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diff --git a/28108-8.txt b/28108-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..31b97c5 --- /dev/null +++ b/28108-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2323 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage + Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor + +Author: John Taylor + +Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE *** + + + + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES + +1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes missing or + missplaced in the original. These have been made consistent with + modern convention. + +2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been added. + +3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end + the book. + +4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at the + end of the book. + + + +THE +PENNYLES +PILGRIMAGE, + +OR + +The Money-lesse perambulation, + +of JOHN TAYLOR, _Alias_ +the Kings Majesties +_Water-Poet_. + +HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT +from _London_ to _Edenborough_ in _Scotland_, not carrying +any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing, +or Asking Meate, drinke or +Lodging. + +_With his Description of his Entertainment_ +in all places of his Journey, and a true Report +of the unmatchable Hunting in the _Brea_ +of _Marre_ and _Badenoch_ in +_Scotland_. + +With other Observations, some serious and +worthy of Memory, and some merry +and not hurtfull to be Remembred. + +_Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer) +all is true._ + +LONDON + +Printed by _Edw: Allde_, at the charges of the +Author. 1618 + + + + +TO THE TRULY +NOBLE AND RIGHT +HONORABLE LORD GEORGE MARQUIS +of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of +Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's +Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master +of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen +of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight +of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and +one of his Majesty's most Honorable +Privy Council of both the +Kingdoms of England +and Scotland. + + +Right Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I was +entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, Worshipful +Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in England and Scotland. +So now your Lordship's inclination hath incited, or invited my poor muse +to shelter herself under the shadow of your honorable patronage, not +that there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in all +humility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that +is able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever. + + Your Honors, + + In all observance, + + JOHN TAYLOR. + + +[Decorative thought break] + + + + +TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS, +BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER, +MY GENERAL SALUTATION. + + +_Reader, these Travels of mine into_ Scotland, _were not undertaken, +neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised by +myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends both in this Kingdom of_ +England, _and that of_ Scotland, _and because I would be an eye-witness +of divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas many +shallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by +others, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage +of Master_ Benjamin Jonson, _I vow by the faith of a Christian, that +their imaginations are all wide, for he is a gentleman, to whom I am so +much obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received from +him, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudent +or ungrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own +instigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so much +goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if you +expect_ + +That I should write of cities' situations, +Or that of countries I should make relations: +Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills, +Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills, +Of shires, and piers, and memorable things, +Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings, +I touch not those, they not belong to me; +But if such things as these you long to see, +Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read +The learned _Camden_, or laborious _Speed_. + + _And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest + + Yours in all thankfulness:_ + + JOHN TAYLOR. + + +[Decorative thought break] + + + + +TAYLOR'S +PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE. + + + List Lordlings, list (if you have lust to list) + I write not here a tale of had I wist: + But you shall hear of travels, and relations, + Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions. + And he that not believes what here is writ, + Let him (as I have done) make proof of it. + The year of grace, accounted (as I ween) + One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen, + And to relate all things in order duly, + 'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July, + Saint _Revels_ day, the almanack will tell ye + The sign in _Virgo_ was, or near the belly: + The moon full three days old, the wind full south; + At these times I began this trick of youth. + I speak not of the tide, for understand, + My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land, + Though in the morning I began to go + Good fellows trooping, flocked me so, + That make what haste I could, the sun was set, + E're from the gates of _London_ I could get. + At last I took my latest leave thus late, + At the Bell Inn, that's _extra Aldersgate_. + There stood a horse that my provant[1] should carry, + From that place to the end of my fegary,[2] + My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag, + That with good understanding bore my bag: + And of good carriage he himself did show, + These things are excellent in a beast you know. + There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees) + I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese + With roses, barberries, of each conserves, + And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves: + And I entreat you take these words for no-lies, + I had good _Aqua vitę, Rosa_ so-lies: + With sweet _Ambrosia_, (the gods' own drink) + Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think, + Besides, I had both vinegar and oil, + That could a daring saucy stomach foil. + This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine, + Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine, + I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun, + And went that night as far as _Islington_. + There did I find (I dare affirm it bold) + A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old, + But surely it was painted, like a whore, + And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door, + Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long, + May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong. + There did my loving friendly host begin + To entertain me freely to his inn: + And there my friends, and good associates, + Each one to mirth himself accommodates. + _At Well-head_ both for welcome, and for cheer, + Having a good _New ton_, of good stale beer: + There did we _Trundle_[3] down health, after health, + (Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.) + Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk, + And only _No-body_[3] was three parts drunk. + The morrow next, Wednesday Saint _Swithin's_ day, + From ancient _Islington_ I took my way. + At _Holywell_ I was enforced carouse, + Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House. + But there's a help to make amends for all, + That though the ale be great, the pots be small. + At _Highgate_ Hill to a strange house I went, + And saw the people were to eating bent, + In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought, + But most laborious with my teeth I wrought. + I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant, + But I did practise thus before my want; + Like to a Tilter that would win the prize, + Before the day he'll often exercise. + So I began to put in use, at first + These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst. + Close to the Gate,[4] there dwelt a worthy man, + That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can, + Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil, + Do call him _Robin Pluto_, or the devil. + But finding him a devil, freely hearted, + With friendly farewells I took leave and parted, + And as alongst I did my journey take, + I drank at _Broom's well_, for pure fashion's sake, + Two miles I travelled then without a bait, + The Saracen's Head at _Whetstone_ entering straight, + I found an host, that might lead an host of men, + Exceeding fat, yet named _Lean_, and _Fen_.[5] + And though we make small reckoning of him here, + He's known to be a very great man there. + There I took leave of all my company, + Bade all farewell, yet spake to _No-body_. + Good reader think not strange, what I compile, + For _No-body_ was with me all this while. + And _No-body_ did drink, and, wink, and scink, + And on occasion freely spent his chink. + If anyone desire to know the man, + Walk, stumble, _Trundle_, but in _Barbican_. + There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd, + And in that street kind _No-body_[6] is hanged. + But leaving him unto his matchless fame, + I to St. _Albans_ in the evening came, + Where Master _Taylor_, at the Saracen's Head, + Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed. + The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all, + Saved me a labour, that I need not call, + The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round, + And in a word great kindness there I found, + For which both to my cousin, and his men, + I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen. + Till Thursday morning there I made my stay, + And then I went plain _Dunstable_ highway. + My very heart with drought methought did shrink, + I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink. + Which made me call to mind, that instant time, + That drunkenness was a most sinful crime. + When _Puddle-hill_ I footed down, and past + A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last. + There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread, + We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed. + And whilst two hours we there did take our ease, + My nag made shift to mump green pulse[7] and peas. + Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply, + And drank the water of a brook hard by. + Away toward _Hockley_ in the Hole, we make, + When straight a horseman did me overtake, + Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin, + I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin, + I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink, + And willingly I wished it drowned in drink. + Away rode he, but like an honest man, + I found at _Hockley_ standing at the Swan, + A formal tapster, with a jug and glass, + Who did arrest me: I most willing was + To try the action, and straight put in bail, + My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale, + To quit this kindness, I most willing am, + The man that paid for all, his name is _Dam_, + At the Green Dragon, against _Grays-Inn_ gate, + He lives in good repute, and honest state. + I forward went in this my roving race, + To _Stony Stratford_ I toward night did pace, + My mind was fixed through the town to pass, + To find some lodging in the hay or grass, + But at the _Queen's Arms_, from the window there, + A comfortable voice I chanced to hear, + Call _Taylor, Taylor_, and be hanged come hither, + I looked for small entreaty and went thither, + There were some friends, which I was glad to see, + Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me. + On Friday morn, as I would take my way, + My friendly host entreated me to stay, + Because it rained, he told me I should have + Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave. + I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor, + But if I live, I will requite him better. + (From _Stony Stratford_) the way hard with stones, + Did founder me, and vex me to the bones. + In blustering weather, both for wind and rain, + Through _Towcester_ I trotted with much pain, + Two miles from thence, we sat us down and dined, + Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind. + We having fed, away incontinent, + With weary pace toward _Daventry_ we went. + Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there, + And told me he would leave a jug of beer, + At _Daventry_ at the Horse-shoe for my use. + I