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|
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
<title>The South of France—East Half (The Alps and Index)</title>
<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
</head>
<body>
<div class = "mynote">
<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
popups</ins>.</p>
<p class = "center">
<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a>
(<i>separate file</i>)<br>
<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate
file</i>)<br>
<a href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate file</i>)<br>
<br>
Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_contents">Itineraries</a><br>
Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_maps">Maps</a><br>
Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#paris_to_turin">Text</a><br>
<br>
<a href = "#index">General Index</a></p>
</div>
<div class = "toc">
<h4><a name = "part3_contents" id = "part3_contents">ITINERARY</a><br>
<span class = "smaller">(pages 281–end)</span></h4>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_turin"><b>PARIS to TURIN</b></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"><span class =
"smallcaps">Aix-les-Bains to Geneva</span></a> by Annecy
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page286">286</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#modane_to_turin"><b>Modane to Turin</b></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bussoleno to <a href =
"#susa">Susa</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Turin to <a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Pellice</a></b> by
Pinerolo
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page305">305</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><span class =
"smallcaps">Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la
Croix
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page306">306</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa
to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col d’Abriés
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#perosa_to_cesanne"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to
Cesanne</span></a> by the Col de Sestrières
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><span class =
"smallcaps">Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la
Traversette
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page308">308</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class = "smallcaps">Cuneo
to Barcelonnette</span></a> (<i>see</i> <span class =
"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#turin_to_florence"><b>TURIN to FLORENCE</b></a> by
Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page309">309</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"><span class = "smallcaps">St.
Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur</span></a> by the Little Saint Bernard
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page320">320</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane_lyons"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a> by
Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the
Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group
of the Ecrin mountains
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page322">322</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble</a> to
<a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page327">327</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble to Briançon</b></a> by
Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page328">328</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg
d’Oisans</a> to <a href = "#la_berarde">La Berarde</a></span>, at the
base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page329">329</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"><span class =
"smallcaps">Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux</span></a> by La Bessée and the Val
Louise
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a>,
<a href = "#page345">345</a></span></p>
<p><a href = "#briancon_to_oulx"><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to
Oulx</span></a> by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_corps"><b>Grenoble to Corps</b></a> by La
Mure (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>).
From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (<a href =
"#page340">p. 340</a>). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to
N. D. de la Salette
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin</a> to
Allevard-les-Bains</span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page336">336</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#marseilles_to_grenoble"><b>MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE</b></a>
by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles
and Claix (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map,
p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page338">338</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban</a> to
Digne</span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><span class =
"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by La Javie and Seyne (<a
href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><span class =
"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by Draix, Colmars and
Allos
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
</p>
<p><b><a href = "#veynes">VEYNES</a> to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE</b>
station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French
end of several of the important passes between France and Italy
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page340">340</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#gap_to_barcelonnette"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to
Barcelonnette</span></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class =
"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span></a> (<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#gap_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to
Grenoble</span></a> by Corps (<a href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page342">342</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><span class =
"smallcaps">Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo</span></a> (<a href = "#map304">map,
p. 304</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page344">344</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne"><span class =
"smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span></a> by Saint Etienne (<a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page346">346</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_tarare"><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to
Lyons</span></a> by Tarare (<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page348">348</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#lyons_to_clermont"><span class = "smallcaps">Lyons to
Clermont-Ferrand</span></a> by Montbrison (<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page349">349</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"><span class =
"smallcaps">Paris to Marseilles</span></a> by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes
(see <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page351">351</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the
Baths of <a href =
"#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault</a></span> by Souvigny and
Saint Menoux (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
p. 1</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page356">356</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the
Baths of <a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy</a></span> by
Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (<a class = "paris"
href = "paris.html#page27">p. 27</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map1">map p. 1</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page357">357</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St.
Germain-des-Fossés</a> to <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page359">359</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#clermont_to_brive"><span class =
"smallcaps">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</span></a> by Laqueuille
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page376">376</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille</a> to
the Baths of <a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore and Bourboule</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page377">377</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#mont_dore_to_issoire"><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dore
to Issoire</span></a> by the Baths of St. Nectaire
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page385">385</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.</p>
</div> <!-- end div toc -->
<div class = "toc">
<h4><a name = "part3_maps" id = "part3_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br>
<span class = "smaller">(pages 281–end)</span></h4>
<p>
<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
<p><b>Bologna</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map316">316</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Mont Cenis railway</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map291"><ins class = "correction" title
= "text reads ‘191’">291</ins></a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane
and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to
Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.</p>
<p><b>Mont-Dore</b> and <b>Bourboule</b>, Map of environs
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map378">378</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>The French and Italian Waldensian valleys</b>, with the
mountain-passes between them
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map304">304</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Turin</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map293">293</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Vichy</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map359">359</a></span>
</p>
</div> <!-- end div toc -->
<div class = "itinerary">
<span class = "pagenum">281</span>
<a name = "page281" id = "page281"> </a>
<!-- png 335 -->
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_turin" id =
"paris_to_turin">
Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.</a></h4>
<h5 class = "long">
By <span class = "smallcaps">Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Bourg,
Ambérieux, Culoz, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, Modane</span>, and <span
class = "smallcaps">Mont Cenis</span>. The continuation of this line
southwards from Turin extends <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa by Alessandria</a> (page
279).</h5>
<p class = "smaller">
<b>Part First.</b>—<span class = "smallcaps">Paris to
Modane</span>, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. <b>Part
Second.</b>—<span class = "smallcaps">Modane to Turin</span>, 58½
miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.</p>
<p class = "smaller">
<i>Time-tables.</i>—In England, see under “London to Turin” in the
Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which
Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the
Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their
Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and
Chambery. For the whole route consult the <a href =
"main.html#map_flyleaf">Sketch Map on the fly-leaf</a>. For the
northern part, between Paris and Macon, see <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map1">map, page 1</a>; and from Macon to Turin, <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, page 26</a>.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane" id =
"paris_to_modane">
<b>PART I.</b>—PARIS TO MODANE.</a></h5>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles to">431</span>
<b>PARIS.</b> In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de
Lyon Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café
Restaurant. A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good
restaurant also in the station. For the first 274 m. between Paris
and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates
from this one. At <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#montereau">Montereau</a>, 49½ m. from Paris
(p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At <a class
= "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche</a> (p. 14) both
the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre</a> (p. 17) they halt again 5 min.
At <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>
(p. 19) the Express halts 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#dijon">Dijon</a> (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#macon">Macon</a> (p. 26) they halt 5
min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Marseilles line, and
goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the
church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line
traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. (See
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>; and
for description, Black’s <i>France</i>, North half<ins class =
"correction" title = ") missing">.)</ins> 5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the
line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives
at <a name = "amberieu" id = "amberieu"><b>Ambérieu</b></a>,
316¼ m. S.E. from Paris, and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At
Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Ambérieu,
pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura
mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32½ m. west. From
Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. through a mountainous
country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron
near its junction with the Rhône. Between Ambérieu and Culoz the rail
passes through the last ramifications of the Jura
<span class = "pagenum">282</span>
<a name = "page282" id = "page282"> </a>
<!-- png 336 -->
mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.
Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.
The view is admirable—on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes
of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends
to Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lagnieu. Virieu le Grand. Culoz.</span></p>
<p>8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is <a name =
"lagnieu" id = "lagnieu"><b>Lagnieu</b></a>, pop. 3500, station for
<a name = "la_balme" id = "la_balme"><b>La Balme</b></a>, pop. 1000,
3 m. S.W., on south side of Rhône. There is a cave here with great
galleries and stalactites, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and
13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons
steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the
entrance into the grotto.</p>
<p>From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which,
after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild
and imposing. At Tenay, <i>Inn:</i> Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the
train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to</p>
<p><a name = "virieu_le_grand" id = "virieu_le_grand"><b>Virieu le
Grand</b></a>, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with
loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; <i>Inns:</i> Rey; Camus,
with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris
and 19¼ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of
Cerveyrieu.</p>
<p>347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N.
from Modane, is <a name = "culoz" id = "culoz"><b>Culoz</b></a>, on the
Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop.
1200. Near the station are the inns *H. Folliet; H. Mémon.
A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41 m. N.E.
is Geneva; see Black’s <i>North France</i>, and <a class = "paris" href
= "paris.html#map27">map p. 26</a>. 4½ m. S. from Culoz and
10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. above the sea, on
the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by row-boat from Aix.
In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view of the lake, Pope
Celestin was born.</p>
<p>Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to
3 m. wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by
the steep ridge of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the
<a name = "mont_chat" id = "mont_chat">Col du Mont Chat</a>, 2070 ft., and
immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302
ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., after
a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the lake
and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the summits
of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain of Aix
(see <a href = "#aix_bains_other">page 285</a>). It is ascended from the
village of Mouxy in about 4 hrs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The
lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad,
carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">283</span>
<a name = "page283" id = "page283"> </a>
<!-- png 337 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aix-les-Bains. Hotels.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">362</span>
<span class = "miles to">69</span>
<a name = "aix_les_bains" id = "aix_les_bains"><b>AIX-LES-BAINS</b></a>,
850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The
Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending to the
railway station. First-class hotels—their pension is from 12 to 20
frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On
each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the
Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then
follow the <a name = "aix_bains_hotels" id =
"aix_bains_hotels"><i>Hotels</i></a>: *Europe; *Venat, with large
garden; and opposite, at the end of R. du Casino, the H. Genève.
Second-class houses: in the parallel street, the R. Genève, behind
the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand; *Gaillard; in the Place
Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is the office
whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons steamboats, and
for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. de
l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in
the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain.
A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last,
the H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above
second-class houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the
H. des Bergues.</p>
<p>On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel,
a really splendid first-class house. Below it is the
H. Beau-Site, also a new but a smaller first-class house.</p>
<p>The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the
left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”</p>
<p>Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple,
behind the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aix-les-Bains: Cabs.</span></p>
<p><a name = "aix_bains_cabs" id = "aix_bains_cabs"><i>Cabs or
Fiacres.</i></a>—One-horse cab—3 frs. for the first hour;
every succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse
cab—for first hour, 4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.;
per day, 20 frs. Riding horses—two hours, 4 frs.
Donkeys—one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs.</p>
<p>The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted
up for the external application of the water, very little being drunk.
Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind
the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½
fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°,
114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime,
magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath
with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent.,
with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the
arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de
Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome
<span class = "pagenum">284</span>
<a name = "page284" id = "page284"> </a>
<!-- png 338 -->
stone stair of fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round
columns, leads up to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On
the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens
into what is called the Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall
of coarse masonry, recently restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc
Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish church, and the park. The waters used for
drinking are the cold sulphur springs, situated a little way out of
town.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "aix_bains_springs" id =
"aix_bains_springs">
<span class = "headnote">Aix-les-Bains: Springs.
Excursions.</span></a></p>
<p>The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at <a name = "challes"
id = "challes"><b>Challes</b></a>, 900 ft. above the sea, and 45 min.
distant by omnibus from Chambery. <i>Hotels:</i> Château de Challes;
Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for indigestion and liver
complaints, but especially for laryngeal affections.</p>
<p>Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral
water establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all
within a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with
bromine and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from
the town by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy
spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric
diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.</p>
<p><a name = "aix_bains_excursions" id =
"aix_bains_excursions"><b>Excursions from
Aix-les-Bains.</b></a>—The steamer on certain days makes the tour
of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief is the
Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two men,
9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.;
Châtillon, 14 frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry
more than six passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the
lake—one horse, 11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.</p>
<p>The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft.
long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The
interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white
fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near
Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of
Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on
the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of
Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the
right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in
the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.</p>
<p>About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of
the lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To
reach it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and
horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The
<span class = "pagenum">285</span>
<a name = "page285" id = "page285"> </a>
<!-- png 339 -->
fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the
village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which
rises the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Mont Chat</a> (see
p. 282).</p>
<p><a name = "aix_bains_other" id = "aix_bains_other"><i>Other
Excursions.</i></a>—To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109
ft., good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E.
the Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The
Rocher de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5
hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by
mule-path; there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45
minutes, 3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the
defile of the Combes and the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de
Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Grotto of Banges. Le Châtelard.</span></p>
<p><a name = "banges" id = "banges"><b>Aix to the Grotto of
Banges</b></a>, <i>by Gresy and Cusy.</i>— Seat in car there and
back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty
waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to
an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on
a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On
the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of
St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular
obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de
Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in
between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de
Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance,
approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.</p>
<p>This road may be continued to <a name = "le_chatelard" id =
"le_chatelard"><b>Le Châtelard</b></a>, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500
ft. above the sea; <i>Inns:</i> Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This
is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m.
long and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and
surrounded by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the
manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants,
of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical
position, resembles <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le
Beage</a> (p. 84).</p>
<p>The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which
separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the
Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W.,
and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de
Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.</p>
<p>At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N.,
whence a diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by
Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>).</p>
<span class = "pagenum">286</span>
<a name = "page286" id = "page286"> </a>
<!-- png 340 -->
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "aix_les_bains_to_geneva" id =
"aix_les_bains_to_geneva">
Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is
<a name = "lovagny" id = "lovagny"><b>Lovagny</b></a>, the station to
alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about
10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a
bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and
tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same
nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery,
or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an average 72 ft. above the
torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical
cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. apart.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3½ m. farther by rail is</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "annecy" id = "annecy"><b>Annecy</b></a>, pop. 11,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head
of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the
steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the
Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily.
Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages of
Plot and La Roche; also to <a href = "#albertville">Albertville</a>,
28 m. N., on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page
320).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the
north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in
Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of
Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the
Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is
another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both
modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected
by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend,
inhabited adjoins this chapel.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar
in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale.
The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at
the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de
Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the
Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace,
with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the
Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by
Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at
Talloires in 1748.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the
sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which
the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. above the
lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a
comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east
from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of
his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small
square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his
<span class = "pagenum">287</span>
<a name = "page287" id = "page287"> </a>
<!-- png 341 -->
last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and
died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a
little farther south, above the village of Veyrier.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "leschaux" id = "leschaux">
<span class = "headnote">Leschaux. Cruseilles</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the
birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the
hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the
right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south
extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into
the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for
Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this
neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148
ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of
Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from Annecy, and
14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village.
The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt,
at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake.
(See map of Mt. Cenis, <a href = "#map291">p. 291</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny,
where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became
successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles,
and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille,
18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge,
212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the
torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
16½ m. from Geneva is <a name = "cruseilles" id =
"cruseilles"><b>Cruseilles</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the
sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586
ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535
ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Chambery.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">370¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">60¼</span>
<a name = "chambery" id = "chambery"><b>CHAMBERY</b></a>, pop. 20,000,
and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving late should spend the
night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to Turin.
<i>Hotels.</i>—Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain.
France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe,
near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it
is the Temple Protestant.</p>
<p><b>Chambery</b> is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains.
The first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station
is the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du
Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de
Boigne. It consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned
with a statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de
Boigne is the <b>Château</b>, formerly the residence of the Dukes of
Savoy, built in 1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by
the road round from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens.
Within the precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having
<span class = "pagenum">288</span>
<a name = "page288" id = "page288"> </a>
<!-- png 342 -->
attached to it one of the old massive round towers, ascended by a most
handsome staircase of 160 low broad steps to within a short distance of
the top, attained by 36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is
the entrance to the Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History
Museum is in the Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is
very pleasing, and overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite
the tower is the Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The
three tall windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is
covered with stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting
between the nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted,
but on a blue ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was
built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Chambery: Church of Lemenc. J. J. Rousseau.</span></p>
<p>The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de
Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais
de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a
bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on
the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la
Visitation and the <a name = "chambery_church_lemenc" id =
"chambery_church_lemenc"><b>Church of Lemenc</b></a>. The upper church
of Lemenc is of the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is
of the 7th cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six
feet in diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the
upper Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint
Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago.
His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.
In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of
Madame de Warrens.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "chambery_rousseau" id =
"chambery_rousseau"><b>Excursions.</b></a>—The house which Jean
Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395
ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with
walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on
entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch,
opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each
other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room
was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room
above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s.
From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft.,
ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View
not equal to that from the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Chat</a>
(p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the
Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria
may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold
sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of <a href = "#challes">Challes</a>
(p. 284).</p>
<span class = "pagenum">289</span>
<a name = "page289" id = "page289"> </a>
<!-- png 343 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">376</span>
<span class = "miles to">55</span>
<a name = "les_marches_1" id = "les_marches_1"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a
straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image
of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the
Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial
landslip of Mt. Granier.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">378</span>
<span class = "miles to">53</span>
<a name = "montmelian_stn" id = "montmelian_stn"><b>MONTMÉLIAN</b></a>,
pop. 1200. <i>Inn:</i> Voyageurs. Junction with line to Grenoble, for
which change carriages (<a href =
"#marseilles_to_grenoble">p. 338</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Pierre d’Albigny. Aiguebelle.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">358¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">45¾</span>
<a name = "st_pierre_dalbigny" id = "st_pierre_dalbigny"><b>ST. PIERRE
D’ALBIGNY</b></a>, 971 ft. (<a href = "#map291">map, p. 291</a>),
pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its station. <i>Inns:</i> At station:
H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with
line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy,
28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges;
<i>Inn:</i> Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on
the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine
passes (see <a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">p. 321</a>). From St.
Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the
immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many
places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford
protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards,
orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from
these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel,
2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3 m. of La
Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in
terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and
arid.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">332</span>
<span class = "miles to">39</span>
<a name = "aiguebelle" id = "aiguebelle"><b>AIGUEBELLE</b></a>, pop.
1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles
Felix. The valley now begins to widen.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">409</span>
<span class = "miles to">22</span>
<a name = "la_chambre" id = "la_chambre"><b>LA CHAMBRE</b></a>, pop.
800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the
right, is the valley of the Glandon.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">414½</span>
<span class = "miles to">16½</span>
<a name = "st_jean_de_maurienne" id =
"st_jean_de_maurienne"><b>SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE</b></a>, pop. 3200.
<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in
the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some
beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster,
and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous
mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">421</span>
<span class = "miles to">10</span>
<a name = "st_michel" id = "st_michel"><b>ST. MICHEL</b></a>, pop. 3000.
A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the
foot of high mountains. <i>Inn:</i> Poste, near the post office. From
St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz,
6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">290</span>
<a name = "page290" id = "page290"> </a>
<!-- png 344 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Modane.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">431</span>
<a name = "modane" id = "modane"><b>MODANE STATION</b></a>, 3445 ft.
above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is really part of the
village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train
passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at
station. Opposite station—<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel International, where
comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the
neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are
also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined
here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery
on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller
ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no
part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is
reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½
per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and
5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than
Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a
little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lans-le-Bourg. Les Tavernettes.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_susa" id =
"modane_to_susa">
Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Modane a carriage-road leads over the <a name = "mont_cenis" id =
"mont_cenis"><b>Pass of Mont Cenis</b></a> to Susa, 40 m. distant
by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is
Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this
are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a
steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road
crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the
Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea,
at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a
curious belfry; 18 m. <a name = "lans_le_bourg" id =
"lans_le_bourg"><b>Lans-le-Bourg</b></a>, pop. 1500, consisting
principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the
base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is
commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge.
At the culminating point, 6882 ft. above the sea, is the inn Ramasse.
The road now descends. 13 m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is
<a name = "les_tavernettes" id = "les_tavernettes"><b>Les
Tavernettes</b></a>, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is
1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one
of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. from
Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the
great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069
ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more
rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about
3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid
views and rich vegetation (<a href = "#susa">Susa</a>, see page
291).</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "caption">
<span class = "smallcaps">MONT CENIS RAILWAY<br>
St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.<br>
modane to susa by langlebourg</span></p>
<!-- png 345 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 291</span>
<a name = "map291" id = "map291" href = "images/map291.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map291thumb.png" width = "491" height = "374"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
</div>
<span class = "pagenum">291</span>
<a name = "page291" id = "page291"> </a>
<!-- png 346 -->
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_turin" id =
"modane_to_turin">
<b>PART II.</b>—MODANE TO TURIN.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
See <a href = "#map291">Map of Mont Cenis Railway</a>.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "miles to">58½</span>
<b>MODANE.</b> At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta
Italia Railway Company.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best
time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate,”
1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway
stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or Latrine, or
Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei
fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. Way out,
Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "miles from">5</span>
<span class = "miles to">53½</span>
<a name = "bardonnecchia" id = "bardonnecchia"><b>BARDONNECCHIA</b></a>,
4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in
the town the Hôtel de France.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile
country than that above Modane.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "miles from">12</span>
<span class = "miles to">46½</span>
<a name = "oulx" id = "oulx"><b>OULX</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft.
high. <i>Inn:</i> Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the station.
<span class = "sidetrip">
At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by
Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte
Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius,
who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the
beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, <i>Hist. Nat.</i>, lib. iii. cap.
20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road
from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now <a href
= "#embrun">Embrun</a>, on the Durance (see page 343).</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "miles from">21¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">36¾</span>
<a name = "chiomonte" id = "chiomonte"><b>CHIOMONTE</b></a>, 2526 ft.
Beyond are some charming views.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "miles from">25½</span>
<span class = "miles to">33</span>
<a name = "meana" id = "meana"><b>MEANA</b></a>, 1 m. from Susa, and 325
ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods,
crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane,
whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to <a name = "susa" id =
"susa"><b>Susa</b></a>, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. <i>Hotels:</i> France;
Soleil.
<span class = "sidetrip">
This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who
inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.
above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch
erected about 8 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> in honour of
Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes
on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral,
San Giusto, dates from the llth cent.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the
foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the
plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa,
founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially
repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government
intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path
leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of
S. Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.</p>
<!-- png 348 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 293</span>
<a name = "map293" id = "map293" href = "images/map293.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map293thumb.png" width = "453" height = "382"
alt = "plan of Turin" title = "TURIN"></a>
</p>
<span class = "pagenum">292</span>
<a name = "page292" id = "page292"> </a>
<!-- png 347 -->
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "turin" id = "turin">
TURIN,</a></h5>
<p>pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea,
and 490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the
tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the
Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city,
that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen
speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of
reserve of Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the
Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite
residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of
S. Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in
1498. Francis I. so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire
reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well
paved, and pass through spacious squares ornamented with statues and
bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the
western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets
ramifying southwards from this.</p>
<p><a name = "turin_hotels" id =
"turin_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello.
In the same square, and less expensive, is the H. di Londra. This
piazza is in the neighbourhood of the principal sights, and is the
terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are:
the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14
Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is
at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois
church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8
Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre;
and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme
(Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse;
H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et
Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po;
Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana
Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via
Lagrange.</p>
<p><a name = "turin_cabs" id = "turin_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>—One
horse, from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> till midnight, the
course, 1 fr. First half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each
successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span>, 1¼ fr. From the central station to any part of
the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr.
additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a
cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway
carriage, 1 sou.</p>
<p>Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams
<span class = "pagenum">293</span>
<a name = "page293" id = "page293"> </a>
<!-- png 349 -->
run from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond
the suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of
the steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams
no more than four may occupy one seat.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Stations.</span></p>
<p><a name = "turin_stations" id =
"turin_stations"><i>Stations.</i></a>—The most important is the
<b>Central Station</b>, a well-situated and well-arranged and
spacious edifice. On a tablet on the departure side is an inscription to
the honour of George and Robert Stephenson. Parallel to the station is
the wide and handsome Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city
from east to west, having at the eastern end the Po and the Giardino
Pubblico, and at the western the model prison, the Carcere giudiziario,
the artillery barracks, and the cattle-market. In front of the station
is a bronze statue of Massimo d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who
died in 1866, one of those who helped to throw off the yoke of Rome.
Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza Carlo Felice, and the straight
street, the Via Roma, extending to the Piazza Castello, by the Piazza
S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze equestrian statue,
modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy,
and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in 1580. The attitude is
rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the west end of the Piazza
dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello by the Via
Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of plan, at
the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza dello
Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in the
shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn
granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white
marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter
make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni,
and Grandi.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Post Office. Booksellers.</span></p>
<p><a name = "turin_post" id = "turin_post"><i>Post and telegraph
offices</i></a> are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the side of the
<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano</a> (p. 297).
Stamps are sold at all the tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the
P. Castello, and connected with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade,
covered with glass, and bordered on both sides with well-stocked
shops.</p>
<p><a name = "turin_booksellers" id =
"turin_booksellers"><i>Booksellers.</i></a>—For maps of Italy,
Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both
in the Via di Po.</p>
<p>Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal
streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in
all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The
same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.</p>
<p><a name = "turin_theatres" id =
"turin_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>—See list on plan. A short
way east from the central
<span class = "pagenum">294</span>
<a name = "page294" id = "page294"> </a>
<!-- png 350 -->
station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in
1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio
Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue,
a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like
cupolas.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Sights.</span></p>
<p><a name = "turin_sights" id =
"turin_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>—The museums and picture gallery
(Pinacoteca) in the “Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the
Piazza Carignano and another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze.
Nearly opposite is the Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and
mineralogical collections. The white marble statue in front represents
the philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house
opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte
Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi
mori il 6 Giugno 1861.<ins class = "correction"
title = "close quote missing">” </ins>The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria
Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal
Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni.
A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All
the above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The
only one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side
street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram
from the Piazza Castello.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Palazzo dell’ Accademia. Museum of Antiquities.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_accademia" id =
"turin_pal_accademia">
The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.</a></h5>
<p>The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was
built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast
earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and
cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more
massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second
story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen
rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days
free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained
in two halls. <b>Hall 1.</b> Left. In the centre, against the wall,
under an inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the
gem of the collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris,
Rameses II., 1388 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> On his
right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of
Amenophis II., 1565 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, and on
his left a small black basalt statue of Amenophis II., the god
Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting posture, representing the
Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At the head of this hall is
the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II., in whose reign the
exodus of the Israelites took place. From
<span class = "pagenum">295</span>
<a name = "page295" id = "page295"> </a>
<!-- png 351 -->
this a room ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman
statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc.</p>
<p>Parallel to Hall 1 is <b>Hall 2</b>. At the head of this hall, in a
sitting posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 <span
class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, who was one of the most powerful of
the Pharaohs.</p>
<p>Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in
three large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall,
left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a
table covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654
<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A little farther down, in
the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula
Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. wide, inlaid
with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of Hadrian.
Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads to the
smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a colossal
bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily work the
oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found at
Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician terracotta
figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient iron
ornaments, lamps, etc.</p>
<p>The <b>Centre Hall</b> contains idols, jewellery, amulets,
sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by
the Israelites.</p>
<p>In the <b>Third Hall</b> are the Papyri, of which the most important
are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, <b>The Book
of the Dead</b>, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain
vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous
annals of <b>Manetho</b>, which contained a list of more than 300 kings
of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
<p>In the second story is the <a name = "turin_gallery" id =
"turin_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. All the paintings are
labelled. In <b>Room 1</b> are portraits of princes of the house of
Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. <b>Room 2.</b> In this
room are excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari,
No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54,
Descent from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. <b>Rooms 3</b>
and <b>4</b>. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin
painter, 90, a Landscape. <b>Room 5.</b> Italian paintings of the
14th, 15th, and 16th cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on
silk; Bronzino, 127 and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her
husband, Cosimo I. de Medici. <b>Room 6.</b> J. da Ponte (II
Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari (Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of
Sheba presenting
<span class = "pagenum">296</span>
<a name = "page296" id = "page296"> </a>
<!-- png 352 -->
gifts to Solomon; A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161,
Musician; J. Robusti (Il Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. <b>Room
7.</b> Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome.
<b>Room 8.</b> Enamels and paintings on porcelain by Constantin of
Geneva. <b>Room 9.</b> A small room entirely filled with fruit and
flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 and 10 is a dark lobby,
hung also with pictures. <b>Room 10.</b> Continuation of the Italian
school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232, Portrait of
Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary
Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids;
G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F.
Barbieri (Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next
room, Return of Prodigal Son. <b>Room 11.</b> A. Canale (Il
Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264,
271, and 274, The Four Elements; S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away;
275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna;
B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old Bridge across the
Po. <b>Room 12.</b> Flemish and German school: Acken (Bosch), 309, an
Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van des Weyden,
312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and Gentlemen; Van
Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of England; *The
Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of his apotheosis
of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. <b>Room 13.</b> Containing the
gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and
Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri
(Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven
Sorrows of the Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant
Church, the figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian
portrait of the Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384,
Holy Family; D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus
giving up the Ghost; Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello,
375, Virgin and child in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of
Lucretia; P. Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow;
H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. <b>Room 14.</b> Dutch and
German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in
Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection
of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; Teniers
(the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. <b>Room
15.</b> French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483,
Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge.
Catalogues sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">297</span>
<a name = "page297" id = "page297"> </a>
<!-- png 353 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Palazzo Carignano. Royal Armoury.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_carignano" id =
"turin_pal_carignano">
Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.</a></h5>
<p>Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is
the Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured
brick; but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing
than those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the
façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the
words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and
spacious court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting
the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by
Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built
in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also
<a href = "#turin_stations">p. 293</a>.) In this palace, magnificently
housed, are the zoological and mineralogical collections. Open daily,
1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_armoury" id = "turin_armoury">
Royal Armoury.</a></h5>
<p>No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free.
On other days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is
of great interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is
filled chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first
room is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo
Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in
battle. In the large hall are two rows of armed knights and
foot-soldiers. At the head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301,
is an embossed oval shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a
fringe of massive gold thread. On five medallions are represented, in
<i>alto-relievo</i>, scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It
belongs to the school of Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the
latter half of the 16th cent., and was presented to the university of
Turin by the Princess Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the
relics are the sword worn by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the
saddle of Charles V., and some beautifully inlaid body-armour of
the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at the end of this hall opens into
the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing 30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient
coins and medals, including a complete series of those struck in the
State of Sardinia; and also 5000 medallions, seals and stamps. In this
same part is the Biblioteca del Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS.,
numerous autographs, engravings and drawings by the great masters. To
visit these special permission must be obtained. From the windows of the
armoury is a view of the palace-gardens.
