+and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master _James Baylies_
+house I took leave, and Master _James Acmootye_ coming for _England_,
+said, that if I would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want
+betwixt that place and _London_. Now I having no money nor means for
+travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last my want
+persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's undeserved
+courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called _Cockburnspath_,
+where we lodged at an inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in any
+of his Majesty's Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master
+_William Arnot_ and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their
+bountiful entertainment of guests, which is this:
+
+Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at their
+house, the men shall have flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all
+variety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall
+want neither hay or provender: and at the morning at their departure the
+reckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his
+chief delight being only to give strangers entertainment _gratis_: and I
+am sure, that in _Scotland_ beyond _Edinburgh_, I have been at houses
+like castles for building; the master of the house his beaver being his
+blue bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the flax that
+grows on his own ground, and of his wife's, daughters', or servants'
+spinning; that hath his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his
+own sheep's backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer,
+draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn
+bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains
+thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day relieving
+three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, can
+give noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or six
+earls and lords, besides knights, gentlemen and their followers, if they
+be three or four hundred men, and horse of them, where they shall not
+only feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man that
+desires to know nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose
+greatest cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and
+hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless fashions,
+he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred acres on his
+back at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered with
+golden garters, and manacled with artificial roses, whose weight
+(sometime) is the last reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these
+worthy housekeepers there are in _Scotland_, amongst some of them I was
+entertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaid
+observations.
+
+So leaving _Cockburnspath_, we rode to _Berwick_, where the worthy old
+Soldier and ancient Knight, Sir _William Bowyer_, made me welcome, but
+contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master _James Acmootye_
+paid all charges: but at _Berwick_ there was a grievous chance happened,
+which I think not fit the relation to be omitted.
+
+In the river of _Tweed_, which runs by _Berwick_, are taken by fishermen
+that dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many
+households and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but
+(how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy
+whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long amongst
+them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday,
+the salmons played in such great abundance in the river, that some of
+the fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats and
+nets and fished, and caught near three hundred salmons; but from that
+time until Michaelmas day that I was there, which was nine weeks, and
+heard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserable
+lamentations, they had not seen one salmon in the river; and some of
+them were in despair that they should never see any more there;
+affirming it to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation of the
+Sabbath.
+
+The thirtieth of September we rode from _Berwick_ to _Belford_ from
+_Belford_ to _Alnwick_, the next day from _Alnwick_ to _Newcastle_,
+where I found the noble Knight, Sir _Henry Witherington_; who, because I
+would have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf
+of bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the Island
+of _Flores_, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at
+_Newcastle_ a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for
+_London_, namely, Master _Robert Hay_, and Master _David Drummond_,
+where I was welcomed at Master _Nicholas Tempests_ house. From
+_Newcastle_ I rode with those gentlemen to _Durham_, to _Darlington_, to
+_Northallerton_, and to _Topcliffe_ in _Yorkshire_, where I took my
+leave of them, and would needs try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and
+see the city of _York_, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good
+friend, Master Doctor _Hudson_ one of his Majesty's chaplains, who went
+with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the most
+admirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed[31] chapter house.
+
+From _York_ I rode to _Doncaster_, where my horses were well fed at the
+Bear, but myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir _Robert Anstruther_
+at his father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir _Robert Swifts_ house, he
+being then High Sheriff of _Yorkshire_, where with their good Ladies,
+and the right Honourable the Lord _Sanquhar_, I was stayed two nights
+and one day, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ (I thank him) not only paying for
+my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a letter to
+_Newark_ upon _Trent_, twenty eight miles in my way, where Master
+_George Atkinson_ mine host made me as welcome, as if I had been a
+French Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid as
+much; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir _Robert
+Anstruther_.
+
+So leaving _Newark_, with another gentleman that overtook me, we came at
+night to _Stamford_, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead)
+where I delivered a letter from the Lord _Sanquhar_; which caused Master
+_Bates_ and his wife, being the master and mistress of the house, to
+make me and the gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing.
+
+From _Stamford_ the next day we rode to _Huntington_, where we lodged at
+the Postmaster's house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is _Riggs_.
+He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless
+progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with us, and
+very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar, and four
+jugs of beer. He did drink and begin healths like a horse-leech and
+swallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or
+nine pound of sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank
+post, striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or
+to make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like
+a jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible
+shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for his
+superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.
+
+But leaving him, I left _Huntington_, and rode on the Sunday to
+_Puckeridge_, where Master _Holland_ at the Falcon, (mine old
+acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, my man,
+and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, not a
+penny of money.
+
+The next day I came to _London_, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I
+went to a house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to
+_Islington_, to the sign of the Maidenhead,[32] staying till Wednesday,
+that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesday
+was my first coming; where with all love I was entertained with much
+good cheer: and after supper we had a play of the Life and Death of _Guy
+of Warwick_,[33] played by the Right Honourable the Earl of _Derby_ his
+men. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I
+came home to my house in _London_.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS AND OTHERS.
+
+
+   Thus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask,
+   By any course, direct or indirectly:
+   But in each tittle I performed my task,
+   According to my bill most circumspectly.
+   I vow to God, I have done SCOTLAND wrong,
+   (And (justly) against me it may bring an action)
+   I have not given it that right which doth belong,
+   For which I am half guilty of detraction:
+   Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,
+   Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,
+   And so my name I should in question draw,
+   Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter:
+   Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen,
+   That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap,
+   In such abundant food for beasts and men;
+   That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap.
+   Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;
+   And what I do believe, I know is true:
+   And what is true unto your hands I give,
+   That what I give, may be believed of you.
+   But as for him that says I lie or dote,
+   I do return, and turn the lie in's throat.
+     Thus gentlemen, amongst you take my ware,
+     You share my thanks, and I your moneys share.
+
+        _Yours in all observance and gratefulness,
+
+              ever to be commanded_,
+
+                   JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+[Decoration]
+
+
+[Footnote 1: PROVANT.--Provender; provision.]
+
+[Footnote 2: FEGARY.--A vagary.]
+
+[Footnote 3: TRUNDLE.--_i.e._, John Trundle of the sign of _No-body_
+(see note page 6).]
+
+[Footnote 4: It is reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom
+of "Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue--or, _No-body_ would have
+taken the oath.]
+
+[Footnote 5: NAMED LEAN AND FEN.--Some jest is intended here on the
+Host's name.--Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of A. FENNEL.]
+
+[Footnote 6: NO-BODY was the singular sign of John Trundle, a
+ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who seems to
+have accompanied our author as far as _Whetstone_ on his "Penniless
+Pilgrimage"--and, certainly up to this point a very "wet" one!] In one
+of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is introduced, "attyred in a payre of
+Breeches, which were made to come up to his neck, with his armes out at
+his pockets and cap drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for
+John Trundle and are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of
+No-Body." A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at
+Britwell House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a
+woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a torn
+money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken pots, pans,
+bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. Above him is a scroll
+in black-letter:--
+
+"Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame."
+
+The ballad commences as follows:--
+
+   "Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe,
+   So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe;
+           But nowe, beholde, here I am,
+           Whom all the worlde doeth diffame;
+           Long have they also scorned me,
+           And locked my mouthe for speking free.
+           As many a Godly man they have so served
+           Which unto them God's truth hath shewed;
+           Of such they have burned and hanged some.
+           That unto their ydolatrye wold not come:
+           The Ladye Truthe they have locked in cage,
+           Saying of her Nobodye had knowledge.
+           For as much nowe as they name Nobodye
+           I thinke verilye they speke of me:
+           Whereffore to answere I nowe beginne--
+           The locke of my mouthe is opened with ginne,
+           Wrought by no man, but by God's grace,
+           Unto whom be prayse in every place," &c.
+
+Larwood and Hotten's _History of Signboards_.]
+
+[Footnote 7: PULSE.--All sorts of leguminous seeds.]
+
+[Footnote 8: See Dedication to _The Scourge of Baseness_.]
+
+[Footnote 9: MASTER DOCTOR HOLLAND.--The once well-known Philemon
+Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age," published
+translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History," 1601; Camden's
+"Britannica," &c. He is said to have used in translation more paper and
+fewer pens than any other writer before or since, and who "would not let
+Suetonius be Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.]
+
+[Footnote 10: EDMUND BRANTHWAITE.--Robert Branthwaite, William
+Branthwaite _Cant._, and "Thy assured friend" R. B., have each written
+Commendatory Verses to ALL THE WORKS OF JOHN TAYLOR. London 1630. And
+Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets," has the
+following:--"One might have hoped in these parts for a happy meeting
+between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal memory; indeed it is
+likely that the Water-Poet and the Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and
+that the latter may have introduced him to his connections hereabout,
+Branthwaite being the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother
+having married a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."]
+
+[Footnote 11: PIERCE PENNILESS, by Thomas Nash. London, 1592.]
+
+[Footnote 12: This "ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is
+historically known as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."]
+
+[Footnote 13: RECEITE.--A receptacle.]
+
+[Footnote 14: VAUSTITY.--Emptiness.]
+
+[Footnote 15: _See_ Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb.
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 16: CORYATIZING.--Thomas Coryate, an English traveller, who
+called himself the "Odcombian leg-stretcher." He was the son of the
+rector of Odcombe, and in 1611 published an account of his travels on
+the Continent with the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily
+gobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia,
+commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some
+parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the
+hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed to
+the nourishment of the travelling members of this Kingdome, &c. London,
+printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611." Taylor had an especial grudge
+against Coryat, for having had influence enough to procure his "Laugh
+and be Fat"--directed against the traveller--to be burned; and that he
+never failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many
+pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities," even after
+his death.]
+
+[Footnote 17: TOPHET.--The Hebrew name for _Hell_.]
+
+[Footnote 18: CIMMERIAN.--Pertaining to the Cimmerii, or their country;
+extremely and perpetually dark. The Cimmerii were an ancient people of
+the land now called the Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy
+fogs, was fabled to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient
+poets also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near Lake
+Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to visit.]
+
+[Footnote 19: PERTH.]
+
+[Footnote 20: BRAEMAR.]
+
+[Footnote 21: VIRGINAL JACK.--A keyed instrument resembling a spinet.]
+
+[Footnote 22: RED-SHANKS.--A contemptuous appellation for Scottish Highland
+clansmen and native Irish, with reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and
+"As lively as a _Red-Shank_" is still a proverbial saying:--"And we came into
+Ireland, where they would have landed in the north parts. But I would
+not, because there the inhabitants were all _Red-shanks_."--_Sir Walter
+Raleigh's_ Speech on the Scaffold.]
+
+[Footnote 23: PUT ME INTO THAT SHAPE.--That is, invested him in Highland
+attire.]
+
+[Footnote 24: "Probably the district around the skirts of Ben
+Muicdui."--_Chambers'_ Domestic Annals of Scotland.]
+
+[Footnote 25: BALLOCH CASTLE.--Now called Castle-Grant.]
+
+[Footnote 26: MORAY.]
+
+[Footnote 27: MORAYLAND.]
+
+[Footnote 28: SUGAR-CANDIAN.--_i.e._, Sugar-candy.]
+
+[Footnote 29: A PIECE OF GOLD OF TWO-AND-TWENTY SHILLINGS.--"This was a
+considerable present; but Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his
+acquaintance. All his pleasures were social; and while health and
+fortune smiled upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents
+to those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's
+concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to Drummond
+is considered:--but there is one _evil that walks_, which keener eyes
+than John's have often failed to discover.--I have only to add, in
+justice to this honest man (Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the
+subject of it. He paid the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's
+memory:--the verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better
+to give."--Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's Ben
+Jonson's Works, p. xli.
+
+"In the summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben
+Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives for a
+journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be curiosity regarding
+a country from which he knew that his family was derived, his
+grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of Annandale. He had many
+friends too, particularly among the connections of the Lennox family,
+whom he might be glad to see at their own houses. Among those with whom
+he had amicable intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the
+prime of life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of
+Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is probable that
+Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and indulged together in
+the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar scenes. Indeed, there is a
+prevalent belief in Scotland that it was mainly to see Drummond at
+Hawthornden that Jonson came so far from home, and certain it is, from
+Drummond's report of his '_Conversations_,' that he designed 'to write a
+Fisher or Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play--and make the stage of it on the
+Lomond Lake--he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot Pilgrimage
+to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in one who found so
+much to admire where so little had been known, he spoke of entitling 'A
+DISCOVERY.' Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he
+called Edinburgh--
+
+     'The Heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye,'
+
+has not been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work
+contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's
+letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be regretted that
+we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by so vigorous a pen as
+that of the author of _Sejanual_"--_Chambers'_ Domestic
+Annals of Scotland, vol. 1.
+
+Whether Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and
+prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would now be
+difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks in his
+Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c.," he had been accused by
+the critics that he "_did undergo this project, either in malice, or
+mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson_." It is quite certain that Taylor
+lost no time in getting his "Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the
+author" immediately on his return to London on the fifteenth of October
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 30: ROUSE.--A full glass, a bumper.]
+
+[Footnote 31: UNFELLOWED.--_i.e._, not matched.]
+
+[Footnote 32: TO ISLINGTON TO THE SIGN OF THE MAINDENHEAD.--This then
+roadside Public-house, we are informed from recent enquiries, was
+situate at the corner of Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's
+Cross, from a statue of George IV.--a most execrable performance taken
+down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named the
+Victoria, while Maiden Lane--an ancient way leading from Battle Bridge
+to Highgate Hill--is known now as York Road.]
+
+[Footnote 33: GUY OF WARWICK.--There are several versions and editions of
+this work. In the book of the Stationers' Company, John Trundle--he at
+the sign of NO-BODY--on the 15th of January, 1619, entered "a play,
+called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of Warwick, written by John Day
+and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.--"Well,
+if he read this with patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master
+Trundle yonder, the rest of my mortality."--_Ben Jonson's_ Every Man in
+his Humour, act i. sc. 2.]
+
+
+Corrections Made by Transcriber
+
+     Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his."
+     Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten."
+     Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes."
+     Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be."
+     Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.
+
+
+
+
+
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diff --git a/28108-8.zip b/28108-8.zip
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content=
+"text/html; charset=us-ascii" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE, OR
+The Money-lesse perambulation, of John Taylor, Alias the Kings
+Majesties Water-Poet.</title>
+
+<style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
+    p {  margin-top: .75em;
+         text-align: justify;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
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+         text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+         clear: both;
+         }
+    hr { width: 33%;
+   margin-top: 2em;
+   margin-bottom: 2em;
+         margin-left: auto;
+         margin-right: auto;
+         clear: both;
+       }
+
+    table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;}
+
+    body{margin-left: 20%;
+         margin-right: 20%;
+        }
+
+    .pagenum  { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+            /*  visibility: hidden;  */
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+                text-align: right;
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+               float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em;
+               font-size: smaller; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;}
+
+    .center   {text-align: center;}
+    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+    .bantq    {font-family: "Old English Text MT;"}
+    .u        {text-decoration: underline;}
+
+    .footnotes        {background-color: #FFFE8D; border: dashed 1px;}
+    .footnote         {margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+    .footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 70%; text-align: right;}
+    .fnanchor         {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;}
+
+    .tr       {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-top: 5%; margin-bottom: 5%;
+                          padding: 1em; background-color: #C0FFFF; color: black; border: dotted black 1px;} /* transcriber's notes */
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+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage
+       Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor
+
+Author: John Taylor
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="tr">
+<h3>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h3>
+<p>1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes
+missing or missplaced in the original.