thought it no good manners to refuse, + But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift, + Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift, + Came limping after to that stony town, + Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down. + There had my friend performed the words he said, + And at the door a jug of liquor staid, + The folks were all informed, before I came, + How, and wherefore my journey I did frame, + Which caused mine hostess from her door come out, + (Having a great wart rampant on her snout.) + The tapsters, hostlers, one another call, + The chamberlains with admiration all, + Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful, + As if some monster sent from the _Mogul_, + Some elephant from _Africa_, I had been, + Or some strange beast from the _Amazonian_ Queen. + As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl, + Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl, + So did these brainless asses, all amazed, + With admirable _Nonsense_ talked and gazed, + They knew my state (although not told by me) + That I could scarcely go, they all could see, + They drank of my beer, that to me was given, + But gave me not a drop to make all even, + And that which in my mind was most amiss, + My hostess she stood by and saw all this, + Had she but said, come near the house my friend, + For this day here shall be your journey's end. + Then had she done the thing which [she] did not, + And I in kinder words had paid the shot. + I do entreat my friends, (as I have some) + If they to _Daventry_ do chance to come, + That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance, + Or accident into that house they glance, + Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit, + My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,[8] + Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will, + You for your money shall be welcome still. + From thence that night, although my bones were sore, + I made a shift to hobble seven miles more: + The way to _Dunchurch_, foul with dirt and mire, + Able, I think, both man and horse to tire. + On _Dunsmoor_ Heath, a hedge doth there enclose + Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose. + Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly learn, + With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern, + Of which we made a field-bed in the field, + Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield. + There with my mother earth, I thought it fit + To lodge, and yet no incest did commit: + My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs, + And being weary, I went up no stairs: + The sky my canopy, bright _Phoebe_ shined + Sweet bawling _Zephyrus_ breathed gentle wind, + In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night, + Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light; + There barricadoed with a bank lay we + Below the lofty branches of a tree, + There my bed-fellows and companions were, + My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer: + But yet for all this most confused rout, + We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out. + Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster, + Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster; + And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,) + Allowed us a large covering and a blanket; + _Auroras_ face 'gan light our lodging dark, + We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark, + Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry, + I travelled to the city _Coventry_. + There Master Doctor _Holland_[9] caused me stay + The day of _Saturn_ and the Sabbath day. + Most friendly welcome, he me did afford, + I was so entertained at bed and board, + Which as I dare not brag how much it was, + I dare not be ingrate and let it pass, + But with thanks many I remember it, + (Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ, + He used me like his son, more than a friend, + And he on Monday his commends did send + To _Newhall_, where a gentleman did dwell, + Who by his name is hight _Sacheverell_. + The Tuesday _July's_ one and twentieth day, + I to the city _Lichfield_ took my way, + At _Sutton Coldfield_ with some friends I met, + And much ado I had from thence to get, + There I was almost put unto my trumps, + My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps; + But noble _Vulcan_, a mad smuggy smith, + All reparations me did furnish with. + The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod, + And he referred the payment unto God. + I found a friend, when I to _Lichfield_ came, + A joiner, and _John Piddock_ is his name. + He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt, + And he did furnish me with good provant: + He offered me some money, I refused it, + And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it, + That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass, + Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass, + With here and there a pelting scattered village, + Which yielded me no charity, or pillage: + For all the day, nor yet the night that followed. + One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed. + At night I came to a stony town called _Stone_. + Where I knew none, nor was I known of none: + I therefore through the streets held on my pace, + Some two miles farther to some resting place: + At last I spied a meadow newly mowed, + The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed: + We made a breach, and entered horse and man, + There our pavilion, we to pitch began, + Which we erected with green broom and hay, + To expel the cold, and keep the rain away; + The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower, + And presently there fell a mighty shower, + Which without intermission down did pour, + From ten a night, until the morning's four. + We all that time close in our couch did lie, + Which being well compacted kept us dry. + The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep, + And so a temperate diet we did keep. + The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs, + We being as ready as we had been dogs: + We need not stand upon long ready making, + But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking: + And for I found my host and hostess kind, + I like a true man left my sheets behind. + That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed, + Unto a town that is _Newcastle_ named. + (Not that _Newcastle_ standing upon _Tyne_) + But this town situation doth confine + Near _Cheshire_, in the famous county _Stafford_, + And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't; + But now my versing muse craves some repose, + And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose. + +In this town of _Newcastle_, I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what +the next town was called, that was in my way toward _Lancaster_, he +holding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute, +piped me this answer, and said, _Talk-on-the-Hill_; I asked him again +what he said _Talk-on-the-Hill_: I demanded the third time, and the +third time he answered me as he did before, _Talk-on-the-Hill_. I began +to grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my way +as well there as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town +was four miles off me, and that the name of it was, _Talk-on-the-Hill_: +I had not travelled above two miles farther: but my last night's supper +(which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by my +stomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun: +I have fared better at three Suns many times before now, in _Aldersgate +Street_, _Cripplegate_, and new _Fish Street_; but here is the odds, at +those Suns they will come upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting +as a tailor's bill of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls +not half so heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law +in their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of debt, +and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence there is no +appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the material Sunshine, we +eat a substantial dinner, and like miserable guests we did budget up the +reversions. + + And now with sleep my muse hath eased her brain + I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again. + That which we could not have, we freely spared, + And wanting drink, most soberly we fared. + We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way) + And kindly every step entreats me stay, + The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip, + One foot went forward, the other back would slip, + This weary day, when I had almost past, + I came unto Sir _Urian Leigh's_ at last, + At _Adlington_, near _Macclesfield_ he doth dwell, + Beloved, respected, and reputed well. + Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed, + From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next, + At his own table I did daily eat, + Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat, + He would have given me gold or silver either, + But I, with many thanks, received neither, + And thus much without flattery I dare swear, + He is a knight beloved far and near, + First he's beloved of his God above, + (Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love) + Next with a wife and children he is blest, + Each having God's fear planted in their breast. + With fair demaines, revenue of good lands, + He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands, + And as he's happy in these outward things, + So from his inward mind continual springs + Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety, + Good hospitable works of charity, + Just in his actions, constant in his word, + And one that won his honour with the sword, + He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight, + But he knows when, and how to speak or fight, + I cannot flatter him, say what I can, + He's every way a complete gentleman. + I write not this, for what he did to me, + But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see, + Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame + But to make others imitate the same, + For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow, + I would his worthy worth more amply show, + But I already fear have been too bold, + And crave his pardon, me excused to hold. + Thanks to his sons and servants every one, + Both males and females all, excepting none. + To bear a letter he did me require, + Near _Manchester_, unto a good Esquire: + His kinsman _Edmund Prestwitch_, he ordained, + That I was at _Manchester_ entertained + Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass, + For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass; + This gentleman not only gave harbour, + But in the morning sent me to his barber, + Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse, + Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse. + But in conclusion, when his work was ended, + His glass informed, my face was much amended. + And for the kindness he to me did show, + God grant his customers beards faster grow, + That though the time of year be dear or cheap, + From fruitful faces he may mow and reap. + Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail, + He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did fail, + Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt, + Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt: + Can these kind things be in oblivion hid? + No, Master _Prestwitch_, this and much more did, + His friendship did command and freely gave + All before writ, and more than I durst crave. + But leaving him a little, I must tell, + How men of _Manchester_ did use me well, + Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack, + Roast, boiled, baked, too--too--much, white, claret, sack, + Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot, + Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot, + That what they could do, all they thought too little, + Striving in love the traveller to whittle. + We went into the house of one _John Pinners_, + (A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners) + And there eight several sorts of ale we had, + All able to make one stark drunk or mad. + But I with courage bravely flinched not, + And gave the town leave to discharge the shot. + We had at one time set upon the table, + Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no Ęsop-fable: + Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt, + And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt, + With ale of rosemary, and betony, + And two ales more, or else I needs must lie. + But to conclude this drinking aley-tale, + We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale. + Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost, + Did