<span class = "pagenum">298</span>
<a name = "page298" id = "page298"> </a>
<!-- png 354 -->
At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro Regio, considered
the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for 2500, and is open
only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "turin_royal_palace" id =
"turin_royal_palace">
Turin: Royal Palace.</a></span>
In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a
plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza
Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance,
turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass
door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a
niche at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the
horse in marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two
flights of narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the
servants will be found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party,
2 frs. After the guardroom succeeds a series of rooms with much
gilding, inlaid floors, and rich furniture. The pictures are all modern,
and of no great merit. The room called Maria Theresa’s contains some
fine china vases.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: The Cathedral.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_cathedral" id =
"turin_cathedral">
The Cathedral.</a></h5>
<p>Adjoining the western end of the palace is the <b>Cathedral San
Giovanni Battista</b>. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal
family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps
each, is the <b>Cappella del Sudario</b> (open till 9 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span>), a circular chapel, separated from the
church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in 1694, and is
encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi,
which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the statues and
the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and eight-limbed
stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns of the same
dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six arches
ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six smaller
arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is composed of
an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising from the
second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light in such
a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the appearance of
being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold and silver
lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it at the same
time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud (Sudario)
in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when he laid
Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble
monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy—Em. Filiberto (ob.
1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli;
and Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob.
<span class = "pagenum">299</span>
<a name = "page299" id = "page299"> </a>
<!-- png 355 -->
1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by
Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the lovely statue of Queen Maria
Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door
behind the altar communicates with the upper corridors of the palace.
Outside the palace gates is <a name = "turin_san_lorenzo" id =
"turin_san_lorenzo"><b>San Lorenzo</b></a>, designed by Guarini, and
finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but it is chiefly
distinguished for the boldness of its arches.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: The Castello. Museo Civico.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_castello" id =
"turin_castello">
The Castello.</a></h5>
<p>The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was
erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it
became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II.,
Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of
whom it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat
of government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the
great hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory,
and another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who
here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_museo_civico" id =
"turin_museo_civico">
Museo Civico.</a></h5>
<p>Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3,
1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS.
of celebrated Piedmontese. <b>2.</b> Water-colours, representing
landscapes and historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a
solid oblong chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater
diameter, and 2 ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long
ends is a lion’s head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also
under a glass frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra,
a vase, and two flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The
first was presented in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by
that of the United States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of
the Geneva arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this
institution by his widow. None of them display much art; as for the
English vase, it needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable
soup-tureen.</p>
<p>The rooms from <b>4</b> to <b>11</b> contain modern oil-paintings,
some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble
statues; among the best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and
the Crucifixion of Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second
story.—Room <b>12</b>, Embroidery; <b>13</b>, Miniatures and
illustrated MSS.; <b>14</b>, Iron work; <b>15</b>, Carving in wood and
ivory—notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; <b>16</b>, Glass and
<span class = "pagenum">300</span>
<a name = "page300" id = "page300"> </a>
<!-- png 356 -->
majolica; <b>17</b>, Italian porcelain; <b>18</b>, Busts; <b>19</b>,
Small oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *<b>20</b>, Italian painted
glass from 1300; <b>21</b>, Egyptian pottery; <b>22</b>, Pottery and
stone age.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Via di Po. University. Madre di Dio.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_via_po" id = "turin_via_po">
The Via di Po.</a></h5>
<p>The finest of the streets is the <b>Via di Po</b>, which extends from
the Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares,
as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and
lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in
all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the
pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both
sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the
<a name = "turin_university" id = "turin_university"><b>University</b></a>,
built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by the
Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and directed
by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains
200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman bas-reliefs,
inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the Via di Po and
the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina,
containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open
daily. Apply to the custodi.</p>
<p>The <a name = "turin_piazza_vitt_em" id =
"turin_piazza_vitt_em"><b>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</b></a> is 394 yards
long and 121½ wide. In front, on the other side of the Po, is a
conspicuous church, the Gran <a name = "turin_madre_di_dio" id =
"turin_madre_di_dio"><b>Madre di Dio</b></a>, built in 1818, in the
style of the Pantheon at Rome, by Bansignori, to commemorate the return
of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin after the fall of Napoleon.
A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) is a Capuchin convent,
built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road up is very easy, and
the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately above the Madre di Dio
church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of
Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by one of the queens of
Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s
Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education of children
of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the
Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four
pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor
Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a
government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of
minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces,
are topographically arranged. The <b>Botanical Garden</b> belonging to
the university is also here.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">301</span>
<a name = "page301" id = "page301"> </a>
<!-- png 357 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: Monument to Cavour.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_monuments" id =
"turin_monuments">
Monuments.</a></h5>
<p>In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza
Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for
which he received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of
Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes
in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.
Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the
words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See <a href =
"#page294">p. 294</a>.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for
bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S. Carlo,
with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see <a href =
"#page293">p. 293</a>). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is
the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di
Savoia (brother of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in
1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell,
mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth
and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of
suffering.</p>
<p>A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta
is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di
Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected
in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the
celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor
Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and
Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group
representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close
to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior
encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and
gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em.
Filiberto, passing by on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the
Basilica. In S. Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the
altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: La Consolata. Cemetery.</span></p>
<p>Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church
<a name = "turin_la_consolata" id = "turin_la_consolata"><b>La
Consolata</b></a>, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three
churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a
miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining
walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances
effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious
Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria
Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.
Emanuele,
<span class = "pagenum">302</span>
<a name = "page302" id = "page302"> </a>
<!-- png 358 -->
dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship
every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square
outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in
fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.</p>
<p>In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72
ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the
ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns
which contributed to the monument.</p>
<p>Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the <a name =
"turin_cemetery" id = "turin_cemetery">cemetery</a> or Campo Santo of
Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth
visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.</p>
<p>A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the
citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the
monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang
a mine at the cost of his own life.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Turin: La Superga.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_la_superga" id =
"turin_la_superga">
La Superga.</a></h5>
<p>Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the
time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half
an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number,
the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram
runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by
the western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends
by the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent
commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and
opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards,
the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga
station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious
restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand,
for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is
probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the
main road to Turin.</p>
<p>The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.
above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was
commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to
fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the
French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the
duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.</p>
<p>Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will
be
<span class = "pagenum">303</span>
<a name = "page303" id = "page303"> </a>
<!-- png 359 -->
found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first
hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.
Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white
marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are
worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo
Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III.,
1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal
white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder,
1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried.</p>
<p>From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery
outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the
gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is
well seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the
church.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "turin_views" id = "turin_views">
<span class = "headnote">Turin: Views. Lamprede. Wines.</span></a></p>
<p>The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from
the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of
Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is
bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and
Mont Blanc on the other.</p>
<p>Among the delicacies of Turin are the <a name = "turin_lamprede" id =
"turin_lamprede">lamprede</a>, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught
in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white
truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la Piedmontese” or “à
la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable
dishes. <a name = "turin_wines" id = "turin_wines">The vermouth of
Turin</a> is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to
table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the
Barolo, a dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera,
a strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked
bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the
Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the
dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at
Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is
consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills.</p>
<p>Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">p. 153</a>). <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Turin to Genoa</a>,
103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279).
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">Turin to
Savona</a>, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see
p. 183, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map
p. 27</a>). <a href = "#turin_to_florence">Turin to Florence</a>,
291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena,
Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#map199">map p. 199</a>).</p>
<div class = "picture">
<!-- png 361 -->
<p class = "caption">
<span class = "smallcaps">THE WALDENSIAN VALLEYS<br>
and the Passes between France and Italy.</span></p>
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 304</span>
[Northwest] <i>See <a href = "#map291">map, page 291</a>.</i><br>
[West] <i>For continuation of the French Waldensian Valleys see <a href
= "#map326">map, page 326</a>.</i>
<a name = "map304" id = "map304" href = "images/map304.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map304thumb.png" width = "461" height = "395"
alt = "see caption"></a><br>
<i>For S. continuation see map, page 103.</i>
</p>
</div>
<span class = "pagenum">304</span>
<a name = "page304" id = "page304"> </a>
<!-- png 360 -->
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "waldenses" id = "waldenses">
THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR<br>
THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
(See accompanying <a href = "#map304">Map</a>.)</p>
<p>The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid
trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.</p>
<p>The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼
miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W.
from Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a
steam tram runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa,
the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram
station is near the railway station.</p>
<p>Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S.,
2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This
tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.</p>
<p>The <a name = "steam_trams" id = "steam_trams">Italian steam
trams</a> run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads.
Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford
excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so
quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.</p>
<p>Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail
from Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; <i>Inn:</i> Tré Limoni
d’Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the
other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill
rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On
the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví</a> (see
p. 184).</p>
<p>The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys
of Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long
from W. to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the
isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.
They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848
procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were
confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread
themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year
to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories
have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx
of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which
up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a
larger population of Romanists.</p>
<p>These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize,
wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows
<span class = "pagenum">305</span>
<a name = "page305" id = "page305"> </a>
<!-- png 362 -->
of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach,
apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded
mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only
high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between
the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625
ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft.,
a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’
Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "waldensian_doctrines" id =
"waldensian_doctrines">
<span class = "headnote">Waldensian Doctrines and
Persecutions.</span></a></p>
<p>The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side
of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the
French side (<a href = "#val_louise_2">pp. 344, 345</a>), and, as
there was constant communication between them, French became the common
language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a
part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then
almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced
by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted
confession by contrite prayer to God and the mention aloud of their sins
to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were
of two classes, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and
penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines
and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the
Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival
of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived
from “valle densa,” contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally
Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun
at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée
IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487
fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed
any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made,
property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they
were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among
the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Torre-Pèllice.</span></p>
<p><a name = "torrepellice" id =
"torrepellice"><b>Torre-Pèllice</b></a>, pop. 5200, <i>Inn:</i>
H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and
its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by rail from Turin,
10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of
Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a
considerable town to the N. of the station. <i>Inn:</i> Albergo del
Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking
village, with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several
elementary Protestant schools.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">306</span>
<a name = "page306" id = "page306"> </a>
<!-- png 363 -->
<p>Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley
enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the
Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for
girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph
office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the
Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and
dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many
Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made
the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.</p>
<p>The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is
drunk in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of
the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor,
4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and
schools. Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bobbio. Mirabouc. Col de la Croix.</span></p>
<p><a name = "torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin" id =
"torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin</b></a>
by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La
Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. walking. Up to <a name =
"bobbio" id = "bobbio"><b>Bobbio</b></a>, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½
hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, <i>Inns:</i> Camoscio, etc.,
there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts
till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of
<a name = "mirabouc" id = "mirabouc"><b>Fort Mirabouc</b></a>. At Mirabouc,
4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house
station, 5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and
accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent
of the <a name = "col_croix" id = "col_croix">Col, 7576 ft.</a>,
17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a
splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level,
and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the
char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés,
and Guillestre. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a> and
Guillestre, see p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map
p. 304</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pinerolo.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "pinerolo" id = "pinerolo">
PINEROLO.</a></h5>
<p>23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is
Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. <i>Inns:</i> *Couronne d’Or; Campana;
Cannon d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large
Piazza d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and
representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public
library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and
another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden,
and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a
large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large
staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is
<span class = "pagenum">307</span>
<a name = "page307" id = "page307"> </a>
<!-- png 364 -->
the Italian Alpine Club. <i>Cabs</i>—the course, 1 fr.; the
hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1 fr.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Perosa. Col d’Abriés.</span></p>
<p>Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to
Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam
tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. <a name = "perosa" id =
"perosa"><b>Perosa</b></a>, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, <i>Inn:</i>
H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction
with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop.
760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.</p>
<p><a name = "perosa_to_mont_dauphin" id =
"perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Perosa to Mont Dauphin.</b></a>—There
is a post-road up the Germanasca and down the Guil, an affluent of the
Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by Perrero and <a name = "col_abries"
id = "col_abries"><b>Abriés</b></a>. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from
Perosa and on the S. side of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from
Mont Dauphin. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a>, see
p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop.
560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello.
From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and
passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the
Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the
Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from
Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to
Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba
separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and
continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés,
8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali,
and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs.
(For <a href = "#abries">Abriés</a> and <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont
Dauphin</a>, see p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map,
p. 304</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fenestrelle. Col de Sestrières.</span></p>
<p><a name = "perosa_to_cesanne" id = "perosa_to_cesanne"><b>Perosa to
Cesanne</b></a>, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle,
Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is <a name =
"fenestrelle" id = "fenestrelle"><b>Fenestrelle</b></a>, pop. 1120,
<i>Inns:</i> Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest
Italian fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is
Pragelas, where the valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other
4½ m. is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the
<a name = "col_sestrieres" id = "col_sestrieres"><b>Col de
Sestrières</b></a>, a nearly level plain 2 m. long, commanding
a good view of Mont Albergian. The descent is by long windings to the
level of the Dora, which is crossed to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from
Sestrières” (Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p. 36). (For <a href =
"#briancon_to_oulx">Cesanne to Briançon</a> by Mont Genèvre, see under
Briançon, p. 333, and <a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>.)</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "saluzzo" id = "saluzzo">
SALUZZO.</a></h5>
<p><b>Saluzzo</b> is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam
tram from the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam
<span class = "pagenum">308</span>
<a name = "page308" id = "page308"> </a>
<!-- png 365 -->
tram, passing Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on
the Po, 14 m. W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della
Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., <i>Inn:</i>
Lion d’Or.</p>
<p>The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and
the Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to
Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble
statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788,
d. 1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, <i>Inns:</i> Corona Grossa; Gallo,
is a town of considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting
various places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "paesana" id = "paesana">
<span class = "headnote">Paesana. Crissolo. Col de la
Traversette.</span></a></p>
<p><a name = "saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin" id =
"saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</b></a>, 65½ m. W.
by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take
the coach which starts in the evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft.,
with two fair inns, passing Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the
valley becomes very picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually
more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road
reaches the sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is
<a name = "crissolo" id = "crissolo"><b>Crissolo</b></a>, 8 m. from
Paesana, 4374 ft.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the
Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the
opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave,
Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly
after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases—the
<a name = "pian_fiorenza" id = "pian_fiorenza"><b>Pian Fiorenza</b></a>,
6034 ft., and the <a name = "pian_del_re" id = "pian_del_re"><b>Pian del
Ré</b></a>, 6625 ft., containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine
plants. A little to the S.W. of the Pian del Ré is the source of
the Po. The road to the <a name = "col_traversette" id =
"col_traversette"><b>Col de la Traversette</b></a> leads N.W. from the
Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the
year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. below the crest
and 9564 ft. above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow,
pierced in 1480 by Ludovico II<ins class = "correction"
title = ". missing">. </ins>The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs.
ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by
the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is La
Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See <a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo">Mont
Dauphin to Saluzzo</a>, p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map
p. 304</a>; also Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p. 22.)</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Cuneo.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cuneo" id = "cuneo">
CUNEO.</a></h5>
<p>54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is
<b>Cuneo</b>, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, <i>Inns:</i> H. Barra di Ferro;
Albergo di Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min.
S.W.; also to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte,
Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier
village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">Cuneo to Nice</a> by the
Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">309</span>
<a name = "page309" id = "page309"> </a>
<!-- png 366 -->
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_to_florence" id =
"turin_to_florence">
Turin to Florence.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and
Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and
through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham,
and Dover Railway, 3d.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles to">291</span>
<b>TURIN.</b> (For <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Asti, and the route as far as
Alessandria</a>, see p. 280, and <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#map199">map p. 199</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles from">81</span>
<span class = "miles to">210</span>
<a name = "voghera" id = "voghera"><b>VOGHERA</b></a>, pop. 10,000, on
the Staffora. <i>Hotel:</i> H. Italia. Branch to Pavia, 17 m.
N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on
the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th June 1800, which
preceded that of Marengo by five days.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Piacenza. Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles from">117</span>
<span class = "miles to">174</span>
<a name = "piacenza" id = "piacenza"><b>PIACENZA</b></a>, pop. 36,000,
on the Po. <i>Hotels:</i> S. Marco; Italia; Croce Bianca.
<i>Cabs</i>—the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For
the first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr.
80 c.</p>
<p>In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’
Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander
Farnese and his son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of
S. Francesco, and on the other the Palazzo del Governo, and
opposite it the picturesque <b>Palazzo del Comune</b>, begun in 1281.
The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the
building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street,
the Strada Diritta, leads to the <a name = "piacenza_cathedral" id =
"piacenza_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> (1122-1233), containing some
admirable paintings. In the interior the arches are round, but the ribs
of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d altar is a picture, by
A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the 4th a painting of
the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an altar-piece, Three
Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling frescoes by Agostino and
Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The Coronation of the Virgin is
by Procaccini. The <b>Cupola</b> is divided into eight compartments; six
of them were painted by Guercino, with figures of prophets and sybils;
the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below are four allegorical
paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt under the church rests
on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former cathedral) was commenced in
the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The curious vestibule and the
massive columns bearing the tower are relics of the earlier edifice. At
the W. end of the town is <b>Sa. Maria di Campagna</b>, famous for
paintings by Pordenone. On
<span class = "pagenum">310</span>
<a name = "page310" id = "page310"> </a>
<!-- png 367 -->
the left of the chief entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and
five Angels; in the 1st chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity
of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we
have on the left the “Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being
portraits of the Pordenone family, and a fine fresco also by him,
representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the
frescoes in the eight compartments of the cupola; those in the
pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly decorated church is
<i>S. Sisto</i> (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic atrium.
Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto.</p>
<p>The <i>Palazzo Farnese</i> is a great, unfinished, building, begun in
1558 by Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace,
now the Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of
Piacenza is the site of <i>Velleia</i>, a town which was
overwhelmed by a landslip in the 3d cent. Many interesting objects have
been obtained there; which have been deposited in the museum of Parma.
In the vicinity are emanations from the ground of carburetted hydrogen
gas, which takes fire on the application of a flame.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Parma. Museum.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles from">153</span>
<span class = "miles to">138</span>
<a name = "parma" id = "parma"><b>PARMA</b></a>, pop. 46,000, on the
Parma. <i>Hotels:</i> Albergo Centrale; Croce Bianca; Leone d’Oro.
Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered by the Romans 183
<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, is a neat clean town of modern
appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the
edifices is the Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the <i>Palazzo
Farnese</i>, a large unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the
Piazza del Corte behind the Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a
collection of paintings belonging to the French school. In the Farnese
are the Museum of Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the
Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in
the time of Duke Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid
spectacles and grand public entertainments.</p>
<p><a name = "parma_museum" id = "parma_museum"><i>The Museum of
Antiquities</i></a> embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman
altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia and Rome.
Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in 1st room.
In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the
“Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to
the support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria
Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the
same staircase is the <i>Library</i>, with 150,000 volumes, and some
thousands of MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of
one of which is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">311</span>
<a name = "page311" id = "page311"> </a>
<!-- png 368 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Parma: Picture-Gallery—Correggio.</span></p>
<p><a name = "parma_gallery" id = "parma_gallery"><i>The
Pinacoteca</i></a> is on the same floor of the palace as the library,
and is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large,
but is remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In
selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters
alphabetically to facilitate reference.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<i>Annibal Caracci.</i>—Pietá. <i>Lodovico
Caracci.</i>—Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of
the Virgin (two large pictures). <i>Cima da Conegliano.</i>—Two
very good pictures. (<b>Correggio.</b>)—1. The Madonna della
Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna
della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. <i>The Madonna
with St. Jerome</i>, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright
daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden—this is
Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever
painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels
of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk
that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus
and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully
treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics
think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early
production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the
walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi
the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) <i>Albert
Durer.</i>—Man with a Skull. <i>Francesco
Francia.</i>—Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with
Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming).
<i>Garofalo.</i>—Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape
below. <i>Giovanni di San Giovanni.</i>—A Singing party.
<i>Murillo.</i>—St. Jerome. <i>Parmegianino.</i>—The
Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the
Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the
frame). <i>Fra Paola da Pistoia.</i>—Adoration of Magi.
<i>Pordenone.</i>—Portrait of a Man with an open book.
<i>Raffaello(?).</i>—Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St.
John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of
Raffaello). <i>Giuseppe Rosa.</i>—Landscape with Cattle.
<i>Lionello Spada.</i>—Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of
St. Catharine. <i>Spagnoletto.</i>—Twelve pictures of Saints.
<i>B. Schidone.</i>—The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre;
Virgin, Child, and St. John. <i>Vandyck.</i>—Virgin and Child;
Portrait of an Old Lady. <i>Velasquez.</i>—Portrait of a Man in a
black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). <i>L. da
Vinci.</i>—Sketch of a Female Head. <i>Zuccarelli.</i>—River
Scene.</p>
<p><i>The Ducal Garden</i>, open daily to the public, is on the other
side of the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called
the Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal
style; but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it
affords a pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called
Palazzo di Giardino. The <i>Botanic Gardens</i> are at the other side of
the town,
<span class = "pagenum">312</span>
<a name = "page312" id = "page312"> </a>
<!-- png 369 -->
near the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is
planted with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the
town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Parma: Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the <a name
= "parma_cathedral" id = "parma_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>,
a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and 14th
cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. In the
interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an
elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted
by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the
great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one
of Parmegianino. <i>The cupola</i> was painted by <i>Correggio</i>
(1526-30), with frescoes representing the <i>Assumption of the
Virgin</i>, but they are in a ruined state. Those on the vault of the
right transept were by a son of Correggio, while those on the left
transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the
right side of the church, at the foot of the choir-steps, is an
altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a poor bust of Petrarch, with
an inscription recording that he was archdeacon here. Beneath the choir
is a spacious crypt, supported by thirty-four marble columns. On the
walls of the sacristy are frescoes of the 14th century, and intarsias by
L. Biancho.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Parma: Baptistery. S. Giovanni.</span></p>
<p>The <a name = "parma_baptistery" id =
"parma_baptistery"><i>Baptistery</i></a> is a lofty octagonal building
(1196-1281), with four deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with
bas-reliefs. The four tiers of open galleries with columns, and a fifth
tier of engaged arches, the pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring
of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most
remarkable buildings of its class in Italy. In the interior there are
two tiers of galleries, some rude sculpture, and a profusion of fresco
painting—old, but not of much value. At the middle is a great
font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place
where the priest could stand, protected from the water, whilst he
immersed the child. The font at which the Parmesans are now baptised is
at one side, ornamented with carvings, and supported by a marble lion.
<a name = "pparma_san_giovanni" id = "pparma_san_giovanni"><b>S.
Giovanni Evangelista</b></a> (1510), a church standing near the
cathedral, and much visited on account of the <i>frescoes painted by
Correggio</i> (1520-25) <i>in the cupola</i>; they represent the Vision
of St. John, and, though blackened and badly lighted, they are
fortunately in a better condition than those in the cathedral. The
figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists and the
Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory above.
Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of the
sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a
fresco of St. John.
<span class = "pagenum">313</span>
<a name = "page313" id = "page313"> </a>
<!-- png 370 -->
In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal entrance is a good
painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of
Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by
Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the
left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at
Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the
entrance are much-damaged <i>frescoes by Parmegianino</i> (four
subjects); and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ
with his Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the
adjoining <i>convent</i> (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of
two children by Correggio.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Parma: S. Paolo—Correggio.</span></p>
<p>Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the <i>Madonna della
Steccata</i>, from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best
frescoes are by Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam
and Eve, and the Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over
the high altar a Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the
cupola. The wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good
Madonna in corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte
is the church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed
<a name = "parma_san_paolo" id = "parma_san_paolo"><b>Convent of
S. Paolo</b></a>, now a school. In this small building are the best
preserved works of <a name = "parma_correggio" id =
"parma_correggio">Correggio</a>, painted for the abbess of the convent
on the walls and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is
Children, or Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of
a bower or piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most
charmingly portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is
painted over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller
figures in grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The
custodian is generally to be found in the picture-gallery.</p>
<p>The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan,
Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used
in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is <a name =
"reggio_emilia" id = "reggio_emilia"><b>Reggio Emilia</b></a> (pop.
24,000). <i>Hotels:</i> Posta; Cavaletto. <i>Cabs</i>—80 c. the
course; 1½ fr. the hour. <i>Sights</i>—Cathedral; house of
Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His <i>Orlando Furioso</i> went
through sixteen editions in the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio,
the birthplace of the great painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio.
To the Castle of Canossa and back, 14 frs.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Modena. Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles from">185¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">105¾</span>
<a name = "modena" id = "modena"><b>MODENA</b></a>, pop. 31,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their omnibuses await the
trains. <i>Cabs</i>—one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr. 50 c.
the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the
hour.</p>
<p>Modena (<i>Mutina</i>, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of
Modena,
<span class = "pagenum">314</span>
<a name = "page314" id = "page314"> </a>
<!-- png 371 -->
is a clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which
serve the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and
fertile. A canal connects the town with the Panaro,
a tributary of the Po, by which means water communication with the
Adriatic is obtained.</p>
<p>The <a name = "modena_cathedral" id =
"modena_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, begun in 1099, is in the centre
of the city. Its exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The
principal façade is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and
three doorways. On the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch,
with columns resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior,
though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting,
especially for the sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many
marble columns. At the entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and
in one corner life-size figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli,
representing the Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts,
which look as if they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and
the stone pulpit with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are
some curious old bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on
the left side of the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the
house of Este in the male line, died 1803. The <i>Campanile</i>, one of
the finest in Italy, 315 feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th
cents. It received the name of Ghirlandina from its vane being
ornamented with a bronze garland.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "modena_ducal_palace" id =
"modena_ducal_palace">
Modena: Ducal Palace.</a></span>
At the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the <b>Ducal Palace</b>,
an immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls
in the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open
daily from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600
pictures, amongst which, though there are no <i>chefs d’œuvre</i>, are
many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries,
but towards the end of the last century 180 pictures were sold,
including five Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at
Dresden); and the Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few
more of the best. In two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings
and sketches by the old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for
Tintoretto’s masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room
kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some
interesting cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini,
another of amber, a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving
in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is
a “Presepio,” with numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of
silver.</p>
<p>The <a name = "modena_library" id =
"modena_library"><i>Library</i></a>, on the same staircase as the
Pinacoteca, contains
<span class = "pagenum">315</span>
<a name = "page315" id = "page315"> </a>
<!-- png 372 -->
about 100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000
MSS. placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few
Roman and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals
struck at Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near
the gate of that name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a
block of stone obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18
feet below the surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval
tombs. In the church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by
Begarelli, of the Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this
artist’s works.</p>
<p>The <i>Ducal Garden</i> is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which
is open to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bologna.</span></p>
<!-- png 374 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 316</span>
<a name = "map316" id = "map316" href = "images/map316.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map316thumb.png" width = "471" height = "273"
alt = "plan of Bologna" title = "BOLOGNA"></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
<span class = "miles from">208¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">82¾</span>
<a name = "bologna" id = "bologna"><b>BOLOGNA</b></a>, pop. 91,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; del Pellegrino; Tre
Re; Venezia; Commercio. <i>Restaurants:</i> Stelloni; Felsineo.
Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. <i>Cabs</i>—one horse,
the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway
station, without luggage, 1 fr.</p>
<p>Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile
plain near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of
painting is called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico
Carracci (b. 1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale
(b. 1560, d. 1609) and Agostino, a man of erudition, who
furnished the general plan of the pictures. Their most distinguished
pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d. 1642), Domenichino
(b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G.
Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590,
d. 1666), Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569,
d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b. 1628, d. 1719);
<span class = "headnote float">
Bologna: Picture-Gallery.</span>
beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the various
churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the “<a name =
"bologna_accademia" id = "bologna_accademia"><i>Accademia delle Belle
Arti</i></a>,” situated at the north-east end of the town, near the
Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of the first
floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the artists, and
is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. Cecilia, by
Raphael.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The other best works are:—12. <i>Guercino</i>.—St. William;
13, St. Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist.
26. <i>Bugiardini</i>.—Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. <i>Agostino
Caracci</i>.—Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest
paintings; 35. Assumption. 36. <i>Annibale Caracci</i>.—Virgin and
Child, with Angels and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40.
<i>Lodovico Caracci</i>.—Assumption;
<span class = "pagenum">316</span>
<a name = "page316" id = "page316"> </a>
<!-- png 373 -->
42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the Virgin and Child; 43.
Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. St. John the Baptist;
47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. <i>M.
Desubleo</i>.—Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75.
<i>Lavinia Fontana</i>.—St. Francis de Paul. 78. <i>Fr.
Francia</i>.—Virgin and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79.
Annunciation; 80. Virgin and Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are
several other unnumbered pictures by this master on frames. 84.
<i>Giacomo Francia</i>.—Virgin and Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints.
89, 90. <i>Innocenzio da Imola</i> (an imitator of
Raffaello).—Virgin and Saints. 122. <i>Nicola da
Cremona</i>—Descent from the Cross.. 134.
<i>Guido</i>.—Madonna with the Protectors of Bologna; 135.
Massacre of the Innocents; 136. Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s
Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried
in processions); 139. Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian.
152. <i>Raphael</i>.—<span class = "smallcaps">St. Cecilia</span>,
with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the instruments
of secular music lie broken on the ground). This celebrated composition,
painted in 1515, is well known from copies and engravings. 175.
<i>Elisabetta Sirani</i>.—St. Anthony of Padua; 176. Madonna. 181.
<i>L. Spada</i>.—Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183.
<i>Tiarini</i>.—St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197.