+These have been made consistent with modern convention.</p>
+<p>2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been
+added.</p>
+<p>3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end
+of the book.</p>
+<p>4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at
+the end of the book.</p></div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg
+i]</a></span></p>
+<h3 style="height: 0pt;">THE</h3>
+<h1 style="height: 14pt;">PENNYLES</h1>
+<h2 style="height: 12pt;">PILGRIMAGE,</h2>
+<h3 style="height: 4pt;">OR</h3>
+<h3 style="height: 4pt;">The Money-lesse perambulation,</h3>
+<h4>of <span class="smcap">John Taylor</span>, <i>Alias</i><br />
+the Kings Majesties<br />
+<i>Water-Poet</i>.</h4>
+<h3 style="height: 4pt; letter-spacing: 0.3em">HOW HE TRAVAILED
+ON FOOT</h3>
+<h4>from <i>London</i> to <i>Edenborough</i> in <i>Scotland</i>,
+not carrying<br />
+any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing,<br />
+or Asking Meate, drinke or<br />
+Lodging.</h4>
+<h3 style="height: 4pt; word-spacing: 0.4em"><i>With his
+Description of his Entertainment</i></h3>
+<h4>in all places of his Journey, and a true Report<br />
+of the unmatchable Hunting in the <i>Brea</i><br />
+of <i>Marre</i> and <i>Badenoch</i> in<br />
+<i>Scotland</i>.</h4>
+<h4>With other Observations, some serious and<br />
+worthy of Memory, and some merry<br />
+and not hurtfull to be Remembred.</h4>
+<h4><i>Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)<br />
+all is true.</i></h4>
+<h3 style="height: 2pt; letter-spacing: 0.3em">LONDON</h3>
+<h4>Printed by <i>Edw: Allde</i>, at the charges of the<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg
+ii]</a></span>Author. 1618</h4>
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<h4><span class="smcap">To the Truly<br />
+Noble and Right<br />
+Honorable Lord</span> GEORGE MARQUIS<br />
+of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of<br />
+Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's<br />
+Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master<br />
+of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen<br />
+of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight<br />
+of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and<br />
+one of his Majesty's most Honorable<br />
+Privy Council of both the<br />
+Kingdoms of England<br />
+and Scotland.<br /></h4>
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="R" src=
+"images/tay_page_02.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>ight Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I
+was entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords,
+Worshipful Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in
+England and Scotland. So now your Lordship's inclination hath
+incited, or invited my poor muse to shelter herself under the
+shadow of your honorable patronage, not that there is any worth
+at all in my sterile invention, but in all humility I acknowledge
+that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that is able to make
+this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.</p>
+<p style="height: 8pt; margin-left: 11.5em;">Your Honors,</p>
+<p style="height: 8pt; margin-left: 13.5em;">In all
+observance,</p>
+<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;">JOHN TAYLOR. <span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg
+iii]</a></span></p>
+<table summary="deco" align="center" style=
+"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src=
+"images/tay_page_03a.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2>TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS,<br />
+BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER,<br />
+MY GENERAL SALUTATION.</h2>
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="R" src=
+"images/tay_page_02.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p><i>eader, these Travels of mine into</i> Scotland, <i>were not
+undertaken, neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but
+only devised by myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends
+both in this Kingdom of</i> England, <i>and that of</i> Scotland,
+<i>and because I would be an eye-witness of divers things which I
+had heard of that Country; and whereas many shallow-brained
+Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by others,
+or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage
+of Master</i> Benjamin Jonson, <i>I vow by the faith of a
+Christian, that their imaginations are all wide, for he is a
+gentleman, to whom I am so much obliged for many undeserved
+courtesies that I have received from him, and from others by his
+favour, that I durst never to be so impudent or ungrateful, as
+either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own instigation,
+to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span> much
+goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if
+you expect</i></p>
+<p style="margin-left: 6.5em;">That I should write of cities'
+situations,<br />
+Or that of countries I should make relations:<br />
+Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills,<br />
+Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills,<br />
+Of shires, and piers, and memorable things,<br />
+Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings,<br />
+I touch not those, they not belong to me;<br />
+But if such things as these you long to see,<br />
+Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read<br />
+The learned <i>Camden</i>, or laborious <i>Speed</i>.</p>
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em; height: 8pt;"><i>And so God speed
+you and me, whilst I rest</i></p>
+<p style="margin-left: 12.5em; height: 8pt;"><i>Yours in all
+thankfulness:</i></p>
+<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;"><span class="smcap">John
+Taylor.</span></p>
+<table summary="deco" align="center" style=
+"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src=
+"images/tay_page_04.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg
+1]</a></span>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<table summary="deco" align="center" style=
+"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src=
+"images/tay_page_05a.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="TAYLORS" id="TAYLORS"></a>TAYLOR'S<br />
+PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.</h2>
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-left: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="L" src=
+"images/tay_page_05b.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+ist Lordlings, list (if you have
+lust to list)<br />
+I write not here a tale of had I wist:<br />
+But you shall hear of travels, and relations,<br />
+Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.<br />
+And he that not believes what here is writ,<br />
+Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.<br />
+The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)<br />
+One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen,<br />
+And to relate all things in order duly,<br />
+'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July,<br />
+Saint <i>Revels</i> day, the almanack will tell ye<br />
+The sign in <i>Virgo</i> was, or near the belly:<br />
+The moon full three days old, the wind full south;<br />
+At these times I began this trick of youth.<br />
+I speak not of the tide, for understand,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg
+2]</a></span>My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land,<br />
+Though in the morning I began to go<br />
+Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,<br />
+That make what haste I could, the sun was set,<br />
+E're from the gates of <i>London</i> I could get.<br />
+At last I took my latest leave thus late,<br />
+At the Bell Inn, that's <i>extra Aldersgate</i>.<br />
+There stood a horse that my provant<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id=
+"FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> should carry,<br />
+From that place to the end of my fegary,<a name="FNanchor_2_2"
+id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class=
+"fnanchor">[2]</a><br />
+My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag,<br />
+That with good understanding bore my bag:<br />
+And of good carriage he himself did show,<br />
+These things are excellent in a beast you know.<br />
+There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees)<br />
+I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese<br />
+With roses, barberries, of each conserves,<br />
+And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves:<br />
+And I entreat you take these words for no-lies,<br />
+I had good <i>Aqua vit&aelig;, Rosa</i> so-lies:<br />
+With sweet <i>Ambrosia</i>, (the gods' own drink)<br />
+Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think,<br />
+Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,<br />
+That could a daring saucy stomach foil.<br />
+This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,<br />
+Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine,<br />
+I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,<br />
+And went that night as far as <i>Islington</i>.<br />
+There did I find (I dare affirm it bold)<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg
+3]</a></span>A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old,<br />
+But surely it was painted, like a whore,<br />
+And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door,<br />
+Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,<br />
+May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.<br />
+There did my loving friendly host begin<br />
+To entertain me freely to his inn:<br />
+And there my friends, and good associates,<br />
+Each one to mirth himself accommodates.<br />
+<i>At Well-head</i> both for welcome, and for cheer,<br />
+Having a good <i>New ton</i>, of good stale beer:<br />
+There did we <i>Trundle</i>[3] down health, after health,<br />
+(Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)<br />
+Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk,<br />
+And only <i>No-body</i><a name="FNanchor_3_3" id=
+"FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class=
+"fnanchor">[3]</a> was three parts drunk.<br />
+The morrow next, Wednesday Saint <i>Swithin's</i> day,<br />
+From ancient <i>Islington</i> I took my way.<br />
+At <i>Holywell</i> I was enforced carouse,<br />
+Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House.<br />
+But there's a help to make amends for all,<br />
+That though the ale be great, the pots be small.<br />
+At <i>Highgate</i> Hill to a strange house I went,<br />
+And saw the people were to eating bent,<br />
+In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought,<br />
+But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.<br />
+I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant,<br />
+But I did practise thus before my want;<br />
+Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg
+4]</a></span>Before the day he'll often exercise.<br />
+So I began to put in use, at first<br />
+These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst.<br />
+Close to the Gate,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id=
+"FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class=
+"fnanchor">[4]</a> there dwelt a worthy man,<br />
+That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can,<br />
+Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil,<br />
+Do call him <i>Robin Pluto</i>, or the devil.<br />
+But finding him a devil, freely hearted,<br />
+With friendly farewells I took leave and parted,<br />
+And as alongst I did my journey take,<br />
+I drank at <i>Broom's well</i>, for pure fashion's sake,<br />
+Two miles I travelled then without a bait,<br />
+The Saracen's Head at <i>Whetstone</i> entering straight,<br />
+I found an host, that might lead an host of men,<br />
+Exceeding fat, yet named <i>Lean</i>, and <i>Fen</i>.<a name=
+"FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5"
+class="fnanchor">[5]</a><br />
+And though we make small reckoning of him here,<br />
+He's known to be a very great man there.<br />
+There I took leave of all my company,<br />
+Bade all farewell, yet spake to <i>No-body</i>.<br />
+Good reader think not strange, what I compile,<br />
+For <i>No-body</i> was with me all this while.<br />
+And <i>No-body</i> did drink, and, wink, and scink,<br />
+And on occasion freely spent his chink.<br />
+If anyone desire to know the man,<br />
+Walk, stumble, <i>Trundle</i>, but in <i>Barbican</i>.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg
+5]</a></span>There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd,<br />
+And in that street kind <i>No-body</i><a name="FNanchor_6_6" id=
+"FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class=
+"fnanchor">[6]</a> is hanged.<br />
+But leaving him unto his matchless fame,<br />
+I to St. <i>Albans</i> in the evening came,<br />
+Where Master <i>Taylor</i>, at the Saracen's Head,<br />
+Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg
+6]</a></span>The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all,<br />
+Saved me a labour, that I need not call,<br />
+The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round,<br />
+And in a word great kindness there I found,<br />
+For which both to my cousin, and his men,<br />
+I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.<br />
+Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,<br />
+And then I went plain <i>Dunstable</i> highway.<br />
+My very heart with drought methought did shrink,<br />
+I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.<br />
+Which made me call to mind, that instant time,<br />
+That drunkenness was a most sinful crime.<br />
+When <i>Puddle-hill</i> I footed down, and past<br />
+A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last.<br />
+There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread,<br />
+We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed.<br />
+And whilst two hours we there did take our ease,<br />
+My nag made shift to mump green pulse<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id=
+"FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class=
+"fnanchor">[7]</a> and peas.<br />
+Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,<br />
+And drank the water of a brook hard by.<br />
+Away toward <i>Hockley</i> in the Hole, we make,<br />
+When straight a horseman did me overtake,<br />
+Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin,<br />
+I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin,<br />
+I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink,<br />
+And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.<br />
+Away rode he, but like an honest man,<br />
+I found at <i>Hockley</i> standing at the Swan,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg
+7]</a></span>A formal tapster, with a jug and glass,<br />
+Who did arrest me: I most willing was<br />
+To try the action, and straight put in bail,<br />
+My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale,<br />
+To quit this kindness, I most willing am,<br />
+The man that paid for all, his name is <i>Dam</i>,<br />
+At the Green Dragon, against <i>Grays-Inn</i> gate,<br />
+He lives in good repute, and honest state.<br />
+I forward went in this my roving race,<br />
+To <i>Stony Stratford</i> I toward night did pace,<br />
+My mind was fixed through the town to pass,<br />
+To find some lodging in the hay or grass,<br />
+But at the <i>Queen's Arms</i>, from the window there,<br />
+A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,<br />
+Call <i>Taylor, Taylor</i>, and be hanged come hither,<br />
+I looked for small entreaty and went thither,<br />
+There were some friends, which I was glad to see,<br />
+Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.<br />
+On Friday morn, as I would take my way,<br />
+My friendly host entreated me to stay,<br />
+Because it rained, he told me I should have<br />
+Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave.<br />
+I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor,<br />
+But if I live, I will requite him better.<br />
+(From <i>Stony Stratford</i>) the way hard with stones,<br />
+Did founder me, and vex me to the bones.<br />
+In blustering weather, both for wind and rain,<br />
+Through <i>Towcester</i> I trotted with much pain,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg
+8]</a></span>Two miles from thence, we sat us down and
+dined,<br />
+Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.<br />
+We having fed, away incontinent,<br />
+With weary pace toward <i>Daventry</i> we went.<br />
+Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,<br />
+And told me he would leave a jug of beer,<br />
+At <i>Daventry</i> at the Horse-shoe for my use.<br />
+I thought it no good manners to refuse,<br />
+But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,<br />
+Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,<br />
+Came limping after to that stony town,<br />
+Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down.<br />
+There had my friend performed the words he said,<br />
+And at the door a jug of liquor staid,<br />
+The folks were all informed, before I came,<br />
+How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,<br />
+Which caused mine hostess from her door come out,<br />
+(Having a great wart rampant on her snout.)<br />
+The tapsters, hostlers, one another call,<br />
+The chamberlains with admiration all,<br />
+Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,<br />
+As if some monster sent from the <i>Mogul</i>,<br />
+Some elephant from <i>Africa</i>, I had been,<br />
+Or some strange beast from the <i>Amazonian</i> Queen.<br />
+As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg
+9]</a></span>Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl,<br />
+So did these brainless asses, all amazed,<br />
+With admirable <i>Nonsense</i> talked and gazed,<br />
+They knew my state (although not told by me)<br />
+That I could scarcely go, they all could see,<br />
+They drank of my beer, that to me was given,<br />
+But gave me not a drop to make all even,<br />
+And that which in my mind was most amiss,<br />
+My hostess she stood by and saw all this,<br />
+Had she but said, come near the house my friend,<br />
+For this day here shall be your journey's end.<br />
+Then had she done the thing which [she] did not,<br />
+And I in kinder words had paid the shot.<br />
+I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)<br />
+If they to <i>Daventry</i> do chance to come,<br />
+That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance,<br />
+Or accident into that house they glance,<br />
+Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,<br />
+My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,<a name="FNanchor_8_8"
+id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class=
+"fnanchor">[8]</a><br />
+Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will,<br />
+You for your money shall be welcome still.<br />
+From thence that night, although my bones were sore,<br />
+I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:<br />
+The way to <i>Dunchurch</i>, foul with dirt and mire,<br />
+Able, I think, both man and horse to tire.<br />
+On <i>Dunsmoor</i> Heath, a hedge doth there enclose<br />
+Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg
+10]</a></span>Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly
+learn,<br />
+With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern,<br />
+Of which we made a field-bed in the field,<br />
+Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield.<br />
+There with my mother earth, I thought it fit<br />
+To lodge, and yet no incest did commit:<br />
+My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs,<br />
+And being weary, I went up no stairs:<br />
+The sky my canopy, bright <i>Ph&oelig;be</i> shined<br />
+Sweet bawling <i>Zephyrus</i> breathed gentle wind,<br />
+In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night,<br />
+Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light;<br />
+There barricadoed with a bank lay we<br />
+Below the lofty branches of a tree,<br />
+There my bed-fellows and companions were,<br />
+My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer:<br />
+But yet for all this most confused rout,<br />
+We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out.<br />
+Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster,<br />
+Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;<br />
+And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,)<br />
+Allowed us a large covering and a blanket;<br />
+<i>Auroras</i> face 'gan light our lodging dark,<br />
+We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark,<br />
+Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg
+11]</a></span>I travelled to the city <i>Coventry</i>.<br />
+There Master Doctor <i>Holland</i><a name="FNanchor_9_9" id=
+"FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class=
+"fnanchor">[9]</a> caused me stay<br />
+The day of <i>Saturn</i> and the Sabbath day.<br />
+Most friendly welcome, he me did afford,<br />
+I was so entertained at bed and board,<br />
+Which as I dare not brag how much it was,<br />
+I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,<br />
+But with thanks many I remember it,<br />
+(Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ,<br />
+He used me like his son, more than a friend,<br />
+And he on Monday his commends did send<br />
+To <i>Newhall</i>, where a gentleman did dwell,<br />
+Who by his name is hight <i>Sacheverell</i>.<br />
+The Tuesday <i>July's</i> one and twentieth day,<br />
+I to the city <i>Lichfield</i> took my way,<br />
+At <i>Sutton Coldfield</i> with some friends I met,<br />
+And much ado I had from thence to get,<br />
+There I was almost put unto my trumps,<br />
+My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;<br />
+But noble <i>Vulcan</i>, a mad smuggy smith,<br />
+All reparations me did furnish with.<br />
+The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod,<br />
+And he referred the payment unto God.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg
+12]</a></span>I found a friend, when I to <i>Lichfield</i>
+came,<br />
+A joiner, and <i>John Piddock</i> is his name.<br />
+He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,<br />
+And he did furnish me with good provant:<br />
+He offered me some money, I refused it,<br />
+And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it,<br />
+That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass,<br />
+Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,<br />
+With here and there a pelting scattered village,<br />
+Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:<br />
+For all the day, nor yet the night that followed.<br />
+One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.<br />
+At night I came to a stony town called <i>Stone</i>.<br />
+Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:<br />
+I therefore through the streets held on my pace,<br />
+Some two miles farther to some resting place:<br />
+At last I spied a meadow newly mowed,<br />
+The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed:<br />
+We made a breach, and entered horse and man,<br />
+There our pavilion, we to pitch began,<br />
+Which we erected with green broom and hay,<br />
+To expel the cold, and keep the rain away;<br />
+The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,<br />
+And presently there fell a mighty shower,<br />
+Which without intermission down did pour,<br />
+From ten a night, until the morning's four.<br />
+We all that time close in our couch did lie,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg
+13]</a></span>Which being well compacted kept us dry.<br />
+The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,<br />
+And so a temperate diet we did keep.<br />
+The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs,<br />
+We being as ready as we had been dogs:<br />
+We need not stand upon long ready making,<br />
+But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:<br />
+And for I found my host and hostess kind,<br />
+I like a true man left my sheets behind.<br />
+That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,<br />
+Unto a town that is <i>Newcastle</i> named.<br />
+(Not that <i>Newcastle</i> standing upon <i>Tyne</i>)<br />
+But this town situation doth confine<br />
+Near <i>Cheshire</i>, in the famous county <i>Stafford</i>,<br />
+And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But now my versing muse craves
+some repose,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And whilst she sleeps I'll spout
+a little prose.</span><br /></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In this town of <i>Newcastle</i>,
+I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what the next town was
+called, that was in my way toward <i>Lancaster</i>, he holding
+the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute,
+piped me this answer, and said, <i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>; I asked
+him again what he said <i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>: I demanded the
+third time, and the third time he answered me as he did before,
+<i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>. I began to grow choleric, and asked him
+why he could not talk, or tell me my way as well there as on the
+hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town was four miles
+off me, and that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id=
+"Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> name of it was,
+<i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>: I had not travelled above two miles
+farther: but my last night's supper (which was as much as
+nothing) my mind being informed of it by my stomach. I made a
+virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun: I have
+fared better at three Suns many times before now, in
+<i>Aldersgate Street</i>, <i>Cripplegate</i>, and new <i>Fish
+Street</i>; but here is the odds, at those Suns they will come
+upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting as a tailor's bill
+of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls not half so
+heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law in
+their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of
+debt, and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence
+there is no appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the
+material Sunshine, we eat a substantial dinner, and like
+miserable guests we did budget up the reversions.</p>
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">And now with sleep my muse hath
+eased her brain<br />
+I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.<br />
+That which we could not have, we freely spared,<br />
+And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.<br />
+We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)<br />
+And kindly every step entreats me stay,<br />
+The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,<br />
+One foot went forward, the other back would slip,<br />
+This weary day, when I had almost past,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg
+15]</a></span>I came unto Sir <i>Urian Leigh's</i> at last,<br />
+At <i>Adlington</i>, near <i>Macclesfield</i> he doth
+dwell,<br />
+Beloved, respected, and reputed well.<br />
+Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,<br />
+From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,<br />
+At his own table I did daily eat,<br />
+Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,<br />
+He would have given me gold or silver either,<br />
+But I, with many thanks, received neither,<br />
+And thus much without flattery I dare swear,<br />
+He is a knight beloved far and near,<br />
+First he's beloved of his God above,<br />
+(Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love)<br />
+Next with a wife and children he is blest,<br />
+Each having God's fear planted in their breast.<br />
+With fair demaines, revenue of good lands,<br />
+He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands,<br />
+And as he's happy in these outward things,<br />
+So from his inward mind continual springs<br />
+Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety,<br />
+Good hospitable works of charity,<br />
+Just in his actions, constant in his word,<br />
+And one that won his honour with the sword,<br />
+He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight,<br />
+But he knows when, and how to speak or fight,<br />
+I cannot flatter him, say what I can,<br />
+He's every way a complete gentleman.<br />
+I write not this, for what he did to me,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg
+16]</a></span>But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and
+see,<br />
+Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame<br />
+But to make others imitate the same,<br />
+For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow,<br />
+I would his worthy worth more amply show,<br />
+But I already fear have been too bold,<br />
+And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.<br />
+Thanks to his sons and servants every one,<br />
+Both males and females all, excepting none.<br />
+To bear a letter he did me require,<br />
+Near <i>Manchester</i>, unto a good Esquire:<br />
+His kinsman <i>Edmund Prestwitch</i>, he ordained,<br />
+That I was at <i>Manchester</i> entertained<br />
+Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,<br />
+For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass;<br />
+This gentleman not only gave harbour,<br />
+But in the morning sent me to his barber,<br />
+Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,<br />
+Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.<br />
+But in conclusion, when his work was ended,<br />
+His glass informed, my face was much amended.<br />
+And for the kindness he to me did show,<br />
+God grant his customers beards faster grow,<br />
+That though the time of year be dear or cheap,<br />
+From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.<br />
+Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg
+17]</a></span>He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did
+fail,<br />
+Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt,<br />
+Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:<br />
+Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?<br />
+No, Master <i>Prestwitch</i>, this and much more did,<br />
+His friendship did command and freely gave<br />
+All before writ, and more than I durst crave.<br />
+But leaving him a little, I must tell,<br />
+How men of <i>Manchester</i> did use me well,<br />
+Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack,<br />
+Roast, boiled, baked, too&mdash;too&mdash;much, white, claret,
+sack,<br />
+Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,<br />
+Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot,<br />
+That what they could do, all they thought too little,<br />
+Striving in love the traveller to whittle.<br />
+We went into the house of one <i>John Pinners</i>,<br />
+(A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners)<br />
+And there eight several sorts of ale we had,<br />
+All able to make one stark drunk or mad.<br />
+But I with courage bravely flinched not,<br />
+And gave the town leave to discharge the shot.<br />
+We had at one time set upon the table,<br />
+Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no &AElig;sop-fable:<br />
+Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt,<br />
+And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt,<br />
+With ale of rosemary, and betony,<br />
+And two ales more, or else I needs must lie.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg
+18]</a></span>But to conclude this drinking aley-tale,<br />
+We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale.<br />
+Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,<br />
+Did strive whose love should be expressed most,<br />
+And farther to declare their boundless loves,<br />
+They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves,<br />
+In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,<br />
+That in their praise I cannot write too much;<br />
+They merit more than I have here compiled,<br />
+I lodged at the Eagle and the Child,<br />
+Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman)<br />
+Did entertain me with respect, not common.<br />
+She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed,<br />
+And on my way she caused me be refreshed,<br />
+She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon,<br />
+Which by me much refused, at last was taken,<br />
+In troth she proved a mother unto me,<br />
+For which, I evermore will thankful be.<br />
+But when to mind these kindnesses I call,<br />
+Kind Master <i>Prestwitch</i> author is of all,<br />
+And yet Sir <i>Urian Leigh's</i> good commendation,<br />
+Was the main ground of this my recreation.<br />
+From both of them, there what I had, I had,<br />
+Or else my entertainment had been bad.<br />
+O all you worthy men of <i>Manchester</i>,<br />
+(True bred bloods of the County <i>Lancaster</i>)<br />
+When I forget what you to me have done,<br />
+Then let me headlong to confusion run.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg
+19]</a></span>To noble Master <i>Prestwitch</i> I must give<br />
+Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,<br />
+His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,<br />
+He far surpassed all that went before,<br />
+A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,<br />
+To bring me quite through <i>Lancaster's</i> large county,<br />
+Which I well know is fifty miles at large,<br />
+And he defrayed all the cost and charge.<br />
+This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,<br />
+That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.<br />
+So Mistress <i>Saracoal</i>, hostess kind,<br />
+And <i>Manchester</i> with thanks I left behind.<br />
+The Wednesday being <i>July's</i> twenty nine,<br />
+My journey I to <i>Preston</i> did confine,<br />
+All the day long it rained but one shower,<br />
+Which from the morning to the evening did pour,<br />
+And I, before to <i>Preston</i> I could get,<br />
+Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat,<br />
+But there I was supplied with fire and food,<br />
+And anything I wanted sweet and good.<br />
+There, at the Hind, kind Master <i>Hind</i> mine host,<br />
+Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast,<br />
+There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,<br />
+And hardly got from thence on Saturday.<br />
+Unto my lodging often did repair,<br />
+Kind Master <i>Thomas Banister</i>, the Mayor,<br />
+Who is of worship, and of good respect,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg
+20]</a></span>And in his charge discreet and circumspect.<br />
+For I protest to God I never saw,<br />
+A town more wisely governed by the law.<br />
+They told me when my Sovereign there was last,<br />
+That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste.<br />
+It grieved them all, but when at last they found,<br />
+His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned.<br />
+He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds,<br />
+He did accept their kind intents, for deeds:<br />
+One man there was, that with his zeal too hot,<br />
+And furious haste, himself much overshot.<br />
+But what man is so foolish, that desires<br />
+To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars?<br />
+Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,<br />
+Because I saw how much they grieved were;<br />
+That any way, the least part of offence,<br />
+Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.<br />
+Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in <i>Preston</i>,<br />
+And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,<br />
+Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,<br />
+And on my way two miles, with me he went,<br />
+There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,<br />
+The under Sheriff of <i>Lancashire</i> we met,<br />
+A gentleman that loved, and knew me well,<br />
+And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.<br />
+There, as if I had been a noted thief,<br />
+The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.<br />
+The Sheriff's authority did much prevail,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg
+21]</a></span>He sent me unto one that kept the jail.<br />
+Thus I perambuling, poor <i>John Taylor</i>,<br />
+Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor.<br />
+The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer,<br />
+Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear,<br />
+For the under-Sheriff kind Master <i>Covill</i> named,<br />
+(A man for house-keeping renowed and famed)<br />
+Did cause the town of <i>Lancashire</i> afford<br />
+Me welcome, as if I had been a lord.<br />
+And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,<br />
+His mate can scarce be found in all that county.<br />
+The extremes of miser, or of prodigal,<br />
+He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,<br />
+His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed,<br />
+That <i>Argus</i> eyes could see no odds betwixt,<br />
+And sure the difference, (if there difference be)<br />
+Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.<br />
+Poor folks report, that for relieving them,<br />
+He and his wife, are each of them a gem;<br />
+At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid,<br />
+And what was to be paid, I know he paid:<br />
+If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,<br />
+Ungrateful me the world might justly note:<br />
+Had I declared all I did hear, and see,<br />
+For a great flatterer then I deemed should be,<br />
+Him and his wife, and modest daughter <i>Bess</i>,<br />
+With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless.<br />
+Two days a man of his, at his command,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg
+22]</a></span>Did guide me to the midst of
+<i>Westmoreland</i>,<br />
+And my conductor with a liberal fist,<br />
+To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed.<br />
+The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)<br />
+We in the dark, to a town called <i>Sedbergh</i> came,<br />
+There Master <i>Borrowed</i>, my kind honest host,<br />
+Upon me did bestowed unasked cost.<br />
+The next day I held on my journey still,<br />
+Six miles unto a place called <i>Carling</i> hill,<br />
+Where Master <i>Edmund Branthwaite</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10"
+id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class=
+"fnanchor">[10]</a> doth reside,<br />
+Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.<br />
+Our entertainment, and our fare were such,<br />
+It might have satisfied our betters much;<br />
+Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,<br />
+And five miles on my way himself me brought,<br />
+At <i>Orton</i> he, I, and my man did dine,<br />
+With Master <i>Corney</i> a good true Divine,<br />
+And surely Master <i>Branthwaite</i>'s well beloved,<br />
+His firm integrity is much approved:<br />
+His good effects, do make him still affected<br />
+Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.<br />
+He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg
+23]</a></span>Who lodged, and boarded me at <i>Penrith</i>
+town,<br />
+And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,<br />
+That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;<br />
+There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)<br />
+With me a journey would to <i>Carlisle</i> make:<br />
+But from that city, about two miles wide,<br />
+Good Sir <i>John Dalston</i> lodged me and my guide.<br />
+Of all the gentlemen in <i>England's</i> bounds<br />
+His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,<br />
+And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,<br />
+He's free from being covetous, or proud;<br />
+His son, Sir <i>George</i>, most affable, and kind,<br />
+His father's image, both in form and mind,<br />
+On Saturday to <i>Carlisle</i> both did ride,<br />
+Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,<br />
+Where of good entertainment I found store,<br />
+From one that was the mayor the year before,<br />
+His name is Master <i>Adam Robinson</i>,<br />
+I the last English friendship with him won.<br />
+He (<i>gratis</i>) found a guide to bring me through,<br />
+<span class="sidenote"><i>My thanks to Sir John and Sir Geo.