strive whose love should be expressed most, + And farther to declare their boundless loves, + They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves, + In deed, and very deed, their loves were such, + That in their praise I cannot write too much; + They merit more than I have here compiled, + I lodged at the Eagle and the Child, + Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman) + Did entertain me with respect, not common. + She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed, + And on my way she caused me be refreshed, + She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon, + Which by me much refused, at last was taken, + In troth she proved a mother unto me, + For which, I evermore will thankful be. + But when to mind these kindnesses I call, + Kind Master _Prestwitch_ author is of all, + And yet Sir _Urian Leigh's_ good commendation, + Was the main ground of this my recreation. + From both of them, there what I had, I had, + Or else my entertainment had been bad. + O all you worthy men of _Manchester_, + (True bred bloods of the County _Lancaster_) + When I forget what you to me have done, + Then let me headlong to confusion run. + To noble Master _Prestwitch_ I must give + Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live, + His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score, + He far surpassed all that went before, + A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty, + To bring me quite through _Lancaster's_ large county, + Which I well know is fifty miles at large, + And he defrayed all the cost and charge. + This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure, + That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure. + So Mistress _Saracoal_, hostess kind, + And _Manchester_ with thanks I left behind. + The Wednesday being _July's_ twenty nine, + My journey I to _Preston_ did confine, + All the day long it rained but one shower, + Which from the morning to the evening did pour, + And I, before to _Preston_ I could get, + Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat, + But there I was supplied with fire and food, + And anything I wanted sweet and good. + There, at the Hind, kind Master _Hind_ mine host, + Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast, + There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay, + And hardly got from thence on Saturday. + Unto my lodging often did repair, + Kind Master _Thomas Banister_, the Mayor, + Who is of worship, and of good respect, + And in his charge discreet and circumspect. + For I protest to God I never saw, + A town more wisely governed by the law. + They told me when my Sovereign there was last, + That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste. + It grieved them all, but when at last they found, + His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned. + He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds, + He did accept their kind intents, for deeds: + One man there was, that with his zeal too hot, + And furious haste, himself much overshot. + But what man is so foolish, that desires + To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars? + Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here, + Because I saw how much they grieved were; + That any way, the least part of offence, + Should make them seem offensive to their Prince. + Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in _Preston_, + And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on, + Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent, + And on my way two miles, with me he went, + There (by good chance) I did more friendship get, + The under Sheriff of _Lancashire_ we met, + A gentleman that loved, and knew me well, + And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell. + There, as if I had been a noted thief, + The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff. + The Sheriff's authority did much prevail, + He sent me unto one that kept the jail. + Thus I perambuling, poor _John Taylor_, + Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor. + The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer, + Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear, + For the under-Sheriff kind Master _Covill_ named, + (A man for house-keeping renowed and famed) + Did cause the town of _Lancashire_ afford + Me welcome, as if I had been a lord. + And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty, + His mate can scarce be found in all that county. + The extremes of miser, or of prodigal, + He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal, + His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed, + That _Argus_ eyes could see no odds betwixt, + And sure the difference, (if there difference be) + Is who shall do most good, or he, or she. + Poor folks report, that for relieving them, + He and his wife, are each of them a gem; + At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid, + And what was to be paid, I know he paid: + If nothing of their kindness I had wrote, + Ungrateful me the world might justly note: + Had I declared all I did hear, and see, + For a great flatterer then I deemed should be, + Him and his wife, and modest daughter _Bess_, + With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless. + Two days a man of his, at his command, + Did guide me to the midst of _Westmoreland_, + And my conductor with a liberal fist, + To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed. + The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame) + We in the dark, to a town called _Sedbergh_ came, + There Master _Borrowed_, my kind honest host, + Upon me did bestowed unasked cost. + The next day I held on my journey still, + Six miles unto a place called _Carling_ hill, + Where Master _Edmund Branthwaite_[10] doth reside, + Who made me welcome, with my man and guide. + Our entertainment, and our fare were such, + It might have satisfied our betters much; + Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought, + And five miles on my way himself me brought, + At _Orton_ he, I, and my man did dine, + With Master _Corney_ a good true Divine, + And surely Master _Branthwaite_'s well beloved, + His firm integrity is much approved: + His good effects, do make him still affected + Of God and good men, (with regard) respected. + He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down, + Who lodged, and boarded me at _Penrith_ town, + And such good cheer, and bedding there I had, + That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad; + There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake) + With me a journey would to _Carlisle_ make: + But from that city, about two miles wide, + Good Sir _John Dalston_ lodged me and my guide. + Of all the gentlemen in _England's_ bounds + His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds, + And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud, + He's free from being covetous, or proud; + His son, Sir _George_, most affable, and kind, + His father's image, both in form and mind, + On Saturday to _Carlisle_ both did ride, + Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide, + Where of good entertainment I found store, + From one that was the mayor the year before, + His name is Master _Adam Robinson_, + I the last English friendship with him won. + He (_gratis_) found a guide to bring me through, + + [Sidenote: _My thanks + to Sir John + and Sir Geo. + Dalston, with + Sir Henry + Curwin._] + + From _Carlisle_ to the city _Edinburgh_: + This was a help, that was a help alone, + Of all my helps inferior unto none. + Eight miles from _Carlisle_ runs a little river, + Which _England's_ bounds, from _Scotland's_ grounds doth sever. + Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get + +[Sidenote: _Over Esk I +waded._] + + On foot, I went, yet scarce my shoes did wet. + I being come to this long-looked-for land, + Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned; + And I saw nothing that could change my will, + But that I thought myself in _England_ still. + The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed, + There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt; + There I saw sky above, and earth below, + And as in _England_, there the sun did show; + The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale, + +[Sidenote: _The afore-named +knights +had given money +to my +guide, of which +he left some +part at every +ale-house._] + + And many a cottage yielded good Scottish ale; + This county (_Avondale_) in former times, + Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes: + For _Cumberland_ and it, both kingdoms borders, + Were ever ordered, by their own disorders, + Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving, + Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving; + And many times he that had wealth to-night, + Was by the morrow morning beggared quite: + Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted, + That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted, + Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled, + The churches with the lowly ground were levelled; + All memorable monuments defaced, + All places of defence o'erthrown and razed. + That whoso then did in the borders dwell, + Lived little happier than those in hell. + But since the all-disposing God of heaven, + Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given, + Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered, + Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured, + That now each subject may securely sleep, + His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep, + For now those crowns are both in one combined, + Those former borders, that each one confine, + Appears to me (as I do understand) + To be almost the centre of the land, + This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle, + To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle. + Long may the instrumental cause survive. + From him and his, succession still derive + True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne, + That these two kingdoms ever may be one; + This county of all _Scotland_ is most poor, + By reason of the outrages before, + Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow, + And as good grass as ever man did mow: + And as that day I twenty miles did pass, + I saw eleven hundred neat at grass, + By which may be conjectured at the least, + That there was sustenance for man and beast. + And in the kingdom I have truly scanned, + There's many worser parts, are better manned, + For in the time that thieving was in ure, + The gentles fled to places more secure. + And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain, + Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again. + The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty, + Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty, + Twixt it and England, little odds I see, + They eat, and live, and strong and able be, + So much in verse, and now I'll change my style, + And seriously I'll write in prose awhile. + +To the purpose then: my first night's lodging in _Scotland_ was at a +place called _Moffat_, which they say, is thirty miles from _Carlisle_, +but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt +_London_ and Saint _Albans_, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost as +large measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an English +gallon either of ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile +(now and then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but +howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest that +ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found good +ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was sweet and +good, and might have served a far better man than myself, although +myself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though +it rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice, +for I waded over a great river called _Esk_ in the morning, somewhat +more than four miles distance from _Carlisle_ in _England_, and at night +within two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the river of +_Annan_ in _Scotland_, from which river the county of _Annandale_, hath +its name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback, +like the _George_ without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and +left _Moffat_ behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one miles to a +sorry village called _Blythe_, but I was blithe myself to come to any +place of harbour or succour, for since I was born, I never was so weary, +or so near being dead with extreme travel: I was foundered and +refoundered of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that +I must lodge