diff options
Diffstat (limited to '16864.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 16864.txt | 6466 |
1 files changed, 6466 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/16864.txt b/16864.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6651ecb --- /dev/null +++ b/16864.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6466 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in +the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory + Volume II. (of 2) + +Author: John M'lean + +Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + + + + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +-----------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's note: Special characters | + | are encoded thusly: [=a], [=e], and | + | [=o] represent "a", "e", and "o" with | + | superior macron. | + +-----------------------------------------+ + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + +BY JOHN M'LEAN. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOL. II. + + +LONDON: + +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, + +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. + +1849. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS + +OF + +THE SECOND VOLUME. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Journey to Norway House 9 + + +CHAPTER II. + +Arrival at York Factory--Its +Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of +the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16 + + +CHAPTER III. + +Exploring Expedition through the Interior of +Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the +Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32 + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at +Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's +River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous +Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and +miraculous Escape 60 + + +CHAPTER V. + +Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a +Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward +Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable +Condition 81 + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the +Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of +the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return +by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava +River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the +Post 88 + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain +permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable +Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102 + + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and +Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118 + + +CHAPTER X. + +The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador +to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of +Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The +Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or +Canoe--Ouimiak, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131 + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European +Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155 + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at +the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The +Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The +Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New +York 167 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at +Albany--Journey to Montreal 187 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch +from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage +La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort +Simpson--Productions of the Post 193 + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of +the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of +Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The +North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the +Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted +207 + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the +McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La +Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My +Reply to the Governor 228 + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the +Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's +River District--Peculiarities--Distress through +Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity +of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241 + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard, +but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the +Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255 + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's +Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of +Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the +Charter--Objections answered 260 + + +CHAPTER XX. + +Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr. +Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the +Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to +England--His sudden Death 278 + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + +Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River +through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the +North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its +Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English +Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for +Produce--Communication by Lakes 289 + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311 + + * * * * * + +VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in +the Hudson's Bay Territory 323 + + * * * * * + + + + +NOTES + +OF A + +TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE + +IN THE + +HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE. + + +I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at +Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the +district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate +neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing +aspect of spring. + +Mr. F---- was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west +bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey +overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on +the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in +the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented +a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the +horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow--the +intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure +of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake +contributing to the variety of the landscape. + +Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in +consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever +they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, +began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to +allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared. + +On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which, +to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in +which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights +on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to +the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring +high grounds. + +On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge, +Mr. B---- having set off a few days before for the depot at Fort +Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who +entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day +we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against +this fare having completely vanished. + +Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River +and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the +Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are +there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find +subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords. +They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed +towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of +puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men +understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground, +which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; +and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community +and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any +one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during +their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself +by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by _pure_ +hands. + +We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles +found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we +advanced. The track left by Mr. B----'s party was of great service to +us. + +We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small +camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures +passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our +provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment +afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a +snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out +so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had +put the blood in circulation by walking. + +We overtook Mr. B---- on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and +worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow +indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted +the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded +horses to make a track. + +The country through which we have travelled for the last few days +is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the +traveller. + +We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left +bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to +the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of +the winter--an extraordinary circumstance, as there generally falls so +little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly +all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect +of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes, +&c.; they subsist on salmon and roots. + +Messrs. F---- and D---- arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of +April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring +servants. Mr. B---- accompanied us, having obtained permission to +cross the Rocky Mountains. + +We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly +reception from a warmhearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding +to the depot in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department +generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these +accounts--an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we +re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D---- and B---- behind; the former being +remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, having changed his mind, +in an evil hour for himself, returned to his old quarters; where he +was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian who had lost his father, +and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for +the absence of his children. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + ARRIVAL AT YORK FACTORY--ITS + SITUATION--CLIMATE--NATIVES--REIN-DEER--VOYAGE TO + UNGAVA--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA--SITUATION + AND ASPECT. + + +I arrived at York Factory, the depot of the Northern department, early +in July. This establishment presents a more respectable appearance +than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, and reflects no +small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly +executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected +since the coalition. When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the +buildings were of the most wretched description--the apartments +had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for +gentlemen. + +The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were +to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the +object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a +great expense; and the present commodious buildings were commenced, +but not finished by the projector. Other improvements have been made +since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that +could be expected in so unfavourable a situation. + +The depot is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted +by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks. Here there is always a +sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand +of the trade for two years--a wise precaution, as in the event of +any accident happening to prevent the vessel from reaching her +destination, the trade would not be interrupted. The very emergency +thus provided for occurred last autumn; the ship, after dropping +anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather +to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining +other serious damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward event, +the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the +interior with their outfits complete. + +The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered +unhealthy. In summer the extremes of heat and cold are experienced in +the course of a few hours; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen, +and before noon, duffle. Were the heat to continue for a sufficient +length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could +not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic +exhalations from the surrounding swamps. The ground, however, seldom +thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never +affected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy. + +One of Mr. McT----'s most beneficial improvements was to clear the +swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were +thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a great measure relieved +from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the +mosquitoes. These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared +ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for +his temerity. Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered +with them; defence is out of the question; the death of one is avenged +by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the unequal +contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his +quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door. + +There seems to be no foundation for the opinion generally entertained +that the natives do not suffer from the stings of these insects. The +incrustation of filth with which their bodies are covered undoubtedly +affords some protection, the skin not being so easily pierced; but no +incrustation, however thick, can be a defence against the attacks of +myriads; and in fact, the natives complain as loudly of the mosquitoes +as the whites. + +The Indians of this quarter are denominated Swampies, a tribe of the +Cree nation, whose language they speak with but little variation, +and in their manners and customs there is a great similarity. But the +Swampies are a degenerate race, reduced by famine and disease to a +few families; and these have been still farther reduced by an +epidemic which raged among them this summer. They were attacked by +it immediately on their return from the interior with the produce +of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes of being benefited +by medical advice and attendance. Their hopes, however, were not +realized; they were left entirely in charge of a young man without +experience and without humanity; and the disease was unchecked. Every +day the death of some poor wretch was made known to us by the firing +of guns, by which the survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened +away from the souls of their departed friends. + +Not many years ago this part of the country was periodically visited +by immense herds of rein-deer; at present there is scarcely one to be +found. Whether their disappearance is owing to their having changed +the course of their migrations, or to their destruction by the +natives, who waylaid them on their passage, and killed them by +hundreds, is a question not easily determined. It may be they have +only forsaken this part of the country for a time, and may yet return +in as great numbers as ever: be that as it may, the present want to +which the Indians are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of +those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded them food and clothing. +Their subsistence is now very precarious; derived principally from +snaring rabbits and fishing; and rabbits also fail periodically. + +Their fare during summer, however, soon obliterates the remembrance +of the privations of winter: fish is then found in every lake, and +wild-fowl during the moulting season become an easy prey; while young +ducks and geese are approached in canoes, and are destroyed with +arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired the use of their +wings. The white man similarly situated would undoubtedly think of +the long winter he had passed in want, and would provide for the next +while he could;--so much foresight, however, does not belong to the +Indian character. + +Fishing and hunting for the establishment affords employment to a few +Indians during summer, and is an object of competition among them, +on account of the incomparable gratification it affords--grog +drinking--to which no earthly bliss can be compared in the Indian's +estimation. To find the Company serving out rum to the natives as +payment for their services in this remote quarter, created the utmost +surprise in my mind: no excuse can be advanced which can justify the +unhallowed practice, when the management of the native population is +left entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued? Strange to say, +while Indians were to be seen rolling drunk about the establishment, +an order of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of ardent spirits +in any quantity exceeding two gallons to the Company's officers of +whatever rank, with the view of preventing the demoralization of the +natives! + +Most of the natives have a smattering of English, and are said to be +a quiet, harmless race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote +situation, and impoverished country protect them from the hostile +inroads of neighbouring tribes; hence the tame and pacific demeanour +by which they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often retires to +rest without a morsel to eat for himself or family, and that for days +together; yet he is under no apprehension from his enemies, and enjoys +his night's rest undisturbed; whereas, the warrior of the plain, while +he revels in abundance, seldom retires to rest without apprehension; +the hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his midnight slumber, +either to be butchered himself, or to hear the dying groans of his +family while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of man with good +and evil in every condition, whether civilized or savage. + +Every preparation for our departure being now completed, I took leave +of Fort York, its fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret. +We embarked on the 22d of August, in a brig that had fortunately +escaped the mishaps of the other vessels last autumn; and after being +delayed in port by adverse winds till the 26th, we finally stood out +to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert just come in. The fields of +ice, that had been observed a few days previously, having now entirely +disappeared, the captain concluded that the passage was clear for him, +and accordingly steered for the south. He had not proceeded far in +this direction, however, when we fell in with such quantities of ice +as to interrupt our passage; but we still continued to force our +way through. Convinced at length of the futility of the attempt, +we altered our course to a directly opposite point, standing to the +north, until we came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away for +the strait, making Mansfield Island on the 7th of September. We +encountered much stream ice on our passage, from which no material +injury was sustained; although the continual knocking of our rather +frail vessel against the ice created a good deal of alarm, from the +effect the collision produced, shaking her violently from stem to +stern. + +We were thus passing rapidly through the straits without experiencing +any accident worthy of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one +evening, how soon he expected to make the Island of Akpatok. He +replied, "To-morrow morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest +about ten, P.M., and I had not yet fallen asleep, when I heard +an unusual bustle on deck, and one of the men rushing down to the +captain's room to call him up. I instantly dressed and went on +deck, where I soon learned the cause;--a dark object, scarcely +distinguishable through the fog and gloom of night, was pointed out +to me on our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which we had been +rushing, propelled by wind and current, at the rate of thirteen knots +an hour, when it was observed. A few moments more, and we had been +launched into eternity. Had the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed +for a minute, or had the slightest accident occurred to prevent the +vessel from wearing at the very instant, our doom was certain. + +The western extremity of the Island of Akpatok, terminating in a +high promontory seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's edge, +formed the danger we had so providentially escaped. Next day we saw +the dismal spot in all its horrors. The island was still partially +covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation were discernible; but +a fresh breeze springing up we soon lost sight of this desolate spot, +and made the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about an hour after +sunset. The captain was a perfect stranger on the coast, and had but a +very imperfect chart to guide him; he nevertheless stood boldly in for +the land, and fortunately discovered the mouth of the river, which we +entered as darkness closed in upon us. + +By this time the breeze, that had carried us on so rapidly, increased +to a gale, so that if we had not entered the river so opportunely, +the consequences might have been serious. We were utterly unacquainted +with the coast, which presented a thousand dangers in the shape of +rocks and breakers, that were observable in every direction, as far as +the eye could reach to seaward; we therefore congratulated ourselves +on our fancied security--for it was only fancied, as will presently +appear. We kept firing as we approached the land, with the view of +apprizing the people of the post, who were directed to await us at the +mouth of the river. No sound was heard in reply until we had advanced +a few miles up the river, when we were gratified with hearing the +report of muskets, and presently several torches were visible blazing +a little ahead. + +The night was uncommonly dark, the banks of the river being scarcely +perceptible; and although it appeared to me we were much nearer then +than prudence would warrant, we still drew nearer, when our progress +was suddenly arrested. The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock, +and heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown on her beam-ends. +Swinging round, however, with the force of the current, she soon got +off again; and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped anchor. +Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came alongside in their canoes, who +gave us to understand by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the +post. + +Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, our Esquimaux made +signs to weigh anchor, which being done, one of them took his station +by the side of the helmsman, and never moved a moment from the spot, +pointing out the deep channel, with which he appeared well acquainted; +although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted in his countenance, lest +any accident should happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, when +he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep groan; he managed so well, +however, that he brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall. +From 10 A.M. until late in the evening we had only advanced +twenty-five miles, although we pressed against the current with +top-gallant sails set and a strong wind in our favour. + +Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey and myself determined +on rowing up to the post, where we arrived about four, P.M. I need +scarcely say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people so +seldom visited by strangers, in a situation which had no regular +communication as yet with any other part of the world. + +I was much gratified by the appearance of every thing about the +establishment. The buildings had just been finished with materials +sent out from England, through the considerate and kindly feeling of +the Committee, whose compassion had been excited by the accounts they +had heard of the miserable hovels in which the people were lodged when +the place was first settled. After passing an hour or two examining +the fort, (as it is called _par excellence_,) we returned to the +ship, and weighing anchor at an early hour the next morning, (11th +September,) we were soon brought up to the establishment, and landed +without loss of time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us no +small consolation, however, to reflect that we had no further cause to +apprehend danger from icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us +greater comfort as to living and accommodation than we had been led to +expect. + +The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped down with the stream on +the 15th, leaving us to reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary +prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, while the operation +of weighing was being executed, echoing from the surrounding hills, +suggested the question, "When shall that sound be heard again?" From +the melancholy reverie which this idea suggested I was roused by the +voice of my fellow exile, "the companion of my joys and sorrows," in +whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell. + +This post is situated in lat. 59 deg. 28', standing on the east bank of +South River, about thirty miles distant from the sea, surrounded by +a country that presents as complete a picture of desolation as can be +imagined; moss-covered rocks without vegetation and without verdure, +constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the eye in every +direction. A few stunted pines growing in the villages form the +only exception; and at this season of the year, when they shed their +leaves, contribute but little to the improvement of the scene. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR + OF LABRADOR--DIFFICULTIES--DEER-HUNT--INDIAN + GLUTTONY--DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY--PROVISIONS RUN + SHORT--INFLUENZA. + + +The Company having learned, through a pamphlet published by the +Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent +furs, were induced by the laudable desire of "ameliorating the +condition of the natives," to settle it; and a party was accordingly +sent overland from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of +1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left +both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company. + +Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a +settlement in this quarter, the profits derived from it added but +little to the dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance +like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be +found; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price, +they were far from plentiful; while the enormous expense of supplying +the district by sea, and supporting it on imported provisions, +rendered the "Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant +discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the +measure from the first. + +Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware +of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every +effort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the +returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the +interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at +the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast +of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from +thence by inland route; "there being no question of the practicability +of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers. + +Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and +represented to me the utter impossibility of carrying my instructions +into effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches +from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the +district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage, +placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a +very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst +by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This +vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance on the 22d of September, +and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two +years' consumption. + +Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the +difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the +natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining +there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an +early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo +on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey +to the reader. + +"_Tuesday, the 2d of January_, 1838.