+Dalston, with Sir Henry Curwin.</i></span>
+From <i>Carlisle</i> to the city
+<i>Edinburgh</i>:<br />
+This was a help, that was a help alone,<br />
+Of all my helps inferior unto none.<br />
+Eight miles from <i>Carlisle</i> runs a little river,<br />
+Which <i>England's</i> bounds, from <i>Scotland's</i> grounds
+doth sever.<br />
+Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get<br />
+<span class="sidenote"><i>Over Esk I waded.</i></span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>On foot, I went, yet
+scarce my shoes did wet.<br />
+I being come to this long-looked-for land,<br />
+Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned;<br />
+And I saw nothing that could change my will,<br />
+But that I thought myself in <i>England</i> still.<br />
+The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,<br />
+There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;<br />
+There I saw sky above, and earth below,<br />
+And as in <i>England</i>, there the sun did show;<br />
+The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale,<br />
+<span class="sidenote"><i>The afore-named knights had given money
+to my guide, of which he left some part at every
+ale-house.</i></span>
+And many a cottage yielded good
+Scottish ale;<br />
+This county (<i>Avondale</i>) in former times,<br />
+Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:<br />
+For <i>Cumberland</i> and it, both kingdoms borders,<br />
+Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,<br />
+Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,<br />
+Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving;<br />
+And many times he that had wealth to-night,<br />
+Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:<br />
+Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted,<br />
+That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,<br />
+Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled,<br />
+The churches with the lowly ground were levelled;<br />
+All memorable monuments defaced,<br />
+All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.<br />
+That whoso then did in the borders dwell,<br />
+Lived little happier than those in hell.<br />
+But since the all-disposing God of heaven,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg
+25]</a></span>Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given,<br />
+Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered,<br />
+Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,<br />
+That now each subject may securely sleep,<br />
+His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep,<br />
+For now those crowns are both in one combined,<br />
+Those former borders, that each one confine,<br />
+Appears to me (as I do understand)<br />
+To be almost the centre of the land,<br />
+This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,<br />
+To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle.<br />
+Long may the instrumental cause survive.<br />
+From him and his, succession still derive<br />
+True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,<br />
+That these two kingdoms ever may be one;<br />
+This county of all <i>Scotland</i> is most poor,<br />
+By reason of the outrages before,<br />
+Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow,<br />
+And as good grass as ever man did mow:<br />
+And as that day I twenty miles did pass,<br />
+I saw eleven hundred neat at grass,<br />
+By which may be conjectured at the least,<br />
+That there was sustenance for man and beast.<br />
+And in the kingdom I have truly scanned,<br />
+There's many worser parts, are better manned,<br />
+For in the time that thieving was in ure,<br />
+The gentles fled to places more secure.<br />
+And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg
+26]</a></span>Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn
+again.<br />
+The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty,<br />
+Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,<br />
+Twixt it and England, little odds I see,<br />
+They eat, and live, and strong and able be,<br />
+So much in verse, and now I'll change my style,<br />
+And seriously I'll write in prose awhile.<br /></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">To the purpose then: my first
+night's lodging in <i>Scotland</i> was at a place called
+<i>Moffat</i>, which they say, is thirty miles from
+<i>Carlisle</i>, but I suppose them to be longer than forty of
+such miles as are betwixt <i>London</i> and Saint <i>Albans</i>,
+(but indeed the Scots do allow almost as large measure of their
+miles, as they do of their drink, for an English gallon either of
+ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile (now and
+then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but
+howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest
+that ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found
+good ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was
+sweet and good, and might have served a far better man than
+myself, although myself have had many times better: but this is
+to be noted, that though it rained not all the day, yet it was my
+fortune to be well wet twice, for I waded over a great river
+called <i>Esk</i> in the morning, somewhat more than four miles
+distance from <i>Carlisle</i> in <i>England</i>, and at night
+within two miles of my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id=
+"Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> lodging, I was fain to wade over the
+river of <i>Annan</i> in <i>Scotland</i>, from which river the
+county of <i>Annandale</i>, hath its name. And whilst I waded on
+foot, my man was mounted on horseback, like the <i>George</i>
+without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and left
+<i>Moffat</i> behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one
+miles to a sorry village called <i>Blythe</i>, but I was blithe
+myself to come to any place of harbour or succour, for since I
+was born, I never was so weary, or so near being dead with
+extreme travel: I was foundered and refoundered of all four, and
+for my better comfort, I came so late, that I must lodge without
+doors all night, or else in a poor house where the good wife lay
+in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant maid
+being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially
+adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I
+must either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we
+got eggs and ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went,
+my man lying on the floor by me, where in the night there were
+pigeons did very bountifully mute in his face: the day being no
+sooner come, and having but fifteen miles to <i>Edinburgh</i>,
+mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to hobble, and after to
+amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by degrees; all the way
+passing through a fertile country for corn and cattle: and about
+two of the clock in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28"
+id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> afternoon that Wednesday, being
+the thirteenth of August, and the day of <i>Clare</i> the Virgin
+(the sign being in <i>Virgo</i>) the moon four days old, the wind
+at west, I came to take rest, at the wished, long expected,
+ancient famous city of <i>Edinburgh</i>, which I entered like
+Pierce Penniless,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id=
+"FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class=
+"fnanchor">[11]</a> altogether moneyless, but I thank God, not
+friendless; for being there, for the time of my stay, I might
+borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I could get, beg if I
+had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure the price of a
+hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to suffer him
+and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of litter,
+till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that
+would desperately disburse.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Walking thus down the street, (my
+body being tired with travel, and my mind attired with moody,
+muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation did devotely pray,
+that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being willing to
+take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing, and
+circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his
+picture, but all my acquaintance was <i>Non est inventus</i>,
+(pardon me, reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by
+<i>Priscian's Pericranium</i>, an oath which I have ignorantly
+broken many times.) <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id=
+"Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>At last I resolved, that the next
+gentleman that I meet withal, should be acquaintance whether he
+would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon a gentleman-like
+object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something through
+him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my
+gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the
+way and made toward me, and then I made down the street from him,
+leaving to encounter with any man, who came after me leading my
+horse, whom he thus accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder
+gentleman, (meaning me) know me, that he looks so wistly on me?
+Truly sir, said my man, I think not, but my master is a stranger
+come from <i>London</i>, and would gladly meet some acquaintance
+to direct him where he may have lodging and horse-meat. Presently
+the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition) overtook me with
+unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a lodging, and
+caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we
+discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to
+him, as made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master
+<i>John Maxwell</i>) which money I am sure was the first that I
+handled after I came from out the walls of <i>London</i>: but
+having rested two hours and refreshed myself, the gentleman and I
+walked to see the City and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30"
+id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> the Castle, which as my poor
+unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The Castle on a lofty rock is so
+strongly grounded, bounded, and founded, that by force of man it
+can never be confounded; the foundation and walls are
+unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks invincible,
+no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable. In a
+word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in <i>Germany</i>,
+the <i>Netherlands</i>, <i>Spain</i> and <i>England</i>, but they
+must all give place to this unconquered Castle, both for strength
+and situation.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Amongst the many memorable things
+which I was shewed there, I noted especially a great piece of
+ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but it will serve to
+defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against any that
+should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now
+dismounted.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id=
+"FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class=
+"fnanchor">[12]</a> And it is so great within, that it was told
+me that a child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept
+into it, lying on my back, and I am sure there was room enough
+and spare for a greater than myself.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving the Castle, as it is
+both defensive against my opposition, and magnific for lodging
+and receite,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id=
+"FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class=
+"fnanchor">[13]</a> I descended lower to the City, wherein I
+observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever <span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>mine
+eyes beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that
+length, (which is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair
+port which they call the <i>Nether-Bow</i>) and from that port,
+the street which they call the <i>Kenny-gate</i> is one quarter
+of a mile more, down to the King's Palace, called
+<i>Holy-rood-House</i>, the buildings on each side of the way
+being all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high,
+and many bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein
+are gentlemen's houses, much fairer than the buildings in the
+High Street, for in the High Street the merchants and tradesmen
+do dwell, but the gentlemen's mansions and goodliest houses are
+obscurely founded in the aforesaid lanes: the walls are eight or
+ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not built for a day, a week, or
+a month, or a year; but from antiquity to posterity, for many
+ages; there I found entertainment beyond my expectation or merit,
+and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such variety, that
+I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety. The
+worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there
+such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any
+man had asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could
+not have made him a sober answer.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I was at his Majesty's Palace, a
+stately and princely seat, wherein I saw a sumptuous chapel, most
+richly adorned with all appurtenances belong<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>ing to
+so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner court I saw
+the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a door
+aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which
+was written this inscription in Latin,</p>
+<h4><i>Nobis h&aelig;c invicta miserunt, 106 proavi.</i></h4>
+<p>I enquired what the English of it was? it was told me as
+followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded.</p>
+<h4><i>106, forefathers have left this to us
+unconquered.</i></h4>
+<p>This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms
+or none in the world can truly write the like, that
+notwithstanding so many inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults,
+civil wars, and foreign hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty
+foughten fields, that maugre the strength and policy of enemies,
+that royal crown and sceptre hath from one hundred and seven
+descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power of the King of
+Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now left
+peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the
+God of peace defend and govern.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">But once more, a word or two of
+<i>Edinburgh</i>, although I have scarcely given it that due
+which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately buildings, and
+for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades me that
+they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well
+in that they built it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id=
+"Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> in so discommodious a place; for the
+sea, and all navigable rivers being the chief means for the
+enriching of towns and cities, by the reason of traffic with
+foreign nations, with exportation, transportation, and receite of
+variety of merchandizing; so this city had it been built but one
+mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it had long before
+this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns and
+cities in <i>Europe</i>, both for spaciousness of bounds, port,
+state, and riches. It is said, that King <i>James</i> the fifth
+(of famous memory) did graciously offer to purchase for them, and
+to bestow upon them freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a
+mile from them on the seashore, with these conditions, that they
+should pull down their city, and build it in that more commodious
+place, but the citizens refused it; and so now it is like (for
+me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such another proffer of
+removal will not be presented to them, till two days after the
+fair.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Now have with you for
+<i>Leith</i>, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well
+entertained by Master <i>Barnard Lindsay</i>, one of the grooms
+of his Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty,
+because I brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they
+would not pass for current there) he therefore did replenish the
+vaustity<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> of my empty
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg
+34]</a></span>purse, and discharged a piece at me with two
+bullets of gold, each being in value worth eleven shillings white
+money; and I was creditably informed, that within the compass of
+one year, there was shipped away from that only port of
+<i>Leith</i>, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats, and barley
+into <i>Spain</i>, <i>France</i>, and other foreign parts, and
+every bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that
+from <i>Leith</i> only hath been transported three hundred and
+twenty thousand bushels of corn; besides some hath been shipped
+away from Saint <i>Andrews</i>, from <i>Dundee</i>,
+<i>Aberdeen</i>, <i>Dysart</i>, <i>Kirkaldy</i>, <i>Kinghorn</i>,
+<i>Burntisland</i>, <i>Dunbar</i>, and other portable towns,
+which makes me to wonder that a kingdom so populous as it is,
+should nevertheless sell so much bread-corn beyond the seas, and
+yet to have more than sufficient for themselves.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So I having viewed the haven and
+town of <i>Leith</i>, took a passage boat to see the new wondrous
+Well,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> to which many a one
+that is not well, comes far and near in hope to be made well:
+indeed I did hear that it had done much good, and that it hath a
+rare operation to expel or kill divers maladies; as to provoke
+appetite, to help much for the avoiding of the gravel in the
+bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with many other
+virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God, having
+no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg
+35]</a></span> need of it, did make no great inquisition what it
+had done, but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to
+be more pleasant than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet
+as clear as crystal, and I did observe that though a man did
+drink a quart, a pottle, or as much as his belly could contain,
+yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the stomach, no more than
+if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I went two miles from it to a town
+called <i>Burntisland</i>, where I found many of my especial good
+friends, as Master <i>Robert Hay</i>, one of the Grooms of his
+Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master <i>David Drummond</i>, one of his
+Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master <i>James Acmootye</i>, one of the
+Grooms of the Privy Chamber, Captain <i>Murray</i>, Sir <i>Henry
+Witherington</i> Knight, Captain <i>Tyrie</i>, and divers others:
+and there Master <i>Hay</i>, Master <i>Drummond</i>, and the good
+old Captain <i>Murray</i> did very bountifully furnish me with
+gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those aforesaid
+gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange
+accident, which I think worth the relating.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I know not upon what occasion they
+began to talk of being at sea in former times, and I (amongst the
+rest) said, I was at the taking of <i>Cadiz</i>; whereto an
+English gentleman replied, that he was the next good voyage after
+at the Islands: I answered him<span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> that I was there also.
