1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
534
535
536
537
538
539
540
541
542
543
544
545
546
547
548
549
550
551
552
553
554
555
556
557
558
559
560
561
562
563
564
565
566
567
568
569
570
571
572
573
574
575
576
577
578
579
580
581
582
583
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
591
592
593
594
595
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
603
604
605
606
607
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
615
616
617
618
619
620
621
622
623
624
625
626
627
628
629
630
631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639
640
641
642
643
644
645
646
647
648
649
650
651
652
653
654
655
656
657
658
659
660
661
662
663
664
665
666
667
668
669
670
671
672
673
674
675
676
677
678
679
680
681
682
683
684
685
686
687
688
689
690
691
692
693
694
695
696
697
698
699
700
701
702
703
704
705
706
707
708
709
710
711
712
713
714
715
716
717
718
719
720
721
722
723
724
725
726
727
728
729
730
731
732
733
734
735
736
737
738
739
740
741
742
743
744
745
746
747
748
749
750
751
752
753
754
755
756
757
758
759
760
761
762
763
764
765
766
767
768
769
770
771
772
773
774
775
776
777
778
779
780
781
782
783
784
785
786
787
788
789
790
791
792
793
794
795
796
797
798
799
800
801
802
803
804
805
806
807
808
809
810
811
812
813
814
815
816
817
818
819
820
821
822
823
824
825
826
827
828
829
830
831
832
833
834
835
836
837
838
839
840
841
842
843
844
845
846
847
848
849
850
851
852
853
854
855
856
857
858
859
860
861
862
863
864
865
866
867
868
869
870
871
872
873
874
875
876
877
878
879
880
881
882
883
884
885
886
887
888
889
890
891
892
893
894
895
896
897
898
899
900
901
902
903
904
905
906
907
908
909
910
911
912
913
914
915
916
917
918
919
920
921
922
923
924
925
926
927
928
929
930
931
932
933
934
935
936
937
938
939
940
941
942
943
944
945
946
947
948
949
950
951
952
953
954
955
956
957
958
959
960
961
962
963
964
965
966
967
968
969
970
971
972
973
974
975
976
977
978
979
980
981
982
983
984
985
986
987
988
989
990
991
992
993
994
995
996
997
998
999
1000
1001
1002
1003
1004
1005
1006
1007
1008
1009
1010
1011
1012
1013
1014
1015
1016
1017
1018
1019
1020
1021
1022
1023
1024
1025
1026
1027
1028
1029
1030
1031
1032
1033
1034
1035
1036
1037
1038
1039
1040
1041
1042
1043
1044
1045
1046
1047
1048
1049
1050
1051
1052
1053
1054
1055
1056
1057
1058
1059
1060
1061
1062
1063
1064
1065
1066
1067
1068
1069
1070
1071
1072
1073
1074
1075
1076
1077
1078
1079
1080
1081
1082
1083
1084
1085
1086
1087
1088
1089
1090
1091
1092
1093
1094
1095
1096
1097
1098
1099
1100
1101
1102
1103
1104
1105
1106
1107
1108
1109
1110
1111
1112
1113
1114
1115
1116
1117
1118
1119
1120
1121
1122
1123
1124
1125
1126
1127
1128
1129
1130
1131
1132
1133
1134
1135
1136
1137
1138
1139
1140
1141
1142
1143
1144
1145
1146
1147
1148
1149
1150
1151
1152
1153
1154
1155
1156
1157
1158
1159
1160
1161
1162
1163
1164
1165
1166
1167
1168
1169
1170
1171
1172
1173
1174
1175
1176
1177
1178
1179
1180
1181
1182
1183
1184
1185
1186
1187
1188
1189
1190
1191
1192
1193
1194
1195
1196
1197
1198
1199
1200
1201
1202
1203
1204
1205
1206
1207
1208
1209
1210
1211
1212
1213
1214
1215
1216
1217
1218
1219
1220
1221
1222
1223
1224
1225
1226
1227
1228
1229
1230
1231
1232
1233
1234
1235
1236
1237
1238
1239
1240
1241
1242
1243
1244
1245
1246
1247
1248
1249
1250
1251
1252
1253
1254
1255
1256
1257
1258
1259
1260
1261
1262
1263
1264
1265
1266
1267
1268
1269
1270
1271
1272
1273
1274
1275
1276
1277
1278
1279
1280
1281
1282
1283
1284
1285
1286
1287
1288
1289
1290
1291
1292
1293
1294
1295
1296
1297
1298
1299
1300
1301
1302
1303
1304
1305
1306
1307
1308
1309
1310
1311
1312
1313
1314
1315
1316
1317
1318
1319
1320
1321
1322
1323
1324
1325
1326
1327
1328
1329
1330
1331
1332
1333
1334
1335
1336
1337
1338
1339
1340
1341
1342
1343
1344
1345
1346
1347
1348
1349
1350
1351
1352
1353
1354
1355
1356
1357
1358
1359
1360
1361
1362
1363
1364
1365
1366
1367
1368
1369
1370
1371
1372
1373
1374
1375
1376
1377
1378
1379
1380
1381
1382
1383
1384
1385
1386
1387
1388
1389
1390
1391
1392
1393
1394
1395
1396
1397
1398
1399
1400
1401
1402
1403
1404
1405
1406
1407
1408
1409
1410
1411
1412
1413
1414
1415
1416
1417
1418
1419
1420
1421
1422
1423
1424
1425
1426
1427
1428
1429
1430
1431
1432
1433
1434
1435
1436
1437
1438
1439
1440
1441
1442
1443
1444
1445
1446
1447
1448
1449
1450
1451
1452
1453
1454
1455
1456
1457
1458
1459
1460
1461
1462
1463
1464
1465
1466
1467
1468
1469
1470
1471
1472
1473
1474
1475
1476
1477
1478
1479
1480
1481
1482
1483
1484
1485
1486
1487
1488
1489
1490
1491
1492
1493
1494
1495
1496
1497
1498
1499
1500
1501
1502
1503
1504
1505
1506
1507
1508
1509
1510
1511
1512
1513
1514
1515
1516
1517
1518
1519
1520
1521
1522
1523
1524
1525
1526
1527
1528
1529
1530
1531
1532
1533
1534
1535
1536
1537
1538
1539
1540
1541
1542
1543
1544
1545
1546
1547
1548
1549
1550
1551
1552
1553
1554
1555
1556
1557
1558
1559
1560
1561
1562
1563
1564
1565
1566
1567
1568
1569
1570
1571
1572
1573
1574
1575
1576
1577
1578
1579
1580
1581
1582
1583
1584
1585
1586
1587
1588
1589
1590
1591
1592
1593
1594
1595
1596
1597
1598
1599
1600
1601
1602
1603
1604
1605
1606
1607
1608
1609
1610
1611
1612
1613
1614
1615
1616
1617
1618
1619
1620
1621
1622
1623
1624
1625
1626
1627
1628
1629
1630
1631
1632
1633
1634
1635
1636
1637
1638
1639
1640
1641
1642
1643
1644
1645
1646
1647
1648
1649
1650
1651
1652
1653
1654
1655
1656
1657
1658
1659
1660
1661
1662
1663
1664
1665
1666
1667
1668
1669
1670
1671
1672
1673
1674
1675
1676
1677
1678
1679
1680
1681
1682
1683
1684
1685
1686
1687
1688
1689
1690
1691
1692
1693
1694
1695
1696
1697
1698
1699
1700
1701
1702
1703
1704
1705
1706
1707
1708
1709
1710
1711
1712
1713
1714
1715
1716
1717
1718
1719
1720
1721
1722
1723
1724
1725
1726
1727
1728
1729
1730
1731
1732
1733
1734
1735
1736
1737
1738
1739
1740
1741
1742
1743
1744
1745
1746
1747
1748
1749
1750
1751
1752
1753
1754
1755
1756
1757
1758
1759
1760
1761
1762
1763
1764
1765
1766
1767
1768
1769
1770
1771
1772
1773
1774
1775
1776
1777
1778
1779
1780
1781
1782
1783
1784
1785
1786
1787
1788
1789
1790
1791
1792
1793
1794
1795
1796
1797
1798
1799
1800
1801
1802
1803
1804
1805
1806
1807
1808
1809
1810
1811
1812
1813
1814
1815
1816
1817
1818
1819
1820
1821
1822
1823
1824
1825
1826
1827
1828
1829
1830
1831
1832
1833
1834
1835
1836
1837
1838
1839
1840
1841
1842
1843
1844
1845
1846
1847
1848
1849
1850
1851
1852
1853
1854
1855
1856
1857
1858
1859
1860
1861
1862
1863
1864
1865
1866
1867
1868
1869
1870
1871
1872
1873
1874
1875
1876
1877
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882
1883
1884
1885
1886
1887
1888
1889
1890
1891
1892
1893
1894
1895
1896
1897
1898
1899
1900
1901
1902
1903
1904
1905
1906
1907
1908
1909
1910
1911
1912
1913
1914
1915
1916
1917
1918
1919
1920
1921
1922
1923
1924
1925
1926
1927
1928
1929
1930
1931
1932
1933
1934
1935
1936
1937
1938
1939
1940
1941
1942
1943
1944
1945
1946
1947
1948
1949
1950
1951
1952
1953
1954
1955
1956
1957
1958
1959
1960
1961
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966
1967
1968
1969
1970
1971
1972
1973
1974
1975
1976
1977
1978
1979
1980
1981
1982
1983
1984
1985
1986
1987
1988
1989
1990
1991
1992
1993
1994
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024
2025
2026
2027
2028
2029
2030
2031
2032
2033
2034
2035
2036
2037
2038
2039
2040
2041
2042
2043
2044
2045
2046
2047
2048
2049
2050
2051
2052
2053
2054
2055
2056
2057
2058
2059
2060
2061
2062
2063
2064
2065
2066
2067
2068
2069
2070
2071
2072
2073
2074
2075
2076
2077
2078
2079
2080
2081
2082
2083
2084
2085
2086
2087
2088
2089
2090
2091
2092
2093
2094
2095
2096
2097
2098
2099
2100
2101
2102
2103
2104
2105
2106
2107
2108
2109
2110
2111
2112
2113
2114
2115
2116
2117
2118
2119
2120
2121
2122
2123
2124
2125
2126
2127
2128
2129
2130
2131
2132
2133
2134
2135
2136
2137
2138
2139
2140
2141
2142
2143
2144
2145
2146
2147
2148
2149
2150
2151
2152
2153
2154
2155
2156
2157
2158
2159
2160
2161
2162
2163
2164
2165
2166
2167
2168
2169
2170
2171
2172
2173
2174
2175
2176
2177
2178
2179
2180
2181
2182
2183
2184
2185
2186
2187
2188
2189
2190
2191
2192
2193
2194
2195
2196
2197
2198
2199
2200
2201
2202
2203
2204
2205
2206
2207
2208
2209
2210
2211
2212
2213
2214
2215
2216
2217
2218
2219
2220
2221
2222
2223
2224
2225
2226
2227
2228
2229
2230
2231
2232
2233
2234
2235
2236
2237
2238
2239
2240
2241
2242
2243
2244
2245
2246
2247
2248
2249
2250
2251
2252
2253
2254
2255
2256
2257
2258
2259
2260
2261
2262
2263
2264
2265
2266
2267
2268
2269
2270
2271
2272
2273
2274
2275
2276
2277
2278
2279
2280
2281
2282
2283
2284
2285
2286
2287
2288
2289
2290
2291
2292
2293
2294
2295
2296
2297
2298
2299
2300
2301
2302
2303
2304
2305
2306
2307
2308
2309
2310
2311
2312
2313
2314
2315
2316
2317
2318
2319
2320
2321
2322
2323
2324
2325
2326
2327
2328
2329
2330
2331
2332
2333
2334
2335
2336
2337
2338
2339
2340
2341
2342
2343
2344
2345
2346
2347
2348
2349
2350
2351
2352
2353
2354
2355
2356
2357
2358
2359
2360
2361
2362
2363
2364
2365
2366
2367
2368
2369
2370
2371
2372
2373
2374
2375
2376
2377
2378
2379
2380
2381
2382
2383
2384
2385
2386
2387
2388
2389
2390
2391
2392
2393
2394
2395
2396
2397
2398
2399
2400
2401
2402
2403
2404
2405
2406
2407
2408
2409
2410
2411
2412
2413
2414
2415
2416
2417
2418
2419
2420
2421
2422
2423
2424
2425
2426
2427
2428
2429
2430
2431
2432
2433
2434
2435
2436
2437
2438
2439
2440
2441
2442
2443
2444
2445
2446
2447
2448
2449
2450
2451
2452
2453
2454
2455
2456
2457
2458
2459
2460
2461
2462
2463
2464
2465
2466
2467
2468
2469
2470
2471
2472
2473
2474
2475
2476
2477
2478
2479
2480
2481
2482
2483
2484
2485
2486
2487
2488
2489
2490
2491
2492
2493
2494
2495
2496
2497
2498
2499
2500
2501
2502
2503
2504
2505
2506
2507
2508
2509
2510
2511
2512
2513
2514
2515
2516
2517
2518
2519
2520
2521
2522
2523
2524
2525
2526
2527
2528
2529
2530
2531
2532
2533
2534
2535
2536
2537
2538
2539
2540
2541
2542
2543
2544
2545
2546
2547
2548
2549
2550
2551
2552
2553
2554
2555
2556
2557
2558
2559
2560
2561
2562
2563
2564
2565
2566
2567
2568
2569
2570
2571
2572
2573
2574
2575
2576
2577
2578
2579
2580
2581
2582
2583
2584
2585
2586
2587
2588
2589
2590
2591
2592
2593
2594
2595
2596
2597
2598
2599
2600
2601
2602
2603
2604
2605
2606
2607
2608
2609
2610
2611
2612
2613
2614
2615
2616
2617
2618
2619
2620
2621
2622
2623
2624
2625
2626
2627
2628
2629
2630
2631
2632
2633
2634
2635
2636
2637
2638
2639
2640
2641
2642
2643
2644
2645
2646
2647
2648
2649
2650
2651
2652
2653
2654
2655
2656
2657
2658
2659
2660
2661
2662
2663
2664
2665
2666
2667
2668
2669
2670
2671
2672
2673
2674
2675
2676
2677
2678
2679
2680
2681
2682
2683
2684
2685
2686
2687
2688
2689
2690
2691
2692
2693
2694
2695
2696
2697
2698
2699
2700
2701
2702
2703
2704
2705
2706
2707
2708
2709
2710
2711
2712
2713
2714
2715
2716
2717
2718
2719
2720
2721
2722
2723
2724
2725
2726
2727
2728
2729
2730
2731
2732
2733
2734
2735
2736
2737
2738
2739
2740
2741
2742
2743
2744
2745
2746
2747
2748
2749
2750
2751
2752
2753
2754
2755
2756
2757
2758
2759
2760
2761
2762
2763
2764
2765
2766
2767
2768
2769
2770
2771
2772
2773
2774
2775
2776
2777
2778
2779
2780
2781
2782
2783
2784
2785
2786
2787
2788
2789
2790
2791
2792
2793
2794
2795
2796
2797
2798
2799
2800
2801
2802
2803
2804
2805
2806
2807
2808
2809
2810
2811
2812
2813
2814
2815
2816
2817
2818
2819
2820
2821
2822
2823
2824
2825
2826
2827
2828
2829
2830
2831
2832
2833
2834
2835
2836
2837
2838
2839
2840
2841
2842
2843
2844
2845
2846
2847
2848
2849
2850
2851
2852
2853
2854
2855
2856
2857
2858
2859
2860
2861
2862
2863
2864
2865
2866
2867
2868
2869
2870
2871
2872
2873
2874
2875
2876
2877
2878
2879
2880
2881
2882
2883
2884
2885
2886
2887
2888
2889
2890
2891
2892
2893
2894
2895
2896
2897
2898
2899
2900
2901
2902
2903
2904
2905
2906
2907
2908
2909
2910
2911
2912
2913
2914
2915
2916
2917
2918
2919
2920
2921
2922
2923
2924
2925
2926
2927
2928
2929
2930
2931
2932
2933
2934
2935
2936
2937
2938
2939
2940
2941
2942
2943
2944
2945
2946
2947
2948
2949
2950
2951
2952
2953
2954
2955
2956
2957
2958
2959
2960
2961
2962
2963
2964
2965
2966
2967
2968
2969
2970
2971
2972
2973
2974
2975
2976
2977
2978
2979
2980
2981
2982
2983
2984
2985
2986
2987
2988
2989
2990
2991
2992
2993
2994
2995
2996
2997
2998
2999
3000
3001
3002
3003
3004
3005
3006
3007
3008
3009
3010
3011
3012
3013
3014
3015
3016
3017
3018
3019
3020
3021
3022
3023
3024
3025
3026
3027
3028
3029
3030
3031
3032
3033
3034
3035
3036
3037
3038
3039
3040
3041
3042
3043
3044
3045
3046
3047
3048
3049
3050
3051
3052
3053
3054
3055
3056
3057
3058
3059
3060
3061
3062
3063
3064
3065
3066
3067
3068
3069
3070
3071
3072
3073
3074
3075
3076
3077
3078
3079
3080
3081
3082
3083
3084
3085
3086
3087
3088
3089
3090
3091
3092
3093
3094
3095
3096
3097
3098
3099
3100
3101
3102
3103
3104
3105
3106
3107
3108
3109
3110
3111
3112
3113
3114
3115
3116
3117
3118
3119
3120
3121
3122
3123
3124
3125
3126
3127
3128
3129
3130
3131
3132
3133
3134
3135
3136
3137
3138
3139
3140
3141
3142
3143
3144
3145
3146
3147
3148
3149
3150
3151
3152
3153
3154
3155
3156
3157
3158
3159
3160
3161
3162
3163
3164
3165
3166
3167
3168
3169
3170
3171
3172
3173
3174
3175
3176
3177
3178
3179
3180
3181
3182
3183
3184
3185
3186
3187
3188
3189
3190
3191
3192
3193
3194
3195
3196
3197
3198
3199
3200
3201
3202
3203
3204
3205
3206
3207
3208
3209
3210
3211
3212
3213
3214
3215
3216
3217
3218
3219
3220
3221
3222
3223
3224
3225
3226
3227
3228
3229
3230
3231
3232
3233
3234
3235
3236
3237
3238
3239
3240
3241
3242
3243
3244
3245
3246
3247
3248
3249
3250
3251
3252
3253
3254
3255
3256
3257
3258
3259
3260
3261
3262
3263
3264
3265
3266
3267
3268
3269
3270
3271
3272
3273
3274
3275
3276
3277
3278
3279
3280
3281
3282
3283
3284
3285
3286
3287
3288
3289
3290
3291
3292
3293
3294
3295
3296
3297
3298
3299
3300
3301
3302
3303
3304
3305
3306
3307
3308
3309
3310
3311
3312
3313
3314
3315
3316
3317
3318
3319
3320
3321
3322
3323
3324
3325
3326
3327
3328
3329
3330
3331
3332
3333
3334
3335
3336
3337
3338
3339
3340
3341
3342
3343
3344
3345
3346
3347
3348
3349
3350
3351
3352
3353
3354
3355
3356
3357
3358
3359
3360
3361
3362
3363
3364
3365
3366
3367
3368
3369
3370
3371
3372
3373
3374
3375
3376
3377
3378
3379
3380
3381
3382
3383
3384
3385
3386
3387
3388
3389
3390
3391
3392
3393
3394
3395
3396
3397
3398
3399
3400
3401
3402
3403
3404
3405
3406
3407
3408
3409
3410
3411
3412
3413
3414
3415
3416
3417
3418
3419
3420
3421
3422
3423
3424
3425
3426
3427
3428
3429
3430
3431
3432
3433
3434
3435
3436
3437
3438
3439
3440
3441
3442
3443
3444
3445
3446
3447
3448
3449
3450
3451
3452
3453
3454
3455
3456
3457
3458
3459
3460
3461
3462
3463
3464
3465
3466
3467
3468
3469
3470
3471
3472
3473
3474
3475
3476
3477
3478
3479
3480
3481
3482
3483
3484
3485
3486
3487
3488
3489
3490
3491
3492
3493
3494
3495
3496
3497
3498
3499
3500
3501
3502
3503
3504
3505
3506
3507
3508
3509
3510
3511
3512
3513
3514
3515
3516
3517
3518
3519
3520
3521
3522
3523
3524
3525
3526
3527
3528
3529
3530
3531
3532
3533
3534
3535
3536
3537
3538
3539
3540
3541
3542
3543
3544
3545
3546
3547
3548
3549
3550
3551
3552
3553
3554
3555
3556
3557
3558
3559
3560
3561
3562
3563
3564
3565
3566
3567
3568
3569
3570
3571
3572
3573
3574
3575
3576
3577
3578
3579
3580
3581
3582
3583
3584
3585
3586
3587
3588
3589
3590
3591
3592
3593
3594
3595
3596
3597
3598
3599
3600
3601
3602
3603
3604
3605
3606
3607
3608
3609
3610
3611
3612
3613
3614
3615
3616
3617
3618
3619
3620
3621
3622
3623
3624
3625
3626
3627
3628
3629
3630
3631
3632
3633
3634
3635
3636
3637
3638
3639
3640
3641
3642
3643
3644
3645
3646
3647
3648
3649
3650
3651
3652
3653
3654
3655
3656
3657
3658
3659
3660
3661
3662
3663
3664
3665
3666
3667
3668
3669
3670
3671
3672
3673
3674
3675
3676
3677
3678
3679
3680
3681
3682
3683
3684
3685
3686
3687
3688
3689
3690
3691
3692
3693
3694
3695
3696
3697
3698
3699
3700
3701
3702
3703
3704
3705
3706
3707
3708
3709
3710
3711
3712
3713
3714
3715
3716
3717
3718
3719
3720
3721
3722
3723
3724
3725
3726
3727
3728
3729
3730
3731
3732
3733
3734
3735
3736
3737
3738
3739
3740
3741
3742
3743
3744
3745
3746
3747
3748
3749
3750
3751
3752
3753
3754
3755
3756
3757
3758
3759
3760
3761
3762
3763
3764
3765
3766
3767
3768
3769
3770
3771
3772
3773
3774
3775
3776
3777
3778
3779
3780
3781
3782
3783
3784
3785
3786
3787
3788
3789
3790
3791
3792
3793
3794
3795
3796
3797
3798
3799
3800
3801
3802
3803
3804
3805
3806
3807
3808
3809
3810
3811
3812
3813
3814
3815
3816
3817
3818
3819
3820
3821
3822
3823
3824
3825
3826
3827
3828
3829
3830
3831
3832
3833
3834
3835
3836
3837
3838
3839
3840
3841
3842
3843
3844
3845
3846
3847
3848
3849
3850
3851
3852
3853
3854
3855
3856
3857
3858
3859
3860
3861
3862
3863
3864
3865
3866
3867
3868
3869
3870
3871
3872
3873
3874
3875
3876
3877
3878
3879
3880
3881
3882
3883
3884
3885
3886
3887
3888
3889
3890
3891
3892
3893
3894
3895
3896
3897
3898
3899
3900
3901
3902
3903
3904
3905
3906
3907
3908
3909
3910
3911
3912
3913
3914
3915
3916
3917
3918
3919
3920
3921
3922
3923
3924
3925
3926
3927
3928
3929
3930
3931
3932
3933
3934
3935
3936
3937
3938
3939
3940
3941
3942
3943
3944
3945
3946
3947
3948
3949
3950
3951
3952
3953
3954
3955
3956
3957
3958
3959
3960
3961
3962
3963
3964
3965
3966
3967
3968
3969
3970
3971
3972
3973
3974
3975
3976
3977
3978
3979
3980
3981
3982
3983
3984
3985
3986
3987
3988
3989
3990
3991
3992
3993
3994
3995
3996
3997
3998
3999
4000
4001
4002
4003
4004
4005
4006
4007
4008
4009
4010
4011
4012
4013
4014
4015
4016
4017
4018
4019
4020
4021
4022
4023
4024
4025
4026
4027
4028
4029
4030
4031
4032
4033
4034
4035
4036
4037
4038
4039
4040
4041
4042
4043
4044
4045
4046
4047
4048
4049
4050
4051
4052
4053
4054
4055
4056
4057
4058
4059
4060
4061
4062
4063
4064
4065
4066
4067
4068
4069
4070
4071
4072
4073
4074
4075
4076
4077
4078
4079
4080
4081
4082
4083
4084
4085
4086
4087
4088
4089
4090
4091
4092
4093
4094
4095
4096
4097
4098
4099
4100
4101
4102
4103
4104
4105
4106
4107
4108
4109
4110
4111
4112
4113
4114
4115
4116
4117
4118
4119
4120
4121
4122
4123
4124
4125
4126
4127
4128
4129
4130
4131
4132
4133
4134
4135
4136
4137
4138
4139
4140
4141
4142
4143
4144
4145
4146
4147
4148
4149
4150
4151
4152
4153
4154
4155
4156
4157
4158
4159
4160
4161
4162
4163
4164
4165
4166
4167
4168
4169
4170
4171
4172
4173
4174
4175
4176
4177
4178
4179
4180
4181
4182
4183
4184
4185
4186
4187
4188
4189
4190
4191
4192
4193
4194
4195
4196
4197
4198
4199
4200
4201
4202
4203
4204
4205
4206
4207
4208
4209
4210
4211
4212
4213
4214
4215
4216
4217
4218
4219
4220
4221
4222
4223
4224
4225
4226
4227
4228
4229
4230
4231
4232
4233
4234
4235
4236
4237
4238
4239
4240
4241
4242
4243
4244
4245
4246
4247
4248
4249
4250
4251
4252
4253
4254
4255
4256
4257
4258
4259
4260
4261
4262
4263
4264
4265
4266
4267
4268
4269
4270
4271
4272
4273
4274
4275
4276
4277
4278
4279
4280
4281
4282
4283
4284
4285
4286
4287
4288
4289
4290
4291
4292
4293
4294
4295
4296
4297
4298
4299
4300
4301
4302
4303
4304
4305
4306
4307
4308
4309
4310
4311
4312
4313
4314
4315
4316
4317
4318
4319
4320
4321
4322
4323
4324
4325
4326
4327
4328
4329
4330
4331
4332
4333
4334
4335
4336
4337
4338
4339
4340
4341
4342
4343
4344
4345
4346
4347
4348
4349
4350
4351
4352
4353
4354
4355
4356
4357
4358
4359
4360
4361
4362
4363
4364
4365
4366
4367
4368
4369
4370
4371
4372
4373
4374
4375
4376
4377
4378
4379
4380
4381
4382
4383
4384
4385
4386
4387
4388
4389
4390
4391
4392
4393
4394
4395
4396
4397
4398
4399
4400
4401
4402
4403
4404
4405
4406
4407
4408
4409
4410
4411
4412
4413
4414
4415
4416
4417
4418
4419
4420
4421
4422
4423
4424
4425
4426
4427
4428
4429
4430
4431
4432
4433
4434
4435
4436
4437
4438
4439
4440
4441
4442
4443
4444
4445
4446
4447
4448
4449
4450
4451
4452
4453
4454
4455
4456
4457
4458
4459
4460
4461
4462
4463
4464
4465
4466
4467
4468
4469
4470
4471
4472
4473
4474
4475
4476
4477
4478
4479
4480
4481
4482
4483
4484
4485
4486
4487
4488
4489
4490
4491
4492
4493
4494
4495
4496
4497
4498
4499
4500
4501
4502
4503
4504
4505
4506
4507
4508
4509
4510
4511
4512
4513
4514
4515
4516
4517
4518
4519
4520
4521
4522
4523
4524
4525
4526
4527
4528
4529
4530
4531
4532
4533
4534
4535
4536
4537
4538
4539
4540
4541
4542
4543
4544
4545
4546
4547
4548
4549
4550
4551
4552
4553
4554
4555
4556
4557
4558
4559
4560
4561
4562
4563
4564
4565
4566
4567
4568
4569
4570
4571
4572
4573
4574
4575
4576
4577
4578
4579
4580
4581
4582
4583
4584
4585
4586
4587
4588
4589
4590
4591
4592
4593
4594
4595
4596
4597
4598
4599
4600
4601
4602
4603
4604
4605
4606
4607
4608
4609
4610
4611
4612
4613
4614
4615
4616
4617
4618
4619
4620
4621
4622
4623
4624
4625
4626
4627
4628
4629
4630
4631
4632
4633
4634
4635
4636
4637
4638
4639
4640
4641
4642
4643
4644
4645
4646
4647
4648
4649
4650
4651
4652
4653
4654
4655
4656
4657
4658
4659
4660
4661
4662
4663
4664
4665
4666
4667
4668
4669
4670
4671
4672
4673
4674
4675
4676
4677
4678
4679
4680
4681
4682
4683
4684
4685
4686
4687
4688
4689
4690
4691
4692
4693
4694
4695
4696
4697
4698
4699
4700
4701
4702
4703
4704
4705
4706
4707
4708
4709
4710
4711
4712
4713
4714
4715
4716
4717
4718
4719
4720
4721
4722
4723
4724
4725
4726
4727
4728
4729
4730
4731
4732
4733
4734
4735
4736
4737
4738
4739
4740
4741
4742
4743
4744
4745
4746
4747
4748
4749
4750
4751
4752
4753
4754
4755
4756
4757
4758
4759
4760
4761
4762
4763
4764
4765
4766
4767
4768
4769
4770
4771
4772
4773
4774
4775
4776
4777
4778
4779
4780
4781
4782
4783
4784
4785
4786
4787
4788
4789
4790
4791
4792
4793
4794
4795
4796
4797
4798
4799
4800
4801
4802
4803
4804
4805
4806
4807
4808
4809
4810
4811
4812
4813
4814
4815
4816
4817
4818
4819
4820
4821
4822
4823
4824
4825
4826
4827
4828
4829
4830