--I left Fort Chimo at eleven +A.M., accompanied by the following men, _viz._:-- + +"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian guides, who are to +accompany me throughout the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson +go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with +provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves. + +"_Wednesday, the 3d._--Left our encampment before dawn of day. +Excessively cold--some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our +principal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us, +set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having +proceeded about nine miles. + +"_Thursday, the 4th._--Started at seven A.M. Reached High Fall Creek +at nine A.M. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone, +finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at +half-past nine; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our +young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. We waited +till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely +exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles. + +"_Friday, the 5th._--Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five +A.M.; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 6th._--As the ice was covered with water close to our +encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off +at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence +of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It +continuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I +gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile. + +"_Sunday, the 7th._--Got up about three A.M., literally buried in +snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them +till eight o'clock, when we started with only half loads, with which +we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the +remainder; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the +tempest which had incommoded us so much last night had cleared the +ice of snow; we therefore returned for the property we had left; then +proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached +the lake; when my guides, discovering a herd of deer on an adjacent +hill, immediately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my +two _brules_. I saw at once my day's journey was at an end, and +accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us +in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed. +Proceeded eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 8th._--Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was +much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which +our route lay. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 9th._--Blowing a hurricane; the cold being also +intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the +risk of being frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters, +such as they were, until the weather should moderate. + +"_Wednesday, the 10th._--My guides appeared very unwilling to quit +their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They might +have been really ill; but the beastly manner in which they had been +gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the +cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore +sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their +choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled +through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen +miles. + +"_Thursday, the 11th._--Started at five, A.M. Soon fell on a large +lake, on which we travelled till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus +far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width. +As Mr. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these +inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to +the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best +quality; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of +the year. Proceeded fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 12th._--Being immoderately cold, and the wind blowing +direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake. + +"_Saturday, the 13th._--Weather fine. Left Erlandson's Lake about one, +A.M.; it still stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach, +and cannot be less than forty miles in length; its medium breadth, +however, does not exceed two miles and a half. The circumjacent +country is remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the highest +hills, and is reported by the natives to abound in martens. A few +industrious Indians would not fail to turn such advantages to good +account; but they can avail the Company very little, while the natives +alone are in possession of them. Went on twenty-four miles. + +"_Sunday, the 14th._--Set off at five, A.M. Passed over several small +lakes; the country well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon, +the banks covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced +sixteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 15th._--Took our departure at seven, A.M. Travelled +without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 16th._--Decamped at five, A.M.; the snow very deep in +the woods. Fell on Whale River at ten, A.M. The face of the country +presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river +it is generally well wooded, but afterwards becomes extremely +barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks. +Proceeded sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 17th._--Started at five, A.M. Our route in the +morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out +again on Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. The +appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday. +Proceeded eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 18th._--P. Neven being unable to travel from +indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue, +deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime +I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far +reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I +accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back. + +"_Friday, the 19th._--Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now +convalescent) and Mordoch Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I +and my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained a sled of dogs, +intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale +River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at +four, P.M. Fourteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 20th._--The moon affording no longer light to find +our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven +A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small +growth; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on +which we travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 21st._--Set off at seven A.M. About eleven, we fell on +the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully +examined; their experience not only enabling them to determine the +precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely +to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very +much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present +modicum of food, I determined on availing myself of an opportunity +which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians +accordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure +to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the +heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the +time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after +them a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the herd, which +immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our +guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain by +ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed +of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals +fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have +believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space +of time the kettle was disposed of;--and this, too, after their usual +daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the +other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles. + +"_Monday, the 22nd._--On examining the remains of the deer this +morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good +intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves so +sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for +their canine brethren. We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very +heavy in the woods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we +made better speed. Thirteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 23rd._--Travelled through woods the greater part of the +day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 24th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Our route lay through +swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens +appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have +discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our +route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers +frequent, are to be met with in every direction; but the country +produces no food for them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable +lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On +asking them if this were the lake where we intended to build, they +pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in +that direction!--so far had I been led from the route I intended to +have followed, notwithstanding the perfect understanding I had with +my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment. +Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles. + +"_Thursday, the 25th._--Immediately on leaving our encampment, we +fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be +George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed +our course over bare hills. Encamped at three, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Friday, the 26th._--Having passed the night in a clump of small +pines, which sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we +were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round +us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were +completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind +blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing +a hummock of wood close to us, we shaped our course for it, where we +were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees +to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing +with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty in +clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a +miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles. + +"_Saturday, the 27th._--Arose from our comfortless _couche_ at +half-past four. The snow having drifted over us, and being melted +by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our +blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying +them occupied us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very deep. +Proceeded nine miles. + +"_Sunday, the 28th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Snow still increasing +in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we +came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a +short distance; then followed the course of a small stream running in +an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our route lay over marshes +and small lakes; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with +larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles. + +"_Monday, the 29th._--Started at seven. Appearance of the country much +the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 30th._--Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking +heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength, +which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has +had to perform; always beating the track a-head, without being once +relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 31st._--Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a +few small birch trees. Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 1st of February._--Started at the usual hour. We have +been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past. +The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer, +are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently +pursuing a circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage, +subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions,--a contingency +which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can +afford no more food to the dogs; their load is now transferred to the +men's sleds. Fifteen miles. + +"_Friday, the 2d._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our route over +extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to +be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least +elevation commands a most extensive view; but the eye turns away in +disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present. +I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this +evening. Eighteen miles. + +"_Saturday, the 3d._--Set off at seven, A.M. Reached Michigama Lake at +one, P.M.; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped +on an island. Proceeded twenty miles. + +"_Sunday, the 4th._--Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted +for our scanty meal at ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our +march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island near the mainland on +the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here +repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay, +by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that +nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable +starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by +the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own +provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I +had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in +accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country. + +"_Monday, the 5th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Reached the mainland at +half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north-east, +which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the +lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The +Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, but miserably small pine, +thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen +miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 6th._--Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his +way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding; +when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace, +which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate. +Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 7th._--Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the +site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently +occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from +Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route, +required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to +Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree, +that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped +near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by +inaccessible precipices on both sides. The view above the fall is +interrupted by stupendous rocks; the natives say that the appearance +of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to +Michigama Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind +of craft. Eighteen miles. + +"_Thursday, the 8th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Fine travelling on +the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five +minutes past five. Twenty miles. + +"_Friday, the 9th._--Decamped at seven. Travelling good; the banks +of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We +observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles. + +"_Saturday, the 10th._--Started at eight, A.M. About noon we arrived +at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west. +Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward. +The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives +to be impracticable, and similar to the upper part. Our snow-shoes +being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose +of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles. + +"_Sunday, the 11th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our course +through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it +struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing +its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending +and descending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men +complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles. + +"_Monday, the 12th._--The weather being so much overcast that we +could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, A.M. +Encamped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles. + +"_Tuesday, the 13th._--Set off at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous +snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day; +we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant +recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide +told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in the +evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found +two of Mr. McGillivray's people, who were stationed there for the +purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles. + +"_Wednesday, the 14th._--The weather being unpropitious, and finding +ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day +enjoying the comfort of a roof. + +"_Thursday, the 15th._--Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn; +the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D. +Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely +incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire +was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to +lie down; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I +waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued my route, accompanied by +the Indians, leaving H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen +miles. + +"_Friday, the 16th._--Set off at four, A.M. Arrived at dusk at Port +Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and long +beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name. + +"_Saturday, the 17th._--An Indian was despatched early in the morning, +to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington +Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want +of food than medicine." + +Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at +present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy +or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of +their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an +understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing +to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so +conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation +among themselves, they expressed their intention to be guided by our +advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my +despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to +be forwarded thence to Canada, _via_ the Company's posts along the +Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay for my guides (who had +gone to pay the _kettles_ of their friends a visit), preparatory to my +departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than +I had calculated upon, from the prevalence of excessively bad weather +for a fortnight. + +Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned the same evening; but +they were so emaciated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking +like so many spectres--a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at +that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however, +declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load; +and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany his relative. Two +young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much +reduced as the others, I proposed to them to accompany me as far +as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they +consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along +with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself and two men, along with my +"husky" interpreter, followed next morning; but as we are to retrace +our steps by the same way we came, it will be unnecessary to narrate +the occurrences of each day. + +We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one +of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and +unable to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, did not +much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his +route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest +camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our +guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal +malady,--this was the climax to my disappointment. I determined on +returning to Fort Smith with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I +hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the +end of the season. + +I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the +dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson +in charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. On the morning +of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to +haul the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further +orders. + +My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing +sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis +of the malady; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered +strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which +I joyfully assented; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the +19th of March, and joined my men next day. + +Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I +started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength +enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of +provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. We +overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide +from his relatives while we pursued the same route. We arrived on the +30th at their last stage, and encamped together. + +Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my +guide, announcing his determination to proceed no farther, unless +Pellican were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately, +and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of +such a proposition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for +ourselves--that it would expose the whole party to the risk of +starvation; but I addressed a thing without reason and without +understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield. + +We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining +our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was +altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too +apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to +avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences; +and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two +parties,--the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort, +by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other, +which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to +absolute want. + +Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied by the guide and +H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson to make the best of his way, with the +Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the +provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were +soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved +to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on +the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present +circumstances, "food for the gods." Such as it was, it enabled us to +keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th +of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country +assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends--our +guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to +meet my rear-guard,--the other servants about the establishment, who +were accustomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer. + +On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with +Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he +replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles +distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could +not be prevailed upon to go a step farther; and that he (Pellican) +had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they +expected. They were within a day's journey of them; and yet the +wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, leaving the others +to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely; +yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, who have but +little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from +the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived, +were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing; and I had the +satisfaction to see my famished _compagnons de voyage_ arrive, on the +26th of April. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT--EXPLORING PARTY--THEIR + REPORT--ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX--ESTABLISH POSTS--POUNDING + REIN-DEER--EXPEDITION UP GEORGE'S RIVER--ITS + DIFFICULTIES--HAMILTON RIVER--DISCOVER A STUPENDOUS + CATARACT--RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA--SUDDEN STORM, + AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. + + +Having thus ascertained the impracticability of the inland +communication, I transmitted the result of my observations to the +Governor--a report which, I doubt not, proved rather unpalatable to +his Excellency, unaccustomed as he is to have any of his movements +checked by that impudent and uncompromising word--impossible. I +was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt had proved uncommonly +successful; so that I had now the means of carrying into effect the +Governor's instructions on this point. On the approach of spring, +preparations were made for establishing a post inland; guides were +hired for the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success. + +At this time I was visited by a very grievous affliction, in the loss +of my beloved wife, whose untimely death left me in a more wretched +condition than words can express. This was truly an eventful year for +me;--within that space I became a husband, a father, and a widower;--I +traversed the continent of America, performing a voyage of some +1,500 miles by sea, and a journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on +snow-shoes. + +As soon as the navigation became practicable (June 18), Mr. Erlandson +set off for the interior, with his outfit, in three small canoes, and +after much toil reached his destination on the 10th of July. On the +return of the men who had assisted in the transport, I fitted out +an expedition to explore the coast to the westward, with the view of +ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter, for the extension of +the business. The party was absent about a month; and their report +was entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying our "ameliorating +system" so far. The navigation of the coast is exceedingly dangerous, +from the continual presence of ice, and the extraordinary force of the +currents. While the coast proved so inaccessible, the interior of the +country wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect; not a tree, nor +shrub, nor plant of any land, is to be seen, save the lichens that +cover the rocks, and a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom our +people had seen, evinced the same amicable disposition by which their +whole race is distinguished. They received our people with open arms, +and some of the young damsels seemed disposed to cultivate a closer +intimacy with them than their ideas of propriety, or at least their +olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia that proceeds from +their persons in the summer season is quite insufferable; it is as if +you applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil. + +In the course of the summer, several Esquimaux arrived from the +westward, with a considerable quantity of fox-skins,--the only fur +this barren country yields. Some of these poor creatures had passed +nearly two years on their journey hither, being obliged to hunt or +fish for their living as they travelled. They set off on their return +with a little tobacco, or a few strings of beads;--very few having the +means of procuring guns and ammunition. + +Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the month of September, when +I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a +junior clerk appointed to the district. By him we received the first +intelligence of the stirring events that had taken place in the +colonies during the preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs of my +countrymen's arms over French treachery and Yankee hatred, diverted +my thoughts, for the first time, from the melancholy subject of my +late bereavement; the thoughts of which my solitude served rather to +cherish than dispel. + +Having learned from the natives that a river fell into the bay, +about eighty miles to the eastward, that offered greater facilities +for carrying on the business in the interior than our present +communication, I ordered the men who had assisted Mr. Erlandson, +to descend by this river,--an enterprise which was successfully +accomplished. Their report confirming that of the natives, I forthwith +determined on establishing a post there; and the season being now +far advanced, I had no sooner decided on the step than I set about +carrying it into execution. A party was despatched with every +requisite for the purpose, about the 15th of September; and I received +a communication from them in October, informing me that they had +discovered a convenient situation for erecting the buildings. The +materials being found on the spot, and the men aware of the approach +of winter, and straining every nerve to secure themselves against its +rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were raised and already +occupied. + +In the early part of winter, being, I may say, entirely alone,--for +there remained only one man and an interpreter with me,--I amused +myself by shooting partridges, which abounded in the neighbourhood +that season; but the cold became so excessive as the winter advanced, +that I was compelled to forego that amusement, and confine myself to +the four walls of my prison, with the few books I possessed as my only +companions. My despatches for the civilized world being completed, I +was altogether at a loss how to forward them, as none of the natives +could be induced, even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. At +length one was found who consented to accompany one of my men to Mr. +Erlandson's post, but no farther. + +My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had the mortification to +learn on their return that the packet remained at the outpost, +owing to an accident that befel one of the Indian guides, and which +incapacitated him for the trip. Our friends would thus remain in +ignorance of our fate for nearly two years. The report received +regarding the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as far as the +trade was concerned; but the privations suffered by those engaged in +it, it was painful to learn; their sole subsistence consisted of fish, +rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage it had sustained from +the heat of the sun, and a few rabbits and partridges. Who would not +be an Indian trader? + +Early in the month of March the rein-deer made their appearance again, +and every countenance brightened up at the thoughts of the approaching +pastime. I fell on a plan, however, that divested the sport of much +of its attractions, although calculated to ensure greater success. +A favourable position being selected, a certain extent of ground was +fenced in so as to form a "pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap +being left in it to admit the game from the river side. This done, I +caused branches to be placed on the ice above and below the deer pass, +which the animals observing, became alarmed, and running from side to +side of the open space between the lines of branches, at length made a +dash at the opposite side of the river, and entered the trap prepared +for them at a gallop, continuing at the top of their speed until +stopped by the upper part of the "pound," when they wheeled round, and +making for the entrance, were received with a volley of balls from +the huntsmen; a continual fire being kept up upon them in this manner +until they all dropped. + +The scene presented by the slaughter was anything but agreeable, yet +stern necessity compelled me to continue the butchery; and the success +that attended my scheme far exceeded my expectations. The first herd +that entered, in number about fifty, burst through the fence; but our +works were immediately strengthened, so as to defy their efforts in +future to escape. A herd of 300 was soon after entrapped, and in the +course of two hours all were killed. + +Having thus obtained an ample stock of provisions, the different +parties employed at the fishing and hunting stations were recalled, +and preparations were begun for our summer campaign, in which I +determined to take an active part. The favourable report of last +summer respecting the East or George's River, combined with reports +that had reached me since of another large river flowing a short +distance to the south of Esquimaux Bay, suggested the possibility of +carrying on our business on this line of communication. With the view, +therefore, of carrying this design into effect, I had a boat built +in the course of the winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew +on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of ice at an earlier +period; and sweeping down on the top of the current at railroad speed, +reached the sea in about three hours. + +It being still early in the day, and no ice to be seen, we pulled for +the opposite side of the bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The +weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, and had proceeded +about seven miles with every prospect of effecting our purpose, +when lo! the tide was observed to be making against us; and the ice +returning with it, apparently in a compact body, we were placed in +rather a critical situation. The sun was declining, while the coast +presented a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility of +landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River. + +Towards that point, therefore, the head of the boat was directed, and +the crew, seeing the imminence of the danger, rowed with all their +might; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we made good our landing +ere the ice closed in around us. A few minutes after not a speck of +water could be descried. + +Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, leaving only a narrow +strip of open water along the shore; into this channel we pushed our +boat, and for some time made but little progress, being continually +interrupted by pieces of ice, which the high tide detached from the +shore. Our channel, however, soon widened, and in a short time not +a particle of ice could be seen, disappearing as if by magic; for +in a few minutes after it began to move, no traces of it could be +discovered as far as the eye could reach to seaward. We reached East +or George's River, without further interruption, on the 3d of July, +where we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th. + +The post established here last autumn is situated in a still more +cheerless spot than Fort Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills, +whose sides are covered with the _debris_ of rock, which appears to +have been detached from the hills by the process of decay. The post +stands at the foot of one of those frightful hills, while another +rises immediately in front; the intervening valleys, or cavities, +present nothing to enliven the scene, save a few stunted pines, and +here and there a patch of snow. + +The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region of sterility and desolation, +at first appeared delighted with the idea of having whites among them: +finding, however, that our presence yielded them no advantage, they +soon became indifferent about us, and proceeded to the Moravian +settlement with the produce of their hunts, where they obtained their +little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed. + +My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted of ten able men; and +an Indian guide accompanied us in his canoe. As we ascended, our +difficulties increased at every step, the water being much lower than +last year. I found myself engaged in a more laborious work than I had +ever yet undertaken--towing the boat day after day against a current +flowing in a continuous rapid, so as to admit of not one moment's +relaxation, unless during the short interval allowed for rest to +such as could take it--no easy matter when myriads of sand-flies and +mosquitoes filled the air and tortured us incessantly. + +We continued to advance in this manner, hauling, pulling, carrying, +and even launching the boat for about fifteen days, when we reached +an expansion of the river, without any perceptible current, and +sufficiently deep to admit of the use of the oar. + +Our labour was now supposed to be at an end by those who had explored +the river; no further doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching +Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends and news from all +quarters would reward us for all our toils. Let not him who knows not +what it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and the great +world, year after year, think lightly of the reward which the solitary +trader, in his remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, however, +were soon dissipated. Having reached the upper extremity of the +still water, we encountered difficulties that defied every attempt to +surmount. + +The lake just referred to proved to be the source of the lower +stream; the rivulet that flowed into it from above being so shallow +as scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. It was therefore +impossible to proceed with the boat, a circumstance that placed me in +a rather perplexing position; for I had the outfit for the interior in +charge, without which the business, so lately established with every +prospect of success, would fail. + +There was, however, no time to be lost in vain regrets; the advanced +period of the season required instant decision, and our stock +of provisions was diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on +proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe belonging to our guide, +taking two of the men with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to +erect a temporary post; and in the mean time sent my guide to apprize +the Indians in the vicinity of the steps I had taken to supply their +wants next winter. + +These arrangements completed, I embarked in an eggshell of a canoe, so +small as not to admit of anything save the smallest possible supply +of provisions,--tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. Soon after leaving +our encampment, we came to a portage some ten miles in length, and +struck the river again, where, from the report of the men, I expected +no further difficulties would impede our progress. But the event did +not answer my expectations; from the continual drought of the season +the water proved so low that we had to drag along our canoe, wading in +the water, where a boat would have passed with ease last year. In this +manner we continued our toilsome voyage without relaxation for several +days, carrying our canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the water +from early dawn until late at night, when we threw ourselves down +on the ground to pass the night without shelter from the weather +or protection from the stings of our merciless persecutors the +mosquitoes, who pursued their avocation with unwearied assiduity, +so that our rest was small, and that little afforded us but scanty +refreshment. + +Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of the route, was +rendered still slower by our frequent deviations from our course; my +guides having paid but little attention to their instructions last +year. We at length reached the post on the 16th of August, half +starved, half naked, and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the +good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our spirits, if not our +"inexpressibles;" and although much annoyed that no Indians could +be induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I determined on making the +attempt with such assistance as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was +well acquainted with the upper part of the river. + +After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe sufficiently large to +contain several conveniences, to which I had been for some time a +stranger,--a tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us by +day; we fared, too, like princes, on the produce of "sea and land," +procured by the net and the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our +downward course without meeting any interruption, or experiencing any +difficulty in finding our way; when, one evening, the roar of a mighty +cataract burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was at hand. +We soon reached the spot, which presented to us one of the grandest +spectacles in the world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our +enterprise. + +About six miles above the fall the river suddenly contracts, from a +width of from four hundred to six hundred yards, to about one hundred +yards; then rushing along in a continuous foaming rapid, finally +contracts to a breadth of about fifty yards, ere it precipitates +itself over the rock which forms the fall; when, still roaring and +foaming, it continues its maddened course for about a distance of +thirty miles, pent up between walls of rock that rise sometimes to +the height of three hundred feet on either side. This stupendous fall +exceeds in height the Falls of Niagara, but bears no comparison to +that sublime object in any other respect, being nearly hidden from the +view by the abrupt angle which the rocks form immediately beneath it. +If not seen, however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary force with +which it tumbles into the abyss underneath, that we felt the solid +rock shake under our feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the +gulf. A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at a great distance +in clear weather, hangs over the spot. From the fall to the foot of +the rapid--a distance of thirty miles--the zigzag course of the river +presents such sharp angles, that you see nothing of it until within a +few yards of its banks. Might not this circumstance lead the geologist +to the conclusion that the fall had receded this distance? The mind +shrinks from the contemplation of a subject that carries it back to +a period of time so very remote; for if the rock,--syenite, always +possessed its present solidity and hardness, the action of the water +alone might require millions of years to produce such a result! + +After carrying our canoe and baggage for a whole day through bogs, and +swamps, and windfalls, in the hope of finding the river accessible, we +at length gave up the attempt; and with heavy hearts and weary limbs +retracing our steps, we reached the outpost, without accident, after +an absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible to remove either +the returns, or the small quantity of goods remaining on hand, I +determined on leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter here; +and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to assume the charge of the temporary +post, where I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the 1st of +September, and I was delighted at finding my men living in the midst +of abundance;--the surrounding country apparently abounding with +rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of the best quality. I remained +with the men two days to expedite the buildings which were yet +unfinished; and in the meantime a party of Indians arrived, whom we +persuaded to carry our despatches to Esquimaux Bay. + +After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erlandson with two men to +share his solitude, and reached the sea without experiencing any +adventure worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, I was induced, one +evening, by the flattering appearance of the weather, to attempt the +passage of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there was little +danger of being delayed afterwards by stress of weather. This step I +soon had cause to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth surface; +not a breath of wind was felt, and the stars shone out brightly. A few +clouds began to appear on the horizon; and the boat began to rise +and fall with the heaving of the sea. Understanding what these signs +portended, we immediately pulled for the shore; but had scarcely +altered our course when the stars disappeared, a tremendous noise +struck upon our ears from seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the +impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace of land could be +discovered; but we continued to ply our oars, while each succeeding +billow threatened immediate destruction. + +The horrors of our situation increased; the man on the out-look +called out that he saw breakers a-head in every direction, and escape +appeared to be next to impossible. My crew of Scottish Islanders, +however, continued their painful exertions without evincing the +apprehensions they must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was now at +hand. We approached so near to the breakers that it was impossible to +avoid them; and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next moment +would be their last. + +In such a situation the thoughts of even the most depraved naturally +carry them beyond the limits of time; and by these thoughts, I +believe, the soul of every one was absorbed; yet the men lost not +their presence of mind. Suddenly, the voice of the look-out was heard +amid the roar of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark breach +in the line of foam that stretched out before us, which he fancied to +be a channel between the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought us +to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we found it to answer the +man's conjecture; but, so narrow was the passage, that the oars on +both sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute afterwards we found +ourselves becalmed and in safety. The boat being moored, and the men +ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, as we best could, +supperless, and without having tasted food since early dawn. + +The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morning; but we found, to +our great satisfaction, that we had entered a kind of channel that +lay along the shore, where we were protected from the storm by the +innumerable rocky islets that stretched along the mainland. Regarding +the labyrinth of islands through which we had effected a passage +in the darkness, we were struck with wonder at our escape; and felt +convinced that the hand of Providence alone could have guided us +through such perils in safety. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF HUDSON'S STRAIT, ON + A RAFT--DESPATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR--DISTRESS OF THE + ESQUIMAUX--FORWARD PROVISIONS TO MR. E----. RETURN OF THE + PARTY--THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION. + + +We reached Fort Chimo on the 20th September. A greater number of +Esquimaux were assembled about the post than I had yet seen; and among +them I was astonished to find a family from the north side of the +Strait, and still more astonished when I learned the way they had +crossed--a raft formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along the +shore, afforded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise. + +On questioning them what was their object in risking their lives in +so extraordinary an adventure, they replied, that they wanted wood to +make canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait. + +"And what if you had been overtaken by a storm?" said I. + +"We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply. + +In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, a storm having come on +just as they landed on the first island. + +The fact of these people having crossed Hudson's Strait on so rude +and frail a conveyance, strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion +that America was originally peopled from Asia. The Asiatic side of +Behring's Strait affording timber sufficiently large for the purpose +of building boats or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in +supposing that, when once in possession of that wonderful and useful +invention--a boat, they might be induced, even by curiosity--that +powerful stimulus to adventure--to visit the nearest island, and from +thence proceed to the continent of America; and finding it, perhaps, +possessed of superior advantages to the shores they had left, settle +there. My voyageur was evidently induced as much by curiosity as by +the desire of procuring a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's +Strait, where the passage is as wide as between the island in +Behring's Strait and the two continents. + +At an early period of the winter I was gratified by the arrival of +despatches from the civilized world. The packet was found by the +Indians at Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and forwarded to me +by Mr. Erlandson's two men. By his letters I was grieved to learn that +starvation stared him in the face; the fishing, that promised so well +when I passed, having entirely failed, and no deer were to be found. +He wrote me, however, that he would maintain his post while a piece of +parchment remained to gnaw! + +The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of the Governor and +Committee for my "laudable exertions;" while his Excellency intimated, +in language not to be misunderstood, that my promotion depended on my +successful management of the affairs of Ungava, "which he regretted to +find were still in an unpromising state." + +What effect this announcement had on my feelings need not be +mentioned--after a painful servitude of eighteen years thus to +be compelled to make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere I +obtained the reward of my toil, while many others had reached the +goal in a much shorter time without experiencing either hardship or +privation,--the injustice I had suffered, or the deceit that had been +practised on _me_. As a balm to my wounded feelings, my correspondents +in the north informed me that seven clerks had been promoted since I +left Norway House. + +Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a preceding page passed the +winter in this quarter, not daring to return in consequence of an +hostile rencontre they had had with some of their own tribes on their +way hither. The quarrel, like most Indian quarrels, originated in an +attempt to carry off women: both parties had recourse to arms, and +a desperate struggle ensued, in which our visitors were completely +defeated, with the loss of several lives. + +They remained about the post for a short time, admiring its wonderful +novelties--wonderful to them--and then proceeded some distance up the +river to waylay the deer that had already crossed unobserved by them. +The poor creatures, unaware of this fact, remained on the ground until +every article that afforded any kind of sustenance was consumed; when +they started for the post, leaving the weaker of the party to follow +as they best could. They all arrived the same day except two widows, +who had lost their husbands in the fray. I sent off two young men with +a supply of provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having devoured +the food, returned without the women, although I had previously +supplied their own wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own men, +accompanied by an Esquimaux; but, as might have been expected, the +women were found lying dead on the ice near each other. + +Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly request any assistance +from me, the report he communicated as to the failure of provisions +was sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours to relieve his +wants. With this view I hired an Indian lad to act as guide to a party +whom I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. The guide +assured me they would perform the journey, going and coming, in a +month. The appointed period passed, and no accounts of them; and week +after week, until I at last despaired of ever seeing them in life. +At the end of about two months they made their appearance, but in +so deplorable a state of emaciation that we could scarcely recognise +them. + +The roads proved so bad that they were nearly a month on their way +going, and consequently they had consumed almost all the provisions +they had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty supply not +allowing him to afford them any assistance for their return, they +commenced their journey homeward with one meal a day, which they +continued until all was gone, when they fed on their dogs; and they +finally arrived at the house without having tasted any kind of food +for three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the greatest pity; +the interpreter, who came to tell me of their arrival, was in tears. +No time was lost in administering relief; but the greatest caution +was necessary in administering it, or the consequences might have been +fatal. + +I was mortified to find, on the approach of spring, that my stock of +goods did not admit of supplying the interior; and I was consequently +compelled to relinquish the advantages that had cost us so much to +acquire. Without goods we could not, of course, maintain our position +in that quarter. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY--GOVERNOR'S INSTRUCTIONS--MY REPORT + TO THE COMMITTEE--RECOMMEND THE ABANDONMENT OF UNGAVA + SETTLEMENT--SUCCESS OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED + BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON--RETURN BY SEA TO FORT + CHIMO--NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER--INHUMAN + AND IMPOLITIC MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR--CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT + THE POST. + + +Immediately on the opening of the navigation I started for Esquimaux +Bay, with two Indians, in a small canoe, and without any of the +usual conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered to the southern +department, followed in another canoe. + +Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the receipt of despatches +just come to hand by the ship. The Governor's letter apprized me +that a vessel would be sent round to Ungava every alternate year; and +strictly enjoined me to have no further communication with Esquimaux +Bay _overland_, "as much unnecessary expense was incurred by these +journeys." Thus were we consigned to our fate for a period of two +years with as little feeling as if we had been so many cattle, and +debarred from all communication with our friends, by word or letter, +merely to save a trifling expense! + +Could the Honourable Company be swayed by so paltry a consideration in +subjecting us to so grievous an inconvenience? Surely not; a body of +men so respectable could neither have authorized nor sanctioned such +sordid parsimony. The generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson +alone, and to him be the honour ascribed. + +Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the utter hopelessness of the +Ungava adventure, I transmitted a report to the Governor and Committee +on the subject; recommending the abandonment of the settlement +altogether, as the enormous expense of supplying us by sea precluded +the idea of any profit being ever realised; while it was quite evident +the Company's benevolent views toward the Esquimaux could not be +carried into effect. The extreme poverty and barrenness of their +country, and their pertinacious adherence to their seal-skin dresses, +which no argument of ours could induce them to exchange for the +less comfortable articles of European clothing, were insurmountable +obstacles. The Honourable Company, while they wished to supply the +wants of the Esquimaux, still urged the expediency of securing the +trade of the interior. + +A circumstance that came to my knowledge in the course of the winter +promised the attainment of that object. I learned from an old Indian, +that the fall and rapid I met with on my way to the sea the preceding +season, could be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. My +informant had never seen those falls himself, and could, from the +oral report he had heard, give but a very imperfect description of the +route. Still, I determined on making another attempt to explore the +whole river, knowing well, that if I succeeded in discovering the new +route, there could be no further difficulty in supplying the interior. +Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by letters from my friend Mr. +Dease, that the expedition in which he had been engaged was crowned +with success;--the long sought-after north-west passage being at +length laid open to the _knowledge_ of mankind, and a question, that +at one time excited the enterprise of the merchant and the curiosity +of the learned, settled beyond a doubt. + +While on this subject, I cannot help expressing my surprise at the +manner Mr. Dease's name is mentioned in the published narrative of +the expedition, where he is represented as being employed merely +as purveyor. It might have been said with equal propriety that Mr. +Simpson was employed merely as astronomer. The fact is, the services +of both gentlemen were equally necessary; and to the prudence, +judgment, and experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of +the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no less than to the +astronomical science of Mr. Simpson. + +Having finished my correspondence, I embarked for Fort Chimo, on board +a brig that had been recently built for the trade of this district +and that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded no adventure worthy of +notice; icebergs we saw in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us, +but having no desire to form a close acquaintance with them, we kept +at a respectful distance; and finally entered the Ungava River, on the +24th of August, at so early an hour of the day, that we expected to +reach the post ere night-fall. + +We were doomed to disappointment. As we ascended the river, the breeze +fell, and darkness set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Presently, +however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing could be seen a yard +off. In this dilemma our safest course would have been to anchor, +but unfortunately that part of the river was the most unfavourable +possible for our purpose, from the extraordinary strength of the +current, and the rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed quite +at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel struck, altered her course +a little, struck again, put about, and struck again and again. The +anchor was dropped as the only chance of escaping the dangers in which +we were involved. The anchor dragged a short time, and finally caught +apparently in a cleft of the rocks. + +Soon after the tide began to flow, and we fancied our dangers over; +but the crisis was not yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down +with the current of the river with such overwhelming velocity, that +we expected the vessel would be torn from her moorings. Two men were +placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, in spite of their utmost +exertions, she was dashed from side to side like a feather, while +the current pitched into her till the water entered the hawse-holes. +Pitching, and swinging, and dashed about in this fearful manner for +some time, the anchor was at length disengaged, and dragged along the +bottom with a grating noise, which, with the roaring of the rapid, and +the whistling of the wind through the rigging, formed a combination +of sounds that would have appalled the most resolute. The fog having +cleared away, we discovered a point projecting far into the river, +some two hundred yards below, towards which we were drifting +broadside, and rapidly nearing. The boats were got ready, to escape, +if possible, the impending catastrophe, when the vessel was suddenly +brought to with a tremendous jerk, and instantly swung round to the +tide. By this time, however, its strength was considerably abated, and +daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esquimaux who had come on board, +with a note to the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent us +with the utmost despatch. + +Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we weighed anchor, and +advanced to within three miles of the establishment, when a boat was +seen approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On coming along-side, +a rope was thrown to them, and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the +men had scrambled on board, when a sudden blast swelled our sails, and +propelled us through the water with such force, that the fore-part +of the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men floundering in the +water, and the other clinging to the rope. The latter was dragged on +board, severely bruised; but the former remained in the water for at +least two hours, and would have perished before our eyes, had he not +got hold of a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep himself +afloat. We soon anchored opposite the post, and every exertion being +made to expedite the departure of the vessel, we were in the course of +a few days left to vegetate in quiet. + +On examining the quantity of provisions I had received, I was not a +little alarmed to find it scarcely sufficient for the consumption of +one year, his Excellency's communication having acquainted me that +it was a supply for two years! Thus we were thrown on the precarious +resources of the country for life or for death; for if those resources +should fail us, we must either remain and starve on the spot, or, +abandoning the settlement, endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay and +run the risk of starving by the way. Economy so ill-timed argued +as little in favour of the Governor's judgment as of his humanity. +Admitting our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandonment +of the settlement, with all the goods and furs in it, would have +subjected the Company to a very serious loss. Every precaution, +however, was taken to provide against a contingency which involved +such serious consequences; the men were dispersed in every direction +to shift for themselves, some being supplied with guns and ammunition, +others with nets, a lake of considerable extent having been lately +discovered, which the natives reported to abound with fish. Early +in the month of December my fishermen came in with the mortifying +intelligence of the entire failure of the fishery; and soon after +a messenger arrived from the hunting party to beg a supply of +provisions, which my limited means, alas! compelled me to deny. Not +a deer had been seen, and the partridges had become so scarce of late +that they barely afforded the means of sustaining life. All I could +therefore do for my poor men was to supply them with more ammunition +and send them off again. + +While their lot was thus wretched, mine was not enviable; one solitary +meal a day was all I allowed myself and those who remained with me; +and I must do them the justice to say, that they submitted to +these privations without a murmur, being aware that it was only by +exercising the most rigid economy that our provisions could hold +out the allotted time; the arrival of the ship being an event too +uncertain to be calculated upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner, +we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, without expending much +of our imported provisions, until the arrival of the deer in the month +of March, when we fared plentifully if not sumptuously. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION--MY PROMOTION--WINTER AT + CHIMO--OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN--UNGAVA ABANDONED. + + +1841.--On the opening of the navigation I set out on another exploring +expedition. Without entering into particulars so devoid of interest, +I would merely observe that, with patience and perseverance, we +ultimately succeeded in making good our passage by the Hamilton, or +Grand River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect. + +On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the vessel from Quebec riding +at anchor--a joyful sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear +from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence of the events +that had occurred in the world for the last twelve months. The +Governor's communication acquainted me with my promotion, and +_sincerely_ congratulated me on the event. Whether I had reason or not +to doubt his sincerity, let the reader judge who knows the treatment I +had experienced at his hands. Fifteen years ago I was assured of being +in the "direct road to preferment,"--twenty years of toil and misery +have I served to obtain it. + +Considering myself, therefore, under no obligation to his Excellency, +I addressed a letter to the Directors, expressing my thanks for the +benefit they had conferred upon me, and requesting permission to visit +the land of my nativity next year. + +I was fortunate enough to find a couple of canoes at Esquimaux Bay, +sufficiently large to admit of conveying an outfit to the interior, +and equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman in charge of +the district, possessed the will and ability to promote my views. All +my arrangements at this place being completed, I set off on my return, +and was happy to find, on my arrival at the outpost, that the outfit +was rendered in safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on +the way. + +I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of October. The dreary winter +setting in immediately, we commenced the usual course of vegetative +existence; and I consider it as unnecessary as it would be +uninteresting to say anything further concerning it than that this +season passed without our being subjected to such grievous privation +as during the last. The greater part of the people being distributed +among the outposts, reduced our expenditure of provisions so much, +that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the score of starvation; and +the precautions I had taken the preceding winter enabled us not only +to indulge occasionally in the _luxuries_ of bread-and-butter, but +also to contemplate the possibility of the non-arrival of the ship +without much anxiety. + +1842.--On the opening of the navigation I again set out for Esquimaux +Bay, where I found letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome +intelligence that my request for permission to visit Britain had been +granted, and that the Directors, agreeably to my recommendation, had +determined on abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered round this +season to convey the people and property to Esquimaux Bay. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + + CLIMATE OF UNGAVA--AURORA BOREALIS--SOIL--VEGETABLE + PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--BIRDS--FISH--GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. + + +It need scarcely be observed that, in so high a latitude as that +of Ungava, the climate presents the extremes of heat and cold; the +moderate temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, the rigour of +winter being immediately succeeded by the intense heat of summer, and +_vice versa_. + +On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer was observed to rise from +10 deg. below zero to 76 deg. in the shade, the sky clear and the weather +calm; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. For ten days +previously the thermometer ranged from 15 deg. below zero to 32 deg. above, +and the weather was as boisterous as in the month of January, snowing +and blowing furiously all the time. The heat continued to increase, +till the thermometer frequently exhibited from 85 deg. to 100 deg. in the +shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, be owing in a considerable +degree to the reflection of the solar rays from the rocky surface of +the country, a great part of which is destitute of vegetation. When +the wind blows from the sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to +become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are frequently experienced +during summer, and are probably caused by the sea's being always +encumbered by ice. It is remarkable that the severest cold in this +quarter is invariably accompanied by stormy weather; whereas, in the +interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm. + +The winter may be said to commence in October; by the end of this +month the ground is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller +lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, however, and the +strength of the current, often keep Ungava River open till the month +of January. At this period I have neither seen, read, nor heard of +any locality under heaven that can offer a more cheerless abode to +civilized man than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by the ice, when +driven to and fro by the force of the tide, continually stuns the ear; +while the light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs in the air, +shrouding everything in the gloom of a dark twilight. If Pluto should +leave his own gloomy mansion _in tenebris tartari_, he might take up +his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange. + + "The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs + The effect of fire."--MILTON. + +When the river sets fast, the beauties of the winter scene are +disclosed--one continuous surface of glaring snow, with here and there +a clump of dwarf pine, of the bald summits of barren hills, from +which the violence of the winter storms sweep away even the tenacious +lichens. The winter storms are the most violent I ever experienced, +sweeping every thing before them; and often prove fatal to the Indians +when overtaken by them in places where no shelter can be found. The +year previous to my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to a +barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking their women along +with them. While engaged in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them +to make for the mainland with all possible speed. The women were soon +exhausted by their exertions, and, unable to proceed farther, were +at length covered by the snow, and left to their fate. As soon as the +fury of the storm abated, the men went in search of them; but in vain; +they were never found. + +During winter the sky is frequently illuminated by the Aurora Borealis +even in the day-time; and I have observed that when the south wind, +the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, the frost-bound +regions of Canada and Labrador,) blows for any length of time, the sky +becomes clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, however, does the +east wind blow, which, being charged with the vapours of the Atlantic, +induces mild weather even in midwinter, than they again dart forth +their coruscations--more brightly at first, afterwards more faintly, +till, if the wind continue, they again disappear. + +These phenomena seem to warrant the conclusion that the aurora is +produced by the evolving of the electric fluid, through the collision +of bodies of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are observable in +New Caledonia; the east wind, passing over the glaciers of the Rocky +Mountains, cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to cause frost +every month in summer; the west wind, on the contrary, causes heat; +and there, as in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by what may +be termed the Mountain Aurora (_Aurora Montium_?) + +During my residence of five years at Ungava, the thermometer fell +twice to 53 deg. below zero; and frequently ranged from 38 deg. to 48 deg. for +several days together; the extreme heat rose to 100 deg. at noon in the +shade. + +The soil of Ungava consists principally of decayed lichens, which form +a substance resembling the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In this +soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant which I have not seen in +any other part of the continent, although it may elsewhere be found in +similar situations. In the low grounds along the banks of rivers, the +soil is generally deep and fertile enough to produce timber of a large +size; in the valleys are found clumps of wood, which become more and +more stunted as they creep up the sides of the sterile hills, till at +length they degenerate into lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the +sea-coast consist entirely of larch; which also predominates in the +interior, intermixed with white pine, and a few poplars and birches. +The hardy willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle of soil +to take root in; and the plant denominated Labrador tea, flourishes +luxuriantly in its native soil. In favourable seasons the country +is covered with every variety of berries--blueberry, cranberry, +gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry, ground raspberry +(_rubus arcticus_), and the billberry (_rubus chamaemorus_), a +delicious fruit produced in the swamps, and bearing some resemblance +to the strawberry in shape, but different in flavour and colour, being +yellow when ripe. Liquorice root is found on the banks of South River. + +To enumerate the varieties of animals is an easy task; the extremely +barren nature of the country, and the severity of the climate, prove +so unfavourable to the animal kingdom, that only a few of the more +hardy species are to be found here: viz.-- + +Black, brown, grisly, and polar bears. + +Black, silver, cross, blue, red, and white foxes. + +Wolves, wolverines, martens, and the beaver (but extremely rare). + +Otters, minks, musk-rats, ermine. + +Arctic hares, rabbits, rein-deer; and the lemming, in some parts of +the interior. + +When we consider the great extent of country that intervenes between +Ungava and the plains of the "far west," it seems quite inexplicable +that the grisly bear should be found in so insulated a situation, +and none in the intermediate country: the fact of their being here, +however, does not admit of a doubt, for I have traded and sent to +England several of their skins. The information I have received from +the natives induces me to think that the varieties of colour in bears +mark them as distinct species, and not the produce of the same litter, +as some writers affirm. Why, otherwise, do we not find the different +varieties in Canada, where the grisly bear has never been seen? The +sagacious animals seem to be well aware of their generic affinity, +since they are often seen together, sharing the same carcass, and +apparently on terms of the most intimate fellowship. + +It is a singular circumstance, that she-bears with young are seldom +or never killed; at least it is so extraordinary a circumstance, that +when it does happen, it is spoken of for years afterwards. She must, +therefore, retire to her den immediately after impregnation; and +cannot go above three months with young; as instances have occurred +of their being found suckling their young in the month of January, at +which period they are not larger than the common house-rat, presenting +the appearance of animals in embryo, yet perfect in all their parts. + +Bruin prepares his hybernal dormitory with great care, lining it with +hay, and stopping up the entrance with the same material; he enters it +in October, and comes out in the month of April. He passes the winter +alone, in a state of morbid drowsiness, from which he is roused +with difficulty; and neither eats nor drinks, but seems to derive +nourishment from sucking his paws. He makes his exit in spring +apparently in as good condition as when he entered; but a few days' +exposure to the air reduces him to skin and bone. + +The natives pay particular attention to the appearance presented by +the unoccupied dens they may discover in summer: if bruin has removed +his litter of the preceding winter, he intends to reoccupy the same +quarters; if he allows it to remain, he never returns; and the hunter +takes his measures accordingly. + +The black bear shuns the presence of man, and is by no means +a dangerous animal; the grisly bear, on the contrary, commands +considerable respect from the "lord of the creation," whom he attacks +without hesitation. By the natives, the paw of a grisly bear is +considered as honourable a trophy as the scalp of a human enemy. + +The reports I have had, both from natives and white trappers, confirm +the opinion that certain varieties of the fox belong to the same +species,--such as the black, silver, cross, and red; all of which have +been found in the same nest, but never any of the white or blue. The +former, too, are distinguished for their cunning and sagacity; while +the latter are very stupid, and fall an easy prey to the trapper; a +circumstance of itself sufficient to prove a difference of species. + +There are two varieties of the rein-deer,--the migratory, and the +stationary or wood-deer: the latter is a much larger animal, but not +abundant; the former are extremely numerous, migrating in herds at +particular seasons, and observing certain laws on their march, from +which they seldom deviate. The does make their appearance at Ungava +River generally in the beginning of March, coming from the west, and +directing their course over the barren grounds near the coast, until +they reach George's River, where they halt to bring forth their young, +in the month of June. Meantime the bucks, being divided into separate +herds, pursue a direct course through the interior, for the same +river, and remain scattered about on the upper parts of it until the +month of September, when they assemble, and proceed slowly towards +the coast. By this time the does move onward towards the interior, the +fawns having now sufficient strength to accompany them, and follow the +banks of George's River until they meet the bucks, when the rutting +season commences, in the month of October; the whole then proceed +together, through the interior, to the place whence they came. In the +same manner, I have been informed, the deer perform their migratory +circuits everywhere; observing the same order on their march, +following nearly the same route unless prevented by accidental +circumstances, and observing much the same periods of arrival and +departure. + +The colour of the rein-deer is uniformly the same, presenting no +variety of "spotted black and red." In summer it is a very dark grey, +approaching to black, and light grey in winter. The colour of the doe +is of a darker shade than that of the buck, whose breast is perfectly +white in winter. Individuals are seen of a white colour at all seasons +of the year. The bucks shed their antlers in the month of December; +the does in the month of January. A few bucks are sometimes to be +met with who roam about apart from the larger herds, and are in prime +condition both in summer and winter. These _solitaires_ are said to be +unsuccessful candidates for the favours of the does, who, having +been worsted by their more powerful rivals in _contentione amoris_, +withdraw from the community, and assuming the cowl, ever after eschew +female society; an opinion which their good condition at all seasons +seems to corroborate. + +The rein-deer is subject to greater annoyance from flies than any +other animal in the creation; neither change of season nor situation +exempts them from this torture. Their great persecutor is a species +of gad-fly, (_oestries tarandi_,) that hovers around them in clouds +during summer, and makes them the instruments of their own torture +throughout the year. The fly, after piercing the skin of the deer, +deposits its eggs between the outer and inner skin, where they are +hatched by the heat of the animal's body. In the month of March, the +chrysalides burst through the skin, and drop on the ground, when they +may be seen crawling in immense numbers along the deer paths as they +pass from west to east. + +The only birds observed in winter are grouse, ptarmigan, a small +species of wood-pecker, butcher-bird, and the diminutive tomtit. We +are visited in summer by swans, geese, ducks, eagles, hawks, ravens, +owls, robins, and swallows. The eider-duck, so much prized for its +down, is found in considerable numbers. The geese are of a most +inferior kind, owing, I suppose, to the poor feeding the country +affords; when they arrive in summer the ice is often still solid, when +they betake themselves to the hills, and feed on berries. + +The lakes produce only white fish, trout and carp. We took now and +then a few salmon in the river, and there is no doubt that this fish +abounds on the coast. + +In the sea are found the black whale, porpoise, sea-horse, seal, and +the narwal or sea unicorn; the horn of the latter, solid ivory, is a +beautiful object. The largest I procured measured six feet and a half +in length, four inches in diameter at the root, and a quarter of an +inch at the point. It is of a spiral form, and projects from near the +extremity of the snout; it presents a most singular appearance when +seen moving along above the surface of the water, while the animal is +concealed beneath. + +The geological features of the country present so little variety, that +one versed in that interesting science would experience but little +difficulty in describing them; a mere outline, however, is all I can +venture to present. + +Along the sea-coast the formation is granitic syenite; then, +proceeding about forty miles in the direction of South River, syenite +occurs, which, about sixty miles higher up, runs into green stone: +very fine slate succeeds. At the height of land dividing the waters +that flow in different directions, into Esquimaux and Ungava Bays, the +formation becomes syenitic schist, and continues so to within a short +distance of the great fall on Hamilton River; when syenite succeeds; +then gneiss; and along the shores of Esquimaux Bay syenitic gneiss, +and pure quartz: lumps of black and red hornblend are met with +everywhere. The country is covered with boulders rounded off by the +action of water, most of which are different from the rocks _in situ_, +and must have been transported from a great distance, some being of +granite--a rock not to be found in this quarter. + +The rugged and precipitous banks of George's River are occasionally +surmounted by hills; at the base of all these elevations, deep +horizontal indentures appear running in parallel lines opposite each +other on either side of the river,--a circumstance which indicates the +action of tides and waves at a time when the other parts of the land +were submerged, and the tops of those hills formed islands. Along +certain parts of the coast of Labrador rows of boulders are perceived +lying in horizontal lines; the lowest about two hundred yards distant +from high-water mark, while the farthest extend to near the crest of +the adjacent hills. Several deep cavities and embankments of sand are +observed in the interior, bearing unequivocal marks of having been, at +one time, subject to the influence of the sea. + +I shall conclude these few remarks by observing that, whatever +conclusions the geologist may arrive at as to the remote or recent +elevation of this country, the tops of the higher hills appear to have +been formerly islands in the sea; and I doubt not but the same may +be said of the higher lands on every part of the Arctic regions. +Admitting this to have been the case, it contributes to confirm the +theory of that distinguished philosopher, Sir Charles Lyell, as to +the cause of the changes that have taken place in the climate of the +northern regions. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + THE NASCOPIES--THEIR RELIGION--MANNERS AND + CUSTOMS--CLOTHING--MARRIAGE--COMMUNITY OF GOODS. + + +The Indians inhabiting the interior of Ungava, or, it may be said with +equal propriety, the interior of Labrador, are a tribe of the Cree +nation designated Nascopies, and numbering about one hundred men able +to bear arms. Their language, a dialect of the Cree or Cristeneau, +exhibits a considerable mixture of Sauteux words, with a few peculiar +to themselves. The Nascopies have the same religious belief as their +kindred tribes in every other part of the continent. They believe in +the existence of a Supreme Being, the Ruler of the universe, and the +Author of all good. They believe, also, in the existence of a bad +spirit, the author of all evil. Each is believed to be served by a +number of subordinate spirits. Sacrifices are offered to each; to the +good, by way of supplication and gratitude; to the evil, by way of +conciliation and deprecation. Their local genii are also supposed to +be possessed of the power of doing good, or inflicting evil, and are +likewise propitiated by sacrifices; the "men of medicine" are viewed +in nearly the same light. A few of them who visit the king's posts, +have been baptized, and taught to mutter something they call prayers, +and on this account are esteemed good Christians by their tutors; +while every action of their lives proves them to be as much Pagans as +ever; at least, to those who look for some _fruit_ of faith, and who +may be ignorant of the miraculous efficacy of holy water, and can form +no idea of its operation on the soul, they appear so. + +Of all the Indians I have seen, the Nascopies seem most averse to +locomotion; many of them grow up to man's estate without once visiting +a trading post. Previously to the establishment of this post they were +wont to assemble at a certain rendezvous in the interior, and deliver +their furs to some elderly man of the party, who proceeded with +them to the King's posts, or Esquimaux Bay, and traded them for such +articles as they required. So little intercourse have this people had +with the whites, that they may be still considered as unsophisticated +"children of nature," and possessed, of course, of all the virtues +ascribed to such; yet I must say, that my acquaintance with them +disclosed nothing that impressed me with a higher opinion of them than +of my own race, corrupted as they are by the arts of civilized life. + +The Nascopie freely indulges all the grosser passions of his nature; +he has no term in his language to express the sensation of shame; the +feeling and the word are alike unknown. Many circumstances might be +adduced in proof of this, but I have no desire to disgust the reader. +Previously to our arrival here, there was not such an article of +domestic utility known among them as a spoon; the unclean hand +performed every office. They take their meals sitting in a circle +round a kettle, and commence operations by skimming off the fat with +their hands, and lapping it up like dogs; then every one helps himself +to the solids, cutting, gnawing, and tearing until the whole is +devoured, or until repletion precludes further exertions, when, like +the gorged beast of prey, they lie down to sleep. + +The Nascopies practise polygamy more from motives of convenience than +any other--the more wives, the more slaves. The poor creatures, in +fact, are in a state of relentless slavery; every species of drudgery +devolves upon them. When they remove from camp to camp in winter, the +women set out first, dragging sledges loaded with their effects, and +such of the children as are incapable of walking; meantime the men +remain in the abandoned encampment smoking their pipes, until they +suppose the women are sufficiently far advanced on the route to reach +the new encampment ere they overtake them. + +Arrived at the spot, the women clear the ground of snow, erect the +tents, and collect fuel; and when their arrangements are completed, +their lords step in to enjoy themselves. The sole occupation of the +men is hunting, and, in winter, fishing. They do not even carry home +the game; that duty also falls to the lot of the female, unless when +the family has been starving for some time, when the men condescend to +carry home enough for immediate use. + +The horrid practice still obtains among the Nascopies of destroying +their parents and relatives, when old age incapacitates them for +further exertion. I must, however, do them the justice to say, that +the parent himself expresses a wish to depart, otherwise the unnatural +deed would probably never be committed; for they in general treat +their old people with much care and tenderness. The son or nearest +relative performs the office of executioner,--the self-devoted victim +being disposed of by strangulation.[1] When any one dies in winter, +the body is placed on a scaffold till summer, when it is interred. + +[Footnote 1: "Quidam parentes et propinquos, priusquam annis et macie +conficiantur, velut hostias caedunt, _eorumque visceribus epulantur_." +The Nascopies do not feast on the "viscera" of their victims, nor do +I believe the inhabitants of India, or of any other country under +heaven, ever did. Yet the coincidence is singular, in other respects, +at such a distance of time and place.] + +The Nascopies depend principally on the rein-deer for subsistence,--a +dependence which the erratic habits of these animals render extremely +precarious. Should they happen to miss the deer on their passage +through the country in autumn, they experience the most grievous +inconvenience, and often privations, the succeeding winter; as +they must then draw their living from the lakes, with unremitting +toil,--boring the ice, which is sometimes from eight to nine feet +thick, for the purpose of setting their hooks, and perhaps not taking +a single fish after a day's hard work. Nevertheless, they must still +continue their exertions till they succeed, shifting their hooks from +one part of the lake to another, until every spot is searched. They +understand the art of setting nets under the ice perfectly. Towards +the latter end of December, however, the fish gain the deep water, +and remain still to the latter end of March. Not a fish enters the net +during this period. + +Partridges are very numerous in certain localities, but cannot be +trusted to as a means of living, as every part of the country affords +them food, and when much annoyed at one place they move off to +another. + +It will be seen from the foregoing remarks, that the Nascopies, like +all other erratic tribes, are subject to the vicissitudes their mode +of life necessarily involves; at one time wallowing in abundance, at +another dying of want. Fortunately for themselves, they are at present +the most independent of the whites of any other Indians on this +continent, the Esquimaux excepted. The few fur-bearing animals their +barren country affords are so highly prized, that the least exertion +enables them to procure their very limited wants; and the skin of +the rein-deer affords them the most comfortable clothing they could +possess. They have a particular art, too, of dressing this skin, so as +to render it as soft and pliable as chamois, in which state it becomes +a valuable article of trade. + +As trading posts, however, are now established on their lands, I doubt +not but artificial wants will, in time, be created, that may become +as indispensable to their comfort as their present real wants. All the +arts of the trader are exercised to produce such a result, and those +arts never fail of ultimate success. Even during the last two years of +my management, the demand for certain articles of European manufacture +had greatly increased. + +The winter dress of the Nascopie consists of a jacket of deer-skin, +close all round, worn with the hair next the skin, and an over-coat of +the same material reaching to his knees, the hair outside. This coat +overlaps in front, and is secured by a belt, from which depends his +knife and smoking-bag. A pair of leather breeches, and leggings, +or stockings of cloth, protect his legs, though but imperfectly, +from the cold; his hands, however, are well defended by a pair of +gauntlets that reach his elbows; and on his head he wears a cap +richly ornamented with bear's and eagle's claws. His long thick hair, +however, renders the head-gear an article of superfluity,--but it +is the fashion. The dress of the women consists of a square piece of +dressed deer-skin, girt round them by a cloth or worsted belt, and +fastened over their shoulders by leather straps; a jacket of leather, +and cloth leggings. I have also observed some of them wearing a +garment in imitation of a gown. The leather dresses, both of men and +women, are generally painted; and often display more taste than one +would be disposed to give them credit for. + +The travelling equipage of the Nascopies consists of a small leather +tent, a deer-skin robe with the hair on, a leather bag with some down +in it, and a kettle. When he lies down he divests himself of his upper +garment, which he spreads under him; then, thrusting his limbs into +the down bag, and rolling himself up in his robe, he draws his knees +up close to his chin; and thus defended, the severest cold does not +affect him. + +Considering the manner in which their women are treated, it can +scarcely be supposed that their courtships are much influenced by +sentiments of love; in fact, the tender passion seems unknown to the +savage breast. When a young man attains a certain age, and considers +himself able to provide for a wife--if the term may be so debased--he +acquaints his parents with his wish, and gives himself no further +concern about the matter, until they have concluded the matrimonial +negotiations with the parents of _their_, not _his_ intended, whose +sentiments are never consulted on the occasion. The youth then +proceeds to his father-in-law's tent, and remains there for a +twelvemonth; at the end of this period he may remain longer or depart, +and he is considered ever after as an independent member of the +community, subject to no control. Marriages are allowed between near +relatives; cousins are considered as brothers and sisters, and are +addressed by the same terms. It is not considered improper to marry +two sisters, either in succession or both at the same time. + +The Nascopies have certain customs in hunting peculiar to themselves. +If a wounded animal escape, even a short distance, ere he drops, he +becomes the property of the person who first reaches him, and not of +the person who shot him; or if the animal be mortally wounded and do +not fall immediately, and another Indian fire and bring him down, the +last shot gains the prize. + +In their intercourse with us the Nascopies evince a very different +disposition from the other branches of the Cree family, being selfish +and inhospitable in the extreme; exacting rigid payment for the +smallest portion of food. Yet I do not know that we have any right to +blame a practice in them, which they have undoubtedly learned from +us. What do they obtain from us without payment? Nothing:--not a shot +of powder,--not a ball,--not a flint. But whatever may be said of +their conduct towards the whites, no people can exercise the laws +of hospitality with greater generosity, or show less selfishness, +towards each other, than the Nascopies. The only part of an animal the +huntsman retains for himself is the head; every other part is given up +for the common benefit. Fish, flesh, and fowl are distributed in the +same liberal and impartial manner; and he who contributes most seems +as contented with his share, however small it may be, as if he had had +no share in procuring it. In fact, a community of goods seems almost +established among them; the few articles they purchase from us shift +from hand to hand, and seldom remain more than two or three days in +the hands of the original purchaser. + +The Nascopies, surrounded by kindred tribes, are strangers to the +calamities of war, and are consequently a peaceful, harmless people; +yet they cherish the unprovoked enmity of their race towards the poor +Esquimaux, whom they never fail to attack, when an opportunity offers +of doing so with impunity. Our presence, however, has had the effect +of establishing a more friendly intercourse between them; and to the +fact that many of the Esquimaux have of late acquired fire-arms, and +are not to be attacked without some risk, may be ascribed, in no small +degree, the present forbearance of their enemies. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + THE ESQUIMAUX--PROBABLE ORIGIN--IDENTITY OF LANGUAGE + FROM LABRADOR TO BEHRING'S STRAITS--THEIR + AMOURS--MARRIAGES--RELIGION--TREATMENT + OF PARENTS--ANECDOTE--MODE OF PRESERVING + MEAT--AMUSEMENTS--DRESS--THE IGLOE, OR SNOW-HOUSE--THEIR + CUISINE--DOGS--THE SLEDGE--CAIAK, OR CANOE--OUIMIAK, OR + BOAT--IMPLEMENTS--STATURE. + + +The Esquimaux are so totally different in physiognomy and person, in +language, manners, and customs, from all the other natives of America, +that there can be no doubt that they belong to a different branch of +the human race. The conformation of their features, their stature, +form, and complexion, approximate so closely to those of the northern +inhabitants of Europe, as to indicate, with some degree of certainty, +their identity of origin. In the accounts I have read of the maritime +Laplanders, I find many characteristics common to both tribes: the +Laplander is of a swarthy complexion,--so is the Esquimaux; the +Laplander is distinguished by high cheek-bones, hollow cheeks, pointed +chin, and large mouth,--so is the Esquimaux; the Laplander wears a +thick beard,--so does the Esquimaux; the Laplander's hair is long and +black,--so is that of the Esquimaux; the Laplanders are, for the most +part, short of stature,--so are the Esquimaux; and the dress, food, +and lodging of both peoples are nearly the same. The last coincidence +may possibly arise from similarity of location and climate; and, taken +by itself, would afford no certain proof of identity of origin; but +taken in connexion with the aforementioned characteristics, I think +the conclusion is irresistible that the Laplanders and Esquimaux are +of the same race. + +That the Esquimaux and the natives of Greenland are also of a kindred +race, is a fact ascertained beyond a doubt, from the reports of the +Moravian Missionaries, who have settlements among both. + +The way in which they must have passed from the one continent to the +other, must now be left to conjecture. There is nothing improbable +in the supposition that some of them might have been drifted out to +sea by stress of weather, and wafted to the shores of Greenland; +whence some might, in course of time, remove to the opposite coast +of America. From the southern extremity of Labrador to Behring's +Straits, the Esquimaux language is the same, differing only in the +pronunciation of a few words. We had a native of Hudson's Bay with us, +who had accompanied Captain Franklin to the McKenzie and Coppermine +Rivers, and who assured us that he understood the Esquimaux of that +quarter, and those of Ungava, although some thousands of miles apart, +as well as his own tribe. + +In manners, customs, and dress, there is a like similarity. The +Esquimaux have ever remained a distinct people; the other natives of +America seeming to consider them more as brutes than human beings, and +never approaching them unless for the purpose of knocking them on the +head. Every one's hand is against them. I have seen Esquimaux scalps, +even among the timid _tetes des boules_ of Temiscamingue; yet no +people seem more disposed to live at peace with their neighbours, if +only they were allowed. Circumstanced as they are, however, they are +likely to suffer hostile aggression for a long time. Even a coward, +with a musket in his hand, is generally an overmatch for a brave man +with only a bow or a sling; but once possessed of fire-arms, they will +teach their enemies to respect them, for they will undoubtedly have +the advantage of superior courage and resolution. + +The Esquimaux is not easily excited to anger; but his wrath once +roused, he becomes furious: he foams like a wild boar, rolls his eyes, +gnashes his teeth, and rushes on his antagonist with the fury of a +beast of prey. In the winter of 1840, a quarrel arose between two +individuals about the sex, which led to a fight; the struggle was +continued for a time with tooth and nail; when one of the parties at +length got hold of his knife, and stabbed his adversary in the belly. +The bowels protruded, yet the wounded man never desisted, until loss +of blood and repeated stabs compelled him to yield the contest and +his life. Gallantry seems to be the main cause of quarrels among them. +Strange! that this passion should exercise such an influence in a +climate, and, as one would be led to suppose, on constitutions so +cold; yet nothing is more certain than that the enamoured Esquimaux +will risk life and limb in the pursuit of his object. + +With unmarried women there is no risk, as they are entirely free from +control; not so with the married, who are under strict surveillance; +but the husband's consent asked and obtained--which not seldom +happens--saves the gallant's head, and the lady's reputation. + +Their courtships are conducted in much the same manner as among the +inland Indians, the choice of partners being entirely left to the +parents. Some are affianced in childhood, and become man and wife +in early youth: I have seen a boy of fourteen living with his wife +who was two years younger. There are no marriage festivals, and no +ceremonies of any kind are observed at their nuptials. Polygamy is +allowed, _ad libitum_; and the husband exercises his authority as +husband, judge, or executioner; no one having any right to interfere. +Should, however, the woman consider herself ill-treated, she flees to +her parents, with whom she remains till an explanation takes place. +If it lead to a reconciliation, the parties are reunited; if not, the +woman may form a new connexion whenever she pleases. + +I know not whether the Esquimaux can be said to have any idea of +religion, as the term is generally understood. The earth, say they, +was in the beginning covered with water, which having subsided, man +appeared--a spontaneous creation. Aglooktook is the name of the man +who first created fish and animals: chopping a tree which overhung +the sea, the chips that fell into that element became fish; those +that fell on the land, animals. Their paradise is beneath the great +deep; those who have lived a good life, proceed to a part of the sea +abounding with whales and seals, where, free from care and toil, they +fare sumptuously on raw flesh and blubber, _in secula_ _seculorum_. +The wicked, on the contrary, are condemned to take up their abode in a +"sea of troubles," where none of the delicacies enjoyed by the blessed +are to be found; and even the commonest necessaries are procured with +endless toil, and pain, and disappointment. Although the "tomakhs," +or dead men, become the inhabitants of the sea, they indulge in the +pleasures of the chase on their old element, whenever they please; and +are often heard calling to each other while in pursuit of the deer. + +The Esquimaux have their "men of medicine," in whose preternatural +powers they place the most implicit confidence; by working on the +superstitious fears of the people, these impostors obtain much +authority. They are allowed to take the lead in every affair of +importance; and, in short, all their movements are, in a great +measure, regulated by these harlequins, who appear to be the only +chiefs among them. + +They dispose of their dead by placing them on the rocks, and covering +them over with ice or stones; these tombs prove but feeble barriers +against the wolves and other beasts of prey, who soon carry off the +bodies. The property belonging to the deceased is placed by the side +of his grave;--his caiak, or skin canoe, his bows, arrows, and spears. +Thus equipped, the _emigrant_ spirit cannot find itself at a loss on +arriving at a better country! + +It is said by some that the Esquimaux abandon their aged parents: +from inquiry, as well as observation, I am led to believe there is +no foundation for the charge. It is not reasonable to expect that +the more refined feelings of humanity should be found in the breast +of a savage, or that he should honour his father and mother in the +same degree as he whose principles are moulded by the precepts +of Christianity; yet I must do them the justice to say, that they +appeared to me to treat their parents with as much kindness, at least, +as any other savage nation I have met with. They do not deny, however, +that old people no longer able to provide for themselves, and without +any relative to care for them, are sometimes left to perish. + +No people suffer more from hunger than the Esquimaux who inhabit +the shores of Ungava Bay; seals being extremely scarce in the winter +season, and no fish to be found; so that the poor creatures are +often reduced to the most revolting expedients to preserve life. An +Esquimaux, who had been about the post for two years, proceeded, in +the winter of 1839, to join some of his relatives along the coast. +When he returned in the ensuing spring, I observed that his mother +and one of his children were missing. On inquiring what had become of +them, he replied, that they had been starved to death, and that he and +the rest of his family would have shared their fate, had it not been +for the sustenance the bodies afforded. + +The Esquimaux always pass the winter near the element that yields them +their principal subsistence; and as they are unacquainted with the +use of snow-shoes, they cannot follow the deer any distance from the +coast. As soon as the rivers are free from ice in summer, they proceed +inland and find abundance of food. Their manner of preserving their +meat is quite characteristic. When an animal is killed the bowels +are extracted, then the fore and hind quarters are cut off, and being +placed inside the carcass, are secured by skewers of wood run through +the flesh. The whole is then deposited under the nearest cleft +of rock, and stones are built round so as to secure it from the +depredations of wild animals until the hunters return to the coast; +when the meat is in high flavour, and considered fit for the palate of +an Esquimaux epicure. + +The Esquimaux do not share their provisions as the Nascopies do, +although they relieve each other's wants when their means can afford +it: each individual engaged in the chase retains his own game, his +claim being ascertained by distinctive marks on the arrows. When a +whale is killed a rigid fast is observed for twenty-four hours, not in +gratitude to Providence, but in honour of the whale, which is highly +displeased when this is neglected, studiously avoiding the harpoon +afterwards, and even visiting the offender with sickness and other +misfortunes. + +Should the summer and fall hunt prove successful, the Esquimaux is one +of the happiest animals in the creation. He passes his dreary winter +without one careful or anxious thought; he eats his fill and lies +down to sleep, and then rises to eat again. In this manner they pass +the greater part of their time; night and day are the same, eating +and sleeping their chief enjoyments. When, however, they do rouse +their dormant faculties to exertion, they seem to engage with great +good-will in the few amusements they have, the principal of which +is playing ball, men and women joining in the game. Two parties are +opposed, the one driving the ball with sticks towards the goal, +the other driving it in the opposite direction; in short, a game of +shinty. They have dancing too,--ye gods! such dancing! Two rows of men +and women, sometimes only of one sex, stand opposite to each other, +exhibiting no other motion in their dancing than raising their +shoulders with a peculiar jerk, bending their knees so as to give +their whole bodies, from the knee upwards, the same motion, and +grinning horribly at each other, while not a foot stirs. + +As to the music to which this _dance_ is performed, I know not well +how to describe it. By inflating and depressing the lungs so as +to create a convulsive heaving of the breast, a sound is produced, +somewhat similar to the groans of a person suffering from suffocation; +and it is to this sound they grin, and jerk their shoulders. The whole +performance is quite in keeping; the music worthy of the dancing, the +dancing worthy of the music. They have boxing too, but do not practise +the art after the fashion of the Cribs and Coopers; they disdain to +parry off the blow; each strikes in turn with clenched fist; the +blow is given behind the ear, and, as soon as one of the parties +acknowledges himself defeated, the combat ceases. They are also adepts +at wrestling; I have witnessed frequent contests between them and the +inland Indians, when the latter were invariably floored. + +No one enjoys a joke better than an Esquimaux, and when his risibility +is excited he laughs with right good will, evincing in this, as in +every other respect, the difference of disposition between them and +the Indians, whose rigid features seldom betray their feelings. Much +the same diversity of character and disposition is to be observed +among the Esquimaux as among other barbarous tribes. Some instances +of disinterested kindness and generosity fell under my notice while +residing among them, that would have done honour to civilized man. + +An Esquimaux who had attached himself to the establishment from the +time of our first arrival at Ungava, kept a poor widow and her three +orphans with him for several years, and seemed to make no difference +between them and the members of his own family. It must be +acknowledged, however, that the unhappy widows seldom fall into so +good hands; their fate is the most wretched that can be imagined, +unless they have children that can provide for them. In years of +scarcity they are rejected from the community, and hover about the +encampments like starving wolves, picking up whatever chance may +throw in their way, until hunger and cold terminate their wretched +existence. + +Whatever may be said of the awkwardness of the Esquimaux dress, it +must be allowed to be the best adapted to the climate that could be +used: a pair of boots so skilfully sewed as to exclude the water, and +lined with down, or the fine hair of the rein-deer, protects the feet +from wet and cold; two pairs of trousers, the inner having the hair +next the skin; and two coats or tunics of deer or seal skin, the outer +having a large hood that is drawn over the head in stormy weather, +and a pair of large mits, complete the dress. The women also "wear +the breeks," their dress being similar to that of the men in every +respect, with this difference, that the female has a long flap +attached to the hind part of her coat, and falling down to her +heels; a most extraordinary ornament, giving her the appearance of +an enormous tadpole. This tail, however, has its use; when she has +occasion to sit down on the cold rocks she folds it up and makes a +seat of it. + +In the winter season the Esquimaux live in huts built of snow; and +we may imagine what must have been the necessity and distress that +could first have suggested to a human being the idea of using such +a material as a means of protecting himself from cold. Be that as it +may, the snow _igloe_ affords not only security from the inclemency +of the weather, but more comfort than either stone or wooden building +without fire. The operation requires considerable tact and experience, +and is always performed by the men, two being required for it, one +outside and the other inside. + +Blocks of snow are first cut out with some sharp instrument from the +spot that is intended to form the floor of the dwelling, and raised +on edge, inclining a little inward around the cavity. These blocks +are generally about two feet in length, two feet in breadth, and +eight inches thick, and are joined close together. In this manner the +edifice is erected, contracting at each successive tier, until there +only remains a small aperture at the top, which is filled by a slab of +clear ice, that serves both as a keystone to the arch, and a window to +light the dwelling. An embankment of snow is raised around the wall, +and covered with skins, which answers the double purpose of beds +and seats. The inside of the hut presents the figure of an arch or +dome; the usual dimensions are ten or twelve feet in diameter, and +about eight feet in height at the centre. Sometimes two or three +families congregate under the same roof, having separate apartments +communicating with the main building, that are used as bedrooms. The +entrance to the igloe is effected through a winding covered passage, +which stands open by day, but is closed up at night by placing slabs +of ice at the angle of each bend, and thus the inmates are perfectly +secured against the severest cold. + +The Esquimaux use no fuel in winter; their stone lamps afford +sufficient heat to dry their boots and clothes, or warm their blubber +and raw meat when they are so inclined. They are inured to cold by +early habit; the children are carried about in the hoods of their +mothers' jackets until three years of age; during this period they +remain without a stitch of clothing, and the little things may be +sometimes seen standing up in their nests, exposing themselves in the +coldest weather, without appearing to suffer any inconvenience from +it. The Esquimaux never sleep with their clothes on, not even when +without any other shelter than the cleft of a rock. + +It is well known that they eat their food, whether fish or flesh, +generally in a raw state; hence their appellation, "Ashkimai," in +the Cree and Sauteux, means, eater of raw meat, and is doubtless +the origin of the name Esquimaux first applied by the earlier French +discoverers, and since then passed into general use. They sometimes, +indeed, warm their food in a stone kettle over a stone lamp, but they +seem to relish it equally well when cut warm from the carcase of an +animal recently killed, which they may be seen devouring while yet +quivering with life. + +In winter they prefer raw meat, especially fish, which is considered +a great delicacy in a frozen state; the Esquimaux stomach, in fact, +rejects nothing, raw or boiled, that affords sustenance. Like the +inland Indians, they can bear hunger for an amazing length of time, +and afterwards gorge themselves with more than brutal voracity without +suffering inconvenience by it. + +The Esquimaux breed of dogs are wolves in a domesticated state, the +same in every characteristic, save such differences as may be expected +to result from their relative conditions; the dog howls, never barks. +These animals are of the most essential service to their masters, +and are maintained at no expense. How they manage to subsist appears +inexplicable to me; not a morsel of food is ever offered to them at +the camp, and when employed hauling sledges on a journey, a small +piece of blubber given them in the evening enables them to perform the +laborious work of the ensuing day. + +From ten to fifteen dogs are employed on a long journey. They are +harnessed separately by a collar and a single trace passing over their +back, and fastened to the fore-part of the sledge. The traces are +so arranged that the dogs generally follow in a line, conducted by a +leader, who is trained to obey the word of command in an instant; the +least hesitation on his part brings the merciless whip about his ears. +The lash is about fifteen feet in length, the handle eighteen inches; +continual practice enables the Esquimaux to wield this instrument +of torture with great dexterity. The sledges are about five feet in +length and two in breadth; the runners generally shod with whalebone +or ivory, and coated over with a plaster of earth and water, which +becomes very smooth, and is renewed as often as it is worn out. + +The Esquimaux _caiak_, or canoe, is about twelve feet in length, and +two feet in breadth, and tapers off from the centre to the bow and +stern, almost to a mere point. The frame is of wood covered with +seal-skin, having an aperture in the centre which barely admits of +the stowage of the nether man. These canoes are calculated for the +accommodation of one person only; yet it is possible for a passenger +to embark upon them, if he can submit to the inconvenience--and +risk--of lying at full length on his belly, without ever stirring +hand or foot, as the least motion would upset the canoe. Instances, +however, have been known of persons conveyed hundreds of miles in this +manner. These canoes are used solely for hunting; and, by means of the +double paddle, are propelled through the water with the velocity +of the dolphin; no land animal can possibly escape when seen in the +water; the least exertion is sufficient to keep up with the rein-deer +when swimming at its utmost speed. When the animal is overtaken, it is +driven towards the spot where the huntsman wishes to land, and there +despatched by a thrust of the spear. + +The Esquimaux of this quarter have not the art of recovering their +position, when they upset. An accident of this kind is, therefore, +sure to prove fatal, unless aid be at hand. It is seldom, however, +that aid is wanting, for these accidents never happen except in the +excitement of the sport, especially harpooning whales, when there +are always a number present. The _ouimiack_, or skin-boat, is a +clumsy-looking contrivance, but not to be despised on that account; +from the buoyancy of the materials of which it is built, the ouimiack +stands a much heavier sea than our best sea-boat. This kind of craft +is rowed by women, and used for the purpose of conveying families +along the coast. + +The few implements these people use for hunting or fishing, display +much taste and ingenuity. Their caiaks are proportioned with +mathematical exactness, the paddles often tastefully inlaid with +ivory; their spears are neatly carved, and their bows are far superior +to any I have seen among the interior tribes, combining strength and +elasticity in an eminent degree. + +Their mode of capturing the white whale is extremely ingenious. A +large _dan_, or seal-skin inflated with wind, is attached to the +harpoon by a thong some twenty feet in length. The moment the fish is +struck the _dan_ is thrown overboard, and being dragged through the +water, offers so great a resistance to the movement of the fish that +it soon becomes exhausted by the exertion, and when it emerges lies +exposed on the water, to take rest ere it dive again. The Esquimaux +then approaches from behind, and often secures his game with +one thrust of the spear. The Esquimaux also uses a javelin with +considerable skill, and some are so dexterous in the use of the sling +as to bring down wild fowl on the wing. + +The complexion of the Esquimaux is swarthy; I have seen some of their +children, however, as fair as the children of the fairest people +in Europe, yet these become as dark as their parents when advanced +in years. This circumstance cannot be accounted for by filthiness +or exposure to the weather; for I have observed, on the coast of +Labrador, the descendants of an Esquimaux mother and a European father +of the third generation as dark as the pure Esquimaux; and these, too, +enjoyed the comforts of civilized life, were cleanly in their persons, +and not more exposed to the weather than others. + +The Esquimaux are low of stature, but I do not think the epithet +"dwarfish" applies to them with propriety. With the view of +ascertaining this point, I once took five men promiscuously from a +party of twenty, and found their average height to be 5 feet 5 inches. +Some individuals of the remainder measured 5 feet 7 or 8 inches, and +one exceeded 6 feet. The fact is, the Esquimaux are generally thicker +than Europeans; their peculiar dress also adds greatly to their bulk, +so that they appear shorter than they really are. They are so bound up +in their seal-skin garments that their movements are necessarily much +impeded by them, we can, therefore, form no idea of their agility; but +I do not hesitate to say that their strength exceeds that of any other +nation on the continent. + +The Esquimaux features are far from being disagreeable; some females +I observed among them whose expression of countenance was extremely +prepossessing, and who would pass for "bonnie lasses" even among the +whites, if divested of their filth and uncouth dress, and rigged out +in European habiliments. The women fasten their hair in a knot on the +crown of the head, and anoint it with rancid oil in lieu of pomatum; +they also tattoo their faces, with the view, no doubt, of enhancing +their charms in the estimation of their blubber-eating lovers. Their +teeth are remarkably white and regular; the eyes are black, and +partake more of the circular than the oval form; the cheek-bones are +prominent, forehead low, mouth large, and chin pointed. + +The Esquimaux generally enjoy good health, and no epidemic diseases, +as far as I could learn, are known among them. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + LABRADOR--ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS--MORAVIAN BRETHREN--EUROPEAN + INHABITANTS--THEIR VIRTUES--CLIMATE--ANECDOTE. + + +The country denominated Labrador, extends from Esquimaux Bay, on +the Straits of Belleisle, to the extremity of the continent, Cape +Chudleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior is +inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers and Nascopies, +members of the Cree family. The coast was inhabited at one time by +Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now peopled by a mongrel race +of Esquimaux half-breeds, a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some English +and Canadian fishermen and trappers, who are assimilated to the +natives in manners and in mode of life. While the European inhabitants +adopt from necessity some of the native customs, the natives +have adopted so much of the European customs that their primitive +characteristics are no longer distinguishable; they cook their +victuals, drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally dress after +the European manner, especially the females, who always wear gowns. +They have also a smattering of French and English, and are great +proficients in swearing in both languages; nor do they seem ignorant +of the more refined arts of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking +everything into account, however, we may be surprised that their +manners are not more corrupt than they are. + +A number of small trading vessels from the United States hover about +the coast during summer; the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a +primary article in their outfit, and is bartered freely for such +commodities as the natives may possess. These adventurers are +generally men of loose principles, and are ever ready to take the +advantage of their customers. The natives, however, are now so well +instructed that they are more likely to cheat than be cheated. + +The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts of the coast differ in +every respect from their neighbours of the south. They have acquired +a knowledge of the Christian religion, together with some of the more +useful arts of civilized life, without losing much of their primitive +simplicity. The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors of the +Apostles," after enduring inconceivable hardships and privations for +many years, without the least prospect of success, at length succeeded +in converting the heathens, collecting them in villages around them, +and at the same time not only instructing them in things pertaining to +their eternal salvation, but in everything else that could contribute +to their comfort and happiness in the present life. There are four +different stations of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and Hebron. +At each station there is a church, store, dwelling-house for the +Missionaries, and workshops for native tradesmen. The natives are +lodged in houses built after the model of their _igloes_, being the +best adapted to the climate and circumstances of the country, where +scarcely any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm their houses by +means of stoves. + +The Brethren have much the same influence with their flocks as a +father among his children. Whatever provisions the natives collect +are placed at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed in +such a manner as to be of the most general benefit; by thus taking +the management of this important matter into their own hands, the +consequences of waste and improvidence are guarded against, and the +means of subsistence secured. + +In years of great scarcity the Brethren open their own stores, having +always an ample supply of provisions on hand, so that through their +fostering care the natives never suffer absolute want. The Brethren +have also goods for trading, which they dispose of at a moderate +profit; the profits accruing from the business are thrown into the +general funds of the institution. It is said they carry on trade in +every part of the world where they have missions. Their object is not +to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to extend the kingdom of +Christ on earth; to enlighten the nations; and by instructing them in +the knowledge of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" in this +life, and secure their eternal happiness in the life to come. + +From the paternal anxiety with which these good people watch over the +morals of their flocks, they discourage as much as possible the visits +of strangers; fearing that intercourse with them might open their eyes +to the allurements of vice. In spite of all their vigilance, however, +they have sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. It is an +established rule, moreover, with them, never to allow a stranger to +sleep within their gates; he is hospitably received and treated with +kindness and attention, but on the approach of evening he is apprised +that he must shift for himself: care is taken, however, to provide him +with lodgings in one of the native huts, where he can pass the night +in tolerable comfort. Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he +is at liberty to depart when he pleases. + +The European inhabitants of Labrador are for the most part British +sailors, who, preferring the freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the +society of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime discipline and +the endearments of the civilized fair, take up their abode for life in +this land of desolation. + +In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor settles down into the +regular grave father of a family; and by sobriety and good conduct, +may ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old age. Jack's +characteristic thoughtlessness, however, sometimes adheres to him even +when moored on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is +truly miserable. + +They pass the summer in situations favourable for catching salmon, +which they barter on the spot with the stationary traders for such +commodities as they are in want of. When the salmon fishing is at +an end, they proceed to the coast for the purpose of fishing cod for +their own consumption, and return late in autumn to the interior, +where they pass the winter trapping fur animals. + +The planters, as they are designated, live in houses which they +call "tilts," varying in shape and size according to the taste or +circumstances of the owner. These buildings are generally formed of +stakes driven into the ground, chinked with moss, and covered with +bark; they are always warmed with stoves, otherwise the _igloe_ would +afford more comfort. + +The half-breeds live in much the same way as their European +progenitors; they are generally sober and industrious; and although +unacquainted with any particular form of religious worship, they +evince, in their general deportment, a greater regard to the precepts +of Christianity than many who call themselves Christians. They are +entirely free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, and are +guilty of few of its vices; should a frail fair, however, make a _faux +pas_, it is no bar to her forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards. +The women are much fewer than the men, and on this account a greater +indulgence may be extended to their faults than otherwise would be. + +I was surprised to find them all able to read and write, although +without schools or schoolmasters. The task of teaching devolves +upon the mother; should she (what seldom happens) be unqualified, a +neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction. + +The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious and ingenious; they +are at a loss for nothing. The men make their own boats, and the women +prepare everything required for domestic convenience; almost every +man is his own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman a tailor and +shoemaker. They seem to possess all the virtues of the different races +from which they are sprung--except courage; they are generally allowed +to be more timid than the natives. But if not courageous, they possess +virtues that render courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence, +and are seldom, therefore, injured by others. + +The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing here a few years ago, by +buying out some of the petty traders, whose operations extended to the +interior, and consequently interfered with the hopeful Ungava scheme; +independently, however, of this consideration, expectations were +entertained that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable branch +of the business, from its various resources in fish, oil, and furs. +These expectations were not realized, owing to the strong competition +the Company met with; while their interference in the trade subjected +them to the charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which appears but +too well founded, considering the monopoly they possess of the whole +fur trade of the continent. "Plus le D----e a, plus il voudrait +avoir," is an old adage; nor have we any reason to believe that any +other mercantile body would be less ambitious of increasing their +gains, than their _honours_ of Fenchurch-street. + +There are several establishments along the coast, belonging chiefly to +merchants from Plymouth and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon and cod +fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic also with the planters. +This business was at one time considered very lucrative; of late +years, however, competition has increased from all quarters, and +prices in the European market have diminished, so that the profits are +now greatly reduced. + +The climate of the southern section of Labrador is by no means severe; +the thermometer, even in the coldest months of the year, seldom +falling lower than 30 deg. below zero. Along the shores of Esquimaux Bay, +a few spots have been found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes +and other culinary vegetables have been raised in abundance. Grain, +especially oats and barley, would doubtless also thrive; it so +happens, however, that the inhabitants are under the necessity of +devoting their attention to other pursuits during the season of +husbandry; so that the few that attempt "gardening," derive small +benefit from it. They sow their seed before starting for the coast, +and leave nature to do the rest. + +I shall close my description of Labrador by narrating a rather +tragical event that occurred a few years ago. An old fisherman, +formerly a sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, lived +together in the greatest amity and concord. The son, after the death +of his mother, attended to domestic affairs, and also assisted his +father at out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, however, +it was considered expedient to hire a female, so that they might give +their undivided attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained +long with them, when her charms began to make an impression on Jack's +still sensitive heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid their +addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred. + +The demon of jealousy now took possession of the father's breast; and +his conduct became so violent and cruel, that his son determined on +parting company with him and carrying off the girl. Seizing the only +boat that belonged to his father, he slipped away under cover of night +with his companion, and put ashore on the first island they found. A +violent storm arose in the course of the night, and either dashed the +boat to pieces on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus the +unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. This event happened late +in autumn. The winter passed without any word being heard of the +lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were found clasped in each +other's arms, and the young man's gun close by with fifteen notches +cut in the stock, supposed to mark the number of days they suffered +ere relieved by death. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVE AT + THE PLACE OF MY NATIVITY--CHANGES--DEPOPULATION--LONDON--THE + THAMES--LIVERPOOL--EMBARK FOR NEW YORK--ARRIVAL--THE + AMERICANS--ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TOURISTS--ENGLAND AND + AMERICA--NEW YORK. + + +1842.--I embarked for England on the 18th of August, on board a small +schooner of sixty tons, deeply laden with fish and oil. It is scarcely +necessary to observe, that the accommodations the craft afforded +were of the meanest kind; but the inconveniences weighed lightly in +the scales, when compared with the anticipated delight of visiting +one's native land. We had a very fine passage; a steady fair breeze +carried us across the broad Atlantic in a fortnight. The green hills +of Cornwall came in view on the 1st of September, and I had the +satisfaction of treading the soil of England early on the 3d. + +I remained a few days at Plymouth, to feast my eyes on scenery such as +I had long been a stranger to;--scenery, I may say, unrivalled by any +I had ever beheld at home or abroad. What spot in the world, in fact, +can present such varied charms, as the summit of Mount Edgecumb? where +the most refined taste, aided by the amplest means, has been employed +for a thousand years in beautifying the glorious landscape. To me, +just arrived from _Ungava_, the beauties of the scene were undoubtedly +heightened by the contrast; and one short visit to Mount Edgecumb +effaced from my mind the dreary prospect of bleak rocks, snow banks, +and icebergs, with which it had been so long and so sadly familiar, +and inspired it with a rapture and delight to which it had long been +a stranger. Yet this terrestrial paradise, I am informed, belongs to +a noble lord, who is a miserable invalid. Alas, for poor humanity! +neither wealth nor grandeur preserve their possessors from the ills +that flesh is heir to: and this nobleman may, perhaps, envy the lot of +the humblest individual that visits his enchanting domain. + +Bidding adieu to Plymouth, and its delightful environs, I set out +for London on the 11th of September. The desire of home, however, +now urged me forward; so that even the wonders of this wonderful +city could not detain me. Passing over the uninteresting incidents of +steamboat and railroad travelling, I arrived on the 20th of September +at the spot from which I had started twenty-three years before. The +meeting of a mother with an only son, after so long an absence, need +not be described, nor the feelings the well-known scenes of youthful +sports and youthful joys gave rise to. These scenes were still the +same, as far as the hand of Nature was concerned:--there stood the +lofty Benmore, casting his sombre shades over the glassy surface of +Lochba, as in the days of yore; there were also the same heath-covered +hills and wooded dells, well stocked with sheep and cattle; but +the human inhabitants of the woods and dells--where were they?--far +distant from their much-loved native land in the wilds of America, +or toiling for a miserable existence in the crowded cities of the +Lowlands,--a sad change! The bleating of sheep, and lowing of cattle, +for the glad voices of a numerous population, happy and contented with +their lot, loyal to their sovereign, and devotedly attached to their +chiefs! But loyalty and attachment are but fancies, which, in these +utilitarian and trading days, are flat and unprofitable; yet the +aristocratical manufacturers of beef and mutton may live to feel the +truth of the lines of Goldsmith:-- + + "But a bold peasantry, their country's pride, + When once destroyed, can never be supplied." + +I remained about six weeks in my native country, and set out for +London, where I arrived early in November,--"the beginning of the gay +season;" but it appeared to me the reverse. The city was shrouded in +a cloud of condensed smoke and fog, that shut out the light of heaven. +During three whole days the obscurity was so great that the steamboats +were prevented from plying on the Thames, and the gas-lights were +seen glimmering through the windows at noon-day. How applicable is +the description of the Roman historian to the Rome of our day:--"Caput +orbis terrarum, urbis magnificentiam augebant fora, templa, porticas, +aquaeductus, theatra, horti denique, et ejus generis alia, ad quae +vel lecta animus stupet." My time was too limited, however, and the +weather too unfavourable, to admit of my seeing all the "lions;" but +who would think of leaving London without visiting that wonderful +work--the Tunnel,--that lasting monument of the genius of a Brunell, +and of the wealth and enterprise of British merchants! + +A Cockney may well boast of his great city, its wealth, its vast +population, and its magnificent buildings; but with regard to the +Thames, of which he is equally proud,--he that has seen the St. +Lawrence, the Hudson, the McKenzie, and many others, compared to which +the Thames is but a rivulet, may be excused if he cannot view its +not very limpid waters with the same extravagant admiration as the +Londoner, who calls the Serpentine a river, and dignifies a pond of a +few roods in extent with the name of a lake. Yet there is one feature +about the Thames, of which he can scarcely be too proud, and which +is unparalleled perhaps in the world,--the often-noticed "forest of +masts," extending farther than the eye can reach, and suggesting,--not +the silence and solitude of the forests with which I have been +familiar,--but the countless population, the wealth, and the grandeur +of Britain; and the might and the majesty of civilized and industrious +man. + +I took leave of London on the 12th of September, and set out for +Liverpool by railroad, and reached it in six hours. I had sufficient +time to visit its docks, crowded by the ships of every nation; its +warehouses containing the produce of every clime; and, though last, +not least in my estimation, the splendid monument erected to the +memory of Nelson. No monument of stone or brass is necessary to +perpetuate our hero's fame; he lives in the heart of every true +Briton, and will ever live, till British oak and British prowess shall +cease to "rule the waves." + +I embarked on the 15th of December on board a sailing-packet bound +for New York. These vessels are so punctual to the hour of sailing +advertised, that, if the wind proves contrary, and blows fresh, they +are towed out to sea by steamboats. This proved to be our case, and we +kept tacking about in the "chops" of the Channel for six days, when +a fair wind sprung up that soon carried us out of sight of England. +England! great and glorious country, adieu! I shall probably never +see thee more; but in quitting thy white-cliffed shores, I quit not my +ardent attachment and veneration for thee;--and now for _thy_ eldest +daughter beyond the ocean! + +To me, who had spent so much of my lifetime in solitude, the tedium +of the voyage so much complained of was gaiety itself; with three +fellow-passengers besides the captain, the time passed very agreeably. +On board these floating palaces a passenger, in fact, finds everything +that can contribute to his comfort; the best of accommodation, the +best of fare, and the best of attendance; so that there is nothing +wanting but _stability_, to make him fancy himself in a first-class +hotel on shore. + +The weather proved extremely favourable throughout the passage; not an +incident occurred worthy of notice; and on the 17th of January, 1843, +I landed safely at New York, and thus found myself for the first time +in a foreign land; and, since fate has so decreed, among a foreign +people. Yes! they are foreigners, if being called by another name, and +living under a different form of government can make them so; yet in +language, in laws, in religion, and in blood, we are the same. Their +ancestors brought abroad with them the same sentiments of regard +and attachment to their native land as we feel; they rejoiced in the +prosperity of Britain; felt proud of her victories, and grieved at +her misfortunes. Alas, how different the feelings of the present race! +Britain may, in fact, reckon the Americans of the present day her most +inveterate foes; those who are of our own kindred, and whom therefore +we might expect to stand by us in our hour of need, regard us with +more envy and hatred than the "hereditary foes" with whom we have been +for centuries engaged in mortal strife. + +In resisting the arbitrary acts of a misguided government, the +American people only proved themselves possessed of the same noble +spirit that procured for their English progenitors the confirmation of +Magna Charta, and that hurled a tyrant from his throne. The heroes of +the American revolution nobly fought and conquered; they entered the +arena with fearful odds against them; they continued the struggle +under every disadvantage, save the sacredness of their cause; and +finally won the prize for which they contended. Of that prize the +Americans of the present day have undisputed possession; and nothing +can be more certain than that the Britons of the present day have no +wish to deprive them of it--even if they could. What cause, then, can +there be for still cherishing those feelings of animosity which the +unhappy disruption gave rise to? If our fathers quarrelled, cannot +we be friends? But are not the British themselves to blame, in +some measure, for the continuance of these irritated feelings? The +mercenary pens of prejudiced, narrow-minded individuals contribute +daily to add fuel to the flame. Our "Diaries," and our "Notes," +replete with offensive remarks, are, from the cheapness of +publication, disseminated through the length and breadth of the Union, +and are in everybody's hands; and those foolish remarks are supposed +to be the sentiments of the British nation; when they are in fact +only the sentiments of individuals whose opinions are little valued at +home, and ought to be less valued abroad. + +Circumstances taken into consideration, I think it very unfair to +draw comparisons between the social condition of young America, just +become a distinct nation, and of old England, whose empire has lasted +a thousand years. The American people are still too much occupied +with the necessaries of life to devote much of their time to its +elegancies; they are still engaged in the pursuits that ultimately +ensure wealth and real independence. Those results attained, what is +there to prevent the American gentleman from becoming as polished and +accomplished as his cousin in Britain? Can it be supposed, with the +least shadow of reason, that the short period that has elapsed since +the Revolution can have been sufficient to produce that alteration in +the character and manners of the Americans, which our travellers love +to exercise their wit upon? It is impossible. The Americans "guessed," +and "calculated," and "speculated," while they were British subjects, +just as they do now; nor have they learned to chew, and spit, and +smoke tobacco since the 4th of July, 1782. + +As to the peculiar phrases the Americans use in conversation, I am +convinced that their forefathers brought the greater part of them from +Britain, as many of those phrases are to be found in the works of +old English authors still extant. The English language as spoken in +America, is elegance itself, compared to the provincial dialects of +Britain, or even to the vile slang one hears in the streets of London. +This is a fact that every unprejudiced person who has travelled in +America must admit. + +It appears Americans find leisure, of late years, to travel and take +notes, as well as their transatlantic brethren; and, in return for the +polite attentions of our travellers, describe England and Englishmen +in the bitter language of recrimination and retort; and thus the +enmity between the mother and daughter is kept alive and perpetuated. +A publication of this kind fell lately into my hands, entitled, "The +Glory and Shame of England." The writer, said to be a _Christian +minister_, with the malignity of baser minds, sinks and keeps in the +background her "glories," and brings into relief and dwells upon her +shameful parts; representing in the most sombre colours the misery of +the "squalid" population of our cities. Would to God there were not +so much truth in the picture! His reverence, however, seems to have +lost sight of the clergyman; and in gratifying his resentment against +England, and in his zeal to kindle the same unchristian feeling in +the breasts of his countrymen, has not hesitated to sacrifice the +truth;--and he a clergyman, whose office it is to "proclaim peace on +earth, and good-will to men!" + +That there is much misery and wretchedness in England, none can deny; +but will not the well-informed philanthropist consider it rather as +our misfortune than our reproach?