+He demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the
+Queens: why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same
+ship, and my name is <i>Witherington</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Sir, said I, I do remember the
+name well, but by reason that it is near two and twenty years
+since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of you. Well
+said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some
+remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told
+him two or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then,
+said I, I will tell you another which (perhaps) you have not
+forgotten; as our ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at
+anchor at the Isle of <i>Flores</i> (one of the Isles of the
+<i>Azores</i>) there were some fourteen men and boys of our ship,
+that for novelty would go ashore, and see what fruit the island
+did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so being
+landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones,
+heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs,
+muskmellions, and potatoes; in
+the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea was so
+extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to
+fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the
+rocks; this continued five days, so that we were almost famished
+for want of food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the
+providence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id=
+"Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> of God I happened into a cave or
+poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves of bread, each of
+the quantity of a penny loaf in <i>England</i>, I having a
+valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty
+hours breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace:
+and as I was about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did
+put twelve of them into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went
+mumbling out of the cave, leaning my back against a tree, when
+upon the sudden a gentleman came to me, and said, "Friend, what
+are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For God's sake," said he,
+"give me some." With that, I put my hand into my breech, (being
+my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received with
+many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he
+would.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I had no sooner told this tale,
+but Sir <i>Henry Witherington</i> did acknowledge himself to be
+the man that I had given the loaf unto two and twenty years
+before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more
+privilege than mountains in meeting.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In what great measure he did
+requite so small a courtesy, I will relate in this following
+discourse in my return through <i>Northumberland</i>: so leaving
+my man at the town of <i>Burntisland</i>, I told him, I would but
+go to <i>Stirling</i>, and see the Castle there, and withal to
+see my honourable friends the Earl of<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+<i>Mar</i>, and Sir <i>William Murray</i> Knight, Lord of
+<i>Abercairney</i>, and that I would return within two days at
+the most: but it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and
+thirty days before I could get back again out of these noble
+men's company. The whole progress of my travel with them, and the
+cause of my stay I cannot with gratefulness omit; and thus it
+was.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">A worthy gentleman named Master
+<i>John Fenton</i>, did bring me on my way six miles to
+<i>Dunfermline</i>, where I was well entertained, and lodged at
+Master <i>John Gibb</i> his house, one of the Grooms of his
+Majesty's Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King
+hath: withal, I was well entertained there by Master
+<i>Crighton</i> at his own house, who went with me, and shewed me
+the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely Mansion) withal I saw
+the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey, with fair
+gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which
+with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey,
+were annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church,
+which though it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in
+former times been much larger. But I taking my leave of
+<i>Dunfermline</i>, would needs go and see the truly noble Knight
+Sir <i>George Bruce</i>, at a town called the <i>Culross</i>:
+there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare, and
+after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg
+39]</a></span> all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to
+see his most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could
+work wonders) is a wonder; for myself neither in any travels that
+I have been in, nor any history that I have read, or any
+discourse that I have heard, did never see, read, or hear of any
+work of man that might parallel or be equivalent with this
+unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I can say of it,
+cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his vigilant
+industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer of
+it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so
+accomplished a profit to the commonwealth shall be raked and
+smothered in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at
+the description of it, although I amongst writers, am like he
+that worse may hold the candle.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The mine hath two ways into it,
+the one by sea and the other by land; but a man may go into it by
+land, and return the same way if he please, and so he may enter
+into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it: but I for
+variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may
+object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being
+into the sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the
+mine? To which objection thus I answer, that at low water mark,
+the sea being ebbed away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon
+this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg
+40]</a></span></p>
+same sand (being mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of
+this great work build a round circular frame of stone, very
+thick, strong, and joined together with glutinous or bituminous
+matter, so high withal that the sea at the highest flood, or the
+greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither dissolve the
+stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow the
+height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did
+set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments
+fit for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into
+and through a rock. At last they found that which they expected,
+which was sea coal, they following the vein of the mine, did dig
+forward still: so that in the space of eight and twenty, or nine
+and twenty years, they have digged more
+than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at work
+below, an hundred of the greatest ships in <i>Britain</i> man
+sail over their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut
+like an arch or a vault, all that great length, with many nooks
+and bye-ways: and it is so made, that a man may walk upright in
+the most places, both in and out. Many poor people are there set
+on work, which otherwise through the want of employment would
+perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was come forth of it
+again; after my thanks given to Sir <i>George Bruce</i>, I told
+him, that if the plotters of the
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg
+41]</a></span></p>
+Powder Treason in England had seen this mine, that they (perhaps)
+would have attempted to have left the Parliament House, and have
+undermined the Thames, and so to have blown up the barges and
+wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates of our kingdom
+were. Moreover, I said, that I couldafford to turn tapster at
+<i>London</i>, so that I had but<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">one quarter of a mile of his mine
+to make me</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6.5em;">a cellar, to keep beer and
+bottled ale</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 8.5em;">in. But leaving these jests
+in</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 9.5em;">prose, I will relate a
+few</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 11.5em;">verses that I
+made</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 12.5em;">merrily of this</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 15em;">mine.</span><br />
+<br />
+
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="I" src=
+"images/tay_page_45.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+that have wasted, months, weeks,
+days, and hours<br />
+In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers,<br />
+Without all measure, measuring many paces,<br />
+And with my pen describing many places,<br />
+With few additions of mine own devising,<br />
+(Because I have a smack of <i>Coryatizing</i><a name=
+"FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>)<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg
+42]</a></span>Our <i>Mandeville</i>, <i>Primaleon</i>, <i>Don
+Quixote</i>,<br />
+Great <i>Amadis</i>, or <i>Huon</i>, travelled not<br />
+As I have done, or been where I have been,<br />
+Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;<br />
+Nor Britain's <i>Odcombe</i> (<i>Zany</i> brave
+<i>Ulysses</i>)<br />
+In all his ambling, saw the like as this is.<br />
+I was in (would I could describe it well)<br />
+A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,<br />
+And as by water I was wafted in,<br />
+I thought that I in <i>Charon's</i> boat had been,<br />
+But being at the entrance landed thus,<br />
+Three men there (instead of <i>Cerberus</i>)<br />
+Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light<br />
+To guide us in that vault of endless night,<br />
+There young and old with glim'ring candles burning<br />
+Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,<br />
+Some in a hole with baskets and with bags,<br />
+Resembling furies, or infernal hags:<br />
+There one like <i>Tantalus</i> feeding, and there one,<br />
+Like <i>Sisyphus</i> he rolls the restless stone.<br />
+Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,<br />
+Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet<a name=
+"FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg
+43]</a></span>For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,<br />
+There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell;<br />
+And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory,<br />
+Than <i>Rome</i> doth by fantastic Purgatory.<br />
+A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep,<br />
+In deepness far more deep, than <i>Neptunes</i> deep,<br />
+Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high)<br />
+Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky:<br />
+That had I died in that <i>Cimmerian</i><a name="FNanchor_18_18"
+id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class=
+"fnanchor">[18]</a> room,<br />
+Four elements had covered o'er my tomb:<br />
+Thus farther than the bottom did I go,<br />
+(And many Englishmen have not done so;)<br />
+Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales,<br />
+And regiments of fish with fins and scales,<br />
+'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide,<br />
+And where great ships may at an anchor ride:<br />
+Thus in by sea, and out by land I past,<br />
+And took my leave of good Sir <i>George</i> at last.<br /></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The sea at certain places doth
+leak, or soak into the mine, which by the industry of Sir
+<i>George Bruce</i>, is all conveyed to one well near the land;
+where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses
+and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with
+thirty-six buckets fastened <span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>to the chain, of the
+which eighteen go down still to be filled, and eighteen ascend up
+to be emptied, which do empty themselves (without any man's
+labour) into a trough that conveys the water into the sea again;
+by which means he saves his mine, which otherwise would be
+destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every week ninety or
+a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of
+<i>Scotland</i>, some he sends into <i>England</i>, and very much
+into <i>Germany</i>: all which shows the painful industry with
+God's blessings to such worthy endeavours: I must with many
+thanks remember his courtesy to me, and lastly how he sent his
+man to guide me ten miles on the way to <i>Stirling</i>, where by
+the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately house called
+<i>Allaway</i>, belonging to the Earl of <i>Mar</i> which by
+reason that his honour was not there, I past by and went to
+<i>Stirling</i>, where I was entertained and lodged at one Master
+John <i>Archibalds</i>, where all my want was that I wanted room
+to contain half the good cheer that I might have had there! he
+had me into the castle, which in few words I do compare to
+<i>Windsor</i> for situation, much more than <i>Windsor</i> in
+strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that
+his Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath
+neither in <i>England</i> or <i>Scotland</i>, except Westminster
+Hall which is now no dwelling hall<span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> for a prince, being
+long since metamorphosed into a house for the law and the
+profits.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">This goodly hall was built by King
+<i>James</i> the fourth, that married King <i>Henry</i> the
+Eight's sister, and after was slain at <i>Flodden field</i>; but
+it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw,
+for length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle
+is built upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond <i>Edinburgh</i>
+Castle in state and magnificence, and not much inferior to it in
+strength, the rooms of it are lofty, with carved works on the
+ceilings, the doors of each room being so high, that a man may
+ride upright on horseback into any chamber or lodging. There is
+also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables, and all other
+necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the majesty of
+a king.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Stirling</i> I rode to
+Saint <i>Johnstone</i>,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id=
+"FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class=
+"fnanchor">[19]</a> a fine town it is, but it is much decayed, by
+reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming to lodge there.
+There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the house his
+name being <i>Patrick Pitcairne</i>, where my entertainment was
+with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest.
+Mine host told me that the Earl of <i>Mar</i>, and Sir <i>William
+Murray</i> of <i>Abercairney</i> were gone to the great hunting
+to the <i>Brae</i> of <i>Mar</i><a name="FNanchor_20_20" id=
+"FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class=
+"fnanchor">[20]</a>; but if<span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> I made haste I might
+perhaps find them at a town called <i>Brekin</i>, or
+<i>Brechin</i>, two and thirty miles from Saint <i>Johnstone</i>
+whereupon I took a guide to <i>Brechin</i> the next day, but
+before I came, my lord was gone from thence four days.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Then I took another guide, which
+brought me such strange ways over mountains and rocks, that I
+think my horse never went the like; and I am sure I never saw any
+ways that might fellow them I did go through a country called
+<i>Glen Esk</i>, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep as
+the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a
+yard broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look
+down into the bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he
+had fallen without recovery a good mile
+downright; but I thank God, at night I came to a lodging in the
+Laird of <i>Edzell's</i> land, where I lay at an Irish house, the
+folks not being able to speak scarce any English, but I supped
+and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was enforced to
+rise, I was so stung with Irish mosquitoes, a creature that hath
+six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon man's flesh,
+they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this house
+was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in
+<i>England</i>, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to
+me the <i>A.</i> and the <i>Z.</i> the prologue and the epilogue,
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg
+47]</a></span> first and the last that I had in all my travels
+from <i>Edinburgh</i>; and had not this Highland Irish house
+helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all
+<i>Scotland</i> had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse
+upon me: but with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals,
+and was never more troubled with them.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The next day I travelled over an
+exceeding high mountain, called mount <i>Skene</i>, where I found
+the valley very warm before I went up it; but when I came to the
+top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with cold, like
+Virginal's jacks;<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id=
+"FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class=
+"fnanchor">[21]</a> and withal, a most familiar mist embraced me
+round, that I could not see thrice my length any way: withal, it
+yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my
+clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified,
+in wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six
+miles, the way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and
+long heath, that a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with
+four; for do what we could, we were four hours before we could
+pass it.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus with extreme travel,
+ascending and descending, mounting and alighting, I came at night
+to the place where I would be, in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>, which
+is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that Shooter's
+Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate <span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>Hill, Hampstead Hill,
+Birdlip Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in
+comparison, or like a liver, or a gizard
+under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of their tops,
+or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount <i>Ben
+Aven</i>, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a
+night-cap: (for you must understand, that the oldest man alive
+never saw but the snow was on the top of divers of those hills,
+both in summer, as well as in winter.) There did I find the truly
+Noble and Right Honourable Lords <i>John Erskine</i> Earl of Mar,
+<i>James Stuart</i> Earl of Murray, <i>George Gordon</i> Earl of
+Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, <i>James
+Erskine</i> Earl of Buchan, and <i>John</i> Lord <i>Erskine</i>,
+son and heir to the Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my
+much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir
+<i>William Murray</i> Knight, of <i>Abercairney</i>, and hundred
+of others Knights, Esquires, and their followers; all and every
+man in general in one habit, as if <i>Lycurgus</i> had been
+there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which is
+the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many
+of the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do
+come into these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform
+themselves to the habit of the Highland men, who for the most
+part speak nothing but Irish;<span class='pagenum'><a name=
+"Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> and in former time were
+those people which were called the <i>Red-shanks</i>.<a name=
+"FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Their habit is shoes
+with but one sole apiece; stockings (which they call short hose)
+made of a warm stuff of divers colours, which they call tartan:
+as for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers never wore
+any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that their hose is of, their
+garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw, with a plaid
+about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, of
+much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps
+on their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their
+neck; and thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows
+and forked arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets,
+dirks, and Lochaber axes. With these arms I found many of them
+armed for the hunting. As for their attire, any man of what
+degree soever that comes amongst them, must not disdain to wear
+it; for if they do, then they will disdain to hunt, or willingly,
+to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto them, and be in
+their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and the sport
+will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg
+50]</a></span>many noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to
+proceed to the hunting.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">My good Lord of <i>Mar</i> having
+put me into that shape,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id=
+"FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class=
+"fnanchor">[23]</a> I rode with him from his house, where I saw
+the ruins of an old castle, called the castle of
+<i>Kindroghit</i> [Castletown]. It was built by King <i>Malcolm
+Canmore</i> (for a hunting house) who reigned in <i>Scotland</i>
+when <i>Edward</i> the Confessor, <i>Harold</i>, and Norman
+<i>William</i> reigned in <i>England</i>: I speak of it, because
+it was the last house that I saw in those parts; for I was the
+space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corn
+field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses,
+wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I
+should never have seen a house again.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id=
+"FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class=
+"fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus the first day we travelled
+eight miles, where there small cottages built on purpose to lodge
+in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good Lord
+<i>Erskine</i>, he commanded that I should always be lodged in
+his lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many
+kettles and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding,
+with great variety of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and
+stewed beef, mutton, goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons,
+hens, capons, chickens, partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks,
+capercailzies, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id=
+"Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>termagants [ptarmigans]; good ale,
+sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante) with most potent
+<i>Aquavit&aelig;</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">All these, and more than these we
+had continually, in superfluous abundance, caught by Falconers,
+Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my Lord's tenants and purveyors
+to victual our camp, which consisted of fourteen or fifteen
+hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is this: five
+or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do
+disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles
+compass, they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two,
+three, or four hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the
+Nobleman shall appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and
+gentlemen of their companies, do ride or go to the said places,
+sometimes wading up to their middles through bournes and rivers:
+and then: they being come to the place, do lie down on the
+ground, till those foresaid scouts which are called the Tinchel,
+do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says of a bad cook, so
+these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for besides their
+bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear now and
+then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom
+discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or
+thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round
+about us, (their heads making a show like<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> a
+wood) which being followed close by the Tinchel, are chased down
+into the valley where we lay; then all the valley on each side
+being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong Irish greyhounds,
+they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the herd of deer,
+so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in the space
+of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are
+disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty
+miles, and more than enough left for us to make merry withal at
+our rendezvous. I liked the sport so well, that I made these two
+sonnets following.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="W" src=
+"images/tay_page_56.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+hy should I waste invention to
+indite,<br />
+<i>Ovidian</i> fictions, or Olympian games?<br />
+My misty Muse enlightened with more light,<br />
+To a more noble pitch her aim she frames.<br />
+I must relate to my great Master <span class=
+"smcap">James</span>,<br />
+The Caledonian annual peaceful war;<br />
+How noble minds do eternize their fames,<br />
+By martial meeting in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>:<br />
+How thousand gallant spirits came near and far,<br />
+With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns,<br />
+That all the troop to men of judgment, are<br />
+The God of Wars great never conquered sons,<br />
+The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg
+53]</a></span>And last the victor on the vanquished feasts.</p>
+<br />
+
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="I" src=
+"images/tay_page_45.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+f sport like this can on the
+mountains be,<br />
+Where <i>Ph&oelig;bus</i> flames can never melt the snow;<br />
+Then let who list delight in vales below,<br />
+Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me:<br />
+What braver object can man's eyesight see,<br />
+Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights,<br />
+As if they were prepared for sundry fights,<br />
+Yet all in sweet society agree?<br />
+Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,<br />
+'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills,<br />
+Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs,<br />
+Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills.<br />
+Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat,<br />
+The Highland games and minds, are high and great.<br /></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Being come to our lodgings, there
+was such baking, boiling, roasting, and stewing, as if Cook
+Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil in his feathers:
+and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an indifferent
+May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of <i>Mar</i> will give
+any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that
+are as good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they
+were in any place near the Thames, or<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> any
+other portable river) the best earldom in England or Scotland
+either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing there, as
+would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world)
+for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers,
+barks, and water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world
+these forty years.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">This sounds like a lie to an
+unbeliever; but I and many thousands do know that I speak within
+the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is the pity) they do
+grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in such rocky
+mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be passable,
+either with boat, horse, or cart.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus having spent certain days in
+hunting in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>, we went to the next county
+called <i>Badenoch</i>, belonging to the Earl of <i>Enzie</i>,
+where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had;
+after four or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for
+that year; and took our journey toward a strong house of the
+Earl's, called <i>Ruthven</i> in <i>Badenoch</i>, where my Lord
+of <i>Enzie</i> and his noble Countess (being daughter to the
+Earl of <i>Argyle</i>) did give us most noble welcome three
+days.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence we went to a place
+called <i>Balloch Castle</i>,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id=
+"FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class=
+"fnanchor">[25]</a> a fair and stately house, a worthy gentleman
+being the owner of it, called the Laird of <i>Grant</i>;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg
+55]</a></span>his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended
+being sister to the right Honourable Earl of <i>Athol</i>, and to
+Sir <i>Patrick Murray</i> Knight; she being both inwardly and
+outwardly plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature:
+so that our cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less
+than they could afford us. There stayed there four days, four
+Earls, one Lord, divers Knights and Gentlemen, and their
+servants, footmen and horses; and every meal four long tables
+furnished with all varieties: our first and second course being
+three score dishes at one board; and after that always a banquet:
+and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to
+<i>Edinburgh</i> I think I had there drunk my last.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The fifth day with much ado we
+gate from thence to <i>Tarnaway</i>, a goodly house of the Earl
+of <i>Murrays</i>,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id=
+"FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class=
+"fnanchor">[26]</a> where that Right Honourable Lord and his Lady
+did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all
+variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed
+the County of <i>Murray</i> is the most pleasantest and plentiful
+country in all <i>Scotland</i>; being plain land, that a coach
+may be driven more than four and thirty miles one way in it,
+alongst by the sea-coast.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence I went to <i>Elgin</i>
+in <i>Murray</i>,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id=
+"FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class=
+"fnanchor">[27]</a> an ancient City, where there stood a fair and
+beautiful church with three steeples, the walls of it and the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg
+56]</a></span>steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows,
+and many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy
+personages all broken and defaced: this was done in the time when
+ruin bare rule, and Knox knocked down churches.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Elgin</i> we went to the
+Bishop of <i>Murray</i> his house which is called <i>Spiny</i>,
+or <i>Spinay</i>: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name
+of <i>Douglas</i>, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted
+the honour of himself and his guests.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence we departed to the
+Lord Marquess of <i>Huntlys</i> to a sumptuous house of his,
+named the <i>Bog of Geethe</i>, where our entertainment was like
+himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days
+stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the
+Lords to depart towards <i>Edinburgh</i>: the Noble Marquess, the
+Earl of <i>Mar</i>, <i>Murray</i>, <i>Enzie</i>, <i>Buchan</i>,
+and the Lord <i>Erskine</i>; all these, I thank them, gave me
+gold to defray my charges in my journey.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So after five and thirty days
+hunting and travel I returning, past by another stately mansion
+of the Lord Marquesses, called <i>Stroboggy</i>, and so over
+<i>Carny</i> mount to <i>Brechin</i>, where a wench that was born
+deaf and dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep)
+and she opening the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had
+I been a <i>Sardanapalus</i>, or a <i>Heliogabulus</i>, I think
+that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg
+57]</a></span> either the great travel over the mountains had
+tamed me; or if not, her beauty could never have moved me. The
+best parts of her were, that her breath was as sweet as
+sugar-candian,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id=
+"FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class=
+"fnanchor">[28]</a> being very well shouldered beneath the waste;
+and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed
+her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But
+howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of
+my sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no
+sooner knew who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out
+of my chamber; and for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my
+door with a great chair.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus having escaped one of the
+seven deadly sins as at <i>Brechin</i>, I departed from thence to
+a town called <i>Forfor</i>; and from thence to <i>Dundee</i>,
+and so to <i>Kinghorn</i>, <i>Burntisland</i>, and so to
+<i>Edinburgh</i>, where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of
+falls and bruises, which I received in my travel in the Highland
+mountainous hunting. Great welcome I had showed me all my stay at
+<i>Edinburgh</i>, by many worthy gentlemen, namely, old Master
+<i>George Todrigg</i>, Master <i>Henry Livingston</i>, Master
+<i>James Henderson</i>, Master <i>John Maxwell</i>, and a number
+of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may
+be imagined.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg
+58]</a></span></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Now the day before I came from
+<i>Edinburgh</i>, I went to <i>Leith</i>, where I found my long
+approved and assured good friend Master <i>Benjamin Jonson</i>,
+at one Master <i>John Stuarts</i> house; I thank him for his
+great kindness towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave
+me a piece of gold of two and twenty shillings<a name=
+"FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> to drink his health
+in <i>England</i>. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id=
+"Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>And withal, willed me to remember his
+kind commendations to all his friends: So with a friendly
+farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see him in a
+worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that know
+his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much
+respective love he is worthily entertained.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Leith</i> I returned
+to <i>Edinburgh</i>, and within the port or gate, called the
+<i>Nether-Bow</i>, I discharged my pockets of all the money I
+had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my
+first coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came
+moneyless out of it again; having in company to convey me out,
+certain gentlemen, amongst the which Master <i>James
+Acherson</i>, Laird of <i>Gasford</i>, a gentleman that brought
+me to his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id=
+"Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>house, where with great entertainment
+he and his good wife did welcome me.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">On the morrow he sent one of his
+men to bring me to a place called <i>Adam</i>, to Master <i>John
+Acmootye</i> his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's
+Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master
+<i>Alexander</i>, and Master <i>James Acmootye</i>, I found both
+cheer and welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any
+former place.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Amongst our viands that we had
+there, I must not forget the Sole and Goose (<i>sic</i>), a most
+delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in a little rock
+called the <i>Bass</i>, which stands two miles into the sea. It
+is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat
+oysters, standing at a side-board, a little before dinner,
+unsanctified without grace; and after it is eaten, it must be
+well liquored with two or three good rouses<a name=
+"FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> of sherry or canary
+sack. The Lord or owner of the <i>Bass</i> doth profit at the
+least two hundred pound yearly by those geese; the <i>Bass</i>
+itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a mile
+in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one
+small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in
+it; and on the top of it a well of pure fresh water.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Adam</i>, Master
+<i>John</i> and Master <i>James Acmootye</i> went to the town of
+<i>Dunbar</i> with me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61"
+id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>where ten Scottish pints of wine
+were consumed, and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at
+Master <i>James Baylies</i> house I took leave, and Master
+<i>James Acmootye</i> coming for <i>England</i>, said, that if I
+would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt
+that place and <i>London</i>. Now I having no money nor means for
+travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last
+my want persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's
+undeserved courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place
+called <i>Cockburnspath</i>, where we lodged at an inn, the like
+of which I dare say, is not in any of his Majesty's Dominions.