4831
4832
4833
4834
4835
4836
4837
4838
4839
4840
4841
4842
4843
4844
4845
4846
4847
4848
4849
4850
4851
4852
4853
4854
4855
4856
4857
4858
4859
4860
4861
4862
4863
4864
4865
4866
4867
4868
4869
4870
4871
4872
4873
4874
4875
4876
4877
4878
4879
4880
4881
4882
4883
4884
4885
4886
4887
4888
4889
4890
4891
4892
4893
4894
4895
4896
4897
4898
4899
4900
4901
4902
4903
4904
4905
4906
4907
4908
4909
4910
4911
4912
4913
4914
4915
4916
4917
4918
4919
4920
4921
4922
4923
4924
4925
4926
4927
4928
4929
4930
4931
4932
4933
4934
4935
4936
4937
4938
4939
4940
4941
4942
4943
4944
4945
4946
4947
4948
4949
4950
4951
4952
4953
4954
4955
4956
4957
4958
4959
4960
4961
4962
4963
4964
4965
4966
4967
4968
4969
4970
4971
4972
4973
4974
4975
4976
4977
4978
4979
4980
4981
4982
4983
4984
4985
4986
4987
4988
4989
4990
4991
4992
4993
4994
4995
4996
4997
4998
4999
5000
5001
5002
5003
5004
5005
5006
5007
5008
5009
5010
5011
5012
5013
5014
5015
5016
5017
5018
5019
5020
5021
5022
5023
5024
5025
5026
5027
5028
5029
5030
5031
5032
5033
5034
5035
5036
5037
5038
5039
5040
5041
5042
5043
5044
5045
5046
5047
5048
5049
5050
5051
5052
5053
5054
5055
5056
5057
5058
5059
5060
5061
5062
5063
5064
5065
5066
5067
5068
5069
5070
5071
5072
5073
5074
5075
5076
5077
5078
5079
5080
5081
5082
5083
5084
5085
5086
5087
5088
5089
5090
5091
5092
5093
5094
5095
5096
5097
5098
5099
5100
5101
5102
5103
5104
5105
5106
5107
5108
5109
5110
5111
5112
5113
5114
5115
5116
5117
5118
5119
5120
5121
5122
5123
5124
5125
5126
5127
5128
5129
5130
5131
5132
5133
5134
5135
5136
5137
5138
5139
5140
5141
5142
5143
5144
5145
5146
5147
5148
5149
5150
5151
5152
5153
5154
5155
5156
5157
5158
5159
5160
5161
5162
5163
5164
5165
5166
5167
5168
5169
5170
5171
5172
5173
5174
5175
5176
5177
5178
5179
5180
5181
5182
5183
5184
5185
5186
5187
5188
5189
5190
5191
5192
5193
5194
5195
5196
5197
5198
5199
5200
5201
5202
5203
5204
5205
5206
5207
5208
5209
5210
5211
5212
5213
5214
5215
5216
5217
5218
5219
5220
5221
5222
5223
5224
5225
5226
5227
5228
5229
5230
5231
5232
5233
5234
5235
5236
5237
5238
5239
5240
5241
5242
5243
5244
5245
5246
5247
5248
5249
5250
5251
5252
5253
5254
5255
5256
5257
5258
5259
5260
5261
5262
5263
5264
5265
5266
5267
5268
5269
5270
5271
5272
5273
5274
5275
5276
5277
5278
5279
5280
5281
5282
5283
5284
5285
5286
5287
5288
5289
5290
5291
5292
5293
5294
5295
5296
5297
5298
5299
5300
5301
5302
5303
5304
5305
5306
5307
5308
5309
5310
5311
5312
5313
5314
5315
5316
5317
5318
5319
5320
5321
5322
5323
5324
5325
5326
5327
5328
5329
5330
5331
5332
5333
5334
5335
5336
5337
5338
5339
5340
5341
5342
5343
5344
5345
5346
5347
5348
5349
5350
5351
5352
5353
5354
5355
5356
5357
5358
5359
5360
5361
5362
5363
5364
5365
5366
5367
5368
5369
5370
5371
5372
5373
5374
5375
5376
5377
5378
5379
5380
5381
5382
5383
5384
5385
5386
5387
5388
5389
5390
5391
5392
5393
5394
5395
5396
5397
5398
5399
5400
5401
5402
5403
5404
5405
5406
5407
5408
5409
5410
5411
5412
5413
5414
5415
5416
5417
5418
5419
5420
5421
5422
5423
5424
5425
5426
5427
5428
5429
5430
5431
5432
5433
5434
5435
5436
5437
5438
5439
5440
5441
5442
5443
5444
5445
5446
5447
5448
5449
5450
5451
5452
5453
5454
5455
5456
5457
5458
5459
5460
5461
5462
5463
5464
5465
5466
5467
5468
5469
5470
5471
5472
5473
5474
5475
5476
5477
5478
5479
5480
5481
5482
5483
5484
5485
5486
5487
5488
5489
5490
5491
5492
5493
5494
5495
5496
5497
5498
5499
5500
5501
5502
5503
5504
5505
5506
5507
5508
5509
5510
5511
5512
5513
5514
5515
5516
5517
5518
5519
5520
5521
5522
5523
5524
5525
5526
5527
5528
5529
5530
5531
5532
5533
5534
5535
5536
5537
5538
5539
5540
5541
5542
5543
5544
5545
5546
5547
5548
5549
5550
5551
5552
5553
5554
5555
5556
5557
5558
5559
5560
5561
5562
5563
5564
5565
5566
5567
5568
5569
5570
5571
5572
5573
5574
5575
5576
5577
5578
5579
5580
5581
5582
5583
5584
5585
5586
5587
5588
5589
5590
5591
5592
5593
5594
5595
5596
5597
5598
5599
5600
5601
5602
5603
5604
5605
5606
5607
5608
5609
5610
5611
5612
5613
5614
5615
5616
5617
5618
5619
5620
5621
5622
5623
5624
5625
5626
5627
5628
5629
5630
5631
5632
5633
5634
5635
5636
5637
5638
5639
5640
5641
5642
5643
5644
5645
5646
5647
5648
5649
5650
5651
5652
5653
5654
5655
5656
5657
5658
5659
5660
5661
5662
5663
5664
5665
5666
5667
5668
5669
5670
5671
5672
5673
5674
5675
5676
5677
5678
5679
5680
5681
5682
5683
5684
5685
5686
5687
5688
5689
5690
5691
5692
5693
5694
5695
5696
5697
5698
5699
5700
5701
5702
5703
5704
5705
5706
5707
5708
5709
5710
5711
5712
5713
5714
5715
5716
5717
5718
5719
5720
5721
5722
5723
5724
5725
5726
5727
5728
5729
5730
5731
5732
5733
5734
5735
5736
5737
5738
5739
5740
5741
5742
5743
5744
5745
5746
5747
5748
5749
5750
5751
5752
5753
5754
5755
5756
5757
5758
5759
5760
5761
5762
5763
5764
5765
5766
5767
5768
5769
5770
5771
5772
5773
5774
5775
5776
5777
5778
5779
5780
5781
5782
5783
5784
5785
5786
5787
5788
5789
5790
5791
5792
5793
5794
5795
5796
5797
5798
5799
5800
5801
5802
5803
5804
5805
5806
5807
5808
5809
5810
5811
5812
5813
5814
5815
5816
5817
5818
5819
5820
5821
5822
5823
5824
5825
5826
5827
5828
5829
5830
5831
5832
5833
5834
5835
5836
5837
5838
5839
5840
5841
5842
5843
5844
5845
5846
5847
5848
5849
5850
5851
5852
5853
5854
5855
5856
5857
5858
5859
5860
5861
5862
5863
5864
5865
5866
5867
5868
5869
5870
5871
5872
5873
5874
5875
5876
5877
5878
5879
5880
5881
5882
5883
5884
5885
5886
5887
5888
5889
5890
5891
5892
5893
5894
5895
5896
5897
5898
5899
5900
5901
5902
5903
5904
5905
5906
5907
5908
5909
5910
5911
5912
5913
5914
5915
5916
5917
5918
5919
5920
5921
5922
5923
5924
5925
5926
5927
5928
5929
5930
5931
5932
5933
5934
5935
5936
5937
5938
5939
5940
5941
5942
5943
5944
5945
5946
5947
5948
5949
5950
5951
5952
5953
5954
5955
5956
5957
5958
5959
5960
5961
5962
5963
5964
5965
5966
5967
5968
5969
5970
5971
5972
5973
5974
5975
5976
5977
5978
5979
5980
5981
5982
5983
5984
5985
5986
5987
5988
5989
5990
5991
5992
5993
5994
5995
5996
5997
5998
5999
6000
6001
6002
6003
6004
6005
6006
6007
6008
6009
6010
6011
6012
6013
6014
6015
6016
6017
6018
6019
6020
6021
6022
6023
6024
6025
6026
6027
6028
6029
6030
6031
6032
6033
6034
6035
6036
6037
6038
6039
6040
6041
6042
6043
6044
6045
6046
6047
6048
6049
6050
6051
6052
6053
6054
6055
6056
6057
6058
6059
6060
6061
6062
6063
6064
6065
6066
6067
6068
6069
6070
6071
6072
6073
6074
6075
6076
6077
6078
6079
6080
6081
6082
6083
6084
6085
6086
6087
6088
6089
6090
6091
6092
6093
6094
6095
6096
6097
6098
6099
6100
6101
6102
6103
6104
6105
6106
6107
6108
6109
6110
6111
6112
6113
6114
6115
6116
6117
6118
6119
6120
6121
6122
6123
6124
6125
6126
6127
6128
6129
6130
6131
6132
6133
6134
6135
6136
6137
6138
6139
6140
6141
6142
6143
6144
6145
6146
6147
6148
6149
6150
6151
6152
6153
6154
6155
6156
6157
6158
6159
6160
6161
6162
6163
6164
6165
6166
6167
6168
6169
6170
6171
6172
6173
6174
6175
6176
6177
6178
6179
6180
6181
6182
6183
6184
6185
6186
6187
6188
6189
6190
6191
6192
6193
6194
6195
6196
6197
6198
6199
6200
6201
6202
6203
6204
6205
6206
6207
6208
6209
6210
6211
6212
6213
6214
6215
6216
6217
6218
6219
6220
6221
6222
6223
6224
6225
6226
6227
6228
6229
6230
6231
6232
6233
6234
6235
6236
6237
6238
6239
6240
6241
6242
6243
6244
6245
6246
6247
6248
6249
6250
6251
6252
6253
6254
6255
6256
6257
6258
6259
6260
6261
6262
6263
6264
6265
6266
6267
6268
6269
6270
6271
6272
6273
6274
6275
6276
6277
6278
6279
6280
6281
6282
6283
6284
6285
6286
6287
6288
6289
6290
6291
6292
6293
6294
6295
6296
6297
6298
6299
6300
6301
6302
6303
6304
6305
6306
6307
6308
6309
6310
6311
6312
6313
6314
6315
6316
6317
6318
6319
6320
6321
6322
6323
6324
6325
6326
6327
6328
6329
6330
6331
6332
6333
6334
6335
6336
6337
6338
6339
6340
6341
6342
6343
6344
6345
6346
6347
6348
6349
6350
6351
6352
6353
6354
6355
6356
6357
6358
6359
6360
6361
6362
6363
6364
6365
6366
6367
6368
6369
6370
6371
6372
6373
6374
6375
6376
6377
6378
6379
6380
6381
6382
6383
6384
6385
6386
6387
6388
6389
6390
6391
6392
6393
6394
6395
6396
6397
6398
6399
6400
6401
6402
6403
6404
6405
6406
6407
6408
6409
6410
6411
6412
6413
6414
6415
6416
6417
6418
6419
6420
6421
6422
6423
6424
6425
6426
6427
6428
6429
6430
6431
6432
6433
6434
6435
6436
6437
6438
6439
6440
6441
6442
6443
6444
6445
6446
6447
6448
6449
6450
6451
6452
6453
6454
6455
6456
6457
6458
6459
6460
6461
6462
6463
6464
6465
6466
6467
6468
6469
6470
6471
6472
6473
6474
6475
6476
6477
6478
6479
6480
6481
6482
6483
6484
6485
6486
6487
6488
6489
6490
6491
6492
6493
6494
6495
6496
6497
6498
6499
6500
6501
6502
6503
6504
6505
6506
6507
6508
6509
6510
6511
6512
6513
6514
6515
6516
6517
6518
6519
6520
6521
6522
6523
6524
6525
6526
6527
6528
6529
6530
6531
6532
6533
6534
6535
6536
6537
6538
6539
6540
6541
6542
6543
6544
6545
6546
6547
6548
6549
6550
6551
6552
6553
6554
6555
6556
6557
6558
6559
6560
6561
6562
6563
6564
6565
6566
6567
6568
6569
6570
6571
6572
6573
6574
6575
6576
6577
6578
6579
6580
6581
6582
6583
6584
6585
6586
6587
6588
6589
6590
6591
6592
6593
6594
6595
6596
6597
6598
6599
6600
6601
6602
6603
6604
6605
6606
6607
6608
6609
6610
6611
6612
6613
6614
6615
6616
6617
6618
6619
6620
6621
6622
6623
6624
6625
6626
6627
6628
6629
6630
6631
6632
6633
6634
6635
6636
6637
6638
6639
6640
6641
6642
6643
6644
6645
6646
6647
6648
6649
6650
6651
6652
6653
6654
6655
6656
6657
6658
6659
6660
6661
6662
6663
6664
6665
6666
6667
6668
6669
6670
6671
6672
6673
6674
6675
6676
6677
6678
6679
6680
6681
6682
6683
6684
6685
6686
6687
6688
6689
6690
6691
6692
6693
6694
6695
6696
6697
6698
6699
6700
6701
6702
6703
6704
6705
6706
6707
6708
6709
6710
6711
6712
6713
6714
6715
6716
6717
6718
6719
6720
6721
6722
6723
6724
6725
6726
6727
6728
6729
6730
6731
6732
6733
6734
6735
6736
6737
6738
6739
6740
6741
6742
6743
6744
6745
6746
6747
6748
6749
6750
6751
6752
6753
6754
6755
6756
6757
6758
6759
6760
6761
6762
6763
6764
6765
6766
6767
6768
6769
6770
6771
6772
6773
6774
6775
6776
6777
6778
6779
6780
6781
6782
6783
6784
6785
6786
6787
6788
6789
6790
6791
6792
6793
6794
6795
6796
6797
6798
6799
6800
6801
6802
6803
6804
6805
6806
6807
6808
6809
6810
6811
6812
6813
6814
6815
6816
6817
6818
6819
6820
6821
6822
6823
6824
6825
6826
6827
6828
6829
6830
6831
6832
6833
6834
6835
6836
6837
6838
6839
6840
6841
6842
6843
6844
6845
6846
6847
6848
6849
6850
6851
6852
6853
6854
6855
6856
6857
6858
6859
6860
6861
6862
6863
6864
6865
6866
6867
6868
6869
6870
6871
6872
6873
6874
6875
6876
6877
6878
6879
6880
6881
6882
6883
6884
6885
6886
6887
6888
6889
6890
6891
6892
6893
6894
6895
6896
6897
6898
6899
6900
6901
6902
6903
6904
6905
6906
6907
6908
6909
6910
6911
6912
6913
6914
6915
6916
6917
6918
6919
6920
6921
6922
6923
6924
6925
6926
6927
6928
6929
6930
6931
6932
6933
6934
6935
6936
6937
6938
6939
6940
6941
6942
6943
6944
6945
6946
6947
6948
6949
6950
6951
6952
6953
6954
6955
6956
6957
6958
6959
6960
6961
6962
6963
6964
6965
6966
6967
6968
6969
6970
6971
6972
6973
6974
6975
6976
6977
6978
6979
6980
6981
6982
6983
6984
6985
6986
6987
6988
6989
6990
6991
6992
6993
6994
6995
6996
6997
6998
6999
7000
7001
7002
7003
7004
7005
7006
7007
7008
7009
7010
7011
7012
7013
7014
7015
7016
7017
7018
7019
7020
7021
7022
7023
7024
7025
7026
7027
7028
7029
7030
7031
7032
7033
7034
7035
7036
7037
7038
7039
7040
7041
7042
7043
7044
7045
7046
7047
7048
7049
7050
7051
7052
7053
7054
7055
7056
7057
7058
7059
7060
7061
7062
7063
7064
7065
7066
7067
7068
7069
7070
7071
7072
7073
7074
7075
7076
7077
7078
7079
7080
7081
7082
7083
7084
7085
7086
7087
7088
7089
7090
7091
7092
7093
7094
7095
7096
7097
7098
7099
7100
7101
7102
7103
7104
7105
7106
7107
7108
7109
7110
7111
7112
7113
7114
7115
7116
7117
7118
7119
7120
7121
7122
7123
7124
7125
7126
7127
7128
7129
7130
7131
7132
7133
7134
7135
7136
7137
7138
7139
7140
7141
7142
7143
7144
7145
7146
7147
7148
7149
7150
7151
7152
7153
7154
7155
7156
7157
7158
7159
7160
7161
7162
7163
7164
7165
7166
7167
7168
7169
7170
7171
7172
7173
7174
7175
7176
7177
7178
7179
7180
7181
7182
7183
7184
7185
7186
7187
7188
7189
7190
7191
7192
7193
7194
7195
7196
7197
7198
7199
7200
7201
7202
7203
7204
7205
7206
7207
7208
7209
7210
7211
7212
7213
7214
7215
7216
7217
7218
7219
7220
7221
7222
7223
7224
7225
7226
7227
7228
7229
7230
7231
7232
7233
7234
7235
7236
7237
7238
7239
7240
7241
7242
7243
7244
7245
7246
7247
7248
7249
7250
7251
7252
7253
7254
7255
7256
7257
7258
7259
7260
7261
7262
7263
7264
7265
7266
7267
7268
7269
7270
7271
7272
7273
7274
7275
7276
7277
7278
7279
7280
7281
7282
7283
7284
7285
7286
7287
7288
7289
7290
7291
7292
7293
7294
7295
7296
7297
7298
7299
7300
7301
7302
7303
7304
7305
7306
7307
7308
7309
7310
7311
7312
7313
7314
7315
7316
7317
7318
7319
7320
7321
7322
7323
7324
7325
7326
7327
7328
7329
7330
7331
7332
7333
7334
7335
7336
7337
7338
7339
7340
7341
7342
7343
7344
7345
7346
7347
7348
7349
7350
7351
7352
7353
7354
7355
7356
7357
7358
7359
7360
7361
7362
7363
7364
7365
7366
7367
7368
7369
7370
7371
7372
7373
7374
7375
7376
7377
7378
7379
7380
7381
7382
7383
7384
7385
7386
7387
7388
7389
7390
7391
7392
7393
7394
7395
7396
7397
7398
7399
7400
7401
7402
7403
7404
7405
7406
7407
7408
7409
7410
7411
7412
7413
7414
7415
7416
7417
7418
7419
7420
7421
7422
7423
7424
7425
7426
7427
7428
7429
7430
7431
7432
7433
7434
7435
7436
7437
7438
7439
7440
7441
7442
7443
7444
7445
7446
7447
7448
7449
7450
7451
7452
7453
7454
7455
7456
7457
7458
|
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
<title>The South of France—East Half (Paris to Marseilles)</title>
<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
</head>
<body>
<div class = "mynote">
<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
popups</ins>.</p>
<p class = "center">
<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a>
(<i>separate file</i>)<br>
<br>
Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_contents">Itineraries</a><br>
Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_maps">Maps</a><br>
Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#to_riviera">Text</a><br>
<br>
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate
file</i>)<br>
<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a>
and
<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate
file</i>)</p>
</div>
<div class = "toc">
<h4><a name = "part1_contents" id = "part1_contents">ITINERARY</a><br>
<span class = "smaller">(pages 1–106)</span></h4>
<p>
<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles"><b>PARIS to MARSEILLES</b></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page1">1</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "inset">
The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most
interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which
the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good
resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles
should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
from this great central railway are</p>
<p><a href = "#la_roche_to_les_laumes"><b>La Roche to Les Laumes</b></a>
by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a
coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast
church.
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page14">14</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
From Auxerre a coach runs to <a href = "#chablis">Chablis</a>
(p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through <a href =
"#pontigny">Pontigny</a> (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket
resided.</p>
<p class = "notation">
<a href = "#verrey">Verrey</a> (p. 19) is a good station to alight at,
to visit the source of the Seine.</p>
<p class = "notation">
From <a href = "#dijon"><b>Dijon</b></a> (p. 20) southwards to <a href =
"#chagny">Chagny</a> (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.</p>
<p class = "notation">
<a href = "#chagny"><b>Chagny to Nevers</b></a> by Autun, Montchanin and
Creusot. <a href = "#autun">Autun</a> (p. 24) is one of the most
ancient cities in France. At <a href = "#le_creusot">Creusot</a>
(p. 25) are very large ironworks.</p>
<p class = "notation">
<b><a href = "#macon">Macon</a> to <a href =
"#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a></b> by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial
(p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several
interviews with J. C.</p>
<p class = "notation">
<a href = "#lyons"><b>Lyons</b></a> (p. 29), though a splendid city,
ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway
junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is <a href =
"turin.html#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains</a> (p. 283). 76 miles
S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is <a href =
"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (p. 324). Voiron is the station
for the <a href = "turin.html#grande_chartreuse">Grande Chartreuse</a>
(p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by <a href =
"turin.html#montbrison">Montbrison</a> (p. 349), is <a href =
"turin.html#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (p. 369). 89½
miles S.W. by <a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a>
(p. 346) is <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (p. 86). The rail
from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to <a href =
"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p. 58) and <a href = "#arles">Arles</a>
(p. 68); and on the W. side to <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a>
(p. 101). See <a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>.</p>
<p><a href = "#valence_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to
Grenoble</span></a>, 62 miles N.E.
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page44">44</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#valence_coaches"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to
Ardèche</span></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page45">45</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#crest_to_montelimart"><span class = "smallcaps">Crest to
Montelimart</span></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Crest to <a href = "#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a></b> by Saou and
Bourdeaux
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
<a href = "#saou">Saou</a> is an ancient village curiously situated.
<a href = "#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a> is separated from Dieulefit by a high
mountain.</p>
<p><a href = "#crest_to_aspres"><b>Crest to Aspres</b></a>, 57 miles E.
by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme
(<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page47">47</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#montelimart">Montelimart</a> to
<a href = "#grignan">Grignan</a></span>, where Madame Sévigné died
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page49">49</a></span>
</p>
<p><b><a href = "#la_croisiere">La Croisière</a> to <a href =
"#nyons">Nyons</a></b>, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons
is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From
Nyons another coach goes on to <a href = "#nyons_to_serres">Serres</a>,
41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble
(<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>).</p>
<p><a href = "#sorgues"><b>Sorgues to Carpentras</b></a>, 10½ m. east
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page54">54</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
<a href = "#carpentras">Carpentras</a> makes excellent headquarters for
visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others
<a href = "#mont_ventoux">Mont Ventoux</a> (p. 56) and <a href =
"#vaison">Vaison</a> (p. 53).</p>
<p><a href = "#avignon_to_nimes"><b>Avignon to Nîmes</b></a> by the
famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#avignon_to_vaucluse"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to
the Fontaine of Vaucluse</span></a>, where Petrarch lived for some time
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#avignon_to_manosque"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to
Manosque</span></a> by Apt (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#cavaillon_to_miramas"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon
to Miramas</span></a> by Cavaillon
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a> to
<a href = "#st_remy">St. Remy</a> and <a href = "#les_baux">Les
Baux</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page67">67</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#arles_to_fontvieille"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to
Fontvieille</span></a> by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman
remains
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page71">71</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_st_louis"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles
to Port St. Louis</span></a> at the mouth of the Rhône
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_bouc"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to
Port-Bouc</span></a>, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page76">76</a> and <a href =
"#page72">72</a></span></p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to <a href =
"#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes</a></span> by <a href = "#st_gilles">St.