<i>Perugino</i>.—Virgin and Saints. 204. <i>Timoteo delle
Vite</i>.—Magdalene. 206. <i>Domenichino</i>.—Martyrdom of
St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of
Verona (the same subject as that treated by Titian in a picture lately
burnt at Venice). 212. <i>Unknown</i>.—Sleeping Child. 291.
<i>Desubleo</i>.—St. John the Baptist. 292. <i>Innocenzio da
Imola</i>.—Virgin and Saints. 294.
<i>Bugiardini</i>.—Madonna. 360. <i>Aluno</i> (<i>Nicolo da
Foligno</i>).—Virgin and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius
IX.)</p>
<p>In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour
(<i>Oploteca</i>), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures.
A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bologna_university" id =
"bologna_university">
<span class = "headnote">Bologna: University. S. Giacomo.</span></a></p>
<p>Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430
students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous,
have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism,
Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe
Mezzofanti (d. 1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two
languages. From the tower is a good view of the town. Attached to the
University is a Museum of Antiquities and a Library. The Geological
Museum is in a separate building. From the University, walking towards
the leaning towers, we pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see
plan), the oratory of St. Cecilia, the church of <a name =
"bologna_san_giacomo" id =
"bologna_san_giacomo"><b>S. Giacomo</b></a>, and (14) the Palazzo
Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind
of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.</p>
<p><i>S. Giacomo Maggiore</i> was built in 1267, but subsequently
restored. In the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti,
the Virgin
<span class = "pagenum">317</span>
<a name = "page317" id = "page317"> </a>
<!-- png 375 -->
on a Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in
the 8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th,
three pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino
Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the
end of the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel,
with Francesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna,” the lunette above
by Giacomo Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of
the church, contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s
Presentation in the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bologna: The Two Towers.</span></p>
<p>In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia
and St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini.
During the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the
commencement of the Strada Donato are the <a name = "bologna_towers" id
= "bologna_towers"><b>Two Towers</b></a> (28 in plan), seen from a great
distance. The taller, the <i>Torre degli Asinelli</i>, commenced in
1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and ascended by
a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence there is
the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in 1110, is
139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, the
Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the <i>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</i>, with,
on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo
del’ Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal.
Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various
buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned
with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bologna: S. Petronio.</span></p>
<p><a name = "bologna_san_petronio" id = "bologna_san_petronio"><b>S.
Petronio</b></a>, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick,
and in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are
remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In
the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th
chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s
grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows
are said to be from M. Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel,
a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides,
attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535),
who was at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile
is over this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini.
On the floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in
1652. In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in
the 7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba,
by Tiarini. At the southern end of the church is (29 in
<span class = "pagenum">318</span>
<a name = "page318" id = "page318"> </a>
<!-- png 376 -->
plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, in the building called the Archiginnasio
Antico, originally the University, before it was removed to its present
edifice. Besides the Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a
valuable Museum of Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and
S. Stefano are (17) the <a name = "bologna_pal_mercanzia" id =
"bologna_pal_mercanzia"><i>Pal. della Mercanzia</i></a>, the Chamber of
Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the
Casino.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_san_stefano" id =
"bologna_san_stefano">
Bologna: Santo Stefano.</a></span>
<b>Santo Stefano</b> is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and
courts, on the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the
Church of the Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great
altar. In the 1st chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the
2d on the left St. Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small
chapel into the circular chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the
tomb of St. Petronius, with curious carvings, and a miraculous well,
considered to have healing virtues. This building is thought to have
been formerly the baptistery of the next chapel (originally, perhaps,
the principal chapel), dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small
court, called the Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that
at Jerusalem, we gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which
contains four marble columns said to have belonged to the temple of
Isis, and some pictures by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural
paintings in the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in
the subterranean chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown
which is said to afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After
visiting a cloister, where the columns show much variety of form, we
have made the complete tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings,
which are of great interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano
in the Strada Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see
plan), 2, S. Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the
celebrated composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side
is the church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for
its collection of pictures.
<span class = "headnote float">
Bologna: San Bartolommeo.<br>
Palazzo Zampieri. San Domenico.</span>
<a name = "bologna_san_bartolommeo" id =
"bologna_san_bartolommeo"><i>San Bartolommeo</i></a>, built in 1653, has
some fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an
“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by
Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by
Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned
from London in 1859. <a name = "bologna_pal_zampieri" id =
"bologna_pal_zampieri"><i>Palazzo Zampieri</i></a> (admission, ½ fr.),
although deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable
frescoes by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of
<a name = "bologna_ai_servi" id = "bologna_ai_servi"><i>Ai
Servi</i></a>, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In
the 2d chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th,
a St. Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by
Inno da
<span class = "pagenum">319</span>
<a name = "page319" id = "page319"> </a>
<!-- png 377 -->
Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of
<a name = "bologna_san_domenico" id = "bologna_san_domenico"><b>S.
Domenico</b></a>, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and
died. The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th.
Interior—2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti.
Right of south transept—the splendidly decorated chapel of <i>St.
Dominic</i>, with his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic.
di Pisa. The garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469.
The kneeling angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the
sarcophagus, were by Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb,
with its bas-reliefs illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added
until 1532, a work of Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of
the chapel is a fresco by Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic.
The painting of the Saint burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is
by L. Spada; that of the Saint recalling a Child to Life is by
Tiarini. In a chapel on the right side of the high altar is the Marriage
of Saint Catharine, by Filippino Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the
high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In the left transept should be noticed the
tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on the wall a portrait of St. Thomas
Aquinas, considered here an accurate likeness, though painted 100 years
after the death of the saint.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_guido" id =
"bologna_guido">
Bologna: Guido’s Tomb.</a></span>
Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel
of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of
Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his
favourite lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the
Caracci, executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the
reredos of the altar in this chapel.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bologna: San Pietro.</span></p>
<p>Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is <a name =
"bologna_san_pietro" id =
"bologna_san_pietro"><b>S. Pietro</b></a>, rebuilt in 1605,
containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last
painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it.
Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st
chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine
Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In
the 1st chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in
the 5th chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to
Perugino; in the next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the
chapel next the entrance, Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old
monuments in the cloisters. East from the leaning-towers is
S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent., and lately restored. At
the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by Tiarini; in a large
chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful landscape, by
F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the chapel on the
left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">320</span>
<a name = "page320" id = "page320"> </a>
<!-- png 378 -->
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bologna_environs" id = "bologna_environs">
ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.</a></h5>
<p>Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the <a name =
"bologna_annunziata" id = "bologna_annunziata"><b>Annunziata</b></a>. In
the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by
L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo
Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in
the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Madonna di S. Luca. The Certosa.</span></p>
<p>Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the
<a name = "madonna_san_luca" id = "madonna_san_luca"><b>Madonna di
S. Luca</b></a>, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view.
It is approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond
the gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m.
This portico was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was
finished. The church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed
to have been painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed
from the church. Outside the same gate is the <a name =
"bologna_certosa" id = "bologna_certosa"><b>Certosa</b></a>, formerly a
Carthusian convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures,
and the chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom
attached to each.</p>
<p>269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is <a class = "riviera" href
= "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja</a> (see p. 231), and 291 m.
from Turin is <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence">Florence</a> (see p. 233).</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary">
<a name = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur" id = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur">
St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the<br>
Little St. Bernard.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
(74 m. N.E. <a href = "#map291">See Map, page 290</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
<span class = "miles to">74</span>
<b>ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY </b>(see <a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">p.
289</a>), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and 45½ m. N.W. from
Modane.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
<span class = "miles from">14</span>
<span class = "miles to">60</span>
<a name = "albertville" id = "albertville"><b>ALBERTVILLE</b></a>, pop.
5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i> Million;
Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and Annecy,
22 m. N.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">22</span>
<span class = "miles to">52</span>
<a name = "la_roche_cevins" id = "la_roche_cevins"><b>LA ROCHE
CEVINS</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden
and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m.
beyond is the defile Pas de Briançon.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
<span class = "miles from">31</span>
<span class = "miles to">43</span>
<a name = "moutiers" id = "moutiers"><b>MOUTIERS</b></a>, pop. 2100, and
600 ft. above the sea-level, on the confluence of the Doron with the
Isère. <i>Inns:</i> Couronne; Courriers. One mile from the town is the
Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200 ft. At the base are the salt
springs, utilised both
<span class = "pagenum">321</span>
<a name = "page321" id = "page321"> </a>
<!-- png 379 -->
by salt-works and a bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road
extends up a narrow and picturesque defile, following the course of the
Isère, past St. Marcel, pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock
called the Detroit du Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where
the valley is only 145 ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with
the village of Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet,
8375 ft., commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of
Villette, pop. 500, we reach</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aime. Seez.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
<span class = "miles from">41</span>
<span class = "miles to">33</span>
<a name = "aime" id = "aime"><b>AIME</b></a>, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft.
above the sea-level. <i>Inn:</i> Petit St. Bernard. This, the “Forum
Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of extensive Roman fortifications,
and a very ancient church called St. Martin, built of stones from Roman
buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre, pop. 1100, on the Isere, where
the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass of the Little St. Bernard comes
into view.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">50</span>
<span class = "miles to">24</span>
<a name = "bourg_st_maurice" id = "bourg_st_maurice"><b>BOURG ST.
MAURICE</b></a>, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i>
Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the
confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">52</span>
<span class = "miles to">22</span>
<a name = "seez" id = "seez"><b>SEEZ</b></a>, the ancient Sextum, a
pretty village between six mountains, pop. 2600, and 2985 ft. above the
sea-level. From Seez the road passes the village of Villard-Dessus, and
then crosses the Recluse by a lofty bridge near an escarpment of gypsum,
called the Roche Blanche, supposed to be the place noticed by Polybius,
where Hannibal posted himself to protect his cavalry and beasts of
burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain; the last inhabited village
during the winter. From St. Germain the ascent is easy to the</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
<span class = "miles from">58½</span>
<span class = "miles to">15½</span>
<a name = "hospice" id = "hospice"><b>HOSPICE</b></a>, 7077 ft., founded
by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy plain 3 m. long, and about a
mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated by the Colonne de Joux,
Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino marble. From the Hospice,
Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended. About 300 paces from the
column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a circle of large stones
lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to have held a council of
war, 218 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A few miles below
are Cantine des Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile,
a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the sea-level, 9 m. from
Courmayeur.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pré St. Didier.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
<span class = "miles from">70</span>
<span class = "miles to">4</span>
<a name = "pre_st_didier" id = "pre_st_didier"><b>PRÉ ST.
DIDIER</b></a>, pop. 1300, on the Doire. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Pavilion.
Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See <a href = "#map291">map,
p. 290</a>.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">322</span>
<a name = "page322" id = "page322"> </a>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">74</span>
<a name = "courmayeur" id = "courmayeur"><b>COURMAYEUR</b></a>, 4211
ft., the highest considerable village in the valley of Aosta.
<i>Inns:</i> Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach
leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs.
Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every
summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and
for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters,
which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are
sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable
circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in
the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur—the road to
Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du
Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St.
Bernard.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane_lyons" id =
"paris_to_modane_lyons">
Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and
Modane to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the
Baths of Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for
Grenoble, which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux
and the other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places
are Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.</p>
<p class = "center smaller">
(<a href = "#map304">Map, page 304</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles to">476</span>
<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à
Lyon, where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons
follow pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">318</span>
<span class = "miles to">158</span>
<b>LYONS.</b> Perrache station. (See <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons">p. 29</a>.)<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">325½</span>
<span class = "miles to">150½</span>
<a name = "st_priest" id = "st_priest"><b>ST. PRIEST</b></a>, pop. 2800.
In the old castle here Charles VII. confined his son Louis XI., then the
Dauphin.</p>
<!-- png 380 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourgoin. Virieu.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">344</span>
<span class = "miles to">132</span>
<a name = "bourgoin" id = "bourgoin"><b>BOURGOIN</b></a>, pop. 5200.
<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres of bog, producing
large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La Tour-du-Pin, pop.
3200. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. On the Bourbre.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">358</span>
<span class = "miles to">118</span>
<a name = "st_andre_le_gaz" id = "st_andre_le_gaz"><b>ST.
ANDRE-LE-GAZ</b></a>. A coach at this station awaits passengers for
Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse
may be visited.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">363</span>
<span class = "miles to">113</span>
<a name = "virieu" id = "virieu"><b>VIRIEU</b></a>, pop. 2000. With a
large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in good preservation, containing
tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">323</span>
<a name = "page323" id = "page323"> </a>
<!-- png 381 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Chabons. Rives. Voiron.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">368</span>
<span class = "miles to">108</span>
<a name = "chabons" id = "chabons"><b>CHABONS</b></a>, pop. 2000. 5 m.
distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft. deep, surrounded by
wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end of the lake is
Paladru, pop. 1000.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">371</span>
<span class = "miles to">105</span>
<a name = "rives" id = "rives"><b>RIVES</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inn:</i>
Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station, on the Fure. It has
some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well as some considerable
forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants employ themselves in
the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The parish church was built
in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the castle of Châteaubourg,
destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from Rives to St. Rambert,
35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see page 43).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">378</span>
<span class = "miles to">98</span>
<a name = "voiron" id = "voiron"><b>VOIRON</b></a>, 939 ft., pop.
12,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches and gigs await
passengers for the <a name = "grande_chartreuse" id =
"grande_chartreuse"><b>Grande Chartreuse</b></a>, 15 m. distant by the
village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and
6 from the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy
town on the river Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth
manufactories. Here the monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large
premises for the sale of their famous cordials, which they distil, not
in the monastery itself, but in a large building a little beyond St.
Laurent. The road from Voiron to the Grande Chartreuse joins the road
from Voreppe just before reaching the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont,
distant from both stations 9 m., 1344 ft., pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i>
Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we pass on our right the
distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a narrow gorge, among fine
woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, consisting of an immense
square building, garnished with pavilions, situated on a narrow plateau
3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base of the Grand Som, which towers
3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from this place in about 3 hrs. This
monastery, the head establishment of the Carthusian friars, was founded
by St. Bruno, the originator of the order, in 1084. At first it
consisted only of a small chapel, with six poor cells, the habitations
of St. Bruno and his followers, built in what was then an almost
inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.</p>
<p>The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided
with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small
garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being
occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the
handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple
vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs.
<span class = "pagenum">324</span>
<a name = "page324" id = "page324"> </a>
<!-- png 382 -->
walk in the surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and
on feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse.
Animal food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span> they attend mass, excepting on Sundays, when
the hour is 8 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> Vespers are said at
4 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, and matins at a quarter to 12
midnight. Visitors who wish to see the monks should endeavour to be at
the chapel-door at any of these hours. For gentlemen guests there is
ample accommodation in the convent, clean beds, three large
dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent water. The men-servants,
of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story; the wives, however, of
these servants, not being allowed to enter the convent, dwell in a house
a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in this house also that ladies
who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no female is allowed to enter the
monastery.</p>
<p>Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they
distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at
Voiron, at the following prices:—Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the
litre bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche,
4 frs.</p>
<p>From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in
about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before
commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St.
Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the
top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S.,
5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per
day.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Moirans. Voreppe. Grenoble.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">381½</span>
<span class = "miles to">94½</span>
<a name = "moirans" id = "moirans"><b>MOIRANS</b></a>, pop. 1000.
<i>Inn:</i> H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to Valence,
50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, <a name = "st_marcellin" id
= "st_marcellin"><b>St. Marcellin</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i>
Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to the
picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S.,
whence another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle.
(For <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die</a>, see
p. 47.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">385</span>
<span class = "miles to">91</span>
<a name = "voreppe" id = "voreppe"><b>VOREPPE</b></a>, pop. 3000.
<i>Inn:</i> Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse may alight here
also, from which it is 15 m. distant.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">394</span>
<span class = "miles to">82</span>
<a name = "grenoble" id = "grenoble"><b>GRENOBLE</b></a>, pop. 46,000,
and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated on the Isère, by far the
greater part being on the left bank, while on the other there is a mere
strip hemmed in between the river and the steep declivities of the
Bastile. <i>Hotels:</i> in the Place Grenette, the *Monnet; Europe; the
two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in the Rue Montorge, is
the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial travellers.
Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from the 7th
to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room
<span class = "pagenum">325</span>
<a name = "page325" id = "page325"> </a>
<!-- png 383 -->
No. 9. Among the cheaper second-class houses are the H. des Alpes;
Marseille; *Bayard; all near each other and to the Place Grenette. Of
the small houses at the station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple
Protestant at the W. end of the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions
for a very small sum may be taken to all the important places in the
neighbourhood by means of the rail and the diligences and omnibuses
which start from the Place Grenette. On the road to the railway station
is a large and handsome hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St.
Hugues. A little way down, on the other side of the river, is the
Esplanade, a very large oblong square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded
by trees, much frequented on feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de
Ville, off the Place Grenette.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_coaches" id =
"grenoble_coaches">
<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Coaches. Bastile.</span></a></p>
<p>From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey,
Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and
Gières; from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs.,
fare 5 frs.; also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs., 7
hrs.</p>
<p>The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit
of the <a name = "grenoble_bastile" id =
"grenoble_bastile"><b>Bastile</b></a>, 915 ft. above the river. To reach
it cross the river by the bridge highest up, then ascend by the first
road to the left in the village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After
numerous windings by a bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side
of the mountain exposed to the S., a square house is attained on
the plateau behind the fort. The view is magnificent, but it is still
better from the peak immediately above, where there is one of the
quarries of argillaceous siliceous limestone, extensively used for
making cement. Ascend either by the continuation of the same
bullock-road or by the steep footpath. The isolated mountain, so
prominent from the village of La Tronche, is Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft.
Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that remains of its early
history are some fragments of the walls built by Diocletian. The most
interesting of the buildings is the Palais des Dauphins, now the Palais
de Justice.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_bayard" id =
"grenoble_bayard">
Grenoble: Bayard. St. André.</a></span>
In the square in front is a bronze statue of Bayard, one of the most
illustrious heroes of a chivalrous age, esteemed by his contemporaries
the model of soldiers and of men of honour. Born in 1476 at the
neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died at Rebecq on the 30th April
1524 from wounds received at the battle of Romagnane, and was buried in
the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from Grenoble, whence in 1823 his
ashes were removed to the church of St. André and deposited in the tomb
in the N. transept. <a name = "grenoble_st_andre" id =
"grenoble_st_andre"><b>St. André</b></a>, founded in the 13th cent., was
the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the intersection of the
transepts rises
<span class = "pagenum">326</span>
<a name = "page326" id = "page326"> </a>
<!-- png 384 -->
a fine tower, terminating with a steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the
Hôtel de Ville, fronting the promenade. The tower of the 12th cent,
attached to the Hôtel de Ville stands on foundations laid by
Diocletian.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Grenoble: Library.</span></p>
<p>E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th
to the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone
tabernacle, and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th
cent. At the S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the
Place de la Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture
occupies the entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic
Gardens and the Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a
handsome building, are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature.
On the E. side are the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice
containing the public library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft.
long and 156 ft. wide, and cost £67,585. <a name = "grenoble_library" id
= "grenoble_library"><b>The Library</b></a>, open every day except
Monday, contains 150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a
comfortable reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and
44 ft. wide, is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted
by handsome cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed
richly-illuminated manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass
cases containing medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric
times. Among the MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by
Raoul de Sestre in 1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New
Testament, 12th cent., and another in Vaudois, 13th cent.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_gallery" id =
"grenoble_gallery">
<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Picture Gallery.</span></a></p>
<p>The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains
550 paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the
largest and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists
are:—Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine,
Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino,
Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes,
C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink,
Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude
Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch,
Holbeina, Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic,
Licinio, Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard,
Millet, Monnayer, Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel,
Perugino, Piombo, Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens,
Ruisdael, Rysbraek, Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur,
D. Teniers, Terburg, Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin,
Van den
<span class = "pagenum">327</span>
<a name = "page327" id = "page327"> </a>
<!-- png 386 -->
Veldt, Van Loo, P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last
room of the picture gallery is a chamber containing the busts and
portraits of the most famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the
Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to VI., Jean I. and II.,
Humbert I. and II.—Bayard, 1476-1524; Lesdiguières,
1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780; Champollion,
1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable antique furniture,
porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also one of those models
of the Bastile which were distributed among the eighty-three departments
of France after the fall of that stronghold of despotism on the 14th of
July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery is the Rue Lesdiguières
leading to the Temple Protestant.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_museum" id =
"grenoble_museum">
Grenoble: Museum.</a></span>
On the way is passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the
Museum of Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the
museum consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens
illustrating the organic and inorganic products of this part of the
Alps. The birds and ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out
to La Tronche is the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th
cent., is supported on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5
ft. high.</p>
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_gloves" id =
"grenoble_gloves">
Grenoble: Manufactures.</a></span>
<p>Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble,
representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the
workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves
in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in
1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of
Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline.
Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department.
The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well
selected.</p>
<p>Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs.
Returns next day at 8. Coach daily to <a href =
"#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341),
passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the
Roman road and the Durance.
<span class = "sidetrip">
7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow
valley. 1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring,
and strata of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead
ore.</span></p>
<!-- png 385 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 326</span>
<span class = "smallcaps">
the french<br>
WALDENSIAN VALLEYS</span><br>
<a name = "map326" id = "map326" href = "images/map326.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map326thumb.png" width = "458" height = "466"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sassenage.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is <a name = "sassenage" id =
"sassenage"><b>Sassenage</b></a>. Omnibuses start from the Place
Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez omnibuses leave their
passengers at the entrance into the town near the H. Faure, but the
Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the “Place” and stop before the
inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the inn is the house of the
guide for Les Cuves, whose services are necessary to be able to cross
the Furon and the torrent from the Cuves.
<span class = "pagenum">328</span>
<a name = "page328" id = "page328"> </a>
<!-- png 387 -->
This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and Sassenage itself
makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense number of small
vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; whence it is a very
pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to Sassenage. The
suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of this kind
constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains it is
supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. The
gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of limestone
strata of great thickness, much valued for building purposes. The path
to the Cuves commences at the left side (approaching) of the H. du
Commerce, and, having passed through a doorway, enters a kind of park
and ascends by the right side of the Furon. About 1½ m. up is a
great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks as if it had been made
artificially, out of which rushes a copious stream of pure water. After
crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of a little more than 150 ft. to
an enormous vault, within which are two caves, called Les Cuves, out of
each of which rushes a great volume of water, which united passes under
the cavern below called the Four des Fées. After this two or three
beautiful cascades, quite near, are visited, and the Furon is crossed
and the return made by the left side of this most picturesque river.
From the Cuves side is seen part of the ruins of the old castle of the
Berangers, to which a series of steps leads up, commencing near the
mills, left bank. Their modern castle, built in the 17th cent., stands
within a large park adjoining the village. The large halls are furnished
with antique furniture and hung with paintings, a large proportion
being family and historical portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and
marchioness are hung with old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese
is made in the mountains around Villard and Lans, some miles to the
south of Grenoble. The general quality is not so good as formerly, as
more of the cream now is used for making butter.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Grenoble to Briançon.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "grenoble_to_briancon" id = "grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble
to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans</b></a> and the Col de Lautaret (see
<a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>). Distance, 69 m.
E. Diligence daily. When there is much snow, the Col is passed on
sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to the state of the road. Fare,
16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from Briançon to Grenoble stops several
hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a good plan to alight there for the
night. This magnificent mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in
1804, opened in 1842, and finished in 1868, makes a charming walking
excursion; while from almost every village grand mountain tours may be
made. Bourg d’Oisans, with a comfortable inn, the H. de France,
makes capital quarters. There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney,
H. d’Europe; La Grave, H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le
Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the Hospice itself on the top of
the Pass, where beds and food may be had at most reasonable charges.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Claix. Vizille. Séchilienne.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the
river Drac and the railway, is the village of <a name = "claix" id =
"claix"><b>Claix</b></a>. <i>Inn:</i> H. de France, with a bridge
across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53 ft. above the river,
built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m.
<span class = "pagenum">329</span>
<a name = "page329" id = "page329"> </a>
<!-- png 388 -->
farther S. by a road between poplars is <a name = "vizille_2" id =
"vizille_2"><b>Vizille</b></a>, pop. 3900. <i>Inns:</i> Imbert; Lion
d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the station.
A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between high
mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is <a name = "sechilienne" id =
"sechilienne"><b>Séchilienne</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Petit
Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of one street,
magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the valley of the
Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above each other. To
the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from Séchilienne in about 6
hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is reached, whence the ascent lies
through pastures and pine woods to some steep rocks. The track then,
leaving on the right a small tarn, keeps along the base of the rocks to
an abandoned mine, where it runs along the ridge called the Arete de
Brouffier, overlooking the valley of the Combe de Valloire on the right
and the Combe de Gavet on the left. The ridge leads to a small plateau,
usually covered with snow; whence a second ridge leads up to the highest
peak.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of Riouperoux,
in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought down by the
terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated the plain
from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet of Livet
at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its junction with
the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and the
argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de
l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the
Bella Donna.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourg_doisans" id = "bourg_doisans">
<span class = "headnote">Bourg d’Oisans. Ecrins. Road to the
Ecrins.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100.
<i>Inns:</i> France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon
remains at the Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey
here and start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche,
surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000
ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded with
houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to Lac
Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its
dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide,
and commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due
N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of
Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and
valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. farther
is Lake Blanc.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of
which the most important is to the <a name = "ecrins" id =
"ecrins"><b>Ecrin Group</b></a>, by Vosc, 7½ m., St. Christophe
13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La
Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave
the narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to
the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole
valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the
distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier
summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the
<span class = "pagenum">330</span>
<a name = "page330" id = "page330"> </a>
<!-- png 389 -->
prolongation of the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900;
<i>Inn:</i> Paquet, on an elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure
and noble walnut woods, on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly
opposite Venose are the green pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle,
8300 ft. As the tributary valleys do not join the principal valley at
common level, but are considerably higher, a waterfall, often of
great beauty, almost invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams.
In ascending the valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes
narrower, the rounded forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly
left, and, the torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge,
a very short distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation.
A mountain on the right hand has at some remote time crumbled into
fragments and literally filled the valley from side to side with a
colossal heap of ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path
practicable for mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with
excessive commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was
unable to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three
carriages to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge,
harmonising with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the
romantic village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few
houses perched on a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of
the beautiful cascades.
<span class = "headnote float">
St. Christophe.<br>
La Berarde.</span>
Not much farther on, the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of
a rough hill to <a name = "st_christophe" id = "st_christophe"><b>St.
Christophe</b></a>, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just
before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow
cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du
Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages,
commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss
scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing
immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of
rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely
adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, is
comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which
stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the
scenery of the Allée Blanche. <a name = "la_berarde" id =
"la_berarde"><b>La Berarde</b></a>, which is placed in the midst of this
savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a small chapel
distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation ceases just at the
village; a few stunted pines are found still higher up, but there
is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. This excessive
sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of Dauphiné. The village
of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft., that of St. Christophe is
4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character of the scenery is, like that
of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. The unbroken rocky surfaces
deceive the eye to such an extent that it is difficult to realise the
enormous scale of these mountains. To ascertain their height we must
attempt to mount them, and even then the eye has some difficulty to
submit to the testimony of the limbs. The ascent of the Pointe des
Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is extremely dangerous. Mont
<span class = "pagenum">331</span>
<a name = "page331" id = "page331"> </a>
<!-- png 390 -->
Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, but is ascended from <a href
= "#val_louise">Val Louise</a> (see p. 333, and <a href =
"#map304">map p. 304</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Freney. La Grave.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary">
Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.</h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche
flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the side
of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble is
<a name = "le_freney" id = "le_freney"><b>Le Freney</b></a>, 3085 ft.,
pop. 900; <i>Inn:</i> H. Europe, with mines up in the mountains but
of difficult access. It is in these mines that the crystals and the
species of quartz containing gold are found, for which the Dauphiné is
so celebrated among mineralogists.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with a
small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret is
passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a
soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les
Freaux, a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a
precipice of granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from
Grenoble and 24 m. from Briançon is</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "la_grave" id = "la_grave"><b>La Grave</b></a>, 5000 ft.;
<i>Inn:</i> H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope rising from the
road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs containing copper mines,
and opposite, on the other side of the river, the great glacier which
streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080 ft. To the E. of the Meije
is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a smaller glacier. The ridge
called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by numerous
aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the
eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile
apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest or western aiguille must be
made from the northern side. The view of this mountain from the village
of La Grave can hardly be praised too highly; it is one of the very
finest road views in the Alps, and one cannot speak in exaggerated terms
of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices.
The perpendicular cliff, extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the
summit of the Meije, is about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads
through a bleak region and several tunnels to Villard d’Arene,
4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from Briançon, a miserable hamlet,
considerably under the high road, at the foot of the Bec de l’Homme.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Col de Lautaret. Le Casset.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the <a name =
"col_lautaret" id = "col_lautaret"><b>Hospice of the Col de
Lautaret</b></a>, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft.,
where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two diligences
pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it is 11
kilomètres (6⅘ m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.) from
Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of Malaval
and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, 13,081 ft.
above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche descends to
Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. From the Hospice
the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a mine of anthracite
coal not far from the village of Lauzet.