+And for to show my thankfulness to Master <i>William Arnot</i>
+and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their bountiful
+entertainment of guests, which is this:</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty
+men and horses come to lodge at their house, the men shall have
+flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all variety of good cheer,
+good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall want neither hay
+or provender: and at the morning at their departure the reckoning
+is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his chief
+delight being only to give strangers entertainment <i>gratis</i>:
+and I am sure, that in <i>Scotland</i> beyond <i>Edinburgh</i>, I
+have been at houses like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62"
+id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> castles for building; the master
+of the house his beaver being his blue bonnet, one that will wear
+no other shirts, but of the flax that grows on his own ground,
+and of his wife's, daughters', or servants' spinning; that hath
+his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his own sheep's
+backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer,
+draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn
+bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains
+thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day
+relieving three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides
+all this, can give noble entertainment for four or five days
+together to five or six earls and lords, besides knights,
+gentlemen and their followers, if they be three or four hundred
+men, and horse of them, where they shall not only feed but feast,
+and not feast but banquet, this is a man that desires to know
+nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose greatest
+cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and
+hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless
+fashions, he never tries his strength to bear four or five
+hundred acres on his back at once, his legs are always at
+liberty, not being fettered with golden garters, and manacled
+with artificial roses, whose weight (sometime) is the last
+reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+worthy housekeepers there are in <i>Scotland</i>, amongst some of
+them I was entertained; from whence I did truly gather these
+aforesaid observations.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Cockburnspath</i>,
+we rode to <i>Berwick</i>, where the worthy old Soldier and
+ancient Knight, Sir <i>William Bowyer</i>, made me welcome, but
+contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master <i>James
+Acmootye</i> paid all charges: but at <i>Berwick</i> there was a
+grievous chance happened, which I think not fit the relation to
+be omitted.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In the river of <i>Tweed</i>,
+which runs by <i>Berwick</i>, are taken by fishermen that dwell
+there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many households
+and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but (how
+long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy
+whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long
+amongst them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas
+last, on a Sunday, the salmons played in such great abundance in
+the river, that some of the fishermen (contrary to God's law and
+their own order) took boats and nets and fished, and caught near
+three hundred salmons; but from that time until Michaelmas day
+that I was there, which was nine weeks, and heard the report of
+it, and saw the poor people's miserable lamentations, they had
+not seen one salmon in the river; and some of them were in
+despair that they should never see any more there; affirming
+it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg
+64]</a></span> to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation
+of the Sabbath.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The thirtieth of September we rode
+from <i>Berwick</i> to <i>Belford</i> from <i>Belford</i> to
+<i>Alnwick</i>, the next day from <i>Alnwick</i> to
+<i>Newcastle</i>, where I found the noble Knight, Sir <i>Henry
+Witherington</i>; who, because I would have no gold nor silver,
+gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf of bread that I had
+given him two and twenty years before, at the Island of
+<i>Flores</i>, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at
+<i>Newcastle</i> a great many of my worthy friends, which were
+all coming for <i>London</i>, namely, Master <i>Robert Hay</i>,
+and Master <i>David Drummond</i>, where I was welcomed at Master
+<i>Nicholas Tempests</i> house. From <i>Newcastle</i> I rode with
+those gentlemen to <i>Durham</i>, to <i>Darlington</i>, to
+<i>Northallerton</i>, and to <i>Topcliffe</i> in
+<i>Yorkshire</i>, where I took my leave of them, and would needs
+try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and see the city of
+<i>York</i>, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good
+friend, Master Doctor <i>Hudson</i> one of his Majesty's
+chaplains, who went with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster
+Church there, and the most admirable, rare-wrought,
+unfellowed<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id=
+"FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class=
+"fnanchor">[31]</a> chapter house.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>York</i> I rode to
+<i>Doncaster</i>, where my horses were well fed at the Bear, but
+myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir <i>Robert
+Anstruther</i> at his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id=
+"Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir
+<i>Robert Swifts</i> house, he being then High Sheriff of
+<i>Yorkshire</i>, where with their good Ladies, and the right
+Honourable the Lord <i>Sanquhar</i>, I was stayed two nights and
+one day, Sir <i>Robert Anstruther</i> (I thank him) not only
+paying for my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a
+letter to <i>Newark</i> upon <i>Trent</i>, twenty eight miles in
+my way, where Master <i>George Atkinson</i> mine host made me as
+welcome, as if I had been a French Lord, and what was to be paid,
+as I called for nothing, I paid as much; and left the reckoning
+with many thanks to Sir <i>Robert Anstruther</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Newark</i>, with
+another gentleman that overtook me, we came at night to
+<i>Stamford</i>, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead)
+where I delivered a letter from the Lord <i>Sanquhar</i>; which
+caused Master <i>Bates</i> and his wife, being the master and
+mistress of the house, to make me and the gentleman that was with
+me great cheer for nothing.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Stamford</i> the next day
+we rode to <i>Huntington</i>, where we lodged at the Postmaster's
+house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is <i>Riggs</i>. He was
+informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless
+progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with
+us, and very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and
+sugar, and four jugs of beer. He did drink and<span class=
+'pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> begin
+healths like a horse-leech and swallowed down his cups without
+feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or nine pound of sponge in
+his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank post, striving and
+calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or to make us
+men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like a
+jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the
+terrible shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn
+for his superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">But leaving him, I left
+<i>Huntington</i>, and rode on the Sunday to <i>Puckeridge</i>,
+where Master <i>Holland</i> at the Falcon, (mine old
+acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend,
+my man, and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid
+him with, not a penny of money.</p>
+<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The next day I came to
+<i>London</i>, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I went to a
+house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to
+<i>Islington</i>, to the sign of the Maidenhead,<a name=
+"FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> staying till
+Wednesday, that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other,
+but that Wednesday was my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67"
+id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>first coming; where with all love
+I was entertained with much good cheer: and after supper we had a
+play of the Life and Death of <i>Guy of Warwick</i>,<a name=
+"FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> played by the Right
+Honourable the Earl of <i>Derby</i> his men. And so on the
+Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I came home to
+my house in <i>London</i>.</p>
+<table summary="deco" align="center" style=
+"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src=
+"images/tay_page_71a.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3>THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS<br />
+AND OTHERS.</h3>
+<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">
+<table summary="deco" align="left" style=
+"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="T" src=
+"images/tay_page_71b.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+hus did I neither spend, or beg,
+or ask,<br />
+By any course, direct or indirectly:<br />
+But in each tittle I performed my task,<br />
+According to my bill most circumspectly.<br />
+I vow to God, I have done <span class="smcap">Scotland</span>
+wrong,<br />
+(And (justly) against me it may bring an action)<br />
+I have not given it that right which doth belong,<br />
+For which I am half guilty of detraction:<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg
+68]</a></span>Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,<br />
+Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,<br />
+And so my name I should in question draw,<br />
+Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter:<br />
+Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen,<br />
+That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap,<br />
+In such abundant food for beasts and men;<br />
+That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap.<br />
+Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;<br />
+And what I do believe, I know is true:<br />
+And what is true unto your hands I give,<br />
+That what I give, may be believed of you.<br />
+But as for him that says I lie or dote,<br />
+I do return, and turn the lie in's throat.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thus gentlemen, amongst you take
+my ware,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">You share my thanks, and I your
+moneys share.</span><br /></p>
+<p style="margin-left: 12.5em; height: 4pt;"><i>Yours in all
+observance and gratefulness,</i></p>
+<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;height: 4pt;">ever to be
+commanded,</p>
+<br />
+<p style="margin-left: 20.5em;"><span class="smcap">John
+Taylor</span>.<br /></p>
+<br />
+<br />
+<h4>FINIS.</h4>
+<table summary="deco" align="center" style=
+"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;">
+<tr>
+<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src=
+"images/tay_page_72.png" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Provant.</span>&mdash;Provender; provision.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Fegary.</span>&mdash;A vagary.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Trundle.</span>&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, John Trundle of the
+sign of <i>No-body</i> (see note page 6).</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> It is
+reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom of
+"Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue&mdash;or,
+<i>No-body</i> would have taken the oath.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Named Lean and Fen.</span>&mdash;Some jest is intended
+here on the Host's name.&mdash;Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of
+<span class="smcap">A. Fennel</span>.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">No-Body</span> was the singular sign of John Trundle, a
+ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who
+seems to have accompanied our author as far as <i>Whetstone</i>
+on his "Penniless Pilgrimage"&mdash;and, certainly up to this
+point a very "wet" one!] In one of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is
+introduced, "attyred in a payre of Breeches, which were made to
+come up to his neck, with his armes out at his pockets and cap
+drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for John Trundle and
+are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of No-Body."
+A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at Britwell
+House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a
+woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a
+torn money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken
+pots, pans, bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &amp;c.
+Above him is a scroll in black-letter:&mdash;</p>
+<p>"<span class="bantq" style=
+"font-size: 14pt;">Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame</span>."</p>
+<p>The ballad commences as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<p><br />
+"Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe,<br />
+So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">But nowe, beholde, here I
+am,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Whom all the worlde doeth
+diffame;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Long have they also scorned
+me,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">And locked my mouthe for speking
+free.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">As many a Godly man they have so
+served</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Which unto them God's truth hath
+shewed;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Of such they have burned and
+hanged some.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">That unto their ydolatrye wold
+not come:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The Ladye Truthe they have locked
+in cage,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Saying of her Nobodye had
+knowledge.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">For as much nowe as they name
+Nobodye</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">I thinke verilye they speke of
+me:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Whereffore to answere I nowe
+beginne&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The locke of my mouthe is opened
+with ginne,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Wrought by no man, but by God's
+grace,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Unto whom be prayse in every
+place," &amp;c.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 8em;">Larwood and Hotten's <i>History
+of Signboards</i>.</span><br /></p></div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Pulse.</span>&mdash;All sorts of leguminous seeds.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> See Dedication
+to <i>The Scourge of Baseness</i>.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <span class=
+"smcap">Master Doctor Holland.</span>&mdash;The once well-known
+Philemon Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age,"
+published translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History,"
+1601; Camden's "Britannica," &amp;c. He is said to have used in
+translation more paper and fewer pens than any other writer
+before or since, and who "would not let Suetonius be
+Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Edmund Branthwaite.</span>&mdash;Robert
+Branthwaite, William Branthwaite <i>Cant.</i>, and "Thy assured
+friend" R. B., have each written Commendatory Verses to
+<span class="smcap">all the Works of John Taylor</span>. London
+1630. And Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets,"
+has the following:&mdash;"One might have hoped in these parts for
+a happy meeting between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal
+memory; indeed it is likely that the Water-Poet and the
+Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and that the latter may have
+introduced him to his connections hereabout, Branthwaite being
+the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother having married
+a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Pierce Penniless</span>, by Thomas Nash.
+London, 1592.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> This
+"ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is historically known
+as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Receite.</span>&mdash;A receptacle.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Vaustity.</span>&mdash;Emptiness.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> <i>See</i>
+Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb. 1618.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Coryatizing.</span>&mdash;Thomas Coryate, an
+English traveller, who called himself the "Odcombian
+leg-stretcher." He was the son of the rector of Odcombe, and in
+1611 published an account of his travels on the Continent with
+the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily gobled up in
+five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia, commonly
+called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some
+parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the
+hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now
+dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling members of this
+Kingdome, &amp;c. London, printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611."
+Taylor had an especial grudge against Coryat, for having had
+influence enough to procure his "Laugh and be Fat"&mdash;directed
+against the traveller&mdash;to be burned; and that he never
+failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many
+pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities,"
+even after his death.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Tophet.</span>&mdash;The Hebrew name for
+<i>Hell</i>.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Cimmerian.</span>&mdash;Pertaining to the
+Cimmerii, or their country; extremely and perpetually dark. The
+Cimmerii were an ancient people of the land now called the
+Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy fogs, was fabled
+to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient poets
+also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near
+Lake Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to
+visit.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Perth.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Braemar.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Virginal Jack.</span>&mdash;A keyed
+instrument resembling a spinet.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Red-shanks.</span>&mdash;A contemptuous
+appellation for Scottish Highland clansmen and native Irish, with
+reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and "As lively as a
+<i>Red-Shank</i>" is still a proverbial saying:&mdash;"And we
+came into Ireland, where they would have landed in the north
+parts. But I would not, because there the inhabitants were all
+<i>Red-shanks</i>."&mdash;<i>Sir Walter Raleigh's</i> Speech on
+the Scaffold.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Put me into that Shape.</span>&mdash;That is,
+invested him in Highland attire.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> "Probably
+the district around the skirts of Ben
+Muicdui."&mdash;<i>Chambers'</i> Domestic Annals of Scotland.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Balloch Castle.</span>&mdash;Now called
+Castle-Grant.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Moray.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Morayland.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Sugar-Candian.</span>&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>,
+Sugar-candy.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">A Piece of Gold of Two-and-Twenty
+Shillings.</span>&mdash;"This was a considerable present; but
+Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his acquaintance. All
+his pleasures were social; and while health and fortune smiled
+upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents to
+those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's
+concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to
+Drummond is considered:&mdash;but there is one <i>evil that
+walks</i>, which keener eyes than John's have often failed to
+discover.&mdash;I have only to add, in justice to this honest man
+(Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the subject of it. He paid
+the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's memory:&mdash;the
+verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better to
+give."&mdash;Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's
+Ben Jonson's Works, p. xli.</p>
+<p>"In the
+summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben
+Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives
+for a journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be
+curiosity regarding a country from which he knew that his family
+was derived, his grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of
+Annandale. He had many friends too, particularly among the
+connections of the Lennox family, whom he might be glad to see at
+their own houses. Among those with whom he had amicable
+intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the prime of
+life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of
+Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is
+probable that Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and
+indulged together in the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar
+scenes. Indeed, there is a prevalent belief in Scotland that it
+was mainly to see Drummond at Hawthornden that Jonson came so far
+from home, and certain it is, from Drummond's report of his
+'<i>Conversations</i>,' that he designed 'to write a Fisher or
+Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play&mdash;and make the stage of it on the
+Lomond Lake&mdash;he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot
+Pilgrimage to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in
+one who found so much to admire where so little had been known,
+he spoke of entitling '<span class="smcap">A Discovery</span>.'
+Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he called
+Edinburgh&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">'The Heart of Scotland,
+Britain's other eye,'</span><br /></p>
+<p>has not
+been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work
+contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's
+letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be
+regretted that we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by
+so vigorous a pen as that of the author of
+<i>Sejanual</i>"&mdash;<i>Chambers'</i> Domestic
+Annals of Scotland, vol. 1.</p>
+<p>Whether
+Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and
+prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would
+now be difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks
+in his Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &amp;c.," he had
+been accused by the critics that he "<i>did undergo this project,
+either in malice, or mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson</i>." It
+is quite certain that Taylor lost no time in getting his
+"Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the author" immediately
+on his return to London on the fifteenth of October 1618.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Rouse.</span>&mdash;A full glass, a
+bumper.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Unfellowed.</span>&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, not
+matched.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">To Islington to the Sign of the
+Maindenhead.</span>&mdash;This then roadside Public-house, we are
+informed from recent enquiries, was situate at the corner of
+Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's Cross, from a
+statue of George IV.&mdash;a most execrable performance taken
+down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named
+the Victoria, while Maiden Lane&mdash;an ancient way leading from
+Battle Bridge to Highgate Hill&mdash;is known now as York
+Road.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name=
+"Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href=
+"#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Guy of Warwick.</span>&mdash;There are
+several versions and editions of this work. In the book of the
+Stationers' Company, John Trundle&mdash;he at the sign of
+<span class="smcap">No-Body</span>&mdash;on the 15th of January,
+1619, entered "a play, called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of
+Warwick, written by John Day and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's
+Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.&mdash;"Well, if he read this with
+patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master Trundle
+yonder, the rest of my mortality."&mdash;<i>Ben Jonson's</i>
+Every Man in his Humour, act i. sc. 2.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="tr">
+<h4>Corrections Made by Transcriber</h4>
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his."</li>
+<li>Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten."</li>
+<li>Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes."</li>
+<li>Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be."</li>
+<li>Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage
+       Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor
+
+Author: John Taylor
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
+
+1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes missing or
+   missplaced in the original. These have been made consistent with
+   modern convention.
+
+2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been added.
+
+3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end
+   the book.
+
+4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at the
+   end of the book.
+
+
+
+THE
+PENNYLES
+PILGRIMAGE,
+
+OR
+
+The Money-lesse perambulation,
+
+of JOHN TAYLOR, _Alias_
+the Kings Majesties
+_Water-Poet_.
+
+HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT
+from _London_ to _Edenborough_ in _Scotland_, not carrying
+any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing,
+or Asking Meate, drinke or
+Lodging.
+
+_With his Description of his Entertainment_
+in all places of his Journey, and a true Report
+of the unmatchable Hunting in the _Brea_
+of _Marre_ and _Badenoch_ in
+_Scotland_.
+
+With other Observations, some serious and
+worthy of Memory, and some merry
+and not hurtfull to be Remembred.
+
+_Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)
+all is true._
+
+LONDON
+
+Printed by _Edw: Allde_, at the charges of the
+Author. 1618
+
+
+
+
+TO THE TRULY
+NOBLE AND RIGHT
+HONORABLE LORD GEORGE MARQUIS
+of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of
+Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's
+Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master
+of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen
+of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight
+of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and
+one of his Majesty's most Honorable
+Privy Council of both the
+Kingdoms of England
+and Scotland.
+
+
+Right Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I was
+entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, Worshipful
+Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in England and Scotland.
+So now your Lordship's inclination hath incited, or invited my poor muse
+to shelter herself under the shadow of your honorable patronage, not
+that there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in all
+humility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that
+is able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.
+
+          Your Honors,
+
+              In all observance,
+
+                    JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS,
+BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER,
+MY GENERAL SALUTATION.
+
+
+_Reader, these Travels of mine into_ Scotland, _were not undertaken,
+neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised by
+myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends both in this Kingdom of_
+England, _and that of_ Scotland, _and because I would be an eye-witness
+of divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas many
+shallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by
+others, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage
+of Master_ Benjamin Jonson, _I vow by the faith of a Christian, that
+their imaginations are all wide, for he is a gentleman, to whom I am so
+much obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received from
+him, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudent
+or ungrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own
+instigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so much
+goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if you
+expect_
+
+That I should write of cities' situations,
+Or that of countries I should make relations:
+Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills,
+Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills,
+Of shires, and piers, and memorable things,
+Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings,
+I touch not those, they not belong to me;
+But if such things as these you long to see,
+Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read
+The learned _Camden_, or laborious _Speed_.