Gilles</a> and <a href = "#lunel">Lunel</a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lunel to <a href =
"#montpellier">Montpellier</a></span>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page73">73</a></span>
</p>
<p><b><a href = "#rognac">Rognac</a> to the aqueduct of Roquefavour</b>,
which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page77">77</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Rognac to the baths of <a href =
"#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence</a>.</b> Aix has communication by
rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page78">78</a></span>
</p>
<p><b><a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">LYONS to NÎMES</a> by the west side of
the Rhône</b> (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#peyraud"><span class = "smallcaps">Peyraud</span></a> by
rail to <a href = "#annonay">Annonay</a>, and thence by coach to
<a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> [pg. 354]
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span>
</p>
<p><b><a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a> to <a href =
"#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a></b>, the chief diligence centre in the
department of Ardèche (<a href = "#map46">map, p. 46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#loire_source_road">The road to the source of the
Loire</a> (<a href = "#map84">map, p. 85</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><span class =
"smallcaps">Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage</span></a> (<a href =
"#map84">map, p. 85</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page84">84</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#le_beage_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Béage to
Le Puy</span></a> by Le Monastier (<a href = "#map46">map,
p. 46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page85">85</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to
Langogne</span></a> by Pradelles (<a href = "#map46">map,
p. 46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page88">88</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langeac"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to
Langeac</span></a> by St. Georges (<a href = "#map46">map,
p. 46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#darsac">Darsac</a> to <a href =
"#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a></span> (<a href = "#map46">map, p.
46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#chaise_dieu_to_vichy"><span class =
"smallcaps">Chaise-Dieu to Thiers</span></a> by Arlanc and Ambert (<a
href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page90">90</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#langeac">Langeac</a> to <a href
= "#monistrol_to_saugues">Monistrol and to Saugues</a>.</span> Coach
from Monistrol station to <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (<a href =
"#map46">map, p. 46</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page91">91</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#le_pouzin"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Pouzin to
Privas</span></a> (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page92">92</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#le_teil"><b>Teil to Alais</b></a>, 62 miles S.W. (<a href
= "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page93">93</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the
interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.</p>
<p><a href = "#aubenas_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to
Langogne</span></a> by Mayres and Pradelles (<a href = "#map27">map,
p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page94">94</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#prades_etc"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to
Montpezat.</span></a> From Montpezat the <a href =
"#loire_source">source of the Loire</a> (p. 84) is visited
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page95">95</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#montpezat_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Montpezat
to Le Puy</span></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span>
</p>
<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#ruoms">Ruoms</a> to <a href =
"#vallon_to_pont_darc">Vallon</a></span> and the fine natural bridge
called the <a href = "#pont_darc">Pont d’Arc</a> (<a href =
"#map27">map, p. 27</a>), approached also from <a href =
"#pont_st_esprit">Pont-St. Esprit</a> (p. 98)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#pont_avignon"><span class = "smallcaps">Pont
d’Avignon</span></a>, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#remoulins"><span class = "smallcaps">Remoulins to the
Pont-du-Gard</span></a>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span>
</p>
<p><a href = "#nimes_to_millau"><span class = "smallcaps">Nîmes To
Millau</span></a> by Vigan (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
<span class = "page"><a href = "#page105">105</a></span>
</p>
</div> <!-- end div toc -->
<div class = "toc">
<h4><a name = "part1_maps" id = "part1_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br>
<span class = "smaller">(pages 1–106)</span></h4>
<p>
<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
<p><b>Ardèche</b>, general map of, including the northern part of the
department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map46">46</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the
Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,
Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.</p>
<p><b>Arles</b>, a town of great interest
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map68">68</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Avignon</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map59">59</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Dijon</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map20">20</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Lyons</b>, General plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map30">30</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Lyons</b>, Partial plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map33">33</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Nîmes</b>, interesting Roman ruins
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map101">101</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Paris to Vichy, Macon</b>, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the
S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,
Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to
the N.
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map1">1</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Rhône and Savoy</b>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map27">107</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the
railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes
between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.</p>
<p class = "mynote">
Map appears on page 27 in this section.</p>
<p><b>The high volcanic peaks</b> in the department of Ardèche; among
which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map84">84</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>The Mouths of the Rhône</b>
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map66">66</a></span>
</p>
<p class = "notation">
Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this
neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,
Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see
pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is
the commencement of the Craponne canal (<a href =
"#map66">p. 66</a>).</p>
<p><b>The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance</b>, in which
are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,
Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map56">56</a></span>
</p>
<p><b>Troyes</b>, Plan of
<span class = "page"><a href = "#map12">12</a></span>
</p>
</div> <!-- end div toc -->
<!-- png 026 -->
<p class = "illustration">
PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &c.<br>
<a name = "map1" id = "map1" href = "images/map1.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map1thumb.png" width = "443" height = "327"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<div class = "itinerary">
<span class = "pagenum">1</span>
<a name = "page1" id = "page1"> </a>
<!-- png 027 -->
<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "to_riviera" id = "to_riviera">
THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.</a></h4>
<p class = "line"> </p>
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_menton" id =
"paris_to_menton">
Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692
miles.</a></h4>
<p class = "line"> </p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles" id =
"paris_to_marseilles">
PART I.—PARIS TO MARSEILLES.</a></h5>
<h5><span class = "smallcaps">By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon</span>,
537 miles.</h5>
<p class = "summary">
Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London
to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of
the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their
London office.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles to">537</span>
<a name = "paris" id = "paris"><b>PARIS.</b></a> Start from the station
of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where
purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely
trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of
the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the
H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules
César.</p>
<p><i>Maps.</i>—For the general route, consult <a href =
"main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>; for the details as far as
Macon, <a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>; and for the remainder of the
journey, <a href = "#map27">map page 26</a>. The fare, third class, from
London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons
Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the
Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>,
and arriving next day at 5.33 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>
From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span> for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span> From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32
<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>, and arrives at 10.13 <span class
= "smallroman">A.M.</span> The third-class carriages between Paris and
<span class = "pagenum">2</span>
<a name = "page2" id = "page2"> </a>
<!-- png 028 -->
Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with
warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the
winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey,
but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every
break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the
most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night.
By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in
18¼ hours for £4:13:6.</p>
<p>The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the
Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne,
which here joins the Seine. <a name = "charenton" id =
"charenton"><b>Charenton</b></a>, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a
large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. <a name
= "st_maurice" id = "st_maurice"><b>St. Maurice</b></a>, pop. 4300, has
in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for
animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library,
museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of
grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the <a name =
"maisons_dalfort" id = "maisons_dalfort"><b>Maisons-Alfort</b></a>, pop.
8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some
time.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Villeneuve St. George. Melun.</span></p>
<p>9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of <a name =
"villeneuve_george" id = "villeneuve_george"><b>Villeneuve St.
George</b></a>, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères,
a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther
is <a name = "montgeron" id = "montgeron"><b>Montgeron</b></a> on the
Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor
of Henri IV.
<span class = "sidetrip">
On the other side of the river is the village of <b>Crosne</b>; where on
the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas
Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the
first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his
contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English
literature.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
13¾ m. from Paris is <a name = "brunoy" id = "brunoy"><b>Brunoy</b></a>,
pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of
France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy.
The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches
104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of
<a name = "melun" id = "melun"><b>MELUN</b></a>, pop. 12,000.
<i>Inns:</i> Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near
St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante.
Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine,
and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which
here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names
of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.
Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway
station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the
left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the
church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower
over each transept, 10th cent. The large building
<span class = "pagenum">3</span>
<a name = "page3" id = "page3"> </a>
<!-- png 029 -->
behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the
Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the
main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St.
Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed
gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed
square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short
spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8
windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is
the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in
the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514,
“Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16<sup>me</sup>
siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of
ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome
fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry
St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,
the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the
north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent
pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the
Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard.
From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,
where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">37</span>
<span class = "miles to">500</span>
<a name = "fontainebleau" id = "fontainebleau"><b>FONTAINEBLEAU</b></a>
pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station;
but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour
du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front
the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon;
Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande,
is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des
Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie.
In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are
the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels
facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13
frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan
is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the
end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded
with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and
photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good
confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had
either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the
train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the
restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the
Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<i>Coach Tariff.</i>—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the
Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the
forest in the shop opposite.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the
<span class = "pagenum">4</span>
<a name = "page4" id = "page4"> </a>
<!-- png 030 -->
day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10
frs. for the day.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following
prices:—</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for
the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour
3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an
hour.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Fontainebleau</b> deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but
to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which
cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads
and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by
congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each
bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.
The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of
the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval
Blanc,” which court forms the <i>main entrance</i>. A small fee is
expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not
obligatory.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite,
procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The
“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a
smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household,
but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the
Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in
the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by
Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former
edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri
IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and
gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the
gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis
XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The <a name = "fontainebleau_entrance" id =
"fontainebleau_entrance"><b>principal entrance</b></a> is at the west
end by the Cour du <b>CHEVAL BLANC</b>, the largest of all the courts,
measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because
here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave,
on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old
Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw
himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again
in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine
joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and
his wretchedness.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the
following abridged list should be read before entering.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has
46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in
the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place
entered is the <a name = "fontainebleau_chapelle" id =
"fontainebleau_chapelle"><b>Chapelle de la Trinité</b></a>, built by
Francis I. in 1529, and largely
<span class = "pagenum">5</span>
<a name = "page5" id = "page5"> </a>
<!-- png 031 -->
decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having
remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were
as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel.
The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and
here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by
Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and
Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by
Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the
altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The
magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre,
are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Ascend staircase to the <a name = "fontainebleau_napoleon" id =
"fontainebleau_napoleon"><b>APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON</b></a>. The first
room is the Antichambre des <b>Huissiers</b> (ushers), painting by
Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des <b>Secretaires</b>, paintings by Vanloo,
Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers
by Spraendonck, to the most charming <b>Salle des Bains</b>. The walls
are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely
colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the
<b>Abdication Room</b>, containing the famous mahogany table, about a
yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April
1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. <b>Cabinet de
Travail</b> (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob.
Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. <b>Bedroom of
Napoleon</b> I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung
with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of
cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from
Pio VII. to Napoleon. <b>Salon de Famille</b> or Salle du Conseil; dates
from François I. and <b>Henri IV.</b>, and made by Louis XV. his
study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one
piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the
two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered
with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV.
Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV.,
to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of
France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently
gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of
Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "fontainebleau_antoinette" id =
"fontainebleau_antoinette"><b>APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE</b></a> and
of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of
the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases
presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was
fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not
finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). <b>The Bedroom.</b> Occupied
successively by Marie de <ins class = "correction"
title = "spelling unchanged">Medicis</ins>, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette,
Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The
gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie
Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage.
<span class = "pagenum">6</span>
<a name = "page6" id = "page6"> </a>
<!-- png 032 -->
Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by
Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. <b>Salon de Musique.</b> Ceiling, Minerva
and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in
grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon,
from which a door opens into the</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>GALERIE DE DIANE</b> or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling,
divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing
mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the
sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on
the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second
daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room
immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in
parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on
his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina,
and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers
thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown
of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the
ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all
this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his
might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried,
near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the
chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s
chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The
Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to
spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in
the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she
replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been
condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this
coward.”</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with
indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the
goddess Diana.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by
C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes,
1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not
shown (see page 8). The other leads into</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des
Gardes.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "fontainebleau_francois" id = "fontainebleau_francois"><b>LES
GRANDS APPARTEMENTS.</b></a> The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in
gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des
<b>Tapisseries</b> hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves
of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress
Eugenie. <b>Salon de François I.</b> Napoleon I. and Charles
X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling.
The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of
chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets
are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable
Beauvais tapestry. <b>Salon de Louis XIII.</b> The small Venetian
looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came
to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de
<span class = "pagenum">7</span>
<a name = "page7" id = "page7"> </a>
<!-- png 033 -->
Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling
and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which
had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to
Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de <b>Saint
Louis</b>. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV.
by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of
Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des <b>Gardes</b>, principally
by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above
the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the
allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with
figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of <b>Henri
IV.</b><ins class = "correction" title = ") missing">),</ins> with
figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and
Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful
chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust
of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by
Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood,
corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>ESCALIER DU ROI.</b> The top part of this staircase, built by Louis
XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes,
representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo
dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>GALERIE DE HENRI II.</b>, or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent
hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted
on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other
by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by
François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite
Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt
coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by
Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments,
elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly
gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The
chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by
Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the
chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return
now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I.</b>, parallel to the apartments of Napoleon,
210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a
communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.
Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The
frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a
few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I.
From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES</b> et du Pape Pie VII. They were
inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis
XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also
by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of
Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by
Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were
expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest
<span class = "pagenum">8</span>
<a name = "page8" id = "page8"> </a>
<!-- png 034 -->
quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel,
Mignard, and other French masters. <b>Antechamber.</b> Portrait of Diana
de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best
works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed
leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. <b>Salles des
Officers.</b> Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of
Esther. <b>Salon.</b> Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins.
Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into
compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII.
<b>The Old Bedroom</b> (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis
XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very
beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. <b>Study</b> of Pio
VII.—portrait of him by David. Dressing-room—wardrobe of
inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV.
by Lemoyne, 1751. <b>New Bedroom</b>—bedstead of time of Louis
XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. <b>Salon de
Reception</b>—Gobelins tapestry—furniture of time of Louis
XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. <b>Waiting-room</b> or Salle d’Attente.
Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.
<b>Antechamber.</b> 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.
Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>GALERIE DES FRESQUES</b> or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this
gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise
Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and
some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the
walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and
incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading
to the</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>SALLE DE SPECTACLE</b> or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and
seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of
Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin.</span></p>
<h5>LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.</h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "fontainebleau_saturnin" id =
"fontainebleau_saturnin"><b>Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin</b></a>,
built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by
Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was
manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836,
daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius
VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814.
The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon
which he built the <b>Upper Chapel</b>. It was ornamented with charming
frescoes, in the reign of <b>Henri IV.</b>, about the year 1608.
Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à
Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same
dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the
right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the <b>Galerie de
Diane</b>, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently
executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see <a href =
"#page6">p. 6</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round
<span class = "pagenum">9</span>
<a name = "page9" id = "page9"> </a>
<!-- png 035 -->
with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by
J. B. Oudry.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,
saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than
that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the
revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties.
The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St.
Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see <a href =
"#page7">p. 7</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection
of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.</p>
<h5><a name = "fontainebleau_courts" id = "fontainebleau_courts">THE
COURTS.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe
staircase, leads through to the <b>Cour de la Fontaine</b>. In the side
facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through
the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before
us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left
the <b>Porte Dorée</b>, one of the gates that opens into the <b>Cour
Ovale</b>. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes
on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects
are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And
by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven
from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass
the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses,
faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is
the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance
to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected
with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri
IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery
college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is
grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "fontainebleau_drives" id =
"fontainebleau_drives"><b>Excursions into the forest.</b></a> Those
wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a
copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the
posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts
lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the
roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The
following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6
hours:—</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie—Point de vue du camp de
Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle
Vue—Barbison par le Bas Bréau—Gorges d’Apremont et
Franchard.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle—Mont Ussy—Caverne
d’Augas—Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet—Gorges
et Rochers de la Solle—Rocher St. Germain—Bocages des
Ecouettes—Fort l’Empereur—Calvaire—Roche Eponge et
Point de vue de Nemorosa.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups
<span class = "pagenum">10</span>
<a name = "page10" id = "page10"> </a>
<!-- png 036 -->
et Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix
du Gd. Maitre.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole
forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from
Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second
contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest,
such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but
especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The
Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very
picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken,
take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
After Fontainebleau is Thomery. <i>Inn</i>: Popardin, where the famous
grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and
trellis-work.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Moret. Jean Sans Peur.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">42</span>
<span class = "miles to">495</span>
<a name = "moret" id = "moret"><b>MORET</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inn</i>:
Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of
fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and
Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally
of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m.
farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the
Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.</p>
<p><a name = "montereau" id =
"montereau"><b>Montereau-faut-Yonne</b></a>, pop. 7000; station about a
mile from the town. <i>Inn</i>: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops,
near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this
junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town
and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully
ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the
right of the high altar is the sword of <a name = "moret_jean_sans" id =
"moret_jean_sans">Jean Sans Peur</a>. Beyond this church a fine stone
bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne,
which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian
statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble
slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On
the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of
Surville. Montereau has important potteries.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sens. Thomas À Becket.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">71</span>
<span class = "miles to">466</span>
<a name = "sens" id = "sens"><b>SENS</b></a> on the Yonne, pop. 12,400.
<i>Inns</i>: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from
north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards
up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then
the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of
the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are
spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable
walks.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">11</span>
<a name = "page11" id = "page11"> </a>
<!-- png 037 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
The <b>Cathedral of St. Etienne</b> was commenced in 972, but nearly
rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty,
is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry
attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with
massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed
arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered
colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured
canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful
relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop
of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the
mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and
statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel,
<a name = "sens_becket" id = "sens_becket">Becket</a> used to officiate.
The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination.
He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the
cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The
transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second
to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean
Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble,
stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old
house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient
evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory
crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th
century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is
valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent
de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining
the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le
Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and
to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings
that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church.
When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny,
7 m. S. from St. Florentin, <a href = "#st_florentin">page 16</a>,
and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, <a href = "#auxerre">page 14</a>.
<b>Becket</b> was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict
in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards.
Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees
from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was
celebrated in his honour.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Troyes.</span></p>
<!-- png 039 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">12</span>
<a name = "map12" id = "map12" href = "images/map12.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map12thumb.png" width = "465" height = "369"
alt = "plan of Troyes"></a>
</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is <a name = "troyes"
id = "troyes"><b>TROYES</b></a>, pop. 39,000. <i>Hotels</i>: At the
station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame,
the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel
des Couriers.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Troyes: Cathedral.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which
produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling.
Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the
most important is the <a name = "troyes_cathedral" id =
"troyes_cathedral"><b>Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul</b></a>,
situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on
the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful
<span class = "pagenum">12</span>
<a name = "page12" id = "page12"> </a>
<!-- png 038 -->
in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the
end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these
intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th
century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three
hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising
above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the
transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave,
separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row
being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory,
both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the
roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the
windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the
western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble
statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of
the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th
cent.
<span class = "headnote float">
Troyes: Henry V.<br>
Salle Simard.</span>
Before the high altar in this church <a name = "troyes_henry_v" id =
"troyes_henry_v">Henry V.</a> of England was affianced to the
Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th
May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown
of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the
poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in
the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the
oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar
leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the
13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of
the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In
the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few
yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
<i>Library</i>, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS.,
in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled
panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St.
Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the
<b>Museum</b>, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel,
Mignard, etc.; and the <a name = "simard" id = "simard"><i>Salle
Simard</i></a>, containing a valuable collection of the <b>Models made
by Simard</b> for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by
Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public
on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is
expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the
Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the
window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the
16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic
architecture, the church of <b>St. Urbain</b>, built by that Pope
towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place
where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was
that of a cobbler. A short way N. is <b>St. Remi</b>, 14th century,
with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St.
Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>,
built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished
in
<span class = "pagenum">13</span>
<a name = "page13" id = "page13"> </a>
<!-- png 040 -->
1670. Beyond is <b>St. Jean</b>, 14th century. The high altar was
sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord,
forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel
“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean,
pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the
first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division
is <b>La Madeleine</b>, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable
for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in
1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period.
The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from
St. Jean is <b>St. Nicolas</b>, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To
the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue
of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on
entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are
beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel
of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The
glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles
give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its
continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.
Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of
the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and
church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal,
constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by
Gentil.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we
have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for
two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Troy Weight.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The weight known by the name of the <a name = "troy_weight" id =
"troy_weight">Troy weight</a> was brought from Cairo during the time of
the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the
headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">79</span>
<span class = "miles to">458</span>
<a name = "villeneuve_yonne" id = "villeneuve_yonne"><span class =
"smallcaps">VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne</span></a>, pop. 5100. <i>Hotel</i>:
Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer”
spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (<a class = "riviera"
href = "riviera.html#page158">p. 158</a>). Villeneuve is joined to
its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or
84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. <i>Hotel</i>:
Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but
possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as
well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the
remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town,
and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to
the 13th cent.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">14</span>
<a name = "page14" id = "page14"> </a>
<!-- png 041 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">91</span>
<span class = "miles to">446</span>
<a name = "joigny" id = "joigny"><b>JOIGNY</b></a>, pop. 7000. A good
resting-place. <i>Hotels</i>: The Poste, between the station and the
bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne,
which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town
occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St.
André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St.
Thibault, 15th cent.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">96</span>
<span class = "miles to">441</span>
<a name = "la_roche" id = "la_roche"><b>LA ROCHE</b></a>, on the Canal
de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large
refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m.
southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon,
and Semur. (See <a href = "#map1">map on p. 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Auxerre.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_roche_to_les_laumes" id =
"la_roche_to_les_laumes">
LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
12½ m. S. from La Roche is <a name = "auxerre" id =
"auxerre"><b>Auxerre</b></a>, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill
rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most
prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the
left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock
Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, <b>St. Etienne</b>, was
rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the
western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are
crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and
of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the
vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high.
The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.
transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.
Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the
13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St.
Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the
17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower,
173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and
finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th
cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the
capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around
the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is
a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and
Chablis. (For Pontigny, see <a href = "#pontigny">page 16</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
13 miles east from Auxerre is <a name = "chablis" id =
"chablis"><b>Chablis</b></a>, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein.
The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white
wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir,
Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the
vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty
flavour.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "cravant" id = "cravant"><b>Cravant</b></a>, pop. 1000,
<i>Inn</i>: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the
station, owing its importance to its position at
<span class = "pagenum">15</span>
<a name = "page15" id = "page15"> </a>
<!-- png 042 -->
the junction of the branch to <a name = "clamecy_2" id =
"clamecy_2">Clamecy</a>, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56
miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles
from Paris by La Roche. (See <a href = "#map1">map, page 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sermizelles. Vezelay.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les
Laumes is <a name = "sermizelles" id =
"sermizelles"><b>Sermizelles</b></a>, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles
distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the
station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a
private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont
Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then
back to Sermizelles Station. See also <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#page354">p. 354</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vezelay" id = "vezelay"><b>Vezelay</b></a>, pop. 1300.
<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of
a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France,
the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex
belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the
choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is
404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and
supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of
the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with
four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured
mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the
triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which
adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity,
and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door
between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are
lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on
forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached
columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period.
A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular
columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the
sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was
formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister
is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in
the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St.
Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The
Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications,
still remain.
<a name = "vez_becket" id = "vez_becket">
<span class = "headnote float">Becket.</span></a>
Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166;
when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he
pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and
others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been
informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in
1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under
Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the
birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the
Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of
the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from
St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">16</span>
<a name = "page16" id = "page16"> </a>
<!-- png 043 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is <a name = "avallon" id =
"avallon"><b>Avallon</b></a>, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. <i>Hotels:</i>
Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a
beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture.
Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant,
pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St.
Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best
keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from
Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent
down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Semur.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and
then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is <a name =
"semur" id = "semur"><b>Semur</b></a>, pop. 4150. <i>Hotels:</i> Côte
d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile
from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by
Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and
repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The
windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are
portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a
beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each
transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and
about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain.
12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at <a href =
"#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and
<a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Saint Florentin.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">107½</span>
<span class = "miles to">429½</span>
<a name = "st_florentin" id = "st_florentin"><b>SAINT FLORENTIN</b></a>,
pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H. de la Gare. In town,
H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
separates from the Chablis road.</p>
<p>Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station.
The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The
windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.
The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes
standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful
rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a
relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection
of Jesus Christ.</p>
<p>At <a name = "pontigny" id = "pontigny"><b>Pontigny</b></a> there is
a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the
shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From
Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W.,
stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of
Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and
round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and
imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft.
<span class = "pagenum">17</span>
<a name = "page17" id = "page17"> </a>
<!-- png 044 -->
wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty
massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave.
A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below
the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th
cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of
Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The
original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the
cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly
screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of
the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish
church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still
remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is
the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole.
Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and
others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery.
The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes
in the life of St. Edmund.</p>
<p>Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and
remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from
Vezelay to Sens.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Tonnerre.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">123</span>
<span class = "miles to">414</span>
<a name = "tonnerre" id = "tonnerre"><b>TONNERRE</b></a>, pop. 6000, on
the Armançon. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Courriers—both near each
other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past
the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the
church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the
foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular
basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a
dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight
street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built
in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in
1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a
beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308).
To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The
arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Tanlay.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">127½</span>
<span class = "miles to">409½</span>
<a name = "tanlay" id = "tanlay"><b>TANLAY</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the
Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive
park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520,
but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559.
The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet
by 36. In a
<span class = "pagenum">18</span>
<a name = "page18" id = "page18"> </a>
<!-- png 045 -->
room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the
Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny.
A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods
of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the
political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is
portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round
the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating
with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces
is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the
abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent.
At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour
45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">136</span>
<span class = "miles to">401</span>
<a name = "ancy_le_franc" id = "ancy_le_franc"><b>ANCY-LE-FRANC</b></a>,
pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built
according to the plans of Primaticcio.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">142</span>
<span class = "miles to">395</span>
<a name = "nuits_sous_ravieres" id =
"nuits_sous_ravieres"><b>NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES</b></a>, pop. 700.
Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see <a href
= "#troyes">page 11</a>), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to
Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the
environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort,
17th and 18th cents.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">151</span>
<span class = "miles to">386</span>
<a name = "montbard" id = "montbard"><b>MONTBARD</b></a>, pop. 3000, on
the Canal de Bourgogne. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. <a name =
"buffon" id = "buffon">Buffon</a>, the celebrated naturalist, was born
in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château,
a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main
street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid
out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square
house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in
the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his
manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the
dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small
column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the
tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that
monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the
parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab
over the door bears the following inscription:—</p>
<p class = "center"><span class = "smallcaps">Buffon</span><br>
A été inhumé dans le<br>
Caveau de cette chapelle<br>
Le 20 Avril 1788.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">19</span>
<a name = "page19" id = "page19"> </a>
<!-- png 046 -->
<p>There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is
the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">160</span>
<span class = "miles to">377</span>
<a name = "les_laumes" id = "les_laumes"><b>LES LAUMES.</b></a>
<i>Inn:</i> H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois,
1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the
station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900.
<i>Inn:</i> H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, <span class =
"smallroman">B.C.</span> 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix,
whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above
the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious
sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles
from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84
acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of
Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of
portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See
page 14.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">165</span>
<span class = "miles to">372</span>
<a name = "darcey" id = "darcey"><b>DARCEY</b></a>, pop. 850, 2 miles
from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high.
<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a
subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for
<a name = "flavigny" id = "flavigny"><b>Flavigny</b></a>, 1½ mile distant,
pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old
walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th,
14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "seine_source" id = "seine_source">
<span class = "headnote">Source of the Seine.</span></a></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">171¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">365¾</span>
<a name = "verrey" id = "verrey"><b>VERREY</b></a>, pop. 900.
<i>Inns:</i> Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the <b>Source of
the Seine</b>, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods,
but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village
of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec,
pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse
Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow
the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone,
where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse
Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above
the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden
enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny
infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of
the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs.
It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by
the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop.
1000. <i>Inns:</i> Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.
A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St.
Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">20</span>
<a name = "page20" id = "page20"> </a>
<!-- png 047 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">179</span>
<span class = "miles to">358</span>
<a name = "blaizy_bas" id = "blaizy_bas"><b>BLAIZY-BAS</b></a>, situated
at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the
Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above
the sea.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">190</span>
<span class = "miles to">347</span>
<a name = "velars" id = "velars"><b>VELARS</b></a>, pop. 1400. After the
preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station,
Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The
viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet
long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the
branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see
page 24.)</p>
<div class = "picture">
<!-- png 048 -->
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon" id = "dijon">
Dijon</a></span>
<h4 class = "extended">DIJON</h4>
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 20</span>
<a name = "map20" id = "map20" href = "images/map20.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map20thumb.png" width = "436" height = "478"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<p class = "smaller">
<span class = "firstword">The</span> principal street is the Rue
Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the
Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard.
No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue
Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy,
containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3
is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre.
Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near
the station (No. 8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty
needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.</p>
</div>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">196</span>
<span class = "miles to">341</span>
<b>DIJON</b>, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station.
<i>Hotels:</i> La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the
station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the
Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous
for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.</p>
<p>Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding
hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.
Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce,
82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent
road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See
page 19.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Dijon: Salle des Gardes. Museums.</span></p>
<p>The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which
was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le
Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de
Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the
ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by
323 steps, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest
is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the
École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum
is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on
Sundays. Other days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the <a name =
"dijon_gardes" id = "dijon_gardes"><b>Salle des Gardes</b></a> are the
magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son
Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the
two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white
marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty
statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the
articles which belonged to them in this room are three
beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;
and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and
the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died
1098.
<span class = "pagenum">21</span>
<a name = "page21" id = "page21"> </a>
<!-- png 049 -->
The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues
of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in
reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice
paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered
one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the
kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting
the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a
kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges.
Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the
British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral
staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches
in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or
serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,
like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the
roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine
Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54
of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double
arch seen in the Hotel de Ville.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_notre_dame" id =
"dijon_notre_dame">
Dijon: Notre Dame.<br>
St. Benigne.</a></span>
Close to the Rue des Forges is <b>Notre Dame</b>, consecrated in 1331,
a very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian
architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance
style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des
Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville
is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of
Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is of massive carved
chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At
the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which
belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne,
founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the
corn-market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St.
Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing
at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards
the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains
of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a
wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091)
at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church,
2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. Towards the right is <a name
= "dijon_benigne" id = "dijon_benigne"><b>St. Benigne</b></a>, easily
recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet
high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the
porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south
aisle is the
<span class = "pagenum">22</span>
<a name = "page22" id = "page22"> </a>
<!-- png 050 -->
slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful
mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery
chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is
St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed
spire. It is now used as an artillery store.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_st_jean" id =
"dijon_st_jean">
Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet.<br>
Asile des Aliénés.</a></span>
From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,
founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in
1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery
of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without
merit.
<a name = "dijon_bossuet" id = "dijon_bossuet">Bossuet</a> was baptised
in this church, and born in No. 10 of this “Place,” 27th September 1627.
Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest
is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of
our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St.
Anne, 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into
the <a name = "dijon_alienes" id = "dijon_alienes"><b>Asile des
Aliénés</b></a>, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi
in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are
the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied
by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the
beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next
taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter,
consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one
of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the
ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the
least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house
contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers,
but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and
Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its
charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number
of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau
d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens.
Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old.
The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue
Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards
long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel
to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or,
extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet.
Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and
sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and
Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from
Meursault follow the
<span class = "pagenum">23</span>
<a name = "page23" id = "page23"> </a>
<!-- png 051 -->
Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten
years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Gevrey-Chambertin.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">203</span>
<span class = "miles to">334</span>
<a name = "gevrey_chambertin" id =
"gevrey_chambertin"><b>GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN</b></a>, 1¼ mile from station,
pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are
the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in
the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">206¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">330¾</span>
<a name = "vougeot" id = "vougeot"><b>VOUGEOT</b></a>, on the Vouge,
pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. <i>Inn:</i> Groffier. Here there are
above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the
most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti,
Richebourg, and La Tache.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">209½</span>
<span class = "miles to">327½</span>
<a name = "nuits" id = "nuits"><b>NUITS</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inn:</i>
Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the
St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate
and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th
cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey
of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who
are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by
Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of
the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to
assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was
rebuilt in 1798.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Beaune.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">219</span>
<span class = "miles to">318</span>
<a name = "beaune" id = "beaune"><b>BEAUNE</b></a>, pop. 12,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is
the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as
Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class
vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay
vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine,
under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under
that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church,
Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and
equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals.</p>
<p>In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to
Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in
1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic
School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the
15th cent.—a curious and interesting building. The Salle de
Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a
painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden.
<span class = "pagenum">24</span>
<a name = "page24" id = "page24"> </a>
<!-- png 052 -->
Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the
neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St.
Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Meursault.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">223½</span>
<span class = "miles to">313½</span>
<a name = "meursault" id = "meursault"><b>MEURSAULT</b></a>, pop. 3000,
1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most
distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d’Or,
a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white wine of
a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the
delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">228</span>
<span class = "miles to">309</span>
<a name = "chagny" id = "chagny"><b>CHAGNY</b></a>, pop. 4200.
<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102 m. W.,
passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m.
W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see <a href = "#le_creusot">page
25</a>, and <a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>). From Chagny
southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around
Chagny produce a first-class quality.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Nolay, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards
in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles
distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a
deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of
the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a
remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal
mines.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Autun.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
26 m. W. from Chagny is <a name = "autun" id = "autun"><b>Autun</b></a>,
pop. 13,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town,
the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built
before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two
Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to
Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent
public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum,
modernised into Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,”
considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount
Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements,
fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been
discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and
8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with
four large gates, of which two—the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high,
and the Porte St. André, lately restored—still remain. The Porte
d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind
the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient
church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The
<b>Cathedral</b>, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178.
The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient
is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic
spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The
entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and
columns. From the Porte St.
<span class = "pagenum">25</span>
<a name = "page25" id = "page25"> </a>
<!-- png 053 -->
Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the
Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great
antiquity.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the
Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789
Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montchanin. Le Creusot.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny,
is <a name = "montchanin" id = "montchanin"><b>Montchanin</b></a>, pop.
2500. <i>Inn:</i> H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The
town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of
the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large
artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud,
the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the
Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from
Chagny, is <a name = "le_creusot" id = "le_creusot"><b>Le
Creusot</b></a>, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the
ironworks. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the
principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le
Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which
enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the
coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them
from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling
suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature
is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and
cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests,
policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is
a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the
workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is
imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner
of powerful machinery, there is no noise.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is <a name = "etang" id
= "etang"><b>Etang</b></a>, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from
Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. <i>Inn:</i> H. Delaigue,
close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with
alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. from Nevers is
Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy by the rail,
skirting the Canal Nivernais. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Croix, close to
station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. <i>Inns:</i>
Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the
Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which
commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church
has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent.,
containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and
coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">26</span>
<a name = "page26" id = "page26"> </a>
<!-- png 054 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Chalon-sur-Saône.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">235</span>
<span class = "miles to">302</span>
<a name = "chalon_sur_saone" id = "chalon_sur_saone"><b><span class =
"smallcaps">CHALON-sur-saône</span></b></a>, pop. 21,000. <i>Hotels:</i>
at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois
Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on
an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre,
both lined with good quays. The chief structures are—St. Vincent,
a Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying
the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty
steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two
stations—one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the
express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where
Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has
disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with
first-class vineyards. Rail to</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">243</span>
<span class = "miles to">294</span>
<a name = "varennes" id = "varennes"><b>VARENNES</b></a>. South from
this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">254</span>
<span class = "miles to">283</span>
<a name = "tournus" id = "tournus"><b>TOURNUS</b></a>, on the Saône,
pop. 6200. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the
Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de
Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868.
Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings
of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725.
The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of
which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th
cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was
founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de
Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines.</p>
<!-- png 055 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 27</span>
<span class = "smallcaps">the RHONE & SAVOY<br>
with the passes from<br>
FRANCE INTO ITALY</span><br>
<a name = "map27" id = "map27" href = "images/map27.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map27thumb.png" width = "439" height = "327"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Macon.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">274</span>
<span class = "miles to">263</span>
<a name = "macon" id = "macon"><b>MACON</b></a>, pop. 20,000. At
station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg,
41 m. E. <i>Hotels.</i>—Near the station, H. Étrangers. In
town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the
steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons,
Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs
Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an
inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays
which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12
arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of
the river. The oldest edifice is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Vincent,
built in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque,
and the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the
Episcopal palace. In this neighbourhood,
<span class = "pagenum">27</span>
<a name = "page27" id = "page27"> </a>
<!-- png 056 -->
at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a
black marble slab over the door are the words:—Ici est né
Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790.</p>
<p>In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station,
the beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque
style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.</p>
<p>From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to
Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line
extends to Geneva 74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and
Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See Black’s <i>France</i>, North Half, and
<a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Cluny. Paray-le-Monial.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "cluny" id = "cluny"><b>Cluny</b></a>, pop. 5000. In the
valley of the Grosne. <i>Hotels:</i> Bourgogne; Pavilions—both
near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in
the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now
used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone
remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the
Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty
niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent.,
with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors.
At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the
first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;
entrance, ½-franc each.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is <a name =
"paray_le_monial" id = "paray_le_monial"><b>Paray-le-Monial</b></a>,
pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. <i>Inns:</i> The Poste, the best; across
the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the
Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the
Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de
Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built
in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to it,
occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish
church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent.
Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs,
llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal
tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From
the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached
columns.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marguerite" id = "marguerite">
<span class = "headnote added">Marguerite.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up
to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and
established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the
monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their
chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854.
To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this
building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with
J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are
<span class = "pagenum">28</span>
<a name = "page28" id = "page28"> </a>
<!-- png 057 -->
painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so
hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of
them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3
angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair
and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red
and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds
her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her.
To the left of entrance the pictures are—1st, a Vision; 2d,
Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of
Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The
picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when
J. C. is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and
sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for
ever.” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied
by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders
of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the
special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship
there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of
J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing
one of the above incidents.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the
habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a
coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with
rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. long.
On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at
other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of
one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d
July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent
of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on
the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had been
chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with
a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at
first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship
of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675,
when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit
establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she
said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour
commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by
Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N. D. de
Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray
there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône,
whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use <a href =
"#map27">map on page 26</a>.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Romaneche. Belleville.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">283</span>
<span class = "miles to">254</span>
<a name = "romaneche" id = "romaneche"><b>ROMANECHE</b></a>, pop. 3000.
<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant
flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should be drunk in the
second year from the vintage.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">29</span>
<a name = "page29" id = "page29"> </a>
<!-- png 058 -->
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">288½</span>
<span class = "miles to">248½</span>
<a name = "belleville" id = "belleville"><b>BELLEVILLE</b></a>, pop.
4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the next Belleville,
1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, the
H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small
round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in
those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small
circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the
Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to
Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious
houses. (Map, page 26.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">297</span>
<span class = "miles to">240</span>
<a name = "villefranche_saone" id = "villefranche_saone"><span class =
"smallcaps"><b>VILLEFRANCHE-sur-saône</b></span></a>, pop. 12,600, on
the river Morgan, near the Saône. <i>Hotels:</i> Provence; Europe.
Containing important linen manufactories, and vineyards producing a good
white wine. The parish church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in
the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the
town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the Saône. <i>Inns:</i> Terrasse;
France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in this town the <i>Journal de
Trévoux</i> in 1701, and the <i>Dictionnaire de Trévoux</i> in 1704.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">306</span>
<span class = "miles to">231</span>
<a name = "st_germain_mont_dor" id = "st_germain_mont_dor"><span class =
"smallcaps"><b>ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or</b></span></a>, junction with
line from Paris to Lyons, by Roanne and Tarare.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons.</span></p>
<!-- png 060 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">30</span>
[West]<br>
<a name = "map30" id = "map30" href = "images/map30.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map30thumb.png" width = "422" height = "213"
alt = "plan of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a><br>
[East]
</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">318</span>
<span class = "miles to">219</span>
<a name = "lyons" id = "lyons"><b>LYONS</b></a>, pop. 343,000. The
Perrache railway station is 218 m. from Paris, 219 m. from
Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from Bourg,
104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,
100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin.</p>
<p><a name = "lyons_hotels" id = "lyons_hotels"><i>Hotels
(first-class).</i></a>—H. de l’Europe, admirably situated,
with one side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the
Place Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de
la République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon.
H. Bellecour in the Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the
R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also well situated. In the Place Perrache, below
the station, are the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du
Parc.</p>
<p><i>Less expensive Hotels.</i>—The H. du Globe; and the
Havre et du Luxemburg—both near the Place Bellecour. Near the
Place des Terreaux in the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du
Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des Négociants, a large house
frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the Négociants, at No. 47 Rue
de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers, Place de
la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8 frs., in the
Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the
theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General Hospital, the
H. Bourne. A great
<span class = "pagenum">30</span>
<a name = "page30" id = "page30"> </a>
<!-- png 059 -->
many diligences start from this neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4
Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of
the cheapest. Among the best cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the
Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la
République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English
newspapers. In Lyons the term Comptoir is applied to bars where wines,
cordials, and brandies are sold.</p>
<p><a name = "lyons_post" id = "lyons_post"><i>Post
Office.</i></a>—Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at
the south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade
of the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.</p>
<p><i>Telegraph.</i>—Head office, No. 53 Place de la République.
Branch offices—Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38
Cours Morand.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Railway Stations. Cab Fares.</span></p>
<p><a name = "lyons_stations" id = "lyons_stations"><i>Railway
Stations.</i></a>—The great and central station is the <b>Gare de
Perrache</b>, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and
the Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on
the railway to Bourg. The <b>Bourg or Satonay</b> railway station is at
the top of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner
of the Place des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the
hill by a rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per
100, and the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de
la Croix Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway
carriages. The rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a
convenient way of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The
Dombes or <b>St. Paul’s</b> railway station is for Montbrison,
40 m. S.W. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the
Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the
Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams.</p>
<h6 class = "extended"><a name = "lyons_cabs" id = "lyons_cabs">CAB
FARES</a></h6>
<table class = "grid">
<tr class = "box">
<td colspan = "2" rowspan = "2">KIND OF CAB.</td>
<td colspan = "3">
<span class = "smallcaps">
DE 7 H. DU MATIN<br>
a minuit.</span></td>
<td colspan = "2">
<span class = "smallcaps">
DE MINUIT<br>
a 7 H. du mat.</span></td>
</tr>
<tr class = "box">
<!-- <td></td> -->
<!-- <td></td> -->
<td>LA course.</td>
<td>LA 1<sup>re</sup> heure.</td>
<td>LES H. suiv.</td>
<td>LA course.</td>
<td>l’heure.</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "topline sideline">
<td colspan = "2">A 2 places (coupés)</td>
<td>1 25</td>
<td>1 50</td>
<td>1 25</td>
<td>1 65</td>
<td>2 50</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "sideline">
<td colspan = "2">A 4 places (berlines)</td>
<td>1 50</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>1 50</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>3</td>
</tr>
<tr class = "bottomline">
<td class = "bracket">Voitures découvertes</td>
<td class = "rightline">à 2 places<br>
à 4 places</td>
<td class = "sideline">1 75<br>
2</td>
<td class = "sideline">2<br>
2 50</td>
<td class = "sideline">1 75<br>
2</td>
<td class = "sideline">2 15<br>
2 50</td>
<td class = "sideline">3<br>
3 50</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs
with 2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations
the omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">31</span>
<a name = "page31" id = "page31"> </a>
<!-- png 061 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Tramways. Theatres. Steamers.</span></p>
<p><a name = "lyons_tramways" id =
"lyons_tramways"><i>Tramways.</i></a>—The fares are moderate, and
most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal
parts of the town is the large roomy car running between the Perrache
railway station and the Brotteaux railway station, passing through the
P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and
P. de la République between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre,
across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the
Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus the road by the
side of the fort “des Charpennes” leads in 5 minutes into the <a href =
"#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a> (see page 40), which having
visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 minutes, or by
the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of
the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most
important places to visit on the return journey are the <a href =
"#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a> (page 35), and the <a href =
"#lyons_silk_museum">silk museum in the Bourse</a> (page 38). Tram
between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare
outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out
at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons,
pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.</p>
<p><a name = "lyons_theatres" id =
"lyons_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>—The <b>Grand Théâtre</b>,
between the Hôtel de Ville and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls,
6 frs. The <b>Théâtre des Célestins</b>, between the Rue St.
Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, 4 frs.
<b>Théâtre Bellecour</b>, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new
theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for
3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls
cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the
Théâtre des Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St.
Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.</p>
<p><a name = "lyons_steamers" id = "lyons_steamers"><i>Steamers on the
Saône</i></a> (Les Guèpes).—Sail between the Quai St. Antoine (to
the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In
summer 5 departures daily.</p>
<p>Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place
Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on
the Quai de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the
Pont du Port another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling
likewise at numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire,
and between them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.</p>
<p>The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St.
Claire on the <b>Rhône and Aix-les-Bains</b> on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
<span class = "pagenum">32</span>
<a name = "page32" id = "page32"> </a>
<!-- png 062 -->
Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon,
calling at the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing
and shipping of cargo.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Sights.</span></p>
<p><a name = "lyons_sights" id =
"lyons_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see
below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place
Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, <a href = "#page31">page
31</a>. The <a href = "#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a>, page 40.
The galleries in the <a href = "#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a>,
page 35. The <a href = "#lyons_silk_museum">museum of silk
manufacture</a>, page 38.</p>
<p>Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest
rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach
each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part
of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,
the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the
R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful
squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place
Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In
the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke,
which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the
municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour
(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with
trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,
which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in
1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two
squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,
during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,
on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings
pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see
page 37).</p>
<p>The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of
substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24
miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux
Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind
the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short
sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient,
page 31.</p>
<!-- png 063 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 33</span>
<a name = "map33" id = "map33" href = "images/map33.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map33thumb.png" width = "337" height = "547"
alt = "larger map of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a>
</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway.</span></p>
<p>The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of <a name =
"lyons_notre_dame" id =
"lyons_notre_dame"><b>Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière</b></a>, standing on the
site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere;
whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be
visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything
else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained
from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of
<b>Tilsitt</b> across the Saône, at the upper side of
<span class = "pagenum">33</span>
<a name = "page33" id = "page33"> </a>
<!-- png 064 -->
the “Place,” is the <a name = "lyons_rope_railway" id =
"lyons_rope_railway">rope railway</a>, which ascends through tunnels the
hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the
way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by
the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a
large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to
the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has
accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman
palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this
hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière,
lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the
pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,
medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and
hotels.</p>
<p>On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône,
is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from
which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high.
This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb
view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are
immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont
Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church
below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.
The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,
which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.
It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object
in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an
octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the
four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three
large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top
of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff
sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the
neighbourhood are convents.
<span class = "headnote float">
Lyons: Observatoire Gay.<br>
St. Paul.</span>
A little eastward is the “<a name = "lyons_observatoire_gay" id =
"lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay</a>,” from which a steep path,
the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city,
reaching it by the side of the station of the <a href =
"#lyons_stations">Chemin de Fer des Dombes</a> (page 30). Near this
station is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_paul" id =
"lyons_st_paul"><b>St. Paul</b></a>, all modern excepting the beautiful
N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches,
a few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the
original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the
early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the
stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St.
Vincent.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">34</span>
<a name = "page34" id = "page34"> </a>
<!-- png 065 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: St. Irénée.</span></p>
<p>The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42
Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short
distance of the church of <a name = "lyons_st_irenee" id =
"lyons_st_irenee"><b>St. Irénée</b></a>, on the summit of a hill in the
suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a
Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by
the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance
into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,
which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the
first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St.
Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St.
Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre
St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y
furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in
1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of
animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée,
restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the
saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first
flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the
original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were
thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,
<span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 202. To visit the calvary and
crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing
particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of
the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It
was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day.
At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Cathedral of St. Jean.</span></p>
<p>Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the
Tilsit bridge, is the <a name = "lyons_cathedral" id =
"lyons_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th
cent., repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and
reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates
from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the
13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely
decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from
W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th
cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown
flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right
hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother
Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,
and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of
the arches and the vault of the roof are richly
<span class = "pagenum">35</span>
<a name = "page35" id = "page35"> </a>
<!-- png 066 -->
decorated. In the N. transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas
Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St.
Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek, who preached in this city <span class =
"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, and sealed his doctrines with his blood.
Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., formerly the
bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.</p>
<p>A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)
occupied in the 13th cent. by the <b>Knight Templars</b>. Above the
cathedral is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of
the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade
of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the
court rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up—the Pont
de Nemours—leads directly to the church of <b>Saint Nizier</b>,
with the façade towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de
l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by
Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent.
The rest of the building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a
broad triforium with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the
church. The vaulting shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In
the chapel of the south transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the
foot of the pier in this transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th
cent. At the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre,
a modern edifice, with a beautiful portal of the 11th cent., all
that remains of the original church.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Palais des Beaux-Arts. Musée Lapidaire.</span></p>
<p>On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the <a name =
"lyons_beaux_arts" id = "lyons_beaux_arts"><b>Palais des
Beaux-Arts</b></a>, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames
Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the
museums. Open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from
11 to 4, and to strangers daily.</p>
<p>Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are
the ancient marbles or <a name = "lyons_lapidaire" id =
"lyons_lapidaire"><b>Musée Lapidaire</b></a>, one of the best in Europe.
The sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs,
in many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these
records of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the
Augustan age upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of
that day were already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner
of the court on entering is the stair which leads up to the
Archæological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both on the first floor.
Up on the second floor is the collection of paintings by the “peintres
lyonnais.”</p>
<span class = "pagenum">36</span>
<a name = "page36" id = "page36"> </a>
<!-- png 067 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Musée Archéologique.</span></p>
<p>The <a name = "lyons_archeologique" id =
"lyons_archeologique"><b>Musée Archéologique</b></a> is well arranged
and carefully labelled. The only object we would indicate, as it is apt
to be overlooked, is the bronze table, <span class =
"smallroman">A.D.</span> 48, in the second room left hand, with
inscribed portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor,
imploring the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a
Roman colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This
table was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien.
Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla,
were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time
prefect of Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs
in hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,
armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,
rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on
the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic
collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at
Lyons from 43 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> to 1857. Adjoining
and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, contained in six small
rooms, of which the first three contain the Flemish and Dutch schools,
the next two the Italian and Spanish schools, and the sixth the French
school. They are all carefully labelled. Among the pictures which
represent the Flemish school are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers,
Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael.
The Italian and Spanish schools are represented by Canaletto, Sasso
Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor
of the fourth room is a remarkably perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by
3, representing chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the
church of Ainay.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Galerie Chenavard.</span></p>
<p>In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the <a name =
"lyons_gallery" id = "lyons_gallery"><b>Galerie Chenavard</b></a> on the
first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him illustrative of the
scenes which accompanied the introduction of Christianity into France.
They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason
supervening, they were not sent. On the floors are three beautiful
mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above are the best
pictures—J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,
P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci,
1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David,
1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674;
Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo,
1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension
of Christ, considered the gem of the collection.
<span class = "pagenum">37</span>
<a name = "page37" id = "page37"> </a>
<!-- png 068 -->
This picture, originally in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was
presented by Pope Pio VII. “in attestato del suo affetto é della grata
sua rimembranza per la citta di Lione.” The lower part of the picture is
by far the best, the figures in the air are too massive, and the posture
of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud,
1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto,
1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur,
1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.</p>
<p class = "mynote">
* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743.</p>
<p>The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the
<a name = "lyons_minerals" id = "lyons_minerals"><b>Mineralogical
Collection</b></a>, in which are represented the characteristic rocks
and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores from the
mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000
engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the
arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every
evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Place Terreaux. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p>
<p>On the north side of the <a name = "lyons_terreaux" id =
"lyons_terreaux"><b>Place des Terreaux</b></a> is the <a name =
"lyons_hotel_ville" id = "lyons_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>,
built in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by
domed square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is
1150 ft. long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture.
From the centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over
the entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within
the vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the
brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood
originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.</p>
<p>In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu,
in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting
in the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it
became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the
executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish
this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Condition des Soies. Library. Bourse. Silk Museum.</span></p>
<p>Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7,
is the establishment of the <a name = "lyons_soies" id =
"lyons_soies"><b>Condition des Soies</b></a>, where the bales of silk
brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron
grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from
64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.