without doors all night, or else in a poor house where the +good wife lay in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant +maid being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially +adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I must +either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got eggs and +ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the +floor by me, where in the night there were pigeons did very bountifully +mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and having but fifteen +miles to _Edinburgh_, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to +hobble, and after to amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by +degrees; all the way passing through a fertile country for corn and +cattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday, +being the thirteenth of August, and the day of _Clare_ the Virgin (the +sign being in _Virgo_) the moon four days old, the wind at west, I came +to take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous city of +_Edinburgh_, which I entered like Pierce Penniless,oeee11] altogether +moneyless, but I thank God, not friendless; for being there, for the +time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I +could get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure +the price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to +suffer him and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of +litter, till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that +would desperately disburse. + +Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with travel, and my +mind attired with moody, muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation +did devotely pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being +willing to take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing, +and circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his +picture, but all my acquaintance was _Non est inventus_, (pardon me, +reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by _Priscian's +Pericranium_, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times.) At +last I resolved, that the next gentleman that I meet withal, should be +acquaintance whether he would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon +a gentleman-like object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something +through him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my +gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way and +made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving to +encounter with any man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thus +accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder gentleman, (meaning me) know +me, that he looks so wistly on me? Truly sir, said my man, I think not, +but my master is a stranger come from _London_, and would gladly meet +some acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging and +horse-meat. Presently the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition) +overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a +lodging, and caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we +discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to him, as +made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master _John Maxwell_) +which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from out +the walls of _London_: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself, +the gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as my +poor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe. + +The Castle on a lofty rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, and +founded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the foundation +and walls are unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks +invincible, no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable. +In a word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in _Germany_, the +_Netherlands_, _Spain_ and _England_, but they must all give place to +this unconquered Castle, both for strength and situation. + +Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I noted +especially a great piece of ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but +it will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against +any that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now +dismounted.[12] And it is so great within, that it was told me that a +child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept into it, lying +on my back, and I am sure there was room enough and spare for a greater +than myself. + +So leaving the Castle, as it is both defensive against my opposition, +and magnific for lodging and receite,[13] I descended lower to the City, +wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyes +beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (which +is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair port which they call +the _Nether-Bow_) and from that port, the street which they call the +_Kenny-gate_ is one quarter of a mile more, down to the King's Palace, +called _Holy-rood-House_, the buildings on each side of the way being +all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, and many +bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's +houses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, for in the +High Street the merchants and tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen's +mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid +lanes: the walls are eight or ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not +built for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from antiquity to +posterity, for many ages; there I found entertainment beyond my +expectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such +variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety. +The worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there +such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man had +asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could not have made +him a sober answer. + +I was at his Majesty's Palace, a stately and princely seat, wherein I +saw a sumptuous chapel, most richly adorned with all appurtenances +belonging to so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner +court I saw the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a +door aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which was +written this inscription in Latin, + + _Nobis hęc invicta miserunt, 106 proavi._ + +I enquired what the English of it was? it was told +me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be +recorded. + + _106, forefathers have left this to us unconquered._ + +This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms or none +in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many +inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreign +hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre the +strength and policy of enemies, that royal crown and sceptre hath from +one hundred and seven descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power +of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now +left peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the +God of peace defend and govern. + +But once more, a word or two of _Edinburgh_, although I have scarcely +given it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately +buildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades +me that they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well +in that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the sea, and all +navigable rivers being the chief means for the enriching of towns and +cities, by the reason of traffic with foreign nations, with exportation, +transportation, and receite of variety of merchandizing; so this city +had it been built but one mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it +had long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns +and cities in _Europe_, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, state, +and riches. It is said, that King _James_ the fifth (of famous memory) +did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon them +freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the +seashore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their city, +and build it in that more commodious place, but the citizens refused it; +and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such +another proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two days +after the fair. + +Now have with you for _Leith_, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well +entertained by Master _Barnard Lindsay_, one of the grooms of his +Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because I +brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass for +current there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity[14] of my empty +purse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, each +being in value worth eleven shillings white money; and I was creditably +informed, that within the compass of one year, there was shipped away +from that only port of _Leith_, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats, +and barley into _Spain_, _France_, and other foreign parts, and every +bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from _Leith_ +only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of +corn; besides some hath been shipped away from Saint _Andrews_, from +_Dundee_, _Aberdeen_, _Dysart_, _Kirkaldy_, _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, +_Dunbar_, and other portable towns, which makes me to wonder that a +kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so much +bread-corn beyond the seas, and yet to have more than sufficient for +themselves. + +So I having viewed the haven and town of _Leith_, took a passage boat to +see the new wondrous Well,[15] to which many a one that is not well, +comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that it +had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or kill +divers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoiding +of the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with +many other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God, +having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done, +but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant +than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, and +I did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as much +as his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the +stomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity. + +I went two miles from it to a town called _Burntisland_, where I found +many of my especial good friends, as Master _Robert Hay_, one of the +Grooms of his Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master _David Drummond_, one of his +Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master _James Acmootye_, one of the Grooms of the +Privy Chamber, Captain _Murray_, Sir _Henry Witherington_ Knight, +Captain _Tyrie_, and divers others: and there Master _Hay_, Master +_Drummond_, and the good old Captain _Murray_ did very bountifully +furnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those +aforesaid gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange +accident, which I think worth the relating. + +I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at sea in +former times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of +_Cadiz_; whereto an English gentleman replied, that he was the next good +voyage after at the Islands: I answered him that I was there also. He +demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens: +why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my name +is _Witherington_. + +Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is near +two and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of +you. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some +remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him two +or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will +tell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotton; as our +ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at anchor at the Isle of +_Flores_ (one of the Isles of the _Azores_) there were some fourteen men +and boys of our ship, that for novelty would go ashore, and see what +fruit the island did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so +being landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones, +heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, musk-mellions, +and potatoes; in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea +was so extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to +fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks; +this continued five days, so that we were almost famished for want of +food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of God +I happened into a cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves +of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in _England_, I having a +valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty hours +breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: and as I was +about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put twelve of them +into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the cave, +leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a gentleman came to +me, and said, "Friend, what are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For +God's sake," said he, "give me some." With that, I put my hand into my +breech, (being my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received +with many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he would. + +I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir _Henry Witherington_ did +acknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the loaf unto two and +twenty years before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more +privilege than mountains in meeting. + +In what great measure he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relate +in this following discourse in my return through _Northumberland_: so +leaving my man at the town of _Burntisland_, I told him, I would but go +to _Stirling_, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourable +friends the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ Knight, Lord of +_Abercairney_, and that I would return within two days at the most: but +it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and thirty days before I +could get back again out of these noble men's company. The whole +progress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay I cannot with +gratefulness omit; and thus it was. + +A worthy gentleman named Master _John Fenton_, did bring me on my way +six miles to _Dunfermline_, where I was well entertained, and lodged at +Master _John Gibb_ his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's +Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King hath: withal, I was +well entertained there by Master _Crighton_ at his own house, who went +with me, and shewed me the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely +Mansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey, +with fair gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which +with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, were +annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, which though +it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been much +larger. But I taking my leave of _Dunfermline_, would needs go and see +the truly noble Knight Sir _George Bruce_, at a town called the +_Culross_: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare, +and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see his +most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is a +wonder; for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor any +history that I have read, or any discourse that I have heard, did never +see, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or be +equivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I +can say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his +vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer +of it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so +accomplished a profit to the common-wealth shall be raked and smothered +in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the description +of it, although I amongst writers, am like he that worse may hold the +candle. + +The mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land; +but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please, +and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it: +but I for variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may +object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being into the +sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the mine? To which +objection thus I answer, that at low water mark, the sea being ebbed +away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (being +mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of this great work build a +round circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined together +with glutinous or bituminous matter, so high withal that the sea at the +highest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither +dissolve the stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow +the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did +set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments fit +for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into and through a +rock. At last they found that which they expected, which was sea coal, +they following the vein of the mine, did dig forward still: so that in +the space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years, they have +digged more than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at +work below, an hundred of the greatest ships in _Britain_ man sail over +their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut like an arch or +a vault, all that great length, with many nooks and bye-ways: and it is +so made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in and +out. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through the +want of employment would perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was +come forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir _George Bruce_, I +told him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had +seen this mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have left +the Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to have +blown up the barges and wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates +of our kingdom were. Moreover, I said, that I could afford to turn +tapster at _London_, so that I had but + one quarter of a mile of his mine to make me + a cellar, to keep beer and bottled ale + in. But leaving these jests in + prose, I will relate a few + verses that I made + merrily of this + mine. + + I that have wasted, months, weeks, days, and hours + In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers, + Without all measure, measuring many paces, + And with my pen describing many places, + With few additions of mine own devising, + (Because I have a smack of _Coryatizing_[16]) + Our _Mandeville_, _Primaleon_, _Don Quixote_, + Great _Amadis_, or _Huon_, travelled not + As I have done, or been where I have been, + Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen; + Nor Britain's _Odcombe_ (_Zany_ brave _Ulysses_) + In all his ambling, saw the like as this is. + I was in (would I could describe it well) + A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell, + And as by water I was wafted in, + I thought that I in _Charon's_ boat had been, + But being at the entrance landed thus, + Three men there (instead of _Cerberus_) + Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light + To guide us in that vault of endless night, + There young and old with glim'ring candles burning + Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning, + Some in a hole with baskets and with bags, + Resembling furies, or infernal hags: + There one like _Tantalus_ feeding, and there one, + Like _Sisyphus_ he rolls the restless stone. + Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit, + Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet[17] + For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell, + There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell; + And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory, + Than _Rome_ doth by fantastic Purgatory. + A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep, + In deepness far more deep, than _Neptunes_ deep, + Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high) + Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky: + That had I died in that _Cimmerian_[18] room, + Four elements had covered o'er my tomb: + Thus farther than the bottom did I go, + (And many Englishmen have not done so;) + Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales, + And regiments of fish with fins and scales, + 'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide, + And where great ships may at an anchor ride: + Thus in by sea, and out by land I past, + And took my leave of good Sir _George_ at last. + +The sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the mine, which by the +industry of Sir _George Bruce_, is all conveyed to one well near the +land; where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses +and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty-six +buckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen go down still to +be filled, and eighteen ascend up to be emptied, which do empty +themselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys the +water into the sea again; by which means he saves his mine, which +otherwise would be destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every +week ninety or a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of +_Scotland_, some he sends into _England_, and very much into _Germany_: +all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthy +endeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, and +lastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to +_Stirling_, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately +house called _Allaway_, belonging to the Earl of _Mar_ which by reason +that his honour was not there, I past by and went to _Stirling_, where I +was entertained and lodged at one Master John _Archibalds_, where all my +want was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I might +have had there! he had me into the castle, which in few words I do +compare to _Windsor_ for situation, much more than _Windsor_ in +strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that his +Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in +_England_ or _Scotland_, except Westminster Hall which is now no +dwelling hall for a prince, being long since metamorphosed into a house +for the law and the profits. + +This goodly hall was built by King _James_ the fourth, that married King +_Henry_ the Eight's sister, and after was slain at _Flodden field_; but +it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, for +length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle is built +upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond _Edinburgh_ Castle in state and +magnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of it +are lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each room +being so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber +or lodging. There is also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables, +and all other necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the +majesty of a king. + +From _Stirling_ I rode to Saint _Johnstone_,[19] a fine town it is, but +it is much decayed, by reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming +to lodge there. There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the +house his name being _Patrick Pitcairne_, where my entertainment was +with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Mine +host told me that the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ of +_Abercairney_ were gone to the great hunting to the _Brae_ of _Mar_[20]; +but if I made haste I might perhaps find them at a town called +_Brekin_, or _Brechin_, two and thirty miles from Saint _Johnstone_ +whereupon I took a guide to _Brechin_ the next day, but before I came, +my lord was gone from thence four days. + +Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways over +mountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I am +sure I never saw any ways that might fellow them I did go through a +country called _Glen Esk_, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep +as the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yard +broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into the +bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen without +recovery a good mile downright; but I thank God, at +night I came to a lodging in the Laird of _Edzell's_ land, where I lay +at an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English, +but I supped and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was +enforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musquitoes, a +creature that hath six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon +man's