+
+     _And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest
+
+          Yours in all thankfulness:_
+
+                JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+TAYLOR'S
+PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.
+
+
+   List Lordlings, list (if you have lust to list)
+   I write not here a tale of had I wist:
+   But you shall hear of travels, and relations,
+   Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.
+   And he that not believes what here is writ,
+   Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.
+   The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)
+   One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen,
+   And to relate all things in order duly,
+   'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July,
+   Saint _Revels_ day, the almanack will tell ye
+   The sign in _Virgo_ was, or near the belly:
+   The moon full three days old, the wind full south;
+   At these times I began this trick of youth.
+   I speak not of the tide, for understand,
+   My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land,
+   Though in the morning I began to go
+   Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,
+   That make what haste I could, the sun was set,
+   E're from the gates of _London_ I could get.
+   At last I took my latest leave thus late,
+   At the Bell Inn, that's _extra Aldersgate_.
+   There stood a horse that my provant[1] should carry,
+   From that place to the end of my fegary,[2]
+   My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag,
+   That with good understanding bore my bag:
+   And of good carriage he himself did show,
+   These things are excellent in a beast you know.
+   There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees)
+   I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese
+   With roses, barberries, of each conserves,
+   And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves:
+   And I entreat you take these words for no-lies,
+   I had good _Aqua vitae, Rosa_ so-lies:
+   With sweet _Ambrosia_, (the gods' own drink)
+   Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think,
+   Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,
+   That could a daring saucy stomach foil.
+   This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,
+   Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine,
+   I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,
+   And went that night as far as _Islington_.
+   There did I find (I dare affirm it bold)
+   A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old,
+   But surely it was painted, like a whore,
+   And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door,
+   Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,
+   May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.
+   There did my loving friendly host begin
+   To entertain me freely to his inn:
+   And there my friends, and good associates,
+   Each one to mirth himself accommodates.
+   _At Well-head_ both for welcome, and for cheer,
+   Having a good _New ton_, of good stale beer:
+   There did we _Trundle_[3] down health, after health,
+   (Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)
+   Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk,
+   And only _No-body_[3] was three parts drunk.
+   The morrow next, Wednesday Saint _Swithin's_ day,
+   From ancient _Islington_ I took my way.
+   At _Holywell_ I was enforced carouse,
+   Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House.
+   But there's a help to make amends for all,
+   That though the ale be great, the pots be small.
+   At _Highgate_ Hill to a strange house I went,
+   And saw the people were to eating bent,
+   In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought,
+   But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.
+   I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant,
+   But I did practise thus before my want;
+   Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,
+   Before the day he'll often exercise.
+   So I began to put in use, at first
+   These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst.
+   Close to the Gate,[4] there dwelt a worthy man,
+   That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can,
+   Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil,
+   Do call him _Robin Pluto_, or the devil.
+   But finding him a devil, freely hearted,
+   With friendly farewells I took leave and parted,
+   And as alongst I did my journey take,
+   I drank at _Broom's well_, for pure fashion's sake,
+   Two miles I travelled then without a bait,
+   The Saracen's Head at _Whetstone_ entering straight,
+   I found an host, that might lead an host of men,
+   Exceeding fat, yet named _Lean_, and _Fen_.[5]
+   And though we make small reckoning of him here,
+   He's known to be a very great man there.
+   There I took leave of all my company,
+   Bade all farewell, yet spake to _No-body_.
+   Good reader think not strange, what I compile,
+   For _No-body_ was with me all this while.
+   And _No-body_ did drink, and, wink, and scink,
+   And on occasion freely spent his chink.
+   If anyone desire to know the man,
+   Walk, stumble, _Trundle_, but in _Barbican_.
+   There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd,
+   And in that street kind _No-body_[6] is hanged.
+   But leaving him unto his matchless fame,
+   I to St. _Albans_ in the evening came,
+   Where Master _Taylor_, at the Saracen's Head,
+   Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed.
+   The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all,
+   Saved me a labour, that I need not call,
+   The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round,
+   And in a word great kindness there I found,
+   For which both to my cousin, and his men,
+   I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.
+   Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,
+   And then I went plain _Dunstable_ highway.
+   My very heart with drought methought did shrink,
+   I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.
+   Which made me call to mind, that instant time,
+   That drunkenness was a most sinful crime.
+   When _Puddle-hill_ I footed down, and past
+   A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last.
+   There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread,
+   We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed.
+   And whilst two hours we there did take our ease,
+   My nag made shift to mump green pulse[7] and peas.
+   Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,
+   And drank the water of a brook hard by.
+   Away toward _Hockley_ in the Hole, we make,
+   When straight a horseman did me overtake,
+   Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin,
+   I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin,
+   I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink,
+   And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.
+   Away rode he, but like an honest man,
+   I found at _Hockley_ standing at the Swan,
+   A formal tapster, with a jug and glass,
+   Who did arrest me: I most willing was
+   To try the action, and straight put in bail,
+   My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale,
+   To quit this kindness, I most willing am,
+   The man that paid for all, his name is _Dam_,
+   At the Green Dragon, against _Grays-Inn_ gate,
+   He lives in good repute, and honest state.
+   I forward went in this my roving race,
+   To _Stony Stratford_ I toward night did pace,
+   My mind was fixed through the town to pass,
+   To find some lodging in the hay or grass,
+   But at the _Queen's Arms_, from the window there,
+   A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,
+   Call _Taylor, Taylor_, and be hanged come hither,
+   I looked for small entreaty and went thither,
+   There were some friends, which I was glad to see,
+   Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.
+   On Friday morn, as I would take my way,
+   My friendly host entreated me to stay,
+   Because it rained, he told me I should have
+   Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave.
+   I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor,
+   But if I live, I will requite him better.
+   (From _Stony Stratford_) the way hard with stones,
+   Did founder me, and vex me to the bones.
+   In blustering weather, both for wind and rain,
+   Through _Towcester_ I trotted with much pain,
+   Two miles from thence, we sat us down and dined,
+   Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.
+   We having fed, away incontinent,
+   With weary pace toward _Daventry_ we went.
+   Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,
+   And told me he would leave a jug of beer,
+   At _Daventry_ at the Horse-shoe for my use.
+   I thought it no good manners to refuse,
+   But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,
+   Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,
+   Came limping after to that stony town,
+   Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down.
+   There had my friend performed the words he said,
+   And at the door a jug of liquor staid,
+   The folks were all informed, before I came,
+   How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,
+   Which caused mine hostess from her door come out,
+   (Having a great wart rampant on her snout.)
+   The tapsters, hostlers, one another call,
+   The chamberlains with admiration all,
+   Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,
+   As if some monster sent from the _Mogul_,
+   Some elephant from _Africa_, I had been,
+   Or some strange beast from the _Amazonian_ Queen.
+   As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl,
+   Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl,
+   So did these brainless asses, all amazed,
+   With admirable _Nonsense_ talked and gazed,
+   They knew my state (although not told by me)
+   That I could scarcely go, they all could see,
+   They drank of my beer, that to me was given,
+   But gave me not a drop to make all even,
+   And that which in my mind was most amiss,
+   My hostess she stood by and saw all this,
+   Had she but said, come near the house my friend,
+   For this day here shall be your journey's end.
+   Then had she done the thing which [she] did not,
+   And I in kinder words had paid the shot.
+   I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)
+   If they to _Daventry_ do chance to come,
+   That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance,
+   Or accident into that house they glance,
+   Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,
+   My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,[8]
+   Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will,
+   You for your money shall be welcome still.
+   From thence that night, although my bones were sore,
+   I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:
+   The way to _Dunchurch_, foul with dirt and mire,
+   Able, I think, both man and horse to tire.
+   On _Dunsmoor_ Heath, a hedge doth there enclose
+   Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.
+   Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly learn,
+   With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern,
+   Of which we made a field-bed in the field,
+   Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield.
+   There with my mother earth, I thought it fit
+   To lodge, and yet no incest did commit:
+   My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs,
+   And being weary, I went up no stairs:
+   The sky my canopy, bright _Phoebe_ shined
+   Sweet bawling _Zephyrus_ breathed gentle wind,
+   In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night,
+   Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light;
+   There barricadoed with a bank lay we
+   Below the lofty branches of a tree,
+   There my bed-fellows and companions were,
+   My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer:
+   But yet for all this most confused rout,
+   We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out.
+   Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster,
+   Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;
+   And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,)
+   Allowed us a large covering and a blanket;
+   _Auroras_ face 'gan light our lodging dark,
+   We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark,
+   Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,
+   I travelled to the city _Coventry_.
+   There Master Doctor _Holland_[9] caused me stay
+   The day of _Saturn_ and the Sabbath day.
+   Most friendly welcome, he me did afford,
+   I was so entertained at bed and board,
+   Which as I dare not brag how much it was,
+   I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,
+   But with thanks many I remember it,
+   (Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ,
+   He used me like his son, more than a friend,
+   And he on Monday his commends did send
+   To _Newhall_, where a gentleman did dwell,
+   Who by his name is hight _Sacheverell_.
+   The Tuesday _July's_ one and twentieth day,
+   I to the city _Lichfield_ took my way,
+   At _Sutton Coldfield_ with some friends I met,
+   And much ado I had from thence to get,
+   There I was almost put unto my trumps,
+   My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;
+   But noble _Vulcan_, a mad smuggy smith,
+   All reparations me did furnish with.
+   The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod,
+   And he referred the payment unto God.
+   I found a friend, when I to _Lichfield_ came,
+   A joiner, and _John Piddock_ is his name.
+   He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,
+   And he did furnish me with good provant:
+   He offered me some money, I refused it,
+   And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it,
+   That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass,
+   Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,
+   With here and there a pelting scattered village,
+   Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:
+   For all the day, nor yet the night that followed.
+   One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.
+   At night I came to a stony town called _Stone_.
+   Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:
+   I therefore through the streets held on my pace,
+   Some two miles farther to some resting place:
+   At last I spied a meadow newly mowed,
+   The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed:
+   We made a breach, and entered horse and man,
+   There our pavilion, we to pitch began,
+   Which we erected with green broom and hay,
+   To expel the cold, and keep the rain away;
+   The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,
+   And presently there fell a mighty shower,
+   Which without intermission down did pour,
+   From ten a night, until the morning's four.
+   We all that time close in our couch did lie,
+   Which being well compacted kept us dry.
+   The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,
+   And so a temperate diet we did keep.
+   The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs,
+   We being as ready as we had been dogs:
+   We need not stand upon long ready making,
+   But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:
+   And for I found my host and hostess kind,
+   I like a true man left my sheets behind.
+   That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,
+   Unto a town that is _Newcastle_ named.
+   (Not that _Newcastle_ standing upon _Tyne_)
+   But this town situation doth confine
+   Near _Cheshire_, in the famous county _Stafford_,
+   And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;
+     But now my versing muse craves some repose,
+     And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose.
+
+In this town of _Newcastle_, I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what
+the next town was called, that was in my way toward _Lancaster_, he
+holding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute,
+piped me this answer, and said, _Talk-on-the-Hill_; I asked him again
+what he said _Talk-on-the-Hill_: I demanded the third time, and the
+third time he answered me as he did before, _Talk-on-the-Hill_. I began
+to grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my way
+as well there as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town
+was four miles off me, and that the name of it was, _Talk-on-the-Hill_:
+I had not travelled above two miles farther: but my last night's supper
+(which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by my
+stomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun:
+I have fared better at three Suns many times before now, in _Aldersgate
+Street_, _Cripplegate_, and new _Fish Street_; but here is the odds, at
+those Suns they will come upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting
+as a tailor's bill of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls
+not half so heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law
+in their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of debt,
+and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence there is no
+appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the material Sunshine, we
+eat a substantial dinner, and like miserable guests we did budget up the
+reversions.
+
+   And now with sleep my muse hath eased her brain
+   I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.
+   That which we could not have, we freely spared,
+   And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.
+   We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)
+   And kindly every step entreats me stay,
+   The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,
+   One foot went forward, the other back would slip,
+   This weary day, when I had almost past,
+   I came unto Sir _Urian Leigh's_ at last,
+   At _Adlington_, near _Macclesfield_ he doth dwell,
+   Beloved, respected, and reputed well.
+   Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,
+   From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,
+   At his own table I did daily eat,
+   Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,
+   He would have given me gold or silver either,
+   But I, with many thanks, received neither,
+   And thus much without flattery I dare swear,
+   He is a knight beloved far and near,
+   First he's beloved of his God above,
+   (Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love)
+   Next with a wife and children he is blest,
+   Each having God's fear planted in their breast.
+   With fair demaines, revenue of good lands,
+   He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands,
+   And as he's happy in these outward things,
+   So from his inward mind continual springs
+   Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety,
+   Good hospitable works of charity,
+   Just in his actions, constant in his word,
+   And one that won his honour with the sword,
+   He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight,
+   But he knows when, and how to speak or fight,
+   I cannot flatter him, say what I can,
+   He's every way a complete gentleman.
+   I write not this, for what he did to me,
+   But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see,
+   Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame
+   But to make others imitate the same,
+   For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow,
+   I would his worthy worth more amply show,
+   But I already fear have been too bold,
+   And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.
+   Thanks to his sons and servants every one,
+   Both males and females all, excepting none.
+   To bear a letter he did me require,
+   Near _Manchester_, unto a good Esquire:
+   His kinsman _Edmund Prestwitch_, he ordained,
+   That I was at _Manchester_ entertained
+   Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,
+   For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass;
+   This gentleman not only gave harbour,
+   But in the morning sent me to his barber,
+   Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,
+   Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.
+   But in conclusion, when his work was ended,
+   His glass informed, my face was much amended.
+   And for the kindness he to me did show,
+   God grant his customers beards faster grow,
+   That though the time of year be dear or cheap,
+   From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.
+   Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail,
+   He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did fail,
+   Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt,
+   Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:
+   Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?
+   No, Master _Prestwitch_, this and much more did,
+   His friendship did command and freely gave
+   All before writ, and more than I durst crave.
+   But leaving him a little, I must tell,
+   How men of _Manchester_ did use me well,
+   Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack,
+   Roast, boiled, baked, too--too--much, white, claret, sack,
+   Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,
+   Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot,
+   That what they could do, all they thought too little,
+   Striving in love the traveller to whittle.
+   We went into the house of one _John Pinners_,
+   (A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners)
+   And there eight several sorts of ale we had,
+   All able to make one stark drunk or mad.
+   But I with courage bravely flinched not,
+   And gave the town leave to discharge the shot.
+   We had at one time set upon the table,
+   Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no AEsop-fable:
+   Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt,
+   And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt,
+   With ale of rosemary, and betony,
+   And two ales more, or else I needs must lie.
+   But to conclude this drinking aley-tale,
+   We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale.
+   Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,
+   Did strive whose love should be expressed most,
+   And farther to declare their boundless loves,
+   They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves,
+   In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,
+   That in their praise I cannot write too much;
+   They merit more than I have here compiled,
+   I lodged at the Eagle and the Child,
+   Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman)
+   Did entertain me with respect, not common.
+   She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed,
+   And on my way she caused me be refreshed,
+   She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon,
+   Which by me much refused, at last was taken,
+   In troth she proved a mother unto me,
+   For which, I evermore will thankful be.
+   But when to mind these kindnesses I call,
+   Kind Master _Prestwitch_ author is of all,
+   And yet Sir _Urian Leigh's_ good commendation,
+   Was the main ground of this my recreation.
+   From both of them, there what I had, I had,
+   Or else my entertainment had been bad.
+   O all you worthy men of _Manchester_,
+   (True bred bloods of the County _Lancaster_)
+   When I forget what you to me have done,
+   Then let me headlong to confusion run.
+   To noble Master _Prestwitch_ I must give
+   Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,
+   His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,
+   He far surpassed all that went before,
+   A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,
+   To bring me quite through _Lancaster's_ large county,
+   Which I well know is fifty miles at large,
+   And he defrayed all the cost and charge.
+   This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,
+   That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.
+   So Mistress _Saracoal_, hostess kind,
+   And _Manchester_ with thanks I left behind.
+   The Wednesday being _July's_ twenty nine,
+   My journey I to _Preston_ did confine,
+   All the day long it rained but one shower,
+   Which from the morning to the evening did pour,
+   And I, before to _Preston_ I could get,
+   Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat,
+   But there I was supplied with fire and food,
+   And anything I wanted sweet and good.
+   There, at the Hind, kind Master _Hind_ mine host,
+   Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast,
+   There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,
+   And hardly got from thence on Saturday.
+   Unto my lodging often did repair,
+   Kind Master _Thomas Banister_, the Mayor,
+   Who is of worship, and of good respect,
+   And in his charge discreet and circumspect.
+   For I protest to God I never saw,
+   A town more wisely governed by the law.
+   They told me when my Sovereign there was last,
+   That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste.
+   It grieved them all, but when at last they found,
+   His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned.
+   He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds,
+   He did accept their kind intents, for deeds:
+   One man there was, that with his zeal too hot,
+   And furious haste, himself much overshot.
+   But what man is so foolish, that desires
+   To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars?
+   Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,
+   Because I saw how much they grieved were;
+   That any way, the least part of offence,
+   Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.
+   Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in _Preston_,
+   And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,
+   Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,
+   And on my way two miles, with me he went,
+   There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,
+   The under Sheriff of _Lancashire_ we met,
+   A gentleman that loved, and knew me well,
+   And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.
+   There, as if I had been a noted thief,
+   The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.
+   The Sheriff's authority did much prevail,
+   He sent me unto one that kept the jail.
+   Thus I perambuling, poor _John Taylor_,
+   Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor.
+   The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer,
+   Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear,
+   For the under-Sheriff kind Master _Covill_ named,
+   (A man for house-keeping renowed and famed)
+   Did cause the town of _Lancashire_ afford
+   Me welcome, as if I had been a lord.
+   And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,
+   His mate can scarce be found in all that county.
+   The extremes of miser, or of prodigal,
+   He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,
+   His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed,
+   That _Argus_ eyes could see no odds betwixt,
+   And sure the difference, (if there difference be)
+   Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.
+   Poor folks report, that for relieving them,
+   He and his wife, are each of them a gem;
+   At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid,
+   And what was to be paid, I know he paid:
+   If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,
+   Ungrateful me the world might justly note:
+   Had I declared all I did hear, and see,
+   For a great flatterer then I deemed should be,
+   Him and his wife, and modest daughter _Bess_,
+   With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless.
+   Two days a man of his, at his command,
+   Did guide me to the midst of _Westmoreland_,
+   And my conductor with a liberal fist,
+   To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed.
+   The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)
+   We in the dark, to a town called _Sedbergh_ came,
+   There Master _Borrowed_, my kind honest host,
+   Upon me did bestowed unasked cost.
+   The next day I held on my journey still,
+   Six miles unto a place called _Carling_ hill,
+   Where Master _Edmund Branthwaite_[10] doth reside,
+   Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.
+   Our entertainment, and our fare were such,
+   It might have satisfied our betters much;
+   Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,
+   And five miles on my way himself me brought,
+   At _Orton_ he, I, and my man did dine,
+   With Master _Corney_ a good true Divine,
+   And surely Master _Branthwaite_'s well beloved,
+   His firm integrity is much approved:
+   His good effects, do make him still affected
+   Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.
+   He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down,
+   Who lodged, and boarded me at _Penrith_ town,
+   And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,
+   That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;
+   There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)
+   With me a journey would to _Carlisle_ make:
+   But from that city, about two miles wide,
+   Good Sir _John Dalston_ lodged me and my guide.
+   Of all the gentlemen in _England's_ bounds
+   His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,
+   And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,
+   He's free from being covetous, or proud;
+   His son, Sir _George_, most affable, and kind,
+   His father's image, both in form and mind,
+   On Saturday to _Carlisle_ both did ride,
+   Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,
+   Where of good entertainment I found store,
+   From one that was the mayor the year before,
+   His name is Master _Adam Robinson_,
+   I the last English friendship with him won.
+   He (_gratis_) found a guide to bring me through,
+
+   [Sidenote: _My thanks
+   to Sir John
+   and Sir Geo.