The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first
story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St.
Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite
end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">38</span>
<a name = "page38" id = "page38"> </a>
<!-- png 069 -->
<p>In the Rue de la République is the <a name = "lyons_bourse" id =
"lyons_bourse"><b>Bourse</b></a>, a profusely ornamented edifice
inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built in the
14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée with
the <a name = "lyons_library" id = "lyons_library">public library</a>,
containing the great terrestrial globe made at Lyons in 1701, indicating
the great African lakes, the rediscovery of which has been one of the
events of the present century. There are 160,000 volumes and 2500
manuscripts,—about 600 of the printed works being incunabula, and
25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian period.</p>
<p>In the second story of the Bourse is the <a name =
"lyons_silk_museum" id = "lyons_silk_museum">museum of the <b>Art and
Manufacture of silk</b></a>. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays
between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,
specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to
centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far
the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first
and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly
artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely
designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the
hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting
posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also
the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms
from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains
part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom
made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to
produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely
changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same
loom. Near the loom is the first <a name = "lyons_sewing_machine" id =
"lyons_sewing_machine"><b>sewing machine</b></a>. The inventor was
B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are
improved copies.</p>
<p>The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of
silk—displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori,
as well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every
condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and
hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.
Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.</p>
<p>Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for
these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to
hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals,
have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure
is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion,
<span class = "pagenum">39</span>
<a name = "page39" id = "page39"> </a>
<!-- png 070 -->
which makes a silk dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly,
with an occasional alteration, it was worn for years.</p>
<p>In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large
covered markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive
in tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway
travelling provision. (See <a href = "#page42">page 42</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: City Hospital and Workhouse.</span></p>
<p>Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and
the other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the
<a name = "lyons_hospital" id = "lyons_hospital"><b>Hôtel Dieu</b></a>, or
general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by Childebert
and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally the work
of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, about
1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per day. The
rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards are
arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under the
small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from
their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,
containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are
tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the
Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at
Oullins for incurables.</p>
<p>In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.
Temple, the Narcissa of his <i>Night Thoughts</i>, who died in 1730 at
Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a
built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it
is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.</p>
<p>Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly
decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,
of Sainte Valentine.</p>
<p>Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531,
on the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes
who have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be
mothers. The church was built in 1617.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: St. Martin d’Ainay.</span></p>
<p>North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across
the Saône, is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_martin" id =
"lyons_st_martin"><b>St. Martin d’Ainay</b></a>, which, with the
monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine,
on the site of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour
of Cæsar Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the
Saracens, in the 8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in
1106 by Pope Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired
and altered. The style belongs to what is called modern
<span class = "pagenum">40</span>
<a name = "page40" id = "page40"> </a>
<!-- png 071 -->
Greek, introduced into France under Charlemagne. The cupola of the
chancel rests on circular pendentive arches springing from four granite
columns which stood formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were
originally 2, but were cut into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal
chapels are by H. Flandrin, a native of <b>Lyons</b>. To the
right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint Blandina, in which a short
stair leads down to the crypt and the dungeons, one on each side, where
Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and Blandina, a converted slave,
were kept before being tortured and put to death in <span class =
"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, during the persecution under Marcus
Antoninus, the implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft.
square, was, as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on
account of the overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to
their present level.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Lyons: Parc de la Tête-d’Or.</span></p>
<p>The <a name = "lyons_park" id = "lyons_park"><b>Parc de la
Tête-d’Or</b></a>, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E. extremity
of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the left bank of
the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an abundant
supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden with
hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a
dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale.
Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the
Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of
objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history,
religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The
institution publishes essays and translations.</p>
<p>By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large
barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.</p>
<p>Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of
silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on
the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom
has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings,
are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can
work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more
<i>compagnons</i>, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La
Croix Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the
Saône. The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of
looms, who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a
finished state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is
estimated at £15,000,000.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "dyeing_silk" id = "dyeing_silk">
<span class = "headnote">The Dyeing of Silk—Origin of
Lyons.</span></a></p>
<p>The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture.
Many experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and
<span class = "pagenum">41</span>
<a name = "page41" id = "page41"> </a>
<!-- png 072 -->
in particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its
colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he
received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour.
Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a
brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand.
Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a
permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk
were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The
worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed
in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of
persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is
now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of
gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries,
foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and
hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large
trade is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring
departments, and known as <i>marrons de Lyon</i>.</p>
<p><a name = "lyons_origin" id = "lyons_origin">The earliest Gallic
occupants</a> of the territory at the confluence of the Rhône and the
Saône were the Segusians. In 590 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>
some Greek refugees from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained
permission of the natives to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse,
called their new town by the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 <span class
= "smallroman">B.C.</span> Munatius Plancus brought a Roman colony to
Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired importance, and
was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great roads. Augustus,
besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, gave it a senate and
made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies from the sixty cities
of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of Forum Vetus and the
municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the <i>jus senatus</i>.
The town, burnt by Nero in 59 <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span>,
was rebuilt by him in a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian,
and Antoninus.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont-d’Or.</span></p>
<p>Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions
from Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus
starting from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St.
Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, 3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending.
Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on
a wide terrace commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is
poor and dirty, and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont
Ceindre walk from the omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend
by the telegraph posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent
<span class = "pagenum">42</span>
<a name = "page42" id = "page42"> </a>
<!-- png 073 -->
and descent can be done easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to
Lyons by the returning coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some
houses, an old hermitage, and a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary.
The view is grand, embracing the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the
towns of Bugey and Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné,
and the Alps. Mont Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020
ft.; and Mont Houx, 2008 ft., form together <a name = "lyons_mont_dor"
id = "lyons_mont_dor"><b>Mont-d’Or</b></a>, a group of mountains
covered with vineyards and meadows.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lyons_cheese" id =
"lyons_cheese">
Cheese.</a></span>
The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the best and most celebrated
in France. They are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches in diameter
and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. They are made from a
mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to derive their peculiar
flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats feed during a
considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore (likewise
famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small boxes.
The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by Roche-Cardon,
a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy excursion
is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) going up the
Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat going to St.
Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank, 1½ m.
above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of Cuire.
In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the bridge
passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, and the
tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail is the
best part of the excursion, not the island.</p>
<p>For <a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">Lyons to Nîmes</a>, by rail 172 m.
south by the west bank of the Rhône, see p. 81; <a class = "turin"
href = "turin.html#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons</a> by
Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#paris_to_lyons_tarare">Paris to Lyons</a> by Tarare,
p. 348; <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#lyons_to_clermont">Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand</a> by St.
Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and <a href =
"#map27">map p. 27</a>.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vienne.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">338</span>
<span class = "miles to">199</span>
<a name = "vienne" id = "vienne"><b>VIENNE</b></a>, pop. 27,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the capital of the first
kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of important edifices, which
indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in the days of Cicero were no
strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding the Augustan age. The most
interesting of these is the <b>Maison Carrée</b>, an oblong temple of
the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia, 55 ft.
high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way north from the
cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace fronting the chain
bridge is <b>St. Maurice</b>, a beautiful Gothic cathedral
commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the
<span class = "pagenum">43</span>
<a name = "page43" id = "page43"> </a>
<!-- png 074 -->
roof of the nave 88 ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the
altar the skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died
in 1723. At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other
end of the chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe
Valois. Up the Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot,
near a stair leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil,
where Pontius Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended
his life (it is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About
¼ m. down the Rhône from the railway station, by the Marseilles
road, is the Pyramide de l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It
is 52 feet high, and rises from four arches resting on a square
basement. Columns with cushioned capitals ornament the four corners,
which cannot date earlier than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial
town, with important woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is
Vaugris, pop. 250. On the other side of the Rhône is <a href =
"#ampuis">Ampuis</a> (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le
Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village
among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château
de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the
year was to commence with the first of January.</p>
<p class = "headnote">>
<span class = "headnote">St. Rambert-d’Albon. Tain.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">356½</span>
<span class = "miles to">180½</span>
<a name = "st_rambert" id = "st_rambert"><b>ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON</b></a>,
junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by Rives 35 m., and
Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m.
W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to <a href =
"#annonay">Annonay</a> (see page 81, and map <a href = "#map27">pages
26</a> and <a href = "#map46">46</a>).</p>
<p>5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000.
<i>Inn:</i> Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the
town is the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of
the Galaure are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of
the Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see <a href =
"#map46">map, page 46</a>).</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">368</span>
<span class = "miles to">169</span>
<a name = "tain" id = "tain"><b>TAIN</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i>
H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the Rhône, immediately
opposite <a href = "#tournon">Tournon</a> (page 82), and at the foot of
the hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety
has a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a
luxurious wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence
and Voiron (see <a href = "#map46">map page 46</a>), pop. 13,000.
<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with
the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with
Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.</span></p>
<span class = "pagenum">44</span>
<a name = "page44" id = "page44"> </a>
<!-- png 075 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Valence.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">384</span>
<span class = "miles to">153</span>
<a name = "valence" id = "valence"><b>VALENCE</b></a>, pop. 24,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first the most expensive.
Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge
across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. west. Coaches daily
to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an eminence rising from the
Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the site of the old
fortifications. The most handsome is the Place Championnet, on the site
of the citadel, commenced by François. It commands an excellent view of
the river and of the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on an
arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “au
General Championnet, sorti des rangs du peuple. Hommage public de sa
ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.</p>
<p>To the left of the statue is the cathedral <b>St. Apollinaire</b>,
built in 1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower
were rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable
appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves.
A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the
round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by
restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached
Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of
the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone.
From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being
occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust
by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His
remains were removed to Rome.</p>
<p>Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral
chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in
1548. On each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably
flat dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes,
built in 1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under
canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading
into the court are in a much better state of preservation.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their
transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent.,
and a picture gallery.</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vernoux. Coaches from Valence.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "valence_to_grenoble" id = "valence_to_grenoble">Rail to
Grenoble</a>, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus
daily to <a href = "#st_peray">St. Péray</a> (p. 82). Coach by St.
Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. <a name = "vernoux" id =
"vernoux"><b>Vernoux</b></a> 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100.
<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in
Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and
valleys. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">45</span>
<a name = "page45" id = "page45"> </a>
<!-- png 076 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "valence_coaches" id = "valence_coaches"><b>Valence</b></a> is
one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences
from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St.
Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a>
(see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes,
Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at
St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two
diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At
Ollières, H. du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence
from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire
to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard.
Valence is 5 hrs. from St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs.
St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see
also <a href = "#page93">pages 93 and 94</a>). Coach from Valence to La
Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a
mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the
sun.</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "caption">
<span class = "smallcaps">ARDECHE<br>
its vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes.</span></p>
<!-- png 078 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 46</span>
<i>For continuation northwards see map, page 167.</i><br>
<a name = "map46" id = "map46" href = "images/map46.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map46thumb.png" width = "461" height = "233"
alt = "map of Ardêche"></a><br>
<i>For map of the Mountains of Ardeche see <a href = "#map84">page
84</a>.<br>
For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</i>
</p>
</div>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ardeche" id = "ardeche">
ARDÈCHE.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip center">
(See <a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September.
In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best
houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of
fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread
often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is potatoes
sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a pleasant soup
of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are required for the
accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which each hamlet has at
least 2, while the larger villages and towns have from 4 to 8, besides
market-days. One of the prettiest sights in Ardèche is to see the people
flocking from every direction along the winding mountain roads to the
village where the fair is being held—many on foot driving small
parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of
eggs, cheese, and butter, and often an old hen; others with carts loaded
with potatoes; others travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and
others on horseback, the women as well as the men being astride.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight forbidding,
but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of things improves
rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural products are potatoes
and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and
cherry trees, cultivated on terraces supported by low stone walls of
rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in the lowest zone, on the sunny side
of the mountains. The cattle are of a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured
and light brown, with large bones and white horns generally tipped with
black.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and grown-up
women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above 8s., and
many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman shears it off
in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only
<span class = "pagenum">46</span>
<a name = "page46" id = "page46"> </a>
<!-- png 077 -->
a little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank,
and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take
the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females
during their long winters is lace-making.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont
Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The most
central station of the diligences is <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le
Cheilard</a> (see page 83).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts
of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and
23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Livron. Crest.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">395</span>
<span class = "miles to">142</span>
<a name = "livron" id = "livron"><b>LIVRON</b></a>, pop. 4500, on the
Drôme, at some distance from the station. Restaurants at station. Inns
in the town. On the other side of the Rhône, connected by railway
bridge, is <a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a>, 1¼ m. W. (see
p. 82).
<span class = "sidetrip">
A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from Livron,
68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and Marseilles.
As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the picturesque and
well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is a large Protestant
population, nearly every village having its Temple Protestant (see maps,
<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and <a href
= "#map56">56</a>).</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
11 miles E. from Livron by rail is <a name = "crest" id =
"crest"><b>Crest</b></a>, pop. 6000. <i>Hotels:</i> Bonsans-Reboul, the
best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, by the side of the
river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The omnibuses of the two
hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly on the Drôme and
partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the foot, in the
market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. Straight up
from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of 116 steps, is
the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde, attached to
the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the hospital
and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the enclosure, on which
stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly the remains of a castle
which was added to it in the 13th cent. The highest side is 170 ft.
above the ground, and the other three 148 ft., ascended by 260 steps.
Although so high, the view is limited by the high side, into which
visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives below in the town, near
the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the first narrow street, left
from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which continue to a stone
lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend by the path, right, to the
Calvary, where there is a splendid view of the valley of the Drôme.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coaches daily from <a name = "crest_to_montelimart" id =
"crest_to_montelimart">Crest to Montelimart</a>, 22½ m. S.W. (see
Index); also to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the
copious source of the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout.
3 miles from Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach
also to Bourdeaux, 16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest
(see <a href = "#map56">map, p. 56</a>).
<span class = "headnote float">
Saou.</span>
<a name = "saou" id = "saou"><b>Saou</b></a>, pronounced Sou, pop. 1200,
is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. <i>Inn:</i> H. Lattard. Mixed
up with and built into the surrounding squalid houses are the remains of
the abbey church and
<span class = "pagenum">47</span>
<a name = "page47" id = "page47"> </a>
<!-- png 079 -->
buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are
the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are
within the court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th
and 13th cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of
the narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains,
from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata
piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic forms.
It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the
commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream, is
the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the other
side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. Mt.
Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called the
Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square house,
with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best parts of
the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its termination, where
the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of 5324 ft. above the
sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At the foot of Mt.
Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley becomes so narrow
that there is scarcely sufficient room for the stream to pass through.
2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, a little beyond,
the terminus of the valley.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourdeaux. Dieulefit.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. <a name = "bourdeaux" id =
"bourdeaux"><b>Bourdeaux</b></a>, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> Blanc; Petit;
Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N. from
Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, composed of
squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping up the hill,
crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the 8th cent.
Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief industries.
Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the courrier
requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain ridge, the
Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "dieulefit" id = "dieulefit"><b>Dieulefit</b></a>, pop. 5000.
<i>Inns:</i> H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the Jabron at the
foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart, between
which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are silk, cotton,
and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a coarse kitchen
ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to Montelimart are
Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under
Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a
considerable distance from the road (see <a href = "#map56">map, page
56</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Die.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "crest_to_aspres" id = "crest_to_aspres">
CREST TO ASPRES</a></h5>
<p class = "center">(Maps, pp. 46 and 56).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<i>Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die.</i>—The road as far as
the Pass de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town
passed is Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i>
Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is
Pontaix, similarly situated. 23 m. <ins class = "correction" title
= "text reads ‘L.’">E.</ins> from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres,
is <a name = "die" id = "die"><b>Die</b></a>, pop. 4000, the principal
town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the Mérosse.
<i>Inns:</i> St. Dominique; Alpes—the coach stops between them;
Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank
during its first year;
<span class = "pagenum">48</span>
<a name = "page48" id = "page48"> </a>
<!-- png 080 -->
in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach to Châtillon, 12 m.
S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain surrounded by mountains, of
which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, 6648 ft. above the sea,
flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top is an undulating plateau,
covered with <i>small</i> stones and grass; 5 hrs. required for the
ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the rustic but not uncomfortable
establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; pension per day, with baths,
9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses.” The bath
resembles a large oven, in which, after having been heated with resinous
fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish bath. Open from 15th June to
15th September. The landlord is likewise proprietor of a large part of
Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his supplies of fir-wood. On the top of
a hill on the other side of the Drôme is a similar establishment, called
the Martouret, pension 12 frs. The way to it strikes off the main road
opposite the eminence, on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding
a very good view of the valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at
one of the old gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which
makes the tour of the ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry
trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better
gateway or Roman triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The
parish church has been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Luc. Aspres.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which
changes horses at <a name = "luc_en_diois" id = "luc_en_diois"><b>LUC en
Diois</b></a>, pop. 940. <i>Inn:</i> Du Levant; Église Protestante,
10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town,
among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high
mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost
closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from
the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of
Beaurières (<i>Inn</i>, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is
now commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres,
15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from
Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall 195
ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre
d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to
the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing
mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best when
2 years old. <a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>Aspres</b></a>, pop.
800, is situated on the railway, 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and
77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach sets down passengers either at
the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand. The church has been
rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the tympanum a curious
representation of the Trinity.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montélimart.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">412</span>
<span class = "miles to">125</span>
<a name = "montelimart" id = "montelimart"><b>MONTÉLIMART</b></a>, pop.
12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion and Jabron with the
Rhône. <i>Hotels:</i> near the station, the France; in the town the
Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for <a href =
"#le_teil">Le Teil</a>, on the W. side of the Rhône; for <a href =
"#grignan">Grignan</a>, p. 49; <a href =
"#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a>, p. 47; <a href =
"#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a>, p. 47; and <a href =
"#nyons">Nyons</a>, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and Princes. Up
the Grande Rue is the principal
<span class = "pagenum">49</span>
<a name = "page49" id = "page49"> </a>
<!-- png 081 -->
church. On the opposite side of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post
Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the
first flight of steps in the Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long
and 2 ft. wide, bearing in Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198.
At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the
Temple Protestant. Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake,
“Nougat,” of which the best is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an
eminence on the side of the town farthest from the station are the
ancient citadel and the tour de Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart,
originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement under the
name of Montilium, which was changed afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar
by a powerful family, who came into possession of it in the days of
Charlemagne. To the same family belonged also <a href =
"#rochemaure">Rochemaure</a>, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see
page 92, and <a href = "#map56">map page 56</a>).</p>
<p>Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau,
2½ m. S.E.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by
Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer.
(See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.)</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of <a name = "alan" id =
"alan"><b>Alan</b></a>, half-way between Montelimart and Grignan, “there
existed down to 1802 the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It
was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one
of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign,
in 1494.” The mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of
France than the olive (see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Grignan. Marquise de Sévigné.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "grignan" id = "grignan"><b>Grignan</b></a>, pop. 1900;
<i>Inn:</i> Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill on the top of
which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and ugly half-ruined
and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. The former Salle du
Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, containing upwards of 300
paintings, among which the most interesting are—the portraits of
Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About half-way up the hill is the
church, commenced in the 12th cent. <a name = "sevigne" id =
"sevigne">In front of the altar</a> a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by
1½ wide, bears the following inscription:— “Cy Git Marie de
Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above
the well, in the “Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew
curls. About ½ m. from the town is what was one of her favourite
walks to an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de
Roche-Courbière. To visit it, descend from the inn, then take the first
byeroad right, by a row of poplars to a short stair. A coach runs
from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan.
<a name = "valreas" id = "valreas"><b>Valréas</b></a> (pronounce the “s”),
8¼ m. from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; <i>Inn:</i>
H. du Nord, is partly surrounded with its old walls, garnished with
square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W.
<span class = "pagenum">50</span>
<a name = "page50" id = "page50"> </a>
<!-- png 082 -->
from Nyons by Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, <i>Inn:</i> H. du
Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partly surrounded with its old walls.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">420</span>
<span class = "miles to">117</span>
<a name = "donzere" id = "donzere"><b>DONZERE</b></a>. H. du
Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four and a half miles
south is <b>Pierrelatte</b> station, and the terminus of the unfinished
railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time 45
minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an interesting
cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics have been found
in the neighbourhood.</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Croisiere.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">432</span>
<span class = "miles to">105</span>
<a name = "la_croisiere" id = "la_croisiere"><b>LA CROISIERE.</b></a>
Two small inns at station.
<span class = "sidetrip">
Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe,
3½ m. W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars.
Fare, 40 c. The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in
1265 and finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at
the W. end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for
the convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For <a href =
"#pont_st_esprit">Pont Saint-Esprit</a>, see page 98).</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the
valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000.
<i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures
of fire-bricks and clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop.
2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300;
<i>Inn:</i> Vigne. Horses changed here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice,
pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres a
cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons the
coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H. du Louvre; whence the
diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see <a href =
"#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nyons.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "nyons" id = "nyons"><b>NYONS</b></a>, on the Aigues, pop.
4000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre, in the Place; Voyageurs, in a corner.
Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high
mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and therefore eminently
fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The orange and palm do not
grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear
trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine truffles. Silk mills and
the preserving of fruit and truffles supply the principal industries.
The old town, called Les Forts, is built on an eminence partly
surrounded with its old walls garnished with square towers, 14th cent.
The vieux château, or centre tower, has been converted by the curate
into a chapel surmounted with an image of the “immaculately conceived.”
The part of the town below is called Les Halles, whose dirty streets are
bordered with thick heavy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the
Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch
and considerably higher in the centre than at the ends.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
The Pontias Breeze.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is
the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that
the night-breeze called the <a name = "pontias" id =
"pontias">Pontias</a> issues. In winter this wind is very
<span class = "pagenum">51</span>
<a name = "page51" id = "page51"> </a>
<!-- png 083 -->
cold, and blows from 5 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 9 <span
class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> In summer it is pleasant, and blows
from 9 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 7 <span class =
"smallroman">A.M.</span> The peculiarity is, that the degree of force is
constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, commence
from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the Rue
Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last tower
a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a small
chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a pavilion.
Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the part of the
ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the back of the
ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by this latter way
retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path for 116 yards;
while those who have come by the other go 116 yards beyond the chapel.
Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be observed the thin
ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is the entrance to the
Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of insignificant dimension.
Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are several crevices. The view
of the valley of the Aigues from this hill is very beautiful. The ascent
takes 35 minutes.</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nyons_to_serres" id = "nyons_to_serres">
NYONS TO SERRES.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Nyons to Serres</b> (see <a href = "#map56">map, p. 56</a>), 41 miles
east by the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by
high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns
passed are at a considerable height above the road, and sometimes on
account of the steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first
village passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons,
and 3½ m. from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from
Nyons. A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of
the river, here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill
on the S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the
mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road
crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St.
May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on
the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty
precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the
village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its
junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of
the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m.
from Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or
15½ m. from Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col
of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the
Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200.
<i>Inns:</i> Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from
Marseilles and 77½ S. from <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (see p. 340).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Orange.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">444</span>
<span class = "miles to">93</span>
<a name = "orange" id = "orange"><b>ORANGE</b></a>, pop. 10,300.
<i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the
Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to the hotel is
the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour of Tiberius
for his victory over Sacrovir and
<span class = "pagenum">52</span>
<a name = "page52" id = "page52"> </a>
<!-- png 084 -->
Floras, <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 21. It stands E. and W.,
is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep, and
consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. and
each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented with
six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved
Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the
shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows,
etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a
combat.</p>
<p>At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre
at the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The
<b>Cathedral</b> of Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in
style the churches of the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of
Perpignan is the great type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels
between the buttresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory
windows. A plain and ugly square tower, in this case, at the east
end. Adjoining is the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to
“Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem
en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the town, the Cours St. Martin, is a
statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture, and a
native of Orange; where also he died in 1862. At the foot of the hill,
overlooking the town, are the grand and imposing ruins of one of the
most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in a semicircular form, has a
façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The wall is 13 ft. thick, composed
of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular wall consists of five stages,
and included accommodation for 6500 spectators. The building has
recently been repaired and cleared of a quantity of rubbish.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "prince_orange" id = "prince_orange">
<span class = "headnote">Prince Of Orange and Orangemen.</span></a></p>
<p>In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably
under Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just
been noticed. On the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third
line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René
(Renatus) of Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his
successor his cousin William I., stadtholder of the United
Netherlands. The title “Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the
stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I.,
William II., and William III. After the Revolution in Ireland
of 1688, the English-Protestant party were designated Orangemen, from
the title of their leader, William III., Prince of Orange. Louis
XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace
of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there were two
claimants—John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by
William’s will, and Frederick I, King of
<span class = "pagenum">53</span>
<a name = "page53" id = "page53"> </a>
<!-- png 085 -->
Prussia, who claimed to be nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by
the will of Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the
principality a forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to
the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last
prince should have the <i>dominium utile</i>; and its finding was
confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the
title and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still styled
Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). John William Friso, however, also
took the title, and his successors the stadtholders and kings of the
Netherlands have all been designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast
numbers of silkworms are reared at Orange. Coach daily to <a href =
"#valreas">Valréas</a> 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison
17½ m. N.E. (Map <a href = "#page56">p. 56</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Vaison. St. Quenin.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "vaison" id = "vaison"><b>Vaison</b></a>, pop. 3400.
<i>Inn:</i> H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene,
17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m.
W. from Le Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is
on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are
connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the
left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with
its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned
with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse,
in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a
small square tower at one of the angles. A little below is the
parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at
S.E. end. The view from the terrace is beautiful.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and
very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town,
where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle.
Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman
theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is <a name = "st_quenin" id =
"st_quenin"><b>St. Quenin</b></a>, while a little beyond is the
cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as they call it, is built
on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange,
but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five
tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest
stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow
road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from
the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or
apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an
attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the
angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The
neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is
evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Of the <b>Cathedral</b> the best part is also the outside. Under the
eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of
medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are
pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.
<span class = "pagenum">54</span>
<a name = "page54" id = "page54"> </a>
<!-- png 086 -->
The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed
arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered
pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also
pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent.; but
the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on
colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N.E. side,
rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful
cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St.
Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13
arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At the corners is either a
massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman
antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The
most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill
opposite the castle stands an image of the “Immaculée” on the capital
and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map <a href =
"#page56">p. 56</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sorgues. Carpentras.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">455</span>
<span class = "miles to">82</span>
<a name = "sorgues" id = "sorgues"><b>SORGUES</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the
Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction with line to Carpentras,
10½ m. eastwards. <a name = "carpentras" id =
"carpentras"><b>Carpentras</b></a>, pop. 10,500, on an eminence
surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. <i>Hotels:</i> Universe;
Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the Hôtel-Dieu,
built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a portrait by
Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the centre of
the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie d’Inguimbert.
From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public building is
the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of
the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of
Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a
pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.
Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a
“Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the
pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk
to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is
the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull
and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of
J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of Mary
painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another “Coronation”
by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein.
Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix
in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal
arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. high (but
originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. span. On the
N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief,
a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a
prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From
the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is
a similar cross, but not in
<span class = "pagenum">55</span>
<a name = "page55" id = "page55"> </a>
<!-- png 087 -->
such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem
of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte
d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only three
sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded the
town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the
boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal aqueduct,
to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the
two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N.W. to S.E.,
with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras
crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The canal, which
by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the
Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost £90,000. In
the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved
fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum.
The library contains a valuable collection of manuscripts, explained in
a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols., for
which there is not sufficient accommodation.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "carpentras_museum" id =
"carpentras_museum">
Carpentras: Museum.</a></span>
In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze
and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at
Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone
slab, 4th or 3d cent. <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, 19¼ in.
long by 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow
borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with uplifted
hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are
sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment,
is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed
Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary
funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic
inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first
French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "truffles" id = "truffles">
Truffles.</a></span>
Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or
white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has the
smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse,
they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below the
ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and
of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to
the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and
decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black,
hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and
shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may
weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are sought by means of
dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more
dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards
of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a
masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the
truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the
truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two
<span class = "pagenum">56</span>
<a name = "page56" id = "page56"> </a>
<!-- png 088 -->
acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the
search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Ortolans.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The <a name = "ortolans" id = "ortolans"><b>ortolans</b></a>, which
breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While
on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans
singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are
fattened. In about a month’s time they become so plump as hardly to be
able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for
alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred
from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and
wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,”
a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike
barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is
Eysseric.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from
the Riviera—the hotels are comfortable and the prices
moderate—excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the
vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras
6½ m., and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by
Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to
Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E., passing through Malaucene. Coach
from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to
Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28½ m. E.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to
L’Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.
Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by
Venasque 7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and <a href =
"#map56">maps pages 56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "caption">
<span class = "smallcaps">THE PLAINS<br>
between the ARDECHE,<br>
the RHONE and the DURANCE.</span></p>
<!-- png 089 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 56</span>
[West End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map46">map,
page 46</a>.</i><br>
[East End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br>
<a name = "map56" id = "map56" href = "images/map56.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map56thumb.png" width = "462" height = "235"
alt = "the plains"></a><br>
<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br>
[West End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map66">map,
page 66</a>.</i><br>
[East End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a class = "riviera" href
= "riviera.html#map163">map, page 163</a>.</i>
</p>
</div>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bedoin. Mont Ventoux.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coach daily to <a name = "bedoin" id = "bedoin"><b>Bedoin</b></a> 8¾ m.
N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Mont
Ventoux. Station to ascend <a name = "mont_ventoux" id =
"mont_ventoux"><b>Mont Ventoux</b></a>, 6274 ft., by a good road from
the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 m. from the village
and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope. Time to ascend, from
5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. Before commencing the
ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a
general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those
mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little distance along it, at
a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off to the left and
ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a
splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top,
travellers generally start at 11 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>,
and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste.
Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure
range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in
every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper
and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre
de Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon,
a village 2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this
<span class = "pagenum">57</span>
<a name = "page57" id = "page57"> </a>
<!-- png 090 -->
neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of
sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "resin_baths" id = "resin_baths">
<span class = "headnote">Resin Baths. Malaucene.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of
<a name = "st_didier" id = "st_didier"><b>St. Didier</b></a>, with a good
hydropathic establishment in an old château. Rooms from 1½ fr. to
3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both
with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, breakfast and
dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr. First
consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but
in the guests’ room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the style of
the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated
with resin or is turpentinised (<i>térébenthiné</i>). It has a
beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2¾
m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (<a href =
"#map56">map p. 56</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m.
N.E., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing
the N.W. extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le
Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the
foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from
Buis, is <a name = "malaucene" id = "malaucene"><b>Malaucene</b></a>,
1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Cours, in a
picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the
calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is
the spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous
cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. The
stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in
motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit
the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene.
The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than
from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are
the springs—Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and
Font Filiole, 5866 ft.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the
Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with,
in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.
Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze
statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. No
public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the
length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St.
Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m.
E., Lacombe 13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the
road descends to the railway by the valley of the Céans.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Buis.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip space">
<a name = "le_buis" id = "le_buis"><b>LE BUIS</b></a>, pop. 2000;
<i>Inns:</i> Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouvèze
surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and
cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata cover some parts; at others
there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or
in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go
to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having
crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right
hand, which continue to the next
<span class = "pagenum">58</span>
<a name = "page58" id = "page58"> </a>
<!-- png 091 -->
bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right:
for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the
left, just before reaching the bridge.</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon" id = "avignon">
<span class = "headnote added">Avignon.</span></a></p>
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">59</span>
<a name = "page59" id = "page59"> </a>
<!-- png 092 -->
<a name = "map59" id = "map59" href = "images/map59.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map59thumb.png" width = "419" height = "324"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
<p class = "center smallroman">SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.</p>
<p class = "smaller">
<b>1.</b> Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the
Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of
Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the
hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the
Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the promenade is,
<b>2</b>, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a seminary. Below
the Pope’s Palace is <b>B</b>, the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, with the
H. de Ville and theatre. The street <b>C C</b>, extending southward
to the principal station, is called the R. de la Republique or Rue
Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, <b>3</b>, the Hotel de
Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S.W. is the Rue
Calade, with, at <b>4</b>, the Musée Calvet, and at
<b>5</b>, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien,
a museum of natural history. Farther east is, <b>6</b>, St.
Joseph’s College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers,
where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the
town, <b>7</b>, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, <b>O</b>,
beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while <b>8</b> indicates the
road to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de
Ville is, <b>9</b>, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far
from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the
Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the Place du
Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel
Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur.
17. Prison. 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house.
20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture. 22. Suspension Bridge.
23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais. B, Place de
l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue Calade.
F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie.
J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie.
M, Porte du Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St.
Lazarus. Q, Porte L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael.
S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de l’Oulle.</p>
</div>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">461</span>
<span class = "miles to">76</span>
<b>AVIGNON</b>, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls,
garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the
Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m.
N.E. from <b>Nîmes</b> by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and
Remoulins. <i>Hotels:</i> *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre;
St. Yves, in the centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great
market-place. Temple Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the
Préfecture. Cabstands at station and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
2 frs. per hour. From the station, a beautiful avenue, the
Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with
statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri IV., “Louis des
Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l’infanterie
française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading up
to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des Domes, and
the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the ramparts, compose
the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the palace lives just
within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite gate is the
Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The churches are
closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public on Sundays
between 12 and 4.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Avignon Palace.</span></p>
<p>The present <a name = "avignon_palace" id =
"avignon_palace"><b>Palace</b></a>, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336,
and finished by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure,
consisting of plain walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by
long ungainly buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway,
are the arms of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets,
the balcony from which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is
the Cour d’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls,
pierced by from 3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of
the same size. From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur,
a groined staircase, of which the steps were formerly of marble, to
the Salle Consistoriale d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before
this hall was divided into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170
long. From it we enter the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone
Memmi of Sienna. Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the
left the small window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby
tunnelled in the wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie
de Conclave, the Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then
enter the Tour St. Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office,
<span class = "pagenum">60</span>
<a name = "page60" id = "page60"> </a>
<!-- png 093 -->
or the chapel of the <b>Inquisition</b>, with mural paintings. In the
story immediately below is the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St.
Jean, after passing through a large hall, we enter an octagonal room,
gradually narrowing towards the centre, till it forms a chimney-tower,
called the Tour Strapade. Some say this was the torture room; but it is
evidently more suited for a kitchen, which in all probability it was.
Adjoining is the Glacière, into whose underground cellars, now built up,
the democrats of 1791 flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had
murdered. From this we enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour
Trouillas, in which Rienzi was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain
fixed to the roof of his cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305
to 1234, and till 1793, the half of Avignon was occupied by
ecclesiastical edifices, which tolled daily 300 bells, and had among
them a daily succession of religious processions.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Avignon: Rocher des Doms. Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town,
the <a name = "avignon_rocher" id = "avignon_rocher"><b>Rocher des
Doms</b></a>; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a public
garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who introduced, in
1766, the culture of the “garance,” the <i>Rubia tinctoria</i>, now
superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a stair leads down
to the Rhône near the <a href = "#avignon_benezet">Bridge Bénézet</a>
(see page 63). In the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and
on the other side are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of
Villeneuve, and above it the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the
Cathedral <a name = "avignon_cathedral" id =
"avignon_cathedral"><b>Notre-Dame-des-Doms</b></a>, 194 feet above the
Rhône, approached by a stair called the Pater, because originally it had
as many steps as there are words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has
undergone many changes, and belongs to various periods. The portal and
lower part of the tower are of the 10th cent., and are due to
Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries later. The apse was added in 1671.
The most remarkable part of the structure is the cupola, terminating in
an octagonal lantern, and supported on pendentive arches. It bears
traces of frescoes painted in 1672. In the sanctuary is the marble
throne used by the Popes, in the sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean
XXII., and in one of the side chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the
third chapel (right hand) is a Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The
sacristan is generally in the small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½
fr. for showing the church and the tomb.</p>
<p>Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end
a tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other
side of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the
<span class = "pagenum">61</span>
<a name = "page61" id = "page61"> </a>
<!-- png 094 -->
eastern end of the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts
every hour from the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops
at the east end of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Avignon: St. Agricol. Musée Calvet.</span></p>
<p>In the “Place” the principal edifice is the <a name =
"avignon_hotel_de_ville" id = "avignon_hotel_de_ville"><b>Hôtel de
Ville</b></a>, built in 1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th
cent, of which all that remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard
and his wife, from the two figures which strike the hours. Next the
Hôtel de Ville is the theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of
<a name = "avignon_st_agricol" id = "avignon_st_agricol"><b>St.
Agricol</b></a>, 1340, the patron saint of Avignon. To the right on
entering is the tomb of the painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April
1725, aged 86, and third chapel on same side is a virgin and child in
wood by Coysevox. To the left of the entrance is an ancient and elegant
marble baptismal font. At the foot of the short street St. Agricol, in
the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue
Calade is the <a name = "avignon_musee_calvet" id =
"avignon_musee_calvet"><b>Musée Calvet</b></a>, containing a valuable
collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4,
and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. Against the
wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this museum, Claud
François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On the right
is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to Laura de Sade,
dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the Cordeliers
(see <a href = "#page62">p. 62</a>). On the other side is the tomb
of the military strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the
outer court, and in the rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are
Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin
inscriptions, found in the neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and
<a href = "#vaison">Vaison</a> (p. 53). Among the sculptures in
relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses with their
hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent., from
Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches
and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope
Urbain V., of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal
Palice. Within railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian,
and a bather by Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is
a valuable collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and
medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes
during their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition
while here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings,
including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures
have the artists’ names affixed. Those
<span class = "pagenum">62</span>
<a name = "page62" id = "page62"> </a>
<!-- png 095 -->
in the great hall are by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon,
Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David,
*Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F. Floris, Gericault,
Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and N. Mignard, J. and
P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun., Veronese,
Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room are the paintings by
Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few by Paul Huet. The
marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. In the centre of an
inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is the famous ivory
crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting the arms,
a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said that
Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_musee_requien" id =
"avignon_musee_requien">
Avignon: Musée Requien.</a></span>
Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the
R. Petrarque or de la République, we have on the right the Museum
of Natural History in the church St. Martial, 15th cent. The greater
part of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851,
and of them the most interesting are those connected with the
neighbourhood, such as the flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the
fossils from Aix. In the eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at
No. 62 R. des Lices, is the Collége <a name = "avignon_st_joseph" id =
"avignon_st_joseph"><b>Saint Joseph</b></a>, containing within its
grounds all that remains (the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of
the church of the Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has
been repaired, and is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely
admitted. It is to the left of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no
vestiges, having been destroyed along with the church by an infuriated
mob in 1791. On the E. side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow
R. Prévot, is the church of <a name = "avignon_st_dedier" id =
"avignon_st_dedier"><b>St. Dedier</b></a>, 1355, containing, in first
chapel right from entrance, a relief in marble representing Christ
bearing his cross, executed by Francesco in 1481 at the request of King
René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. above the floor, is a stone
pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave of St. Bénézet is under a
plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front of the high altar. Near
St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and to the east of the
Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre (9 in plan),
1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The pictures about
the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and
Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and
Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town
<b>hospital</b> (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built
in the last century on the site of
<span class = "pagenum">63</span>
<a name = "page63" id = "page63"> </a>
<!-- png 096 -->
the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. Here, outside the
town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the left, is the
Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of the entrance.
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_j_s_mill" id =
"avignon_j_s_mill">
Avignon: J. S. Mill.</a></span>
In a corner at the end of a short avenue of pine trees is the white
marble monument to John Stuart Mill, b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th
May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet Mill, his beloved wife,
who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe, Nov. 3, 1858.
A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the whole
surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be
taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in
1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint,
and architect, <a name = "avignon_benezet" id =
"avignon_benezet"><b>Bénézet</b></a>, who before had constructed one
over the Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952
ft. long and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain.
<span class = "sidetrip">
On the second arch is the chapel of <a name = "avignon_st_nicolas" id =
"avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas</a>, in which the relics of St. Bénézet
were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Villeneuve-les-Avignon.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_villeneuve" id =
"avignon_to_villeneuve">
Avignon to Villeneuve.</a></h5>
<p>Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station,
while every hour an omnibus crosses for <a name = "villeneuve_avignon"
id = "villeneuve_avignon"><b>Villeneuve-les-Avignon</b></a>, pop. 3100,
2½ m. from the “Place,” or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near
the parish church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the
chapel to the left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty
elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs
is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture
belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two
subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different
artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads,
even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most
charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as
a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the
Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV.,
where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she
married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where
her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law,
the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she
steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her
drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on
the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times
with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to
be
<span class = "pagenum">64</span>
<a name = "page64" id = "page64"> </a>
<!-- png 097 -->
broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by
Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno.
Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in
the 14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing
extraordinary. Near it are the ruins of the
Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an eminence Fort André, now
inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for Avignon starts every hour
at the hour, from the apsidal end of the parish church of
Villeneuve.</p>
<p>Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the
Mistral, yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage,
“Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours
from the drains in some of the streets being very offensive.</p>
<p>Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was
forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General
Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery,
the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in
this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade,
opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Avignon to Nîmes.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_nimes" id =
"avignon_to_nimes">
Avignon to Nîmes.</a></h5>
<p>Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting
from the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those
wishing to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets
for the Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with
luggage, it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where,
without loss of time on arriving, take other tickets to the
Pont-du-Gard, leaving the luggage behind. Time will generally be saved
by returning from the Pont to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the
road, but 5 m. by the rail. See <a href = "#map56">Map,
p. 56</a>. For <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a> see p. <ins class
= "correction" title = "text reads ‘110’">101</ins>, and for the <a href
= "#pont_du_gard">Pont-du-Gard</a> see <ins class = "correction" title =
"text reads ‘114’">p. 104</ins>. Consult the “Indicateur des
Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
L’Isle. Fontaine de Vaucluse.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_vaucluse" id =
"avignon_to_vaucluse">
Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle.</a></h5>
<p>From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the
village of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. <a name = "lisle" id =
"lisle"><b>L’Isle</b></a>, pop. 7000, a village on the Sorgues,
with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome reredos over
high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent dates from the
11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle hotels, Petrarque et
Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take them to Vaucluse and
back for 4 frs. each. From the village of <a name = "vaucluse" id =
"vaucluse"><b>Vaucluse</b></a>, pop. 600, take for the fountain the road
on
<span class = "pagenum">65</span>
<a name = "page65" id = "page65"> </a>
<!-- png 098 -->
the right bank of stream, but for the house and garden of Petrarch take
the left side, crossing the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff
near the cloth mill, is a small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of
which it is a copy. Before it, is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s
garden. On the other side of the Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is
a little hotel at Vaucluse, the Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a
stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the source of the river Sorgue, the
placid <a name = "fontaine_vaucluse" id =
"fontaine_vaucluse"><b>Fontaine de Vaucluse</b></a> about 30 yards in
diameter— “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still,
that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and
water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to
contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into
the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock
crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal
Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description
of the site:— “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river;
on another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day
heats, and which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its
friendly shade; but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In
the distance a surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast.
Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds—these are my delights. My table is
also graced with the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my
greatest pleasures to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw
them myself. All about me is changed. I once used to dress myself
with care; now you would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house
resembles that of Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The
house of my servant adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and
when I have no more need of him he returns home.”</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon_petrarch" id =
"avignon_petrarch">
<span class = "headnote">Avignon: Petrarch.</span></a></p>
<p>On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of
Avignon Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a
romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful
vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France,
Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned
to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.</p>
<p>Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to
18 frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.</p>
<p>20½ m. from Avignon by rail is <a href = "#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a>
(p. 66), whence a branch line extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another
line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the Marseilles and Grenoble line, and
another 22½ m. S. to <a href = "#miramas"><b>Miramas</b></a>
(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See <a href = "#map66">map,
p. 66</a>.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">66</span>
<a name = "page66" id = "page66"> </a>
<!-- png 099 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Apt.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "avignon_to_manosque" id =
"avignon_to_manosque">
AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is <a name = "apt" id =
"apt"><b>Apt</b></a>, pop. 7000, on the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered
hollow surrounded by mountains and calcareous cliffs. <i>Hotels:</i> The
*Louvre; des Alpes. The principal industries are agriculture, pottery,
and the making of preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as
well as that on which the sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to
soak from 2 to 8 months in a strong solution of white sugar, in
uncovered “terrines,” like small basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such
as oranges, are pricked before being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard
Croix) is near the station, to the left on descending the hill. The
clay, gray and reddish, is in thick beds close to the establishment, and
resembles that of Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting
fire, and is therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen
pottery. M. Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea
services, of which the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the
establishment of L. A. Esbérard, who confines himself almost
exclusively to kitchen pottery.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on
entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower.
Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of the
mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which many
are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque
(<i>Hotel:</i> Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E.,
and Reillanne, on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on
the rail between Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, <a href =
"#map27">pages 26</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "cavaillon_to_miramas" id =
"cavaillon_to_miramas"><b>Cavaillon to Miramas</b></a>, 22½ m. S. (see
<a href = "#map66">map, p. 66</a>), across a fertile plain, with
vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. <a name =
"cavaillon" id = "cavaillon"><b>Cavaillon</b></a> (pop. 8000).
<i>Inns:</i> Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. Cavaillon is a
pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on the Durance at
the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an ancient triumphal
arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th cents., with a
cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the neighbourhood.
4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is <a name = "orgon" id =
"orgon"><b>Orgon</b></a> (pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> Paris; Poste), on the
Durance. 11 m. farther S. is <a name = "salon" id =
"salon"><b>Salon</b></a> (pop. 7100. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Croix de
Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, dealing largely in first-class
olive oil, has still remnants of its old ramparts: a church, St.
Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St. Laurent, of the 14th, and a
castle of the same date. In the town is a fountain to the memory of Adam
de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. (For <a href =
"#miramas">Miramas</a>, see p. 75.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Tarascon. Martha’s Tomb.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">474</span>
<span class = "miles to">63</span>
<a name = "tarascon" id = "tarascon"><b>TARASCON</b></a>, pop. 11,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> At the foot of the station stairs, the Luxembourg; in the
town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to Nîmes, 17 m. W., and
31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a large hospital
for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc Molière. Tarascon is
an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite Beaucaire, and connected with
it by a chain bridge
<span class = "pagenum">67</span>
<a name = "page67" id = "page67"> </a>
<!-- png 101 -->
1450 feet long. In the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is
an ancient crypt, just under the spire, with the <a name =
"marthas_tomb" id = "marthas_tomb">tomb of Martha</a>, the sister of
Lazarus, whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the
peaceful-looking marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of
the place says she had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of
the inhabitants, to kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a
bull’s, and having succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her,
after her death buried her in this place. A few steps from the
church, by the side of the river, rises the massive strong square
castle, begun in 1400 and finished by the Roi René, now used as a
prison. On the opposite side of the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are
the more picturesque ruins of the castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining
garden forms one of the many promenades of the people of Beaucaire.
Beaucaire is a poor town with poor houses. The formerly famous fair,
commencing on July 1, has become now of little importance. It is held in
the broad avenue between the castle and the Rhône.</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "caption">
THE MOUTHS OF THE RHONE.</p>
<!-- png 100 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 66</span>
<i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page
56</a>.</i><br>
[West] <i>For continuation see map, page 107.</i><br>
<a name = "map66" id = "map66" href = "images/map66.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map66thumb.png" width = "466" height = "232"
alt = "see caption"></a><br>
<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#map123">map, page 123</a>.</i>
</p>
</div>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Remy. Les Baux.</span></p>
<p>9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is <a name = "st_remy" id =
"st_remy"><b>St. Remy</b></a>, pop. 6800. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Cheval
Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for Les
Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and
Mont-Majour, 19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel
Cheval Blanc, by the high road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the
commercial stations of the Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it
fell into the possession of the Romans, who have left here two
remarkable monuments, of which the more perfect consists of an open
square tower standing on a massive pedestal, and surmounted by a
peristyle of ten columns surrounding two statues representing the
parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of the Julii, by whom it was
erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the statues look to the north.
The sculpture on the north side of the pedestal represents a cavalry
fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west, a combat between
infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, “Victory crowning
a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch, of which the most
perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the soffit.</p>
<p>6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is <a name = "les_baux" id =
"les_baux"><b>Les Baux</b></a>, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, pop. 100.
<i>Inn:</i> Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in 485,
occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature into
bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by ancient
art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art and
nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie cheek-by-jowl
with masses of the rough-hewn
<span class = "pagenum">68</span>
<a name = "page68" id = "page68"> </a>
<!-- png 102 -->
rock; fallen cavern vaults are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped
spandrel and clustered column shaft; the doors and windows of old
pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and wild fig tapestry; while winding
staircases start midway upon the cliff and lead to vacancy. High
overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang chambers—lady’s bower or
poet’s singing room—now inaccessible, the haunt of hawks and
swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb— “cette ville en monolithe,”
as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped out of one
mountain block—live a few poor people, foddering their wretched
goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their
mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux
road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles
(see <a href = "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arles.</span></p>
<!-- png 103 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 68</span>
[East]<br>
<a name = "map68" id = "map68" href = "images/map68.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map68thumb.png" width = "347" height = "559"
alt = "plan of Arles" title = "Arles"></a><br>
[West]<br>
<i>Scale of ¼ Mile</i>
</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">483</span>
<span class = "miles to">54</span>
<a name = "arles" id = "arles"><b>ARLES</b></a>, pop. 26,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Forum; near each other in the Place du Forum. Arles
is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a marshy place, as its
original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, “Ar lach,” damp place,
indicates. It is said to have been founded 900 years before Marseilles,
700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the birth of Christ. The ramparts
and walls rising from the public gardens and the Boulevard des Aliscamps
are chiefly the work of the Emperor Constantine, who came to Arles with
his family and mother, Saint Helena. He built by the side of the Rhône a
superb palace, called afterwards “de la Trouille,” because opposite a
ferry-boat, which was pulled or dragged from one side of the river to
the other. Of this palace little more remains than the attached tower La
Trouille, constructed of alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th
August 312 his wife Faustina presented him with a son,
Constantine II., who succeeded his father in May 357. He commenced
the Forum, but was shortly after killed in battle defending himself
against his brother Constance, who usurped the throne and finished the
Forum. All that remains of this formerly splendid edifice are the two
Corinthian columns, with part of the pediment encrusted into the wall of
the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the site of the Place du Forum, called
also the Place des Hommes, because labourers and men-servants used to be
hired in this “Place.”</p>
<p>In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on
the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The
spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these
baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an
ossuary.</p>
<p>Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne,
<span class = "pagenum">69</span>
<a name = "page69" id = "page69"> </a>
<!-- png 104 -->
now the Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions,
sarcophagi, urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones,
those of the Pagans having the letters D.M., <i>Diis manibus</i>. Also
some of the long lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius
Porthinus fac.,” which helped to bring water from the fountain at the
foot of the hill on which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is
a torse of Mithras of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in
1598 on the site of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the
body, and between the coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite
corner is an altar in Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,”
found under the church La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak
leaves and acorns, and 7 inches distant from each other two human ears.
Near it is a good head of Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About
the centre of the room is a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine
skin under his arm.</p>
<p>In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high,
hewn by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in
the Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges
remain.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arles: St. Trophime.</span></p>
<p>Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of <a name = "arles_st_trophime"
id = "arles_st_trophime"><b>St. Trophime</b></a>, consecrated on the
17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221,
consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are
statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum
is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists.
In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the
cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the
16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.</p>
<p>Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left,
we arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks,
and finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin,
originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian
columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the
proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators,
with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most
valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to
the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to
strangers.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arles: Amphitheatre.</span></p>
<p>A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing <a name =
"arles_amphitheatre" id = "arles_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a>
or Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius
Nero, <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft.
long and 132 wide, surrounded by a double wall 60 ft. high, each with
two stages of
<span class = "pagenum">70</span>
<a name = "page70" id = "page70"> </a>
<!-- png 105 -->
arches, and in each stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers
of stone seats, capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps
leading up to them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were
besides above 150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the
theatre, and 100 dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by
the Saracens in the 8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building,
when a multitude of spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the
galleries. A splendid view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of
the commencement of the delta of the Rhône, is had from the western
tower. The entrance into the amphitheatre is by the north gate. The
doorkeeper lives in a house a little to the left of the gate. This grand
ruin should, if possible, be visited by moonlight; yet during the day
the beautiful masonry is more easily examined. It is the great sight in
Arles, and it is better to omit all the others than to do this one
hurriedly.</p>
<p>The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of
Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the
Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east
by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with
extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It
is best visited by the steamboat sailing <a href =
"#arles_to_port_st_louis">between Arles and Port St. Louis</a> on the
mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and <a href = "#map66">map,
p. 66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arles: Elysei Campi. Trophimus.</span></p>
<p>S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on
the site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down
the Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left.