<span class = "pagenum">332</span>
<a name = "page332" id = "page332"> </a>
<!-- png 391 -->
The discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of
this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long and
inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is the
hamlet of <a name = "le_casset" id = "le_casset"><b>Le Casset</b></a>,
at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the entrance to the ravine of
the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great glaciers which spread
themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont Pelvoux. When the snow is
melted the effect of the sun upon them is splendid. 60 m. from
Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Monètier. Briançon.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "le_monetier" id = "le_monetier"><b>Le Monètier de
Briançon</b></a>, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with barley-fields,
pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. Marguerite, 8328 ft.,
which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux group. Horses changed
here. <i>Inn:</i> Alliey; mineral bath establishment, with hot
sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes the
villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and night-cap
manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and 4299 ft.
above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "briancon" id = "briancon"><b>Briançon</b></a>, 4335 ft., pop.
6000. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Paix. Temple Protestant. The Brigantium
of the Romans, and now a fortified town of the first class, with eight
strong fortresses, which guard this important entrance into France from
Italy. The town stands on the steep sides of an eminence rising
vertically from the Durance, here a roaring mountain torrent hemmed in
between the cliffs of the Mont Infernet, with strong forts on all the
salient points up to the very summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this
part the Durance is spanned by a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and
108 ft. above the river, erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On
the right side of the river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and
opposite, on the left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the
largest of the forts. The views from them are very extensive, especially
from the fort Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to
visit the forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building
down the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St.
Catherine, is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded
and prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn
14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 <span class =
"smallroman">P.M.</span>, 1½ hr. allowed for meals. The longitudinal
streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, little better than staircases,
down the centre of each of which runs a stream of water in a marble
gutter, with such an impulse that all manner of garbage thrown into it
quickly disappears. At the foot of Briançon is the fertile valley formed
by the union of the Guisanne with the Durance, surrounded by
carefully-cultivated mountains studded with villages. All the Briançon
coaches start from the Place du Temple, in front of the church. “The
neighbourhood of Briançon abounds in rare plants. Amongst them may be
mentioned Astragalus austriacus and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus
Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium Imperati, Brassica repanda,
Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace
septentrionalis, and Bulbocodium vernum.” —Ball’s <i>Western
Alps</i>.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">333</span>
<a name = "page333" id = "page333"> </a>
<!-- png 392 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Val Louise. Grand Pelvoux.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux" id = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux">The
great excursion from Briançon</a> is the ascent of the Pelvoux group,
whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in
favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road
extends by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a
path ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The <a name =
"val_louise" id = "val_louise"><b>Ville de Val Louise</b></a> lies near
the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the principal branch of the
Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching up to the foot of the
monarch of the group, the <a name = "grand_pelvoux" id =
"grand_pelvoux"><b>Grand Pelvoux</b></a> itself, which, although at no
great distance, cannot be seen from the village on account of the hill
which rises immediately behind. (See <a href =
"#mont_pelvoux">p. 345</a>, and <a href = "#map304">map
p. 304</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Cesanne.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "briancon_to_oulx" id = "briancon_to_oulx"><b>Briançon to
Oulx</b></a>, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a
beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views
of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the
summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, is
the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, 6476
ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it and
10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres
from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost
25 m. from <a href = "#susa">Susa</a> (p. 291). A few
yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the boundary between France and
Italy, and which commemorates in French, Latin, and Italian the opening
of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I., and its restoration or
rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is <a name = "cesanne" id =
"cesanne"><b>Cesanne</b></a>, at the confluence of the Dora with the
Ripa, 4420 ft., or nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian
custom-house. <i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed.
A post-road leads from Cesanne to <a href = "#perosa">Perosa</a>,
28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 ft.,
with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The
diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also <a href =
"#page291">p. 291</a>. From Oulx rail to Turin, <a href =
"#oulx">p. 291</a>.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms a
pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably shortened
on the French side by following the footpath.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "grenoble_to_gap" id = "grenoble_to_gap">Grenoble to Gap</a>
by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes only the length
of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence for Gap.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "grenoble_to_corps" id =
"grenoble_to_corps">
Grenoble to Corps.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road. From
Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the railway
and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. <a href = "#claix">328</a> and
<a href = "#pont_de_claix">345</a>), and thence in another straight line
between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther. Coach from Vizille to La
Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence takes nine horses, and
having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the flanks of Mont Conex in 2
hrs. to the village of <a name = "laffrey" id = "laffrey"><b>La Frey</b>
or <b>Laffrey</b></a>, 2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and
15 from Grenoble, in a cold situation on the top of this pass, about
3000 ft. above the sea; the horses
<span class = "pagenum">334</span>
<a name = "page334" id = "page334"> </a>
<!-- png 393 -->
are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On this plateau,
immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 ft. above the sea,
2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the village of the
Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To the right or
west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite coalmines,
some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The diligence next
passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble,
a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829
ft.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Mure. Corps.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_1"
id = "la_mure_1"><b>La Mure</b></a>, 2860 ft., pop. 3800, the largest
town on the road, with the ancient castle of Beaumont, nail
manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, 3½ m.
distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next village,
is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the edges of
high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the Bonne, which
it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is exactly half-way
between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m. from
Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge of La
Salette, arrives at</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "corps" id = "corps"><b>Corps</b></a>, 39½ m. from Grenoble,
on a plateau 814 ft. above the confluence of the Drac with the Souloise,
or 3156 ft. above the sea. Pop. 1500. <i>Inns:</i> *Poste; Palais; next
each other. Mules for La Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs.
the seat, or 15 frs. the whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and
2750 ft. above it, by a wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It
is better to descend on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very
picturesque, and, like all the journeys among the mountains of the
department of Isère, of great interest to the botanist and geologist.
The inhabitants of these mountains wander in winter to distant parts
selling their plants, bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most
justly famous liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette,
Grenoble, and elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal,
one of the best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of
which the black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Salette. Church of Notre Dame de la Salette.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_salette" id = "la_salette">
LA SALETTE.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now
visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of
Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. <a name =
"la_salette_notre_dame" id = "la_salette_notre_dame">The church</a>,
a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished
marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside
measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached
pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The pulpit
was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three doorways, has
on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, which were very
great in a region of such difficult access, and where winter lasts six
months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. Opposite the façade
are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the gift of a Spaniard,
representing the events of the story. On the south side of the choir
<span class = "pagenum">335</span>
<a name = "page335" id = "page335"> </a>
<!-- png 394 -->
a door opens into the large and spacious building occupied by the nuns,
and on the north side another door opens into a similar building
occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in each is exactly the
same. The pension price, including wine and everything else, is 5½ frs.
per day. Visitors can have a good meat breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½
frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au lait ½ fr., a cup
of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are very obliging. Books
approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in the “magasin” of the
establishment, giving the history of the apparition, from which the
following is extracted:— “On the 19th of September 1846, at 2.30
<span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, was seen by a girl and a boy in
the place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone
shedding tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2
ft. in diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow
forth freely. Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called
the miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat
Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years
old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could
neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such
frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a
few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to
learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children in
the path between the railings indicate the place where they were
standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became
aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in
French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not
submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so
heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and
do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I have
taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have
reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is
that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts cannot
swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are the two
things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She continued a
little longer in French till, observing the children did not understand
her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same strain,
a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of the
Sabbath— ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and
having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout
mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by
the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with the
statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she
disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was
acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day
in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and other
acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August 1867
the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The first
stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary
appeared to the children,
<span class = "pagenum">336</span>
<a name = "page336" id = "page336"> </a>
<!-- png 395 -->
was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, on 25th May 1852, assisted by
Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In
the churches all over France and in many of those in Belgium are
pictures representing N. D. de la Salette addressing the children.
In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette she is appealed to as “the
tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the morning star,” “the refuge
of sinners,” “the queen conceived without sin,” “the healer of
diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm of the irritated Lord
against us is held back,” “thou who hast said, If my people will not
submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of my son,” “thou who
continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy upon us, pray for
us.”</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a shop
at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par Maximin
Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was sent to a
nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that the
pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born near
Saint-Marcellin, Isère.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap,
22½ m. S. (See <a href = "#grenoble_to_gap">p. 333</a>, and
<a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gières. Domene. Goncelin.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">398</span>
<span class = "miles to">78</span>
<a name = "gieres" id = "gieres"><b>GIÈRES</b></a>. At this station
omnibuses await passengers for the baths of Uriage, 4 m. N., and
1358 ft. <i>Hotels:</i> Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien Hôtel; Des Bains; Du
Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable and commodious, and is
pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, about 400 ft. higher than
Grenoble. The water contains common salt, sulphates of magnesia and
soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a deep valley at the junction
of granite and lias, which is, however, concealed for some way by an
immense mass of detritus, through which the spring forces itself. It is
conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous conduit to the establishment,
whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">401</span>
<span class = "miles to">75</span>
<a name = "domene" id = "domene"><b>DOMENE</b></a>, pop. 2000.
<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is generally made the
laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. above the sea-level.
Guides necessary. The first night is generally spent at the village of
Revel. Two days required.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">412</span>
<span class = "miles to">64</span>
<a name = "goncelin" id = "goncelin"><b>GONCELIN</b></a>, pop. 1600.
Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by an excellent road
through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses awaiting
passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits
passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the
right bank of the Isére.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The
<span class = "pagenum">337</span>
<a name = "page337" id = "page337"> </a>
<!-- png 396 -->
three principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½
frs. to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains,
with the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other
end of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place
contiguous to the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½
frs. In a garden of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the
France. The H. Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of
the lias with the primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61°
Fahr., with a great deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially
efficacious in diseases of the throat and the respiratory organs, for
the cure of which the establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus
for inhalation and gargling being both complete and varied.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate of
iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the
road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin du
Monde,” 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable
to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at
the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank and
ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of the way.
At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a toll of 10
sous.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an elevated
point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the Isère. 25
min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the remains of a
castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this a path ascends
through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the hamlet of Crozet.
Descend by sledge, 2 frs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the
mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a
tariff by the authorities of the place.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sept Laux. Pontcharrá.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most
difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of
<a name = "sept_laux" id = "sept_laux"><b>La Ferrière</b></a>, to the Sept
Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level, and the Glacier of Gleyzin,
9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time required to go, 14 hrs. constant
walking, but to the lakes only, about half that time. This series of
lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild gloomy ravine, shut in on all
sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by springs, and are not
accumulations of stagnant water derived from the melting snow. The banks
are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered with snow nearly the
whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake Blanc, is almost always
frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a sluggish frog inhabits
the marshy margins.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">418</span>
<span class = "miles to">58</span>
<a name = "pontcharra" id = "pontcharra"><b>PONTCHARRÁ</b></a> station.
An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of Pontcharrá, pop. 2800,
<i>Inn:</i> Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant.
<span class = "sidetrip">
From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La
<span class = "pagenum">338</span>
<a name = "page338" id = "page338"> </a>
<!-- png 397 -->
Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly
from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
<span class = "miles from">426</span>
<span class = "miles to">50</span>
<a name = "les_marches_2" id = "les_marches_2"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a
straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which stands the church of
Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of the Virgin. Beyond are
some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips from Mt. Granier, 6520
ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where passengers by this
route for Modane and Turin <i>change carriages</i> and join the direct
line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 miles), see from <a href
= "#montmelian_stn">Montmélian</a>, p. 289.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "marseilles_to_grenoble" id =
"marseilles_to_grenoble">
Marseilles to Grenoble,</a></h5>
<p class = "smaller">
190 m. N., by <span class = "smallcaps">Gardanne, Aix, Pertuis, St.
Auban, Veynes,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Clelles</span>.
Fare—first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is
394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see <a href =
"#grenoble">p. 324</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles to">190</span>
<b>MARSEILLES.</b> There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by
Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be
chosen by those who desire to visit the aqueduct of <a class = "paris"
href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> (see p. 77).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gardanne. Pertuis.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">11</span>
<span class = "miles to">179</span>
<a name = "gardanne" id = "gardanne"><b>GARDANNE</b></a>, pop. 3500, on
the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes are important coal-fields.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of
numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line
extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles
and Cannes (<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#carnoules">p. 142</a>), on which the only towns of
interest are Brignoles and St. Maximin.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">18½</span>
<span class = "miles to">171½</span>
<b><span class = "smallcaps">AIX-en-provence</span></b> (see <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#aix_en_provence">p. 78</a>). At Aix
change carriages for Rognac. 5 m. N. from Aix is La Calade station,
where a coach awaits passengers for <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#st_cannat">St. Cannat</a>, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc</a>, 3½ m.
farther (p. 80). 5 m. S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne.
16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, is <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues</a> (see
p. 79).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">38</span>
<span class = "miles to">152</span>
<a name = "pertuis" id = "pertuis"><b>PERTUIS</b></a>, pop. 5800.
<i>Hotels:</i> Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from
the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m.
W., passing <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a>, the station for Apt, and <a class
= "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle</a>, the station for Vaucluse
(see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences
near <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pertuis_2">Pertuis</a>
(p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is the Tour d’Aigues, which was
part of the old fortifications. From Pertuis the country becomes
picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of Mirabeau, pop. 800, with
the castle in which Mirabeau spent his boyhood, and in which his father
was born.</span></p>
<span class = "pagenum">339</span>
<a name = "page339" id = "page339"> </a>
<!-- png 398 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque, pop.
6200 (see pp. <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">166</a>
and <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">168</a>).
4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx village and station, with beds of
lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on
the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is the station and village of
<a name = "lurs" id = "lurs">Lurs</a>, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking
the Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and
a Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Peyruis.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">77½</span>
<span class = "miles to">112½</span>
<a name = "peyruis" id = "peyruis"><b>PEYRUIS</b></a>, pop. 1000;
<i>Inn:</i> Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, at the base of
cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by the action of
water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">80½</span>
<span class = "miles to">109½</span>
<a name = "st_auban" id = "st_auban"><b>ST. AUBAN</b></a>, pop. 250,
junction with line to Digne. (For <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#digne">Digne</a>, see p. 166, and maps <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#map163">pp. 162</a> and <a href =
"#map304">304</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie" id =
"digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie,
Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles</b></a>, 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11
hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La Javie, famous for plums;
pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of the Bléonne with the
Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the Combefère, whence
a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 ft. Thence descend to
Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of gypsum, 19 m. from
Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is commenced the ascent
of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend to Seyne-les-Alpes,
pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and half-way between Digne and
Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the 11th and 12th cents.
18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet, is St.
Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking the Ubaye.
From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see <a href =
"#gap_to_barcelonnette">Gap to Barcelonnette</a>, p. 341.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Colmars. Sisteron.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_draix" id =
"digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St.
Thomas, Colmars, and Allos,</b></a> 55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from
Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, on a confluent of the
Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is <a name = "colmars" id =
"colmars"><b>Colmars</b></a>, pop. 1100, at the foot of Mts. Meunier and
Draye, on the Sence at its junction with the Verdon. Excellent cheese,
called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop.
1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from Barcelonnette. A short way from
Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in one of the wildest and most
sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea,
4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep, containing capital trout, and
surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 ft. high, over which tower bleak
mountains, of which the most lofty is Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake
discharges its surplus water through a subterranean canal 1640 ft. long,
whence it issues under the name of the torrent Chadoulin. From the
village of Allos proceed to Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an
interesting church, and Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary
of the Ubaye. (For <a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, see
p. 341. For <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#grasse_to_digne">Cannes and Grasse to Digne</a>, see
p. 165.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">91</span>
<span class = "miles to">99</span>
<a name = "sisteron" id = "sisteron"><b>SISTERON</b></a>, pop. 5000.
Good resting-place. <i>Hotels:</i> Vassail; Negre; their omnibuses await
passengers at station.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Picturesquely
<span class = "pagenum">340</span>
<a name = "page340" id = "page340"> </a>
<!-- png 399 -->
situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the Durance at its
confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the town are the church
of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part of the fortifications
built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has been very much altered
externally by restoration and repairs. The effect of the graceful
octagonal tower has been destroyed by the square tower adjoining. In the
interior the arches are early pointed, inclining to the stilted form.
The three apsidal terminations are semicircular. The small window at the
end of each is closed. The end of the town farthest from the railway is
picturesque. From the gateway rise perpendicular cliffs of blue
limestone, on the top of which is a fortress of the third class.
Immediately opposite, on the other side of the Durance, are similar
strata heaved up and twisted into an enormous pyramid. A little
beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by the cemetery to a place
where there is a good view of the valleys of the Durance and the Buech.
7 m. N. from Sisteron is <b>Mison</b> station, 2002 ft. above the
sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m. farther, Laragne
station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is Eyguians-Orpier station,
1979 ft.</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Serres. Veynes.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">112½</span>
<span class = "miles to">77½</span>
<a name = "serres" id = "serres"><b>SERRES</b></a>, pop. 1200;
<i>Inns:</i> *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of dirty, steep,
narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff rising from
between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#nyons">Nyons</a>, 41 m. E., p. 51. 8 m. N.
from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">121½</span>
<span class = "miles to">68½</span>
<a name = "veynes" id = "veynes"><b>VEYNES</b></a>, 2614 ft. above the
sea, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H. and Rest, de la Gare;
in town, H. Dousselin.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Junction with rail to <b>Mont Dauphin-Guillestre</b>, 51 m. N.E.
This branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which
traverse the valleys of the Waldenses.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gap. Le Lauzet.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from
Mont Dauphin, is <a name = "gap" id = "gap"><b>Gap</b></a>, on the Luye,
2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Nord; Provence;
France. This, the ancient Civitas Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars,
extensive barracks, long avenues of walnut trees, and a handsome modern
cathedral, built on the site of one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture
is the mausoleum of the Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the
leaders of the Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap,
Guillaume Farel, a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He
died on the 13th Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his
character were dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed
a sonorous and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate
earnestness; yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of
large audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation,
aroused against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "gap_to_barcelonnette" id = "gap_to_barcelonnette"><b>Gap to
Barcelonnette</b></a>, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare,
8 frs.; time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its
confluence with the Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it
ascends by the N. side
<span class = "pagenum">341</span>
<a name = "page341" id = "page341"> </a>
<!-- png 400 -->
of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from
Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the
horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with the
Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and
ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye,
23 m. from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil
is made. The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost
every part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the
picturesque fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from
Gap is <a name = "le_lauzet" id = "le_lauzet"><b>Le Lauzet</b></a>, pop.
1000, <i>Inn:</i> France, surrounded by great mountains, with narrow
gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake abounding
with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the
entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. side
of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of Meolans
occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses to the
right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m. from
Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St.
Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th
cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the
church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side.
Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over the
door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the
presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is a
square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a pattern
to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the
characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally
great to the height of the spire.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Barcelonnette. St. Paul.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "barcelonnette" id = "barcelonnette"><b>Barcelonnette</b></a>,
3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; on the
Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by mountains clothed with
walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present village was built in 1230 on
ground given by Reymond Beranger, in honour of whose ancestors, the
Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the newly-erected town received its name.
The parish church, begun in 1230, was, on account of a conflagration,
nearly rebuilt in the 16th and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the
corner of the “Place” is all that remains of the church of N. D. de
Confort, built in 1290 and destroyed in 1789.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there is
also one to the village of <a name = "st_paul" id = "st_paul"><b>St.
Paul</b></a>, 4730 ft. above the sea, and 13½ m. N.E. from
Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the Maddalena road, the
length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it diverges 6½ m. N.
up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. The wheel-road
continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. above the sea.
From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, 8767 ft., and
the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair inn) and Château
Dauphin and the river Vraita.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Jausiers.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "barcelonnette_to_cuneo" id =
"barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><b>Barcelonnette to Cuneo</b></a> by the Col
della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12
hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road
all the way (see <a href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>).
<span class = "pagenum">342</span>
<a name = "page342" id = "page342"> </a>
<!-- png 401 -->
Guide not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon.
3¾ m. more, <a name = "jausiers" id =
"jausiers"><b>Jausiers</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the
Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The
road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to
a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La
Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of
the Ubaye to <a href = "#st_paul">St. Paul</a> (see p. 341), the
other goes to the Pass of <a name = "la_maddalena" id =
"la_maddalena"><b>La Maddalena</b></a>. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or
14¼ m. from Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, <i>Inns:</i> Alpes;
Italie; 5570 ft., the last French village. 5 m. beyond, or
19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of
the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the sea, between Mt. Mourre
and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S.E. side now
descends 850 ft. by the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura,
to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and
Italian custom-house.
<span class = "headnote float">
Bersezio.</span>
A little distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24
from Barcelonnette, is <a name = "bersezio" id =
"bersezio"><b>Bersezio</b></a>, with an inn situated amidst much fine
wild scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The
Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at
the hamlet of Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio.
8 m. from Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with
the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo,
8422 ft., leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about
25 m. W. from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo,
and 57 from Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to
Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "gap_to_grenoble" id = "gap_to_grenoble"><b>Gap to Grenoble by
Laye, Corps, and La Mure</b></a>, 62 m. Diligence to Vizille, the
remaining 8 m. by rail.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble,
by <a name = "laye" id = "laye"><b>Laye</b></a>, 6½ m. N., where
the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On the summit is a house of
refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, <i>Inn:</i>
H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières,
in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see <a href =
"#grenoble_to_corps">p. 333</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Mure. Chorges.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_2" id =
"la_mure_2"><b>La Mure</b></a>, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. above the
sea-level. <i>Inns:</i> Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs between La
Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large
trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. distant are the
anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is
Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m.
W. by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is
<a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey</a> (see p. 333).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
26¾ m. from Veynes junction is <a name = "chorges" id =
"chorges"><b>Chorges</b></a>, pop. 1900. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la
Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana.
In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around
the town are fragments of Roman
<span class = "pagenum">343</span>
<a name = "page343" id = "page343"> </a>
<!-- png 402 -->
buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of
Chorges, is visited by pilgrims.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Savines. Embrun.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
34¼ m. from Veynes is <a name = "savines" id =
"savines"><b>Savines</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la
Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest
and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all
the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "embrun" id = "embrun"><b>Embrun</b></a>, 3014 ft. above the
sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Thouard; Poste; 8¾ m. S.E. from
Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and
one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in
the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. side of Mont St.
Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands
the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of
Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows
with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat
buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a
flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. side. Above
the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N.
portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions;
the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the
shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal
chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of
the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is
about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide
spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above
each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a
corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their
exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is
quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and
angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date
from the time of Louis XI., who frequently visited this church to pray
to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child
over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the
northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same
size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to
ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse
reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the
animal could proceed no farther.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the
centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun,
with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement,
3¾ m. farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a
bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont Dauphin. Guillestre. Queyras.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
51 m. N.E. from Veynes is <a name = "mont_dauphin" id =
"mont_dauphin"><b>Mont Dauphin</b></a>, an isolated rock of coarse
reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with
<span class = "pagenum">344</span>
<a name = "page344" id = "page344"> </a>
<!-- png 403 -->
the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above
the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to
the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on
the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village,
which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From
the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including
Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of
the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the
village of <a name = "guillestre" id =
"guillestre"><b>Guillestre</b></a>, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and
church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil,
passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to
800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a
cascade. 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile,
are the fort and village of <a name = "queyras" id =
"queyras"><b>Queyras</b></a>, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m.
N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras
Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val <b>d’Arvieux</b>,
reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½ m. below
Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets,
St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at
Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is
performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a
week in each parish” (see <a href = "#page304">p. 304</a>, and
<i>Murray</i>, p. 216).
<span class = "headnote float">
Aiguilles.<br>
Abriés.</span>
A little higher up the left or S. bank of the Guil is the
Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18 m. from
Mont Dauphin is <a name = "aiguilles" id =
"aiguilles"><b>Aiguilles</b></a>, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right
bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. walk from
the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church,
the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a
convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as
headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from <a name = "abries" id =
"abries"><b>Abriés</b></a> on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house,
where France is left.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
For <a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin">Perosa to Mont Dauphin</a>, see
p. 307; <a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin">Torre-Pèllice to Mont
Dauphin</a>, p. 306; <a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin">Saluzzo
to Mont Dauphin</a>, p. 308, and <a href = "#map304">map
p. 304</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo" id =
"mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><b>Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont
Viso</b></a>, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a good road extends
21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil,
5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads
over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte
Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from the Col. 8 m.
beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the
valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on the road to
Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S., to
Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley of the Vraita.
Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m. N.E. from
Sampeyre (see <a href = "#saluzzo">p. 307</a>, and <a href =
"#map304">map p. 304</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont Pelvoux.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is <a name =
"la_bessee" id = "la_bessee"><b>La Bessée</b></a>, 3420 ft. above the
sea, pop. 1000. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste. Here passengers alight
for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
<span class = "pagenum">345</span>
<a name = "page345" id = "page345"> </a>
<!-- png 404 -->
<a name = "val_louise_2" id = "val_louise_2">Val Louise</a>, about 6½ m.
W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see <a href =
"#val_louise">p. 333</a>). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is <a href
= "#briancon">Briançon</a> (see p. 333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée
to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers
and peaks of the <a name = "mont_pelvoux" id = "mont_pelvoux"><b>Mont
Pelvoux</b></a>, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is
visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into
two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des
Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult
pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise
was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people
having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their
children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its
inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the
officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the
valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing
out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire
to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain
in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
valley<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">. </ins>The cavern
has fallen, and is nearly buried in the <i>débris</i>. The present
inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race.”
—<i>Murray</i>, p. 218.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">126</span>
<span class = "miles to">64</span>
<a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>ASPRES</b></a>, pop. 2000, 2493 ft.
above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Ferdinand. Junction with road to <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron</a>, 68 m. W., on E. side
of Rhône (see p. 46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col
de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see
<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#crest_to_aspres">p. 47</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">154½</span>
<span class = "miles to">35½</span>
<a name = "clelles" id = "clelles"><b>CLELLES</b></a>, 2400 ft., pop.
1000. <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of
Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane,
about 7 m. distant towards Die.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">163</span>
<span class = "miles to">27</span>
<a name = "monestier_de_clermont" id =
"monestier_de_clermont"><b>MONESTIER DE CLERMONT</b></a>, pop. 1000.
<i>Inns:</i> Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the
kidneys and stomach.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vif. Vizille.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
<span class = "miles from">177</span>
<span class = "miles to">13</span>
<a name = "vif" id = "vif"><b>VIF</b></a>, pop. 3000. At the foot of a
calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt.
Moucherolle, 7509 ft.</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">181</span>
<span class = "miles to">9</span>
<a name = "vizille_1" id = "vizille_1"><b>VIZILLE</b></a>, pop. 4000.
<i>Inns:</i> Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans,
is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche,
with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored and used as a
manufactory (see <a href = "#page333">p. 333</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">185</span>
<span class = "miles to">5</span>
<a name = "pont_de_claix" id = "pont_de_claix"><b>PONT DE CLAIX</b></a>,
pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see
<a href = "#claix">p. 328</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">190</span>
<b>GRENOBLE.</b> (See <a href = "#grenoble">p. 324</a>.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">346</span>
<a name = "page346" id = "page346"> </a>
<!-- png 405 -->
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_st_etienne" id =
"paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">
Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.</a></h4>
<p class = "center smaller">
See <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">fly-leaf</a>, and Map of the
Rhône and Savoy, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map27">p. 27</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles to">349</span>
<b>PARIS.</b> For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint
Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">220</span>
<span class = "miles to">129</span>
<a name = "st_germain_des_fosses" id = "st_germain_des_fosses"><b>ST.
GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>. All the trains halt here.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "miles from">231</span>
<span class = "miles to">118</span>
<a name = "la_palisse" id = "la_palisse"><b>LA PALISSE</b></a>, pop.
3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the
town was built in the 14th century.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "miles from">235½</span>
<span class = "miles to">113½</span>
<a name = "arfeuilles" id = "arfeuilles"><b>ARFEUILLES</b></a>, pop.
3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th
cent.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">262</span>
<span class = "miles to">87</span>
<a name = "roanne" id = "roanne"><b>ROANNE</b></a>, pop. 20,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built,
manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing
many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy
are—the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins
of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit
Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen,
and the annual value of the produce is £1,120,000. After Roanne, the
line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country
among the Cevennes and their offshoots.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">282</span>
<span class = "miles to">67</span>
<a name = "feurs" id = "feurs"><b>FEURS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the
Loire. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains
several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the
neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre.
Many Roman remains.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">297½</span>
<span class = "miles to">51½</span>
<a name = "st_galmier" id = "st_galmier"><b>SAINT GALMIER</b></a>, pop.
3100, on the Coise. <i>Hotel:</i> Poste. Springs of mineral water of
great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and
not utilised on the spot (see <a href =
"#st_galmier_desc">p. 348</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Etienne.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">312</span>
<span class = "miles to">37</span>
<a name = "st_etienne" id = "st_etienne"><b>SAINT ETIENNE</b></a>, 1770
ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; both
first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and
frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences
start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East
from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice,
a large handsome building.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
summer, was founded by the Romans <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>
56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the
manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It
is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive
coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne,
Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing
the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal
squares or “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is
intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading
northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the
west end, the Post
<span class = "pagenum">347</span>
<a name = "page347" id = "page347"> </a>
<!-- png 406 -->
and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street
called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the
Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto.
Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers
of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the
summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a
gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill,
passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing
some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St.
Etienne.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Etienne: Museums.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the <a name =
"st_etienne_museums" id = "st_etienne_museums"><b>PALAIS DES
ARTS</b></a>, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The
Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections
of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks,
triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room
upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most
striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.” On one
side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the
other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of
plates. In the second storey is the <b>MUSEE DE FABRIQUE</b>. In the
centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls,
under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most
remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply
very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture
representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by
Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the
lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics
from the looms of St. Etienne.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_etienne_manufactures" id =
"st_etienne_manufactures">
St. Etienne:<br>
Manufactures.</a></span>
The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000,
employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which
165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended
for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in
all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields
occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an
average annually £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long
street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the
Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large
establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high
rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private
gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many
as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade
of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes,
and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street,
the Rue de la Badouillière.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">348</span>
<a name = "page348" id = "page348"> </a>
<!-- png 407 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Rochetaillée.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<i>Excursions.</i>—Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with
large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called
the <b>Gouffre d’Enfer</b>. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the
village of <a name = "rochetaillee" id =
"rochetaillee"><b>Rochetaillée</b></a>. This is also the road to take to
ascend Mont Pilat. A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat,
10 m. from St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the
Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two
peaks—the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705
ft.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the <a name = "st_galmier_desc" id =
"st_galmier_desc">St. Galmier</a> station, 1260 ft. above the sea (see
<a href = "#st_galmier">p. 346</a>). An omnibus awaits passengers
for the town, 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station.
