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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16864-8.txt b/16864-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a57b0bc --- /dev/null +++ b/16864-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6466 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in +the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory + Volume II. (of 2) + +Author: John M'lean + +Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + + + + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +-----------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's note: Special characters | + | are encoded thusly: [=a], [=e], and | + | [=o] represent "a", "e", and "o" with | + | superior macron. | + +-----------------------------------------+ + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + +BY JOHN M'LEAN. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOL. II. + + +LONDON: + +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, + +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. + +1849. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS + +OF + +THE SECOND VOLUME. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Journey to Norway House 9 + + +CHAPTER II. + +Arrival at York Factory--Its +Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of +the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16 + + +CHAPTER III. + +Exploring Expedition through the Interior of +Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the +Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32 + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at +Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's +River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous +Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and +miraculous Escape 60 + + +CHAPTER V. + +Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a +Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward +Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable +Condition 81 + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the +Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of +the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return +by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava +River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the +Post 88 + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain +permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable +Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102 + + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and +Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118 + + +CHAPTER X. + +The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador +to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of +Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The +Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or +Canoe--Ouimiàk, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131 + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European +Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155 + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at +the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The +Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The +Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New +York 167 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at +Albany--Journey to Montreal 187 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch +from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage +La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort +Simpson--Productions of the Post 193 + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of +the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of +Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The +North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the +Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted +207 + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the +McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La +Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My +Reply to the Governor 228 + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the +Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's +River District--Peculiarities--Distress through +Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity +of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241 + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard, +but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the +Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255 + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's +Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of +Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the +Charter--Objections answered 260 + + +CHAPTER XX. + +Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr. +Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the +Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to +England--His sudden Death 278 + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + +Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River +through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the +North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its +Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English +Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for +Produce--Communication by Lakes 289 + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311 + + * * * * * + +VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in +the Hudson's Bay Territory 323 + + * * * * * + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE. + + +I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at +Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the +district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate +neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing +aspect of spring. + +Mr. F---- was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west +bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey +overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on +the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in +the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented +a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the +horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow--the +intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure +of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake +contributing to the variety of the landscape. + +Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in +consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever +they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, +began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to +allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared. + +On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which, +to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in +which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights +on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to +the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring +high grounds. + +On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge, +Mr. B---- having set off a few days before for the dépôt at Fort +Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who +entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day +we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against +this fare having completely vanished. + +Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River +and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the +Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are +there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find +subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords. +They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed +towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of +puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men +understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground, +which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; +and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community +and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any +one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during +their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself +by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by _pure_ +hands. + +We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles +found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we +advanced. The track left by Mr. B----'s party was of great service to +us. + +We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small +camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures +passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our +provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment +afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a +snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out +so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had +put the blood in circulation by walking. + +We overtook Mr. B---- on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and +worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow +indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted +the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded +horses to make a track. + +The country through which we have travelled for the last few days +is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the +traveller. + +We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left +bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to +the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of +the winter--an extraordinary circumstance, as there generally falls so +little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly +all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect +of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes, +&c.; they subsist on salmon and roots. + +Messrs. F---- and D---- arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of +April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring +servants. Mr. B---- accompanied us, having obtained permission to +cross the Rocky Mountains. + +We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly +reception from a warmhearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding +to the dépôt in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department +generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these +accounts--an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we +re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D---- and B---- behind; the former being +remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, having changed his mind, +in an evil hour for himself, returned to his old quarters; where he +was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian who had lost his father, +and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for +the absence of his children. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + ARRIVAL AT YORK FACTORY--ITS + SITUATION--CLIMATE--NATIVES--REIN-DEER--VOYAGE TO + UNGAVA--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA--SITUATION + AND ASPECT. + + +I arrived at York Factory, the dépôt of the Northern department, early +in July. This establishment presents a more respectable appearance +than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, and reflects no +small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly +executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected +since the coalition. When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the +buildings were of the most wretched description--the apartments +had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for +gentlemen. + +The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were +to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the +object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a +great expense; and the present commodious buildings were commenced, +but not finished by the projector. Other improvements have been made +since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that +could be expected in so unfavourable a situation. + +The dépôt is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted +by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks. Here there is always a +sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand +of the trade for two years--a wise precaution, as in the event of +any accident happening to prevent the vessel from reaching her +destination, the trade would not be interrupted. The very emergency +thus provided for occurred last autumn; the ship, after dropping +anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather +to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining +other serious damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward event, +the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the +interior with their outfits complete. + +The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered +unhealthy. In summer the extremes of heat and cold are experienced in +the course of a few hours; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen, +and before noon, duffle. Were the heat to continue for a sufficient +length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could +not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic +exhalations from the surrounding swamps. The ground, however, seldom +thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never +affected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy. + +One of Mr. McT----'s most beneficial improvements was to clear the +swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were +thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a great measure relieved +from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the +mosquitoes. These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared +ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for +his temerity. Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered +with them; defence is out of the question; the death of one is avenged +by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the unequal +contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his +quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door. + +There seems to be no foundation for the opinion generally entertained +that the natives do not suffer from the stings of these insects. The +incrustation of filth with which their bodies are covered undoubtedly +affords some protection, the skin not being so easily pierced; but no +incrustation, however thick, can be a defence against the attacks of +myriads; and in fact, the natives complain as loudly of the mosquitoes +as the whites. + +The Indians of this quarter are denominated Swampies, a tribe of the +Cree nation, whose language they speak with but little variation, +and in their manners and customs there is a great similarity. But the +Swampies are a degenerate race, reduced by famine and disease to a +few families; and these have been still farther reduced by an +epidemic which raged among them this summer. They were attacked by +it immediately on their return from the interior with the produce +of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes of being benefited +by medical advice and attendance. Their hopes, however, were not +realized; they were left entirely in charge of a young man without +experience and without humanity; and the disease was unchecked. Every +day the death of some poor wretch was made known to us by the firing +of guns, by which the survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened +away from the souls of their departed friends. + +Not many years ago this part of the country was periodically visited +by immense herds of rein-deer; at present there is scarcely one to be +found. Whether their disappearance is owing to their having changed +the course of their migrations, or to their destruction by the +natives, who waylaid them on their passage, and killed them by +hundreds, is a question not easily determined. It may be they have +only forsaken this part of the country for a time, and may yet return +in as great numbers as ever: be that as it may, the present want to +which the Indians are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of +those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded them food and clothing. +Their subsistence is now very precarious; derived principally from +snaring rabbits and fishing; and rabbits also fail periodically. + +Their fare during summer, however, soon obliterates the remembrance +of the privations of winter: fish is then found in every lake, and +wild-fowl during the moulting season become an easy prey; while young +ducks and geese are approached in canoes, and are destroyed with +arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired the use of their +wings. The white man similarly situated would undoubtedly think of +the long winter he had passed in want, and would provide for the next +while he could;--so much foresight, however, does not belong to the +Indian character. + +Fishing and hunting for the establishment affords employment to a few +Indians during summer, and is an object of competition among them, +on account of the incomparable gratification it affords--grog +drinking--to which no earthly bliss can be compared in the Indian's +estimation. To find the Company serving out rum to the natives as +payment for their services in this remote quarter, created the utmost +surprise in my mind: no excuse can be advanced which can justify the +unhallowed practice, when the management of the native population is +left entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued? Strange to say, +while Indians were to be seen rolling drunk about the establishment, +an order of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of ardent spirits +in any quantity exceeding two gallons to the Company's officers of +whatever rank, with the view of preventing the demoralization of the +natives! + +Most of the natives have a smattering of English, and are said to be +a quiet, harmless race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote +situation, and impoverished country protect them from the hostile +inroads of neighbouring tribes; hence the tame and pacific demeanour +by which they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often retires to +rest without a morsel to eat for himself or family, and that for days +together; yet he is under no apprehension from his enemies, and enjoys +his night's rest undisturbed; whereas, the warrior of the plain, while +he revels in abundance, seldom retires to rest without apprehension; +the hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his midnight slumber, +either to be butchered himself, or to hear the dying groans of his +family while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of man with good +and evil in every condition, whether civilized or savage. + +Every preparation for our departure being now completed, I took leave +of Fort York, its fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret. +We embarked on the 22d of August, in a brig that had fortunately +escaped the mishaps of the other vessels last autumn; and after being +delayed in port by adverse winds till the 26th, we finally stood out +to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert just come in. The fields of +ice, that had been observed a few days previously, having now entirely +disappeared, the captain concluded that the passage was clear for him, +and accordingly steered for the south. He had not proceeded far in +this direction, however, when we fell in with such quantities of ice +as to interrupt our passage; but we still continued to force our +way through. Convinced at length of the futility of the attempt, +we altered our course to a directly opposite point, standing to the +north, until we came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away for +the strait, making Mansfield Island on the 7th of September. We +encountered much stream ice on our passage, from which no material +injury was sustained; although the continual knocking of our rather +frail vessel against the ice created a good deal of alarm, from the +effect the collision produced, shaking her violently from stem to +stern. + +We were thus passing rapidly through the straits without experiencing +any accident worthy of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one +evening, how soon he expected to make the Island of Akpatok. He +replied, "To-morrow morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest +about ten, P.M., and I had not yet fallen asleep, when I heard +an unusual bustle on deck, and one of the men rushing down to the +captain's room to call him up. I instantly dressed and went on +deck, where I soon learned the cause;--a dark object, scarcely +distinguishable through the fog and gloom of night, was pointed out +to me on our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which we had been +rushing, propelled by wind and current, at the rate of thirteen knots +an hour, when it was observed. A few moments more, and we had been +launched into eternity. Had the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed +for a minute, or had the slightest accident occurred to prevent the +vessel from wearing at the very instant, our doom was certain. + +The western extremity of the Island of Akpatok, terminating in a +high promontory seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's edge, +formed the danger we had so providentially escaped. Next day we saw +the dismal spot in all its horrors. The island was still partially +covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation were discernible; but +a fresh breeze springing up we soon lost sight of this desolate spot, +and made the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about an hour after +sunset. The captain was a perfect stranger on the coast, and had but a +very imperfect chart to guide him; he nevertheless stood boldly in for +the land, and fortunately discovered the mouth of the river, which we +entered as darkness closed in upon us. + +By this time the breeze, that had carried us on so rapidly, increased +to a gale, so that if we had not entered the river so opportunely, +the consequences might have been serious. We were utterly unacquainted +with the coast, which presented a thousand dangers in the shape of +rocks and breakers, that were observable in every direction, as far as +the eye could reach to seaward; we therefore congratulated ourselves +on our fancied security--for it was only fancied, as will presently +appear. We kept firing as we approached the land, with the view of +apprizing the people of the post, who were directed to await us at the +mouth of the river. No sound was heard in reply until we had advanced +a few miles up the river, when we were gratified with hearing the +report of muskets, and presently several torches were visible blazing +a little ahead. + +The night was uncommonly dark, the banks of the river being scarcely +perceptible; and although it appeared to me we were much nearer then +than prudence would warrant, we still drew nearer, when our progress +was suddenly arrested. The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock, +and heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown on her beam-ends. +Swinging round, however, with the force of the current, she soon got +off again; and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped anchor. +Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came alongside in their canoes, who +gave us to understand by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the +post. + +Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, our Esquimaux made +signs to weigh anchor, which being done, one of them took his station +by the side of the helmsman, and never moved a moment from the spot, +pointing out the deep channel, with which he appeared well acquainted; +although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted in his countenance, lest +any accident should happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, when +he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep groan; he managed so well, +however, that he brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall. +From 10 A.M. until late in the evening we had only advanced +twenty-five miles, although we pressed against the current with +top-gallant sails set and a strong wind in our favour. + +Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey and myself determined +on rowing up to the post, where we arrived about four, P.M. I need +scarcely say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people so +seldom visited by strangers, in a situation which had no regular +communication as yet with any other part of the world. + +I was much gratified by the appearance of every thing about the +establishment. The buildings had just been finished with materials +sent out from England, through the considerate and kindly feeling of +the Committee, whose compassion had been excited by the accounts they +had heard of the miserable hovels in which the people were lodged when +the place was first settled. After passing an hour or two examining +the fort, (as it is called _par excellence_,) we returned to the +ship, and weighing anchor at an early hour the next morning, (11th +September,) we were soon brought up to the establishment, and landed +without loss of time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us no +small consolation, however, to reflect that we had no further cause to +apprehend danger from icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us +greater comfort as to living and accommodation than we had been led to +expect. + +The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped down with the stream on +the 15th, leaving us to reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary +prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, while the operation +of weighing was being executed, echoing from the surrounding hills, +suggested the question, "When shall that sound be heard again?" From +the melancholy reverie which this idea suggested I was roused by the +voice of my fellow exile, "the companion of my joys and sorrows," in +whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell. + +This post is situated in lat. 59° 28', standing on the east bank of +South River, about thirty miles distant from the sea, surrounded by +a country that presents as complete a picture of desolation as can be +imagined; moss-covered rocks without vegetation and without verdure, +constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the eye in every +direction. A few stunted pines growing in the villages form the +only exception; and at this season of the year, when they shed their +leaves, contribute but little to the improvement of the scene. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR + OF LABRADOR--DIFFICULTIES--DEER-HUNT--INDIAN + GLUTTONY--DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY--PROVISIONS RUN + SHORT--INFLUENZA. + + +The Company having learned, through a pamphlet published by the +Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent +furs, were induced by the laudable desire of "ameliorating the +condition of the natives," to settle it; and a party was accordingly +sent overland from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of +1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left +both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company. + +Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a +settlement in this quarter, the profits derived from it added but +little to the dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance +like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be +found; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price, +they were far from plentiful; while the enormous expense of supplying +the district by sea, and supporting it on imported provisions, +rendered the "Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant +discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the +measure from the first. + +Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware +of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every +effort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the +returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the +interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at +the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast +of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from +thence by inland route; "there being no question of the practicability +of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers. + +Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and +represented to me the utter impossibility of carrying my instructions +into effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches +from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the +district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage, +placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a +very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst +by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This +vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance on the 22d of September, +and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two +years' consumption. + +Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the +difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the +natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining +there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an +early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo +on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey +to the reader. + +"_Tuesday, the 2d of January_, 1838.--I left Fort Chimo at eleven +A.M., accompanied by the following men, _viz._:-- + +"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian guides, who are to +accompany me throughout the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson +go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with +provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves. + +"_Wednesday, the 3d._--Left our encampment before dawn of day. +Excessively cold--some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our +principal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us, +set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having +proceeded about nine miles. + +"_Thursday, the 4th._--Started at seven A.M. Reached High Fall Creek +at nine A.M. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone, +finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at +half-past nine; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our +young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. We waited +till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely +exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles. + +"_Friday, the 5th._--Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five +A.M.; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 6th._--As the ice was covered with water close to our +encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off +at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence +of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It +continuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I +gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile. + +"_Sunday, the 7th._--Got up about three A.M., literally buried in +snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them +till eight o'clock, when we started with only half loads, with which +we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the +remainder; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the +tempest which had incommoded us so much last night had cleared the +ice of snow; we therefore returned for the property we had left; then +proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached +the lake; when my guides, discovering a herd of deer on an adjacent +hill, immediately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my +two _brules_. I saw at once my day's journey was at an end, and +accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us +in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed. +Proceeded eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 8th._--Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was +much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which +our route lay. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 9th._--Blowing a hurricane; the cold being also +intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the +risk of being frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters, +such as they were, until the weather should moderate. + +"_Wednesday, the 10th._--My guides appeared very unwilling to quit +their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They might +have been really ill; but the beastly manner in which they had been +gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the +cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore +sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their +choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled +through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen +miles. + +"_Thursday, the 11th._--Started at five, A.M. Soon fell on a large +lake, on which we travelled till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus +far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width. +As Mr. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these +inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to +the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best +quality; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of +the year. Proceeded fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 12th._--Being immoderately cold, and the wind blowing +direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake. + +"_Saturday, the 13th._--Weather fine. Left Erlandson's Lake about one, +A.M.; it still stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach, +and cannot be less than forty miles in length; its medium breadth, +however, does not exceed two miles and a half. The circumjacent +country is remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the highest +hills, and is reported by the natives to abound in martens. A few +industrious Indians would not fail to turn such advantages to good +account; but they can avail the Company very little, while the natives +alone are in possession of them. Went on twenty-four miles. + +"_Sunday, the 14th._--Set off at five, A.M. Passed over several small +lakes; the country well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon, +the banks covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced +sixteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 15th._--Took our departure at seven, A.M. Travelled +without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 16th._--Decamped at five, A.M.; the snow very deep in +the woods. Fell on Whale River at ten, A.M. The face of the country +presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river +it is generally well wooded, but afterwards becomes extremely +barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks. +Proceeded sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 17th._--Started at five, A.M. Our route in the +morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out +again on Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. The +appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday. +Proceeded eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 18th._--P. Neven being unable to travel from +indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue, +deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime +I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far +reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I +accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back. + +"_Friday, the 19th._--Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now +convalescent) and Mordoch Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I +and my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained a sled of dogs, +intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale +River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at +four, P.M. Fourteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 20th._--The moon affording no longer light to find +our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven +A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small +growth; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on +which we travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 21st._--Set off at seven A.M. About eleven, we fell on +the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully +examined; their experience not only enabling them to determine the +precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely +to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very +much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present +modicum of food, I determined on availing myself of an opportunity +which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians +accordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure +to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the +heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the +time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after +them a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the herd, which +immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our +guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain by +ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed +of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals +fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have +believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space +of time the kettle was disposed of;--and this, too, after their usual +daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the +other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles. + +"_Monday, the 22nd._--On examining the remains of the deer this +morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good +intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves so +sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for +their canine brethren. We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very +heavy in the woods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we +made better speed. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 23rd._--Travelled through woods the greater part of the +day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 24th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Our route lay through +swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens +appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have +discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our +route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers +frequent, are to be met with in every direction; but the country +produces no food for them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable +lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On +asking them if this were the lake where we intended to build, they +pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in +that direction!--so far had I been led from the route I intended to +have followed, notwithstanding the perfect understanding I had with +my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment. +Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles. + +"_Thursday, the 25th._--Immediately on leaving our encampment, we +fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be +George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed +our course over bare hills. Encamped at three, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Friday, the 26th._--Having passed the night in a clump of small +pines, which sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we +were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round +us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were +completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind +blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing +a hummock of wood close to us, we shaped our course for it, where we +were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees +to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing +with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty in +clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a +miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles. + +"_Saturday, the 27th._--Arose from our comfortless _couché_ at +half-past four. The snow having drifted over us, and being melted +by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our +blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying +them occupied us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very deep. +Proceeded nine miles. + +"_Sunday, the 28th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Snow still increasing +in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we +came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a +short distance; then followed the course of a small stream running in +an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our route lay over marshes +and small lakes; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with +larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 29th._--Started at seven. Appearance of the country much +the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 30th._--Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking +heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength, +which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has +had to perform; always beating the track a-head, without being once +relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 31st._--Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a +few small birch trees. Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 1st of February._--Started at the usual hour. We have +been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past. +The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer, +are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently +pursuing a circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage, +subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions,--a contingency +which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can +afford no more food to the dogs; their load is now transferred to the +men's sleds. Fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 2d._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our route over +extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to +be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least +elevation commands a most extensive view; but the eye turns away in +disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present. +I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this +evening. Eighteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 3d._--Set off at seven, A.M. Reached Michigama Lake at +one, P.M.; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped +on an island. Proceeded twenty miles. + +"_Sunday, the 4th._--Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted +for our scanty meal at ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our +march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island near the mainland on +the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here +repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay, +by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that +nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable +starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by +the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own +provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I +had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in +accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country. + +"_Monday, the 5th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Reached the mainland at +half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north-east, +which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the +lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The +Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, but miserably small pine, +thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen +miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 6th._--Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his +way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding; +when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace, +which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate. +Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 7th._--Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the +site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently +occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from +Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route, +required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to +Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree, +that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped +near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by +inaccessible precipices on both sides. The view above the fall is +interrupted by stupendous rocks; the natives say that the appearance +of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to +Michigama Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind +of craft. Eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 8th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Fine travelling on +the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five +minutes past five. Twenty miles. + +"_Friday, the 9th._--Decamped at seven. Travelling good; the banks +of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We +observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles. + +"_Saturday, the 10th._--Started at eight, A.M. About noon we arrived +at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west. +Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward. +The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives +to be impracticable, and similar to the upper part. Our snow-shoes +being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose +of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 11th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our course +through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it +struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing +its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending +and descending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men +complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 12th._--The weather being so much overcast that we +could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, A.M. +Encamped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 13th._--Set off at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous +snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day; +we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant +recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide +told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in the +evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found +two of Mr. McGillivray's people, who were stationed there for the +purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 14th._--The weather being unpropitious, and finding +ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day +enjoying the comfort of a roof. + +"_Thursday, the 15th._--Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn; +the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D. +Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely +incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire +was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to +lie down; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I +waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued my route, accompanied by +the Indians, leaving H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen +miles. + +"_Friday, the 16th._--Set off at four, A.M. Arrived at dusk at Port +Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and long +beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name. + +"_Saturday, the 17th._--An Indian was despatched early in the morning, +to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington +Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want +of food than medicine." + +Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at +present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy +or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of +their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an +understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing +to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so +conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation +among themselves, they expressed their intention to be guided by our +advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my +despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to +be forwarded thence to Canada, _via_ the Company's posts along the +Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay for my guides (who had +gone to pay the _kettles_ of their friends a visit), preparatory to my +departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than +I had calculated upon, from the prevalence of excessively bad weather +for a fortnight. + +Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned the same evening; but +they were so emaciated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking +like so many spectres--a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at +that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however, +declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load; +and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany his relative. Two +young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much +reduced as the others, I proposed to them to accompany me as far +as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they +consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along +with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself and two men, along with my +"husky" interpreter, followed next morning; but as we are to retrace +our steps by the same way we came, it will be unnecessary to narrate +the occurrences of each day. + +We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one +of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and +unable to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, did not +much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his +route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest +camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our +guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal +malady,--this was the climax to my disappointment. I determined on +returning to Fort Smith with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I +hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the +end of the season. + +I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the +dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson +in charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. On the morning +of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to +haul the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further +orders. + +My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing +sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis +of the malady; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered +strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which +I joyfully assented; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the +19th of March, and joined my men next day. + +Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I +started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength +enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of +provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. We +overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide +from his relatives while we pursued the same route. We arrived on the +30th at their last stage, and encamped together. + +Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my +guide, announcing his determination to proceed no farther, unless +Pellican were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately, +and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of +such a proposition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for +ourselves--that it would expose the whole party to the risk of +starvation; but I addressed a thing without reason and without +understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield. + +We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining +our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was +altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too +apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to +avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences; +and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two +parties,--the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort, +by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other, +which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to +absolute want. + +Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied by the guide and +H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson to make the best of his way, with the +Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the +provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were +soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved +to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on +the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present +circumstances, "food for the gods." Such as it was, it enabled us to +keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th +of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country +assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends--our +guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to +meet my rear-guard,--the other servants about the establishment, who +were accustomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer. + +On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with +Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he +replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles +distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could +not be prevailed upon to go a step farther; and that he (Pellican) +had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they +expected. They were within a day's journey of them; and yet the +wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, leaving the others +to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely; +yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, who have but +little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from +the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived, +were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing; and I had the +satisfaction to see my famished _compagnons de voyage_ arrive, on the +26th of April. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT--EXPLORING PARTY--THEIR + REPORT--ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX--ESTABLISH POSTS--POUNDING + REIN-DEER--EXPEDITION UP GEORGE'S RIVER--ITS + DIFFICULTIES--HAMILTON RIVER--DISCOVER A STUPENDOUS + CATARACT--RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA--SUDDEN STORM, + AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. + + +Having thus ascertained the impracticability of the inland +communication, I transmitted the result of my observations to the +Governor--a report which, I doubt not, proved rather unpalatable to +his Excellency, unaccustomed as he is to have any of his movements +checked by that impudent and uncompromising word--impossible. I +was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt had proved uncommonly +successful; so that I had now the means of carrying into effect the +Governor's instructions on this point. On the approach of spring, +preparations were made for establishing a post inland; guides were +hired for the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success. + +At this time I was visited by a very grievous affliction, in the loss +of my beloved wife, whose untimely death left me in a more wretched +condition than words can express. This was truly an eventful year for +me;--within that space I became a husband, a father, and a widower;--I +traversed the continent of America, performing a voyage of some +1,500 miles by sea, and a journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on +snow-shoes. + +As soon as the navigation became practicable (June 18), Mr. Erlandson +set off for the interior, with his outfit, in three small canoes, and +after much toil reached his destination on the 10th of July. On the +return of the men who had assisted in the transport, I fitted out +an expedition to explore the coast to the westward, with the view of +ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter, for the extension of +the business. The party was absent about a month; and their report +was entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying our "ameliorating +system" so far. The navigation of the coast is exceedingly dangerous, +from the continual presence of ice, and the extraordinary force of the +currents. While the coast proved so inaccessible, the interior of the +country wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect; not a tree, nor +shrub, nor plant of any land, is to be seen, save the lichens that +cover the rocks, and a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom our +people had seen, evinced the same amicable disposition by which their +whole race is distinguished. They received our people with open arms, +and some of the young damsels seemed disposed to cultivate a closer +intimacy with them than their ideas of propriety, or at least their +olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia that proceeds from +their persons in the summer season is quite insufferable; it is as if +you applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil. + +In the course of the summer, several Esquimaux arrived from the +westward, with a considerable quantity of fox-skins,--the only fur +this barren country yields. Some of these poor creatures had passed +nearly two years on their journey hither, being obliged to hunt or +fish for their living as they travelled. They set off on their return +with a little tobacco, or a few strings of beads;--very few having the +means of procuring guns and ammunition. + +Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the month of September, when +I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a +junior clerk appointed to the district. By him we received the first +intelligence of the stirring events that had taken place in the +colonies during the preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs of my +countrymen's arms over French treachery and Yankee hatred, diverted +my thoughts, for the first time, from the melancholy subject of my +late bereavement; the thoughts of which my solitude served rather to +cherish than dispel. + +Having learned from the natives that a river fell into the bay, +about eighty miles to the eastward, that offered greater facilities +for carrying on the business in the interior than our present +communication, I ordered the men who had assisted Mr. Erlandson, +to descend by this river,--an enterprise which was successfully +accomplished. Their report confirming that of the natives, I forthwith +determined on establishing a post there; and the season being now +far advanced, I had no sooner decided on the step than I set about +carrying it into execution. A party was despatched with every +requisite for the purpose, about the 15th of September; and I received +a communication from them in October, informing me that they had +discovered a convenient situation for erecting the buildings. The +materials being found on the spot, and the men aware of the approach +of winter, and straining every nerve to secure themselves against its +rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were raised and already +occupied. + +In the early part of winter, being, I may say, entirely alone,--for +there remained only one man and an interpreter with me,--I amused +myself by shooting partridges, which abounded in the neighbourhood +that season; but the cold became so excessive as the winter advanced, +that I was compelled to forego that amusement, and confine myself to +the four walls of my prison, with the few books I possessed as my only +companions. My despatches for the civilized world being completed, I +was altogether at a loss how to forward them, as none of the natives +could be induced, even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. At +length one was found who consented to accompany one of my men to Mr. +Erlandson's post, but no farther. + +My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had the mortification to +learn on their return that the packet remained at the outpost, +owing to an accident that befel one of the Indian guides, and which +incapacitated him for the trip. Our friends would thus remain in +ignorance of our fate for nearly two years. The report received +regarding the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as far as the +trade was concerned; but the privations suffered by those engaged in +it, it was painful to learn; their sole subsistence consisted of fish, +rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage it had sustained from +the heat of the sun, and a few rabbits and partridges. Who would not +be an Indian trader? + +Early in the month of March the rein-deer made their appearance again, +and every countenance brightened up at the thoughts of the approaching +pastime. I fell on a plan, however, that divested the sport of much +of its attractions, although calculated to ensure greater success. +A favourable position being selected, a certain extent of ground was +fenced in so as to form a "pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap +being left in it to admit the game from the river side. This done, I +caused branches to be placed on the ice above and below the deer pass, +which the animals observing, became alarmed, and running from side to +side of the open space between the lines of branches, at length made a +dash at the opposite side of the river, and entered the trap prepared +for them at a gallop, continuing at the top of their speed until +stopped by the upper part of the "pound," when they wheeled round, and +making for the entrance, were received with a volley of balls from +the huntsmen; a continual fire being kept up upon them in this manner +until they all dropped. + +The scene presented by the slaughter was anything but agreeable, yet +stern necessity compelled me to continue the butchery; and the success +that attended my scheme far exceeded my expectations. The first herd +that entered, in number about fifty, burst through the fence; but our +works were immediately strengthened, so as to defy their efforts in +future to escape. A herd of 300 was soon after entrapped, and in the +course of two hours all were killed. + +Having thus obtained an ample stock of provisions, the different +parties employed at the fishing and hunting stations were recalled, +and preparations were begun for our summer campaign, in which I +determined to take an active part. The favourable report of last +summer respecting the East or George's River, combined with reports +that had reached me since of another large river flowing a short +distance to the south of Esquimaux Bay, suggested the possibility of +carrying on our business on this line of communication. With the view, +therefore, of carrying this design into effect, I had a boat built +in the course of the winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew +on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of ice at an earlier +period; and sweeping down on the top of the current at railroad speed, +reached the sea in about three hours. + +It being still early in the day, and no ice to be seen, we pulled for +the opposite side of the bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The +weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, and had proceeded +about seven miles with every prospect of effecting our purpose, +when lo! the tide was observed to be making against us; and the ice +returning with it, apparently in a compact body, we were placed in +rather a critical situation. The sun was declining, while the coast +presented a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility of +landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River. + +Towards that point, therefore, the head of the boat was directed, and +the crew, seeing the imminence of the danger, rowed with all their +might; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we made good our landing +ere the ice closed in around us. A few minutes after not a speck of +water could be descried. + +Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, leaving only a narrow +strip of open water along the shore; into this channel we pushed our +boat, and for some time made but little progress, being continually +interrupted by pieces of ice, which the high tide detached from the +shore. Our channel, however, soon widened, and in a short time not +a particle of ice could be seen, disappearing as if by magic; for +in a few minutes after it began to move, no traces of it could be +discovered as far as the eye could reach to seaward. We reached East +or George's River, without further interruption, on the 3d of July, +where we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th. + +The post established here last autumn is situated in a still more +cheerless spot than Fort Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills, +whose sides are covered with the _débris_ of rock, which appears to +have been detached from the hills by the process of decay. The post +stands at the foot of one of those frightful hills, while another +rises immediately in front; the intervening valleys, or cavities, +present nothing to enliven the scene, save a few stunted pines, and +here and there a patch of snow. + +The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region of sterility and desolation, +at first appeared delighted with the idea of having whites among them: +finding, however, that our presence yielded them no advantage, they +soon became indifferent about us, and proceeded to the Moravian +settlement with the produce of their hunts, where they obtained their +little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed. + +My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted of ten able men; and +an Indian guide accompanied us in his canoe. As we ascended, our +difficulties increased at every step, the water being much lower than +last year. I found myself engaged in a more laborious work than I had +ever yet undertaken--towing the boat day after day against a current +flowing in a continuous rapid, so as to admit of not one moment's +relaxation, unless during the short interval allowed for rest to +such as could take it--no easy matter when myriads of sand-flies and +mosquitoes filled the air and tortured us incessantly. + +We continued to advance in this manner, hauling, pulling, carrying, +and even launching the boat for about fifteen days, when we reached +an expansion of the river, without any perceptible current, and +sufficiently deep to admit of the use of the oar. + +Our labour was now supposed to be at an end by those who had explored +the river; no further doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching +Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends and news from all +quarters would reward us for all our toils. Let not him who knows not +what it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and the great +world, year after year, think lightly of the reward which the solitary +trader, in his remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, however, +were soon dissipated. Having reached the upper extremity of the +still water, we encountered difficulties that defied every attempt to +surmount. + +The lake just referred to proved to be the source of the lower +stream; the rivulet that flowed into it from above being so shallow +as scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. It was therefore +impossible to proceed with the boat, a circumstance that placed me in +a rather perplexing position; for I had the outfit for the interior in +charge, without which the business, so lately established with every +prospect of success, would fail. + +There was, however, no time to be lost in vain regrets; the advanced +period of the season required instant decision, and our stock +of provisions was diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on +proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe belonging to our guide, +taking two of the men with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to +erect a temporary post; and in the mean time sent my guide to apprize +the Indians in the vicinity of the steps I had taken to supply their +wants next winter. + +These arrangements completed, I embarked in an eggshell of a canoe, so +small as not to admit of anything save the smallest possible supply +of provisions,--tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. Soon after leaving +our encampment, we came to a portage some ten miles in length, and +struck the river again, where, from the report of the men, I expected +no further difficulties would impede our progress. But the event did +not answer my expectations; from the continual drought of the season +the water proved so low that we had to drag along our canoe, wading in +the water, where a boat would have passed with ease last year. In this +manner we continued our toilsome voyage without relaxation for several +days, carrying our canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the water +from early dawn until late at night, when we threw ourselves down +on the ground to pass the night without shelter from the weather +or protection from the stings of our merciless persecutors the +mosquitoes, who pursued their avocation with unwearied assiduity, +so that our rest was small, and that little afforded us but scanty +refreshment. + +Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of the route, was +rendered still slower by our frequent deviations from our course; my +guides having paid but little attention to their instructions last +year. We at length reached the post on the 16th of August, half +starved, half naked, and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the +good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our spirits, if not our +"inexpressibles;" and although much annoyed that no Indians could +be induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I determined on making the +attempt with such assistance as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was +well acquainted with the upper part of the river. + +After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe sufficiently large to +contain several conveniences, to which I had been for some time a +stranger,--a tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us by +day; we fared, too, like princes, on the produce of "sea and land," +procured by the net and the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our +downward course without meeting any interruption, or experiencing any +difficulty in finding our way; when, one evening, the roar of a mighty +cataract burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was at hand. +We soon reached the spot, which presented to us one of the grandest +spectacles in the world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our +enterprise. + +About six miles above the fall the river suddenly contracts, from a +width of from four hundred to six hundred yards, to about one hundred +yards; then rushing along in a continuous foaming rapid, finally +contracts to a breadth of about fifty yards, ere it precipitates +itself over the rock which forms the fall; when, still roaring and +foaming, it continues its maddened course for about a distance of +thirty miles, pent up between walls of rock that rise sometimes to +the height of three hundred feet on either side. This stupendous fall +exceeds in height the Falls of Niagara, but bears no comparison to +that sublime object in any other respect, being nearly hidden from the +view by the abrupt angle which the rocks form immediately beneath it. +If not seen, however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary force with +which it tumbles into the abyss underneath, that we felt the solid +rock shake under our feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the +gulf. A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at a great distance +in clear weather, hangs over the spot. From the fall to the foot of +the rapid--a distance of thirty miles--the zigzag course of the river +presents such sharp angles, that you see nothing of it until within a +few yards of its banks. Might not this circumstance lead the geologist +to the conclusion that the fall had receded this distance? The mind +shrinks from the contemplation of a subject that carries it back to +a period of time so very remote; for if the rock,--syenite, always +possessed its present solidity and hardness, the action of the water +alone might require millions of years to produce such a result! + +After carrying our canoe and baggage for a whole day through bogs, and +swamps, and windfalls, in the hope of finding the river accessible, we +at length gave up the attempt; and with heavy hearts and weary limbs +retracing our steps, we reached the outpost, without accident, after +an absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible to remove either +the returns, or the small quantity of goods remaining on hand, I +determined on leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter here; +and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to assume the charge of the temporary +post, where I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the 1st of +September, and I was delighted at finding my men living in the midst +of abundance;--the surrounding country apparently abounding with +rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of the best quality. I remained +with the men two days to expedite the buildings which were yet +unfinished; and in the meantime a party of Indians arrived, whom we +persuaded to carry our despatches to Esquimaux Bay. + +After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erlandson with two men to +share his solitude, and reached the sea without experiencing any +adventure worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, I was induced, one +evening, by the flattering appearance of the weather, to attempt the +passage of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there was little +danger of being delayed afterwards by stress of weather. This step I +soon had cause to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth surface; +not a breath of wind was felt, and the stars shone out brightly. A few +clouds began to appear on the horizon; and the boat began to rise +and fall with the heaving of the sea. Understanding what these signs +portended, we immediately pulled for the shore; but had scarcely +altered our course when the stars disappeared, a tremendous noise +struck upon our ears from seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the +impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace of land could be +discovered; but we continued to ply our oars, while each succeeding +billow threatened immediate destruction. + +The horrors of our situation increased; the man on the out-look +called out that he saw breakers a-head in every direction, and escape +appeared to be next to impossible. My crew of Scottish Islanders, +however, continued their painful exertions without evincing the +apprehensions they must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was now at +hand. We approached so near to the breakers that it was impossible to +avoid them; and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next moment +would be their last. + +In such a situation the thoughts of even the most depraved naturally +carry them beyond the limits of time; and by these thoughts, I +believe, the soul of every one was absorbed; yet the men lost not +their presence of mind. Suddenly, the voice of the look-out was heard +amid the roar of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark breach +in the line of foam that stretched out before us, which he fancied to +be a channel between the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought us +to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we found it to answer the +man's conjecture; but, so narrow was the passage, that the oars on +both sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute afterwards we found +ourselves becalmed and in safety. The boat being moored, and the men +ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, as we best could, +supperless, and without having tasted food since early dawn. + +The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morning; but we found, to +our great satisfaction, that we had entered a kind of channel that +lay along the shore, where we were protected from the storm by the +innumerable rocky islets that stretched along the mainland. Regarding +the labyrinth of islands through which we had effected a passage +in the darkness, we were struck with wonder at our escape; and felt +convinced that the hand of Providence alone could have guided us +through such perils in safety. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF HUDSON'S STRAIT, ON + A RAFT--DESPATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR--DISTRESS OF THE + ESQUIMAUX--FORWARD PROVISIONS TO MR. E----. RETURN OF THE + PARTY--THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION. + + +We reached Fort Chimo on the 20th September. A greater number of +Esquimaux were assembled about the post than I had yet seen; and among +them I was astonished to find a family from the north side of the +Strait, and still more astonished when I learned the way they had +crossed--a raft formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along the +shore, afforded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise. + +On questioning them what was their object in risking their lives in +so extraordinary an adventure, they replied, that they wanted wood to +make canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait. + +"And what if you had been overtaken by a storm?" said I. + +"We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply. + +In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, a storm having come on +just as they landed on the first island. + +The fact of these people having crossed Hudson's Strait on so rude +and frail a conveyance, strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion +that America was originally peopled from Asia. The Asiatic side of +Behring's Strait affording timber sufficiently large for the purpose +of building boats or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in +supposing that, when once in possession of that wonderful and useful +invention--a boat, they might be induced, even by curiosity--that +powerful stimulus to adventure--to visit the nearest island, and from +thence proceed to the continent of America; and finding it, perhaps, +possessed of superior advantages to the shores they had left, settle +there. My voyageur was evidently induced as much by curiosity as by +the desire of procuring a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's +Strait, where the passage is as wide as between the island in +Behring's Strait and the two continents. + +At an early period of the winter I was gratified by the arrival of +despatches from the civilized world. The packet was found by the +Indians at Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and forwarded to me +by Mr. Erlandson's two men. By his letters I was grieved to learn that +starvation stared him in the face; the fishing, that promised so well +when I passed, having entirely failed, and no deer were to be found. +He wrote me, however, that he would maintain his post while a piece of +parchment remained to gnaw! + +The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of the Governor and +Committee for my "laudable exertions;" while his Excellency intimated, +in language not to be misunderstood, that my promotion depended on my +successful management of the affairs of Ungava, "which he regretted to +find were still in an unpromising state." + +What effect this announcement had on my feelings need not be +mentioned--after a painful servitude of eighteen years thus to +be compelled to make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere I +obtained the reward of my toil, while many others had reached the +goal in a much shorter time without experiencing either hardship or +privation,--the injustice I had suffered, or the deceit that had been +practised on _me_. As a balm to my wounded feelings, my correspondents +in the north informed me that seven clerks had been promoted since I +left Norway House. + +Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a preceding page passed the +winter in this quarter, not daring to return in consequence of an +hostile rencontre they had had with some of their own tribes on their +way hither. The quarrel, like most Indian quarrels, originated in an +attempt to carry off women: both parties had recourse to arms, and +a desperate struggle ensued, in which our visitors were completely +defeated, with the loss of several lives. + +They remained about the post for a short time, admiring its wonderful +novelties--wonderful to them--and then proceeded some distance up the +river to waylay the deer that had already crossed unobserved by them. +The poor creatures, unaware of this fact, remained on the ground until +every article that afforded any kind of sustenance was consumed; when +they started for the post, leaving the weaker of the party to follow +as they best could. They all arrived the same day except two widows, +who had lost their husbands in the fray. I sent off two young men with +a supply of provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having devoured +the food, returned without the women, although I had previously +supplied their own wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own men, +accompanied by an Esquimaux; but, as might have been expected, the +women were found lying dead on the ice near each other. + +Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly request any assistance +from me, the report he communicated as to the failure of provisions +was sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours to relieve his +wants. With this view I hired an Indian lad to act as guide to a party +whom I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. The guide +assured me they would perform the journey, going and coming, in a +month. The appointed period passed, and no accounts of them; and week +after week, until I at last despaired of ever seeing them in life. +At the end of about two months they made their appearance, but in +so deplorable a state of emaciation that we could scarcely recognise +them. + +The roads proved so bad that they were nearly a month on their way +going, and consequently they had consumed almost all the provisions +they had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty supply not +allowing him to afford them any assistance for their return, they +commenced their journey homeward with one meal a day, which they +continued until all was gone, when they fed on their dogs; and they +finally arrived at the house without having tasted any kind of food +for three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the greatest pity; +the interpreter, who came to tell me of their arrival, was in tears. +No time was lost in administering relief; but the greatest caution +was necessary in administering it, or the consequences might have been +fatal. + +I was mortified to find, on the approach of spring, that my stock of +goods did not admit of supplying the interior; and I was consequently +compelled to relinquish the advantages that had cost us so much to +acquire. Without goods we could not, of course, maintain our position +in that quarter. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY--GOVERNOR'S INSTRUCTIONS--MY REPORT + TO THE COMMITTEE--RECOMMEND THE ABANDONMENT OF UNGAVA + SETTLEMENT--SUCCESS OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED + BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON--RETURN BY SEA TO FORT + CHIMO--NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER--INHUMAN + AND IMPOLITIC MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR--CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT + THE POST. + + +Immediately on the opening of the navigation I started for Esquimaux +Bay, with two Indians, in a small canoe, and without any of the +usual conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered to the southern +department, followed in another canoe. + +Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the receipt of despatches +just come to hand by the ship. The Governor's letter apprized me +that a vessel would be sent round to Ungava every alternate year; and +strictly enjoined me to have no further communication with Esquimaux +Bay _overland_, "as much unnecessary expense was incurred by these +journeys." Thus were we consigned to our fate for a period of two +years with as little feeling as if we had been so many cattle, and +debarred from all communication with our friends, by word or letter, +merely to save a trifling expense! + +Could the Honourable Company be swayed by so paltry a consideration in +subjecting us to so grievous an inconvenience? Surely not; a body of +men so respectable could neither have authorized nor sanctioned such +sordid parsimony. The generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson +alone, and to him be the honour ascribed. + +Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the utter hopelessness of the +Ungava adventure, I transmitted a report to the Governor and Committee +on the subject; recommending the abandonment of the settlement +altogether, as the enormous expense of supplying us by sea precluded +the idea of any profit being ever realised; while it was quite evident +the Company's benevolent views toward the Esquimaux could not be +carried into effect. The extreme poverty and barrenness of their +country, and their pertinacious adherence to their seal-skin dresses, +which no argument of ours could induce them to exchange for the +less comfortable articles of European clothing, were insurmountable +obstacles. The Honourable Company, while they wished to supply the +wants of the Esquimaux, still urged the expediency of securing the +trade of the interior. + +A circumstance that came to my knowledge in the course of the winter +promised the attainment of that object. I learned from an old Indian, +that the fall and rapid I met with on my way to the sea the preceding +season, could be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. My +informant had never seen those falls himself, and could, from the +oral report he had heard, give but a very imperfect description of the +route. Still, I determined on making another attempt to explore the +whole river, knowing well, that if I succeeded in discovering the new +route, there could be no further difficulty in supplying the interior. +Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by letters from my friend Mr. +Dease, that the expedition in which he had been engaged was crowned +with success;--the long sought-after north-west passage being at +length laid open to the _knowledge_ of mankind, and a question, that +at one time excited the enterprise of the merchant and the curiosity +of the learned, settled beyond a doubt. + +While on this subject, I cannot help expressing my surprise at the +manner Mr. Dease's name is mentioned in the published narrative of +the expedition, where he is represented as being employed merely +as purveyor. It might have been said with equal propriety that Mr. +Simpson was employed merely as astronomer. The fact is, the services +of both gentlemen were equally necessary; and to the prudence, +judgment, and experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of +the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no less than to the +astronomical science of Mr. Simpson. + +Having finished my correspondence, I embarked for Fort Chimo, on board +a brig that had been recently built for the trade of this district +and that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded no adventure worthy of +notice; icebergs we saw in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us, +but having no desire to form a close acquaintance with them, we kept +at a respectful distance; and finally entered the Ungava River, on the +24th of August, at so early an hour of the day, that we expected to +reach the post ere night-fall. + +We were doomed to disappointment. As we ascended the river, the breeze +fell, and darkness set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Presently, +however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing could be seen a yard +off. In this dilemma our safest course would have been to anchor, +but unfortunately that part of the river was the most unfavourable +possible for our purpose, from the extraordinary strength of the +current, and the rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed quite +at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel struck, altered her course +a little, struck again, put about, and struck again and again. The +anchor was dropped as the only chance of escaping the dangers in which +we were involved. The anchor dragged a short time, and finally caught +apparently in a cleft of the rocks. + +Soon after the tide began to flow, and we fancied our dangers over; +but the crisis was not yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down +with the current of the river with such overwhelming velocity, that +we expected the vessel would be torn from her moorings. Two men were +placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, in spite of their utmost +exertions, she was dashed from side to side like a feather, while +the current pitched into her till the water entered the hawse-holes. +Pitching, and swinging, and dashed about in this fearful manner for +some time, the anchor was at length disengaged, and dragged along the +bottom with a grating noise, which, with the roaring of the rapid, and +the whistling of the wind through the rigging, formed a combination +of sounds that would have appalled the most resolute. The fog having +cleared away, we discovered a point projecting far into the river, +some two hundred yards below, towards which we were drifting +broadside, and rapidly nearing. The boats were got ready, to escape, +if possible, the impending catastrophe, when the vessel was suddenly +brought to with a tremendous jerk, and instantly swung round to the +tide. By this time, however, its strength was considerably abated, and +daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esquimaux who had come on board, +with a note to the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent us +with the utmost despatch. + +Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we weighed anchor, and +advanced to within three miles of the establishment, when a boat was +seen approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On coming along-side, +a rope was thrown to them, and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the +men had scrambled on board, when a sudden blast swelled our sails, and +propelled us through the water with such force, that the fore-part +of the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men floundering in the +water, and the other clinging to the rope. The latter was dragged on +board, severely bruised; but the former remained in the water for at +least two hours, and would have perished before our eyes, had he not +got hold of a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep himself +afloat. We soon anchored opposite the post, and every exertion being +made to expedite the departure of the vessel, we were in the course of +a few days left to vegetate in quiet. + +On examining the quantity of provisions I had received, I was not a +little alarmed to find it scarcely sufficient for the consumption of +one year, his Excellency's communication having acquainted me that +it was a supply for two years! Thus we were thrown on the precarious +resources of the country for life or for death; for if those resources +should fail us, we must either remain and starve on the spot, or, +abandoning the settlement, endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay and +run the risk of starving by the way. Economy so ill-timed argued +as little in favour of the Governor's judgment as of his humanity. +Admitting our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandonment +of the settlement, with all the goods and furs in it, would have +subjected the Company to a very serious loss. Every precaution, +however, was taken to provide against a contingency which involved +such serious consequences; the men were dispersed in every direction +to shift for themselves, some being supplied with guns and ammunition, +others with nets, a lake of considerable extent having been lately +discovered, which the natives reported to abound with fish. Early +in the month of December my fishermen came in with the mortifying +intelligence of the entire failure of the fishery; and soon after +a messenger arrived from the hunting party to beg a supply of +provisions, which my limited means, alas! compelled me to deny. Not +a deer had been seen, and the partridges had become so scarce of late +that they barely afforded the means of sustaining life. All I could +therefore do for my poor men was to supply them with more ammunition +and send them off again. + +While their lot was thus wretched, mine was not enviable; one solitary +meal a day was all I allowed myself and those who remained with me; +and I must do them the justice to say, that they submitted to +these privations without a murmur, being aware that it was only by +exercising the most rigid economy that our provisions could hold +out the allotted time; the arrival of the ship being an event too +uncertain to be calculated upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner, +we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, without expending much +of our imported provisions, until the arrival of the deer in the month +of March, when we fared plentifully if not sumptuously. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION--MY PROMOTION--WINTER AT + CHIMO--OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN--UNGAVA ABANDONED. + + +1841.--On the opening of the navigation I set out on another exploring +expedition. Without entering into particulars so devoid of interest, +I would merely observe that, with patience and perseverance, we +ultimately succeeded in making good our passage by the Hamilton, or +Grand River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect. + +On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the vessel from Quebec riding +at anchor--a joyful sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear +from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence of the events +that had occurred in the world for the last twelve months. The +Governor's communication acquainted me with my promotion, and +_sincerely_ congratulated me on the event. Whether I had reason or not +to doubt his sincerity, let the reader judge who knows the treatment I +had experienced at his hands. Fifteen years ago I was assured of being +in the "direct road to preferment,"--twenty years of toil and misery +have I served to obtain it. + +Considering myself, therefore, under no obligation to his Excellency, +I addressed a letter to the Directors, expressing my thanks for the +benefit they had conferred upon me, and requesting permission to visit +the land of my nativity next year. + +I was fortunate enough to find a couple of canoes at Esquimaux Bay, +sufficiently large to admit of conveying an outfit to the interior, +and equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman in charge of +the district, possessed the will and ability to promote my views. All +my arrangements at this place being completed, I set off on my return, +and was happy to find, on my arrival at the outpost, that the outfit +was rendered in safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on +the way. + +I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of October. The dreary winter +setting in immediately, we commenced the usual course of vegetative +existence; and I consider it as unnecessary as it would be +uninteresting to say anything further concerning it than that this +season passed without our being subjected to such grievous privation +as during the last. The greater part of the people being distributed +among the outposts, reduced our expenditure of provisions so much, +that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the score of starvation; and +the precautions I had taken the preceding winter enabled us not only +to indulge occasionally in the _luxuries_ of bread-and-butter, but +also to contemplate the possibility of the non-arrival of the ship +without much anxiety. + +1842.--On the opening of the navigation I again set out for Esquimaux +Bay, where I found letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome +intelligence that my request for permission to visit Britain had been +granted, and that the Directors, agreeably to my recommendation, had +determined on abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered round this +season to convey the people and property to Esquimaux Bay. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + + CLIMATE OF UNGAVA--AURORA BOREALIS--SOIL--VEGETABLE + PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--BIRDS--FISH--GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. + + +It need scarcely be observed that, in so high a latitude as that +of Ungava, the climate presents the extremes of heat and cold; the +moderate temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, the rigour of +winter being immediately succeeded by the intense heat of summer, and +_vice versá_. + +On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer was observed to rise from +10° below zero to 76° in the shade, the sky clear and the weather +calm; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. For ten days +previously the thermometer ranged from 15° below zero to 32° above, +and the weather was as boisterous as in the month of January, snowing +and blowing furiously all the time. The heat continued to increase, +till the thermometer frequently exhibited from 85° to 100° in the +shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, be owing in a considerable +degree to the reflection of the solar rays from the rocky surface of +the country, a great part of which is destitute of vegetation. When +the wind blows from the sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to +become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are frequently experienced +during summer, and are probably caused by the sea's being always +encumbered by ice. It is remarkable that the severest cold in this +quarter is invariably accompanied by stormy weather; whereas, in the +interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm. + +The winter may be said to commence in October; by the end of this +month the ground is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller +lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, however, and the +strength of the current, often keep Ungava River open till the month +of January. At this period I have neither seen, read, nor heard of +any locality under heaven that can offer a more cheerless abode to +civilized man than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by the ice, when +driven to and fro by the force of the tide, continually stuns the ear; +while the light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs in the air, +shrouding everything in the gloom of a dark twilight. If Pluto should +leave his own gloomy mansion _in tenebris tartari_, he might take up +his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange. + + "The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs + The effect of fire."--MILTON. + +When the river sets fast, the beauties of the winter scene are +disclosed--one continuous surface of glaring snow, with here and there +a clump of dwarf pine, of the bald summits of barren hills, from +which the violence of the winter storms sweep away even the tenacious +lichens. The winter storms are the most violent I ever experienced, +sweeping every thing before them; and often prove fatal to the Indians +when overtaken by them in places where no shelter can be found. The +year previous to my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to a +barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking their women along +with them. While engaged in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them +to make for the mainland with all possible speed. The women were soon +exhausted by their exertions, and, unable to proceed farther, were +at length covered by the snow, and left to their fate. As soon as the +fury of the storm abated, the men went in search of them; but in vain; +they were never found. + +During winter the sky is frequently illuminated by the Aurora Borealis +even in the day-time; and I have observed that when the south wind, +the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, the frost-bound +regions of Canada and Labrador,) blows for any length of time, the sky +becomes clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, however, does the +east wind blow, which, being charged with the vapours of the Atlantic, +induces mild weather even in midwinter, than they again dart forth +their coruscations--more brightly at first, afterwards more faintly, +till, if the wind continue, they again disappear. + +These phenomena seem to warrant the conclusion that the aurora is +produced by the evolving of the electric fluid, through the collision +of bodies of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are observable in +New Caledonia; the east wind, passing over the glaciers of the Rocky +Mountains, cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to cause frost +every month in summer; the west wind, on the contrary, causes heat; +and there, as in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by what may +be termed the Mountain Aurora (_Aurora Montium_?) + +During my residence of five years at Ungava, the thermometer fell +twice to 53° below zero; and frequently ranged from 38° to 48° for +several days together; the extreme heat rose to 100° at noon in the +shade. + +The soil of Ungava consists principally of decayed lichens, which form +a substance resembling the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In this +soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant which I have not seen in +any other part of the continent, although it may elsewhere be found in +similar situations. In the low grounds along the banks of rivers, the +soil is generally deep and fertile enough to produce timber of a large +size; in the valleys are found clumps of wood, which become more and +more stunted as they creep up the sides of the sterile hills, till at +length they degenerate into lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the +sea-coast consist entirely of larch; which also predominates in the +interior, intermixed with white pine, and a few poplars and birches. +The hardy willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle of soil +to take root in; and the plant denominated Labrador tea, flourishes +luxuriantly in its native soil. In favourable seasons the country +is covered with every variety of berries--blueberry, cranberry, +gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry, ground raspberry +(_rubus arcticus_), and the billberry (_rubus chamæmorus_), a +delicious fruit produced in the swamps, and bearing some resemblance +to the strawberry in shape, but different in flavour and colour, being +yellow when ripe. Liquorice root is found on the banks of South River. + +To enumerate the varieties of animals is an easy task; the extremely +barren nature of the country, and the severity of the climate, prove +so unfavourable to the animal kingdom, that only a few of the more +hardy species are to be found here: viz.-- + +Black, brown, grisly, and polar bears. + +Black, silver, cross, blue, red, and white foxes. + +Wolves, wolverines, martens, and the beaver (but extremely rare). + +Otters, minks, musk-rats, ermine. + +Arctic hares, rabbits, rein-deer; and the lemming, in some parts of +the interior. + +When we consider the great extent of country that intervenes between +Ungava and the plains of the "far west," it seems quite inexplicable +that the grisly bear should be found in so insulated a situation, +and none in the intermediate country: the fact of their being here, +however, does not admit of a doubt, for I have traded and sent to +England several of their skins. The information I have received from +the natives induces me to think that the varieties of colour in bears +mark them as distinct species, and not the produce of the same litter, +as some writers affirm. Why, otherwise, do we not find the different +varieties in Canada, where the grisly bear has never been seen? The +sagacious animals seem to be well aware of their generic affinity, +since they are often seen together, sharing the same carcass, and +apparently on terms of the most intimate fellowship. + +It is a singular circumstance, that she-bears with young are seldom +or never killed; at least it is so extraordinary a circumstance, that +when it does happen, it is spoken of for years afterwards. She must, +therefore, retire to her den immediately after impregnation; and +cannot go above three months with young; as instances have occurred +of their being found suckling their young in the month of January, at +which period they are not larger than the common house-rat, presenting +the appearance of animals in embryo, yet perfect in all their parts. + +Bruin prepares his hybernal dormitory with great care, lining it with +hay, and stopping up the entrance with the same material; he enters it +in October, and comes out in the month of April. He passes the winter +alone, in a state of morbid drowsiness, from which he is roused +with difficulty; and neither eats nor drinks, but seems to derive +nourishment from sucking his paws. He makes his exit in spring +apparently in as good condition as when he entered; but a few days' +exposure to the air reduces him to skin and bone. + +The natives pay particular attention to the appearance presented by +the unoccupied dens they may discover in summer: if bruin has removed +his litter of the preceding winter, he intends to reoccupy the same +quarters; if he allows it to remain, he never returns; and the hunter +takes his measures accordingly. + +The black bear shuns the presence of man, and is by no means +a dangerous animal; the grisly bear, on the contrary, commands +considerable respect from the "lord of the creation," whom he attacks +without hesitation. By the natives, the paw of a grisly bear is +considered as honourable a trophy as the scalp of a human enemy. + +The reports I have had, both from natives and white trappers, confirm +the opinion that certain varieties of the fox belong to the same +species,--such as the black, silver, cross, and red; all of which have +been found in the same nest, but never any of the white or blue. The +former, too, are distinguished for their cunning and sagacity; while +the latter are very stupid, and fall an easy prey to the trapper; a +circumstance of itself sufficient to prove a difference of species. + +There are two varieties of the rein-deer,--the migratory, and the +stationary or wood-deer: the latter is a much larger animal, but not +abundant; the former are extremely numerous, migrating in herds at +particular seasons, and observing certain laws on their march, from +which they seldom deviate. The does make their appearance at Ungava +River generally in the beginning of March, coming from the west, and +directing their course over the barren grounds near the coast, until +they reach George's River, where they halt to bring forth their young, +in the month of June. Meantime the bucks, being divided into separate +herds, pursue a direct course through the interior, for the same +river, and remain scattered about on the upper parts of it until the +month of September, when they assemble, and proceed slowly towards +the coast. By this time the does move onward towards the interior, the +fawns having now sufficient strength to accompany them, and follow the +banks of George's River until they meet the bucks, when the rutting +season commences, in the month of October; the whole then proceed +together, through the interior, to the place whence they came. In the +same manner, I have been informed, the deer perform their migratory +circuits everywhere; observing the same order on their march, +following nearly the same route unless prevented by accidental +circumstances, and observing much the same periods of arrival and +departure. + +The colour of the rein-deer is uniformly the same, presenting no +variety of "spotted black and red." In summer it is a very dark grey, +approaching to black, and light grey in winter. The colour of the doe +is of a darker shade than that of the buck, whose breast is perfectly +white in winter. Individuals are seen of a white colour at all seasons +of the year. The bucks shed their antlers in the month of December; +the does in the month of January. A few bucks are sometimes to be +met with who roam about apart from the larger herds, and are in prime +condition both in summer and winter. These _solitaires_ are said to be +unsuccessful candidates for the favours of the does, who, having +been worsted by their more powerful rivals in _contentione amoris_, +withdraw from the community, and assuming the cowl, ever after eschew +female society; an opinion which their good condition at all seasons +seems to corroborate. + +The rein-deer is subject to greater annoyance from flies than any +other animal in the creation; neither change of season nor situation +exempts them from this torture. Their great persecutor is a species +of gad-fly, (_oestries tarandi_,) that hovers around them in clouds +during summer, and makes them the instruments of their own torture +throughout the year. The fly, after piercing the skin of the deer, +deposits its eggs between the outer and inner skin, where they are +hatched by the heat of the animal's body. In the month of March, the +chrysalides burst through the skin, and drop on the ground, when they +may be seen crawling in immense numbers along the deer paths as they +pass from west to east. + +The only birds observed in winter are grouse, ptarmigan, a small +species of wood-pecker, butcher-bird, and the diminutive tomtit. We +are visited in summer by swans, geese, ducks, eagles, hawks, ravens, +owls, robins, and swallows. The eider-duck, so much prized for its +down, is found in considerable numbers. The geese are of a most +inferior kind, owing, I suppose, to the poor feeding the country +affords; when they arrive in summer the ice is often still solid, when +they betake themselves to the hills, and feed on berries. + +The lakes produce only white fish, trout and carp. We took now and +then a few salmon in the river, and there is no doubt that this fish +abounds on the coast. + +In the sea are found the black whale, porpoise, sea-horse, seal, and +the narwal or sea unicorn; the horn of the latter, solid ivory, is a +beautiful object. The largest I procured measured six feet and a half +in length, four inches in diameter at the root, and a quarter of an +inch at the point. It is of a spiral form, and projects from near the +extremity of the snout; it presents a most singular appearance when +seen moving along above the surface of the water, while the animal is +concealed beneath. + +The geological features of the country present so little variety, that +one versed in that interesting science would experience but little +difficulty in describing them; a mere outline, however, is all I can +venture to present. + +Along the sea-coast the formation is granitic syenite; then, +proceeding about forty miles in the direction of South River, syenite +occurs, which, about sixty miles higher up, runs into green stone: +very fine slate succeeds. At the height of land dividing the waters +that flow in different directions, into Esquimaux and Ungava Bays, the +formation becomes syenitic schist, and continues so to within a short +distance of the great fall on Hamilton River; when syenite succeeds; +then gneiss; and along the shores of Esquimaux Bay syenitic gneiss, +and pure quartz: lumps of black and red hornblend are met with +everywhere. The country is covered with boulders rounded off by the +action of water, most of which are different from the rocks _in situ_, +and must have been transported from a great distance, some being of +granite--a rock not to be found in this quarter. + +The rugged and precipitous banks of George's River are occasionally +surmounted by hills; at the base of all these elevations, deep +horizontal indentures appear running in parallel lines opposite each +other on either side of the river,--a circumstance which indicates the +action of tides and waves at a time when the other parts of the land +were submerged, and the tops of those hills formed islands. Along +certain parts of the coast of Labrador rows of boulders are perceived +lying in horizontal lines; the lowest about two hundred yards distant +from high-water mark, while the farthest extend to near the crest of +the adjacent hills. Several deep cavities and embankments of sand are +observed in the interior, bearing unequivocal marks of having been, at +one time, subject to the influence of the sea. + +I shall conclude these few remarks by observing that, whatever +conclusions the geologist may arrive at as to the remote or recent +elevation of this country, the tops of the higher hills appear to have +been formerly islands in the sea; and I doubt not but the same may +be said of the higher lands on every part of the Arctic regions. +Admitting this to have been the case, it contributes to confirm the +theory of that distinguished philosopher, Sir Charles Lyell, as to +the cause of the changes that have taken place in the climate of the +northern regions. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + THE NASCOPIES--THEIR RELIGION--MANNERS AND + CUSTOMS--CLOTHING--MARRIAGE--COMMUNITY OF GOODS. + + +The Indians inhabiting the interior of Ungava, or, it may be said with +equal propriety, the interior of Labrador, are a tribe of the Cree +nation designated Nascopies, and numbering about one hundred men able +to bear arms. Their language, a dialect of the Cree or Cristeneau, +exhibits a considerable mixture of Sauteux words, with a few peculiar +to themselves. The Nascopies have the same religious belief as their +kindred tribes in every other part of the continent. They believe in +the existence of a Supreme Being, the Ruler of the universe, and the +Author of all good. They believe, also, in the existence of a bad +spirit, the author of all evil. Each is believed to be served by a +number of subordinate spirits. Sacrifices are offered to each; to the +good, by way of supplication and gratitude; to the evil, by way of +conciliation and deprecation. Their local genii are also supposed to +be possessed of the power of doing good, or inflicting evil, and are +likewise propitiated by sacrifices; the "men of medicine" are viewed +in nearly the same light. A few of them who visit the king's posts, +have been baptized, and taught to mutter something they call prayers, +and on this account are esteemed good Christians by their tutors; +while every action of their lives proves them to be as much Pagans as +ever; at least, to those who look for some _fruit_ of faith, and who +may be ignorant of the miraculous efficacy of holy water, and can form +no idea of its operation on the soul, they appear so. + +Of all the Indians I have seen, the Nascopies seem most averse to +locomotion; many of them grow up to man's estate without once visiting +a trading post. Previously to the establishment of this post they were +wont to assemble at a certain rendezvous in the interior, and deliver +their furs to some elderly man of the party, who proceeded with +them to the King's posts, or Esquimaux Bay, and traded them for such +articles as they required. So little intercourse have this people had +with the whites, that they may be still considered as unsophisticated +"children of nature," and possessed, of course, of all the virtues +ascribed to such; yet I must say, that my acquaintance with them +disclosed nothing that impressed me with a higher opinion of them than +of my own race, corrupted as they are by the arts of civilized life. + +The Nascopie freely indulges all the grosser passions of his nature; +he has no term in his language to express the sensation of shame; the +feeling and the word are alike unknown. Many circumstances might be +adduced in proof of this, but I have no desire to disgust the reader. +Previously to our arrival here, there was not such an article of +domestic utility known among them as a spoon; the unclean hand +performed every office. They take their meals sitting in a circle +round a kettle, and commence operations by skimming off the fat with +their hands, and lapping it up like dogs; then every one helps himself +to the solids, cutting, gnawing, and tearing until the whole is +devoured, or until repletion precludes further exertions, when, like +the gorged beast of prey, they lie down to sleep. + +The Nascopies practise polygamy more from motives of convenience than +any other--the more wives, the more slaves. The poor creatures, in +fact, are in a state of relentless slavery; every species of drudgery +devolves upon them. When they remove from camp to camp in winter, the +women set out first, dragging sledges loaded with their effects, and +such of the children as are incapable of walking; meantime the men +remain in the abandoned encampment smoking their pipes, until they +suppose the women are sufficiently far advanced on the route to reach +the new encampment ere they overtake them. + +Arrived at the spot, the women clear the ground of snow, erect the +tents, and collect fuel; and when their arrangements are completed, +their lords step in to enjoy themselves. The sole occupation of the +men is hunting, and, in winter, fishing. They do not even carry home +the game; that duty also falls to the lot of the female, unless when +the family has been starving for some time, when the men condescend to +carry home enough for immediate use. + +The horrid practice still obtains among the Nascopies of destroying +their parents and relatives, when old age incapacitates them for +further exertion. I must, however, do them the justice to say, that +the parent himself expresses a wish to depart, otherwise the unnatural +deed would probably never be committed; for they in general treat +their old people with much care and tenderness. The son or nearest +relative performs the office of executioner,--the self-devoted victim +being disposed of by strangulation.[1] When any one dies in winter, +the body is placed on a scaffold till summer, when it is interred. + +[Footnote 1: "Quidam parentes et propinquos, priusquam annis et macie +conficiantur, velut hostias cædunt, _eorumque visceribus epulantur_." +The Nascopies do not feast on the "viscera" of their victims, nor do +I believe the inhabitants of India, or of any other country under +heaven, ever did. Yet the coincidence is singular, in other respects, +at such a distance of time and place.] + +The Nascopies depend principally on the rein-deer for subsistence,--a +dependence which the erratic habits of these animals render extremely +precarious. Should they happen to miss the deer on their passage +through the country in autumn, they experience the most grievous +inconvenience, and often privations, the succeeding winter; as +they must then draw their living from the lakes, with unremitting +toil,--boring the ice, which is sometimes from eight to nine feet +thick, for the purpose of setting their hooks, and perhaps not taking +a single fish after a day's hard work. Nevertheless, they must still +continue their exertions till they succeed, shifting their hooks from +one part of the lake to another, until every spot is searched. They +understand the art of setting nets under the ice perfectly. Towards +the latter end of December, however, the fish gain the deep water, +and remain still to the latter end of March. Not a fish enters the net +during this period. + +Partridges are very numerous in certain localities, but cannot be +trusted to as a means of living, as every part of the country affords +them food, and when much annoyed at one place they move off to +another. + +It will be seen from the foregoing remarks, that the Nascopies, like +all other erratic tribes, are subject to the vicissitudes their mode +of life necessarily involves; at one time wallowing in abundance, at +another dying of want. Fortunately for themselves, they are at present +the most independent of the whites of any other Indians on this +continent, the Esquimaux excepted. The few fur-bearing animals their +barren country affords are so highly prized, that the least exertion +enables them to procure their very limited wants; and the skin of +the rein-deer affords them the most comfortable clothing they could +possess. They have a particular art, too, of dressing this skin, so as +to render it as soft and pliable as chamois, in which state it becomes +a valuable article of trade. + +As trading posts, however, are now established on their lands, I doubt +not but artificial wants will, in time, be created, that may become +as indispensable to their comfort as their present real wants. All the +arts of the trader are exercised to produce such a result, and those +arts never fail of ultimate success. Even during the last two years of +my management, the demand for certain articles of European manufacture +had greatly increased. + +The winter dress of the Nascopie consists of a jacket of deer-skin, +close all round, worn with the hair next the skin, and an over-coat of +the same material reaching to his knees, the hair outside. This coat +overlaps in front, and is secured by a belt, from which depends his +knife and smoking-bag. A pair of leather breeches, and leggings, +or stockings of cloth, protect his legs, though but imperfectly, +from the cold; his hands, however, are well defended by a pair of +gauntlets that reach his elbows; and on his head he wears a cap +richly ornamented with bear's and eagle's claws. His long thick hair, +however, renders the head-gear an article of superfluity,--but it +is the fashion. The dress of the women consists of a square piece of +dressed deer-skin, girt round them by a cloth or worsted belt, and +fastened over their shoulders by leather straps; a jacket of leather, +and cloth leggings. I have also observed some of them wearing a +garment in imitation of a gown. The leather dresses, both of men and +women, are generally painted; and often display more taste than one +would be disposed to give them credit for. + +The travelling equipage of the Nascopies consists of a small leather +tent, a deer-skin robe with the hair on, a leather bag with some down +in it, and a kettle. When he lies down he divests himself of his upper +garment, which he spreads under him; then, thrusting his limbs into +the down bag, and rolling himself up in his robe, he draws his knees +up close to his chin; and thus defended, the severest cold does not +affect him. + +Considering the manner in which their women are treated, it can +scarcely be supposed that their courtships are much influenced by +sentiments of love; in fact, the tender passion seems unknown to the +savage breast. When a young man attains a certain age, and considers +himself able to provide for a wife--if the term may be so debased--he +acquaints his parents with his wish, and gives himself no further +concern about the matter, until they have concluded the matrimonial +negotiations with the parents of _their_, not _his_ intended, whose +sentiments are never consulted on the occasion. The youth then +proceeds to his father-in-law's tent, and remains there for a +twelvemonth; at the end of this period he may remain longer or depart, +and he is considered ever after as an independent member of the +community, subject to no control. Marriages are allowed between near +relatives; cousins are considered as brothers and sisters, and are +addressed by the same terms. It is not considered improper to marry +two sisters, either in succession or both at the same time. + +The Nascopies have certain customs in hunting peculiar to themselves. +If a wounded animal escape, even a short distance, ere he drops, he +becomes the property of the person who first reaches him, and not of +the person who shot him; or if the animal be mortally wounded and do +not fall immediately, and another Indian fire and bring him down, the +last shot gains the prize. + +In their intercourse with us the Nascopies evince a very different +disposition from the other branches of the Cree family, being selfish +and inhospitable in the extreme; exacting rigid payment for the +smallest portion of food. Yet I do not know that we have any right to +blame a practice in them, which they have undoubtedly learned from +us. What do they obtain from us without payment? Nothing:--not a shot +of powder,--not a ball,--not a flint. But whatever may be said of +their conduct towards the whites, no people can exercise the laws +of hospitality with greater generosity, or show less selfishness, +towards each other, than the Nascopies. The only part of an animal the +huntsman retains for himself is the head; every other part is given up +for the common benefit. Fish, flesh, and fowl are distributed in the +same liberal and impartial manner; and he who contributes most seems +as contented with his share, however small it may be, as if he had had +no share in procuring it. In fact, a community of goods seems almost +established among them; the few articles they purchase from us shift +from hand to hand, and seldom remain more than two or three days in +the hands of the original purchaser. + +The Nascopies, surrounded by kindred tribes, are strangers to the +calamities of war, and are consequently a peaceful, harmless people; +yet they cherish the unprovoked enmity of their race towards the poor +Esquimaux, whom they never fail to attack, when an opportunity offers +of doing so with impunity. Our presence, however, has had the effect +of establishing a more friendly intercourse between them; and to the +fact that many of the Esquimaux have of late acquired fire-arms, and +are not to be attacked without some risk, may be ascribed, in no small +degree, the present forbearance of their enemies. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + THE ESQUIMAUX--PROBABLE ORIGIN--IDENTITY OF LANGUAGE + FROM LABRADOR TO BEHRING'S STRAITS--THEIR + AMOURS--MARRIAGES--RELIGION--TREATMENT + OF PARENTS--ANECDOTE--MODE OF PRESERVING + MEAT--AMUSEMENTS--DRESS--THE IGLOE, OR SNOW-HOUSE--THEIR + CUISINE--DOGS--THE SLEDGE--CAIAK, OR CANOE--OUIMIAK, OR + BOAT--IMPLEMENTS--STATURE. + + +The Esquimaux are so totally different in physiognomy and person, in +language, manners, and customs, from all the other natives of America, +that there can be no doubt that they belong to a different branch of +the human race. The conformation of their features, their stature, +form, and complexion, approximate so closely to those of the northern +inhabitants of Europe, as to indicate, with some degree of certainty, +their identity of origin. In the accounts I have read of the maritime +Laplanders, I find many characteristics common to both tribes: the +Laplander is of a swarthy complexion,--so is the Esquimaux; the +Laplander is distinguished by high cheek-bones, hollow cheeks, pointed +chin, and large mouth,--so is the Esquimaux; the Laplander wears a +thick beard,--so does the Esquimaux; the Laplander's hair is long and +black,--so is that of the Esquimaux; the Laplanders are, for the most +part, short of stature,--so are the Esquimaux; and the dress, food, +and lodging of both peoples are nearly the same. The last coincidence +may possibly arise from similarity of location and climate; and, taken +by itself, would afford no certain proof of identity of origin; but +taken in connexion with the aforementioned characteristics, I think +the conclusion is irresistible that the Laplanders and Esquimaux are +of the same race. + +That the Esquimaux and the natives of Greenland are also of a kindred +race, is a fact ascertained beyond a doubt, from the reports of the +Moravian Missionaries, who have settlements among both. + +The way in which they must have passed from the one continent to the +other, must now be left to conjecture. There is nothing improbable +in the supposition that some of them might have been drifted out to +sea by stress of weather, and wafted to the shores of Greenland; +whence some might, in course of time, remove to the opposite coast +of America. From the southern extremity of Labrador to Behring's +Straits, the Esquimaux language is the same, differing only in the +pronunciation of a few words. We had a native of Hudson's Bay with us, +who had accompanied Captain Franklin to the McKenzie and Coppermine +Rivers, and who assured us that he understood the Esquimaux of that +quarter, and those of Ungava, although some thousands of miles apart, +as well as his own tribe. + +In manners, customs, and dress, there is a like similarity. The +Esquimaux have ever remained a distinct people; the other natives of +America seeming to consider them more as brutes than human beings, and +never approaching them unless for the purpose of knocking them on the +head. Every one's hand is against them. I have seen Esquimaux scalps, +even among the timid _têtes des boules_ of Temiscamingue; yet no +people seem more disposed to live at peace with their neighbours, if +only they were allowed. Circumstanced as they are, however, they are +likely to suffer hostile aggression for a long time. Even a coward, +with a musket in his hand, is generally an overmatch for a brave man +with only a bow or a sling; but once possessed of fire-arms, they will +teach their enemies to respect them, for they will undoubtedly have +the advantage of superior courage and resolution. + +The Esquimaux is not easily excited to anger; but his wrath once +roused, he becomes furious: he foams like a wild boar, rolls his eyes, +gnashes his teeth, and rushes on his antagonist with the fury of a +beast of prey. In the winter of 1840, a quarrel arose between two +individuals about the sex, which led to a fight; the struggle was +continued for a time with tooth and nail; when one of the parties at +length got hold of his knife, and stabbed his adversary in the belly. +The bowels protruded, yet the wounded man never desisted, until loss +of blood and repeated stabs compelled him to yield the contest and +his life. Gallantry seems to be the main cause of quarrels among them. +Strange! that this passion should exercise such an influence in a +climate, and, as one would be led to suppose, on constitutions so +cold; yet nothing is more certain than that the enamoured Esquimaux +will risk life and limb in the pursuit of his object. + +With unmarried women there is no risk, as they are entirely free from +control; not so with the married, who are under strict surveillance; +but the husband's consent asked and obtained--which not seldom +happens--saves the gallant's head, and the lady's reputation. + +Their courtships are conducted in much the same manner as among the +inland Indians, the choice of partners being entirely left to the +parents. Some are affianced in childhood, and become man and wife +in early youth: I have seen a boy of fourteen living with his wife +who was two years younger. There are no marriage festivals, and no +ceremonies of any kind are observed at their nuptials. Polygamy is +allowed, _ad libitum_; and the husband exercises his authority as +husband, judge, or executioner; no one having any right to interfere. +Should, however, the woman consider herself ill-treated, she flees to +her parents, with whom she remains till an explanation takes place. +If it lead to a reconciliation, the parties are reunited; if not, the +woman may form a new connexion whenever she pleases. + +I know not whether the Esquimaux can be said to have any idea of +religion, as the term is generally understood. The earth, say they, +was in the beginning covered with water, which having subsided, man +appeared--a spontaneous creation. Aglooktook is the name of the man +who first created fish and animals: chopping a tree which overhung +the sea, the chips that fell into that element became fish; those +that fell on the land, animals. Their paradise is beneath the great +deep; those who have lived a good life, proceed to a part of the sea +abounding with whales and seals, where, free from care and toil, they +fare sumptuously on raw flesh and blubber, _in secula_ _seculorum_. +The wicked, on the contrary, are condemned to take up their abode in a +"sea of troubles," where none of the delicacies enjoyed by the blessed +are to be found; and even the commonest necessaries are procured with +endless toil, and pain, and disappointment. Although the "tomakhs," +or dead men, become the inhabitants of the sea, they indulge in the +pleasures of the chase on their old element, whenever they please; and +are often heard calling to each other while in pursuit of the deer. + +The Esquimaux have their "men of medicine," in whose preternatural +powers they place the most implicit confidence; by working on the +superstitious fears of the people, these impostors obtain much +authority. They are allowed to take the lead in every affair of +importance; and, in short, all their movements are, in a great +measure, regulated by these harlequins, who appear to be the only +chiefs among them. + +They dispose of their dead by placing them on the rocks, and covering +them over with ice or stones; these tombs prove but feeble barriers +against the wolves and other beasts of prey, who soon carry off the +bodies. The property belonging to the deceased is placed by the side +of his grave;--his caiak, or skin canoe, his bows, arrows, and spears. +Thus equipped, the _emigrant_ spirit cannot find itself at a loss on +arriving at a better country! + +It is said by some that the Esquimaux abandon their aged parents: +from inquiry, as well as observation, I am led to believe there is +no foundation for the charge. It is not reasonable to expect that +the more refined feelings of humanity should be found in the breast +of a savage, or that he should honour his father and mother in the +same degree as he whose principles are moulded by the precepts +of Christianity; yet I must do them the justice to say, that they +appeared to me to treat their parents with as much kindness, at least, +as any other savage nation I have met with. They do not deny, however, +that old people no longer able to provide for themselves, and without +any relative to care for them, are sometimes left to perish. + +No people suffer more from hunger than the Esquimaux who inhabit +the shores of Ungava Bay; seals being extremely scarce in the winter +season, and no fish to be found; so that the poor creatures are +often reduced to the most revolting expedients to preserve life. An +Esquimaux, who had been about the post for two years, proceeded, in +the winter of 1839, to join some of his relatives along the coast. +When he returned in the ensuing spring, I observed that his mother +and one of his children were missing. On inquiring what had become of +them, he replied, that they had been starved to death, and that he and +the rest of his family would have shared their fate, had it not been +for the sustenance the bodies afforded. + +The Esquimaux always pass the winter near the element that yields them +their principal subsistence; and as they are unacquainted with the +use of snow-shoes, they cannot follow the deer any distance from the +coast. As soon as the rivers are free from ice in summer, they proceed +inland and find abundance of food. Their manner of preserving their +meat is quite characteristic. When an animal is killed the bowels +are extracted, then the fore and hind quarters are cut off, and being +placed inside the carcass, are secured by skewers of wood run through +the flesh. The whole is then deposited under the nearest cleft +of rock, and stones are built round so as to secure it from the +depredations of wild animals until the hunters return to the coast; +when the meat is in high flavour, and considered fit for the palate of +an Esquimaux epicure. + +The Esquimaux do not share their provisions as the Nascopies do, +although they relieve each other's wants when their means can afford +it: each individual engaged in the chase retains his own game, his +claim being ascertained by distinctive marks on the arrows. When a +whale is killed a rigid fast is observed for twenty-four hours, not in +gratitude to Providence, but in honour of the whale, which is highly +displeased when this is neglected, studiously avoiding the harpoon +afterwards, and even visiting the offender with sickness and other +misfortunes. + +Should the summer and fall hunt prove successful, the Esquimaux is one +of the happiest animals in the creation. He passes his dreary winter +without one careful or anxious thought; he eats his fill and lies +down to sleep, and then rises to eat again. In this manner they pass +the greater part of their time; night and day are the same, eating +and sleeping their chief enjoyments. When, however, they do rouse +their dormant faculties to exertion, they seem to engage with great +good-will in the few amusements they have, the principal of which +is playing ball, men and women joining in the game. Two parties are +opposed, the one driving the ball with sticks towards the goal, +the other driving it in the opposite direction; in short, a game of +shinty. They have dancing too,--ye gods! such dancing! Two rows of men +and women, sometimes only of one sex, stand opposite to each other, +exhibiting no other motion in their dancing than raising their +shoulders with a peculiar jerk, bending their knees so as to give +their whole bodies, from the knee upwards, the same motion, and +grinning horribly at each other, while not a foot stirs. + +As to the music to which this _dance_ is performed, I know not well +how to describe it. By inflating and depressing the lungs so as +to create a convulsive heaving of the breast, a sound is produced, +somewhat similar to the groans of a person suffering from suffocation; +and it is to this sound they grin, and jerk their shoulders. The whole +performance is quite in keeping; the music worthy of the dancing, the +dancing worthy of the music. They have boxing too, but do not practise +the art after the fashion of the Cribs and Coopers; they disdain to +parry off the blow; each strikes in turn with clenched fist; the +blow is given behind the ear, and, as soon as one of the parties +acknowledges himself defeated, the combat ceases. They are also adepts +at wrestling; I have witnessed frequent contests between them and the +inland Indians, when the latter were invariably floored. + +No one enjoys a joke better than an Esquimaux, and when his risibility +is excited he laughs with right good will, evincing in this, as in +every other respect, the difference of disposition between them and +the Indians, whose rigid features seldom betray their feelings. Much +the same diversity of character and disposition is to be observed +among the Esquimaux as among other barbarous tribes. Some instances +of disinterested kindness and generosity fell under my notice while +residing among them, that would have done honour to civilized man. + +An Esquimaux who had attached himself to the establishment from the +time of our first arrival at Ungava, kept a poor widow and her three +orphans with him for several years, and seemed to make no difference +between them and the members of his own family. It must be +acknowledged, however, that the unhappy widows seldom fall into so +good hands; their fate is the most wretched that can be imagined, +unless they have children that can provide for them. In years of +scarcity they are rejected from the community, and hover about the +encampments like starving wolves, picking up whatever chance may +throw in their way, until hunger and cold terminate their wretched +existence. + +Whatever may be said of the awkwardness of the Esquimaux dress, it +must be allowed to be the best adapted to the climate that could be +used: a pair of boots so skilfully sewed as to exclude the water, and +lined with down, or the fine hair of the rein-deer, protects the feet +from wet and cold; two pairs of trousers, the inner having the hair +next the skin; and two coats or tunics of deer or seal skin, the outer +having a large hood that is drawn over the head in stormy weather, +and a pair of large mits, complete the dress. The women also "wear +the breeks," their dress being similar to that of the men in every +respect, with this difference, that the female has a long flap +attached to the hind part of her coat, and falling down to her +heels; a most extraordinary ornament, giving her the appearance of +an enormous tadpole. This tail, however, has its use; when she has +occasion to sit down on the cold rocks she folds it up and makes a +seat of it. + +In the winter season the Esquimaux live in huts built of snow; and +we may imagine what must have been the necessity and distress that +could first have suggested to a human being the idea of using such +a material as a means of protecting himself from cold. Be that as it +may, the snow _igloe_ affords not only security from the inclemency +of the weather, but more comfort than either stone or wooden building +without fire. The operation requires considerable tact and experience, +and is always performed by the men, two being required for it, one +outside and the other inside. + +Blocks of snow are first cut out with some sharp instrument from the +spot that is intended to form the floor of the dwelling, and raised +on edge, inclining a little inward around the cavity. These blocks +are generally about two feet in length, two feet in breadth, and +eight inches thick, and are joined close together. In this manner the +edifice is erected, contracting at each successive tier, until there +only remains a small aperture at the top, which is filled by a slab of +clear ice, that serves both as a keystone to the arch, and a window to +light the dwelling. An embankment of snow is raised around the wall, +and covered with skins, which answers the double purpose of beds +and seats. The inside of the hut presents the figure of an arch or +dome; the usual dimensions are ten or twelve feet in diameter, and +about eight feet in height at the centre. Sometimes two or three +families congregate under the same roof, having separate apartments +communicating with the main building, that are used as bedrooms. The +entrance to the igloe is effected through a winding covered passage, +which stands open by day, but is closed up at night by placing slabs +of ice at the angle of each bend, and thus the inmates are perfectly +secured against the severest cold. + +The Esquimaux use no fuel in winter; their stone lamps afford +sufficient heat to dry their boots and clothes, or warm their blubber +and raw meat when they are so inclined. They are inured to cold by +early habit; the children are carried about in the hoods of their +mothers' jackets until three years of age; during this period they +remain without a stitch of clothing, and the little things may be +sometimes seen standing up in their nests, exposing themselves in the +coldest weather, without appearing to suffer any inconvenience from +it. The Esquimaux never sleep with their clothes on, not even when +without any other shelter than the cleft of a rock. + +It is well known that they eat their food, whether fish or flesh, +generally in a raw state; hence their appellation, "Ashkimai," in +the Cree and Sauteux, means, eater of raw meat, and is doubtless +the origin of the name Esquimaux first applied by the earlier French +discoverers, and since then passed into general use. They sometimes, +indeed, warm their food in a stone kettle over a stone lamp, but they +seem to relish it equally well when cut warm from the carcase of an +animal recently killed, which they may be seen devouring while yet +quivering with life. + +In winter they prefer raw meat, especially fish, which is considered +a great delicacy in a frozen state; the Esquimaux stomach, in fact, +rejects nothing, raw or boiled, that affords sustenance. Like the +inland Indians, they can bear hunger for an amazing length of time, +and afterwards gorge themselves with more than brutal voracity without +suffering inconvenience by it. + +The Esquimaux breed of dogs are wolves in a domesticated state, the +same in every characteristic, save such differences as may be expected +to result from their relative conditions; the dog howls, never barks. +These animals are of the most essential service to their masters, +and are maintained at no expense. How they manage to subsist appears +inexplicable to me; not a morsel of food is ever offered to them at +the camp, and when employed hauling sledges on a journey, a small +piece of blubber given them in the evening enables them to perform the +laborious work of the ensuing day. + +From ten to fifteen dogs are employed on a long journey. They are +harnessed separately by a collar and a single trace passing over their +back, and fastened to the fore-part of the sledge. The traces are +so arranged that the dogs generally follow in a line, conducted by a +leader, who is trained to obey the word of command in an instant; the +least hesitation on his part brings the merciless whip about his ears. +The lash is about fifteen feet in length, the handle eighteen inches; +continual practice enables the Esquimaux to wield this instrument +of torture with great dexterity. The sledges are about five feet in +length and two in breadth; the runners generally shod with whalebone +or ivory, and coated over with a plaster of earth and water, which +becomes very smooth, and is renewed as often as it is worn out. + +The Esquimaux _caiak_, or canoe, is about twelve feet in length, and +two feet in breadth, and tapers off from the centre to the bow and +stern, almost to a mere point. The frame is of wood covered with +seal-skin, having an aperture in the centre which barely admits of +the stowage of the nether man. These canoes are calculated for the +accommodation of one person only; yet it is possible for a passenger +to embark upon them, if he can submit to the inconvenience--and +risk--of lying at full length on his belly, without ever stirring +hand or foot, as the least motion would upset the canoe. Instances, +however, have been known of persons conveyed hundreds of miles in this +manner. These canoes are used solely for hunting; and, by means of the +double paddle, are propelled through the water with the velocity +of the dolphin; no land animal can possibly escape when seen in the +water; the least exertion is sufficient to keep up with the rein-deer +when swimming at its utmost speed. When the animal is overtaken, it is +driven towards the spot where the huntsman wishes to land, and there +despatched by a thrust of the spear. + +The Esquimaux of this quarter have not the art of recovering their +position, when they upset. An accident of this kind is, therefore, +sure to prove fatal, unless aid be at hand. It is seldom, however, +that aid is wanting, for these accidents never happen except in the +excitement of the sport, especially harpooning whales, when there +are always a number present. The _ouimiack_, or skin-boat, is a +clumsy-looking contrivance, but not to be despised on that account; +from the buoyancy of the materials of which it is built, the ouimiack +stands a much heavier sea than our best sea-boat. This kind of craft +is rowed by women, and used for the purpose of conveying families +along the coast. + +The few implements these people use for hunting or fishing, display +much taste and ingenuity. Their caiaks are proportioned with +mathematical exactness, the paddles often tastefully inlaid with +ivory; their spears are neatly carved, and their bows are far superior +to any I have seen among the interior tribes, combining strength and +elasticity in an eminent degree. + +Their mode of capturing the white whale is extremely ingenious. A +large _dan_, or seal-skin inflated with wind, is attached to the +harpoon by a thong some twenty feet in length. The moment the fish is +struck the _dan_ is thrown overboard, and being dragged through the +water, offers so great a resistance to the movement of the fish that +it soon becomes exhausted by the exertion, and when it emerges lies +exposed on the water, to take rest ere it dive again. The Esquimaux +then approaches from behind, and often secures his game with +one thrust of the spear. The Esquimaux also uses a javelin with +considerable skill, and some are so dexterous in the use of the sling +as to bring down wild fowl on the wing. + +The complexion of the Esquimaux is swarthy; I have seen some of their +children, however, as fair as the children of the fairest people +in Europe, yet these become as dark as their parents when advanced +in years. This circumstance cannot be accounted for by filthiness +or exposure to the weather; for I have observed, on the coast of +Labrador, the descendants of an Esquimaux mother and a European father +of the third generation as dark as the pure Esquimaux; and these, too, +enjoyed the comforts of civilized life, were cleanly in their persons, +and not more exposed to the weather than others. + +The Esquimaux are low of stature, but I do not think the epithet +"dwarfish" applies to them with propriety. With the view of +ascertaining this point, I once took five men promiscuously from a +party of twenty, and found their average height to be 5 feet 5 inches. +Some individuals of the remainder measured 5 feet 7 or 8 inches, and +one exceeded 6 feet. The fact is, the Esquimaux are generally thicker +than Europeans; their peculiar dress also adds greatly to their bulk, +so that they appear shorter than they really are. They are so bound up +in their seal-skin garments that their movements are necessarily much +impeded by them, we can, therefore, form no idea of their agility; but +I do not hesitate to say that their strength exceeds that of any other +nation on the continent. + +The Esquimaux features are far from being disagreeable; some females +I observed among them whose expression of countenance was extremely +prepossessing, and who would pass for "bonnie lasses" even among the +whites, if divested of their filth and uncouth dress, and rigged out +in European habiliments. The women fasten their hair in a knot on the +crown of the head, and anoint it with rancid oil in lieu of pomatum; +they also tattoo their faces, with the view, no doubt, of enhancing +their charms in the estimation of their blubber-eating lovers. Their +teeth are remarkably white and regular; the eyes are black, and +partake more of the circular than the oval form; the cheek-bones are +prominent, forehead low, mouth large, and chin pointed. + +The Esquimaux generally enjoy good health, and no epidemic diseases, +as far as I could learn, are known among them. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + LABRADOR--ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS--MORAVIAN BRETHREN--EUROPEAN + INHABITANTS--THEIR VIRTUES--CLIMATE--ANECDOTE. + + +The country denominated Labrador, extends from Esquimaux Bay, on +the Straits of Belleisle, to the extremity of the continent, Cape +Chudleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior is +inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers and Nascopies, +members of the Cree family. The coast was inhabited at one time by +Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now peopled by a mongrel race +of Esquimaux half-breeds, a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some English +and Canadian fishermen and trappers, who are assimilated to the +natives in manners and in mode of life. While the European inhabitants +adopt from necessity some of the native customs, the natives +have adopted so much of the European customs that their primitive +characteristics are no longer distinguishable; they cook their +victuals, drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally dress after +the European manner, especially the females, who always wear gowns. +They have also a smattering of French and English, and are great +proficients in swearing in both languages; nor do they seem ignorant +of the more refined arts of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking +everything into account, however, we may be surprised that their +manners are not more corrupt than they are. + +A number of small trading vessels from the United States hover about +the coast during summer; the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a +primary article in their outfit, and is bartered freely for such +commodities as the natives may possess. These adventurers are +generally men of loose principles, and are ever ready to take the +advantage of their customers. The natives, however, are now so well +instructed that they are more likely to cheat than be cheated. + +The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts of the coast differ in +every respect from their neighbours of the south. They have acquired +a knowledge of the Christian religion, together with some of the more +useful arts of civilized life, without losing much of their primitive +simplicity. The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors of the +Apostles," after enduring inconceivable hardships and privations for +many years, without the least prospect of success, at length succeeded +in converting the heathens, collecting them in villages around them, +and at the same time not only instructing them in things pertaining to +their eternal salvation, but in everything else that could contribute +to their comfort and happiness in the present life. There are four +different stations of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and Hebron. +At each station there is a church, store, dwelling-house for the +Missionaries, and workshops for native tradesmen. The natives are +lodged in houses built after the model of their _igloes_, being the +best adapted to the climate and circumstances of the country, where +scarcely any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm their houses by +means of stoves. + +The Brethren have much the same influence with their flocks as a +father among his children. Whatever provisions the natives collect +are placed at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed in +such a manner as to be of the most general benefit; by thus taking +the management of this important matter into their own hands, the +consequences of waste and improvidence are guarded against, and the +means of subsistence secured. + +In years of great scarcity the Brethren open their own stores, having +always an ample supply of provisions on hand, so that through their +fostering care the natives never suffer absolute want. The Brethren +have also goods for trading, which they dispose of at a moderate +profit; the profits accruing from the business are thrown into the +general funds of the institution. It is said they carry on trade in +every part of the world where they have missions. Their object is not +to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to extend the kingdom of +Christ on earth; to enlighten the nations; and by instructing them in +the knowledge of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" in this +life, and secure their eternal happiness in the life to come. + +From the paternal anxiety with which these good people watch over the +morals of their flocks, they discourage as much as possible the visits +of strangers; fearing that intercourse with them might open their eyes +to the allurements of vice. In spite of all their vigilance, however, +they have sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. It is an +established rule, moreover, with them, never to allow a stranger to +sleep within their gates; he is hospitably received and treated with +kindness and attention, but on the approach of evening he is apprised +that he must shift for himself: care is taken, however, to provide him +with lodgings in one of the native huts, where he can pass the night +in tolerable comfort. Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he +is at liberty to depart when he pleases. + +The European inhabitants of Labrador are for the most part British +sailors, who, preferring the freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the +society of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime discipline and +the endearments of the civilized fair, take up their abode for life in +this land of desolation. + +In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor settles down into the +regular grave father of a family; and by sobriety and good conduct, +may ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old age. Jack's +characteristic thoughtlessness, however, sometimes adheres to him even +when moored on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is +truly miserable. + +They pass the summer in situations favourable for catching salmon, +which they barter on the spot with the stationary traders for such +commodities as they are in want of. When the salmon fishing is at +an end, they proceed to the coast for the purpose of fishing cod for +their own consumption, and return late in autumn to the interior, +where they pass the winter trapping fur animals. + +The planters, as they are designated, live in houses which they +call "tilts," varying in shape and size according to the taste or +circumstances of the owner. These buildings are generally formed of +stakes driven into the ground, chinked with moss, and covered with +bark; they are always warmed with stoves, otherwise the _igloe_ would +afford more comfort. + +The half-breeds live in much the same way as their European +progenitors; they are generally sober and industrious; and although +unacquainted with any particular form of religious worship, they +evince, in their general deportment, a greater regard to the precepts +of Christianity than many who call themselves Christians. They are +entirely free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, and are +guilty of few of its vices; should a frail fair, however, make a _faux +pas_, it is no bar to her forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards. +The women are much fewer than the men, and on this account a greater +indulgence may be extended to their faults than otherwise would be. + +I was surprised to find them all able to read and write, although +without schools or schoolmasters. The task of teaching devolves +upon the mother; should she (what seldom happens) be unqualified, a +neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction. + +The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious and ingenious; they +are at a loss for nothing. The men make their own boats, and the women +prepare everything required for domestic convenience; almost every +man is his own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman a tailor and +shoemaker. They seem to possess all the virtues of the different races +from which they are sprung--except courage; they are generally allowed +to be more timid than the natives. But if not courageous, they possess +virtues that render courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence, +and are seldom, therefore, injured by others. + +The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing here a few years ago, by +buying out some of the petty traders, whose operations extended to the +interior, and consequently interfered with the hopeful Ungava scheme; +independently, however, of this consideration, expectations were +entertained that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable branch +of the business, from its various resources in fish, oil, and furs. +These expectations were not realized, owing to the strong competition +the Company met with; while their interference in the trade subjected +them to the charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which appears but +too well founded, considering the monopoly they possess of the whole +fur trade of the continent. "Plus le D----e a, plus il voudrait +avoir," is an old adage; nor have we any reason to believe that any +other mercantile body would be less ambitious of increasing their +gains, than their _honours_ of Fenchurch-street. + +There are several establishments along the coast, belonging chiefly to +merchants from Plymouth and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon and cod +fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic also with the planters. +This business was at one time considered very lucrative; of late +years, however, competition has increased from all quarters, and +prices in the European market have diminished, so that the profits are +now greatly reduced. + +The climate of the southern section of Labrador is by no means severe; +the thermometer, even in the coldest months of the year, seldom +falling lower than 30° below zero. Along the shores of Esquimaux Bay, +a few spots have been found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes +and other culinary vegetables have been raised in abundance. Grain, +especially oats and barley, would doubtless also thrive; it so +happens, however, that the inhabitants are under the necessity of +devoting their attention to other pursuits during the season of +husbandry; so that the few that attempt "gardening," derive small +benefit from it. They sow their seed before starting for the coast, +and leave nature to do the rest. + +I shall close my description of Labrador by narrating a rather +tragical event that occurred a few years ago. An old fisherman, +formerly a sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, lived +together in the greatest amity and concord. The son, after the death +of his mother, attended to domestic affairs, and also assisted his +father at out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, however, +it was considered expedient to hire a female, so that they might give +their undivided attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained +long with them, when her charms began to make an impression on Jack's +still sensitive heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid their +addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred. + +The demon of jealousy now took possession of the father's breast; and +his conduct became so violent and cruel, that his son determined on +parting company with him and carrying off the girl. Seizing the only +boat that belonged to his father, he slipped away under cover of night +with his companion, and put ashore on the first island they found. A +violent storm arose in the course of the night, and either dashed the +boat to pieces on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus the +unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. This event happened late +in autumn. The winter passed without any word being heard of the +lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were found clasped in each +other's arms, and the young man's gun close by with fifteen notches +cut in the stock, supposed to mark the number of days they suffered +ere relieved by death. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVE AT + THE PLACE OF MY NATIVITY--CHANGES--DEPOPULATION--LONDON--THE + THAMES--LIVERPOOL--EMBARK FOR NEW YORK--ARRIVAL--THE + AMERICANS--ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TOURISTS--ENGLAND AND + AMERICA--NEW YORK. + + +1842.--I embarked for England on the 18th of August, on board a small +schooner of sixty tons, deeply laden with fish and oil. It is scarcely +necessary to observe, that the accommodations the craft afforded +were of the meanest kind; but the inconveniences weighed lightly in +the scales, when compared with the anticipated delight of visiting +one's native land. We had a very fine passage; a steady fair breeze +carried us across the broad Atlantic in a fortnight. The green hills +of Cornwall came in view on the 1st of September, and I had the +satisfaction of treading the soil of England early on the 3d. + +I remained a few days at Plymouth, to feast my eyes on scenery such as +I had long been a stranger to;--scenery, I may say, unrivalled by any +I had ever beheld at home or abroad. What spot in the world, in fact, +can present such varied charms, as the summit of Mount Edgecumb? where +the most refined taste, aided by the amplest means, has been employed +for a thousand years in beautifying the glorious landscape. To me, +just arrived from _Ungava_, the beauties of the scene were undoubtedly +heightened by the contrast; and one short visit to Mount Edgecumb +effaced from my mind the dreary prospect of bleak rocks, snow banks, +and icebergs, with which it had been so long and so sadly familiar, +and inspired it with a rapture and delight to which it had long been +a stranger. Yet this terrestrial paradise, I am informed, belongs to +a noble lord, who is a miserable invalid. Alas, for poor humanity! +neither wealth nor grandeur preserve their possessors from the ills +that flesh is heir to: and this nobleman may, perhaps, envy the lot of +the humblest individual that visits his enchanting domain. + +Bidding adieu to Plymouth, and its delightful environs, I set out +for London on the 11th of September. The desire of home, however, +now urged me forward; so that even the wonders of this wonderful +city could not detain me. Passing over the uninteresting incidents of +steamboat and railroad travelling, I arrived on the 20th of September +at the spot from which I had started twenty-three years before. The +meeting of a mother with an only son, after so long an absence, need +not be described, nor the feelings the well-known scenes of youthful +sports and youthful joys gave rise to. These scenes were still the +same, as far as the hand of Nature was concerned:--there stood the +lofty Benmore, casting his sombre shades over the glassy surface of +Lochba, as in the days of yore; there were also the same heath-covered +hills and wooded dells, well stocked with sheep and cattle; but +the human inhabitants of the woods and dells--where were they?--far +distant from their much-loved native land in the wilds of America, +or toiling for a miserable existence in the crowded cities of the +Lowlands,--a sad change! The bleating of sheep, and lowing of cattle, +for the glad voices of a numerous population, happy and contented with +their lot, loyal to their sovereign, and devotedly attached to their +chiefs! But loyalty and attachment are but fancies, which, in these +utilitarian and trading days, are flat and unprofitable; yet the +aristocratical manufacturers of beef and mutton may live to feel the +truth of the lines of Goldsmith:-- + + "But a bold peasantry, their country's pride, + When once destroyed, can never be supplied." + +I remained about six weeks in my native country, and set out for +London, where I arrived early in November,--"the beginning of the gay +season;" but it appeared to me the reverse. The city was shrouded in +a cloud of condensed smoke and fog, that shut out the light of heaven. +During three whole days the obscurity was so great that the steamboats +were prevented from plying on the Thames, and the gas-lights were +seen glimmering through the windows at noon-day. How applicable is +the description of the Roman historian to the Rome of our day:--"Caput +orbis terrarum, urbis magnificentiam augebant fora, templa, porticas, +aquæductus, theatra, horti denique, et ejus generis alia, ad quæ +vel lecta animus stupet." My time was too limited, however, and the +weather too unfavourable, to admit of my seeing all the "lions;" but +who would think of leaving London without visiting that wonderful +work--the Tunnel,--that lasting monument of the genius of a Brunell, +and of the wealth and enterprise of British merchants! + +A Cockney may well boast of his great city, its wealth, its vast +population, and its magnificent buildings; but with regard to the +Thames, of which he is equally proud,--he that has seen the St. +Lawrence, the Hudson, the McKenzie, and many others, compared to which +the Thames is but a rivulet, may be excused if he cannot view its +not very limpid waters with the same extravagant admiration as the +Londoner, who calls the Serpentine a river, and dignifies a pond of a +few roods in extent with the name of a lake. Yet there is one feature +about the Thames, of which he can scarcely be too proud, and which +is unparalleled perhaps in the world,--the often-noticed "forest of +masts," extending farther than the eye can reach, and suggesting,--not +the silence and solitude of the forests with which I have been +familiar,--but the countless population, the wealth, and the grandeur +of Britain; and the might and the majesty of civilized and industrious +man. + +I took leave of London on the 12th of September, and set out for +Liverpool by railroad, and reached it in six hours. I had sufficient +time to visit its docks, crowded by the ships of every nation; its +warehouses containing the produce of every clime; and, though last, +not least in my estimation, the splendid monument erected to the +memory of Nelson. No monument of stone or brass is necessary to +perpetuate our hero's fame; he lives in the heart of every true +Briton, and will ever live, till British oak and British prowess shall +cease to "rule the waves." + +I embarked on the 15th of December on board a sailing-packet bound +for New York. These vessels are so punctual to the hour of sailing +advertised, that, if the wind proves contrary, and blows fresh, they +are towed out to sea by steamboats. This proved to be our case, and we +kept tacking about in the "chops" of the Channel for six days, when +a fair wind sprung up that soon carried us out of sight of England. +England! great and glorious country, adieu! I shall probably never +see thee more; but in quitting thy white-cliffed shores, I quit not my +ardent attachment and veneration for thee;--and now for _thy_ eldest +daughter beyond the ocean! + +To me, who had spent so much of my lifetime in solitude, the tedium +of the voyage so much complained of was gaiety itself; with three +fellow-passengers besides the captain, the time passed very agreeably. +On board these floating palaces a passenger, in fact, finds everything +that can contribute to his comfort; the best of accommodation, the +best of fare, and the best of attendance; so that there is nothing +wanting but _stability_, to make him fancy himself in a first-class +hotel on shore. + +The weather proved extremely favourable throughout the passage; not an +incident occurred worthy of notice; and on the 17th of January, 1843, +I landed safely at New York, and thus found myself for the first time +in a foreign land; and, since fate has so decreed, among a foreign +people. Yes! they are foreigners, if being called by another name, and +living under a different form of government can make them so; yet in +language, in laws, in religion, and in blood, we are the same. Their +ancestors brought abroad with them the same sentiments of regard +and attachment to their native land as we feel; they rejoiced in the +prosperity of Britain; felt proud of her victories, and grieved at +her misfortunes. Alas, how different the feelings of the present race! +Britain may, in fact, reckon the Americans of the present day her most +inveterate foes; those who are of our own kindred, and whom therefore +we might expect to stand by us in our hour of need, regard us with +more envy and hatred than the "hereditary foes" with whom we have been +for centuries engaged in mortal strife. + +In resisting the arbitrary acts of a misguided government, the +American people only proved themselves possessed of the same noble +spirit that procured for their English progenitors the confirmation of +Magna Charta, and that hurled a tyrant from his throne. The heroes of +the American revolution nobly fought and conquered; they entered the +arena with fearful odds against them; they continued the struggle +under every disadvantage, save the sacredness of their cause; and +finally won the prize for which they contended. Of that prize the +Americans of the present day have undisputed possession; and nothing +can be more certain than that the Britons of the present day have no +wish to deprive them of it--even if they could. What cause, then, can +there be for still cherishing those feelings of animosity which the +unhappy disruption gave rise to? If our fathers quarrelled, cannot +we be friends? But are not the British themselves to blame, in +some measure, for the continuance of these irritated feelings? The +mercenary pens of prejudiced, narrow-minded individuals contribute +daily to add fuel to the flame. Our "Diaries," and our "Notes," +replete with offensive remarks, are, from the cheapness of +publication, disseminated through the length and breadth of the Union, +and are in everybody's hands; and those foolish remarks are supposed +to be the sentiments of the British nation; when they are in fact +only the sentiments of individuals whose opinions are little valued at +home, and ought to be less valued abroad. + +Circumstances taken into consideration, I think it very unfair to +draw comparisons between the social condition of young America, just +become a distinct nation, and of old England, whose empire has lasted +a thousand years. The American people are still too much occupied +with the necessaries of life to devote much of their time to its +elegancies; they are still engaged in the pursuits that ultimately +ensure wealth and real independence. Those results attained, what is +there to prevent the American gentleman from becoming as polished and +accomplished as his cousin in Britain? Can it be supposed, with the +least shadow of reason, that the short period that has elapsed since +the Revolution can have been sufficient to produce that alteration in +the character and manners of the Americans, which our travellers love +to exercise their wit upon? It is impossible. The Americans "guessed," +and "calculated," and "speculated," while they were British subjects, +just as they do now; nor have they learned to chew, and spit, and +smoke tobacco since the 4th of July, 1782. + +As to the peculiar phrases the Americans use in conversation, I am +convinced that their forefathers brought the greater part of them from +Britain, as many of those phrases are to be found in the works of +old English authors still extant. The English language as spoken in +America, is elegance itself, compared to the provincial dialects of +Britain, or even to the vile slang one hears in the streets of London. +This is a fact that every unprejudiced person who has travelled in +America must admit. + +It appears Americans find leisure, of late years, to travel and take +notes, as well as their transatlantic brethren; and, in return for the +polite attentions of our travellers, describe England and Englishmen +in the bitter language of recrimination and retort; and thus the +enmity between the mother and daughter is kept alive and perpetuated. +A publication of this kind fell lately into my hands, entitled, "The +Glory and Shame of England." The writer, said to be a _Christian +minister_, with the malignity of baser minds, sinks and keeps in the +background her "glories," and brings into relief and dwells upon her +shameful parts; representing in the most sombre colours the misery of +the "squalid" population of our cities. Would to God there were not +so much truth in the picture! His reverence, however, seems to have +lost sight of the clergyman; and in gratifying his resentment against +England, and in his zeal to kindle the same unchristian feeling in +the breasts of his countrymen, has not hesitated to sacrifice the +truth;--and he a clergyman, whose office it is to "proclaim peace on +earth, and good-will to men!" + +That there is much misery and wretchedness in England, none can deny; +but will not the well-informed philanthropist consider it rather as +our misfortune than our reproach?--consisting mainly, as that mass +of wretchedness does, of those ills which neither "kings nor laws can +cause or cure." What plan would this philanthropic divine recommend to +remove those evils, which, while he affects to deplore, he yet glories +over? Strip the nobility and land-owners of their possessions--convert +our monarchy into a republic--and the church into a "meetin ouse?" + +These _reforms_ effected, would the people of England be permanently +benefited by them? Supposing the whole arable soil of England were +divided in equal portions among its crowded inhabitants, (passing +by the injustice of robbing the present proprietors of their lawful +possessions--many of them acquired by the same hard labour or skill +by which an artisan gains his weekly wages,) would the equality +of property long continue? Would not the sloth, improvidence, and +imprudence, that ever distinguish a great proportion of mankind; and +the industry, foresight, and ambition that characterise others, soon +bring many of the equal lots into one, thus forming a great estate, +the property of an individual,--when matters would just be at the +point where his reverence found them? And then, of course, would +follow another "equitable adjustment," to relieve the wants of the +poor, whose progenitors had squandered their patrimony. Or, admitting +that the lots remained in possession of the families to whom they were +originally granted, would the produce be equal to the maintenance +of their numerous descendants, when the property became divided and +subdivided into fifty or a hundred shares? + +The present proprietors of the soil of England have, undoubtedly, +large incomes; but what becomes of those incomes? Do they not flow +back into the hands of the merchants, tradesmen, servants, &c.?--the +greater proportion, at least; for the sums expended by our tourists +on the continent form so inconsiderable a portion of those incomes, +as not to be worth mentioning. The same may be said of the _alleged_ +wealth of the clergy; for (admitting the allegation) it all flows back +into the channels whence it issued; and, although neither belonging +to the Church of England, nor approving of her forms of government, I +do not think that her downfall would improve the _temporal_ condition +of the people. If we wish to remain a Christian nation, we cannot +dispense with the services of the clergy; and in order that those +services may be efficient, they must be maintained in independence and +respectability. + +As to a republican form of government, that experiment has been +already tried in England, and failed; it may be tried again with no +better success. The circumstances in which the American people found +themselves after the Revolution, rendered the adoption of republican +institutions both safe and beneficial. They had learned by experience +that the remote position of their country secured their independence +from the ambitious projects of any power in Europe; while they had +nothing to fear from any power in America. Thus situated, any form of +government, consistent with the due maintenance of good order at home, +answered their purpose. The nascent republic might, at the period in +question, have adopted as its motto, "Liberty and Equality," with +the utmost propriety; for all enjoyed equal liberty, and nearly equal +fortunes. Experience, however, shows that liberty and equality cannot +long exist under any form of government; industry procures wealth, +wealth induces ambition, and ambition sighs after distinction and +power. + +While America feels secure from the aggression of her neighbours, +Great Britain is surrounded by powerful states, some of whom afford +her daily proofs of their envy of her greatness and their hatred of +her power; and only want the ability, not the will, to annihilate +both. Those states are, for the most part, ruled by absolute or +despotic governments, who can call fleets and armies into action +without losing a moment in debating the justice or injustice, policy +or impolicy, of their movements. With such neighbours as these, would +the Messenger of Peace recommend the "Britishers" to adopt a form of +government which would necessitate them to debate and consult while +their enemies were acting; and to remit to the people to discuss the +question of peace or war, when they should be enlisting and drilling +them? + +Columbia, happy land! the broad Atlantic intervenes between thee and +the envy or hatred of Europe; thy wide domain, presenting millions of +acres of untenanted land, stands open to the industry and enterprise +of thy citizens. How thankful, then, ought they to be for the +blessings they enjoy, compared with the condition of their brethren +"beyond the water," confined as they are to the narrow limits of their +sea-girt isle, whose soil is no longer sufficient for the support of +its over-crowded inhabitants, and surrounded by hostile nations, who +have long since pronounced the sentence, "_Delenda est Britannia!_" + +"Boz" has already told his countrymen all that is worth telling about +New York, and something more. What the "Dickens" brought him to +the "Five Points?" Did he never visit Wapping with the same views, +whatever they might be? If he did, did he observe nothing in that sink +of filth and wickedness equal to the scenes that shocked him so much +in the outskirts of New York? One just arrived from England finds +little in this city to excite wonder or admiration, unless it be the +extraordinary width of some of the streets. Were those streets kept +clean, and the liberty of the pigs a little restrained, the citizens +might well boast of their superiority to most of the streets of our +British cities; and as their taste improves, everything unsightly will +be removed. + +Nature has done much for New York: she possesses one of the finest +harbours in the world; her climate is pleasant and salubrious; and +one of the noblest rivers of America gives her the command of the +commercial resources of a country which equals in extent nearly all +Europe. New York will undoubtedly become one of the first cities in +the world; in commerce, in wealth, in population, she has advanced at +a prodigious rate within the last fifty years, and her progress is not +likely to be arrested. + +The aqueduct that supplies the town with water, pure, wholesome, and +abundant, is well worth the notice of a stranger. This stupendous work +was executed at a cost of nine millions of dollars, and conveys the +water from a distance of forty miles!--the genius of the engineer +and the power of money overcoming every obstacle. The two great +reservoirs, near the city, present splendid specimens of that kind of +architecture. Happening in company to express my opinion of this work, +as reflecting the highest credit on the enterprise of the citizens, a +gentleman present, evidently an American, in reply to the compliment, +observed, "It is very much to their advantage, no doubt, and it will +also be much to their credit, if they pay the debt they incurred in +constructing it." The fact is, that this and many other public works +in the United States, have been executed by British capital. Would to +heaven that our _sympathising_ friends, who are so jealous in regard +to the honour of America, where a few thousand acres of worthless land +are concerned, were equally jealous in regard to it when, under the +newly-invented name of _repudiation_, the honour of their country is +tarnished by a vast system of unblushing robbery! Would to heaven that +their _sympathies_ were extended to the thousands who are involved in +misery and ruin by this audacious system of national perfidy! + +If the art or ingenuity of the good citizens of New York has not +produced very many objects worthy of admiration, the faces of their +lovely fair make ample amends for it. Among the crowds of charmers +who throng the fashionable promenade of Broadway, scarcely an ordinary +face is to be seen. I, in fact, saw more pretty faces there in one +hour than in all my tour in Britain. + +I landed in New York without any prejudice against the Americans, and +I now take leave of their commercial capital with feelings of esteem +and regret. In the society I frequented I neither saw nor heard +anything unworthy of, or unbecoming the descendants of Britons. Some +little peculiarities, the natural result of circumstances, I certainly +noticed; some differences also in their social life; but I shall leave +it to those who are disposed to find fault to criticise these matters. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER--THE + PASSENGERS--ARRIVAL AT ALBANY--JOURNEY TO MONTREAL. + + +The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted by ice, I +determined on proceeding to Albany by steamboat, in preference to the +railroad, with the view of seeing the far-famed scenery of the country +through which the river flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of +February. We had not proceeded far, however, when we found the face of +the country covered with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated +from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost. + +Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold became so severe as we +ascended, that the deck was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the +stove was considered the best. The passengers being now all crowded +below, the group presented a complete epitome of American society: +here were members of the legislature proceeding to the capital on +parliamentary duty; here also were congregated in the same cabin, +merchants, mechanics, and farmers, messing at the same board, and at +first mixed up promiscuously together. They did not, however, long +continue so; the more respectable part, separating from the crowd, +occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied the other. Thus +the homogeneous ingredients of the mass having united, no further +mixture took place during the passage. + +It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally be observed +stepping beyond the ideal boundary, and sitting down among the +plebeians, probably some of his constituents,--would call for a pipe, +and, stretching out his legs, commence to puff, spit, and debate, like +one of themselves; and having by these means convinced them that he +still considered them as his _equals_, would retire again _ad suos_. + +The Americans are accused by Europeans of being cold and reserved +towards strangers; for my part, I found them sociable and +communicative in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked on +board the steamboat I found myself quite at home. I was much pleased +to observe the rational manner in which the passengers amused +themselves. Little groups were formed, where religion, politics and +business matters were discussed with excellent sense and judgment. +These seemed to be the common topics of discourse in both ends of the +cabin. I frequented both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in +either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush to the table; such a +scene as the latter is only to be seen in America. + +The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:-- + +"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!" + +Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, elbowing, until they +take their seats. I was, however, particularly struck with the +attention shown to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and +the total absence of impure or profane expressions in conversation. +How unlike the scenes one witnesses on board our steamboats in +Britain, where the meaner sort of passengers seem to travel on purpose +to indulge in drinking! + +I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress having been much +retarded by the quantity of ice drifting in the river. Finding that +the mail was to start for Canada in the course of the night, I decided +on going with it, without seeing the capital of New York. Owing to the +mildness of the season up to the present time, the roads were in +the worst possible condition, and the motion of the carriage passing +rapidly over the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently frozen +solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful. + +We continued, however, to jolt on night and day, without rest, save +during the short time necessary for changing or baiting cattle. The +roads became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A considerable +quantity of snow had fallen lately, which rendered travelling +in a wheeled carriage not only disagreeable in the extreme, but +also dangerous. We broke down several times, but without serious +inconvenience. On one of these occasions we picked ourselves up +opposite a farm house, in which we took shelter while the driver was +putting matters to rights. It being yet early, the inmates were still +in bed; we nevertheless found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth, +and seated ourselves around it. + +All of a sudden the door of a small apartment flew open, and a large +black cat sprang in amongst us. + +"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said one of the passengers, +addressing himself to me. "What do you think of the ingenuity of our +Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we should have had a page or +two more to his notes; and I am sure it would have proved at least as +interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's conversation with his +cattle." + +"That's a fact," said I. + +After being jolted and pitched about until every bone in my body +ached again, I reached St. John's on the 12th; and the snow being now +sufficiently deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder +of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + EMBARK FOR THE NORTH--PASSENGERS ARRIVE AT FORT + WILLIAM--DESPATCH FROM GOVERNOR--APPOINTED TO MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ADVENTURE ON GREAT SLAVE + LAKE--ARRIVE AT FORT SIMPSON--PRODUCTIONS OF THE POST. + + +I spent the remainder of the winter enjoying the good things of this +life, and on the 28th of April received orders to proceed to Lachine, +preparatory to embarking for the north. I embarked on the 29th, but +the crews were so intoxicated that we were compelled to land on an +island near by, to allow them to recover from the effects of their +carousals. + +I was joined here by Captain Stalk of the 71st, and Lieutenant Lefroy +of the Artillery; the former accompanying us on a jaunt of pleasure, +the latter on a scientific expedition. There were also four junior +clerks in the Company's service. Our brigade consisted of three large +canoes manned by about fifty Canadians, and Iroquois Indians. + +We were detained in our insular encampment by stress of weather until +the 2d of May, when we set out. Our crews being now perfectly sober, +plied their paddles with the utmost good-will, singing and whooping, +apparently delighted with their situation. Ignorance here was bliss; +they little dreamed of the life that awaited them. I may here premise, +that as I have already narrated the particulars of a similar voyage, +I shall pass on to the different stages of our route without noticing +the uninteresting incidents of our daily progress. + +We arrived at Fort William on the 28th of May, where we exchanged our +large Montreal canoes for smaller. Here Captain S. remained to await +his passage back to Canada; not much disposed to try such a jaunt +of pleasure again, I suspect,--and Lieutenant L., taking a canoe for +himself with a view of prosecuting his scientific researches more at +leisure than our go-a-head mode of travelling admitted, left us also. +We were detained a day at Fort William, repairing canoes, arranging +crews, &c., and on the 30th, I took leave of my excellent _compagnons +de voyage_ with sincere regret. + +On descending Lac la Pluie River, we landed at an extensive Sauteux +camp, where we found a Protestant (Methodist) Missionary, with a +native interpreter as his only companion. I learned with much regret, +that this gentleman's exertions in his vocation had been attended with +little or no success, although he had been two years engaged in it; +while the Romish priests, in the same space of time, had converted +numbers. + +The natives were occupied with the sturgeon fishing, and had +apparently been tolerably successful. Having procured a supply for the +use of our crews by barter, we set off, and without experiencing any +accident, reached Bas de la Rivière on the 13th of June, where I found +letters from the Governor, directing me to proceed with all possible +speed to York Factory. + +Having learned on my way coming up, that one of the gentlemen in +McKenzie's River district had resigned, and would quit the country +this year,--I felt convinced I should be appointed his successor; that +being one of the most wretched parts of the Indian country, it was +quite a matter of course that I should be sent thither. Knowing from +dear-bought experience, however, that my constitution could no +longer bear the hardships and privations to which I had been so long +subjected, I wrote the Governor on the subject, and requested that +he would grant me an appointment where I might enjoy some degree of +comfort--a favour which I humbly conceived my former services entitled +me to--otherwise I should retire from the service. We had a fine +passage across Lake Winnipeg, and I landed at Norway House with all my +party safe and sound, on the 18th of June. I remained there till the +21st, and then set out for York Factory, where I had been about ten +days, when an express arrived from Norway House with the Governor's +final orders to me, and also his reply to my last communication, which +I here insert at full length. + +"Red River Settlement, "_June_ 22, 1843. + +"DEAR SIR, + +"My eyes are so completely worn out, that I cannot give you a single +private line under my own hand. I have perused with attention your +private letter of the 14th instant, and should have been glad had it +been in my power to have met your wishes in regard to an appointment; +but from the few commissioned gentlemen disposable this season, it was +quite impossible to consult wishes. You were, therefore, long before +receipt of your letter, appointed to McKenzie's River. That is now one +of the finest fields we have for extension of trade, and I count much +on your activity for promoting our views in that quarter. But while +directing your attention to the extension of _your district_, you must +likewise use your best endeavours to curtail the indents, as they have +of late been on a most alarming scale, comprehending nearly as many +articles as appear in our Columbia requisition; if you look on my +notes on the last requisition, you will find that I have been under +the necessity of making some further curtailments. I am sorry the +idea of retiring has entered your mind, as I was in hopes we could +count upon some efficient services out of you while still young and +vigorous. + +"The Company have of late declined making any purchases of retired +interests; it would be therefore quite unnecessary to make any +application on that head, as they have lost money by all the recent +purchases they have made in that way. + +"I am at the Lower Fort, where Mr. Ross came in on me very +unexpectedly, just as we were preparing to get on horseback for the +upper part of the settlement, so that I am much pressed for time, +which will account for the brevity of this communication. + +"Pray let me hear from you in Canada by the last canoes, as I shall +not then have taken my departure from Montreal. + +"I remain, &c. &c. + +(Signed) "GEORGE SIMPSON." + +Judging, from the instructions contained in the above communication, +that I was appointed to the charge of the district, I made up my mind +to try how far my health could endure the hardships of which I already +had had more than my share; and without a moment's delay, set out for +Norway House in a light canoe, where I arrived on the 16th of July. +My friend Mr. C---- arrived with his returns from Athabasca a few +days afterwards, and his arrangements being completed on the 24th, I +embarked as a passenger with him. + +We reached the small river Mithai on the 4th of September, when we +found the water so low as barely to admit of the passage of the +light boats. It happened most fortunately that there were a number of +Chippewayan Indians encamped on the spot at the time, else we should +have been completely at a nonplus. The crews, good souls! hired +those Indians at their own expense, to carry the greater part of the +property in their small canoes to the upper part of the river. At the +portage we found a number of half-breeds, with their horses, from +the Saskatchewan, awaiting our arrival, in the expectation of being +employed to transport the goods. Nor were they disappointed; sooner +than undergo the harassing toil of carrying the outfit across a +portage of twelve miles, the men hired the half-breeds, parting with +their most valuable articles in payment. + +Several propositions have been made, of late years, to the Governor, +for sparing the men the inhuman labour of this portage, which they +must either perform, or sacrifice a considerable part of their paltry +wages to avoid it. It was suggested, for instance, that a sufficient +number of horses should be stationed at a certain locality, with the +requisite conveniences, near the portage, and a couple of men hired +on purpose to take care of them, whose wages the winterers should +pay out of their own pockets, which they readily assented to; as the +transport, by this arrangement, would only cost them one-third of what +it cost them to employ the half-breeds. His Excellency, however, was +quite "sick" of the Portage La Loche subject; he knew as much about it +as anybody, and felt quite assured that it was the easiest part of the +men's duties throughout the voyage! While canoes were used, the duty +at Portage la Loche was not nearly so severe as at present; a canoe +carried only twenty-five pieces, and was manned by six men; a boat's +crew consists only of seven men, while the cargo consists of from +sixty to seventy pieces. + +The descent of the Clear Water and Athabasca rivers was effected +without any accident, and we arrived at Athabasca on the 16th of +September; whence I set out again, after a few days' delay, for Fort +Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, where I was detained by stress of +weather until the 29th. + +I left the post late in the evening, and intended to encamp on an +island at a convenient distance; but the season being far advanced, I +felt anxious to proceed, and inquired of my pilot whether he thought +there would be any risk in travelling all night? "Not the least," was +the reply; and we rowed on accordingly till morning; when lo! the only +objects to be seen were sea and sky. In vain we strained the organs +of vision to discover land; there we were, as if in the midst of the +ocean, surrounded on all sides by the unbroken circle of the horizon. +I do not know that I ever felt more seriously alarmed than at this +moment, thus to find myself exposed on an unknown sea, as it might +well be termed, in an open boat, and at such an advanced period of +the season, without any means of ascertaining what course to steer for +land. It would appear our steersman had been napping at the helm in +the course of the night, and thus allowed the boat to deviate from her +course without noticing it; hence the awkwardness and even the danger +of our present situation. + +While considering with myself what was best to be done, a fine breeze +sprang up; I ordered the sail to be hoisted immediately, determined on +going before it until we made land, no matter where. Fortunately the +wind continued steady all day, and we at length reached the land a +little after sunset, having run at least forty miles. We put ashore +at the first convenient landing we could find, and encamped for the +night. Having consulted a map I had with me, and observing by the sun +the direction in which we had crossed the lake, (for we had actually +crossed it at its greatest width,) I could make out pretty clearly +that we had turned our backs to our true course! We had, however, a +good supply of provisions, and a voyageur is never discouraged while +he has the provender before him. Having now learned, to my cost, what +confidence my pilot was entitled to, I determined on keeping land in +view for the future. + +We embarked early next morning, and, after a tedious and laborious +passage of seven days, arrived at Big Island fishery at the outlet of +the Lake on the 8th of October, where I found a boat ready to start +with a cargo of fish, in which I embarked; and landing finally at Fort +Simpson on the 16th, my long trip of five months _per mare et terram_, +was brought to a close; and high time it should, for the weather was +become excessively cold, and the ice was forming along the beach. + +I was much grieved to find Mr. Lewis confined to bed in consequence of +a shocking accident he had lately met with, his right hand being blown +off by the accidental discharge of his fowling-piece. + +Having perused the governor's official letter to Mr. Lewis, I found +the following paragraph in it relating to myself:--"On retiring from +the district next season, you will be pleased to invest Mr. McLean +with the management, handing to that gentleman all correspondence, +papers, &c., connected with the public business." This paragraph, +taken in conjunction with the instructions I had previously received, +confirmed both Mr. L. and myself in the opinion that I was to succeed +him in the charge; and we took our measures accordingly. + +I was very agreeably surprised to find that the high latitude of this +locality (61° north) did not prevent agricultural operations from +being carried on with success. Although the season had been rather +unfavourable, the farm yielded four hundred bushels of potatoes, +and upwards of one hundred bushels of barley; the barnyard, with its +stacks of barley and hay, and the number of horned cattle around it, +had quite the air of a farm standing in the "old country." It is to be +regretted that the gentlemen here should have paid so little attention +to the cultivation of the soil in former times, as the produce +would, ere now, not only have contributed to the support of the +establishment, but have afforded assistance to the natives in years of +scarcity. + +For these three years past the distress of the natives in this +quarter has been without parallel; several hundreds having perished of +want--in some instances, even at the gates of the trading post, whose +inmates, far from having it in their power to relieve others, required +relief themselves. Here, as in most other parts of the wooded country, +rabbits form the principal subsistence of the natives, and when they +fail, starvation is the sure and inevitable result; but no former +period has been so productive of distress, to so fearful an extent, as +the present. With the produce of the farm, Mr. L. was enabled to save +the lives of all those who resorted to his own post; but at Forts Good +Hope, Norman, and De Liard, no assistance could be given; as those +posts, like most others in the Indian country, depend entirely on +the means the country affords in fish, flesh, and fowl, for their +subsistence. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + STATEMENTS IN THE EDINBURGH CABINET LIBRARY--ALLEGED + KINDNESS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY TO THE INDIANS--AND + GENEROSITY--SUPPORT OF MISSIONARIES--SUPPORT + WITHDRAWN--PREFERENCE OF ROMAN CATHOLICS--THE NORTH-WEST + COMPANY--CONDUCT OF A BRITISH PEER--RIVALRY OF THE + COMPANIES--COALITION--CHARGES AGAINST THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY + REFUTED. + + +A volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, in which the Company's +territories are described, came lately into my hands. It is there +remarked, that "the Company's posts serve as hospitals, to which +the Indians resort during sickness, and are supplied with food and +medicine; that when winter arrives, the diseased and infirm are +frequently left there; that the Company have made the most laudable +efforts to instruct and civilize them, employing, at a great expense, +Missionaries and Teachers," &c. + +I am well aware that the author of this valuable production took it +for granted that the information he had obtained, relative to our +treatment of the Indians, and other matters, was correct, or he would +not have permitted it to go forth to the world under the authority +and sanction of his name. But without intending any disrespect to the +author, I take leave to state that the above quotations have not the +slightest foundation in fact. Our posts serve as hospitals! I have now +passed twenty-four years of my life-time in the country; I have served +in every quarter of it; and I own that I have never yet known a single +instance of an Indian being retained at any inland post for medical +treatment. The knowledge the natives possess of the medicinal virtues +of roots and herbs, is generally equal to the cure of all their +ailments; and we are, in fact, more frequently indebted to them, than +they to us, for medical advice. I may mention, however, by way of +exception to the general rule, that the dépôts along the coast are +well supplied with medicines, and that there are medical men there who +administer them to the natives when they apply for them. + +In the interior we are allowed to doctor ourselves as we best can. +What with the salubrity of the climate, and our abstemious fare, we +are enabled, with the aid of a little Turlington balsam, and a dose +of salts, perhaps, to overcome all our ailments. Most of us also use +the lancet, and can even "spread a plaster, or give a glister," when +necessary; but the Indians seldom trouble us. + +As to the instruction the natives receive from us, I am at a loss to +know what it is, where imparted, and by whom given. "A tale I could, +unfold!" But let it pass: certain it is, that neither our example nor +our precept has had the effect of improving the morals or principles +of the natives;--they are neither more enlightened, nor more +civilized, by our endeavours, than if we had never appeared among +them. The native interpreters even grow old in our service as ignorant +of Christianity as the rudest savages who have never seen the face of +a white man. + +The Church Missionary Society has had two Missionaries stationed at +Red River settlement for some years past, one of whom is designated +the Company's Chaplain, and is allowed 100l. per annum; the Roman +Catholic bishop, too, receives his 100l., and doubtless understands, +without any inspiration, the Company's policy in granting the annuity. +The gentleman who conducts the academy has also 100l. a-year; thus we +have 300l., forming the sum total of the "great expenses" the Company +are at. It is quite true there are thirteen schools at Red River; +there are also eighteen windmills, and the Company furnishes just as +much wind for the mills as funds for the support of the schools or +teachers. Other teachers than those above specified I have neither +seen nor heard of. + +Some years ago five Missionaries were sent out to the Hudson's Bay +territory by the Wesleyan Missionary Society. After having laboured +for some time in the territory, by a decision of the Council the rank +of commissioned gentleman, together with the usual allowances attached +to that rank, was conferred on them. + +The Missionaries had every reason to be grateful for these acts of +kindness, and they both felt and expressed their gratitude. Their +object, however, in coming to the country was to serve God, not the +Hudson's Bay Company; and they proceeded to discharge their duty in +the manner their conscience approved, instructing and enlightening +the natives with the zeal and perseverance for which their sect is +so eminently distinguished. The good fruits were soon apparent; in +some parts of the country successful attempts were made to collect +the natives: they were taught to cultivate the soil, to husband +their produce, so as to render them less dependent on fortuitous +circumstances for a living; they were taught to read and write, and to +worship God "in spirit and in truth," and numbers "were daily added +to the Church;" when, lo! it was discovered that the time devoted +to religious exercises, and other duties arising out of the altered +circumstances of the converts, was so much time lost to the fur-hunt; +and from the moment this discovery was made, no further encouragement +was given to the innovators. Their labours were strictly confined to +the stations they originally occupied, and every obstacle was thrown +in the way of extending their missions. Even after some of them +had travelled into the remotest parts, and opened up an amicable +intercourse with the natives, they were told that collecting the +Indians into villages was a measure not to be thought of, as the +habitual indolence of the natives precluded the idea of their being +induced to cultivate the soil; that even if they were so inclined, the +country presented few localities fit for the purpose, &c. + +Notwithstanding the high authority whence these allegations emanated, +I think I can show the reader that they are in a great measure without +foundation. + +Here (in lat. 61° north)[2] we raise crops of barley and potatoes--the +former in abundance every year,--the latter, however, are sometimes +cut off by the frosts; but this is no more than happens in Canada, +and many parts of the United States. The fact is, that there are many +favourable situations for agriculture to be found in every district of +the Company's territories, except perhaps one or two on the shores of +Hudson's Bay. The banks of the Athabasca, Peace, Slave, and McKenzie +rivers present many localities fit for farming operations; and in the +more southern districts they are, of course, far more frequent. + +[Footnote 2: On the banks of the McKenzie River.] + +Had the Protestant ministers been allowed a free scope, and the +encouragement they at first received been continued, they would ere +now have had Missions established in many districts; and there can +hardly be a doubt that they would have succeeded here, as elsewhere, +in overcoming the natural sloth of the natives. Their good intentions, +however, have been frustrated, and they have now the additional +mortification of finding themselves supplanted by Romish priests, who, +no later than last year, were allowed a free passage in the Company's +craft, even to a district where a Protestant Missionary had been +settled for several years previously, and had made considerable +progress in converting the natives. Not only was he allowed a passage +to the district, but he was lodged and entertained in the Company's +establishment. + +The consequences of this strange procedure are obvious: the poor +ignorant natives, hearing such conflicting doctrines, are at a loss +what to think or what to believe; and, naturally enough, conclude that +both are alike impostors, and therefore in many cases decline their +instructions. It must be acknowledged, however, that the Romish priest +is often more successful than the Protestant missionary, and that +for obvious reasons. With the former, the Indian needs only profess +a desire to become a Christian, and he is forthwith baptized; whereas +with the latter, a probationary course--a trial of the proselyte's +sincerity--is deemed indispensable. The peculiar dress, moreover, +of the Romish ministers, and their imposing ritual, make a great +impression on the senses of a barbarous people. + +"_He_ indeed," say the Indians, when speaking of the priest, "he +indeed looks like a great 'man of medicine;' but these others are just +like our traders; we can see no difference." + +The fact, too, need not be disguised, that we ourselves find the +priests far more accommodating than these meddling parsons. The +priests, for instance, allow us to amuse ourselves in any manner we +think fit, week-day or Sunday; and far from finding fault, ten to +one if they don't join in the sport; the Protestant minister, on +the contrary, never allows a violation of the sacred day to pass +unnoticed, nor fails to warn the delinquent of the consequences. +The priest connives at the Indian's hunting on Sunday--the minister +strictly forbids it: the priests are single--the ministers are +generally married, and their maintenance of course involves a far +heavier expense. Considering these things, no reasonable person can +surely find fault with us for preferring those who allow us to put +what construction we please on the moral law, and at the same time +oppose no obstacles to the advancement of our temporal interests. + +And here I cannot but express my regret that our Protestant churches +should have so long neglected the cultivation of a field that promised +such rich harvests as the interior of America. The superstitions +of the aborigines scattered through the Hudson's Bay Company's +territories are so gross, and so inconsistent with unsophisticated +common sense; and their prejudices in favour of them have been so much +shaken by their intercourse with the gentlemen of the trading posts +and the other Europeans, whom they are accustomed to look up to as +beings of a superior race, that there could be but little difficulty +in removing what _remains_ of these prejudices; and thus one of the +greatest obstacles to the success of a Missionary in other parts of +the heathen world, can scarcely be said to exist among them. + +The Church of England, it is true, has done a little, but she might +have done more--much more. Had the Missionaries at Red River exerted +themselves, from the time of their first arrival in the country, in +educating _natives_ as Missionaries, and sent them forth to preach +the Word, the pure doctrines of Christianity would, ere now, have been +widely disseminated through the land. But nothing of this kind has +been attempted: nor could it be attempted--now that I think of it--the +laying on of "the hands of a Bishop" being indispensable. + +As to the diseased and infirm being frequently left at our posts in +winter, all I can say is, that I have never seen any such at any +of the posts I wintered at, or at any of the posts I visited; nor +is it likely that, when we ourselves depend on the natives for a +considerable part of our subsistence, we can do much to support them. +We support neither old nor young, diseased nor infirm--that is the +truth. + +In the work above quoted I find the following paragraph relating to +the North-West Company. + +"Although the rivalry of the North-West Company had the effect of +inspiriting and extending the trade; it was carried by them in many +respects beyond the legitimate limits, not scrupling at open violence +and bloodshed, in which Europeans and natives were alike sufferers." + +The controversy between those rival companies has long since been +forgotten; but the subject being again obtruded on the public notice, +evidently in the spirit of prejudice, there can be nothing improper, I +presume, in representing matters in their true and proper light. Many +of the individuals thus calumniated are still alive and settled in the +civilized world, where they are esteemed for qualities diametrically +opposite to those ascribed to them by their slanderer. + +It is well known that the chief advantages the Hudson's Bay Company +now possess, they owe to the adventurous North-West traders; by these +traders the whole interior of the savage wilds was first explored; by +them the water communications were first discovered and opened up +to commercial enterprise; by them the first trading posts were +established in the interior; by them the natives were first reconciled +to the whites; and by them the trade was first reduced to the regular +system which the Hudson's Bay Company still follows. When all this +had been done by the North-West Company, and they had begun to +reap the reward of their toils, and hardships, and dangers, and +expenditure--then did the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, led on by +a British peer, step forward and claim, as British subjects, an equal +right to share the trade. + +Their _noble_ leader appeared first in Montreal in the guise of a +traveller, where he was received by the North-Westers with open arms, +was kindly and hospitably entertained by them, his minutest inquiries +regarding their system of trade were candidly and freely answered; +and the information thus obtained in the character of a traveller, +a guest, and a friend, he forthwith proceeded to use to effect +their ruin. Had, however, the North-West Company continued true to +themselves, all his arts and attempts would have failed. Had not +dissension arisen in the ranks, it is clear that _they_--not +the Hudson's Bay Company--would have granted the capitulation. +Unfortunately for themselves, however, the partners in the interior, +seeing the contest continue so long, and the expenses swallow up all +the profits, despaired of the success that was almost within their +grasp, and commencing a correspondence among themselves, finally +determined on opening a negotiation with their rivals. Two of their +number were accordingly sent home, invested with full powers to +act for the general interest. Those gentlemen arrived just as the +Directors of the North-West Company in London were about to conclude +a most advantageous treaty--a few days more, and the articles had been +ratified by the signatures of both parties. At this conjuncture the +Delegates arrived, and instead of first communicating with their own +Directors, went straight to the Hudson's Bay House, and presented +their credentials. The Hudson's Bay Company saw their advantage, and +instead of receiving, now dictated the terms; and thus the name of the +North-West Company was merged in that of its rival, and the Canadian +people were deprived of all interest in that trade which owed its +origin to the courage and enterprise of their forefathers. + +Such were the relative circumstances of the Hudson's Bay and +North-West Companies. From 1674 to 1813 the Hudson's Bay Company +slumbered at its posts along the shores of Hudson's Bay, never +attempting to penetrate beyond the banks of the Saskatchewan, until +the North-Westers had led and cleared the way; and in this manner +began their rivalry. That collisions should follow, marked by violence +and outrage, need not be wondered at. But violence and outrage were +not confined to one side; both parties exceeded the limits prescribed +by law. Yet while stern justice alike condemns both, which is the more +guilty party? or which has the greater claims on our sympathy? + +As to the North-West Company being guilty of the blood of innocent +Indians,--the charge is as false as it is invidious. When the blood +of their servants was shed without cause or provocation, as frequently +happened when they first encountered the fierce savage, they punished +the aggressors as the law of God allows, demanding "blood for blood." +But while the author (or rather his informant, whose _ribbon_ I +can plainly distinguish, although he strikes in the dark) so freely +censures the North-West Company for avenging the murder of their +people, does he mean to insinuate that nothing of the kind is done +under the _humane_ and _gentle_ rule of the Hudson's Bay Company? +What became of the Hannah Bay murderers? They were conveyed to Moose +Factory, bound hand and foot, and there shot down by the orders of +the Chief Factor. Did the murders committed by the natives at New +Caledonia, Thompson's River, and the Columbia, pass unavenged? No! the +penalty was fully paid in blood for blood. + +But since the author's informant seems disposed to "rake up the +smouldering embers" of days bygone, I shall take the liberty of +telling him of a tragedy that was enacted at the ancient date of +1836-7. In that winter, a party of men, led by two clerks, was sent +to look for some horses that were grazing at a considerable distance +from the post. As they approached the spot they perceived a band of +Assineboine Indians, eight in number (if I remember aright), on an +adjacent hill, who immediately joined them, and, delivering up their +arms, encamped with them for the night. Next morning a _court martial_ +was held by the two clerks and some of the men, to determine the +punishment due to the Indians for having been found near the company's +horses, with the _supposed_ intention of carrying them off. What was +the decision of this mock court martial? I shudder to relate, that the +whole band, after having given up their arms, and partaken of their +hospitality, were condemned to death, and the sentence carried into +execution on the spot,--all were butchered in cold blood! + +With the exception of the massacre of the Indians in McKenzie's River +district in 1835, no such deed of blood had been heard of in the +country. Yet our author's _impartial_ informant, perfectly acquainted +as he was with all the circumstances of the case, and ready enough +as he is to trumpet to the world the alleged crimes of the North-West +Company, takes no notice of it! It may be said that the Company are +not answerable for crimes committed by their servants without their +knowledge. True; but when they are made fully acquainted with those +misdeeds, and allow the perpetrators to escape with impunity, the +guilt is transferred to their own head; "invitat culpam qui peccatum +præterit." The proceedings of this court-martial were reported at +head-quarters, and the punishment awarded to these murderers was--a +reprimand! After this, what protection, or generosity, or justice, can +the Indians he said to receive from the Hudson's Bay Company? + +The Indians to this day talk of their Northwest "fathers" with regret. +"Our old traders, our fathers, did not serve us so," is a remark +I have frequently heard in every part of the country where the +North-West Company had established posts. Had their rule been +distinguished by oppression or injustice, the natives would rather +have expressed their satisfaction at its suppression; had it been +tyrannical or oppressive, it would not have been long tolerated. The +natives in those times were numerous and warlike; the trading-posts +were isolated and far apart; and in the summer season, when the +managers proceeded to the dépôts, with the greater part of their +people, were entirely at the mercy of the natives, who would not have +failed to take advantage of such opportunities to avenge their wrongs, +had they suffered any. The posts, in fact, were left entirely to their +protection, and depended on them for support during the absence of the +traders, who, on their return in autumn, found themselves surrounded +by hundreds of rejoicing Indians, greeting their "fathers" with every +manifestation of delight;--he who had not a gun to fire strained his +lungs with shouting. + +The native population has decreased at an extraordinary rate since +those times. I do not mean to affirm that this decrease arises from +the Hudson's Bay Company's treatment of them; but, from whatever cause +arising, it is quite certain they have greatly decreased. Neither can +it be denied, that the natives are no longer the manly, independent +race they formerly were. On the contrary, we now find them gloomy and +dispirited, unhappy and discontented. + +As to our vaunted "generosity" to the natives, I am at a loss to know +in what it consists. When a band of Indians arrive at a trading post, +each individual is presented with a few inches of tobacco; here (at +Fort Simpson) in winter we add a fish to each. After their furs are +traded, a few flints, awls, and hooks, and a trifle of ammunition is +given them, in proportion to their hunts, and then--"Va-t-en." This is +about the average amount of "generosity" they receive throughout the +country; varied, however, by the differences of disposition observable +in the Hudson's Bay Company's traders, as among all other mortals. +Some of us would even withhold the awls and hooks, if we could; +others, at the risk of being "hauled up" for extravagance, would add +another hook to the number. + +Were the Company's standing rules and regulations acted upon, we might +perhaps have some title to the generosity we boast of. In these rules +we are directed to supply _poor_ Indians with ammunition and fishing +tackle, gratis. This looks very well on paper; but are we allowed the +means of bestowing these gratuities? Certainly not.[3] Our outfits, +in many cases, are barely sufficient to meet the exigencies of the +trade; they are continually reduced in proportion to the decrease in +the returns; and the strictest economy is not only recommended, but +enforced. On the due fulfilment of these commands our prospects in +the service depend; and few indeed will think of violating them, or of +sacrificing their own interests to benefit Indians. I repeat that, far +from having it in our power to bestow anything gratuitously, we are +happy when allowed sufficient means to barter for the furs the Indians +bring us. + +[Footnote 3: When the Israelites were ordered to provide straw for +their bricks, the material _could_ be procured in Egypt, although at +the expense of great additional toil;--not so the supplies for the +Indian trade; in the event of a deficiency, neither money nor labour +can procure them.] + +The Company also make it appear by their standing rules, that we are +directed to instruct the children, to teach the servants, &c.; but +where are the means of doing so? A few books, I have been told, were +sent out for this purpose, after the coalition; what became of them +I know not. I never saw any. The history of commercial rule is well +known to the world; the object of that rule, wherever established, or +by whomsoever exercised, is gain. In our intercourse with the natives +of America no other object is discernible, no other object is thought +of, no other object is allowed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + ARRIVAL OF MR. LEFROY--VOYAGE TO THE LOWER POSTS OF THE + MACKENZIE--AVALANCHE--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--VOYAGE + TO PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ARBITRARY AND UNJUST CONDUCT OF THE + GOVERNOR--DESPOTISM--MY REPLY TO THE GOVERNOR. + + +In the early part of this winter several Indians came in, complaining +that they were starving for want of food; and their emaciated forms +proved that they did not complain without cause. Our means, however, +were too limited to afford them any effectual relief. We were glad to +learn afterwards, that although many suffered, none died from actual +want; and the rabbits soon afterwards appearing in greater numbers +than had been seen for years past, relief was obtained. + +Towards the latter end of March, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr. +Lefroy. This gentleman seems equal to all the hardships and privations +of a voyageur's life, having performed the journey from Athabasca +hither, a distance of at least six hundred miles, on snow-shoes, +without appearing to have suffered any inconvenience from it; thus +proving himself the ablest _mangeur de lard_ we have had in the +country for a number of years: there are many of our old winterers +who would have been glad to excuse themselves if required to undertake +such a journey. + +The winter passed without any remarkable occurrence; and on the +breaking up of the river, I set off for the lower posts, on the 23d +of May, accompanied by Mr. Lefroy, whose zeal for scientific discovery +neither cold, nor hunger, nor fatigue, seems to depress. We arrived +at Fort Norman on the 27th of May; and after a few hours' delay, +embarked, proceeding down stream, night and day. + +We reached Fort Good Hope on the 29th, late in the evening; but +evening, morning, midnight, and noon-day, are much the same here: I +wrote at midnight by the clear light of heaven. The scientific reader +need not be informed, that within the arctic circle the sun is but a +very short time beneath the horizon, during the summer solstice. The +people of Fort Good Hope see him rising and setting behind the same +hill; and in clear weather his rays shed a light above the horizon +even after he is set; while during the winter solstice the same hill +nearly conceals him from view. Yet the gentleman in charge of this +post has passed two years without an inch of candle to light himself +to bed; and his predecessor did the same; so that he has no reason to +complain. + +On our way down we observed a land-slip, or avalanche of earth, that +had just tumbled into the river. Mr. Lefroy examined the bank whence +it had been detached, and found, by measurement, that the frozen +ground was forty-six feet in depth! + +Our short sojourn at Fort Good Hope was rendered very unpleasant by +the dismal weather; it continued snowing the whole time we remained. +The storm abating, we embarked at an early hour, on the 31st of May, +and had not proceeded above a few leagues, when a fair breeze sprang +up, greatly to the satisfaction of all, but especially of the poor +fellows whose toil it relieved. It continued increasing; reef after +reef was taken in, till our sheet was finally reduced to a few feet +in depth; yet so furious was the gale that we ascended the strongest +current with nearly the same velocity we had descended; while the +snow fell so thick, and the spray from the river was driven about +so violently by the wind, that we could scarce see our way, and only +escaped being dashed against the beach by keeping in the centre of the +stream. It was also extremely cold; so that our situation in an open +boat was not the most enviable. + +We arrived at Fort Norman on the 2d of June, about five, A.M., +and remained until eleven, A.M., when we embarked, the gale still +continuing with unabated violence. Immediately after leaving the Fort +the gale carried away our mast; fortunate it was for us that it gave +way, else the boat must have capsized. We soon got another mast from +the Fort, and sped on our way night and day, if it can be said there +is any night here, when the light is so powerful as to throw the stars +into the shade. Without experiencing much change in wind or weather, +we arrived at Fort Simpson on the 8th of June; having thus performed +a voyage of about 1,400 miles (going and coming) in eleven days, +including stoppages. I found Mr. Lewis so far recovered from the +effects of his wound as to be able to take the same active part in the +management of affairs as formerly. + +The returns from the different posts being now received, we found them +to amount to upwards of 15,000l. in value, according to the tariff +of last year. Everything being ready for our departure, we left +Fort Simpson on the 15th of June, Mr. Lefroy embarking with us. +We proceeded to Great Slave Lake without interruption, the weather +extremely fine. Within a day's rowing of Fort Resolution we +encountered a field of ice that arrested our progress, till a change +of wind carried it out to sea. + +The moment a passage opened we observed a large canoe making for our +encampment. It proved to be Mr. Lefroy's, which he had left with the +most of his people at Athabasca. Mr. Lefroy embarked in his own +craft, and we proceeded to Fort Resolution in company; and as he had +determined on following a different route to Athabasca, we parted +here, most probably never to meet again in this life. Few gentlemen +ever visited this country who acquired so general esteem as Mr. +Lefroy; his gentlemanly bearing and affable manners endeared him to +us all. We arrived at Athabasca on the 5th of July, and at Portage La +Loche on the 25th, where we found an increased number of half-breeds +waiting our arrival. + +The brigade from York Factory arrived with the outfit on the 2d of +August, and we exchanged cargoes with the utmost expedition, they +receiving the returns of the district, and we the outfit brought +by them. By this conveyance I received letters from the Governor, +acquainting me "that another gentleman was appointed to the charge +of McKenzie's River District, and that he (the Governor) could +not conceive on what grounds I fancied myself to be the person so +appointed, as he was certain I could not have arrived at such a +conclusion from perusing the instructions I had received from him last +year!" Until now I thought I understood the English language as well +as most people; but the Governor makes it appear plainly enough that I +ought still to confine myself to the old Celtic. + +The instructions above referred to being given in the foregoing pages, +I shall leave the reader to form his own opinion of one who, in +the high and honourable position of a Governor, could treat so +ungenerously one whom he admitted to be a faithful and meritorious +servant, and whom he had acknowledged to be deserving of preferment: +and that not on the present only, but on several former occasions. + +This last insult I consider the climax to the wrongs I have so long +suffered. First I am appointed in the usual terms to the charge of a +district. I am allowed to continue in that opinion for a twelvemonth; +I enter into correspondence with the gentlemen of the district as +their future superintendent, and make my arrangements with them as +such; and, _au bout du compte_, am ordered back to the same district +to mix with the crowd, and submit to another master. I leave it to +the reader to judge whether such a Governor could possibly have the +interests of the Company at heart; even supposing for a moment there +were no _injustice_ in the case; I leave it to him to consider what +effect a conduct and measures so vacillating, unsteady and arbitrary, +are likely to have on the service and interests of the Company. + +This last act of the Governor made me completely disgusted with a +service where such acts could be tolerated. In no colony subject to +the British Crown is there to be found an authority so despotic as is +at this day exercised in the mercantile Colony of Rupert's Land; an +authority combining the despotism of military rule with the strict +surveillance and mean parsimony of the avaricious trader. From +Labrador to Nootka Sound the unchecked, uncontrolled will of a single +individual gives law to the land. As to the nominal Council which is +yearly convoked for form's sake, the few individuals who compose it +know better than to offer advice where none would be accepted; they +know full well that the Governor has already determined on his own +measures before one of them appears in his presence. Their assent is +all that is expected of them, and that they never hesitate to give. +Many years pass without such a thing as a legally constituted Council +being held. A legal Council ought to consist of seven members besides +the Governor; three chief factors and four chief traders. The Council, +however, seldom consists of more than five members and the Governor. + +Some years ago, I happened to be at an establishment where a "Council" +was about to be held. On inquiring of his Excellency's Secretary what +subject of moment he thought would first engage their attention-- + +"Engage their attention!" he replied; "bless your heart, man! the +minutes of Council were all drawn out before we arrived here; I have +them in my pocket." + +Clothed with a power so unlimited, it is not to be wondered at that a +man who rose from a humble situation should in the end forget what +he was and play the tyrant. Let others, if they will, submit to be so +ruled with a rod of iron. I at least shall not. + +In reply to his favour, I addressed the following letter to his +Excellency, a transcript of which I transmitted to the Committee. + +"Portage La Loche, "_August_ 3, 1844. + +"To SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, Governor of Rupert's Land:-- + +"SIR--I have the honour to acknowledge your several favours from +Lachine and Red River, and am mortified to learn by them you should +think me so stupid as not to understand your letters on the subject of +my appointment to the charge of the district; your language being so +clear, in fact, as to admit of no other construction than the one I +put upon it. By referring to the minutes of Council for 1843, I find +myself appointed to Fort Good Hope for that year; but you wrote me +subsequently to the breaking up of the Council, and used these words: +'That is now the finest field we have for the extension of trade, +and I count much on your activity for promoting our views in that +quarter. But while directing your attention to the extension of _your +district_, you must also use your best endeavours to curtail the +indents.' + +"Your letter to Mr. C.F. Lewis states, in nearly these words, that I +'am appointed to succeed him;' and you beg of him 'to deliver into my +hands all the documents that refer to the affairs of the district.' +Mr. Lewis understood your letters in the same sense as myself, and +so did every other person who perused them. What your object may +have been in altering this arrangement afterwards, is best known +to yourself; and whether such conduct can be reconciled with the +principles of honour and integrity which you so strongly recommend in +others, and which are so necessary to the well-being of society, is +a question which I shall leave for the present to your own decision; +while I cannot avoid remarking, that the treatment I have experienced +from you on this and on many other occasions, is as unworthy of +yourself and as unworthy of the high station you fill, as I am +undeserving of it. + +"When in 1837, I was congratulated by every member of Council then +present at Norway House on the prospect of my immediate promotion, +(having all voted for me,) your authority was interposed, and I was, +as a matter of course, rejected. You were then candid enough to tell +me that I should not have your interest until the two candidates you +then had in view were provided for, and that it would then be my turn. +With this assurance from you I cheerfully prepared for my _exile_ to +_Ungava_. _My turn_ only came, however, after _seven_ other promotions +had been made, and I found myself the last on the list of three +gentlemen who were promoted at the same time. + +"You are pleased to jest with the hardships I experienced while +battling the watch with opposition in the Montreal department, and +the privations I afterwards endured in New Caledonia. Surely, Sir, you +ought to have considered it sufficient to have made me your dupe, and +not add insult to oppression. While in the Montreal department I have +your handwriting to show your approval of my 'meritorious conduct,' +the course I was pursuing being 'the direct road to preferment;' and +your intention, even then, 'to recommend me to the favourable notice +of the Governor and Committee;'--promises in which I placed implicit +confidence at the time, being as yet a stranger to the ways of the +world.--The result of these promises, however, was that the moment +opposition had ceased, I was ordered to resign my situation to +another, and march to enjoy the 'delectable scenery' of New Caledonia; +from thence you sent me to Ungava, where you say you are not aware I +experienced any particular hardship or privation. + +"You are aware of the circumstances in which I found myself when I +arrived there: that consideration was not allowed to interpose between +me and my duty, however; and I accordingly traversed that desolate +country in the depth of winter,--a journey that nearly cost myself +and my companions our lives. I then continued to explore the country +during the entire period of my command, and finally succeeded in +discovering a practicable communication with Esquimaux Bay, and in +determining the question so long involved in uncertainty as to the +riches the interior possessed, and by so doing saved an enormous +expense to the concern. The Hon. Committee are aware of my exertions +in that quarter, themselves, as I had the honour of being in direct +communication with them while there. + + "I have the honour, &c. + (Signed) "JOHN MCLEAN." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + SITUATION OF FORT SIMPSON--CLIMATE--THE LIARD--EFFECTS OF + THE SPRING FLOODS--TRIBES INHABITING MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PECULIARITIES--DISTRESS THROUGH + FAMINE--CANNIBALISM--ANECDOTE--FORT GOOD HOPE SAVED BY THE + INTREPIDITY OF M. DECHAMBAULT--DISCOVERIES OF MR. CAMPBELL. + + +Mr. Lewis embarked for York Factory on the 4th of August. I set out on +my return on the 6th, and arrived at Fort Simpson on the 22d. Having +prepared and sent off the outfit for the different posts with all +possible expedition, I found myself afterwards at leisure to note down +whatever I thought worthy of being recorded with reference to this +section of the country. + +There are seven posts in this district; three on the River Liard and +its tributaries; three on the banks of McKenzie's River, and one +on Peel's River. About two degrees to the north of Good Hope, Fort +Simpson, the dépôt of the district, is situated at the confluence of +the Liard and McKenzie, in lat. 61° north. Heat and cold are here +felt in the extremes; the thermometer frequently falls to 50° minus in +winter, and rises sometimes to 100° in the shade in summer. The River +Liard has its source in the south among the Rocky Mountains: its +current is remarkably strong; and in the early part of summer, when +swollen by the melting of the snow, it rushes down in a foaming +torrent, and pours into the McKenzie, still covered with solid ice, +when a scene ensues terrific and grand:--the ice, resisting for some +time the force of the flood, ultimately gives way with the noise of +thunder, and clashing, roaring and tumbling, it rolls furiously along +until it accumulates to such an extent as to dam the river across. +This again presents, for a time, a solid barrier to the flood, which +is stopped in its course; it then rises sometimes to the height of +thirty and forty feet, overflowing the adjacent country for miles, +and levelling the largest trees with the ground. The effects of this +frightful conflict are visible in all the lower grounds along the +river. The trading posts are situated on the higher grounds, yet they +are not secure from danger. Fort Good Hope was swept clean away some +years ago, and its inmates only saved themselves by getting into a +boat that happened fortunately to be at hand. The McKenzie opens about +the end of May, and is ice-bound in November. + +The tribes who inhabit the banks of the McKenzie, and the interior +parts of the district, are members of the powerful and numerous +Chippewayan family, and are known by the names of Slaves, Dogribs, +Rabbitskins, and Gens des Montagnes. The Loucheux, or Squint-Eyes, +frequent the post on Peel's River, and speak a different language; +their hunting-grounds are within the Russian boundary, and are +supposed to be rich in fur-bearing animals. The Loucheux have no +affinity with the Chippewayan tribes, nor with their neighbours, the +Esquimaux, with whom, however, they maintain constant intercourse, +though not always of the most friendly kind, violent quarrels +frequently occurring between them. The various dialects spoken by +the other tribes are intelligible to all; in manners, customs, and +personal appearance, there is also the closest similarity. + +In one point, however, these tribes differ, not only from the parent +tribe, but from all the other tribes of America;--they treat their +women with the utmost kindness, the men performing all the drudgery +that usually falls to the women. Here the men are the hewers of +wood and drawers of water; they even clear away the snow for the +encampment; and, in short, perform every laborious service. This is +indeed passing strange;--the Chippewayans, and all other Indians, +treat their women with harshness and cruelty; while the women on the +banks of the McKenzie--Scotticé--"wear the breeks!" The Rabbitskins +and Slaves are in truth a mild, harmless, and even a timid race; could +it be this softness of disposition that induced the weaker sex first +to dispute, and finally to assume the supremacy?--or what cause can be +assigned for a trait so peculiar in this remotely situated portion of +the Indian race? + +These tribes clothe themselves with the skins of rabbits, and feed on +their flesh; when the rabbits fail, they are reduced to the greatest +distress both for food and raiment. I saw a child that remained naked +for several days after its birth, its parents having devoured every +inch of their miserable dress that could be spared from their bodies: +it was at last swaddled in crow's skins! + +These two tribes generally live near the banks of the great rivers, +and seem disposed to pass their pilgrimage on earth with as little +toil, and as little regard to comfort, as any people in being. They +pass summer and winter in the open air; they huddle together in an +encampment, without any other shelter from the inclemency of the +weather than what is afforded by the spreading branches of some +friendly pine, and use no more fire than what is barely sufficient to +keep them from freezing. Their wants are few, and easily provided +for; when they have killed a few deer to afford them sinews for making +rabbit-snares, they may be said to be independent for the remainder of +the season. Their work consists in setting those snares, carrying home +the game caught in them, eating them when cooked, and then lying down +to sleep. A taste, however, for articles of European manufacture is +gaining ground among them, and to obtain those articles a more active +life is necessary, so that some tolerable fur-hunters are now to be +found among them. + +The Dogribs occupy the barren grounds that are around Great Bear Lake, +and extend to the Copper-mine River. That part of the country abounds +in rein-deer, whose skin and flesh afford food and raiment to the +natives. They are a strong, athletic, well-formed race of Indians, and +are considered more warlike than their neighbours, who evidently dread +them. + +None of the Indians who frequent the posts on McKenzie's River have +hereditary chiefs; the dignity is conferred by the gentlemen in charge +of posts on the best hunters. On these occasions a suit of clothes +is bestowed, the most valued article of which is a coat of coarse red +cloth, decorated with lace; and, as the reward of extraordinary merit, +a felt hat is added, ornamented in the same manner, with a feather +stuck in the side of it. Thus equipped, the new-made chief sallies +forth to receive the gratulations of his admiring friends and +relatives, among whom the coat is ultimately divided, and probably +finishes its course in the shape of a tobacco-pouch. In course of +time, the individuals thus distinguished obtain some weight in the +councils of their people, but their influence is very limited; the +whole of the Chippewayan tribes seem averse to superior rule. + +Like the Esquimaux and Carriers, they seem to have had no idea of +religion prior to the settlement of Europeans among them; all the +terms they at present use in reference to the subject seem of recent +origin, and invented by the interpreters. They name the Deity, "Ya +ga ta-that-hee-hee,"--"The Man who reclines on the sky;" angels are +called "the birds of the Deity,"--"ya gat he-be e Yadzé;" the devil, +"Ha is linee," or, "the sorcerer." + +The Slaves and Rabbitskins have also their magicians, whom alone they +fear and reverence. Polygamy is not common, yet there are instances of +one man having two _female masters_. In times of famine the cravings +of hunger often drive these poor Indians to desperation, when the +feelings of humanity and of nature seem utterly eradicated. + +During the fearful distress of the two past years, a band of Slaves +came to Fort Simpson in a condition not to be described. Many of them +had perished by the way; but the history of one family is the most +shocking I ever heard. The husband first destroyed the wife, and +packed her up as provision for the journey. The supply proving +insufficient, one of the children was next sacrificed. The cannibal +was finally left by the party he accompanied with only one child +remaining--a boy of seven or eight years of age. Mr. Lewis immediately +despatched two men with some pemmican, to meet him; the aid came too +late,--they found the monster roasting a part of his last child at the +fire. Horrified at the sight, they uttered not a word, but threw the +provisions into the encampment, and retreated as fast as they could. A +few days afterwards this brute arrived strong and hearty, and appeared +as unconcerned as if all had gone on well with him and his family. +Cannibalism is more frequently known among the Slaves and Rabbitskins +than any other of the kindred tribes; and it is said that women are +generally the perpetrators of the crime; it is also said, that when +once they have tasted of this unhallowed food they prefer it to every +other. + +All the Chippewayan tribes dispose of their dead by placing them in +tombs made of wood, and sufficiently strong to resist the attacks of +wild beasts. The body is laid in the tomb at full length, without any +particular direction being observed as to the head or feet. Neither +they, nor any other Indians I am acquainted with, place their dead in +a sitting posture. + +It is affirmed by some writers that the Indians have a tradition among +them of the migration of their progenitors from east to west. I +have had every opportunity of investigating the question, and able +interpreters wherever I wintered; but I never could learn that any +such tradition existed. Even in their tales and legends there is never +any reference to a distant land; when questioned in regard to this, +their invariable answer is, "Our fathers and our fathers' fathers have +hunted on these lands ever since the flood, and we never heard of any +other country till the whites came among us." These tribes have +the same tradition in regard to the flood, that I heard among the +Algonquins at the gates of Montreal, some trifling incidents excepted. + +Unlike most other Indians, the Slaves have no fixed bounds to their +hunting-grounds, but roam at large, and kill whatever game comes in +their way, without fear of their neighbours. The hunter who first +finds a beaver-lodge claims it as his property, but his claim is not +always respected. + +Besides the Indians enumerated in the preceding pages, a number of +stragglers, but little known to us, occasionally resort to the post. +A band of these--nine in number--made their appearance at Fort Norman +this summer; and, after trading their furs, set out for Fort Good +Hope, with the avowed intention of plundering the establishment, and +carrying off all the women they could find. On arriving at the post +they rushed in, their naked bodies blackened and painted after the +manner of warriors bent on shedding blood; each carrying a gun and +dirk in his hands. + +The chief, on being presented with the usual gratuity--a piece of +tobacco, rudely refused it; and commenced a violent harangue against +the whites, charging them with the death of all the Indians who had +perished by hunger during the last three years; and finally challenged +M. Dechambault, the gentleman in charge of the post, to single +combat. M. Dechambault, _dicto citius_, instantly sprung upon him, +and twisting his arm into his long hair, laid him at his feet; and +pointing his dagger at his throat, dared him to utter another word. +So sudden and unexpected was this intrepid act, that the rest of the +party looked on in silent astonishment, without power to assist their +fallen chief, or revenge his disgrace. M. Dechambault was too generous +to strike a prostrate foe, even although a savage, but allowed the +crest-fallen chief to get on his legs again; and thus the affair +ended. + +The Company owe the safety of the establishment to Mr. D.'s +intrepidity: had he hesitated to act at the decisive moment, the game +was up with him, for he had only two lads with him, on whose aid he +could place but little reliance. Mr. D. has been thirty years in the +Company's service, and is still a _clerk_; but he is himself to blame +for his want of promotion, having been so inconsiderate as to allow +himself to be born in Canada, a crime which admits of no expiation. + +This district is at present by far the richest in furs of any in the +country; this is owing partly to the indolence of the natives, and +partly to the circumstance of the beaver in some localities being, +through the barrenness of the surrounding country, inaccessible to the +hunter. When the haunts of the animal become overcrowded, they send +forth colonies to other quarters. + +At the first arrival of the Europeans, large animals, especially +moose and wood rein-deer, were abundant everywhere. In those times the +resources of the district were adequate to the supply of provisions +for every purpose; whereas, of late years, we have been under the +necessity of applying for assistance to other districts. + +A new field has lately been laid open for the extension of the trade +of this district. An enterprising individual--Mr. R. Campbell--having +been for several years employed in exploring the interior, last summer +succeeded in finding his way to the west side of the Rocky Mountain +chain. The defile he followed led him to the banks of a very large +river, on which he embarked with his party of hardy pioneers; and +following its course for several days through a charming country, +rich in game of every description--elk, rein-deer, and beaver, he +eventually fell in with Indians, who received them kindly, although +they had never seen Europeans before. From them he learned that a +party of whites, Russians of course, had ascended the river in the +course of the summer, had quarrelled with the natives, and killed +several of them; and that the whites had returned forthwith to the +coast. These friendly Indians entreated Mr. C. to proceed no farther, +representing that he and his party were sure to fall victims to their +revenge. This, however, could not shake his resolution; he had set out +with the determination of proceeding to the sea at all hazards, and no +prospect of danger could turn him from it; till his party refused to +proceed farther on any conditions, when he was compelled to return. + +The returns of this district have, for years past, averaged 12,000l. +per annum; the outfit, including supplies for officers and servants, +has not exceeded as many hundreds. The affairs of the different posts +are managed by seven or eight clerks and postmasters; and there are +about forty hired servants--Europeans, Canadians, and half-breeds; +Indians are hired for the trip to the portage. The living for some +years past has not been such as Gil Blas describes, as "fit to tickle +the palate of a bishop;" at Fort Simpson we had, for the most part +of the season, fish and potatoes for breakfast, potatoes and fish +for dinner, and cakes made of flour and grease for supper. The fish +procured in this quarter is of a very inferior quality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + MR. MACPHERSON ASSUMES THE COMMAND--I AM APPOINTED TO FORT + LIARD, BUT EXCHANGE FOR GREAT SLAVE LAKE--THE INDIANS--RESOLVE + TO QUIT THE SERVICE--PHENOMENA OF THE LAKE. + + +On the 2d of October Mr. McPherson arrived from Canada, and I +forthwith demitted the charge. I was now appointed to Fort Liard, but +the season being far advanced, it had been found necessary to appoint +another previously, whose arrangements for the season being completed, +it was deemed expedient that I should pass the winter at Great Slave +Lake; and I embarked for that station accordingly on the 4th, and +arrived on the 16th. + +This post formerly belonged to Athabasca, but is now transferred +to McKenzie's River district. The natives consist of Chippewayans, +properly so called, and Yellow Knives, a kindred tribe; the former +inhabit the wooded parts of the country, extending along the northern +and eastern shores of the lake; and the latter, the opposite side +extending towards the Arctic regions, where there is no wood to be +found; it abounds, however, in rein-deer and musk oxen. The Yellow +Knives were at one time a powerful and numerous tribe; but their +number has been greatly diminished by a certain disease that lately +prevailed among them, and proved peculiarly fatal. They also waged +a short but bloody war with the Dogribs, that cost many lives. They +muster at present between sixty and eighty men able to bear arms. + +The Chippewayans in this quarter are a shrewd sensible people, and +evince an eager readiness to imitate the whites. Some years ago a +Methodist Missionary visited Athabasca; and although he remained but +a short time, his instructions seemed to have made a deep impression. +They observe the Sabbath with great strictness, never stirring from +their lodges to hunt, nor even to fetch home the game when killed, +on that day; and they carefully abstain from all the grosser vices +to which they formerly were addicted. What might not be expected of +a people so docile, if they possessed the advantages of regular +instruction! + +Having fortunately a supply of books with me, and other means of +amusement, I found the winter glide away without suffering much +from ennui; my health, however, proved very indifferent; and that +circumstance alone would have been sufficient to induce me to quit +this wretched country, even if my earlier prospects had been realized, +as they have not been. From the accompt current, I find my income +as chief trader for 1841 amounts to no more than 120l.: "Sic vos non +vobis mellificatis apes;" and since things are come to this pass, +it is high time I should endeavour to make honey for myself, in +some other sphere of life. I therefore transmitted my resignation to +head-quarters. + +I cannot close this chapter without mentioning a singular phenomenon +which the lake presents in the winter season. The ice is never less +than five feet in thickness, frequently from eight to nine; yet the +water under this enormous crust not only feels the changes in the +atmosphere, but anticipates them. An approaching change of wind or +weather is known twenty-four hours before it occurs. For instance, +while the weather is perfectly calm, if a storm be at hand, the lake +becomes violently agitated the day before; when calm weather is to +succeed, it is indicated in like manner by the previous stillness of +the lake, even when the gale is still raging in the air. In summer +there is no perceptible current in the lake; in winter, however, a +current always sets in the direction of the wind, and indicates a +change of wind by running in a different direction. These curious +points have been ascertained by the long observation of our fishermen, +who, in the beginning of winter, bore holes in the ice for the purpose +of setting their lines, and visit them every day, both in order to +keep them open, and to take up what fish may be caught. + +In consequence of the frequent shifting of the current, they +experience no little difficulty in adjusting their lines, the current +being occasionally so strong as to raise them to an angle of forty +degrees. Thus, if the lines were too long, and the current not very +strong, they would drag on the bottom; if too short, and the current +strong, they would be driven up upon the ice. The approach of a storm +is indicated, not by any heaving of the ice, but by the strength of +the current, and the roaring of the waves under the ice, which is +distinctly heard at a considerable distance, and is occasionally +increased by the collision of detached masses of broken ice, which, in +the earlier part of the season, have been driven under the main crust. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + REFLECTIONS--PROSPECTS IN THE SERVICE--DECREASE OF THE + GAME--COMPANY'S POLICY IN CONSEQUENCE--APPEAL OF THE + INDIANS--MEANS OF PRESERVING THEM, AND IMPROVING THEIR + CONDITION--ABOLITION OF THE CHARTER--OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. + + +The history of my career may serve as a warning to those who may be +disposed to enter the Hudson's Bay Company's service. They may learn +that, from the moment they embark in the Company's canoes at Lachine, +or in their ships at Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized +man most values on earth. They bid adieu to their family and friends, +probably for ever; for if they should remain long enough to attain the +promotion that allows them the privilege of revisiting their native +land--a period of from twenty to twenty-five years--what changes does +not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? They bid adieu to all +the comforts and conveniences of civilized life, to vegetate at some +desolate, solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, from any other +human habitation, save the wig-wam of the savage; without any other +society than that of their own thoughts, or of the two or three +humble individuals who share their exile. They bid adieu to all +the refinement and cultivation of civilized life, not unfrequently +becoming semi-barbarians,--so altered in habits and sentiments, that +they not only become attached to savage life, but eventually lose all +relish for any other. + +I can give good authority for this. The Governor, writing me last +year regarding some of my acquaintances who had recently retired, +observes--"They are comfortably settled, but apparently at a loss what +to do with themselves; and sigh for the Indian country, the squaws, +and skins, and savages." + +Such are the rewards the Indian trader may expect;--add to these, in +a few cases, the acquisition of some thousands, which, after forty +years' exile, he has neither health, nor strength, nor taste to enjoy. +Few instances have occurred of gentlemen retiring with a competency +under thirty-five or forty years' servitude, even in the best days of +the trade; what period may be required to attain that object in these +times, is a question not easily solved. Up to 1840, one eighty-fifth +share had averaged 400l. per annum; since then, however, the dividends +have been on the decline, nor are they ever likely to reach the same +amount, for several reasons,--the chief of which is the destruction of +the fur-bearing animals. + +In certain parts of the country, it is the Company's policy to destroy +them along the whole frontier; and our general instructions recommend +that every effort be made to lay waste the country, so as to offer no +inducement to petty traders to encroach on the Company's limits. Those +instructions have indeed had the effect of ruining the country, but +not of protecting the Company's domains. Along the Canadian frontier, +the Indians, finding no more game on their own lands, push beyond the +boundary, and not only hunt on the Company's territory, but carry a +supply of goods with them, which they trade with the natives. Their +Honours' fiat has also nearly swept away the fur animals on the west +side of the Rocky Mountains; yet I doubt whether all this precaution +will ensure the integrity of their domains. The Americans have taken +possession of the Columbia, and will speedily multiply and increase: +ere many years their trappers will be found scouring the interior, +from the banks of the Columbia to New Caledonia, and probably +penetrating to the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Should they +do so, that valuable part of the country embraced by the Peace and +McKenzie Rivers would soon be ruined; for the white trapper makes +a clean sweep wherever he goes. Taking all these circumstances +into consideration, I do not see any great probability--to say the +least--that the trade will ever attain the prosperity of days bygone. + +Even in such parts of the country as the Company endeavour to +preserve, both the fur-bearing and larger animals have of late become +so scarce, that some tribes are under the necessity of quitting their +usual hunting-grounds. A certain gentleman, in charge of a district to +which some of those Indians withdrew, on being censured for harbouring +them in his vicinity, writes thus:--"Pray, is it surprising, that poor +Indians, whose lives are in jeopardy, should relish a taste of buffalo +meat? It is not the Chippewayans alone that leave their lands to go +in search of food to preserve their lives; the Strongwood Crees and +Assineboines are all out in the plains, because, as they affirm, their +usual hunting-grounds are so exhausted that they cannot live upon +them. It is no wish of mine that those Indians should visit us--we +have trouble enough with our own,--but to turn a poor Indian out of +doors, who arrives at the Company's establishment nearly dead with +hunger, is what I am not able to do." + +In the work already quoted I find it stated "that the Company have +carefully nursed the various animals, removing their stations from the +various districts where they had become scarce, and taking particular +care to preserve the female while pregnant! instead, therefore, of +being in a state of diminution, as generally supposed, the produce is +increasing throughout their domains." Fudge! It is unnecessary to +say, that if this statement were correct, we should not hear such +distressing accounts of starvation throughout the country. No people +can be more attached to their native soil than the Indians; and it is +only the most pressing necessity that ever compels them to remove. + +In 1842 the Governor and Committee issued positive orders that the +beavers should be preserved, and every effort made to prevent the +Indians from killing them for a period of three years. This was, in a +great measure, "shutting the stable door after the steed was stolen." +The beavers had already been exterminated in many parts of the +country; and even where some were yet to be found, our injunctions to +the natives to preserve them had but little weight. To appease their +hunger they killed whatever game came in their way, and as we were +not permitted to buy the beaver skins, they either converted them into +articles of clothing for themselves or threw them away. Now (1845) the +restriction is removed, and the beavers have sensibly increased; but +mark the result: the natives are not only encouraged but strenuously +urged to hunt, in order that the parties interested may indemnify +themselves for their lost time; and ere three years more shall have +elapsed, the beaver will be found scarcer than ever. + +It is thus evident that whatever steps their Honours may take to +preserve the game, the attainment of that object, in the present +exhausted state of the country, is no longer practicable. + +As to the Company's having ever issued orders, or recommended any +particular measures for the preservation of the larger animals, male +or female, the statement is positively untrue. The minutes of the +Council are considered the statutes of the land, and in them the +provision districts are directed to furnish so many bags of pemmican, +so many bales of dry meat, and so many cwt. of grease, every year; and +no reference whatever is made to restrictions of any kind in killing +the animals. The fact is, the provisions must be forthcoming whatever +be the consequence; our business cannot be carried on without them. + +That the natives wantonly destroy the game in years of deep snow is +true enough; but the snow fell to as great a depth before the advent +of the whites as after, and the Indians were as prone to slaughter the +animals then as now; yet game of every description abounded and +want was unknown. To what cause then are we to ascribe the present +scarcity? There can be but one answer--to the destruction of the +animals which the prosecution of the fur-trade involves. + +As the country becomes impoverished, the Company reduce their outfits +so as to ensure the same amount of profit,--an object utterly beyond +their reach, although economy is pushed to the extreme of parsimony; +and thus, while the game becomes scarcer, and the poor natives require +more ammunition to procure their living, their means of obtaining +it, instead of being increased, are lessened. As an instance of the +effects of this policy, I shall mention what recently occurred in the +Athabasca district. + +Up to 1842 the transport of the outfit required four boats, when it +was reduced to three. The reduction in the article of ammunition was +felt so severely by the Chippewayans, that the poor creatures, in +absolute despair, planned a conspiracy to carry off the gentleman at +the head of affairs, and retain him until the Company should restore +the usual outfit. + +Despair alone could have suggested such an idea to the Chippewayans, +for they have ever been the friends of the white man. Mr. Campbell, +however, who had passed his life among them, conducted himself with so +much firmness and judgment, that, although the natives had assembled +in his hall with the intention of carrying their design into +execution, the affair passed over without any violence being +attempted. + +The general outfit for the whole northern department amounted in 1835, +to 31,000l.; now (1845) it is reduced to 15,000l., of which one-third +at least is absorbed by the stores at Red River settlement, and a +considerable portion of the remainder by the officers and servants of +the Company throughout the country. I do not believe that more than +one half of the outfit goes to the Indians. + +While the resources of the country are thus becoming yearly more and +more exhausted, the question naturally suggests itself, What is to +become of the natives when their lands can no longer furnish the means +of subsistence? This is indeed a serious question, and well worthy of +the earnest attention of the philanthropist. While Britain makes such +strenuous exertions in favour of the sable bondsmen of Africa, and +lavishes her millions to free them from the yoke, can nothing be done +for the once noble, but now degraded, aborigines of America? Are +they to be left to the tender mercies of the trader until famine and +disease sweep them from the earth? People of Britain! the Red Men of +America thus appeal to you;--from the depths of their forest they send +forth their cry-- + + "Brethren! beyond the Great Salt Lake, we, the Red Men of America + salute you:-- + "Brethren! + +"We hear that you are a great and a generous people; that you are as +valiant as generous; and that you freely shed your blood and scatter +your gold in defence of the weak and oppressed; if it be so, you will +open your ears to our plaints. + +"Brethren! Our ancients still remember when the Red Men were numerous +and happy; they remember the time when our lands abounded with game; +when the young men went forth to the chase with glad hearts and +vigorous limbs, and never returned empty; in those days our camps +resounded with mirth and merriment; our youth danced and enjoyed +themselves; they anointed their bodies with fat; the sun never set on +a foodless wigwam, and want was unknown. + +"Brethren! When your kinsmen came first to us with guns, and +ammunition, and other good things the work of your hands, we were glad +and received them joyfully; our lands were then rich, and yielded with +little toil both furs and provisions to exchange for the good things +they brought us. + +"Brethren! Your kinsmen are still amongst us; they still bring us +goods, and now we cannot want them; without guns and ammunition we +must die. Brethren! our fathers were urged by the white men to hunt; +our fathers listened to them; they ranged wood and plain to gratify +their wishes; and now our lands are ruined, our children perish with +hunger. + +"Brethren! We hear that you have another Great Chief who rules over +you, to whom even our great trading Chief must bow; we hear that this +great and good Chief desires the welfare of all his children; we hear +that to him the white man and the red are alike, and, wonderful to +be told! that he asks neither furs nor game in return for his bounty. +Brethren! we feel that we can no longer exist as once we did; we +implore your Great Chief to shield us in our present distress; we +desire to be placed under his immediate care, and to be delivered +from the rule of the trading Chief who only wants our furs, and cares +nothing for our welfare. + +"Brethren! Some of your kinsmen visited us lately; they asked neither +our furs nor our flesh; their sojourn was short; but we could see +they were good men; they advised us for our good, and we listened to +them. Brethren! We humbly beseech your Great Chief that he would send +some of those good men to live amongst us: we desire to be taught +to worship the Great Spirit in the way most pleasing to him: without +teachers among us we cannot learn. We wish to be taught to till the +ground, to sow and plant, and to perform whatever the good white +people counsel us to do to preserve the lives of our children. + +"Brethren! We could say much more, but we have said enough,--we wish +not to weary you. + +"Brethren! We are all the children of the Great Spirit; the red man +and the white man were formed by him. And although we are still in +darkness and misery, we know that all good flows from him. May he turn +your hearts to pity the distress of your Red Brethren! Thus have we +spoken to you." + +Such are the groans of the Indians. Would to Heaven they were heard by +my countrymen as I have heard them! Would to Heaven that the misery +I have witnessed were seen by them! The poor Indians then would +not appeal to them in vain. I can scarcely hope that the voice of a +humble, unknown individual, can reach the ears, or make any impression +on the minds of those who have the supreme rule in Britain; but if +there are there men of rank, and fortune, and influence, whose hearts +sympathise with the misery and distress of their fellow-men, whatever +be their country or hue--and, thank God! there are not a few--it is to +those true Britons that I would appeal in behalf of the much-wronged +Indians; the true and rightful owners of the American soil. + +If I am asked what I would suggest as the most effective means for +saving the Indians, I answer: Let the Company's charter be abolished, +and the portals of the territory be thrown wide open to every +individual of capital and enterprise, under certain restrictions; let +the British Government take into its hands the executive power of +the territory, and appoint a governor, judges, and magistrates; let +Missionaries be sent forth among the Indians;--already the whole +of the Chippewayan tribes, from English River to New Caledonia, are +disposed to adopt our religion as well as our customs, so that the +Missionaries' work is half done. Let those of them who manifest +a disposition to steady industry be encouraged to cultivate the +ground: let such as evince any aptitude for mechanics be taught +some handicraft, and congregated in villages, wherever favourable +situations can be found--and there is no want of them. Let schools be +established and supported by Government--not mere _common_ schools, +where reading, writing, arithmetic, and perhaps some of the higher +branches may be taught; but _training_ and _industrial_ schools. Where +the soil or climate is unfit for husbandry, other means of improving +their condition might be resorted to. In the barren grounds, bordering +on the Arctic regions, rein-deer still abound. Why should not the +Indians succeed in domesticating these animals, and rendering them +subservient to their wants, as the Laplanders do? I have been informed +that the Yellow Knives, and some of the other tribes inhabiting these +desert tracts, have the art of taming the fawns, which they take in +great numbers while swimming after their dams, so that they follow +them like dogs till they see fit to kill them. + +Such, in brief, are the measures which, after much experience, and +long and serious consideration, I would venture to propose in behalf +of the Indians; and most happy shall I be if anything I have said +shall have the effect of awakening the public interest to their +condition; or form the groundwork of any plan which, by the blessing +of God, may have the effect of preserving and christianizing the +remnants of these unhappy tribes. + +It may be objected, that the Company have had their charter renewed +for a period of twenty-one years, which does not expire till 1863; +and that Government is bound in honour to sustain the validity of the +deed. But if Government is bound to protect the _interests_ of the +Hudson's Bay Company, is it less bound to protect the _property_ and +_lives_ of their weak, ignorant, and wronged subjects? The validity of +the original charter, the foundation of the present, is, however, more +than questioned: nay, it has been declared by high authority to be +null and void. Admitting its validity, and admitting that the dictates +of honour call for the fulfilment of the charter in guarding the +_profits_ of the few individuals (and their dependants) who assemble +weekly in the old house in Fenchurch Street; are we to turn a deaf ear +to the still small voice of justice and humanity pleading in behalf +of the numerous tribes of perishing Indians? Now, now is the time to +apply the remedy; in 1863, where will the Indian be? + +If it is urged that the measures I propose violate the charter, +deprive the Company of their sovereignty, and reduce them to the +situation of subjects; still, I say, they will have vast advantages +over every other competitor. Their ample resources, their long +exclusive possession of the trade, their experience, the skill and +activity of their agents, will long, perhaps permanently, secure to +them the greatest portion of the trade; while the Indians will be +greatly benefited by a free competition. + +If it be urged that the profits will be so much reduced by +competition, that the trade will not be worth pursuing; I answer, +that competition has certainly a natural tendency to reduce profits; +but experience proves that it has also a tendency to reduce costs. +A monopolist company never goes very economically to work; and, +although much economy, or rather parsimony, of a very questionable and +impolitic kind, has been of late years attempted to be introduced into +the management of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, a free and fair +competition will suggest economy of a sounder kind--the facilitating +of transport, the improvement of portages, and the saving of labour. +Where are the evils which interested alarmists predicted would follow +the modification of the East India Company's charter? + +I have spoken of restrictions to be imposed on those who engage in the +trade. These are;--that no one be allowed to engage in it without +a licence from Government;--that these licensed traders should be +confined to a certain locality, beyond which they should not move, on +any pretext;--and that no spirituous liquors should be sold or given +to the Indians under the severest penalties--such as the forfeiture of +the offender's licence, and of their right to participate in the trade +in all time coming. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + WESLEYAN MISSION--MR. EVANS--ENCOURAGEMENT GIVEN BY THE + COMPANY--MR. EVANS'S EXERTIONS AMONG THE INDIANS--CAUSES OF + THE WITHDRAWAL OF THE COMPANY'S SUPPORT--CALUMNIOUS CHARGES + AGAINST MR. EVANS--MR. E. GOES TO ENGLAND--HIS SUDDEN DEATH. + + +Allusion has been made in a former chapter to the Company's +encouragement of Missionaries; I shall now add a few facts by way of +illustration. + +The Rev. Mr. Evans, a man no less remarkable for genuine piety than +for energy and decision of character, had been present at several of +the annual meetings of the Indians at Manitoulin Island, and had felt +his sympathy deeply awakened by the sight of their degradation and +spiritual destitution. While thus affected, he received an invitation +from the American Episcopal Methodists to go as a Missionary among +the Indians resident in the Union. Feeling, however, that his services +were rather due to his fellow-subjects, he resolved to devote his +labours and his life to the tribes residing in the Hudson's Bay +territory. Having made known his intentions to this Canada Conference, +he, together with Messrs. Thomas Hurlburt, and Peter Jacobs, was +by them appointed a Missionary, and at their charges sent to that +territory. No application was made to the Company, and neither +encouragement nor support was expected from them. Mr. E. and his +brother Missionaries began their operations by raising with their own +hands, unassisted, a house at the Pic; themselves cutting and hauling +the timber on the ice. They obtained, indeed, a temporary lodging at +Fort Michipicoton, but they not only found their own provisions, but +the comforts of the establishment were materially increased by Mr. +E.'s and his interpreter's success in fishing and hunting. Late in the +fall, accompanied by two Indian boys in a small canoe, Mr. E. made +a voyage to Sault Ste. Marie for provisions: and on this expedition, +rendered doubly hazardous by the lateness of the season, and the +inexperience of his companions, he more than once narrowly escaped +being lost. + +Returning next season to Canada for his family, he met Sir G. +Simpson, on Lake Superior. Having learned that the Mission was already +established, and likely to succeed, Sir George received him with +the utmost urbanity, treating him not only with kindness but +with distinction; he expressed the highest satisfaction at the +establishment of the Mission, promised him his utmost support, and at +length proposed that arrangement, which, however apparently auspicious +for the infant Mission, was ultimately found to be very prejudicial to +it. + +The caution of Mr. E. was completely lulled asleep by the apparent +kindness of the Governor, and the hearty warmth with which he seemed +to enter into his views. Sir George proposed that the Missionaries +should hold the same rank and receive the same allowance as the +wintering partners, or commissioned officers; and that canoes, or +other means of conveyance, should be furnished to the Missionaries for +their expeditions; nor did it seem unreasonable to stipulate that in +return for these substantial benefits, they should say or do nothing +prejudicial to the Company's interests either among the natives, or in +their Reports to the Conference in England, to whose jurisdiction the +Mission was transferred. The great evil of this arrangement was, that +the Missionaries, from being the servants of God, accountable to Him +alone, became the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, dependent +on, and amenable to them; and the Committee were of course to be the +sole judges of what was, or was not, prejudicial to their interests. +Still, it is impossible to blame very severely either Mr. E. or +the Conference for accepting offers apparently so advantageous, or +even for consenting to certain restrictions in publishing their +Reports:--with the assistance and co-operation of the Company great +good might be effected;--with the hostility of a Corporation all but +omnipotent within its own domain, and among the Indians, the post +might not be tenable. + +For some time matters went on smoothly: by the indefatigable exertions +of Mr. E. and his fellow-workers, aided also by Mrs. E., who devoted +much of her time and labour to the instruction of the females, a great +reformation was effected in the habits and morals of the Indians. +But Mr. Evans soon perceived that without books printed in the Indian +language, little permanent good would be realized: he therefore wrote +to the London Conference to send him a printing press and types, with +characters of a simple phonetic kind, which he himself had invented, +and of which he gave them a copy. The press was procured without +delay, but was detained in London by the Governor and Committee; and +though they were again and again petitioned to forward it, they flatly +refused. Mr. E., however, was not a man to be turned aside from his +purpose. With his characteristic energy he set to work, and having +invented an alphabet of a more simple kind, he with his penknife cut +the types, and formed the letters from musket bullets; he constructed +a rude sort of press; and aided by Mrs. E. as compositor, he at length +succeeded in printing prayers, and hymns, and passages of Scripture +for the use of the Indians. Finding their object in detaining the +press thus baffled, the Governor and Committee deemed it expedient to +forward it; but with the express stipulation, that every thing printed +should be sent to the commander of the post as _censor_, before it +was published among the Indians. This was among the first causes of +distrust and dissatisfaction. + +Another source of dissatisfaction was Mr. E.'s faithfulness in +regard to the observance of the sabbath. As the Indians became more +enlightened they ceased to hunt and fish, and even to carry home game +on the sabbath day; and, as a matter of course, they would no longer +work for the Company on that day. But Mr. E. was guilty of equal +faithfulness in remonstrating with those gentlemen in the service with +whom he was on terms of intimacy in regard to this point of the Divine +law; and several gentlemen, convinced by his arguments, determined to +cease from working and travelling on the sabbath. + +One of them, Mr. C----l, while on a distant expedition, acted in +accordance with his convictions, and rested on the sabbath. The voyage +turned out unusually stormy, and the water in the rivers was low, so +that it occupied several days longer than it had formerly done; and +the loss of time, which was really owing to the adverse weather, +was charged on his keeping of the sabbath. From that day forth, +the encouragement given to the Missionaries began to be withdrawn; +obstacles were thrown in their way, and although nothing was openly +done to injure the Missions already in operation, it would seem +that it was determined that, if the Company could prevent it, no new +stations should be occupied--at least by _Protestant_ Missionaries. + +Not long after, Mr. E., finding that the Missions he had hitherto +superintended were in such a state of progress that he might safely +leave them to the care of his fellow-labourers, resolved to proceed +to Athabasca and establish a mission there. Having gone, as usual, to +the Commander of the post to obtain the necessary provisions, and a +canoe and boatmen, he was received with unusual coldness. He asked +provisions,--none could be given; he offered to purchase them,--the +commander refused to sell him any. He begged a canoe,--it was denied +him; and finally, when he intreated that, if he should be able to +procure those necessaries elsewhere, he might at least be allowed a +couple of men to assist him on the voyage, he was answered that none +would be allowed to go on that service. Deeply grieved, but nothing +daunted, Mr. E. procured those necessaries from private resources, +and proceeded on his voyage. But a sad calamity put a stop to it; in +handing his gun to the interpreter it accidentally went off, and the +charge lodging in his breast killed him instantaneously. He was thus +compelled to return, in a state of mind bordering on distraction. + +Mr. E.'s zeal and piety promised the best results to the spiritual +and eternal interests of his Indian brethren. His talents, energy, +and fertility of resource, which seemed to rise with every obstacle, +had the happiest effects on their temporal well-being; and his mild +and winning manners greatly endeared him to all the Indians. But his +useful and honourable career was drawing to a close. The mournful +accident already alluded to had affected his health, and he now +received his deathblow. + +Yet, obnoxious as he had become to the Company, and formidable to +their interests as they might deem one of his talents and indomitable +resolution to be, the blow was not struck by them. It was dealt by +a _false_ brother; by one who had eaten of his bread: by a "familiar +friend, with whom he had taken sweet counsel." Charges affecting his +character, both as a man and a minister, of the foulest and blackest +kind, were transmitted to the Conference by a brother Missionary. To +answer these charges, as false as they were foul, he was compelled +to leave the churches he had planted and watered, to bid adieu to the +people whose salvation had been for years the sole object of his life, +and to undertake a voyage of 5,000 miles to appear before his brethren +as a _criminal_. As a criminal, indeed, he was received; yet after +an investigation, begun and carried on in no very friendly spirit to +him, truth prevailed. He was declared innocent, and the right hand +of fellowship was again extended to him. He made a short tour through +England, and was everywhere received with respect, and affection, and +sympathy. + +But anxiety, and grief, and shame had done their work. Scarce three +weeks had elapsed, when, having spent the evening along with Mrs. +E. in the family of a friend, whose guest he was, with some of his +wonted cheerfulness, Mrs. E. having retired but a few minutes, she was +summoned to the room where she had left him in time to see him pass +into that land where "the wicked cease from troubling." The cause +of his death was an _affection of the heart_. And that man--the +slanderer--the murderer of this martyred Missionary--what punishment +was inflicted on him? He is to this day unpunished! and yet lives +in the Hudson's Bay territory, the disgrace and opprobrium of his +profession and his church. + +Such are a few facts connected with the establishment of the Wesleyan +Mission in the Hudson's Bay territory, and illustrative of the sort +of encouragement given by the Committee to Protestant Missionaries. +By way of rider to these, I may just remind the reader that Roman +Catholic Missionaries have since been freely permitted to plant +churches wherever they pleased, even in districts where Protestant +Missions were already established. + +After all, this is not much to be wondered at, since Sir G. +Simpson openly avowed to Mr. Evans his preference of Roman Catholic +Missionaries; one reason for this preference being, that these never +interfered with the Company's servants, nor troubled them with any +precise or puritanical notions about the moral law. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + + RED RIVER--SOILS--CLIMATE--PRODUCTIONS--SETTLEMENT OF RED + RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS--COLLISION BETWEEN + THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY COMPANIES--INUNDATION--ITS + EFFECTS--FRENCH HALF-BREEDS--BUFFALO-HUNTING--ENGLISH + HALF-BREEDS--INDIANS--CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--STORES--MARKET FOR + PRODUCE--COMMUNICATION BY LAKES. + + +Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in the distant plains of the +south; and after receiving a number of tributary streams that serve to +fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the world possesses, +discharges itself into the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg in +lat. 50°. The climate is much the same as in the midland districts of +Canada; the river is generally frozen across about the beginning of +November, and open about the beginning of April. The soil along the +banks of the river is of the richest vegetable mould, and of so great +a depth that crops of wheat are produced for several years without the +application of manure. The banks produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the +woods extend rather more than a mile inland. The farms of the first +settlers are now nearly clear of wood; an open plain succeeds of from +four to six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. Woods and +plains alternate afterwards until you reach the boundless prairie. +The woods produce a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the +eye and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, plums, +gooseberries, currants, grapes, and sasgatum berries in great +abundance. Coal has been discovered in several places, and also salt +springs. + +Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted with the natural advantages +of this favoured country by his North-West hosts in Montreal, +determined forthwith on adopting such measures as might ensure to +himself and heirs the possession of it for ever. Accordingly, on his +return to England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's stock to an +amount that enabled him to control the decisions of the Committee; +and thus, covered by the shield of the charter, he could carry on his +premeditated schemes of aggression against the North-West Company, +with some appearance of justice on his side. + +With the view of carrying out these schemes, he proceeded to the North +of Scotland, and prevailed on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to Red +River. To induce them to quit their native land, the most flattering +prospects were held out to them; the moment they set their foot in +this land of promise, the hardships and privations to which they had +hitherto been subject, would disappear; the poor man would exchange +his "potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman would become a +ruler and a judge in--Assineboine! Who could doubt the fulfilment +of the promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, soon +collected the required number of emigrants--for the Highlander of the +present day gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a country that +no longer affords him bread. + +At the period in question, Red River district furnished the principal +part of the provisions required by the North-West Company, and was a +wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, and abounding in the +larger animals--elk and rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the +plains. + +As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which discharges itself by +Neilson's river into Hudson's Bay, and could therefore be included +within the territory granted by the charter, our noble trader +concluded that, by taking formal possession of the country, he would +obtain the right of expelling other adventurers, merely by warning +them off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning were +disregarded, he could claim the aid of Government to enforce his +rights, and thus ruin the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's +Governor was therefore instructed to issue a proclamation, prohibiting +the North-West Company by name, and all others, from carrying on +any species of trade within Red River district, and ordering such +establishments as had been formed to be abandoned. + +The North-Westers read the proclamation, and--prosecuted their +business as before. In such circumstances quarrels were unavoidable, +but they were generally settled with _ink_; a collision ultimately +took place that led to the shedding of blood. The North-Westers had +collected a large supply of provisions at their dépôt, and were +about to forward it to the place of embarkation, when they were +informed--falsely, as it afterwards appeared,--that the Governor +intended to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, equally false, +was brought to the Governor, that the North-Westers had assembled a +strong force of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying rumours +led to an unhappy catastrophe. + +The Governor sent out scouts to watch the North-West party; +and ascertaining that they were on their march with an unusual +force,--which they had brought in order to repel the attack which they +supposed was to be made upon them,--he seized his arms, and marched +with his whole party to meet them. The North-Westers seeing them +approach, halted, and standing to their arms, sent forward one of +their number to demand whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace +or war. + +During the interview a shot was fired--it is a matter in dispute to +this day who fired it--the half-breeds immediately poured a volley +into the ranks of their opponents, and brought down nearly all the +gentlemen of the party, including the unfortunate Governor; the +remainder fled to the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe +entered together. Thus the poor settlers found themselves suddenly +surrounded by all the horrors of war; their anticipated paradise +converted into a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; their +little property pillaged, and their persons in the power of their +enemies. + +An arrangement, however, was entered into by the rival Companies, +that allowed the emigrants to take possession of the lands allotted +to them, and in the course of a few years their labour had made a +sensible impression on the forest. Cattle were sent out from England; +pigs and poultry followed, and honest Donald was beginning to find +himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams of future wealth and +happiness vanished in a moment. Red River overflowed its banks, +and inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary flood caused +immense loss; it overthrew houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly +ruined the crops of the season. The buffaloes, however, proved +abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions enough to prevent +starvation, and the settlers soon recovered from the effects of this +misfortune. Another calamity followed--the caterpillar appeared--at +first in small numbers, afterwards in myriads, covering the whole +land, and eating up "every green thing," and thus the crops were +destroyed a second time; but the consequences were not so severely +felt as formerly; the preceding season had proved extremely abundant, +and a sufficient quantity remained to supply the failure of this year. +Since that time the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed +peace; industry has its sure reward in the abundance of all the +necessaries of life which it procures. + +Since the coalition took place, Red River has become the favourite +retreat of the Company's servants, especially of those who have +families; here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. A lot of +one mile in length and six chains in breadth, costs only 18l.; and +they find themselves surrounded by people of congenial habits with +themselves, the companions of their youth, and fellow-adventurers; +those with whom they tugged at the oar, and shared the toil of the +winter march; and when they meet together to smoke the social pipe, +and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor prince nor prelate" can +enjoy more happiness. + +The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population at 5,000 souls; it +may now (1845) amount to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion +is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps 300 souls. The Scotch +carried with them the frugal and industrious habits of their country; +the same qualities characterise their children, who are far in advance +of their neighbours in all that constitutes the comforts of life. +These advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, to their +own good management; yet, notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding +that they are a quiet and a moral people, they are objects of envy and +hatred to their hybrid neighbours; and thus my industrious and worthy +countrymen, in the possession of almost every other blessing which +they could desire, are still unhappy from the malice and ill-will they +meet with on every side; and being so inferior in numbers, they must +submit to the insults and abuse they are daily exposed to, while the +blood boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, many of them +have abandoned the settlement and gone to the United States, where +they enjoy the fruits of their industry in peace. + +The French half-breeds and retired Canadian voyageurs occupy the upper +part of the settlement. The half-breeds are strongly attached to the +roving life of the hunter; the greater part of them depend entirely on +the chase for a living, and even the few who attend to farming take a +trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and marrow fat. They sow +their little patches of ground early in spring, and then set out for +the chase, taking wives and children along with them, and leaving only +the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops. + +When they set out for the plains, they observe all the order and +regularity of a military march; officers being chosen for the +enforcement of discipline, who are subject to the orders of a chief, +whom they style "M. le Commandant." They take their departure from the +settlement about the latter end of June, to the number of from 1,200 +to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at least six carts, and some +twelve; the whole number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his riding +nag and cart horses, he has also at least one buffalo runner, which he +never mounts until he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" is +tended with all the care which the cavalier of old bestowed on his +war steed; his housing and trappings are garnished with beads and +porcupine quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's wife or +belle can exercise; while head and tail display all the colours of the +rainbow in the variety of ribbon attached to them. + +The "Commandant" directs the movements of the whole cavalcade: at a +signal given in the morning by sound of trumpet--_alias_, by blowing +a horn,--the hunters start together for their horses; while the women +and servants strike the tents, and pack up and load the baggage. The +horses being all collected, a second blast forms the order of march; +the carts fall in, four abreast; the hunters mount; and dividing into +their different bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes +the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The third blast is +the signal for marching. They halt about two hours at noon, for the +purpose of allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same order is +observed as in starting in the morning. When they encamp at night, +the carts are placed in a circle; and the tents are pitched within +the enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the horses are +"hobbled" and turned loose to graze. + +All the arrangements for the night being completed, guards are +appointed to watch over the safety of the camp, who are relieved +at fixed hours. In this manner they proceed until they approach the +buffalo grounds, when scouts are sent out to ascertain the spot where +the herd may be found. The joyful discovery being made, the scouts +apprise the main body by galloping backwards and forwards, when a halt +is immediately ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters mount their +runners; and the whole being formed into an extended line, with the +utmost regularity, they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul +advances an inch in front of the line, until within gun-shot of the +herd, when they rein up for a moment. The whole body then, as if with +one voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd at full gallop; +each hunter, singling out an animal, pursues it until he finds an +opportunity of taking sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some +article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards recognised. The +hunter immediately sets off in chase of another, priming, loading, and +taking aim at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently secures +ten buffaloes at a "course;" from four to eight is the usual number. +He who draws the first blood claims the animal, and each individual +hunter is allowed whatever he kills. + +The moment the firing commences, the women set out with the carts, and +cut up and convey the meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of +bones and fat. Two or three days are required for the operation, when +they set out again; and the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient +quantity to load all the carts, each carrying about one thousand +pounds,--an enormous quantity in the aggregate; yet the herd is +sometimes so numerous that all this slaughter does not seem to +diminish it. + +The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, and some of the +dangers, of the battle-field. The horses are often gored by the +infuriated bulls, to the great peril--sometimes to the loss--of the +rider's life; serious accidents too happen from falls. There are no +better horsemen in the world than the Red River "brulés;" and so long +as the horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. The falls +are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes the badger digs all over the +prairies; if the horse plunges into one of these, both horse and man +roll on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally happen from +gun shots in the _melée_; and it is said, I know not with what truth, +that a wronged husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails +himself of the opportunity presented by the _melée_ to miss the +buffalo, and hit a friend--by _accident_. + +A priest generally accompanies the camp, and mass is celebrated with +becoming solemnity on Sundays. The "brulés" attend, looking very +serious and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when the cry of +"La vache! la vache!" scatters the congregation in an instant; away +they scamper, old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the +winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. Two trips in the year +are generally made to the prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo +hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage than of the +civilized man; it is a life of alternate plenty and want--a life +also of danger and inquietude. The Indians of the plain view the +encroachment of the strange race on their hunting grounds, with +feelings of jealousy and enmity. They are, accordingly, continually on +the alert; they attack detached parties and stragglers; they also set +fire to the prairies about the time the "brulés" set out for the hunt, +and by this means drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to this +circumstance, the "brulés" have returned with empty carts for these +two years past; and their only resource has been to betake themselves +to the woods, and live after the manner of the Indians. Could they +find a sure market for the produce of the soil, so as to remunerate +their labour, there can be little doubt but that they might be +gradually detached from the half-savage life they lead, and become as +steady and industrious as their neighbours. + +The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny of the British are +designated, possess many of the characteristics of their fathers; they +generally prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to the chase, +and follow close on the heels of the Scotch in the path of industry +and moral rectitude. Very few of them resort to the plains, unless for +the purpose of trafficking the produce of their farms for the produce +of the chase; and it is said that they frequently return home better +supplied with meat than the hunters themselves. + +The Indians who have been converted to the Protestant religion, are +settled around their respected pastor at the lower extremity of +the settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth of the river. The +Sauteux, of all other tribes, are the most tenacious of their own +superstitions; and it would require all the zeal and patience and +perseverance of the primitive teachers of Christianity to wean them +from them. But when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert is +the more steadfast in his faith; and his steadfastness and sincerity +prove an ample reward to his spiritual father for his pains and +anxiety on his behalf. + +The Indian converts are entirely guided by their Missionary in +temporal as well as in spiritual things. When he first came among +them, he found their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that +something more than advice was necessary to produce the desired +change. Like Oberlin, therefore, he set before them the example of a +laborious and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, he planted, he +reaped with his own hands, and afterwards shared his produce with +them. By persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining them +to his views; and, at the present moment, their settlement is in as +forward a state of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements. + +They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; their horses, +and cattle, and well-cultivated fields:--a happy change! A few years +ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond race; "hewers of +wood and drawers of water" for the other settlers, as their pagan +brethren still are; they wandered about from house to house, +half-starved, and half-naked; and even in this state of abject misery, +preferring a glass of "fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves +or their children. + +There are at present three ministers of the episcopal communion at Red +River. The Scotch inhabitants attend the church regularly, although +they sigh after the form of worship to which they had been accustomed +in early youth; they, however, assemble afterwards in their own houses +to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the manner of their +fathers. There are also three Roman Catholic clergymen, including +a bishop;--good, exemplary men, whose "constant care" is not "to +increase their store," but to guide and direct their flocks in the +paths of piety and virtue. But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people +to deal with;--the French half-breed, who follows the hunter's life, +possesses all the worst vices of his European and Indian progenitors, +and is indifferent alike to the laws of God and man. There are, +in all, seven places of worship, three Roman Catholic, and four +Protestant, including two for the Indians. + +The education of the more respectable families, particularly those +of the Company's officers, is well provided for at an institution +of great merit; the gentleman who presides over it being every +way qualified for the important trust. The different branches of +mathematical and classical learning are taught in it; and the school +has already produced some excellent scholars. In addition to the more +useful branches of female education, the young ladies are taught music +and drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. Thus we have, +in the midst of this remote wilderness of the North-West, all the +elements of civilized life; and there are there many young persons of +both sexes, well educated and accomplished, who have never seen the +civilized world. There are also thirteen schools for the children of +the lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves. + +The Company have here two shops (or stores), well supplied with every +description of goods the inhabitants can require; there are besides +several merchants scattered through the settlement, some of whom are +said to be in easy circumstances. The Company's bills constitute the +circulating medium, and are issued for the value of from one to twenty +shillings. Of late years, a considerable amount of American specie +has found its way into the settlement, probably in exchange for furs +clandestinely disposed of by the merchants beyond the line. The petty +merchants import their goods from England by the Company's ships; an +_ad valorem_ duty is imposed on these goods, the proceeds of which are +applied to the payment of the constabulary force of the colony. The +Company's charter invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive +and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor and Council enact such +simple statutes as the primitive condition of the settlement requires; +and those enactments have hitherto proved equal to the maintenance +of good order. A court of quarter sessions is regularly held for the +administration of justice, and the Company have lately appointed a +Recorder to preside over it. It is gratifying to learn, that this +functionary has had occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious +crime since his appointment. + +In the work to which I have so frequently referred, it is mentioned, +that a "certain market is secured to the inhabitants by the demand +for provisions for the other settlements." If by "settlements" the +miserable trading posts be meant, as it must be, I know not on what +grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure market, forsooth! A single +Scotch farmer could be found in the colony, able alone to supply the +greater part of the produce the Company require; there is one, in +fact, who offered to do it. If a sure market were secured to the +colonists of Red River, they would speedily become the wealthiest +yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries are always full to +overflowing; so abundant are the crops, that many of the farmers could +subsist for a period of two or even three years, without putting a +grain of seed in the ground. The Company purchase from six to eight +bushels of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three shillings per +bushel; and the sum total of their yearly purchases from the whole +settlement amounts to-- + + 600 cwt. flour, first and second quality. + 35 bushels rough barley. + 10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each. + 10 bushels Indian corn. + 200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour. + 60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each. + 240 lbs. cheese. + 60 hams. + +Thus it happens that the Red River farmer finds a "sure market" for +six or eight bushels of wheat--and no more. Where he finds a sure +market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven only knows--I do not. +This much, however, I do know,--that the incomparable advantages this +delightful country possesses are not only in a great measure lost to +the inhabitants, but also to the world, so long as it remains under +the domination of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession of, and +subject to the immediate jurisdiction of the Crown, Assineboine would +become a great and a flourishing colony--the centre of civilization +and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, who would be converted +from hostile barbarians into a civilized and loyal people;--and thus +Great Britain would extend and establish her dominion in a portion +of her empire that may be said to have been hitherto unknown to her, +while she would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of +her sons. + +In describing the advantages of this country, candour requires that I +should also point out its disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the +difficulty of the communication with the sea, interrupted as it is by +shoals, rapids, and falls, which in their present state can only be +surmounted with incredible toil and labour. Yet there cannot be a +doubt that the skill of the engineer could effect such improvements as +would obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, and that at +no very great cost. The distance from the mouth of Red River to York +Factory is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is formed of +lakes--(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in length, is navigable for vessels +of forty and fifty tons burden). The greater part of the river +communication might be rendered passable by Durham boats, merely +by damming up the rivers. Along the line of communication, many +situations may be found suitable for farming operations. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + SIR G. SIMPSON--HIS ADMINISTRATION. + + +Sir George Simpson commenced his career as a clerk in a respectable +counting-house in London, where his talents soon advanced him to the +first seat at the desk. He was in this situation when first introduced +to the notice of a member of the Committee of the Hudson's Bay +Company, who were at that time engaged in the ruinous competition with +the North-West Company already referred to. While the contest was +at its height, the Company sent out Mr. Simpson as Governor of the +Northern department;--an appointment for which, by his abilities +natural and acquired, he was well qualified. Mr. Simpson combined with +the prepossessing manners of a gentleman all the craft and subtlety of +an intriguing courtier; while his cold and callous heart was incapable +of sympathising with the woes and pains of his fellow-men. On his +first arrival, he carefully concealed from those whom he was about +to supersede, the powers with which he was invested; he studied +the characters of individuals, scrutinized in secret their mode of +managing affairs, and when he had made himself fully acquainted with +every particular he desired to know, he produced his commission;--a +circumstance that proved as unexpected as it was unsatisfactory to +those whose interests it affected. + +Making every allowance for Sir George's abilities, he is evidently +one of those men whom the blind goddess "delighteth to honour." Soon +after assuming the supreme command, the North-West wintering partners +undertook the mission to England, already mentioned, which led to +the coalition; and thus Sir George found himself, by a concurrence of +circumstances quite independent of his merits, placed at the head of +both parties; from being Governor of Rupert's Land his jurisdiction +now included the whole of the Indian territory from Hudson's Bay to +the shores of the Pacific Ocean; and the Southern department, at that +time a separate command, was soon after added to his government. Here, +then, was a field worthy of his talents; and that he did every manner +of justice to it, no one can deny. Yet he owes much of his success +to the valuable assistance rendered him by Mr. McTavish; at his +suggestion, the whole business was re-organized, a thousand abuses +in the management of affairs were reformed, and a strict system +of economy was introduced where formerly boundless extravagance +prevailed. To effect these salutary measures, however, much tact +was required: and here Sir George's abilities shone conspicuous. +The long-continued strife between the two companies had engendered +feelings of envy and animosity, which could not subside in a day; and +the steps that had been taken to bring about the coalition, created +much ill-will even among the North-West partners themselves. Nor were +the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company without their dissensions +also. To harmonize these elements of discord, to reconcile the +different parties thus brought so suddenly and unexpectedly together +into one fold, was a task of the utmost difficulty to accomplish; but +Sir George was equal to it. He soon discovered that the North-West +partners possessed both the will and the ability to thwart and defeat +such of his plans as were not satisfactory to themselves; that +they were by far the most numerous in the Council--at that time +an independent body--and the best acquainted with the trade of the +Northern department, the most important in the territory; and finding, +after some experience, that while those gentlemen continued united, +their power was beyond his control, and that to resist them openly +would only bring ruin on himself, without any benefit to the concern, +he prudently gave way to their influence; and instead of forcing +himself against the stream, allowed himself apparently to be carried +along with it. + +For a time, he seemed to promote all the views of his late +adversaries; he yielded a ready and gracious acquiescence in their +wishes; he lavished his bows, and smiles, and honied words on them +all; and played his part so well, that the North-Westers thought they +had actually gained him over to their own side; while the gentlemen of +the Hudson's Bay Company branded him as a traitor, who had abandoned +his own party and gone over to the enemy. + +The Committee received several hints of the Governor's "strange +management," but they only smiled at the insinuations, as they +perfectly understood the policy. His well-digested schemes had, in due +time, all the success he anticipated. + +Having thus completely gained the confidence of the North-West +partners, his policy began gradually to unfold itself. One +obstreperous North-Wester was sent to the Columbia; another to the +Montreal department, where "their able services could not be dispensed +with;" and thus in the course of a few years he got rid of all those +refractory spirits who dared to tell him their minds. + +The North-West nonconformists being in this manner disposed of, Sir +George deemed it no longer necessary to wear the mask. His old friends +of the Hudson's Bay, or "sky-blue" party, were gradually received into +favour; his power daily gained the ascendant, and at this moment Sir +George Simpson's rule is more absolute than that of any governor under +the British crown, as his influence with the Committee enables him to +carry into effect any measure he may recommend. That one possessed +of an authority so unbounded should often abuse his power is not to +be wondered at; and that the abuse of power thus tolerated should +degenerate into tyranny is but the natural consequence of human +weakness and depravity. The question is--Is it consistent with +prudence to allow an _individual_ to assume and retain such power? +Most of the Company's officers enter the service while yet very young; +none are so young, however, as not to be aware of the privileges to +which they are entitled as British subjects, and that they have a +right to enjoy those privileges while they tread on British soil. +The oft repeated acts of tyranny of which the autocrat of "all Prince +Rupert's Land and its dependencies" has lately been guilty, have +accordingly created a feeling of discontent which, if it could be +freely expressed, would be heard from the shores of the Pacific to +Labrador. + +Unfortunately, the Company's servants are so situated, that they dare +not express their sentiments freely. The clerk knows that if he is +heard to utter a word of disapprobation, it is carried to the ears of +his sovereign lord, and his prospects of advancement are marred for +ever; he therefore submits to his grievances in silence. The chief +trader has probably a large family to support, has been thirty or +forty years in the service, and is daily looking forward to the other +step: he too is silent. The chief factor has a situation of importance +in which his vanity is gratified and his comfort secured; to +express his opinion freely might risk the sacrifice of some of these +advantages; so he also swallows the pill without daring to complain of +its bitterness, and is silent. + +A very valuable piece of plate was, some years ago, presented to +Sir George by the commissioned gentlemen in the service, as a mark +of respect and esteem; and this circumstance may be adduced by Sir +George's friends, with every appearance of reason, as a proof of his +popularity; but the matter is easily explained. Some two or three +persons who share Sir George's favour, determine among themselves +to present him with some token of their gratitude. They address a +circular on the subject to all the Company's officers, well knowing +that none dare refuse in the face of the whole country to subscribe +their name. The same cogent reasons that suppress the utterance of +discontent compelled the Company's servants to subscribe to this +testimonial; and the subscription list accordingly exhibits, with few +exceptions, the names of every commissioned gentleman in the service; +while two-thirds of them would much rather have withheld their +signatures. + +Sir George owes his ribbon to the successful issue of the Arctic +expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson. His share of the +merit consisted in drawing out instructions for those gentlemen, +which occupied about half-an-hour of his time at the desk. It is +quite certain that the expedition owed none of its success to those +instructions. The chief of the party, Mr. Dease, was at least as well +qualified to give as to receive instructions; and Sir George is well +aware of the fact. He knows, too, that Mr. Dease was engaged in +the Arctic expedition under Sir J. Franklin, where he acquired that +experience which brought this important yet hazardous undertaking to +a successful issue; he knows also that in an enterprise of this kind +a thousand contingencies may arise, which must be left entirely to the +judgment of those engaged in it to provide against. + +Sir George, nevertheless, obtained the chief honours; but the bauble +perishes with him; while the courage, the energy and the perseverance +of Mr. Dease and his colleague will ever be a subject of admiration to +those who peruse the narrative of their adventures. + +Sir George's administration, it is granted, has been a successful +one; yet his own friends will admit that much of this success must +be ascribed to his good fortune rather than to his talents. The +North-West Company had previously reduced the business to a perfect +system, which he had only to follow. It is true he introduced great +economy into every department; but the North-West Company had done +so before him, and the wasteful extravagance which preceded his +appointment was entirely the result of the rivalry between the two +companies, and under any governor whatever would have ceased when the +coalition was effected. + +Not a little, too, of Sir George's economy was of "the penny-wise and +pound-foolish" kind. Thus it has been already observed, that the lives +of the Company's servants, and the property of an entire district, +were placed in extreme jeopardy by his false economy; and a +contingency, which no prudent man would have calculated upon, +alone prevented a catastrophe which involved the destruction of the +Company's property to a large amount, as well as of the lives of its +servants. But independently of this, he has committed several errors +of a most serious kind. Of these the chief is the Ungava adventure, +an enterprise which was begun in opposition to the opinion of every +gentleman in the country whose experience enabled him to form a +correct judgment in the matter; and this undertaking was persisted in, +year after year, at an enormous loss to the Company. Finally, he has +not even the merit of correcting his own blunders. It was not till +after a mass of evidence of the strongest kind was laid before the +Committee, that they, in his absence, gave orders for the abandonment +of the hopeless project. + +His caprice, his favouritism, his disregard of merit in granting +promotion, it will be allowed, could not have a favourable effect on +the Company's interests. His want of feeling has been mentioned: a +single example of this will close these remarks. A gentleman of high +rank in the service, whose wife was dangerously ill, received orders +to proceed on a journey of nearly 5,000 miles. Aware that his duty +required a prompt obedience to these orders, he set off, taking her +along with him. On arriving at the end of the first stage, she became +worse; and medical assistance being procured, the physicians were of +opinion that in all probability death would be the consequence if he +continued his journey. A certificate to this effect was forwarded to +Sir George. The answer was, that Madame's health must not interfere +with the Company's service; and that he must continue his journey, or +abide the consequences. + +In consequence of this delay, he only reached Montreal on the day when +the boats were to leave Lachine for the interior. He hurried to the +office, where he met Sir George, and was received by him with the cool +remark-- + +"You are late, Sir; but if you use expedition you may yet be in time +for the boats." + +He earnestly begged for some delay, but in vain. No regard was paid to +his entreaties; and he was obliged to hurry his wife off to Lachine, +and put her on board a common canoe, where there is no accommodation +for a sick person, and where no assistance could be procured, even in +the last extremity. + + + + +VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS IN USE AMONG THE TRIBES IN +THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | SAUTEU, or | | BEAVER | | + | ENGLISH. | OGIBOIS. | CREE. | INDIAN. | CHIPPEWAYAN. | + |-----------|---------------|-------------|--------------|--------------| + | One | Pejik | Pay ak | It la day | Ittla h[=e] | + | Two | Neesh | Neesho | Onk shay day | Nank hay | + | Three | Nisway | Nisto | Ta day | Ta he | + | Four | Neowin | Neo | Dini day | Dunk he | + | Five | N[=a] nan | Nay n[=a] | Tlat zoon e | Sa soot | + | | | nan | de ay | la he | + | Six | Ni got as way | Nigotwassik | Int zud ha | L'goot ha hé | + | Seven | Nish was | Tay pa | Ta e wayt | Tluz ud | + | | way | goop | zay | dunk he | + | Eight | Shwas way | Ea naneo | Etzud een | L'goot dung | + | | | | tay | he | + | Nine | Sang | Kay gat me | Kala gay ne | Itla ud ha | + | | | t[=a] tat | ad ay | | + | Ten | Quaitch | Me ta tat | Kay nay day | Hona | + | Eleven | Aji pay jik | Payak ai | Tlad ay | Itla, ja | + | | | wak | may day | idel | + | Twelve | Aji neesh | Neesh way | Ong shay day | Nank hay, | + | | | ai wok | may day | ja idel | + | Twenty | Neej ta na | Neesh | Ong ka gay | Ta he, ja | + | | | tan ao | nay day | idel | + | Thirty | Nisway | Neo | Tao gay | | + | | mittana | meatanao | nay day | | + | Forty | Neo mittana | &c. | Deo gay | | + | | | | nay day | | + | Fifty | Nanan mittana | &c. | | | + | Sixty | Nigot asway | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Seventy | Nish was way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Eighty | Shwas way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Ninety | Sang mittana | | | | + | One | Ni goot wack | Me ta tin | Kay nay tay | Itla honan | + | hundred | | mittanao | | nanana. | + | How often | Anin. tas | Tan mat | Tan ay tien | Itla hon | + | | ink | ta to | | eeltay. | + | How many | Anin ain | Tan ay | Tan ay | Itla elday. | + | | tas ink | ta tik | tien | | + | How long | Anapé apin | Ta ispi | A shay | Itla hon | + | since | aijo | aspin | doo yay | il tao. | + | When | Anapé | Ta is pi | Dee ad | Itlao. | + | | | | doo yay | | + | To-day | Nongum | Anootch kee | Doo jay | Deerd sin | + | | kajigack | je gak | nee ay | o gay. | + | To-morrow | Wabunk | Wa bakay | Ghad ay zay | Campay. | + | Yesterday | Chen[=a]ngo | Ta goosh | Ghagh ganno | Hozud | + | | | ick | | singay. | + | This year | Nongum egee | Anootch | Doo la | Do uz sin e | + | | wang | egee | | gay. | + | | | kee wang | | | + | This | Wà á. | Awa pee | Teeay tee | Dirius | + | month | Ke[=e]sis | shum | za | a gay. | + | A man | Ininé | N[=a] bay o | Taz eu | Dinnay you. | + | A woman | Ikway | Isk way o | Iay quay | Tzay quay. | + | A girl | Ikway says | Isk way | Id az oo | Ed dinna | + | | | shish | | gay. | + | A boy | Quee we says | Na bay | Taz yuz é | Dinnay yoo | + | | | shish | | azay. | + | Inter- | Oten way ta | On tway ta | Nao day ay | Dinnay tee | + | preter | ma gay | ma gay o | | ghaltay. | + | Trader | Ata way | Ataway | Meeoo tay | Ma kad ray. | + | | ini niu | ininiu | | | + | Moose- | Moze | Mozwa | Tlay tchin | Tunnehee | + | Deer | | | tay | hee. | + | Rein-Deer | Attick | Attick | May tzee | Ed hun. | + | Beaver | Amick | Amisk | Tza | Tza. | + | Dog | Ani moosh | Attim | Tlee | Tlee. | + | Rabbit | Waboose | Waboose | Kagh | Kagh. | + | Bear | Maqua | Masqua | Zus | Zus. | + | Wolf | Ma ing an | Mahigan | Tshee o nay | Noo nee yay. | + | Fox | Wa goosh | Ma kay | E. yay thay | Nag hee | + | | | shish | | dthay. | + | I hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni m[=a] | Na o zed | Naz uz ay. | + | | ay | tchin | | | + | Thou | Ki ge oz | Ki ma tchin | Nodzed | Nan ul zay. | + | huntest | ay | | | | + | He hunts | Ge oz ay | Ma tchio | Nazin zed | Nal zay. | + | We hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni ma | Naze zedeo | Na il zay. | + | | ay min | tchinan | | | + | Ye hunt | Ki ge | Ki ma | Nazin zedeo | Nal zin | + | | oz aim | tchinawao | | al day. | + | They hunt | Ge oz ay | Matchiwog | Owadié tzed | Na hal zay. | + | | wok | | | | + | I kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mi na | Uz éay gha | Zil tir. | + | | gay | hon | | | + | Thou | Ki ne ta | Ki mi na | Uz éay ghan | Zil nil tir. | + | killest | gay | hon | | | + | He kills | Ne ta gay | Minaho | Ud zeay gha | Tla in il | + | | | | | tir. | + | We kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mina | Uz ugho-ghay | Tla in il | + | | gay min | honan | uzin | dir. | + | Ye kill | Ki ne ta | Kim in a | Uz ugho ghay | Zee ool dir. | + | | gaim | honawa | uzin | | + | They kill | Ne ta | Minahowog | Utza ghay | Tla in | + | | gay wok | | agho | il tay. | + | I laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap in | Utzay rad | Naz-lo. | + | | | | lotsh | | + | Thou | Ki baap | Ki baap in | Utlint lotsh | Na-id-lo. | + | laughest | | | | | + | He laughs | Baapé | Baapio | Utroz lotsh | Nad-lo. | + | We laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap | Utlo wod | Tlo | + | | imin | in an | lotshay | a-ee-el-tee.| + | Ye laugh | Ki baapim | Ki baapin | Tlodzud | Tlo gha | + | | | a wao | udzee | ee-ol-tee. | + | They | Baap ewog | Baapiwog | Tlodzud | Tlo-gha- | + | laugh | | | udzee | ee-el-tee. | + | I trade | Ni da ta | Ni da d[=a] | Mata oz lay | Naz nee. | + | | way | wan | | | + | Thou | Ki da ta | Ki da d[=a] | Mata an | Na el nee. | + | tradest | way | wan | eelay | | + | He trades | Ataway | Atawayo | Kita od | Na el nee. | + | | | | eenla | | + | We trade | Ni da ta | Nin da t[=a]| Mata ad oz | Na-da-ell | + | | way min | wan an | id la | nee. | + | Ye trade | Ki da ta | Ki da t[=a] | Mata a la | Na ool nee. | + | | way min | wan o wa | ozayo | | + | They trade| A ta way | Ata way wok | Ma t[=a] a | Eghon a el | + | | wok | | leeay la | nee. | + | I fight | Ni me gaz | Ni no ti | Magad ay a | Din[=i] gun | + | | | ni gan | | as tir. | + | Thou | Ki me gaz | Ki no ti | Magad osee | Dini gun a | + | fightest | | ni gan | ya la | ee dthir | + | He fights | Mi gazo | No ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gay o | | | + | We fight | Ni me | Nino ti ni | -- | -- | + | | gazomin | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye fight | Ki me gazom | Ki no ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gan a wao | | | + | They | Mi guz | Notini gay | -- | -- | + | fight | o wog | wok | | | + | I set | Ni bug-é | Ni bug-e | Zoo meet la | Tloo e | + | a net | ta wa | ta wan | uz loo | kanistan. | + | Thou | Ki bug-e | Ki bug-e | Too meet | Tloo é kan | + | settest | ta wa | ta wan | lan itlo | e than. | + | a net | | | | | + | He sets | Bug-e ta wa | Bug-e ta | Ta eet loon | Tloo e kan | + | a net | | wao | | ethan loay.| + | We set | Ni bug-e ta | Ni bug-e ta | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | wa min | w[=a]nan | hoon | oodthan. | + | Ye set | Ni bug-é | Ki bug-e | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | ta wam | ta-wan a | uz éo | eehtan. | + | | | wao | | | + | They set | Bug-e ta | Bug-e-ta-wa | Too milt at | -- | + | a net | w[=a] wog | wog | la oozoon | | + | I sail | Ni be mash | Ni be | -- | -- | + | | | mashin | | | + | Thou | Ki be mash | Ki be | -- | -- | + | sailest | | mashin | | | + | He sails | Bi mash é | Be mash eo | -- | -- | + | We sail | Ni bi | Ni bi | -- | -- | + | | mishimin | mashinan | | | + | Ye sail | Ki bi | Ki bi mashin| -- | -- | + | | mash im | a wao | | | + | They sail | Bi mash | Be mash | -- | -- | + | | i wog | i wog | | | + | I sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni ban | Zus tee ay | Thee id ghee.| + | Thou | Ki ni ba | Ki ni ban | Zin tee ay | Theend ghee. | + | sleepest| | | | | + | He sleeps | Ni ba | Ni ba o | Na gho tee | Thad ghee. | + | | | | azay | | + | We sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni b[=a]n| Zut ié tsho | Theed | + | | min | an | | gh[=a]z | + | Ye sleep | Ki ni bam | Ki ni ban | Tsuz ié | Thood ghaz | + | | | [=a] wao | tsho | | + | They | Ni ba wog | Ni ba wog | Tsugh ien | Hay ud | + | sleep | | | tiez | ghaz | + | I drink | Ni minik way | Ni minik wan| Uzto | Haysta | + | Thou | Ki minik way | Ki minik | Nadho | Nad-ha | + | drinkest | | wan | | | + | He drinks | Minik way | Minik way o | Ughiehedo | Ee ed ha | + | We drink | Ni minik | Ni minik | May ee ta | Heel tell | + | | way min | w[=a]nan | | | + | Ye drink | Ki mink waim | Ki minik | May lee | Hool tell | + | | | wan[=a]wao| ta la | | + | They | Minikway wog | Minikway wok| May atta | He el tell | + | drink | | | | | + | I want to | Ni we | Ni we | O ghoz to | Oz ta in | + | drink | miniquay | miniquan | | is tan | + | Drink | Minik quaine | Minik quay | Llhad ho | Ned ha | + | Eat | Wiss in | Mee tisso | In tzits | Zinhud hee | + | Sleep | Ni b[=a]n | Ni ba | Njuz ti ay | Dthin ghee | + | Go away | Eko k[=a]n | Awiss tay | E yow é | E you | + | | | | tshay | issay | + | Come here | Undass is | Ass-tum | Tee ad zay | E youk | + | | han | | | uz ay | + | Tell him | Win da ma o | Wi da ma o | Tee ay tin | Hal in nee | + | | | | day | | + | Trade | At[=a]waine | Ataway | Tee ay gho | Na il nee | + | | | | tsho | | + | Whence | Andé | Tanté way | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | do you | wentchipai | to tay | dzin aghon | gho adzee | + | come? | an | | dee ay | an adee | + | Where | Andé aish | Tanté ay to | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | are you | [=a]e an | tay an | de [=a]za | hee hee | + | going? | | | | ya | + | Be quick | Wee weep é | Kee-ee pee | Dzag ghay | Ee-gha | + | | tan | | | | + | I shoot | Ni bas giss | Ni bas giss | A jes tee o | A yous | + | | é gay | é gan | | kay | + | Thou | Ki bas giss | Ki bas giss | A tee tshe | Ahil kay | + | shootest| é gay | é gan | etsh | | + | He shoots | B[=a]s giss | Bas giss | Agha tee et | Ahil guth | + | | e gay | e gay-o | yetsh | | + | We shoot | Ni bas gisse | Ni bas gisse| Ateed yetsh | Ahel keeth | + | | gay min | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye | Ki bas gisse | Ki bas giss | Atad yetsh | Er. ool | + | shoot | game | é gan [=a]| | keeth. | + | | | wao | | | + | They | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss é | Aza du ghad | Tay ar el | + | shoot | gay wog | gay wog | yetsh | keeth. | + | A Gun | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss é | Tié yaz o o | Tel git | + | | gan | gan | | hay. | + | Powder | Makatay | Kas. ki tay | Al aizay | Tel ge | + | | | o | | gonna. | + | Shot | She shep ass | Nisk ass in | Noo tay | Telt hay. | + | | nin | ee a | ad-o o | | + | Give me | Meesh ish in | Mee an | Tes yay | Daz ee. | + | I give | Ki mee nin | Ki mee | Nan uz lay | Na gha on | + | you | | ni tin | | in in nee. | + | Look | In [=a] bin | Et[=a] bi | Ag gan eetha | Ghon el lee. | + | Wait | Pee ton | Pay ho | Ad oog-a. | Gad day. | + | Tobacco | Na say ma | Na stay mao | Aday ka yazé | Sel tooe. | + | Pipe | Poagan | Os poagan | Tsee ay | Dthay. | + | Net | Assup | A he apee | Too me | Dtka bill. | + | Fish | Kee k[=o] | Kee no | Tloo | Tloo-ay. | + | | | shay o | | | + | Flesh | Wee-ass | Wee ass | Ad zun | Berr. | + | River | See pé | See pé | Za ghay | D[=a]z. | + | Lake | Sa ka i gan | Sa ka i gan | Meet hay | Nad koo al | + | | | | | ta. | + | Water | Nee pee | Nee pee | Too | Too. | + | Summer | Nee been | Nee been |Ad o lay | Seen nay. | + | Winter | Pay poon | Pay pun | Ealk hay ay | Gh[=a] e | + | | | | | yay. | + | Spring | See goan | Me as gamin | Do o | Tloo guth. | + | Autumn | Tag w[=a] gin | Tag w[=a] | Edoo | Ghao ud | + | | | gin | aidlosin | azay. | + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service +in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + +***** This file should be named 16864-8.txt or 16864-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/8/6/16864/ + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory + Volume II. (of 2) + +Author: John M'lean + +Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + + + + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + +<h1>NOTES</h1> + +<h4>OF A</h4> + +<h2>TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE</h2> + +<h4>IN THE</h4> + +<h1>HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.</h1> + + +<h3>BY JOHN M‘LEAN.</h3> + + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h3>VOL. II.</h3> + + +<h4>LONDON:</h4> + +<h4>RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,</h4> + +<h4>Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</h4> + +<h4>1849.</h4> + +<hr /> + +<center>LONDON:</center> +<center>R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.</center> +<hr /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagev" id="pagev"></a>[pg v]</span> + + + + +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h3>THE SECOND VOLUME.</h3> + + +<h4><a href="#I">CHAPTER I.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#I1">Journey to Norway House</a> <a href="#page9">9</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#II">CHAPTER II.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#II1">Arrival at York Factory</a>—<a href="#II2">Its Situation</a>—<a href="#II3">Climate</a>—<a href="#II4">Natives</a>—<a href="#II5">Rein-Deer</a>—<a href="#II6">Voyage +to Ungava</a>—<a href="#II7">Incidents of the Voyage</a>—<a href="#II8">Arrival +at Ungava</a>—<a href="#II9">Situation and Aspect</a> <a href="#page16">16</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#III">CHAPTER III.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#III1">Exploring Expedition through the Interior of Labrador</a>—<a href="#III2">Difficulties</a>—<a href="#III3">Deer +Hunt</a>—<a href="#III4">Indian Gluttony</a>—<a href="#III5">Description +of the Country</a>—<a href="#III6">Provisions run short</a>—<a href="#III7">Influenza</a> <a href="#page32">32</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#IV1">Distressing Bereavement</a>—<a href="#IV2">Exploring Party</a>—<a href="#IV3">their Report</a>—<a href="#IV4">Arrival +at Esquimaux</a>—<a href="#IV5">Establish Posts</a>—<a href="#IV6">Pounding Rein-Deer</a>—<a href="#IV7">Expedition +up George's River</a>—<a href="#IV8">Its Difficulties</a>—<a href="#IV9">Hamilton +River</a>—<a href="#IV10">Discover a stupendous Cataract</a>—<a href="#IV11">Return +by George's River to the Sea</a>—<a href="#IV12">Sudden Storm and miraculous +Escape</a> <a href="#page60">60</a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a>[pg vi]</span> + + +<h4><a href="#V">CHAPTER V.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#V1">Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait +on a Raft</a>—<a href="#V2">Despatch from the Governor</a>—<a href="#V3">Distress of the +Esquimaux</a>—<a href="#V4">Forward Provisions to Mr. E——. Return +of the Party</a>—<a href="#V5">Their deplorable Condition</a> <a href="#page81">81</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#VI1">Trip to Esquimaux Bay</a>—<a href="#VI2">Governor's Instructions</a>—<a href="#VI3">My Report +to the Committee</a>—<a href="#VI4">Recommend the Abandonment +of Ungava Settlement</a>—<a href="#VI5">Success of the Arctic Expedition +conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson</a>—<a href="#VI6">Return by Sea +to Fort Chimo</a>—<a href="#VI7">Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the +Ungava River</a>—<a href="#VI8">Impolitic Measure of the Governor</a>—<a href="#VI9">Consequent +Distress at the Post</a> <a href="#page88">88</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#VII1">Another exploring Expedition</a>—<a href="#VII2">My Promotion</a>—<a href="#VII3">Winter +at Chimo</a>—<a href="#VII4">Obtain permission to visit Britain</a>—<a href="#VII5">Ungava +abandoned</a> <a href="#page98">98</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h4> + +<h5>GENERAL REMARKS.</h5> + +<p><a href="#VIII1">Climate of Ungava</a>—<a href="#VIII2">Aurora Borealis</a>—<a href="#VIII3">Soil</a>—<a href="#VIII4">Vegetable +Productions</a>—<a href="#VIII5">Animals</a>—<a href="#VIII6">Birds</a>—<a href="#VIII7">Fish</a>—<a href="#VIII8">Geological Features</a> <a href="#page102">102</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#IX1">The Nascopies</a>—<a href="#IX2">Their Religion</a>—<a href="#IX3">Manners and +Customs</a>—<a href="#IX4">Clothing</a>—<a href="#IX5">Marriage</a>—<a href="#IX6">Community of Goods</a> <a href="#page118">118</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#X">CHAPTER X.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#X1">The Esquimaux</a>—<a href="#X2">Probable Origin</a>—<a href="#X3">Identity of Language +from Labrador to Behring's Straits</a>—<a href="#X4">Their +Amours</a>—<a href="#X5">Marriages</a>—<a href="#X6">Religion</a>—<a href="#X7">Treatment of Parents</a>—<a href="#X8">Anecdote</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a>[pg vii]</span>—<a href="#X9">Mode of +Preserving Meat</a>—<a href="#X10">Amusements</a>—<a href="#X11">Dress</a>—<a href="#X12">The +Igloe, or Snow-House</a>—<a href="#X13">Their Cuisine</a>—<a href="#X14">Dogs</a>—<a href="#X15">The Sledge</a>—<a href="#X16">Caiak, +or Canoe</a>—<a href="#X17">Ouimiàk, or Boat</a>—<a href="#X18">Implements</a>—<a href="#X19">Stature</a> <a href="#page131">131</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XI1">Labrador</a>—<a href="#XI2">Esquimaux Half-Breeds</a>—<a href="#XI3">Moravian Brethren</a>—<a href="#XI4">European +Inhabitants</a>—<a href="#XI5">Their Virtues</a>—<a href="#XI6">Climate</a>—<a href="#XI7">Anecdote</a> <a href="#page155">155</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XII1">Voyage to England</a>—<a href="#XII2">Arrival at Plymouth</a>—<a href="#XII3">Reflections</a>—<a href="#XII4">Arrive +at the place of my Nativity</a>—<a href="#XII5">Changes</a>—<a href="#XII6">Depopulation</a>—<a href="#XII7">London</a>—<a href="#XII8">The +Thames</a>—<a href="#XII9">Liverpool</a>—<a href="#XII10">Embark for +New York</a>—<a href="#XII11">Arrival</a>—<a href="#XII12">The Americans</a>—<a href="#XII13">English and American +Tourists</a>—<a href="#XII14">England and America</a>—<a href="#XII15">New York</a> <a href="#page167">167</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XIII1">Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer</a>—<a href="#XIII2">The +Passengers</a>—<a href="#XIII3">Arrival at Albany</a>—<a href="#XIII4">Journey to Montreal</a> <a href="#page187">187</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XIV1">Embark for the North</a>—<a href="#XIV2">Passengers Arrive at Fort William</a>—<a href="#XIV3">Despatch +from Governor</a>—<a href="#XIV4">Appointed to McKenzie's +River District</a>—<a href="#XIV5">Portage La Loche</a>—<a href="#XIV6">Adventure on Great +Slave Lake</a>—<a href="#XIV7">Arrive at Fort Simpson</a>—<a href="#XIV8">Productions of the +Post</a> <a href="#page193">193</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XV1">Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library</a>—<a href="#XV2">Alleged +Kindness of the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians</a>—<a href="#XV3">And +Generosity</a>—<a href="#XV4">Support of Missionaries</a>—<a href="#XV5">Support withdrawn</a>—<a href="#XV6">Preference +of Roman Catholics</a>—<a href="#XV7">The North-West +Company</a>—<a href="#XV8">Conduct of a British Peer</a>—<a href="#XV9">Rivalry of the +Companies</a>—<a href="#XV10">Coalition</a>—<a href="#XV11">Charges against the North-West +Company refuted</a> <a href="#page207">207</a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a>[pg viii]</span> + + +<h4><a href="#XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XVI1">Arrival of Mr. Lefroy</a>—<a href="#XVI2">Voyage to the Lower Posts of +the McKenzie</a>—<a href="#XVI3">Avalanche</a>—<a href="#XVI4">Incidents of the Voyage</a>—<a href="#XVI5">Voyage +to Portage La Loche</a>—<a href="#XVI6">Arbitrary and unjust +Conduct of the Governor</a>—<a href="#XVI7">Despotism</a>—<a href="#XVI8">My Reply to the +Governor</a> <a href="#page228">228</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XVII1">Situation of Fort Simpson</a>—<a href="#XVII2">Climate</a>—<a href="#XVII3">The Liard</a>—<a href="#XVII4">Effects of +the Spring Floods</a>—<a href="#XVII5">Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's River +District</a>—<a href="#XVII6">Peculiarities</a>—<a href="#XVII7">Distress through +Famine</a>—<a href="#XVII8">Cannibalism</a>—<a href="#XVII9">Anecdote</a>—<a href="#XVII10">Fort +Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity +of M. Dechambault</a>—<a href="#XVII11">Discoveries of Mr. Campbell</a> <a href="#page241">241</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XVIII1">Mr. McPherson assumes the Command</a>—<a href="#XVIII2">I am appointed +to Fort Liard, but exchange for Great Slave Lake</a>—<a href="#XVIII3">The +Indians</a>—<a href="#XVIII4">Resolve to quit the Service</a>—<a href="#XVIII5">Phenomena of +the Lake</a> <a href="#page255">255</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XIX1">Reflections</a>—<a href="#XIX2">Prospects in the Service</a>—<a href="#XIX3">Decrease of the +Game</a>—<a href="#XIX4">Company's Policy in consequence</a>—<a href="#XIX5">Appeal of the +Indians</a>—<a href="#XIX6">Means of Preserving them, and improving their +Condition</a>—<a href="#XIX7">Abolition of the Charter</a>—<a href="#XIX8">Objections +answered</a> <a href="#page260">260</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XX1">Wesleyan Mission</a>—<a href="#XX2">Mr. Evans</a>—<a href="#XX3">Encouragement given by +the Company</a>—<a href="#XX4">Mr. Evans' Exertions among the Indians</a>—<a href="#XX5">Causes +of the Withdrawal of the Company's Support</a>—<a href="#XX6">Calumnious +Charges against Mr. E.</a>—<a href="#XX7">Mr. E. goes to England</a>—<a href="#XX8">His +sudden Death</a> <a href="#page278">278</a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pageix" id="pageix"></a>[pg ix]</span> + + +<h4><a href="#XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></h4> + +<h5>SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.</h5> + +<p><a href="#XXI1">Red River</a>—<a href="#XXI2">Soils</a>—<a href="#XXI3">Climate</a>—<a href="#XXI4">Productions</a>—<a href="#XXI5">Settlement of +Red River through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders</a>—<a href="#XXI6">Collision +between the North-West and Hudson's Bay +Companies</a>—<a href="#XXI7">Inundation</a>—<a href="#XXI8">Its Effects</a>—<a href="#XXI9">French Half-Breeds</a>—<a href="#XXI10">Buffalo +Hunting</a>—<a href="#XXI11">English Half-Breeds</a>—<a href="#XXI12">Indians</a>—<a href="#XXI13">Churches</a>—<a href="#XXI14">Schools</a>—<a href="#XXI15">Stores</a>—<a href="#XXI16">Market +for Produce</a>—<a href="#XXI17">Communication by Lakes</a> <a href="#page289">289</a></p> + + +<h4><a href="#XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></h4> + +<p><a href="#XXII1">Sir G. Simpson</a>—<a href="#XXII2">His Administration</a> <a href="#page311">311</a></p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p><a href="#vocabulary"><span class="sc">Vocabulary</span> of the <span class="sc">Principal Indian Dialects</span> in use among +the Tribes in the Hudson's Bay Territory</a> <a href="#page323">323</a></p> + +<hr /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" id="page9"></a>[pg 9]</span> + + + + +<h1>NOTES</h1> + +<h4>OF A</h4> + +<h2>TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE</h2> + +<h4>IN THE</h4> + +<h1>HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.</h1> + +<hr /> + + + + +<h2><a name="I" id="I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE.</h3> + + +<p><a name="I1" id="I1"></a>I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of +February, and arrived at Fort Alexandria on the +8th of March. Although the upper parts of the +district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared +in the immediate neighbourhood of the +establishment, and everything wore the pleasing aspect of spring.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page10" id="page10"></a>[pg 10]</span> + +<p>Mr. F—— was about to remove to a new post +he had erected on the west bank of the river. +Horses were provided for us to perform the +journey overland to Okanagan. We left on the +13th; on the 15th we encamped on the borders of +Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm +in the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent +country presented a beautiful scene; the +spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the horizon +and presenting a rugged outline enveloped +in snow—the intervening space of wooded hill and +dale clothed in the fresh verdure of the season; +and the innumerable low points and islands in the +lake contributing to the variety of the landscape.</p> + +<p>Hitherto we had found much snow on the +ground, and our progress in consequence was very +slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever +they could pick during the night, or when we +halted for our meals, began to falter, so that we +were under the necessity of stopping to allow +them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 18th we came in sight +of Kamloops' Lake, which, to my great surprise, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" id="page11"></a>[pg 11]</span> +was not only clear of ice, but the valley in which +it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while +the heights on the other side were still covered +with snow. The valley looks to the south, and +is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring high grounds.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two +Canadians in charge, Mr. B—— having set off a +few days before for the dépôt at Fort Vancouver. +We met with a cordial reception from his men, +who entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes +for supper; and next day we bountifully partook +of the same delicacies, my prejudice against this +fare having completely vanished.</p> + +<p>Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence +of Thompson's River and its north branch; the +Indians attached to it are a tribe of the Atnahs. +Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing +animals, nor are there many animals of the larger +kind to be found; they however find subsistence +in the variety of edible roots which the country +affords. They have the character of being honest, +quiet, and well-disposed towards the whites. As +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" id="page12"></a>[pg 12]</span> +soon as the young women attain the age of +puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion +which the young men understand without explanation. +They also dig holes in the ground, which +they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of +their industry; and when they are in a certain +state they separate from the community and live +in small huts, which they build for themselves. +Should any one unwittingly touch them, or an +article belonging to them, during their indisposition, +he is considered unclean; and must purify +himself by fasting for a day, and then jumping +over a fire prepared by <i>pure</i> hands.</p> + +<p>We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling +about twenty miles found the ground covered +with snow, which increased in depth as we advanced. +The track left by Mr. B——'s party was of great service to us.</p> + +<p>We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan +Lake, where we found a small camp of natives +nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures +passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed +as much of our provisions amongst them +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" id="page13"></a>[pg 13]</span> +as we could possibly spare. This encampment +afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as +I had ever met with; a snow-storm raged without +intermission till daylight, when we set out so completely +benumbed that we could not mount our +horses till we had put the blood in circulation by walking.</p> + +<p>We overtook Mr. B—— on the 25th, his +horses completely jaded and worn out by the +fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the +snow indeed would have utterly precluded travelling +had he not adopted the precaution of driving +a number of young horses before the loaded horses to make a track.</p> + +<p>The country through which we have travelled +for the last few days is exceedingly rugged, and +possesses few features to interest the traveller.</p> + +<p>We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the +28th, situated on the left bank of the Columbia +River. The ground was still covered with snow to +the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep +in the course of the winter—an extraordinary +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" id="page14"></a>[pg 14]</span> +circumstance, as there generally falls so little snow +in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain +nearly all winter. The Indians are designated +Okanagans, and speak a dialect of the Atnah. +Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, +foxes, &c.; they subsist on salmon and roots.</p> + +<p>Messrs. F—— and D—— arrived from Fort +Vancouver on the 7th of April, and we embarked +on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring servants. +Mr. B—— accompanied us, having obtained +permission to cross the Rocky Mountains.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we +met with a most friendly reception from a warmhearted +Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding +to the dépôt in charge of the accounts +of the Columbia department generally remain +here a few days to put a finishing hand to these +accounts—an operation which occupied us till +the 22d, when we re-embarked, leaving Messrs. +D—— and B—— behind; the former being +remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, +having changed his mind, in an evil hour for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" id="page15"></a>[pg 15]</span> +himself, returned to his old quarters; where he +was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian +who had lost his father, and thought that the +company of his old trader would solace him for +the absence of his children.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" id="page16"></a>[pg 16]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#II1">ARRIVAL AT YORK FACTORY</a>—<a href="#II2">ITS +SITUATION</a>—<a href="#II3">CLIMATE</a>—<a href="#II4">NATIVES</a>—<a href="#II5">REIN-DEER</a>—<a href="#II6">VOYAGE +TO UNGAVA</a>—<a href="#II7">INCIDENTS OF +THE VOYAGE</a>—<a href="#II8">ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA</a>—<a href="#II9">SITUATION AND ASPECT.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="II1" id="II1"></a>I arrived at York Factory, the dépôt of the +Northern department, early in July. This establishment +presents a more respectable appearance +than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, +and reflects no small credit on the talents and +taste of him who planned, and partly executed, +the existing improvements, all which have been +effected since the coalition. When Mr. McT. +first assumed the command, the buildings were of +the most wretched description—the apartments +had more the appearance of cells for criminals, +than of rooms for gentlemen.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" id="page17"></a>[pg 17]</span> + +<p><a name="II2" id="II2"></a>The yielding nature of the swampy ground on +which the buildings were to be erected rendering +it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the object +was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, +and at a great expense; and the present commodious +buildings were commenced, but not finished +by the projector. Other improvements have been +made since then, so that they afford every comfort +and convenience that could be expected in so +unfavourable a situation.</p> + +<p>The dépôt is at present under the charge of a +chief factor, assisted by a chief trader, a surgeon, +and two clerks. Here there is always a sufficient +supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet +the demand of the trade for two years—a wise +precaution, as in the event of any accident happening +to prevent the vessel from reaching her +destination, the trade would not be interrupted. +The very emergency thus provided for occurred +last autumn; the ship, after dropping anchor in +her usual mooring ground, was compelled by +stress of weather to bear away for England, after +loosing her anchors, and sustaining other serious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" id="page18"></a>[pg 18]</span> +damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward +event, the gentlemen in charge of the different +districts set off for the interior with their outfits complete.</p> + +<p><a name="II3" id="II3"></a>The climate, although extremely disagreeable, +is not considered unhealthy. In summer the extremes +of heat and cold are experienced in the +course of a few hours; in the morning you may be +wearing nankeen, and before noon, duffle. Were +the heat to continue for a sufficient length of time +to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment +could not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of +life, through the mephitic exhalations from the +surrounding swamps. The ground, however, +seldom thaws more than eighteen inches, and the +climate therefore is never affected by them to +such a degree as to become unhealthy.</p> + +<p>One of Mr. McT——'s most beneficial improvements +was to clear the swamps surrounding the +factory of the brushwood with which they were +thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a +great measure relieved from the torture to which +they were formerly exposed from the mosquitoes. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" id="page19"></a>[pg 19]</span> +These vampires are not so troublesome in the +cleared ground, but whoever dares to intrude +on their domain pays dearly for his temerity. +Every exposed part of the body is immediately +covered with them; defence is out of the question; +the death of one is avenged by the stings +of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the +unequal contest is soon ended by the flight of the +tormented party to his quarters, whither he is +pursued to his very door.</p> + +<p>There seems to be no foundation for the +opinion generally entertained that the natives do +not suffer from the stings of these insects. The +incrustation of filth with which their bodies are +covered undoubtedly affords some protection, the +skin not being so easily pierced; but no incrustation, +however thick, can be a defence against +the attacks of myriads; and in fact, the natives +complain as loudly of the mosquitoes as the whites.</p> + +<p><a name="II4" id="II4"></a>The Indians of this quarter are denominated +Swampies, a tribe of the Cree nation, whose +language they speak with but little variation, and +in their manners and customs there is a great +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" id="page20"></a>[pg 20]</span> +similarity. But the Swampies are a degenerate +race, reduced by famine and disease to a few +families; and these have been still farther reduced +by an epidemic which raged among them this summer. +They were attacked by it immediately +on their return from the interior with the produce +of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes +of being benefited by medical advice and +attendance. Their hopes, however, were not +realized; they were left entirely in charge of +a young man without experience and without +humanity; and the disease was unchecked. Every +day the death of some poor wretch was made +known to us by the firing of guns, by which the +survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened +away from the souls of their departed friends.</p> + +<p><a name="II5" id="II5"></a>Not many years ago this part of the country +was periodically visited by immense herds of +rein-deer; at present there is scarcely one to be +found. Whether their disappearance is owing +to their having changed the course of their +migrations, or to their destruction by the natives, +who waylaid them on their passage, and killed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" id="page21"></a>[pg 21]</span> +them by hundreds, is a question not easily +determined. It may be they have only forsaken +this part of the country for a time, and may yet +return in as great numbers as ever: be that as +it may, the present want to which the Indians +are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of +those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded +them food and clothing. Their subsistence is +now very precarious; derived principally from +snaring rabbits and fishing; and rabbits also fail periodically.</p> + +<p>Their fare during summer, however, soon +obliterates the remembrance of the privations +of winter: fish is then found in every lake, and +wild-fowl during the moulting season become +an easy prey; while young ducks and geese are +approached in canoes, and are destroyed with +arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired +the use of their wings. The white man similarly +situated would undoubtedly think of the long +winter he had passed in want, and would provide +for the next while he could;—so much foresight, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" id="page22"></a>[pg 22]</span> +however, does not belong to the Indian character.</p> + +<p>Fishing and hunting for the establishment +affords employment to a few Indians during +summer, and is an object of competition among +them, on account of the incomparable gratification +it affords—grog drinking—to which no earthly +bliss can be compared in the Indian's estimation. +To find the Company serving out rum to the +natives as payment for their services in this +remote quarter, created the utmost surprise in +my mind: no excuse can be advanced which +can justify the unhallowed practice, when the +management of the native population is left +entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued? +Strange to say, while Indians were to be seen +rolling drunk about the establishment, an order +of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of +ardent spirits in any quantity exceeding two +gallons to the Company's officers of whatever +rank, with the view of preventing the demoralization of the natives!</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" id="page23"></a>[pg 23]</span> + +<p>Most of the natives have a smattering of +English, and are said to be a quiet, harmless +race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote +situation, and impoverished country protect them +from the hostile inroads of neighbouring tribes; +hence the tame and pacific demeanour by which +they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often +retires to rest without a morsel to eat for himself +or family, and that for days together; yet he +is under no apprehension from his enemies, and +enjoys his night's rest undisturbed; whereas, the +warrior of the plain, while he revels in abundance, +seldom retires to rest without apprehension; the +hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his +midnight slumber, either to be butchered himself, +or to hear the dying groans of his family +while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of +man with good and evil in every condition, +whether civilized or savage.</p> + +<p><a name="II6" id="II6"></a>Every preparation for our departure being +now completed, I took leave of Fort York, its +fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page24" id="page24"></a>[pg 24]</span> +We embarked on the 22d of August, in a brig +that had fortunately escaped the mishaps of the +other vessels last autumn; and after being delayed +in port by adverse winds till the 26th, we finally +stood out to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert +just come in. The fields of ice, that had been +observed a few days previously, having now +entirely disappeared, the captain concluded that +the passage was clear for him, and accordingly +steered for the south. He had not proceeded +far in this direction, however, when we fell in +with such quantities of ice as to interrupt our +passage; but we still continued to force our +way through. Convinced at length of the futility +of the attempt, we altered our course to a directly +opposite point, standing to the north, until we +came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away +for the strait, making Mansfield Island on the +7th of September. We encountered much stream +ice on our passage, from which no material injury +was sustained; although the continual knocking +of our rather frail vessel against the ice created +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page25" id="page25"></a>[pg 25]</span> +a good deal of alarm, from the effect the collision +produced, shaking her violently from stem to stern.</p> + +<p>We were thus passing rapidly through the +straits without experiencing any accident worthy +of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one +evening, how soon he expected to make the +Island of Akpatok. He replied, "To-morrow +morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest +about ten, P.M., and I had not yet fallen asleep, +when I heard an unusual bustle on deck, and one +of the men rushing down to the captain's room +to call him up. I instantly dressed and went +on deck, where I soon learned the cause;—a dark +object, scarcely distinguishable through the fog +and gloom of night, was pointed out to me on +our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which +we had been rushing, propelled by wind and +current, at the rate of thirteen knots an hour, +when it was observed. A few moments more, +and we had been launched into eternity. Had +the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed for a +minute, or had the slightest accident occurred +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page26" id="page26"></a>[pg 26]</span> +to prevent the vessel from wearing at the very +instant, our doom was certain.</p> + +<p>The western extremity of the Island of +Akpatok, terminating in a high promontory +seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's +edge, formed the danger we had so providentially +escaped. Next day we saw the dismal spot in +all its horrors. The island was still partially +covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation +were discernible; but a fresh breeze springing up +we soon lost sight of this desolate spot, and made +the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about +an hour after sunset. The captain was a perfect +stranger on the coast, and had but a very imperfect +chart to guide him; he nevertheless stood +boldly in for the land, and fortunately discovered +the mouth of the river, which we entered as +darkness closed in upon us.</p> + +<p><a name="II7" id="II7"></a>By this time the breeze, that had carried us on +so rapidly, increased to a gale, so that if we had +not entered the river so opportunely, the consequences +might have been serious. We were +utterly unacquainted with the coast, which presented +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page27" id="page27"></a>[pg 27]</span> +a thousand dangers in the shape of rocks +and breakers, that were observable in every +direction, as far as the eye could reach to seaward; +we therefore congratulated ourselves on +our fancied security—for it was only fancied, +as will presently appear. We kept firing as we +approached the land, with the view of apprizing +the people of the post, who were directed to await +us at the mouth of the river. No sound was +heard in reply until we had advanced a few miles +up the river, when we were gratified with hearing +the report of muskets, and presently several +torches were visible blazing a little ahead.</p> + +<p>The night was uncommonly dark, the banks +of the river being scarcely perceptible; and +although it appeared to me we were much nearer +then than prudence would warrant, we still drew +nearer, when our progress was suddenly arrested. +The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock, and +heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown +on her beam-ends. Swinging round, however, with +the force of the current, she soon got off again; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page28" id="page28"></a>[pg 28]</span> +and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped +anchor. Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came +alongside in their canoes, who gave us to understand +by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the post.</p> + +<p>Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, +our Esquimaux made signs to weigh anchor, +which being done, one of them took his station +by the side of the helmsman, and never moved +a moment from the spot, pointing out the deep +channel, with which he appeared well acquainted; +although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted +in his countenance, lest any accident should +happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, +when he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep +groan; he managed so well, however, that he +brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall. +From 10 A.M. until late in the evening we had +only advanced twenty-five miles, although we +pressed against the current with top-gallant sails +set and a strong wind in our favour.</p> + +<p><a name="II8" id="II8"></a>Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page29" id="page29"></a>[pg 29]</span> +and myself determined on rowing up to the post, +where we arrived about four, P.M. I need scarcely +say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people +so seldom visited by strangers, in a situation +which had no regular communication as yet with +any other part of the world.</p> + +<p>I was much gratified by the appearance of +every thing about the establishment. The buildings +had just been finished with materials sent out +from England, through the considerate and kindly +feeling of the Committee, whose compassion had +been excited by the accounts they had heard of +the miserable hovels in which the people were +lodged when the place was first settled. After +passing an hour or two examining the fort, (as it is +called <i>par excellence</i>,) we returned to the ship, and +weighing anchor at an early hour the next morning, +(11th September,) we were soon brought up +to the establishment, and landed without loss of +time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us +no small consolation, however, to reflect that we +had no further cause to apprehend danger from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page30" id="page30"></a>[pg 30]</span> +icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us +greater comfort as to living and accommodation +than we had been led to expect.</p> + +<p>The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped +down with the stream on the 15th, leaving us to +reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary +prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, +while the operation of weighing was being executed, +echoing from the surrounding hills, suggested +the question, "When shall that sound be +heard again?" From the melancholy reverie which +this idea suggested I was roused by the voice of +my fellow exile, "the companion of my joys and +sorrows," in whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell.</p> + +<p><a name="II9" id="II9"></a>This post is situated in lat. 59° 28', standing +on the east bank of South River, about thirty +miles distant from the sea, surrounded by a +country that presents as complete a picture of +desolation as can be imagined; moss-covered +rocks without vegetation and without verdure, +constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page31" id="page31"></a>[pg 31]</span> +eye in every direction. A few stunted pines +growing in the villages form the only exception; +and at this season of the year, when they shed +their leaves, contribute but little to the improvement of the scene.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page32" id="page32"></a>[pg 32]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#III1">EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR</a>—<a href="#III2">DIFFICULTIES</a>—<a href="#III3">DEER-HUNT</a>—<a href="#III4">INDIAN +GLUTTONY</a>—<a href="#III5">DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY</a>—<a href="#III6">PROVISIONS RUN SHORT</a>—<a href="#III7">INFLUENZA.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="III1" id="III1"></a>The Company having learned, through a pamphlet +published by the Moravian missionaries of +Labrador, that the country produced excellent +furs, were induced by the laudable desire of +"ameliorating the condition of the natives," to +settle it; and a party was accordingly sent overland +from Moose Factory to take possession in +the summer of 1831. The Moravians, finding +their intention thus anticipated, left both the cure +of souls and trade of furs to the Company.</p> + +<p>Whatever may have been the Company's real +motives in forming a settlement in this quarter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page33" id="page33"></a>[pg 33]</span> +the profits derived from it added but little to the +dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance +like gold proved to be but base metal. +Beavers were nowhere to be found; and although +the martens brought an extraordinary high price, +they were far from plentiful; while the enormous +expense of supplying the district by sea, and supporting +it on imported provisions, rendered the +"Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant +discussion among the partners, most of whom +were opposed to the measure from the first.</p> + +<p>Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of +the project, and aware of the discontent caused +by its failure, determined on making every effort +to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase +the returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push +outposts into the interior, to support my people +on the resources of the country, and at the same +time to open a communication with Esquimaux +Bay, on the coast of Labrador, with the view of +obtaining in future my supplies from thence by +inland route; "there being no question of the +practicability of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page34" id="page34"></a>[pg 34]</span> + +<p><a name="III2" id="III2"></a>Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the +spring of 1834, and represented to me the utter +impossibility of carrying my instructions into +effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned +by despatches from York Factory that the vessel +intended for the business of the district had been +lost, and the other, in which I made my passage, +placed in so critical a situation as to render her +safety in spring a very doubtful matter, considered +it advisable to provide for the worst by freighting +a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. +This vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance +on the 22d of September, and we thus found +ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two years' consumption.</p> + +<p>Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. +Erlandson the difficulties of the inland route, +and also that a great number of the natives had +gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of +remaining there, I considered it incumbent upon +me to visit that quarter at an early period of the +winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo +on the 2d of January. I submit the following +narrative of my journey to the reader.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page35" id="page35"></a>[pg 35]</span> + +<p><a name="III3" id="III3"></a>"<i>Tuesday, the 2d of January</i>, 1838.—I left +Fort Chimo at eleven A.M., accompanied by the +following men, <i>viz.</i>:—</p> + +<p>"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian +guides, who are to accompany me throughout +the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson go +part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, +loaded with provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 3d.</i>—Left our encampment +before dawn of day. Excessively cold—some of +us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our principal +guide, finding his companion unable to keep +up with us, set off to his lodge in quest of a +substitute. Encamped early, having proceeded about nine miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 4th.</i>—Started at seven A.M. +Reached High Fall Creek at nine A.M. Halted +to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone, +finding no person willing to accompany him. +Resumed our march at half-past nine; had not +proceeded far, when we perceived that our young +guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page36" id="page36"></a>[pg 36]</span> +We waited till he overtook us, and the miserable +creature appearing completely exhausted with +fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 5th.</i>—Lightened Pellican's sled, +and set off at five A.M.; fine weather, though +sharp. Advanced sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 6th.</i>—As the ice was covered +with water close to our encampment, it was +deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set +off at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move +forward in consequence of the immense quantity +of snow that had fallen during the night. It continuing +still to snow, and blowing a violent gale +at same time, I gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 7th.</i>—Got up about three A.M., +literally buried in snow. Our blankets being wet, +we waited in our encampment drying them till +eight o'clock, when we started with only half +loads, with which we intended to proceed to the +first lake, and then return for the remainder; but +to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that +the tempest which had incommoded us so much +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page37" id="page37"></a>[pg 37]</span> +last night had cleared the ice of snow; we therefore +returned for the property we had left; then +proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, +we soon reached the lake; when my guides, discovering +a herd of deer on an adjacent hill, immediately +set off at a bound, followed by Pellican +and my two <i>brules</i>. I saw at once my day's journey +was at an end, and accordingly directed my +encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us +in the evening with the choice parts of three deer +they had killed. Proceeded eight miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 8th.</i>—Very cold, tempestuous +weather. Our progress was much retarded by the +great depth of snow in the woods through which +our route lay. Thirteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 9th.</i>—Blowing a hurricane; the +cold being also intense, we could not venture out +on the ice without incurring the risk of being +frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters, +such as they were, until the weather should moderate.</p> + +<p><a name="III4" id="III4"></a>"<i>Wednesday, the 10th.</i>—My guides appeared +very unwilling to quit their encampment this +morning, pretending indisposition. They might +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page38" id="page38"></a>[pg 38]</span> +have been really ill; but the beastly manner in +which they had been gorging themselves for the +past two days being well known to be the cause +of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. +I therefore sprang into their encampment, and +pitching the remainder of their choice morsels +into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled +through woods the whole day. Encamped +at half-past three. Eighteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 11th.</i>—Started at five, A.M. +Soon fell on a large lake, on which we travelled +till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus far the +lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two +miles in width. As Mr. Erlandson was the first +European who had traversed these inhospitable +wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name +to the lake. It is reported by the natives to +abound in fish of the best quality; rein-deer are +also said to be numerous at certain seasons of the +year. Proceeded fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 12th.</i>—Being immoderately cold, +and the wind blowing direct in our faces, we could +not attempt travelling on the lake.</p> + +<p><a name="III5" id="III5"></a>"<i>Saturday, the 13th.</i>—Weather fine. Left +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page39" id="page39"></a>[pg 39]</span> +Erlandson's Lake about one, A.M.; it still stretched +out before us as far as the eye could reach, and +cannot be less than forty miles in length; its +medium breadth, however, does not exceed two +miles and a half. The circumjacent country is +remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the +highest hills, and is reported by the natives to +abound in martens. A few industrious Indians +would not fail to turn such advantages to good +account; but they can avail the Company very +little, while the natives alone are in possession +of them. Went on twenty-four miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 14th.</i>—Set off at five, A.M. Passed +over several small lakes; the country well wooded. +Entered upon a small river about noon, the banks +covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 15th.</i>—Took our departure at +seven, A.M. Travelled without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 16th.</i>—Decamped at five, A.M.; +the snow very deep in the woods. Fell on Whale +River at ten, A.M. The face of the country +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page40" id="page40"></a>[pg 40]</span> +presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's +Lake to this river it is generally well wooded, +but afterwards becomes extremely barren, nothing +to be seen on both sides of the river but bare +rocks. Proceeded sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 17th.</i>—Started at five, A.M. +Our route in the morning led us through a chain +of small lakes, and brought us out again on +Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. +The appearance of the country much the same +as described yesterday. Proceeded eighteen miles.</p> + +<p><a name="III6" id="III6"></a>"<i>Thursday, the 18th.</i>—P. Neven being unable +to travel from indisposition, I resolved on passing +the day to await the issue, deeming his malady +to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime +I took an exact account of my provisions +which I found to be so far reduced, that no +further assistance was required for its conveyance. +I accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 19th.</i>—Early in the morning, +P. Neven (being now convalescent) and Mordoch +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page41" id="page41"></a>[pg 41]</span> +Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I and +my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained +a sled of dogs, intending to drive them +myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale +River, then struck across the country to the +eastward. Encamped at four, P.M. Fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 20th.</i>—The moon affording no +longer light to find our way in the night, we +must now wait till daylight. Started at seven +A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of +a miserably small growth; then came out on a +large lake (comparatively speaking), on which we +travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 21st.</i>—Set off at seven A.M. +About eleven, we fell on the fresh tracks of a +large herd of deer, which my guides carefully +examined; their experience not only enabling +them to determine the precise time they had +passed, but the very spot where they were likely +to be found, which they affirmed was close to +us. My dogs being very much reduced, and not +having the means of increasing their present +modicum of food, I determined on availing myself +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page42" id="page42"></a>[pg 42]</span> +of an opportunity which might not again +occur of procuring a supply. The Indians accordingly +set off in quest of them, desiring us +at their departure to make no fire until the sun +had reached a certain position in the heavens +which they pointed out to us. We made our +encampment at the time appointed, and were +soon joined by our hunters, dragging after them +a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the +herd, which immediately took to the bare hills, +where pursuit was in vain. Our guides being +encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain +by ocular evidence the manner in which +the first kettle would be disposed of, nor did +I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The +cannibals fell upon the half-cooked flesh with +a voracity which I could not have believed even +savages capable of; and in an incredibly short +space of time the kettle was disposed of;—and +this, too, after their usual daily allowance, which +is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the +other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 22nd.</i>—On examining the remains +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page43" id="page43"></a>[pg 43]</span> +of the deer this morning, I found my quadrupeds +would benefit but little by my good intentions +and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves +so sedulously to the doe during the night, +as to leave but little for their canine brethren. +We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very heavy +in the woods. About noon we came upon a large +lake, where we made better speed. Thirteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 23rd.</i>—Travelled through woods +the greater part of the day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 24th.</i>—Decamped at seven, A.M. +Our route lay through swamps and small lakes, +with strips of wood intervening. Martens appear +to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely +rare, for we have discovered no traces whatever +of their existence anywhere along our route, +though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such +as beavers frequent, are to be met with in every +direction; but the country produces no food for +them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable +lake, where my guides told me we had reached +the highest land. On asking them if this were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page44" id="page44"></a>[pg 44]</span> +the lake where we intended to build, they pointed +to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey +off in that direction!—so far had I been led from +the route I intended to have followed, notwithstanding +the perfect understanding I had with my +perfidious guides prior to our departure from the +establishment. Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 25th.</i>—Immediately on leaving +our encampment, we fell on a large river flowing +to the north-east, which I took to be George's +River. We followed it for a short distance, and +then directed our course over bare hills. Encamped +at three, P.M. Eleven miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 26th.</i>—Having passed the night +in a clump of small pines, which sheltered us +from the inclemency of the weather, we were not +aware of the violence of the storm which was +raging round us, until, pursuing our route over +a ridge of bare hills, we were completely exposed +to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind +blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible +to proceed. Observing a hummock of wood close +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page45" id="page45"></a>[pg 45]</span> +to us, we shaped our course for it, where we were +no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and +drift. The few trees to which we had retreated +being far apart, and the wind blowing with the +utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty +in clearing an encampment. The storm +continuing unabated, we passed a miserable day +in our snow burrow. Two miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 27th.</i>—Arose from our comfortless +<i>couché</i> at half-past four. The snow having +drifted over us, and being melted by the heat +of the fire in the early part of the night, we found +our blankets and capotes hard frozen in the +morning. Thawing and drying them occupied +us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very +deep. Proceeded nine miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 28th.</i>—Set off at seven, A.M. +Snow still increasing in depth, and our progress +decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we came +upon a large river flowing to the north, on +which we travelled a short distance; then followed +the course of a small stream running in +an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page46" id="page46"></a>[pg 46]</span> +route lay over marshes and small lakes; the +country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with +larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 29th.</i>—Started at seven. Appearance +of the country much the same as +yesterday. Fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 30th.</i>—Decamped at seven. +Weather mild, and walking heavy. Our principal +guide appears rapidly declining in strength, which +does not surprise me, considering the laborious +duty he has had to perform; always beating the +track a-head, without being once relieved by his +worthless associate. Fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 31st.</i>—Started at seven. Still +very mild. Observed a few small birch trees. +Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 1st of February.</i>—Started at the +usual hour. We have been travelling through +a very rough country for these two days past. +The fact is, that our guides, having only passed +here in summer, are unacquainted with the winter +track. We are, therefore, evidently pursuing a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page47" id="page47"></a>[pg 47]</span> +circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage, +subjects us to the risk of running +short of provisions,—a contingency which our +reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. +We can afford no more food to the dogs; their +load is now transferred to the men's sleds. Fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 2d.</i>—Decamped at seven, A.M. +Pursued our route over extensive swamps and +small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to +be seen. The face of the surrounding country +being level, the least elevation commands a most +extensive view; but the eye turns away in +disgust from the cheerless prospect which the +desolate flats present. I deemed it expedient to +curtail our allowance of provisions this evening. Eighteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 3d.</i>—Set off at seven, A.M. +Reached Michigama Lake at one, P.M.; on which +we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped +on an island. Proceeded twenty miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 4th.</i>—Left our encampment at +the usual hour. Halted for our scanty meal at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page48" id="page48"></a>[pg 48]</span> +ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our +march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island +near the mainland on the east side of the lake, +having performed about twenty miles. I here +repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed +to Esquimaux Bay, by North River, which takes +its rise in this lake. They replied that nothing +could induce them to comply with my wishes, as +inevitable starvation would be the consequence; no +game could be found by the way, and we would +have, therefore, to depend solely on our own +provisions, which were barely sufficient for the +shortest route. I had thus the mortification to +find, that I should entirely fail in accomplishing +the main object I had in view in crossing the country.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 5th.</i>—Decamped at seven, A.M. +Reached the mainland at half-past eight; +then ascended a river flowing from the north-east, +which discharges itself into Michigama +Lake, Pellican taking the lead, being the only +one acquainted with this part of the country. +The Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page49" id="page49"></a>[pg 49]</span> +but miserably small pine, thinly scattered over +the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 6th.</i>—Left our encampment at +seven. Our guide lost his way about noon, +which after an hour's search, he succeeded in +finding; when we resumed our slow march, +Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace, which +neither threats nor entreaties could in the least +accelerate. Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 7th.</i>—Started at half-past +six, A.M. Arrived at the site of an extensive +Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently +occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be +their friends from Ungava, and their trail leading +in the direction of our route, required no longer +to be urged on. An immediate impulse was +given to Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing +his speed to such a degree, that it required our +utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped +near a high fall on North-West River, +which is here walled in by inaccessible precipices +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page50" id="page50"></a>[pg 50]</span> +on both sides. The view above the fall is interrupted +by stupendous rocks; the natives say +that the appearance of the river and surrounding +country is the same from this fall to Michigama +Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for +any kind of craft. Eighteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 8th.</i>—Set off at seven, A.M. Fine +travelling on the river. We passed two portages +and rapids. Encamped at forty-five minutes past five. Twenty miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 9th.</i>—Decamped at seven. Travelling +good; the banks of the river high and +precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We +observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 10th.</i>—Started at eight, A.M. +About noon we arrived at a wide expansion of +the river, where it suddenly bends to the west. +Here we again quitted the river, directing our +course to the eastward. The navigation of this +part of the river is represented by the natives +to be impracticable, and similar to the upper +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page51" id="page51"></a>[pg 51]</span> +part. Our snow-shoes being the worse for wear, +we encamped at an early hour for the purpose of +repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sunday, the 11th.</i>—Decamped at seven, A.M. +Pursued our course through the roughest country +I ever travelled. The appearance of it struck +me as resembling the ocean when agitated by +a storm, supposing its billows transformed into +solid rock. We commenced ascending and descending +in the morning, and kept at it till +night. The men complained much of fatigue. +Proceeded fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Monday, the 12th.</i>—The weather being so +much overcast that we could not find our way, we +remained in our encampment till eight, A.M. Encamped +at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tuesday, the 13th.</i>—Set off at half-past seven, +amidst a tremendous snow-storm, which continued +without intermission the whole day; we sunk +knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most +pleasant recreation in the world. About noon we +passed a hut, which my guide told me had been +the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page52" id="page52"></a>[pg 52]</span> +the evening we arrived at another hut, on North +West River, where we found two of Mr. McGillivray's +people, who were stationed there for the +purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Wednesday, the 14th.</i>—The weather being +unpropitious, and finding ourselves very snug in +our present quarters, we passed the day enjoying the comfort of a roof.</p> + +<p>"<i>Thursday, the 15th.</i>—Left our Canadian hosts +at early dawn; the snow very deep on the river. +Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D. Henderson was +suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely +incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a +hut close by, a fire was immediately kindled in it, +and a place prepared for our invalid to lie down; +in our present circumstances nothing more could +be done. I waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued +my route, accompanied by the Indians, leaving +H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>"<i>Friday, the 16th.</i>—Set off at four, A.M. Arrived +at dusk at Port Smith, where, although +I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page53" id="page53"></a>[pg 53]</span> +long beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name.</p> + +<p>"<i>Saturday, the 17th.</i>—An Indian was despatched +early in the morning, to meet my men with a +supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington +Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the +evening, more in want of food than medicine."</p> + +<p>Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or +Ungava Indians, at present residing in this part of +the country, numbering seventy or eighty souls, +came to the establishment, with the produce of +their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself +having come to an understanding regarding them, +we both addressed them, representing to them the +advantages they would derive from having posts +so conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After +some deliberation among themselves, they expressed +their intention to be guided by our advice, +and to return forthwith to their lands. Having +sent off my despatches by Indian couriers, for +Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to be forwarded +thence to Canada, <i>via</i> the Company's posts along +the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page54" id="page54"></a>[pg 54]</span> +for my guides (who had gone to pay the <i>kettles</i> of +their friends a visit), preparatory to my departure +hence, which has been deferred to a much later +period than I had calculated upon, from the prevalence +of excessively bad weather for a fortnight.</p> + +<p><a name="III7" id="III7"></a>Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned +the same evening; but they were so emaciated +that I could scarcely recognise them, looking +like so many spectres—a metamorphosis caused by +the influenza, at that time prevalent in the country. +My principal guide, however, declared himself +able to proceed on the journey, with a light load; +and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany +his relative. Two young men, who came in +with my guide, appearing not quite so much reduced +as the others, I proposed to them to accompany +me as far as Michigama Lake, to assist in +hauling our provisions, which they consented to +do; and they accordingly took their departure +along with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself +and two men, along with my "husky" interpreter, +followed next morning; but as we are to +retrace our steps by the same way we came, it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page55" id="page55"></a>[pg 55]</span> +will be unnecessary to narrate the occurrences of each day.</p> + +<p>We arrived in the evening at the first Indian +camp, where I found one of the young men I had +hired, relapsed into his former malady, and unable +to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, +did not much affect me, as I had hopes my +guide would be able to continue his route, from +the circumstance of his having passed on to the +farthest camp. When we arrived, about noon +next day, and found, not only our guide, but every +individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal +malady,—this was the climax to my disappointment. +I determined on returning to Fort Smith +with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I +hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of +my returning before the end of the season.</p> + +<p>I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, +who conducted the dog-sledge, on which I had +placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson in +charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. +On the morning of the 9th, I despatched +H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to haul +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page56" id="page56"></a>[pg 56]</span> +the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further orders.</p> + +<p>My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a +hopeless state, refusing sustenance of any kind, +and became delirious. This was the crisis of the +malady; for he soon began to take some food, and +recovered strength daily. He at length proposed +to attempt the journey, to which I joyfully assented; +and once more took leave of Fort Smith, +on the 19th of March, and joined my men next day.</p> + +<p>Remaining two days, to give the guide time to +recruit his strength, I started on the morning +of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength +enough to enable them to proceed towards their +winter deposit of provisions, near Michigama Lake, +leaving us an excellent track. We overtook them +on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate +my guide from his relatives while we pursued the +same route. We arrived on the 30th at their last +stage, and encamped together.</p> + +<p>Next morning as we were about to start, a +message arrived from my guide, announcing his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page57" id="page57"></a>[pg 57]</span> +determination to proceed no farther, unless Pellican +were permitted to accompany us. I sent for +him immediately, and endeavoured to impress on +his mind the unreasonableness of such a proposition, +our provisions being scarcely sufficient for +ourselves—that it would expose the whole party +to the risk of starvation; but I addressed a thing +without reason and without understanding, and +was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield.</p> + +<p>We reached the highest land on the 2d of +April, where, on examining our remaining stock of +provisions, the alarming fact that it was altogether +insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was +but too apparent. It was therefore necessary to +take immediate measures to avert, if possible, an +evil that threatened so fearful consequences; and +the only course that presented itself was to divide +into two parties,—the one to proceed with all +possible despatch to the fort, by the shortest route, +and to send forward a supply to the other, which +it was anticipated would reach them ere they were +reduced to absolute want.