The first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the
monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side
by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without
lids. This, the <a name = "arles_elysei" id = "arles_elysei"><b>Elysei
Campi</b></a>, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested of all its
valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As
J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of
the cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be
especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury
their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with
their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône,
of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of
the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel
founded by <a name = "arles_trophimus" id =
"arles_trophimus">Trophimus</a> the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s
converts, who was sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end
to human sacrifices. Among the first things he is
<span class = "pagenum">71</span>
<a name = "page71" id = "page71"> </a>
<!-- png 106 -->
said to have done was to consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus
from a heathen into a Christian burial-place, and add to it a little
chapel. An old Arles writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus
dedicated this chapel to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36
years in this diocese he died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried
in the little chapel he himself had built. Among the successors of
Trophimus were Ambrose in 160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in
220, who died 10 years afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years
afterwards; Marcien in 252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St.
Cyprien in 253. Saint Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the
church of St. Honorat beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church
dates only from the 12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part,
excepting the foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is
semicircular, with 4 pilasters and a small window in the centre to give
light to the officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry
in two arcaded stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper
calls a small chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel
of Trophimus.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arles: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
<p>The <a name = "arles_gallery" id = "arles_gallery"><b>Picture
Gallery</b></a>, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure,
near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the
town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833.
On picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the
picture gallery is the school of design.</p>
<p>Branch line from <a name = "arles_to_fontvieille" id =
"arles_to_fontvieille">Arles to Fontvieille</a>, 7 m. E., passing
Mont-Majour 4 m. E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les
Baux by a good road. Junction at Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes,
36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m. S.W.; Cette is
17 m. farther. (See <a href = "#map66">map, p. 66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mont-Majour.</span></p>
<p>4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and
abbey of <a name = "montmajour" id =
"montmajour"><b>Mont-Majour</b></a>, all in a good state of
preservation, excepting the domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The
concierge lives in a house near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He
generally shows first the church, 11th cent., and the spacious crypt
below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are the cloisters, 11th cent., of
the same kind as those of St. Trophime, but more interesting and more
perfect, and containing the tombs of some of the counts of Anjou. Next
is the beautiful square dungeon tower, nearly as perfect as when erected
in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is ascended by 137 steps, and commands a
wide prospect. From this, a stair leads down the face of the hill
to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, principally hewn in the soft
limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base of the hill is St. Croix,
dedicated in 1019,
<span class = "pagenum">72</span>
<a name = "page72" id = "page72"> </a>
<!-- png 107 -->
consisting of four semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting
from a square tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille
(Hôtel du Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous
sandstone.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "arles_to_port_st_louis" id =
"arles_to_port_st_louis"><b>Arles to Port Saint Louis</b></a>, at the
mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S. by steamer on the Great Rhône.
Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway unfinished (see <a href =
"#map66">map, p. 66</a>). The steamboat passes by an important part
of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by
irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines.
Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass which
cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that not a
village is seen during the whole journey. (See also <a href =
"#page70">p. 70</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Port Saint Louis.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "port_st_louis" id = "port_st_louis"><b>Port Saint
Louis</b></a> (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc,
consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of the
canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. This
canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand
the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed to
every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,” whence the
plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, appears literally
like a map. The only villages seen in the vast expanse are Fos, on a
hill, and near it the Port Bouc.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient
place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from
Marseilles.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great
Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or
simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by
fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good
sculpture.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
For <a name = "arles_to_port_bouc" id = "arles_to_port_bouc" href =
"#port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Arles to Port Bouc</b></a>, 29 m. S., see
p. 76. The steamer sails from the S.W. corner of Arles (see <a href
= "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Gilles. Lunel.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is <a name = "st_gilles" id =
"st_gilles"><b>St. Gilles</b></a>, pop. 7000. Hôtel du Cheval-Blanc.
A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, near the
Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered a good
specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a bald wall
with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are three
semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on two
single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but the
pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque animals
in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches of the
portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, separated
from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a nave and two
aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. aisle a stair
of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with semicircular arches on
short massive piers. From the centre 7 more steps descend to the tomb of
St. Gilles. All the characteristics of this church are equally well
represented in St. Trophime of Arles.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is <a name = "lunel" id
= "lunel"><b>Lunel</b></a>, pop.
<span class = "pagenum">73</span>
<a name = "page73" id = "page73"> </a>
<!-- png 108 -->
7300. <i>Inns:</i> Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of
narrow streets, with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The
church is constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and
Perpignan. On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The
first-class vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to
18°, are all on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aigues-Mortes.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘8. m.’">8 m.</ins> S. by
rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of <a name = "aiguesmortes"
id = "aiguesmortes"><b>AIGUES-MORTES</b></a>, “stagnant waters,” pop.
4300, 4 m. from the Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and
connected with it by a navigable canal. <i>Inn:</i> Saint Louis. It is
of great historical interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old
embrasured wall in France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596
yds. long by 149 yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15
towers. On the western side rises the famous round tower of Constance,
96 ft. high and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed
circular chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their
Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties that
the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their
behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for them,
but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the highly
interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, whence
the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has not,
receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis—we think not.
Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint Louis,
who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it the most
suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for Palestine. On
25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church
Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen
Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to
Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place;
and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition,
the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m.
S. from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the
bathing station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. <i>Inns:</i> Pommier; Dubois (see
<a href = "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is <a href = "#vigan">Vigan</a>. (See page
105.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from
Nîmes, and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montpellier.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "montpellier" id = "montpellier"><b>MONTPELLIER</b></a>, on
the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above the sea and
7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. <i>Hotels:</i> H. Nevet, the
best and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the
same side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings
containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and the
Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. Adjoining
is the Lycée.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi,
the next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc,
frequented by commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la
Gare. In the fine broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the
<span class = "pagenum">74</span>
<a name = "page74" id = "page74"> </a>
<!-- png 109 -->
station to the Place de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second
class. Their omnibuses await passengers.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office
in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. From
the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de la
Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below the
prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See <a href = "#map66">map,
p. 66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montpellier: Botanic Gardens.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from the
station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the
citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a line
of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the <a name =
"montpellier_botanic" id = "montpellier_botanic"><b>Botanic
Gardens</b></a>, the earliest institution of this kind in France,
founded in the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the
direction of the famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9
acres, divided into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S.,
in a hollow, surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these
two divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once
famous <b>École de médecine</b>, said to have been founded by Arab
physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now
occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with
additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez,
1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts of
the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the college
and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also valuable
anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with 55,000 vols.
Adjoining is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th cents.,
but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White marble statue
of Mary and child by Canova.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place du
Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold weather
invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower terrace of
this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western end of the
Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian building, which
receives and distributes through the town the water brought from the
fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The aqueduct,
which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite hill,
consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long. The gate
at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the victories of
Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with statues of
Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked streets, are the
Mairie and the markets.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montpellier: Musée Fabre.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also on
the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the <a name =
"montpellier_fabre" id = "montpellier_fabre"><b>Musée Fabre</b></a>, the
Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the “Collection de la
Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays and
feast days, contains, among many works of inferior merit, some good
pictures by great artists, such as Berghem,
<span class = "pagenum">75</span>
<a name = "page75" id = "page75"> </a>
<!-- png 110 -->
Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van
Dyck, Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese,
Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens,
Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg.
The library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts,
which belonged to Prince Charles Edward.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called
St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of
preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the
principal industries.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line
extends through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and
yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m.
south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is
the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the
Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume
and linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station.
3 m. from Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the
mineral water establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and
sedative. Good for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north
from Montpellier is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu
(pop. 500) to the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and
having on the top a chapel visited by pilgrims.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from
Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See <a href = "#map27">map,
page 27</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Frontignan. Cette.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is <a name = "frontignan" id =
"frontignan"><b>Frontignan</b></a>, pop. 3000. Possessing 570 acres of
vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, luscious, and spirituous wines,
made principally from the clairette and picardan grapes. The
neighbouring marshes yield annually about 50,000 tons of salt.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
114 m. from Marseilles is <a name = "cette" id =
"cette"><b>Cette</b></a>, pop. 29,000. At this point the Chemins de Fer
de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du Midi, and
consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to Toulouse and
Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur des Chemins de
Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from Bordeaux, and
84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await passengers.
<i>Hotels:</i> Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette makes a
pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. Setius, 590
ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest part of the
Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is magnificent. In
front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with its villages. At
the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond Frontignan. The Port of
Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. long, which encloses a
harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two jetties; the western,
constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the eastern 548 yds. This
busy port, besides having an extensive carrying trade, has a large wine
manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of imitations of all the
well-known wines are made annually, by mixing different wines with each
other.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">76</span>
<a name = "page76" id = "page76"> </a>
<!-- png 111 -->
<p class = "sidetrip">
From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway bridge)
a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, on
Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade.
Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline
springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr.
A quart contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the
chloride of magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15
grains of the sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8
to 9 fr., and the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du
Midi enters Lake Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See
<a href = "#map27">map, page 27</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Miramas. Port Bouc.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">503</span>
<span class = "miles to">34</span>
<a name = "miramas" id = "miramas"><b>MIRAMAS</b></a>, pop. 900, south
from the station at the head of the Étang Chamas. At the station there
are a small inn and a large plantation of almond trees, which, when in
flower, exhale a delightful perfume. Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon
and L’Isle change carriages here (<a href =
"#avignon_to_vaucluse">p. 65</a>). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m.
south.</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "miramas_to_portbouc" id =
"miramas_to_portbouc">
MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.</a></h5>
<p><b>Miramas to Port Bouc</b> by rail through a flat plain (see <a href
= "#map66">map, p. 66</a>). The two most important towns passed on
the way are: <a name = "istres" id = "istres"><b>Istres</b></a>,
6¼ m. from Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000,
founded in the 8th cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of
its ancient ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt
and of the carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is <a name =
"fos" id = "fos"><b>Fos</b></a> (Fossae Marianae), pop. 1100, on a hill
crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent.
<span class = "sidetrip">
At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large tanks
for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by rail,
or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 miles S.
from Arles by the canal, is <a name = "port_bouc" id =
"port_bouc"><b>Port Bouc</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> near the
stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du Commerce;
near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang Caroute, near
the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is an important
fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. At the end of
the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of 10 m. At the
other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive square tower in
the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west from Port
Bouc by the coast road is the <a href = "#port_st_louis">Port of St.
Louis</a>, page 72. (For <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles_to_martigues">Port Bouc to Martigues and
Marseilles</a>, see p. 118.)</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "port_bouc_to_arles" id = "port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Port Bouc to
Arles</b></a>, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; fare,
3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are
very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between
Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about
½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side.
Passengers drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors
at the S.W. corner of Arles. (See <a href =
"#arles_to_port_st_louis">p. 72</a>, and <a href = "#map66">map
p. 66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Saint Chamas. Rognac.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">506½</span>
<span class = "miles to">30½</span>
<a name = "st_chamas" id = "st_chamas"><b>SAINT CHAMAS </b></a>(Sanctus
Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m.
<span class = "pagenum">77</span>
<a name = "page77" id = "page77"> </a>
<!-- png 112 -->
from the station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre,
and on both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with
excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder
manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville
is the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre,
with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about 22
ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian pilaster
surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. On the top at
each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are apparently ready to
spring eastward, and the other two westward. The bridge is in a state of
perfect repair, but the sculpture and inscription on the two arches over
the entrances are slightly effaced. The road to it is by the Hôtel de
Ville and the parish church with a rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the
portal. The bridge is to the E. of St. Chamas, and is well seen from the
railway, especially when crossing the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches,
which carry the rail over the little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m.
E. from St. Chamas is Berre station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly
south, on <a name = "lake_berre" id = "lake_berre"><b>Lake
Berre</b></a>, a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in
circumference.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
<span class = "miles from">519½</span>
<span class = "miles to">17½</span>
<a name = "rognac" id = "rognac"><b>ROGNAC</b></a>, pop. 900. Junction
with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under the <a name =
"roquefavour" id = "roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> aqueduct, 7½ m.
E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. of water per second from
the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring plain, commences opposite
<a name = "pertuis_2" id = "pertuis_2">Pertuis</a>, directly north from
Marseilles. It is 94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under
ground; it has a fall of 614 ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of
limestone hills, and crosses numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the
largest crosses the ravine of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This
aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½
ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft. wide at the water-way. It consists of
51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and cost £151,394, while the cost of the
whole canal from the Durance to the sea, near Cape Croisette,
a little to the east of Marseilles, has been £2,090,000.
A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons per
minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by
irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the
basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp">Palais de
Longchamp</a>. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps
pp. <a href = "#page66">66</a> and <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#page123">123</a>.)</p>
<p>To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station,
pass under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path
and partly by steps to the house of the concierge.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">78</span>
<a name = "page78" id = "page78"> </a>
<!-- png 113 -->
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aix. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only
18 m. N. by Gardanne, is <a name = "aix_en_provence" id =
"aix_en_provence"><b>Aix</b>-en-Provence</a>, pop. 29,000.
<i>Hotels:</i> Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east
end of the Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the
Hôtel du Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the
France; at the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville,
the Hôtel Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph
offices in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite
the Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was
founded 120 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> by the Consul Sextius
Calvinus around the thermal springs, which he himself had discovered.
The temperature of the water is 95° F., and the ingredients, iron and
iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides of soda and magnesia,
together with an organic bituminous matter strongly impregnated with
glairine. The establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours
Sextius. Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the
Cours René is a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king
of Naples, Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and
buried at Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue,
was a poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and
astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art
and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up to
the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de
Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the church
of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the host.
A little higher up are the <a name = "aix_hotel_ville" id =
"aix_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>, built in 1640; the
Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and
spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower,
bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de Ville
is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble statue of
Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also the public
library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer book of King
René, with illustrations said to have been done by himself. No. 569 is a
small 4to volume, with copies of letters written by Queen Mary Stuart.
The first 57 pages relate to her early history. At page 645 commences a
defence of her conduct, written by a warm partisan of the queen. The
street, ascending through the gateway of the clock tower, leads to the
university buildings, the palace of the archbishop, and the
<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "aix_cathedral" id =
"aix_cathedral">
Aix: Cathedral.</a></span>
Cathedral of <b>Saint Sauveur</b>, built in the 11th cent., partly on
the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 ft. high, was
built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The façade was
commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great entrance
door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain outer door. In
the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an octagonal chapel with
six antique marble and two granite Corinthian columns about 30 ft. high,
each shaft being of one stone. The ornamental sculpture on the panels
and in the spandrels is by Puget. On the same side are two triptychs,
one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by Saints,” and the
<span class = "pagenum">79</span>
<a name = "page79" id = "page79"> </a>
<!-- png 114 -->
other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, representing in the
centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in a clump of trees. On
one wing is King René on his knees, attended by the Magdalene, St.
Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is the king’s second
wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron saints. On the outside of
the shutters are the angel Gabriel and Mary.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the
left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511,
representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to
have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church
possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000
virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St.
Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our
Lord.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aix: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to the
church of St. Jean and the <a name = "aix_gallery" id =
"aix_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a> adjoining; free on Sundays and
Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. by the
Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John
of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the left of the altar is the
tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions,
and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of
paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or
numbers.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about
the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,” are flat
and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is
reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged
is—the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather
plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are
large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be
allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The
trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Rians. Meyrargues.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
(For the following see maps, <a href = "#map66">pages 66</a> and
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map123">123</a>.) Coach daily
from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m.
E. The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated
near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the
culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire
mountains. <a name = "rians" id = "rians"><b>Rians</b></a>, pop. 2900,
<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards.
Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. from
Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N.,
with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou,
in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the
fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is
<a name = "peyrolles" id = "peyrolles"><b>Peyrolles</b></a> (pop. 1200.
<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of
the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old
fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "meyrargues" id = "meyrargues"><b>Meyrargues</b></a> (pop.
2000. <i>Inn:</i> Reynaud) is situated with its castle
<span class = "pagenum">80</span>
<a name = "page80" id = "page80"> </a>
<!-- png 115 -->
in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from
Rians.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "diligences" id = "diligences">
<span class = "headnote">Diligences. Branch Lines.</span></a></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by
La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m.
W. Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For <a href =
"#salon">Salon</a>, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from Pelissanne is
Lambesc.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best
way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a
coach awaits passengers for <a name = "st_cannat" id = "st_cannat">St.
Cannat</a>, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther. In the
village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de la Vie, visited by
pilgrims. <a name = "lambesc" id = "lambesc"><b>Lambesc</b></a>,
14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably
situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive
oil and silk form the principal industries.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is <b>Gardanne</b>, pop.
3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules,
52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under
<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules</a>,
p. 142.)</p>
<p>From Rognac the <a name = "branch_lines" id =
"branch_lines">train</a> passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at
Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac.
3¼ m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is
Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see <a href =
"#avignon_to_manosque">p. 66</a>), 12¾ m. E.</p>
<p>Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and
7 miles north from Marseilles, is the station of <a name =
"lestaque" id = "lestaque"><b>L’Estaque</b></a>, a village on the
sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the
valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor,
architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at
Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis
XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the
youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor
stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy.</p>
<p><a name = "marseilles_note" id = "marseilles_note" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (see p. 111). Cabs and
the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the
large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station.
At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the
Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than
moderate.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">81</span>
<a name = "page81" id = "page81"> </a>
<!-- png 116 -->
<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name= "lyons_to_nimes" id = "lyons_to_nimes">
LYONS TO NÎMES.</a></h4>
<p class = "smaller">
172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins,
Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,
Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.</p>
<p class = "center smaller">
Maps, <a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>,
<a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles to">172</span>
<b>LYONS</b>: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop.
1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle
converted into a school. 4 m. farther is <a name = "givors_canal"
id = "givors_canal"><b>Givors-canal</b></a>, where the Nîmes line
separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of
Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by
the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The
train now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
famous for chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to
<a name = "ampuis" id = "ampuis"><b>Ampuis</b></a> (opposite Vaugris), pop.
2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and
possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres
belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France,
remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a
little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by
rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay,
pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i>
H. Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by
coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of
Virieux castle. 7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway
viaduct of 66 arches.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">39¼</span>
<span class = "miles to">132¾</span>
<a name = "peyraud" id = "peyraud"><b>PEYRAUD</b></a>, pop. 400.
Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to Grenoble, 60 m.
E. by Rives and Voreppe. <a name = "annonay" id =
"annonay"><b>Annonay</b></a>, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on
the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme
and the Cance. <i>Inn:</i> H. Midi, in the principal square,
occupying the centre of the low town.
<span class = "sidetrip">
The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The
Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers
Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d
June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one
of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed
the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a
beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends
9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. <i>Inn:</i> France. Bourg, as
the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on
the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
<span class = "pagenum">82</span>
<a name = "page82" id = "page82"> </a>
<!-- png 117 -->
covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the
castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a
vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered
with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide
travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau
called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends
to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière
2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon.</span></p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Tournon.</span></p>
<p>56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with
which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is <a name = "tournon"
id = "tournon"><b>Tournon</b></a>, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de
l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the
Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many
of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the
Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of
St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed
arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach
daily to <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a>, 5½ hrs., ascending
all the way (see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.;
to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W.
3 m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See <a href
= "#map46">map, p. 46</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">65½</span>
<span class = "miles to">106½</span>
<a name = "st_peray" id = "st_peray"><b>SAINT PERAY</b></a>, pop. 3000.
<i>Inn:</i> H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for
Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station,
situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards
here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural,
not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case
with the other champagnes.</p>
<p>69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by
the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave,
La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found.
2½ m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m.
Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (<a href =
"#map46">Map, p. 46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">77</span>
<span class = "miles to">95</span>
<a name = "la_voulte" id = "la_voulte"><b>LA VOULTE</b></a>, pop. 5000.
<i>Inn:</i> H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat
stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the
steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the
Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard
Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in 1582,
who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and
the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
<span class = "pagenum">83</span>
<a name = "page83" id = "page83"> </a>
<!-- png 118 -->
<span class = "sidetrip">
The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. <i>Inn:</i>
H. Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The
water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily
from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs.,
and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places
separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and
15 m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See <a href = "#map46">map,
p. 46</a>.) <a name = "st_sauveur" id = "st_sauveur"><b>St.
Sauveur</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily
situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high
rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled
terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut,
chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots
vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is
itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the
river, opposite the village Chalançon, <i>Inn:</i> H. Astier, is a
very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, <a name =
"le_cheilard" id = "le_cheilard"><b>Le Cheilard</b></a>, 2130 ft. above
the sea, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i> H. Courtial. This, the great
diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow
streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty
terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon.
Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far
as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges
northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St.
Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the
Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. from Le Puy, near the river
Lignon, pop. 900. (<a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "loire_source_road" id =
"loire_source_road">
ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "st_saveur_to_le_beage" id = "st_saveur_to_le_beage"><b>Saint
Sauveur to Le Beage</b></a> by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and
Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.
Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the
road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. <a name = "st_pierreville" id =
"st_pierreville"><b>St. Pierreville</b></a>, 1788 ft. above the sea,
pop. 2100. <i>Inns:</i> Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an
eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for
Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the
course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. before
reaching Marcols is the clean little village of <b>Olbon</b>, on both
sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and a
Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a
spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is <a name = "marcols" id =
"marcols"><b>Marcols</b></a>, 3380 ft. above the sea, a small
village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère.
<i>Inn:</i> H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the
stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As
conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for
those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to
spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a
vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day,
<span class = "pagenum">84</span>
<a name = "page84" id = "page84"> </a>
<!-- png 119 -->
with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is
28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols
6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep
terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation,
is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone
cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th
cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little
farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to
Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the
prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from Mezillac the
road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of <a name = "lachamp_raphael" id =
"lachamp_raphael"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél</b></a>, 4364 ft. above the sea.
Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally
abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had,
with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp
by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark
abyss. Any lad can show the way.</p>
<div class = "picture">
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "loire_source" id = "loire_source">
<span class = "headnote">Source of the Loire.</span></a></p>
<p class = "caption">
<span class = "smallcaps">MONT MEZENC<br>
and the SOURCE of the LOIRE</span></p>
<!-- png 120 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 84</span>
<a name = "map84" id = "map84" href = "images/map84.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map84thumb.png" width = "490" height = "253"
alt = "see caption"></a>
</p>
</div>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "gerbier_de_joncs" id = "gerbier_de_joncs">
THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the
road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison
Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison
Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,
which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen
after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking
from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The
<b>Gerbier-de-Joncs</b> (<i>Gerbiarum jugum</i>) is an isolated pointed
cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above
the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and
extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte
and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running
first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining
farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4
inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of
a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les
Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755
ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to
Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage" id =
"lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage</b></a>,
12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been
ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend
till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating
point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier
diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road crosses
the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St.
Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Beage. Mezenc.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "le_beage" id = "le_beage"><b>Le Beage</b></a>, pop. 850.
<i>Inns:</i> La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle
and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully
<span class = "pagenum">85</span>
<a name = "page85" id = "page85"> </a>
<!-- png 121 -->
situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in
a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the
mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually
here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the
weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making
on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short
cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads.
The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the
rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace,
from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn
1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater
is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of <a name = "mont_mezenc" id =
"mont_mezenc"><b>Mezenc</b></a> (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the
best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½ m.
N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the
direct path. <i>Inns:</i> Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The
hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea,
or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc.
The ascent takes about an hour.</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_beage_to_le_puy" id =
"le_beage_to_le_puy">
LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the
opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea,
and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le
Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Monastier.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip space">
<a name = "le_monastier" id = "le_monastier"><b>LE MONASTIER</b></a>,
pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. <i>Inns:</i>
Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m.
S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the
sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,
connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St.
Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680,
and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and
enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits
throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a
semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with
sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large
rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a
string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In
the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting
shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint
Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du
Monastier”— “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son
troupeau”— the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his
litany.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road
is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is
at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the
hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the
<span class = "pagenum">86</span>
<a name = "page86" id = "page86"> </a>
<!-- png 122 -->
village of Arsac, <i>Inn:</i> H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m.
more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the
fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire
at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from
Brives.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Puy. The Cathedral.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and
33 m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between
Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. <a href = "#page26">26</a> and <a href
= "#page46">46</a>), is</p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "le_puy" id = "le_puy">Le
Puy,</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers
Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town.
<a name = "le_puy_hotels" id = "le_puy_hotels"><i>Hotels:</i></a>
Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin
with the <a name = "le_puy_cathedral" id =
"le_puy_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>. From the high side of the Place
de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,
Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone
pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables
to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front
of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the
portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and
having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of
the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill
from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from
its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the
cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of
the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side
entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an
extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of
it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the
other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north
side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an
arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square,
with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on
square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest,
beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The
church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427,
when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and
restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each,
excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers.
Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high
altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,<a name = "tag_1" id
= "tag_1" href = "#note_1">*</a> brought from Cairo in 1251, and
presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed
in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the
pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were
<span class = "pagenum">87</span>
<a name = "page87" id = "page87"> </a>
<!-- png 123 -->
executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large
picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries
carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague,
which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the
Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its
protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the
north portal is the baptistery of <b>St. Jean</b>, built in the 4th
cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice.</p>
<p class = "footnote">
<a name = "note_1" id = "note_1" href = "#tag_1">* </a>
The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the
child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The
form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both
were swathed in two plies of linen.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Puy: Notre Dame de France.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille,
a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium.