It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the
foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for
bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the
surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with
masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From <a href = "#roanne">Roannes</a> (p. <ins class = "correction" title
= "text reads ‘246’">346</ins>), on the St. Galmier branch line, an
omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and
bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux,
a coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the
station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is
supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and
iron.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
St. Germains is the station for <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a>
(p. 358).</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_tarare" id =
"paris_to_lyons_tarare">
Paris to Lyons by Tarare.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles to">318</span>
<b>PARIS.</b> This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne.
For time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes
picturesque after Roanne.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Roanne. Tarare.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">262</span>
<span class = "miles to">56</span>
<b>ROANNE.</b> (See <a href = "#roanne">p. 346</a>.) 5 m. S.E. is
L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop.
7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 ft. above the sea-level, producing
considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth.
3 m. from Amplepuis commences the tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces
the ridge that separates the basin of the Loire from the Rhône. The
temperature of the Rhône basin in winter is rawer and colder than that
of the Loire.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">288</span>
<span class = "miles to">30</span>
<a name = "tarare" id = "tarare"><b>TARARE</b></a>, pop. 15,000.
<i>Hotel:</i> Europe; an uninteresting and unattractive manufacturing
town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep mountains, among which is Mont
Chevrier, one of the highest summits of the Beaujolais range. At the low
end of the town is the
<span class = "pagenum">349</span>
<a name = "page349" id = "page349"> </a>
<!-- png 408 -->
railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the
valley of the Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95
ft., the others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs
are employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,”
a thin gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "miles from">318</span>
<b>LYONS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">p.
29</a>).</p>
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "lyons_to_clermont" id =
"lyons_to_clermont">
Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand,</a></h4>
<p class = "center smaller">
121 m. W. by <span class = "smallcaps">Givors-Canal, St. Etienne,
Montbrison,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Thiers</span>.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montbrison.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône
change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At <a href
= "#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> (p. 346) a long halt is
generally made. A little way up from the station will be found the
steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns
to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons and 64½ m. E. from
Clermont is <a name = "montbrison" id =
"montbrison"><b>Montbrison</b></a> on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. <i>Inn:</i>
H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy
religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these
the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church
of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded
in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206
ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. end
of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV.,”
who founded the church in <span class = "smallroman">MCCXXIII</span>.
Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. <span class =
"smallroman">MCCCLVIII</span>.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montbrison: Salle des Etats.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Fronting the E. end of the church is the <a name =
"montbrison_salle_etats" id = "montbrison_salle_etats"><b>Salle des
Etats</b></a> (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300
by Jean I., Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de
Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed
into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the
chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana
society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft.
wide, and 26¼ ft. high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted
representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every
family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows
are modern
<span class = "pagenum">350</span>
<a name = "page350" id = "page350"> </a>
<!-- png 409 -->
additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
original one.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from
Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is
the station of St. Paul (<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_stations">p. 30</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the
gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train
traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a
viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W.
from Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from
Lyons is</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Thiers. Vertaizon. Billom.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "thiers_2" id = "thiers_2"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,500, at
first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel
dedicated to St. Symphorien (see <a href =
"#thiers">p. 367</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye,
Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a> (see p. 89).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
Clermont-Ferrand.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "courty" id = "courty"><b>Courty.</b></a> Junction with line
to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W., passing Vichy, 21½ m.
N.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is <a name = "vertaizon"
id = "vertaizon"><b>Vertaizon</b></a>, pop. 2200, situated 1¼ m. S.
from the station. Junction with branch line to <a name = "billom" id =
"billom"><b>Billom</b></a>, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. <i>Inns:</i>
Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily situated town among hills crowned
with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th
to 13th cents.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach <a href =
"#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (see p. 369).</p>
<span class = "pagenum">351</span>
<a name = "page351" id = "page351"> </a>
<!-- png 410 -->
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles_clermont" id =
"paris_to_marseilles_clermont">
Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.</a></h4>
<p class = "smaller">
This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and
to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">pp. 1</a> and <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">27</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles to">530</span>
<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à
Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first
stations passed are <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy</a> (p. 2), <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#melun">Melun</a> (p. 2), and <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau</a> (p. 3). At Moret,
42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes
separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret</a>, see p. 10.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">73</span>
<span class = "miles to">457</span>
<a name = "montargis" id = "montargis"><b>MONTARGIS</b></a>, pop.
10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; France.
The principal street leads directly from the station to the Hôtel de la
Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about the old castle
are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This castle, rebuilt by
Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants de France,”
became private property in 1809. A house has been built within the
circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway still
stands.</p>
<p>The parish church is of different epochs—the nave and the
aisles belong to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps
higher, to the 16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from
which the groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.</p>
<p>The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
Paris and the south of France.</p>
<p>10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny
was born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst
of the hereditary domain of the family.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">96</span>
<span class = "miles to">434</span>
<a name = "gien" id = "gien"><b>GIEN</b></a>, pop. 7600. <i>Inns:</i>
Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and an important railway
junction. On the hill rising from the town is the church of St. Pierre,
flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding an admirable view.
Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in 1494 by Anne
de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the Préfecture.
Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38 m.
N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s
<i>Normandy</i>).</p>
<span class = "pagenum">352</span>
<a name = "page352" id = "page352"> </a>
<!-- png 411 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Briare. Cosne.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">102½</span>
<span class = "miles to">427½</span>
<a name = "briare" id = "briare"><b>BRIARE</b></a>, pop. 5200.
<i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the Loire,
where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther S.
by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois;
omnibus awaits passengers.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">121</span>
<span class = "miles to">409</span>
<a name = "cosne" id = "cosne"><b>COSNE</b></a>, pop. 7000. <i>Inns</i>:
Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of
considerable importance, and still retaining parts of its old
fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its junction with
the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of which the portal
and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. 6½ m. farther
S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. <i>Inn:</i> Pointe du
Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the sea. In the
neighbourhood are important quarries.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">138</span>
<span class = "miles to">392</span>
<a name = "pouilly_sur_loire" id =
"pouilly_sur_loire"><b>POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE</b></a>, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i>
Écu. The surrounding vineyards produce a famous white wine, with a
peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in the second year, and deteriorates
after the 15th.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">141</span>
<span class = "miles to">389</span>
<a name = "la_charite" id = "la_charite"><b>LA CHARITÉ</b></a>, built on
a hill sloping down from the railway to the Loire, crossed by both a
stone and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i> Poste et G. Monarque;
Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of its
fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast
narthex, the choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This
church belonged to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to
the town its name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the
Visitandines (Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of
St. François de Sales.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pougues les Eaux. Fourchambault.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">150</span>
<span class = "miles to">380</span>
<a name = "pougues_les_eaux" id = "pougues_les_eaux"><b>POUGUES LES
EAUX</b></a>, pop. 1400. <i>Hotels:</i> Near the station, the H. du
Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement,
and opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a
quiet place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
carbonic acid gas are employed.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">353</span>
<a name = "page353" id = "page353"> </a>
<!-- png 412 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">154</span>
<span class = "miles to">376</span>
<a name = "fourchambault" id = "fourchambault"><b>FOURCHAMBAULT</b></a>,
pop. 6500. <i>Inns:</i> H. Bourges at station; in town,
H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks,
employing above 5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du
Carrousel were cast here. Omnibus at station.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nevers.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">158</span>
<span class = "miles to">372</span>
<a name = "nevers" id = "nevers"><b>NEVERS</b></a>, pop. 20,400.
<i>Hotels:</i> at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du Chemin de
Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short distance
N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is the
nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to
which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews with
the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a lingering
illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present pope had
not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio IX.
entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s <i>South France</i>, West
Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:— “Ici
repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à
Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En
religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des
Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35<sup>e</sup> année de
son age et la 12<sup>me</sup> de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le
lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.”</p>
<p>Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat
at <a href = "#romagnat">Gergovia</a> (p. 372) the inhabitants
plundered his camp and massacred the soldiers. Of the old fortifications
there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the
11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th
cent.; and the Porte du Croux, a square tower of the 12th cent.,
but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an antiquarian museum. At the
entrance into the town by the Paris road is a triumphal arch, erected in
1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the
French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch forces under the Duke of
Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a hill rising from the Loire
in the midst of a flat country abounding with iron, giving employment to
important ironworks. In the most elevated part is the Grande Place, with
the <b>Palais de Justice</b>, formerly the Palais Ducal, a stately
edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, but altered
and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his successors, belonging to the
families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in the form of a parallelogram,
flanked with four towers, each containing
<span class = "pagenum">354</span>
<a name = "page354" id = "page354"> </a>
<!-- png 413 -->
a staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,”
ornamented with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history
of the house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old
Palais de Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the
Palais de Justice is a fountain by Lequesne.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "nevers_faience" id =
"nevers_faience">
Nevers: Faïence.</a></span>
In the Hôtel de Ville are the Library, the Picture Gallery, and an
interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers
for eight centuries. Faïence is the French term for all descriptions of
glazed earthenware, and corresponds nearly to the English word
“crockery.” The manufacture of majolica or enamelled pottery was
introduced into France by Catherine de Médicis and her kinsman Louis
Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta of Clèves in 1565, became Duke
of Nevers. There are still important pottery works in the town.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nevers: Cassini.</span></p>
<p>Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
astronomer <a name = "nevers_cassini" id = "nevers_cassini">Cassini</a>
while engaged in the triangulation of France.</p>
<p>The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père
was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.</p>
<p>32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers
for the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is
hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map1">map, p. 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Varzy. Clamecy.</span></p>
<p>Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line
between Paris and Turin (see <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#la_roche">p. 14</a>). On this branch line, 8¾ m.
N. from Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the
important ironworks called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards
of 1300 men. 24¼ m. farther by the same line is <a name = "varzy"
id = "varzy"><b>Varzy</b></a>, pop. 2890; <i>Inn:</i> H. de la
Poste; with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents.,
surmounted by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant
triforium and a beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of
St. Eugenie. 44 m. S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers
is <a name = "clamecy" id = "clamecy"><b>Clamecy</b></a>, pop. 5400 (<a
class = "paris" href = "paris.html#clamecy_2">p. 15</a>);
<i>Inns:</i> Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne
with the Beuvron. On
<span class = "pagenum">355</span>
<a name = "page355" id = "page355"> </a>
<!-- png 414 -->
the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of Jean Rouvet,
the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from the forests is
floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of St. Martin, 12th
to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by Simart, a handsome
organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos on the high altar.
Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of the Dukes of
Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the prison occupy
one large building.</p>
<p>22 m. N. from Clamecy is <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#cravant">Cravant</a> (p. 14), an important railway junction.
Junction also at Nevers with line to <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#chagny">Chagny</a>, 178 m. E. (see p. 24). Branch
to Le Creusot and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun</a>
(see p. 24).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Saincaize. Moulins.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">154</span>
<a name = "saincaize" id = "saincaize"><b>SAINCAIZE</b></a>, 600 ft.
above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. (See Black’s
<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">195</span>
<span class = "miles to">335</span>
<a name = "moulins" id = "moulins"><b>MOULINS</b></a>, pop. 22,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer; in. the town,
Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along
the banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13
arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral
of Notre Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The
façade, over which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with
colonnettes of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned
with statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration
of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a
prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is
also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the
Palais de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier,
Renaudan and Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of
Henri IV., and one of the bravest marshals of France. He had the
misfortune to draw upon himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the
displeasure of Louis XIII., which
<span class = "pagenum">356</span>
<a name = "page356" id = "page356"> </a>
<!-- png 415 -->
led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the 30th October
1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria Orsini,
caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to the
convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the finest
Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture and the
duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the public
library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th cent,
called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving statues, is
mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "duke_berwick" id = "duke_berwick">
<span class = "headnote">Duke of Berwick. Sterne’s Maria.</span></a></p>
<p>Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed
some time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his <i>History of the
Rebellion</i>, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died
on the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James,
Duke of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James
Duke of York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister
of the great Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of
August 1670, and died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the
works of Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in
Marshal Berwick I have seen what they are.” <a name =
"sterne_maria" id = "sterne_maria">By the side</a> of the Paris road,
under a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria,
with her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
melancholy. (See Sterne’s <i>Sentimental Journey</i>, “Maria.”)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Souvigny.</span></p>
<p>9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is <a name = "souvigny" id =
"souvigny"><b>Souvigny</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Hotel:</i> Croix d’Or. At
the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of
Louis II., Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is
that of Duc Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels
are enclosed in a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the
left of the principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of
the Zodiac sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of
the street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of
humble rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to
Bourbon l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de
l’Écu). It stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow
the traveller to cast a rapid glance over this
<span class = "pagenum">357</span>
<a name = "page357" id = "page357"> </a>
<!-- png 416 -->
pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and Auvergne architecture of the 11th
cent. (See <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
p. 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourbon-l’Archambault Baths.</span></p>
<p><a name = "bourbon_larchambault" id =
"bourbon_larchambault"><b>Bourbon-l’Archambault</b></a>, pop. 4500.
<i>Hotels:</i> Close to the bathing establishment, the Hôtel Montespan,
on the site of the house which used to be occupied by Madame de
Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. distant the Hôtel de France. On
a hill at the northern side of this ancient town are the ruins of the
once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis I. in
1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc Pierre II. Four massive
towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the
twenty-four which it had originally.
<span class = "sidetrip">
On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the
centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides
supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and
domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested,
slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is
free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime,
magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is
eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for
rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing
establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source
de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of
soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate
of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly
laxative.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_pardoux" id = "st_pardoux">
St. Pardoux Spring.</a></span>
9½ m. S. from Bourbon is <b>St. Pardoux</b>, in a wooded and hilly
country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a
spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free
carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and
soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is
delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so
much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly
diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre
bottles at Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the
height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her
health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast
off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is
Commentry (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
p. 1</a>).</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station
for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin;
and 41½ m. E., <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a> (see p. 27, and
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, p. 1</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "dompierre_sur_bebre" id =
"dompierre_sur_bebre"><b>Dompierre-sur-Bebre</b></a>, pop. 2230.
<i>Inns:</i> Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this
neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the
next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds,
founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent., and now an agricultural
school.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">358</span>
<a name = "page358" id = "page358"> </a>
<!-- png 417 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gilly.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "gilly" id = "gilly"><b>Gilly</b></a>, station for <a name =
"bourbon_lancy" id = "bourbon_lancy"><b>Bourbon-Lancy</b></a>, pop.
3300, 8¾ m. N. by the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station,
fare 1½ fr. <i>Inn:</i>: H. Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for
drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old
houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the
valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of <a name = "st_leger"
id = "st_leger"><b>St. Leger</b></a>, with an excellent small <b>Bathing
Establishment</b>, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132°
Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and
magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is
the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and
other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and
cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of
rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished
with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water
to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a
swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the
mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still
carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At
intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the
bed of the outlet.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. and
Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their
memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
Madame in silver is in the hospital. <i>Inns:</i> Opposite the
establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes,
pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½
frs.; for a lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge
for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M.
Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of
considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several
important cities are within a few hours by rail.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. <i>Inn:</i>
H. de Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal
mines. 6 m. farther is <a name = "digoin" id =
"digoin"><b>Digoin</b></a>, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in
the town; at the station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth
cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Germain-des-Fossés.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">220</span>
<span class = "miles to">310</span>
<a name = "st_germain_fosses" id = "st_germain_fosses"><b>ST.
GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G.
H. du Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of
the station is the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix.
7 m. S. from St. Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is</p>
<span class = "pagenum">359</span>
<a name = "page359" id = "page359"> </a>
<!-- png 419 -->
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vichy" id = "vichy">
VICHY</a></h5>
<p>on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris.
<i>Hotels:</i> The largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the
most elegantly furnished are:—The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.;
the H. Parc, 12 to 20 frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun,
12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.</p>
<!-- png 418 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 359</span>
<a name = "map359" id = "map359" href = "images/map359.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map359thumb.png" width = "469" height = "499"
alt = "plan of Vichy" title = "VICHY"></a>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vichy_hotels" id = "vichy_hotels">
<span class = "headnote">Vichy: Hotels and their Charges.</span></a></p>
<p>The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
furniture is not so costly.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the
Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the
G. H. Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel,
Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; and H. de la Restauration. Almost
adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs.,
a smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first
three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. per day. The above
prices include everything except the charge of 1 fr. for candles at
the end of the stay.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille,
is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement,
the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs.;
and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more
handsome house.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National,
*H. d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally
full.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally
by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise
the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Place Rosalie are the <b>Source de l’Hôpital</b> and the Banque
de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of
houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the
church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½
to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.;
H. Fénélon; H. du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan
same price.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open
all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse;
H. Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½
frs.; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the
year—all between the railway station and the Etablissement.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel
Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de
Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near
<span class = "pagenum">360</span>
<a name = "page360" id = "page360"> </a>
<!-- png 420 -->
the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to
9 frs. and the H. Palais-Royal.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are
let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service.
Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread,
and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame
resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before
deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de
Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable
without being expensive.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding
the different doctors can be had.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms
a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided
over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. per
day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best
situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end
of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th
and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have
been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as
well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In
1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and
fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that
remains is the great clock-tower or belfry.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vichy: Mineral Water Establishment.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
<a name = "vichy_water" id = "vichy_water"><b>Mineral Water
Establishment</b></a>, composed of two large buildings—1st, The
“Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths;
a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100
cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on
the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the
ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath
costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is
allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In
front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is
the <i>office</i> for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the
sale of the bath tickets.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 c.
each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality
of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The
baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs.
The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
<span class = "pagenum">361</span>
<a name = "page361" id = "page361"> </a>
<!-- png 421 -->
shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
in a single day. They commence at 3.30 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span> and continue till 5 <span class =
"smallroman">P.M.</span>, but at one part of the season till even later.
But it must always be remembered that the external application of the
water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit
Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the
course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October.
The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally
the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from
3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day,
and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine
and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of
the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vichy: Casino. The Vichy Springs.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the <a name = "vichy_casino"
id = "vichy_casino"><b>Casino</b></a>, a handsome
comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the
building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for
800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading,
billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance
ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every morning,
a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is
attached to the Casino.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_springs" id = "vichy_springs"><b>The Vichy
Springs.</b></a>—The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best
with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities
which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum
quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz.
The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., taken at different times
throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water
may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are
filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold
graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts.
30 grammes equal 1 oz.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>The Springs and their peculiarities.</b>—Under the vestibule of
the principal establishment are three important springs—the Grande
Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see <a href =
"#map359">plan</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vichy: Grande-Grille, Chomel, Mesdames.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_grandegrille" id = "vichy_grandegrille"><b>The
Grande-Grille</b></a>, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
<span class = "pagenum">362</span>
<a name = "page362" id = "page362"> </a>
<!-- png 422 -->
with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the
viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
gravel.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The <a name = "vichy_chomel" id =
"vichy_chomel"><b>Puits-Chomel</b></a>, 113° Fahr. The water of this
spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very
valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its
irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters
it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of
digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can
in many cases profitably replace the other springs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "mesdames" id = "mesdames"><b>Mesdames</b></a>, 61° Fahr.,
highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and
in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has
been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy
of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his
usual strength.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113°
Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
supplying the baths.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vichy: Prunelle, Parc, Hôpital, Celestins.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
opposite the military hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_prunelle" id =
"vichy_prunelle"><b>Source Prunelle</b></a>, a cold spring,
recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
A little farther E. is the <b>Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.</b>,
principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the <a name = "vichy_parc" id =
"vichy_parc"><b>Source du Parc, 71° Fahr.</b></a>, recommended for
sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the
intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic
irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the Casino, in front of the town
hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_hopital" id =
"vichy_hopital"><b>Source de l’Hôpital</b></a> or Rosalie, 89° Fahr.,
resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is
recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs,
dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is
particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are
deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian
tumours and other diseases of females.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
important springs, the <a name = "vichy_celestins" id =
"vichy_celestins"><b>Sources des Celestins</b></a>, 54° and 58° Fahr.,
of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the
urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to
digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either
the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of
the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just
beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des
Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77°
Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a stimulating
<span class = "pagenum">363</span>
<a name = "page363" id = "page363"> </a>
<!-- png 423 -->
action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and
is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder,
attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being
cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy
waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of
the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in
others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other
cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille
would be preferable.” —<i>Dr. E. Lee.</i></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Source Hauterive. Influence of Vichy Water.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the <a name =
"vichy_hauterive" id = "vichy_hauterive"><b>Source Hauterive</b></a>,
57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities
it resembles the Celestins.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_water_influence" id = "vichy_water_influence">The
principal use</a> of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration
or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often
connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in
enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis.
Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the
chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and
for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period
of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths
of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be
distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it
can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the
digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the
abnormally acid condition of the blood.” —<i>Madden’s Health
Resorts.</i> “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however,
a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of
either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute
or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of
attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the
last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as
much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis.”
—<i>Dr. Daumas.</i> “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy
course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and
assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone
of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more
rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more
freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present,
ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and
therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the
colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind.” —<i>Dr.
P. James.</i></p>
<span class = "pagenum">364</span>
<a name = "page364" id = "page364"> </a>
<!-- png 424 -->
<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "vichy_chemical" id =
"vichy_chemical">
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS of the Principal Springs.</a></h5>
<table class = "smaller">
<tr>
<td>
GG = Grande Grille.<br>
Ch = Chomel.<br>
Md = <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Mesdammes’">Mesdames</ins>.<br>
L = Lucas.
</td>
<td class = "leftline">
P = Park.<br>
H = Hopital.<br>
Ce = Célestins.<br>
Hr = Hauterive.
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table class = "grid">
<tr>
<td class = "outline center" colspan = "3" rowspan = "2">
<br>
Acids and Bases contained in each litre.<br>
</td>
<td class = "outline center" colspan = "8">NAMES OF THE SPRINGS.<br>
</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "outline">
<!-- <td></td> -->
<td>GG</td>
<td>Ch</td>
<td>Md</td>
<td>L</td>
<td>P</td>
<td>H</td>
<td>Ce</td>
<td>Hr</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Carbonic Acid</td>
<td class = "number">4.418</td>
<td class = "number">4.429</td>
<td class = "number">5.029</td>
<td class = "number">5.348</td>
<td class = "number">5.071</td>
<td class = "number">4.719</td>
<td class = "number">4.705</td>
<td class = "number">5.640</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Sulphuric „</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
<td class = "number">.141</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
<td class = "number">.177</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
<td class = "number">.164</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Phosphoric „</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.038</td>
<td class = "center">traces</td>
<td class = "number">.038</td>
<td class = "number">.076</td>
<td class = "number">.025</td>
<td class = "number">.050</td>
<td class = "number">.625</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Arsenic „</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
<td class = "number">.001</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Hydrochloric Acid</td>
<td class = "number">.332</td>
<td class = "number">.334</td>
<td class = "number">.222</td>
<td class = "number">.324</td>
<td class = "number">.344</td>
<td class = "number">.324</td>
<td class = "number">.234</td>
<td class = "number">.334</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Silica</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.032</td>
<td class = "number">.050</td>
<td class = "number">.055</td>
<td class = "number">.050</td>
<td class = "number">.060</td>
<td class = "number">.071</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Protoxide of Iron</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.012</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.008</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Lime</td>
<td class = "number">.169</td>
<td class = "number">.169</td>
<td class = "number">.235</td>
<td class = "number">.212</td>
<td class = "number">.239</td>
<td class = "number">.222</td>
<td class = "number">.180</td>
<td class = "number">.168</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Strontia</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.008</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Magnesia</td>
<td class = "number">.097</td>
<td class = "number">.108</td>
<td class = "number">.134</td>
<td class = "number">.088</td>
<td class = "number">.068</td>
<td class = "number">.064</td>
<td class = "number">.105</td>
<td class = "number">.160</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Potash</td>
<td class = "number">.182</td>
<td class = "number">.192</td>
<td class = "number">.098</td>
<td class = "number">.146</td>
<td class = "number">.151</td>
<td class = "number">.228</td>
<td class = "number">.163</td>
<td class = "number">.098</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Soda</td>
<td class = "number">2.488</td>
<td class = "number">2.536</td>
<td class = "number">1.957</td>
<td class = "number">2.501</td>
<td class = "number">2.500</td>
<td class = "number">2.500</td>
<td class = "number">2.560</td>
<td class = "number">2.368</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "toppad">
<td class = "center" colspan = "3">
<span class = "smallcaps">
Totals</span></td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.997</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.043</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.866</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.877</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.687</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.302</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.327</td>
<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">9.039</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "leftline">
<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td>
<td><span class = "invisible">1.2345</span></td>
<td class = "rightline">
<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "center bottomline" colspan = "3">
Saline ingredients<br>
in each litre.</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "topline sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Free Carbonic Acid</td>
<td class = "number">.908</td>
<td class = "number">.768</td>
<td class = "number">1.908</td>
<td class = "number">1.751</td>
<td class = "number">1.555</td>
<td class = "number">1.067</td>
<td class = "number">1.049</td>
<td class = "number">2.183</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Bicarb. of Soda</td>
<td class = "number">4.883</td>
<td class = "number">5.091</td>
<td class = "number">4.016</td>
<td class = "number">5.004</td>
<td class = "number">4.857</td>
<td class = "number">5.029</td>
<td class = "number">5.103</td>
<td class = "number">4.687</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Potash</td>
<td class = "number">.352</td>
<td class = "number">.371</td>
<td class = "number">.185</td>
<td class = "number">.282</td>
<td class = "number">.292</td>
<td class = "number">.440</td>
<td class = "number">.315</td>
<td class = "number">.189</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „
</span>Magnesia</td>
<td class = "number">.303</td>
<td class = "number">.338</td>
<td class = "number">.429</td>
<td class = "number">.275</td>
<td class = "number">.213</td>
<td class = "number">.200</td>
<td class = "number">.328</td>
<td class = "number">.501</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „
</span>Strontia</td>
<td class = "number">.303</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.005</td>
<td class = "number">.005</td>
<td class = "number">.005</td>
<td class = "number">.005</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Lime</td>
<td class = "number">.434</td>
<td class = "number">.427</td>
<td class = "number">.604</td>
<td class = "number">.545</td>
<td class = "number">.614</td>
<td class = "number">.570</td>
<td class = "number">.462</td>
<td class = "number">.432</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Protox. of
Iron</p></td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.026</td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.004</td>
<td class = "number">.017</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of Soda</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
<td class = "number">.250</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
<td class = "number">.314</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
<td class = "number">.291</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Phosphate</td>
<td class = "number">.130</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "center">traces</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.140</td>
<td class = "number">.046</td>
<td class = "number">.091</td>
<td class = "number">.046</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Arseniate</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.003</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
<td class = "number">.002</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><p>Chloride of Sodium</p></td>
<td class = "number">.534</td>
<td class = "number">.534</td>
<td class = "number">.355</td>
<td class = "number">.518</td>
<td class = "number">.550</td>
<td class = "number">.518</td>
<td class = "number">.534</td>
<td class = "number">.534</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Silica</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.070</td>
<td class = "number">.032</td>
<td class = "number">.050</td>
<td class = "number">.055</td>
<td class = "number">.050</td>
<td class = "number">.060</td>
<td class = "number">.071</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline toppad">
<td class = "center" colspan = "3">
<span class = "smallcaps">
Totals</span></td>
<td class = "number outline">7.914</td>
<td class = "number outline">7.959</td>
<td class = "number outline">7.811</td>
<td class = "number outline">8.797</td>
<td class = "number outline">8.601</td>
<td class = "number outline">8.222</td>
<td class = "number outline">8.244</td>
<td class = "number outline">8.956</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p class = "smaller">
The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
slightly from the Célestins.</p>
<p>In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vichy: Drives.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vichy_drives" id = "vichy_drives">
Excursions.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_cabs" id = "vichy_cabs"><b>CAB FARES.</b></a>—The
course within the town from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> to
12 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> with 1 horse, 1½ fr.; 2
horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3 frs.,
and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.; the
day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the
following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day,
25 frs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Art. 17—The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is
always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the
entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">365</span>
<a name = "page365" id = "page365"> </a>
<!-- png 425 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
Art. 18.—The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse,
7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and
back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux,
and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse,
8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.;
2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16
frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2
horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse,
18 frs.; 2 horses, 24 frs.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Cusset.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "cusset" id = "cusset"><b>Cusset</b></a>, pop. 6200, on the
Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. <i>Inn:</i> H. du Centre, in the
Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into
the town is the <b>Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie</b>, a neat
building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with
turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold.
The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only
1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of
Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take
the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross,
but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the
extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a
miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest
part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms.
Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and
flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the
Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle
said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1 fr.
each.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "montagneverte grivats">
<span class = "headnote">Montagne-Verte. Grivats.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good
view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the
neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_to_busset" id = "vichy_to_busset"><b>Vichy to
Busset</b></a> by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return
by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the
Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is <a name = "grivats" id
= "grivats"><b>Grivats</b></a>, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles
de Vichy, called also Grivats, a variegated cotton stuff used for
gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½
fr. the mètre (1 ⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at
Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all
made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in
Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de
l’Hôpital.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">366</span>
<a name = "page366" id = "page366"> </a>
<!-- png 426 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches
the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. from
Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate
quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The
favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade
du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are
very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of
Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Busset. Randan.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this
road. <a name = "busset" id = "busset"><b>Busset</b></a> is a poor
village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset,
built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid
view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the
Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy,
5 m. N.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the
village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins
of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the
Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required
from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_to_randan" id = "vichy_to_randan"><b>Vichy to
Randan.</b></a>—Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>; arrives at <a name = "randan" id
= "randan"><b>Randan</b></a> at 1 <span class =
"smallroman">P.M.</span>; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by
5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on
Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by Maulmont
costs 3½ frs.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vesse-Intermittent-Spring.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
hand a small house with the sign <a name = "vesse_spring" id =
"vesse_spring"><span class = "smallcaps">Source
Intermittente</span></a>. In the garden is the very interesting
intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it
rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface.
During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue,
from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the
stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois
Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame
Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little
chapel, and a large kitchen (see <a href = "#page368">p. 368</a>).
From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat
of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the
site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier
is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey
may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the
river.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vichy_to_thiers" id = "vichy_to_thiers"><b>Vichy to
Thiers</b></a> by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from
Vichy are the village of <a name = "st_yorre" id = "st_yorre"><b>St.
Yorre</b></a> and the Larbaud mineral
<span class = "pagenum">367</span>
<a name = "page367" id = "page367"> </a>
<!-- png 427 -->
water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The
water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon,
5 m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the
station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The
broad road opposite the station leads to <a name = "ris" id =
"ris"><b>Ris</b></a> (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a
large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street.
The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and
semicircular apse.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
For <a name = "chateldon" id = "chateldon"><b>Chateldon</b></a>, 3¼ m.
S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to
second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated
in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered
with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin,
pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but
not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at
the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Maringues</b> is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy
de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Thiers.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
<a name = "thiers" id = "thiers"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,230.
<i>Inns:</i> *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on
almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from
Clermont, passing through a mountainous country.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.”
At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture
of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants.
The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of
the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the
manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt.
Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th
cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel
a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride.
The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th
cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest,
built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second
altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent.,
representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is
modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a
pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent
butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but
the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour.
The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of
<span class = "pagenum">368</span>
<a name = "page368" id = "page368"> </a>
<!-- png 428 -->
Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the
country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line
winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring
torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the
course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is
the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine
Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch
financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The
castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially
restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is
<b>Aigueperse</b>, pop. 2600. <i>Inn:</i> St. Louis. A coach runs
between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy
and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of
Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant
afternoon drive.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the
Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most
imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the
Bèbre, pop. 2830; <i>Inn:</i> H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th
cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see <a href =
"#la_palisse">p. 346</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">224</span>
<a name = "st_remi_en_rollat" id =
"st_remi_en_rollat"><b>SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT</b></a>, 867 ft. above the
sea.<br>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gannat. Aigueperse.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">235½</span>
<span class = "miles to">294½</span>
<a name = "gannat" id = "gannat"><b>GANNAT</b></a>, pop. 6000.
<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on the
Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St.
Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s <i>Normandy, Brittany, and
Touraine</i>.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">242</span>
<span class = "miles to">288</span>
<a name = "aigueperse" id = "aigueperse"><b>AIGUEPERSE</b></a>, pop.
2600. <i>Hotels:</i> St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the
Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of
the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station goes to
Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle
of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in
<span class = "pagenum">369</span>
<a name = "page369" id = "page369"> </a>
<!-- png 429 -->
1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest
of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the
Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Riom.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">253</span>
<span class = "miles to">277</span>
<a name = "riom" id = "riom"><b>RIOM</b></a>, 1105 ft. above the sea,
pop. 11,000. <i>Inns:</i> H. Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences
to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; and to
Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St.
Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier
having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the
same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St.
Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th
and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is
the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span>, are the mineral baths of <a name =
"chateauneuf" id = "chateauneuf"><b>Châteauneuf</b></a>, pop. 1000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the
fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of
the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous
diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon,
most picturesquely situated among mountains. <i>Hotels:</i> Bains;
Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every
accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels,
gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100°
Fahr.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is <a name = "volvic_desc" id =
"volvic_desc">Volvic</a>, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church,
the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from
the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see <a href =
"#volvic">p. 377</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Clermont-Ferrand.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">260½</span>
<span class = "miles to">269½</span>
<a name = "clermont_ferrand" id =
"clermont_ferrand"><b>CLERMONT-FERRAND</b></a>, 1335 ft. above the sea,
pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the
principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude,
while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station.
<i>Hotels:</i> in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for
commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France.
All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic
Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good house. Among
the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
Voyageurs.
<span class = "pagenum">370</span>
<a name = "page370" id = "page370"> </a>
<!-- png 430 -->
Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and
Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the <a href =
"#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome</a> (see page 372). In the “Place” are a
large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for
excursions.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>The <a name = "clermont_post" id = "clermont_post">general post
office</a> is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the
cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a
charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a
bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue
is the Temple Protestant, service 1 <span class =
"smallroman">P.M.</span> The first narrow street beyond the post office
leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.</p>
<p>Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the
moist and crystalline (glacé) state.</p>
<p>The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the <a name =
"clermont_cathedral" id = "clermont_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>,
founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt
and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round
belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are
twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled
piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and
immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window
resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir
contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive
and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows
of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete,
having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the
apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the
rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock,
with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th
cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is
a miracle-working image of Mary and Child.</p>
<p>The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
born.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port.</span></p>
<p>The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains.
<span class = "pagenum">371</span>
<a name = "page371" id = "page371"> </a>
<!-- png 431 -->
The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to <a name =
"clermont_notre_dame" id = "clermont_notre_dame"><b>Notre Dame du
Port</b></a>, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored
in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept.
The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental
friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns
in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal
tower.</p>
<p>In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round
the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their
capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.</p>
<p>Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
Mary.</p>
<p>It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II.
and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake
the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an
immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of
God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits
of the Crusaders.</p>
<p>The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide
Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens.</span></p>
<p>Behind the Academy are the <a name = "clermont_botanic" id =
"clermont_botanic"><b>Botanic Gardens</b></a>, in which a considerable
part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit
trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a
small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu.
<span class = "pagenum">372</span>
<a name = "page372" id = "page372"> </a>
<!-- png 432 -->
Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and
flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Romagnat.</span></p>
<p>3¾ m. S. from Clermont is <a name = "romagnat" id =
"romagnat"><b>Romagnat</b></a>, pop. 2000, at the foot of
M. Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft.,
the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully
defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar,
whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>,
p. 19.)</p>
<p>Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;
or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
<b>Baraque</b>, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.</p>
<p>The <a name = "puy_de_dome" id = "puy_de_dome"><b>Puy-de-Dome</b></a>
is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered
with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock
cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the
variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is
grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with
flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which
the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect
craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la
Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with
the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins
of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman
temple to Mercury.</p>
<p>For <a href = "#clermont_to_brive">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</a> by
Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p. 376. Junction at Clermont
with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers),
Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see <a href =
"#lyons_to_clermont">p. 349</a>).</p>
<p>From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the
Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are
very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le
Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.;
272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station
is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining
hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Issoire.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">282½</span>
<span class = "miles to">247½</span>
<a name = "issoire" id = "issoire"><b>ISSOIRE</b></a>, pop. 6400, and
1200 ft. above the sea-level. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Pezissat; opposite
each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The
principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting
specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
<span class = "pagenum">373</span>
<a name = "page373" id = "page373"> </a>
<!-- png 433 -->
exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of
differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
altar.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Breuil. Ardes.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">287¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">242¼</span>
<a name = "le_breuil" id = "le_breuil"><b>LE BREUIL</b></a>, 1287 ft.,
pop. 1000. Opposite station, <i>Inn:</i> H. Beranger. Coaches await
passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W.,
and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly
and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain,
a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
<span class = "sidetrip">
2½ m. farther is <a name = "ardes" id = "ardes"><b>Ardes</b></a>;
<i>Inns:</i> Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze.
In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored
and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and
Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open
book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great
basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical
rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot
of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road,
contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below
are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed
among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic
formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière,
perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way
beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff
resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About
4½ m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed
by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest
and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About
5 m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of
St. Pesade.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral
waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
Between Brassal, <i>Inn:</i> Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft.
above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
clay.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arvant. Brioude.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">298</span>
<span class = "miles to">232</span>
<a name = "arvant" id = "arvant"><b>ARVANT</b></a>, 1400 ft., a dirty
hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the
inns is the H. Voyageurs.
<span class = "pagenum">374</span>
<a name = "page374" id = "page374"> </a>
<!-- png 434 -->
Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing
the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See
Black’s <i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
<p>From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences
the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from
Neussargues, 7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from
Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit,
which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The
span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct
1851 ft.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">304</span>
<span class = "miles to">226</span>
<a name = "brioude" id = "brioude"><b>BRIOUDE</b></a>, 1430 ft. above
the sea, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a
tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien
(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red
sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals.
The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over
which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another
portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular
arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing
large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but
plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the
two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
stones.</p>
<p>The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.</p>
<p>Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the
Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the
plain.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">318½</span>
<span class = "miles to">211½</span>
<a name = "st_georges_daurac_stn" id = "st_georges_daurac_stn"><b>ST.
GEORGES-D’AURAC</b></a>, 1872 ft. above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Lombardin,
near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for
St. Etienne 54½ m. farther. (See <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#st_georges_daurac">p. 91</a>, and <a class = "paris"
href = "paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">375</span>
<a name = "page375" id = "page375"> </a>
<!-- png 435 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">323</span>
<span class = "miles to">207</span>
<a name = "langeac" id = "langeac"><b>LANGEAC</b></a>, pop. 4800.
<i>Inns:</i> H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#langeac">p. 91</a>, and <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.) Between Langeac and Langogne the
train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst
vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or
grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark
ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance
while being hurried past in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is
Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The
fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the
rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S.
from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then
follow the stations of <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. (p. 91);
Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Langogne.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">364½</span>
<span class = "miles to">165½</span>
<a name = "langogne" id = "langogne"><b>LANGOGNE</b></a>, 2940 ft. above
the sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly
situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. <a class
= "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne">88</a> and <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas_to_langogne">94</a>, and <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.) 7½ m.
farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La
Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles
to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères,
6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now
passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">390</span>
<span class = "miles to">140</span>
<a name = "villefort" id = "villefort"><b>VILLEFORT</b></a>, 1820 ft.,
pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the
foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing
through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "bagnols_les_bains" id = "bagnols_les_bains"><b>Bagnols les
Bains</b></a>, pop. 500. <i>Inns:</i> Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in
rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
plenty of game on the mountains.</p>
<p>From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous
country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At <a name = "la_grande_combe"
id = "la_grande_combe"><b>La Grande Combe</b></a>, with the two stations
of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines
commence which extend to Alais.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Alais.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">419</span>
<span class = "miles to">111</span>
<a name = "alais" id = "alais"><b>ALAIS</b></a>, pop. 22,000, on the
Gardon. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like
Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields,
iron-works, and manufactories.
<span class = "pagenum">376</span>
<a name = "page376" id = "page376"> </a>
<!-- png 436 -->
This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of
Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other.
Some very capital wine is made at Alais.</p>
<p>Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to
Teil (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">p. 96</a>,
and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map56">map p. 56</a>);
also to <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun</a>,
35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map56">map p. 56</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">450</span>
<span class = "miles to">80</span>
<a name = "nimes_stn" id = "nimes_stn"><b>NÎMES</b></a> (see <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">p. 101</a>, and <a class = "paris"
href = "paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">467</span>
<span class = "miles to">63</span>
<a name = "tarascon_stn" id = "tarascon_stn"><b>TARASCON</b></a> (see
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">p. 66</a>, and <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">470</span>
<span class = "miles to">60</span>
<b>ARLES</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">p.
68</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p.
66</a>).<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">499½</span>
<span class = "miles to">30½</span>
<b>ST. CHAMAS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#st_chamas">p. 76</a>, and <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">512½</span>
<span class = "miles to">17½</span>
<b>ROGNAC</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">p.
77</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map
p. 66</a>).<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "miles from">518</span>
<span class = "miles to">12</span>
<a name = "pas_des_lanciers" id =
"pas_des_lanciers"><b>PAS-DES-LANCIERS</b></a>.<br>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "miles from">530</span>
<b>MARSEILLES</b> (see <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles">p. 111</a>, and <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#map123">map p. 123</a>).<br>
</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "clermont_to_brive" id =
"clermont_to_brive">
Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard,</a></h5>
<p>122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic
12½ m., Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m.,
Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m.,
Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., Meymac
73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m.
N.E. from Brive.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "royat" id = "royat">
<span class = "headnote">Royat.</span></a></p>
<p>From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends
the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons.
Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church,
founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was
heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept
is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second.
Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a
crypt supported on six colonnettes.</p>
<p>In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on
consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads
<span class = "pagenum">377</span>
<a name = "page377" id = "page377"> </a>
<!-- png 437 -->
down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth
sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are
allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others
are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_mart" id = "st_mart">
St. Mart.</a></span>
The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart.
In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of
the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of
which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the
establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the
chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and
magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The
charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.</p>
<p>Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the
establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains;
Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of
the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre;
Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing
through Chamalières. A great variety of excursions in the
neighbourhood.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">5</span>
<span class = "miles to">117</span>
<a name = "durtol" id = "durtol"><b>DURTOL</b></a>, situated among high
wooded mountains.<br>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">12½</span>
<span class = "miles to">109½</span>
<a name = "volvic" id = "volvic"><b>VOLVIC</b></a>. In the neighbourhood
of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct
crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front
of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic
by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le
Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent.
Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries
(see <a href = "#volvic_desc">p. 369</a>).</p>
<p>The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St.
Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for <a name
= "pontgibaud" id = "pontgibaud"><b>Pont-Gibaud</b></a>, pop. 1300,
24 m. distant. <i>Inns:</i> H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their
omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are
situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava
from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses
of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">40½</span>
<span class = "miles to">81½</span>
<a name = "laqueuille" id = "laqueuille"><b>LAQUEUILLE</b></a>, 3624 ft.
above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and
for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore
passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above
the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule
passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.</p>
<!-- png 439 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 378</span>
Environs of<br>
MONT DORE<br>
and LA BOURBOULE<br>
<a name = "map378" id = "map378" href = "images/map378.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map378thumb.png" width = "447" height = "318"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<span class = "pagenum">378</span>
<a name = "page378" id = "page378"> </a>
<!-- png 438 -->
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "mont_dore" id = "mont_dore">
MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne,
3402 ft. above the sea. <i>Hotels.</i>—Considering the style of
their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du
Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered
second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge
as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat;
H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade;
H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the
usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in
an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source
César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand
end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table
mixed with the wine.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in
and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are
of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the
more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements
for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then
2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the
sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
tickets bought at the office of the baths.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">379</span>
<a name = "page379" id = "page379"> </a>
<!-- png 440 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water.</span></p>
<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "mont_dore_water" id =
"mont_dore_water">
Contents of the Springs of Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</a></h5>
<table>
<tr>
<td width = "40%">
MdS = Madeleine Spring.<br>
PvS = Pavillon Spring.<br>
RiS = Rigny Spring.
</td>
<td>
CsS = Caesar Spring.<br>
RaS = Ramond Spring.
<p>BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs.</p>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table class = "grid">
<tr>
<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span><br>
</td>
<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td>
<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td>
<td class = "box">MdS</td>
<td class = "box">PvS</td>
<td class = "box">RiS</td>
<td class = "box">CsS</td>
<td class = "box">RaS</td>
<td class = "box">BPCS</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "topline sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Free carbonic acid gas</td>
<td>0.3552</td>
<td>0.3810</td>
<td>0.3644</td>
<td>0.5967</td>
<td>0.4997</td>
<td>0.0518</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Bicarbonate of soda</td>
<td>0.5362</td>
<td>0.5452</td>
<td>0.5375</td>
<td>0.5361</td>
<td>0.5362</td>
<td>2.8920</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of
potash</td>
<td>0.0309</td>
<td>0.0309</td>
<td>0.0232</td>
<td>0.0212</td>
<td>0.0212</td>
<td>....</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of
lime</td>
<td>0.3423</td>
<td>0.3142</td>
<td>0.3092</td>
<td>0.3209</td>
<td>0.2720</td>
<td>0.1905</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of
magnesia</td>
<td>0.1757</td>
<td>0.1676</td>
<td>0.1628</td>
<td>0.1676</td>
<td>0.1647</td>
<td>....</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of
protoxide of iron</p></td>
<td>0.0207</td>
<td>0.0235</td>
<td>0.025</td>
<td>0.0258</td>
<td>0.0317</td>
<td>0.0021</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Chloride of Sodium</td>
<td>0.3685</td>
<td>0.3630</td>
<td>0.3599</td>
<td>0.3587</td>
<td>0.3578</td>
<td>2.8406</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of soda</td>
<td>0.0761</td>
<td>0.0761</td>
<td>0.0761</td>
<td>0.0756</td>
<td>0.0737</td>
<td>0.2084</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Arseniate of soda</td>
<td>0.00096</td>
<td>0.00096</td>
<td>0.00096</td>
<td>0.0009</td>
<td>0.00095</td>
<td>0.02847</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Silicic acid</td>
<td>0.1654</td>
<td>0.1686</td>
<td>0.1653</td>
<td>0.1552</td>
<td>0.1550</td>
<td>0.1200</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "3">Alumina</td>
<td>0.0112</td>
<td>0.0094</td>
<td>0.0101</td>
<td>0.0083</td>
<td>0.0065</td>
<td class = "center">Traces.</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters
is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more
abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The
temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27°
above the hottest of Mont-Dore.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.—Madden’s <i>Health
Resorts</i>. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken
daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite,
and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this
is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which
frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a
disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication
that the saturation point has been obtained.—Lee’s
<i>Baths</i>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm
clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses
costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "mont_dore_excursions" id =
"mont_dore_excursions"><i>Excursions.</i></a>—There are many
pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic
hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at
intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the
dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the
ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these
confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush
and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the
district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance
as well as the way to the different places.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">380</span>
<a name = "page380" id = "page380"> </a>
<!-- png 441 -->
<p>One of the first excursions undertaken is to the <a name =
"queureuilh lake guery orcival"><b>Cascade du Queureuilh</b></a>, about
2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls
and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region,
is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below),
5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after
rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard
basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists
often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet,
a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile
below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage.
On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup
1¾ m., and to the Pré du Barbier.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lake Guéry. Orcival.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The excursion to <a name = "lake_guery" id = "lake_guery"><b>Lake
Guéry</b></a>, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in
the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road,
just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view
of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le
Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the
Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the
shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. from the main road,
in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake,
at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the
left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other
clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge
basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of <a name = "orcival"
id = "orcival"><b>Orcival</b></a>, with an inn and a church of the 9th
and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the
earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante,
a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the
Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an
extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
menhirs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m.
E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake
Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a
bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and <a href =
"#pic_sancy">Sancy</a> (see p. 381).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the
cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (<a href =
"#page385">p. 385</a>); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (<a
href = "#page385">p. 385</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pic de Sancy.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most important excursion is to the summit of the <b>Pic de</b>
<span class = "pagenum">381</span>
<a name = "page381" id = "page381"> </a>
<!-- png 442 -->
<a name = "pic_sancy" id = "pic_sancy"><b>Sancy</b></a>, 6188 ft. above
the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S.
from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good
bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From
the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on
the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft.
To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated
from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after,
the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea.
A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne,
descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite
are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to
an old alum mine.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of
the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the
infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy
meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here—25 c. charged for
taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20
minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in
circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
the <a name = "pic_ferrand" id = "pic_ferrand"><b>Puy Ferrand</b></a>,
6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des
Crètes.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor
hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing
a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières,
and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two
places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate
the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m.
from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the <a name = "lake_pavin" id =
"lake_pavin"><b>Lac-de-Pavin</b></a>, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the
crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft.
long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting
at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are
let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises
the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the
Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of
which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. <i>Inns:</i>
Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one
having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the
town is
<span class = "pagenum">382</span>
<a name = "page382" id = "page382"> </a>
<!-- png 443 -->
the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted
into shops and dwellings.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Murols.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to <a name = "murols" id =
"murols"><b>Murols</b></a>, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway
between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful
views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor,
and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (<i>Inn:</i> Nierat, pop.
700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have
escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt,
3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important
castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of
Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful
and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the
Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais,
and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the
left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the
sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little
farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop.
1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is
11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and
Murols the entire distance is 32 m.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A very pleasant promenade is to the <a name = "salon_capucin" id =
"salon_capucin"><b>Salon du Capucin</b></a>, recommended as well as the
Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If
on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee
cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which
enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone
to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du
Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At
last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where
several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to
the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is
quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to
the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about
2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its
name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille
du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
To go to the <a name = "vallee_denfer" id = "vallee_denfer"><b>Vallée
d’Enfer</b></a> return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which
leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top
of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where
those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have
to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge
between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the
valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore,
4¾ m. N.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">383</span>
<a name = "page383" id = "page383"> </a>
<!-- png 444 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourboule. Hotels.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bourboule" id = "bourboule">
BOURBOULE.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the
excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at
Mont-Dore.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "bourboule_hotels" id =
"bourboule_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—Around the principal
establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand
Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de
¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne,
by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc;
Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste;
Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to
let.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class
prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the
room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge
is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with
wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to
1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th
of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of
September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in
mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon
beforehand it will be much the same.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourboule_baths" id =
"bourboule_baths">
<span class = "headnote">Bourboule: Baths. Charges.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses,
of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes,
a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of
the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage.
Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy
and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of
the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st
to the 30th September, 2½ frs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the
Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour,
<span class = "pagenum">384</span>
<a name = "page384" id = "page384"> </a>
<!-- png 445 -->
including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that
time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourboule: Springs.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs" id =
"bourboule_springs">
The Springs.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and
Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse.
They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite,
and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water
pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140°
F.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the
springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°,
mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs
Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as
they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with
wine at dinner.</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs_effects" id =
"bourboule_springs_effects">
Their Constituents and Effects.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a
gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one
half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of
sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
arseniate of soda (see <a href = "#mont_dore_water">p. 379</a>).
Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their
composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them
applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases
of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all
scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges
from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce
great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin
disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures,
and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous
constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form
of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and
chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule
waters.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourboule: Excursions.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_excursions" id =
"bourboule_excursions">
Bourboule Excursions.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it
is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the
Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m.
from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh,
4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit
of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from
the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of
these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">385</span>
<a name = "page385" id = "page385"> </a>
<!-- png 446 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to
Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of
basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east
bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path
joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the
forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction,
in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About
1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where
a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade
Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way,
but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin.
A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
2¼ m. from Bourboule.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule
and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the
summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Saint-Nectaire.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "mont_dore_to_issoire" id =
"mont_dore_to_issoire">
Mont-Dore to Issoire,</a></h5>
<p>31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m.
Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m.
E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the
Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of
Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge,
arrives at <a name = "st_nectaire" id =
"st_nectaire"><b>Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas</b></a>, with a large bathing
establishment. <i>Hotels:</i> Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.</p>
<p>N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a
large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters.
<i>Hotels:</i> Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline,
ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and
are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa,
and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic
acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of
Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen,
of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant
the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended;
whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in
the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves,
3 m. from <a href = "#issoire">Issoire</a> (p. 372).</p>
<span class = "pagenum">386</span>
<a name = "page386" id = "page386"> </a>
<!-- png 447 -->
<h4 class = "itinerary">
Continuation of Route—Clermont to Brive.</h4>
<p>14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and
68 m. N.E. from Brive, is <a name = "eyguirande" id =
"eyguirande"><b>Eyguirande</b></a>, pop. 1150. Junction here with
loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m.
S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s <i>South France</i>, West
Half).</p>
<p>31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is <a name=
"meymac"><b>Meymac</b></a>, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church,
tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with
loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See
<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.</span></p>
<p>16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is <a name =
"tulle" id = "tulle"><b>Tulle</b></a>, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze.
<i>Hotels:</i> Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens
are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.</p>
<p>122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from
Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is <a name =
"brive_la_gaillarde" id =
"brive_la_gaillarde"><b>Brive-la-Gaillarde</b></a>, pop. 12,000, on the
Corrèze. <i>Hotels:</i> Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s <i>South
France</i>, West Half).</p>
</div> <!-- end div itinerary -->
<hr class = "mid">
<span class = "pagenum">387</span>
<a name = "page387" id = "page387"> </a>
<!-- png 448 -->
<h3><a name = "index" id = "index">
INDEX.</a></h3>
<div class = "mynote">
<p>When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary
reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are
visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has
been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings,
but the links will still work.</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html">Pages 1–106</a>
(paris.html: <b>boldface</b>)<br>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Pages 107–280</a>
(riviera.html: <i>italicized</i>)<br>
Pages 281-end (turin.html, the current file: unmarked)</p>
<p>Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the
top of the page. Page numbers in <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> indicate columns
in the printed book; the location of the page number—left or right
margin—depends on columns in the e-text.</p>
<p class = "center">
<a href = "#index_A">A–Ap</a>
<a href = "#index_A2">Ar–Av</a>
<a href = "#index_B">B–Be</a>
<a href = "#index_B2">Bi–Br</a>
<a href = "#index_C">C–Ce</a>
<a href = "#index_C2">Ch–Cl</a>
<a href = "#index_C3">Co–Cr</a>
<a href = "#index_D">D</a>
<a href = "#index_E">E</a>
<a href = "#index_F">F–Flavigny</a>
<a href = "#index_F2">Florence A-N</a>
<a href = "#index_F3">Florence O-V</a>
<a href = "#index_F4">Fo–Fr</a>
<a href = "#index_G">G–Ge</a>
<a href = "#index_G2">Gi–Gu</a>
<a href = "#index_H">H</a>
<a href = "#index_I">I</a>
<a href = "#index_J">J</a>
<a href = "#index_L">La</a>
<a href = "#index_L2">Le–Lu</a>
<a href = "#index_L3">Lyons</a>
<a href = "#index_M">Ma</a>
<a href = "#index_M2">Me–Mons</a>
<a href = "#index_M3">Mont–Mu</a>
<a href = "#index_N">N–Ne</a>
<a href = "#index_N2">Nice</a>
<a href = "#index_N3">Nicholas–Ny</a>
<a href = "#index_O">O</a>
<a href = "#index_P">P–Pi</a>
<a href = "#index_P2">Po–Pu</a>
<a href = "#index_Q">Q</a>
<a href = "#index_R">R</a>
<a href = "#index_S">S–St. N</a>
<a href = "#index_S2">St. P–San</a>
<a href = "#index_S3">Saou-Su</a>
<a href = "#index_T">T–Turbie</a>
<a href = "#index_T2">Turin</a>
<a href = "#index_U">U</a>
<a href = "#index_V">V–Ve</a>
<a href = "#index_V2">Vi–Vo</a>
<a href = "#index_W">W</a>
</p>
</div>
<table class = "index">
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_A" id = "index_A" href = "#index">A–Ap</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#abries"><span class = "smallcaps">Abries</span>
344</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Acqui 184</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#agay">Agay 147</a></p>
<p><a href = "#aiguebelle">Aiguebelle 289</a></p>
<p><a href = "#aigueperse">Aigueperse 368</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes
73</a></p>
<p><a href = "#aiguilles">Aiguilles 344</a></p>
<p><a href = "#aime">Aime 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence 78</a>, <a href =
"#page338">338</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">olive oil 79</a></p>
<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"> to Geneva by Annecy 286</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Alacoque, M. M.