+   Dalston, with
+   Sir Henry
+   Curwin._]
+
+   From _Carlisle_ to the city _Edinburgh_:
+   This was a help, that was a help alone,
+   Of all my helps inferior unto none.
+   Eight miles from _Carlisle_ runs a little river,
+   Which _England's_ bounds, from _Scotland's_ grounds doth sever.
+   Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get
+
+[Sidenote: _Over Esk I
+waded._]
+
+   On foot, I went, yet scarce my shoes did wet.
+   I being come to this long-looked-for land,
+   Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned;
+   And I saw nothing that could change my will,
+   But that I thought myself in _England_ still.
+   The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,
+   There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;
+   There I saw sky above, and earth below,
+   And as in _England_, there the sun did show;
+   The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale,
+
+[Sidenote: _The afore-named
+knights
+had given money
+to my
+guide, of which
+he left some
+part at every
+ale-house._]
+
+   And many a cottage yielded good Scottish ale;
+   This county (_Avondale_) in former times,
+   Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:
+   For _Cumberland_ and it, both kingdoms borders,
+   Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,
+   Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,
+   Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving;
+   And many times he that had wealth to-night,
+   Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:
+   Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted,
+   That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,
+   Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled,
+   The churches with the lowly ground were levelled;
+   All memorable monuments defaced,
+   All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.
+   That whoso then did in the borders dwell,
+   Lived little happier than those in hell.
+   But since the all-disposing God of heaven,
+   Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given,
+   Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered,
+   Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,
+   That now each subject may securely sleep,
+   His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep,
+   For now those crowns are both in one combined,
+   Those former borders, that each one confine,
+   Appears to me (as I do understand)
+   To be almost the centre of the land,
+   This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,
+   To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle.
+   Long may the instrumental cause survive.
+   From him and his, succession still derive
+   True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,
+   That these two kingdoms ever may be one;
+   This county of all _Scotland_ is most poor,
+   By reason of the outrages before,
+   Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow,
+   And as good grass as ever man did mow:
+   And as that day I twenty miles did pass,
+   I saw eleven hundred neat at grass,
+   By which may be conjectured at the least,
+   That there was sustenance for man and beast.
+   And in the kingdom I have truly scanned,
+   There's many worser parts, are better manned,
+   For in the time that thieving was in ure,
+   The gentles fled to places more secure.
+   And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain,
+   Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again.
+   The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty,
+   Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,
+   Twixt it and England, little odds I see,
+   They eat, and live, and strong and able be,
+   So much in verse, and now I'll change my style,
+   And seriously I'll write in prose awhile.
+
+To the purpose then: my first night's lodging in _Scotland_ was at a
+place called _Moffat_, which they say, is thirty miles from _Carlisle_,
+but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt
+_London_ and Saint _Albans_, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost as
+large measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an English
+gallon either of ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile
+(now and then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but
+howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest that
+ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found good
+ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was sweet and
+good, and might have served a far better man than myself, although
+myself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though
+it rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice,
+for I waded over a great river called _Esk_ in the morning, somewhat
+more than four miles distance from _Carlisle_ in _England_, and at night
+within two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the river of
+_Annan_ in _Scotland_, from which river the county of _Annandale_, hath
+its name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback,
+like the _George_ without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and
+left _Moffat_ behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one miles to a
+sorry village called _Blythe_, but I was blithe myself to come to any
+place of harbour or succour, for since I was born, I never was so weary,
+or so near being dead with extreme travel: I was foundered and
+refoundered of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that
+I must lodge without doors all night, or else in a poor house where the
+good wife lay in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant
+maid being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially
+adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I must
+either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got eggs and
+ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the
+floor by me, where in the night there were pigeons did very bountifully
+mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and having but fifteen
+miles to _Edinburgh_, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to
+hobble, and after to amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by
+degrees; all the way passing through a fertile country for corn and
+cattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday,
+being the thirteenth of August, and the day of _Clare_ the Virgin (the
+sign being in _Virgo_) the moon four days old, the wind at west, I came
+to take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous city of
+_Edinburgh_, which I entered like Pierce Penniless,oeee11] altogether
+moneyless, but I thank God, not friendless; for being there, for the
+time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I
+could get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure
+the price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to
+suffer him and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of
+litter, till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that
+would desperately disburse.
+
+Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with travel, and my
+mind attired with moody, muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation
+did devotely pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being
+willing to take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing,
+and circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his
+picture, but all my acquaintance was _Non est inventus_, (pardon me,
+reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by _Priscian's
+Pericranium_, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times.) At
+last I resolved, that the next gentleman that I meet withal, should be
+acquaintance whether he would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon
+a gentleman-like object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something
+through him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my
+gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way and
+made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving to
+encounter with any man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thus
+accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder gentleman, (meaning me) know
+me, that he looks so wistly on me? Truly sir, said my man, I think not,
+but my master is a stranger come from _London_, and would gladly meet
+some acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging and
+horse-meat. Presently the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition)
+overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a
+lodging, and caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we
+discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to him, as
+made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master _John Maxwell_)
+which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from out
+the walls of _London_: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself,
+the gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as my
+poor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.
+
+The Castle on a lofty rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, and
+founded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the foundation
+and walls are unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks
+invincible, no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable.
+In a word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in _Germany_, the
+_Netherlands_, _Spain_ and _England_, but they must all give place to
+this unconquered Castle, both for strength and situation.
+
+Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I noted
+especially a great piece of ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but
+it will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against
+any that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now
+dismounted.[12] And it is so great within, that it was told me that a
+child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept into it, lying
+on my back, and I am sure there was room enough and spare for a greater
+than myself.
+
+So leaving the Castle, as it is both defensive against my opposition,
+and magnific for lodging and receite,[13] I descended lower to the City,
+wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyes
+beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (which
+is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair port which they call
+the _Nether-Bow_) and from that port, the street which they call the
+_Kenny-gate_ is one quarter of a mile more, down to the King's Palace,
+called _Holy-rood-House_, the buildings on each side of the way being
+all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, and many
+bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's
+houses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, for in the
+High Street the merchants and tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen's
+mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
+lanes: the walls are eight or ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not
+built for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from antiquity to
+posterity, for many ages; there I found entertainment beyond my
+expectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such
+variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety.
+The worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there
+such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man had
+asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could not have made
+him a sober answer.
+
+I was at his Majesty's Palace, a stately and princely seat, wherein I
+saw a sumptuous chapel, most richly adorned with all appurtenances
+belonging to so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner
+court I saw the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a
+door aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which was
+written this inscription in Latin,
+
+     _Nobis haec invicta miserunt, 106 proavi._
+
+I enquired what the English of it was? it was told
+me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be
+recorded.
+
+     _106, forefathers have left this to us unconquered._
+
+This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms or none
+in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many
+inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreign
+hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre the
+strength and policy of enemies, that royal crown and sceptre hath from
+one hundred and seven descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power
+of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now
+left peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the
+God of peace defend and govern.
+
+But once more, a word or two of _Edinburgh_, although I have scarcely
+given it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately
+buildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades
+me that they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well
+in that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the sea, and all
+navigable rivers being the chief means for the enriching of towns and
+cities, by the reason of traffic with foreign nations, with exportation,
+transportation, and receite of variety of merchandizing; so this city
+had it been built but one mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it
+had long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns
+and cities in _Europe_, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, state,
+and riches. It is said, that King _James_ the fifth (of famous memory)
+did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon them
+freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the
+seashore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their city,
+and build it in that more commodious place, but the citizens refused it;
+and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such
+another proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two days
+after the fair.
+
+Now have with you for _Leith_, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well
+entertained by Master _Barnard Lindsay_, one of the grooms of his
+Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because I
+brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass for
+current there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity[14] of my empty
+purse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, each
+being in value worth eleven shillings white money; and I was creditably
+informed, that within the compass of one year, there was shipped away
+from that only port of _Leith_, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats,
+and barley into _Spain_, _France_, and other foreign parts, and every
+bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from _Leith_
+only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of
+corn; besides some hath been shipped away from Saint _Andrews_, from
+_Dundee_, _Aberdeen_, _Dysart_, _Kirkaldy_, _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_,
+_Dunbar_, and other portable towns, which makes me to wonder that a
+kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so much
+bread-corn beyond the seas, and yet to have more than sufficient for
+themselves.
+
+So I having viewed the haven and town of _Leith_, took a passage boat to
+see the new wondrous Well,[15] to which many a one that is not well,
+comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that it
+had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or kill
+divers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoiding
+of the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with
+many other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God,
+having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done,
+but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant
+than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, and
+I did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as much
+as his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the
+stomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.
+
+I went two miles from it to a town called _Burntisland_, where I found
+many of my especial good friends, as Master _Robert Hay_, one of the
+Grooms of his Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master _David Drummond_, one of his
+Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master _James Acmootye_, one of the Grooms of the
+Privy Chamber, Captain _Murray_, Sir _Henry Witherington_ Knight,
+Captain _Tyrie_, and divers others: and there Master _Hay_, Master
+_Drummond_, and the good old Captain _Murray_ did very bountifully
+furnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those
+aforesaid gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange
+accident, which I think worth the relating.
+
+I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at sea in
+former times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of
+_Cadiz_; whereto an English gentleman replied, that he was the next good
+voyage after at the Islands: I answered him that I was there also. He
+demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens:
+why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my name
+is _Witherington_.
+
+Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is near
+two and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of
+you. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some
+remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him two
+or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will
+tell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotton; as our
+ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at anchor at the Isle of
+_Flores_ (one of the Isles of the _Azores_) there were some fourteen men
+and boys of our ship, that for novelty would go ashore, and see what
+fruit the island did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so
+being landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones,
+heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, musk-mellions,
+and potatoes; in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea
+was so extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to
+fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks;
+this continued five days, so that we were almost famished for want of
+food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of God
+I happened into a cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves
+of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in _England_, I having a
+valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty hours
+breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: and as I was
+about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put twelve of them
+into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the cave,
+leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a gentleman came to
+me, and said, "Friend, what are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For
+God's sake," said he, "give me some." With that, I put my hand into my
+breech, (being my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received
+with many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he would.
+
+I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir _Henry Witherington_ did
+acknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the loaf unto two and
+twenty years before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more
+privilege than mountains in meeting.
+
+In what great measure he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relate
+in this following discourse in my return through _Northumberland_: so
+leaving my man at the town of _Burntisland_, I told him, I would but go
+to _Stirling_, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourable
+friends the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ Knight, Lord of
+_Abercairney_, and that I would return within two days at the most: but
+it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and thirty days before I
+could get back again out of these noble men's company. The whole
+progress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay I cannot with
+gratefulness omit; and thus it was.
+
+A worthy gentleman named Master _John Fenton_, did bring me on my way
+six miles to _Dunfermline_, where I was well entertained, and lodged at
+Master _John Gibb_ his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's
+Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King hath: withal, I was
+well entertained there by Master _Crighton_ at his own house, who went
+with me, and shewed me the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely
+Mansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey,
+with fair gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which
+with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, were
+annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, which though
+it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been much
+larger. But I taking my leave of _Dunfermline_, would needs go and see
+the truly noble Knight Sir _George Bruce_, at a town called the
+_Culross_: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare,
+and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see his
+most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is a
+wonder; for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor any
+history that I have read, or any discourse that I have heard, did never
+see, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or be
+equivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I
+can say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his
+vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer
+of it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so
+accomplished a profit to the common-wealth shall be raked and smothered
+in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the description
+of it, although I amongst writers, am like he that worse may hold the
+candle.
+
+The mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land;
+but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please,
+and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it:
+but I for variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may
+object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being into the
+sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the mine? To which
+objection thus I answer, that at low water mark, the sea being ebbed
+away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (being
+mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of this great work build a
+round circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined together
+with glutinous or bituminous matter, so high withal that the sea at the
+highest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither
+dissolve the stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow
+the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did
+set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments fit
+for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into and through a
+rock. At last they found that which they expected, which was sea coal,
+they following the vein of the mine, did dig forward still: so that in
+the space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years, they have
+digged more than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at
+work below, an hundred of the greatest ships in _Britain_ man sail over
+their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut like an arch or
+a vault, all that great length, with many nooks and bye-ways: and it is
+so made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in and
+out. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through the
+want of employment would perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was
+come forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir _George Bruce_, I
+told him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had
+seen this mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have left
+the Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to have
+blown up the barges and wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates
+of our kingdom were. Moreover, I said, that I could afford to turn
+tapster at _London_, so that I had but
+          one quarter of a mile of his mine to make me
+             a cellar, to keep beer and bottled ale
+                 in. But leaving these jests in
+                   prose, I will relate a few
+                       verses that I made
+                         merrily of this
+                              mine.
+
+   I that have wasted, months, weeks, days, and hours
+   In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers,
+   Without all measure, measuring many paces,
+   And with my pen describing many places,
+   With few additions of mine own devising,
+   (Because I have a smack of _Coryatizing_[16])
+   Our _Mandeville_, _Primaleon_, _Don Quixote_,
+   Great _Amadis_, or _Huon_, travelled not
+   As I have done, or been where I have been,
+   Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;
+   Nor Britain's _Odcombe_ (_Zany_ brave _Ulysses_)
+   In all his ambling, saw the like as this is.
+   I was in (would I could describe it well)
+   A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,
+   And as by water I was wafted in,
+   I thought that I in _Charon's_ boat had been,
+   But being at the entrance landed thus,
+   Three men there (instead of _Cerberus_)
+   Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light
+   To guide us in that vault of endless night,
+   There young and old with glim'ring candles burning
+   Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,
+   Some in a hole with baskets and with bags,
+   Resembling furies, or infernal hags:
+   There one like _Tantalus_ feeding, and there one,
+   Like _Sisyphus_ he rolls the restless stone.
+   Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,
+   Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet[17]
+   For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,
+   There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell;
+   And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory,
+   Than _Rome_ doth by fantastic Purgatory.
+   A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep,
+   In deepness far more deep, than _Neptunes_ deep,
+   Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high)
+   Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky:
+   That had I died in that _Cimmerian_[18] room,
+   Four elements had covered o'er my tomb:
+   Thus farther than the bottom did I go,
+   (And many Englishmen have not done so;)
+   Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales,
+   And regiments of fish with fins and scales,
+   'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide,
+   And where great ships may at an anchor ride:
+   Thus in by sea, and out by land I past,
+   And took my leave of good Sir _George_ at last.
+
+The sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the mine, which by the
+industry of Sir _George Bruce_, is all conveyed to one well near the
+land; where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses
+and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty-six
+buckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen go down still to
+be filled, and eighteen ascend up to be emptied, which do empty
+themselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys the
+water into the sea again; by which means he saves his mine, which
+otherwise would be destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every
+week ninety or a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of
+_Scotland_, some he sends into _England_, and very much into _Germany_:
+all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthy
+endeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, and
+lastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to
+_Stirling_, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately
+house called _Allaway_, belonging to the Earl of _Mar_ which by reason
+that his honour was not there, I past by and went to _Stirling_, where I
+was entertained and lodged at one Master John _Archibalds_, where all my
+want was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I might
+have had there! he had me into the castle, which in few words I do
+compare to _Windsor_ for situation, much more than _Windsor_ in
+strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that his
+Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in
+_England_ or _Scotland_, except Westminster Hall which is now no
+dwelling hall for a prince, being long since metamorphosed into a house
+for the law and the profits.
+
+This goodly hall was built by King _James_ the fourth, that married King
+_Henry_ the Eight's sister, and after was slain at _Flodden field_; but
+it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, for
+length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle is built
+upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond _Edinburgh_ Castle in state and
+magnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of it
+are lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each room
+being so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber
+or lodging. There is also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables,
+and all other necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the
+majesty of a king.
+
+From _Stirling_ I rode to Saint _Johnstone_,[19] a fine town it is, but
+it is much decayed, by reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming
+to lodge there. There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the
+house his name being _Patrick Pitcairne_, where my entertainment was
+with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Mine
+host told me that the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ of
+_Abercairney_ were gone to the great hunting to the _Brae_ of _Mar_[20];
+but if I made haste I might perhaps find them at a town called
+_Brekin_, or _Brechin_, two and thirty miles from Saint _Johnstone_
+whereupon I took a guide to _Brechin_ the next day, but before I came,
+my lord was gone from thence four days.
+
+Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways over
+mountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I am
+sure I never saw any ways that might fellow them I did go through a
+country called _Glen Esk_, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep
+as the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yard
+broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into the
+bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen without
+recovery a good mile downright; but I thank God, at
+night I came to a lodging in the Laird of _Edzell's_ land, where I lay
+at an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English,
+but I supped and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was
+enforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musquitoes, a
+creature that hath six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon
+man's flesh, they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this
+house was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in
+_England_, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to me the _A._
+and the _Z._ the prologue and the epilogue, the first and the last that
+I had in all my travels from _Edinburgh_; and had not this Highland
+Irish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all
+_Scotland_ had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse upon me: but
+with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, and was never more
+troubled with them.
+
+The next day I travelled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount
+_Skene_, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; but
+when I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with
+cold, like Virginal's jacks;[21] and withal, a most familiar mist
+embraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way:
+withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my
+clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, in
+wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, the
+way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, that
+a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with four; for do what we
+could, we were four hours before we could pass it.
+
+Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting and
+alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brae of
+_Mar_, which is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that
+Shooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampstead Hill, Birdlip
+Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like a
+liver, or a gizard under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of
+their tops, or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount _Ben
+Aven_, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a night-cap:
+(for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the
+snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well as
+in winter.) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords
+_John Erskine_ Earl of Mar, _James Stuart_ Earl of Murray, _George
+Gordon_ Earl of Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, _James
+Erskine_ Earl of Buchan, and _John_ Lord _Erskine_, son and heir to the
+Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best
+assured and approved friend, Sir _William Murray_ Knight, of
+_Abercairney_, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and their
+followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if _Lycurgus_
+had been there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which
+is the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many of
+the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do come into
+these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform themselves to
+the habit of the Highland men, who for the most part speak nothing but
+Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the
+_Red-shanks_.[22] Their habit is shoes with but one sole apiece;
+stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of divers
+colours, which they call tartan: as for breeches, many of them, nor
+their forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that
+their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw,
+with a plaid about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours,
+of much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps on
+their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their neck; and
+thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows and forked
+arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, dirks, and Lochaber
+axes. With these arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for
+their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them,
+must not disdain to wear it; for if they do, then they will disdain to
+hunt, or willingly, to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto
+them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and
+the sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so many
+noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.
+
+My good Lord of _Mar_ having put me into that shape,[23] I rode with him
+from his house, where I saw the ruins of an old castle, called the
+castle of _Kindroghit_ [Castletown]. It was built by King _Malcolm
+Canmore_ (for a hunting house) who reigned in _Scotland_ when _Edward_
+the Confessor, _Harold_, and Norman _William_ reigned in _England_: I
+speak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts;
+for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house,
+corn field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses,
+wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never
+have seen a house again.[24]
+
+Thus the first day we travelled eight miles, where there small cottages
+built on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good
+Lord _Erskine_, he commanded that I should always be lodged in his
+lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many kettles
+and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great variety
+of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and stewed beef, mutton,
+goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, hens, capons, chickens,
+partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, capercailzies, and termagants
+[ptarmigans]; good ale, sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante)
+with most potent _Aquavitae_.
+
+All these, and more than these we had continually, in superfluous
+abundance, caught by Falconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my
+Lord's tenants and purveyors to victual our camp, which consisted of
+fourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is
+this: five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do
+disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles compass,
+they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, three, or four
+hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the Nobleman shall
+appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and gentlemen of their
+companies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up to
+their middles through bournes and rivers: and then: they being come to
+the place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid scouts which
+are called the Tinchel, do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says
+of a bad cook, so these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for
+besides their bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear
+now and then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom
+discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or
+thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round about
+us, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed close
+by the Tinchel, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then all
+the valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong
+Irish greyhounds, they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the
+herd of deer, so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in
+the space of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are
+disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty miles, and
+more than enough left for us to make merry withal at our rendezvous. I
+liked the sport so well, that I made these two sonnets following.