</p> + +<p>Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page58" id="page58"></a>[pg 58]</span> +by the guide and H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson +to make the best of his way, with the +Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a +very small share of the provisions with us, and +meeting with no game on the way, we were soon +reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our +dogs being starved to death, we were ultimately +obliged to knock the surviving one on the head, +to supply ourselves with what we considered, in +present circumstances, "food for the gods." +Such as it was, it enabled us to keep soul and +body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the +20th of April, where we found all the Nascopies +of this part of the country assembled to greet the +arrival of their long-expected friends—our guides. +I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking +lads to go to meet my rear-guard,—the other servants +about the establishment, who were accustomed +to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer.</p> + +<p>On the third day after their departure the +couriers returned, with Pellican. On inquiring +of the latter what had become of my men, he +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page59" id="page59"></a>[pg 59]</span> +replied that he had left them encamped at a lake +about sixty miles distant, where the Esquimaux, +abandoning himself to despair, could not be prevailed +upon to go a step farther; and that he +(Pellican) had been sent forward by Henderson to +urge on the party whom they expected. They +were within a day's journey of them; and yet the +wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, +leaving the others to their fate. No Indians +I had ever known would have acted so basely; +yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, +who have but little intercourse with the +whites, and must, of course, be free from the +contamination of their manners. Our hunters +being now arrived, were sent off, without delay, in +quest of the missing; and I had the satisfaction to +see my famished <i>compagnons de voyage</i> arrive, on the 26th of April.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page60" id="page60"></a>[pg 60]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#IV1">DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT</a>—<a href="#IV2">EXPLORING PARTY</a>—<a href="#IV3">THEIR +REPORT</a>—<a href="#IV4">ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX</a>—<a href="#IV5">ESTABLISH POSTS</a>—<a href="#IV6">POUNDING +REIN-DEER</a>—<a href="#IV7">EXPEDITION UP GEORGE'S RIVER</a>—<a href="#IV8">ITS +DIFFICULTIES</a>—<a href="#IV9">HAMILTON RIVER</a>—<a href="#IV10">DISCOVER A STUPENDOUS +CATARACT</a>—<a href="#IV11">RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA</a>—<a href="#IV12">SUDDEN +STORM, AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="IV1" id="IV1"></a>Having thus ascertained the impracticability of +the inland communication, I transmitted the +result of my observations to the Governor—a +report which, I doubt not, proved rather unpalatable +to his Excellency, unaccustomed as he +is to have any of his movements checked by that +impudent and uncompromising word—impossible. +I was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt +had proved uncommonly successful; so that I +had now the means of carrying into effect the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page61" id="page61"></a>[pg 61]</span> +Governor's instructions on this point. On the +approach of spring, preparations were made for +establishing a post inland; guides were hired for +the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success.</p> + +<p>At this time I was visited by a very grievous +affliction, in the loss of my beloved wife, whose +untimely death left me in a more wretched condition +than words can express. This was truly +an eventful year for me;—within that space I +became a husband, a father, and a widower;—I +traversed the continent of America, performing +a voyage of some 1,500 miles by sea, and a +journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on snow-shoes.</p> + +<p><a name="IV2" id="IV2"></a>As soon as the navigation became practicable +(June 18), Mr. Erlandson set off for the interior, +with his outfit, in three small canoes, and after +much toil reached his destination on the 10th of +July. On the return of the men who had assisted +in the transport, I fitted out an expedition to +explore the coast to the westward, with the view +of ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page62" id="page62"></a>[pg 62]</span> +for the extension of the business. <a name="IV3" id="IV3"></a>The party +was absent about a month; and their report was +entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying +our "ameliorating system" so far. The navigation +of the coast is exceedingly dangerous, from +the continual presence of ice, and the extraordinary +force of the currents. While the coast +proved so inaccessible, the interior of the country +wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect; not +a tree, nor shrub, nor plant of any land, is to be +seen, save the lichens that cover the rocks, and +a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom +our people had seen, evinced the same amicable +disposition by which their whole race is distinguished. +They received our people with open +arms, and some of the young damsels seemed +disposed to cultivate a closer intimacy with them +than their ideas of propriety, or at least their +olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia +that proceeds from their persons in the summer +season is quite insufferable; it is as if you +applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil.</p> + +<p><a name="IV4" id="IV4"></a>In the course of the summer, several Esquimaux +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page63" id="page63"></a>[pg 63]</span> +arrived from the westward, with a considerable +quantity of fox-skins,—the only fur this +barren country yields. Some of these poor +creatures had passed nearly two years on their +journey hither, being obliged to hunt or fish for +their living as they travelled. They set off on +their return with a little tobacco, or a few strings +of beads;—very few having the means of procuring guns and ammunition.</p> + +<p>Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the +month of September, when I was gratified by +the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a junior +clerk appointed to the district. By him we +received the first intelligence of the stirring events +that had taken place in the colonies during the +preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs +of my countrymen's arms over French treachery +and Yankee hatred, diverted my thoughts, for the +first time, from the melancholy subject of my +late bereavement; the thoughts of which my solitude +served rather to cherish than dispel.</p> + +<p><a name="IV5" id="IV5"></a>Having learned from the natives that a river +fell into the bay, about eighty miles to the eastward, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page64" id="page64"></a>[pg 64]</span> +that offered greater facilities for carrying +on the business in the interior than our present +communication, I ordered the men who had assisted +Mr. Erlandson, to descend by this river,—an +enterprise which was successfully accomplished. +Their report confirming that of the +natives, I forthwith determined on establishing a +post there; and the season being now far advanced, +I had no sooner decided on the step than +I set about carrying it into execution. A party +was despatched with every requisite for the purpose, +about the 15th of September; and I received +a communication from them in October, +informing me that they had discovered a convenient +situation for erecting the buildings. The +materials being found on the spot, and the men +aware of the approach of winter, and straining +every nerve to secure themselves against its +rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were +raised and already occupied.</p> + +<p>In the early part of winter, being, I may say, +entirely alone,—for there remained only one man +and an interpreter with me,—I amused myself by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page65" id="page65"></a>[pg 65]</span> +shooting partridges, which abounded in the neighbourhood +that season; but the cold became so +excessive as the winter advanced, that I was compelled +to forego that amusement, and confine +myself to the four walls of my prison, with the +few books I possessed as my only companions. +My despatches for the civilized world being completed, +I was altogether at a loss how to forward +them, as none of the natives could be induced, +even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. +At length one was found who consented to accompany +one of my men to Mr. Erlandson's post, but no farther.</p> + +<p>My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had +the mortification to learn on their return that the +packet remained at the outpost, owing to an accident +that befel one of the Indian guides, and +which incapacitated him for the trip. Our friends +would thus remain in ignorance of our fate for +nearly two years. The report received regarding +the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as +far as the trade was concerned; but the privations +suffered by those engaged in it, it was painful to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page66" id="page66"></a>[pg 66]</span> +learn; their sole subsistence consisted of fish, +rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage +it had sustained from the heat of the sun, and a +few rabbits and partridges. Who would not be an Indian trader?</p> + +<p><a name="IV6" id="IV6"></a>Early in the month of March the rein-deer +made their appearance again, and every countenance +brightened up at the thoughts of the approaching +pastime. I fell on a plan, however, +that divested the sport of much of its attractions, +although calculated to ensure greater success. A +favourable position being selected, a certain extent +of ground was fenced in so as to form a +"pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap being +left in it to admit the game from the river side. +This done, I caused branches to be placed on the +ice above and below the deer pass, which the +animals observing, became alarmed, and running +from side to side of the open space between the +lines of branches, at length made a dash at the +opposite side of the river, and entered the trap +prepared for them at a gallop, continuing at the +top of their speed until stopped by the upper +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page67" id="page67"></a>[pg 67]</span> +part of the "pound," when they wheeled round, +and making for the entrance, were received with +a volley of balls from the huntsmen; a continual +fire being kept up upon them in this manner until they all dropped.</p> + +<p>The scene presented by the slaughter was anything +but agreeable, yet stern necessity compelled +me to continue the butchery; and the success that +attended my scheme far exceeded my expectations. +The first herd that entered, in number +about fifty, burst through the fence; but our +works were immediately strengthened, so as to +defy their efforts in future to escape. A herd of +300 was soon after entrapped, and in the course +of two hours all were killed.</p> + +<p><a name="IV7" id="IV7"></a>Having thus obtained an ample stock of provisions, +the different parties employed at the fishing +and hunting stations were recalled, and preparations +were begun for our summer campaign, +in which I determined to take an active part. The +favourable report of last summer respecting the +East or George's River, combined with reports +that had reached me since of another large river +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page68" id="page68"></a>[pg 68]</span> +flowing a short distance to the south of Esquimaux +Bay, suggested the possibility of carrying +on our business on this line of communication. +With the view, therefore, of carrying this design +into effect, I had a boat built in the course of the +winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew +on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of +ice at an earlier period; and sweeping down on the +top of the current at railroad speed, reached the +sea in about three hours.</p> + +<p><a name="IV8" id="IV8"></a>It being still early in the day, and no ice to +be seen, we pulled for the opposite side of the +bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The +weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, +and had proceeded about seven miles with every +prospect of effecting our purpose, when lo! the +tide was observed to be making against us; and +the ice returning with it, apparently in a compact +body, we were placed in rather a critical situation. +The sun was declining, while the coast presented +a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility +of landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page69" id="page69"></a>[pg 69]</span> + +<p>Towards that point, therefore, the head of the +boat was directed, and the crew, seeing the imminence +of the danger, rowed with all their +might; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we +made good our landing ere the ice closed in +around us. A few minutes after not a speck of water could be descried.</p> + +<p>Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, +leaving only a narrow strip of open water along +the shore; into this channel we pushed our boat, +and for some time made but little progress, being +continually interrupted by pieces of ice, which +the high tide detached from the shore. Our +channel, however, soon widened, and in a short +time not a particle of ice could be seen, disappearing +as if by magic; for in a few minutes after +it began to move, no traces of it could be discovered +as far as the eye could reach to seaward. +We reached East or George's River, without +further interruption, on the 3d of July, where +we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th.</p> + +<p>The post established here last autumn is situated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page70" id="page70"></a>[pg 70]</span> +in a still more cheerless spot than Fort +Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills, whose +sides are covered with the <i>débris</i> of rock, which +appears to have been detached from the hills by +the process of decay. The post stands at the foot +of one of those frightful hills, while another rises +immediately in front; the intervening valleys, or +cavities, present nothing to enliven the scene, +save a few stunted pines, and here and there a patch of snow.</p> + +<p>The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region +of sterility and desolation, at first appeared delighted +with the idea of having whites among +them: finding, however, that our presence yielded +them no advantage, they soon became indifferent +about us, and proceeded to the Moravian settlement +with the produce of their hunts, where they +obtained their little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed.</p> + +<p>My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted +of ten able men; and an Indian guide accompanied +us in his canoe. As we ascended, our difficulties +increased at every step, the water being +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page71" id="page71"></a>[pg 71]</span> +much lower than last year. I found myself engaged +in a more laborious work than I had ever +yet undertaken—towing the boat day after day +against a current flowing in a continuous rapid, +so as to admit of not one moment's relaxation, +unless during the short interval allowed for rest +to such as could take it—no easy matter when +myriads of sand-flies and mosquitoes filled the air +and tortured us incessantly.</p> + +<p>We continued to advance in this manner, hauling, +pulling, carrying, and even launching the +boat for about fifteen days, when we reached an +expansion of the river, without any perceptible +current, and sufficiently deep to admit of the use of the oar.</p> + +<p>Our labour was now supposed to be at an end +by those who had explored the river; no further +doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching +Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends +and news from all quarters would reward us for +all our toils. Let not him who knows not what +it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and +the great world, year after year, think lightly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page72" id="page72"></a>[pg 72]</span> +of the reward which the solitary trader, in his +remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, +however, were soon dissipated. Having reached +the upper extremity of the still water, we encountered +difficulties that defied every attempt to surmount.</p> + +<p>The lake just referred to proved to be the +source of the lower stream; the rivulet that +flowed into it from above being so shallow as +scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. +It was therefore impossible to proceed with the +boat, a circumstance that placed me in a rather +perplexing position; for I had the outfit for the +interior in charge, without which the business, so +lately established with every prospect of success, would fail.</p> + +<p>There was, however, no time to be lost in vain +regrets; the advanced period of the season required +instant decision, and our stock of provisions was +diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on +proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe +belonging to our guide, taking two of the men +with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to erect +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page73" id="page73"></a>[pg 73]</span> +a temporary post; and in the mean time sent my +guide to apprize the Indians in the vicinity of the +steps I had taken to supply their wants next winter.</p> + +<p>These arrangements completed, I embarked in +an eggshell of a canoe, so small as not to admit +of anything save the smallest possible supply of +provisions,—tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. +Soon after leaving our encampment, we came to +a portage some ten miles in length, and struck the +river again, where, from the report of the men, I +expected no further difficulties would impede our +progress. But the event did not answer my expectations; +from the continual drought of the +season the water proved so low that we had to +drag along our canoe, wading in the water, where +a boat would have passed with ease last year. In +this manner we continued our toilsome voyage +without relaxation for several days, carrying our +canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the +water from early dawn until late at night, when +we threw ourselves down on the ground to pass +the night without shelter from the weather or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page74" id="page74"></a>[pg 74]</span> +protection from the stings of our merciless persecutors +the mosquitoes, who pursued their avocation +with unwearied assiduity, so that our rest was +small, and that little afforded us but scanty refreshment.</p> + +<p><a name="IV9" id="IV9"></a>Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of +the route, was rendered still slower by our frequent +deviations from our course; my guides +having paid but little attention to their instructions +last year. We at length reached the post +on the 16th of August, half starved, half naked, +and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the +good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our +spirits, if not our "inexpressibles;" and although +much annoyed that no Indians could be +induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I determined +on making the attempt with such assistance +as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was well +acquainted with the upper part of the river.</p> + +<p>After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe +sufficiently large to contain several conveniences, +to which I had been for some time a stranger,—a +tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page75" id="page75"></a>[pg 75]</span> +by day; we fared, too, like princes, on the produce +of "sea and land," procured by the net and +the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our downward +course without meeting any interruption, +or experiencing any difficulty in finding our way; +when, one evening, the roar of a mighty cataract +burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was +at hand. We soon reached the spot, which presented +to us one of the grandest spectacles in the +world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our enterprise.</p> + +<p><a name="IV10" id="IV10"></a>About six miles above the fall the river suddenly +contracts, from a width of from four hundred to +six hundred yards, to about one hundred yards; +then rushing along in a continuous foaming +rapid, finally contracts to a breadth of about +fifty yards, ere it precipitates itself over the rock +which forms the fall; when, still roaring and +foaming, it continues its maddened course for +about a distance of thirty miles, pent up between +walls of rock that rise sometimes to the height +of three hundred feet on either side. This stupendous +fall exceeds in height the Falls of Niagara, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page76" id="page76"></a>[pg 76]</span> +but bears no comparison to that sublime +object in any other respect, being nearly hidden +from the view by the abrupt angle which the +rocks form immediately beneath it. If not seen, +however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary +force with which it tumbles into the abyss underneath, +that we felt the solid rock shake under our +feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the gulf. +A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at +a great distance in clear weather, hangs over the +spot. From the fall to the foot of the rapid—a +distance of thirty miles—the zigzag course of +the river presents such sharp angles, that you see +nothing of it until within a few yards of its banks. +Might not this circumstance lead the geologist +to the conclusion that the fall had receded this +distance? The mind shrinks from the contemplation +of a subject that carries it back to a period +of time so very remote; for if the rock,—syenite, +always possessed its present solidity and hardness, +the action of the water alone might require millions +of years to produce such a result!</p> + +<p><a name="IV11" id="IV11"></a>After carrying our canoe and baggage for a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page77" id="page77"></a>[pg 77]</span> +whole day through bogs, and swamps, and windfalls, +in the hope of finding the river accessible, +we at length gave up the attempt; and with heavy +hearts and weary limbs retracing our steps, we +reached the outpost, without accident, after an +absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible +to remove either the returns, or the small quantity +of goods remaining on hand, I determined on +leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter +here; and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to +assume the charge of the temporary post, where +I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the +1st of September, and I was delighted at finding +my men living in the midst of abundance;—the +surrounding country apparently abounding +with rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of +the best quality. I remained with the men +two days to expedite the buildings which were +yet unfinished; and in the meantime a party of +Indians arrived, whom we persuaded to carry our +despatches to Esquimaux Bay.</p> + +<p><a name="IV12" id="IV12"></a>After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erlandson +with two men to share his solitude, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page78" id="page78"></a>[pg 78]</span> +reached the sea without experiencing any adventure +worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, +I was induced, one evening, by the flattering +appearance of the weather, to attempt the passage +of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there +was little danger of being delayed afterwards by +stress of weather. This step I soon had cause +to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth +surface; not a breath of wind was felt, and the +stars shone out brightly. A few clouds began +to appear on the horizon; and the boat began +to rise and fall with the heaving of the sea. Understanding +what these signs portended, we immediately +pulled for the shore; but had scarcely +altered our course when the stars disappeared, +a tremendous noise struck upon our ears from +seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the +impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace +of land could be discovered; but we continued +to ply our oars, while each succeeding billow +threatened immediate destruction.</p> + +<p>The horrors of our situation increased; the man +on the out-look called out that he saw breakers +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page79" id="page79"></a>[pg 79]</span> +a-head in every direction, and escape appeared to +be next to impossible. My crew of Scottish +Islanders, however, continued their painful exertions +without evincing the apprehensions they +must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was +now at hand. We approached so near to the +breakers that it was impossible to avoid them; +and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next +moment would be their last.</p> + +<p>In such a situation the thoughts of even the +most depraved naturally carry them beyond the +limits of time; and by these thoughts, I believe, +the soul of every one was absorbed; yet the men +lost not their presence of mind. Suddenly, the +voice of the look-out was heard amid the roar +of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark +breach in the line of foam that stretched out +before us, which he fancied to be a channel between +the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought +us to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we +found it to answer the man's conjecture; but, so +narrow was the passage, that the oars on both +sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page80" id="page80"></a>[pg 80]</span> +afterwards we found ourselves becalmed and in +safety. The boat being moored, and the men +ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, +as we best could, supperless, and without having +tasted food since early dawn.</p> + +<p>The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morning; +but we found, to our great satisfaction, that +we had entered a kind of channel that lay along +the shore, where we were protected from the +storm by the innumerable rocky islets that +stretched along the mainland. Regarding the +labyrinth of islands through which we had effected +a passage in the darkness, we were struck with +wonder at our escape; and felt convinced that +the hand of Providence alone could have guided +us through such perils in safety.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page81" id="page81"></a>[pg 81]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#V1">ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF HUDSON'S +STRAIT, ON A RAFT</a>—<a href="#V2">DESPATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR</a>—<a href="#V3">DISTRESS +OF THE ESQUIMAUX</a>—<a href="#V4">FORWARD PROVISIONS TO +MR. E——. RETURN OF THE PARTY</a>—<a href="#V5">THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="V1" id="V1"></a>We reached Fort Chimo on the 20th September. +A greater number of Esquimaux were assembled +about the post than I had yet seen; and among +them I was astonished to find a family from the +north side of the Strait, and still more astonished +when I learned the way they had crossed—a raft +formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along +the shore, afforded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise.</p> + +<p>On questioning them what was their object in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page82" id="page82"></a>[pg 82]</span> +risking their lives in so extraordinary an adventure, +they replied, that they wanted wood to make +canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait.</p> + +<p>"And what if you had been overtaken by a storm?" said I.</p> + +<p>"We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply.</p> + +<p>In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, +a storm having come on just as they landed on the first island.</p> + +<p>The fact of these people having crossed Hudson's +Strait on so rude and frail a conveyance, +strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion that +America was originally peopled from Asia. The +Asiatic side of Behring's Strait affording timber +sufficiently large for the purpose of building boats +or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in +supposing that, when once in possession of that +wonderful and useful invention—a boat, they +might be induced, even by curiosity—that powerful +stimulus to adventure—to visit the nearest +island, and from thence proceed to the continent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page83" id="page83"></a>[pg 83]</span> +of America; and finding it, perhaps, possessed of +superior advantages to the shores they had left, +settle there. My voyageur was evidently induced +as much by curiosity as by the desire of procuring +a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's Strait, +where the passage is as wide as between the island +in Behring's Strait and the two continents.</p> + +<p><a name="V2" id="V2"></a>At an early period of the winter I was gratified +by the arrival of despatches from the civilized +world. The packet was found by the Indians at +Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and +forwarded to me by Mr. Erlandson's two men. +By his letters I was grieved to learn that starvation +stared him in the face; the fishing, that +promised so well when I passed, having entirely +failed, and no deer were to be found. He wrote +me, however, that he would maintain his post +while a piece of parchment remained to gnaw!</p> + +<p>The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of +the Governor and Committee for my "laudable +exertions;" while his Excellency intimated, in +language not to be misunderstood, that my promotion +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page84" id="page84"></a>[pg 84]</span> +depended on my successful management +of the affairs of Ungava, "which he regretted to +find were still in an unpromising state."</p> + +<p>What effect this announcement had on my +feelings need not be mentioned—after a painful +servitude of eighteen years thus to be compelled to +make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere +I obtained the reward of my toil, while many +others had reached the goal in a much shorter +time without experiencing either hardship or +privation,—the injustice I had suffered, or the +deceit that had been practised on <i>me</i>. As a balm +to my wounded feelings, my correspondents in +the north informed me that seven clerks had been +promoted since I left Norway House.</p> + +<p><a name="V3" id="V3"></a>Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a +preceding page passed the winter in this quarter, +not daring to return in consequence of an hostile +rencontre they had had with some of their own +tribes on their way hither. The quarrel, like most +Indian quarrels, originated in an attempt to carry +off women: both parties had recourse to arms, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page85" id="page85"></a>[pg 85]</span> +and a desperate struggle ensued, in which our +visitors were completely defeated, with the loss of several lives.</p> + +<p>They remained about the post for a short time, +admiring its wonderful novelties—wonderful to +them—and then proceeded some distance up the +river to waylay the deer that had already crossed +unobserved by them. The poor creatures, unaware +of this fact, remained on the ground until +every article that afforded any kind of sustenance +was consumed; when they started for the post, +leaving the weaker of the party to follow as they +best could. They all arrived the same day except +two widows, who had lost their husbands in the +fray. I sent off two young men with a supply of +provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having +devoured the food, returned without the women, +although I had previously supplied their own +wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own +men, accompanied by an Esquimaux; but, as +might have been expected, the women were found +lying dead on the ice near each other.</p> + +<p><a name="V4" id="V4"></a>Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page86" id="page86"></a>[pg 86]</span> +request any assistance from me, the report he +communicated as to the failure of provisions was +sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours +to relieve his wants. With this view I hired an +Indian lad to act as guide to a party whom +I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. +The guide assured me they would perform the +journey, going and coming, in a month. The +appointed period passed, and no accounts of +them; and week after week, until I at last +despaired of ever seeing them in life. At the +end of about two months they made their appearance, +but in so deplorable a state of emaciation +that we could scarcely recognise them.</p> + +<p><a name="V5" id="V5"></a>The roads proved so bad that they were nearly +a month on their way going, and consequently +they had consumed almost all the provisions they +had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty +supply not allowing him to afford them any +assistance for their return, they commenced their +journey homeward with one meal a day, which +they continued until all was gone, when they fed +on their dogs; and they finally arrived at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page87" id="page87"></a>[pg 87]</span> +house without having tasted any kind of food for +three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the +greatest pity; the interpreter, who came to tell +me of their arrival, was in tears. No time was lost +in administering relief; but the greatest caution +was necessary in administering it, or the consequences might have been fatal.</p> + +<p>I was mortified to find, on the approach of +spring, that my stock of goods did not admit of +supplying the interior; and I was consequently +compelled to relinquish the advantages that had +cost us so much to acquire. Without goods we +could not, of course, maintain our position in that quarter.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page88" id="page88"></a>[pg 88]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#VI1">TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY</a>—<a href="#VI2">GOVERNOR'S +INSTRUCTIONS</a>—<a href="#VI3">MY +REPORT TO THE COMMITTEE</a>—<a href="#VI4">RECOMMEND THE ABANDONMENT +OF UNGAVA SETTLEMENT</a>—<a href="#VI5">SUCCESS OF THE ARCTIC +EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON</a>—<a href="#VI6">RETURN +BY SEA TO FORT CHIMO</a>—<a href="#VI7">NARROWLY ESCAPE +SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER</a>—<a href="#VI8">INHUMAN AND IMPOLITIC +MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR</a>—<a href="#VI9">CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT THE POST.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="VI1" id="VI1"></a>Immediately on the opening of the navigation +I started for Esquimaux Bay, with two Indians, +in a small canoe, and without any of the usual +conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered +to the southern department, followed in another canoe.</p> + +<p><a name="VI2" id="VI2"></a>Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the +receipt of despatches just come to hand by the ship. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page89" id="page89"></a>[pg 89]</span> +The Governor's letter apprized me that a vessel +would be sent round to Ungava every alternate +year; and strictly enjoined me to have no further +communication with Esquimaux Bay <i>overland</i>, +"as much unnecessary expense was incurred by +these journeys." Thus were we consigned to our +fate for a period of two years with as little feeling +as if we had been so many cattle, and debarred +from all communication with our friends, by word +or letter, merely to save a trifling expense!</p> + +<p>Could the Honourable Company be swayed by +so paltry a consideration in subjecting us to so +grievous an inconvenience? Surely not; a body +of men so respectable could neither have authorized +nor sanctioned such sordid parsimony. The +generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson +alone, and to him be the honour ascribed.</p> + +<p><a name="VI3" id="VI3"></a>Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the +utter hopelessness of the Ungava adventure, I +transmitted a report to the Governor and Committee +on the subject; <a name="VI4" id="VI4"></a>recommending the abandonment +of the settlement altogether, as the +enormous expense of supplying us by sea precluded +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page90" id="page90"></a>[pg 90]</span> +the idea of any profit being ever realised; +while it was quite evident the Company's benevolent +views toward the Esquimaux could not +be carried into effect. The extreme poverty +and barrenness of their country, and their pertinacious +adherence to their seal-skin dresses, +which no argument of ours could induce them +to exchange for the less comfortable articles of +European clothing, were insurmountable obstacles. +The Honourable Company, while they wished to +supply the wants of the Esquimaux, still urged +the expediency of securing the trade of the interior.</p> + +<p><a name="VI5" id="VI5"></a>A circumstance that came to my knowledge +in the course of the winter promised the attainment +of that object. I learned from an old +Indian, that the fall and rapid I met with on +my way to the sea the preceding season, could +be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. +My informant had never seen those falls himself, +and could, from the oral report he had heard, +give but a very imperfect description of the route. +Still, I determined on making another attempt +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page91" id="page91"></a>[pg 91]</span> +to explore the whole river, knowing well, that +if I succeeded in discovering the new route, there +could be no further difficulty in supplying the +interior. Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by +letters from my friend Mr. Dease, that the expedition +in which he had been engaged was +crowned with success;—the long sought-after +north-west passage being at length laid open to +the <i>knowledge</i> of mankind, and a question, that at +one time excited the enterprise of the merchant +and the curiosity of the learned, settled beyond a doubt.</p> + +<p>While on this subject, I cannot help expressing +my surprise at the manner Mr. Dease's name is +mentioned in the published narrative of the +expedition, where he is represented as being +employed merely as purveyor. It might have +been said with equal propriety that Mr. Simpson +was employed merely as astronomer. The fact +is, the services of both gentlemen were equally +necessary; and to the prudence, judgment, and +experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of +the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page92" id="page92"></a>[pg 92]</span> +less than to the astronomical science of Mr. Simpson.</p> + +<p><a name="VI6" id="VI6"></a>Having finished my correspondence, I embarked +for Fort Chimo, on board a brig that had been +recently built for the trade of this district and +that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded +no adventure worthy of notice; icebergs we saw +in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us, but +having no desire to form a close acquaintance +with them, we kept at a respectful distance; and +finally entered the Ungava River, on the 24th of +August, at so early an hour of the day, that we +expected to reach the post ere night-fall.</p> + +<p><a name="VI7" id="VI7"></a>We were doomed to disappointment. As we +ascended the river, the breeze fell, and darkness +set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Presently, +however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing +could be seen a yard off. In this dilemma our +safest course would have been to anchor, but +unfortunately that part of the river was the most +unfavourable possible for our purpose, from the +extraordinary strength of the current, and the +rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page93" id="page93"></a>[pg 93]</span> +quite at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel +struck, altered her course a little, struck again, +put about, and struck again and again. The anchor +was dropped as the only chance of escaping the +dangers in which we were involved. The anchor +dragged a short time, and finally caught apparently in a cleft of the rocks.</p> + +<p>Soon after the tide began to flow, and we +fancied our dangers over; but the crisis was not +yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down +with the current of the river with such overwhelming +velocity, that we expected the vessel +would be torn from her moorings. Two men +were placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, +in spite of their utmost exertions, she was dashed +from side to side like a feather, while the current +pitched into her till the water entered the hawse-holes. +Pitching, and swinging, and dashed about +in this fearful manner for some time, the anchor +was at length disengaged, and dragged along the +bottom with a grating noise, which, with the +roaring of the rapid, and the whistling of the wind +through the rigging, formed a combination of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page94" id="page94"></a>[pg 94]</span> +sounds that would have appalled the most resolute. +The fog having cleared away, we discovered +a point projecting far into the river, some two +hundred yards below, towards which we were +drifting broadside, and rapidly nearing. The +boats were got ready, to escape, if possible, the +impending catastrophe, when the vessel was suddenly +brought to with a tremendous jerk, and +instantly swung round to the tide. By this time, +however, its strength was considerably abated, +and daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esquimaux +who had come on board, with a note to +the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent +us with the utmost despatch.</p> + +<p>Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we +weighed anchor, and advanced to within three +miles of the establishment, when a boat was seen +approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On +coming along-side, a rope was thrown to them, +and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the +men had scrambled on board, when a sudden +blast swelled our sails, and propelled us through +the water with such force, that the fore-part of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page95" id="page95"></a>[pg 95]</span> +the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men +floundering in the water, and the other clinging +to the rope. The latter was dragged on board, +severely bruised; but the former remained in +the water for at least two hours, and would have +perished before our eyes, had he not got hold of +a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep +himself afloat. We soon anchored opposite the +post, and every exertion being made to expedite +the departure of the vessel, we were in the course +of a few days left to vegetate in quiet.</p> + +<p><a name="VI8" id="VI8"></a>On examining the quantity of provisions I had +received, I was not a little alarmed to find it +scarcely sufficient for the consumption of one +year, his Excellency's communication having acquainted +me that it was a supply for two years! +<a name="VI9" id="VI9"></a>Thus we were thrown on the precarious resources +of the country for life or for death; for if those +resources should fail us, we must either remain +and starve on the spot, or, abandoning the settlement, +endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay +and run the risk of starving by the way. Economy +so ill-timed argued as little in favour of the Governor's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page96" id="page96"></a>[pg 96]</span> +judgment as of his humanity. Admitting +our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandonment +of the settlement, with all the goods and +furs in it, would have subjected the Company to +a very serious loss. Every precaution, however, +was taken to provide against a contingency which +involved such serious consequences; the men were +dispersed in every direction to shift for themselves, +some being supplied with guns and ammunition, +others with nets, a lake of considerable extent +having been lately discovered, which the natives +reported to abound with fish. Early in the month +of December my fishermen came in with the mortifying +intelligence of the entire failure of the +fishery; and soon after a messenger arrived from +the hunting party to beg a supply of provisions, +which my limited means, alas! compelled me to +deny. Not a deer had been seen, and the partridges +had become so scarce of late that they +barely afforded the means of sustaining life. All +I could therefore do for my poor men was to +supply them with more ammunition and send them off again.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page97" id="page97"></a>[pg 97]</span> + +<p>While their lot was thus wretched, mine was +not enviable; one solitary meal a day was all +I allowed myself and those who remained with +me; and I must do them the justice to say, that +they submitted to these privations without a +murmur, being aware that it was only by exercising +the most rigid economy that our provisions +could hold out the allotted time; the arrival of +the ship being an event too uncertain to be calculated +upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner, +we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, +without expending much of our imported provisions, +until the arrival of the deer in the month +of March, when we fared plentifully if not sumptuously.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page98" id="page98"></a>[pg 98]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#VII1">ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION</a>—<a href="#VII2">MY PROMOTION</a>—<a href="#VII3">WINTER +AT CHIMO</a>—<a href="#VII4">OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN</a>—<a href="#VII5">UNGAVA ABANDONED.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="VII1" id="VII1"></a>1841.—On the opening of the navigation I set +out on another exploring expedition. Without +entering into particulars so devoid of interest, +I would merely observe that, with patience and +perseverance, we ultimately succeeded in making +good our passage by the Hamilton, or Grand +River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect.</p> + +<p><a name="VII2" id="VII2"></a>On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the +vessel from Quebec riding at anchor—a joyful +sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page99" id="page99"></a>[pg 99]</span> +from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence +of the events that had occurred in the world for +the last twelve months. The Governor's communication +acquainted me with my promotion, +and <i>sincerely</i> congratulated me on the event. +Whether I had reason or not to doubt his sincerity, +let the reader judge who knows the treatment +I had experienced at his hands. Fifteen +years ago I was assured of being in the "direct +road to preferment,"—twenty years of toil and +misery have I served to obtain it.</p> + +<p>Considering myself, therefore, under no obligation +to his Excellency, I addressed a letter to the +Directors, expressing my thanks for the benefit +they had conferred upon me, and requesting permission +to visit the land of my nativity next year.</p> + +<p>I was fortunate enough to find a couple of +canoes at Esquimaux Bay, sufficiently large to +admit of conveying an outfit to the interior, and +equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman +in charge of the district, possessed the will and +ability to promote my views. All my arrangements +at this place being completed, I set off on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page100" id="page100"></a>[pg 100]</span> +my return, and was happy to find, on my arrival +at the outpost, that the outfit was rendered in +safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on the way.</p> + +<p><a name="VII3" id="VII3"></a>I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of +October. The dreary winter setting in immediately, +we commenced the usual course of vegetative +existence; and I consider it as unnecessary +as it would be uninteresting to say anything +further concerning it than that this season passed +without our being subjected to such grievous +privation as during the last. The greater part of +the people being distributed among the outposts, +reduced our expenditure of provisions so +much, that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the +score of starvation; and the precautions I had +taken the preceding winter enabled us not only +to indulge occasionally in the <i>luxuries</i> of bread-and-butter, +but also to contemplate the possibility +of the non-arrival of the ship without much anxiety.</p> + +<p><a name="VII4" id="VII4"></a>1842.—On the opening of the navigation I +again set out for Esquimaux Bay, where I found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page101" id="page101"></a>[pg 101]</span> +letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome +intelligence that my request for permission to visit +Britain had been granted, and that the Directors, +agreeably to my recommendation, had determined +on <a name="VII5" id="VII5"></a>abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered +round this season to convey the people and property to Esquimaux Bay.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page102" id="page102"></a>[pg 102]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>GENERAL REMARKS.</h3> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#VIII1">CLIMATE OF UNGAVA</a>—<a href="#VIII2">AURORA +BOREALIS</a>—<a href="#VIII3">SOIL</a>—<a href="#VIII4">VEGETABLE +PRODUCTIONS</a>—<a href="#VIII5">ANIMALS</a>—<a href="#VIII6">BIRDS</a>—<a href="#VIII7">FISH</a>—<a href="#VIII8">GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="VIII1" id="VIII1"></a>It need scarcely be observed that, in so high +a latitude as that of Ungava, the climate presents +the extremes of heat and cold; the moderate +temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, +the rigour of winter being immediately succeeded +by the intense heat of summer, and <i>vice versá</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer +was observed to rise from 10° below zero to +76° in the shade, the sky clear and the weather +calm; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. +For ten days previously the thermometer ranged +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page103" id="page103"></a>[pg 103]</span> +from 15° below zero to 32° above, and the weather +was as boisterous as in the month of January, +snowing and blowing furiously all the time. +The heat continued to increase, till the thermometer +frequently exhibited from 85° to 100° in +the shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, +be owing in a considerable degree to the reflection +of the solar rays from the rocky surface +of the country, a great part of which is destitute +of vegetation. When the wind blows from the +sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to +become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are +frequently experienced during summer, and are +probably caused by the sea's being always encumbered +by ice. It is remarkable that the +severest cold in this quarter is invariably accompanied +by stormy weather; whereas, in the +interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm.</p> + +<p>The winter may be said to commence in +October; by the end of this month the ground +is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller +lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page104" id="page104"></a>[pg 104]</span> +however, and the strength of the current, often keep +Ungava River open till the month of January. +At this period I have neither seen, read, nor +heard of any locality under heaven that can +offer a more cheerless abode to civilized man +than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by +the ice, when driven to and fro by the force of +the tide, continually stuns the ear; while the +light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs +in the air, shrouding everything in the gloom +of a dark twilight. If Pluto should leave his +own gloomy mansion <i>in tenebris tartari</i>, he might +take up his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange.</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>"The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs</p> +<p>The effect of fire."—<span class="sc">Milton</span>.</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>When the river sets fast, the beauties of the +winter scene are disclosed—one continuous surface +of glaring snow, with here and there a clump +of dwarf pine, of the bald summits of barren +hills, from which the violence of the winter +storms sweep away even the tenacious lichens. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page105" id="page105"></a>[pg 105]</span> +The winter storms are the most violent I +ever experienced, sweeping every thing before +them; and often prove fatal to the Indians +when overtaken by them in places where no +shelter can be found. The year previous to +my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to +a barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking +their women along with them. While engaged +in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them +to make for the mainland with all possible speed. +The women were soon exhausted by their exertions, +and, unable to proceed farther, were at +length covered by the snow, and left to their +fate. As soon as the fury of the storm abated, +the men went in search of them; but in vain; they were never found.</p> + +<p><a name="VIII2" id="VIII2"></a>During winter the sky is frequently illuminated +by the Aurora Borealis even in the day-time; +and I have observed that when the south wind, +the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, +the frost-bound regions of Canada and Labrador,) +blows for any length of time, the sky becomes +clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page106" id="page106"></a>[pg 106]</span> +however, does the east wind blow, which, being +charged with the vapours of the Atlantic, induces +mild weather even in midwinter, than they again +dart forth their coruscations—more brightly at +first, afterwards more faintly, till, if the wind +continue, they again disappear.</p> + +<p>These phenomena seem to warrant the conclusion +that the aurora is produced by the evolving +of the electric fluid, through the collision of bodies +of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are +observable in New Caledonia; the east wind, +passing over the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, +cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to +cause frost every month in summer; the west +wind, on the contrary, causes heat; and there, as +in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by +what may be termed the Mountain Aurora (<i>Aurora Montium</i>?)</p> + +<p>During my residence of five years at Ungava, +the thermometer fell twice to 53° below zero; +and frequently ranged from 38° to 48° for several +days together; the extreme heat rose to 100° at noon in the shade.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page107" id="page107"></a>[pg 107]</span> + +<p><a name="VIII3" id="VIII3"></a>The soil of Ungava consists principally of +decayed lichens, which form a substance resembling +the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In +this soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant +which I have not seen in any other part of the +continent, although it may elsewhere be found in +similar situations. In the low grounds along the +banks of rivers, the soil is generally deep and fertile +enough to produce timber of a large size; in the +valleys are found clumps of wood, which become +more and more stunted as they creep up the sides of +the sterile hills, till at length they degenerate into +lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the sea-coast +consist entirely of larch; which also predominates +in the interior, intermixed with white +pine, and a few poplars and birches. <a name="VIII4" id="VIII4"></a>The hardy +willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle +of soil to take root in; and the plant denominated +Labrador tea, flourishes luxuriantly in its native +soil. In favourable seasons the country is covered +with every variety of berries—blueberry, cranberry, +gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry, +ground raspberry (<i>rubus arcticus</i>), and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page108" id="page108"></a>[pg 108]</span> +billberry (<i>rubus chamæmorus</i>), a delicious fruit +produced in the swamps, and bearing some resemblance +to the strawberry in shape, but different +in flavour and colour, being yellow when ripe. +Liquorice root is found on the banks of South River.</p> + +<p><a name="VIII5" id="VIII5"></a>To enumerate the varieties of animals is an easy +task; the extremely barren nature of the country, +and the severity of the climate, prove so unfavourable +to the animal kingdom, that only a few of the +more hardy species are to be found here: viz.—</p> + +<p>Black, brown, grisly, and polar bears.</p> + +<p>Black, silver, cross, blue, red, and white foxes.</p> + +<p>Wolves, wolverines, martens, and the beaver (but extremely rare).</p> + +<p>Otters, minks, musk-rats, ermine.</p> + +<p>Arctic hares, rabbits, rein-deer; and the lemming, +in some parts of the interior.</p> + +<p>When we consider the great extent of country +that intervenes between Ungava and the plains of +the "far west," it seems quite inexplicable that +the grisly bear should be found in so insulated a +situation, and none in the intermediate country: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page109" id="page109"></a>[pg 109]</span> +the fact of their being here, however, does not +admit of a doubt, for I have traded and sent to +England several of their skins. The information +I have received from the natives induces me to +think that the varieties of colour in bears mark +them as distinct species, and not the produce of +the same litter, as some writers affirm. Why, +otherwise, do we not find the different varieties in +Canada, where the grisly bear has never been +seen? The sagacious animals seem to be well +aware of their generic affinity, since they are often +seen together, sharing the same carcass, and apparently +on terms of the most intimate fellowship.</p> + +<p>It is a singular circumstance, that she-bears with +young are seldom or never killed; at least it is so +extraordinary a circumstance, that when it does +happen, it is spoken of for years afterwards. She +must, therefore, retire to her den immediately after +impregnation; and cannot go above three months +with young; as instances have occurred of their +being found suckling their young in the month of +January, at which period they are not larger than +the common house-rat, presenting the appearance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page110" id="page110"></a>[pg 110]</span> +of animals in embryo, yet perfect in all their parts.</p> + +<p>Bruin prepares his hybernal dormitory with +great care, lining it with hay, and stopping up +the entrance with the same material; he enters it +in October, and comes out in the month of April. +He passes the winter alone, in a state of morbid +drowsiness, from which he is roused with difficulty; +and neither eats nor drinks, but seems to derive +nourishment from sucking his paws. He makes +his exit in spring apparently in as good condition +as when he entered; but a few days' exposure to +the air reduces him to skin and bone.</p> + +<p>The natives pay particular attention to the appearance +presented by the unoccupied dens they +may discover in summer: if bruin has removed +his litter of the preceding winter, he intends to +reoccupy the same quarters; if he allows it to +remain, he never returns; and the hunter takes +his measures accordingly.</p> + +<p>The black bear shuns the presence of man, and +is by no means a dangerous animal; the grisly +bear, on the contrary, commands considerable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page111" id="page111"></a>[pg 111]</span> +respect from the "lord of the creation," whom he +attacks without hesitation. By the natives, the +paw of a grisly bear is considered as honourable a +trophy as the scalp of a human enemy.</p> + +<p>The reports I have had, both from natives and +white trappers, confirm the opinion that certain +varieties of the fox belong to the same species,—such +as the black, silver, cross, and red; all of +which have been found in the same nest, but never +any of the white or blue. The former, too, are +distinguished for their cunning and sagacity; while +the latter are very stupid, and fall an easy prey to +the trapper; a circumstance of itself sufficient to +prove a difference of species.</p> + +<p>There are two varieties of the rein-deer,—the +migratory, and the stationary or wood-deer: the +latter is a much larger animal, but not abundant; +the former are extremely numerous, migrating in +herds at particular seasons, and observing certain +laws on their march, from which they seldom +deviate. The does make their appearance at Ungava +River generally in the beginning of March, +coming from the west, and directing their course +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page112" id="page112"></a>[pg 112]</span> +over the barren grounds near the coast, until they +reach George's River, where they halt to bring +forth their young, in the month of June. Meantime +the bucks, being divided into separate herds, +pursue a direct course through the interior, for the +same river, and remain scattered about on the +upper parts of it until the month of September, +when they assemble, and proceed slowly towards +the coast. By this time the does move onward +towards the interior, the fawns having now sufficient +strength to accompany them, and follow the +banks of George's River until they meet the bucks, +when the rutting season commences, in the month +of October; the whole then proceed together, +through the interior, to the place whence they +came. In the same manner, I have been informed, +the deer perform their migratory circuits everywhere; +observing the same order on their march, +following nearly the same route unless prevented +by accidental circumstances, and observing much +the same periods of arrival and departure.</p> + +<p>The colour of the rein-deer is uniformly the +same, presenting no variety of "spotted black +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page113" id="page113"></a>[pg 113]</span> +and red." In summer it is a very dark grey, +approaching to black, and light grey in winter. +The colour of the doe is of a darker shade than +that of the buck, whose breast is perfectly white in +winter. Individuals are seen of a white colour at all +seasons of the year. The bucks shed their antlers +in the month of December; the does in the +month of January. A few bucks are sometimes +to be met with who roam about apart from the +larger herds, and are in prime condition both in +summer and winter. These <i>solitaires</i> are said to +be unsuccessful candidates for the favours of the +does, who, having been worsted by their more +powerful rivals in <i>contentione amoris</i>, withdraw +from the community, and assuming the cowl, ever +after eschew female society; an opinion which +their good condition at all seasons seems to corroborate.</p> + +<p>The rein-deer is subject to greater annoyance +from flies than any other animal in the creation; +neither change of season nor situation exempts +them from this torture. Their great persecutor +is a species of gad-fly, (<i>œstries tarandi</i>,) that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page114" id="page114"></a>[pg 114]</span> +hovers around them in clouds during summer, +and makes them the instruments of their own +torture throughout the year. The fly, after +piercing the skin of the deer, deposits its eggs +between the outer and inner skin, where they +are hatched by the heat of the animal's body. +In the month of March, the chrysalides burst +through the skin, and drop on the ground, when +they may be seen crawling in immense numbers +along the deer paths as they pass from west to east.</p> + +<p><a name="VIII6" id="VIII6"></a>The only birds observed in winter are grouse, +ptarmigan, a small species of wood-pecker, +butcher-bird, and the diminutive tomtit. We +are visited in summer by swans, geese, ducks, +eagles, hawks, ravens, owls, robins, and swallows. +The eider-duck, so much prized for its down, +is found in considerable numbers. The geese are +of a most inferior kind, owing, I suppose, to the +poor feeding the country affords; when they +arrive in summer the ice is often still solid, when +they betake themselves to the hills, and feed on berries.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page115" id="page115"></a>[pg 115]</span> + +<p><a name="VIII7" id="VIII7"></a>The lakes produce only white fish, trout and +carp. We took now and then a few salmon in +the river, and there is no doubt that this fish abounds on the coast.</p> + +<p>In the sea are found the black whale, porpoise, +sea-horse, seal, and the narwal or sea unicorn; +the horn of the latter, solid ivory, is a beautiful +object. The largest I procured measured six feet +and a half in length, four inches in diameter at +the root, and a quarter of an inch at the point. +It is of a spiral form, and projects from near the +extremity of the snout; it presents a most singular +appearance when seen moving along above +the surface of the water, while the animal is concealed beneath.</p> + +<p><a name="VIII8" id="VIII8"></a>The geological features of the country present +so little variety, that one versed in that interesting +science would experience but little difficulty in +describing them; a mere outline, however, is all +I can venture to present.</p> + +<p>Along the sea-coast the formation is granitic +syenite; then, proceeding about forty miles in the +direction of South River, syenite occurs, which, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page116" id="page116"></a>[pg 116]</span> +about sixty miles higher up, runs into green +stone: very fine slate succeeds. At the height of +land dividing the waters that flow in different +directions, into Esquimaux and Ungava Bays, the +formation becomes syenitic schist, and continues so +to within a short distance of the great fall on +Hamilton River; when syenite succeeds; then +gneiss; and along the shores of Esquimaux Bay +syenitic gneiss, and pure quartz: lumps of black +and red hornblend are met with everywhere. The +country is covered with boulders rounded off by +the action of water, most of which are different +from the rocks <i>in situ</i>, and must have been transported +from a great distance, some being of +granite—a rock not to be found in this quarter.</p> + +<p>The rugged and precipitous banks of George's +River are occasionally surmounted by hills; at +the base of all these elevations, deep horizontal +indentures appear running in parallel lines opposite +each other on either side of the river,—a +circumstance which indicates the action of tides +and waves at a time when the other parts of the +land were submerged, and the tops of those hills +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page117" id="page117"></a>[pg 117]</span> +formed islands. Along certain parts of the coast +of Labrador rows of boulders are perceived lying +in horizontal lines; the lowest about two hundred +yards distant from high-water mark, while the +farthest extend to near the crest of the adjacent +hills. Several deep cavities and embankments of +sand are observed in the interior, bearing unequivocal +marks of having been, at one time, subject +to the influence of the sea.</p> + +<p>I shall conclude these few remarks by observing +that, whatever conclusions the geologist may +arrive at as to the remote or recent elevation of +this country, the tops of the higher hills appear +to have been formerly islands in the sea; and +I doubt not but the same may be said of the +higher lands on every part of the Arctic regions. +Admitting this to have been the case, it contributes +to confirm the theory of that distinguished +philosopher, Sir Charles Lyell, as to the +cause of the changes that have taken place in +the climate of the northern regions.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page118" id="page118"></a>[pg 118]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#IX1">THE NASCOPIES</a>—<a href="#IX2">THEIR RELIGION</a>—<a href="#IX3">MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS</a>—<a href="#IX4">CLOTHING</a>—<a href="#IX5">MARRIAGE</a>—<a href="#IX6">COMMUNITY +OF GOODS.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="IX1" id="IX1"></a>The Indians inhabiting the interior of Ungava, or, +it may be said with equal propriety, the interior +of Labrador, are a tribe of the Cree nation +designated Nascopies, and numbering about one +hundred men able to bear arms. Their language, +a dialect of the Cree or Cristeneau, exhibits a +considerable mixture of Sauteux words, with +a few peculiar to themselves. <a name="IX2" id="IX2"></a>The Nascopies +have the same religious belief as their kindred +tribes in every other part of the continent. They +believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, the +Ruler of the universe, and the Author of all +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page119" id="page119"></a>[pg 119]</span> +good. They believe, also, in the existence of +a bad spirit, the author of all evil. Each is +believed to be served by a number of subordinate +spirits. Sacrifices are offered to each; to the +good, by way of supplication and gratitude; to +the evil, by way of conciliation and deprecation. +Their local genii are also supposed to be possessed +of the power of doing good, or inflicting +evil, and are likewise propitiated by sacrifices; +the "men of medicine" are viewed in nearly the +same light. A few of them who visit the king's +posts, have been baptized, and taught to mutter +something they call prayers, and on this account +are esteemed good Christians by their tutors; +while every action of their lives proves them to +be as much Pagans as ever; at least, to those who +look for some <i>fruit</i> of faith, and who may be +ignorant of the miraculous efficacy of holy water, +and can form no idea of its operation on the soul, they appear so.</p> + +<p><a name="IX3" id="IX3"></a>Of all the Indians I have seen, the Nascopies +seem most averse to locomotion; many of them +grow up to man's estate without once visiting a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page120" id="page120"></a>[pg 120]</span> +trading post. Previously to the establishment of +this post they were wont to assemble at a certain +rendezvous in the interior, and deliver their furs +to some elderly man of the party, who proceeded +with them to the King's posts, or Esquimaux Bay, +and traded them for such articles as they required. +So little intercourse have this people had with +the whites, that they may be still considered +as unsophisticated "children of nature," and +possessed, of course, of all the virtues ascribed to +such; yet I must say, that my acquaintance with +them disclosed nothing that impressed me with +a higher opinion of them than of my own race, +corrupted as they are by the arts of civilized life.</p> + +<p>The Nascopie freely indulges all the grosser +passions of his nature; he has no term in his +language to express the sensation of shame; the +feeling and the word are alike unknown. Many +circumstances might be adduced in proof of this, +but I have no desire to disgust the reader. +Previously to our arrival here, there was not +such an article of domestic utility known among +them as a spoon; the unclean hand performed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page121" id="page121"></a>[pg 121]</span> +every office. They take their meals sitting in +a circle round a kettle, and commence operations +by skimming off the fat with their hands, and +lapping it up like dogs; then every one helps +himself to the solids, cutting, gnawing, and tearing +until the whole is devoured, or until repletion +precludes further exertions, when, like the gorged +beast of prey, they lie down to sleep.</p> + +<p>The Nascopies practise polygamy more from +motives of convenience than any other—the +more wives, the more slaves. The poor creatures, +in fact, are in a state of relentless slavery; every +species of drudgery devolves upon them. When +they remove from camp to camp in winter, the +women set out first, dragging sledges loaded with +their effects, and such of the children as are +incapable of walking; meantime the men remain +in the abandoned encampment smoking their +pipes, until they suppose the women are sufficiently +far advanced on the route to reach the +new encampment ere they overtake them.</p> + +<p>Arrived at the spot, the women clear the +ground of snow, erect the tents, and collect fuel; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page122" id="page122"></a>[pg 122]</span> +and when their arrangements are completed, their +lords step in to enjoy themselves. The sole +occupation of the men is hunting, and, in winter, +fishing. They do not even carry home the game; +that duty also falls to the lot of the female, +unless when the family has been starving for +some time, when the men condescend to carry +home enough for immediate use.</p> + +<p>The horrid practice still obtains among the +Nascopies of destroying their parents and relatives, +when old age incapacitates them for further +exertion. I must, however, do them the justice +to say, that the parent himself expresses a wish +to depart, otherwise the unnatural deed would +probably never be committed; for they in general +treat their old people with much care and tenderness. +The son or nearest relative performs +the office of executioner,—the self-devoted victim +being disposed of by strangulation.<a id="footnotetag1" name="footnotetag1"></a><a href="#footnote1"><sup>1</sup></a> When any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page123" id="page123"></a>[pg 123]</span> +one dies in winter, the body is placed on a scaffold +till summer, when it is interred.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote1" name="footnote1"></a><b>Footnote 1: </b><a href="#footnotetag1">(return) </a><p>"Quidam parentes et propinquos, priusquam annis et +macie conficiantur, velut hostias cædunt, <i>eorumque visceribus +epulantur</i>." The Nascopies do not feast on the "viscera" of +their victims, nor do I believe the inhabitants of India, or of +any other country under heaven, ever did. Yet the coincidence +is singular, in other respects, at such a distance of time and place.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The Nascopies depend principally on the rein-deer +for subsistence,—a dependence which the +erratic habits of these animals render extremely +precarious. Should they happen to miss the deer +on their passage through the country in autumn, +they experience the most grievous inconvenience, +and often privations, the succeeding winter; as +they must then draw their living from the lakes, +with unremitting toil,—boring the ice, which is +sometimes from eight to nine feet thick, for the +purpose of setting their hooks, and perhaps not +taking a single fish after a day's hard work. +Nevertheless, they must still continue their exertions +till they succeed, shifting their hooks from +one part of the lake to another, until every spot +is searched. They understand the art of setting +nets under the ice perfectly. Towards the latter +end of December, however, the fish gain the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page124" id="page124"></a>[pg 124]</span> +deep water, and remain still to the latter end of +March. Not a fish enters the net during this period.</p> + +<p>Partridges are very numerous in certain localities, +but cannot be trusted to as a means of +living, as every part of the country affords them +food, and when much annoyed at one place they move off to another.</p> + +<p>It will be seen from the foregoing remarks, +that the Nascopies, like all other erratic tribes, +are subject to the vicissitudes their mode of life +necessarily involves; at one time wallowing in +abundance, at another dying of want. Fortunately +for themselves, they are at present the +most independent of the whites of any other +Indians on this continent, the Esquimaux excepted. +The few fur-bearing animals their barren +country affords are so highly prized, that the +least exertion enables them to procure their very +limited wants; and the skin of the rein-deer +affords them the most comfortable clothing they +could possess. They have a particular art, too, +of dressing this skin, so as to render it as soft +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page125" id="page125"></a>[pg 125]</span> +and pliable as chamois, in which state it becomes +a valuable article of trade.</p> + +<p>As trading posts, however, are now established +on their lands, I doubt not but artificial wants +will, in time, be created, that may become as +indispensable to their comfort as their present +real wants. All the arts of the trader are +exercised to produce such a result, and those +arts never fail of ultimate success. Even during +the last two years of my management, the demand +for certain articles of European manufacture had greatly increased.</p> + +<p><a name="IX4" id="IX4"></a>The winter dress of the Nascopie consists of a +jacket of deer-skin, close all round, worn with the +hair next the skin, and an over-coat of the same +material reaching to his knees, the hair outside. +This coat overlaps in front, and is secured by a +belt, from which depends his knife and smoking-bag. +A pair of leather breeches, and leggings, +or stockings of cloth, protect his legs, though but +imperfectly, from the cold; his hands, however, +are well defended by a pair of gauntlets that +reach his elbows; and on his head he wears a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page126" id="page126"></a>[pg 126]</span> +cap richly ornamented with bear's and eagle's +claws. His long thick hair, however, renders the +head-gear an article of superfluity,—but it is the +fashion. The dress of the women consists of a +square piece of dressed deer-skin, girt round them +by a cloth or worsted belt, and fastened over their +shoulders by leather straps; a jacket of leather, +and cloth leggings. I have also observed some of +them wearing a garment in imitation of a gown. +The leather dresses, both of men and women, are +generally painted; and often display more taste +than one would be disposed to give them credit for.</p> + +<p>The travelling equipage of the Nascopies consists +of a small leather tent, a deer-skin robe with +the hair on, a leather bag with some down in it, +and a kettle. When he lies down he divests +himself of his upper garment, which he spreads +under him; then, thrusting his limbs into the +down bag, and rolling himself up in his robe, he +draws his knees up close to his chin; and thus +defended, the severest cold does not affect him.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page127" id="page127"></a>[pg 127]</span> + +<p><a name="IX5" id="IX5"></a>Considering the manner in which their women are +treated, it can scarcely be supposed that their courtships +are much influenced by sentiments of love; in +fact, the tender passion seems unknown to the +savage breast. When a young man attains a +certain age, and considers himself able to provide +for a wife—if the term may be so debased—he +acquaints his parents with his wish, and gives +himself no further concern about the matter, +until they have concluded the matrimonial negotiations +with the parents of <i>their</i>, not <i>his</i> intended, +whose sentiments are never consulted on the +occasion. The youth then proceeds to his father-in-law's +tent, and remains there for a twelvemonth; +at the end of this period he may remain +longer or depart, and he is considered ever after +as an independent member of the community, +subject to no control. Marriages are allowed +between near relatives; cousins are considered +as brothers and sisters, and are addressed by the +same terms. It is not considered improper to +marry two sisters, either in succession or both at the same time.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page128" id="page128"></a>[pg 128]</span> + +<p>The Nascopies have certain customs in hunting +peculiar to themselves. If a wounded animal +escape, even a short distance, ere he drops, +he becomes the property of the person who first +reaches him, and not of the person who shot him; +or if the animal be mortally wounded and do +not fall immediately, and another Indian fire +and bring him down, the last shot gains the prize.</p> + +<p><a name="IX6" id="IX6"></a>In their intercourse with us the Nascopies +evince a very different disposition from the other +branches of the Cree family, being selfish and +inhospitable in the extreme; exacting rigid payment +for the smallest portion of food. Yet I do +not know that we have any right to blame a +practice in them, which they have undoubtedly +learned from us. What do they obtain from +us without payment? Nothing:—not a shot +of powder,—not a ball,—not a flint. But +whatever may be said of their conduct towards +the whites, no people can exercise the laws +of hospitality with greater generosity, or show +less selfishness, towards each other, than the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page129" id="page129"></a>[pg 129]</span> +Nascopies. The only part of an animal the huntsman +retains for himself is the head; every other +part is given up for the common benefit. Fish, +flesh, and fowl are distributed in the same liberal +and impartial manner; and he who contributes +most seems as contented with his share, however +small it may be, as if he had had no share in +procuring it. In fact, a community of goods +seems almost established among them; the few +articles they purchase from us shift from hand +to hand, and seldom remain more than two or +three days in the hands of the original purchaser.</p> + +<p>The Nascopies, surrounded by kindred tribes, +are strangers to the calamities of war, and are +consequently a peaceful, harmless people; yet +they cherish the unprovoked enmity of their race +towards the poor Esquimaux, whom they never +fail to attack, when an opportunity offers of +doing so with impunity. Our presence, however, +has had the effect of establishing a more friendly +intercourse between them; and to the fact that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page130" id="page130"></a>[pg 130]</span> +many of the Esquimaux have of late acquired +fire-arms, and are not to be attacked without +some risk, may be ascribed, in no small +degree, the present forbearance of their enemies.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page131" id="page131"></a>[pg 131]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="X" id="X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#X1">THE ESQUIMAUX</a>—<a href="#X2">PROBABLE ORIGIN</a>—<a href="#X3">IDENTITY OF LANGUAGE +FROM LABRADOR TO BEHRING'S STRAITS</a>—<a href="#X4">THEIR +AMOURS</a>—<a href="#X5">MARRIAGES</a>—<a href="#X6">RELIGION</a>—<a href="#X7">TREATMENT OF +PARENTS</a>—<a href="#X8">ANECDOTE</a>—<a href="#X9">MODE +OF PRESERVING MEAT</a>—<a href="#X10">AMUSEMENTS</a>—<a href="#X11">DRESS</a>—<a href="#X12">THE +IGLOE, OR SNOW-HOUSE</a>—<a href="#X13">THEIR +CUISINE</a>—<a href="#X14">DOGS</a>—<a href="#X15">THE SLEDGE</a>—<a href="#X16">CAIAK, OR +CANOE</a>—<a href="#X17">OUIMIAK, +OR BOAT</a>—<a href="#X18">IMPLEMENTS</a>—<a href="#X19">STATURE.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="X1" id="X1"></a>The Esquimaux are so totally different in physiognomy +and person, in language, manners, and +customs, from all the other natives of America, +that there can be no doubt that they belong to a +different branch of the human race. The conformation +of their features, their stature, form, and +complexion, approximate so closely to those of the +northern inhabitants of Europe, as to indicate, +with some degree of certainty, their identity of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page132" id="page132"></a>[pg 132]</span> +origin. In the accounts I have read of the maritime +Laplanders, I find many characteristics common +to both tribes: the Laplander is of a swarthy +complexion,—so is the Esquimaux; the Laplander +is distinguished by high cheek-bones, hollow +cheeks, pointed chin, and large mouth,—so is the +Esquimaux; the Laplander wears a thick beard,—so +does the Esquimaux; the Laplander's hair is +long and black,—so is that of the Esquimaux; +the Laplanders are, for the most part, short of +stature,—so are the Esquimaux; and the dress, +food, and lodging of both peoples are nearly the +same. The last coincidence may possibly arise +from similarity of location and climate; and, +taken by itself, would afford no certain proof of +identity of origin; but taken in connexion with +the aforementioned characteristics, I think the +conclusion is irresistible that the Laplanders and +Esquimaux are of the same race.</p> + +<p><a name="X2" id="X2"></a>That the Esquimaux and the natives of Greenland +are also of a kindred race, is a fact ascertained +beyond a doubt, from the reports of the Moravian +Missionaries, who have settlements among both.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page133" id="page133"></a>[pg 133]</span> + +<p><a name="X3" id="X3"></a>The way in which they must have passed from +the one continent to the other, must now be left +to conjecture. There is nothing improbable in +the supposition that some of them might have +been drifted out to sea by stress of weather, and +wafted to the shores of Greenland; whence some +might, in course of time, remove to the opposite +coast of America. From the southern extremity +of Labrador to Behring's Straits, the Esquimaux +language is the same, differing only in the pronunciation +of a few words. We had a native of +Hudson's Bay with us, who had accompanied Captain +Franklin to the McKenzie and Coppermine +Rivers, and who assured us that he understood the +Esquimaux of that quarter, and those of Ungava, +although some thousands of miles apart, as well as his own tribe.</p> + +<p>In manners, customs, and dress, there is a +like similarity. The Esquimaux have ever remained +a distinct people; the other natives of +America seeming to consider them more as brutes +than human beings, and never approaching them +unless for the purpose of knocking them on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page134" id="page134"></a>[pg 134]</span> +head. Every one's hand is against them. I have +seen Esquimaux scalps, even among the timid +<i>têtes des boules</i> of Temiscamingue; yet no people +seem more disposed to live at peace with their +neighbours, if only they were allowed. Circumstanced +as they are, however, they are likely to +suffer hostile aggression for a long time. Even +a coward, with a musket in his hand, is generally +an overmatch for a brave man with only a bow or +a sling; but once possessed of fire-arms, they will +teach their enemies to respect them, for they +will undoubtedly have the advantage of superior courage and resolution.</p> + +<p><a name="X4" id="X4"></a>The Esquimaux is not easily excited to anger; +but his wrath once roused, he becomes furious: he +foams like a wild boar, rolls his eyes, gnashes his +teeth, and rushes on his antagonist with the fury +of a beast of prey. In the winter of 1840, a +quarrel arose between two individuals about the +sex, which led to a fight; the struggle was continued +for a time with tooth and nail; when one +of the parties at length got hold of his knife, and +stabbed his adversary in the belly. The bowels +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page135" id="page135"></a>[pg 135]</span> +protruded, yet the wounded man never desisted, +until loss of blood and repeated stabs compelled +him to yield the contest and his life. Gallantry +seems to be the main cause of quarrels among them. +Strange! that this passion should exercise such an +influence in a climate, and, as one would be led to +suppose, on constitutions so cold; yet nothing is +more certain than that the enamoured Esquimaux +will risk life and limb in the pursuit of his object.</p> + +<p>With unmarried women there is no risk, as they +are entirely free from control; not so with the +married, who are under strict surveillance; but +the husband's consent asked and obtained—which +not seldom happens—saves the gallant's head, and the lady's reputation.</p> + +<p><a name="X5" id="X5"></a>Their courtships are conducted in much the +same manner as among the inland Indians, the +choice of partners being entirely left to the +parents. Some are affianced in childhood, and +become man and wife in early youth: I have seen +a boy of fourteen living with his wife who was +two years younger. There are no marriage festivals, +and no ceremonies of any kind are observed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page136" id="page136"></a>[pg 136]</span> +at their nuptials. Polygamy is allowed, <i>ad libitum</i>; +and the husband exercises his authority as +husband, judge, or executioner; no one having any +right to interfere. Should, however, the woman +consider herself ill-treated, she flees to her parents, +with whom she remains till an explanation takes +place. If it lead to a reconciliation, the parties are +reunited; if not, the woman may form a new connexion whenever she pleases.</p> + +<p><a name="X6" id="X6"></a>I know not whether the Esquimaux can be said +to have any idea of religion, as the term is generally +understood. The earth, say they, was in the +beginning covered with water, which having subsided, +man appeared—a spontaneous creation. +Aglooktook is the name of the man who first +created fish and animals: chopping a tree which +overhung the sea, the chips that fell into that element +became fish; those that fell on the land, +animals. Their paradise is beneath the great +deep; those who have lived a good life, proceed +to a part of the sea abounding with whales and +seals, where, free from care and toil, they fare +sumptuously on raw flesh and blubber, <i>in secula</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page137" id="page137"></a>[pg 137]</span> +<i>seculorum</i>. The wicked, on the contrary, are +condemned to take up their abode in a "sea of +troubles," where none of the delicacies enjoyed by +the blessed are to be found; and even the commonest +necessaries are procured with endless toil, +and pain, and disappointment. Although the +"tomakhs," or dead men, become the inhabitants +of the sea, they indulge in the pleasures of the +chase on their old element, whenever they please; +and are often heard calling to each other while in pursuit of the deer.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux have their "men of medicine," +in whose preternatural powers they place the +most implicit confidence; by working on the +superstitious fears of the people, these impostors +obtain much authority. They are allowed to take +the lead in every affair of importance; and, in +short, all their movements are, in a great measure, +regulated by these harlequins, who appear to be +the only chiefs among them.</p> + +<p>They dispose of their dead by placing them on +the rocks, and covering them over with ice or +stones; these tombs prove but feeble barriers +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page138" id="page138"></a>[pg 138]</span> +against the wolves and other beasts of prey, who +soon carry off the bodies. The property belonging +to the deceased is placed by the side of his grave;—his +caiak, or skin canoe, his bows, arrows, and +spears. Thus equipped, the <i>emigrant</i> spirit +cannot find itself at a loss on arriving at a better country!</p> + +<p><a name="X7" id="X7"></a>It is said by some that the Esquimaux abandon +their aged parents: from inquiry, as well as +observation, I am led to believe there is no +foundation for the charge. It is not reasonable +to expect that the more refined feelings of +humanity should be found in the breast of a +savage, or that he should honour his father and +mother in the same degree as he whose principles +are moulded by the precepts of Christianity; yet +I must do them the justice to say, that they +appeared to me to treat their parents with as +much kindness, at least, as any other savage nation +I have met with. They do not deny, however, +that old people no longer able to provide for +themselves, and without any relative to care for +them, are sometimes left to perish.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page139" id="page139"></a>[pg 139]</span> + +<p><a name="X8" id="X8"></a>No people suffer more from hunger than the +Esquimaux who inhabit the shores of Ungava +Bay; seals being extremely scarce in the winter +season, and no fish to be found; so that +the poor creatures are often reduced to the +most revolting expedients to preserve life. +An Esquimaux, who had been about the post +for two years, proceeded, in the winter of 1839, +to join some of his relatives along the coast. +When he returned in the ensuing spring, I observed +that his mother and one of his children +were missing. On inquiring what had become +of them, he replied, that they had been starved to +death, and that he and the rest of his family +would have shared their fate, had it not been for +the sustenance the bodies afforded.</p> + +<p><a name="X9" id="X9"></a>The Esquimaux always pass the winter near +the element that yields them their principal +subsistence; and as they are unacquainted with +the use of snow-shoes, they cannot follow the +deer any distance from the coast. As soon as +the rivers are free from ice in summer, they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page140" id="page140"></a>[pg 140]</span> +proceed inland and find abundance of food. +Their manner of preserving their meat is quite +characteristic. When an animal is killed the +bowels are extracted, then the fore and hind +quarters are cut off, and being placed inside the carcass, +are secured by skewers of wood run through +the flesh. The whole is then deposited under +the nearest cleft of rock, and stones are built +round so as to secure it from the depredations +of wild animals until the hunters return to the +coast; when the meat is in high flavour, and +considered fit for the palate of an Esquimaux epicure.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux do not share their provisions +as the Nascopies do, although they relieve each +other's wants when their means can afford it: +each individual engaged in the chase retains his +own game, his claim being ascertained by distinctive +marks on the arrows. When a whale is +killed a rigid fast is observed for twenty-four +hours, not in gratitude to Providence, but in +honour of the whale, which is highly displeased +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page141" id="page141"></a>[pg 141]</span> +when this is neglected, studiously avoiding the +harpoon afterwards, and even visiting the offender +with sickness and other misfortunes.</p> + +<p><a name="X10" id="X10"></a>Should the summer and fall hunt prove successful, +the Esquimaux is one of the happiest +animals in the creation. He passes his dreary +winter without one careful or anxious thought; +he eats his fill and lies down to sleep, and then +rises to eat again. In this manner they pass the +greater part of their time; night and day are the +same, eating and sleeping their chief enjoyments. +When, however, they do rouse their dormant +faculties to exertion, they seem to engage with +great good-will in the few amusements they have, +the principal of which is playing ball, men and +women joining in the game. Two parties are +opposed, the one driving the ball with sticks +towards the goal, the other driving it in the +opposite direction; in short, a game of shinty. +They have dancing too,—ye gods! such dancing! +Two rows of men and women, sometimes only of +one sex, stand opposite to each other, exhibiting +no other motion in their dancing than raising +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page142" id="page142"></a>[pg 142]</span> +their shoulders with a peculiar jerk, bending their +knees so as to give their whole bodies, from the +knee upwards, the same motion, and grinning +horribly at each other, while not a foot stirs.</p> + +<p>As to the music to which this <i>dance</i> is performed, +I know not well how to describe it. +By inflating and depressing the lungs so as to +create a convulsive heaving of the breast, a sound +is produced, somewhat similar to the groans of a +person suffering from suffocation; and it is to this +sound they grin, and jerk their shoulders. The +whole performance is quite in keeping; the music +worthy of the dancing, the dancing worthy of the +music. They have boxing too, but do not +practise the art after the fashion of the Cribs +and Coopers; they disdain to parry off the blow; +each strikes in turn with clenched fist; the blow +is given behind the ear, and, as soon as one of the +parties acknowledges himself defeated, the combat +ceases. They are also adepts at wrestling; I +have witnessed frequent contests between them +and the inland Indians, when the latter were invariably floored.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page143" id="page143"></a>[pg 143]</span> + +<p>No one enjoys a joke better than an Esquimaux, +and when his risibility is excited he laughs +with right good will, evincing in this, as in every +other respect, the difference of disposition between +them and the Indians, whose rigid features seldom +betray their feelings. Much the same diversity +of character and disposition is to be observed +among the Esquimaux as among other barbarous +tribes. Some instances of disinterested kindness +and generosity fell under my notice while residing +among them, that would have done honour to civilized man.</p> + +<p>An Esquimaux who had attached himself to the +establishment from the time of our first arrival at +Ungava, kept a poor widow and her three orphans +with him for several years, and seemed to make +no difference between them and the members of +his own family. It must be acknowledged, however, +that the unhappy widows seldom fall into +so good hands; their fate is the most wretched +that can be imagined, unless they have children +that can provide for them. In years of scarcity +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page144" id="page144"></a>[pg 144]</span> +they are rejected from the community, and hover +about the encampments like starving wolves, +picking up whatever chance may throw in their +way, until hunger and cold terminate their wretched existence.</p> + +<p><a name="X11" id="X11"></a>Whatever may be said of the awkwardness of the +Esquimaux dress, it must be allowed to be the +best adapted to the climate that could be used: +a pair of boots so skilfully sewed as to exclude +the water, and lined with down, or the fine hair +of the rein-deer, protects the feet from wet and +cold; two pairs of trousers, the inner having the +hair next the skin; and two coats or tunics of +deer or seal skin, the outer having a large hood +that is drawn over the head in stormy weather, +and a pair of large mits, complete the dress. The +women also "wear the breeks," their dress being +similar to that of the men in every respect, with +this difference, that the female has a long flap +attached to the hind part of her coat, and falling +down to her heels; a most extraordinary ornament, +giving her the appearance of an enormous +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page145" id="page145"></a>[pg 145]</span> +tadpole. This tail, however, has its use; when +she has occasion to sit down on the cold rocks +she folds it up and makes a seat of it.</p> + +<p><a name="X12" id="X12"></a>In the winter season the Esquimaux live in +huts built of snow; and we may imagine what +must have been the necessity and distress that +could first have suggested to a human being the +idea of using such a material as a means of protecting +himself from cold. Be that as it may, +the snow <i>igloe</i> affords not only security from +the inclemency of the weather, but more comfort +than either stone or wooden building without fire. +The operation requires considerable tact and experience, +and is always performed by the men, +two being required for it, one outside and the other inside.</p> + +<p>Blocks of snow are first cut out with some sharp +instrument from the spot that is intended to form +the floor of the dwelling, and raised on edge, inclining +a little inward around the cavity. These +blocks are generally about two feet in length, two +feet in breadth, and eight inches thick, and are +joined close together. In this manner the edifice +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page146" id="page146"></a>[pg 146]</span> +is erected, contracting at each successive tier, +until there only remains a small aperture at the +top, which is filled by a slab of clear ice, that +serves both as a keystone to the arch, and a +window to light the dwelling. An embankment +of snow is raised around the wall, and covered +with skins, which answers the double purpose of +beds and seats. The inside of the hut presents +the figure of an arch or dome; the usual dimensions +are ten or twelve feet in diameter, and about +eight feet in height at the centre. Sometimes +two or three families congregate under the same +roof, having separate apartments communicating +with the main building, that are used as bedrooms. +The entrance to the igloe is effected through a +winding covered passage, which stands open by +day, but is closed up at night by placing slabs of +ice at the angle of each bend, and thus the inmates +are perfectly secured against the severest cold.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux use no fuel in winter; their +stone lamps afford sufficient heat to dry their +boots and clothes, or warm their blubber and raw +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page147" id="page147"></a>[pg 147]</span> +meat when they are so inclined. They are inured +to cold by early habit; the children are carried +about in the hoods of their mothers' jackets until +three years of age; during this period they remain +without a stitch of clothing, and the little things +may be sometimes seen standing up in their nests, +exposing themselves in the coldest weather, without +appearing to suffer any inconvenience from it. +The Esquimaux never sleep with their clothes on, +not even when without any other shelter than the cleft of a rock.</p> + +<p><a name="X13" id="X13"></a>It is well known that they eat their food, +whether fish or flesh, generally in a raw state; +hence their appellation, "Ashkimai," in the Cree +and Sauteux, means, eater of raw meat, and is +doubtless the origin of the name Esquimaux first +applied by the earlier French discoverers, and since +then passed into general use. They sometimes, +indeed, warm their food in a stone kettle over a +stone lamp, but they seem to relish it equally +well when cut warm from the carcase of an animal +recently killed, which they may be seen devouring +while yet quivering with life.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page148" id="page148"></a>[pg 148]</span> + +<p>In winter they prefer raw meat, especially fish, +which is considered a great delicacy in a frozen +state; the Esquimaux stomach, in fact, rejects +nothing, raw or boiled, that affords sustenance. +Like the inland Indians, they can bear hunger for +an amazing length of time, and afterwards gorge +themselves with more than brutal voracity without +suffering inconvenience by it.</p> + +<p><a name="X14" id="X14"></a>The Esquimaux breed of dogs are wolves in a +domesticated state, the same in every characteristic, +save such differences as may be expected to +result from their relative conditions; the dog +howls, never barks. These animals are of the +most essential service to their masters, and are +maintained at no expense. How they manage to +subsist appears inexplicable to me; not a morsel +of food is ever offered to them at the camp, and +when employed hauling sledges on a journey, a +small piece of blubber given them in the evening +enables them to perform the laborious work of the ensuing day.</p> + +<p><a name="X15" id="X15"></a>From ten to fifteen dogs are employed on a long +journey. They are harnessed separately by a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page149" id="page149"></a>[pg 149]</span> +collar and a single trace passing over their back, +and fastened to the fore-part of the sledge. The +traces are so arranged that the dogs generally +follow in a line, conducted by a leader, who is +trained to obey the word of command in an +instant; the least hesitation on his part brings +the merciless whip about his ears. The lash is +about fifteen feet in length, the handle eighteen +inches; continual practice enables the Esquimaux +to wield this instrument of torture with great +dexterity. The sledges are about five feet in +length and two in breadth; the runners generally +shod with whalebone or ivory, and coated over +with a plaster of earth and water, which becomes +very smooth, and is renewed as often as it is worn out.</p> + +<p><a name="X16" id="X16"></a>The Esquimaux <i>caiak</i>, or canoe, is about twelve +feet in length, and two feet in breadth, and tapers +off from the centre to the bow and stern, almost +to a mere point. The frame is of wood covered +with seal-skin, having an aperture in the centre +which barely admits of the stowage of the nether +man. These canoes are calculated for the accommodation +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page150" id="page150"></a>[pg 150]</span> +of one person only; yet it is possible for +a passenger to embark upon them, if he can +submit to the inconvenience—and risk—of lying +at full length on his belly, without ever stirring +hand or foot, as the least motion would upset the +canoe. Instances, however, have been known +of persons conveyed hundreds of miles in this +manner. These canoes are used solely for hunting; +and, by means of the double paddle, are +propelled through the water with the velocity of +the dolphin; no land animal can possibly escape +when seen in the water; the least exertion is sufficient +to keep up with the rein-deer when swimming +at its utmost speed. When the animal is +overtaken, it is driven towards the spot where the +huntsman wishes to land, and there despatched by a thrust of the spear.</p> + +<p><a name="X17" id="X17"></a>The Esquimaux of this quarter have not the +art of recovering their position, when they upset. +An accident of this kind is, therefore, sure to +prove fatal, unless aid be at hand. It is seldom, +however, that aid is wanting, for these accidents +never happen except in the excitement of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page151" id="page151"></a>[pg 151]</span> +sport, especially harpooning whales, when there +are always a number present. The <i>ouimiack</i>, or +skin-boat, is a clumsy-looking contrivance, but +not to be despised on that account; from the +buoyancy of the materials of which it is built, the +ouimiack stands a much heavier sea than our best +sea-boat. This kind of craft is rowed by women, +and used for the purpose of conveying families along the coast.</p> + +<p><a name="X18" id="X18"></a>The few implements these people use for hunting +or fishing, display much taste and ingenuity. +Their caiaks are proportioned with mathematical +exactness, the paddles often tastefully inlaid with +ivory; their spears are neatly carved, and their +bows are far superior to any I have seen among +the interior tribes, combining strength and elasticity in an eminent degree.</p> + +<p>Their mode of capturing the white whale is +extremely ingenious. A large <i>dan</i>, or seal-skin +inflated with wind, is attached to the harpoon by +a thong some twenty feet in length. The moment +the fish is struck the <i>dan</i> is thrown overboard, +and being dragged through the water, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page152" id="page152"></a>[pg 152]</span> +offers so great a resistance to the movement of +the fish that it soon becomes exhausted by the +exertion, and when it emerges lies exposed on +the water, to take rest ere it dive again. The +Esquimaux then approaches from behind, and +often secures his game with one thrust of the +spear. The Esquimaux also uses a javelin with +considerable skill, and some are so dexterous in +the use of the sling as to bring down wild fowl on the wing.</p> + +<p>The complexion of the Esquimaux is swarthy; +I have seen some of their children, however, as fair +as the children of the fairest people in Europe, +yet these become as dark as their parents when +advanced in years. This circumstance cannot be +accounted for by filthiness or exposure to the +weather; for I have observed, on the coast of +Labrador, the descendants of an Esquimaux +mother and a European father of the third generation +as dark as the pure Esquimaux; and these, +too, enjoyed the comforts of civilized life, were +cleanly in their persons, and not more exposed +to the weather than others.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page153" id="page153"></a>[pg 153]</span> + +<p><a name="X19" id="X19"></a>The Esquimaux are low of stature, but I do +not think the epithet "dwarfish" applies to them +with propriety. With the view of ascertaining +this point, I once took five men promiscuously +from a party of twenty, and found their average +height to be 5 feet 5 inches. Some individuals +of the remainder measured 5 feet 7 or 8 inches, +and one exceeded 6 feet. The fact is, the Esquimaux +are generally thicker than Europeans; +their peculiar dress also adds greatly to their +bulk, so that they appear shorter than they really +are. They are so bound up in their seal-skin +garments that their movements are necessarily +much impeded by them, we can, therefore, form +no idea of their agility; but I do not hesitate to +say that their strength exceeds that of any other nation on the continent.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux features are far from being +disagreeable; some females I observed among +them whose expression of countenance was extremely +prepossessing, and who would pass for +"bonnie lasses" even among the whites, if divested +of their filth and uncouth dress, and rigged out in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page154" id="page154"></a>[pg 154]</span> +European habiliments. The women fasten their +hair in a knot on the crown of the head, and +anoint it with rancid oil in lieu of pomatum; +they also tattoo their faces, with the view, no +doubt, of enhancing their charms in the estimation +of their blubber-eating lovers. Their teeth are +remarkably white and regular; the eyes are +black, and partake more of the circular than the +oval form; the cheek-bones are prominent, forehead +low, mouth large, and chin pointed.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux generally enjoy good health, +and no epidemic diseases, as far as I could learn, are known among them.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page155" id="page155"></a>[pg 155]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XI" id="XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XI1">LABRADOR</a>—<a href="#XI2">ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS</a>—<a href="#XI3">MORAVIAN BRETHREN</a>—<a href="#XI4">EUROPEAN +INHABITANTS</a>—<a href="#XI5">THEIR VIRTUES</a>—<a href="#XI6">CLIMATE</a>—<a href="#XI7">ANECDOTE.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XI1" id="XI1"></a>The country denominated Labrador, extends from +Esquimaux Bay, on the Straits of Belleisle, to +the extremity of the continent, Cape Chudleigh, +at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior +is inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers +and Nascopies, members of the Cree +family. <a name="XI2" id="XI2"></a>The coast was inhabited at one time by +Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now +peopled by a mongrel race of Esquimaux half-breeds, +a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some +English and Canadian fishermen and trappers, +who are assimilated to the natives in manners and +in mode of life. While the European inhabitants +adopt from necessity some of the native customs, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page156" id="page156"></a>[pg 156]</span> +the natives have adopted so much of the European +customs that their primitive characteristics are no +longer distinguishable; they cook their victuals, +drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally +dress after the European manner, especially the +females, who always wear gowns. They have also +a smattering of French and English, and are great +proficients in swearing in both languages; nor +do they seem ignorant of the more refined arts +of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking everything +into account, however, we may be surprised +that their manners are not more corrupt than they are.</p> + +<p>A number of small trading vessels from the +United States hover about the coast during summer; +the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a +primary article in their outfit, and is bartered +freely for such commodities as the natives may +possess. These adventurers are generally men of +loose principles, and are ever ready to take the +advantage of their customers. The natives, however, +are now so well instructed that they are +more likely to cheat than be cheated.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page157" id="page157"></a>[pg 157]</span> + +<p><a name="XI3" id="XI3"></a>The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts +of the coast differ in every respect from their +neighbours of the south. They have acquired +a knowledge of the Christian religion, together +with some of the more useful arts of civilized life, +without losing much of their primitive simplicity. +The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors +of the Apostles," after enduring inconceivable +hardships and privations for many years, without +the least prospect of success, at length succeeded +in converting the heathens, collecting them in +villages around them, and at the same time not +only instructing them in things pertaining to their +eternal salvation, but in everything else that could +contribute to their comfort and happiness in the +present life. There are four different stations +of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and +Hebron. At each station there is a church, store, +dwelling-house for the Missionaries, and workshops +for native tradesmen. The natives are +lodged in houses built after the model of their +<i>igloes</i>, being the best adapted to the climate +and circumstances of the country, where scarcely +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page158" id="page158"></a>[pg 158]</span> +any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm +their houses by means of stoves.</p> + +<p>The Brethren have much the same influence +with their flocks as a father among his children. +Whatever provisions the natives collect are placed +at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed +in such a manner as to be of the most +general benefit; by thus taking the management +of this important matter into their own hands, +the consequences of waste and improvidence are +guarded against, and the means of subsistence secured.</p> + +<p>In years of great scarcity the Brethren open +their own stores, having always an ample supply +of provisions on hand, so that through their +fostering care the natives never suffer absolute +want. The Brethren have also goods for +trading, which they dispose of at a moderate +profit; the profits accruing from the business are +thrown into the general funds of the institution. +It is said they carry on trade in every part of the +world where they have missions. Their object is +not to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page159" id="page159"></a>[pg 159]</span> +extend the kingdom of Christ on earth; to enlighten +the nations; and by instructing them in the knowledge +of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" +in this life, and secure their eternal +happiness in the life to come.</p> + +<p>From the paternal anxiety with which these +good people watch over the morals of their flocks, +they discourage as much as possible the visits of +strangers; fearing that intercourse with them +might open their eyes to the allurements of vice. +In spite of all their vigilance, however, they have +sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. +It is an established rule, moreover, with them, +never to allow a stranger to sleep within their +gates; he is hospitably received and treated with +kindness and attention, but on the approach of +evening he is apprised that he must shift for +himself: care is taken, however, to provide him +with lodgings in one of the native huts, where +he can pass the night in tolerable comfort. +Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he +is at liberty to depart when he pleases.</p> + +<p><a name="XI4" id="XI4"></a>The European inhabitants of Labrador are for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page160" id="page160"></a>[pg 160]</span> +the most part British sailors, who, preferring the +freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the society +of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime +discipline and the endearments of the civilized +fair, take up their abode for life in this land of desolation.</p> + +<p>In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor +settles down into the regular grave father of a +family; and by sobriety and good conduct, may +ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old +age. Jack's characteristic thoughtlessness, however, +sometimes adheres to him even when moored +on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is truly miserable.</p> + +<p>They pass the summer in situations favourable +for catching salmon, which they barter on the +spot with the stationary traders for such commodities +as they are in want of. When the +salmon fishing is at an end, they proceed to the +coast for the purpose of fishing cod for their own +consumption, and return late in autumn to the +interior, where they pass the winter trapping fur animals.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page161" id="page161"></a>[pg 161]</span> + +<p>The planters, as they are designated, live in +houses which they call "tilts," varying in shape +and size according to the taste or circumstances +of the owner. These buildings are generally +formed of stakes driven into the ground, chinked +with moss, and covered with bark; they are always +warmed with stoves, otherwise the <i>igloe</i> would afford more comfort.</p> + +<p><a name="XI5" id="XI5"></a>The half-breeds live in much the same way as +their European progenitors; they are generally +sober and industrious; and although unacquainted +with any particular form of religious worship, they +evince, in their general deportment, a greater +regard to the precepts of Christianity than many +who call themselves Christians. They are entirely +free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, +and are guilty of few of its vices; should a frail +fair, however, make a <i>faux pas</i>, it is no bar to her +forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards. The +women are much fewer than the men, and on this +account a greater indulgence may be extended to +their faults than otherwise would be.</p> + +<p>I was surprised to find them all able to read +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page162" id="page162"></a>[pg 162]</span> +and write, although without schools or schoolmasters. +The task of teaching devolves upon the +mother; should she (what seldom happens) be +unqualified, a neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious +and ingenious; they are at a loss for +nothing. The men make their own boats, and +the women prepare everything required for +domestic convenience; almost every man is his +own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman +a tailor and shoemaker. They seem to possess all +the virtues of the different races from which they +are sprung—except courage; they are generally +allowed to be more timid than the natives. But +if not courageous, they possess virtues that render +courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence, +and are seldom, therefore, injured by others.</p> + +<p>The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing +here a few years ago, by buying out some of the +petty traders, whose operations extended to the +interior, and consequently interfered with the +hopeful Ungava scheme; independently, however, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page163" id="page163"></a>[pg 163]</span> +of this consideration, expectations were entertained +that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable +branch of the business, from its various +resources in fish, oil, and furs. These expectations +were not realized, owing to the strong +competition the Company met with; while their +interference in the trade subjected them to the +charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which +appears but too well founded, considering the +monopoly they possess of the whole fur trade of +the continent. "Plus le D——e a, plus il +voudrait avoir," is an old adage; nor have we +any reason to believe that any other mercantile +body would be less ambitious of increasing their +gains, than their <i>honours</i> of Fenchurch-street.</p> + +<p>There are several establishments along the +coast, belonging chiefly to merchants from Plymouth +and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon +and cod fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic +also with the planters. This business was at +one time considered very lucrative; of late years, +however, competition has increased from all +quarters, and prices in the European market +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page164" id="page164"></a>[pg 164]</span> +have diminished, so that the profits are now greatly reduced.</p> + +<p><a name="XI6" id="XI6"></a>The climate of the southern section of Labrador +is by no means severe; the thermometer, +even in the coldest months of the year, seldom +falling lower than 30° below zero. Along the +shores of Esquimaux Bay, a few spots have been +found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes and +other culinary vegetables have been raised in +abundance. Grain, especially oats and barley, +would doubtless also thrive; it so happens, however, +that the inhabitants are under the necessity +of devoting their attention to other pursuits during +the season of husbandry; so that the few that +attempt "gardening," derive small benefit from +it. They sow their seed before starting for the +coast, and leave nature to do the rest.</p> + +<p><a name="XI7" id="XI7"></a>I shall close my description of Labrador by +narrating a rather tragical event that occurred a +few years ago. An old fisherman, formerly a +sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, +lived together in the greatest amity and concord. +The son, after the death of his mother, attended +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page165" id="page165"></a>[pg 165]</span> +to domestic affairs, and also assisted his father at +out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, +however, it was considered expedient to hire a +female, so that they might give their undivided +attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained +long with them, when her charms began +to make an impression on Jack's still sensitive +heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid +their addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred.</p> + +<p>The demon of jealousy now took possession of +the father's breast; and his conduct became so +violent and cruel, that his son determined on +parting company with him and carrying off the +girl. Seizing the only boat that belonged to his +father, he slipped away under cover of night with +his companion, and put ashore on the first island +they found. A violent storm arose in the course +of the night, and either dashed the boat to pieces +on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus +the unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. +This event happened late in autumn. The winter +passed without any word being heard of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page166" id="page166"></a>[pg 166]</span> +lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were +found clasped in each other's arms, and the young +man's gun close by with fifteen notches cut in the +stock, supposed to mark the number of days they +suffered ere relieved by death.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page167" id="page167"></a>[pg 167]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XII" id="XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XII1">VOYAGE TO ENGLAND</a>—<a href="#XII2">ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH</a>—<a href="#XII3">REFLECTIONS</a>—<a href="#XII4">ARRIVE +AT THE PLACE OF MY NATIVITY</a>—<a href="#XII5">CHANGES</a>—<a href="#XII6">DEPOPULATION</a>—<a href="#XII7">LONDON</a>—<a href="#XII8">THE +THAMES</a>—<a href="#XII9">LIVERPOOL</a>—<a href="#XII10">EMBARK +FOR NEW YORK</a>—<a href="#XII11">ARRIVAL</a>—<a href="#XII12">THE AMERICANS</a>—<a href="#XII13">ENGLISH +AND AMERICAN TOURISTS</a>—<a href="#XII14">ENGLAND AND AMERICA</a>—<a href="#XII15">NEW YORK.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XII1" id="XII1"></a>1842.—I embarked for England on the 18th of +August, on board a small schooner of sixty tons, +deeply laden with fish and oil. It is scarcely +necessary to observe, that the accommodations the +craft afforded were of the meanest kind; but the +inconveniences weighed lightly in the scales, when +compared with the anticipated delight of visiting +one's native land. We had a very fine passage; +a steady fair breeze carried us across the broad +Atlantic in a fortnight. <a name="XII2" id="XII2"></a>The green hills of +Cornwall came in view on the 1st of September, +and I had the satisfaction of treading the soil +of England early on the 3d.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page168" id="page168"></a>[pg 168]</span> + +<p><a name="XII3" id="XII3"></a>I remained a few days at Plymouth, to +feast my eyes on scenery such as I had long +been a stranger to;—scenery, I may say, unrivalled +by any I had ever beheld at home or +abroad. What spot in the world, in fact, can +present such varied charms, as the summit +of Mount Edgecumb? where the most refined +taste, aided by the amplest means, has been +employed for a thousand years in beautifying +the glorious landscape. To me, just arrived from +<i>Ungava</i>, the beauties of the scene were undoubtedly +heightened by the contrast; and one +short visit to Mount Edgecumb effaced from my +mind the dreary prospect of bleak rocks, snow +banks, and icebergs, with which it had been so +long and so sadly familiar, and inspired it with +a rapture and delight to which it had long been a +stranger. Yet this terrestrial paradise, I am +informed, belongs to a noble lord, who is a +miserable invalid. Alas, for poor humanity! +neither wealth nor grandeur preserve their possessors +from the ills that flesh is heir to: and +this nobleman may, perhaps, envy the lot of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page169" id="page169"></a>[pg 169]</span> +humblest individual that visits his enchanting domain.</p> + +<p>Bidding adieu to Plymouth, and its delightful +environs, I set out for London on the 11th of +September. The desire of home, however, now +urged me forward; so that even the wonders of +this wonderful city could not detain me. <a name="XII4" id="XII4"></a>Passing +over the uninteresting incidents of steamboat +and railroad travelling, I arrived on the 20th +of September at the spot from which I had +started twenty-three years before. The meeting +of a mother with an only son, after so long an +absence, need not be described, nor the feelings +the well-known scenes of youthful sports and +youthful joys gave rise to. <a name="XII5" id="XII5"></a>These scenes were +still the same, as far as the hand of Nature was +concerned:—there stood the lofty Benmore, casting +his sombre shades over the glassy surface of +Lochba, as in the days of yore; there were also +the same heath-covered hills and wooded dells, +well stocked with sheep and cattle; but the +human inhabitants of the woods and dells—where +were they?—far distant from their much-loved +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page170" id="page170"></a>[pg 170]</span> +native land in the wilds of America, or +toiling for a miserable existence in the crowded +cities of the Lowlands,—a sad change! <a name="XII6" id="XII6"></a>The +bleating of sheep, and lowing of cattle, for the +glad voices of a numerous population, happy and +contented with their lot, loyal to their sovereign, +and devotedly attached to their chiefs! But +loyalty and attachment are but fancies, which, +in these utilitarian and trading days, are flat and +unprofitable; yet the aristocratical manufacturers +of beef and mutton may live to feel the truth of +the lines of Goldsmith:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>"But a bold peasantry, their country's pride,</p> +<p>When once destroyed, can never be supplied."</p> + </div> </div> + +<p><a name="XII7" id="XII7"></a>I remained about six weeks in my native country, +and set out for London, where I arrived +early in November,—"the beginning of the gay +season;" but it appeared to me the reverse. The +city was shrouded in a cloud of condensed smoke +and fog, that shut out the light of heaven. +During three whole days the obscurity was so +great that the steamboats were prevented from +plying on the Thames, and the gas-lights were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page171" id="page171"></a>[pg 171]</span> +seen glimmering through the windows at noon-day. +How applicable is the description of the +Roman historian to the Rome of our day:—"Caput +orbis terrarum, urbis magnificentiam +augebant fora, templa, porticas, aquæductus, +theatra, horti denique, et ejus generis alia, ad quæ +vel lecta animus stupet." My time was too +limited, however, and the weather too unfavourable, +to admit of my seeing all the "lions;" +but who would think of leaving London without +visiting that wonderful work—the Tunnel,—that +lasting monument of the genius of a Brunell, and +of the wealth and enterprise of British merchants!</p> + +<p><a name="XII8" id="XII8"></a>A Cockney may well boast of his great city, +its wealth, its vast population, and its magnificent +buildings; but with regard to the Thames, of +which he is equally proud,—he that has seen the +St. Lawrence, the Hudson, the McKenzie, and +many others, compared to which the Thames is +but a rivulet, may be excused if he cannot view +its not very limpid waters with the same extravagant +admiration as the Londoner, who calls +the Serpentine a river, and dignifies a pond of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page172" id="page172"></a>[pg 172]</span> +a few roods in extent with the name of a lake. +Yet there is one feature about the Thames, of +which he can scarcely be too proud, and which is +unparalleled perhaps in the world,—the often-noticed +"forest of masts," extending farther than +the eye can reach, and suggesting,—not the +silence and solitude of the forests with which I +have been familiar,—but the countless population, +the wealth, and the grandeur of Britain; and the +might and the majesty of civilized and industrious man.</p> + +<p><a name="XII9" id="XII9"></a>I took leave of London on the 12th of September, +and set out for Liverpool by railroad, and +reached it in six hours. I had sufficient time to +visit its docks, crowded by the ships of every +nation; its warehouses containing the produce of +every clime; and, though last, not least in my +estimation, the splendid monument erected to the +memory of Nelson. No monument of stone or +brass is necessary to perpetuate our hero's fame; +he lives in the heart of every true Briton, and +will ever live, till British oak and British prowess +shall cease to "rule the waves."</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page173" id="page173"></a>[pg 173]</span> + +<p><a name="XII10" id="XII10"></a>I embarked on the 15th of December on board +a sailing-packet bound for New York. These +vessels are so punctual to the hour of sailing +advertised, that, if the wind proves contrary, and +blows fresh, they are towed out to sea by steamboats. +This proved to be our case, and we kept +tacking about in the "chops" of the Channel for +six days, when a fair wind sprung up that soon +carried us out of sight of England. England! +great and glorious country, adieu! I shall probably +never see thee more; but in quitting thy +white-cliffed shores, I quit not my ardent attachment +and veneration for thee;—and now for <i>thy</i> +eldest daughter beyond the ocean!</p> + +<p>To me, who had spent so much of my lifetime +in solitude, the tedium of the voyage so much +complained of was gaiety itself; with three fellow-passengers +besides the captain, the time passed +very agreeably. On board these floating palaces +a passenger, in fact, finds everything that can +contribute to his comfort; the best of accommodation, +the best of fare, and the best of attendance; +so that there is nothing wanting but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page174" id="page174"></a>[pg 174]</span> +<i>stability</i>, to make him fancy himself in a first-class hotel on shore.</p> + +<p><a name="XII11" id="XII11"></a>The weather proved extremely favourable +throughout the passage; not an incident occurred +worthy of notice; and on the 17th of January, +1843, I landed safely at New York, and thus +found myself for the first time in a foreign land; +and, since fate has so decreed, among a foreign +people. <a name="XII12" id="XII12"></a>Yes! they are foreigners, if being called +by another name, and living under a different +form of government can make them so; yet in +language, in laws, in religion, and in blood, we +are the same. Their ancestors brought abroad +with them the same sentiments of regard and +attachment to their native land as we feel; they +rejoiced in the prosperity of Britain; felt proud +of her victories, and grieved at her misfortunes. +Alas, how different the feelings of the present +race! Britain may, in fact, reckon the Americans +of the present day her most inveterate foes; those +who are of our own kindred, and whom therefore +we might expect to stand by us in our hour of +need, regard us with more envy and hatred than +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page175" id="page175"></a>[pg 175]</span> +the "hereditary foes" with whom we have been +for centuries engaged in mortal strife.