27</a></p>
<p><a href = "#alais">Alais 375</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#alan">Alan 49</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alassio">Alassio
208</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albenga">Albenga
208</a></p>
<p><a href = "#albertville">Albertville 320</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page320"> to
Annecy 320</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albissola">Albissóla
210</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alesia 19</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alessandria">Alessandria
280</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alise-St. Reine
19</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Allègre 89</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page336">Allevard-les-Bains 336</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Allos 339</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia
279</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Alzon 105</a></p>
<p><a href = "#amberieu">Amberieux 281</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ambert">Ambert 91</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page348">Amplepuis 348</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ampuis">Ampuis 81</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page3">Amyot, Jacques 3</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ancy_le_franc">Ancy-le-Franc
18</a></p>
<p><a href = "#annecy">Annecy 286</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#annonay">Annonay 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#antibes">Antibes 169</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">154</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#antraigues">Antraigues
94</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Apricale
201</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">Aps 97</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#apt">Apt 66</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">preserves 66</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_A2" id = "index_A2" href =
"#index">Ar–Av</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Aramon 99</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#arenzano">Arenzano
211</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ardeche">Ardèche sketch of
45</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches to 45</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#map46"> map of 46</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">387b</span>
<a name = "page387b" id = "page387b"> </a>
<!-- png 448 -->
<p><a href = "#ardes">Ardes 373</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p>
<p><a href = "#arfeuilles">Arfeuilles 346</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arlanc">Arlanc 90</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">Arles 68</a>, <a href =
"#page376">376</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_fontvieille">to
Fontvieille 71</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_bouc">to Port Bouc
72</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_st_louis">to Port
St. Louis 72</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">to St. Gilles
72</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">Arma 207</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page86">Arsac 86</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page282">Artemart 282</a></p>
<p><a href = "#arvant">Arvant 373</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aspres">Aspres 48</a>, <a href
= "#page345">345</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Astet 89</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#asti">Asti 280</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#aubagne">Aubagne
122</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas">Aubenas 93</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Aups 145</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#auribeau">Auribeau
156</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun 24</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#auxerre">Auxerre 14</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Avallon 16</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#avenza">Avenza 222</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon">Avignon 58</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_benezet">Benezet’s bridge
63</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page62"> tomb 62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page58">Hotels 58</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_hotel_de_ville">Hôtel de
Ville 61</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_j_s_mill">J. S. Mill’s
tomb 63</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">Laura’s tomb 62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_calvet">Musée Calvet
61</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_requien">Museum of
Natural History 62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_cathedral">Notre Dame des
Doms 60</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_palace">Popes’ palace
58</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_rocher">Rocher des Doms
60</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_agricol">St. Agricol
61</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_dedier">St. <ins class
= "correction" title = "spelled ‘Dedier’ in body text">Didier</ins>
62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_joseph">St. Joseph
62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas
63</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">St. Pierre 62</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_manosque">to Manosque
by Cavaillon 66</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_nimes">to Nîmes
64</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_vaucluse">to Vaucluse
64</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_villeneuve">to
Villeneuve 63</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_B" id = "index_B" href = "#index">B–Be</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum left">387c</span>
<a name = "page387c" id = "page387c"> </a>
<!-- png 448 -->
<p><a href = "#bagnols_les_bains"><span class =
"smallcaps">Bagnoles-les-Bains</span> 375</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Bagnoles-sur-Ceze
99</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Bains 91</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Balaruc 76</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Bandols
123</a></p>
<p><a href = "#banges">Banges 285</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Bar 163</a></p>
<p><a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo">to Cuneo 341</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#st_paul">to St. Paul 341</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bardonnecchia"><ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Bardonnechia’">Bardonnecchia</ins> 291</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols">Barjols 143</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols_2">167</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barreme">Barrème
166</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Baths—Acqui
184</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#aix_les_bains">
Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#aix_en_provence"> Aix-en-Provence 78</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336">
Allevard 336</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#bagnols_les_bains"> Bagnols 375</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page76"> Balaruc 76</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#bourboule_baths"> Bourboule 383</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#bourbon_lancy">
Bourbon-Lancy 358</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#bourbon_larchambault"> Bourbon l’Archambault 357</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page284">
Challes 284</a>, <a href = "#page288">288</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#chateauneuf">
Châteauneuf 369</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page369">
Châtelguyon 369</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#chateldon">
Chateldon 367</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#cusset"> Cusset
365</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page75"> Foncaude 75</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#greoulx"> Gréoulx 168</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page327"> La
Motte 327</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#lucca_baths"> Lucca 230</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page284">
Marlioz 284</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_dore">
Mont-Dore 378</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#neyrac_les_bains"> Neyrac 94</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#pougues_les_eaux"> Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#royat"> Royat
376</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> Sail
348</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> St.
Alban 348</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_galmier">
St. Galmier 348</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#san_giuliano"> St. Giuliano 227</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page354"> St.
Honoré 354</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_mart"> St.
Mart 377</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_nectaire">
St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336">
Uriage 336</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#valdieri"> Valdieri 181, 182</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page103"> Vals 103</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#vichy"> Vichy
359</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page183"> Vinadio 183</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">388</span>
<a name = "page388" id = "page388"> </a>
<!-- png 449 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Beage, Le 84</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Beaucaire 67</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Beauchastel 82</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Beaufort 46</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Beaujolais 29</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#beaulieu">Beaulieu
184</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#beaune">Beaune 23</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">Beaurières 48</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Beausset
123</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page331">Bec-de-l’Homme 331</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens_becket">Becket, Thomas à
11</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vez_becket">15</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">17</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bedoin">Bedoin 56</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#belgentier">Belgentier
129</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page321">Bellentre 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#belleville">Belleville
29</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Belvedère
181</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_berarde">Berarde 330</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page56">Berlingots 56</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page353">Bernadette Soubirous 353</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lake_berre">Berre 77</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bersezio">Bersezio 342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_bessee">Bessée 344</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux">
to Mt. Pelvoux 344</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page381">Besse-en-Chandesse 381</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">Beza, T. 15</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_B2" id = "index_B2" href =
"#index">Bi–Br</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#billom">Billom 350</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#blaizy_bas">Blaizy-Bas
20</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bobbio">Bobbio 306</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Bogliasco
219</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Boileau 2</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Bollène 50</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bologna">Bologna 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Accademia 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_ai_servi">Ai Servi (church) 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_annunziata">Annunziata 320</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page318">Biblioteca Communale 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna">Bolognese school 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna">Cabs 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_certosa">Certosa 320</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_university">Galvani 316</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_guido">Guido’s grave 319</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#madonna_san_luca">Madonna di S. Luca 320</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page316">Mezzofanti 316</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_pal_mercanzia">Pal. Mercanzia 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_pal_zampieri">Pal. Zampieri 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Picture gallery 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_bartolommeo">S. Bartolommeo 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_domenico">S. Domenico 319</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_giacomo">S. G. Maggiore 316</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_petronio">S. Petronio 317</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_pietro">S. Pietro 319</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_san_stefano">S. Stefano 318</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page319">S. Vitale 319</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Asinelli 317</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Garisenda 317</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#bologna_university">University 316</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Bondonneau 49</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">388b</span>
<a name = "page388b" id = "page388b"> </a>
<!-- png 449 -->
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bordighera">Bordighera
200</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bormes">Bormes 142</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#borne">Borne 89</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon_bossuet">Bossuet, J. B.
22</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse 113</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page147">Boulerie
147</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy baths 358</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault baths
357</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourboule">Bourboule 383</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux 47</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Bourg-Argental
81</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg-d’Oisans 329</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> to
Lac Blanc 329</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> to
the Ecrin group 329</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourgoin">Bourgoin 322</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourg_st_andeol">Bourg-St.
Andeol 97</a></p>
<p><a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">Bourg-St. Maurice 321</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_breuil">Breuil, Le 373</a></p>
<p><a href = "#briancon">Briançon 332</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"> to Mt. Pelvoux 333</a>, <a href =
"#page345">345</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#briancon_to_oulx"> to Oulx 333</a></p>
<p><a href = "#briare">Briare 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#brignoles">Brignoles
142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Brillane 339</a></p>
<p><a href = "#brioude">Brioude 374</a></p>
<p><a href = "#brive_la_gaillarde">Brive 386</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page287">Brogny 287</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy 2</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#buffon">Buffon, Comte de
18</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Burgundy wines 22</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">23</a>, <a class = "paris"
href = "paris.html#page24">24</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#busalla">Busalla
279</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page291">Bussoleno 291</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_C" id = "index_C" href = "#index">C–Ce</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cagnes"><span class =
"smallcaps">Cagnes</span> 165</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#callian">Callian
162</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli
278</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page70">Camargue 70</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Campo-Rosso
201</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes">Cannes 149</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page149">Agents 149</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Adalbert 151</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page159">159</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cap_antibes">Antibes
154</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Auribeau 156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Banks 151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_brougham">Brougham,
Lord 151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page155">155</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_cabs">Cabs 151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Californie
152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_canal">Canal 162</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannet">Cannet 154</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castelaras">Castelaras
156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Cemetery 152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_churches">Churches
151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Clausonne 154</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_climate">Climate
151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_corniche">Corniche
152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_croisette">Croisette, La
154</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">388c</span>
<a name = "page388c" id = "page388c"> </a>
<!-- png 449 -->
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#croix_des_gardes">Croix des
Gardes 155</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_drives">Drives
152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class =
"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins>
155</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Hesperide 154</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_hotels">Hotels and
Pensions 149</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iron_mask">Iron Mask
157</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">Lerins Islands
156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mont Vinaigre
156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mouans-Sartoux
156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mougins">Mougins 156</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Cannes—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Napoule 154</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">N. D.
d’Esperance 151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Observatories
151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegomas">Pegomas 156</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris_pottery">Pottery
153</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">St. Anne 151</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page155">St. Cassien
155</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat
158</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page157">St. Marguerite
157</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Théoule 155</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris
153</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules
142</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#carpentras">Carpentras
54</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Carqueyranne
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Negre
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Paradis
141</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carrara">Carrara
222</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_casset">Casset, Le 332</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Cassini, G. D.
201</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellane">Castellane
165</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page206">Castellaro
206</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Cavaillon 66</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Cayres 88</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Celles-les-Bains
83</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Cercy-la-Tour 25</a>,
<a href = "#page354">354</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page184">Certosa
184</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Cervo 208</a></p>
<p><a href = "#cesanne">Cesanne 333</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cette">Cette 75</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page76"> to Balaruc 76</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_C2" id = "index_C2" href =
"#index">Ch–Cl</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chablis">Chablis 14</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chabons">Chabons 323</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chagny">Chagny 24</a>, <a href
= "#page355">355</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu
89</a></p>
<p><a href = "#challes">Challes 284</a>, <a href =
"#page288">288</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#chalon_sur_saone">Chalon-sur-Saône 26</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Chambertin
23</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chambery">Chambery 287</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page380">Chambon 380</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page385">Champeix 385</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Charenton 2</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Charmes 82</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page288">Charmettes, Les 288</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chateauneuf">Châteauneuf (Riom) 369</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page343">Châteauroux 343</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_chatelard">Châtelard, Le 285</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chateldon">Chateldon 367</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page369">Châtelguyon 369</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Châtillon 47</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">389</span>
<a name = "page389" id = "page389"> </a>
<!-- png 450 -->
<p><a href = "#page282">Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page351">Châtillon-sur-Loing 351</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page352">Châtillon-sur-Loire 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Chavanay 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_cheilard">Cheilard
83</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page341">Chenal 341</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#chiavari">Chiavari
220</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chiomonte">Chiomonte 291</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chorges">Chorges 342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page321">Cirque-d’Annibal 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Citeaux abbey
23</a></p>
<p><a href = "#claix">Claix 328</a>, <a href = "#page345">345</a></p>
<p><a href = "#clamecy">Clamecy 354</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#clamecy_2">15</a></p>
<p><a href = "#clelles">Clelles 345</a></p>
<p><a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand 369</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page371">Academie 371</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#clermont_botanic">Botanic gardens 371</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#clermont_cathedral">Cathedral 370</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page370">Coaches 370</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Hotels 369</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#clermont_notre_dame">Notre Dame 371</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page370">Pascal’s house 370</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page371">Peter the Hermit 371</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page370">Preserved fruits 370</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy de Dome 372</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#romagnat">Romagnat 372</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#clermont_to_brive">to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and
Bourboule 376</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#lyons_to_clermont">to Lyons by St. Etienne 349</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cluny">Cluny 27</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_C3" id = "index_C3" href =
"#index">Co–Cr</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cogoleto">Cogoleto
210</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Cogolin
145</a></p>
<p><a href = "#col_abries">Col Abriés 307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page183"> Braus 183</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page183"> Brouis 183</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page48"> Cabres 48</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page181"> Cerise 181</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page89"> Chavade 89</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#col_croix">
Croix 306</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#col_finestra"> Finestra 181</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page181"> Fremamorta 181</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#col_lautaret">
Lautaret 331</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page341">
Longet 341</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page342">
Maddalena 342</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page339"> Maure
339</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page181"> Moulières 181</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page330">
Muselle 330</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page342"> Mulo
342</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page51"> Ribeyret 51</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#col_sestrieres"> Sestrières 307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page183"> Tenda 183</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#col_traversette"> Traversette 308</a>, <a href =
"#page344">344</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_colla">Colla, La
202</a></p>
<p><a href = "#colmars">Colmars 339</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#collobrieres">Collobrières
130</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#columbus">Columbus
211</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page342">Condamine-Châtelard 342</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_condamine">Condamine, La
189</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum">389b</span>
<a name = "page389b" id = "page389b"> </a>
<!-- png 450 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Condrieu 81</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cornigliano">Cornigliano
212</a></p>
<p><a href = "#corps">Corps 334</a></p>
<p><a href = "#parma_correggio">Correggio 313</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page230">Corsena
230</a></p>
<p><a href = "#cosne">Cosne 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Cote d’Or 22</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#coupe_daizac">Coupe-d’Aizac
94</a></p>
<p><a href = "#courmayeur">Courmayeur 322</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Courpière 91</a></p>
<p><a href = "#courty">Courty 350</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Craponne 89</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page14">Cravant 14</a>, <a href
= "#page355">355</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#crest">Crest 46</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#crest_to_aspres"> to Aspres 47</a></p>
<p><a href = "#crissolo">Crissolo 308</a>, <a href =
"#page344">344</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_croisiere">Croisière, La
50</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Croix Blanche
105</a></p>
<p><a href = "#cruseilles">Cruseilles 287</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Cruzy-le-Chatel
18</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuers">Cuers 130</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p>
<p><a href = "main.html#food">Culinary terms xxiii</a></p>
<p><a href = "#culoz">Culoz 282</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuneo">Cuneo 182</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>, <a href =
"#page308">308</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"> to Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page182"> to Nice 182</a></p>
<p><a href = "#cusset">Cusset 365</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_D" id = "index_D" href = "#index">D</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darcey"><span class =
"smallcaps">Darcey</span> 19</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darsac">Darsac 89</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page89"> to Chaise-Dieu 89</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page331">Dauphin, Le 331</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Decize 25</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page342">Demonte 342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page288">Dent de Nivolet 288</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page282">Dent-du-Chat 282</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Diano Marina
208</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die 47</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dieulefit">Dieulefit 47</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">Digne 166</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#digoin">Digoin 358</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon">Dijon 20</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_doctors">Doctors’
fees 110</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Dolce-Acqua
201</a></p>
<p><a href = "#domene">Domène 336</a></p>
<p><a href = "#dompierre_sur_bebre">Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#donzere">Donzère 50</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page287">Doussard 287</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#draguignan">Draguignan
145</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page287">Duingt 287</a></p>
<p><a href = "#duke_berwick">Duke of Berwick 356</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Duranus
180</a></p>
<p><a href = "#durtol">Durtol 377</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_E" id = "index_E" href = "#index">E</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">Eaux Chaudes
166</a></p>
<p><a href = "#embrun">Embrun 343</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page330">Enchastraye 330</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Entraque
181</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Epinac 24</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page165">Escragnolles
165</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">389c</span>
<a name = "page389c" id = "page389c"> </a>
<!-- png 450 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#espaly">Espaly 89</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lestaque">Estaque, L’
80</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class =
"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins> 156</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page146">146</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#etang">Etang 25</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page286">Eugene Sué 286</a></p>
<p><a href = "#eyguirande">Eyguirande 386</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#eze">Eze 186</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_F" id = "index_F" href = "#index">F</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Fayence
145</a></p>
<p><a href = "#fenestrelle">Fenestrelle 307</a></p>
<p><a href = "#feurs">Feurs 346</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#fiesole">Fiesole
276</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#finalmarina">Finalmarina
209</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fix_st_geneys">Fix-St. Geneys
91</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#flavigny">Flavigny 19</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_F2" id = "index_F2" href = "#index">Florence
(A-N)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence">Florence</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page233">233</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_fine_arts">Academy of
Fine Arts</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page271">271</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">Alkermes 268</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Amerigo Vespucci
275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page248">Arcetri 248</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_la_badia">Badia,
La</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">263</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_baptistery">Baptistery</a> <a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page256">256</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">Bargello</a> <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Bello
Sguardo</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page250">250</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Bibbiena 279</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_laurentiana">Bibliotheca Laurentiana</a> <a class
= "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page266">266</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_national_library"> Nazionale 236</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bigallo">Bigallo,
Il</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page257">257</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_boboli">Boboli
Gardens</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page246">246</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_brancacci">Brancacci
chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#sta_maria_brunelleschi">Brunelleschi’s crucifix</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">268</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cabs">Cab tariff</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">278</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_campanile">Campanile</a> <a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page255">255</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page276">Cascine 276</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Cathedral</a> <a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_certosa">Certosa</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page250">250</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_croce_dante">Dante</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page258">258</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page272">David, by Michael
Angelo 272</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Donatello’s crucifix
260</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Duomo</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Florence—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna">Galileo 247</a>, <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">260</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Galleria
Uffizi</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page237">237</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Gallery of
mosaics</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hints">Guide
books</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page255">Hawkwood, John
255</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hospital">Hospital
St. Giovanni</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page275">275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hotels">Hotels and
apartments 233</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">House of Amerigo
Vespucci 275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_dante_house"> of Dante 274</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_galileo_house"> of Galileo 248</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">390</span>
<a name = "page390" id = "page390"> </a>
<!-- png 451 -->
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page247"> of Macchiavelli 247</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_michelangelo_house"> of Michael Angelo
263</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#sta_croce_ketterick">Ketterick, John</a> <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">259</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_loggia_orcagna">Loggia Orcagna 235</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">Luca della Robbia
ware 263</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">Masaccio 252</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Money-changers
234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte
Oliveto</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page251">251</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mortuary">Mortuary
chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page255">255</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Mosaic
manufacture</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_etruscan">Museum of
Etruscan Antiquities</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page267">267</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_natural_history"> Nat. Hist. 247</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">National Museum</a> <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_niobe">Niobe
242</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_F3" id = "index_F3" href = "#index">Florence
(O-V)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>Florence—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Ognissanti
275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">Or St.
Michele 257</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_palaces">Palaces
273</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pal_corsini">Palazzo
Corsini 275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_pal_riccardi"> Riccardi 275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_pal_strozzi"> Strozzi 275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_pal_torrigiani"> Torrigiani 276</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_pal_vecchio"> Vecchio 274</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_park">Park
276</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Pazzi chapel
260</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">Perazzi chapel
259</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">Piazza S.
Annunziata 269</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_piazza_sta_croce"> S. Croce 258</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_piazza_signoria"> Signoria 235</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">Piazzale Michelangiolo
249</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_marco_gallery">Picture
gallery of S. Marco 270</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pitti_gallery">Pitti
gallery 243</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_pal_pitti"> palace 246</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pontassieve
278</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_galileo_house">Porta
Romana 248</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page236">Post office
236</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Prefettura della
Provincia 275</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Protestant churches
234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page239">Raphael 239</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">Refectory of S. Croce
261</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Restaurants
234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_maria_rucellai">Rucellai
chapel 268</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Florence—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_sagrestia_nuova">Sagrestia Nuova 265</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">S.
Annunziata 268</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_sta_croce">S. Croce
258</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_giovannino">S.
Giovannino 264</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_lorenzo">S.
Lorenzo 264</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_marco">S. Marco
270</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_del_carmine">S. Maria
del Carmine 252</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">390b</span>
<a name = "page390b" id = "page390b"> </a>
<!-- png 451 -->
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">S. Maria
del <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Fiori’">Fiore</ins>
252</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_sta_maria_novella"> Novella 267</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">S.
Michele 257</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_miniato">S.
Miniato 249</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_santo_spirito">S.
Spirito 251</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page269">Sarto, Andrea del
269</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page270">Savonarola
270</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Sights 234</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_spezeria">Spezeria
268</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page277">Straw-plaiting
277</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_torre_gallo">Torre
del Gallo 248</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_tribuna">Tribuna
238</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna"> di Galileo 247</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Uffizi
gallery 237</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#florence_to_vallombrosa">Vallombrosa 278</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page238">Venus de Medici
238</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Views
250</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_F4" id = "index_F4" href =
"#index">Fo–Fr</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Foncaude baths
75</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau
3</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Fontana
183</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Fontenay abbey
19</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Forcalqueiret
129</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fos">Fos 76</a></p>
<p><a href = "#fourchambault">Fourchambault 353</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page331">Freaux, Les 331</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#frejus">Frejus 146</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_freney">Freney, Le 331</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#frontignan">Frontignan
75</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">salt 75</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_G" id = "index_G" href = "#index">G–Ge</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Gallinaria
208</a></p>
<p><a href = "#gannat">Gannat 368</a></p>
<p><a href = "#gap">Gap 340</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#gap"> to
Barcelonnette 340</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#gap_to_grenoble"> to Grenoble 342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page374">Garabit, Pont de 374</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gardanne">Gardanne 142</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a href =
"#page338">338</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#gardanne_to_carnoules"> to Carnoules 142</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa">Genoa 212</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Accademia 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Acquasola 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_albergo_poveri">Albergo
dei Poveri 218</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cabs">Cabs 213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cafes">Cafés 213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_campo_santo">Campo-Santo
218</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cathedral">Cathedral
217</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Corsos 213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">English church
212</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Hotels 212</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Money-changers
213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Palazzo Adorno
216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page215"> Balbi 215</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_pal_doria"> Doria 214</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span> <span class =
"dash">——</span> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page216"> (Giorgio) 216</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Genoa—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_pal_ducal">Palazzo Ducal
217</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">390c</span>
<a name = "page390c" id = "page390c"> </a>
<!-- png 451 -->
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_pal_durazzo"> Durazzo 215</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_municipio"> Municipicio 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_pal_rosso"> Rosso 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_pal_serra"> Serra 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#genoa_pal_spinola"> Spinola 216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Post office
216</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page214">Royal Palace
214</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_ambrogio">S.
Ambrogio 217</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_annunziata">S.
Annunziata 215</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_sta_maria">S. Maria in
Carignano 218</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_matteo">S. Matteo
217</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_siro">S. Siro
215</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Shops 212</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_steamers">Steamers</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Telegraph office
213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Valdensian church
212</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Via Circonvallazione
213</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_via_milano">Via Milano
214</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#gerbier_de_joncs">Gerbier-de-Joncs 84</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Gevrey
23</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_G2" id = "index_G2" href =
"#index">Gi–Gu</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giandola">Giandola
183</a></p>
<p><a href = "#gien">Gien 351</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens">Giens 140</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_chateau">Le Chateau
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens_saltworks">Salt works
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Semaphore 141</a></p>
<p><a href = "#gieres">Gières 336</a></p>
<p><a href = "#gilly">Gilly 358</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#givors_canal">Givors-Canal
81</a>, <a href = "#page349">349</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page337">Gleyzin glacier 337</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#golf_jouan">Golf Jouan
169</a></p>
<p><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin 336</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page131">Gonfaron
131</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Gourdon
163</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page324">Grand Som 324</a></p>
<p><a href = "#grande_chartreuse">Grande-Chartreuse 323</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_grande_combe">Grande Combe 375</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grasse">Grasse 160</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_grave">Grave, La 331</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble 324</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_bastile">Bastile 325</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_bayard">Bayard 325</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_coaches">Coaches 325</a>, <a href =
"#page327">327</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_gloves">Gloves 327</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble">Hotels 324</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_library">Library 326</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_gallery">Picture gallery 326</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_st_andre">St. André 325</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page327">St. Laurent 327</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page341">to Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon">to Briançon 328</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#grenoble_to_corps">to Corps 333</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#gap_to_grenoble">to Gap 342</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">391</span>
<a name = "page391" id = "page391"> </a>
<!-- png 452 -->
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page327">to La Motte-les-Bains 327</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page327">to Sassenage 327</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#greoulx">Gréoulx
167</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#grignan">Grignan 49</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">Grimaud
144</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page354">Guerigny 354</a></p>
<p><a href = "#guillestre">Guillestre 344</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_H" id = "index_H" href = "#index">H</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page284"><span class = "smallcaps">Hautecombe
Abbey</span> 284</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Hermitage wine
43</a></p>
<p><a href = "#hospice">Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres">Hyères 133</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Banks 133</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#hyeres_butterflies">Butterflies</a> <a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cabs">Cabs 134</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#hyeres_caterpillar">Caterpillars</a> <a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Charles of Anjou
136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">Château, Le
136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_climate">Climate
140</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page134">Clubs 134</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cork">Cork trees</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_costebelle">Costebelle
136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_drives">Drives
134</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">English Pharmacy
133</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Episcopal Chapel
133</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mt_fenouillet">Fenouillet,
Mont 137</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Game 138</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Hermitage 136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_hotels">Hotels
133</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Hyères—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Jardin
d’Acclimatation 136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page140">La Plage 140</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map129">Map 129</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massillon">Massillon
135</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Napoleon I.
136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_oiseaux">Oiseaux Monts
<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘128’">138</ins></a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive trees
138</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page108">Palm sticks
108</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Palms 136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Paradis Mont
141</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">Pauline, La
142</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_pipes">Pipes
139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Potence 139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Productions
139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_louis">St. Louis</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">136</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_paul">St. Paul</a>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page135">135</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_coaches">Stage
coaches</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page134">134</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Temple Protestant
133</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Town water
139</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trou_fees">Trou des Fées
138</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">View from Le
Château 137</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_I" id = "index_I" href = "#index">I</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins"><span class =
"smallcaps">Iles de Lerins</span> 157</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_dor">Iles d’Or
131</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_baths">Il Serraglio
230</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">391b</span>
<a name = "page391b" id = "page391b"> </a>
<!-- png 452 -->
<p><a href = "#issoire">Issoire 372</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page385">coach to St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#isola_buona">Isola Buona
201</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#istres">Istres 76</a></p>
<p><a href = "#map291">Italian railway terms and time-tables 291</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">200</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_J" id = "index_J" href = "#index">J</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#jaujac"><span class =
"smallcaps">Jaujac</span> 95</a></p>
<p><a href = "#jausiers">Jausiers 342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Javie 339</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret_jean_sans">Jean-Sans-Peur
10</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page20">20</a>, <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#page22">22</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#joigny">Joigny 14</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">Jouques 79</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Joyeuse 96</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_L" id = "index_L" href = "#index">La</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#la_balme"><span class = "smallcaps">La Balme</span>
282</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">La Barben 79</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page375">La Bastide 375</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">La Begude 93</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">La Bollene
181</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page306">La Chalp 306</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_chambre">La Chambre 289</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_charite">La Charité 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_ciotat">La Ciotat
122</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_crau">La Crau
130</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">La Garde 128</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page130">130</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">La Garde
Fraiseinet 144</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague
141</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page344">La Monta 344</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">La Mothe 94</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_palisse">La Palisse 346</a>, <a href =
"#page368">368</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">La Pauline
142</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche 14</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page334">La Salle 334</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_salette">La Salette 334</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">La Sauvetat 88</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_seyne">La Seyne
123</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_valette">La Valette
128</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">La Voulte 82</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lachamp_raphael">Lachamp-Raphael 84</a></p>
<p><a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey 333</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#lagnieu">Lagnieu 282</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Laigueglia
208</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Lake Allos 339</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page286">
Annecy 286</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page282">
Bourget 282</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page323">
Paladru 323</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#lake_pavin">
Pavin 381</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page76"> Thau 76</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Lamartine 27</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc 80</a></p>
<p><a href = "#langeac">Langeac 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#langeac_2">91</a></p>
<p><a href = "#langogne">Langogne 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page95">95</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne"> to Le Puy 88</a></p>
<p><a href = "#lans_le_bourg">Lans-le-Bourg 290</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lantosque">Lantosque
180</a></p>
<p><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille 377</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to
Mont-Dore, 377</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to
Bourboule, 377</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page342">Larche 342</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">391c</span>
<a name = "page391c" id = "page391c"> </a>
<!-- png 452 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#largentiere">Largentière
96</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page14"> to Les Laumes 14</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#larzac">Larzac 106</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun 99</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page323">Laurent-du-Pont 323</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page331">Lauzet 331</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_lauzet">Lauzet, Le 341</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page143">Lavandou
143</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_L2" id = "index_L2" href =
"#index">Le–Lu</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page57">Le Barroux 57</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le Beage 84</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_bouchet">Le Bouchet
88</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_buis">Le Buis 57</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_creusot">Le Creusot
25</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Le Monastier
85</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Le Pal 96</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Le Peage de Roussillon
43</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Le Pouzin 92</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy">Le Puy 86</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Le Teil 93</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Le Trayas
149</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#leghorn">Leghorn
226</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lemons">Lemons 191</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page194">194</a>, <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Lerici 221</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_arcs">Les Arcs
145</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_baux">Les Baux 67</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page85">Les Etables 85</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page330">Les Etages 330</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes
19</a></p>
<p><a href = "#les_marches_1">Les Marches 289</a>, <a href =
"#les_marches_2">338</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Les Piles 51</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">Les Saintes Maries
72</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_salins">Les Salins
141</a></p>
<p><a href = "#leschaux">Leschaux 287</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levant">Levant, Ile du
132</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levens">Levens 180</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#limone">Limone 183</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle 64</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page329">Livet 329</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron 46</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page209">Loano 209</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lorgues">Lorgues
145</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page356">Lord Clarendon 356</a></p>
<p><a href = "#lovagny">Lovagny 286</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_luc">Luc 144</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca">Lucca 227</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page227">Cabs 227</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_cathedral">Cathedral
228</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_hotels">Hotels
227</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_gallery">Picture gallery
228</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_san_frediano">S.