+
+   Why should I waste invention to indite,
+   _Ovidian_ fictions, or Olympian games?
+   My misty Muse enlightened with more light,
+   To a more noble pitch her aim she frames.
+   I must relate to my great Master JAMES,
+   The Caledonian annual peaceful war;
+   How noble minds do eternize their fames,
+   By martial meeting in the Brae of _Mar_:
+   How thousand gallant spirits came near and far,
+   With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns,
+   That all the troop to men of judgment, are
+   The God of Wars great never conquered sons,
+   The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts,
+   And last the victor on the vanquished feasts.
+   If sport like this can on the mountains be,
+   Where _Phoebus_ flames can never melt the snow;
+   Then let who list delight in vales below,
+   Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me:
+   What braver object can man's eyesight see,
+   Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights,
+   As if they were prepared for sundry fights,
+   Yet all in sweet society agree?
+   Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,
+   'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills,
+   Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs,
+   Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills.
+   Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat,
+   The Highland games and minds, are high and great.
+
+Being come to our lodgings, there was such baking, boiling, roasting,
+and stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil
+in his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an
+indifferent May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of _Mar_ will give
+any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that are as
+good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they were in any
+place near the Thames, or any other portable river) the best earldom in
+England or Scotland either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing
+there, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world)
+for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, barks, and
+water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years.
+
+This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands do
+know that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is
+the pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in
+such rocky mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be
+passable, either with boat, horse, or cart.
+
+Thus having spent certain days in hunting in the Brae of _Mar_, we went
+to the next county called _Badenoch_, belonging to the Earl of _Enzie_,
+where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after four
+or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and took
+our journey toward a strong house of the Earl's, called _Ruthven_ in
+_Badenoch_, where my Lord of _Enzie_ and his noble Countess (being
+daughter to the Earl of _Argyle_) did give us most noble welcome three
+days.
+
+From thence we went to a place called _Balloch Castle_,[25] a fair and
+stately house, a worthy gentleman being the owner of it, called the
+Laird of _Grant_; his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended
+being sister to the right Honourable Earl of _Athol_, and to Sir
+_Patrick Murray_ Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardly
+plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: so that our
+cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could afford
+us. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knights
+and Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every meal
+four long tables furnished with all varieties: our first and second
+course being three score dishes at one board; and after that always a
+banquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to _Edinburgh_
+I think I had there drunk my last.
+
+The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to _Tarnaway_, a goodly
+house of the Earl of _Murrays_,[26] where that Right Honourable Lord and
+his Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all
+variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed the
+County of _Murray_ is the most pleasantest and plentiful country in all
+_Scotland_; being plain land, that a coach may be driven more than four
+and thirty miles one way in it, alongst by the sea-coast.
+
+From thence I went to _Elgin_ in _Murray_,[27] an ancient City, where
+there stood a fair and beautiful church with three steeples, the walls
+of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, and
+many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy personages all
+broken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bare rule, and
+Knox knocked down churches.
+
+From _Elgin_ we went to the Bishop of _Murray_ his house which is called
+_Spiny_, or _Spinay_: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of
+_Douglas_, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour of
+himself and his guests.
+
+From thence we departed to the Lord Marquess of _Huntlys_ to a sumptuous
+house of his, named the _Bog of Geethe_, where our entertainment was
+like himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days
+stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords to
+depart towards _Edinburgh_: the Noble Marquess, the Earl of _Mar_,
+_Murray_, _Enzie_, _Buchan_, and the Lord _Erskine_; all these, I thank
+them, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey.
+
+So after five and thirty days hunting and travel I returning, past by
+another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called _Stroboggy_, and
+so over _Carny_ mount to _Brechin_, where a wench that was born deaf and
+dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she opening
+the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had I been a
+_Sardanapalus_, or a _Heliogabulus_, I think that either the great
+travel over the mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty could
+never have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was as
+sweet as sugar-candian,[28] being very well shouldered beneath the
+waste; and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed
+her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But
+howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of my
+sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knew
+who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; and
+for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair.
+
+Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins as at _Brechin_, I
+departed from thence to a town called _Forfor_; and from thence to
+_Dundee_, and so to _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, and so to _Edinburgh_,
+where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises, which
+I received in my travel in the Highland mountainous hunting. Great
+welcome I had showed me all my stay at _Edinburgh_, by many worthy
+gentlemen, namely, old Master _George Todrigg_, Master _Henry
+Livingston_, Master _James Henderson_, Master _John Maxwell_, and a
+number of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may
+be imagined.
+
+Now the day before I came from _Edinburgh_, I went to _Leith_, where I
+found my long approved and assured good friend Master _Benjamin Jonson_,
+at one Master _John Stuarts_ house; I thank him for his great kindness
+towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold of
+two and twenty shillings[29] to drink his health in _England_. And
+withal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends:
+So with a friendly farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see
+him in a worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that
+know his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much respective
+love he is worthily entertained.
+
+So leaving _Leith_ I returned to _Edinburgh_, and within the port or
+gate, called the _Nether-Bow_, I discharged my pockets of all the money
+I had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my first
+coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came moneyless out
+of it again; having in company to convey me out, certain gentlemen,
+amongst the which Master _James Acherson_, Laird of _Gasford_, a
+gentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainment
+he and his good wife did welcome me.
+
+On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called
+_Adam_, to Master _John Acmootye_ his house, one of the Grooms of his
+Majesty's Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master
+_Alexander_, and Master _James Acmootye_, I found both cheer and
+welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any former place.
+
+Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole and
+Goose (_sic_), a most delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in
+a little rock called the _Bass_, which stands two miles into the sea. It
+is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat oysters,
+standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, unsanctified without
+grace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or three
+good rouses[30] of sherry or canary sack. The Lord or owner of the
+_Bass_ doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those geese;
+the _Bass_ itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a
+mile in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one
+small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in it; and
+on the top of it a well of pure fresh water.
+
+From _Adam_, Master _John_ and Master _James Acmootye_ went to the town
+of _Dunbar_ with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed,
+and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master _James Baylies_
+house I took leave, and Master _James Acmootye_ coming for _England_,
+said, that if I would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want
+betwixt that place and _London_. Now I having no money nor means for
+travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last my want
+persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's undeserved
+courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called _Cockburnspath_,
+where we lodged at an inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in any
+of his Majesty's Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master
+_William Arnot_ and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their
+bountiful entertainment of guests, which is this:
+
+Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at their
+house, the men shall have flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all
+variety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall
+want neither hay or provender: and at the morning at their departure the
+reckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his
+chief delight being only to give strangers entertainment _gratis_: and I
+am sure, that in _Scotland_ beyond _Edinburgh_, I have been at houses
+like castles for building; the master of the house his beaver being his
+blue bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the flax that
+grows on his own ground, and of his wife's, daughters', or servants'
+spinning; that hath his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his
+own sheep's backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer,
+draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn
+bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains
+thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day relieving
+three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, can
+give noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or six
+earls and lords, besides knights, gentlemen and their followers, if they
+be three or four hundred men, and horse of them, where they shall not
+only feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man that
+desires to know nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose
+greatest cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and
+hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless fashions,
+he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred acres on his
+back at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered with
+golden garters, and manacled with artificial roses, whose weight
+(sometime) is the last reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these
+worthy housekeepers there are in _Scotland_, amongst some of them I was
+entertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaid
+observations.
+
+So leaving _Cockburnspath_, we rode to _Berwick_, where the worthy old
+Soldier and ancient Knight, Sir _William Bowyer_, made me welcome, but
+contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master _James Acmootye_
+paid all charges: but at _Berwick_ there was a grievous chance happened,
+which I think not fit the relation to be omitted.
+
+In the river of _Tweed_, which runs by _Berwick_, are taken by fishermen
+that dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many
+households and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but
+(how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy
+whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long amongst
+them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday,
+the salmons played in such great abundance in the river, that some of
+the fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats and
+nets and fished, and caught near three hundred salmons; but from that
+time until Michaelmas day that I was there, which was nine weeks, and
+heard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserable
+lamentations, they had not seen one salmon in the river; and some of
+them were in despair that they should never see any more there;
+affirming it to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation of the
+Sabbath.
+
+The thirtieth of September we rode from _Berwick_ to _Belford_ from
+_Belford_ to _Alnwick_, the next day from _Alnwick_ to _Newcastle_,
+where I found the noble Knight, Sir _Henry Witherington_; who, because I
+would have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf
+of bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the Island
+of _Flores_, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at
+_Newcastle_ a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for
+_London_, namely, Master _Robert Hay_, and Master _David Drummond_,
+where I was welcomed at Master _Nicholas Tempests_ house. From
+_Newcastle_ I rode with those gentlemen to _Durham_, to _Darlington_, to
+_Northallerton_, and to _Topcliffe_ in _Yorkshire_, where I took my
+leave of them, and would needs try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and
+see the city of _York_, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good
+friend, Master Doctor _Hudson_ one of his Majesty's chaplains, who went
+with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the most
+admirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed[31] chapter house.
+
+From _York_ I rode to _Doncaster_, where my horses were well fed at the
+Bear, but myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir _Robert Anstruther_
+at his father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir _Robert Swifts_ house, he
+being then High Sheriff of _Yorkshire_, where with their good Ladies,
+and the right Honourable the Lord _Sanquhar_, I was stayed two nights
+and one day, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ (I thank him) not only paying for
+my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a letter to
+_Newark_ upon _Trent_, twenty eight miles in my way, where Master
+_George Atkinson_ mine host made me as welcome, as if I had been a
+French Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid as
+much; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir _Robert
+Anstruther_.
+
+So leaving _Newark_, with another gentleman that overtook me, we came at
+night to _Stamford_, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead)
+where I delivered a letter from the Lord _Sanquhar_; which caused Master
+_Bates_ and his wife, being the master and mistress of the house, to
+make me and the gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing.
+
+From _Stamford_ the next day we rode to _Huntington_, where we lodged at
+the Postmaster's house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is _Riggs_.
+He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless
+progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with us, and
+very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar, and four
+jugs of beer. He did drink and begin healths like a horse-leech and
+swallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or
+nine pound of sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank
+post, striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or
+to make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like
+a jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible
+shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for his
+superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.
+
+But leaving him, I left _Huntington_, and rode on the Sunday to
+_Puckeridge_, where Master _Holland_ at the Falcon, (mine old
+acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, my man,
+and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, not a
+penny of money.
+
+The next day I came to _London_, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I
+went to a house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to
+_Islington_, to the sign of the Maidenhead,[32] staying till Wednesday,
+that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesday
+was my first coming; where with all love I was entertained with much
+good cheer: and after supper we had a play of the Life and Death of _Guy
+of Warwick_,[33] played by the Right Honourable the Earl of _Derby_ his
+men. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I
+came home to my house in _London_.
+
+
+[Decorative thought break]
+
+
+
+
+THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS AND OTHERS.
+
+
+   Thus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask,
+   By any course, direct or indirectly:
+   But in each tittle I performed my task,
+   According to my bill most circumspectly.
+   I vow to God, I have done SCOTLAND wrong,
+   (And (justly) against me it may bring an action)
+   I have not given it that right which doth belong,
+   For which I am half guilty of detraction:
+   Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,
+   Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,
+   And so my name I should in question draw,
+   Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter:
+   Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen,
+   That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap,
+   In such abundant food for beasts and men;
+   That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap.
+   Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;
+   And what I do believe, I know is true:
+   And what is true unto your hands I give,
+   That what I give, may be believed of you.
+   But as for him that says I lie or dote,
+   I do return, and turn the lie in's throat.
+     Thus gentlemen, amongst you take my ware,
+     You share my thanks, and I your moneys share.
+
+        _Yours in all observance and gratefulness,
+
+              ever to be commanded_,
+
+                   JOHN TAYLOR.
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+[Decoration]
+
+
+[Footnote 1: PROVANT.--Provender; provision.]
+
+[Footnote 2: FEGARY.--A vagary.]
+
+[Footnote 3: TRUNDLE.--_i.e._, John Trundle of the sign of _No-body_
+(see note page 6).]
+
+[Footnote 4: It is reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom
+of "Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue--or, _No-body_ would have
+taken the oath.]
+
+[Footnote 5: NAMED LEAN AND FEN.--Some jest is intended here on the
+Host's name.--Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of A. FENNEL.]
+
+[Footnote 6: NO-BODY was the singular sign of John Trundle, a
+ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who seems to
+have accompanied our author as far as _Whetstone_ on his "Penniless
+Pilgrimage"--and, certainly up to this point a very "wet" one!] In one
+of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is introduced, "attyred in a payre of
+Breeches, which were made to come up to his neck, with his armes out at
+his pockets and cap drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for
+John Trundle and are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of
+No-Body." A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at
+Britwell House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a
+woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a torn
+money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken pots, pans,
+bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. Above him is a scroll
+in black-letter:--
+
+"Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame."
+
+The ballad commences as follows:--
+
+   "Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe,
+   So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe;
+           But nowe, beholde, here I am,
+           Whom all the worlde doeth diffame;
+           Long have they also scorned me,
+           And locked my mouthe for speking free.
+           As many a Godly man they have so served
+           Which unto them God's truth hath shewed;
+           Of such they have burned and hanged some.
+           That unto their ydolatrye wold not come:
+           The Ladye Truthe they have locked in cage,
+           Saying of her Nobodye had knowledge.
+           For as much nowe as they name Nobodye
+           I thinke verilye they speke of me:
+           Whereffore to answere I nowe beginne--
+           The locke of my mouthe is opened with ginne,
+           Wrought by no man, but by God's grace,
+           Unto whom be prayse in every place," &c.
+
+Larwood and Hotten's _History of Signboards_.]
+
+[Footnote 7: PULSE.--All sorts of leguminous seeds.]
+
+[Footnote 8: See Dedication to _The Scourge of Baseness_.]
+
+[Footnote 9: MASTER DOCTOR HOLLAND.--The once well-known Philemon
+Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age," published
+translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History," 1601; Camden's
+"Britannica," &c. He is said to have used in translation more paper and
+fewer pens than any other writer before or since, and who "would not let
+Suetonius be Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.]
+
+[Footnote 10: EDMUND BRANTHWAITE.--Robert Branthwaite, William
+Branthwaite _Cant._, and "Thy assured friend" R. B., have each written
+Commendatory Verses to ALL THE WORKS OF JOHN TAYLOR. London 1630. And
+Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets," has the
+following:--"One might have hoped in these parts for a happy meeting
+between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal memory; indeed it is
+likely that the Water-Poet and the Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and
+that the latter may have introduced him to his connections hereabout,
+Branthwaite being the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother
+having married a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."]
+
+[Footnote 11: PIERCE PENNILESS, by Thomas Nash. London, 1592.]
+
+[Footnote 12: This "ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is
+historically known as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."]
+
+[Footnote 13: RECEITE.--A receptacle.]
+
+[Footnote 14: VAUSTITY.--Emptiness.]
+
+[Footnote 15: _See_ Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb.
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 16: CORYATIZING.--Thomas Coryate, an English traveller, who
+called himself the "Odcombian leg-stretcher." He was the son of the
+rector of Odcombe, and in 1611 published an account of his travels on
+the Continent with the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily
+gobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia,
+commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some
+parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the
+hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed to
+the nourishment of the travelling members of this Kingdome, &c. London,
+printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611." Taylor had an especial grudge
+against Coryat, for having had influence enough to procure his "Laugh
+and be Fat"--directed against the traveller--to be burned; and that he
+never failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many
+pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities," even after
+his death.]
+
+[Footnote 17: TOPHET.--The Hebrew name for _Hell_.]
+
+[Footnote 18: CIMMERIAN.--Pertaining to the Cimmerii, or their country;
+extremely and perpetually dark. The Cimmerii were an ancient people of
+the land now called the Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy
+fogs, was fabled to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient
+poets also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near Lake
+Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to visit.]
+
+[Footnote 19: PERTH.]
+
+[Footnote 20: BRAEMAR.]
+
+[Footnote 21: VIRGINAL JACK.--A keyed instrument resembling a spinet.]
+
+[Footnote 22: RED-SHANKS.--A contemptuous appellation for Scottish Highland
+clansmen and native Irish, with reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and
+"As lively as a _Red-Shank_" is still a proverbial saying:--"And we came into
+Ireland, where they would have landed in the north parts. But I would
+not, because there the inhabitants were all _Red-shanks_."--_Sir Walter
+Raleigh's_ Speech on the Scaffold.]
+
+[Footnote 23: PUT ME INTO THAT SHAPE.--That is, invested him in Highland
+attire.]
+
+[Footnote 24: "Probably the district around the skirts of Ben
+Muicdui."--_Chambers'_ Domestic Annals of Scotland.]
+
+[Footnote 25: BALLOCH CASTLE.--Now called Castle-Grant.]
+
+[Footnote 26: MORAY.]
+
+[Footnote 27: MORAYLAND.]
+
+[Footnote 28: SUGAR-CANDIAN.--_i.e._, Sugar-candy.]
+
+[Footnote 29: A PIECE OF GOLD OF TWO-AND-TWENTY SHILLINGS.--"This was a
+considerable present; but Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his
+acquaintance. All his pleasures were social; and while health and
+fortune smiled upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents
+to those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's
+concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to Drummond
+is considered:--but there is one _evil that walks_, which keener eyes
+than John's have often failed to discover.--I have only to add, in
+justice to this honest man (Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the
+subject of it. He paid the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's
+memory:--the verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better
+to give."--Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's Ben
+Jonson's Works, p. xli.
+
+"In the summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben
+Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives for a
+journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be curiosity regarding
+a country from which he knew that his family was derived, his
+grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of Annandale. He had many
+friends too, particularly among the connections of the Lennox family,
+whom he might be glad to see at their own houses. Among those with whom
+he had amicable intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the
+prime of life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of
+Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is probable that
+Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and indulged together in
+the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar scenes. Indeed, there is a
+prevalent belief in Scotland that it was mainly to see Drummond at
+Hawthornden that Jonson came so far from home, and certain it is, from
+Drummond's report of his '_Conversations_,' that he designed 'to write a
+Fisher or Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play--and make the stage of it on the
+Lomond Lake--he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot Pilgrimage
+to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in one who found so
+much to admire where so little had been known, he spoke of entitling 'A
+DISCOVERY.' Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he
+called Edinburgh--
+
+     'The Heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye,'
+
+has not been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work
+contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's
+letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be regretted that
+we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by so vigorous a pen as
+that of the author of _Sejanual_"--_Chambers'_ Domestic
+Annals of Scotland, vol. 1.
+
+Whether Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and
+prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would now be
+difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks in his
+Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c.," he had been accused by
+the critics that he "_did undergo this project, either in malice, or
+mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson_." It is quite certain that Taylor
+lost no time in getting his "Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the
+author" immediately on his return to London on the fifteenth of October
+1618.]
+
+[Footnote 30: ROUSE.--A full glass, a bumper.]
+
+[Footnote 31: UNFELLOWED.--_i.e._, not matched.]
+
+[Footnote 32: TO ISLINGTON TO THE SIGN OF THE MAINDENHEAD.--This then
+roadside Public-house, we are informed from recent enquiries, was
+situate at the corner of Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's
+Cross, from a statue of George IV.--a most execrable performance taken
+down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named the
+Victoria, while Maiden Lane--an ancient way leading from Battle Bridge
+to Highgate Hill--is known now as York Road.]
+
+[Footnote 33: GUY OF WARWICK.--There are several versions and editions of
+this work. In the book of the Stationers' Company, John Trundle--he at
+the sign of NO-BODY--on the 15th of January, 1619, entered "a play,
+called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of Warwick, written by John Day
+and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.--"Well,
+if he read this with patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master
+Trundle yonder, the rest of my mortality."--_Ben Jonson's_ Every Man in
+his Humour, act i. sc. 2.]
+
+
+Corrections Made by Transcriber
+
+     Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his."
+     Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten."
+     Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes."
+     Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be."
+     Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor
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