</p> + +<p>In resisting the arbitrary acts of a misguided +government, the American people only proved +themselves possessed of the same noble spirit +that procured for their English progenitors the +confirmation of Magna Charta, and that hurled a +tyrant from his throne. The heroes of the +American revolution nobly fought and conquered; +they entered the arena with fearful odds against +them; they continued the struggle under every +disadvantage, save the sacredness of their cause; +and finally won the prize for which they contended. +Of that prize the Americans of the +present day have undisputed possession; and +nothing can be more certain than that the Britons +of the present day have no wish to deprive them +of it—even if they could. What cause, then, +can there be for still cherishing those feelings +of animosity which the unhappy disruption gave +rise to? If our fathers quarrelled, cannot we be +friends? But are not the British themselves to +blame, in some measure, for the continuance of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page176" id="page176"></a>[pg 176]</span> +these irritated feelings? The mercenary pens of +prejudiced, narrow-minded individuals contribute +daily to add fuel to the flame. Our "Diaries," +and our "Notes," replete with offensive remarks, +are, from the cheapness of publication, disseminated +through the length and breadth of the +Union, and are in everybody's hands; and those +foolish remarks are supposed to be the sentiments +of the British nation; when they are in fact only +the sentiments of individuals whose opinions are +little valued at home, and ought to be less valued abroad.</p> + +<p>Circumstances taken into consideration, I think +it very unfair to draw comparisons between the +social condition of young America, just become +a distinct nation, and of old England, whose +empire has lasted a thousand years. The American +people are still too much occupied with +the necessaries of life to devote much of their +time to its elegancies; they are still engaged in +the pursuits that ultimately ensure wealth and +real independence. Those results attained, what +is there to prevent the American gentleman from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page177" id="page177"></a>[pg 177]</span> +becoming as polished and accomplished as his +cousin in Britain? Can it be supposed, with the +least shadow of reason, that the short period +that has elapsed since the Revolution can have +been sufficient to produce that alteration in the +character and manners of the Americans, which +our travellers love to exercise their wit upon? +It is impossible. The Americans "guessed," and +"calculated," and "speculated," while they were +British subjects, just as they do now; nor have +they learned to chew, and spit, and smoke tobacco +since the 4th of July, 1782.</p> + +<p>As to the peculiar phrases the Americans use +in conversation, I am convinced that their forefathers +brought the greater part of them from +Britain, as many of those phrases are to be found +in the works of old English authors still extant. +The English language as spoken in America, +is elegance itself, compared to the provincial +dialects of Britain, or even to the vile slang one +hears in the streets of London. This is a fact +that every unprejudiced person who has travelled in America must admit.</p> + +<p><a name="XII13" id="XII13"></a>It appears Americans find leisure, of late years, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page178" id="page178"></a>[pg 178]</span> +to travel and take notes, as well as their transatlantic +brethren; and, in return for the polite +attentions of our travellers, describe England and +Englishmen in the bitter language of recrimination +and retort; and thus the enmity between +the mother and daughter is kept alive and perpetuated. +A publication of this kind fell lately +into my hands, entitled, "The Glory and Shame +of England." The writer, said to be a <i>Christian +minister</i>, with the malignity of baser minds, sinks +and keeps in the background her "glories," and +brings into relief and dwells upon her shameful +parts; representing in the most sombre colours +the misery of the "squalid" population of our +cities. Would to God there were not so much +truth in the picture! His reverence, however, +seems to have lost sight of the clergyman; and +in gratifying his resentment against England, +and in his zeal to kindle the same unchristian +feeling in the breasts of his countrymen, has not +hesitated to sacrifice the truth;—and he a +clergyman, whose office it is to "proclaim peace +on earth, and good-will to men!"</p> + +<p>That there is much misery and wretchedness +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page179" id="page179"></a>[pg 179]</span> +in England, none can deny; but will not the +well-informed philanthropist consider it rather as +our misfortune than our reproach?—consisting +mainly, as that mass of wretchedness does, of +those ills which neither "kings nor laws can +cause or cure." What plan would this philanthropic +divine recommend to remove those evils, +which, while he affects to deplore, he yet glories +over? Strip the nobility and land-owners of their +possessions—convert our monarchy into a republic—and +the church into a "meetin ouse?"</p> + +<p>These <i>reforms</i> effected, would the people of +England be permanently benefited by them? +Supposing the whole arable soil of England were +divided in equal portions among its crowded +inhabitants, (passing by the injustice of robbing +the present proprietors of their lawful possessions—many +of them acquired by the same hard +labour or skill by which an artisan gains his +weekly wages,) would the equality of property +long continue? Would not the sloth, improvidence, +and imprudence, that ever distinguish a +great proportion of mankind; and the industry, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page180" id="page180"></a>[pg 180]</span> +foresight, and ambition that characterise others, +soon bring many of the equal lots into one, thus +forming a great estate, the property of an individual,—when +matters would just be at the point +where his reverence found them? And then, +of course, would follow another "equitable adjustment," +to relieve the wants of the poor, whose +progenitors had squandered their patrimony. Or, +admitting that the lots remained in possession +of the families to whom they were originally +granted, would the produce be equal to the +maintenance of their numerous descendants, when +the property became divided and subdivided into +fifty or a hundred shares?</p> + +<p>The present proprietors of the soil of England +have, undoubtedly, large incomes; but what becomes +of those incomes? Do they not flow back +into the hands of the merchants, tradesmen, +servants, &c.?—the greater proportion, at least; +for the sums expended by our tourists on the +continent form so inconsiderable a portion of +those incomes, as not to be worth mentioning. +The same may be said of the <i>alleged</i> wealth of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page181" id="page181"></a>[pg 181]</span> +the clergy; for (admitting the allegation) it all +flows back into the channels whence it issued; +and, although neither belonging to the Church +of England, nor approving of her forms of government, +I do not think that her downfall would +improve the <i>temporal</i> condition of the people. +If we wish to remain a Christian nation, we +cannot dispense with the services of the clergy; +and in order that those services may be efficient, +they must be maintained in independence and respectability.</p> + +<p>As to a republican form of government, that +experiment has been already tried in England, +and failed; it may be tried again with no better +success. The circumstances in which the American +people found themselves after the Revolution, +rendered the adoption of republican +institutions both safe and beneficial. They had +learned by experience that the remote position of +their country secured their independence from +the ambitious projects of any power in Europe; +while they had nothing to fear from any power +in America. Thus situated, any form of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page182" id="page182"></a>[pg 182]</span> +government, consistent with the due maintenance of +good order at home, answered their purpose. The +nascent republic might, at the period in question, +have adopted as its motto, "Liberty and Equality," +with the utmost propriety; for all enjoyed equal +liberty, and nearly equal fortunes. Experience, +however, shows that liberty and equality cannot +long exist under any form of government; industry +procures wealth, wealth induces ambition, and +ambition sighs after distinction and power.</p> + +<p><a name="XII14" id="XII14"></a>While America feels secure from the aggression +of her neighbours, Great Britain is surrounded by +powerful states, some of whom afford her daily +proofs of their envy of her greatness and their +hatred of her power; and only want the ability, +not the will, to annihilate both. Those states are, +for the most part, ruled by absolute or despotic +governments, who can call fleets and armies into +action without losing a moment in debating the +justice or injustice, policy or impolicy, of their +movements. With such neighbours as these, +would the Messenger of Peace recommend the +"Britishers" to adopt a form of government +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page183" id="page183"></a>[pg 183]</span> +which would necessitate them to debate and consult +while their enemies were acting; and to remit +to the people to discuss the question of peace or +war, when they should be enlisting and drilling them?</p> + +<p>Columbia, happy land! the broad Atlantic intervenes +between thee and the envy or hatred of +Europe; thy wide domain, presenting millions of +acres of untenanted land, stands open to the +industry and enterprise of thy citizens. How +thankful, then, ought they to be for the blessings +they enjoy, compared with the condition of +their brethren "beyond the water," confined as +they are to the narrow limits of their sea-girt isle, +whose soil is no longer sufficient for the support of +its over-crowded inhabitants, and surrounded by +hostile nations, who have long since pronounced +the sentence, "<i>Delenda est Britannia!</i>"</p> + +<p><a name="XII15" id="XII15"></a>"Boz" has already told his countrymen all that +is worth telling about New York, and something +more. What the "Dickens" brought him to the +"Five Points?" Did he never visit Wapping with +the same views, whatever they might be? If he +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page184" id="page184"></a>[pg 184]</span> +did, did he observe nothing in that sink of filth +and wickedness equal to the scenes that shocked +him so much in the outskirts of New York? One +just arrived from England finds little in this city +to excite wonder or admiration, unless it be the +extraordinary width of some of the streets. Were +those streets kept clean, and the liberty of the +pigs a little restrained, the citizens might well +boast of their superiority to most of the streets of +our British cities; and as their taste improves, +everything unsightly will be removed.</p> + +<p>Nature has done much for New York: she possesses +one of the finest harbours in the world; her +climate is pleasant and salubrious; and one of the +noblest rivers of America gives her the command +of the commercial resources of a country which +equals in extent nearly all Europe. New York +will undoubtedly become one of the first cities in +the world; in commerce, in wealth, in population, +she has advanced at a prodigious rate within the +last fifty years, and her progress is not likely to be arrested.</p> + +<p>The aqueduct that supplies the town with water, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page185" id="page185"></a>[pg 185]</span> +pure, wholesome, and abundant, is well worth the +notice of a stranger. This stupendous work was +executed at a cost of nine millions of dollars, and +conveys the water from a distance of forty miles!—the +genius of the engineer and the power of money +overcoming every obstacle. The two great reservoirs, +near the city, present splendid specimens of +that kind of architecture. Happening in company +to express my opinion of this work, as reflecting +the highest credit on the enterprise of the citizens, +a gentleman present, evidently an American, in +reply to the compliment, observed, "It is very +much to their advantage, no doubt, and it will also +be much to their credit, if they pay the debt +they incurred in constructing it." The fact is, +that this and many other public works in the +United States, have been executed by British capital. +Would to heaven that our <i>sympathising</i> friends, +who are so jealous in regard to the honour +of America, where a few thousand acres of worthless +land are concerned, were equally jealous in +regard to it when, under the newly-invented name +of <i>repudiation</i>, the honour of their country is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page186" id="page186"></a>[pg 186]</span> +tarnished by a vast system of unblushing robbery! +Would to heaven that their <i>sympathies</i> were extended +to the thousands who are involved in +misery and ruin by this audacious system of national perfidy!</p> + +<p>If the art or ingenuity of the good citizens of +New York has not produced very many objects +worthy of admiration, the faces of their lovely +fair make ample amends for it. Among the +crowds of charmers who throng the fashionable +promenade of Broadway, scarcely an ordinary face +is to be seen. I, in fact, saw more pretty faces +there in one hour than in all my tour in Britain.</p> + +<p>I landed in New York without any prejudice +against the Americans, and I now take leave of +their commercial capital with feelings of esteem +and regret. In the society I frequented I neither +saw nor heard anything unworthy of, or unbecoming +the descendants of Britons. Some little +peculiarities, the natural result of circumstances, +I certainly noticed; some differences also in their +social life; but I shall leave it to those who are +disposed to find fault to criticise these matters.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page187" id="page187"></a>[pg 187]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XIII1">PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER</a>—<a href="#XIII2">THE +PASSENGERS</a>—<a href="#XIII3">ARRIVAL AT ALBANY</a>—<a href="#XIII4">JOURNEY TO MONTREAL.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XIII1" id="XIII1"></a>The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted +by ice, I determined on proceeding to +Albany by steamboat, in preference to the railroad, +with the view of seeing the far-famed +scenery of the country through which the river +flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of +February. We had not proceeded far, however, +when we found the face of the country covered +with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated +from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost.</p> + +<p><a name="XIII2" id="XIII2"></a>Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold +became so severe as we ascended, that the deck +was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the stove +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page188" id="page188"></a>[pg 188]</span> +was considered the best. The passengers being +now all crowded below, the group presented a +complete epitome of American society: here were +members of the legislature proceeding to the +capital on parliamentary duty; here also were +congregated in the same cabin, merchants, mechanics, +and farmers, messing at the same board, +and at first mixed up promiscuously together. +They did not, however, long continue so; the +more respectable part, separating from the crowd, +occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied +the other. Thus the homogeneous ingredients +of the mass having united, no further mixture +took place during the passage.</p> + +<p>It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally +be observed stepping beyond the ideal boundary, +and sitting down among the plebeians, +probably some of his constituents,—would call for +a pipe, and, stretching out his legs, commence to +puff, spit, and debate, like one of themselves; and +having by these means convinced them that he +still considered them as his <i>equals</i>, would retire again <i>ad suos</i>.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page189" id="page189"></a>[pg 189]</span> + +<p>The Americans are accused by Europeans of +being cold and reserved towards strangers; for +my part, I found them sociable and communicative +in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked +on board the steamboat I found myself +quite at home. I was much pleased to observe +the rational manner in which the passengers +amused themselves. Little groups were formed, +where religion, politics and business matters were +discussed with excellent sense and judgment. +These seemed to be the common topics of discourse +in both ends of the cabin. I frequented +both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in +either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush +to the table; such a scene as the latter is only to be seen in America.</p> + +<p>The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:—</p> + +<p>"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!"</p> + +<p>Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, +elbowing, until they take their seats. I was, however, +particularly struck with the attention shown +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page190" id="page190"></a>[pg 190]</span> +to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and +the total absence of impure or profane expressions +in conversation. How unlike the scenes one +witnesses on board our steamboats in Britain, +where the meaner sort of passengers seem to +travel on purpose to indulge in drinking!</p> + +<p><a name="XIII3" id="XIII3"></a>I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress +having been much retarded by the quantity +of ice drifting in the river. Finding that the mail +was to start for Canada in the course of the +night, I decided on going with it, without seeing +the capital of New York. Owing to the mildness +of the season up to the present time, the +roads were in the worst possible condition, and +the motion of the carriage passing rapidly over +the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently +frozen solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful.</p> + +<p><a name="XIII4" id="XIII4"></a>We continued, however, to jolt on night and +day, without rest, save during the short time necessary +for changing or baiting cattle. The roads +became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A +considerable quantity of snow had fallen lately, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page191" id="page191"></a>[pg 191]</span> +which rendered travelling in a wheeled carriage +not only disagreeable in the extreme, but also +dangerous. We broke down several times, but +without serious inconvenience. On one of these +occasions we picked ourselves up opposite a farm +house, in which we took shelter while the driver +was putting matters to rights. It being yet early, +the inmates were still in bed; we nevertheless +found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth, and +seated ourselves around it.</p> + +<p>All of a sudden the door of a small apartment +flew open, and a large black cat sprang in amongst us.</p> + +<p>"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said +one of the passengers, addressing himself to me. +"What do you think of the ingenuity of our +Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we +should have had a page or two more to his notes; +and I am sure it would have proved at least as +interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's +conversation with his cattle."</p> + +<p>"That's a fact," said I.</p> + +<p>After being jolted and pitched about until every +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page192" id="page192"></a>[pg 192]</span> +bone in my body ached again, I reached St. John's +on the 12th; and the snow being now sufficiently +deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder +of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page193" id="page193"></a>[pg 193]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XIV1">EMBARK FOR THE NORTH</a>—<a href="#XIV2">PASSENGERS ARRIVE AT FORT +WILLIAM</a>—<a href="#XIV3">DESPATCH FROM GOVERNOR</a>—<a href="#XIV4">APPOINTED TO +MACKENZIE'S RIVER DISTRICT</a>—<a href="#XIV5">PORTAGE LA LOCHE</a>—<a href="#XIV6">ADVENTURE +ON GREAT SLAVE LAKE</a>—<a href="#XIV7">ARRIVE AT FORT +SIMPSON</a>—<a href="#XIV8">PRODUCTIONS OF THE POST.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XIV1" id="XIV1"></a>I spent the remainder of the winter enjoying +the good things of this life, and on the 28th of +April received orders to proceed to Lachine, preparatory +to embarking for the north. I embarked +on the 29th, but the crews were so intoxicated +that we were compelled to land on an island +near by, to allow them to recover from the effects of their carousals.</p> + +<p>I was joined here by Captain Stalk of the 71st, +and Lieutenant Lefroy of the Artillery; the +former accompanying us on a jaunt of pleasure, +the latter on a scientific expedition. There were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page194" id="page194"></a>[pg 194]</span> +also four junior clerks in the Company's service. +Our brigade consisted of three large canoes +manned by about fifty Canadians, and Iroquois Indians.</p> + +<p>We were detained in our insular encampment +by stress of weather until the 2d of May, when +we set out. Our crews being now perfectly +sober, plied their paddles with the utmost good-will, +singing and whooping, apparently delighted +with their situation. Ignorance here was bliss; +they little dreamed of the life that awaited them. +I may here premise, that as I have already narrated +the particulars of a similar voyage, I shall +pass on to the different stages of our route without +noticing the uninteresting incidents of our daily progress.</p> + +<p><a name="XIV2" id="XIV2"></a>We arrived at Fort William on the 28th of +May, where we exchanged our large Montreal +canoes for smaller. Here Captain S. remained +to await his passage back to Canada; not much +disposed to try such a jaunt of pleasure again, +I suspect,—and Lieutenant L., taking a canoe for +himself with a view of prosecuting his scientific +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page195" id="page195"></a>[pg 195]</span> +researches more at leisure than our go-a-head +mode of travelling admitted, left us also. We +were detained a day at Fort William, repairing +canoes, arranging crews, &c., and on the 30th, +I took leave of my excellent <i>compagnons de voyage</i> with sincere regret.</p> + +<p>On descending Lac la Pluie River, we landed +at an extensive Sauteux camp, where we found +a Protestant (Methodist) Missionary, with a native +interpreter as his only companion. I learned +with much regret, that this gentleman's exertions +in his vocation had been attended with little or +no success, although he had been two years +engaged in it; while the Romish priests, in the +same space of time, had converted numbers.</p> + +<p>The natives were occupied with the sturgeon +fishing, and had apparently been tolerably successful. +Having procured a supply for the use +of our crews by barter, we set off, and without +experiencing any accident, reached Bas de la +Rivière on the 13th of June, where I found letters +from the Governor, directing me to proceed with +all possible speed to York Factory.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page196" id="page196"></a>[pg 196]</span> + +<p>Having learned on my way coming up, that one +of the gentlemen in McKenzie's River district +had resigned, and would quit the country this +year,—I felt convinced I should be appointed his +successor; that being one of the most wretched +parts of the Indian country, it was quite a matter +of course that I should be sent thither. Knowing +from dear-bought experience, however, that my +constitution could no longer bear the hardships +and privations to which I had been so long +subjected, I wrote the Governor on the subject, +and requested that he would grant me an appointment +where I might enjoy some degree of +comfort—a favour which I humbly conceived my +former services entitled me to—otherwise I +should retire from the service. We had a fine +passage across Lake Winnipeg, and I landed at +Norway House with all my party safe and sound, +on the 18th of June. I remained there till the +21st, and then set out for York Factory, where +I had been about ten days, when an express +arrived from Norway House with the Governor's +final orders to me, and also his reply to my +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page197" id="page197"></a>[pg 197]</span> +last communication, which I here insert at full length.</p> + +<p class="author"><a name="XIV3" id="XIV3"></a>"Red River Settlement,<br /> +"<i>June</i> 22, 1843.</p> + +<p>"<span class="sc">Dear Sir</span>,</p> + +<p>"My eyes are so completely worn out, that +I cannot give you a single private line under my +own hand. I have perused with attention your +private letter of the 14th instant, and should have +been glad had it been in my power to have met +your wishes in regard to an appointment; but +from the few commissioned gentlemen disposable +this season, it was quite impossible to consult +wishes. <a name="XIV4" id="XIV4"></a>You were, therefore, long before receipt of +your letter, appointed to McKenzie's River. That +is now one of the finest fields we have for extension +of trade, and I count much on your activity for +promoting our views in that quarter. But while +directing your attention to the extension of <i>your +district</i>, you must likewise use your best endeavours +to curtail the indents, as they have of late +been on a most alarming scale, comprehending +nearly as many articles as appear in our Columbia +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page198" id="page198"></a>[pg 198]</span> +requisition; if you look on my notes on the last +requisition, you will find that I have been under +the necessity of making some further curtailments. +I am sorry the idea of retiring has entered your +mind, as I was in hopes we could count upon +some efficient services out of you while still young and vigorous.</p> + +<p>"The Company have of late declined making +any purchases of retired interests; it would be +therefore quite unnecessary to make any application +on that head, as they have lost money by all +the recent purchases they have made in that way.</p> + +<p>"I am at the Lower Fort, where Mr. Ross came +in on me very unexpectedly, just as we were +preparing to get on horseback for the upper part +of the settlement, so that I am much pressed for +time, which will account for the brevity of this communication.</p> + +<p>"Pray let me hear from you in Canada by the +last canoes, as I shall not then have taken my departure from Montreal.</p> + +<p>"I remain, &c. &c.</p> + +<p class="author">(Signed) "<span class="sc">George Simpson</span>."</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page199" id="page199"></a>[pg 199]</span> + +<p>Judging, from the instructions contained in the +above communication, that I was appointed to +the charge of the district, I made up my mind to +try how far my health could endure the hardships +of which I already had had more than my share; +and without a moment's delay, set out for Norway +House in a light canoe, where I arrived on the +16th of July. My friend Mr. C—— arrived with +his returns from Athabasca a few days afterwards, +and his arrangements being completed on the +24th, I embarked as a passenger with him.</p> + +<p>We reached the small river Mithai on the 4th +of September, when we found the water so low +as barely to admit of the passage of the light +boats. It happened most fortunately that there +were a number of Chippewayan Indians encamped +on the spot at the time, else we should have been +completely at a nonplus. The crews, good souls! +hired those Indians at their own expense, to +carry the greater part of the property in their +small canoes to the upper part of the river. At +the portage we found a number of half-breeds, +with their horses, from the Saskatchewan, awaiting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page200" id="page200"></a>[pg 200]</span> +our arrival, in the expectation of being employed +to transport the goods. Nor were they disappointed; +sooner than undergo the harassing +toil of carrying the outfit across a portage of +twelve miles, the men hired the half-breeds, +parting with their most valuable articles in payment.</p> + +<p><a name="XIV5" id="XIV5"></a>Several propositions have been made, of late +years, to the Governor, for sparing the men the +inhuman labour of this portage, which they must +either perform, or sacrifice a considerable part of +their paltry wages to avoid it. It was suggested, +for instance, that a sufficient number of horses +should be stationed at a certain locality, with the +requisite conveniences, near the portage, and a +couple of men hired on purpose to take care of +them, whose wages the winterers should pay out +of their own pockets, which they readily assented +to; as the transport, by this arrangement, would +only cost them one-third of what it cost them to +employ the half-breeds. His Excellency, however, +was quite "sick" of the Portage La Loche +subject; he knew as much about it as anybody, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page201" id="page201"></a>[pg 201]</span> +and felt quite assured that it was the easiest part +of the men's duties throughout the voyage! While +canoes were used, the duty at Portage la Loche +was not nearly so severe as at present; a canoe +carried only twenty-five pieces, and was manned +by six men; a boat's crew consists only of seven +men, while the cargo consists of from sixty to seventy pieces.</p> + +<p><a name="XIV6" id="XIV6"></a>The descent of the Clear Water and Athabasca +rivers was effected without any accident, and we +arrived at Athabasca on the 16th of September; +whence I set out again, after a few days' delay, +for Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, where +I was detained by stress of weather until the 29th.</p> + +<p>I left the post late in the evening, and intended +to encamp on an island at a convenient +distance; but the season being far advanced, +I felt anxious to proceed, and inquired of my +pilot whether he thought there would be any +risk in travelling all night? "Not the least," +was the reply; and we rowed on accordingly till +morning; when lo! the only objects to be seen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page202" id="page202"></a>[pg 202]</span> +were sea and sky. In vain we strained the organs +of vision to discover land; there we were, as if in +the midst of the ocean, surrounded on all sides by +the unbroken circle of the horizon. I do not +know that I ever felt more seriously alarmed than +at this moment, thus to find myself exposed on +an unknown sea, as it might well be termed, in +an open boat, and at such an advanced period of +the season, without any means of ascertaining +what course to steer for land. It would appear +our steersman had been napping at the helm in +the course of the night, and thus allowed the boat +to deviate from her course without noticing it; +hence the awkwardness and even the danger of our present situation.</p> + +<p>While considering with myself what was best +to be done, a fine breeze sprang up; I ordered the +sail to be hoisted immediately, determined on +going before it until we made land, no matter +where. Fortunately the wind continued steady +all day, and we at length reached the land a little +after sunset, having run at least forty miles. We +put ashore at the first convenient landing we could +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page203" id="page203"></a>[pg 203]</span> +find, and encamped for the night. Having consulted +a map I had with me, and observing by the +sun the direction in which we had crossed the lake, +(for we had actually crossed it at its greatest +width,) I could make out pretty clearly that we +had turned our backs to our true course! We +had, however, a good supply of provisions, and +a voyageur is never discouraged while he has the +provender before him. Having now learned, to +my cost, what confidence my pilot was entitled to, +I determined on keeping land in view for the future.</p> + +<p><a name="XIV7" id="XIV7"></a>We embarked early next morning, and, after +a tedious and laborious passage of seven days, +arrived at Big Island fishery at the outlet of the +Lake on the 8th of October, where I found a boat +ready to start with a cargo of fish, in which I +embarked; and landing finally at Fort Simpson +on the 16th, my long trip of five months <i>per mare +et terram</i>, was brought to a close; and high time +it should, for the weather was become excessively +cold, and the ice was forming along the beach.</p> + +<p>I was much grieved to find Mr. Lewis confined +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page204" id="page204"></a>[pg 204]</span> +to bed in consequence of a shocking accident he +had lately met with, his right hand being blown +off by the accidental discharge of his fowling-piece.</p> + +<p>Having perused the governor's official letter +to Mr. Lewis, I found the following paragraph +in it relating to myself:—"On retiring from the +district next season, you will be pleased to invest +Mr. McLean with the management, handing to +that gentleman all correspondence, papers, &c., +connected with the public business." This paragraph, +taken in conjunction with the instructions +I had previously received, confirmed both Mr. +L. and myself in the opinion that I was to +succeed him in the charge; and we took our measures accordingly.</p> + +<p><a name="XIV8" id="XIV8"></a>I was very agreeably surprised to find that the +high latitude of this locality (61° north) did +not prevent agricultural operations from being +carried on with success. Although the season +had been rather unfavourable, the farm yielded +four hundred bushels of potatoes, and upwards +of one hundred bushels of barley; the barnyard, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page205" id="page205"></a>[pg 205]</span> +with its stacks of barley and hay, and +the number of horned cattle around it, had +quite the air of a farm standing in the "old +country." It is to be regretted that the gentlemen +here should have paid so little attention to +the cultivation of the soil in former times, as the +produce would, ere now, not only have contributed +to the support of the establishment, but +have afforded assistance to the natives in years of scarcity.</p> + +<p>For these three years past the distress of the +natives in this quarter has been without parallel; +several hundreds having perished of want—in some +instances, even at the gates of the trading post, +whose inmates, far from having it in their power +to relieve others, required relief themselves. +Here, as in most other parts of the wooded country, +rabbits form the principal subsistence of the +natives, and when they fail, starvation is the sure +and inevitable result; but no former period has +been so productive of distress, to so fearful an +extent, as the present. With the produce of the +farm, Mr. L. was enabled to save the lives of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page206" id="page206"></a>[pg 206]</span> +all those who resorted to his own post; but at +Forts Good Hope, Norman, and De Liard, no +assistance could be given; as those posts, like +most others in the Indian country, depend entirely +on the means the country affords in fish, flesh, +and fowl, for their subsistence.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page207" id="page207"></a>[pg 207]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XV" id="XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XV1">STATEMENTS IN THE EDINBURGH CABINET LIBRARY</a>—<a href="#XV2">ALLEGED +KINDNESS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY TO THE INDIANS</a>—<a href="#XV3">AND +GENEROSITY</a>—<a href="#XV4">SUPPORT OF MISSIONARIES</a>—<a href="#XV5">SUPPORT +WITHDRAWN</a>—<a href="#XV6">PREFERENCE OF ROMAN CATHOLICS</a>—<a href="#XV7">THE +NORTH-WEST COMPANY</a>—<a href="#XV8">CONDUCT OF A BRITISH PEER</a>—<a href="#XV9">RIVALRY +OF THE COMPANIES</a>—<a href="#XV10">COALITION</a>—<a href="#XV11">CHARGES AGAINST +THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY REFUTED.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XV1" id="XV1"></a>A volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, in +which the Company's territories are described, +came lately into my hands. <a name="XV2" id="XV2"></a>It is there remarked, +that "the Company's posts serve as hospitals, to +which the Indians resort during sickness, and are +supplied with food and medicine; that when +winter arrives, the diseased and infirm are frequently +left there; <a name="XV3" id="XV3"></a>that the Company have made +the most laudable efforts to instruct and civilize +them, employing, at a great expense, Missionaries and Teachers," &c.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page208" id="page208"></a>[pg 208]</span> + +<p>I am well aware that the author of this valuable +production took it for granted that the information +he had obtained, relative to our treatment of +the Indians, and other matters, was correct, or he +would not have permitted it to go forth to the +world under the authority and sanction of his +name. But without intending any disrespect to +the author, I take leave to state that the above +quotations have not the slightest foundation in +fact. Our posts serve as hospitals! I have now +passed twenty-four years of my life-time in the +country; I have served in every quarter of it; +and I own that I have never yet known a single +instance of an Indian being retained at any inland +post for medical treatment. The knowledge the +natives possess of the medicinal virtues of roots +and herbs, is generally equal to the cure of all +their ailments; and we are, in fact, more frequently +indebted to them, than they to us, for +medical advice. I may mention, however, by way +of exception to the general rule, that the dépôts +along the coast are well supplied with medicines, +and that there are medical men there who administer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page209" id="page209"></a>[pg 209]</span> +them to the natives when they apply for them.</p> + +<p>In the interior we are allowed to doctor ourselves +as we best can. What with the salubrity +of the climate, and our abstemious fare, we are +enabled, with the aid of a little Turlington balsam, +and a dose of salts, perhaps, to overcome all our +ailments. Most of us also use the lancet, and can +even "spread a plaster, or give a glister," when +necessary; but the Indians seldom trouble us.</p> + +<p>As to the instruction the natives receive from +us, I am at a loss to know what it is, where imparted, +and by whom given. "A tale I could, +unfold!" But let it pass: certain it is, that +neither our example nor our precept has had +the effect of improving the morals or principles +of the natives;—they are neither more enlightened, +nor more civilized, by our endeavours, than +if we had never appeared among them. The +native interpreters even grow old in our service as +ignorant of Christianity as the rudest savages who +have never seen the face of a white man.</p> + +<p><a name="XV4" id="XV4"></a>The Church Missionary Society has had two +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page210" id="page210"></a>[pg 210]</span> +Missionaries stationed at Red River settlement +for some years past, one of whom is designated +the Company's Chaplain, and is allowed 100<i>l.</i> per +annum; the Roman Catholic bishop, too, receives +his 100<i>l.</i>, and doubtless understands, without any +inspiration, the Company's policy in granting the +annuity. The gentleman who conducts the +academy has also 100<i>l.</i> a-year; thus we have 300<i>l.</i>, +forming the sum total of the "great expenses" +the Company are at. It is quite true there are +thirteen schools at Red River; there are also +eighteen windmills, and the Company furnishes +just as much wind for the mills as funds for the +support of the schools or teachers. Other teachers +than those above specified I have neither seen nor heard of.</p> + +<p>Some years ago five Missionaries were sent out +to the Hudson's Bay territory by the Wesleyan +Missionary Society. After having laboured for +some time in the territory, by a decision of the +Council the rank of commissioned gentleman, +together with the usual allowances attached to +that rank, was conferred on them.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page211" id="page211"></a>[pg 211]</span> + +<p><a name="XV5" id="XV5"></a>The Missionaries had every reason to be grateful +for these acts of kindness, and they both felt +and expressed their gratitude. Their object, +however, in coming to the country was to serve +God, not the Hudson's Bay Company; and they +proceeded to discharge their duty in the manner +their conscience approved, instructing and enlightening +the natives with the zeal and perseverance +for which their sect is so eminently distinguished. +The good fruits were soon apparent; in some +parts of the country successful attempts were +made to collect the natives: they were taught +to cultivate the soil, to husband their produce, +so as to render them less dependent on fortuitous +circumstances for a living; they were taught to +read and write, and to worship God "in spirit +and in truth," and numbers "were daily added +to the Church;" when, lo! it was discovered that +the time devoted to religious exercises, and other +duties arising out of the altered circumstances +of the converts, was so much time lost to the fur-hunt; +and from the moment this discovery was +made, no further encouragement was given to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page212" id="page212"></a>[pg 212]</span> +innovators. Their labours were strictly confined +to the stations they originally occupied, and every +obstacle was thrown in the way of extending their +missions. Even after some of them had travelled +into the remotest parts, and opened up an amicable +intercourse with the natives, they were told that +collecting the Indians into villages was a measure +not to be thought of, as the habitual indolence +of the natives precluded the idea of their being +induced to cultivate the soil; that even if they +were so inclined, the country presented few localities fit for the purpose, &c.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the high authority whence +these allegations emanated, I think I can show +the reader that they are in a great measure without foundation.</p> + +<p>Here (in lat. 61° north)<a id="footnotetag2" name="footnotetag2"></a><a href="#footnote2"><sup>2</sup></a> we raise crops of +barley and potatoes—the former in abundance +every year,—the latter, however, are sometimes +cut off by the frosts; but this is no more than +happens in Canada, and many parts of the United +States. The fact is, that there are many favourable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page213" id="page213"></a>[pg 213]</span> +situations for agriculture to be found in every +district of the Company's territories, except perhaps +one or two on the shores of Hudson's Bay. +The banks of the Athabasca, Peace, Slave, and +McKenzie rivers present many localities fit for +farming operations; and in the more southern +districts they are, of course, far more frequent.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote2" name="footnote2"></a><b>Footnote 2: </b><a href="#footnotetag2">(return) </a><p>On the banks of the McKenzie River.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Had the Protestant ministers been allowed +a free scope, and the encouragement they at first +received been continued, they would ere now have +had Missions established in many districts; and +there can hardly be a doubt that they would have +succeeded here, as elsewhere, in overcoming the +natural sloth of the natives. Their good intentions, +however, have been frustrated, and they +have now the additional mortification of finding +themselves supplanted by Romish priests, who, +no later than last year, were allowed a free passage +in the Company's craft, even to a district where +a Protestant Missionary had been settled for +several years previously, and had made considerable +progress in converting the natives. Not +only was he allowed a passage to the district, but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page214" id="page214"></a>[pg 214]</span> +he was lodged and entertained in the Company's establishment.</p> + +<p><a name="XV6" id="XV6"></a>The consequences of this strange procedure are +obvious: the poor ignorant natives, hearing such +conflicting doctrines, are at a loss what to think +or what to believe; and, naturally enough, conclude +that both are alike impostors, and therefore +in many cases decline their instructions. It must +be acknowledged, however, that the Romish priest +is often more successful than the Protestant missionary, +and that for obvious reasons. With +the former, the Indian needs only profess a desire +to become a Christian, and he is forthwith baptized; +whereas with the latter, a probationary +course—a trial of the proselyte's sincerity—is +deemed indispensable. The peculiar dress, moreover, +of the Romish ministers, and their imposing +ritual, make a great impression on the senses of a barbarous people.</p> + +<p>"<i>He</i> indeed," say the Indians, when speaking +of the priest, "he indeed looks like a great 'man +of medicine;' but these others are just like our +traders; we can see no difference."</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page215" id="page215"></a>[pg 215]</span> + +<p>The fact, too, need not be disguised, that we +ourselves find the priests far more accommodating +than these meddling parsons. The priests, for +instance, allow us to amuse ourselves in any manner +we think fit, week-day or Sunday; and far from +finding fault, ten to one if they don't join in the +sport; the Protestant minister, on the contrary, +never allows a violation of the sacred day to pass +unnoticed, nor fails to warn the delinquent of the +consequences. The priest connives at the Indian's +hunting on Sunday—the minister strictly forbids +it: the priests are single—the ministers are generally +married, and their maintenance of course +involves a far heavier expense. Considering these +things, no reasonable person can surely find fault +with us for preferring those who allow us to put +what construction we please on the moral law, +and at the same time oppose no obstacles to the +advancement of our temporal interests.</p> + +<p>And here I cannot but express my regret that +our Protestant churches should have so long +neglected the cultivation of a field that promised +such rich harvests as the interior of America. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page216" id="page216"></a>[pg 216]</span> +The superstitions of the aborigines scattered +through the Hudson's Bay Company's territories +are so gross, and so inconsistent with unsophisticated +common sense; and their prejudices in +favour of them have been so much shaken by +their intercourse with the gentlemen of the trading +posts and the other Europeans, whom they +are accustomed to look up to as beings of a +superior race, that there could be but little difficulty +in removing what <i>remains</i> of these prejudices; +and thus one of the greatest obstacles to +the success of a Missionary in other parts of the +heathen world, can scarcely be said to exist among them.</p> + +<p>The Church of England, it is true, has done a +little, but she might have done more—much more. +Had the Missionaries at Red River exerted themselves, +from the time of their first arrival in the +country, in educating <i>natives</i> as Missionaries, and +sent them forth to preach the Word, the pure +doctrines of Christianity would, ere now, have +been widely disseminated through the land. But +nothing of this kind has been attempted: nor +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page217" id="page217"></a>[pg 217]</span> +could it be attempted—now that I think of it—the +laying on of "the hands of a Bishop" being indispensable.</p> + +<p>As to the diseased and infirm being frequently +left at our posts in winter, all I can say is, that +I have never seen any such at any of the posts +I wintered at, or at any of the posts I visited; nor +is it likely that, when we ourselves depend on the +natives for a considerable part of our subsistence, +we can do much to support them. We support +neither old nor young, diseased nor infirm—that is the truth.</p> + +<p><a name="XV7" id="XV7"></a>In the work above quoted I find the following +paragraph relating to the North-West Company.</p> + +<p>"Although the rivalry of the North-West +Company had the effect of inspiriting and extending +the trade; it was carried by them in many +respects beyond the legitimate limits, not scrupling +at open violence and bloodshed, in which Europeans +and natives were alike sufferers."</p> + +<p>The controversy between those rival companies +has long since been forgotten; but the subject +being again obtruded on the public notice, evidently +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page218" id="page218"></a>[pg 218]</span> +in the spirit of prejudice, there can be +nothing improper, I presume, in representing +matters in their true and proper light. Many of +the individuals thus calumniated are still alive +and settled in the civilized world, where they are +esteemed for qualities diametrically opposite to +those ascribed to them by their slanderer.</p> + +<p><a name="XV8" id="XV8"></a>It is well known that the chief advantages the +Hudson's Bay Company now possess, they owe to +the adventurous North-West traders; by these +traders the whole interior of the savage wilds was +first explored; by them the water communications +were first discovered and opened up to commercial +enterprise; by them the first trading posts +were established in the interior; by them the +natives were first reconciled to the whites; and +by them the trade was first reduced to the regular +system which the Hudson's Bay Company still +follows. When all this had been done by the +North-West Company, and they had begun to +reap the reward of their toils, and hardships, and +dangers, and expenditure—then did the Honourable +Hudson's Bay Company, led on by a British +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page219" id="page219"></a>[pg 219]</span> +peer, step forward and claim, as British subjects, +an equal right to share the trade.</p> + +<p><a name="XV9" id="XV9"></a>Their <i>noble</i> leader appeared first in Montreal in +the guise of a traveller, where he was received by +the North-Westers with open arms, was kindly +and hospitably entertained by them, his minutest +inquiries regarding their system of trade were +candidly and freely answered; and the information +thus obtained in the character of a traveller, +a guest, and a friend, he forthwith proceeded to +use to effect their ruin. Had, however, the +North-West Company continued true to themselves, +all his arts and attempts would have failed. +Had not dissension arisen in the ranks, it is clear +that <i>they</i>—not the Hudson's Bay Company—would +have granted the capitulation. Unfortunately +for themselves, however, the partners in +the interior, seeing the contest continue so long, +and the expenses swallow up all the profits, +despaired of the success that was almost within +their grasp, and commencing a correspondence +among themselves, finally determined on opening +a negotiation with their rivals. Two of their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page220" id="page220"></a>[pg 220]</span> +number were accordingly sent home, invested +with full powers to act for the general interest. +Those gentlemen arrived just as the Directors of +the North-West Company in London were about +to conclude a most advantageous treaty—a few +days more, and the articles had been ratified by +the signatures of both parties. At this conjuncture +the Delegates arrived, and instead of first +communicating with their own Directors, went +straight to the Hudson's Bay House, and presented +their credentials. <a name="XV10" id="XV10"></a>The Hudson's Bay Company +saw their advantage, and instead of receiving, now +dictated the terms; and thus the name of the +North-West Company was merged in that of its +rival, and the Canadian people were deprived of +all interest in that trade which owed its origin to +the courage and enterprise of their forefathers.</p> + +<p>Such were the relative circumstances of the +Hudson's Bay and North-West Companies. +From 1674 to 1813 the Hudson's Bay Company +slumbered at its posts along the shores of Hudson's +Bay, never attempting to penetrate beyond +the banks of the Saskatchewan, until the North-Westers +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page221" id="page221"></a>[pg 221]</span> +had led and cleared the way; and in +this manner began their rivalry. That collisions +should follow, marked by violence and outrage, +need not be wondered at. But violence and +outrage were not confined to one side; both +parties exceeded the limits prescribed by law. +Yet while stern justice alike condemns both, +which is the more guilty party? or which has +the greater claims on our sympathy?</p> + +<p>As to the North-West Company being guilty +of the blood of innocent Indians,—the charge is +as false as it is invidious. When the blood of +their servants was shed without cause or provocation, +as frequently happened when they first +encountered the fierce savage, they punished the +aggressors as the law of God allows, demanding +"blood for blood." But while the author (or +rather his informant, whose <i>ribbon</i> I can plainly +distinguish, although he strikes in the dark) so +freely censures the North-West Company for +avenging the murder of their people, does he +mean to insinuate that nothing of the kind is +done under the <i>humane</i> and <i>gentle</i> rule of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page222" id="page222"></a>[pg 222]</span> +Hudson's Bay Company? What became of +the Hannah Bay murderers? They were conveyed +to Moose Factory, bound hand and foot, +and there shot down by the orders of the Chief +Factor. Did the murders committed by the +natives at New Caledonia, Thompson's River, +and the Columbia, pass unavenged? No! the +penalty was fully paid in blood for blood.</p> + +<p>But since the author's informant seems disposed +to "rake up the smouldering embers" of +days bygone, I shall take the liberty of telling +him of a tragedy that was enacted at the ancient +date of 1836-7. In that winter, a party of men, +led by two clerks, was sent to look for some +horses that were grazing at a considerable distance +from the post. As they approached the +spot they perceived a band of Assineboine Indians, +eight in number (if I remember aright), on an +adjacent hill, who immediately joined them, and, +delivering up their arms, encamped with them +for the night. Next morning a <i>court martial</i> was +held by the two clerks and some of the men, to +determine the punishment due to the Indians for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page223" id="page223"></a>[pg 223]</span> +having been found near the company's horses, +with the <i>supposed</i> intention of carrying them off. +What was the decision of this mock court martial? +I shudder to relate, that the whole band, +after having given up their arms, and partaken +of their hospitality, were condemned to death, +and the sentence carried into execution on the +spot,—all were butchered in cold blood!</p> + +<p>With the exception of the massacre of the +Indians in McKenzie's River district in 1835, +no such deed of blood had been heard of in the +country. Yet our author's <i>impartial</i> informant, +perfectly acquainted as he was with all the circumstances +of the case, and ready enough as he +is to trumpet to the world the alleged crimes +of the North-West Company, takes no notice of +it! It may be said that the Company are not +answerable for crimes committed by their servants +without their knowledge. True; but when they +are made fully acquainted with those misdeeds, +and allow the perpetrators to escape with impunity, +the guilt is transferred to their own head; +"invitat culpam qui peccatum præterit." The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page224" id="page224"></a>[pg 224]</span> +proceedings of this court-martial were reported +at head-quarters, and the punishment awarded to +these murderers was—a reprimand! After this, +what protection, or generosity, or justice, can the +Indians he said to receive from the Hudson's Bay Company?</p> + +<p>The Indians to this day talk of their Northwest +"fathers" with regret. "Our old traders, +our fathers, did not serve us so," is a remark +I have frequently heard in every part of the +country where the North-West Company had +established posts. Had their rule been distinguished +by oppression or injustice, the natives +would rather have expressed their satisfaction at +its suppression; had it been tyrannical or oppressive, +it would not have been long tolerated. +The natives in those times were numerous and +warlike; the trading-posts were isolated and far +apart; and in the summer season, when the +managers proceeded to the dépôts, with the +greater part of their people, were entirely at +the mercy of the natives, who would not have +failed to take advantage of such opportunities to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page225" id="page225"></a>[pg 225]</span> +avenge their wrongs, had they suffered any. +The posts, in fact, were left entirely to their +protection, and depended on them for support +during the absence of the traders, who, on their +return in autumn, found themselves surrounded +by hundreds of rejoicing Indians, greeting their +"fathers" with every manifestation of delight;—he +who had not a gun to fire strained his lungs with shouting.</p> + +<p>The native population has decreased at an extraordinary +rate since those times. I do not mean +to affirm that this decrease arises from the Hudson's +Bay Company's treatment of them; but, +from whatever cause arising, it is quite certain +they have greatly decreased. Neither can it be +denied, that the natives are no longer the manly, +independent race they formerly were. On the +contrary, we now find them gloomy and dispirited, +unhappy and discontented.</p> + +<p>As to our vaunted "generosity" to the natives, I +am at a loss to know in what it consists. When a +band of Indians arrive at a trading post, each individual +is presented with a few inches of tobacco; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page226" id="page226"></a>[pg 226]</span> +here (at Fort Simpson) in winter we add a fish +to each. After their furs are traded, a few flints, +awls, and hooks, and a trifle of ammunition is +given them, in proportion to their hunts, and +then—"Va-t-en." This is about the average +amount of "generosity" they receive throughout +the country; varied, however, by the differences +of disposition observable in the Hudson's Bay Company's +traders, as among all other mortals. Some +of us would even withhold the awls and hooks, if +we could; others, at the risk of being "hauled +up" for extravagance, would add another hook to the number.</p> + +<p><a name="XV11" id="XV11"></a>Were the Company's standing rules and regulations +acted upon, we might perhaps have some +title to the generosity we boast of. In these rules +we are directed to supply <i>poor</i> Indians with ammunition +and fishing tackle, gratis. This looks +very well on paper; but are we allowed the means +of bestowing these gratuities? Certainly not.<a id="footnotetag3" name="footnotetag3"></a><a href="#footnote3"><sup>3</sup></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page227" id="page227"></a>[pg 227]</span> +Our outfits, in many cases, are barely sufficient to +meet the exigencies of the trade; they are continually +reduced in proportion to the decrease in +the returns; and the strictest economy is not only +recommended, but enforced. On the due fulfilment +of these commands our prospects in the +service depend; and few indeed will think of violating +them, or of sacrificing their own interests to +benefit Indians. I repeat that, far from having +it in our power to bestow anything gratuitously, +we are happy when allowed sufficient means to +barter for the furs the Indians bring us.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote3" name="footnote3"></a><b>Footnote 3: </b><a href="#footnotetag3">(return) </a><p>When the Israelites were ordered to provide straw for +their bricks, the material <i>could</i> be procured in Egypt, although +at the expense of great additional toil;—not so the supplies +for the Indian trade; in the event of a deficiency, neither +money nor labour can procure them.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The Company also make it appear by their +standing rules, that we are directed to instruct the +children, to teach the servants, &c.; but where are +the means of doing so? A few books, I have been +told, were sent out for this purpose, after the coalition; +what became of them I know not. I never +saw any. The history of commercial rule is well +known to the world; the object of that rule, +wherever established, or by whomsoever exercised, +is gain. In our intercourse with the natives of +America no other object is discernible, no other +object is thought of, no other object is allowed.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page228" id="page228"></a>[pg 228]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XVI1">ARRIVAL OF MR. LEFROY</a>—<a href="#XVI2">VOYAGE TO THE LOWER POSTS OF +THE MACKENZIE</a>—<a href="#XVI3">AVALANCHE</a>—<a href="#XVI4">INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE</a>—<a href="#XVI5">VOYAGE +TO PORTAGE LA LOCHE</a>—<a href="#XVI6">ARBITRARY AND +UNJUST CONDUCT OF THE GOVERNOR</a>—<a href="#XVI7">DESPOTISM</a>—<a href="#XVI8">MY REPLY TO THE GOVERNOR.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XVI1" id="XVI1"></a>In the early part of this winter several Indians +came in, complaining that they were starving for +want of food; and their emaciated forms proved +that they did not complain without cause. Our +means, however, were too limited to afford them +any effectual relief. We were glad to learn afterwards, +that although many suffered, none died +from actual want; and the rabbits soon afterwards +appearing in greater numbers than had been seen +for years past, relief was obtained.</p> + +<p>Towards the latter end of March, I was gratified +by the arrival of Mr. Lefroy. This gentleman +seems equal to all the hardships and privations +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page229" id="page229"></a>[pg 229]</span> +of a voyageur's life, having performed the +journey from Athabasca hither, a distance of at +least six hundred miles, on snow-shoes, without +appearing to have suffered any inconvenience from +it; thus proving himself the ablest <i>mangeur de lard</i> +we have had in the country for a number of years: +there are many of our old winterers who would +have been glad to excuse themselves if required to +undertake such a journey.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI2" id="XVI2"></a>The winter passed without any remarkable +occurrence; and on the breaking up of the river, +I set off for the lower posts, on the 23d of May, +accompanied by Mr. Lefroy, whose zeal for scientific +discovery neither cold, nor hunger, nor fatigue, +seems to depress. We arrived at Fort Norman +on the 27th of May; and after a few hours' delay, +embarked, proceeding down stream, night and day.</p> + +<p>We reached Fort Good Hope on the 29th, late +in the evening; but evening, morning, midnight, +and noon-day, are much the same here: I wrote +at midnight by the clear light of heaven. The +scientific reader need not be informed, that within +the arctic circle the sun is but a very short time +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page230" id="page230"></a>[pg 230]</span> +beneath the horizon, during the summer solstice. +The people of Fort Good Hope see him rising and +setting behind the same hill; and in clear weather +his rays shed a light above the horizon even after +he is set; while during the winter solstice the same +hill nearly conceals him from view. Yet the +gentleman in charge of this post has passed two +years without an inch of candle to light himself to +bed; and his predecessor did the same; so that he +has no reason to complain.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI3" id="XVI3"></a>On our way down we observed a land-slip, or +avalanche of earth, that had just tumbled into the +river. Mr. Lefroy examined the bank whence +it had been detached, and found, by measurement, +that the frozen ground was forty-six feet in depth!</p> + +<p><a name="XVI4" id="XVI4"></a>Our short sojourn at Fort Good Hope was rendered +very unpleasant by the dismal weather; it +continued snowing the whole time we remained. +The storm abating, we embarked at an early hour, +on the 31st of May, and had not proceeded above a +few leagues, when a fair breeze sprang up, greatly +to the satisfaction of all, but especially of the poor +fellows whose toil it relieved. It continued increasing; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page231" id="page231"></a>[pg 231]</span> +reef after reef was taken in, till our sheet +was finally reduced to a few feet in depth; yet so +furious was the gale that we ascended the strongest +current with nearly the same velocity we had +descended; while the snow fell so thick, and the +spray from the river was driven about so violently +by the wind, that we could scarce see our way, +and only escaped being dashed against the beach +by keeping in the centre of the stream. It was +also extremely cold; so that our situation in an +open boat was not the most enviable.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Fort Norman on the 2d of June, +about five, A.M., and remained until eleven, A.M., +when we embarked, the gale still continuing with +unabated violence. Immediately after leaving the +Fort the gale carried away our mast; fortunate it +was for us that it gave way, else the boat must +have capsized. We soon got another mast from +the Fort, and sped on our way night and day, if it +can be said there is any night here, when the light +is so powerful as to throw the stars into the shade. +Without experiencing much change in wind or +weather, we arrived at Fort Simpson on the 8th of +June; having thus performed a voyage of about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page232" id="page232"></a>[pg 232]</span> +1,400 miles (going and coming) in eleven days, +including stoppages. I found Mr. Lewis so far +recovered from the effects of his wound as to be +able to take the same active part in the management of affairs as formerly.</p> + +<p>The returns from the different posts being now +received, we found them to amount to upwards of +15,000<i>l.</i> in value, according to the tariff of last +year. Everything being ready for our departure, +we left Fort Simpson on the 15th of June, Mr. +Lefroy embarking with us. We proceeded to +Great Slave Lake without interruption, the weather +extremely fine. Within a day's rowing of +Fort Resolution we encountered a field of ice that +arrested our progress, till a change of wind carried it out to sea.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI5" id="XVI5"></a>The moment a passage opened we observed a +large canoe making for our encampment. It proved +to be Mr. Lefroy's, which he had left with the +most of his people at Athabasca. Mr. Lefroy embarked +in his own craft, and we proceeded to Fort +Resolution in company; and as he had determined +on following a different route to Athabasca, we +parted here, most probably never to meet again +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page233" id="page233"></a>[pg 233]</span> +in this life. Few gentlemen ever visited this +country who acquired so general esteem as Mr. +Lefroy; his gentlemanly bearing and affable manners +endeared him to us all. We arrived at Athabasca +on the 5th of July, and at Portage La +Loche on the 25th, where we found an increased +number of half-breeds waiting our arrival.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI6" id="XVI6"></a>The brigade from York Factory arrived with +the outfit on the 2d of August, and we exchanged +cargoes with the utmost expedition, they +receiving the returns of the district, and we the +outfit brought by them. By this conveyance +I received letters from the Governor, acquainting +me "that another gentleman was appointed to +the charge of McKenzie's River District, and that +he (the Governor) could not conceive on what +grounds I fancied myself to be the person so +appointed, as he was certain I could not have +arrived at such a conclusion from perusing the +instructions I had received from him last year!" +Until now I thought I understood the English +language as well as most people; but the Governor +makes it appear plainly enough that I ought +still to confine myself to the old Celtic.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page234" id="page234"></a>[pg 234]</span> + +<p>The instructions above referred to being given +in the foregoing pages, I shall leave the reader to +form his own opinion of one who, in the high and +honourable position of a Governor, could treat +so ungenerously one whom he admitted to be a +faithful and meritorious servant, and whom he had +acknowledged to be deserving of preferment: and +that not on the present only, but on several former occasions.</p> + +<p>This last insult I consider the climax to the +wrongs I have so long suffered. First I am appointed +in the usual terms to the charge of a +district. I am allowed to continue in that opinion +for a twelvemonth; I enter into correspondence +with the gentlemen of the district as their future +superintendent, and make my arrangements with +them as such; and, <i>au bout du compte</i>, am +ordered back to the same district to mix with the +crowd, and submit to another master. I leave +it to the reader to judge whether such a Governor +could possibly have the interests of the Company +at heart; even supposing for a moment there were +no <i>injustice</i> in the case; I leave it to him to +consider what effect a conduct and measures so +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page235" id="page235"></a>[pg 235]</span> +vacillating, unsteady and arbitrary, are likely to +have on the service and interests of the Company.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI7" id="XVI7"></a>This last act of the Governor made me completely +disgusted with a service where such acts +could be tolerated. In no colony subject to the +British Crown is there to be found an authority so +despotic as is at this day exercised in the mercantile +Colony of Rupert's Land; an authority combining +the despotism of military rule with the +strict surveillance and mean parsimony of the +avaricious trader. From Labrador to Nootka +Sound the unchecked, uncontrolled will of a single +individual gives law to the land. As to the nominal +Council which is yearly convoked for form's +sake, the few individuals who compose it know +better than to offer advice where none would be +accepted; they know full well that the Governor +has already determined on his own measures before +one of them appears in his presence. Their +assent is all that is expected of them, and that +they never hesitate to give. Many years pass +without such a thing as a legally constituted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page236" id="page236"></a>[pg 236]</span> +Council being held. A legal Council ought to +consist of seven members besides the Governor; +three chief factors and four chief traders. The +Council, however, seldom consists of more than +five members and the Governor.</p> + +<p>Some years ago, I happened to be at an establishment +where a "Council" was about to be +held. On inquiring of his Excellency's Secretary +what subject of moment he thought would first engage their attention—</p> + +<p>"Engage their attention!" he replied; "bless +your heart, man! the minutes of Council were all +drawn out before we arrived here; I have them in my pocket."</p> + +<p>Clothed with a power so unlimited, it is not to +be wondered at that a man who rose from a +humble situation should in the end forget what he +was and play the tyrant. Let others, if they will, +submit to be so ruled with a rod of iron. I at least shall not.</p> + +<p><a name="XVI8" id="XVI8"></a>In reply to his favour, I addressed the following +letter to his Excellency, a transcript of +which I transmitted to the Committee.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page237" id="page237"></a>[pg 237]</span> + +<p class="author">"Portage La Loche,<br /> +"<i>August</i> 3, 1844.</p> + +<p>"To <span class="sc">Sir George Simpson</span>, Governor of Rupert's Land:—</p> + +<p>"<span class="sc">Sir</span>—I have the honour to acknowledge your +several favours from Lachine and Red River, and +am mortified to learn by them you should think me +so stupid as not to understand your letters on the +subject of my appointment to the charge of the +district; your language being so clear, in fact, as +to admit of no other construction than the one +I put upon it. By referring to the minutes of +Council for 1843, I find myself appointed to +Fort Good Hope for that year; but you wrote me +subsequently to the breaking up of the Council, +and used these words: 'That is now the finest +field we have for the extension of trade, and I +count much on your activity for promoting our +views in that quarter. But while directing your +attention to the extension of <i>your district</i>, you +must also use your best endeavours to curtail the indents.'</p> + +<p>"Your letter to Mr. C.F. Lewis states, in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page238" id="page238"></a>[pg 238]</span> +nearly these words, that I 'am appointed to succeed +him;' and you beg of him 'to deliver into +my hands all the documents that refer to the affairs +of the district.' Mr. Lewis understood your letters +in the same sense as myself, and so did every +other person who perused them. What your object +may have been in altering this arrangement +afterwards, is best known to yourself; and whether +such conduct can be reconciled with the principles +of honour and integrity which you so strongly +recommend in others, and which are so necessary +to the well-being of society, is a question which I +shall leave for the present to your own decision; +while I cannot avoid remarking, that the treatment +I have experienced from you on this and on many +other occasions, is as unworthy of yourself and as +unworthy of the high station you fill, as I am undeserving of it.</p> + +<p>"When in 1837, I was congratulated by every +member of Council then present at Norway +House on the prospect of my immediate promotion, +(having all voted for me,) your authority was +interposed, and I was, as a matter of course, +rejected. You were then candid enough to tell +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page239" id="page239"></a>[pg 239]</span> +me that I should not have your interest until the +two candidates you then had in view were provided +for, and that it would then be my turn. With +this assurance from you I cheerfully prepared for +my <i>exile</i> to <i>Ungava</i>. <i>My turn</i> only came, however, +after <i>seven</i> other promotions had been made, +and I found myself the last on the list of three +gentlemen who were promoted at the same time.</p> + +<p>"You are pleased to jest with the hardships I +experienced while battling the watch with opposition +in the Montreal department, and the privations +I afterwards endured in New Caledonia. +Surely, Sir, you ought to have considered it +sufficient to have made me your dupe, and not +add insult to oppression. While in the Montreal +department I have your handwriting to show +your approval of my 'meritorious conduct,' the +course I was pursuing being 'the direct road to +preferment;' and your intention, even then, 'to +recommend me to the favourable notice of the +Governor and Committee;'—promises in which +I placed implicit confidence at the time, being as +yet a stranger to the ways of the world.—The +result of these promises, however, was that the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page240" id="page240"></a>[pg 240]</span> +moment opposition had ceased, I was ordered to +resign my situation to another, and march to enjoy +the 'delectable scenery' of New Caledonia; from +thence you sent me to Ungava, where you say you +are not aware I experienced any particular hardship or privation.</p> + +<p>"You are aware of the circumstances in which +I found myself when I arrived there: that consideration +was not allowed to interpose between +me and my duty, however; and I accordingly +traversed that desolate country in the depth of +winter,—a journey that nearly cost myself and +my companions our lives. I then continued to +explore the country during the entire period of +my command, and finally succeeded in discovering +a practicable communication with Esquimaux Bay, +and in determining the question so long involved +in uncertainty as to the riches the interior +possessed, and by so doing saved an enormous +expense to the concern. The Hon. Committee +are aware of my exertions in that quarter, themselves, +as I had the honour of being in direct communication with them while there.</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>"I have the honour, &c.</p> +<p>(Signed) "<span class="sc">John McLean</span>."</p> + </div> </div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page241" id="page241"></a>[pg 241]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XVII1">SITUATION OF FORT SIMPSON</a>—<a href="#XVII2">CLIMATE</a>—<a href="#XVII3">THE LIARD</a>—<a href="#XVII4">EFFECTS +OF THE SPRING FLOODS</a>—<a href="#XVII5">TRIBES INHABITING MACKENZIE'S +RIVER DISTRICT</a>—<a href="#XVII6">PECULIARITIES</a>—<a href="#XVII7">DISTRESS THROUGH +FAMINE</a>—<a href="#XVII8">CANNIBALISM</a>—<a href="#XVII9">ANECDOTE</a>—<a href="#XVII10">FORT +GOOD HOPE SAVED +BY THE INTREPIDITY OF M. DECHAMBAULT</a>—<a href="#XVII11">DISCOVERIES OF MR. CAMPBELL.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XVII1" id="XVII1"></a>Mr. Lewis embarked for York Factory on the +4th of August. I set out on my return on the +6th, and arrived at Fort Simpson on the 22d. +Having prepared and sent off the outfit for the +different posts with all possible expedition, I +found myself afterwards at leisure to note down +whatever I thought worthy of being recorded +with reference to this section of the country.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII2" id="XVII2"></a>There are seven posts in this district; three on +the River Liard and its tributaries; three on the +banks of McKenzie's River, and one on Peel's +River. About two degrees to the north of Good +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page242" id="page242"></a>[pg 242]</span> +Hope, Fort Simpson, the dépôt of the district, +is situated at the confluence of the Liard and +McKenzie, in lat. 61° north. Heat and cold are +here felt in the extremes; the thermometer frequently +falls to 50° minus in winter, and rises +sometimes to 100° in the shade in summer. <a name="XVII3" id="XVII3"></a>The +River Liard has its source in the south among +the Rocky Mountains: its current is remarkably +strong; <a name="XVII4" id="XVII4"></a>and in the early part of summer, when +swollen by the melting of the snow, it rushes +down in a foaming torrent, and pours into the +McKenzie, still covered with solid ice, when a +scene ensues terrific and grand:—the ice, resisting +for some time the force of the flood, ultimately +gives way with the noise of thunder, and clashing, +roaring and tumbling, it rolls furiously along until +it accumulates to such an extent as to dam the +river across. This again presents, for a time, a solid +barrier to the flood, which is stopped in its course; +it then rises sometimes to the height of thirty +and forty feet, overflowing the adjacent country +for miles, and levelling the largest trees with the +ground. The effects of this frightful conflict are +visible in all the lower grounds along the river. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page243" id="page243"></a>[pg 243]</span> +The trading posts are situated on the higher +grounds, yet they are not secure from danger. +Fort Good Hope was swept clean away some +years ago, and its inmates only saved themselves +by getting into a boat that happened fortunately +to be at hand. The McKenzie opens about the +end of May, and is ice-bound in November.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII5" id="XVII5"></a>The tribes who inhabit the banks of the +McKenzie, and the interior parts of the district, are +members of the powerful and numerous Chippewayan +family, and are known by the names of +Slaves, Dogribs, Rabbitskins, and Gens des Montagnes. +The Loucheux, or Squint-Eyes, frequent +the post on Peel's River, and speak a different +language; their hunting-grounds are within the +Russian boundary, and are supposed to be rich +in fur-bearing animals. The Loucheux have no +affinity with the Chippewayan tribes, nor with +their neighbours, the Esquimaux, with whom, +however, they maintain constant intercourse, +though not always of the most friendly kind, +violent quarrels frequently occurring between +them. The various dialects spoken by the other +tribes are intelligible to all; in manners, customs, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page244" id="page244"></a>[pg 244]</span> +and personal appearance, there is also the closest similarity.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII6" id="XVII6"></a>In one point, however, these tribes differ, not +only from the parent tribe, but from all the other +tribes of America;—they treat their women with +the utmost kindness, the men performing all the +drudgery that usually falls to the women. Here +the men are the hewers of wood and drawers of +water; they even clear away the snow for the +encampment; and, in short, perform every laborious +service. This is indeed passing strange;—the +Chippewayans, and all other Indians, treat +their women with harshness and cruelty; while +the women on the banks of the McKenzie—Scotticé—"wear +the breeks!" The Rabbitskins +and Slaves are in truth a mild, harmless, and even +a timid race; could it be this softness of disposition +that induced the weaker sex first to dispute, +and finally to assume the supremacy?—or what +cause can be assigned for a trait so peculiar in +this remotely situated portion of the Indian race?</p> + +<p>These tribes clothe themselves with the skins +of rabbits, and feed on their flesh; when the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page245" id="page245"></a>[pg 245]</span> +rabbits fail, they are reduced to the greatest distress +both for food and raiment. I saw a child +that remained naked for several days after its +birth, its parents having devoured every inch of +their miserable dress that could be spared from +their bodies: it was at last swaddled in crow's skins!</p> + +<p>These two tribes generally live near the banks +of the great rivers, and seem disposed to pass their +pilgrimage on earth with as little toil, and as +little regard to comfort, as any people in being. +They pass summer and winter in the open air; +they huddle together in an encampment, without +any other shelter from the inclemency of the +weather than what is afforded by the spreading +branches of some friendly pine, and use no more +fire than what is barely sufficient to keep them +from freezing. Their wants are few, and easily +provided for; when they have killed a few deer +to afford them sinews for making rabbit-snares, +they may be said to be independent for the remainder +of the season. Their work consists in +setting those snares, carrying home the game +caught in them, eating them when cooked, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page246" id="page246"></a>[pg 246]</span> +then lying down to sleep. A taste, however, for +articles of European manufacture is gaining +ground among them, and to obtain those articles +a more active life is necessary, so that some tolerable +fur-hunters are now to be found among them.</p> + +<p>The Dogribs occupy the barren grounds that +are around Great Bear Lake, and extend to the +Copper-mine River. That part of the country +abounds in rein-deer, whose skin and flesh afford +food and raiment to the natives. They are a +strong, athletic, well-formed race of Indians, and +are considered more warlike than their neighbours, +who evidently dread them.</p> + +<p>None of the Indians who frequent the posts +on McKenzie's River have hereditary chiefs; +the dignity is conferred by the gentlemen in +charge of posts on the best hunters. On these +occasions a suit of clothes is bestowed, the most +valued article of which is a coat of coarse red +cloth, decorated with lace; and, as the reward of +extraordinary merit, a felt hat is added, ornamented +in the same manner, with a feather stuck +in the side of it. Thus equipped, the new-made +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page247" id="page247"></a>[pg 247]</span> +chief sallies forth to receive the gratulations of +his admiring friends and relatives, among whom +the coat is ultimately divided, and probably +finishes its course in the shape of a tobacco-pouch. +In course of time, the individuals thus +distinguished obtain some weight in the councils +of their people, but their influence is very limited; +the whole of the Chippewayan tribes seem averse to superior rule.</p> + +<p>Like the Esquimaux and Carriers, they seem +to have had no idea of religion prior to the settlement +of Europeans among them; all the terms +they at present use in reference to the subject +seem of recent origin, and invented by the interpreters. +They name the Deity, "Ya ga ta-that-hee-hee,"—"The +Man who reclines on the sky;" +angels are called "the birds of the Deity,"—"ya +gat he-be e Yadzé;" the devil, "Ha is +linee," or, "the sorcerer."</p> + +<p><a name="XVII7" id="XVII7"></a>The Slaves and Rabbitskins have also their +magicians, whom alone they fear and reverence. +Polygamy is not common, yet there are instances +of one man having two <i>female masters</i>. In times +of famine the cravings of hunger often drive these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page248" id="page248"></a>[pg 248]</span> +poor Indians to desperation, when the feelings of +humanity and of nature seem utterly eradicated.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII8" id="XVII8"></a>During the fearful distress of the two past years, +a band of Slaves came to Fort Simpson in a condition +not to be described. Many of them had +perished by the way; but the history of one +family is the most shocking I ever heard. The +husband first destroyed the wife, and packed her +up as provision for the journey. The supply +proving insufficient, one of the children was next +sacrificed. The cannibal was finally left by the +party he accompanied with only one child remaining—a +boy of seven or eight years of age. Mr. Lewis +immediately despatched two men with some pemmican, +to meet him; the aid came too late,—they +found the monster roasting a part of his last child +at the fire. Horrified at the sight, they uttered +not a word, but threw the provisions into the +encampment, and retreated as fast as they could. +A few days afterwards this brute arrived strong +and hearty, and appeared as unconcerned as if all +had gone on well with him and his family. Cannibalism +is more frequently known among the +Slaves and Rabbitskins than any other of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page249" id="page249"></a>[pg 249]</span> +kindred tribes; and it is said that women are +generally the perpetrators of the crime; it is also +said, that when once they have tasted of this +unhallowed food they prefer it to every other.</p> + +<p>All the Chippewayan tribes dispose of their +dead by placing them in tombs made of wood, +and sufficiently strong to resist the attacks of +wild beasts. The body is laid in the tomb at +full length, without any particular direction being +observed as to the head or feet. Neither they, +nor any other Indians I am acquainted with, +place their dead in a sitting posture.</p> + +<p>It is affirmed by some writers that the Indians +have a tradition among them of the migration +of their progenitors from east to west. I have +had every opportunity of investigating the question, +and able interpreters wherever I wintered; +but I never could learn that any such tradition +existed. Even in their tales and legends there +is never any reference to a distant land; when +questioned in regard to this, their invariable +answer is, "Our fathers and our fathers' fathers +have hunted on these lands ever since the flood, +and we never heard of any other country till the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page250" id="page250"></a>[pg 250]</span> +whites came among us." These tribes have the +same tradition in regard to the flood, that I heard +among the Algonquins at the gates of Montreal, +some trifling incidents excepted.</p> + +<p>Unlike most other Indians, the Slaves have no +fixed bounds to their hunting-grounds, but roam +at large, and kill whatever game comes in their +way, without fear of their neighbours. The +hunter who first finds a beaver-lodge claims it +as his property, but his claim is not always respected.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII9" id="XVII9"></a>Besides the Indians enumerated in the preceding +pages, a number of stragglers, but little +known to us, occasionally resort to the post. A +band of these—nine in number—made their +appearance at Fort Norman this summer; and, +after trading their furs, set out for Fort Good +Hope, with the avowed intention of plundering +the establishment, and carrying off all the women +they could find. On arriving at the post they +rushed in, their naked bodies blackened and +painted after the manner of warriors bent on +shedding blood; each carrying a gun and dirk in his hands.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page251" id="page251"></a>[pg 251]</span> + +<p>The chief, on being presented with the usual +gratuity—a piece of tobacco, rudely refused it; +and commenced a violent harangue against the +whites, charging them with the death of all the +Indians who had perished by hunger during +the last three years; and finally challenged M. +Dechambault, the gentleman in charge of the post, +to single combat. M. Dechambault, <i>dicto citius</i>, +instantly sprung upon him, and twisting his arm +into his long hair, laid him at his feet; and pointing +his dagger at his throat, dared him to utter +another word. So sudden and unexpected was +this intrepid act, that the rest of the party looked +on in silent astonishment, without power to assist +their fallen chief, or revenge his disgrace. M. +Dechambault was too generous to strike a prostrate +foe, even although a savage, but allowed the +crest-fallen chief to get on his legs again; and thus the affair ended.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII10" id="XVII10"></a>The Company owe the safety of the establishment +to Mr. D.'s intrepidity: had he hesitated to +act at the decisive moment, the game was up with +him, for he had only two lads with him, on whose +aid he could place but little reliance. Mr. D. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page252" id="page252"></a>[pg 252]</span> +has been thirty years in the Company's service, +and is still a <i>clerk</i>; but he is himself to blame for +his want of promotion, having been so inconsiderate +as to allow himself to be born in Canada, +a crime which admits of no expiation.</p> + +<p>This district is at present by far the richest in +furs of any in the country; this is owing partly +to the indolence of the natives, and partly to the +circumstance of the beaver in some localities +being, through the barrenness of the surrounding +country, inaccessible to the hunter. When the +haunts of the animal become overcrowded, they +send forth colonies to other quarters.</p> + +<p>At the first arrival of the Europeans, large +animals, especially moose and wood rein-deer, +were abundant everywhere. In those times the +resources of the district were adequate to the +supply of provisions for every purpose; whereas, +of late years, we have been under the necessity of +applying for assistance to other districts.</p> + +<p><a name="XVII11" id="XVII11"></a>A new field has lately been laid open for the +extension of the trade of this district. An enterprising +individual—Mr. R. Campbell—having been +for several years employed in exploring the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page253" id="page253"></a>[pg 253]</span> +interior, last summer succeeded in finding his way +to the west side of the Rocky Mountain chain. +The defile he followed led him to the banks of a +very large river, on which he embarked with his +party of hardy pioneers; and following its course +for several days through a charming country, rich +in game of every description—elk, rein-deer, and +beaver, he eventually fell in with Indians, who +received them kindly, although they had never +seen Europeans before. From them he learned +that a party of whites, Russians of course, had +ascended the river in the course of the summer, +had quarrelled with the natives, and killed several +of them; and that the whites had returned +forthwith to the coast. These friendly Indians +entreated Mr. C. to proceed no farther, representing +that he and his party were sure to fall +victims to their revenge. This, however, could +not shake his resolution; he had set out with the +determination of proceeding to the sea at all +hazards, and no prospect of danger could turn +him from it; till his party refused to proceed +farther on any conditions, when he was compelled to return.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page254" id="page254"></a>[pg 254]</span> + +<p>The returns of this district have, for years past, +averaged 12,000<i>l.</i> per annum; the outfit, including +supplies for officers and servants, has not +exceeded as many hundreds. The affairs of the +different posts are managed by seven or eight +clerks and postmasters; and there are about +forty hired servants—Europeans, Canadians, and +half-breeds; Indians are hired for the trip to +the portage. The living for some years past has +not been such as Gil Blas describes, as "fit to +tickle the palate of a bishop;" at Fort Simpson +we had, for the most part of the season, fish +and potatoes for breakfast, potatoes and fish for +dinner, and cakes made of flour and grease for +supper. The fish procured in this quarter is of a very inferior quality.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page255" id="page255"></a>[pg 255]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XVIII1">MR. MACPHERSON ASSUMES THE COMMAND</a>—<a href="#XVIII2">I AM APPOINTED +TO FORT LIARD, BUT EXCHANGE FOR GREAT SLAVE LAKE</a>—<a href="#XVIII3">THE +INDIANS</a>—<a href="#XVIII4">RESOLVE TO QUIT THE SERVICE</a>—<a href="#XVIII5">PHENOMENA OF THE LAKE.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XVIII1" id="XVIII1"></a>On the 2d of October Mr. McPherson arrived +from Canada, and I forthwith demitted the charge. +<a name="XVIII2" id="XVIII2"></a>I was now appointed to Fort Liard, but the +season being far advanced, it had been found +necessary to appoint another previously, whose +arrangements for the season being completed, it +was deemed expedient that I should pass the +winter at Great Slave Lake; and I embarked for +that station accordingly on the 4th, and arrived on the 16th.</p> + +<p>This post formerly belonged to Athabasca, but +is now transferred to McKenzie's River district. +The natives consist of Chippewayans, properly so +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page256" id="page256"></a>[pg 256]</span> +called, and Yellow Knives, a kindred tribe; the +former inhabit the wooded parts of the country, +extending along the northern and eastern shores +of the lake; and the latter, the opposite side extending +towards the Arctic regions, where there is +no wood to be found; it abounds, however, in +rein-deer and musk oxen. The Yellow Knives +were at one time a powerful and numerous tribe; +but their number has been greatly diminished by +a certain disease that lately prevailed among them, +and proved peculiarly fatal. They also waged a +short but bloody war with the Dogribs, that cost +many lives. They muster at present between sixty +and eighty men able to bear arms.</p> + +<p><a name="XVIII3" id="XVIII3"></a>The Chippewayans in this quarter are a shrewd +sensible people, and evince an eager readiness to +imitate the whites. Some years ago a Methodist +Missionary visited Athabasca; and although he +remained but a short time, his instructions seemed +to have made a deep impression. They observe +the Sabbath with great strictness, never stirring +from their lodges to hunt, nor even to fetch home +the game when killed, on that day; and they +carefully abstain from all the grosser vices to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page257" id="page257"></a>[pg 257]</span> +which they formerly were addicted. What might +not be expected of a people so docile, if they +possessed the advantages of regular instruction!</p> + +<p><a name="XVIII4" id="XVIII4"></a>Having fortunately a supply of books with me, +and other means of amusement, I found the +winter glide away without suffering much from +ennui; my health, however, proved very indifferent; +and that circumstance alone would have +been sufficient to induce me to quit this wretched +country, even if my earlier prospects had been +realized, as they have not been. From the +accompt current, I find my income as chief trader +for 1841 amounts to no more than 120<i>l.</i>: "Sic +vos non vobis mellificatis apes;" and since things +are come to this pass, it is high time I should +endeavour to make honey for myself, in some +other sphere of life. I therefore transmitted my +resignation to head-quarters.</p> + +<p><a name="XVIII5" id="XVIII5"></a>I cannot close this chapter without mentioning +a singular phenomenon which the lake presents +in the winter season. The ice is never less than +five feet in thickness, frequently from eight to +nine; yet the water under this enormous crust +not only feels the changes in the atmosphere, but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page258" id="page258"></a>[pg 258]</span> +anticipates them. An approaching change of +wind or weather is known twenty-four hours +before it occurs. For instance, while the weather +is perfectly calm, if a storm be at hand, the lake +becomes violently agitated the day before; when +calm weather is to succeed, it is indicated in like +manner by the previous stillness of the lake, even +when the gale is still raging in the air. In summer +there is no perceptible current in the lake; +in winter, however, a current always sets in the +direction of the wind, and indicates a change of +wind by running in a different direction. These +curious points have been ascertained by the long +observation of our fishermen, who, in the beginning +of winter, bore holes in the ice for the +purpose of setting their lines, and visit them +every day, both in order to keep them open, and +to take up what fish may be caught.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the frequent shifting of the +current, they experience no little difficulty in +adjusting their lines, the current being occasionally +so strong as to raise them to an angle +of forty degrees. Thus, if the lines were too +long, and the current not very strong, they would +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page259" id="page259"></a>[pg 259]</span> +drag on the bottom; if too short, and the current +strong, they would be driven up upon the ice. +The approach of a storm is indicated, not by +any heaving of the ice, but by the strength of +the current, and the roaring of the waves under +the ice, which is distinctly heard at a considerable +distance, and is occasionally increased by the +collision of detached masses of broken ice, which, +in the earlier part of the season, have been driven under the main crust.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page260" id="page260"></a>[pg 260]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XIX1">REFLECTIONS</a>—<a href="#XIX2">PROSPECTS IN THE SERVICE</a>—<a href="#XIX3">DECREASE OF THE +GAME</a>—<a href="#XIX4">COMPANY'S POLICY IN CONSEQUENCE</a>—<a href="#XIX5">APPEAL OF +THE INDIANS</a>—<a href="#XIX6">MEANS OF PRESERVING THEM, AND IMPROVING +THEIR CONDITION</a>—<a href="#XIX7">ABOLITION OF THE CHARTER</a>—<a href="#XIX8">OBJECTIONS ANSWERED.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XIX1" id="XIX1"></a>The history of my career may serve as a warning +to those who may be disposed to enter the Hudson's +Bay Company's service. <a name="XIX2" id="XIX2"></a>They may learn +that, from the moment they embark in the Company's +canoes at Lachine, or in their ships at +Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized +man most values on earth. They bid adieu to +their family and friends, probably for ever; for +if they should remain long enough to attain the +promotion that allows them the privilege of revisiting +their native land—a period of from +twenty to twenty-five years—what changes does +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page261" id="page261"></a>[pg 261]</span> +not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? +They bid adieu to all the comforts and conveniences +of civilized life, to vegetate at some +desolate, solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, +from any other human habitation, save the wig-wam +of the savage; without any other society +than that of their own thoughts, or of the two +or three humble individuals who share their exile. +They bid adieu to all the refinement and cultivation +of civilized life, not unfrequently becoming +semi-barbarians,—so altered in habits and sentiments, +that they not only become attached to +savage life, but eventually lose all relish for any other.</p> + +<p>I can give good authority for this. The +Governor, writing me last year regarding some +of my acquaintances who had recently retired, +observes—"They are comfortably settled, but +apparently at a loss what to do with themselves; +and sigh for the Indian country, the squaws, and skins, and savages."</p> + +<p><a name="XIX3" id="XIX3"></a>Such are the rewards the Indian trader may +expect;—add to these, in a few cases, the acquisition +of some thousands, which, after forty years' +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page262" id="page262"></a>[pg 262]</span> +exile, he has neither health, nor strength, nor +taste to enjoy. Few instances have occurred of +gentlemen retiring with a competency under +thirty-five or forty years' servitude, even in the +best days of the trade; what period may be +required to attain that object in these times, is +a question not easily solved. Up to 1840, one +eighty-fifth share had averaged 400<i>l.</i> per annum; +since then, however, the dividends have been on +the decline, nor are they ever likely to reach the +same amount, for several reasons,—the chief of +which is the destruction of the fur-bearing animals.</p> + +<p><a name="XIX4" id="XIX4"></a>In certain parts of the country, it is the Company's +policy to destroy them along the whole +frontier; and our general instructions recommend +that every effort be made to lay waste the country, +so as to offer no inducement to petty traders to +encroach on the Company's limits. Those instructions +have indeed had the effect of ruining +the country, but not of protecting the Company's +domains. Along the Canadian frontier, the +Indians, finding no more game on their own +lands, push beyond the boundary, and not only +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page263" id="page263"></a>[pg 263]</span> +hunt on the Company's territory, but carry a +supply of goods with them, which they trade +with the natives. Their Honours' fiat has also +nearly swept away the fur animals on the west +side of the Rocky Mountains; yet I doubt +whether all this precaution will ensure the integrity +of their domains. The Americans have +taken possession of the Columbia, and will +speedily multiply and increase: ere many years +their trappers will be found scouring the interior, +from the banks of the Columbia to New Caledonia, +and probably penetrating to the east side +of the Rocky Mountains. Should they do so, +that valuable part of the country embraced by +the Peace and McKenzie Rivers would soon be +ruined; for the white trapper makes a clean +sweep wherever he goes. Taking all these circumstances +into consideration, I do not see any +great probability—to say the least—that the trade +will ever attain the prosperity of days bygone.</p> + +<p>Even in such parts of the country as the Company +endeavour to preserve, both the fur-bearing +and larger animals have of late become so scarce, +that some tribes are under the necessity of quitting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page264" id="page264"></a>[pg 264]</span> +their usual hunting-grounds. A certain +gentleman, in charge of a district to which some +of those Indians withdrew, on being censured for +harbouring them in his vicinity, writes thus:—"Pray, +is it surprising, that poor Indians, whose +lives are in jeopardy, should relish a taste of +buffalo meat? It is not the Chippewayans alone +that leave their lands to go in search of food to +preserve their lives; the Strongwood Crees and +Assineboines are all out in the plains, because, +as they affirm, their usual hunting-grounds are +so exhausted that they cannot live upon them. +It is no wish of mine that those Indians should +visit us—we have trouble enough with our own,—but +to turn a poor Indian out of doors, who +arrives at the Company's establishment nearly +dead with hunger, is what I am not able to do."</p> + +<p>In the work already quoted I find it stated +"that the Company have carefully nursed the +various animals, removing their stations from the +various districts where they had become scarce, +and taking particular care to preserve the female +while pregnant! instead, therefore, of being in a +state of diminution, as generally supposed, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page265" id="page265"></a>[pg 265]</span> +produce is increasing throughout their domains." +Fudge! It is unnecessary to say, that if this +statement were correct, we should not hear +such distressing accounts of starvation throughout +the country. No people can be more attached +to their native soil than the Indians; and it is +only the most pressing necessity that ever compels them to remove.</p> + +<p>In 1842 the Governor and Committee issued +positive orders that the beavers should be preserved, +and every effort made to prevent the +Indians from killing them for a period of three +years. This was, in a great measure, "shutting the +stable door after the steed was stolen." The beavers +had already been exterminated in many parts of +the country; and even where some were yet to be +found, our injunctions to the natives to preserve +them had but little weight. To appease their +hunger they killed whatever game came in their +way, and as we were not permitted to buy the +beaver skins, they either converted them into +articles of clothing for themselves or threw them +away. Now (1845) the restriction is removed, +and the beavers have sensibly increased; but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page266" id="page266"></a>[pg 266]</span> +mark the result: the natives are not only encouraged +but strenuously urged to hunt, in order +that the parties interested may indemnify themselves +for their lost time; and ere three years +more shall have elapsed, the beaver will be found scarcer than ever.</p> + +<p>It is thus evident that whatever steps their +Honours may take to preserve the game, the +attainment of that object, in the present exhausted +state of the country, is no longer practicable.</p> + +<p>As to the Company's having ever issued orders, +or recommended any particular measures for the +preservation of the larger animals, male or female, +the statement is positively untrue. The minutes +of the Council are considered the statutes of the +land, and in them the provision districts are +directed to furnish so many bags of pemmican, so +many bales of dry meat, and so many cwt. of +grease, every year; and no reference whatever is +made to restrictions of any kind in killing the +animals. The fact is, the provisions must be +forthcoming whatever be the consequence; our +business cannot be carried on without them.</p> + +<p>That the natives wantonly destroy the game in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page267" id="page267"></a>[pg 267]</span> +years of deep snow is true enough; but the snow +fell to as great a depth before the advent of the +whites as after, and the Indians were as prone to +slaughter the animals then as now; yet game of +every description abounded and want was unknown. +To what cause then are we to ascribe +the present scarcity? There can be but one +answer—to the destruction of the animals which +the prosecution of the fur-trade involves.</p> + +<p>As the country becomes impoverished, the +Company reduce their outfits so as to ensure the +same amount of profit,—an object utterly beyond +their reach, although economy is pushed to the +extreme of parsimony; and thus, while the game +becomes scarcer, and the poor natives require +more ammunition to procure their living, their +means of obtaining it, instead of being increased, +are lessened. As an instance of the effects of this +policy, I shall mention what recently occurred in the Athabasca district.</p> + +<p>Up to 1842 the transport of the outfit required +four boats, when it was reduced to three. The +reduction in the article of ammunition was felt so +severely by the Chippewayans, that the poor creatures, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page268" id="page268"></a>[pg 268]</span> +in absolute despair, planned a conspiracy to +carry off the gentleman at the head of affairs, and +retain him until the Company should restore the usual outfit.</p> + +<p>Despair alone could have suggested such an +idea to the Chippewayans, for they have ever +been the friends of the white man. Mr. Campbell, +however, who had passed his life among them, +conducted himself with so much firmness and +judgment, that, although the natives had assembled +in his hall with the intention of carrying their +design into execution, the affair passed over without +any violence being attempted.</p> + +<p>The general outfit for the whole northern +department amounted in 1835, to 31,000<i>l.</i>; now +(1845) it is reduced to 15,000<i>l.</i>, of which one-third +at least is absorbed by the stores at Red +River settlement, and a considerable portion of +the remainder by the officers and servants of the +Company throughout the country. I do not believe +that more than one half of the outfit goes to the Indians.</p> + +<p><a name="XIX5" id="XIX5"></a>While the resources of the country are thus +becoming yearly more and more exhausted, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page269" id="page269"></a>[pg 269]</span> +question naturally suggests itself, What is to +become of the natives when their lands can no +longer furnish the means of subsistence? This is +indeed a serious question, and well worthy of the +earnest attention of the philanthropist. While +Britain makes such strenuous exertions in favour +of the sable bondsmen of Africa, and lavishes her +millions to free them from the yoke, can nothing +be done for the once noble, but now degraded, +aborigines of America? Are they to be left to +the tender mercies of the trader until famine and +disease sweep them from the earth? People of +Britain! the Red Men of America thus appeal to +you;—from the depths of their forest they send forth their cry—</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>"Brethren! beyond the Great Salt Lake, we, the Red Men of America salute you:—</p> +<p>"Brethren!</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>"We hear that you are a great and a generous +people; that you are as valiant as generous; +and that you freely shed your blood and +scatter your gold in defence of the weak and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page270" id="page270"></a>[pg 270]</span> +oppressed; if it be so, you will open your ears to our plaints.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! Our ancients still remember when +the Red Men were numerous and happy; they +remember the time when our lands abounded with +game; when the young men went forth to the +chase with glad hearts and vigorous limbs, and +never returned empty; in those days our camps +resounded with mirth and merriment; our youth +danced and enjoyed themselves; they anointed +their bodies with fat; the sun never set on a +foodless wigwam, and want was unknown.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! When your kinsmen came first +to us with guns, and ammunition, and other good +things the work of your hands, we were glad and +received them joyfully; our lands were then rich, +and yielded with little toil both furs and provisions +to exchange for the good things they brought us.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! Your kinsmen are still amongst +us; they still bring us goods, and now we cannot +want them; without guns and ammunition we +must die. Brethren! our fathers were urged by +the white men to hunt; our fathers listened to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page271" id="page271"></a>[pg 271]</span> +them; they ranged wood and plain to gratify +their wishes; and now our lands are ruined, our +children perish with hunger.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! We hear that you have another +Great Chief who rules over you, to whom even +our great trading Chief must bow; we hear that +this great and good Chief desires the welfare of +all his children; we hear that to him the white +man and the red are alike, and, wonderful to be +told! that he asks neither furs nor game in return +for his bounty. Brethren! we feel that we can +no longer exist as once we did; we implore your +Great Chief to shield us in our present distress; +we desire to be placed under his immediate care, +and to be delivered from the rule of the trading +Chief who only wants our furs, and cares nothing for our welfare.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! Some of your kinsmen visited us +lately; they asked neither our furs nor our flesh; +their sojourn was short; but we could see they +were good men; they advised us for our good, +and we listened to them. Brethren! We humbly +beseech your Great Chief that he would send +some of those good men to live amongst us: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page272" id="page272"></a>[pg 272]</span> +we desire to be taught to worship the Great Spirit +in the way most pleasing to him: without teachers +among us we cannot learn. We wish to be +taught to till the ground, to sow and plant, and to +perform whatever the good white people counsel +us to do to preserve the lives of our children.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! We could say much more, but we +have said enough,—we wish not to weary you.</p> + +<p>"Brethren! We are all the children of the +Great Spirit; the red man and the white man were +formed by him. And although we are still in +darkness and misery, we know that all good flows +from him. May he turn your hearts to pity the +distress of your Red Brethren! Thus have we spoken to you."</p> + +<p><a name="XIX6" id="XIX6"></a>Such are the groans of the Indians. Would to +Heaven they were heard by my countrymen as I +have heard them! Would to Heaven that the +misery I have witnessed were seen by them! The +poor Indians then would not appeal to them in +vain. I can scarcely hope that the voice of a +humble, unknown individual, can reach the ears, +or make any impression on the minds of those who +have the supreme rule in Britain; but if there are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page273" id="page273"></a>[pg 273]</span> +there men of rank, and fortune, and influence, +whose hearts sympathise with the misery and distress +of their fellow-men, whatever be their country +or hue—and, thank God! there are not a few—it +is to those true Britons that I would appeal in +behalf of the much-wronged Indians; the true and +rightful owners of the American soil.</p> + +<p><a name="XIX7" id="XIX7"></a>If I am asked what I would suggest as the most +effective means for saving the Indians, I answer: +Let the Company's charter be abolished, and the +portals of the territory be thrown wide open to +every individual of capital and enterprise, under +certain restrictions; let the British Government +take into its hands the executive power of the +territory, and appoint a governor, judges, and magistrates; +let Missionaries be sent forth among the +Indians;—already the whole of the Chippewayan +tribes, from English River to New Caledonia, are +disposed to adopt our religion as well as our +customs, so that the Missionaries' work is half +done. Let those of them who manifest a disposition +to steady industry be encouraged to cultivate +the ground: let such as evince any aptitude for +mechanics be taught some handicraft, and congregated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page274" id="page274"></a>[pg 274]</span> +in villages, wherever favourable situations +can be found—and there is no want of them. Let +schools be established and supported by Government—not +mere <i>common</i> schools, where reading, +writing, arithmetic, and perhaps some of the higher +branches may be taught; but <i>training</i> and <i>industrial</i> +schools. Where the soil or climate is unfit +for husbandry, other means of improving their +condition might be resorted to. In the barren +grounds, bordering on the Arctic regions, rein-deer +still abound. Why should not the Indians succeed +in domesticating these animals, and rendering them +subservient to their wants, as the Laplanders do? +I have been informed that the Yellow Knives, and +some of the other tribes inhabiting these desert +tracts, have the art of taming the fawns, which +they take in great numbers while swimming after +their dams, so that they follow them like dogs till +they see fit to kill them.</p> + +<p>Such, in brief, are the measures which, after +much experience, and long and serious consideration, +I would venture to propose in behalf of the +Indians; and most happy shall I be if anything I +have said shall have the effect of awakening the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page275" id="page275"></a>[pg 275]</span> +public interest to their condition; or form the +groundwork of any plan which, by the blessing of +God, may have the effect of preserving and christianizing +the remnants of these unhappy tribes.</p> + +<p><a name="XIX8" id="XIX8"></a>It may be objected, that the Company have had +their charter renewed for a period of twenty-one +years, which does not expire till 1863; and that +Government is bound in honour to sustain the +validity of the deed. But if Government is bound +to protect the <i>interests</i> of the Hudson's Bay Company, +is it less bound to protect the <i>property</i> and +<i>lives</i> of their weak, ignorant, and wronged subjects? +The validity of the original charter, the +foundation of the present, is, however, more than +questioned: nay, it has been declared by high +authority to be null and void. Admitting its +validity, and admitting that the dictates of honour +call for the fulfilment of the charter in guarding +the <i>profits</i> of the few individuals (and their +dependants) who assemble weekly in the old +house in Fenchurch Street; are we to turn a deaf +ear to the still small voice of justice and humanity +pleading in behalf of the numerous tribes of perishing +Indians? Now, now is the time to apply +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page276" id="page276"></a>[pg 276]</span> +the remedy; in 1863, where will the Indian be?</p> + +<p>If it is urged that the measures I propose violate +the charter, deprive the Company of their +sovereignty, and reduce them to the situation of +subjects; still, I say, they will have vast advantages +over every other competitor. Their ample +resources, their long exclusive possession of the +trade, their experience, the skill and activity of +their agents, will long, perhaps permanently, +secure to them the greatest portion of the trade; +while the Indians will be greatly benefited by a free competition.</p> + +<p>If it be urged that the profits will be so much +reduced by competition, that the trade will not be +worth pursuing; I answer, that competition has +certainly a natural tendency to reduce profits; but +experience proves that it has also a tendency to +reduce costs. A monopolist company never goes +very economically to work; and, although much +economy, or rather parsimony, of a very questionable +and impolitic kind, has been of late years +attempted to be introduced into the management +of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, a free and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page277" id="page277"></a>[pg 277]</span> +fair competition will suggest economy of a sounder +kind—the facilitating of transport, the improvement +of portages, and the saving of labour. +Where are the evils which interested alarmists +predicted would follow the modification of the +East India Company's charter?</p> + +<p>I have spoken of restrictions to be imposed on +those who engage in the trade. These are;—that +no one be allowed to engage in it without a licence +from Government;—that these licensed traders +should be confined to a certain locality, beyond +which they should not move, on any pretext;—and +that no spirituous liquors should be sold or +given to the Indians under the severest penalties—such +as the forfeiture of the offender's licence, and +of their right to participate in the trade in all time coming.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page278" id="page278"></a>[pg 278]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XX1">WESLEYAN MISSION</a>—<a href="#XX2">MR. EVANS</a>—<a href="#XX3">ENCOURAGEMENT GIVEN BY +THE COMPANY</a>—<a href="#XX4">MR. EVANS'S EXERTIONS AMONG THE INDIANS</a>—<a href="#XX5">CAUSES +OF THE WITHDRAWAL OF THE COMPANY'S SUPPORT</a>—<a href="#XX6">CALUMNIOUS +CHARGES AGAINST MR. EVANS</a>—<a href="#XX7">MR. +E. GOES TO ENGLAND</a>—<a href="#XX8">HIS SUDDEN DEATH.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XX1" id="XX1"></a>Allusion has been made in a former chapter +to the Company's encouragement of Missionaries; +I shall now add a few facts by way of illustration.</p> + +<p><a name="XX2" id="XX2"></a>The Rev. Mr. Evans, a man no less remarkable +for genuine piety than for energy and decision of +character, had been present at several of the +annual meetings of the Indians at Manitoulin +Island, and had felt his sympathy deeply awakened +by the sight of their degradation and spiritual +destitution. While thus affected, he received an +invitation from the American Episcopal Methodists +to go as a Missionary among the Indians resident +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page279" id="page279"></a>[pg 279]</span> +in the Union. Feeling, however, that his services +were rather due to his fellow-subjects, he +resolved to devote his labours and his life to the +tribes residing in the Hudson's Bay territory. +Having made known his intentions to this Canada +Conference, he, together with Messrs. Thomas +Hurlburt, and Peter Jacobs, was by them appointed +a Missionary, and at their charges sent to +that territory. No application was made to the +Company, and neither encouragement nor support +was expected from them. Mr. E. and his +brother Missionaries began their operations by +raising with their own hands, unassisted, a house +at the Pic; themselves cutting and hauling the +timber on the ice. They obtained, indeed, a temporary +lodging at Fort Michipicoton, but they not +only found their own provisions, but the comforts +of the establishment were materially increased +by Mr. E.'s and his interpreter's success in fishing +and hunting. Late in the fall, accompanied by +two Indian boys in a small canoe, Mr. E. made +a voyage to Sault Ste. Marie for provisions: +and on this expedition, rendered doubly hazardous +by the lateness of the season, and the inexperience +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page280" id="page280"></a>[pg 280]</span> +of his companions, he more than once narrowly escaped being lost.</p> + +<p><a name="XX3" id="XX3"></a>Returning next season to Canada for his family, +he met Sir G. Simpson, on Lake Superior. +Having learned that the Mission was already +established, and likely to succeed, Sir George +received him with the utmost urbanity, treating +him not only with kindness but with distinction; +he expressed the highest satisfaction at the establishment +of the Mission, promised him his utmost +support, and at length proposed that arrangement, +which, however apparently auspicious for the +infant Mission, was ultimately found to be very prejudicial to it.</p> + +<p>The caution of Mr. E. was completely lulled +asleep by the apparent kindness of the Governor, +and the hearty warmth with which he +seemed to enter into his views. Sir George proposed +that the Missionaries should hold the same +rank and receive the same allowance as the +wintering partners, or commissioned officers; and +that canoes, or other means of conveyance, should +be furnished to the Missionaries for their expeditions; +nor did it seem unreasonable to stipulate +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page281" id="page281"></a>[pg 281]</span> +that in return for these substantial benefits, they +should say or do nothing prejudicial to the Company's +interests either among the natives, or in +their Reports to the Conference in England, to +whose jurisdiction the Mission was transferred. +The great evil of this arrangement was, that the +Missionaries, from being the servants of God, +accountable to Him alone, became the servants of +the Hudson's Bay Company, dependent on, and +amenable to them; and the Committee were of +course to be the sole judges of what was, or was +not, prejudicial to their interests. Still, it is +impossible to blame very severely either Mr. E. +or the Conference for accepting offers apparently +so advantageous, or even for consenting to certain +restrictions in publishing their Reports:—with +the assistance and co-operation of the Company +great good might be effected;—with the hostility +of a Corporation all but omnipotent within its +own domain, and among the Indians, the post might not be tenable.</p> + +<p><a name="XX4" id="XX4"></a>For some time matters went on smoothly: by +the indefatigable exertions of Mr. E. and his fellow-workers, +aided also by Mrs. E., who devoted much +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page282" id="page282"></a>[pg 282]</span> +of her time and labour to the instruction of the +females, a great reformation was effected in the +habits and morals of the Indians. But Mr. Evans +soon perceived that without books printed in the +Indian language, little permanent good would be +realized: he therefore wrote to the London Conference +to send him a printing press and types, +with characters of a simple phonetic kind, which +he himself had invented, and of which he gave +them a copy. The press was procured without +delay, but was detained in London by the +Governor and Committee; and though they were +again and again petitioned to forward it, they +flatly refused. Mr. E., however, was not a man +to be turned aside from his purpose. With his +characteristic energy he set to work, and having +invented an alphabet of a more simple kind, +he with his penknife cut the types, and formed +the letters from musket bullets; he constructed a +rude sort of press; and aided by Mrs. E. as +compositor, he at length succeeded in printing +prayers, and hymns, and passages of Scripture for +the use of the Indians. Finding their object in +detaining the press thus baffled, the Governor and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page283" id="page283"></a>[pg 283]</span> +Committee deemed it expedient to forward it; +but with the express stipulation, that every thing +printed should be sent to the commander of the +post as <i>censor</i>, before it was published among +the Indians. This was among the first causes of +distrust and dissatisfaction.</p> + +<p>Another source of dissatisfaction was Mr. E.'s +faithfulness in regard to the observance of the +sabbath. As the Indians became more enlightened +they ceased to hunt and fish, and even to carry +home game on the sabbath day; and, as a matter +of course, they would no longer work for the +Company on that day. But Mr. E. was guilty of +equal faithfulness in remonstrating with those +gentlemen in the service with whom he was on +terms of intimacy in regard to this point of the +Divine law; and several gentlemen, convinced by +his arguments, determined to cease from working +and travelling on the sabbath.</p> + +<p>One of them, Mr. C——l, while on a distant expedition, +acted in accordance with his convictions, +and rested on the sabbath. The voyage turned +out unusually stormy, and the water in the rivers +was low, so that it occupied several days longer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page284" id="page284"></a>[pg 284]</span> +than it had formerly done; and the loss of time, +which was really owing to the adverse weather, +was charged on his keeping of the sabbath. From +that day forth, the encouragement given to the +Missionaries began to be withdrawn; obstacles +were thrown in their way, and although nothing +was openly done to injure the Missions already +in operation, it would seem that it was determined +that, if the Company could prevent it, no new +stations should be occupied—at least by <i>Protestant</i> Missionaries.</p> + +<p><a name="XX5" id="XX5"></a>Not long after, Mr. E., finding that the Missions +he had hitherto superintended were in such +a state of progress that he might safely leave them +to the care of his fellow-labourers, resolved to +proceed to Athabasca and establish a mission +there. Having gone, as usual, to the Commander +of the post to obtain the necessary provisions, +and a canoe and boatmen, he was received with +unusual coldness. He asked provisions,—none +could be given; he offered to purchase them,—the +commander refused to sell him any. He +begged a canoe,—it was denied him; and finally, +when he intreated that, if he should be able to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page285" id="page285"></a>[pg 285]</span> +procure those necessaries elsewhere, he might at +least be allowed a couple of men to assist him on +the voyage, he was answered that none would be +allowed to go on that service. Deeply grieved, +but nothing daunted, Mr. E. procured those necessaries +from private resources, and proceeded on +his voyage. But a sad calamity put a stop to it; +in handing his gun to the interpreter it accidentally +went off, and the charge lodging in his breast +killed him instantaneously. He was thus compelled +to return, in a state of mind bordering on distraction.</p> + +<p>Mr. E.'s zeal and piety promised the best results +to the spiritual and eternal interests of his Indian +brethren. His talents, energy, and fertility of +resource, which seemed to rise with every obstacle, +had the happiest effects on their temporal well-being; +and his mild and winning manners greatly +endeared him to all the Indians. But his useful +and honourable career was drawing to a close. +The mournful accident already alluded to had +affected his health, and he now received his deathblow.</p> + +<p><a name="XX6" id="XX6"></a>Yet, obnoxious as he had become to the Company, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page286" id="page286"></a>[pg 286]</span> +and formidable to their interests as they +might deem one of his talents and indomitable +resolution to be, the blow was not struck by them. +It was dealt by a <i>false</i> brother; by one who had +eaten of his bread: by a "familiar friend, with +whom he had taken sweet counsel." Charges +affecting his character, both as a man and a minister, +of the foulest and blackest kind, were transmitted +to the Conference by a brother Missionary. +<a name="XX7" id="XX7"></a>To answer these charges, as false as they were +foul, he was compelled to leave the churches he +had planted and watered, to bid adieu to the +people whose salvation had been for years the +sole object of his life, and to undertake a voyage +of 5,000 miles to appear before his brethren as a +<i>criminal</i>. As a criminal, indeed, he was received; +yet after an investigation, begun and carried on in +no very friendly spirit to him, truth prevailed. +He was declared innocent, and the right hand of +fellowship was again extended to him. He made +a short tour through England, and was everywhere +received with respect, and affection, and sympathy.</p> + +<p><a name="XX8" id="XX8"></a>But anxiety, and grief, and shame had done +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page287" id="page287"></a>[pg 287]</span> +their work. Scarce three weeks had elapsed, +when, having spent the evening along with Mrs. E. +in the family of a friend, whose guest he was, +with some of his wonted cheerfulness, Mrs. E. +having retired but a few minutes, she was summoned +to the room where she had left him in time +to see him pass into that land where "the wicked +cease from troubling." The cause of his death +was an <i>affection of the heart</i>. And that man—the +slanderer—the murderer of this martyred Missionary—what +punishment was inflicted on him? +He is to this day unpunished! and yet lives in +the Hudson's Bay territory, the disgrace and opprobrium +of his profession and his church.</p> + +<p>Such are a few facts connected with the establishment +of the Wesleyan Mission in the Hudson's +Bay territory, and illustrative of the sort of +encouragement given by the Committee to Protestant +Missionaries. By way of rider to these, +I may just remind the reader that Roman Catholic +Missionaries have since been freely permitted to +plant churches wherever they pleased, even in +districts where Protestant Missions were already established.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page288" id="page288"></a>[pg 288]</span> + +<p>After all, this is not much to be wondered at, +since Sir G. Simpson openly avowed to Mr. Evans +his preference of Roman Catholic Missionaries; +one reason for this preference being, that these +never interfered with the Company's servants, nor +troubled them with any precise or puritanical +notions about the moral law.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page289" id="page289"></a>[pg 289]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.</h3> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XXI1">RED RIVER</a>—<a href="#XXI2">SOILS</a>—<a href="#XXI3">CLIMATE</a>—<a href="#XXI4">PRODUCTIONS</a>—<a href="#XXI5">SETTLEMENT +OF RED RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS</a>—<a href="#XXI6">COLLISION +BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY +COMPANIES</a>—<a href="#XXI7">INUNDATION</a>—<a href="#XXI8">ITS EFFECTS</a>—<a href="#XXI9">FRENCH +HALF-BREEDS</a>—<a href="#XXI10">BUFFALO-HUNTING</a>—<a href="#XXI11">ENGLISH +HALF-BREEDS</a>—<a href="#XXI12">INDIANS</a>—<a href="#XXI13">CHURCHES</a>—<a href="#XXI14">SCHOOLS</a>—<a href="#XXI15">STORES</a>—<a href="#XXI16">MARKET +FOR PRODUCE</a>—<a href="#XXI17">COMMUNICATION +BY LAKES.