flesh, they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this +house was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in +_England_, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to me the _A._ +and the _Z._ the prologue and the epilogue, the first and the last that +I had in all my travels from _Edinburgh_; and had not this Highland +Irish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all +_Scotland_ had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse upon me: but +with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, and was never more +troubled with them. + +The next day I travelled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount +_Skene_, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; but +when I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with +cold, like Virginal's jacks;[21] and withal, a most familiar mist +embraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way: +withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my +clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, in +wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, the +way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, that +a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with four; for do what we +could, we were four hours before we could pass it. + +Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting and +alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brae of +_Mar_, which is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that +Shooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampstead Hill, Birdlip +Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like a +liver, or a gizard under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of +their tops, or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount _Ben +Aven_, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a night-cap: +(for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the +snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well as +in winter.) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords +_John Erskine_ Earl of Mar, _James Stuart_ Earl of Murray, _George +Gordon_ Earl of Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, _James +Erskine_ Earl of Buchan, and _John_ Lord _Erskine_, son and heir to the +Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best +assured and approved friend, Sir _William Murray_ Knight, of +_Abercairney_, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and their +followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if _Lycurgus_ +had been there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which +is the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many of +the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do come into +these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform themselves to +the habit of the Highland men, who for the most part speak nothing but +Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the +_Red-shanks_.[22] Their habit is shoes with but one sole apiece; +stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of divers +colours, which they call tartan: as for breeches, many of them, nor +their forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that +their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw, +with a plaid about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, +of much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps on +their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their neck; and +thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows and forked +arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, dirks, and Lochaber +axes. With these arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for +their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them, +must not disdain to wear it; for if they do, then they will disdain to +hunt, or willingly, to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto +them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and +the sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so many +noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting. + +My good Lord of _Mar_ having put me into that shape,[23] I rode with him +from his house, where I saw the ruins of an old castle, called the +castle of _Kindroghit_ [Castletown]. It was built by King _Malcolm +Canmore_ (for a hunting house) who reigned in _Scotland_ when _Edward_ +the Confessor, _Harold_, and Norman _William_ reigned in _England_: I +speak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts; +for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, +corn field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses, +wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never +have seen a house again.[24] + +Thus the first day we travelled eight miles, where there small cottages +built on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good +Lord _Erskine_, he commanded that I should always be lodged in his +lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many kettles +and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great variety +of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and stewed beef, mutton, +goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, hens, capons, chickens, +partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, capercailzies, and termagants +[ptarmigans]; good ale, sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante) +with most potent _Aquavitę_. + +All these, and more than these we had continually, in superfluous +abundance, caught by Falconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my +Lord's tenants and purveyors to victual our camp, which consisted of +fourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is +this: five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do +disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles compass, +they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, three, or four +hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the Nobleman shall +appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and gentlemen of their +companies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up to +their middles through bournes and rivers: and then: they being come to +the place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid scouts which +are called the Tinchel, do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says +of a bad cook, so these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for +besides their bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear +now and then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom +discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or +thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round about +us, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed close +by the Tinchel, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then all +the valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong +Irish greyhounds, they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the +herd of deer, so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in +the space of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are +disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty miles, and +more than enough left for us to make merry withal at our rendezvous. I +liked the sport so well, that I made these two sonnets following. + + Why should I waste invention to indite, + _Ovidian_ fictions, or Olympian games? + My misty Muse enlightened with more light, + To a more noble pitch her aim she frames. + I must relate to my great Master JAMES, + The Caledonian annual peaceful war; + How noble minds do eternize their fames, + By martial meeting in the Brae of _Mar_: + How thousand gallant spirits came near and far, + With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns, + That all the troop to men of judgment, are + The God of Wars great never conquered sons, + The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts, + And last the victor on the vanquished feasts. + If sport like this can on the mountains be, + Where _Phoebus_ flames can never melt the snow; + Then let who list delight in vales below, + Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me: + What braver object can man's eyesight see, + Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights, + As if they were prepared for sundry fights, + Yet all in sweet society agree? + Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs, + 'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills, + Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs, + Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills. + Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat, + The Highland games and minds, are high and great. + +Being come to our lodgings, there was such baking, boiling, roasting, +and stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil +in his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an +indifferent May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of _Mar_ will give +any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that are as +good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they were in any +place near the Thames, or any other portable river) the best earldom in +England or Scotland either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing +there, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world) +for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, barks, and +water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years. + +This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands do +know that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is +the pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in +such rocky mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be +passable, either with boat, horse, or cart. + +Thus having spent certain days in hunting in the Brae of _Mar_, we went +to the next county called _Badenoch_, belonging to the Earl of _Enzie_, +where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after four +or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and took +our journey toward a strong house of the Earl's, called _Ruthven_ in +_Badenoch_, where my Lord of _Enzie_ and his noble Countess (being +daughter to the Earl of _Argyle_) did give us most noble welcome three +days. + +From thence we went to a place called _Balloch Castle_,[25] a fair and +stately house, a worthy gentleman being the owner of it, called the +Laird of _Grant_; his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended +being sister to the right Honourable Earl of _Athol_, and to Sir +_Patrick Murray_ Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardly +plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: so that our +cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could afford +us. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knights +and Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every meal +four long tables furnished with all varieties: our first and second +course being three score dishes at one board; and after that always a +banquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to _Edinburgh_ +I think I had there drunk my last. + +The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to _Tarnaway_, a goodly +house of the Earl of _Murrays_,[26] where that Right Honourable Lord and +his Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all +variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed the +County of _Murray_ is the most pleasantest and plentiful country in all +_Scotland_; being plain land, that a coach may be driven more than four +and thirty miles one way in it, alongst by the sea-coast. + +From thence I went to _Elgin_ in _Murray_,[27] an ancient City, where +there stood a fair and beautiful church with three steeples, the walls +of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, and +many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy personages all +broken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bare rule, and +Knox knocked down churches. + +From _Elgin_ we went to the Bishop of _Murray_ his house which is called +_Spiny_, or _Spinay_: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of +_Douglas_, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour of +himself and his guests. + +From thence we departed to the Lord Marquess of _Huntlys_ to a sumptuous +house of his, named the _Bog of Geethe_, where our entertainment was +like himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days +stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords to +depart towards _Edinburgh_: the Noble Marquess, the Earl of _Mar_, +_Murray_, _Enzie_, _Buchan_, and the Lord _Erskine_; all these, I thank +them, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey. + +So after five and thirty days hunting and travel I returning, past by +another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called _Stroboggy_, and +so over _Carny_ mount to _Brechin_, where a wench that was born deaf and +dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she opening +the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had I been a +_Sardanapalus_, or a _Heliogabulus_, I think that either the great +travel over the mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty could +never have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was as +sweet as sugar-candian,[28] being very well shouldered beneath the +waste; and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed +her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But +howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of my +sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knew +who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; and +for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair. + +Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins as at _Brechin_, I +departed from thence to a town called _Forfor_; and from thence to +_Dundee_, and so to _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, and so to _Edinburgh_, +where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises, which +I received in my travel in the Highland mountainous hunting. Great +welcome I had showed me all my stay at _Edinburgh_, by many worthy +gentlemen, namely, old Master _George Todrigg_, Master _Henry +Livingston_, Master _James Henderson_, Master _John Maxwell_, and a +number of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may +be imagined. + +Now the day before I came from _Edinburgh_, I went to _Leith_, where I +found my long approved and assured good friend Master _Benjamin Jonson_, +at one Master _John Stuarts_ house; I thank him for his great kindness +towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold of +two and twenty shillings[29] to drink his health in _England_. And +withal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends: +So with a friendly farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see +him in a worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that +know his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much respective +love he is worthily entertained. + +So leaving _Leith_ I returned to _Edinburgh_, and within the port or +gate, called the _Nether-Bow_, I discharged my pockets of all the money +I had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my first +coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came moneyless out +of it again; having in company to convey me out, certain gentlemen, +amongst the which Master _James Acherson_, Laird of _Gasford_, a +gentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainment +he and his good wife did welcome me. + +On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called +_Adam_, to Master _John Acmootye_ his house, one of the Grooms of his +Majesty's Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master +_Alexander_, and Master _James Acmootye_, I found both cheer and +welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any former place. + +Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole and +Goose (_sic_), a most delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in +a little rock called the _Bass_, which stands two miles into the sea. It +is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat oysters, +standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, unsanctified without +grace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or three +good rouses[30] of sherry or canary sack. The Lord or owner of the +_Bass_ doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those geese; +the _Bass_ itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a +mile in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one +small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in it; and +on the top of it a well of pure fresh water. + +From _Adam_, Master _John_ and Master _James Acmootye_ went to the town +of _Dunbar_ with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed, +and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master _James Baylies_ +house I took leave, and Master _James Acmootye_ coming for _England_, +said, that if I would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want +betwixt that place and _London_. Now I having no money nor means for +travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last my want +persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's undeserved +courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called _Cockburnspath_, +where we lodged at an inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in any +of his Majesty's Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master +_William Arnot_ and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their +bountiful entertainment of guests, which is this: + +Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at their +house, the men shall have flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all +variety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall +want neither hay or provender: and at the morning at their departure the +reckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his +chief delight being only to give strangers entertainment _gratis_: and I +am sure, that in _Scotland_ beyond _Edinburgh_, I have been at houses +like castles for building; the master of the house his beaver being his +blue bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the flax that +grows on his own ground, and of his wife's, daughters', or servants' +spinning; that hath his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his +own sheep's backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer, +draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn +bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains +thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day relieving +three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, can +give noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or six +earls and lords, besides knights, gentlemen and their followers, if they +be three or four hundred men, and horse of them, where they shall not +only feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man that +desires to know nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose +greatest cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and +hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless fashions, +he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred acres on his +back at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered with +golden garters, and manacled with artificial roses, whose weight +(sometime) is the last reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these +worthy housekeepers there are in _Scotland_, amongst some of them I was +entertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaid +observations. + +So leaving _Cockburnspath_, we rode to _Berwick_, where the worthy old +Soldier and ancient Knight, Sir _William Bowyer_, made me welcome, but +contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master _James Acmootye_ +paid all charges: but at _Berwick_ there was a grievous chance happened, +which I think not fit the relation to be omitted. + +In the river of _Tweed_, which runs by _Berwick_, are taken by fishermen +that dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many +households and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but +(how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy +whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long amongst +them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday, +the salmons played in such great abundance in the river, that some of +the fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats and +nets and fished, and caught near three hundred salmons; but from that +time until Michaelmas day that I was there, which was nine weeks, and +heard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserable +lamentations, they had not seen one salmon in the river; and some of +them were in despair that they should never see any more there; +affirming it to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation of the +Sabbath. + +The thirtieth of September we rode from _Berwick_ to _Belford_ from +_Belford_ to _Alnwick_, the next day from _Alnwick_ to _Newcastle_, +where I found the noble Knight, Sir _Henry Witherington_; who, because I +would have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf +of bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the Island +of _Flores_, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at +_Newcastle_ a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for +_London_, namely, Master _Robert Hay_, and Master _David Drummond_, +where I was welcomed at Master _Nicholas Tempests_ house. From +_Newcastle_ I rode with those gentlemen to _Durham_, to _Darlington_, to +_Northallerton_, and to _Topcliffe_ in _Yorkshire_, where I took my +leave of them, and would needs try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and +see the city of _York_, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good +friend, Master Doctor _Hudson_ one of his Majesty's chaplains, who went +with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the most +admirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed[31] chapter house. + +From _York_ I rode to _Doncaster_, where my horses were well fed at the +Bear, but myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ +at his father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir _Robert Swifts_ house, he +being then High Sheriff of _Yorkshire_, where with their good Ladies, +and the right Honourable the Lord _Sanquhar_, I was stayed two nights +and one day, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ (I thank him) not only paying for +my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a letter to +_Newark_ upon _Trent_, twenty eight miles in my way, where Master +_George Atkinson_ mine host made me as welcome, as if I had been a +French Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid as +much; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir _Robert +Anstruther_. + +So leaving _Newark_, with another gentleman that overtook me, we came at +night to _Stamford_, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead) +where I delivered a letter from the Lord _Sanquhar_; which caused Master +_Bates_ and his wife, being the master and mistress of the house, to +make me and the gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing. + +From _Stamford_ the next day we rode to _Huntington_, where we lodged at +the Postmaster's house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is _Riggs_. +He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless +progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with us, and +very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar, and four +jugs of beer. He did drink and begin healths like a horse-leech and +swallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or +nine pound of sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank +post, striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or +to make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like +a jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible +shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for his +superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion. + +But leaving him, I left _Huntington_, and rode on the Sunday to +_Puckeridge_, where Master _Holland_ at the Falcon, (mine old +acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, my man, +and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, not a +penny of money. + +The next day I came to _London_, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I +went to a house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to +_Islington_, to the sign of the Maidenhead,[32] staying till Wednesday, +that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesday +was my first coming; where with all love I was entertained with much +good cheer: and after supper we had a play of the Life and Death of _Guy +of Warwick_,[33] played by the Right Honourable the Earl of _Derby_ his +men. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I +came home to my house in _London_. + + +[Decorative thought break] + + + + +THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS AND OTHERS. + + + Thus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask, + By any course, direct or indirectly: + But in each tittle I performed my task, + According to my bill most circumspectly. + I vow to God, I have done SCOTLAND wrong, + (And (justly) against me it may bring an action) + I have not given it that right which doth belong, + For which I am half guilty of detraction: + Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw, + Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter, + And so my name I should in question draw, + Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter: + Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen, + That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap, + In such abundant food for beasts and men; + That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap. + Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe; + And what I do believe, I know is true: + And what is true unto your hands I give, + That what I give, may be believed of you. + But as for him that says I lie or dote, + I do return, and turn the lie in's throat. + Thus gentlemen, amongst you take my ware, + You share my thanks, and I your moneys share. + + _Yours in all observance and gratefulness, + + ever to be commanded_, + + JOHN TAYLOR. + + +FINIS. + +[Decoration] + + +[Footnote 1: PROVANT.--Provender; provision.] + +[Footnote 2: FEGARY.--A vagary.] + +[Footnote 3: TRUNDLE.--_i.e._, John Trundle of the sign of _No-body_ +(see note page 6).] + +[Footnote 4: It is reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom +of "Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue--or, _No-body_ would have +taken the oath.] + +[Footnote 5: NAMED LEAN AND FEN.--Some jest is intended here on the +Host's name.--Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of A. FENNEL.] + +[Footnote 6: NO-BODY was the singular sign of John Trundle, a +ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who seems to +have accompanied our author as far as _Whetstone_ on his "Penniless +Pilgrimage"--and, certainly up to this point a very "wet" one!] In one +of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is introduced, "attyred in a payre of +Breeches, which were made to come up to his neck, with his armes out at +his pockets and cap drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for +John Trundle and are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of +No-Body." A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at +Britwell House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a +woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a torn +money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken pots, pans, +bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. Above him is a scroll +in black-letter:-- + +"Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame." + +The ballad commences as follows:-- + + "Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe, + So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe; + But nowe, beholde, here I am, + Whom all the worlde doeth diffame; + Long have they also scorned me, + And locked my mouthe for speking free. + As many a Godly man they have so served + Which unto them God's truth hath shewed; + Of such they have burned and hanged some. + That unto their ydolatrye wold not come: + The Ladye Truthe they have locked in cage, + Saying of her Nobodye had knowledge. + For as much nowe as they name Nobodye + I thinke verilye they speke of me: + Whereffore to answere I nowe beginne-- + The locke of my mouthe is opened with ginne, + Wrought by no man, but by God's grace, + Unto whom be prayse in every place," &c. + +Larwood and Hotten's _History of Signboards_.] + +[Footnote 7: PULSE.--All sorts of leguminous seeds.] + +[Footnote 8: See Dedication to _The Scourge of Baseness_.] + +[Footnote 9: MASTER DOCTOR HOLLAND.--The once well-known Philemon +Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age," published +translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History," 1601; Camden's +"Britannica," &c. He is said to have used in translation more paper and +fewer pens than any other writer before or since, and who "would not let +Suetonius be Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.] + +[Footnote 10: EDMUND BRANTHWAITE.--Robert Branthwaite, William +Branthwaite _Cant._, and "Thy assured friend" R. B., have each written +Commendatory Verses to ALL THE WORKS OF JOHN TAYLOR. London 1630. And +Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets," has the +following:--"One might have hoped in these parts for a happy meeting +between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal memory; indeed it is +likely that the Water-Poet and the Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and +that the latter may have introduced him to his connections hereabout, +Branthwaite being the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother +having married a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."] + +[Footnote 11: PIERCE PENNILESS, by Thomas Nash. London, 1592.] + +[Footnote 12: This "ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is +historically known as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."] + +[Footnote 13: RECEITE.--A receptacle.] + +[Footnote 14: VAUSTITY.--Emptiness.] + +[Footnote 15: _See_ Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb. +1618.] + +[Footnote 16: CORYATIZING.--Thomas Coryate, an English traveller, who +called himself the "Odcombian leg-stretcher." He was the son of the +rector of Odcombe, and in 1611 published an account of his travels on +the Continent with the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily +gobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia, +commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some +parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the +hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed to +the nourishment of the travelling members of this Kingdome, &c. London, +printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611." Taylor had an especial grudge +against Coryat, for having had influence enough to procure his "Laugh +and be Fat"--directed against the traveller--to be burned; and that he +never failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many +pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities," even after +his death.] + +[Footnote 17: TOPHET.--The Hebrew name for _Hell_.] + +[Footnote 18: CIMMERIAN.--Pertaining to the Cimmerii, or their country; +extremely and perpetually dark. The Cimmerii were an ancient people of +the land now called the Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy +fogs, was fabled to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient +poets also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near Lake +Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to visit.] + +[Footnote 19: PERTH.] + +[Footnote 20: BRAEMAR.] + +[Footnote 21: VIRGINAL JACK.--A keyed instrument resembling a spinet.] + +[Footnote 22: RED-SHANKS.--A contemptuous appellation for Scottish Highland +clansmen and native Irish, with reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and +"As lively as a _Red-Shank_" is still a proverbial saying:--"And we came into +Ireland, where they would have landed in the north parts. But I would +not, because there the inhabitants were all _Red-shanks_."--_Sir Walter +Raleigh's_ Speech on the Scaffold.] + +[Footnote 23: PUT ME INTO THAT SHAPE.--That is, invested him in Highland +attire.] + +[Footnote 24: "Probably the district around the skirts of Ben +Muicdui."--_Chambers'_ Domestic Annals of Scotland.] + +[Footnote 25: BALLOCH CASTLE.--Now called Castle-Grant.] + +[Footnote 26: MORAY.] + +[Footnote 27: MORAYLAND.] + +[Footnote 28: SUGAR-CANDIAN.--_i.e._, Sugar-candy.] + +[Footnote 29: A PIECE OF GOLD OF TWO-AND-TWENTY SHILLINGS.--"This was a +considerable present; but Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his +acquaintance. All his pleasures were social; and while health and +fortune smiled upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents +to those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's +concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to Drummond +is considered:--but there is one _evil that walks_, which keener eyes +than John's have often failed to discover.--I have only to add, in +justice to this honest man (Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the +subject of it. He paid the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's +memory:--the verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better +to give."--Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's Ben +Jonson's Works, p. xli. + +"In the summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben +Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives for a +journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be curiosity regarding +a country from which he knew that his family was derived, his +grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of Annandale. He had many +friends too, particularly among the connections of the Lennox family, +whom he might be glad to see at their own houses. Among those with whom +he had amicable intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the +prime of life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of +Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is probable that +Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and indulged together in +the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar scenes. Indeed, there is a +prevalent belief in Scotland that it was mainly to see Drummond at +Hawthornden that Jonson came so far from home, and certain it is, from +Drummond's report of his '_Conversations_,' that he designed 'to write a +Fisher or Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play--and make the stage of it on the +Lomond Lake--he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot Pilgrimage +to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in one who found so +much to admire where so little had been known, he spoke of entitling 'A +DISCOVERY.' Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he +called Edinburgh-- + + 'The Heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye,' + +has not been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work +contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's +letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be regretted that +we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by so vigorous a pen as +that of the author of _Sejanual_"--_Chambers'_ Domestic +Annals of Scotland, vol. 1. + +Whether Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and +prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would now be +difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks in his +Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c.," he had been accused by +the critics that he "_did undergo this project, either in malice, or +mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson_." It is quite certain that Taylor +lost no time in getting his "Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the +author" immediately on his return to London on the fifteenth of October +1618.] + +[Footnote 30: ROUSE.--A full glass, a bumper.] + +[Footnote 31: UNFELLOWED.--_i.e._, not matched.] + +[Footnote 32: TO ISLINGTON TO THE SIGN OF THE MAINDENHEAD.--This then +roadside Public-house, we are informed from recent enquiries, was +situate at the corner of Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's +Cross, from a statue of George IV.--a most execrable performance taken +down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named the +Victoria, while Maiden Lane--an ancient way leading from Battle Bridge +to Highgate Hill--is known now as York Road.] + +[Footnote 33: GUY OF WARWICK.--There are several versions and editions of +this work. In the book of the Stationers' Company, John Trundle--he at +the sign of NO-BODY--on the 15th of January, 1619, entered "a play, +called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of Warwick, written by John Day +and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.--"Well, +if he read this with patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master +Trundle yonder, the rest of my mortality."--_Ben Jonson's_ Every Man in +his Humour, act i. sc. 2.] + + +Corrections Made by Transcriber + + Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his." + Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten." + Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes." + Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be." + Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE *** + +***** This file should be named 28108-8.txt or 28108-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/8/1/0/28108/ + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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