On the top is the image of <a name = "notre_dame_de_france" id =
"notre_dame_de_france"><b>Notre Dame de France</b></a>, 433 ft. above
the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the
27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is
52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5
ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,
J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90
steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps
extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal
figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is
seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645
ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is
the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours Mons.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up
to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799,
d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux
is the sculptor of both of them.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aiguilhe.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the
<a name = "aiguilhe" id = "aiguilhe"><b>Aiguilhe</b></a>, 265 ft. high,
518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266
steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael,
commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The
present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the
beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally
the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural
paintings. The views are superb.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an
octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the
post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower
which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little
distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of
the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin,
who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of
Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is
the <a name = "le_puy_musee" id = "le_puy_musee"><b>Musée</b></a>, open
on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly
labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural
relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments
belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the
baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the
<span class = "pagenum">88</span>
<a name = "page88" id = "page88"> </a>
<!-- png 124 -->
right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman
antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle
Ages.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Upstairs is the <a name = "le_puy_gallery" id =
"le_puy_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. In the centre room are
portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy
of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of
Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died
at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his
native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly
belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer,
d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616;
Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris,
1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr,
1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection
of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among
other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois,
Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de
France, wife of Charles I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722;
Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl,
J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace,
blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and
villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which
articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books
are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche,
Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice;
the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day
she was married to Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Ours Mons.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is <a name = "ours_mons" id = "ours_mons"><b>Ours
Mons</b></a>, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The
prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable;
“exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great
variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures,
belonging to different epochs.”</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langogne" id =
"le_puy_to_langogne">
LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map, p. 46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Le Puy</b>, 2045 ft., to <b>Langogne</b>, 2940 ft. above the sea,
26 m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a
high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is
about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from
Pradelles. 8 m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft.
From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft.
above the sea, pop. 1450. <i>Inn:</i> Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and
cheese-making village, about 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct
crater of <a name = "le_bouchet" id = "le_bouchet"><b>Le
Bouchet</b></a>, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres
and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near <a href =
"#le_beage">Beage</a> (which see p. 85). After Montagnac the coach
arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the horses are
changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards
<a name = "pradelles" id = "pradelles"><b>Pradelles</b></a>, 3771 ft.,
pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. from Le Puy and 5 m.
from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the
omnibus of the Cheval Blanc
<span class = "pagenum">89</span>
<a name = "page89" id = "page89"> </a>
<!-- png 125 -->
awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St.
Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see <a href =
"#map46">map, p. 46</a>).</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "pradelles_to_mayres" id = "pradelles_to_mayres"><b>Pradelles
to Mayres</b></a>, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but
a high and exposed road, passing <a href = "#peyrebelle">Peyrebelle</a>
(p. 95), La Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft.
above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends
rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance
into Ardèche.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.
Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and
12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langeac" id =
"le_puy_to_langeac">
LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map,
p. 46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to <a name =
"langeac_2" id = "langeac_2"><b>Langeac</b></a> by St. Georges d’Aurac
is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the
tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right
angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from
Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Espaly. Borne. Darsac.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Le Puy to Langeac</b>, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line
traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs.
1 m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of <a name = "espaly"
id = "espaly"><b>Espaly</b></a>, and by the face of basaltic columns
rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in
whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite
side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la
Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues
d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of
volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260
by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
8¾ m. from Puy is <a name = "borne" id = "borne"><b>Borne</b></a>, 2535
ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms
a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. from this
station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train.
The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a
rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress
dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous)
leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive
view.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
13 m. W. from Le Puy is <a name = "darsac" id =
"darsac"><b>Darsac</b></a>, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small hamlet,
with a restaurant, the <b>station for Chaise-Dieu</b>, 13¾ m. N.,
fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond
Chaise-Dieu.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
La Chaise-Dieu.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little
village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the
sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and
Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay
chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. the
high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at <a name =
"chaise_dieu" id = "chaise_dieu"><b>La Chaise-Dieu</b></a>, 3576 ft.
above the sea, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord.
A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church
participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and
canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of
N. D.
<span class = "pagenum">90</span>
<a name = "page90" id = "page90"> </a>
<!-- png 126 -->
du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most
inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his
companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at
Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly
proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or
Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of
Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation
to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site
formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued
and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade
with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the
horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high,
attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac
to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The
gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under
the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the
cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides
remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and
traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain
slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads
itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the
aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The
church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two
columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular
projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little
depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is
separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved
cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras
tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the
mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands
folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table
of black marble.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is
the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with
artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait
of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure
expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young
and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects
and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated
mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold.
Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La
Chaise-Dieu.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "chaise_dieu_to_vichy" id =
"chaise_dieu_to_vichy">
La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and
11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is <a name =
"arlanc" id = "arlanc"><b>Arlanc</b></a>, pop. 4500, <i>Inn:</i>
H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,
<span class = "pagenum">91</span>
<a name = "page91" id = "page91"> </a>
<!-- png 127 -->
consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed
mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made
here.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of <a name = "ambert" id =
"ambert"><b>Ambert</b></a>, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by rail from Vichy;
whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez
mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15 m. from
Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a
hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent.
houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the
Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from Thiers, is
Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of
the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾ m. N.
from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#vichy">Vichy</a> see p. 358; <a class = "turin" href =
"turin.html#thiers">Thiers</a>, p. 367.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The next station west from Darsac by rail (see <a href = "#map46">map,
p. 46</a>) is <a name = "fix_st_geneys" id =
"fix_st_geneys"><b>Fix-St. Geneys</b></a>, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274
ft. above the sea, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> H. des Voyageurs, situated
on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with
firs. 2½ m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950
ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. farther is Rougeac, with a
castle 1923 ft. above the sea.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The most westerly station on the line is <a name = "st_georges_daurac"
id = "st_georges_daurac"><b>St. Georges d’Aurac</b></a>, 1872 ft. above
the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.
58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes
(see <a href = "#map27">map, p. 26</a>). Near the station is the
inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m.
E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette.
5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on
a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the
Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon,
bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station
of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from
St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is <a name = "langeac" id =
"langeac"><b>Langeac</b></a>, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and
127 m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. <i>Inns:</i>
H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on
the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast
plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the
town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (<a href
= "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
15 m. S. from Langeac is <a name = "monistrol" id =
"monistrol"><b>Monistrol</b>-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop.
1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the
river. Coach by a picturesque road to <b>Le Puy</b>, 17 m. N.E. by
St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a
deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of
Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.
10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old
church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of
Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and
Mont Bonzon. Coach from <a name = "monistrol_to_saugues" id =
"monistrol_to_saugues"><b>Monistrol to Saugues</b></a>, 6½ m. W.,
3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful
valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument
<span class = "pagenum">92</span>
<a name = "page92" id = "page92"> </a>
<!-- png 128 -->
called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square
vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high
and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the
mortuary chapel at Valence (see <a href = "#page44">p. 44</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Pouzin. Privas.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">81</span>
<span class = "miles to">91</span>
<a name = "le_pouzin" id = "le_pouzin"><b>LE POUZIN</b></a>, pop. 3000,
<i>Inn:</i> H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the
Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle.
Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. <a name = "privas" id =
"privas"><b>Privas</b></a>, pop. 8000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix d’Or; Louvre.
On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838
ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the
Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of
narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade
called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of
the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the
Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the
plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis
XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal
Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded
by the brave Montbrun.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux.
<i>Inn:</i> H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières
the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le
Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the
<a href = "#loire_source">Source of the Loire</a> and <a href =
"#mont_mezenc">Mont Mezenc</a> (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to
Aubenas, 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and <a href = "#map46">map
p. 46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Rochemaure.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">98</span>
<span class = "miles to">74</span>
<a name = "rochemaure" id = "rochemaure"><b>ROCHEMAURE</b></a>, pop.
1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern
part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the
steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle.
There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented
commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the
curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms
of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented
wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial
manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a
needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep,
like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will
be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of
the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These
ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive
edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by
the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition
by order of Louis XIII.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">93</span>
<a name = "page93" id = "page93"> </a>
<!-- png 129 -->
<p>A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more
than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top
of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic
columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Le Teil.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">95¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">76¼</span>
<a name = "le_teil" id = "le_teil"><b>LE TEIL</b></a>, pop. 3200, with
some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for <a href =
"#montelimart">Montelimart</a>, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the
Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line
between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch,
17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais,
a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The
Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps,
<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and <a
href = "#map56">56</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Aubenas. Vals.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vogue_to_mayres" id =
"vogue_to_mayres">
Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is <a name = "aubenas"
id = "aubenas"><b>Aubignas</b></a> (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an
important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000,
<i>Inn:</i> H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and
mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an
extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the
town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college,
the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre
of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux,
a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown.
(Maps, pages 56 and 46.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits
passengers. <a name = "vals" id = "vals"><b>VALS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on
the Volane, famous for its <b>Mineral Waters</b>. <i>Hotels:</i> Des
Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens.
In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse;
Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the
town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the
Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs.
Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane,
in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry
and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all
at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent
fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises,
under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little
beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and
the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the
river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so
pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the
Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to
the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove
paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be
drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia,
<span class = "pagenum">94</span>
<a name = "page94" id = "page94"> </a>
<!-- png 130 -->
lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda,
and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Antraigues.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is
<a name = "antraigues" id = "antraigues"><b>Antraigues</b></a>, pop.
2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow
three impetuous mountain torrents—the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From
the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the
neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the <a name = "coupe_daizac" id =
"coupe_daizac"><b>Coupe d’Aizac</b></a>, covered with a beautiful
reddish lava. <i>Inns:</i> Brousse; Glaise.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "aubenas_to_langogne" id =
"aubenas_to_langogne">
AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
(Maps, <a href = "#map56">pp. 56</a> and <a href = "#map46">46</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through
Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is <a name =
"neyrac_les_bains" id = "neyrac_les_bains"><b>Neyrac-les-Bains</b></a>,
the Nereisaqua of the Romans. <i>Inns:</i> H. des Bains;
H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals,
and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger,
containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81°
Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,
the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2
or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m.
W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric,
is <a name = "thueyts" id = "thueyts"><b>Thueyts</b></a>, pop. 2600,
<i>Inn:</i> H. Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of
Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche
has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of
basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2 m.
down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of
arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of
the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very
little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants,
a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of
214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the
extremity of this wall of rock, is the <b>Echelle du Roi</b>,
a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft
or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a
good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1
hour.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near
the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358
ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Mayres.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
5½ m. from Thueyts is <a name = "mayres" id =
"mayres"><b>Mayres</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inns:</i> France; Commerce.
1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.
above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge
between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For
Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From
Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of
Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170
ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is
La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and
<span class = "pagenum">95</span>
<a name = "page95" id = "page95"> </a>
<!-- png 131 -->
14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of <a name = "peyrebelle" id =
"peyrebelle"><b>Peyrebelle</b></a>, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25
years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that
came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron,
pop. 1400.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the
snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is <a href =
"#pradelles">Pradelles</a>, 3771 ft., 16 m. from Le Puy by coach
and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages <a href =
"#map27">26</a>, <a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href =
"#map46">46</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Prades. Jaujac.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "prades_etc" id = "prades_etc">
Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat,<br>
St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
For the main loopline, see <a href = "#map56">map p. 56</a>; for the
rest, <a href = "#map46">map p. 46</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus
of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take
passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on
an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are
coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with
chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of
Jaujac, is <a name = "prades" id = "prades"><b>Prades</b></a>, pop.
1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Near the railway terminus is the village of <b>Pont-de-la-Baume</b>,
pop. 900, <i>Inns:</i> H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea,
at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the
Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in
the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded
here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,
Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is <a name = "jaujac"
id = "jaujac"><b>Jaujac</b></a>, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop.
2600. <i>Inn:</i> Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which
nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is
lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge,
and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where
there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not
vertical. About ½ m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an
extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this
valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended
easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path
leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike
those of Vals.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Montpezat.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence,
is <a name = "montpezat" id = "montpezat"><b>Montpezat</b></a>. The road
from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the
foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour,
14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of
the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115
ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the
Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the
<span class = "pagenum">96</span>
<a name = "page96" id = "page96"> </a>
<!-- png 132 -->
suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best
specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from
the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is
about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<b>Montpezat</b>-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above
the sea, rising from the Ardèche. <i>Inns:</i> Europe; Poste. This is
the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in
the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new
road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of
the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but
the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the
village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.</p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "montpezat_to_le_puy" id =
"montpezat_to_le_puy">
MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.</a></h5>
<p class = "sidetrip">
To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,
16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier,
12 m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From
Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite
the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North
is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above
the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of
Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of
Usclades, 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road
ascends to <a href = "#le_beage">Le Beage</a>, 6¼ m. N. (see
p. 84).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sainte Eulalie.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by
Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. <a name = "ste_eulalie" id =
"ste_eulalie"><b>Sainte Eulalie</b></a>, pop. 650, <i>Inn:</i> Faure, in
a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from
the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in
the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source
of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch
bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the
side of the stream (see <a href = "#page84">p. 84</a>, and maps pp.
<a href = "#page46">46</a> and <a href = "#page85">85</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Ruoms. Largentière.</span></p>
<h5 class = "itinerary">
Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.</h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of
Alais, is <a name = "ruoms" id = "ruoms"><b>Ruoms</b></a>. Station for
Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W., and for
Vallon, 6¼ m. S. <a name = "largentiere" id =
"largentiere"><b>Largentière</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Hotels:</i> Europe;
France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop.
5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and
glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with
important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated
in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous
mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the
Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.
Joyeuse, pop. 2300. <i>Inns:</i> H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its
suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part
<span class = "pagenum">97</span>
<a name = "page97" id = "page97"> </a>
<!-- png 133 -->
of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de
Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an
Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a
considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pont d’Arc.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vallon_to_pont_darc" id =
"vallon_to_pont_darc">
VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map56">Map, p. 56</a>.)</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is <a name = "vallon" id =
"vallon"><b>Vallon</b></a>, pop. 2500. <i>Inns:</i> *H. du Louvre;
Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the <a name = "pont_darc" id
= "pont_darc"><b>Pont d’Arc</b></a> is 75 minutes distant by the stony
road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is
also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10
frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is
3 m. from the railway station of <a href = "#st_just">St. Just</a>,
on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). The
landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,
2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing
down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche,
composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through
which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.
high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.
There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is
unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding
scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and
mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft.
high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great
stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them
is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,
honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are
better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other
scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears
upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, <a href = "#page54">page
54</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">102½</span>
<span class = "miles to">69½</span>
<a name = "viviers" id = "viviers"><b>VIVIERS</b></a>, pop. 3300.
<i>Inn:</i> Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road
parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill
behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W.
side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and
preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to
Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé,
pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows
through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east
side of the Rhône.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">109½</span>
<span class = "miles to">62½</span>
<a name = "bourg_st_andeol" id = "bourg_st_andeol"><b>BOURG-ST.
ANDEOL</b></a>, pop. 4500. <i>Hotels:</i> Luxembourg; Europe; their
omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (<a href =
"#page50">page 50</a>), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le
Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a church founded in
the
<span class = "pagenum">98</span>
<a name = "page98" id = "page98"> </a>
<!-- png 134 -->
11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards
from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de
Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About
20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the
sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">115</span>
<span class = "miles to">57</span>
<a name = "st_just" id = "st_just"><b>ST. JUST</b></a> and St. Marcel
station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different
directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop.
600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses
the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop.
450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen
from St. Martin.</p>
<p>Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m.
up the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price
depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists
of a tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into
spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep,
slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and
certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should
undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels
are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pont-St. Esprit.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">119</span>
<span class = "miles to">53</span>
<a name = "pont_st_esprit" id = "pont_st_esprit"><b>PONT-ST.
ESPRIT</b></a>, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière,
on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière
<a href = "#page50">page 50</a>.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons
and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the
western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place,
with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge
are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in
the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620.
Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel
constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.
Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs.
At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
inmates. The drive is pleasant (see <a href = "#map56">map,
page 56</a>).</p>
<p>Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m.
N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)</p>
<span class = "pagenum">99</span>
<a name = "page99" id = "page99"> </a>
<!-- png 135 -->
<p>7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000.
H. du Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach
to Uzès, 17 m. W.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">132½</span>
<span class = "miles to">39½</span>
<a name = "laudun" id = "laudun"><b>LAUDUN</b></a>, pop. 2200, about 2½
m. west from the station, and 10 m. from Orange, is built on a hill
350 ft. high. The vineyards in the neighbourhood produce a good white
wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½ m. west, by Connaux, St.
Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and Mejannes; small and uninteresting
towns (see <a href = "#map27">map, p. 26</a>).</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Roquemaure. Pont-d’Avignon.</span></p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">137½</span>
<span class = "miles to">34½</span>
<a name = "roquemaure" id = "roquemaure"><b>ROQUEMAURE</b></a>, pop.
3100. <i>Inns:</i> H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at station.
Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the island of
Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is in the
neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public promenade with
large trees, the great embankment to protect the town from the invasions
of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of which the most
remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point of a great
rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the village.
Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the Rhône, has a
dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of Avignon,
died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good wine
is made.</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">144¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">27¼</span>
<a name = "pont_avignon" id = "pont_avignon"><b>PONT-D’AVIGNON</b></a>,
station on the west side of the Rhône for <a href =
"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await
passengers. The omnibus between Avignon and Villeneuve passes the
station every hour. Tram every ¼ between the station and Avignon.</p>
<p>7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône,
at a considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is
Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the
ruins of a castle. (<a href = "#map66">Map, page 66</a>.)</p>
<p>
<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
<span class = "miles from">159¾</span>
<span class = "miles to">12¼</span>
<a name = "remoulins" id = "remoulins"><b>REMOULINS</b></a>, pop. 1400,
with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to Uzès, 12½ m. N.W.
On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is
Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.
(For <a href = "#pont_du_gard">description</a> and <a href =
"#avignon_to_nimes">directions</a> see pp. 64 and 104, and <a href =
"#map66">map page 66</a>.)</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Uzès.</span></p>
<p><a name = "uzes" id = "uzes"><b>UZÈS</b></a>, pop. 5600, <i>Inn</i>
Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by picturesque calcareous rocks. From
the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and
having gone down the avenue ascend the double stair leading up to the
beautiful terrace, on which, to the left, stands the Cathedral, and to
the right, projecting from the
<span class = "pagenum">100</span>
<a name = "page100" id = "page100"> </a>
<!-- png 136 -->
balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which
Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in
the deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the
Roman aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a
square basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of
which five are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by
twin open arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled
roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of
the church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat
of the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the
most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with
turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge,
surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The
octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the
École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St.
Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret
of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir
(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the
Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and
Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le
Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs
d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour
de la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower,
11th cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and
in front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of
the “Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is
a large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross
of copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,
vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best
wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides
the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols,
17 m. E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m.
N. from the Pont d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Sernhac-Lédenon.</span></p>
<p>After Remoulins the train halts at the station <a name =
"sernhac_ledenon" id = "sernhac_ledenon"><b>Sernhac-Lédenon</b></a>.
<b>Lédenon</b>, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and
<b>Sernhac</b>, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from
Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer,
Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with a handsome modern church, and in the
cemetery the ruins of the chapel of St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from
railway.</p>
<span class = "pagenum">101</span>
<a name = "page101" id = "page101"> </a>
<!-- png 138 -->
<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nimes" id = "nimes">
<span class = "headnote">Nîmes.</span></a></p>
<!-- png 137 -->
<p class = "illustration">
<span class = "pagenum">opp. 101</span>
<a name = "map101" id = "map101" href = "images/map101.png"
target = "_blank">
<img src = "images/map101thumb.png" width = "469" height = "371"
alt = "plan of Nîmes" title = "NÎMES"></a></p>
<p>172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E.
from Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m.
N.W. from Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by
Clermont-Ferrand, is</p>
<h5 class = "sans">NÎMES,</h5>
<p>population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea.
A flight of steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the
station. At the foot of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty
comfortable room 2 frs., dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams
start from in front of the house. In the town are: On the Esplanade, the
H. Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a
garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9 to 12 frs. Fronting the
amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to 10 frs. Opposite the
Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the most conveniently
situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses await passengers at
the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. du Grand Cours,
between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph Office in the
Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des Calquières.
Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new church of
St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end of the B.
des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.</p>
<p><i>Sights.</i>—The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the
Roman Baths. <i>Cab Stands</i> are found at the station, at the
Amphitheatre, and at the Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per
hour.</p>
<p>A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the
Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble
colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the
Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the
pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with
its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and
the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nîmes: Amphitheatre.</span></p>
<p>The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman <a name = "nimes_amphitheatre"
id = "nimes_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a>, the most perfect
extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437
ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building
are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches
being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an
attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained
the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the
upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being
roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching
<span class = "pagenum">102</span>
<a name = "page102" id = "page102"> </a>
<!-- png 139 -->
from side to side. There were four entrances, one facing each of the
cardinal points of the compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats
in 4 zones, capable of accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators.
The lowest zone corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the
galleries. The present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c.,
opposite No. 8 Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is
under the fifth arch west. No description can express the sensation
experienced from contemplating this vast Roman structure from the
highest tier or from the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it
must be remembered that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent
step might have serious consequences. The date of the building is
uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured
to have been the founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress,
the Castrum Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the
8th cent., till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died
in 715.</p>
<p>On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine,
with, on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including
the Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum,
containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the
neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other
pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of
John the Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a
Girl and a Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of
his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in
his coffin, by Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress
experimenting on a slave with the poison they were preparing for
Britannicus,” by Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by
Gérard Dow, Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van
den Welde, and Wouvermans.</p>
<p>At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with
frescoes on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nîmes: La Maison Carrée. Cathedral.</span></p>
<p>Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them <a name =
"nimes_maison_carree" id = "nimes_maison_carree"><b>La Maison
Carrée</b></a>, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably
part of the Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending
east and west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed
to have been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a
platform, and is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30
Roman-Corinthian columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll
frieze, sculptured dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are
attached,
<span class = "pagenum">103</span>
<a name = "page103" id = "page103"> </a>
<!-- png 140 -->
excepting the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the
railing are mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.</p>
<p>Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral <a name =
"nimes_cathedral" id = "nimes_cathedral"><b>St. Castor</b></a>, built in
the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The most
venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of stone.
A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends
under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by brackets with
acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the
interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior
frieze.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Nîmes: Roman Baths. Tourmagne. Fort.</span></p>
<p>N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases
and statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane
trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the
temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built <span class =
"smallroman">B.C.</span> 24, of huge carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone,
and reduced to its present state in 1577. The little of the ornamental
work that remains is very much mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected
from the troublesome winds of Nîmes, are the <a name =
"nimes_roman_baths" id = "nimes_roman_baths"><b>Roman Baths</b></a>,
about 12 ft. below the level of the gardens, the vaulting being
supported on small columns, over which rise open stone balustrades.
Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies them, as placid but
somewhat larger than the Fontaine of <a href = "#vaucluse">Vaucluse</a>
(p. 65).</p>
<p>From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier
to an octagonal structure called the <a name = "nimes_tourmagne" id =
"nimes_tourmagne"><b>Tourmagne</b></a>, 90 ft. high, erected before the
Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was originally
filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in search of
treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in 1843. The view
from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.</p>
<p>Eastward from the Tourmagne is the <a name = "nimes_fort" id =
"nimes_fort"><b>Fort</b></a>, built by Louis XIV., now the town prison.
On the western side of the fort are the remains of the reservoir,
<i>castellum divisorium</i>, which received the water brought by the
canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings
water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the
fort.</p>
<p>In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft.
high, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte
d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of
the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the
Rue Carrètérie. (See <a href = "#map101">plan</a>.)</p>
<p>The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia
<span class = "pagenum">104</span>
<a name = "page104" id = "page104"> </a>
<!-- png 141 -->
Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the
reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of
Strabo the “<b>Jus Latii</b>,” and therefore was independent of the
Roman governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was
exported to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal
emporium in the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in
Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de
Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who
introduced tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis
Philippe, were born at Nîmes.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Pont-du-Gard.</span></p>
<p>13½ miles from Nîmes is the <a name = "pont_du_gard" id =
"pont_du_gard"><b>Pont-du-Gard</b></a>, built by the Romans in the reign
of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the
neighbourhood of <a href = "#uzes">Uzès</a> (page 99), brought the
waters of the Eure and Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which
only vestiges now remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks
of the river Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total
height above the bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are
formed of hewn stones, placed together without the aid of any cement;
but the mason work underneath the channel of the third or top story is
of rough stones cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The
first or lowest row consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each,
except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven
arches of the same dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches
of 15 ft. span. A stair from the right bank of the river leads up
to the watercourse above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking
boldness of its design this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and
superiority over all the other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider,
and the piers in proportion lighter, and had the same principle been
extended so as to have formed it of one single row from top to bottom,
it would have equalled in the skill and disposition of its materials the
more judicious and more elegant structures of modern times (see <a href
= "#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a>, p. 77). Take ticket to
Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,
take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another
ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins
station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under <a href =
"#avignon_to_nimes">Avignon</a>, p. 64).</p>
<p>79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is <a class = "riviera" href =
"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (p. 111), passing
<a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a>, 17 m. (p. 66), and <a href
= "#arles">Arles</a>, 25 m. (p. 68).</p>
<!-- png 142 -->
<span class = "pagenum">105</span>
<a name = "page105" id = "page105"> </a>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Valleraugue.</span></p>
<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nimes_to_millau" id = "nimes_to_millau">
NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.</a></h5>
<p class = "center smaller">
See <a href = "#map27">Map, p. 26</a>.</p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is <a name = "vigan" id =
"vigan"><b>Vigan</b></a>, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs., to Millau,
on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this
line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque.
27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800,
junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E. to
Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is
St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this
the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan,
on the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche,
omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m.
farther is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron
mines. 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line
crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre
follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. <i>Inns:</i>
Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the
Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à
Clastercamp à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is
860 ft. above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with
terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to
nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved
streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the
post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the
neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,
on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the
Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are
the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Valleraugue.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
Coach daily to <a name = "valleraugue" id =
"valleraugue"><b>Valleraugue</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> Aresque, 14 m.
N., in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded
valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron
mountains towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a
little higher, towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent
is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the
culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The
source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of
the Tarn to the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent
fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.</p>
<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
Larzac.</span></p>
<p class = "sidetrip">
<a name = "le_vigan_to_millau" id = "le_vigan_to_millau"><b>Le Vigan to
Millau</b></a>, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the
coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines.
From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m., and Arre,
6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves by a
tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the
village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> the
Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of
7 m. the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, <i>Inn:</i>
H. du Nord, producing excellent
<span class = "pagenum">106</span>
<a name = "page106" id = "page106"> </a>
<!-- png 143 -->
pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern
side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and
mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other
side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is
St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, <i>Inn:</i> Commerce, 23 m. from
Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the
Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a poor
village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau. Shortly afterwards the
diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of <a name = "larzac" id =
"larzac"><b>Larzac</b></a>, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the
village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is
Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez.</p>
<p class = "line"> </p>
</div> <!-- end div itinerary -->
<h3><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">THE RIVIERA.</a></h3>
</body>
</html>
|