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XXI1" id="XXI1"></a>Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in +the distant plains of the south; and after receiving +a number of tributary streams that serve to +fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the +world possesses, discharges itself into the eastern +extremity of Lake Winnipeg in lat. 50°. <a name="XXI3" id="XXI3"></a>The +climate is much the same as in the midland districts +of Canada; the river is generally frozen +across about the beginning of November, and +open about the beginning of April. <a name="XXI2" id="XXI2"></a>The soil +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page290" id="page290"></a>[pg 290]</span> +along the banks of the river is of the richest +vegetable mould, and of so great a depth that +crops of wheat are produced for several years +without the application of manure. <a name="XXI4" id="XXI4"></a>The banks +produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the woods +extend rather more than a mile inland. The +farms of the first settlers are now nearly clear +of wood; an open plain succeeds of from four to +six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. +Woods and plains alternate afterwards until you +reach the boundless prairie. The woods produce +a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the eye +and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, +plums, gooseberries, currants, grapes, and +sasgatum berries in great abundance. Coal has +been discovered in several places, and also salt springs.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI5" id="XXI5"></a>Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted +with the natural advantages of this favoured +country by his North-West hosts in Montreal, +determined forthwith on adopting such measures +as might ensure to himself and heirs the possession +of it for ever. Accordingly, on his return to +England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page291" id="page291"></a>[pg 291]</span> +stock to an amount that enabled him to control +the decisions of the Committee; and thus, covered +by the shield of the charter, he could carry on +his premeditated schemes of aggression against +the North-West Company, with some appearance of justice on his side.</p> + +<p>With the view of carrying out these schemes, +he proceeded to the North of Scotland, and prevailed +on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to +Red River. To induce them to quit their native +land, the most flattering prospects were held out +to them; the moment they set their foot in this +land of promise, the hardships and privations to +which they had hitherto been subject, would +disappear; the poor man would exchange his +"potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman +would become a ruler and a judge in—Assineboine! +Who could doubt the fulfilment of the +promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, +soon collected the required number of +emigrants—for the Highlander of the present day +gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a +country that no longer affords him bread.</p> + +<p>At the period in question, Red River district +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page292" id="page292"></a>[pg 292]</span> +furnished the principal part of the provisions +required by the North-West Company, and was +a wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, +and abounding in the larger animals—elk and +rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the plains.</p> + +<p>As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which +discharges itself by Neilson's river into Hudson's +Bay, and could therefore be included within the +territory granted by the charter, our noble trader +concluded that, by taking formal possession of +the country, he would obtain the right of expelling +other adventurers, merely by warning them +off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning +were disregarded, he could claim the aid of +Government to enforce his rights, and thus ruin +the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's +Governor was therefore instructed to issue +a proclamation, prohibiting the North-West Company +by name, and all others, from carrying +on any species of trade within Red River district, +and ordering such establishments as had been formed to be abandoned.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI6" id="XXI6"></a>The North-Westers read the proclamation, and—prosecuted +their business as before. In such +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page293" id="page293"></a>[pg 293]</span> +circumstances quarrels were unavoidable, but they +were generally settled with <i>ink</i>; a collision ultimately +took place that led to the shedding of +blood. The North-Westers had collected a large +supply of provisions at their dépôt, and were +about to forward it to the place of embarkation, +when they were informed—falsely, as it afterwards +appeared,—that the Governor intended +to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, +equally false, was brought to the Governor, that +the North-Westers had assembled a strong force +of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying +rumours led to an unhappy catastrophe.</p> + +<p>The Governor sent out scouts to watch the +North-West party; and ascertaining that they +were on their march with an unusual force,—which +they had brought in order to repel the +attack which they supposed was to be made upon +them,—he seized his arms, and marched with his +whole party to meet them. The North-Westers +seeing them approach, halted, and standing to their +arms, sent forward one of their number to demand +whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace or war.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page294" id="page294"></a>[pg 294]</span> + +<p>During the interview a shot was fired—it is +a matter in dispute to this day who fired it—the +half-breeds immediately poured a volley into +the ranks of their opponents, and brought down +nearly all the gentlemen of the party, including +the unfortunate Governor; the remainder fled to +the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe +entered together. Thus the poor settlers found +themselves suddenly surrounded by all the horrors +of war; their anticipated paradise converted into +a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; +their little property pillaged, and their persons +in the power of their enemies.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI7" id="XXI7"></a>An arrangement, however, was entered into by +the rival Companies, that allowed the emigrants +to take possession of the lands allotted to them, +and in the course of a few years their labour had +made a sensible impression on the forest. Cattle +were sent out from England; pigs and poultry +followed, and honest Donald was beginning to +find himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams +of future wealth and happiness vanished in a +moment. Red River overflowed its banks, and +inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page295" id="page295"></a>[pg 295]</span> +flood caused immense loss; it overthrew +houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly ruined +the crops of the season. <a name="XXI8" id="XXI8"></a>The buffaloes, however, +proved abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions +enough to prevent starvation, and the +settlers soon recovered from the effects of this +misfortune. Another calamity followed—the caterpillar +appeared—at first in small numbers, +afterwards in myriads, covering the whole land, +and eating up "every green thing," and thus the +crops were destroyed a second time; but the +consequences were not so severely felt as formerly; +the preceding season had proved extremely +abundant, and a sufficient quantity remained to +supply the failure of this year. Since that time +the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed +peace; industry has its sure reward in the +abundance of all the necessaries of life which it procures.</p> + +<p>Since the coalition took place, Red River has +become the favourite retreat of the Company's +servants, especially of those who have families; +here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. +A lot of one mile in length and six chains in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page296" id="page296"></a>[pg 296]</span> +breadth, costs only 18<i>l.</i>; and they find themselves +surrounded by people of congenial habits with +themselves, the companions of their youth, and +fellow-adventurers; those with whom they tugged +at the oar, and shared the toil of the winter march; +and when they meet together to smoke the social +pipe, and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor +prince nor prelate" can enjoy more happiness.</p> + +<p>The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population +at 5,000 souls; it may now (1845) amount +to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion +is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps +300 souls. The Scotch carried with them the +frugal and industrious habits of their country; +the same qualities characterise their children, +who are far in advance of their neighbours in all +that constitutes the comforts of life. These +advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, +to their own good management; yet, +notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding that +they are a quiet and a moral people, they are +objects of envy and hatred to their hybrid neighbours; +and thus my industrious and worthy +countrymen, in the possession of almost every +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page297" id="page297"></a>[pg 297]</span> +other blessing which they could desire, are still +unhappy from the malice and ill-will they meet +with on every side; and being so inferior in +numbers, they must submit to the insults and +abuse they are daily exposed to, while the blood +boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, +many of them have abandoned the settlement and +gone to the United States, where they enjoy the +fruits of their industry in peace.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI9" id="XXI9"></a>The French half-breeds and retired Canadian +voyageurs occupy the upper part of the settlement. +The half-breeds are strongly attached to +the roving life of the hunter; the greater part of +them depend entirely on the chase for a living, +and even the few who attend to farming take a +trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and +marrow fat. They sow their little patches of +ground early in spring, and then set out for the +chase, taking wives and children along with them, +and leaving only the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI10" id="XXI10"></a>When they set out for the plains, they observe +all the order and regularity of a military march; +officers being chosen for the enforcement of discipline, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page298" id="page298"></a>[pg 298]</span> +who are subject to the orders of a chief, +whom they style "M. le Commandant." They +take their departure from the settlement about +the latter end of June, to the number of from +1,200 to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at +least six carts, and some twelve; the whole +number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his +riding nag and cart horses, he has also at least +one buffalo runner, which he never mounts until +he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" +is tended with all the care which the cavalier of +old bestowed on his war steed; his housing and +trappings are garnished with beads and porcupine +quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's +wife or belle can exercise; while head and tail +display all the colours of the rainbow in the +variety of ribbon attached to them.</p> + +<p>The "Commandant" directs the movements of +the whole cavalcade: at a signal given in the +morning by sound of trumpet—<i>alias</i>, by blowing a +horn,—the hunters start together for their horses; +while the women and servants strike the tents, +and pack up and load the baggage. The horses +being all collected, a second blast forms the order +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page299" id="page299"></a>[pg 299]</span> +of march; the carts fall in, four abreast; the +hunters mount; and dividing into their different +bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes +the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The +third blast is the signal for marching. They halt +about two hours at noon, for the purpose of +allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same +order is observed as in starting in the morning. +When they encamp at night, the carts are placed +in a circle; and the tents are pitched within the +enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the +horses are "hobbled" and turned loose to graze.</p> + +<p>All the arrangements for the night being completed, +guards are appointed to watch over the +safety of the camp, who are relieved at fixed +hours. In this manner they proceed until they +approach the buffalo grounds, when scouts are +sent out to ascertain the spot where the herd may +be found. The joyful discovery being made, the +scouts apprise the main body by galloping backwards +and forwards, when a halt is immediately +ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters +mount their runners; and the whole being formed +into an extended line, with the utmost regularity, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page300" id="page300"></a>[pg 300]</span> +they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul +advances an inch in front of the line, until within +gun-shot of the herd, when they rein up for a +moment. The whole body then, as if with one +voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd +at full gallop; each hunter, singling out an animal, +pursues it until he finds an opportunity of taking +sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some +article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards +recognised. The hunter immediately sets off in +chase of another, priming, loading, and taking aim +at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently +secures ten buffaloes at a "course;" from +four to eight is the usual number. He who draws +the first blood claims the animal, and each individual +hunter is allowed whatever he kills.</p> + +<p>The moment the firing commences, the women +set out with the carts, and cut up and convey the +meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of +bones and fat. Two or three days are required +for the operation, when they set out again; and +the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient quantity +to load all the carts, each carrying about one +thousand pounds,—an enormous quantity in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page301" id="page301"></a>[pg 301]</span> +aggregate; yet the herd is sometimes so numerous +that all this slaughter does not seem to diminish it.</p> + +<p>The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, +and some of the dangers, of the battle-field. +The horses are often gored by the infuriated bulls, +to the great peril—sometimes to the loss—of +the rider's life; serious accidents too happen from +falls. There are no better horsemen in the world +than the Red River "brulés;" and so long as the +horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. +The falls are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes +the badger digs all over the prairies; if the horse +plunges into one of these, both horse and man roll +on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally +happen from gun shots in the <i>melée</i>; and it is said, +I know not with what truth, that a wronged +husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails +himself of the opportunity presented by the <i>melée</i> +to miss the buffalo, and hit a friend—by <i>accident</i>.</p> + +<p>A priest generally accompanies the camp, and +mass is celebrated with becoming solemnity on Sundays. +The "brulés" attend, looking very serious +and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when +the cry of "La vache! la vache!" scatters the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page302" id="page302"></a>[pg 302]</span> +congregation in an instant; away they scamper, +old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the +winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. +Two trips in the year are generally made to the +prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo +hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage +than of the civilized man; it is a life of alternate +plenty and want—a life also of danger and inquietude. +The Indians of the plain view the +encroachment of the strange race on their hunting +grounds, with feelings of jealousy and enmity. +They are, accordingly, continually on the alert; +they attack detached parties and stragglers; they +also set fire to the prairies about the time the +"brulés" set out for the hunt, and by this means +drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to +this circumstance, the "brulés" have returned +with empty carts for these two years past; and +their only resource has been to betake themselves +to the woods, and live after the manner of the +Indians. Could they find a sure market for the +produce of the soil, so as to remunerate their +labour, there can be little doubt but that they +might be gradually detached from the half-savage +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page303" id="page303"></a>[pg 303]</span> +life they lead, and become as steady and industrious as their neighbours.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI11" id="XXI11"></a>The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny +of the British are designated, possess many of +the characteristics of their fathers; they generally +prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to +the chase, and follow close on the heels of the +Scotch in the path of industry and moral rectitude. +Very few of them resort to the plains, +unless for the purpose of trafficking the produce +of their farms for the produce of the chase; and +it is said that they frequently return home better +supplied with meat than the hunters themselves.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI12" id="XXI12"></a>The Indians who have been converted to the +Protestant religion, are settled around their +respected pastor at the lower extremity of the +settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth +of the river. The Sauteux, of all other tribes, +are the most tenacious of their own superstitions; +and it would require all the zeal and +patience and perseverance of the primitive teachers +of Christianity to wean them from them. But +when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert +is the more steadfast in his faith; and his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page304" id="page304"></a>[pg 304]</span> +steadfastness and sincerity prove an ample reward +to his spiritual father for his pains and anxiety on his behalf.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI13" id="XXI13"></a>The Indian converts are entirely guided by +their Missionary in temporal as well as in spiritual +things. When he first came among them, he found +their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that +something more than advice was necessary to +produce the desired change. Like Oberlin, therefore, +he set before them the example of a laborious +and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, +he planted, he reaped with his own hands, and +afterwards shared his produce with them. By +persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining +them to his views; and, at the present +moment, their settlement is in as forward a state +of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements.</p> + +<p>They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; +their horses, and cattle, and well-cultivated +fields:—a happy change! A few years +ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond +race; "hewers of wood and drawers of water" +for the other settlers, as their pagan brethren +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page305" id="page305"></a>[pg 305]</span> +still are; they wandered about from house to +house, half-starved, and half-naked; and even in +this state of abject misery, preferring a glass of +"fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves or their children.</p> + +<p>There are at present three ministers of the +episcopal communion at Red River. The Scotch +inhabitants attend the church regularly, although +they sigh after the form of worship to which they +had been accustomed in early youth; they, however, +assemble afterwards in their own houses +to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the +manner of their fathers. There are also three +Roman Catholic clergymen, including a bishop;—good, +exemplary men, whose "constant care" +is not "to increase their store," but to guide and +direct their flocks in the paths of piety and virtue. +But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people to deal +with;—the French half-breed, who follows the +hunter's life, possesses all the worst vices of his +European and Indian progenitors, and is indifferent +alike to the laws of God and man. There are, +in all, seven places of worship, three Roman +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page306" id="page306"></a>[pg 306]</span> +Catholic, and four Protestant, including two for the Indians.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI14" id="XXI14"></a>The education of the more respectable families, +particularly those of the Company's officers, is +well provided for at an institution of great merit; +the gentleman who presides over it being every +way qualified for the important trust. The different +branches of mathematical and classical +learning are taught in it; and the school has +already produced some excellent scholars. In +addition to the more useful branches of female +education, the young ladies are taught music and +drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. +Thus we have, in the midst of this remote wilderness +of the North-West, all the elements of civilized +life; and there are there many young persons +of both sexes, well educated and accomplished, +who have never seen the civilized world. There +are also thirteen schools for the children of the +lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI15" id="XXI15"></a>The Company have here two shops (or stores), +well supplied with every description of goods the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page307" id="page307"></a>[pg 307]</span> +inhabitants can require; there are besides several +merchants scattered through the settlement, some +of whom are said to be in easy circumstances. +The Company's bills constitute the circulating +medium, and are issued for the value of from +one to twenty shillings. Of late years, a considerable +amount of American specie has found +its way into the settlement, probably in exchange +for furs clandestinely disposed of by the merchants +beyond the line. The petty merchants +import their goods from England by the Company's +ships; an <i>ad valorem</i> duty is imposed +on these goods, the proceeds of which are +applied to the payment of the constabulary +force of the colony. The Company's charter +invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive +and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor +and Council enact such simple statutes as the +primitive condition of the settlement requires; +and those enactments have hitherto proved equal +to the maintenance of good order. A court of +quarter sessions is regularly held for the administration +of justice, and the Company have lately +appointed a Recorder to preside over it. It is +gratifying to learn, that this functionary has had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page308" id="page308"></a>[pg 308]</span> +occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious +crime since his appointment.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI16" id="XXI16"></a>In the work to which I have so frequently +referred, it is mentioned, that a "certain market +is secured to the inhabitants by the demand for +provisions for the other settlements." If by +"settlements" the miserable trading posts be +meant, as it must be, I know not on what +grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure +market, forsooth! A single Scotch farmer could +be found in the colony, able alone to supply the +greater part of the produce the Company require; +there is one, in fact, who offered to do it. If a +sure market were secured to the colonists of Red +River, they would speedily become the wealthiest +yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries +are always full to overflowing; so abundant +are the crops, that many of the farmers could +subsist for a period of two or even three years, +without putting a grain of seed in the ground. +The Company purchase from six to eight bushels +of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three +shillings per bushel; and the sum total of their +yearly purchases from the whole settlement amounts to—</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page309" id="page309"></a>[pg 309]</span> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>600 cwt. flour, first and second quality.</p> +<p>35 bushels rough barley.</p> +<p>10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each.</p> +<p>10 bushels Indian corn.</p> +<p>200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour.</p> +<p>60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each.</p> +<p>240 lbs. cheese.</p> +<p>60 hams.</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>Thus it happens that the Red River farmer +finds a "sure market" for six or eight bushels +of wheat—and no more. Where he finds a sure +market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven +only knows—I do not. This much, however, +I do know,—that the incomparable advantages +this delightful country possesses are not only in a +great measure lost to the inhabitants, but also to +the world, so long as it remains under the domination +of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession +of, and subject to the immediate jurisdiction of +the Crown, Assineboine would become a great +and a flourishing colony—the centre of civilization +and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, +who would be converted from hostile barbarians +into a civilized and loyal people;—and thus Great +Britain would extend and establish her dominion +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page310" id="page310"></a>[pg 310]</span> +in a portion of her empire that may be said to +have been hitherto unknown to her, while she +would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of her sons.</p> + +<p><a name="XXI17" id="XXI17"></a>In describing the advantages of this country, +candour requires that I should also point out its +disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the +difficulty of the communication with the sea, +interrupted as it is by shoals, rapids, and falls, +which in their present state can only be surmounted +with incredible toil and labour. Yet +there cannot be a doubt that the skill of the +engineer could effect such improvements as would +obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, +and that at no very great cost. The distance +from the mouth of Red River to York Factory +is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is +formed of lakes—(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in +length, is navigable for vessels of forty and fifty +tons burden). The greater part of the river +communication might be rendered passable by +Durham boats, merely by damming up the rivers. +Along the line of communication, many situations +may be found suitable for farming operations.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page311" id="page311"></a>[pg 311]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p> +<a href="#XXII1">SIR G. SIMPSON</a>—<a href="#XXII2">HIS ADMINISTRATION.</a> +</p></blockquote> + + +<p><a name="XXII1" id="XXII1"></a>Sir George Simpson commenced his career as +a clerk in a respectable counting-house in London, +where his talents soon advanced him to the first +seat at the desk. He was in this situation when +first introduced to the notice of a member of +the Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, +who were at that time engaged in the ruinous +competition with the North-West Company +already referred to. While the contest was at its +height, the Company sent out Mr. Simpson as +Governor of the Northern department;—an appointment +for which, by his abilities natural and +acquired, he was well qualified. Mr. Simpson +combined with the prepossessing manners of a +gentleman all the craft and subtlety of an intriguing +courtier; while his cold and callous heart +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page312" id="page312"></a>[pg 312]</span> +was incapable of sympathising with the woes and +pains of his fellow-men. On his first arrival, he +carefully concealed from those whom he was +about to supersede, the powers with which he +was invested; he studied the characters of individuals, +scrutinized in secret their mode of managing +affairs, and when he had made himself +fully acquainted with every particular he desired +to know, he produced his commission;—a circumstance +that proved as unexpected as it was unsatisfactory +to those whose interests it affected.</p> + +<p><a name="XXII2" id="XXII2"></a>Making every allowance for Sir George's abilities, +he is evidently one of those men whom the +blind goddess "delighteth to honour." Soon +after assuming the supreme command, the North-West +wintering partners undertook the mission to +England, already mentioned, which led to the +coalition; and thus Sir George found himself, by +a concurrence of circumstances quite independent +of his merits, placed at the head of both parties; +from being Governor of Rupert's Land his jurisdiction +now included the whole of the Indian +territory from Hudson's Bay to the shores of the +Pacific Ocean; and the Southern department, at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page313" id="page313"></a>[pg 313]</span> +that time a separate command, was soon after +added to his government. Here, then, was a +field worthy of his talents; and that he did every +manner of justice to it, no one can deny. Yet he +owes much of his success to the valuable assistance +rendered him by Mr. McTavish; at his +suggestion, the whole business was re-organized, a +thousand abuses in the management of affairs +were reformed, and a strict system of economy +was introduced where formerly boundless extravagance +prevailed. To effect these salutary measures, +however, much tact was required: and here +Sir George's abilities shone conspicuous. The +long-continued strife between the two companies +had engendered feelings of envy and animosity, +which could not subside in a day; and the steps +that had been taken to bring about the coalition, +created much ill-will even among the North-West +partners themselves. Nor were the officers of the +Hudson's Bay Company without their dissensions +also. To harmonize these elements of discord, to +reconcile the different parties thus brought so +suddenly and unexpectedly together into one fold, +was a task of the utmost difficulty to accomplish; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page314" id="page314"></a>[pg 314]</span> +but Sir George was equal to it. He soon discovered +that the North-West partners possessed +both the will and the ability to thwart and defeat +such of his plans as were not satisfactory to +themselves; that they were by far the most +numerous in the Council—at that time an independent +body—and the best acquainted with the +trade of the Northern department, the most +important in the territory; and finding, after +some experience, that while those gentlemen +continued united, their power was beyond his +control, and that to resist them openly would +only bring ruin on himself, without any benefit to +the concern, he prudently gave way to their influence; +and instead of forcing himself against +the stream, allowed himself apparently to be carried along with it.</p> + +<p>For a time, he seemed to promote all the views +of his late adversaries; he yielded a ready and +gracious acquiescence in their wishes; he lavished +his bows, and smiles, and honied words on them +all; and played his part so well, that the North-Westers +thought they had actually gained him +over to their own side; while the gentlemen of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page315" id="page315"></a>[pg 315]</span> +Hudson's Bay Company branded him as a traitor, +who had abandoned his own party and gone over to the enemy.</p> + +<p>The Committee received several hints of the +Governor's "strange management," but they only +smiled at the insinuations, as they perfectly understood +the policy. His well-digested schemes had, +in due time, all the success he anticipated.</p> + +<p>Having thus completely gained the confidence +of the North-West partners, his policy began +gradually to unfold itself. One obstreperous +North-Wester was sent to the Columbia; another +to the Montreal department, where "their able +services could not be dispensed with;" and thus +in the course of a few years he got rid of all +those refractory spirits who dared to tell him their minds.</p> + +<p>The North-West nonconformists being in this +manner disposed of, Sir George deemed it no +longer necessary to wear the mask. His old +friends of the Hudson's Bay, or "sky-blue" party, +were gradually received into favour; his power +daily gained the ascendant, and at this moment +Sir George Simpson's rule is more absolute than +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page316" id="page316"></a>[pg 316]</span> +that of any governor under the British crown, as +his influence with the Committee enables him to +carry into effect any measure he may recommend. +That one possessed of an authority so unbounded +should often abuse his power is not to be wondered +at; and that the abuse of power thus tolerated +should degenerate into tyranny is but the +natural consequence of human weakness and depravity. +The question is—Is it consistent with +prudence to allow an <i>individual</i> to assume and +retain such power? Most of the Company's +officers enter the service while yet very young; +none are so young, however, as not to be aware of +the privileges to which they are entitled as British +subjects, and that they have a right to enjoy those +privileges while they tread on British soil. The +oft repeated acts of tyranny of which the autocrat +of "all Prince Rupert's Land and its dependencies" +has lately been guilty, have accordingly +created a feeling of discontent which, if it could +be freely expressed, would be heard from the +shores of the Pacific to Labrador.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, the Company's servants are so +situated, that they dare not express their sentiments +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page317" id="page317"></a>[pg 317]</span> +freely. The clerk knows that if he is heard +to utter a word of disapprobation, it is carried to +the ears of his sovereign lord, and his prospects +of advancement are marred for ever; he therefore +submits to his grievances in silence. The chief +trader has probably a large family to support, has +been thirty or forty years in the service, and is +daily looking forward to the other step: he too is +silent. The chief factor has a situation of importance +in which his vanity is gratified and his +comfort secured; to express his opinion freely +might risk the sacrifice of some of these advantages; +so he also swallows the pill without daring +to complain of its bitterness, and is silent.</p> + +<p>A very valuable piece of plate was, some years +ago, presented to Sir George by the commissioned +gentlemen in the service, as a mark of respect and +esteem; and this circumstance may be adduced by +Sir George's friends, with every appearance of +reason, as a proof of his popularity; but the +matter is easily explained. Some two or three +persons who share Sir George's favour, determine +among themselves to present him with some +token of their gratitude. They address a circular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page318" id="page318"></a>[pg 318]</span> +on the subject to all the Company's officers, well +knowing that none dare refuse in the face of the +whole country to subscribe their name. The +same cogent reasons that suppress the utterance +of discontent compelled the Company's servants +to subscribe to this testimonial; and the subscription +list accordingly exhibits, with few exceptions, +the names of every commissioned gentleman in +the service; while two-thirds of them would much +rather have withheld their signatures.</p> + +<p>Sir George owes his ribbon to the successful +issue of the Arctic expedition conducted by +Messrs. Dease and Simpson. His share of the +merit consisted in drawing out instructions for +those gentlemen, which occupied about half-an-hour +of his time at the desk. It is quite certain +that the expedition owed none of its success to +those instructions. The chief of the party, Mr. +Dease, was at least as well qualified to give as to +receive instructions; and Sir George is well +aware of the fact. He knows, too, that Mr. Dease +was engaged in the Arctic expedition under Sir +J. Franklin, where he acquired that experience +which brought this important yet hazardous +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page319" id="page319"></a>[pg 319]</span> +undertaking to a successful issue; he knows also +that in an enterprise of this kind a thousand contingencies +may arise, which must be left entirely +to the judgment of those engaged in it to provide against.</p> + +<p>Sir George, nevertheless, obtained the chief +honours; but the bauble perishes with him; while +the courage, the energy and the perseverance of +Mr. Dease and his colleague will ever be a subject +of admiration to those who peruse the narrative of their adventures.</p> + +<p>Sir George's administration, it is granted, has +been a successful one; yet his own friends will +admit that much of this success must be ascribed +to his good fortune rather than to his talents. +The North-West Company had previously reduced +the business to a perfect system, which he had +only to follow. It is true he introduced great +economy into every department; but the North-West +Company had done so before him, and the +wasteful extravagance which preceded his appointment +was entirely the result of the rivalry between +the two companies, and under any governor +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page320" id="page320"></a>[pg 320]</span> +whatever would have ceased when the coalition was effected.</p> + +<p>Not a little, too, of Sir George's economy was +of "the penny-wise and pound-foolish" kind. +Thus it has been already observed, that the lives +of the Company's servants, and the property of +an entire district, were placed in extreme jeopardy +by his false economy; and a contingency, which +no prudent man would have calculated upon, alone +prevented a catastrophe which involved the destruction +of the Company's property to a large +amount, as well as of the lives of its servants. +But independently of this, he has committed +several errors of a most serious kind. Of these +the chief is the Ungava adventure, an enterprise +which was begun in opposition to the opinion of +every gentleman in the country whose experience +enabled him to form a correct judgment in the +matter; and this undertaking was persisted in, +year after year, at an enormous loss to the +Company. Finally, he has not even the merit of +correcting his own blunders. It was not till after +a mass of evidence of the strongest kind was laid +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page321" id="page321"></a>[pg 321]</span> +before the Committee, that they, in his absence, +gave orders for the abandonment of the hopeless project.</p> + +<p>His caprice, his favouritism, his disregard of +merit in granting promotion, it will be allowed, +could not have a favourable effect on the Company's +interests. His want of feeling has been +mentioned: a single example of this will close +these remarks. A gentleman of high rank in the +service, whose wife was dangerously ill, received +orders to proceed on a journey of nearly 5,000 +miles. Aware that his duty required a prompt +obedience to these orders, he set off, taking her +along with him. On arriving at the end of the +first stage, she became worse; and medical assistance +being procured, the physicians were of +opinion that in all probability death would be the +consequence if he continued his journey. A certificate +to this effect was forwarded to Sir George. +The answer was, that Madame's health must not +interfere with the Company's service; and that he +must continue his journey, or abide the consequences.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this delay, he only reached +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page322" id="page322"></a>[pg 322]</span> +Montreal on the day when the boats were to leave +Lachine for the interior. He hurried to the +office, where he met Sir George, and was received +by him with the cool remark—</p> + +<p>"You are late, Sir; but if you use expedition +you may yet be in time for the boats."</p> + +<p>He earnestly begged for some delay, but in +vain. No regard was paid to his entreaties; and +he was obliged to hurry his wife off to Lachine, +and put her on board a common canoe, where +there is no accommodation for a sick person, and +where no assistance could be procured, even in the last extremity.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page323" id="page323"></a>[pg 323]</span> + + + + +<h2><a name="vocabulary" id="vocabulary"></a>VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS IN USE AMONG +THE TRIBES IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.</h2> + + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td class="bbox"> <span class="sc">English</span>. </td><td class="bbrt"> <span class="sc">Sauteu</span>, or <span class="sc">Ogibois</span>. </td><td class="bbrt"> <span class="sc">Cree</span>.</td><td class="bbrt"> <span class="sc">Beaver Indian</span>.</td><td class="bbrt"> <span class="sc">Chippewayan</span>.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> One </td><td class="br"> Pejik </td><td class="br"> Pay ak </td><td class="br"> It la day </td><td class="br"> Ittla hē </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Two </td><td class="br"> Neesh </td><td class="br"> Neesho </td><td class="br"> Onk shay day </td><td class="br"> Nank hay </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Three </td><td class="br"> Nisway </td><td class="br"> Nisto </td><td class="br"> Ta day </td><td class="br"> Ta he </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Four </td><td class="br"> Neowin </td><td class="br"> Neo </td><td class="br"> Dini day </td><td class="br"> Dunk he </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Five </td><td class="br"> Nā nan </td><td class="br"> Nay nā nan </td><td class="br"> Tlat zoon e de ay </td><td class="br"> Sa soot la he </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Six </td><td class="br"> Ni got as way </td><td class="br"> Nigotwassik </td><td class="br"> Int zud ha </td><td class="br"> L'goot ha hé </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Seven </td><td class="br"> Nish was way </td><td class="br"> Tay pa goop </td><td class="br"> Ta e wayt zay </td><td class="br"> Tluz ud dunk he </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Eight </td><td class="br"> Shwas way </td><td class="br"> Ea naneo </td><td class="br"> Etzud een tay </td><td class="br"> L'goot dung he </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Nine </td><td class="br"> Sang </td><td class="br"> Kay gat me tā tat </td><td class="br"> Kala gay ne ad ay </td><td class="br"> Itla ud ha </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ten </td><td class="br"> Quaitch </td><td class="br"> Me ta tat </td><td class="br"> Kay nay day </td><td class="br"> Hona </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Eleven </td><td class="br"> Aji pay jik </td><td class="br"> Payak ai wak </td><td class="br"> Tlad ay may day </td><td class="br"> Itla, ja idel </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Twelve </td><td class="br"> Aji neesh </td><td class="br"> Neesh way ai wok </td><td class="br"> Ong shay day may day </td><td class="br"> Nank hay, ja idel </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Twenty </td><td class="br"> Neej ta na </td><td class="br"> Neesh tan ao </td><td class="br"> Ong ka gay nay day </td><td class="br"> Ta he, ja idel </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thirty </td><td class="br"> Nisway mittana </td><td class="br"> Neo meatanao </td><td class="br"> Tao gay nay day </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Forty </td><td class="br"> Neo mittana </td><td class="br"> &c. </td><td class="br"> Deo gay nay day </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Fifty </td><td class="br"> Nanan mittana </td><td class="br"> &c. </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Sixty </td><td class="br"> Nigot asway mittana </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Seventy </td><td class="br"> Nish was way mittana </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Eighty </td><td class="br"> Shwas way mittana </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ninety </td><td class="br"> Sang mittana </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td><td class="br"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> One hundred </td><td class="br"> Ni goot wack </td><td class="br"> Me ta tin mittanao </td><td class="br"> Kay nay tay </td><td class="br"> Itla honan nanana. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> How often </td><td class="br"> Anin. tas ink </td><td class="br"> Tan mat ta to </td><td class="br"> Tan ay tien </td><td class="br"> Itla hon eeltay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> How many </td><td class="br"> Anin ain tas ink </td><td class="br"> Tan ay ta tik </td><td class="br"> Tan ay tien </td><td class="br"> Itla elday. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> How long since </td><td class="br"> Anapé apin aijo </td><td class="br"> Ta ispi aspin </td><td class="br"> A shay doo yay </td><td class="br"> Itla hon il tao. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> When </td><td class="br"> Anapé </td><td class="br"> Ta is pi </td><td class="br"> Dee ad doo yay </td><td class="br"> Itlao. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> To-day </td><td class="br"> Nongum. kajigack </td><td class="br"> Anootch kee je gak </td><td class="br"> Doo jay nee ay </td><td class="br"> Deerd sin o gay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> To-morrow </td><td class="br"> Wabunk </td><td class="br"> Wa bakay </td><td class="br"> Ghad ay zay </td><td class="br"> Campay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Yesterday </td><td class="br"> Chenāngo </td><td class="br"> Ta goosh ick </td><td class="br"> Ghagh ganno </td><td class="br"> Hozud singay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> This year </td><td class="br"> Nongum egee wang </td><td class="br"> Anootch egee kee wang </td><td class="br"> Doo la </td><td class="br"> Do uz sin e gay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> This month </td><td class="br"> Wà á. Keēsis </td><td class="br"> Awa pee shum </td><td class="br"> Teeay tee za </td><td class="br"> Dirius a gay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> A man </td><td class="br"> Ininé </td><td class="br"> Nā bay o </td><td class="br"> Taz eu </td><td class="br"> Dinnay you. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> A woman </td><td class="br"> Ikway </td><td class="br"> Isk way o </td><td class="br"> Iay quay </td><td class="br"> Tzay quay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> A girl </td><td class="br"> Ikway says </td><td class="br"> Isk way shish </td><td class="br"> Id az oo </td><td class="br"> Ed dinna gay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> A boy </td><td class="br"> Quee we says </td><td class="br"> Na bay shish </td><td class="br"> Taz yuz é </td><td class="br"> Dinnay yoo azay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Interpreter </td><td class="br"> Oten way ta ma gay </td><td class="br"> On tway ta ma gay o </td><td class="br"> Nao day ay </td><td class="br"> Dinnay tee ghaltay.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Trader </td><td class="br"> Ata way ini niu </td><td class="br"> Ataway ininiu </td><td class="br"> Meeoo tay </td><td class="br"> Ma kad ray. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Moose-Deer </td><td class="br"> Moze </td><td class="br"> Mozwa </td><td class="br"> Tlay tchin tay </td><td class="br"> Tunnehee hee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Rein-Deer </td><td class="br"> Attick </td><td class="br"> Attick </td><td class="br"> May tzee </td><td class="br"> Ed hun. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Beaver </td><td class="br"> Amick </td><td class="br"> Amisk </td><td class="br"> Tza </td><td class="br"> Tza. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Dog </td><td class="br"> Ani moosh </td><td class="br"> Attim </td><td class="br"> Tlee </td><td class="br"> Tlee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Rabbit </td><td class="br"> Waboose </td><td class="br"> Waboose </td><td class="br"> Kagh </td><td class="br"> Kagh. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Bear </td><td class="br"> Maqua </td><td class="br"> Masqua </td><td class="br"> Zus </td><td class="br"> Zus. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Wolf </td><td class="br"> Ma ing an </td><td class="br"> Mahigan </td><td class="br"> Tshee o nay </td><td class="br"> Noo nee yay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Fox </td><td class="br"> Wa goosh </td><td class="br"> Ma kay shish </td><td class="br"> E. yay thay </td><td class="br"> Nag hee dthay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I hunt </td><td class="br"> Ni ge oz ay </td><td class="br"> Ni mā tchin </td><td class="br"> Na o zed </td><td class="br"> Naz uz ay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou huntest </td><td class="br"> Ki ge oz ay </td><td class="br"> Ki ma tchin </td><td class="br"> Nodzed </td><td class="br"> Nan ul zay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He hunts </td><td class="br"> Ge oz ay </td><td class="br"> Ma tchio </td><td class="br"> Nazin zed </td><td class="br"> Nal zay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We hunt </td><td class="br"> Ni ge oz ay min </td><td class="br"> Ni ma tchinan </td><td class="br"> Naze zedeo </td><td class="br"> Na il zay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye hunt </td><td class="br"> Ki ge oz aim </td><td class="br"> Ki ma tchinawao </td><td class="br"> Nazin zedeo </td><td class="br"> Nal zin al day. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They hunt </td><td class="br"> Ge oz ay wok </td><td class="br"> Matchiwog </td><td class="br"> Owadié tzed </td><td class="br"> Na hal zay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I kill </td><td class="br"> Ni ne ta gay </td><td class="br"> Ni mi na hon </td><td class="br"> Uz éay gha </td><td class="br"> Zil tir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou killest </td><td class="br"> Ki ne ta gay </td><td class="br"> Ki mi na hon </td><td class="br"> Uz éay ghan </td><td class="br"> Zil nil tir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He kills </td><td class="br"> Ne ta gay </td><td class="br"> Minaho </td><td class="br"> Ud zeay gha </td><td class="br"> Tla in il tir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We kill </td><td class="br"> Ni ne ta gay min </td><td class="br"> Ni mina honan </td><td class="br"> Uz ugho-ghay uzin </td><td class="br"> Tla in il dir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye kill </td><td class="br"> Ki ne ta gaim </td><td class="br"> Kim in a honawa </td><td class="br"> Uz ugho ghay uzin </td><td class="br"> Zee ool dir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They kill </td><td class="br"> Ne ta gay wok </td><td class="br"> Minahowog </td><td class="br"> Utza ghay agho </td><td class="br"> Tla in il tay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I laugh </td><td class="br"> Ni baap </td><td class="br"> Ni baap in </td><td class="br"> Utzay rad lotsh </td><td class="br"> Naz-lo. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou laughest </td><td class="br"> Ki baap </td><td class="br"> Ki baap in </td><td class="br"> Utlint lotsh </td><td class="br"> Na-id-lo. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He laughs </td><td class="br"> Baapé </td><td class="br"> Baapio </td><td class="br"> Utroz lotsh </td><td class="br"> Nad-lo. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We laugh </td><td class="br"> Ni baap imin </td><td class="br"> Ni baap in an </td><td class="br"> Utlo wod lotshay </td><td class="br"> Tlo a-ee-el-tee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye laugh </td><td class="br"> Ki baapim </td><td class="br"> Ki baapin a wao </td><td class="br"> Tlodzud udzee </td><td class="br"> Tlo gha ee-ol-tee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They laugh </td><td class="br"> Baap ewog </td><td class="br"> Baapiwog </td><td class="br"> Tlodzud udzee </td><td class="br"> Tlo-gha-ee-el-tee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I trade </td><td class="br"> Ni da ta way </td><td class="br"> Ni da dā wan </td><td class="br"> Mata oz lay </td><td class="br"> Naz nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou tradest </td><td class="br"> Ki da ta way </td><td class="br"> Ki da dā wan </td><td class="br"> Mata an eelay </td><td class="br"> Na el nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He trades </td><td class="br"> Ataway </td><td class="br"> Atawayo </td><td class="br"> Kita od eenla </td><td class="br"> Na el nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We trade </td><td class="br"> Ni da ta way min </td><td class="br"> Nin da tā wan an </td><td class="br"> Mata ad oz id la </td><td class="br"> Na-da-ell nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye trade </td><td class="br"> Ki da ta way min </td><td class="br"> Ki da tā wan o wa </td><td class="br"> Mata a la ozayo </td><td class="br"> Na ool nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They trade </td><td class="br"> A ta way wok </td><td class="br"> Ata way wok </td><td class="br"> Ma tā a leeay la </td><td class="br"> Eghon a el nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I fight </td><td class="br"> Ni me gaz </td><td class="br"> Ni no ti ni gan </td><td class="br"> Magad ay a </td><td class="br"> Dinī gun as tir. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou fightest </td><td class="br"> Ki me gaz </td><td class="br"> Ki no ti ni gan </td><td class="br"> Magad osee ya la </td><td class="br"> Dini gun a ee dthir </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He fights </td><td class="br"> Mi gazo </td><td class="br"> No ti ni gay o </td><td class="br"> — </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We fight </td><td class="br"> Ni me gazomin </td><td class="br"> Nino ti ni gān an </td><td class="br"> — </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye fight </td><td class="br"> Ki me gazom </td><td class="br"> Ki no ti ni gan a wao </td><td class="br"> — </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They fight </td><td class="br"> Mi guz o wog </td><td class="br"> Notini gay wok </td><td class="br"> — </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I set a net </td><td class="br"> Ni bug-é ta wa </td><td class="br"> Ni bug-e ta wan </td><td class="br"> Zoo meet la uz loo </td><td class="br"> Tloo e kanistan. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou settest a net </td><td class="br"> Ki bug-e ta wa </td><td class="br"> Ki bug-e ta wan </td><td class="br"> Too meet lan itlo </td><td class="br"> Tloo é kan e than. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He sets a net </td><td class="br"> Bug-e ta wa </td><td class="br"> Bug-e ta wao </td><td class="br"> Ta eet loon </td><td class="br"> Tloo e kan ethan loay.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We set a net </td><td class="br"> Ni bug-e ta wa min </td><td class="br"> Ni bug-e ta wānan </td><td class="br"> Ta ghoo loo hoon </td><td class="br"> Tloo e kan oodthan. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye set a net </td><td class="br"> Ni bug-é ta wam </td><td class="br"> Ki bug-e ta-wan a wao </td><td class="br"> Ta ghoo loo uz éo </td><td class="br"> Tloo e kan eethan. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They set a net </td><td class="br"> Bug-e ta wā wog </td><td class="br"> Bug-e-ta-wa wog </td><td class="br"> Too milt at la oozoon </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I sail </td><td class="br"> Ni be mash </td><td class="br"> Ni be mashin </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou sailest </td><td class="br"> Ki be mash </td><td class="br"> Ki be mashin </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He sails </td><td class="br"> Bi mash é </td><td class="br"> Be mash eo </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br"> — </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We sail </td><td class="br"> Ni bi mishimin </td><td class="br"> Ni bi mashinan </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br">— </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye sail </td><td class="br"> Ki bi mash im </td><td class="br"> Ki bi mashin a wao </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br">— </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They sail </td><td class="br"> Bi mash i wog </td><td class="br"> Be mash i wog </td><td class="br">— </td><td class="br">— </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I sleep </td><td class="br"> Ni ni bā </td><td class="br"> Ni ni ban </td><td class="br"> Zus tee ay </td><td class="br"> Thee id ghee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou sleepest </td><td class="br"> Ki ni ba </td><td class="br"> Ki ni ban </td><td class="br"> Zin tee ay </td><td class="br"> Theend ghee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He sleeps </td><td class="br"> Ni ba </td><td class="br"> Ni ba o </td><td class="br"> Na gho tee azay </td><td class="br"> Thad ghee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We sleep </td><td class="br"> Ni ni bā min </td><td class="br"> Ni ni bān an </td><td class="br"> Zut ié tsho </td><td class="br"> Theed ghāz </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye sleep </td><td class="br"> Ki ni bam </td><td class="br"> Ki ni ban ā wao </td><td class="br"> Tsuz ié tsho </td><td class="br"> Thood ghaz </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They sleep </td><td class="br"> Ni ba wog </td><td class="br"> Ni ba wog </td><td class="br"> Tsugh ien tiez </td><td class="br"> Hay ud ghaz </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I drink </td><td class="br"> Ni minik way </td><td class="br"> Ni minik wan </td><td class="br"> Uzto </td><td class="br"> Haysta </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou drinkest </td><td class="br"> Ki minik way </td><td class="br"> Ki minik wan </td><td class="br"> Nadho </td><td class="br"> Nad-ha </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He drinks </td><td class="br"> Minik way </td><td class="br"> Minik way o </td><td class="br"> Ughiehedo </td><td class="br"> Ee ed ha </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We drink </td><td class="br"> Ni minik way min </td><td class="br"> Ni minik wānan </td><td class="br"> May ee ta </td><td class="br"> Heel tell </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye drink </td><td class="br"> Ki mink waim </td><td class="br"> Ki minik wanāwao </td><td class="br"> May lee ta la </td><td class="br"> Hool tell </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They drink </td><td class="br"> Minikway wog </td><td class="br"> Minikway wok </td><td class="br"> May atta </td><td class="br"> He el tell </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I want to drink </td><td class="br"> Ni we miniquay </td><td class="br"> Ni we miniquan </td><td class="br"> O ghoz to </td><td class="br"> Oz ta in is tan </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Drink </td><td class="br"> Minik quaine </td><td class="br"> Minik quay </td><td class="br"> Llhad ho </td><td class="br"> Ned ha </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Eat </td><td class="br"> Wiss in </td><td class="br"> Mee tisso </td><td class="br"> In tzits </td><td class="br"> Zinhud hee </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Sleep </td><td class="br"> Ni bān </td><td class="br"> Ni ba </td><td class="br"> Njuz ti ay </td><td class="br"> Dthin ghee </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Go away </td><td class="br"> Eko kān </td><td class="br"> Awiss tay </td><td class="br"> E yow é tshay </td><td class="br"> E you issay </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Come here </td><td class="br"> Undass is han </td><td class="br"> Ass-tum </td><td class="br"> Tee ad zay </td><td class="br"> E youk uz ay </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Tell him </td><td class="br"> Win da ma o </td><td class="br"> Wi da ma o </td><td class="br"> Tee ay tin day </td><td class="br"> Hal in nee </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Trade </td><td class="br"> Atāwaine </td><td class="br"> Ataway </td><td class="br"> Tee ay gho tsho </td><td class="br"> Na il nee </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Whence do you come? </td><td class="br"> Andé wentchipai an </td><td class="br"> Tanté way to tay </td><td class="br"> Tee ay ghay dzin aghon dee ay </td><td class="br"> Ed luzeet gho adzee an adee </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Where are you going? </td><td class="br"> Andé aish āe an </td><td class="br"> Tanté ay to tay an </td><td class="br"> Tee ay ghay de āza </td><td class="br"> Ed luzeet hee hee ya </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Be quick </td><td class="br"> Wee weep é tan </td><td class="br"> Kee-ee pee </td><td class="br"> Dzag ghay </td><td class="br"> Ee-gha </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I shoot </td><td class="br"> Ni bas giss é gay </td><td class="br"> Ni bas giss é gan </td><td class="br"> A jes tee o </td><td class="br"> A yous kay </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Thou shootest </td><td class="br"> Ki bas giss é gay </td><td class="br"> Ki bas giss é gan </td><td class="br"> A tee tshe etsh </td><td class="br"> Ahil kay </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> He shoots </td><td class="br"> Bās giss e gay </td><td class="br"> Bas giss e gay-o </td><td class="br"> Agha tee et yetsh </td><td class="br"> Ahil guth </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> We shoot </td><td class="br"> Ni bas gisse gay min </td><td class="br"> Ni bas gisse gān an </td><td class="br"> Ateed yetsh </td><td class="br"> Ahel keeth </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Ye shoot </td><td class="br"> Ki bas gisse game </td><td class="br"> Ki bas giss é gan ā wao </td><td class="br"> Atad yetsh </td><td class="br"> Er. ool keeth. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> They shoot </td><td class="br"> Bās gisse gay wog </td><td class="br"> Bas giss é gay wog </td><td class="br"> Aza du ghad yetsh </td><td class="br"> Tay ar el keeth. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> A Gun </td><td class="br"> Bās gisse gan </td><td class="br"> Bas giss é gan </td><td class="br"> Tié yaz o o </td><td class="br"> Tel git hay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Powder </td><td class="br"> Makatay </td><td class="br"> Kas. ki tay o </td><td class="br"> Al aizay </td><td class="br"> Tel ge gonna. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Shot </td><td class="br"> She shep ass nin </td><td class="br"> Nisk ass in ee a </td><td class="br"> Noo tay ad-o o </td><td class="br"> Telt hay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Give me </td><td class="br"> Meesh ish in </td><td class="br"> Mee an </td><td class="br"> Tes yay </td><td class="br"> Daz ee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> I give you </td><td class="br"> Ki mee nin </td><td class="br"> Ki mee ni tin </td><td class="br"> Nan uz lay </td><td class="br"> Na gha on in in nee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Look </td><td class="br"> In ā bin </td><td class="br"> Etā bi </td><td class="br"> Ag gan eetha </td><td class="br"> Ghon el lee. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Wait </td><td class="br"> Pee ton </td><td class="br"> Pay ho </td><td class="br"> Ad oog-a. </td><td class="br"> Gad day. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Tobacco </td><td class="br"> Na say ma </td><td class="br"> Na stay mao </td><td class="br"> Aday ka yazé </td><td class="br"> Sel tooe. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Pipe </td><td class="br"> Poagan </td><td class="br"> Os poagan </td><td class="br"> Tsee ay </td><td class="br"> Dthay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Net </td><td class="br"> Assup </td><td class="br"> A he apee </td><td class="br"> Too me </td><td class="br"> Dtka bill. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Fish </td><td class="br"> Kee kō </td><td class="br"> Kee no shay o </td><td class="br"> Tloo </td><td class="br"> Tloo-ay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Flesh </td><td class="br"> Wee-ass </td><td class="br"> Wee ass </td><td class="br"> Ad zun </td><td class="br"> Berr. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> River </td><td class="br"> See pé </td><td class="br"> See pé </td><td class="br"> Za ghay </td><td class="br"> Dāz. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Lake </td><td class="br"> Sa ka i gan </td><td class="br"> Sa ka i gan </td><td class="br"> Meet hay </td><td class="br"> Nad koo al ta. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Water </td><td class="br"> Nee pee </td><td class="br"> Nee pee </td><td class="br"> Too </td><td class="br"> Too. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Summer </td><td class="br"> Nee been </td><td class="br"> Nee been </td><td class="br"> Ad o lay </td><td class="br"> Seen nay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Winter </td><td class="br"> Pay poon </td><td class="br"> Pay pun </td><td class="br"> Ealk hay ay </td><td class="br"> Ghā e yay. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="blr"> Spring </td><td class="br"> See goan </td><td class="br"> Me as gamin </td><td class="br"> Do o </td><td class="br"> Tloo guth. </td></tr> +<tr><td class="bblr"> Autumn </td><td class="bbr"> Tag wā gin </td><td class="bbr"> Tag wā gin </td><td class="bbr"> Edoo aidlosin </td><td class="bbr"> Ghao ud azay. </td></tr> +</table> + +<h4>THE END.</h4> +<hr class="full" /> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service +in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + +***** This file should be named 16864-h.htm or 16864-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/8/6/16864/ + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory + Volume II. (of 2) + +Author: John M'lean + +Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + + + + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +-----------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's note: Special characters | + | are encoded thusly: [=a], [=e], and | + | [=o] represent "a", "e", and "o" with | + | superior macron. | + +-----------------------------------------+ + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + +BY JOHN M'LEAN. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOL. II. + + +LONDON: + +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, + +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. + +1849. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS + +OF + +THE SECOND VOLUME. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Journey to Norway House 9 + + +CHAPTER II. + +Arrival at York Factory--Its +Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of +the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16 + + +CHAPTER III. + +Exploring Expedition through the Interior of +Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the +Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32 + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at +Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's +River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous +Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and +miraculous Escape 60 + + +CHAPTER V. + +Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a +Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward +Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable +Condition 81 + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the +Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of +the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return +by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava +River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the +Post 88 + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain +permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable +Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102 + + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and +Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118 + + +CHAPTER X. + +The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador +to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of +Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The +Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or +Canoe--Ouimiak, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131 + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European +Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155 + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at +the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The +Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The +Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New +York 167 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at +Albany--Journey to Montreal 187 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch +from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage +La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort +Simpson--Productions of the Post 193 + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of +the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of +Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The +North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the +Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted +207 + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the +McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La +Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My +Reply to the Governor 228 + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the +Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's +River District--Peculiarities--Distress through +Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity +of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241 + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard, +but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the +Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255 + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's +Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of +Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the +Charter--Objections answered 260 + + +CHAPTER XX. + +Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr. +Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the +Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to +England--His sudden Death 278 + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + +Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River +through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the +North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its +Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English +Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for +Produce--Communication by Lakes 289 + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311 + + * * * * * + +VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in +the Hudson's Bay Territory 323 + + * * * * * + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE. + + +I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at +Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the +district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate +neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing +aspect of spring. + +Mr. F---- was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west +bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey +overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on +the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in +the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented +a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the +horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow--the +intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure +of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake +contributing to the variety of the landscape. + +Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in +consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever +they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, +began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to +allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared. + +On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which, +to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in +which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights +on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to +the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring +high grounds. + +On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge, +Mr. B---- having set off a few days before for the depot at Fort +Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who +entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day +we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against +this fare having completely vanished. + +Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River +and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the +Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are +there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find +subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords. +They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed +towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of +puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men +understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground, +which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; +and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community +and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any +one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during +their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself +by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by _pure_ +hands. + +We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles +found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we +advanced. The track left by Mr. B----'s party was of great service to +us. + +We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small +camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures +passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our +provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment +afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a +snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out +so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had +put the blood in circulation by walking. + +We overtook Mr. B---- on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and +worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow +indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted +the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded +horses to make a track. + +The country through which we have travelled for the last few days +is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the +traveller. + +We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left +bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to +the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of +the winter--an extraordinary circumstance, as there generally falls so +little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly +all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect +of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes, +&c.; they subsist on salmon and roots. + +Messrs. F---- and D---- arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of +April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring +servants. Mr. B---- accompanied us, having obtained permission to +cross the Rocky Mountains. + +We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly +reception from a warmhearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding +to the depot in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department +generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these +accounts--an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we +re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D---- and B---- behind; the former being +remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, having changed his mind, +in an evil hour for himself, returned to his old quarters; where he +was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian who had lost his father, +and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for +the absence of his children. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + ARRIVAL AT YORK FACTORY--ITS + SITUATION--CLIMATE--NATIVES--REIN-DEER--VOYAGE TO + UNGAVA--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA--SITUATION + AND ASPECT. + + +I arrived at York Factory, the depot of the Northern department, early +in July. This establishment presents a more respectable appearance +than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, and reflects no +small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly +executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected +since the coalition. When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the +buildings were of the most wretched description--the apartments +had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for +gentlemen. + +The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were +to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the +object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a +great expense; and the present commodious buildings were commenced, +but not finished by the projector. Other improvements have been made +since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that +could be expected in so unfavourable a situation. + +The depot is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted +by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks. Here there is always a +sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand +of the trade for two years--a wise precaution, as in the event of +any accident happening to prevent the vessel from reaching her +destination, the trade would not be interrupted. The very emergency +thus provided for occurred last autumn; the ship, after dropping +anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather +to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining +other serious damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward event, +the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the +interior with their outfits complete. + +The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered +unhealthy. In summer the extremes of heat and cold are experienced in +the course of a few hours; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen, +and before noon, duffle. Were the heat to continue for a sufficient +length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could +not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic +exhalations from the surrounding swamps. The ground, however, seldom +thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never +affected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy. + +One of Mr. McT----'s most beneficial improvements was to clear the +swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were +thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a great measure relieved +from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the +mosquitoes. These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared +ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for +his temerity. Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered +with them; defence is out of the question; the death of one is avenged +by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the unequal +contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his +quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door. + +There seems to be no foundation for the opinion generally entertained +that the natives do not suffer from the stings of these insects. The +incrustation of filth with which their bodies are covered undoubtedly +affords some protection, the skin not being so easily pierced; but no +incrustation, however thick, can be a defence against the attacks of +myriads; and in fact, the natives complain as loudly of the mosquitoes +as the whites. + +The Indians of this quarter are denominated Swampies, a tribe of the +Cree nation, whose language they speak with but little variation, +and in their manners and customs there is a great similarity. But the +Swampies are a degenerate race, reduced by famine and disease to a +few families; and these have been still farther reduced by an +epidemic which raged among them this summer. They were attacked by +it immediately on their return from the interior with the produce +of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes of being benefited +by medical advice and attendance. Their hopes, however, were not +realized; they were left entirely in charge of a young man without +experience and without humanity; and the disease was unchecked. Every +day the death of some poor wretch was made known to us by the firing +of guns, by which the survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened +away from the souls of their departed friends. + +Not many years ago this part of the country was periodically visited +by immense herds of rein-deer; at present there is scarcely one to be +found. Whether their disappearance is owing to their having changed +the course of their migrations, or to their destruction by the +natives, who waylaid them on their passage, and killed them by +hundreds, is a question not easily determined. It may be they have +only forsaken this part of the country for a time, and may yet return +in as great numbers as ever: be that as it may, the present want to +which the Indians are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of +those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded them food and clothing. +Their subsistence is now very precarious; derived principally from +snaring rabbits and fishing; and rabbits also fail periodically. + +Their fare during summer, however, soon obliterates the remembrance +of the privations of winter: fish is then found in every lake, and +wild-fowl during the moulting season become an easy prey; while young +ducks and geese are approached in canoes, and are destroyed with +arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired the use of their +wings. The white man similarly situated would undoubtedly think of +the long winter he had passed in want, and would provide for the next +while he could;--so much foresight, however, does not belong to the +Indian character. + +Fishing and hunting for the establishment affords employment to a few +Indians during summer, and is an object of competition among them, +on account of the incomparable gratification it affords--grog +drinking--to which no earthly bliss can be compared in the Indian's +estimation. To find the Company serving out rum to the natives as +payment for their services in this remote quarter, created the utmost +surprise in my mind: no excuse can be advanced which can justify the +unhallowed practice, when the management of the native population is +left entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued? Strange to say, +while Indians were to be seen rolling drunk about the establishment, +an order of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of ardent spirits +in any quantity exceeding two gallons to the Company's officers of +whatever rank, with the view of preventing the demoralization of the +natives! + +Most of the natives have a smattering of English, and are said to be +a quiet, harmless race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote +situation, and impoverished country protect them from the hostile +inroads of neighbouring tribes; hence the tame and pacific demeanour +by which they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often retires to +rest without a morsel to eat for himself or family, and that for days +together; yet he is under no apprehension from his enemies, and enjoys +his night's rest undisturbed; whereas, the warrior of the plain, while +he revels in abundance, seldom retires to rest without apprehension; +the hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his midnight slumber, +either to be butchered himself, or to hear the dying groans of his +family while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of man with good +and evil in every condition, whether civilized or savage. + +Every preparation for our departure being now completed, I took leave +of Fort York, its fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret. +We embarked on the 22d of August, in a brig that had fortunately +escaped the mishaps of the other vessels last autumn; and after being +delayed in port by adverse winds till the 26th, we finally stood out +to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert just come in. The fields of +ice, that had been observed a few days previously, having now entirely +disappeared, the captain concluded that the passage was clear for him, +and accordingly steered for the south. He had not proceeded far in +this direction, however, when we fell in with such quantities of ice +as to interrupt our passage; but we still continued to force our +way through. Convinced at length of the futility of the attempt, +we altered our course to a directly opposite point, standing to the +north, until we came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away for +the strait, making Mansfield Island on the 7th of September. We +encountered much stream ice on our passage, from which no material +injury was sustained; although the continual knocking of our rather +frail vessel against the ice created a good deal of alarm, from the +effect the collision produced, shaking her violently from stem to +stern. + +We were thus passing rapidly through the straits without experiencing +any accident worthy of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one +evening, how soon he expected to make the Island of Akpatok. He +replied, "To-morrow morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest +about ten, P.M., and I had not yet fallen asleep, when I heard +an unusual bustle on deck, and one of the men rushing down to the +captain's room to call him up. I instantly dressed and went on +deck, where I soon learned the cause;--a dark object, scarcely +distinguishable through the fog and gloom of night, was pointed out +to me on our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which we had been +rushing, propelled by wind and current, at the rate of thirteen knots +an hour, when it was observed. A few moments more, and we had been +launched into eternity. Had the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed +for a minute, or had the slightest accident occurred to prevent the +vessel from wearing at the very instant, our doom was certain. + +The western extremity of the Island of Akpatok, terminating in a +high promontory seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's edge, +formed the danger we had so providentially escaped. Next day we saw +the dismal spot in all its horrors. The island was still partially +covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation were discernible; but +a fresh breeze springing up we soon lost sight of this desolate spot, +and made the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about an hour after +sunset. The captain was a perfect stranger on the coast, and had but a +very imperfect chart to guide him; he nevertheless stood boldly in for +the land, and fortunately discovered the mouth of the river, which we +entered as darkness closed in upon us. + +By this time the breeze, that had carried us on so rapidly, increased +to a gale, so that if we had not entered the river so opportunely, +the consequences might have been serious. We were utterly unacquainted +with the coast, which presented a thousand dangers in the shape of +rocks and breakers, that were observable in every direction, as far as +the eye could reach to seaward; we therefore congratulated ourselves +on our fancied security--for it was only fancied, as will presently +appear. We kept firing as we approached the land, with the view of +apprizing the people of the post, who were directed to await us at the +mouth of the river. No sound was heard in reply until we had advanced +a few miles up the river, when we were gratified with hearing the +report of muskets, and presently several torches were visible blazing +a little ahead. + +The night was uncommonly dark, the banks of the river being scarcely +perceptible; and although it appeared to me we were much nearer then +than prudence would warrant, we still drew nearer, when our progress +was suddenly arrested. The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock, +and heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown on her beam-ends. +Swinging round, however, with the force of the current, she soon got +off again; and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped anchor. +Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came alongside in their canoes, who +gave us to understand by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the +post. + +Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, our Esquimaux made +signs to weigh anchor, which being done, one of them took his station +by the side of the helmsman, and never moved a moment from the spot, +pointing out the deep channel, with which he appeared well acquainted; +although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted in his countenance, lest +any accident should happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, when +he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep groan; he managed so well, +however, that he brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall. +From 10 A.M. until late in the evening we had only advanced +twenty-five miles, although we pressed against the current with +top-gallant sails set and a strong wind in our favour. + +Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey and myself determined +on rowing up to the post, where we arrived about four, P.M. I need +scarcely say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people so +seldom visited by strangers, in a situation which had no regular +communication as yet with any other part of the world. + +I was much gratified by the appearance of every thing about the +establishment. The buildings had just been finished with materials +sent out from England, through the considerate and kindly feeling of +the Committee, whose compassion had been excited by the accounts they +had heard of the miserable hovels in which the people were lodged when +the place was first settled. After passing an hour or two examining +the fort, (as it is called _par excellence_,) we returned to the +ship, and weighing anchor at an early hour the next morning, (11th +September,) we were soon brought up to the establishment, and landed +without loss of time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us no +small consolation, however, to reflect that we had no further cause to +apprehend danger from icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us +greater comfort as to living and accommodation than we had been led to +expect. + +The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped down with the stream on +the 15th, leaving us to reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary +prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, while the operation +of weighing was being executed, echoing from the surrounding hills, +suggested the question, "When shall that sound be heard again?" From +the melancholy reverie which this idea suggested I was roused by the +voice of my fellow exile, "the companion of my joys and sorrows," in +whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell. + +This post is situated in lat. 59 deg. 28', standing on the east bank of +South River, about thirty miles distant from the sea, surrounded by +a country that presents as complete a picture of desolation as can be +imagined; moss-covered rocks without vegetation and without verdure, +constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the eye in every +direction. A few stunted pines growing in the villages form the +only exception; and at this season of the year, when they shed their +leaves, contribute but little to the improvement of the scene. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR + OF LABRADOR--DIFFICULTIES--DEER-HUNT--INDIAN + GLUTTONY--DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY--PROVISIONS RUN + SHORT--INFLUENZA. + + +The Company having learned, through a pamphlet published by the +Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent +furs, were induced by the laudable desire of "ameliorating the +condition of the natives," to settle it; and a party was accordingly +sent overland from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of +1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left +both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company. + +Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a +settlement in this quarter, the profits derived from it added but +little to the dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance +like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be +found; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price, +they were far from plentiful; while the enormous expense of supplying +the district by sea, and supporting it on imported provisions, +rendered the "Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant +discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the +measure from the first. + +Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware +of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every +effort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the +returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the +interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at +the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast +of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from +thence by inland route; "there being no question of the practicability +of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers. + +Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and +represented to me the utter impossibility of carrying my instructions +into effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches +from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the +district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage, +placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a +very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst +by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This +vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance on the 22d of September, +and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two +years' consumption. + +Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the +difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the +natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining +there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an +early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo +on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey +to the reader. + +"_Tuesday, the 2d of January_, 1838.--I left Fort Chimo at eleven +A.M., accompanied by the following men, _viz._:-- + +"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian guides, who are to +accompany me throughout the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson +go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with +provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves. + +"_Wednesday, the 3d._--Left our encampment before dawn of day. +Excessively cold--some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our +principal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us, +set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having +proceeded about nine miles. + +"_Thursday, the 4th._--Started at seven A.M. Reached High Fall Creek +at nine A.M. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone, +finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at +half-past nine; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our +young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. We waited +till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely +exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles. + +"_Friday, the 5th._--Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five +A.M.; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 6th._--As the ice was covered with water close to our +encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off +at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence +of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It +continuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I +gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile. + +"_Sunday, the 7th._--Got up about three A.M., literally buried in +snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them +till eight o'clock, when we started with only half loads, with which +we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the +remainder; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the +tempest which had incommoded us so much last night had cleared the +ice of snow; we therefore returned for the property we had left; then +proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached +the lake; when my guides, discovering a herd of deer on an adjacent +hill, immediately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my +two _brules_. I saw at once my day's journey was at an end, and +accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us +in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed. +Proceeded eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 8th._--Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was +much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which +our route lay. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 9th._--Blowing a hurricane; the cold being also +intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the +risk of being frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters, +such as they were, until the weather should moderate. + +"_Wednesday, the 10th._--My guides appeared very unwilling to quit +their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They might +have been really ill; but the beastly manner in which they had been +gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the +cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore +sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their +choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled +through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen +miles. + +"_Thursday, the 11th._--Started at five, A.M. Soon fell on a large +lake, on which we travelled till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus +far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width. +As Mr. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these +inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to +the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best +quality; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of +the year. Proceeded fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 12th._--Being immoderately cold, and the wind blowing +direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake. + +"_Saturday, the 13th._--Weather fine. Left Erlandson's Lake about one, +A.M.; it still stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach, +and cannot be less than forty miles in length; its medium breadth, +however, does not exceed two miles and a half. The circumjacent +country is remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the highest +hills, and is reported by the natives to abound in martens. A few +industrious Indians would not fail to turn such advantages to good +account; but they can avail the Company very little, while the natives +alone are in possession of them. Went on twenty-four miles. + +"_Sunday, the 14th._--Set off at five, A.M. Passed over several small +lakes; the country well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon, +the banks covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced +sixteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 15th._--Took our departure at seven, A.M. Travelled +without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 16th._--Decamped at five, A.M.; the snow very deep in +the woods. Fell on Whale River at ten, A.M. The face of the country +presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river +it is generally well wooded, but afterwards becomes extremely +barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks. +Proceeded sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 17th._--Started at five, A.M. Our route in the +morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out +again on Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. The +appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday. +Proceeded eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 18th._--P. Neven being unable to travel from +indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue, +deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime +I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far +reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I +accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back. + +"_Friday, the 19th._--Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now +convalescent) and Mordoch Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I +and my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained a sled of dogs, +intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale +River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at +four, P.M. Fourteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 20th._--The moon affording no longer light to find +our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven +A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small +growth; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on +which we travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 21st._--Set off at seven A.M. About eleven, we fell on +the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully +examined; their experience not only enabling them to determine the +precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely +to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very +much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present +modicum of food, I determined on availing myself of an opportunity +which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians +accordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure +to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the +heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the +time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after +them a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the herd, which +immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our +guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain by +ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed +of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals +fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have +believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space +of time the kettle was disposed of;--and this, too, after their usual +daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the +other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles. + +"_Monday, the 22nd._--On examining the remains of the deer this +morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good +intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves so +sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for +their canine brethren. We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very +heavy in the woods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we +made better speed. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 23rd._--Travelled through woods the greater part of the +day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 24th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Our route lay through +swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens +appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have +discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our +route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers +frequent, are to be met with in every direction; but the country +produces no food for them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable +lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On +asking them if this were the lake where we intended to build, they +pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in +that direction!--so far had I been led from the route I intended to +have followed, notwithstanding the perfect understanding I had with +my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment. +Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles. + +"_Thursday, the 25th._--Immediately on leaving our encampment, we +fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be +George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed +our course over bare hills. Encamped at three, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Friday, the 26th._--Having passed the night in a clump of small +pines, which sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we +were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round +us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were +completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind +blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing +a hummock of wood close to us, we shaped our course for it, where we +were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees +to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing +with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty in +clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a +miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles. + +"_Saturday, the 27th._--Arose from our comfortless _couche_ at +half-past four. The snow having drifted over us, and being melted +by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our +blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying +them occupied us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very deep. +Proceeded nine miles. + +"_Sunday, the 28th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Snow still increasing +in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we +came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a +short distance; then followed the course of a small stream running in +an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our route lay over marshes +and small lakes; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with +larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 29th._--Started at seven. Appearance of the country much +the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 30th._--Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking +heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength, +which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has +had to perform; always beating the track a-head, without being once +relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 31st._--Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a +few small birch trees. Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 1st of February._--Started at the usual hour. We have +been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past. +The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer, +are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently +pursuing a circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage, +subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions,--a contingency +which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can +afford no more food to the dogs; their load is now transferred to the +men's sleds. Fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 2d._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our route over +extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to +be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least +elevation commands a most extensive view; but the eye turns away in +disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present. +I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this +evening. Eighteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 3d._--Set off at seven, A.M. Reached Michigama Lake at +one, P.M.; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped +on an island. Proceeded twenty miles. + +"_Sunday, the 4th._--Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted +for our scanty meal at ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our +march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island near the mainland on +the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here +repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay, +by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that +nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable +starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by +the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own +provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I +had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in +accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country. + +"_Monday, the 5th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Reached the mainland at +half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north-east, +which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the +lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The +Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, but miserably small pine, +thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen +miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 6th._--Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his +way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding; +when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace, +which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate. +Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 7th._--Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the +site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently +occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from +Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route, +required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to +Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree, +that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped +near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by +inaccessible precipices on both sides. The view above the fall is +interrupted by stupendous rocks; the natives say that the appearance +of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to +Michigama Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind +of craft. Eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 8th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Fine travelling on +the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five +minutes past five. Twenty miles. + +"_Friday, the 9th._--Decamped at seven. Travelling good; the banks +of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We +observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles. + +"_Saturday, the 10th._--Started at eight, A.M. About noon we arrived +at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west. +Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward. +The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives +to be impracticable, and similar to the upper part. Our snow-shoes +being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose +of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 11th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our course +through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it +struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing +its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending +and descending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men +complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 12th._--The weather being so much overcast that we +could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, A.M. +Encamped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 13th._--Set off at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous +snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day; +we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant +recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide +told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in the +evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found +two of Mr. McGillivray's people, who were stationed there for the +purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 14th._--The weather being unpropitious, and finding +ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day +enjoying the comfort of a roof. + +"_Thursday, the 15th._--Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn; +the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D. +Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely +incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire +was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to +lie down; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I +waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued my route, accompanied by +the Indians, leaving H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen +miles. + +"_Friday, the 16th._--Set off at four, A.M. Arrived at dusk at Port +Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and long +beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name. + +"_Saturday, the 17th._--An Indian was despatched early in the morning, +to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington +Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want +of food than medicine." + +Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at +present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy +or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of +their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an +understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing +to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so +conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation +among themselves, they expressed their intention to be guided by our +advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my +despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to +be forwarded thence to Canada, _via_ the Company's posts along the +Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay for my guides (who had +gone to pay the _kettles_ of their friends a visit), preparatory to my +departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than +I had calculated upon, from the prevalence of excessively bad weather +for a fortnight. + +Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned the same evening; but +they were so emaciated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking +like so many spectres--a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at +that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however, +declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load; +and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany his relative. Two +young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much +reduced as the others, I proposed to them to accompany me as far +as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they +consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along +with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself and two men, along with my +"husky" interpreter, followed next morning; but as we are to retrace +our steps by the same way we came, it will be unnecessary to narrate +the occurrences of each day. + +We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one +of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and +unable to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, did not +much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his +route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest +camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our +guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal +malady,--this was the climax to my disappointment. I determined on +returning to Fort Smith with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I +hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the +end of the season. + +I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the +dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson +in charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. On the morning +of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to +haul the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further +orders. + +My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing +sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis +of the malady; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered +strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which +I joyfully assented; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the +19th of March, and joined my men next day. + +Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I +started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength +enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of +provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. We +overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide +from his relatives while we pursued the same route. We arrived on the +30th at their last stage, and encamped together. + +Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my +guide, announcing his determination to proceed no farther, unless +Pellican were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately, +and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of +such a proposition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for +ourselves--that it would expose the whole party to the risk of +starvation; but I addressed a thing without reason and without +understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield. + +We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining +our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was +altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too +apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to +avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences; +and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two +parties,--the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort, +by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other, +which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to +absolute want. + +Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied by the guide and +H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson to make the best of his way, with the +Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the +provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were +soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved +to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on +the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present +circumstances, "food for the gods." Such as it was, it enabled us to +keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th +of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country +assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends--our +guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to +meet my rear-guard,--the other servants about the establishment, who +were accustomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer. + +On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with +Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he +replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles +distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could +not be prevailed upon to go a step farther; and that he (Pellican) +had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they +expected. They were within a day's journey of them; and yet the +wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, leaving the others +to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely; +yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, who have but +little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from +the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived, +were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing; and I had the +satisfaction to see my famished _compagnons de voyage_ arrive, on the +26th of April. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT--EXPLORING PARTY--THEIR + REPORT--ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX--ESTABLISH POSTS--POUNDING + REIN-DEER--EXPEDITION UP GEORGE'S RIVER--ITS + DIFFICULTIES--HAMILTON RIVER--DISCOVER A STUPENDOUS + CATARACT--RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA--SUDDEN STORM, + AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. + + +Having thus ascertained the impracticability of the inland +communication, I transmitted the result of my observations to the +Governor--a report which, I doubt not, proved rather unpalatable to +his Excellency, unaccustomed as he is to have any of his movements +checked by that impudent and uncompromising word--impossible. I +was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt had proved uncommonly +successful; so that I had now the means of carrying into effect the +Governor's instructions on this point. On the approach of spring, +preparations were made for establishing a post inland; guides were +hired for the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success. + +At this time I was visited by a very grievous affliction, in the loss +of my beloved wife, whose untimely death left me in a more wretched +condition than words can express. This was truly an eventful year for +me;--within that space I became a husband, a father, and a widower;--I +traversed the continent of America, performing a voyage of some +1,500 miles by sea, and a journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on +snow-shoes. + +As soon as the navigation became practicable (June 18), Mr. Erlandson +set off for the interior, with his outfit, in three small canoes, and +after much toil reached his destination on the 10th of July. On the +return of the men who had assisted in the transport, I fitted out +an expedition to explore the coast to the westward, with the view of +ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter, for the extension of +the business. The party was absent about a month; and their report +was entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying our "ameliorating +system" so far. The navigation of the coast is exceedingly dangerous, +from the continual presence of ice, and the extraordinary force of the +currents. While the coast proved so inaccessible, the interior of the +country wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect; not a tree, nor +shrub, nor plant of any land, is to be seen, save the lichens that +cover the rocks, and a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom our +people had seen, evinced the same amicable disposition by which their +whole race is distinguished. They received our people with open arms, +and some of the young damsels seemed disposed to cultivate a closer +intimacy with them than their ideas of propriety, or at least their +olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia that proceeds from +their persons in the summer season is quite insufferable; it is as if +you applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil. + +In the course of the summer, several Esquimaux arrived from the +westward, with a considerable quantity of fox-skins,--the only fur +this barren country yields. Some of these poor creatures had passed +nearly two years on their journey hither, being obliged to hunt or +fish for their living as they travelled. They set off on their return +with a little tobacco, or a few strings of beads;--very few having the +means of procuring guns and ammunition. + +Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the month of September, when +I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a +junior clerk appointed to the district. By him we received the first +intelligence of the stirring events that had taken place in the +colonies during the preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs of my +countrymen's arms over French treachery and Yankee hatred, diverted +my thoughts, for the first time, from the melancholy subject of my +late bereavement; the thoughts of which my solitude served rather to +cherish than dispel. + +Having learned from the natives that a river fell into the bay, +about eighty miles to the eastward, that offered greater facilities +for carrying on the business in the interior than our present +communication, I ordered the men who had assisted Mr. Erlandson, +to descend by this river,--an enterprise which was successfully +accomplished. Their report confirming that of the natives, I forthwith +determined on establishing a post there; and the season being now +far advanced, I had no sooner decided on the step than I set about +carrying it into execution. A party was despatched with every +requisite for the purpose, about the 15th of September; and I received +a communication from them in October, informing me that they had +discovered a convenient situation for erecting the buildings. The +materials being found on the spot, and the men aware of the approach +of winter, and straining every nerve to secure themselves against its +rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were raised and already +occupied. + +In the early part of winter, being, I may say, entirely alone,--for +there remained only one man and an interpreter with me,--I amused +myself by shooting partridges, which abounded in the neighbourhood +that season; but the cold became so excessive as the winter advanced, +that I was compelled to forego that amusement, and confine myself to +the four walls of my prison, with the few books I possessed as my only +companions. My despatches for the civilized world being completed, I +was altogether at a loss how to forward them, as none of the natives +could be induced, even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. At +length one was found who consented to accompany one of my men to Mr. +Erlandson's post, but no farther. + +My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had the mortification to +learn on their return that the packet remained at the outpost, +owing to an accident that befel one of the Indian guides, and which +incapacitated him for the trip. Our friends would thus remain in +ignorance of our fate for nearly two years. The report received +regarding the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as far as the +trade was concerned; but the privations suffered by those engaged in +it, it was painful to learn; their sole subsistence consisted of fish, +rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage it had sustained from +the heat of the sun, and a few rabbits and partridges. Who would not +be an Indian trader? + +Early in the month of March the rein-deer made their appearance again, +and every countenance brightened up at the thoughts of the approaching +pastime. I fell on a plan, however, that divested the sport of much +of its attractions, although calculated to ensure greater success. +A favourable position being selected, a certain extent of ground was +fenced in so as to form a "pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap +being left in it to admit the game from the river side. This done, I +caused branches to be placed on the ice above and below the deer pass, +which the animals observing, became alarmed, and running from side to +side of the open space between the lines of branches, at length made a +dash at the opposite side of the river, and entered the trap prepared +for them at a gallop, continuing at the top of their speed until +stopped by the upper part of the "pound," when they wheeled round, and +making for the entrance, were received with a volley of balls from +the huntsmen; a continual fire being kept up upon them in this manner +until they all dropped. + +The scene presented by the slaughter was anything but agreeable, yet +stern necessity compelled me to continue the butchery; and the success +that attended my scheme far exceeded my expectations. The first herd +that entered, in number about fifty, burst through the fence; but our +works were immediately strengthened, so as to defy their efforts in +future to escape. A herd of 300 was soon after entrapped, and in the +course of two hours all were killed. + +Having thus obtained an ample stock of provisions, the different +parties employed at the fishing and hunting stations were recalled, +and preparations were begun for our summer campaign, in which I +determined to take an active part. The favourable report of last +summer respecting the East or George's River, combined with reports +that had reached me since of another large river flowing a short +distance to the south of Esquimaux Bay, suggested the possibility of +carrying on our business on this line of communication. With the view, +therefore, of carrying this design into effect, I had a boat built +in the course of the winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew +on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of ice at an earlier +period; and sweeping down on the top of the current at railroad speed, +reached the sea in about three hours. + +It being still early in the day, and no ice to be seen, we pulled for +the opposite side of the bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The +weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, and had proceeded +about seven miles with every prospect of effecting our purpose, +when lo! the tide was observed to be making against us; and the ice +returning with it, apparently in a compact body, we were placed in +rather a critical situation. The sun was declining, while the coast +presented a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility of +landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River. + +Towards that point, therefore, the head of the boat was directed, and +the crew, seeing the imminence of the danger, rowed with all their +might; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we made good our landing +ere the ice closed in around us. A few minutes after not a speck of +water could be descried. + +Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, leaving only a narrow +strip of open water along the shore; into this channel we pushed our +boat, and for some time made but little progress, being continually +interrupted by pieces of ice, which the high tide detached from the +shore. Our channel, however, soon widened, and in a short time not +a particle of ice could be seen, disappearing as if by magic; for +in a few minutes after it began to move, no traces of it could be +discovered as far as the eye could reach to seaward. We reached East +or George's River, without further interruption, on the 3d of July, +where we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th. + +The post established here last autumn is situated in a still more +cheerless spot than Fort Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills, +whose sides are covered with the _debris_ of rock, which appears to +have been detached from the hills by the process of decay. The post +stands at the foot of one of those frightful hills, while another +rises immediately in front; the intervening valleys, or cavities, +present nothing to enliven the scene, save a few stunted pines, and +here and there a patch of snow. + +The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region of sterility and desolation, +at first appeared delighted with the idea of having whites among them: +finding, however, that our presence yielded them no advantage, they +soon became indifferent about us, and proceeded to the Moravian +settlement with the produce of their hunts, where they obtained their +little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed. + +My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted of ten able men; and +an Indian guide accompanied us in his canoe. As we ascended, our +difficulties increased at every step, the water being much lower than +last year. I found myself engaged in a more laborious work than I had +ever yet undertaken--towing the boat day after day against a current +flowing in a continuous rapid, so as to admit of not one moment's +relaxation, unless during the short interval allowed for rest to +such as could take it--no easy matter when myriads of sand-flies and +mosquitoes filled the air and tortured us incessantly. + +We continued to advance in this manner, hauling, pulling, carrying, +and even launching the boat for about fifteen days, when we reached +an expansion of the river, without any perceptible current, and +sufficiently deep to admit of the use of the oar. + +Our labour was now supposed to be at an end by those who had explored +the river; no further doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching +Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends and news from all +quarters would reward us for all our toils. Let not him who knows not +what it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and the great +world, year after year, think lightly of the reward which the solitary +trader, in his remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, however, +were soon dissipated. Having reached the upper extremity of the +still water, we encountered difficulties that defied every attempt to +surmount. + +The lake just referred to proved to be the source of the lower +stream; the rivulet that flowed into it from above being so shallow +as scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. It was therefore +impossible to proceed with the boat, a circumstance that placed me in +a rather perplexing position; for I had the outfit for the interior in +charge, without which the business, so lately established with every +prospect of success, would fail. + +There was, however, no time to be lost in vain regrets; the advanced +period of the season required instant decision, and our stock +of provisions was diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on +proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe belonging to our guide, +taking two of the men with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to +erect a temporary post; and in the mean time sent my guide to apprize +the Indians in the vicinity of the steps I had taken to supply their +wants next winter. + +These arrangements completed, I embarked in an eggshell of a canoe, so +small as not to admit of anything save the smallest possible supply +of provisions,--tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. Soon after leaving +our encampment, we came to a portage some ten miles in length, and +struck the river again, where, from the report of the men, I expected +no further difficulties would impede our progress. But the event did +not answer my expectations; from the continual drought of the season +the water proved so low that we had to drag along our canoe, wading in +the water, where a boat would have passed with ease last year. In this +manner we continued our toilsome voyage without relaxation for several +days, carrying our canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the water +from early dawn until late at night, when we threw ourselves down +on the ground to pass the night without shelter from the weather +or protection from the stings of our merciless persecutors the +mosquitoes, who pursued their avocation with unwearied assiduity, +so that our rest was small, and that little afforded us but scanty +refreshment. + +Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of the route, was +rendered still slower by our frequent deviations from our course; my +guides having paid but little attention to their instructions last +year. We at length reached the post on the 16th of August, half +starved, half naked, and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the +good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our spirits, if not our +"inexpressibles;" and although much annoyed that no Indians could +be induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I determined on making the +attempt with such assistance as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was +well acquainted with the upper part of the river. + +After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe sufficiently large to +contain several conveniences, to which I had been for some time a +stranger,--a tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us by +day; we fared, too, like princes, on the produce of "sea and land," +procured by the net and the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our +downward course without meeting any interruption, or experiencing any +difficulty in finding our way; when, one evening, the roar of a mighty +cataract burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was at hand. +We soon reached the spot, which presented to us one of the grandest +spectacles in the world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our +enterprise. + +About six miles above the fall the river suddenly contracts, from a +width of from four hundred to six hundred yards, to about one hundred +yards; then rushing along in a continuous foaming rapid, finally +contracts to a breadth of about fifty yards, ere it precipitates +itself over the rock which forms the fall; when, still roaring and +foaming, it continues its maddened course for about a distance of +thirty miles, pent up between walls of rock that rise sometimes to +the height of three hundred feet on either side. This stupendous fall +exceeds in height the Falls of Niagara, but bears no comparison to +that sublime object in any other respect, being nearly hidden from the +view by the abrupt angle which the rocks form immediately beneath it. +If not seen, however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary force with +which it tumbles into the abyss underneath, that we felt the solid +rock shake under our feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the +gulf. A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at a great distance +in clear weather, hangs over the spot. From the fall to the foot of +the rapid--a distance of thirty miles--the zigzag course of the river +presents such sharp angles, that you see nothing of it until within a +few yards of its banks. Might not this circumstance lead the geologist +to the conclusion that the fall had receded this distance? The mind +shrinks from the contemplation of a subject that carries it back to +a period of time so very remote; for if the rock,--syenite, always +possessed its present solidity and hardness, the action of the water +alone might require millions of years to produce such a result! + +After carrying our canoe and baggage for a whole day through bogs, and +swamps, and windfalls, in the hope of finding the river accessible, we +at length gave up the attempt; and with heavy hearts and weary limbs +retracing our steps, we reached the outpost, without accident, after +an absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible to remove either +the returns, or the small quantity of goods remaining on hand, I +determined on leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter here; +and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to assume the charge of the temporary +post, where I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the 1st of +September, and I was delighted at finding my men living in the midst +of abundance;--the surrounding country apparently abounding with +rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of the best quality. I remained +with the men two days to expedite the buildings which were yet +unfinished; and in the meantime a party of Indians arrived, whom we +persuaded to carry our despatches to Esquimaux Bay. + +After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erlandson with two men to +share his solitude, and reached the sea without experiencing any +adventure worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, I was induced, one +evening, by the flattering appearance of the weather, to attempt the +passage of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there was little +danger of being delayed afterwards by stress of weather. This step I +soon had cause to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth surface; +not a breath of wind was felt, and the stars shone out brightly. A few +clouds began to appear on the horizon; and the boat began to rise +and fall with the heaving of the sea. Understanding what these signs +portended, we immediately pulled for the shore; but had scarcely +altered our course when the stars disappeared, a tremendous noise +struck upon our ears from seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the +impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace of land could be +discovered; but we continued to ply our oars, while each succeeding +billow threatened immediate destruction. + +The horrors of our situation increased; the man on the out-look +called out that he saw breakers a-head in every direction, and escape +appeared to be next to impossible. My crew of Scottish Islanders, +however, continued their painful exertions without evincing the +apprehensions they must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was now at +hand. We approached so near to the breakers that it was impossible to +avoid them; and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next moment +would be their last. + +In such a situation the thoughts of even the most depraved naturally +carry them beyond the limits of time; and by these thoughts, I +believe, the soul of every one was absorbed; yet the men lost not +their presence of mind. Suddenly, the voice of the look-out was heard +amid the roar of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark breach +in the line of foam that stretched out before us, which he fancied to +be a channel between the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought us +to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we found it to answer the +man's conjecture; but, so narrow was the passage, that the oars on +both sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute afterwards we found +ourselves becalmed and in safety. The boat being moored, and the men +ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, as we best could, +supperless, and without having tasted food since early dawn. + +The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morning; but we found, to +our great satisfaction, that we had entered a kind of channel that +lay along the shore, where we were protected from the storm by the +innumerable rocky islets that stretched along the mainland. Regarding +the labyrinth of islands through which we had effected a passage +in the darkness, we were struck with wonder at our escape; and felt +convinced that the hand of Providence alone could have guided us +through such perils in safety. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF HUDSON'S STRAIT, ON + A RAFT--DESPATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR--DISTRESS OF THE + ESQUIMAUX--FORWARD PROVISIONS TO MR. E----. RETURN OF THE + PARTY--THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION. + + +We reached Fort Chimo on the 20th September. A greater number of +Esquimaux were assembled about the post than I had yet seen; and among +them I was astonished to find a family from the north side of the +Strait, and still more astonished when I learned the way they had +crossed--a raft formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along the +shore, afforded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise. + +On questioning them what was their object in risking their lives in +so extraordinary an adventure, they replied, that they wanted wood to +make canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait. + +"And what if you had been overtaken by a storm?" said I. + +"We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply. + +In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, a storm having come on +just as they landed on the first island. + +The fact of these people having crossed Hudson's Strait on so rude +and frail a conveyance, strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion +that America was originally peopled from Asia. The Asiatic side of +Behring's Strait affording timber sufficiently large for the purpose +of building boats or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in +supposing that, when once in possession of that wonderful and useful +invention--a boat, they might be induced, even by curiosity--that +powerful stimulus to adventure--to visit the nearest island, and from +thence proceed to the continent of America; and finding it, perhaps, +possessed of superior advantages to the shores they had left, settle +there. My voyageur was evidently induced as much by curiosity as by +the desire of procuring a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's +Strait, where the passage is as wide as between the island in +Behring's Strait and the two continents. + +At an early period of the winter I was gratified by the arrival of +despatches from the civilized world. The packet was found by the +Indians at Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and forwarded to me +by Mr. Erlandson's two men. By his letters I was grieved to learn that +starvation stared him in the face; the fishing, that promised so well +when I passed, having entirely failed, and no deer were to be found. +He wrote me, however, that he would maintain his post while a piece of +parchment remained to gnaw! + +The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of the Governor and +Committee for my "laudable exertions;" while his Excellency intimated, +in language not to be misunderstood, that my promotion depended on my +successful management of the affairs of Ungava, "which he regretted to +find were still in an unpromising state." + +What effect this announcement had on my feelings need not be +mentioned--after a painful servitude of eighteen years thus to +be compelled to make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere I +obtained the reward of my toil, while many others had reached the +goal in a much shorter time without experiencing either hardship or +privation,--the injustice I had suffered, or the deceit that had been +practised on _me_. As a balm to my wounded feelings, my correspondents +in the north informed me that seven clerks had been promoted since I +left Norway House. + +Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a preceding page passed the +winter in this quarter, not daring to return in consequence of an +hostile rencontre they had had with some of their own tribes on their +way hither. The quarrel, like most Indian quarrels, originated in an +attempt to carry off women: both parties had recourse to arms, and +a desperate struggle ensued, in which our visitors were completely +defeated, with the loss of several lives. + +They remained about the post for a short time, admiring its wonderful +novelties--wonderful to them--and then proceeded some distance up the +river to waylay the deer that had already crossed unobserved by them. +The poor creatures, unaware of this fact, remained on the ground until +every article that afforded any kind of sustenance was consumed; when +they started for the post, leaving the weaker of the party to follow +as they best could. They all arrived the same day except two widows, +who had lost their husbands in the fray. I sent off two young men with +a supply of provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having devoured +the food, returned without the women, although I had previously +supplied their own wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own men, +accompanied by an Esquimaux; but, as might have been expected, the +women were found lying dead on the ice near each other. + +Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly request any assistance +from me, the report he communicated as to the failure of provisions +was sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours to relieve his +wants. With this view I hired an Indian lad to act as guide to a party +whom I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. The guide +assured me they would perform the journey, going and coming, in a +month. The appointed period passed, and no accounts of them; and week +after week, until I at last despaired of ever seeing them in life. +At the end of about two months they made their appearance, but in +so deplorable a state of emaciation that we could scarcely recognise +them. + +The roads proved so bad that they were nearly a month on their way +going, and consequently they had consumed almost all the provisions +they had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty supply not +allowing him to afford them any assistance for their return, they +commenced their journey homeward with one meal a day, which they +continued until all was gone, when they fed on their dogs; and they +finally arrived at the house without having tasted any kind of food +for three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the greatest pity; +the interpreter, who came to tell me of their arrival, was in tears. +No time was lost in administering relief; but the greatest caution +was necessary in administering it, or the consequences might have been +fatal. + +I was mortified to find, on the approach of spring, that my stock of +goods did not admit of supplying the interior; and I was consequently +compelled to relinquish the advantages that had cost us so much to +acquire. Without goods we could not, of course, maintain our position +in that quarter. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY--GOVERNOR'S INSTRUCTIONS--MY REPORT + TO THE COMMITTEE--RECOMMEND THE ABANDONMENT OF UNGAVA + SETTLEMENT--SUCCESS OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED + BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON--RETURN BY SEA TO FORT + CHIMO--NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER--INHUMAN + AND IMPOLITIC MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR--CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT + THE POST. + + +Immediately on the opening of the navigation I started for Esquimaux +Bay, with two Indians, in a small canoe, and without any of the +usual conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered to the southern +department, followed in another canoe. + +Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the receipt of despatches +just come to hand by the ship. The Governor's letter apprized me +that a vessel would be sent round to Ungava every alternate year; and +strictly enjoined me to have no further communication with Esquimaux +Bay _overland_, "as much unnecessary expense was incurred by these +journeys." Thus were we consigned to our fate for a period of two +years with as little feeling as if we had been so many cattle, and +debarred from all communication with our friends, by word or letter, +merely to save a trifling expense! + +Could the Honourable Company be swayed by so paltry a consideration in +subjecting us to so grievous an inconvenience? Surely not; a body of +men so respectable could neither have authorized nor sanctioned such +sordid parsimony. The generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson +alone, and to him be the honour ascribed. + +Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the utter hopelessness of the +Ungava adventure, I transmitted a report to the Governor and Committee +on the subject; recommending the abandonment of the settlement +altogether, as the enormous expense of supplying us by sea precluded +the idea of any profit being ever realised; while it was quite evident +the Company's benevolent views toward the Esquimaux could not be +carried into effect. The extreme poverty and barrenness of their +country, and their pertinacious adherence to their seal-skin dresses, +which no argument of ours could induce them to exchange for the +less comfortable articles of European clothing, were insurmountable +obstacles. The Honourable Company, while they wished to supply the +wants of the Esquimaux, still urged the expediency of securing the +trade of the interior. + +A circumstance that came to my knowledge in the course of the winter +promised the attainment of that object. I learned from an old Indian, +that the fall and rapid I met with on my way to the sea the preceding +season, could be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. My +informant had never seen those falls himself, and could, from the +oral report he had heard, give but a very imperfect description of the +route. Still, I determined on making another attempt to explore the +whole river, knowing well, that if I succeeded in discovering the new +route, there could be no further difficulty in supplying the interior. +Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by letters from my friend Mr. +Dease, that the expedition in which he had been engaged was crowned +with success;--the long sought-after north-west passage being at +length laid open to the _knowledge_ of mankind, and a question, that +at one time excited the enterprise of the merchant and the curiosity +of the learned, settled beyond a doubt. + +While on this subject, I cannot help expressing my surprise at the +manner Mr. Dease's name is mentioned in the published narrative of +the expedition, where he is represented as being employed merely +as purveyor. It might have been said with equal propriety that Mr. +Simpson was employed merely as astronomer. The fact is, the services +of both gentlemen were equally necessary; and to the prudence, +judgment, and experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of +the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no less than to the +astronomical science of Mr. Simpson. + +Having finished my correspondence, I embarked for Fort Chimo, on board +a brig that had been recently built for the trade of this district +and that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded no adventure worthy of +notice; icebergs we saw in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us, +but having no desire to form a close acquaintance with them, we kept +at a respectful distance; and finally entered the Ungava River, on the +24th of August, at so early an hour of the day, that we expected to +reach the post ere night-fall. + +We were doomed to disappointment. As we ascended the river, the breeze +fell, and darkness set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Presently, +however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing could be seen a yard +off. In this dilemma our safest course would have been to anchor, +but unfortunately that part of the river was the most unfavourable +possible for our purpose, from the extraordinary strength of the +current, and the rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed quite +at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel struck, altered her course +a little, struck again, put about, and struck again and again. The +anchor was dropped as the only chance of escaping the dangers in which +we were involved. The anchor dragged a short time, and finally caught +apparently in a cleft of the rocks. + +Soon after the tide began to flow, and we fancied our dangers over; +but the crisis was not yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down +with the current of the river with such overwhelming velocity, that +we expected the vessel would be torn from her moorings. Two men were +placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, in spite of their utmost +exertions, she was dashed from side to side like a feather, while +the current pitched into her till the water entered the hawse-holes. +Pitching, and swinging, and dashed about in this fearful manner for +some time, the anchor was at length disengaged, and dragged along the +bottom with a grating noise, which, with the roaring of the rapid, and +the whistling of the wind through the rigging, formed a combination +of sounds that would have appalled the most resolute. The fog having +cleared away, we discovered a point projecting far into the river, +some two hundred yards below, towards which we were drifting +broadside, and rapidly nearing. The boats were got ready, to escape, +if possible, the impending catastrophe, when the vessel was suddenly +brought to with a tremendous jerk, and instantly swung round to the +tide. By this time, however, its strength was considerably abated, and +daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esquimaux who had come on board, +with a note to the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent us +with the utmost despatch. + +Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we weighed anchor, and +advanced to within three miles of the establishment, when a boat was +seen approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On coming along-side, +a rope was thrown to them, and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the +men had scrambled on board, when a sudden blast swelled our sails, and +propelled us through the water with such force, that the fore-part +of the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men floundering in the +water, and the other clinging to the rope. The latter was dragged on +board, severely bruised; but the former remained in the water for at +least two hours, and would have perished before our eyes, had he not +got hold of a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep himself +afloat. We soon anchored opposite the post, and every exertion being +made to expedite the departure of the vessel, we were in the course of +a few days left to vegetate in quiet. + +On examining the quantity of provisions I had received, I was not a +little alarmed to find it scarcely sufficient for the consumption of +one year, his Excellency's communication having acquainted me that +it was a supply for two years! Thus we were thrown on the precarious +resources of the country for life or for death; for if those resources +should fail us, we must either remain and starve on the spot, or, +abandoning the settlement, endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay and +run the risk of starving by the way. Economy so ill-timed argued +as little in favour of the Governor's judgment as of his humanity. +Admitting our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandonment +of the settlement, with all the goods and furs in it, would have +subjected the Company to a very serious loss. Every precaution, +however, was taken to provide against a contingency which involved +such serious consequences; the men were dispersed in every direction +to shift for themselves, some being supplied with guns and ammunition, +others with nets, a lake of considerable extent having been lately +discovered, which the natives reported to abound with fish. Early +in the month of December my fishermen came in with the mortifying +intelligence of the entire failure of the fishery; and soon after +a messenger arrived from the hunting party to beg a supply of +provisions, which my limited means, alas! compelled me to deny. Not +a deer had been seen, and the partridges had become so scarce of late +that they barely afforded the means of sustaining life. All I could +therefore do for my poor men was to supply them with more ammunition +and send them off again. + +While their lot was thus wretched, mine was not enviable; one solitary +meal a day was all I allowed myself and those who remained with me; +and I must do them the justice to say, that they submitted to +these privations without a murmur, being aware that it was only by +exercising the most rigid economy that our provisions could hold +out the allotted time; the arrival of the ship being an event too +uncertain to be calculated upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner, +we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, without expending much +of our imported provisions, until the arrival of the deer in the month +of March, when we fared plentifully if not sumptuously. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION--MY PROMOTION--WINTER AT + CHIMO--OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN--UNGAVA ABANDONED. + + +1841.--On the opening of the navigation I set out on another exploring +expedition. Without entering into particulars so devoid of interest, +I would merely observe that, with patience and perseverance, we +ultimately succeeded in making good our passage by the Hamilton, or +Grand River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect. + +On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the vessel from Quebec riding +at anchor--a joyful sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear +from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence of the events +that had occurred in the world for the last twelve months. The +Governor's communication acquainted me with my promotion, and +_sincerely_ congratulated me on the event. Whether I had reason or not +to doubt his sincerity, let the reader judge who knows the treatment I +had experienced at his hands. Fifteen years ago I was assured of being +in the "direct road to preferment,"--twenty years of toil and misery +have I served to obtain it. + +Considering myself, therefore, under no obligation to his Excellency, +I addressed a letter to the Directors, expressing my thanks for the +benefit they had conferred upon me, and requesting permission to visit +the land of my nativity next year. + +I was fortunate enough to find a couple of canoes at Esquimaux Bay, +sufficiently large to admit of conveying an outfit to the interior, +and equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman in charge of +the district, possessed the will and ability to promote my views. All +my arrangements at this place being completed, I set off on my return, +and was happy to find, on my arrival at the outpost, that the outfit +was rendered in safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on +the way. + +I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of October. The dreary winter +setting in immediately, we commenced the usual course of vegetative +existence; and I consider it as unnecessary as it would be +uninteresting to say anything further concerning it than that this +season passed without our being subjected to such grievous privation +as during the last. The greater part of the people being distributed +among the outposts, reduced our expenditure of provisions so much, +that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the score of starvation; and +the precautions I had taken the preceding winter enabled us not only +to indulge occasionally in the _luxuries_ of bread-and-butter, but +also to contemplate the possibility of the non-arrival of the ship +without much anxiety. + +1842.--On the opening of the navigation I again set out for Esquimaux +Bay, where I found letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome +intelligence that my request for permission to visit Britain had been +granted, and that the Directors, agreeably to my recommendation, had +determined on abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered round this +season to convey the people and property to Esquimaux Bay. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + + CLIMATE OF UNGAVA--AURORA BOREALIS--SOIL--VEGETABLE + PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--BIRDS--FISH--GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. + + +It need scarcely be observed that, in so high a latitude as that +of Ungava, the climate presents the extremes of heat and cold; the +moderate temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, the rigour of +winter being immediately succeeded by the intense heat of summer, and +_vice versa_. + +On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer was observed to rise from +10 deg. below zero to 76 deg. in the shade, the sky clear and the weather +calm; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. For ten days +previously the thermometer ranged from 15 deg. below zero to 32 deg. above, +and the weather was as boisterous as in the month of January, snowing +and blowing furiously all the time. The heat continued to increase, +till the thermometer frequently exhibited from 85 deg. to 100 deg. in the +shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, be owing in a considerable +degree to the reflection of the solar rays from the rocky surface of +the country, a great part of which is destitute of vegetation. When +the wind blows from the sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to +become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are frequently experienced +during summer, and are probably caused by the sea's being always +encumbered by ice. It is remarkable that the severest cold in this +quarter is invariably accompanied by stormy weather; whereas, in the +interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm. + +The winter may be said to commence in October; by the end of this +month the ground is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller +lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, however, and the +strength of the current, often keep Ungava River open till the month +of January. At this period I have neither seen, read, nor heard of +any locality under heaven that can offer a more cheerless abode to +civilized man than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by the ice, when +driven to and fro by the force of the tide, continually stuns the ear; +while the light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs in the air, +shrouding everything in the gloom of a dark twilight. If Pluto should +leave his own gloomy mansion _in tenebris tartari_, he might take up +his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange. + + "The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs + The effect of fire."--MILTON. + +When the river sets fast, the beauties of the winter scene are +disclosed--one continuous surface of glaring snow, with here and there +a clump of dwarf pine, of the bald summits of barren hills, from +which the violence of the winter storms sweep away even the tenacious +lichens. The winter storms are the most violent I ever experienced, +sweeping every thing before them; and often prove fatal to the Indians +when overtaken by them in places where no shelter can be found. The +year previous to my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to a +barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking their women along +with them. While engaged in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them +to make for the mainland with all possible speed. The women were soon +exhausted by their exertions, and, unable to proceed farther, were +at length covered by the snow, and left to their fate. As soon as the +fury of the storm abated, the men went in search of them; but in vain; +they were never found. + +During winter the sky is frequently illuminated by the Aurora Borealis +even in the day-time; and I have observed that when the south wind, +the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, the frost-bound +regions of Canada and Labrador,) blows for any length of time, the sky +becomes clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, however, does the +east wind blow, which, being charged with the vapours of the Atlantic, +induces mild weather even in midwinter, than they again dart forth +their coruscations--more brightly at first, afterwards more faintly, +till, if the wind continue, they again disappear. + +These phenomena seem to warrant the conclusion that the aurora is +produced by the evolving of the electric fluid, through the collision +of bodies of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are observable in +New Caledonia; the east wind, passing over the glaciers of the Rocky +Mountains, cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to cause frost +every month in summer; the west wind, on the contrary, causes heat; +and there, as in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by what may +be termed the Mountain Aurora (_Aurora Montium_?) + +During my residence of five years at Ungava, the thermometer fell +twice to 53 deg. below zero; and frequently ranged from 38 deg. to 48 deg. for +several days together; the extreme heat rose to 100 deg. at noon in the +shade. + +The soil of Ungava consists principally of decayed lichens, which form +a substance resembling the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In this +soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant which I have not seen in +any other part of the continent, although it may elsewhere be found in +similar situations. In the low grounds along the banks of rivers, the +soil is generally deep and fertile enough to produce timber of a large +size; in the valleys are found clumps of wood, which become more and +more stunted as they creep up the sides of the sterile hills, till at +length they degenerate into lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the +sea-coast consist entirely of larch; which also predominates in the +interior, intermixed with white pine, and a few poplars and birches. +The hardy willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle of soil +to take root in; and the plant denominated Labrador tea, flourishes +luxuriantly in its native soil. In favourable seasons the country +is covered with every variety of berries--blueberry, cranberry, +gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry, ground raspberry +(_rubus arcticus_), and the billberry (_rubus chamaemorus_), a +delicious fruit produced in the swamps, and bearing some resemblance +to the strawberry in shape, but different in flavour and colour, being +yellow when ripe. Liquorice root is found on the banks of South River. + +To enumerate the varieties of animals is an easy task; the extremely +barren nature of the country, and the severity of the climate, prove +so unfavourable to the animal kingdom, that only a few of the more +hardy species are to be found here: viz.-- + +Black, brown, grisly, and polar bears. + +Black, silver, cross, blue, red, and white foxes. + +Wolves, wolverines, martens, and the beaver (but extremely rare). + +Otters, minks, musk-rats, ermine. + +Arctic hares, rabbits, rein-deer; and the lemming, in some parts of +the interior. + +When we consider the great extent of country that intervenes between +Ungava and the plains of the "far west," it seems quite inexplicable +that the grisly bear should be found in so insulated a situation, +and none in the intermediate country: the fact of their being here, +however, does not admit of a doubt, for I have traded and sent to +England several of their skins. The information I have received from +the natives induces me to think that the varieties of colour in bears +mark them as distinct species, and not the produce of the same litter, +as some writers affirm. Why, otherwise, do we not find the different +varieties in Canada, where the grisly bear has never been seen? The +sagacious animals seem to be well aware of their generic affinity, +since they are often seen together, sharing the same carcass, and +apparently on terms of the most intimate fellowship. + +It is a singular circumstance, that she-bears with young are seldom +or never killed; at least it is so extraordinary a circumstance, that +when it does happen, it is spoken of for years afterwards. She must, +therefore, retire to her den immediately after impregnation; and +cannot go above three months with young; as instances have occurred +of their being found suckling their young in the month of January, at +which period they are not larger than the common house-rat, presenting +the appearance of animals in embryo, yet perfect in all their parts. + +Bruin prepares his hybernal dormitory with great care, lining it with +hay, and stopping up the entrance with the same material; he enters it +in October, and comes out in the month of April. He passes the winter +alone, in a state of morbid drowsiness, from which he is roused +with difficulty; and neither eats nor drinks, but seems to derive +nourishment from sucking his paws. He makes his exit in spring +apparently in as good condition as when he entered; but a few days' +exposure to the air reduces him to skin and bone. + +The natives pay particular attention to the appearance presented by +the unoccupied dens they may discover in summer: if bruin has removed +his litter of the preceding winter, he intends to reoccupy the same +quarters; if he allows it to remain, he never returns; and the hunter +takes his measures accordingly. + +The black bear shuns the presence of man, and is by no means +a dangerous animal; the grisly bear, on the contrary, commands +considerable respect from the "lord of the creation," whom he attacks +without hesitation. By the natives, the paw of a grisly bear is +considered as honourable a trophy as the scalp of a human enemy. + +The reports I have had, both from natives and white trappers, confirm +the opinion that certain varieties of the fox belong to the same +species,--such as the black, silver, cross, and red; all of which have +been found in the same nest, but never any of the white or blue. The +former, too, are distinguished for their cunning and sagacity; while +the latter are very stupid, and fall an easy prey to the trapper; a +circumstance of itself sufficient to prove a difference of species. + +There are two varieties of the rein-deer,--the migratory, and the +stationary or wood-deer: the latter is a much larger animal, but not +abundant; the former are extremely numerous, migrating in herds at +particular seasons, and observing certain laws on their march, from +which they seldom deviate. The does make their appearance at Ungava +River generally in the beginning of March, coming from the west, and +directing their course over the barren grounds near the coast, until +they reach George's River, where they halt to bring forth their young, +in the month of June. Meantime the bucks, being divided into separate +herds, pursue a direct course through the interior, for the same +river, and remain scattered about on the upper parts of it until the +month of September, when they assemble, and proceed slowly towards +the coast. By this time the does move onward towards the interior, the +fawns having now sufficient strength to accompany them, and follow the +banks of George's River until they meet the bucks, when the rutting +season commences, in the month of October; the whole then proceed +together, through the interior, to the place whence they came. In the +same manner, I have been informed, the deer perform their migratory +circuits everywhere; observing the same order on their march, +following nearly the same route unless prevented by accidental +circumstances, and observing much the same periods of arrival and +departure. + +The colour of the rein-deer is uniformly the same, presenting no +variety of "spotted black and red." In summer it is a very dark grey, +approaching to black, and light grey in winter. The colour of the doe +is of a darker shade than that of the buck, whose breast is perfectly +white in winter. Individuals are seen of a white colour at all seasons +of the year. The bucks shed their antlers in the month of December; +the does in the month of January. A few bucks are sometimes to be +met with who roam about apart from the larger herds, and are in prime +condition both in summer and winter. These _solitaires_ are said to be +unsuccessful candidates for the favours of the does, who, having +been worsted by their more powerful rivals in _contentione amoris_, +withdraw from the community, and assuming the cowl, ever after eschew +female society; an opinion which their good condition at all seasons +seems to corroborate. + +The rein-deer is subject to greater annoyance from flies than any +other animal in the creation; neither change of season nor situation +exempts them from this torture. Their great persecutor is a species +of gad-fly, (_oestries tarandi_,) that hovers around them in clouds +during summer, and makes them the instruments of their own torture +throughout the year. The fly, after piercing the skin of the deer, +deposits its eggs between the outer and inner skin, where they are +hatched by the heat of the animal's body. In the month of March, the +chrysalides burst through the skin, and drop on the ground, when they +may be seen crawling in immense numbers along the deer paths as they +pass from west to east. + +The only birds observed in winter are grouse, ptarmigan, a small +species of wood-pecker, butcher-bird, and the diminutive tomtit. We +are visited in summer by swans, geese, ducks, eagles, hawks, ravens, +owls, robins, and swallows. The eider-duck, so much prized for its +down, is found in considerable numbers. The geese are of a most +inferior kind, owing, I suppose, to the poor feeding the country +affords; when they arrive in summer the ice is often still solid, when +they betake themselves to the hills, and feed on berries. + +The lakes produce only white fish, trout and carp. We took now and +then a few salmon in the river, and there is no doubt that this fish +abounds on the coast. + +In the sea are found the black whale, porpoise, sea-horse, seal, and +the narwal or sea unicorn; the horn of the latter, solid ivory, is a +beautiful object. The largest I procured measured six feet and a half +in length, four inches in diameter at the root, and a quarter of an +inch at the point. It is of a spiral form, and projects from near the +extremity of the snout; it presents a most singular appearance when +seen moving along above the surface of the water, while the animal is +concealed beneath. + +The geological features of the country present so little variety, that +one versed in that interesting science would experience but little +difficulty in describing them; a mere outline, however, is all I can +venture to present. + +Along the sea-coast the formation is granitic syenite; then, +proceeding about forty miles in the direction of South River, syenite +occurs, which, about sixty miles higher up, runs into green stone: +very fine slate succeeds. At the height of land dividing the waters +that flow in different directions, into Esquimaux and Ungava Bays, the +formation becomes syenitic schist, and continues so to within a short +distance of the great fall on Hamilton River; when syenite succeeds; +then gneiss; and along the shores of Esquimaux Bay syenitic gneiss, +and pure quartz: lumps of black and red hornblend are met with +everywhere. The country is covered with boulders rounded off by the +action of water, most of which are different from the rocks _in situ_, +and must have been transported from a great distance, some being of +granite--a rock not to be found in this quarter. + +The rugged and precipitous banks of George's River are occasionally +surmounted by hills; at the base of all these elevations, deep +horizontal indentures appear running in parallel lines opposite each +other on either side of the river,--a circumstance which indicates the +action of tides and waves at a time when the other parts of the land +were submerged, and the tops of those hills formed islands. Along +certain parts of the coast of Labrador rows of boulders are perceived +lying in horizontal lines; the lowest about two hundred yards distant +from high-water mark, while the farthest extend to near the crest of +the adjacent hills. Several deep cavities and embankments of sand are +observed in the interior, bearing unequivocal marks of having been, at +one time, subject to the influence of the sea. + +I shall conclude these few remarks by observing that, whatever +conclusions the geologist may arrive at as to the remote or recent +elevation of this country, the tops of the higher hills appear to have +been formerly islands in the sea; and I doubt not but the same may +be said of the higher lands on every part of the Arctic regions. +Admitting this to have been the case, it contributes to confirm the +theory of that distinguished philosopher, Sir Charles Lyell, as to +the cause of the changes that have taken place in the climate of the +northern regions. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + THE NASCOPIES--THEIR RELIGION--MANNERS AND + CUSTOMS--CLOTHING--MARRIAGE--COMMUNITY OF GOODS. + + +The Indians inhabiting the interior of Ungava, or, it may be said with +equal propriety, the interior of Labrador, are a tribe of the Cree +nation designated Nascopies, and numbering about one hundred men able +to bear arms. Their language, a dialect of the Cree or Cristeneau, +exhibits a considerable mixture of Sauteux words, with a few peculiar +to themselves. The Nascopies have the same religious belief as their +kindred tribes in every other part of the continent. They believe in +the existence of a Supreme Being, the Ruler of the universe, and the +Author of all good. They believe, also, in the existence of a bad +spirit, the author of all evil. Each is believed to be served by a +number of subordinate spirits. Sacrifices are offered to each; to the +good, by way of supplication and gratitude; to the evil, by way of +conciliation and deprecation. Their local genii are also supposed to +be possessed of the power of doing good, or inflicting evil, and are +likewise propitiated by sacrifices; the "men of medicine" are viewed +in nearly the same light. A few of them who visit the king's posts, +have been baptized, and taught to mutter something they call prayers, +and on this account are esteemed good Christians by their tutors; +while every action of their lives proves them to be as much Pagans as +ever; at least, to those who look for some _fruit_ of faith, and who +may be ignorant of the miraculous efficacy of holy water, and can form +no idea of its operation on the soul, they appear so. + +Of all the Indians I have seen, the Nascopies seem most averse to +locomotion; many of them grow up to man's estate without once visiting +a trading post. Previously to the establishment of this post they were +wont to assemble at a certain rendezvous in the interior, and deliver +their furs to some elderly man of the party, who proceeded with +them to the King's posts, or Esquimaux Bay, and traded them for such +articles as they required. So little intercourse have this people had +with the whites, that they may be still considered as unsophisticated +"children of nature," and possessed, of course, of all the virtues +ascribed to such; yet I must say, that my acquaintance with them +disclosed nothing that impressed me with a higher opinion of them than +of my own race, corrupted as they are by the arts of civilized life. + +The Nascopie freely indulges all the grosser passions of his nature; +he has no term in his language to express the sensation of shame; the +feeling and the word are alike unknown. Many circumstances might be +adduced in proof of this, but I have no desire to disgust the reader. +Previously to our arrival here, there was not such an article of +domestic utility known among them as a spoon; the unclean hand +performed every office. They take their meals sitting in a circle +round a kettle, and commence operations by skimming off the fat with +their hands, and lapping it up like dogs; then every one helps himself +to the solids, cutting, gnawing, and tearing until the whole is +devoured, or until repletion precludes further exertions, when, like +the gorged beast of prey, they lie down to sleep. + +The Nascopies practise polygamy more from motives of convenience than +any other--the more wives, the more slaves. The poor creatures, in +fact, are in a state of relentless slavery; every species of drudgery +devolves upon them. When they remove from camp to camp in winter, the +women set out first, dragging sledges loaded with their effects, and +such of the children as are incapable of walking; meantime the men +remain in the abandoned encampment smoking their pipes, until they +suppose the women are sufficiently far advanced on the route to reach +the new encampment ere they overtake them. + +Arrived at the spot, the women clear the ground of snow, erect the +tents, and collect fuel; and when their arrangements are completed, +their lords step in to enjoy themselves. The sole occupation of the +men is hunting, and, in winter, fishing. They do not even carry home +the game; that duty also falls to the lot of the female, unless when +the family has been starving for some time, when the men condescend to +carry home enough for immediate use. + +The horrid practice still obtains among the Nascopies of destroying +their parents and relatives, when old age incapacitates them for +further exertion. I must, however, do them the justice to say, that +the parent himself expresses a wish to depart, otherwise the unnatural +deed would probably never be committed; for they in general treat +their old people with much care and tenderness. The son or nearest +relative performs the office of executioner,--the self-devoted victim +being disposed of by strangulation.[1] When any one dies in winter, +the body is placed on a scaffold till summer, when it is interred. + +[Footnote 1: "Quidam parentes et propinquos, priusquam annis et macie +conficiantur, velut hostias caedunt, _eorumque visceribus epulantur_." +The Nascopies do not feast on the "viscera" of their victims, nor do +I believe the inhabitants of India, or of any other country under +heaven, ever did. Yet the coincidence is singular, in other respects, +at such a distance of time and place.] + +The Nascopies depend principally on the rein-deer for subsistence,--a +dependence which the erratic habits of these animals render extremely +precarious. Should they happen to miss the deer on their passage +through the country in autumn, they experience the most grievous +inconvenience, and often privations, the succeeding winter; as +they must then draw their living from the lakes, with unremitting +toil,--boring the ice, which is sometimes from eight to nine feet +thick, for the purpose of setting their hooks, and perhaps not taking +a single fish after a day's hard work. Nevertheless, they must still +continue their exertions till they succeed, shifting their hooks from +one part of the lake to another, until every spot is searched. They +understand the art of setting nets under the ice perfectly. Towards +the latter end of December, however, the fish gain the deep water, +and remain still to the latter end of March. Not a fish enters the net +during this period. + +Partridges are very numerous in certain localities, but cannot be +trusted to as a means of living, as every part of the country affords +them food, and when much annoyed at one place they move off to +another. + +It will be seen from the foregoing remarks, that the Nascopies, like +all other erratic tribes, are subject to the vicissitudes their mode +of life necessarily involves; at one time wallowing in abundance, at +another dying of want. Fortunately for themselves, they are at present +the most independent of the whites of any other Indians on this +continent, the Esquimaux excepted. The few fur-bearing animals their +barren country affords are so highly prized, that the least exertion +enables them to procure their very limited wants; and the skin of +the rein-deer affords them the most comfortable clothing they could +possess. They have a particular art, too, of dressing this skin, so as +to render it as soft and pliable as chamois, in which state it becomes +a valuable article of trade. + +As trading posts, however, are now established on their lands, I doubt +not but artificial wants will, in time, be created, that may become +as indispensable to their comfort as their present real wants. All the +arts of the trader are exercised to produce such a result, and those +arts never fail of ultimate success. Even during the last two years of +my management, the demand for certain articles of European manufacture +had greatly increased. + +The winter dress of the Nascopie consists of a jacket of deer-skin, +close all round, worn with the hair next the skin, and an over-coat of +the same material reaching to his knees, the hair outside. This coat +overlaps in front, and is secured by a belt, from which depends his +knife and smoking-bag. A pair of leather breeches, and leggings, +or stockings of cloth, protect his legs, though but imperfectly, +from the cold; his hands, however, are well defended by a pair of +gauntlets that reach his elbows; and on his head he wears a cap +richly ornamented with bear's and eagle's claws. His long thick hair, +however, renders the head-gear an article of superfluity,--but it +is the fashion. The dress of the women consists of a square piece of +dressed deer-skin, girt round them by a cloth or worsted belt, and +fastened over their shoulders by leather straps; a jacket of leather, +and cloth leggings. I have also observed some of them wearing a +garment in imitation of a gown. The leather dresses, both of men and +women, are generally painted; and often display more taste than one +would be disposed to give them credit for. + +The travelling equipage of the Nascopies consists of a small leather +tent, a deer-skin robe with the hair on, a leather bag with some down +in it, and a kettle. When he lies down he divests himself of his upper +garment, which he spreads under him; then, thrusting his limbs into +the down bag, and rolling himself up in his robe, he draws his knees +up close to his chin; and thus defended, the severest cold does not +affect him. + +Considering the manner in which their women are treated, it can +scarcely be supposed that their courtships are much influenced by +sentiments of love; in fact, the tender passion seems unknown to the +savage breast. When a young man attains a certain age, and considers +himself able to provide for a wife--if the term may be so debased--he +acquaints his parents with his wish, and gives himself no further +concern about the matter, until they have concluded the matrimonial +negotiations with the parents of _their_, not _his_ intended, whose +sentiments are never consulted on the occasion. The youth then +proceeds to his father-in-law's tent, and remains there for a +twelvemonth; at the end of this period he may remain longer or depart, +and he is considered ever after as an independent member of the +community, subject to no control. Marriages are allowed between near +relatives; cousins are considered as brothers and sisters, and are +addressed by the same terms. It is not considered improper to marry +two sisters, either in succession or both at the same time. + +The Nascopies have certain customs in hunting peculiar to themselves. +If a wounded animal escape, even a short distance, ere he drops, he +becomes the property of the person who first reaches him, and not of +the person who shot him; or if the animal be mortally wounded and do +not fall immediately, and another Indian fire and bring him down, the +last shot gains the prize. + +In their intercourse with us the Nascopies evince a very different +disposition from the other branches of the Cree family, being selfish +and inhospitable in the extreme; exacting rigid payment for the +smallest portion of food. Yet I do not know that we have any right to +blame a practice in them, which they have undoubtedly learned from +us. What do they obtain from us without payment? Nothing:--not a shot +of powder,--not a ball,--not a flint. But whatever may be said of +their conduct towards the whites, no people can exercise the laws +of hospitality with greater generosity, or show less selfishness, +towards each other, than the Nascopies. The only part of an animal the +huntsman retains for himself is the head; every other part is given up +for the common benefit. Fish, flesh, and fowl are distributed in the +same liberal and impartial manner; and he who contributes most seems +as contented with his share, however small it may be, as if he had had +no share in procuring it. In fact, a community of goods seems almost +established among them; the few articles they purchase from us shift +from hand to hand, and seldom remain more than two or three days in +the hands of the original purchaser. + +The Nascopies, surrounded by kindred tribes, are strangers to the +calamities of war, and are consequently a peaceful, harmless people; +yet they cherish the unprovoked enmity of their race towards the poor +Esquimaux, whom they never fail to attack, when an opportunity offers +of doing so with impunity. Our presence, however, has had the effect +of establishing a more friendly intercourse between them; and to the +fact that many of the Esquimaux have of late acquired fire-arms, and +are not to be attacked without some risk, may be ascribed, in no small +degree, the present forbearance of their enemies. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + THE ESQUIMAUX--PROBABLE ORIGIN--IDENTITY OF LANGUAGE + FROM LABRADOR TO BEHRING'S STRAITS--THEIR + AMOURS--MARRIAGES--RELIGION--TREATMENT + OF PARENTS--ANECDOTE--MODE OF PRESERVING + MEAT--AMUSEMENTS--DRESS--THE IGLOE, OR SNOW-HOUSE--THEIR + CUISINE--DOGS--THE SLEDGE--CAIAK, OR CANOE--OUIMIAK, OR + BOAT--IMPLEMENTS--STATURE. + + +The Esquimaux are so totally different in physiognomy and person, in +language, manners, and customs, from all the other natives of America, +that there can be no doubt that they belong to a different branch of +the human race. The conformation of their features, their stature, +form, and complexion, approximate so closely to those of the northern +inhabitants of Europe, as to indicate, with some degree of certainty, +their identity of origin. In the accounts I have read of the maritime +Laplanders, I find many characteristics common to both tribes: the +Laplander is of a swarthy complexion,--so is the Esquimaux; the +Laplander is distinguished by high cheek-bones, hollow cheeks, pointed +chin, and large mouth,--so is the Esquimaux; the Laplander wears a +thick beard,--so does the Esquimaux; the Laplander's hair is long and +black,--so is that of the Esquimaux; the Laplanders are, for the most +part, short of stature,--so are the Esquimaux; and the dress, food, +and lodging of both peoples are nearly the same. The last coincidence +may possibly arise from similarity of location and climate; and, taken +by itself, would afford no certain proof of identity of origin; but +taken in connexion with the aforementioned characteristics, I think +the conclusion is irresistible that the Laplanders and Esquimaux are +of the same race. + +That the Esquimaux and the natives of Greenland are also of a kindred +race, is a fact ascertained beyond a doubt, from the reports of the +Moravian Missionaries, who have settlements among both. + +The way in which they must have passed from the one continent to the +other, must now be left to conjecture. There is nothing improbable +in the supposition that some of them might have been drifted out to +sea by stress of weather, and wafted to the shores of Greenland; +whence some might, in course of time, remove to the opposite coast +of America. From the southern extremity of Labrador to Behring's +Straits, the Esquimaux language is the same, differing only in the +pronunciation of a few words. We had a native of Hudson's Bay with us, +who had accompanied Captain Franklin to the McKenzie and Coppermine +Rivers, and who assured us that he understood the Esquimaux of that +quarter, and those of Ungava, although some thousands of miles apart, +as well as his own tribe. + +In manners, customs, and dress, there is a like similarity. The +Esquimaux have ever remained a distinct people; the other natives of +America seeming to consider them more as brutes than human beings, and +never approaching them unless for the purpose of knocking them on the +head. Every one's hand is against them. I have seen Esquimaux scalps, +even among the timid _tetes des boules_ of Temiscamingue; yet no +people seem more disposed to live at peace with their neighbours, if +only they were allowed. Circumstanced as they are, however, they are +likely to suffer hostile aggression for a long time. Even a coward, +with a musket in his hand, is generally an overmatch for a brave man +with only a bow or a sling; but once possessed of fire-arms, they will +teach their enemies to respect them, for they will undoubtedly have +the advantage of superior courage and resolution. + +The Esquimaux is not easily excited to anger; but his wrath once +roused, he becomes furious: he foams like a wild boar, rolls his eyes, +gnashes his teeth, and rushes on his antagonist with the fury of a +beast of prey. In the winter of 1840, a quarrel arose between two +individuals about the sex, which led to a fight; the struggle was +continued for a time with tooth and nail; when one of the parties at +length got hold of his knife, and stabbed his adversary in the belly. +The bowels protruded, yet the wounded man never desisted, until loss +of blood and repeated stabs compelled him to yield the contest and +his life. Gallantry seems to be the main cause of quarrels among them. +Strange! that this passion should exercise such an influence in a +climate, and, as one would be led to suppose, on constitutions so +cold; yet nothing is more certain than that the enamoured Esquimaux +will risk life and limb in the pursuit of his object. + +With unmarried women there is no risk, as they are entirely free from +control; not so with the married, who are under strict surveillance; +but the husband's consent asked and obtained--which not seldom +happens--saves the gallant's head, and the lady's reputation. + +Their courtships are conducted in much the same manner as among the +inland Indians, the choice of partners being entirely left to the +parents. Some are affianced in childhood, and become man and wife +in early youth: I have seen a boy of fourteen living with his wife +who was two years younger. There are no marriage festivals, and no +ceremonies of any kind are observed at their nuptials. Polygamy is +allowed, _ad libitum_; and the husband exercises his authority as +husband, judge, or executioner; no one having any right to interfere. +Should, however, the woman consider herself ill-treated, she flees to +her parents, with whom she remains till an explanation takes place. +If it lead to a reconciliation, the parties are reunited; if not, the +woman may form a new connexion whenever she pleases. + +I know not whether the Esquimaux can be said to have any idea of +religion, as the term is generally understood. The earth, say they, +was in the beginning covered with water, which having subsided, man +appeared--a spontaneous creation. Aglooktook is the name of the man +who first created fish and animals: chopping a tree which overhung +the sea, the chips that fell into that element became fish; those +that fell on the land, animals. Their paradise is beneath the great +deep; those who have lived a good life, proceed to a part of the sea +abounding with whales and seals, where, free from care and toil, they +fare sumptuously on raw flesh and blubber, _in secula_ _seculorum_. +The wicked, on the contrary, are condemned to take up their abode in a +"sea of troubles," where none of the delicacies enjoyed by the blessed +are to be found; and even the commonest necessaries are procured with +endless toil, and pain, and disappointment. Although the "tomakhs," +or dead men, become the inhabitants of the sea, they indulge in the +pleasures of the chase on their old element, whenever they please; and +are often heard calling to each other while in pursuit of the deer. + +The Esquimaux have their "men of medicine," in whose preternatural +powers they place the most implicit confidence; by working on the +superstitious fears of the people, these impostors obtain much +authority. They are allowed to take the lead in every affair of +importance; and, in short, all their movements are, in a great +measure, regulated by these harlequins, who appear to be the only +chiefs among them. + +They dispose of their dead by placing them on the rocks, and covering +them over with ice or stones; these tombs prove but feeble barriers +against the wolves and other beasts of prey, who soon carry off the +bodies. The property belonging to the deceased is placed by the side +of his grave;--his caiak, or skin canoe, his bows, arrows, and spears. +Thus equipped, the _emigrant_ spirit cannot find itself at a loss on +arriving at a better country! + +It is said by some that the Esquimaux abandon their aged parents: +from inquiry, as well as observation, I am led to believe there is +no foundation for the charge. It is not reasonable to expect that +the more refined feelings of humanity should be found in the breast +of a savage, or that he should honour his father and mother in the +same degree as he whose principles are moulded by the precepts +of Christianity; yet I must do them the justice to say, that they +appeared to me to treat their parents with as much kindness, at least, +as any other savage nation I have met with. They do not deny, however, +that old people no longer able to provide for themselves, and without +any relative to care for them, are sometimes left to perish. + +No people suffer more from hunger than the Esquimaux who inhabit +the shores of Ungava Bay; seals being extremely scarce in the winter +season, and no fish to be found; so that the poor creatures are +often reduced to the most revolting expedients to preserve life. An +Esquimaux, who had been about the post for two years, proceeded, in +the winter of 1839, to join some of his relatives along the coast. +When he returned in the ensuing spring, I observed that his mother +and one of his children were missing. On inquiring what had become of +them, he replied, that they had been starved to death, and that he and +the rest of his family would have shared their fate, had it not been +for the sustenance the bodies afforded. + +The Esquimaux always pass the winter near the element that yields them +their principal subsistence; and as they are unacquainted with the +use of snow-shoes, they cannot follow the deer any distance from the +coast. As soon as the rivers are free from ice in summer, they proceed +inland and find abundance of food. Their manner of preserving their +meat is quite characteristic. When an animal is killed the bowels +are extracted, then the fore and hind quarters are cut off, and being +placed inside the carcass, are secured by skewers of wood run through +the flesh. The whole is then deposited under the nearest cleft +of rock, and stones are built round so as to secure it from the +depredations of wild animals until the hunters return to the coast; +when the meat is in high flavour, and considered fit for the palate of +an Esquimaux epicure. + +The Esquimaux do not share their provisions as the Nascopies do, +although they relieve each other's wants when their means can afford +it: each individual engaged in the chase retains his own game, his +claim being ascertained by distinctive marks on the arrows. When a +whale is killed a rigid fast is observed for twenty-four hours, not in +gratitude to Providence, but in honour of the whale, which is highly +displeased when this is neglected, studiously avoiding the harpoon +afterwards, and even visiting the offender with sickness and other +misfortunes. + +Should the summer and fall hunt prove successful, the Esquimaux is one +of the happiest animals in the creation. He passes his dreary winter +without one careful or anxious thought; he eats his fill and lies +down to sleep, and then rises to eat again. In this manner they pass +the greater part of their time; night and day are the same, eating +and sleeping their chief enjoyments. When, however, they do rouse +their dormant faculties to exertion, they seem to engage with great +good-will in the few amusements they have, the principal of which +is playing ball, men and women joining in the game. Two parties are +opposed, the one driving the ball with sticks towards the goal, +the other driving it in the opposite direction; in short, a game of +shinty. They have dancing too,--ye gods! such dancing! Two rows of men +and women, sometimes only of one sex, stand opposite to each other, +exhibiting no other motion in their dancing than raising their +shoulders with a peculiar jerk, bending their knees so as to give +their whole bodies, from the knee upwards, the same motion, and +grinning horribly at each other, while not a foot stirs. + +As to the music to which this _dance_ is performed, I know not well +how to describe it. By inflating and depressing the lungs so as +to create a convulsive heaving of the breast, a sound is produced, +somewhat similar to the groans of a person suffering from suffocation; +and it is to this sound they grin, and jerk their shoulders. The whole +performance is quite in keeping; the music worthy of the dancing, the +dancing worthy of the music. They have boxing too, but do not practise +the art after the fashion of the Cribs and Coopers; they disdain to +parry off the blow; each strikes in turn with clenched fist; the +blow is given behind the ear, and, as soon as one of the parties +acknowledges himself defeated, the combat ceases. They are also adepts +at wrestling; I have witnessed frequent contests between them and the +inland Indians, when the latter were invariably floored. + +No one enjoys a joke better than an Esquimaux, and when his risibility +is excited he laughs with right good will, evincing in this, as in +every other respect, the difference of disposition between them and +the Indians, whose rigid features seldom betray their feelings. Much +the same diversity of character and disposition is to be observed +among the Esquimaux as among other barbarous tribes. Some instances +of disinterested kindness and generosity fell under my notice while +residing among them, that would have done honour to civilized man. + +An Esquimaux who had attached himself to the establishment from the +time of our first arrival at Ungava, kept a poor widow and her three +orphans with him for several years, and seemed to make no difference +between them and the members of his own family. It must be +acknowledged, however, that the unhappy widows seldom fall into so +good hands; their fate is the most wretched that can be imagined, +unless they have children that can provide for them. In years of +scarcity they are rejected from the community, and hover about the +encampments like starving wolves, picking up whatever chance may +throw in their way, until hunger and cold terminate their wretched +existence. + +Whatever may be said of the awkwardness of the Esquimaux dress, it +must be allowed to be the best adapted to the climate that could be +used: a pair of boots so skilfully sewed as to exclude the water, and +lined with down, or the fine hair of the rein-deer, protects the feet +from wet and cold; two pairs of trousers, the inner having the hair +next the skin; and two coats or tunics of deer or seal skin, the outer +having a large hood that is drawn over the head in stormy weather, +and a pair of large mits, complete the dress. The women also "wear +the breeks," their dress being similar to that of the men in every +respect, with this difference, that the female has a long flap +attached to the hind part of her coat, and falling down to her +heels; a most extraordinary ornament, giving her the appearance of +an enormous tadpole. This tail, however, has its use; when she has +occasion to sit down on the cold rocks she folds it up and makes a +seat of it. + +In the winter season the Esquimaux live in huts built of snow; and +we may imagine what must have been the necessity and distress that +could first have suggested to a human being the idea of using such +a material as a means of protecting himself from cold. Be that as it +may, the snow _igloe_ affords not only security from the inclemency +of the weather, but more comfort than either stone or wooden building +without fire. The operation requires considerable tact and experience, +and is always performed by the men, two being required for it, one +outside and the other inside. + +Blocks of snow are first cut out with some sharp instrument from the +spot that is intended to form the floor of the dwelling, and raised +on edge, inclining a little inward around the cavity. These blocks +are generally about two feet in length, two feet in breadth, and +eight inches thick, and are joined close together. In this manner the +edifice is erected, contracting at each successive tier, until there +only remains a small aperture at the top, which is filled by a slab of +clear ice, that serves both as a keystone to the arch, and a window to +light the dwelling. An embankment of snow is raised around the wall, +and covered with skins, which answers the double purpose of beds +and seats. The inside of the hut presents the figure of an arch or +dome; the usual dimensions are ten or twelve feet in diameter, and +about eight feet in height at the centre. Sometimes two or three +families congregate under the same roof, having separate apartments +communicating with the main building, that are used as bedrooms. The +entrance to the igloe is effected through a winding covered passage, +which stands open by day, but is closed up at night by placing slabs +of ice at the angle of each bend, and thus the inmates are perfectly +secured against the severest cold. + +The Esquimaux use no fuel in winter; their stone lamps afford +sufficient heat to dry their boots and clothes, or warm their blubber +and raw meat when they are so inclined. They are inured to cold by +early habit; the children are carried about in the hoods of their +mothers' jackets until three years of age; during this period they +remain without a stitch of clothing, and the little things may be +sometimes seen standing up in their nests, exposing themselves in the +coldest weather, without appearing to suffer any inconvenience from +it. The Esquimaux never sleep with their clothes on, not even when +without any other shelter than the cleft of a rock. + +It is well known that they eat their food, whether fish or flesh, +generally in a raw state; hence their appellation, "Ashkimai," in +the Cree and Sauteux, means, eater of raw meat, and is doubtless +the origin of the name Esquimaux first applied by the earlier French +discoverers, and since then passed into general use. They sometimes, +indeed, warm their food in a stone kettle over a stone lamp, but they +seem to relish it equally well when cut warm from the carcase of an +animal recently killed, which they may be seen devouring while yet +quivering with life. + +In winter they prefer raw meat, especially fish, which is considered +a great delicacy in a frozen state; the Esquimaux stomach, in fact, +rejects nothing, raw or boiled, that affords sustenance. Like the +inland Indians, they can bear hunger for an amazing length of time, +and afterwards gorge themselves with more than brutal voracity without +suffering inconvenience by it. + +The Esquimaux breed of dogs are wolves in a domesticated state, the +same in every characteristic, save such differences as may be expected +to result from their relative conditions; the dog howls, never barks. +These animals are of the most essential service to their masters, +and are maintained at no expense. How they manage to subsist appears +inexplicable to me; not a morsel of food is ever offered to them at +the camp, and when employed hauling sledges on a journey, a small +piece of blubber given them in the evening enables them to perform the +laborious work of the ensuing day. + +From ten to fifteen dogs are employed on a long journey. They are +harnessed separately by a collar and a single trace passing over their +back, and fastened to the fore-part of the sledge. The traces are +so arranged that the dogs generally follow in a line, conducted by a +leader, who is trained to obey the word of command in an instant; the +least hesitation on his part brings the merciless whip about his ears. +The lash is about fifteen feet in length, the handle eighteen inches; +continual practice enables the Esquimaux to wield this instrument +of torture with great dexterity. The sledges are about five feet in +length and two in breadth; the runners generally shod with whalebone +or ivory, and coated over with a plaster of earth and water, which +becomes very smooth, and is renewed as often as it is worn out. + +The Esquimaux _caiak_, or canoe, is about twelve feet in length, and +two feet in breadth, and tapers off from the centre to the bow and +stern, almost to a mere point. The frame is of wood covered with +seal-skin, having an aperture in the centre which barely admits of +the stowage of the nether man. These canoes are calculated for the +accommodation of one person only; yet it is possible for a passenger +to embark upon them, if he can submit to the inconvenience--and +risk--of lying at full length on his belly, without ever stirring +hand or foot, as the least motion would upset the canoe. Instances, +however, have been known of persons conveyed hundreds of miles in this +manner. These canoes are used solely for hunting; and, by means of the +double paddle, are propelled through the water with the velocity +of the dolphin; no land animal can possibly escape when seen in the +water; the least exertion is sufficient to keep up with the rein-deer +when swimming at its utmost speed. When the animal is overtaken, it is +driven towards the spot where the huntsman wishes to land, and there +despatched by a thrust of the spear. + +The Esquimaux of this quarter have not the art of recovering their +position, when they upset. An accident of this kind is, therefore, +sure to prove fatal, unless aid be at hand. It is seldom, however, +that aid is wanting, for these accidents never happen except in the +excitement of the sport, especially harpooning whales, when there +are always a number present. The _ouimiack_, or skin-boat, is a +clumsy-looking contrivance, but not to be despised on that account; +from the buoyancy of the materials of which it is built, the ouimiack +stands a much heavier sea than our best sea-boat. This kind of craft +is rowed by women, and used for the purpose of conveying families +along the coast. + +The few implements these people use for hunting or fishing, display +much taste and ingenuity. Their caiaks are proportioned with +mathematical exactness, the paddles often tastefully inlaid with +ivory; their spears are neatly carved, and their bows are far superior +to any I have seen among the interior tribes, combining strength and +elasticity in an eminent degree. + +Their mode of capturing the white whale is extremely ingenious. A +large _dan_, or seal-skin inflated with wind, is attached to the +harpoon by a thong some twenty feet in length. The moment the fish is +struck the _dan_ is thrown overboard, and being dragged through the +water, offers so great a resistance to the movement of the fish that +it soon becomes exhausted by the exertion, and when it emerges lies +exposed on the water, to take rest ere it dive again. The Esquimaux +then approaches from behind, and often secures his game with +one thrust of the spear. The Esquimaux also uses a javelin with +considerable skill, and some are so dexterous in the use of the sling +as to bring down wild fowl on the wing. + +The complexion of the Esquimaux is swarthy; I have seen some of their +children, however, as fair as the children of the fairest people +in Europe, yet these become as dark as their parents when advanced +in years. This circumstance cannot be accounted for by filthiness +or exposure to the weather; for I have observed, on the coast of +Labrador, the descendants of an Esquimaux mother and a European father +of the third generation as dark as the pure Esquimaux; and these, too, +enjoyed the comforts of civilized life, were cleanly in their persons, +and not more exposed to the weather than others. + +The Esquimaux are low of stature, but I do not think the epithet +"dwarfish" applies to them with propriety. With the view of +ascertaining this point, I once took five men promiscuously from a +party of twenty, and found their average height to be 5 feet 5 inches. +Some individuals of the remainder measured 5 feet 7 or 8 inches, and +one exceeded 6 feet. The fact is, the Esquimaux are generally thicker +than Europeans; their peculiar dress also adds greatly to their bulk, +so that they appear shorter than they really are. They are so bound up +in their seal-skin garments that their movements are necessarily much +impeded by them, we can, therefore, form no idea of their agility; but +I do not hesitate to say that their strength exceeds that of any other +nation on the continent. + +The Esquimaux features are far from being disagreeable; some females +I observed among them whose expression of countenance was extremely +prepossessing, and who would pass for "bonnie lasses" even among the +whites, if divested of their filth and uncouth dress, and rigged out +in European habiliments. The women fasten their hair in a knot on the +crown of the head, and anoint it with rancid oil in lieu of pomatum; +they also tattoo their faces, with the view, no doubt, of enhancing +their charms in the estimation of their blubber-eating lovers. Their +teeth are remarkably white and regular; the eyes are black, and +partake more of the circular than the oval form; the cheek-bones are +prominent, forehead low, mouth large, and chin pointed. + +The Esquimaux generally enjoy good health, and no epidemic diseases, +as far as I could learn, are known among them. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + LABRADOR--ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS--MORAVIAN BRETHREN--EUROPEAN + INHABITANTS--THEIR VIRTUES--CLIMATE--ANECDOTE. + + +The country denominated Labrador, extends from Esquimaux Bay, on +the Straits of Belleisle, to the extremity of the continent, Cape +Chudleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior is +inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers and Nascopies, +members of the Cree family. The coast was inhabited at one time by +Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now peopled by a mongrel race +of Esquimaux half-breeds, a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some English +and Canadian fishermen and trappers, who are assimilated to the +natives in manners and in mode of life. While the European inhabitants +adopt from necessity some of the native customs, the natives +have adopted so much of the European customs that their primitive +characteristics are no longer distinguishable; they cook their +victuals, drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally dress after +the European manner, especially the females, who always wear gowns. +They have also a smattering of French and English, and are great +proficients in swearing in both languages; nor do they seem ignorant +of the more refined arts of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking +everything into account, however, we may be surprised that their +manners are not more corrupt than they are. + +A number of small trading vessels from the United States hover about +the coast during summer; the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a +primary article in their outfit, and is bartered freely for such +commodities as the natives may possess. These adventurers are +generally men of loose principles, and are ever ready to take the +advantage of their customers. The natives, however, are now so well +instructed that they are more likely to cheat than be cheated. + +The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts of the coast differ in +every respect from their neighbours of the south. They have acquired +a knowledge of the Christian religion, together with some of the more +useful arts of civilized life, without losing much of their primitive +simplicity. The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors of the +Apostles," after enduring inconceivable hardships and privations for +many years, without the least prospect of success, at length succeeded +in converting the heathens, collecting them in villages around them, +and at the same time not only instructing them in things pertaining to +their eternal salvation, but in everything else that could contribute +to their comfort and happiness in the present life. There are four +different stations of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and Hebron. +At each station there is a church, store, dwelling-house for the +Missionaries, and workshops for native tradesmen. The natives are +lodged in houses built after the model of their _igloes_, being the +best adapted to the climate and circumstances of the country, where +scarcely any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm their houses by +means of stoves. + +The Brethren have much the same influence with their flocks as a +father among his children. Whatever provisions the natives collect +are placed at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed in +such a manner as to be of the most general benefit; by thus taking +the management of this important matter into their own hands, the +consequences of waste and improvidence are guarded against, and the +means of subsistence secured. + +In years of great scarcity the Brethren open their own stores, having +always an ample supply of provisions on hand, so that through their +fostering care the natives never suffer absolute want. The Brethren +have also goods for trading, which they dispose of at a moderate +profit; the profits accruing from the business are thrown into the +general funds of the institution. It is said they carry on trade in +every part of the world where they have missions. Their object is not +to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to extend the kingdom of +Christ on earth; to enlighten the nations; and by instructing them in +the knowledge of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" in this +life, and secure their eternal happiness in the life to come. + +From the paternal anxiety with which these good people watch over the +morals of their flocks, they discourage as much as possible the visits +of strangers; fearing that intercourse with them might open their eyes +to the allurements of vice. In spite of all their vigilance, however, +they have sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. It is an +established rule, moreover, with them, never to allow a stranger to +sleep within their gates; he is hospitably received and treated with +kindness and attention, but on the approach of evening he is apprised +that he must shift for himself: care is taken, however, to provide him +with lodgings in one of the native huts, where he can pass the night +in tolerable comfort. Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he +is at liberty to depart when he pleases. + +The European inhabitants of Labrador are for the most part British +sailors, who, preferring the freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the +society of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime discipline and +the endearments of the civilized fair, take up their abode for life in +this land of desolation. + +In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor settles down into the +regular grave father of a family; and by sobriety and good conduct, +may ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old age. Jack's +characteristic thoughtlessness, however, sometimes adheres to him even +when moored on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is +truly miserable. + +They pass the summer in situations favourable for catching salmon, +which they barter on the spot with the stationary traders for such +commodities as they are in want of. When the salmon fishing is at +an end, they proceed to the coast for the purpose of fishing cod for +their own consumption, and return late in autumn to the interior, +where they pass the winter trapping fur animals. + +The planters, as they are designated, live in houses which they +call "tilts," varying in shape and size according to the taste or +circumstances of the owner. These buildings are generally formed of +stakes driven into the ground, chinked with moss, and covered with +bark; they are always warmed with stoves, otherwise the _igloe_ would +afford more comfort. + +The half-breeds live in much the same way as their European +progenitors; they are generally sober and industrious; and although +unacquainted with any particular form of religious worship, they +evince, in their general deportment, a greater regard to the precepts +of Christianity than many who call themselves Christians. They are +entirely free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, and are +guilty of few of its vices; should a frail fair, however, make a _faux +pas_, it is no bar to her forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards. +The women are much fewer than the men, and on this account a greater +indulgence may be extended to their faults than otherwise would be. + +I was surprised to find them all able to read and write, although +without schools or schoolmasters. The task of teaching devolves +upon the mother; should she (what seldom happens) be unqualified, a +neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction. + +The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious and ingenious; they +are at a loss for nothing. The men make their own boats, and the women +prepare everything required for domestic convenience; almost every +man is his own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman a tailor and +shoemaker. They seem to possess all the virtues of the different races +from which they are sprung--except courage; they are generally allowed +to be more timid than the natives. But if not courageous, they possess +virtues that render courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence, +and are seldom, therefore, injured by others. + +The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing here a few years ago, by +buying out some of the petty traders, whose operations extended to the +interior, and consequently interfered with the hopeful Ungava scheme; +independently, however, of this consideration, expectations were +entertained that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable branch +of the business, from its various resources in fish, oil, and furs. +These expectations were not realized, owing to the strong competition +the Company met with; while their interference in the trade subjected +them to the charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which appears but +too well founded, considering the monopoly they possess of the whole +fur trade of the continent. "Plus le D----e a, plus il voudrait +avoir," is an old adage; nor have we any reason to believe that any +other mercantile body would be less ambitious of increasing their +gains, than their _honours_ of Fenchurch-street. + +There are several establishments along the coast, belonging chiefly to +merchants from Plymouth and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon and cod +fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic also with the planters. +This business was at one time considered very lucrative; of late +years, however, competition has increased from all quarters, and +prices in the European market have diminished, so that the profits are +now greatly reduced. + +The climate of the southern section of Labrador is by no means severe; +the thermometer, even in the coldest months of the year, seldom +falling lower than 30 deg. below zero. Along the shores of Esquimaux Bay, +a few spots have been found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes +and other culinary vegetables have been raised in abundance. Grain, +especially oats and barley, would doubtless also thrive; it so +happens, however, that the inhabitants are under the necessity of +devoting their attention to other pursuits during the season of +husbandry; so that the few that attempt "gardening," derive small +benefit from it. They sow their seed before starting for the coast, +and leave nature to do the rest. + +I shall close my description of Labrador by narrating a rather +tragical event that occurred a few years ago. An old fisherman, +formerly a sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, lived +together in the greatest amity and concord. The son, after the death +of his mother, attended to domestic affairs, and also assisted his +father at out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, however, +it was considered expedient to hire a female, so that they might give +their undivided attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained +long with them, when her charms began to make an impression on Jack's +still sensitive heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid their +addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred. + +The demon of jealousy now took possession of the father's breast; and +his conduct became so violent and cruel, that his son determined on +parting company with him and carrying off the girl. Seizing the only +boat that belonged to his father, he slipped away under cover of night +with his companion, and put ashore on the first island they found. A +violent storm arose in the course of the night, and either dashed the +boat to pieces on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus the +unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. This event happened late +in autumn. The winter passed without any word being heard of the +lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were found clasped in each +other's arms, and the young man's gun close by with fifteen notches +cut in the stock, supposed to mark the number of days they suffered +ere relieved by death. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVE AT + THE PLACE OF MY NATIVITY--CHANGES--DEPOPULATION--LONDON--THE + THAMES--LIVERPOOL--EMBARK FOR NEW YORK--ARRIVAL--THE + AMERICANS--ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TOURISTS--ENGLAND AND + AMERICA--NEW YORK. + + +1842.--I embarked for England on the 18th of August, on board a small +schooner of sixty tons, deeply laden with fish and oil. It is scarcely +necessary to observe, that the accommodations the craft afforded +were of the meanest kind; but the inconveniences weighed lightly in +the scales, when compared with the anticipated delight of visiting +one's native land. We had a very fine passage; a steady fair breeze +carried us across the broad Atlantic in a fortnight. The green hills +of Cornwall came in view on the 1st of September, and I had the +satisfaction of treading the soil of England early on the 3d. + +I remained a few days at Plymouth, to feast my eyes on scenery such as +I had long been a stranger to;--scenery, I may say, unrivalled by any +I had ever beheld at home or abroad. What spot in the world, in fact, +can present such varied charms, as the summit of Mount Edgecumb? where +the most refined taste, aided by the amplest means, has been employed +for a thousand years in beautifying the glorious landscape. To me, +just arrived from _Ungava_, the beauties of the scene were undoubtedly +heightened by the contrast; and one short visit to Mount Edgecumb +effaced from my mind the dreary prospect of bleak rocks, snow banks, +and icebergs, with which it had been so long and so sadly familiar, +and inspired it with a rapture and delight to which it had long been +a stranger. Yet this terrestrial paradise, I am informed, belongs to +a noble lord, who is a miserable invalid. Alas, for poor humanity! +neither wealth nor grandeur preserve their possessors from the ills +that flesh is heir to: and this nobleman may, perhaps, envy the lot of +the humblest individual that visits his enchanting domain. + +Bidding adieu to Plymouth, and its delightful environs, I set out +for London on the 11th of September. The desire of home, however, +now urged me forward; so that even the wonders of this wonderful +city could not detain me. Passing over the uninteresting incidents of +steamboat and railroad travelling, I arrived on the 20th of September +at the spot from which I had started twenty-three years before. The +meeting of a mother with an only son, after so long an absence, need +not be described, nor the feelings the well-known scenes of youthful +sports and youthful joys gave rise to. These scenes were still the +same, as far as the hand of Nature was concerned:--there stood the +lofty Benmore, casting his sombre shades over the glassy surface of +Lochba, as in the days of yore; there were also the same heath-covered +hills and wooded dells, well stocked with sheep and cattle; but +the human inhabitants of the woods and dells--where were they?--far +distant from their much-loved native land in the wilds of America, +or toiling for a miserable existence in the crowded cities of the +Lowlands,--a sad change! The bleating of sheep, and lowing of cattle, +for the glad voices of a numerous population, happy and contented with +their lot, loyal to their sovereign, and devotedly attached to their +chiefs! But loyalty and attachment are but fancies, which, in these +utilitarian and trading days, are flat and unprofitable; yet the +aristocratical manufacturers of beef and mutton may live to feel the +truth of the lines of Goldsmith:-- + + "But a bold peasantry, their country's pride, + When once destroyed, can never be supplied." + +I remained about six weeks in my native country, and set out for +London, where I arrived early in November,--"the beginning of the gay +season;" but it appeared to me the reverse. The city was shrouded in +a cloud of condensed smoke and fog, that shut out the light of heaven. +During three whole days the obscurity was so great that the steamboats +were prevented from plying on the Thames, and the gas-lights were +seen glimmering through the windows at noon-day. How applicable is +the description of the Roman historian to the Rome of our day:--"Caput +orbis terrarum, urbis magnificentiam augebant fora, templa, porticas, +aquaeductus, theatra, horti denique, et ejus generis alia, ad quae +vel lecta animus stupet." My time was too limited, however, and the +weather too unfavourable, to admit of my seeing all the "lions;" but +who would think of leaving London without visiting that wonderful +work--the Tunnel,--that lasting monument of the genius of a Brunell, +and of the wealth and enterprise of British merchants! + +A Cockney may well boast of his great city, its wealth, its vast +population, and its magnificent buildings; but with regard to the +Thames, of which he is equally proud,--he that has seen the St. +Lawrence, the Hudson, the McKenzie, and many others, compared to which +the Thames is but a rivulet, may be excused if he cannot view its +not very limpid waters with the same extravagant admiration as the +Londoner, who calls the Serpentine a river, and dignifies a pond of a +few roods in extent with the name of a lake. Yet there is one feature +about the Thames, of which he can scarcely be too proud, and which +is unparalleled perhaps in the world,--the often-noticed "forest of +masts," extending farther than the eye can reach, and suggesting,--not +the silence and solitude of the forests with which I have been +familiar,--but the countless population, the wealth, and the grandeur +of Britain; and the might and the majesty of civilized and industrious +man. + +I took leave of London on the 12th of September, and set out for +Liverpool by railroad, and reached it in six hours. I had sufficient +time to visit its docks, crowded by the ships of every nation; its +warehouses containing the produce of every clime; and, though last, +not least in my estimation, the splendid monument erected to the +memory of Nelson. No monument of stone or brass is necessary to +perpetuate our hero's fame; he lives in the heart of every true +Briton, and will ever live, till British oak and British prowess shall +cease to "rule the waves." + +I embarked on the 15th of December on board a sailing-packet bound +for New York. These vessels are so punctual to the hour of sailing +advertised, that, if the wind proves contrary, and blows fresh, they +are towed out to sea by steamboats. This proved to be our case, and we +kept tacking about in the "chops" of the Channel for six days, when +a fair wind sprung up that soon carried us out of sight of England. +England! great and glorious country, adieu! I shall probably never +see thee more; but in quitting thy white-cliffed shores, I quit not my +ardent attachment and veneration for thee;--and now for _thy_ eldest +daughter beyond the ocean! + +To me, who had spent so much of my lifetime in solitude, the tedium +of the voyage so much complained of was gaiety itself; with three +fellow-passengers besides the captain, the time passed very agreeably. +On board these floating palaces a passenger, in fact, finds everything +that can contribute to his comfort; the best of accommodation, the +best of fare, and the best of attendance; so that there is nothing +wanting but _stability_, to make him fancy himself in a first-class +hotel on shore. + +The weather proved extremely favourable throughout the passage; not an +incident occurred worthy of notice; and on the 17th of January, 1843, +I landed safely at New York, and thus found myself for the first time +in a foreign land; and, since fate has so decreed, among a foreign +people. Yes! they are foreigners, if being called by another name, and +living under a different form of government can make them so; yet in +language, in laws, in religion, and in blood, we are the same. Their +ancestors brought abroad with them the same sentiments of regard +and attachment to their native land as we feel; they rejoiced in the +prosperity of Britain; felt proud of her victories, and grieved at +her misfortunes. Alas, how different the feelings of the present race! +Britain may, in fact, reckon the Americans of the present day her most +inveterate foes; those who are of our own kindred, and whom therefore +we might expect to stand by us in our hour of need, regard us with +more envy and hatred than the "hereditary foes" with whom we have been +for centuries engaged in mortal strife. + +In resisting the arbitrary acts of a misguided government, the +American people only proved themselves possessed of the same noble +spirit that procured for their English progenitors the confirmation of +Magna Charta, and that hurled a tyrant from his throne. The heroes of +the American revolution nobly fought and conquered; they entered the +arena with fearful odds against them; they continued the struggle +under every disadvantage, save the sacredness of their cause; and +finally won the prize for which they contended. Of that prize the +Americans of the present day have undisputed possession; and nothing +can be more certain than that the Britons of the present day have no +wish to deprive them of it--even if they could. What cause, then, can +there be for still cherishing those feelings of animosity which the +unhappy disruption gave rise to? If our fathers quarrelled, cannot +we be friends? But are not the British themselves to blame, in +some measure, for the continuance of these irritated feelings? The +mercenary pens of prejudiced, narrow-minded individuals contribute +daily to add fuel to the flame. Our "Diaries," and our "Notes," +replete with offensive remarks, are, from the cheapness of +publication, disseminated through the length and breadth of the Union, +and are in everybody's hands; and those foolish remarks are supposed +to be the sentiments of the British nation; when they are in fact +only the sentiments of individuals whose opinions are little valued at +home, and ought to be less valued abroad. + +Circumstances taken into consideration, I think it very unfair to +draw comparisons between the social condition of young America, just +become a distinct nation, and of old England, whose empire has lasted +a thousand years. The American people are still too much occupied +with the necessaries of life to devote much of their time to its +elegancies; they are still engaged in the pursuits that ultimately +ensure wealth and real independence. Those results attained, what is +there to prevent the American gentleman from becoming as polished and +accomplished as his cousin in Britain? Can it be supposed, with the +least shadow of reason, that the short period that has elapsed since +the Revolution can have been sufficient to produce that alteration in +the character and manners of the Americans, which our travellers love +to exercise their wit upon? It is impossible. The Americans "guessed," +and "calculated," and "speculated," while they were British subjects, +just as they do now; nor have they learned to chew, and spit, and +smoke tobacco since the 4th of July, 1782. + +As to the peculiar phrases the Americans use in conversation, I am +convinced that their forefathers brought the greater part of them from +Britain, as many of those phrases are to be found in the works of +old English authors still extant. The English language as spoken in +America, is elegance itself, compared to the provincial dialects of +Britain, or even to the vile slang one hears in the streets of London. +This is a fact that every unprejudiced person who has travelled in +America must admit. + +It appears Americans find leisure, of late years, to travel and take +notes, as well as their transatlantic brethren; and, in return for the +polite attentions of our travellers, describe England and Englishmen +in the bitter language of recrimination and retort; and thus the +enmity between the mother and daughter is kept alive and perpetuated. +A publication of this kind fell lately into my hands, entitled, "The +Glory and Shame of England." The writer, said to be a _Christian +minister_, with the malignity of baser minds, sinks and keeps in the +background her "glories," and brings into relief and dwells upon her +shameful parts; representing in the most sombre colours the misery of +the "squalid" population of our cities. Would to God there were not +so much truth in the picture! His reverence, however, seems to have +lost sight of the clergyman; and in gratifying his resentment against +England, and in his zeal to kindle the same unchristian feeling in +the breasts of his countrymen, has not hesitated to sacrifice the +truth;--and he a clergyman, whose office it is to "proclaim peace on +earth, and good-will to men!" + +That there is much misery and wretchedness in England, none can deny; +but will not the well-informed philanthropist consider it rather as +our misfortune than our reproach?--consisting mainly, as that mass +of wretchedness does, of those ills which neither "kings nor laws can +cause or cure." What plan would this philanthropic divine recommend to +remove those evils, which, while he affects to deplore, he yet glories +over? Strip the nobility and land-owners of their possessions--convert +our monarchy into a republic--and the church into a "meetin ouse?" + +These _reforms_ effected, would the people of England be permanently +benefited by them? Supposing the whole arable soil of England were +divided in equal portions among its crowded inhabitants, (passing +by the injustice of robbing the present proprietors of their lawful +possessions--many of them acquired by the same hard labour or skill +by which an artisan gains his weekly wages,) would the equality +of property long continue? Would not the sloth, improvidence, and +imprudence, that ever distinguish a great proportion of mankind; and +the industry, foresight, and ambition that characterise others, soon +bring many of the equal lots into one, thus forming a great estate, +the property of an individual,--when matters would just be at the +point where his reverence found them? And then, of course, would +follow another "equitable adjustment," to relieve the wants of the +poor, whose progenitors had squandered their patrimony. Or, admitting +that the lots remained in possession of the families to whom they were +originally granted, would the produce be equal to the maintenance +of their numerous descendants, when the property became divided and +subdivided into fifty or a hundred shares? + +The present proprietors of the soil of England have, undoubtedly, +large incomes; but what becomes of those incomes? Do they not flow +back into the hands of the merchants, tradesmen, servants, &c.?--the +greater proportion, at least; for the sums expended by our tourists +on the continent form so inconsiderable a portion of those incomes, +as not to be worth mentioning. The same may be said of the _alleged_ +wealth of the clergy; for (admitting the allegation) it all flows back +into the channels whence it issued; and, although neither belonging +to the Church of England, nor approving of her forms of government, I +do not think that her downfall would improve the _temporal_ condition +of the people. If we wish to remain a Christian nation, we cannot +dispense with the services of the clergy; and in order that those +services may be efficient, they must be maintained in independence and +respectability. + +As to a republican form of government, that experiment has been +already tried in England, and failed; it may be tried again with no +better success. The circumstances in which the American people found +themselves after the Revolution, rendered the adoption of republican +institutions both safe and beneficial. They had learned by experience +that the remote position of their country secured their independence +from the ambitious projects of any power in Europe; while they had +nothing to fear from any power in America. Thus situated, any form of +government, consistent with the due maintenance of good order at home, +answered their purpose. The nascent republic might, at the period in +question, have adopted as its motto, "Liberty and Equality," with +the utmost propriety; for all enjoyed equal liberty, and nearly equal +fortunes. Experience, however, shows that liberty and equality cannot +long exist under any form of government; industry procures wealth, +wealth induces ambition, and ambition sighs after distinction and +power. + +While America feels secure from the aggression of her neighbours, +Great Britain is surrounded by powerful states, some of whom afford +her daily proofs of their envy of her greatness and their hatred of +her power; and only want the ability, not the will, to annihilate +both. Those states are, for the most part, ruled by absolute or +despotic governments, who can call fleets and armies into action +without losing a moment in debating the justice or injustice, policy +or impolicy, of their movements. With such neighbours as these, would +the Messenger of Peace recommend the "Britishers" to adopt a form of +government which would necessitate them to debate and consult while +their enemies were acting; and to remit to the people to discuss the +question of peace or war, when they should be enlisting and drilling +them? + +Columbia, happy land! the broad Atlantic intervenes between thee and +the envy or hatred of Europe; thy wide domain, presenting millions of +acres of untenanted land, stands open to the industry and enterprise +of thy citizens. How thankful, then, ought they to be for the +blessings they enjoy, compared with the condition of their brethren +"beyond the water," confined as they are to the narrow limits of their +sea-girt isle, whose soil is no longer sufficient for the support of +its over-crowded inhabitants, and surrounded by hostile nations, who +have long since pronounced the sentence, "_Delenda est Britannia!_" + +"Boz" has already told his countrymen all that is worth telling about +New York, and something more. What the "Dickens" brought him to +the "Five Points?" Did he never visit Wapping with the same views, +whatever they might be? If he did, did he observe nothing in that sink +of filth and wickedness equal to the scenes that shocked him so much +in the outskirts of New York? One just arrived from England finds +little in this city to excite wonder or admiration, unless it be the +extraordinary width of some of the streets. Were those streets kept +clean, and the liberty of the pigs a little restrained, the citizens +might well boast of their superiority to most of the streets of our +British cities; and as their taste improves, everything unsightly will +be removed. + +Nature has done much for New York: she possesses one of the finest +harbours in the world; her climate is pleasant and salubrious; and +one of the noblest rivers of America gives her the command of the +commercial resources of a country which equals in extent nearly all +Europe. New York will undoubtedly become one of the first cities in +the world; in commerce, in wealth, in population, she has advanced at +a prodigious rate within the last fifty years, and her progress is not +likely to be arrested. + +The aqueduct that supplies the town with water, pure, wholesome, and +abundant, is well worth the notice of a stranger. This stupendous work +was executed at a cost of nine millions of dollars, and conveys the +water from a distance of forty miles!--the genius of the engineer +and the power of money overcoming every obstacle. The two great +reservoirs, near the city, present splendid specimens of that kind of +architecture. Happening in company to express my opinion of this work, +as reflecting the highest credit on the enterprise of the citizens, a +gentleman present, evidently an American, in reply to the compliment, +observed, "It is very much to their advantage, no doubt, and it will +also be much to their credit, if they pay the debt they incurred in +constructing it." The fact is, that this and many other public works +in the United States, have been executed by British capital. Would to +heaven that our _sympathising_ friends, who are so jealous in regard +to the honour of America, where a few thousand acres of worthless land +are concerned, were equally jealous in regard to it when, under the +newly-invented name of _repudiation_, the honour of their country is +tarnished by a vast system of unblushing robbery! Would to heaven that +their _sympathies_ were extended to the thousands who are involved in +misery and ruin by this audacious system of national perfidy! + +If the art or ingenuity of the good citizens of New York has not +produced very many objects worthy of admiration, the faces of their +lovely fair make ample amends for it. Among the crowds of charmers +who throng the fashionable promenade of Broadway, scarcely an ordinary +face is to be seen. I, in fact, saw more pretty faces there in one +hour than in all my tour in Britain. + +I landed in New York without any prejudice against the Americans, and +I now take leave of their commercial capital with feelings of esteem +and regret. In the society I frequented I neither saw nor heard +anything unworthy of, or unbecoming the descendants of Britons. Some +little peculiarities, the natural result of circumstances, I certainly +noticed; some differences also in their social life; but I shall leave +it to those who are disposed to find fault to criticise these matters. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER--THE + PASSENGERS--ARRIVAL AT ALBANY--JOURNEY TO MONTREAL. + + +The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted by ice, I +determined on proceeding to Albany by steamboat, in preference to the +railroad, with the view of seeing the far-famed scenery of the country +through which the river flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of +February. We had not proceeded far, however, when we found the face of +the country covered with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated +from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost. + +Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold became so severe as we +ascended, that the deck was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the +stove was considered the best. The passengers being now all crowded +below, the group presented a complete epitome of American society: +here were members of the legislature proceeding to the capital on +parliamentary duty; here also were congregated in the same cabin, +merchants, mechanics, and farmers, messing at the same board, and at +first mixed up promiscuously together. They did not, however, long +continue so; the more respectable part, separating from the crowd, +occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied the other. Thus +the homogeneous ingredients of the mass having united, no further +mixture took place during the passage. + +It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally be observed +stepping beyond the ideal boundary, and sitting down among the +plebeians, probably some of his constituents,--would call for a pipe, +and, stretching out his legs, commence to puff, spit, and debate, like +one of themselves; and having by these means convinced them that he +still considered them as his _equals_, would retire again _ad suos_. + +The Americans are accused by Europeans of being cold and reserved +towards strangers; for my part, I found them sociable and +communicative in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked on +board the steamboat I found myself quite at home. I was much pleased +to observe the rational manner in which the passengers amused +themselves. Little groups were formed, where religion, politics and +business matters were discussed with excellent sense and judgment. +These seemed to be the common topics of discourse in both ends of the +cabin. I frequented both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in +either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush to the table; such a +scene as the latter is only to be seen in America. + +The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:-- + +"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!" + +Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, elbowing, until they +take their seats. I was, however, particularly struck with the +attention shown to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and +the total absence of impure or profane expressions in conversation. +How unlike the scenes one witnesses on board our steamboats in +Britain, where the meaner sort of passengers seem to travel on purpose +to indulge in drinking! + +I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress having been much +retarded by the quantity of ice drifting in the river. Finding that +the mail was to start for Canada in the course of the night, I decided +on going with it, without seeing the capital of New York. Owing to the +mildness of the season up to the present time, the roads were in +the worst possible condition, and the motion of the carriage passing +rapidly over the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently frozen +solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful. + +We continued, however, to jolt on night and day, without rest, save +during the short time necessary for changing or baiting cattle. The +roads became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A considerable +quantity of snow had fallen lately, which rendered travelling +in a wheeled carriage not only disagreeable in the extreme, but +also dangerous. We broke down several times, but without serious +inconvenience. On one of these occasions we picked ourselves up +opposite a farm house, in which we took shelter while the driver was +putting matters to rights. It being yet early, the inmates were still +in bed; we nevertheless found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth, +and seated ourselves around it. + +All of a sudden the door of a small apartment flew open, and a large +black cat sprang in amongst us. + +"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said one of the passengers, +addressing himself to me. "What do you think of the ingenuity of our +Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we should have had a page or +two more to his notes; and I am sure it would have proved at least as +interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's conversation with his +cattle." + +"That's a fact," said I. + +After being jolted and pitched about until every bone in my body +ached again, I reached St. John's on the 12th; and the snow being now +sufficiently deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder +of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + EMBARK FOR THE NORTH--PASSENGERS ARRIVE AT FORT + WILLIAM--DESPATCH FROM GOVERNOR--APPOINTED TO MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ADVENTURE ON GREAT SLAVE + LAKE--ARRIVE AT FORT SIMPSON--PRODUCTIONS OF THE POST. + + +I spent the remainder of the winter enjoying the good things of this +life, and on the 28th of April received orders to proceed to Lachine, +preparatory to embarking for the north. I embarked on the 29th, but +the crews were so intoxicated that we were compelled to land on an +island near by, to allow them to recover from the effects of their +carousals. + +I was joined here by Captain Stalk of the 71st, and Lieutenant Lefroy +of the Artillery; the former accompanying us on a jaunt of pleasure, +the latter on a scientific expedition. There were also four junior +clerks in the Company's service. Our brigade consisted of three large +canoes manned by about fifty Canadians, and Iroquois Indians. + +We were detained in our insular encampment by stress of weather until +the 2d of May, when we set out. Our crews being now perfectly sober, +plied their paddles with the utmost good-will, singing and whooping, +apparently delighted with their situation. Ignorance here was bliss; +they little dreamed of the life that awaited them. I may here premise, +that as I have already narrated the particulars of a similar voyage, +I shall pass on to the different stages of our route without noticing +the uninteresting incidents of our daily progress. + +We arrived at Fort William on the 28th of May, where we exchanged our +large Montreal canoes for smaller. Here Captain S. remained to await +his passage back to Canada; not much disposed to try such a jaunt +of pleasure again, I suspect,--and Lieutenant L., taking a canoe for +himself with a view of prosecuting his scientific researches more at +leisure than our go-a-head mode of travelling admitted, left us also. +We were detained a day at Fort William, repairing canoes, arranging +crews, &c., and on the 30th, I took leave of my excellent _compagnons +de voyage_ with sincere regret. + +On descending Lac la Pluie River, we landed at an extensive Sauteux +camp, where we found a Protestant (Methodist) Missionary, with a +native interpreter as his only companion. I learned with much regret, +that this gentleman's exertions in his vocation had been attended with +little or no success, although he had been two years engaged in it; +while the Romish priests, in the same space of time, had converted +numbers. + +The natives were occupied with the sturgeon fishing, and had +apparently been tolerably successful. Having procured a supply for the +use of our crews by barter, we set off, and without experiencing any +accident, reached Bas de la Riviere on the 13th of June, where I found +letters from the Governor, directing me to proceed with all possible +speed to York Factory. + +Having learned on my way coming up, that one of the gentlemen in +McKenzie's River district had resigned, and would quit the country +this year,--I felt convinced I should be appointed his successor; that +being one of the most wretched parts of the Indian country, it was +quite a matter of course that I should be sent thither. Knowing from +dear-bought experience, however, that my constitution could no +longer bear the hardships and privations to which I had been so long +subjected, I wrote the Governor on the subject, and requested that +he would grant me an appointment where I might enjoy some degree of +comfort--a favour which I humbly conceived my former services entitled +me to--otherwise I should retire from the service. We had a fine +passage across Lake Winnipeg, and I landed at Norway House with all my +party safe and sound, on the 18th of June. I remained there till the +21st, and then set out for York Factory, where I had been about ten +days, when an express arrived from Norway House with the Governor's +final orders to me, and also his reply to my last communication, which +I here insert at full length. + +"Red River Settlement, "_June_ 22, 1843. + +"DEAR SIR, + +"My eyes are so completely worn out, that I cannot give you a single +private line under my own hand. I have perused with attention your +private letter of the 14th instant, and should have been glad had it +been in my power to have met your wishes in regard to an appointment; +but from the few commissioned gentlemen disposable this season, it was +quite impossible to consult wishes. You were, therefore, long before +receipt of your letter, appointed to McKenzie's River. That is now one +of the finest fields we have for extension of trade, and I count much +on your activity for promoting our views in that quarter. But while +directing your attention to the extension of _your district_, you must +likewise use your best endeavours to curtail the indents, as they have +of late been on a most alarming scale, comprehending nearly as many +articles as appear in our Columbia requisition; if you look on my +notes on the last requisition, you will find that I have been under +the necessity of making some further curtailments. I am sorry the +idea of retiring has entered your mind, as I was in hopes we could +count upon some efficient services out of you while still young and +vigorous. + +"The Company have of late declined making any purchases of retired +interests; it would be therefore quite unnecessary to make any +application on that head, as they have lost money by all the recent +purchases they have made in that way. + +"I am at the Lower Fort, where Mr. Ross came in on me very +unexpectedly, just as we were preparing to get on horseback for the +upper part of the settlement, so that I am much pressed for time, +which will account for the brevity of this communication. + +"Pray let me hear from you in Canada by the last canoes, as I shall +not then have taken my departure from Montreal. + +"I remain, &c. &c. + +(Signed) "GEORGE SIMPSON." + +Judging, from the instructions contained in the above communication, +that I was appointed to the charge of the district, I made up my mind +to try how far my health could endure the hardships of which I already +had had more than my share; and without a moment's delay, set out for +Norway House in a light canoe, where I arrived on the 16th of July. +My friend Mr. C---- arrived with his returns from Athabasca a few +days afterwards, and his arrangements being completed on the 24th, I +embarked as a passenger with him. + +We reached the small river Mithai on the 4th of September, when we +found the water so low as barely to admit of the passage of the +light boats. It happened most fortunately that there were a number of +Chippewayan Indians encamped on the spot at the time, else we should +have been completely at a nonplus. The crews, good souls! hired +those Indians at their own expense, to carry the greater part of the +property in their small canoes to the upper part of the river. At the +portage we found a number of half-breeds, with their horses, from +the Saskatchewan, awaiting our arrival, in the expectation of being +employed to transport the goods. Nor were they disappointed; sooner +than undergo the harassing toil of carrying the outfit across a +portage of twelve miles, the men hired the half-breeds, parting with +their most valuable articles in payment. + +Several propositions have been made, of late years, to the Governor, +for sparing the men the inhuman labour of this portage, which they +must either perform, or sacrifice a considerable part of their paltry +wages to avoid it. It was suggested, for instance, that a sufficient +number of horses should be stationed at a certain locality, with the +requisite conveniences, near the portage, and a couple of men hired +on purpose to take care of them, whose wages the winterers should +pay out of their own pockets, which they readily assented to; as the +transport, by this arrangement, would only cost them one-third of what +it cost them to employ the half-breeds. His Excellency, however, was +quite "sick" of the Portage La Loche subject; he knew as much about it +as anybody, and felt quite assured that it was the easiest part of the +men's duties throughout the voyage! While canoes were used, the duty +at Portage la Loche was not nearly so severe as at present; a canoe +carried only twenty-five pieces, and was manned by six men; a boat's +crew consists only of seven men, while the cargo consists of from +sixty to seventy pieces. + +The descent of the Clear Water and Athabasca rivers was effected +without any accident, and we arrived at Athabasca on the 16th of +September; whence I set out again, after a few days' delay, for Fort +Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, where I was detained by stress of +weather until the 29th. + +I left the post late in the evening, and intended to encamp on an +island at a convenient distance; but the season being far advanced, I +felt anxious to proceed, and inquired of my pilot whether he thought +there would be any risk in travelling all night? "Not the least," was +the reply; and we rowed on accordingly till morning; when lo! the only +objects to be seen were sea and sky. In vain we strained the organs +of vision to discover land; there we were, as if in the midst of the +ocean, surrounded on all sides by the unbroken circle of the horizon. +I do not know that I ever felt more seriously alarmed than at this +moment, thus to find myself exposed on an unknown sea, as it might +well be termed, in an open boat, and at such an advanced period of +the season, without any means of ascertaining what course to steer for +land. It would appear our steersman had been napping at the helm in +the course of the night, and thus allowed the boat to deviate from her +course without noticing it; hence the awkwardness and even the danger +of our present situation. + +While considering with myself what was best to be done, a fine breeze +sprang up; I ordered the sail to be hoisted immediately, determined on +going before it until we made land, no matter where. Fortunately the +wind continued steady all day, and we at length reached the land a +little after sunset, having run at least forty miles. We put ashore +at the first convenient landing we could find, and encamped for the +night. Having consulted a map I had with me, and observing by the sun +the direction in which we had crossed the lake, (for we had actually +crossed it at its greatest width,) I could make out pretty clearly +that we had turned our backs to our true course! We had, however, a +good supply of provisions, and a voyageur is never discouraged while +he has the provender before him. Having now learned, to my cost, what +confidence my pilot was entitled to, I determined on keeping land in +view for the future. + +We embarked early next morning, and, after a tedious and laborious +passage of seven days, arrived at Big Island fishery at the outlet of +the Lake on the 8th of October, where I found a boat ready to start +with a cargo of fish, in which I embarked; and landing finally at Fort +Simpson on the 16th, my long trip of five months _per mare et terram_, +was brought to a close; and high time it should, for the weather was +become excessively cold, and the ice was forming along the beach. + +I was much grieved to find Mr. Lewis confined to bed in consequence of +a shocking accident he had lately met with, his right hand being blown +off by the accidental discharge of his fowling-piece. + +Having perused the governor's official letter to Mr. Lewis, I found +the following paragraph in it relating to myself:--"On retiring from +the district next season, you will be pleased to invest Mr. McLean +with the management, handing to that gentleman all correspondence, +papers, &c., connected with the public business." This paragraph, +taken in conjunction with the instructions I had previously received, +confirmed both Mr. L. and myself in the opinion that I was to succeed +him in the charge; and we took our measures accordingly. + +I was very agreeably surprised to find that the high latitude of this +locality (61 deg. north) did not prevent agricultural operations from +being carried on with success. Although the season had been rather +unfavourable, the farm yielded four hundred bushels of potatoes, +and upwards of one hundred bushels of barley; the barnyard, with its +stacks of barley and hay, and the number of horned cattle around it, +had quite the air of a farm standing in the "old country." It is to be +regretted that the gentlemen here should have paid so little attention +to the cultivation of the soil in former times, as the produce +would, ere now, not only have contributed to the support of the +establishment, but have afforded assistance to the natives in years of +scarcity. + +For these three years past the distress of the natives in this +quarter has been without parallel; several hundreds having perished of +want--in some instances, even at the gates of the trading post, whose +inmates, far from having it in their power to relieve others, required +relief themselves. Here, as in most other parts of the wooded country, +rabbits form the principal subsistence of the natives, and when they +fail, starvation is the sure and inevitable result; but no former +period has been so productive of distress, to so fearful an extent, as +the present. With the produce of the farm, Mr. L. was enabled to save +the lives of all those who resorted to his own post; but at Forts Good +Hope, Norman, and De Liard, no assistance could be given; as those +posts, like most others in the Indian country, depend entirely on +the means the country affords in fish, flesh, and fowl, for their +subsistence. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + STATEMENTS IN THE EDINBURGH CABINET LIBRARY--ALLEGED + KINDNESS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY TO THE INDIANS--AND + GENEROSITY--SUPPORT OF MISSIONARIES--SUPPORT + WITHDRAWN--PREFERENCE OF ROMAN CATHOLICS--THE NORTH-WEST + COMPANY--CONDUCT OF A BRITISH PEER--RIVALRY OF THE + COMPANIES--COALITION--CHARGES AGAINST THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY + REFUTED. + + +A volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, in which the Company's +territories are described, came lately into my hands. It is there +remarked, that "the Company's posts serve as hospitals, to which +the Indians resort during sickness, and are supplied with food and +medicine; that when winter arrives, the diseased and infirm are +frequently left there; that the Company have made the most laudable +efforts to instruct and civilize them, employing, at a great expense, +Missionaries and Teachers," &c. + +I am well aware that the author of this valuable production took it +for granted that the information he had obtained, relative to our +treatment of the Indians, and other matters, was correct, or he would +not have permitted it to go forth to the world under the authority +and sanction of his name. But without intending any disrespect to the +author, I take leave to state that the above quotations have not the +slightest foundation in fact. Our posts serve as hospitals! I have now +passed twenty-four years of my life-time in the country; I have served +in every quarter of it; and I own that I have never yet known a single +instance of an Indian being retained at any inland post for medical +treatment. The knowledge the natives possess of the medicinal virtues +of roots and herbs, is generally equal to the cure of all their +ailments; and we are, in fact, more frequently indebted to them, than +they to us, for medical advice. I may mention, however, by way of +exception to the general rule, that the depots along the coast are +well supplied with medicines, and that there are medical men there who +administer them to the natives when they apply for them. + +In the interior we are allowed to doctor ourselves as we best can. +What with the salubrity of the climate, and our abstemious fare, we +are enabled, with the aid of a little Turlington balsam, and a dose +of salts, perhaps, to overcome all our ailments. Most of us also use +the lancet, and can even "spread a plaster, or give a glister," when +necessary; but the Indians seldom trouble us. + +As to the instruction the natives receive from us, I am at a loss to +know what it is, where imparted, and by whom given. "A tale I could, +unfold!" But let it pass: certain it is, that neither our example nor +our precept has had the effect of improving the morals or principles +of the natives;--they are neither more enlightened, nor more +civilized, by our endeavours, than if we had never appeared among +them. The native interpreters even grow old in our service as ignorant +of Christianity as the rudest savages who have never seen the face of +a white man. + +The Church Missionary Society has had two Missionaries stationed at +Red River settlement for some years past, one of whom is designated +the Company's Chaplain, and is allowed 100l. per annum; the Roman +Catholic bishop, too, receives his 100l., and doubtless understands, +without any inspiration, the Company's policy in granting the annuity. +The gentleman who conducts the academy has also 100l. a-year; thus we +have 300l., forming the sum total of the "great expenses" the Company +are at. It is quite true there are thirteen schools at Red River; +there are also eighteen windmills, and the Company furnishes just as +much wind for the mills as funds for the support of the schools or +teachers. Other teachers than those above specified I have neither +seen nor heard of. + +Some years ago five Missionaries were sent out to the Hudson's Bay +territory by the Wesleyan Missionary Society. After having laboured +for some time in the territory, by a decision of the Council the rank +of commissioned gentleman, together with the usual allowances attached +to that rank, was conferred on them. + +The Missionaries had every reason to be grateful for these acts of +kindness, and they both felt and expressed their gratitude. Their +object, however, in coming to the country was to serve God, not the +Hudson's Bay Company; and they proceeded to discharge their duty in +the manner their conscience approved, instructing and enlightening +the natives with the zeal and perseverance for which their sect is +so eminently distinguished. The good fruits were soon apparent; in +some parts of the country successful attempts were made to collect +the natives: they were taught to cultivate the soil, to husband +their produce, so as to render them less dependent on fortuitous +circumstances for a living; they were taught to read and write, and to +worship God "in spirit and in truth," and numbers "were daily added +to the Church;" when, lo! it was discovered that the time devoted +to religious exercises, and other duties arising out of the altered +circumstances of the converts, was so much time lost to the fur-hunt; +and from the moment this discovery was made, no further encouragement +was given to the innovators. Their labours were strictly confined to +the stations they originally occupied, and every obstacle was thrown +in the way of extending their missions. Even after some of them +had travelled into the remotest parts, and opened up an amicable +intercourse with the natives, they were told that collecting the +Indians into villages was a measure not to be thought of, as the +habitual indolence of the natives precluded the idea of their being +induced to cultivate the soil; that even if they were so inclined, the +country presented few localities fit for the purpose, &c. + +Notwithstanding the high authority whence these allegations emanated, +I think I can show the reader that they are in a great measure without +foundation. + +Here (in lat. 61 deg. north)[2] we raise crops of barley and potatoes--the +former in abundance every year,--the latter, however, are sometimes +cut off by the frosts; but this is no more than happens in Canada, +and many parts of the United States. The fact is, that there are many +favourable situations for agriculture to be found in every district of +the Company's territories, except perhaps one or two on the shores of +Hudson's Bay. The banks of the Athabasca, Peace, Slave, and McKenzie +rivers present many localities fit for farming operations; and in the +more southern districts they are, of course, far more frequent. + +[Footnote 2: On the banks of the McKenzie River.] + +Had the Protestant ministers been allowed a free scope, and the +encouragement they at first received been continued, they would ere +now have had Missions established in many districts; and there can +hardly be a doubt that they would have succeeded here, as elsewhere, +in overcoming the natural sloth of the natives. Their good intentions, +however, have been frustrated, and they have now the additional +mortification of finding themselves supplanted by Romish priests, who, +no later than last year, were allowed a free passage in the Company's +craft, even to a district where a Protestant Missionary had been +settled for several years previously, and had made considerable +progress in converting the natives. Not only was he allowed a passage +to the district, but he was lodged and entertained in the Company's +establishment. + +The consequences of this strange procedure are obvious: the poor +ignorant natives, hearing such conflicting doctrines, are at a loss +what to think or what to believe; and, naturally enough, conclude that +both are alike impostors, and therefore in many cases decline their +instructions. It must be acknowledged, however, that the Romish priest +is often more successful than the Protestant missionary, and that +for obvious reasons. With the former, the Indian needs only profess +a desire to become a Christian, and he is forthwith baptized; whereas +with the latter, a probationary course--a trial of the proselyte's +sincerity--is deemed indispensable. The peculiar dress, moreover, +of the Romish ministers, and their imposing ritual, make a great +impression on the senses of a barbarous people. + +"_He_ indeed," say the Indians, when speaking of the priest, "he +indeed looks like a great 'man of medicine;' but these others are just +like our traders; we can see no difference." + +The fact, too, need not be disguised, that we ourselves find the +priests far more accommodating than these meddling parsons. The +priests, for instance, allow us to amuse ourselves in any manner we +think fit, week-day or Sunday; and far from finding fault, ten to +one if they don't join in the sport; the Protestant minister, on +the contrary, never allows a violation of the sacred day to pass +unnoticed, nor fails to warn the delinquent of the consequences. +The priest connives at the Indian's hunting on Sunday--the minister +strictly forbids it: the priests are single--the ministers are +generally married, and their maintenance of course involves a far +heavier expense. Considering these things, no reasonable person can +surely find fault with us for preferring those who allow us to put +what construction we please on the moral law, and at the same time +oppose no obstacles to the advancement of our temporal interests. + +And here I cannot but express my regret that our Protestant churches +should have so long neglected the cultivation of a field that promised +such rich harvests as the interior of America. The superstitions +of the aborigines scattered through the Hudson's Bay Company's +territories are so gross, and so inconsistent with unsophisticated +common sense; and their prejudices in favour of them have been so much +shaken by their intercourse with the gentlemen of the trading posts +and the other Europeans, whom they are accustomed to look up to as +beings of a superior race, that there could be but little difficulty +in removing what _remains_ of these prejudices; and thus one of the +greatest obstacles to the success of a Missionary in other parts of +the heathen world, can scarcely be said to exist among them. + +The Church of England, it is true, has done a little, but she might +have done more--much more. Had the Missionaries at Red River exerted +themselves, from the time of their first arrival in the country, in +educating _natives_ as Missionaries, and sent them forth to preach +the Word, the pure doctrines of Christianity would, ere now, have been +widely disseminated through the land. But nothing of this kind has +been attempted: nor could it be attempted--now that I think of it--the +laying on of "the hands of a Bishop" being indispensable. + +As to the diseased and infirm being frequently left at our posts in +winter, all I can say is, that I have never seen any such at any +of the posts I wintered at, or at any of the posts I visited; nor +is it likely that, when we ourselves depend on the natives for a +considerable part of our subsistence, we can do much to support them. +We support neither old nor young, diseased nor infirm--that is the +truth. + +In the work above quoted I find the following paragraph relating to +the North-West Company. + +"Although the rivalry of the North-West Company had the effect of +inspiriting and extending the trade; it was carried by them in many +respects beyond the legitimate limits, not scrupling at open violence +and bloodshed, in which Europeans and natives were alike sufferers." + +The controversy between those rival companies has long since been +forgotten; but the subject being again obtruded on the public notice, +evidently in the spirit of prejudice, there can be nothing improper, I +presume, in representing matters in their true and proper light. Many +of the individuals thus calumniated are still alive and settled in the +civilized world, where they are esteemed for qualities diametrically +opposite to those ascribed to them by their slanderer. + +It is well known that the chief advantages the Hudson's Bay Company +now possess, they owe to the adventurous North-West traders; by these +traders the whole interior of the savage wilds was first explored; by +them the water communications were first discovered and opened up +to commercial enterprise; by them the first trading posts were +established in the interior; by them the natives were first reconciled +to the whites; and by them the trade was first reduced to the regular +system which the Hudson's Bay Company still follows. When all this +had been done by the North-West Company, and they had begun to +reap the reward of their toils, and hardships, and dangers, and +expenditure--then did the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, led on by +a British peer, step forward and claim, as British subjects, an equal +right to share the trade. + +Their _noble_ leader appeared first in Montreal in the guise of a +traveller, where he was received by the North-Westers with open arms, +was kindly and hospitably entertained by them, his minutest inquiries +regarding their system of trade were candidly and freely answered; +and the information thus obtained in the character of a traveller, +a guest, and a friend, he forthwith proceeded to use to effect +their ruin. Had, however, the North-West Company continued true to +themselves, all his arts and attempts would have failed. Had not +dissension arisen in the ranks, it is clear that _they_--not +the Hudson's Bay Company--would have granted the capitulation. +Unfortunately for themselves, however, the partners in the interior, +seeing the contest continue so long, and the expenses swallow up all +the profits, despaired of the success that was almost within their +grasp, and commencing a correspondence among themselves, finally +determined on opening a negotiation with their rivals. Two of their +number were accordingly sent home, invested with full powers to +act for the general interest. Those gentlemen arrived just as the +Directors of the North-West Company in London were about to conclude +a most advantageous treaty--a few days more, and the articles had been +ratified by the signatures of both parties. At this conjuncture the +Delegates arrived, and instead of first communicating with their own +Directors, went straight to the Hudson's Bay House, and presented +their credentials. The Hudson's Bay Company saw their advantage, and +instead of receiving, now dictated the terms; and thus the name of the +North-West Company was merged in that of its rival, and the Canadian +people were deprived of all interest in that trade which owed its +origin to the courage and enterprise of their forefathers. + +Such were the relative circumstances of the Hudson's Bay and +North-West Companies. From 1674 to 1813 the Hudson's Bay Company +slumbered at its posts along the shores of Hudson's Bay, never +attempting to penetrate beyond the banks of the Saskatchewan, until +the North-Westers had led and cleared the way; and in this manner +began their rivalry. That collisions should follow, marked by violence +and outrage, need not be wondered at. But violence and outrage were +not confined to one side; both parties exceeded the limits prescribed +by law. Yet while stern justice alike condemns both, which is the more +guilty party? or which has the greater claims on our sympathy? + +As to the North-West Company being guilty of the blood of innocent +Indians,--the charge is as false as it is invidious. When the blood +of their servants was shed without cause or provocation, as frequently +happened when they first encountered the fierce savage, they punished +the aggressors as the law of God allows, demanding "blood for blood." +But while the author (or rather his informant, whose _ribbon_ I +can plainly distinguish, although he strikes in the dark) so freely +censures the North-West Company for avenging the murder of their +people, does he mean to insinuate that nothing of the kind is done +under the _humane_ and _gentle_ rule of the Hudson's Bay Company? +What became of the Hannah Bay murderers? They were conveyed to Moose +Factory, bound hand and foot, and there shot down by the orders of +the Chief Factor. Did the murders committed by the natives at New +Caledonia, Thompson's River, and the Columbia, pass unavenged? No! the +penalty was fully paid in blood for blood. + +But since the author's informant seems disposed to "rake up the +smouldering embers" of days bygone, I shall take the liberty of +telling him of a tragedy that was enacted at the ancient date of +1836-7. In that winter, a party of men, led by two clerks, was sent +to look for some horses that were grazing at a considerable distance +from the post. As they approached the spot they perceived a band of +Assineboine Indians, eight in number (if I remember aright), on an +adjacent hill, who immediately joined them, and, delivering up their +arms, encamped with them for the night. Next morning a _court martial_ +was held by the two clerks and some of the men, to determine the +punishment due to the Indians for having been found near the company's +horses, with the _supposed_ intention of carrying them off. What was +the decision of this mock court martial? I shudder to relate, that the +whole band, after having given up their arms, and partaken of their +hospitality, were condemned to death, and the sentence carried into +execution on the spot,--all were butchered in cold blood! + +With the exception of the massacre of the Indians in McKenzie's River +district in 1835, no such deed of blood had been heard of in the +country. Yet our author's _impartial_ informant, perfectly acquainted +as he was with all the circumstances of the case, and ready enough +as he is to trumpet to the world the alleged crimes of the North-West +Company, takes no notice of it! It may be said that the Company are +not answerable for crimes committed by their servants without their +knowledge. True; but when they are made fully acquainted with those +misdeeds, and allow the perpetrators to escape with impunity, the +guilt is transferred to their own head; "invitat culpam qui peccatum +praeterit." The proceedings of this court-martial were reported at +head-quarters, and the punishment awarded to these murderers was--a +reprimand! After this, what protection, or generosity, or justice, can +the Indians he said to receive from the Hudson's Bay Company? + +The Indians to this day talk of their Northwest "fathers" with regret. +"Our old traders, our fathers, did not serve us so," is a remark +I have frequently heard in every part of the country where the +North-West Company had established posts. Had their rule been +distinguished by oppression or injustice, the natives would rather +have expressed their satisfaction at its suppression; had it been +tyrannical or oppressive, it would not have been long tolerated. The +natives in those times were numerous and warlike; the trading-posts +were isolated and far apart; and in the summer season, when the +managers proceeded to the depots, with the greater part of their +people, were entirely at the mercy of the natives, who would not have +failed to take advantage of such opportunities to avenge their wrongs, +had they suffered any. The posts, in fact, were left entirely to their +protection, and depended on them for support during the absence of the +traders, who, on their return in autumn, found themselves surrounded +by hundreds of rejoicing Indians, greeting their "fathers" with every +manifestation of delight;--he who had not a gun to fire strained his +lungs with shouting. + +The native population has decreased at an extraordinary rate since +those times. I do not mean to affirm that this decrease arises from +the Hudson's Bay Company's treatment of them; but, from whatever cause +arising, it is quite certain they have greatly decreased. Neither can +it be denied, that the natives are no longer the manly, independent +race they formerly were. On the contrary, we now find them gloomy and +dispirited, unhappy and discontented. + +As to our vaunted "generosity" to the natives, I am at a loss to know +in what it consists. When a band of Indians arrive at a trading post, +each individual is presented with a few inches of tobacco; here (at +Fort Simpson) in winter we add a fish to each. After their furs are +traded, a few flints, awls, and hooks, and a trifle of ammunition is +given them, in proportion to their hunts, and then--"Va-t-en." This is +about the average amount of "generosity" they receive throughout the +country; varied, however, by the differences of disposition observable +in the Hudson's Bay Company's traders, as among all other mortals. +Some of us would even withhold the awls and hooks, if we could; +others, at the risk of being "hauled up" for extravagance, would add +another hook to the number. + +Were the Company's standing rules and regulations acted upon, we might +perhaps have some title to the generosity we boast of. In these rules +we are directed to supply _poor_ Indians with ammunition and fishing +tackle, gratis. This looks very well on paper; but are we allowed the +means of bestowing these gratuities? Certainly not.[3] Our outfits, +in many cases, are barely sufficient to meet the exigencies of the +trade; they are continually reduced in proportion to the decrease in +the returns; and the strictest economy is not only recommended, but +enforced. On the due fulfilment of these commands our prospects in +the service depend; and few indeed will think of violating them, or of +sacrificing their own interests to benefit Indians. I repeat that, far +from having it in our power to bestow anything gratuitously, we are +happy when allowed sufficient means to barter for the furs the Indians +bring us. + +[Footnote 3: When the Israelites were ordered to provide straw for +their bricks, the material _could_ be procured in Egypt, although at +the expense of great additional toil;--not so the supplies for the +Indian trade; in the event of a deficiency, neither money nor labour +can procure them.] + +The Company also make it appear by their standing rules, that we are +directed to instruct the children, to teach the servants, &c.; but +where are the means of doing so? A few books, I have been told, were +sent out for this purpose, after the coalition; what became of them +I know not. I never saw any. The history of commercial rule is well +known to the world; the object of that rule, wherever established, or +by whomsoever exercised, is gain. In our intercourse with the natives +of America no other object is discernible, no other object is thought +of, no other object is allowed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + ARRIVAL OF MR. LEFROY--VOYAGE TO THE LOWER POSTS OF THE + MACKENZIE--AVALANCHE--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--VOYAGE + TO PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ARBITRARY AND UNJUST CONDUCT OF THE + GOVERNOR--DESPOTISM--MY REPLY TO THE GOVERNOR. + + +In the early part of this winter several Indians came in, complaining +that they were starving for want of food; and their emaciated forms +proved that they did not complain without cause. Our means, however, +were too limited to afford them any effectual relief. We were glad to +learn afterwards, that although many suffered, none died from actual +want; and the rabbits soon afterwards appearing in greater numbers +than had been seen for years past, relief was obtained. + +Towards the latter end of March, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr. +Lefroy. This gentleman seems equal to all the hardships and privations +of a voyageur's life, having performed the journey from Athabasca +hither, a distance of at least six hundred miles, on snow-shoes, +without appearing to have suffered any inconvenience from it; thus +proving himself the ablest _mangeur de lard_ we have had in the +country for a number of years: there are many of our old winterers +who would have been glad to excuse themselves if required to undertake +such a journey. + +The winter passed without any remarkable occurrence; and on the +breaking up of the river, I set off for the lower posts, on the 23d +of May, accompanied by Mr. Lefroy, whose zeal for scientific discovery +neither cold, nor hunger, nor fatigue, seems to depress. We arrived +at Fort Norman on the 27th of May; and after a few hours' delay, +embarked, proceeding down stream, night and day. + +We reached Fort Good Hope on the 29th, late in the evening; but +evening, morning, midnight, and noon-day, are much the same here: I +wrote at midnight by the clear light of heaven. The scientific reader +need not be informed, that within the arctic circle the sun is but a +very short time beneath the horizon, during the summer solstice. The +people of Fort Good Hope see him rising and setting behind the same +hill; and in clear weather his rays shed a light above the horizon +even after he is set; while during the winter solstice the same hill +nearly conceals him from view. Yet the gentleman in charge of this +post has passed two years without an inch of candle to light himself +to bed; and his predecessor did the same; so that he has no reason to +complain. + +On our way down we observed a land-slip, or avalanche of earth, that +had just tumbled into the river. Mr. Lefroy examined the bank whence +it had been detached, and found, by measurement, that the frozen +ground was forty-six feet in depth! + +Our short sojourn at Fort Good Hope was rendered very unpleasant by +the dismal weather; it continued snowing the whole time we remained. +The storm abating, we embarked at an early hour, on the 31st of May, +and had not proceeded above a few leagues, when a fair breeze sprang +up, greatly to the satisfaction of all, but especially of the poor +fellows whose toil it relieved. It continued increasing; reef after +reef was taken in, till our sheet was finally reduced to a few feet +in depth; yet so furious was the gale that we ascended the strongest +current with nearly the same velocity we had descended; while the +snow fell so thick, and the spray from the river was driven about +so violently by the wind, that we could scarce see our way, and only +escaped being dashed against the beach by keeping in the centre of the +stream. It was also extremely cold; so that our situation in an open +boat was not the most enviable. + +We arrived at Fort Norman on the 2d of June, about five, A.M., +and remained until eleven, A.M., when we embarked, the gale still +continuing with unabated violence. Immediately after leaving the Fort +the gale carried away our mast; fortunate it was for us that it gave +way, else the boat must have capsized. We soon got another mast from +the Fort, and sped on our way night and day, if it can be said there +is any night here, when the light is so powerful as to throw the stars +into the shade. Without experiencing much change in wind or weather, +we arrived at Fort Simpson on the 8th of June; having thus performed +a voyage of about 1,400 miles (going and coming) in eleven days, +including stoppages. I found Mr. Lewis so far recovered from the +effects of his wound as to be able to take the same active part in the +management of affairs as formerly. + +The returns from the different posts being now received, we found them +to amount to upwards of 15,000l. in value, according to the tariff +of last year. Everything being ready for our departure, we left +Fort Simpson on the 15th of June, Mr. Lefroy embarking with us. +We proceeded to Great Slave Lake without interruption, the weather +extremely fine. Within a day's rowing of Fort Resolution we +encountered a field of ice that arrested our progress, till a change +of wind carried it out to sea. + +The moment a passage opened we observed a large canoe making for our +encampment. It proved to be Mr. Lefroy's, which he had left with the +most of his people at Athabasca. Mr. Lefroy embarked in his own +craft, and we proceeded to Fort Resolution in company; and as he had +determined on following a different route to Athabasca, we parted +here, most probably never to meet again in this life. Few gentlemen +ever visited this country who acquired so general esteem as Mr. +Lefroy; his gentlemanly bearing and affable manners endeared him to +us all. We arrived at Athabasca on the 5th of July, and at Portage La +Loche on the 25th, where we found an increased number of half-breeds +waiting our arrival. + +The brigade from York Factory arrived with the outfit on the 2d of +August, and we exchanged cargoes with the utmost expedition, they +receiving the returns of the district, and we the outfit brought +by them. By this conveyance I received letters from the Governor, +acquainting me "that another gentleman was appointed to the charge +of McKenzie's River District, and that he (the Governor) could +not conceive on what grounds I fancied myself to be the person so +appointed, as he was certain I could not have arrived at such a +conclusion from perusing the instructions I had received from him last +year!" Until now I thought I understood the English language as well +as most people; but the Governor makes it appear plainly enough that I +ought still to confine myself to the old Celtic. + +The instructions above referred to being given in the foregoing pages, +I shall leave the reader to form his own opinion of one who, in +the high and honourable position of a Governor, could treat so +ungenerously one whom he admitted to be a faithful and meritorious +servant, and whom he had acknowledged to be deserving of preferment: +and that not on the present only, but on several former occasions. + +This last insult I consider the climax to the wrongs I have so long +suffered. First I am appointed in the usual terms to the charge of a +district. I am allowed to continue in that opinion for a twelvemonth; +I enter into correspondence with the gentlemen of the district as +their future superintendent, and make my arrangements with them as +such; and, _au bout du compte_, am ordered back to the same district +to mix with the crowd, and submit to another master. I leave it to +the reader to judge whether such a Governor could possibly have the +interests of the Company at heart; even supposing for a moment there +were no _injustice_ in the case; I leave it to him to consider what +effect a conduct and measures so vacillating, unsteady and arbitrary, +are likely to have on the service and interests of the Company. + +This last act of the Governor made me completely disgusted with a +service where such acts could be tolerated. In no colony subject to +the British Crown is there to be found an authority so despotic as is +at this day exercised in the mercantile Colony of Rupert's Land; an +authority combining the despotism of military rule with the strict +surveillance and mean parsimony of the avaricious trader. From +Labrador to Nootka Sound the unchecked, uncontrolled will of a single +individual gives law to the land. As to the nominal Council which is +yearly convoked for form's sake, the few individuals who compose it +know better than to offer advice where none would be accepted; they +know full well that the Governor has already determined on his own +measures before one of them appears in his presence. Their assent is +all that is expected of them, and that they never hesitate to give. +Many years pass without such a thing as a legally constituted Council +being held. A legal Council ought to consist of seven members besides +the Governor; three chief factors and four chief traders. The Council, +however, seldom consists of more than five members and the Governor. + +Some years ago, I happened to be at an establishment where a "Council" +was about to be held. On inquiring of his Excellency's Secretary what +subject of moment he thought would first engage their attention-- + +"Engage their attention!" he replied; "bless your heart, man! the +minutes of Council were all drawn out before we arrived here; I have +them in my pocket." + +Clothed with a power so unlimited, it is not to be wondered at that a +man who rose from a humble situation should in the end forget what +he was and play the tyrant. Let others, if they will, submit to be so +ruled with a rod of iron. I at least shall not. + +In reply to his favour, I addressed the following letter to his +Excellency, a transcript of which I transmitted to the Committee. + +"Portage La Loche, "_August_ 3, 1844. + +"To SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, Governor of Rupert's Land:-- + +"SIR--I have the honour to acknowledge your several favours from +Lachine and Red River, and am mortified to learn by them you should +think me so stupid as not to understand your letters on the subject of +my appointment to the charge of the district; your language being so +clear, in fact, as to admit of no other construction than the one I +put upon it. By referring to the minutes of Council for 1843, I find +myself appointed to Fort Good Hope for that year; but you wrote me +subsequently to the breaking up of the Council, and used these words: +'That is now the finest field we have for the extension of trade, +and I count much on your activity for promoting our views in that +quarter. But while directing your attention to the extension of _your +district_, you must also use your best endeavours to curtail the +indents.' + +"Your letter to Mr. C.F. Lewis states, in nearly these words, that I +'am appointed to succeed him;' and you beg of him 'to deliver into my +hands all the documents that refer to the affairs of the district.' +Mr. Lewis understood your letters in the same sense as myself, and +so did every other person who perused them. What your object may +have been in altering this arrangement afterwards, is best known +to yourself; and whether such conduct can be reconciled with the +principles of honour and integrity which you so strongly recommend in +others, and which are so necessary to the well-being of society, is +a question which I shall leave for the present to your own decision; +while I cannot avoid remarking, that the treatment I have experienced +from you on this and on many other occasions, is as unworthy of +yourself and as unworthy of the high station you fill, as I am +undeserving of it. + +"When in 1837, I was congratulated by every member of Council then +present at Norway House on the prospect of my immediate promotion, +(having all voted for me,) your authority was interposed, and I was, +as a matter of course, rejected. You were then candid enough to tell +me that I should not have your interest until the two candidates you +then had in view were provided for, and that it would then be my turn. +With this assurance from you I cheerfully prepared for my _exile_ to +_Ungava_. _My turn_ only came, however, after _seven_ other promotions +had been made, and I found myself the last on the list of three +gentlemen who were promoted at the same time. + +"You are pleased to jest with the hardships I experienced while +battling the watch with opposition in the Montreal department, and +the privations I afterwards endured in New Caledonia. Surely, Sir, you +ought to have considered it sufficient to have made me your dupe, and +not add insult to oppression. While in the Montreal department I have +your handwriting to show your approval of my 'meritorious conduct,' +the course I was pursuing being 'the direct road to preferment;' and +your intention, even then, 'to recommend me to the favourable notice +of the Governor and Committee;'--promises in which I placed implicit +confidence at the time, being as yet a stranger to the ways of the +world.--The result of these promises, however, was that the moment +opposition had ceased, I was ordered to resign my situation to +another, and march to enjoy the 'delectable scenery' of New Caledonia; +from thence you sent me to Ungava, where you say you are not aware I +experienced any particular hardship or privation. + +"You are aware of the circumstances in which I found myself when I +arrived there: that consideration was not allowed to interpose between +me and my duty, however; and I accordingly traversed that desolate +country in the depth of winter,--a journey that nearly cost myself +and my companions our lives. I then continued to explore the country +during the entire period of my command, and finally succeeded in +discovering a practicable communication with Esquimaux Bay, and in +determining the question so long involved in uncertainty as to the +riches the interior possessed, and by so doing saved an enormous +expense to the concern. The Hon. Committee are aware of my exertions +in that quarter, themselves, as I had the honour of being in direct +communication with them while there. + + "I have the honour, &c. + (Signed) "JOHN MCLEAN." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + SITUATION OF FORT SIMPSON--CLIMATE--THE LIARD--EFFECTS OF + THE SPRING FLOODS--TRIBES INHABITING MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PECULIARITIES--DISTRESS THROUGH + FAMINE--CANNIBALISM--ANECDOTE--FORT GOOD HOPE SAVED BY THE + INTREPIDITY OF M. DECHAMBAULT--DISCOVERIES OF MR. CAMPBELL. + + +Mr. Lewis embarked for York Factory on the 4th of August. I set out on +my return on the 6th, and arrived at Fort Simpson on the 22d. Having +prepared and sent off the outfit for the different posts with all +possible expedition, I found myself afterwards at leisure to note down +whatever I thought worthy of being recorded with reference to this +section of the country. + +There are seven posts in this district; three on the River Liard and +its tributaries; three on the banks of McKenzie's River, and one +on Peel's River. About two degrees to the north of Good Hope, Fort +Simpson, the depot of the district, is situated at the confluence of +the Liard and McKenzie, in lat. 61 deg. north. Heat and cold are here +felt in the extremes; the thermometer frequently falls to 50 deg. minus in +winter, and rises sometimes to 100 deg. in the shade in summer. The River +Liard has its source in the south among the Rocky Mountains: its +current is remarkably strong; and in the early part of summer, when +swollen by the melting of the snow, it rushes down in a foaming +torrent, and pours into the McKenzie, still covered with solid ice, +when a scene ensues terrific and grand:--the ice, resisting for some +time the force of the flood, ultimately gives way with the noise of +thunder, and clashing, roaring and tumbling, it rolls furiously along +until it accumulates to such an extent as to dam the river across. +This again presents, for a time, a solid barrier to the flood, which +is stopped in its course; it then rises sometimes to the height of +thirty and forty feet, overflowing the adjacent country for miles, +and levelling the largest trees with the ground. The effects of this +frightful conflict are visible in all the lower grounds along the +river. The trading posts are situated on the higher grounds, yet they +are not secure from danger. Fort Good Hope was swept clean away some +years ago, and its inmates only saved themselves by getting into a +boat that happened fortunately to be at hand. The McKenzie opens about +the end of May, and is ice-bound in November. + +The tribes who inhabit the banks of the McKenzie, and the interior +parts of the district, are members of the powerful and numerous +Chippewayan family, and are known by the names of Slaves, Dogribs, +Rabbitskins, and Gens des Montagnes. The Loucheux, or Squint-Eyes, +frequent the post on Peel's River, and speak a different language; +their hunting-grounds are within the Russian boundary, and are +supposed to be rich in fur-bearing animals. The Loucheux have no +affinity with the Chippewayan tribes, nor with their neighbours, the +Esquimaux, with whom, however, they maintain constant intercourse, +though not always of the most friendly kind, violent quarrels +frequently occurring between them. The various dialects spoken by +the other tribes are intelligible to all; in manners, customs, and +personal appearance, there is also the closest similarity. + +In one point, however, these tribes differ, not only from the parent +tribe, but from all the other tribes of America;--they treat their +women with the utmost kindness, the men performing all the drudgery +that usually falls to the women. Here the men are the hewers of +wood and drawers of water; they even clear away the snow for the +encampment; and, in short, perform every laborious service. This is +indeed passing strange;--the Chippewayans, and all other Indians, +treat their women with harshness and cruelty; while the women on the +banks of the McKenzie--Scottice--"wear the breeks!" The Rabbitskins +and Slaves are in truth a mild, harmless, and even a timid race; could +it be this softness of disposition that induced the weaker sex first +to dispute, and finally to assume the supremacy?--or what cause can be +assigned for a trait so peculiar in this remotely situated portion of +the Indian race? + +These tribes clothe themselves with the skins of rabbits, and feed on +their flesh; when the rabbits fail, they are reduced to the greatest +distress both for food and raiment. I saw a child that remained naked +for several days after its birth, its parents having devoured every +inch of their miserable dress that could be spared from their bodies: +it was at last swaddled in crow's skins! + +These two tribes generally live near the banks of the great rivers, +and seem disposed to pass their pilgrimage on earth with as little +toil, and as little regard to comfort, as any people in being. They +pass summer and winter in the open air; they huddle together in an +encampment, without any other shelter from the inclemency of the +weather than what is afforded by the spreading branches of some +friendly pine, and use no more fire than what is barely sufficient to +keep them from freezing. Their wants are few, and easily provided +for; when they have killed a few deer to afford them sinews for making +rabbit-snares, they may be said to be independent for the remainder of +the season. Their work consists in setting those snares, carrying home +the game caught in them, eating them when cooked, and then lying down +to sleep. A taste, however, for articles of European manufacture is +gaining ground among them, and to obtain those articles a more active +life is necessary, so that some tolerable fur-hunters are now to be +found among them. + +The Dogribs occupy the barren grounds that are around Great Bear Lake, +and extend to the Copper-mine River. That part of the country abounds +in rein-deer, whose skin and flesh afford food and raiment to the +natives. They are a strong, athletic, well-formed race of Indians, and +are considered more warlike than their neighbours, who evidently dread +them. + +None of the Indians who frequent the posts on McKenzie's River have +hereditary chiefs; the dignity is conferred by the gentlemen in charge +of posts on the best hunters. On these occasions a suit of clothes +is bestowed, the most valued article of which is a coat of coarse red +cloth, decorated with lace; and, as the reward of extraordinary merit, +a felt hat is added, ornamented in the same manner, with a feather +stuck in the side of it. Thus equipped, the new-made chief sallies +forth to receive the gratulations of his admiring friends and +relatives, among whom the coat is ultimately divided, and probably +finishes its course in the shape of a tobacco-pouch. In course of +time, the individuals thus distinguished obtain some weight in the +councils of their people, but their influence is very limited; the +whole of the Chippewayan tribes seem averse to superior rule. + +Like the Esquimaux and Carriers, they seem to have had no idea of +religion prior to the settlement of Europeans among them; all the +terms they at present use in reference to the subject seem of recent +origin, and invented by the interpreters. They name the Deity, "Ya +ga ta-that-hee-hee,"--"The Man who reclines on the sky;" angels are +called "the birds of the Deity,"--"ya gat he-be e Yadze;" the devil, +"Ha is linee," or, "the sorcerer." + +The Slaves and Rabbitskins have also their magicians, whom alone they +fear and reverence. Polygamy is not common, yet there are instances of +one man having two _female masters_. In times of famine the cravings +of hunger often drive these poor Indians to desperation, when the +feelings of humanity and of nature seem utterly eradicated. + +During the fearful distress of the two past years, a band of Slaves +came to Fort Simpson in a condition not to be described. Many of them +had perished by the way; but the history of one family is the most +shocking I ever heard. The husband first destroyed the wife, and +packed her up as provision for the journey. The supply proving +insufficient, one of the children was next sacrificed. The cannibal +was finally left by the party he accompanied with only one child +remaining--a boy of seven or eight years of age. Mr. Lewis immediately +despatched two men with some pemmican, to meet him; the aid came too +late,--they found the monster roasting a part of his last child at the +fire. Horrified at the sight, they uttered not a word, but threw the +provisions into the encampment, and retreated as fast as they could. A +few days afterwards this brute arrived strong and hearty, and appeared +as unconcerned as if all had gone on well with him and his family. +Cannibalism is more frequently known among the Slaves and Rabbitskins +than any other of the kindred tribes; and it is said that women are +generally the perpetrators of the crime; it is also said, that when +once they have tasted of this unhallowed food they prefer it to every +other. + +All the Chippewayan tribes dispose of their dead by placing them in +tombs made of wood, and sufficiently strong to resist the attacks of +wild beasts. The body is laid in the tomb at full length, without any +particular direction being observed as to the head or feet. Neither +they, nor any other Indians I am acquainted with, place their dead in +a sitting posture. + +It is affirmed by some writers that the Indians have a tradition among +them of the migration of their progenitors from east to west. I +have had every opportunity of investigating the question, and able +interpreters wherever I wintered; but I never could learn that any +such tradition existed. Even in their tales and legends there is never +any reference to a distant land; when questioned in regard to this, +their invariable answer is, "Our fathers and our fathers' fathers have +hunted on these lands ever since the flood, and we never heard of any +other country till the whites came among us." These tribes have +the same tradition in regard to the flood, that I heard among the +Algonquins at the gates of Montreal, some trifling incidents excepted. + +Unlike most other Indians, the Slaves have no fixed bounds to their +hunting-grounds, but roam at large, and kill whatever game comes in +their way, without fear of their neighbours. The hunter who first +finds a beaver-lodge claims it as his property, but his claim is not +always respected. + +Besides the Indians enumerated in the preceding pages, a number of +stragglers, but little known to us, occasionally resort to the post. +A band of these--nine in number--made their appearance at Fort Norman +this summer; and, after trading their furs, set out for Fort Good +Hope, with the avowed intention of plundering the establishment, and +carrying off all the women they could find. On arriving at the post +they rushed in, their naked bodies blackened and painted after the +manner of warriors bent on shedding blood; each carrying a gun and +dirk in his hands. + +The chief, on being presented with the usual gratuity--a piece of +tobacco, rudely refused it; and commenced a violent harangue against +the whites, charging them with the death of all the Indians who had +perished by hunger during the last three years; and finally challenged +M. Dechambault, the gentleman in charge of the post, to single +combat. M. Dechambault, _dicto citius_, instantly sprung upon him, +and twisting his arm into his long hair, laid him at his feet; and +pointing his dagger at his throat, dared him to utter another word. +So sudden and unexpected was this intrepid act, that the rest of the +party looked on in silent astonishment, without power to assist their +fallen chief, or revenge his disgrace. M. Dechambault was too generous +to strike a prostrate foe, even although a savage, but allowed the +crest-fallen chief to get on his legs again; and thus the affair +ended. + +The Company owe the safety of the establishment to Mr. D.'s +intrepidity: had he hesitated to act at the decisive moment, the game +was up with him, for he had only two lads with him, on whose aid he +could place but little reliance. Mr. D. has been thirty years in the +Company's service, and is still a _clerk_; but he is himself to blame +for his want of promotion, having been so inconsiderate as to allow +himself to be born in Canada, a crime which admits of no expiation. + +This district is at present by far the richest in furs of any in the +country; this is owing partly to the indolence of the natives, and +partly to the circumstance of the beaver in some localities being, +through the barrenness of the surrounding country, inaccessible to the +hunter. When the haunts of the animal become overcrowded, they send +forth colonies to other quarters. + +At the first arrival of the Europeans, large animals, especially +moose and wood rein-deer, were abundant everywhere. In those times the +resources of the district were adequate to the supply of provisions +for every purpose; whereas, of late years, we have been under the +necessity of applying for assistance to other districts. + +A new field has lately been laid open for the extension of the trade +of this district. An enterprising individual--Mr. R. Campbell--having +been for several years employed in exploring the interior, last summer +succeeded in finding his way to the west side of the Rocky Mountain +chain. The defile he followed led him to the banks of a very large +river, on which he embarked with his party of hardy pioneers; and +following its course for several days through a charming country, +rich in game of every description--elk, rein-deer, and beaver, he +eventually fell in with Indians, who received them kindly, although +they had never seen Europeans before. From them he learned that a +party of whites, Russians of course, had ascended the river in the +course of the summer, had quarrelled with the natives, and killed +several of them; and that the whites had returned forthwith to the +coast. These friendly Indians entreated Mr. C. to proceed no farther, +representing that he and his party were sure to fall victims to their +revenge. This, however, could not shake his resolution; he had set out +with the determination of proceeding to the sea at all hazards, and no +prospect of danger could turn him from it; till his party refused to +proceed farther on any conditions, when he was compelled to return. + +The returns of this district have, for years past, averaged 12,000l. +per annum; the outfit, including supplies for officers and servants, +has not exceeded as many hundreds. The affairs of the different posts +are managed by seven or eight clerks and postmasters; and there are +about forty hired servants--Europeans, Canadians, and half-breeds; +Indians are hired for the trip to the portage. The living for some +years past has not been such as Gil Blas describes, as "fit to tickle +the palate of a bishop;" at Fort Simpson we had, for the most part +of the season, fish and potatoes for breakfast, potatoes and fish +for dinner, and cakes made of flour and grease for supper. The fish +procured in this quarter is of a very inferior quality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + MR. MACPHERSON ASSUMES THE COMMAND--I AM APPOINTED TO FORT + LIARD, BUT EXCHANGE FOR GREAT SLAVE LAKE--THE INDIANS--RESOLVE + TO QUIT THE SERVICE--PHENOMENA OF THE LAKE. + + +On the 2d of October Mr. McPherson arrived from Canada, and I +forthwith demitted the charge. I was now appointed to Fort Liard, but +the season being far advanced, it had been found necessary to appoint +another previously, whose arrangements for the season being completed, +it was deemed expedient that I should pass the winter at Great Slave +Lake; and I embarked for that station accordingly on the 4th, and +arrived on the 16th. + +This post formerly belonged to Athabasca, but is now transferred +to McKenzie's River district. The natives consist of Chippewayans, +properly so called, and Yellow Knives, a kindred tribe; the former +inhabit the wooded parts of the country, extending along the northern +and eastern shores of the lake; and the latter, the opposite side +extending towards the Arctic regions, where there is no wood to be +found; it abounds, however, in rein-deer and musk oxen. The Yellow +Knives were at one time a powerful and numerous tribe; but their +number has been greatly diminished by a certain disease that lately +prevailed among them, and proved peculiarly fatal. They also waged +a short but bloody war with the Dogribs, that cost many lives. They +muster at present between sixty and eighty men able to bear arms. + +The Chippewayans in this quarter are a shrewd sensible people, and +evince an eager readiness to imitate the whites. Some years ago a +Methodist Missionary visited Athabasca; and although he remained but +a short time, his instructions seemed to have made a deep impression. +They observe the Sabbath with great strictness, never stirring from +their lodges to hunt, nor even to fetch home the game when killed, +on that day; and they carefully abstain from all the grosser vices +to which they formerly were addicted. What might not be expected of +a people so docile, if they possessed the advantages of regular +instruction! + +Having fortunately a supply of books with me, and other means of +amusement, I found the winter glide away without suffering much +from ennui; my health, however, proved very indifferent; and that +circumstance alone would have been sufficient to induce me to quit +this wretched country, even if my earlier prospects had been realized, +as they have not been. From the accompt current, I find my income +as chief trader for 1841 amounts to no more than 120l.: "Sic vos non +vobis mellificatis apes;" and since things are come to this pass, +it is high time I should endeavour to make honey for myself, in +some other sphere of life. I therefore transmitted my resignation to +head-quarters. + +I cannot close this chapter without mentioning a singular phenomenon +which the lake presents in the winter season. The ice is never less +than five feet in thickness, frequently from eight to nine; yet the +water under this enormous crust not only feels the changes in the +atmosphere, but anticipates them. An approaching change of wind or +weather is known twenty-four hours before it occurs. For instance, +while the weather is perfectly calm, if a storm be at hand, the lake +becomes violently agitated the day before; when calm weather is to +succeed, it is indicated in like manner by the previous stillness of +the lake, even when the gale is still raging in the air. In summer +there is no perceptible current in the lake; in winter, however, a +current always sets in the direction of the wind, and indicates a +change of wind by running in a different direction. These curious +points have been ascertained by the long observation of our fishermen, +who, in the beginning of winter, bore holes in the ice for the purpose +of setting their lines, and visit them every day, both in order to +keep them open, and to take up what fish may be caught. + +In consequence of the frequent shifting of the current, they +experience no little difficulty in adjusting their lines, the current +being occasionally so strong as to raise them to an angle of forty +degrees. Thus, if the lines were too long, and the current not very +strong, they would drag on the bottom; if too short, and the current +strong, they would be driven up upon the ice. The approach of a storm +is indicated, not by any heaving of the ice, but by the strength of +the current, and the roaring of the waves under the ice, which is +distinctly heard at a considerable distance, and is occasionally +increased by the collision of detached masses of broken ice, which, in +the earlier part of the season, have been driven under the main crust. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + REFLECTIONS--PROSPECTS IN THE SERVICE--DECREASE OF THE + GAME--COMPANY'S POLICY IN CONSEQUENCE--APPEAL OF THE + INDIANS--MEANS OF PRESERVING THEM, AND IMPROVING THEIR + CONDITION--ABOLITION OF THE CHARTER--OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. + + +The history of my career may serve as a warning to those who may be +disposed to enter the Hudson's Bay Company's service. They may learn +that, from the moment they embark in the Company's canoes at Lachine, +or in their ships at Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized +man most values on earth. They bid adieu to their family and friends, +probably for ever; for if they should remain long enough to attain the +promotion that allows them the privilege of revisiting their native +land--a period of from twenty to twenty-five years--what changes does +not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? They bid adieu to all +the comforts and conveniences of civilized life, to vegetate at some +desolate, solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, from any other +human habitation, save the wig-wam of the savage; without any other +society than that of their own thoughts, or of the two or three +humble individuals who share their exile. They bid adieu to all +the refinement and cultivation of civilized life, not unfrequently +becoming semi-barbarians,--so altered in habits and sentiments, that +they not only become attached to savage life, but eventually lose all +relish for any other. + +I can give good authority for this. The Governor, writing me last +year regarding some of my acquaintances who had recently retired, +observes--"They are comfortably settled, but apparently at a loss what +to do with themselves; and sigh for the Indian country, the squaws, +and skins, and savages." + +Such are the rewards the Indian trader may expect;--add to these, in +a few cases, the acquisition of some thousands, which, after forty +years' exile, he has neither health, nor strength, nor taste to enjoy. +Few instances have occurred of gentlemen retiring with a competency +under thirty-five or forty years' servitude, even in the best days of +the trade; what period may be required to attain that object in these +times, is a question not easily solved. Up to 1840, one eighty-fifth +share had averaged 400l. per annum; since then, however, the dividends +have been on the decline, nor are they ever likely to reach the same +amount, for several reasons,--the chief of which is the destruction of +the fur-bearing animals. + +In certain parts of the country, it is the Company's policy to destroy +them along the whole frontier; and our general instructions recommend +that every effort be made to lay waste the country, so as to offer no +inducement to petty traders to encroach on the Company's limits. Those +instructions have indeed had the effect of ruining the country, but +not of protecting the Company's domains. Along the Canadian frontier, +the Indians, finding no more game on their own lands, push beyond the +boundary, and not only hunt on the Company's territory, but carry a +supply of goods with them, which they trade with the natives. Their +Honours' fiat has also nearly swept away the fur animals on the west +side of the Rocky Mountains; yet I doubt whether all this precaution +will ensure the integrity of their domains. The Americans have taken +possession of the Columbia, and will speedily multiply and increase: +ere many years their trappers will be found scouring the interior, +from the banks of the Columbia to New Caledonia, and probably +penetrating to the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Should they +do so, that valuable part of the country embraced by the Peace and +McKenzie Rivers would soon be ruined; for the white trapper makes +a clean sweep wherever he goes. Taking all these circumstances +into consideration, I do not see any great probability--to say the +least--that the trade will ever attain the prosperity of days bygone. + +Even in such parts of the country as the Company endeavour to +preserve, both the fur-bearing and larger animals have of late become +so scarce, that some tribes are under the necessity of quitting their +usual hunting-grounds. A certain gentleman, in charge of a district to +which some of those Indians withdrew, on being censured for harbouring +them in his vicinity, writes thus:--"Pray, is it surprising, that poor +Indians, whose lives are in jeopardy, should relish a taste of buffalo +meat? It is not the Chippewayans alone that leave their lands to go +in search of food to preserve their lives; the Strongwood Crees and +Assineboines are all out in the plains, because, as they affirm, their +usual hunting-grounds are so exhausted that they cannot live upon +them. It is no wish of mine that those Indians should visit us--we +have trouble enough with our own,--but to turn a poor Indian out of +doors, who arrives at the Company's establishment nearly dead with +hunger, is what I am not able to do." + +In the work already quoted I find it stated "that the Company have +carefully nursed the various animals, removing their stations from the +various districts where they had become scarce, and taking particular +care to preserve the female while pregnant! instead, therefore, of +being in a state of diminution, as generally supposed, the produce is +increasing throughout their domains." Fudge! It is unnecessary to +say, that if this statement were correct, we should not hear such +distressing accounts of starvation throughout the country. No people +can be more attached to their native soil than the Indians; and it is +only the most pressing necessity that ever compels them to remove. + +In 1842 the Governor and Committee issued positive orders that the +beavers should be preserved, and every effort made to prevent the +Indians from killing them for a period of three years. This was, in a +great measure, "shutting the stable door after the steed was stolen." +The beavers had already been exterminated in many parts of the +country; and even where some were yet to be found, our injunctions to +the natives to preserve them had but little weight. To appease their +hunger they killed whatever game came in their way, and as we were +not permitted to buy the beaver skins, they either converted them into +articles of clothing for themselves or threw them away. Now (1845) the +restriction is removed, and the beavers have sensibly increased; but +mark the result: the natives are not only encouraged but strenuously +urged to hunt, in order that the parties interested may indemnify +themselves for their lost time; and ere three years more shall have +elapsed, the beaver will be found scarcer than ever. + +It is thus evident that whatever steps their Honours may take to +preserve the game, the attainment of that object, in the present +exhausted state of the country, is no longer practicable. + +As to the Company's having ever issued orders, or recommended any +particular measures for the preservation of the larger animals, male +or female, the statement is positively untrue. The minutes of the +Council are considered the statutes of the land, and in them the +provision districts are directed to furnish so many bags of pemmican, +so many bales of dry meat, and so many cwt. of grease, every year; and +no reference whatever is made to restrictions of any kind in killing +the animals. The fact is, the provisions must be forthcoming whatever +be the consequence; our business cannot be carried on without them. + +That the natives wantonly destroy the game in years of deep snow is +true enough; but the snow fell to as great a depth before the advent +of the whites as after, and the Indians were as prone to slaughter the +animals then as now; yet game of every description abounded and +want was unknown. To what cause then are we to ascribe the present +scarcity? There can be but one answer--to the destruction of the +animals which the prosecution of the fur-trade involves. + +As the country becomes impoverished, the Company reduce their outfits +so as to ensure the same amount of profit,--an object utterly beyond +their reach, although economy is pushed to the extreme of parsimony; +and thus, while the game becomes scarcer, and the poor natives require +more ammunition to procure their living, their means of obtaining +it, instead of being increased, are lessened. As an instance of the +effects of this policy, I shall mention what recently occurred in the +Athabasca district. + +Up to 1842 the transport of the outfit required four boats, when it +was reduced to three. The reduction in the article of ammunition was +felt so severely by the Chippewayans, that the poor creatures, in +absolute despair, planned a conspiracy to carry off the gentleman at +the head of affairs, and retain him until the Company should restore +the usual outfit. + +Despair alone could have suggested such an idea to the Chippewayans, +for they have ever been the friends of the white man. Mr. Campbell, +however, who had passed his life among them, conducted himself with so +much firmness and judgment, that, although the natives had assembled +in his hall with the intention of carrying their design into +execution, the affair passed over without any violence being +attempted. + +The general outfit for the whole northern department amounted in 1835, +to 31,000l.; now (1845) it is reduced to 15,000l., of which one-third +at least is absorbed by the stores at Red River settlement, and a +considerable portion of the remainder by the officers and servants of +the Company throughout the country. I do not believe that more than +one half of the outfit goes to the Indians. + +While the resources of the country are thus becoming yearly more and +more exhausted, the question naturally suggests itself, What is to +become of the natives when their lands can no longer furnish the means +of subsistence? This is indeed a serious question, and well worthy of +the earnest attention of the philanthropist. While Britain makes such +strenuous exertions in favour of the sable bondsmen of Africa, and +lavishes her millions to free them from the yoke, can nothing be done +for the once noble, but now degraded, aborigines of America? Are +they to be left to the tender mercies of the trader until famine and +disease sweep them from the earth? People of Britain! the Red Men of +America thus appeal to you;--from the depths of their forest they send +forth their cry-- + + "Brethren! beyond the Great Salt Lake, we, the Red Men of America + salute you:-- + "Brethren! + +"We hear that you are a great and a generous people; that you are as +valiant as generous; and that you freely shed your blood and scatter +your gold in defence of the weak and oppressed; if it be so, you will +open your ears to our plaints. + +"Brethren! Our ancients still remember when the Red Men were numerous +and happy; they remember the time when our lands abounded with game; +when the young men went forth to the chase with glad hearts and +vigorous limbs, and never returned empty; in those days our camps +resounded with mirth and merriment; our youth danced and enjoyed +themselves; they anointed their bodies with fat; the sun never set on +a foodless wigwam, and want was unknown. + +"Brethren! When your kinsmen came first to us with guns, and +ammunition, and other good things the work of your hands, we were glad +and received them joyfully; our lands were then rich, and yielded with +little toil both furs and provisions to exchange for the good things +they brought us. + +"Brethren! Your kinsmen are still amongst us; they still bring us +goods, and now we cannot want them; without guns and ammunition we +must die. Brethren! our fathers were urged by the white men to hunt; +our fathers listened to them; they ranged wood and plain to gratify +their wishes; and now our lands are ruined, our children perish with +hunger. + +"Brethren! We hear that you have another Great Chief who rules over +you, to whom even our great trading Chief must bow; we hear that this +great and good Chief desires the welfare of all his children; we hear +that to him the white man and the red are alike, and, wonderful to +be told! that he asks neither furs nor game in return for his bounty. +Brethren! we feel that we can no longer exist as once we did; we +implore your Great Chief to shield us in our present distress; we +desire to be placed under his immediate care, and to be delivered +from the rule of the trading Chief who only wants our furs, and cares +nothing for our welfare. + +"Brethren! Some of your kinsmen visited us lately; they asked neither +our furs nor our flesh; their sojourn was short; but we could see +they were good men; they advised us for our good, and we listened to +them. Brethren! We humbly beseech your Great Chief that he would send +some of those good men to live amongst us: we desire to be taught +to worship the Great Spirit in the way most pleasing to him: without +teachers among us we cannot learn. We wish to be taught to till the +ground, to sow and plant, and to perform whatever the good white +people counsel us to do to preserve the lives of our children. + +"Brethren! We could say much more, but we have said enough,--we wish +not to weary you. + +"Brethren! We are all the children of the Great Spirit; the red man +and the white man were formed by him. And although we are still in +darkness and misery, we know that all good flows from him. May he turn +your hearts to pity the distress of your Red Brethren! Thus have we +spoken to you." + +Such are the groans of the Indians. Would to Heaven they were heard by +my countrymen as I have heard them! Would to Heaven that the misery +I have witnessed were seen by them! The poor Indians then would +not appeal to them in vain. I can scarcely hope that the voice of a +humble, unknown individual, can reach the ears, or make any impression +on the minds of those who have the supreme rule in Britain; but if +there are there men of rank, and fortune, and influence, whose hearts +sympathise with the misery and distress of their fellow-men, whatever +be their country or hue--and, thank God! there are not a few--it is to +those true Britons that I would appeal in behalf of the much-wronged +Indians; the true and rightful owners of the American soil. + +If I am asked what I would suggest as the most effective means for +saving the Indians, I answer: Let the Company's charter be abolished, +and the portals of the territory be thrown wide open to every +individual of capital and enterprise, under certain restrictions; let +the British Government take into its hands the executive power of +the territory, and appoint a governor, judges, and magistrates; let +Missionaries be sent forth among the Indians;--already the whole +of the Chippewayan tribes, from English River to New Caledonia, are +disposed to adopt our religion as well as our customs, so that the +Missionaries' work is half done. Let those of them who manifest +a disposition to steady industry be encouraged to cultivate the +ground: let such as evince any aptitude for mechanics be taught +some handicraft, and congregated in villages, wherever favourable +situations can be found--and there is no want of them. Let schools be +established and supported by Government--not mere _common_ schools, +where reading, writing, arithmetic, and perhaps some of the higher +branches may be taught; but _training_ and _industrial_ schools. Where +the soil or climate is unfit for husbandry, other means of improving +their condition might be resorted to. In the barren grounds, bordering +on the Arctic regions, rein-deer still abound. Why should not the +Indians succeed in domesticating these animals, and rendering them +subservient to their wants, as the Laplanders do? I have been informed +that the Yellow Knives, and some of the other tribes inhabiting these +desert tracts, have the art of taming the fawns, which they take in +great numbers while swimming after their dams, so that they follow +them like dogs till they see fit to kill them. + +Such, in brief, are the measures which, after much experience, and +long and serious consideration, I would venture to propose in behalf +of the Indians; and most happy shall I be if anything I have said +shall have the effect of awakening the public interest to their +condition; or form the groundwork of any plan which, by the blessing +of God, may have the effect of preserving and christianizing the +remnants of these unhappy tribes. + +It may be objected, that the Company have had their charter renewed +for a period of twenty-one years, which does not expire till 1863; +and that Government is bound in honour to sustain the validity of the +deed. But if Government is bound to protect the _interests_ of the +Hudson's Bay Company, is it less bound to protect the _property_ and +_lives_ of their weak, ignorant, and wronged subjects? The validity of +the original charter, the foundation of the present, is, however, more +than questioned: nay, it has been declared by high authority to be +null and void. Admitting its validity, and admitting that the dictates +of honour call for the fulfilment of the charter in guarding the +_profits_ of the few individuals (and their dependants) who assemble +weekly in the old house in Fenchurch Street; are we to turn a deaf ear +to the still small voice of justice and humanity pleading in behalf +of the numerous tribes of perishing Indians? Now, now is the time to +apply the remedy; in 1863, where will the Indian be? + +If it is urged that the measures I propose violate the charter, +deprive the Company of their sovereignty, and reduce them to the +situation of subjects; still, I say, they will have vast advantages +over every other competitor. Their ample resources, their long +exclusive possession of the trade, their experience, the skill and +activity of their agents, will long, perhaps permanently, secure to +them the greatest portion of the trade; while the Indians will be +greatly benefited by a free competition. + +If it be urged that the profits will be so much reduced by +competition, that the trade will not be worth pursuing; I answer, +that competition has certainly a natural tendency to reduce profits; +but experience proves that it has also a tendency to reduce costs. +A monopolist company never goes very economically to work; and, +although much economy, or rather parsimony, of a very questionable and +impolitic kind, has been of late years attempted to be introduced into +the management of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, a free and fair +competition will suggest economy of a sounder kind--the facilitating +of transport, the improvement of portages, and the saving of labour. +Where are the evils which interested alarmists predicted would follow +the modification of the East India Company's charter? + +I have spoken of restrictions to be imposed on those who engage in the +trade. These are;--that no one be allowed to engage in it without +a licence from Government;--that these licensed traders should be +confined to a certain locality, beyond which they should not move, on +any pretext;--and that no spirituous liquors should be sold or given +to the Indians under the severest penalties--such as the forfeiture of +the offender's licence, and of their right to participate in the trade +in all time coming. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + WESLEYAN MISSION--MR. EVANS--ENCOURAGEMENT GIVEN BY THE + COMPANY--MR. EVANS'S EXERTIONS AMONG THE INDIANS--CAUSES OF + THE WITHDRAWAL OF THE COMPANY'S SUPPORT--CALUMNIOUS CHARGES + AGAINST MR. EVANS--MR. E. GOES TO ENGLAND--HIS SUDDEN DEATH. + + +Allusion has been made in a former chapter to the Company's +encouragement of Missionaries; I shall now add a few facts by way of +illustration. + +The Rev. Mr. Evans, a man no less remarkable for genuine piety than +for energy and decision of character, had been present at several of +the annual meetings of the Indians at Manitoulin Island, and had felt +his sympathy deeply awakened by the sight of their degradation and +spiritual destitution. While thus affected, he received an invitation +from the American Episcopal Methodists to go as a Missionary among +the Indians resident in the Union. Feeling, however, that his services +were rather due to his fellow-subjects, he resolved to devote his +labours and his life to the tribes residing in the Hudson's Bay +territory. Having made known his intentions to this Canada Conference, +he, together with Messrs. Thomas Hurlburt, and Peter Jacobs, was +by them appointed a Missionary, and at their charges sent to that +territory. No application was made to the Company, and neither +encouragement nor support was expected from them. Mr. E. and his +brother Missionaries began their operations by raising with their own +hands, unassisted, a house at the Pic; themselves cutting and hauling +the timber on the ice. They obtained, indeed, a temporary lodging at +Fort Michipicoton, but they not only found their own provisions, but +the comforts of the establishment were materially increased by Mr. +E.'s and his interpreter's success in fishing and hunting. Late in the +fall, accompanied by two Indian boys in a small canoe, Mr. E. made +a voyage to Sault Ste. Marie for provisions: and on this expedition, +rendered doubly hazardous by the lateness of the season, and the +inexperience of his companions, he more than once narrowly escaped +being lost. + +Returning next season to Canada for his family, he met Sir G. +Simpson, on Lake Superior. Having learned that the Mission was already +established, and likely to succeed, Sir George received him with +the utmost urbanity, treating him not only with kindness but +with distinction; he expressed the highest satisfaction at the +establishment of the Mission, promised him his utmost support, and at +length proposed that arrangement, which, however apparently auspicious +for the infant Mission, was ultimately found to be very prejudicial to +it. + +The caution of Mr. E. was completely lulled asleep by the apparent +kindness of the Governor, and the hearty warmth with which he seemed +to enter into his views. Sir George proposed that the Missionaries +should hold the same rank and receive the same allowance as the +wintering partners, or commissioned officers; and that canoes, or +other means of conveyance, should be furnished to the Missionaries for +their expeditions; nor did it seem unreasonable to stipulate that in +return for these substantial benefits, they should say or do nothing +prejudicial to the Company's interests either among the natives, or in +their Reports to the Conference in England, to whose jurisdiction the +Mission was transferred. The great evil of this arrangement was, that +the Missionaries, from being the servants of God, accountable to Him +alone, became the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, dependent +on, and amenable to them; and the Committee were of course to be the +sole judges of what was, or was not, prejudicial to their interests. +Still, it is impossible to blame very severely either Mr. E. or +the Conference for accepting offers apparently so advantageous, or +even for consenting to certain restrictions in publishing their +Reports:--with the assistance and co-operation of the Company great +good might be effected;--with the hostility of a Corporation all but +omnipotent within its own domain, and among the Indians, the post +might not be tenable. + +For some time matters went on smoothly: by the indefatigable exertions +of Mr. E. and his fellow-workers, aided also by Mrs. E., who devoted +much of her time and labour to the instruction of the females, a great +reformation was effected in the habits and morals of the Indians. +But Mr. Evans soon perceived that without books printed in the Indian +language, little permanent good would be realized: he therefore wrote +to the London Conference to send him a printing press and types, with +characters of a simple phonetic kind, which he himself had invented, +and of which he gave them a copy. The press was procured without +delay, but was detained in London by the Governor and Committee; and +though they were again and again petitioned to forward it, they flatly +refused. Mr. E., however, was not a man to be turned aside from his +purpose. With his characteristic energy he set to work, and having +invented an alphabet of a more simple kind, he with his penknife cut +the types, and formed the letters from musket bullets; he constructed +a rude sort of press; and aided by Mrs. E. as compositor, he at length +succeeded in printing prayers, and hymns, and passages of Scripture +for the use of the Indians. Finding their object in detaining the +press thus baffled, the Governor and Committee deemed it expedient to +forward it; but with the express stipulation, that every thing printed +should be sent to the commander of the post as _censor_, before it +was published among the Indians. This was among the first causes of +distrust and dissatisfaction. + +Another source of dissatisfaction was Mr. E.'s faithfulness in +regard to the observance of the sabbath. As the Indians became more +enlightened they ceased to hunt and fish, and even to carry home game +on the sabbath day; and, as a matter of course, they would no longer +work for the Company on that day. But Mr. E. was guilty of equal +faithfulness in remonstrating with those gentlemen in the service with +whom he was on terms of intimacy in regard to this point of the Divine +law; and several gentlemen, convinced by his arguments, determined to +cease from working and travelling on the sabbath. + +One of them, Mr. C----l, while on a distant expedition, acted in +accordance with his convictions, and rested on the sabbath. The voyage +turned out unusually stormy, and the water in the rivers was low, so +that it occupied several days longer than it had formerly done; and +the loss of time, which was really owing to the adverse weather, +was charged on his keeping of the sabbath. From that day forth, +the encouragement given to the Missionaries began to be withdrawn; +obstacles were thrown in their way, and although nothing was openly +done to injure the Missions already in operation, it would seem +that it was determined that, if the Company could prevent it, no new +stations should be occupied--at least by _Protestant_ Missionaries. + +Not long after, Mr. E., finding that the Missions he had hitherto +superintended were in such a state of progress that he might safely +leave them to the care of his fellow-labourers, resolved to proceed +to Athabasca and establish a mission there. Having gone, as usual, to +the Commander of the post to obtain the necessary provisions, and a +canoe and boatmen, he was received with unusual coldness. He asked +provisions,--none could be given; he offered to purchase them,--the +commander refused to sell him any. He begged a canoe,--it was denied +him; and finally, when he intreated that, if he should be able to +procure those necessaries elsewhere, he might at least be allowed a +couple of men to assist him on the voyage, he was answered that none +would be allowed to go on that service. Deeply grieved, but nothing +daunted, Mr. E. procured those necessaries from private resources, +and proceeded on his voyage. But a sad calamity put a stop to it; in +handing his gun to the interpreter it accidentally went off, and the +charge lodging in his breast killed him instantaneously. He was thus +compelled to return, in a state of mind bordering on distraction. + +Mr. E.'s zeal and piety promised the best results to the spiritual +and eternal interests of his Indian brethren. His talents, energy, +and fertility of resource, which seemed to rise with every obstacle, +had the happiest effects on their temporal well-being; and his mild +and winning manners greatly endeared him to all the Indians. But his +useful and honourable career was drawing to a close. The mournful +accident already alluded to had affected his health, and he now +received his deathblow. + +Yet, obnoxious as he had become to the Company, and formidable to +their interests as they might deem one of his talents and indomitable +resolution to be, the blow was not struck by them. It was dealt by +a _false_ brother; by one who had eaten of his bread: by a "familiar +friend, with whom he had taken sweet counsel." Charges affecting his +character, both as a man and a minister, of the foulest and blackest +kind, were transmitted to the Conference by a brother Missionary. To +answer these charges, as false as they were foul, he was compelled +to leave the churches he had planted and watered, to bid adieu to the +people whose salvation had been for years the sole object of his life, +and to undertake a voyage of 5,000 miles to appear before his brethren +as a _criminal_. As a criminal, indeed, he was received; yet after +an investigation, begun and carried on in no very friendly spirit to +him, truth prevailed. He was declared innocent, and the right hand +of fellowship was again extended to him. He made a short tour through +England, and was everywhere received with respect, and affection, and +sympathy. + +But anxiety, and grief, and shame had done their work. Scarce three +weeks had elapsed, when, having spent the evening along with Mrs. +E. in the family of a friend, whose guest he was, with some of his +wonted cheerfulness, Mrs. E. having retired but a few minutes, she was +summoned to the room where she had left him in time to see him pass +into that land where "the wicked cease from troubling." The cause +of his death was an _affection of the heart_. And that man--the +slanderer--the murderer of this martyred Missionary--what punishment +was inflicted on him? He is to this day unpunished! and yet lives +in the Hudson's Bay territory, the disgrace and opprobrium of his +profession and his church. + +Such are a few facts connected with the establishment of the Wesleyan +Mission in the Hudson's Bay territory, and illustrative of the sort +of encouragement given by the Committee to Protestant Missionaries. +By way of rider to these, I may just remind the reader that Roman +Catholic Missionaries have since been freely permitted to plant +churches wherever they pleased, even in districts where Protestant +Missions were already established. + +After all, this is not much to be wondered at, since Sir G. +Simpson openly avowed to Mr. Evans his preference of Roman Catholic +Missionaries; one reason for this preference being, that these never +interfered with the Company's servants, nor troubled them with any +precise or puritanical notions about the moral law. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + + RED RIVER--SOILS--CLIMATE--PRODUCTIONS--SETTLEMENT OF RED + RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS--COLLISION BETWEEN + THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY COMPANIES--INUNDATION--ITS + EFFECTS--FRENCH HALF-BREEDS--BUFFALO-HUNTING--ENGLISH + HALF-BREEDS--INDIANS--CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--STORES--MARKET FOR + PRODUCE--COMMUNICATION BY LAKES. + + +Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in the distant plains of the +south; and after receiving a number of tributary streams that serve to +fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the world possesses, +discharges itself into the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg in +lat. 50 deg.. The climate is much the same as in the midland districts of +Canada; the river is generally frozen across about the beginning of +November, and open about the beginning of April. The soil along the +banks of the river is of the richest vegetable mould, and of so great +a depth that crops of wheat are produced for several years without the +application of manure. The banks produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the +woods extend rather more than a mile inland. The farms of the first +settlers are now nearly clear of wood; an open plain succeeds of from +four to six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. Woods and +plains alternate afterwards until you reach the boundless prairie. +The woods produce a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the +eye and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, plums, +gooseberries, currants, grapes, and sasgatum berries in great +abundance. Coal has been discovered in several places, and also salt +springs. + +Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted with the natural advantages +of this favoured country by his North-West hosts in Montreal, +determined forthwith on adopting such measures as might ensure to +himself and heirs the possession of it for ever. Accordingly, on his +return to England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's stock to an +amount that enabled him to control the decisions of the Committee; +and thus, covered by the shield of the charter, he could carry on his +premeditated schemes of aggression against the North-West Company, +with some appearance of justice on his side. + +With the view of carrying out these schemes, he proceeded to the North +of Scotland, and prevailed on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to Red +River. To induce them to quit their native land, the most flattering +prospects were held out to them; the moment they set their foot in +this land of promise, the hardships and privations to which they had +hitherto been subject, would disappear; the poor man would exchange +his "potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman would become a +ruler and a judge in--Assineboine! Who could doubt the fulfilment +of the promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, soon +collected the required number of emigrants--for the Highlander of the +present day gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a country that +no longer affords him bread. + +At the period in question, Red River district furnished the principal +part of the provisions required by the North-West Company, and was a +wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, and abounding in the +larger animals--elk and rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the +plains. + +As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which discharges itself by +Neilson's river into Hudson's Bay, and could therefore be included +within the territory granted by the charter, our noble trader +concluded that, by taking formal possession of the country, he would +obtain the right of expelling other adventurers, merely by warning +them off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning were +disregarded, he could claim the aid of Government to enforce his +rights, and thus ruin the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's +Governor was therefore instructed to issue a proclamation, prohibiting +the North-West Company by name, and all others, from carrying on +any species of trade within Red River district, and ordering such +establishments as had been formed to be abandoned. + +The North-Westers read the proclamation, and--prosecuted their +business as before. In such circumstances quarrels were unavoidable, +but they were generally settled with _ink_; a collision ultimately +took place that led to the shedding of blood. The North-Westers had +collected a large supply of provisions at their depot, and were +about to forward it to the place of embarkation, when they were +informed--falsely, as it afterwards appeared,--that the Governor +intended to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, equally false, +was brought to the Governor, that the North-Westers had assembled a +strong force of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying rumours +led to an unhappy catastrophe. + +The Governor sent out scouts to watch the North-West party; +and ascertaining that they were on their march with an unusual +force,--which they had brought in order to repel the attack which they +supposed was to be made upon them,--he seized his arms, and marched +with his whole party to meet them. The North-Westers seeing them +approach, halted, and standing to their arms, sent forward one of +their number to demand whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace +or war. + +During the interview a shot was fired--it is a matter in dispute to +this day who fired it--the half-breeds immediately poured a volley +into the ranks of their opponents, and brought down nearly all the +gentlemen of the party, including the unfortunate Governor; the +remainder fled to the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe +entered together. Thus the poor settlers found themselves suddenly +surrounded by all the horrors of war; their anticipated paradise +converted into a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; their +little property pillaged, and their persons in the power of their +enemies. + +An arrangement, however, was entered into by the rival Companies, +that allowed the emigrants to take possession of the lands allotted +to them, and in the course of a few years their labour had made a +sensible impression on the forest. Cattle were sent out from England; +pigs and poultry followed, and honest Donald was beginning to find +himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams of future wealth and +happiness vanished in a moment. Red River overflowed its banks, +and inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary flood caused +immense loss; it overthrew houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly +ruined the crops of the season. The buffaloes, however, proved +abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions enough to prevent +starvation, and the settlers soon recovered from the effects of this +misfortune. Another calamity followed--the caterpillar appeared--at +first in small numbers, afterwards in myriads, covering the whole +land, and eating up "every green thing," and thus the crops were +destroyed a second time; but the consequences were not so severely +felt as formerly; the preceding season had proved extremely abundant, +and a sufficient quantity remained to supply the failure of this year. +Since that time the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed +peace; industry has its sure reward in the abundance of all the +necessaries of life which it procures. + +Since the coalition took place, Red River has become the favourite +retreat of the Company's servants, especially of those who have +families; here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. A lot of +one mile in length and six chains in breadth, costs only 18l.; and +they find themselves surrounded by people of congenial habits with +themselves, the companions of their youth, and fellow-adventurers; +those with whom they tugged at the oar, and shared the toil of the +winter march; and when they meet together to smoke the social pipe, +and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor prince nor prelate" can +enjoy more happiness. + +The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population at 5,000 souls; it +may now (1845) amount to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion +is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps 300 souls. The Scotch +carried with them the frugal and industrious habits of their country; +the same qualities characterise their children, who are far in advance +of their neighbours in all that constitutes the comforts of life. +These advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, to their +own good management; yet, notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding +that they are a quiet and a moral people, they are objects of envy and +hatred to their hybrid neighbours; and thus my industrious and worthy +countrymen, in the possession of almost every other blessing which +they could desire, are still unhappy from the malice and ill-will they +meet with on every side; and being so inferior in numbers, they must +submit to the insults and abuse they are daily exposed to, while the +blood boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, many of them +have abandoned the settlement and gone to the United States, where +they enjoy the fruits of their industry in peace. + +The French half-breeds and retired Canadian voyageurs occupy the upper +part of the settlement. The half-breeds are strongly attached to the +roving life of the hunter; the greater part of them depend entirely on +the chase for a living, and even the few who attend to farming take a +trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and marrow fat. They sow +their little patches of ground early in spring, and then set out for +the chase, taking wives and children along with them, and leaving only +the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops. + +When they set out for the plains, they observe all the order and +regularity of a military march; officers being chosen for the +enforcement of discipline, who are subject to the orders of a chief, +whom they style "M. le Commandant." They take their departure from the +settlement about the latter end of June, to the number of from 1,200 +to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at least six carts, and some +twelve; the whole number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his riding +nag and cart horses, he has also at least one buffalo runner, which he +never mounts until he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" is +tended with all the care which the cavalier of old bestowed on his +war steed; his housing and trappings are garnished with beads and +porcupine quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's wife or +belle can exercise; while head and tail display all the colours of the +rainbow in the variety of ribbon attached to them. + +The "Commandant" directs the movements of the whole cavalcade: at a +signal given in the morning by sound of trumpet--_alias_, by blowing +a horn,--the hunters start together for their horses; while the women +and servants strike the tents, and pack up and load the baggage. The +horses being all collected, a second blast forms the order of march; +the carts fall in, four abreast; the hunters mount; and dividing into +their different bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes +the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The third blast is +the signal for marching. They halt about two hours at noon, for the +purpose of allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same order is +observed as in starting in the morning. When they encamp at night, +the carts are placed in a circle; and the tents are pitched within +the enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the horses are +"hobbled" and turned loose to graze. + +All the arrangements for the night being completed, guards are +appointed to watch over the safety of the camp, who are relieved +at fixed hours. In this manner they proceed until they approach the +buffalo grounds, when scouts are sent out to ascertain the spot where +the herd may be found. The joyful discovery being made, the scouts +apprise the main body by galloping backwards and forwards, when a halt +is immediately ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters mount their +runners; and the whole being formed into an extended line, with the +utmost regularity, they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul +advances an inch in front of the line, until within gun-shot of the +herd, when they rein up for a moment. The whole body then, as if with +one voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd at full gallop; +each hunter, singling out an animal, pursues it until he finds an +opportunity of taking sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some +article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards recognised. The +hunter immediately sets off in chase of another, priming, loading, and +taking aim at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently secures +ten buffaloes at a "course;" from four to eight is the usual number. +He who draws the first blood claims the animal, and each individual +hunter is allowed whatever he kills. + +The moment the firing commences, the women set out with the carts, and +cut up and convey the meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of +bones and fat. Two or three days are required for the operation, when +they set out again; and the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient +quantity to load all the carts, each carrying about one thousand +pounds,--an enormous quantity in the aggregate; yet the herd is +sometimes so numerous that all this slaughter does not seem to +diminish it. + +The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, and some of the +dangers, of the battle-field. The horses are often gored by the +infuriated bulls, to the great peril--sometimes to the loss--of the +rider's life; serious accidents too happen from falls. There are no +better horsemen in the world than the Red River "brules;" and so long +as the horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. The falls +are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes the badger digs all over the +prairies; if the horse plunges into one of these, both horse and man +roll on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally happen from +gun shots in the _melee_; and it is said, I know not with what truth, +that a wronged husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails +himself of the opportunity presented by the _melee_ to miss the +buffalo, and hit a friend--by _accident_. + +A priest generally accompanies the camp, and mass is celebrated with +becoming solemnity on Sundays. The "brules" attend, looking very +serious and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when the cry of +"La vache! la vache!" scatters the congregation in an instant; away +they scamper, old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the +winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. Two trips in the year +are generally made to the prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo +hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage than of the +civilized man; it is a life of alternate plenty and want--a life +also of danger and inquietude. The Indians of the plain view the +encroachment of the strange race on their hunting grounds, with +feelings of jealousy and enmity. They are, accordingly, continually on +the alert; they attack detached parties and stragglers; they also set +fire to the prairies about the time the "brules" set out for the hunt, +and by this means drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to this +circumstance, the "brules" have returned with empty carts for these +two years past; and their only resource has been to betake themselves +to the woods, and live after the manner of the Indians. Could they +find a sure market for the produce of the soil, so as to remunerate +their labour, there can be little doubt but that they might be +gradually detached from the half-savage life they lead, and become as +steady and industrious as their neighbours. + +The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny of the British are +designated, possess many of the characteristics of their fathers; they +generally prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to the chase, +and follow close on the heels of the Scotch in the path of industry +and moral rectitude. Very few of them resort to the plains, unless for +the purpose of trafficking the produce of their farms for the produce +of the chase; and it is said that they frequently return home better +supplied with meat than the hunters themselves. + +The Indians who have been converted to the Protestant religion, are +settled around their respected pastor at the lower extremity of +the settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth of the river. The +Sauteux, of all other tribes, are the most tenacious of their own +superstitions; and it would require all the zeal and patience and +perseverance of the primitive teachers of Christianity to wean them +from them. But when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert is +the more steadfast in his faith; and his steadfastness and sincerity +prove an ample reward to his spiritual father for his pains and +anxiety on his behalf. + +The Indian converts are entirely guided by their Missionary in +temporal as well as in spiritual things. When he first came among +them, he found their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that +something more than advice was necessary to produce the desired +change. Like Oberlin, therefore, he set before them the example of a +laborious and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, he planted, he +reaped with his own hands, and afterwards shared his produce with +them. By persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining them +to his views; and, at the present moment, their settlement is in as +forward a state of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements. + +They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; their horses, +and cattle, and well-cultivated fields:--a happy change! A few years +ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond race; "hewers of +wood and drawers of water" for the other settlers, as their pagan +brethren still are; they wandered about from house to house, +half-starved, and half-naked; and even in this state of abject misery, +preferring a glass of "fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves +or their children. + +There are at present three ministers of the episcopal communion at Red +River. The Scotch inhabitants attend the church regularly, although +they sigh after the form of worship to which they had been accustomed +in early youth; they, however, assemble afterwards in their own houses +to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the manner of their +fathers. There are also three Roman Catholic clergymen, including +a bishop;--good, exemplary men, whose "constant care" is not "to +increase their store," but to guide and direct their flocks in the +paths of piety and virtue. But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people +to deal with;--the French half-breed, who follows the hunter's life, +possesses all the worst vices of his European and Indian progenitors, +and is indifferent alike to the laws of God and man. There are, +in all, seven places of worship, three Roman Catholic, and four +Protestant, including two for the Indians. + +The education of the more respectable families, particularly those +of the Company's officers, is well provided for at an institution +of great merit; the gentleman who presides over it being every +way qualified for the important trust. The different branches of +mathematical and classical learning are taught in it; and the school +has already produced some excellent scholars. In addition to the more +useful branches of female education, the young ladies are taught music +and drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. Thus we have, +in the midst of this remote wilderness of the North-West, all the +elements of civilized life; and there are there many young persons of +both sexes, well educated and accomplished, who have never seen the +civilized world. There are also thirteen schools for the children of +the lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves. + +The Company have here two shops (or stores), well supplied with every +description of goods the inhabitants can require; there are besides +several merchants scattered through the settlement, some of whom are +said to be in easy circumstances. The Company's bills constitute the +circulating medium, and are issued for the value of from one to twenty +shillings. Of late years, a considerable amount of American specie +has found its way into the settlement, probably in exchange for furs +clandestinely disposed of by the merchants beyond the line. The petty +merchants import their goods from England by the Company's ships; an +_ad valorem_ duty is imposed on these goods, the proceeds of which are +applied to the payment of the constabulary force of the colony. The +Company's charter invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive +and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor and Council enact such +simple statutes as the primitive condition of the settlement requires; +and those enactments have hitherto proved equal to the maintenance +of good order. A court of quarter sessions is regularly held for the +administration of justice, and the Company have lately appointed a +Recorder to preside over it. It is gratifying to learn, that this +functionary has had occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious +crime since his appointment. + +In the work to which I have so frequently referred, it is mentioned, +that a "certain market is secured to the inhabitants by the demand +for provisions for the other settlements." If by "settlements" the +miserable trading posts be meant, as it must be, I know not on what +grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure market, forsooth! A single +Scotch farmer could be found in the colony, able alone to supply the +greater part of the produce the Company require; there is one, in +fact, who offered to do it. If a sure market were secured to the +colonists of Red River, they would speedily become the wealthiest +yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries are always full to +overflowing; so abundant are the crops, that many of the farmers could +subsist for a period of two or even three years, without putting a +grain of seed in the ground. The Company purchase from six to eight +bushels of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three shillings per +bushel; and the sum total of their yearly purchases from the whole +settlement amounts to-- + + 600 cwt. flour, first and second quality. + 35 bushels rough barley. + 10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each. + 10 bushels Indian corn. + 200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour. + 60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each. + 240 lbs. cheese. + 60 hams. + +Thus it happens that the Red River farmer finds a "sure market" for +six or eight bushels of wheat--and no more. Where he finds a sure +market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven only knows--I do not. +This much, however, I do know,--that the incomparable advantages this +delightful country possesses are not only in a great measure lost to +the inhabitants, but also to the world, so long as it remains under +the domination of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession of, and +subject to the immediate jurisdiction of the Crown, Assineboine would +become a great and a flourishing colony--the centre of civilization +and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, who would be converted +from hostile barbarians into a civilized and loyal people;--and thus +Great Britain would extend and establish her dominion in a portion +of her empire that may be said to have been hitherto unknown to her, +while she would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of +her sons. + +In describing the advantages of this country, candour requires that I +should also point out its disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the +difficulty of the communication with the sea, interrupted as it is by +shoals, rapids, and falls, which in their present state can only be +surmounted with incredible toil and labour. Yet there cannot be a +doubt that the skill of the engineer could effect such improvements as +would obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, and that at +no very great cost. The distance from the mouth of Red River to York +Factory is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is formed of +lakes--(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in length, is navigable for vessels +of forty and fifty tons burden). The greater part of the river +communication might be rendered passable by Durham boats, merely +by damming up the rivers. Along the line of communication, many +situations may be found suitable for farming operations. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + SIR G. SIMPSON--HIS ADMINISTRATION. + + +Sir George Simpson commenced his career as a clerk in a respectable +counting-house in London, where his talents soon advanced him to the +first seat at the desk. He was in this situation when first introduced +to the notice of a member of the Committee of the Hudson's Bay +Company, who were at that time engaged in the ruinous competition with +the North-West Company already referred to. While the contest was +at its height, the Company sent out Mr. Simpson as Governor of the +Northern department;--an appointment for which, by his abilities +natural and acquired, he was well qualified. Mr. Simpson combined with +the prepossessing manners of a gentleman all the craft and subtlety of +an intriguing courtier; while his cold and callous heart was incapable +of sympathising with the woes and pains of his fellow-men. On his +first arrival, he carefully concealed from those whom he was about +to supersede, the powers with which he was invested; he studied +the characters of individuals, scrutinized in secret their mode of +managing affairs, and when he had made himself fully acquainted with +every particular he desired to know, he produced his commission;--a +circumstance that proved as unexpected as it was unsatisfactory to +those whose interests it affected. + +Making every allowance for Sir George's abilities, he is evidently +one of those men whom the blind goddess "delighteth to honour." Soon +after assuming the supreme command, the North-West wintering partners +undertook the mission to England, already mentioned, which led to +the coalition; and thus Sir George found himself, by a concurrence of +circumstances quite independent of his merits, placed at the head of +both parties; from being Governor of Rupert's Land his jurisdiction +now included the whole of the Indian territory from Hudson's Bay to +the shores of the Pacific Ocean; and the Southern department, at that +time a separate command, was soon after added to his government. Here, +then, was a field worthy of his talents; and that he did every manner +of justice to it, no one can deny. Yet he owes much of his success +to the valuable assistance rendered him by Mr. McTavish; at his +suggestion, the whole business was re-organized, a thousand abuses +in the management of affairs were reformed, and a strict system +of economy was introduced where formerly boundless extravagance +prevailed. To effect these salutary measures, however, much tact +was required: and here Sir George's abilities shone conspicuous. +The long-continued strife between the two companies had engendered +feelings of envy and animosity, which could not subside in a day; and +the steps that had been taken to bring about the coalition, created +much ill-will even among the North-West partners themselves. Nor were +the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company without their dissensions +also. To harmonize these elements of discord, to reconcile the +different parties thus brought so suddenly and unexpectedly together +into one fold, was a task of the utmost difficulty to accomplish; but +Sir George was equal to it. He soon discovered that the North-West +partners possessed both the will and the ability to thwart and defeat +such of his plans as were not satisfactory to themselves; that +they were by far the most numerous in the Council--at that time +an independent body--and the best acquainted with the trade of the +Northern department, the most important in the territory; and finding, +after some experience, that while those gentlemen continued united, +their power was beyond his control, and that to resist them openly +would only bring ruin on himself, without any benefit to the concern, +he prudently gave way to their influence; and instead of forcing +himself against the stream, allowed himself apparently to be carried +along with it. + +For a time, he seemed to promote all the views of his late +adversaries; he yielded a ready and gracious acquiescence in their +wishes; he lavished his bows, and smiles, and honied words on them +all; and played his part so well, that the North-Westers thought they +had actually gained him over to their own side; while the gentlemen of +the Hudson's Bay Company branded him as a traitor, who had abandoned +his own party and gone over to the enemy. + +The Committee received several hints of the Governor's "strange +management," but they only smiled at the insinuations, as they +perfectly understood the policy. His well-digested schemes had, in due +time, all the success he anticipated. + +Having thus completely gained the confidence of the North-West +partners, his policy began gradually to unfold itself. One +obstreperous North-Wester was sent to the Columbia; another to the +Montreal department, where "their able services could not be dispensed +with;" and thus in the course of a few years he got rid of all those +refractory spirits who dared to tell him their minds. + +The North-West nonconformists being in this manner disposed of, Sir +George deemed it no longer necessary to wear the mask. His old friends +of the Hudson's Bay, or "sky-blue" party, were gradually received into +favour; his power daily gained the ascendant, and at this moment Sir +George Simpson's rule is more absolute than that of any governor under +the British crown, as his influence with the Committee enables him to +carry into effect any measure he may recommend. That one possessed +of an authority so unbounded should often abuse his power is not to +be wondered at; and that the abuse of power thus tolerated should +degenerate into tyranny is but the natural consequence of human +weakness and depravity. The question is--Is it consistent with +prudence to allow an _individual_ to assume and retain such power? +Most of the Company's officers enter the service while yet very young; +none are so young, however, as not to be aware of the privileges to +which they are entitled as British subjects, and that they have a +right to enjoy those privileges while they tread on British soil. +The oft repeated acts of tyranny of which the autocrat of "all Prince +Rupert's Land and its dependencies" has lately been guilty, have +accordingly created a feeling of discontent which, if it could be +freely expressed, would be heard from the shores of the Pacific to +Labrador. + +Unfortunately, the Company's servants are so situated, that they dare +not express their sentiments freely. The clerk knows that if he is +heard to utter a word of disapprobation, it is carried to the ears of +his sovereign lord, and his prospects of advancement are marred for +ever; he therefore submits to his grievances in silence. The chief +trader has probably a large family to support, has been thirty or +forty years in the service, and is daily looking forward to the other +step: he too is silent. The chief factor has a situation of importance +in which his vanity is gratified and his comfort secured; to +express his opinion freely might risk the sacrifice of some of these +advantages; so he also swallows the pill without daring to complain of +its bitterness, and is silent. + +A very valuable piece of plate was, some years ago, presented to +Sir George by the commissioned gentlemen in the service, as a mark +of respect and esteem; and this circumstance may be adduced by Sir +George's friends, with every appearance of reason, as a proof of his +popularity; but the matter is easily explained. Some two or three +persons who share Sir George's favour, determine among themselves +to present him with some token of their gratitude. They address a +circular on the subject to all the Company's officers, well knowing +that none dare refuse in the face of the whole country to subscribe +their name. The same cogent reasons that suppress the utterance of +discontent compelled the Company's servants to subscribe to this +testimonial; and the subscription list accordingly exhibits, with few +exceptions, the names of every commissioned gentleman in the service; +while two-thirds of them would much rather have withheld their +signatures. + +Sir George owes his ribbon to the successful issue of the Arctic +expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson. His share of the +merit consisted in drawing out instructions for those gentlemen, +which occupied about half-an-hour of his time at the desk. It is +quite certain that the expedition owed none of its success to those +instructions. The chief of the party, Mr. Dease, was at least as well +qualified to give as to receive instructions; and Sir George is well +aware of the fact. He knows, too, that Mr. Dease was engaged in +the Arctic expedition under Sir J. Franklin, where he acquired that +experience which brought this important yet hazardous undertaking to +a successful issue; he knows also that in an enterprise of this kind +a thousand contingencies may arise, which must be left entirely to the +judgment of those engaged in it to provide against. + +Sir George, nevertheless, obtained the chief honours; but the bauble +perishes with him; while the courage, the energy and the perseverance +of Mr. Dease and his colleague will ever be a subject of admiration to +those who peruse the narrative of their adventures. + +Sir George's administration, it is granted, has been a successful +one; yet his own friends will admit that much of this success must +be ascribed to his good fortune rather than to his talents. The +North-West Company had previously reduced the business to a perfect +system, which he had only to follow. It is true he introduced great +economy into every department; but the North-West Company had done +so before him, and the wasteful extravagance which preceded his +appointment was entirely the result of the rivalry between the two +companies, and under any governor whatever would have ceased when the +coalition was effected. + +Not a little, too, of Sir George's economy was of "the penny-wise and +pound-foolish" kind. Thus it has been already observed, that the lives +of the Company's servants, and the property of an entire district, +were placed in extreme jeopardy by his false economy; and a +contingency, which no prudent man would have calculated upon, +alone prevented a catastrophe which involved the destruction of the +Company's property to a large amount, as well as of the lives of its +servants. But independently of this, he has committed several errors +of a most serious kind. Of these the chief is the Ungava adventure, +an enterprise which was begun in opposition to the opinion of every +gentleman in the country whose experience enabled him to form a +correct judgment in the matter; and this undertaking was persisted in, +year after year, at an enormous loss to the Company. Finally, he has +not even the merit of correcting his own blunders. It was not till +after a mass of evidence of the strongest kind was laid before the +Committee, that they, in his absence, gave orders for the abandonment +of the hopeless project. + +His caprice, his favouritism, his disregard of merit in granting +promotion, it will be allowed, could not have a favourable effect on +the Company's interests. His want of feeling has been mentioned: a +single example of this will close these remarks. A gentleman of high +rank in the service, whose wife was dangerously ill, received orders +to proceed on a journey of nearly 5,000 miles. Aware that his duty +required a prompt obedience to these orders, he set off, taking her +along with him. On arriving at the end of the first stage, she became +worse; and medical assistance being procured, the physicians were of +opinion that in all probability death would be the consequence if he +continued his journey. A certificate to this effect was forwarded to +Sir George. The answer was, that Madame's health must not interfere +with the Company's service; and that he must continue his journey, or +abide the consequences. + +In consequence of this delay, he only reached Montreal on the day when +the boats were to leave Lachine for the interior. He hurried to the +office, where he met Sir George, and was received by him with the cool +remark-- + +"You are late, Sir; but if you use expedition you may yet be in time +for the boats." + +He earnestly begged for some delay, but in vain. No regard was paid to +his entreaties; and he was obliged to hurry his wife off to Lachine, +and put her on board a common canoe, where there is no accommodation +for a sick person, and where no assistance could be procured, even in +the last extremity. + + + + +VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS IN USE AMONG THE TRIBES IN +THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | SAUTEU, or | | BEAVER | | + | ENGLISH. | OGIBOIS. | CREE. | INDIAN. | CHIPPEWAYAN. | + |-----------|---------------|-------------|--------------|--------------| + | One | Pejik | Pay ak | It la day | Ittla h[=e] | + | Two | Neesh | Neesho | Onk shay day | Nank hay | + | Three | Nisway | Nisto | Ta day | Ta he | + | Four | Neowin | Neo | Dini day | Dunk he | + | Five | N[=a] nan | Nay n[=a] | Tlat zoon e | Sa soot | + | | | nan | de ay | la he | + | Six | Ni got as way | Nigotwassik | Int zud ha | L'goot ha he | + | Seven | Nish was | Tay pa | Ta e wayt | Tluz ud | + | | way | goop | zay | dunk he | + | Eight | Shwas way | Ea naneo | Etzud een | L'goot dung | + | | | | tay | he | + | Nine | Sang | Kay gat me | Kala gay ne | Itla ud ha | + | | | t[=a] tat | ad ay | | + | Ten | Quaitch | Me ta tat | Kay nay day | Hona | + | Eleven | Aji pay jik | Payak ai | Tlad ay | Itla, ja | + | | | wak | may day | idel | + | Twelve | Aji neesh | Neesh way | Ong shay day | Nank hay, | + | | | ai wok | may day | ja idel | + | Twenty | Neej ta na | Neesh | Ong ka gay | Ta he, ja | + | | | tan ao | nay day | idel | + | Thirty | Nisway | Neo | Tao gay | | + | | mittana | meatanao | nay day | | + | Forty | Neo mittana | &c. | Deo gay | | + | | | | nay day | | + | Fifty | Nanan mittana | &c. | | | + | Sixty | Nigot asway | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Seventy | Nish was way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Eighty | Shwas way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Ninety | Sang mittana | | | | + | One | Ni goot wack | Me ta tin | Kay nay tay | Itla honan | + | hundred | | mittanao | | nanana. | + | How often | Anin. tas | Tan mat | Tan ay tien | Itla hon | + | | ink | ta to | | eeltay. | + | How many | Anin ain | Tan ay | Tan ay | Itla elday. | + | | tas ink | ta tik | tien | | + | How long | Anape apin | Ta ispi | A shay | Itla hon | + | since | aijo | aspin | doo yay | il tao. | + | When | Anape | Ta is pi | Dee ad | Itlao. | + | | | | doo yay | | + | To-day | Nongum | Anootch kee | Doo jay | Deerd sin | + | | kajigack | je gak | nee ay | o gay. | + | To-morrow | Wabunk | Wa bakay | Ghad ay zay | Campay. | + | Yesterday | Chen[=a]ngo | Ta goosh | Ghagh ganno | Hozud | + | | | ick | | singay. | + | This year | Nongum egee | Anootch | Doo la | Do uz sin e | + | | wang | egee | | gay. | + | | | kee wang | | | + | This | Wa a. | Awa pee | Teeay tee | Dirius | + | month | Ke[=e]sis | shum | za | a gay. | + | A man | Inine | N[=a] bay o | Taz eu | Dinnay you. | + | A woman | Ikway | Isk way o | Iay quay | Tzay quay. | + | A girl | Ikway says | Isk way | Id az oo | Ed dinna | + | | | shish | | gay. | + | A boy | Quee we says | Na bay | Taz yuz e | Dinnay yoo | + | | | shish | | azay. | + | Inter- | Oten way ta | On tway ta | Nao day ay | Dinnay tee | + | preter | ma gay | ma gay o | | ghaltay. | + | Trader | Ata way | Ataway | Meeoo tay | Ma kad ray. | + | | ini niu | ininiu | | | + | Moose- | Moze | Mozwa | Tlay tchin | Tunnehee | + | Deer | | | tay | hee. | + | Rein-Deer | Attick | Attick | May tzee | Ed hun. | + | Beaver | Amick | Amisk | Tza | Tza. | + | Dog | Ani moosh | Attim | Tlee | Tlee. | + | Rabbit | Waboose | Waboose | Kagh | Kagh. | + | Bear | Maqua | Masqua | Zus | Zus. | + | Wolf | Ma ing an | Mahigan | Tshee o nay | Noo nee yay. | + | Fox | Wa goosh | Ma kay | E. yay thay | Nag hee | + | | | shish | | dthay. | + | I hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni m[=a] | Na o zed | Naz uz ay. | + | | ay | tchin | | | + | Thou | Ki ge oz | Ki ma tchin | Nodzed | Nan ul zay. | + | huntest | ay | | | | + | He hunts | Ge oz ay | Ma tchio | Nazin zed | Nal zay. | + | We hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni ma | Naze zedeo | Na il zay. | + | | ay min | tchinan | | | + | Ye hunt | Ki ge | Ki ma | Nazin zedeo | Nal zin | + | | oz aim | tchinawao | | al day. | + | They hunt | Ge oz ay | Matchiwog | Owadie tzed | Na hal zay. | + | | wok | | | | + | I kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mi na | Uz eay gha | Zil tir. | + | | gay | hon | | | + | Thou | Ki ne ta | Ki mi na | Uz eay ghan | Zil nil tir. | + | killest | gay | hon | | | + | He kills | Ne ta gay | Minaho | Ud zeay gha | Tla in il | + | | | | | tir. | + | We kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mina | Uz ugho-ghay | Tla in il | + | | gay min | honan | uzin | dir. | + | Ye kill | Ki ne ta | Kim in a | Uz ugho ghay | Zee ool dir. | + | | gaim | honawa | uzin | | + | They kill | Ne ta | Minahowog | Utza ghay | Tla in | + | | gay wok | | agho | il tay. | + | I laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap in | Utzay rad | Naz-lo. | + | | | | lotsh | | + | Thou | Ki baap | Ki baap in | Utlint lotsh | Na-id-lo. | + | laughest | | | | | + | He laughs | Baape | Baapio | Utroz lotsh | Nad-lo. | + | We laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap | Utlo wod | Tlo | + | | imin | in an | lotshay | a-ee-el-tee.| + | Ye laugh | Ki baapim | Ki baapin | Tlodzud | Tlo gha | + | | | a wao | udzee | ee-ol-tee. | + | They | Baap ewog | Baapiwog | Tlodzud | Tlo-gha- | + | laugh | | | udzee | ee-el-tee. | + | I trade | Ni da ta | Ni da d[=a] | Mata oz lay | Naz nee. | + | | way | wan | | | + | Thou | Ki da ta | Ki da d[=a] | Mata an | Na el nee. | + | tradest | way | wan | eelay | | + | He trades | Ataway | Atawayo | Kita od | Na el nee. | + | | | | eenla | | + | We trade | Ni da ta | Nin da t[=a]| Mata ad oz | Na-da-ell | + | | way min | wan an | id la | nee. | + | Ye trade | Ki da ta | Ki da t[=a] | Mata a la | Na ool nee. | + | | way min | wan o wa | ozayo | | + | They trade| A ta way | Ata way wok | Ma t[=a] a | Eghon a el | + | | wok | | leeay la | nee. | + | I fight | Ni me gaz | Ni no ti | Magad ay a | Din[=i] gun | + | | | ni gan | | as tir. | + | Thou | Ki me gaz | Ki no ti | Magad osee | Dini gun a | + | fightest | | ni gan | ya la | ee dthir | + | He fights | Mi gazo | No ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gay o | | | + | We fight | Ni me | Nino ti ni | -- | -- | + | | gazomin | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye fight | Ki me gazom | Ki no ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gan a wao | | | + | They | Mi guz | Notini gay | -- | -- | + | fight | o wog | wok | | | + | I set | Ni bug-e | Ni bug-e | Zoo meet la | Tloo e | + | a net | ta wa | ta wan | uz loo | kanistan. | + | Thou | Ki bug-e | Ki bug-e | Too meet | Tloo e kan | + | settest | ta wa | ta wan | lan itlo | e than. | + | a net | | | | | + | He sets | Bug-e ta wa | Bug-e ta | Ta eet loon | Tloo e kan | + | a net | | wao | | ethan loay.| + | We set | Ni bug-e ta | Ni bug-e ta | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | wa min | w[=a]nan | hoon | oodthan. | + | Ye set | Ni bug-e | Ki bug-e | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | ta wam | ta-wan a | uz eo | eehtan. | + | | | wao | | | + | They set | Bug-e ta | Bug-e-ta-wa | Too milt at | -- | + | a net | w[=a] wog | wog | la oozoon | | + | I sail | Ni be mash | Ni be | -- | -- | + | | | mashin | | | + | Thou | Ki be mash | Ki be | -- | -- | + | sailest | | mashin | | | + | He sails | Bi mash e | Be mash eo | -- | -- | + | We sail | Ni bi | Ni bi | -- | -- | + | | mishimin | mashinan | | | + | Ye sail | Ki bi | Ki bi mashin| -- | -- | + | | mash im | a wao | | | + | They sail | Bi mash | Be mash | -- | -- | + | | i wog | i wog | | | + | I sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni ban | Zus tee ay | Thee id ghee.| + | Thou | Ki ni ba | Ki ni ban | Zin tee ay | Theend ghee. | + | sleepest| | | | | + | He sleeps | Ni ba | Ni ba o | Na gho tee | Thad ghee. | + | | | | azay | | + | We sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni b[=a]n| Zut ie tsho | Theed | + | | min | an | | gh[=a]z | + | Ye sleep | Ki ni bam | Ki ni ban | Tsuz ie | Thood ghaz | + | | | [=a] wao | tsho | | + | They | Ni ba wog | Ni ba wog | Tsugh ien | Hay ud | + | sleep | | | tiez | ghaz | + | I drink | Ni minik way | Ni minik wan| Uzto | Haysta | + | Thou | Ki minik way | Ki minik | Nadho | Nad-ha | + | drinkest | | wan | | | + | He drinks | Minik way | Minik way o | Ughiehedo | Ee ed ha | + | We drink | Ni minik | Ni minik | May ee ta | Heel tell | + | | way min | w[=a]nan | | | + | Ye drink | Ki mink waim | Ki minik | May lee | Hool tell | + | | | wan[=a]wao| ta la | | + | They | Minikway wog | Minikway wok| May atta | He el tell | + | drink | | | | | + | I want to | Ni we | Ni we | O ghoz to | Oz ta in | + | drink | miniquay | miniquan | | is tan | + | Drink | Minik quaine | Minik quay | Llhad ho | Ned ha | + | Eat | Wiss in | Mee tisso | In tzits | Zinhud hee | + | Sleep | Ni b[=a]n | Ni ba | Njuz ti ay | Dthin ghee | + | Go away | Eko k[=a]n | Awiss tay | E yow e | E you | + | | | | tshay | issay | + | Come here | Undass is | Ass-tum | Tee ad zay | E youk | + | | han | | | uz ay | + | Tell him | Win da ma o | Wi da ma o | Tee ay tin | Hal in nee | + | | | | day | | + | Trade | At[=a]waine | Ataway | Tee ay gho | Na il nee | + | | | | tsho | | + | Whence | Ande | Tante way | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | do you | wentchipai | to tay | dzin aghon | gho adzee | + | come? | an | | dee ay | an adee | + | Where | Ande aish | Tante ay to | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | are you | [=a]e an | tay an | de [=a]za | hee hee | + | going? | | | | ya | + | Be quick | Wee weep e | Kee-ee pee | Dzag ghay | Ee-gha | + | | tan | | | | + | I shoot | Ni bas giss | Ni bas giss | A jes tee o | A yous | + | | e gay | e gan | | kay | + | Thou | Ki bas giss | Ki bas giss | A tee tshe | Ahil kay | + | shootest| e gay | e gan | etsh | | + | He shoots | B[=a]s giss | Bas giss | Agha tee et | Ahil guth | + | | e gay | e gay-o | yetsh | | + | We shoot | Ni bas gisse | Ni bas gisse| Ateed yetsh | Ahel keeth | + | | gay min | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye | Ki bas gisse | Ki bas giss | Atad yetsh | Er. ool | + | shoot | game | e gan [=a]| | keeth. | + | | | wao | | | + | They | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss e | Aza du ghad | Tay ar el | + | shoot | gay wog | gay wog | yetsh | keeth. | + | A Gun | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss e | Tie yaz o o | Tel git | + | | gan | gan | | hay. | + | Powder | Makatay | Kas. ki tay | Al aizay | Tel ge | + | | | o | | gonna. | + | Shot | She shep ass | Nisk ass in | Noo tay | Telt hay. | + | | nin | ee a | ad-o o | | + | Give me | Meesh ish in | Mee an | Tes yay | Daz ee. | + | I give | Ki mee nin | Ki mee | Nan uz lay | Na gha on | + | you | | ni tin | | in in nee. | + | Look | In [=a] bin | Et[=a] bi | Ag gan eetha | Ghon el lee. | + | Wait | Pee ton | Pay ho | Ad oog-a. | Gad day. | + | Tobacco | Na say ma | Na stay mao | Aday ka yaze | Sel tooe. | + | Pipe | Poagan | Os poagan | Tsee ay | Dthay. | + | Net | Assup | A he apee | Too me | Dtka bill. | + | Fish | Kee k[=o] | Kee no | Tloo | Tloo-ay. | + | | | shay o | | | + | Flesh | Wee-ass | Wee ass | Ad zun | Berr. | + | River | See pe | See pe | Za ghay | D[=a]z. | + | Lake | Sa ka i gan | Sa ka i gan | Meet hay | Nad koo al | + | | | | | ta. | + | Water | Nee pee | Nee pee | Too | Too. | + | Summer | Nee been | Nee been |Ad o lay | Seen nay. | + | Winter | Pay poon | Pay pun | Ealk hay ay | Gh[=a] e | + | | | | | yay. | + | Spring | See goan | Me as gamin | Do o | Tloo guth. | + | Autumn | Tag w[=a] gin | Tag w[=a] | Edoo | Ghao ud | + | | | gin | aidlosin | azay. | + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service +in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + +***** This file should be named 16864.txt or 16864.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/8/6/16864/ + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the 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