Frediano 229</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page229">S. Michele
229</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#luc_en_diois">Luc-en-Diois
48</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lunel">Lunel 72</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">wine 73</a></p>
<p><a href = "#lurs">Lurs 339</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page305">Luserna 305</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Luzy 25</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_L3" id = "index_L3" href = "#index">Lyons</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum left">392</span>
<a name = "page392" id = "page392"> </a>
<!-- png 453 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">Lyons 29</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page33">Antiquaille Hospital
33</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page34">Aqueduct 34</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Boats, Penny
31</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_bourse">Bourse 38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cabs">Cabs 30</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cathedral">Cathedral
34</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cheese">Cheese 42</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_soies">Condition des Soies
37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Distances 29</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">First sewing-machine
38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Flourvière 32</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_origin">History 41</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Hospice 39</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotel_ville">Hôtel de Ville
37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_hospital"> Dieu 39</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotels">Hotels 29</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page42">Ile Barbe 42</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">Jacquard’s loom 38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_library">Libraries 37,
38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_minerals">Minerals
37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page41">Mont Ceindre 41</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_mont_dor"> d’Or 42</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_archeologique">Musée
Archéologique 36</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page40"> Guimet 40</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_lapidaire"> Lapidaire 35</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_silk_museum"> of Silk 38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_notre_dame">Notre Dame
33</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Lyons—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay 33</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">Palais de Justice
35</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#lyons_beaux_arts"> des Beaux Arts 35</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_park">Park 40</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_gallery">Picture gallery
36</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_terreaux">Place des Terreaux
37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_post">Post office 30</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">Préfecture 37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_stations">Railway station
30</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Bruno 37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_irenee">St. Irénée
34</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_martin">St. Martin
d’Ainay 39</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Nizier 35</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_paul">St. Paul 33</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Pierre 35</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Polycarpe 37</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_sights">Sights 32</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_silk_museum">Silk museum
38</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Squares (Places)
32</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Steamers
31</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Tête d’Or 40</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_theatres">Theatres
31</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_to_nimes">to Nîmes
81</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_tramways">Trams 31</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Weavers 40</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Workhouse (Hospice)
39</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_M" id = "index_M" href = "#index">Ma</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#macon"><span class =
"smallcaps">Macon</span> 26</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">wines 24</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">392b</span>
<a name = "page392b" id = "page392b"> </a>
<!-- png 453 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Maisons-Alfort 2</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#malaucene">Malaucene 57</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">Manosque 168</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">66</a>, <a class =
"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">166</a>, <a href =
"#page339">339</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#marcols">Marcols 84</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page284">Marlioz 284</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles">Marseilles
111</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#marseilles_note">80</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Anglican chapel
112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_arc_triomphe">Arc
de Triomphe 116</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">Biblothèque
117</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Bishop Belsunce
116</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Boats 112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page113">Bonneveine
113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse
113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_bourse">Bourse
116</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_cabs">Cabs
111</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page77">Canal 77</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_cathedral">Cathedral 115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Charities 119</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Château
Borely 113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_commerce">Commerce
120</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_consigne">Consigne
115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_corniche">Corniche
113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_custom_house">Custom-house 112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">École des Beaux Arts
117</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_history">History
120</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotel_ville">Hôtel
de Ville 115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotels">Hotels
111</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#island_if">If, island of
118</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_industries">Industries 119</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Marseilles—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Joliette 115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Lazarus’s grave
119</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_lycee">Lycée
117</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseillaise">Marseillaise,
the 120</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page118">Martigues 118</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Money-changers
112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Musée
d’Archéologie 113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_notre_dame">Notre
Dame 117</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Observatory
115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Palais de Justice
116</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp"> Longchamp 114</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Port 115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Préfecture
116</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Reservoir 115</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_st_victor">St.
Victor 117</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_sights">Sights
112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_steamers">Steamboats 112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Temple 112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page338">to Grenoble 338</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_to_menton">to
Menton 112</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_trams">Trams
113</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Zoological garden
115</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page341">Martinet 341</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page124">Mary Magdalene
124</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">145</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massa">Massa 223</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page341">Maurin 341</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#mayres">Mayres 94</a>, <a class
= "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_M2" id = "index_M2" href =
"#index">Me–Mons</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#meana">Meana 291</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page331">Meije 331</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#melun">Melun 2</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page287">Menthon 287</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">392c</span>
<a name = "page392c" id = "page392c"> </a>
<!-- png 453 -->
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton">Menton 193</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#annonciade"><ins class =
"correction" title = "spelled ‘Annonciade’ in main text">Annunciata</ins> 196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_banks">Banks
194</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bennet_garden">Bennet garden
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Berceau 196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_cabs">Cabs 194</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cape_st_martin">Cape St.
Martin 195</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellar">Castellar
196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellon">Castellon <ins
class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘197’">199</ins></a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page195">Caves 195</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_churches">Churches
194</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_ciotti">Ciotti
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_climate">Climate
199</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gorbio"><ins class =
"correction" title = "spelled ‘Gorbio’ in main text">Gorvio</ins>
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page197">Gourg-d’Ora
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_grimaldi">Grimaldi
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hanbury_grounds">Hanbury
grounds 197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_hotels">Hotels
193</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Mont Baudon
196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monti">Monti 198</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_mortola">Mortola
197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnese
196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page197"> (village) 197</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pont_st_louis">St. Louis
196</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">to Genoa 199</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#meounes">Meounes
129</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meursault">Meursault 24</a></p>
<p><a href = "#meymac">Meymac 386</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues
80</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Meze 76</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page84">Mezillac 84</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page338">Mirabeau 338</a></p>
<p><a href = "#mirabouc">Mirabouc 306</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#miramas">Miramas 76</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#miramas_to_portbouc"> to Port Bouc 76</a></p>
<p><a href = "#modane">Modane 290</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#modane_to_susa"> by road to Susa 290</a></p>
<p><a href = "#modena">Modena 313</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page314">Campanile 314</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#modena_cathedral">Cathedral 314</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#modena_library">Library 314</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page315">Museo Lapidario 315</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page314">Picture gallery 314</a></p>
<p><a href = "#moirans">Moirans 324</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco">Monaco 187</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Monastier, Le
85</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví 184</a>,
<a href = "#page304">304</a></p>
<p><a href = "#monestier_de_clermont">Monestier de Clermont 345</a></p>
<p><a href = "#le_monetier">Monètier de Briançon 332</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Monge, Gaspard
23</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier
91</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mons">Mons cave 163</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_M3" id = "index_M3" href =
"#index">Mont–Mu</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page192">Mont Agel
192</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page105"> Aulas 105</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page19"> Auxois 19</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336">
Belledonne 336</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_cenis">
Cenis 290</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span> <span class =
"dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_cenis"> Hospice 290</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page93"> Chenavari 93</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#mont_coudon"> Coudon 128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#mont_coudon_2">125</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#mont_faron"> Faron 127</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">393</span>
<a name = "page393" id = "page393"> </a>
<!-- png 454 -->
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page331">
Ferrand 331</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page333">
Genèvre 333</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page372">
Gergovia 372</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page79"> Grand Sambiu 79</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page96"> Gravenne 96</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page305">
Meidassa 305</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#mont_mezenc"> Mezenc 85</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux">
Pelvoux 345</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a>, <a href =
"#page344">344</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> Pilat
348</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page291">
Pirchiriano 291</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page278"> Protomagno 278</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#pic_sancy">
Sancy 381</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page287">
Semnoz 287</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329">
Taillefer 329</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#mont_ventoux"> Ventoux 57</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page56">56</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page96"> Vestide 96</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> Viso 344</a>, <a href =
"#page305">305</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Montagnac 88</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page281">Montallieu 281</a></p>
<p><a href = "#montargis">Montargis 351</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Montauroux
162</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montbard">Montbard 18</a></p>
<p><a href = "#montbrison">Montbrison 349</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montchanin">Montchanin
25</a></p>
<p><a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to Issoire 385</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin 343</a>, <a href =
"#page306">306</a>, <a href = "#page307">307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> to Saluzzo 344</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco_monte_carlo">Monte
Carlo 189</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#monte_carlo_stn">192</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page210">Monte Grosso
210</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montelimart">Montélimart
48</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montereau">Montereau 10</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montgeron">Montgeron 2</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montmajour">Mont-Majour
71</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montmelian_desc">Montmélian
167</a>, <a href = "#montmelian_stn">289</a>, <a href =
"#page338">338</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier">Montpellier
73</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_botanic">École de
Médecine 74</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_fabre">Musée Fabre
74</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">to Palavas 75</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpezat">Montpezat 96</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montrieux">Montrieux
129</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret 10</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Mornas 46</a></p>
<p><a href = "#moulins">Moulins 355</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#les_moulins">, Les 190</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Ste. Marie 167</a></p>
<p><a href = "#moutiers">Moutiers on Doron 320</a></p>
<p><a href = "#la_mure_1">Mure, La 334</a>, <a href =
"#la_mure_2">342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#murols">Murols 382</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_N" id = "index_N" href = "#index">N–Ne</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page64">Napoleon I. 64</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#napoule">Napoule
156</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Narce 89</a>, <a class
= "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">94</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Nervi 219</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page374">Neussargues 374</a></p>
<p><a href = "#nevers">Nevers 353</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#neyrac_les_bains">Neyrac
94</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_N2" id = "index_N2" href = "#index">Nice</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice">Nice 169</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Banks 172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Booksellers
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cabs">Cabs 173</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Cafés 172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Carabacél 177</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#caterina_segurana">Caterina
Segurana 176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Cathedral 176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page175">Château, Le
175</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Churches
173</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cimies">Cimiés 177</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_climate">Climate
174</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Clubs 172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Column 177</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Confectioneries 173</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#contes">Contes 174</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#nice_croix_marbre">Crois-de-Marbre 177</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_diligences">Diligences
173</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_drives">Drives
178</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Falicon 180</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Garibaldi 176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_hotels">Hotels and
Pensions 170</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">House agents
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Jardin Public
178</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Nice—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Luther 176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_massena">Massena
177</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_memorial_chapel">Memorial
chapel 176</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">393b</span>
<a name = "page393b" id = "page393b"> </a>
<!-- png 454 -->
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Money-changers
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page179">Mont Chauve
179</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Monte Carlo
178</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Museum 178</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_observatory">Observatory
180</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Paganini 176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Palais de Lascaris
176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Pharmacies
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Post office
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_promenade">Promenade
175</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Protestant
churches 173</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page172">Public library
172</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grotte_st_andre">St. André
179</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">St. Augustin
176</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">St. Jean 178</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_pons">St. Pons 179</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#val_obscur">Val Obscur
178</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallon_fleurs">Vallon des
Fleurs 179</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallons">Vallons 174</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_villa_clery">Villa Clery
179</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche
184</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">178</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_N3" id = "index_N3" href =
"#index">Nicholas–Ny</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Nicholas V.
221</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Nieigles 95</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">Nîmes 101</a>, <a href =
"#nimes_stn">376</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#nimes_to_millau"> to Vigan 105</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Nolay 24</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#noli">Noli 209</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#novi">Novi 279</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nuits">Nuits 23</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#nuits_sous_ravieres">Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nyons">Nyons 50</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#nyons_to_serres"> to Serres 51</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_O" id = "index_O" href = "#index">O</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum left">393c</span>
<a name = "page393c" id = "page393c"> </a>
<!-- png 454 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Olbon 83</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Olliergues 91</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Ollioules
123</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive tree
138</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#orange">Orange 51</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#prince_orange"> Prince of 52</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#orcival">Orcival 380</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Orgon 66</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ortolans">Ortolans 56</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ospedaletti">Ospedaletti
202</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p>
<p><a href = "#oulx">Oulx 291</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ours_mons">Ours-Mons 88</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_P" id = "index_P" href = "#index">P–Pi</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Palavas 75</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Paradisino
278</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial 27</a></p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne
346</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles 1</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> Directions 1</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"> to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes
351</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles by Lyons 1</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#paris_to_turin"> to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#paris_to_modane_lyons"> to Turin by Grenoble 322</a></p>
<p><a href = "#parma">Parma 310</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page313">Parmesan cheese 313</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pas_des_lanciers">Pas-des-Lanciers 376</a>, <a class =
"paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page88">88</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegli">Pegli 211</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pelago 278</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Pelussin 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Perinaldo
201</a></p>
<p><a href = "#perosa">Perosa 307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#perosa_to_cesanne"> to Cesanne 307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont-Dauphin 307</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pertuis">Pertuis 338</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#pertuis_2">77</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#petite_afrique">Petite
Afrique 186</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_petrarch">Petrarch
65</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrebelle">Peyerbelle 95</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyraud">Peyraud 81</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrolles">Peyrolles 79</a></p>
<p><a href = "#piacenza">Piacenza 309</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pian_fiorenza">Pian Fiorenza 308</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#pian_del_re">
del Ré 308</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page334">Pierre-Chatel 334</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pierrefeu">Pierrefeu
130</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pietrasanta">Pietrasanta
223</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pigna">Pigna 201</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pinerolo">Pinerolo 306</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa">Pisa 223</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_baptistery">Baptistery
225</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Cabs 224</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_campo_santo">Campo Santo
225</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_cathedral">Cathedral
224</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">Hotels 223</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_leaning_tower">Leaning
Tower 225</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">394</span>
<a name = "page394" id = "page394"> </a>
<!-- png 455 -->
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Post office
224</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_sta_maria">Santa Maria
226</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page226">University
226</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja
231</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_P2" id = "index_P2" href =
"#index">Po–Pu</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Polignac 89</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page307">Pomaretto 307</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pomponiana">Pomponiana
143</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Pontaix 47</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pontassieve">Pontassieve
277</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pont_avignon">Pont Avignon
99</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#pont_darc"> d’Arc 97</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page95"> de-la-Beaune 95</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#pont_du_gard"> du-Gard 104</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329">
Ecofier 329</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page377">
Gibaud 377</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#pont_st_esprit"> St. Esprit 98</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pontcharra">Pontcharra 337</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Pontigny 16</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Pontius Pilate
43</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porquerolles">Porquerolles
131</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#port_bouc">Port Bouc 76</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span> <span class =
"dash">——</span> <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#port_bouc_to_arles"> to Arles 76</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#port_cros"> Cros 132</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page73"> Grau du Roi 73</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#port_man"> Man 132</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#port_st_louis"> St. Louis 72</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porto_maurizio">Porto
Maurizio 207</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#oneglia"> Oneglia 208</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page220"> Venere 220</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Portofino
220</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pougues_les_eaux">Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pouilly_sur_loire">Pouilly-sur-Loire 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Pourcheyrolles
95</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Pouzin 92</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page211">Pra 211</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Pradelles 89</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">95</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#prades">Prades (Ardèche)
95</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#prato">Prato 232</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page289">Praz 289</a></p>
<p><a href = "#pre_st_didier">Pré-St Didier 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Prices
109</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#privas">Privas 92</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">Puget, Pierre
80</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#puget_theniers">Puget-Theniers 182</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Puligny 24</a></p>
<p><a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome 372</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_Q" id = "index_Q" href = "#index">Q</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#queyras"><span class = "smallcaps">Queyras</span>
344</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Quincy abbey 18</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_R" id = "index_R" href = "#index">R</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#randan"><span class = "smallcaps">Randan</span> 366</a>,
<a href = "#page368">368</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#rapallo">Rapallo
220</a></p>
<p><a href = "#reggio_emilia">Reggio Emilia 313</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#remoulins">Remoulins 99</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#resin_baths">Resin baths
57</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">48</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rians">Rians 79</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riez">Riez 166</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">168</a></p>
<p><a href = "#riom">Riom 369</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page329">Riouperoux 329</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Rioutort 96</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">394b</span>
<a name = "page394b" id = "page394b"> </a>
<!-- png 455 -->
<p><a href = "#ris">Ris 367</a></p>
<p><a href = "#rives">Rives 323</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Riviera, the 107</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_climate">Climate
108</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Cost of
living 109</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#to_riviera">road to 1</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_vegetation">Vegetation
108</a></p>
<p><a href = "#roanne">Roanne 346</a>, <a href = "#page348">348</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Robilante
183</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page160">Rocavignon
160</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#la_roche_cevins">Roche Cevins 320</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rochemaure">Rochemaure
92</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roche_blanche"><ins class =
"correction" title = "written ‘Roche-Blanche’ in main text">Rocher
Blanc</ins> 164</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#rocher_noir"> Noir 165</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">Rognac 77</a>, <a href
= "#page376">376</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page77"> to Aix-en-Provence 77</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page77"> to Roquefavour 77</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#romaneche">Romaneche 28</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Roquebillère
181</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roquebrune">Roquebrune
192</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour
aqueduct 77</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquemaure">Roquemaure
99</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Roquotaillado
tunnel 162</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Rosans 51</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">Roumoulles
168</a></p>
<p><a href = "#chambery_rousseau">Rousseau, J. J. 288</a>, <a href =
"#page287">287</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Rouvray 16</a></p>
<p><a href = "#royat">Royat 376</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">Ruoms 96</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Ruota 201</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_S" id = "index_S" href = "#index">S–St.
N</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Saillans 47</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page348">Sail-les-Bains 348</a></p>
<p><a href = "#saincaize">Saincaize 355</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page358">St. Agnan 358</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnes
131</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page348">St. Alban 348</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">St. Ambroix 96</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_andre_le_gaz">St. André-le-Gaz 322</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#st_andre_le_gaz"> to Chambery 322</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban 339</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page166">166</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ste_baume">St. Baume (Agay)
147</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page144"> (Bouches du Rhône) 144</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">St. Bernard 27</a>,
<a href = "#page287">287</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">St. Cannat 79</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_cesaire">St. Cesaire
162</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_chamas">St. Chamas 76</a>,
<a href = "#page376">376</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_christophe">St. Christophe 330</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Cyre
123</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_didier">St. Didier
57</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">St. Edmund 17</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_etienne">St. Etienne 346</a>, <a href =
"#page349">349</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#st_etienne">manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and
ribbons 346</a>, <a href = "#page347">347</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ste_eulalie">St. Eulalie
96</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_florentin">St. Florentin
16</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page16"> to Chablis 16</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#st_galmier">St. Galmier 346</a>, <a href =
"#st_galmier_desc">348</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">394c</span>
<a name = "page394c" id = "page394c"> </a>
<!-- png 455 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_georges_daurac">St.
Georges-d’Aurac 91</a>, <a href = "#st_georges_daurac_stn">374</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page321">St. Germain 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_germain_mont_dor">St.
Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St. Germain-des-Fossés 358</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">St. Gilles
72</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat
158</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page354">St. Honoré baths 354</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">St. Honoré-les-Bains
25</a>, <a href = "#page354">354</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#port_st_jean">St. Jean
185</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page106">St. Jean du Bruel
106</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page13">St. Julien-du-Sault
13</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">St. Louis (king)
73</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Marcel caves
98</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_marcellin">St. Marcellin 324</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_marcellin">
to Pont-en-Royan, 324</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">St. Marguerite
157</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_mart">St. Mart 377</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Martin 98</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_martin_lantosque">St.
Martin-Lantosque 181</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">St. Maurice 2</a>,
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">50</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_maximin">St. Maximin
143</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">St. May 51</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page122">St. Menet
122</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_michel">St. <ins class = "correction"
title = "spelled ‘Michel’ in main text">Michael</ins> (Mont Cenis) 289</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Nazaire
123</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_nectaire">St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_S2" id = "index_S2" href = "#index">St.
P–San</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#st_pardoux">St. Pardoux 357</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">St. Paul-Trois-Château
50</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_peray">St. Péray 82</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">wine 82</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">St. Pêre 15</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#st_pierre_dalbigny"> to Annecy 289</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"> to Courmayeur 320</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">St. Pierre-d’Argenson
48</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_pierreville">St. Pierreville
83</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">St. Pilon
144</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page341">St. Pons 341</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_priest">St. Priest 322</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">St. Privat 91</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_rambert">St. Rambert-d’Albon
43</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_raphael">St. Raphael
147</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_remi_en_rollat">St. Remi-en-Rollat 368</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_remy">St. Remy 67</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_sauveur">St. Sauveur
83</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">St. Seine 19</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">St. Thomé 97</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_tropez">St. Tropez
145</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_vallier">St. Vallier
165</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">43</a></p>
<p><a href = "#st_yorre">St. Yorre 366</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Salon 66</a></p>
<p><a href = "#saluzzo">Saluzzo 307</a>, <a href =
"#page344">344</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#saluzzo"> to
Cuneo 307</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 308</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page308"> to
Paesana 308</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page308"> to
Sampeyre 308</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">395</span>
<a name = "page395" id = "page395"> </a>
<!-- png 456 -->
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Sampierdarena
212</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page291">San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page308">San Chiaffredo 308</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page308">San Dalmazzo 308</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_giuliano">San Giuliano
227</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo">San Remo
203</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_cabs">Cabs
203</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ceriana">Ceriana 204</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_climate">Climate
204</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_hotels">Hotels
203</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#madonna_della_guardia">Madonna
205</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monte_bignone">Monte Bignone
205</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#poggio"><ins class =
"correction" title = "text reads ‘Poggia’">Poggio</ins> 204</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_romolo">St. Romolo
205</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#san_remo_to_taggia"> to Taggia 207</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">San Stefano
207</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">San Terenzo
221</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page352">Sancerre 352</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#santa_margherita">Santa
Margherita 220</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_S3" id = "index_S3" href =
"#index">Saou–Su</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#saou">Saou 46</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sarzana">Sarzana
221</a></p>
<p><a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage 327</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Sauclières 105</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Saugues 91</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Saulieu 16</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page373">Saut-du-Loup 373</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Savigny 24</a></p>
<p><a href = "#savines">Savines 343</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona">Savona 209</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_sea_bathing">Sea
bathing 110</a></p>
<p><a href = "#sechilienne">Séchilienne 329</a></p>
<p><a href = "#seez">Seez 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#seine_source">Seine, source of
19</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#semur">Semur 16</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#senez">Senez 166</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens">Sens 10</a></p>
<p><a href = "#sept_laux">Sept Laux 337</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sermizelles">Sermizelles
15</a></p>
<p><a href = "#serres">Serres 340</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page51">51</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Serrières 81</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Sestri Levante
220</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#sestri_ponente"> Ponente 212</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#settignano">Settignano
277</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Seyne-les-Alpes 339</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Shelley 221</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">223</a></p>
<p><a href = "#sisteron">Sisteron 339</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#six_fours">Six-Fours
123</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sollies_pont">Solliès-Pont
142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">129</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Solliès-Ville
129</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sorgues">Sorgues 54</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sospel"><ins class =
"correction" title = "written ‘Sospel’ in main text">Sospello</ins>
182</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#loire_source">Source of the
Loire 84</a></p>
<p><a href = "#souvigny">Souvigny 356</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#spezia">Spezia 220</a></p>
<p><a href = "#steam_trams">Steam trams 304</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Sue du Pal 96</a></p>
<p><a href = "#susa">Susa 291</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Suze-le-Rousse
50</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_T" id = "index_T" href =
"#index">T–Turbie</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum left">395b</span>
<a name = "page395b" id = "page395b"> </a>
<!-- png 456 -->
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#taggia"><span class =
"smallcaps">Taggia</span> 207</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page206">206</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tain">Tain 43</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page286">Talloires 286</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tanlay">Tanlay 17</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">Tarascon 66</a>,
<a href = "#tarascon_stn">376</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Martha’s grave 67</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Taulignan 49</a></p>
<p><a href = "#les_tavernettes">Tavernettes, Les 290</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Teil 93</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page282">Tenay 282</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#tenda">Tenda 183</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page290">Termignon 290</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Theoule
155</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Thezièrs 99</a></p>
<p><a href = "#thiers">Thiers 367</a>, <a href = "#thiers_2">350</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page10">Thomery 10</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#thueyts">Thueyts 94</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page321">Thuile 321</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre 17</a></p>
<p><a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Péllice 305</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 306</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Toulon 124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_arsenal">Arsenal
125</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page125">Bagne 125</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Balaguier 127</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Belle-Poule
124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Cap Brun 128</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_cathedral">Cathedral
126</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Dardenne 128</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Toulon—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_diligences">Diligences
129</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Hotels 124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Le Pradet 128</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Le Tamaris
127</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mont_faron">Mont Faron
127</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_omnibus">Omnibuses
128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#toulon_place_puget">124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_quai_port">Port, the
124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Puget’s house
126</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Rue Lafayette
126</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">St. François de Paule
126</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_mandrier">St. Mandrier
127</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">St. Marguerite
128</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Smith, Sir Sydney
126</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Temple Protestant
124</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_town_hall">Town Hall
126</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page322">Tour-du-Pin 322</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournon">Tournon 82</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournus">Tournus 26</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Trayas, Le
148</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trets">Trets 144</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Trévoux 29</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#trinite_victor">Trinité-Victor 182</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troy_weight">Troy weight
13</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troyes">Troyes 11</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#truffles">Truffles 55</a></p>
<p><a href = "#tulle">Tulle 386</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_turbie">Turbie, La
192</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page191">191</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_T2" id = "index_T2" href = "#index">Turin</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<span class = "pagenum left">395c</span>
<a name = "page395c" id = "page395c"> </a>
<!-- png 456 -->
<p><a href = "#turin">Turin 292</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page300">Accademia Albertina 300</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_armoury">Armoury 297</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page297">Biblioteca del Ré 297</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Booksellers 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_cabs">Cabs 292</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page293">Cafés 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_castello">Castello, the 299</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_cathedral">Cathedral 298</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_sights">Cavour house 294</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#turin_monuments">
monument 301</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_cemetery">Cemetery 302</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_madre_di_dio">Gran Madre di Dio 300</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page303">Gressini 303</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_hotels">Hotels 292</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_royal_palace">King’s palace 298</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_la_consolata">La Consolata 301</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page297">Medagliere del Ré 297</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Money-changers 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_monuments">Monuments 301</a>, <a href =
"#turin_stations">293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_museo_civico">Museo Civico 299</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_pal_accademia">Museum of antiquities and picture
gallery 294</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Museum of zoology and mineralogy
297</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>Turin—</p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano 297</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#turin_sights">
dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page301"> di Citta
301</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page293">Piazza Carlo Felice 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page293"> dello
Statuto 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page293"> San
Carlo 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#turin_piazza_vitt_em"> Vitt. Emanuele 300</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_post">Post and telegraph offices 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_stations">Railway stations 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_la_superga">Superga, La 302</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#page298">Teatro Regio 298</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_theatres">Theatres 293</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">to Cuneo 153</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_to_florence">to Florence 309</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa
279</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">to Savona
183</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_cabs">Trams 292</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_university">University 300</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_via_po">Via di Po 300</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#turin_wines">Wines 303</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_U" id = "index_U" href = "#index">U</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page341"><span class = "smallcaps">Ubaye</span>
341</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page336">Uriage baths 336</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Usclades 96</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#uzes">Uzès 99</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_V" id = "index_V" href = "#index">V–Ve</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaison"><span class =
"smallcaps">Vaison</span> 53</a></p>
<p><a href = "#val_louise">Val Louise 333</a>, <a href =
"#val_louise_2">345</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">Valbonne 98</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">396</span>
<a name = "page396" id = "page396"> </a>
<!-- png 457 -->
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#valdieri">Valdieri 181</a>,
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valence">Valence 44</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches from 45</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris
154</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valleraugue">Valleraugue
105</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallombrosa">Vallombrosa
278</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vallon">Vallon 97</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valreas">Valréas 49</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vals">Vals 93</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#var">Var 169</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#varazze">Varazze
210</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#varennes">Varennes 26</a></p>
<p><a href = "#varzy">Varzy 354</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page381">Vassivières 381</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaucluse">Vaucluse 64</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Vaugris 43</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#velars">Velars 20</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Venanson
181</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence">Vence 163</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes
169</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vencigliato">Vencigliato
277</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page330">Venosc 330</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ventimiglia">Ventimiglia
200</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Vernet 91</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span> (<a href =
"#page339">Digne) 339</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum">396b</span>
<a name = "page396b" id = "page396b"> </a>
<!-- png 457 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#verrey">Verrey 19</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">Vesseaux 93</a></p>
<p><a href = "#veynes">Veynes 340</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vezelay">Vezelay 15</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_V2" id = "index_V2" href =
"#index">Vi–Vo</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#viareggio">Viareggio
223</a></p>
<p><a href = "#vichy">Vichy 359</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vienne">Vienne 42</a></p>
<p><a href = "#vif">Vif 345</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vigan">Vigan 105</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#page105"> to Millau 105</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villa_pallavicini">Villa
Pallavicini 211</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page331">Villard-d’Arène 331</a></p>
<p><a href = "#villefort">Villefort 375</a></p>
<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href =
"#bagnols_les_bains"> to Bagnol-les-Bains 375</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche
184</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#villefranche_saone">Villefranche-sur-Saône 29</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Villeperdrix 51</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page344">Ville-la-Vieille 344</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#villeneuve_avignon">Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Hospital 63</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Marchioness de Ganges
63</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#villeneuve_george">Villeneuve-St. George 2</a></p>
<span class = "pagenum left">396c</span>
<a name = "page396c" id = "page396c"> </a>
<!-- png 457 -->
<p><a class = "paris" href =
"paris.html#villeneuve_yonne">Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Vinadio 183</a>,
<a href = "#page342">342</a></p>
<p><a href = "#virieu">Virieu 322</a></p>
<p><a href = "#virieu_le_grand">Virieu-le-Grand 282</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#viviers">Viviers 97</a></p>
<p><a href = "#vizille_1">Vizille 345</a>, <a href =
"#vizille_2">328</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p>
<p><a href = "#voghera">Voghera 309</a></p>
<p><a href = "#voiron">Voiron 323</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#voiron">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323</a></p>
<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#voltri">Voltri 211</a></p>
<p><a href = "#volvic">Volvic 377</a>, <a href =
"#volvic_desc">369</a></p>
<p><a href = "#page339">Volx 339</a></p>
<p><a href = "#voreppe">Voreppe 324</a></p>
<p class = "inset">
<a href = "#voreppe">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vougeot">Vougeot 23</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">Voulte, La
82</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Voute-Chilhac
91</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
<a name = "index_W" id = "index_W" href = "#index">W</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p><a href = "#waldensian_doctrines"><span class =
"smallcaps">Waldenses, or Vaudois</span> 305</a></p>
<p><a href = "#waldenses">Waldensian valleys 304</a></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><a href = "#page286">Warrens, Mme. 286</a>, <a href =
"#page288">288</a></p>
<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Wellington 2</a></p>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p> <br> </p>
<h6>THE END.</h6>
<p> <br> </p>
<p class = "center">
<i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. & R. Clark</span>,
Edinburgh.</i></p>
</body>
</html>
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