--consisting mainly, as that mass +of wretchedness does, of those ills which neither "kings nor laws can +cause or cure." What plan would this philanthropic divine recommend to +remove those evils, which, while he affects to deplore, he yet glories +over? Strip the nobility and land-owners of their possessions--convert +our monarchy into a republic--and the church into a "meetin ouse?" + +These _reforms_ effected, would the people of England be permanently +benefited by them? Supposing the whole arable soil of England were +divided in equal portions among its crowded inhabitants, (passing +by the injustice of robbing the present proprietors of their lawful +possessions--many of them acquired by the same hard labour or skill +by which an artisan gains his weekly wages,) would the equality +of property long continue? Would not the sloth, improvidence, and +imprudence, that ever distinguish a great proportion of mankind; and +the industry, foresight, and ambition that characterise others, soon +bring many of the equal lots into one, thus forming a great estate, +the property of an individual,--when matters would just be at the +point where his reverence found them? And then, of course, would +follow another "equitable adjustment," to relieve the wants of the +poor, whose progenitors had squandered their patrimony. Or, admitting +that the lots remained in possession of the families to whom they were +originally granted, would the produce be equal to the maintenance +of their numerous descendants, when the property became divided and +subdivided into fifty or a hundred shares? + +The present proprietors of the soil of England have, undoubtedly, +large incomes; but what becomes of those incomes? Do they not flow +back into the hands of the merchants, tradesmen, servants, &c.?--the +greater proportion, at least; for the sums expended by our tourists +on the continent form so inconsiderable a portion of those incomes, +as not to be worth mentioning. The same may be said of the _alleged_ +wealth of the clergy; for (admitting the allegation) it all flows back +into the channels whence it issued; and, although neither belonging +to the Church of England, nor approving of her forms of government, I +do not think that her downfall would improve the _temporal_ condition +of the people. If we wish to remain a Christian nation, we cannot +dispense with the services of the clergy; and in order that those +services may be efficient, they must be maintained in independence and +respectability. + +As to a republican form of government, that experiment has been +already tried in England, and failed; it may be tried again with no +better success. The circumstances in which the American people found +themselves after the Revolution, rendered the adoption of republican +institutions both safe and beneficial. They had learned by experience +that the remote position of their country secured their independence +from the ambitious projects of any power in Europe; while they had +nothing to fear from any power in America. Thus situated, any form of +government, consistent with the due maintenance of good order at home, +answered their purpose. The nascent republic might, at the period in +question, have adopted as its motto, "Liberty and Equality," with +the utmost propriety; for all enjoyed equal liberty, and nearly equal +fortunes. Experience, however, shows that liberty and equality cannot +long exist under any form of government; industry procures wealth, +wealth induces ambition, and ambition sighs after distinction and +power. + +While America feels secure from the aggression of her neighbours, +Great Britain is surrounded by powerful states, some of whom afford +her daily proofs of their envy of her greatness and their hatred of +her power; and only want the ability, not the will, to annihilate +both. Those states are, for the most part, ruled by absolute or +despotic governments, who can call fleets and armies into action +without losing a moment in debating the justice or injustice, policy +or impolicy, of their movements. With such neighbours as these, would +the Messenger of Peace recommend the "Britishers" to adopt a form of +government which would necessitate them to debate and consult while +their enemies were acting; and to remit to the people to discuss the +question of peace or war, when they should be enlisting and drilling +them? + +Columbia, happy land! the broad Atlantic intervenes between thee and +the envy or hatred of Europe; thy wide domain, presenting millions of +acres of untenanted land, stands open to the industry and enterprise +of thy citizens. How thankful, then, ought they to be for the +blessings they enjoy, compared with the condition of their brethren +"beyond the water," confined as they are to the narrow limits of their +sea-girt isle, whose soil is no longer sufficient for the support of +its over-crowded inhabitants, and surrounded by hostile nations, who +have long since pronounced the sentence, "_Delenda est Britannia!_" + +"Boz" has already told his countrymen all that is worth telling about +New York, and something more. What the "Dickens" brought him to +the "Five Points?" Did he never visit Wapping with the same views, +whatever they might be? If he did, did he observe nothing in that sink +of filth and wickedness equal to the scenes that shocked him so much +in the outskirts of New York? One just arrived from England finds +little in this city to excite wonder or admiration, unless it be the +extraordinary width of some of the streets. Were those streets kept +clean, and the liberty of the pigs a little restrained, the citizens +might well boast of their superiority to most of the streets of our +British cities; and as their taste improves, everything unsightly will +be removed. + +Nature has done much for New York: she possesses one of the finest +harbours in the world; her climate is pleasant and salubrious; and +one of the noblest rivers of America gives her the command of the +commercial resources of a country which equals in extent nearly all +Europe. New York will undoubtedly become one of the first cities in +the world; in commerce, in wealth, in population, she has advanced at +a prodigious rate within the last fifty years, and her progress is not +likely to be arrested. + +The aqueduct that supplies the town with water, pure, wholesome, and +abundant, is well worth the notice of a stranger. This stupendous work +was executed at a cost of nine millions of dollars, and conveys the +water from a distance of forty miles!--the genius of the engineer +and the power of money overcoming every obstacle. The two great +reservoirs, near the city, present splendid specimens of that kind of +architecture. Happening in company to express my opinion of this work, +as reflecting the highest credit on the enterprise of the citizens, a +gentleman present, evidently an American, in reply to the compliment, +observed, "It is very much to their advantage, no doubt, and it will +also be much to their credit, if they pay the debt they incurred in +constructing it." The fact is, that this and many other public works +in the United States, have been executed by British capital. Would to +heaven that our _sympathising_ friends, who are so jealous in regard +to the honour of America, where a few thousand acres of worthless land +are concerned, were equally jealous in regard to it when, under the +newly-invented name of _repudiation_, the honour of their country is +tarnished by a vast system of unblushing robbery! Would to heaven that +their _sympathies_ were extended to the thousands who are involved in +misery and ruin by this audacious system of national perfidy! + +If the art or ingenuity of the good citizens of New York has not +produced very many objects worthy of admiration, the faces of their +lovely fair make ample amends for it. Among the crowds of charmers +who throng the fashionable promenade of Broadway, scarcely an ordinary +face is to be seen. I, in fact, saw more pretty faces there in one +hour than in all my tour in Britain. + +I landed in New York without any prejudice against the Americans, and +I now take leave of their commercial capital with feelings of esteem +and regret. In the society I frequented I neither saw nor heard +anything unworthy of, or unbecoming the descendants of Britons. Some +little peculiarities, the natural result of circumstances, I certainly +noticed; some differences also in their social life; but I shall leave +it to those who are disposed to find fault to criticise these matters. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER--THE + PASSENGERS--ARRIVAL AT ALBANY--JOURNEY TO MONTREAL. + + +The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted by ice, I +determined on proceeding to Albany by steamboat, in preference to the +railroad, with the view of seeing the far-famed scenery of the country +through which the river flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of +February. We had not proceeded far, however, when we found the face of +the country covered with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated +from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost. + +Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold became so severe as we +ascended, that the deck was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the +stove was considered the best. The passengers being now all crowded +below, the group presented a complete epitome of American society: +here were members of the legislature proceeding to the capital on +parliamentary duty; here also were congregated in the same cabin, +merchants, mechanics, and farmers, messing at the same board, and at +first mixed up promiscuously together. They did not, however, long +continue so; the more respectable part, separating from the crowd, +occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied the other. Thus +the homogeneous ingredients of the mass having united, no further +mixture took place during the passage. + +It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally be observed +stepping beyond the ideal boundary, and sitting down among the +plebeians, probably some of his constituents,--would call for a pipe, +and, stretching out his legs, commence to puff, spit, and debate, like +one of themselves; and having by these means convinced them that he +still considered them as his _equals_, would retire again _ad suos_. + +The Americans are accused by Europeans of being cold and reserved +towards strangers; for my part, I found them sociable and +communicative in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked on +board the steamboat I found myself quite at home. I was much pleased +to observe the rational manner in which the passengers amused +themselves. Little groups were formed, where religion, politics and +business matters were discussed with excellent sense and judgment. +These seemed to be the common topics of discourse in both ends of the +cabin. I frequented both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in +either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush to the table; such a +scene as the latter is only to be seen in America. + +The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:-- + +"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!" + +Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, elbowing, until they +take their seats. I was, however, particularly struck with the +attention shown to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and +the total absence of impure or profane expressions in conversation. +How unlike the scenes one witnesses on board our steamboats in +Britain, where the meaner sort of passengers seem to travel on purpose +to indulge in drinking! + +I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress having been much +retarded by the quantity of ice drifting in the river. Finding that +the mail was to start for Canada in the course of the night, I decided +on going with it, without seeing the capital of New York. Owing to the +mildness of the season up to the present time, the roads were in +the worst possible condition, and the motion of the carriage passing +rapidly over the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently frozen +solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful. + +We continued, however, to jolt on night and day, without rest, save +during the short time necessary for changing or baiting cattle. The +roads became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A considerable +quantity of snow had fallen lately, which rendered travelling +in a wheeled carriage not only disagreeable in the extreme, but +also dangerous. We broke down several times, but without serious +inconvenience. On one of these occasions we picked ourselves up +opposite a farm house, in which we took shelter while the driver was +putting matters to rights. It being yet early, the inmates were still +in bed; we nevertheless found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth, +and seated ourselves around it. + +All of a sudden the door of a small apartment flew open, and a large +black cat sprang in amongst us. + +"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said one of the passengers, +addressing himself to me. "What do you think of the ingenuity of our +Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we should have had a page or +two more to his notes; and I am sure it would have proved at least as +interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's conversation with his +cattle." + +"That's a fact," said I. + +After being jolted and pitched about until every bone in my body +ached again, I reached St. John's on the 12th; and the snow being now +sufficiently deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder +of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + EMBARK FOR THE NORTH--PASSENGERS ARRIVE AT FORT + WILLIAM--DESPATCH FROM GOVERNOR--APPOINTED TO MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ADVENTURE ON GREAT SLAVE + LAKE--ARRIVE AT FORT SIMPSON--PRODUCTIONS OF THE POST. + + +I spent the remainder of the winter enjoying the good things of this +life, and on the 28th of April received orders to proceed to Lachine, +preparatory to embarking for the north. I embarked on the 29th, but +the crews were so intoxicated that we were compelled to land on an +island near by, to allow them to recover from the effects of their +carousals. + +I was joined here by Captain Stalk of the 71st, and Lieutenant Lefroy +of the Artillery; the former accompanying us on a jaunt of pleasure, +the latter on a scientific expedition. There were also four junior +clerks in the Company's service. Our brigade consisted of three large +canoes manned by about fifty Canadians, and Iroquois Indians. + +We were detained in our insular encampment by stress of weather until +the 2d of May, when we set out. Our crews being now perfectly sober, +plied their paddles with the utmost good-will, singing and whooping, +apparently delighted with their situation. Ignorance here was bliss; +they little dreamed of the life that awaited them. I may here premise, +that as I have already narrated the particulars of a similar voyage, +I shall pass on to the different stages of our route without noticing +the uninteresting incidents of our daily progress. + +We arrived at Fort William on the 28th of May, where we exchanged our +large Montreal canoes for smaller. Here Captain S. remained to await +his passage back to Canada; not much disposed to try such a jaunt +of pleasure again, I suspect,--and Lieutenant L., taking a canoe for +himself with a view of prosecuting his scientific researches more at +leisure than our go-a-head mode of travelling admitted, left us also. +We were detained a day at Fort William, repairing canoes, arranging +crews, &c., and on the 30th, I took leave of my excellent _compagnons +de voyage_ with sincere regret. + +On descending Lac la Pluie River, we landed at an extensive Sauteux +camp, where we found a Protestant (Methodist) Missionary, with a +native interpreter as his only companion. I learned with much regret, +that this gentleman's exertions in his vocation had been attended with +little or no success, although he had been two years engaged in it; +while the Romish priests, in the same space of time, had converted +numbers. + +The natives were occupied with the sturgeon fishing, and had +apparently been tolerably successful. Having procured a supply for the +use of our crews by barter, we set off, and without experiencing any +accident, reached Bas de la Riviere on the 13th of June, where I found +letters from the Governor, directing me to proceed with all possible +speed to York Factory. + +Having learned on my way coming up, that one of the gentlemen in +McKenzie's River district had resigned, and would quit the country +this year,--I felt convinced I should be appointed his successor; that +being one of the most wretched parts of the Indian country, it was +quite a matter of course that I should be sent thither. Knowing from +dear-bought experience, however, that my constitution could no +longer bear the hardships and privations to which I had been so long +subjected, I wrote the Governor on the subject, and requested that +he would grant me an appointment where I might enjoy some degree of +comfort--a favour which I humbly conceived my former services entitled +me to--otherwise I should retire from the service. We had a fine +passage across Lake Winnipeg, and I landed at Norway House with all my +party safe and sound, on the 18th of June. I remained there till the +21st, and then set out for York Factory, where I had been about ten +days, when an express arrived from Norway House with the Governor's +final orders to me, and also his reply to my last communication, which +I here insert at full length. + +"Red River Settlement, "_June_ 22, 1843. + +"DEAR SIR, + +"My eyes are so completely worn out, that I cannot give you a single +private line under my own hand. I have perused with attention your +private letter of the 14th instant, and should have been glad had it +been in my power to have met your wishes in regard to an appointment; +but from the few commissioned gentlemen disposable this season, it was +quite impossible to consult wishes. You were, therefore, long before +receipt of your letter, appointed to McKenzie's River. That is now one +of the finest fields we have for extension of trade, and I count much +on your activity for promoting our views in that quarter. But while +directing your attention to the extension of _your district_, you must +likewise use your best endeavours to curtail the indents, as they have +of late been on a most alarming scale, comprehending nearly as many +articles as appear in our Columbia requisition; if you look on my +notes on the last requisition, you will find that I have been under +the necessity of making some further curtailments. I am sorry the +idea of retiring has entered your mind, as I was in hopes we could +count upon some efficient services out of you while still young and +vigorous. + +"The Company have of late declined making any purchases of retired +interests; it would be therefore quite unnecessary to make any +application on that head, as they have lost money by all the recent +purchases they have made in that way. + +"I am at the Lower Fort, where Mr. Ross came in on me very +unexpectedly, just as we were preparing to get on horseback for the +upper part of the settlement, so that I am much pressed for time, +which will account for the brevity of this communication. + +"Pray let me hear from you in Canada by the last canoes, as I shall +not then have taken my departure from Montreal. + +"I remain, &c. &c. + +(Signed) "GEORGE SIMPSON." + +Judging, from the instructions contained in the above communication, +that I was appointed to the charge of the district, I made up my mind +to try how far my health could endure the hardships of which I already +had had more than my share; and without a moment's delay, set out for +Norway House in a light canoe, where I arrived on the 16th of July. +My friend Mr. C---- arrived with his returns from Athabasca a few +days afterwards, and his arrangements being completed on the 24th, I +embarked as a passenger with him. + +We reached the small river Mithai on the 4th of September, when we +found the water so low as barely to admit of the passage of the +light boats. It happened most fortunately that there were a number of +Chippewayan Indians encamped on the spot at the time, else we should +have been completely at a nonplus. The crews, good souls! hired +those Indians at their own expense, to carry the greater part of the +property in their small canoes to the upper part of the river. At the +portage we found a number of half-breeds, with their horses, from +the Saskatchewan, awaiting our arrival, in the expectation of being +employed to transport the goods. Nor were they disappointed; sooner +than undergo the harassing toil of carrying the outfit across a +portage of twelve miles, the men hired the half-breeds, parting with +their most valuable articles in payment. + +Several propositions have been made, of late years, to the Governor, +for sparing the men the inhuman labour of this portage, which they +must either perform, or sacrifice a considerable part of their paltry +wages to avoid it. It was suggested, for instance, that a sufficient +number of horses should be stationed at a certain locality, with the +requisite conveniences, near the portage, and a couple of men hired +on purpose to take care of them, whose wages the winterers should +pay out of their own pockets, which they readily assented to; as the +transport, by this arrangement, would only cost them one-third of what +it cost them to employ the half-breeds. His Excellency, however, was +quite "sick" of the Portage La Loche subject; he knew as much about it +as anybody, and felt quite assured that it was the easiest part of the +men's duties throughout the voyage! While canoes were used, the duty +at Portage la Loche was not nearly so severe as at present; a canoe +carried only twenty-five pieces, and was manned by six men; a boat's +crew consists only of seven men, while the cargo consists of from +sixty to seventy pieces. + +The descent of the Clear Water and Athabasca rivers was effected +without any accident, and we arrived at Athabasca on the 16th of +September; whence I set out again, after a few days' delay, for Fort +Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, where I was detained by stress of +weather until the 29th. + +I left the post late in the evening, and intended to encamp on an +island at a convenient distance; but the season being far advanced, I +felt anxious to proceed, and inquired of my pilot whether he thought +there would be any risk in travelling all night? "Not the least," was +the reply; and we rowed on accordingly till morning; when lo! the only +objects to be seen were sea and sky. In vain we strained the organs +of vision to discover land; there we were, as if in the midst of the +ocean, surrounded on all sides by the unbroken circle of the horizon. +I do not know that I ever felt more seriously alarmed than at this +moment, thus to find myself exposed on an unknown sea, as it might +well be termed, in an open boat, and at such an advanced period of +the season, without any means of ascertaining what course to steer for +land. It would appear our steersman had been napping at the helm in +the course of the night, and thus allowed the boat to deviate from her +course without noticing it; hence the awkwardness and even the danger +of our present situation. + +While considering with myself what was best to be done, a fine breeze +sprang up; I ordered the sail to be hoisted immediately, determined on +going before it until we made land, no matter where. Fortunately the +wind continued steady all day, and we at length reached the land a +little after sunset, having run at least forty miles. We put ashore +at the first convenient landing we could find, and encamped for the +night. Having consulted a map I had with me, and observing by the sun +the direction in which we had crossed the lake, (for we had actually +crossed it at its greatest width,) I could make out pretty clearly +that we had turned our backs to our true course! We had, however, a +good supply of provisions, and a voyageur is never discouraged while +he has the provender before him. Having now learned, to my cost, what +confidence my pilot was entitled to, I determined on keeping land in +view for the future. + +We embarked early next morning, and, after a tedious and laborious +passage of seven days, arrived at Big Island fishery at the outlet of +the Lake on the 8th of October, where I found a boat ready to start +with a cargo of fish, in which I embarked; and landing finally at Fort +Simpson on the 16th, my long trip of five months _per mare et terram_, +was brought to a close; and high time it should, for the weather was +become excessively cold, and the ice was forming along the beach. + +I was much grieved to find Mr. Lewis confined to bed in consequence of +a shocking accident he had lately met with, his right hand being blown +off by the accidental discharge of his fowling-piece. + +Having perused the governor's official letter to Mr. Lewis, I found +the following paragraph in it relating to myself:--"On retiring from +the district next season, you will be pleased to invest Mr. McLean +with the management, handing to that gentleman all correspondence, +papers, &c., connected with the public business." This paragraph, +taken in conjunction with the instructions I had previously received, +confirmed both Mr. L. and myself in the opinion that I was to succeed +him in the charge; and we took our measures accordingly. + +I was very agreeably surprised to find that the high latitude of this +locality (61 deg. north) did not prevent agricultural operations from +being carried on with success. Although the season had been rather +unfavourable, the farm yielded four hundred bushels of potatoes, +and upwards of one hundred bushels of barley; the barnyard, with its +stacks of barley and hay, and the number of horned cattle around it, +had quite the air of a farm standing in the "old country." It is to be +regretted that the gentlemen here should have paid so little attention +to the cultivation of the soil in former times, as the produce +would, ere now, not only have contributed to the support of the +establishment, but have afforded assistance to the natives in years of +scarcity. + +For these three years past the distress of the natives in this +quarter has been without parallel; several hundreds having perished of +want--in some instances, even at the gates of the trading post, whose +inmates, far from having it in their power to relieve others, required +relief themselves. Here, as in most other parts of the wooded country, +rabbits form the principal subsistence of the natives, and when they +fail, starvation is the sure and inevitable result; but no former +period has been so productive of distress, to so fearful an extent, as +the present. With the produce of the farm, Mr. L. was enabled to save +the lives of all those who resorted to his own post; but at Forts Good +Hope, Norman, and De Liard, no assistance could be given; as those +posts, like most others in the Indian country, depend entirely on +the means the country affords in fish, flesh, and fowl, for their +subsistence. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + STATEMENTS IN THE EDINBURGH CABINET LIBRARY--ALLEGED + KINDNESS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY TO THE INDIANS--AND + GENEROSITY--SUPPORT OF MISSIONARIES--SUPPORT + WITHDRAWN--PREFERENCE OF ROMAN CATHOLICS--THE NORTH-WEST + COMPANY--CONDUCT OF A BRITISH PEER--RIVALRY OF THE + COMPANIES--COALITION--CHARGES AGAINST THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY + REFUTED. + + +A volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, in which the Company's +territories are described, came lately into my hands. It is there +remarked, that "the Company's posts serve as hospitals, to which +the Indians resort during sickness, and are supplied with food and +medicine; that when winter arrives, the diseased and infirm are +frequently left there; that the Company have made the most laudable +efforts to instruct and civilize them, employing, at a great expense, +Missionaries and Teachers," &c. + +I am well aware that the author of this valuable production took it +for granted that the information he had obtained, relative to our +treatment of the Indians, and other matters, was correct, or he would +not have permitted it to go forth to the world under the authority +and sanction of his name. But without intending any disrespect to the +author, I take leave to state that the above quotations have not the +slightest foundation in fact. Our posts serve as hospitals! I have now +passed twenty-four years of my life-time in the country; I have served +in every quarter of it; and I own that I have never yet known a single +instance of an Indian being retained at any inland post for medical +treatment. The knowledge the natives possess of the medicinal virtues +of roots and herbs, is generally equal to the cure of all their +ailments; and we are, in fact, more frequently indebted to them, than +they to us, for medical advice. I may mention, however, by way of +exception to the general rule, that the depots along the coast are +well supplied with medicines, and that there are medical men there who +administer them to the natives when they apply for them. + +In the interior we are allowed to doctor ourselves as we best can. +What with the salubrity of the climate, and our abstemious fare, we +are enabled, with the aid of a little Turlington balsam, and a dose +of salts, perhaps, to overcome all our ailments. Most of us also use +the lancet, and can even "spread a plaster, or give a glister," when +necessary; but the Indians seldom trouble us. + +As to the instruction the natives receive from us, I am at a loss to +know what it is, where imparted, and by whom given. "A tale I could, +unfold!" But let it pass: certain it is, that neither our example nor +our precept has had the effect of improving the morals or principles +of the natives;--they are neither more enlightened, nor more +civilized, by our endeavours, than if we had never appeared among +them. The native interpreters even grow old in our service as ignorant +of Christianity as the rudest savages who have never seen the face of +a white man. + +The Church Missionary Society has had two Missionaries stationed at +Red River settlement for some years past, one of whom is designated +the Company's Chaplain, and is allowed 100l. per annum; the Roman +Catholic bishop, too, receives his 100l., and doubtless understands, +without any inspiration, the Company's policy in granting the annuity. +The gentleman who conducts the academy has also 100l. a-year; thus we +have 300l., forming the sum total of the "great expenses" the Company +are at. It is quite true there are thirteen schools at Red River; +there are also eighteen windmills, and the Company furnishes just as +much wind for the mills as funds for the support of the schools or +teachers. Other teachers than those above specified I have neither +seen nor heard of. + +Some years ago five Missionaries were sent out to the Hudson's Bay +territory by the Wesleyan Missionary Society. After having laboured +for some time in the territory, by a decision of the Council the rank +of commissioned gentleman, together with the usual allowances attached +to that rank, was conferred on them. + +The Missionaries had every reason to be grateful for these acts of +kindness, and they both felt and expressed their gratitude. Their +object, however, in coming to the country was to serve God, not the +Hudson's Bay Company; and they proceeded to discharge their duty in +the manner their conscience approved, instructing and enlightening +the natives with the zeal and perseverance for which their sect is +so eminently distinguished. The good fruits were soon apparent; in +some parts of the country successful attempts were made to collect +the natives: they were taught to cultivate the soil, to husband +their produce, so as to render them less dependent on fortuitous +circumstances for a living; they were taught to read and write, and to +worship God "in spirit and in truth," and numbers "were daily added +to the Church;" when, lo! it was discovered that the time devoted +to religious exercises, and other duties arising out of the altered +circumstances of the converts, was so much time lost to the fur-hunt; +and from the moment this discovery was made, no further encouragement +was given to the innovators. Their labours were strictly confined to +the stations they originally occupied, and every obstacle was thrown +in the way of extending their missions. Even after some of them +had travelled into the remotest parts, and opened up an amicable +intercourse with the natives, they were told that collecting the +Indians into villages was a measure not to be thought of, as the +habitual indolence of the natives precluded the idea of their being +induced to cultivate the soil; that even if they were so inclined, the +country presented few localities fit for the purpose, &c. + +Notwithstanding the high authority whence these allegations emanated, +I think I can show the reader that they are in a great measure without +foundation. + +Here (in lat. 61 deg. north)[2] we raise crops of barley and potatoes--the +former in abundance every year,--the latter, however, are sometimes +cut off by the frosts; but this is no more than happens in Canada, +and many parts of the United States. The fact is, that there are many +favourable situations for agriculture to be found in every district of +the Company's territories, except perhaps one or two on the shores of +Hudson's Bay. The banks of the Athabasca, Peace, Slave, and McKenzie +rivers present many localities fit for farming operations; and in the +more southern districts they are, of course, far more frequent. + +[Footnote 2: On the banks of the McKenzie River.] + +Had the Protestant ministers been allowed a free scope, and the +encouragement they at first received been continued, they would ere +now have had Missions established in many districts; and there can +hardly be a doubt that they would have succeeded here, as elsewhere, +in overcoming the natural sloth of the natives. Their good intentions, +however, have been frustrated, and they have now the additional +mortification of finding themselves supplanted by Romish priests, who, +no later than last year, were allowed a free passage in the Company's +craft, even to a district where a Protestant Missionary had been +settled for several years previously, and had made considerable +progress in converting the natives. Not only was he allowed a passage +to the district, but he was lodged and entertained in the Company's +establishment. + +The consequences of this strange procedure are obvious: the poor +ignorant natives, hearing such conflicting doctrines, are at a loss +what to think or what to believe; and, naturally enough, conclude that +both are alike impostors, and therefore in many cases decline their +instructions. It must be acknowledged, however, that the Romish priest +is often more successful than the Protestant missionary, and that +for obvious reasons. With the former, the Indian needs only profess +a desire to become a Christian, and he is forthwith baptized; whereas +with the latter, a probationary course--a trial of the proselyte's +sincerity--is deemed indispensable. The peculiar dress, moreover, +of the Romish ministers, and their imposing ritual, make a great +impression on the senses of a barbarous people. + +"_He_ indeed," say the Indians, when speaking of the priest, "he +indeed looks like a great 'man of medicine;' but these others are just +like our traders; we can see no difference." + +The fact, too, need not be disguised, that we ourselves find the +priests far more accommodating than these meddling parsons. The +priests, for instance, allow us to amuse ourselves in any manner we +think fit, week-day or Sunday; and far from finding fault, ten to +one if they don't join in the sport; the Protestant minister, on +the contrary, never allows a violation of the sacred day to pass +unnoticed, nor fails to warn the delinquent of the consequences. +The priest connives at the Indian's hunting on Sunday--the minister +strictly forbids it: the priests are single--the ministers are +generally married, and their maintenance of course involves a far +heavier expense. Considering these things, no reasonable person can +surely find fault with us for preferring those who allow us to put +what construction we please on the moral law, and at the same time +oppose no obstacles to the advancement of our temporal interests. + +And here I cannot but express my regret that our Protestant churches +should have so long neglected the cultivation of a field that promised +such rich harvests as the interior of America. The superstitions +of the aborigines scattered through the Hudson's Bay Company's +territories are so gross, and so inconsistent with unsophisticated +common sense; and their prejudices in favour of them have been so much +shaken by their intercourse with the gentlemen of the trading posts +and the other Europeans, whom they are accustomed to look up to as +beings of a superior race, that there could be but little difficulty +in removing what _remains_ of these prejudices; and thus one of the +greatest obstacles to the success of a Missionary in other parts of +the heathen world, can scarcely be said to exist among them. + +The Church of England, it is true, has done a little, but she might +have done more--much more. Had the Missionaries at Red River exerted +themselves, from the time of their first arrival in the country, in +educating _natives_ as Missionaries, and sent them forth to preach +the Word, the pure doctrines of Christianity would, ere now, have been +widely disseminated through the land. But nothing of this kind has +been attempted: nor could it be attempted--now that I think of it--the +laying on of "the hands of a Bishop" being indispensable. + +As to the diseased and infirm being frequently left at our posts in +winter, all I can say is, that I have never seen any such at any +of the posts I wintered at, or at any of the posts I visited; nor +is it likely that, when we ourselves depend on the natives for a +considerable part of our subsistence, we can do much to support them. +We support neither old nor young, diseased nor infirm--that is the +truth. + +In the work above quoted I find the following paragraph relating to +the North-West Company. + +"Although the rivalry of the North-West Company had the effect of +inspiriting and extending the trade; it was carried by them in many +respects beyond the legitimate limits, not scrupling at open violence +and bloodshed, in which Europeans and natives were alike sufferers." + +The controversy between those rival companies has long since been +forgotten; but the subject being again obtruded on the public notice, +evidently in the spirit of prejudice, there can be nothing improper, I +presume, in representing matters in their true and proper light. Many +of the individuals thus calumniated are still alive and settled in the +civilized world, where they are esteemed for qualities diametrically +opposite to those ascribed to them by their slanderer. + +It is well known that the chief advantages the Hudson's Bay Company +now possess, they owe to the adventurous North-West traders; by these +traders the whole interior of the savage wilds was first explored; by +them the water communications were first discovered and opened up +to commercial enterprise; by them the first trading posts were +established in the interior; by them the natives were first reconciled +to the whites; and by them the trade was first reduced to the regular +system which the Hudson's Bay Company still follows. When all this +had been done by the North-West Company, and they had begun to +reap the reward of their toils, and hardships, and dangers, and +expenditure--then did the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, led on by +a British peer, step forward and claim, as British subjects, an equal +right to share the trade. + +Their _noble_ leader appeared first in Montreal in the guise of a +traveller, where he was received by the North-Westers with open arms, +was kindly and hospitably entertained by them, his minutest inquiries +regarding their system of trade were candidly and freely answered; +and the information thus obtained in the character of a traveller, +a guest, and a friend, he forthwith proceeded to use to effect +their ruin. Had, however, the North-West Company continued true to +themselves, all his arts and attempts would have failed. Had not +dissension arisen in the ranks, it is clear that _they_--not +the Hudson's Bay Company--would have granted the capitulation. +Unfortunately for themselves, however, the partners in the interior, +seeing the contest continue so long, and the expenses swallow up all +the profits, despaired of the success that was almost within their +grasp, and commencing a correspondence among themselves, finally +determined on opening a negotiation with their rivals. Two of their +number were accordingly sent home, invested with full powers to +act for the general interest. Those gentlemen arrived just as the +Directors of the North-West Company in London were about to conclude +a most advantageous treaty--a few days more, and the articles had been +ratified by the signatures of both parties. At this conjuncture the +Delegates arrived, and instead of first communicating with their own +Directors, went straight to the Hudson's Bay House, and presented +their credentials. The Hudson's Bay Company saw their advantage, and +instead of receiving, now dictated the terms; and thus the name of the +North-West Company was merged in that of its rival, and the Canadian +people were deprived of all interest in that trade which owed its +origin to the courage and enterprise of their forefathers. + +Such were the relative circumstances of the Hudson's Bay and +North-West Companies. From 1674 to 1813 the Hudson's Bay Company +slumbered at its posts along the shores of Hudson's Bay, never +attempting to penetrate beyond the banks of the Saskatchewan, until +the North-Westers had led and cleared the way; and in this manner +began their rivalry. That collisions should follow, marked by violence +and outrage, need not be wondered at. But violence and outrage were +not confined to one side; both parties exceeded the limits prescribed +by law. Yet while stern justice alike condemns both, which is the more +guilty party? or which has the greater claims on our sympathy? + +As to the North-West Company being guilty of the blood of innocent +Indians,--the charge is as false as it is invidious. When the blood +of their servants was shed without cause or provocation, as frequently +happened when they first encountered the fierce savage, they punished +the aggressors as the law of God allows, demanding "blood for blood." +But while the author (or rather his informant, whose _ribbon_ I +can plainly distinguish, although he strikes in the dark) so freely +censures the North-West Company for avenging the murder of their +people, does he mean to insinuate that nothing of the kind is done +under the _humane_ and _gentle_ rule of the Hudson's Bay Company? +What became of the Hannah Bay murderers? They were conveyed to Moose +Factory, bound hand and foot, and there shot down by the orders of +the Chief Factor. Did the murders committed by the natives at New +Caledonia, Thompson's River, and the Columbia, pass unavenged? No! the +penalty was fully paid in blood for blood. + +But since the author's informant seems disposed to "rake up the +smouldering embers" of days bygone, I shall take the liberty of +telling him of a tragedy that was enacted at the ancient date of +1836-7. In that winter, a party of men, led by two clerks, was sent +to look for some horses that were grazing at a considerable distance +from the post. As they approached the spot they perceived a band of +Assineboine Indians, eight in number (if I remember aright), on an +adjacent hill, who immediately joined them, and, delivering up their +arms, encamped with them for the night. Next morning a _court martial_ +was held by the two clerks and some of the men, to determine the +punishment due to the Indians for having been found near the company's +horses, with the _supposed_ intention of carrying them off. What was +the decision of this mock court martial? I shudder to relate, that the +whole band, after having given up their arms, and partaken of their +hospitality, were condemned to death, and the sentence carried into +execution on the spot,--all were butchered in cold blood! + +With the exception of the massacre of the Indians in McKenzie's River +district in 1835, no such deed of blood had been heard of in the +country. Yet our author's _impartial_ informant, perfectly acquainted +as he was with all the circumstances of the case, and ready enough +as he is to trumpet to the world the alleged crimes of the North-West +Company, takes no notice of it! It may be said that the Company are +not answerable for crimes committed by their servants without their +knowledge. True; but when they are made fully acquainted with those +misdeeds, and allow the perpetrators to escape with impunity, the +guilt is transferred to their own head; "invitat culpam qui peccatum +praeterit." The proceedings of this court-martial were reported at +head-quarters, and the punishment awarded to these murderers was--a +reprimand! After this, what protection, or generosity, or justice, can +the Indians he said to receive from the Hudson's Bay Company? + +The Indians to this day talk of their Northwest "fathers" with regret. +"Our old traders, our fathers, did not serve us so," is a remark +I have frequently heard in every part of the country where the +North-West Company had established posts. Had their rule been +distinguished by oppression or injustice, the natives would rather +have expressed their satisfaction at its suppression; had it been +tyrannical or oppressive, it would not have been long tolerated. The +natives in those times were numerous and warlike; the trading-posts +were isolated and far apart; and in the summer season, when the +managers proceeded to the depots, with the greater part of their +people, were entirely at the mercy of the natives, who would not have +failed to take advantage of such opportunities to avenge their wrongs, +had they suffered any. The posts, in fact, were left entirely to their +protection, and depended on them for support during the absence of the +traders, who, on their return in autumn, found themselves surrounded +by hundreds of rejoicing Indians, greeting their "fathers" with every +manifestation of delight;--he who had not a gun to fire strained his +lungs with shouting. + +The native population has decreased at an extraordinary rate since +those times. I do not mean to affirm that this decrease arises from +the Hudson's Bay Company's treatment of them; but, from whatever cause +arising, it is quite certain they have greatly decreased. Neither can +it be denied, that the natives are no longer the manly, independent +race they formerly were. On the contrary, we now find them gloomy and +dispirited, unhappy and discontented. + +As to our vaunted "generosity" to the natives, I am at a loss to know +in what it consists. When a band of Indians arrive at a trading post, +each individual is presented with a few inches of tobacco; here (at +Fort Simpson) in winter we add a fish to each. After their furs are +traded, a few flints, awls, and hooks, and a trifle of ammunition is +given them, in proportion to their hunts, and then--"Va-t-en." This is +about the average amount of "generosity" they receive throughout the +country; varied, however, by the differences of disposition observable +in the Hudson's Bay Company's traders, as among all other mortals. +Some of us would even withhold the awls and hooks, if we could; +others, at the risk of being "hauled up" for extravagance, would add +another hook to the number. + +Were the Company's standing rules and regulations acted upon, we might +perhaps have some title to the generosity we boast of. In these rules +we are directed to supply _poor_ Indians with ammunition and fishing +tackle, gratis. This looks very well on paper; but are we allowed the +means of bestowing these gratuities? Certainly not.[3] Our outfits, +in many cases, are barely sufficient to meet the exigencies of the +trade; they are continually reduced in proportion to the decrease in +the returns; and the strictest economy is not only recommended, but +enforced. On the due fulfilment of these commands our prospects in +the service depend; and few indeed will think of violating them, or of +sacrificing their own interests to benefit Indians. I repeat that, far +from having it in our power to bestow anything gratuitously, we are +happy when allowed sufficient means to barter for the furs the Indians +bring us. + +[Footnote 3: When the Israelites were ordered to provide straw for +their bricks, the material _could_ be procured in Egypt, although at +the expense of great additional toil;--not so the supplies for the +Indian trade; in the event of a deficiency, neither money nor labour +can procure them.] + +The Company also make it appear by their standing rules, that we are +directed to instruct the children, to teach the servants, &c.; but +where are the means of doing so? A few books, I have been told, were +sent out for this purpose, after the coalition; what became of them +I know not. I never saw any. The history of commercial rule is well +known to the world; the object of that rule, wherever established, or +by whomsoever exercised, is gain. In our intercourse with the natives +of America no other object is discernible, no other object is thought +of, no other object is allowed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + ARRIVAL OF MR. LEFROY--VOYAGE TO THE LOWER POSTS OF THE + MACKENZIE--AVALANCHE--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--VOYAGE + TO PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ARBITRARY AND UNJUST CONDUCT OF THE + GOVERNOR--DESPOTISM--MY REPLY TO THE GOVERNOR. + + +In the early part of this winter several Indians came in, complaining +that they were starving for want of food; and their emaciated forms +proved that they did not complain without cause. Our means, however, +were too limited to afford them any effectual relief. We were glad to +learn afterwards, that although many suffered, none died from actual +want; and the rabbits soon afterwards appearing in greater numbers +than had been seen for years past, relief was obtained. + +Towards the latter end of March, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr. +Lefroy. This gentleman seems equal to all the hardships and privations +of a voyageur's life, having performed the journey from Athabasca +hither, a distance of at least six hundred miles, on snow-shoes, +without appearing to have suffered any inconvenience from it; thus +proving himself the ablest _mangeur de lard_ we have had in the +country for a number of years: there are many of our old winterers +who would have been glad to excuse themselves if required to undertake +such a journey. + +The winter passed without any remarkable occurrence; and on the +breaking up of the river, I set off for the lower posts, on the 23d +of May, accompanied by Mr. Lefroy, whose zeal for scientific discovery +neither cold, nor hunger, nor fatigue, seems to depress. We arrived +at Fort Norman on the 27th of May; and after a few hours' delay, +embarked, proceeding down stream, night and day. + +We reached Fort Good Hope on the 29th, late in the evening; but +evening, morning, midnight, and noon-day, are much the same here: I +wrote at midnight by the clear light of heaven. The scientific reader +need not be informed, that within the arctic circle the sun is but a +very short time beneath the horizon, during the summer solstice. The +people of Fort Good Hope see him rising and setting behind the same +hill; and in clear weather his rays shed a light above the horizon +even after he is set; while during the winter solstice the same hill +nearly conceals him from view. Yet the gentleman in charge of this +post has passed two years without an inch of candle to light himself +to bed; and his predecessor did the same; so that he has no reason to +complain. + +On our way down we observed a land-slip, or avalanche of earth, that +had just tumbled into the river. Mr. Lefroy examined the bank whence +it had been detached, and found, by measurement, that the frozen +ground was forty-six feet in depth! + +Our short sojourn at Fort Good Hope was rendered very unpleasant by +the dismal weather; it continued snowing the whole time we remained. +The storm abating, we embarked at an early hour, on the 31st of May, +and had not proceeded above a few leagues, when a fair breeze sprang +up, greatly to the satisfaction of all, but especially of the poor +fellows whose toil it relieved. It continued increasing; reef after +reef was taken in, till our sheet was finally reduced to a few feet +in depth; yet so furious was the gale that we ascended the strongest +current with nearly the same velocity we had descended; while the +snow fell so thick, and the spray from the river was driven about +so violently by the wind, that we could scarce see our way, and only +escaped being dashed against the beach by keeping in the centre of the +stream. It was also extremely cold; so that our situation in an open +boat was not the most enviable. + +We arrived at Fort Norman on the 2d of June, about five, A.M., +and remained until eleven, A.M., when we embarked, the gale still +continuing with unabated violence. Immediately after leaving the Fort +the gale carried away our mast; fortunate it was for us that it gave +way, else the boat must have capsized. We soon got another mast from +the Fort, and sped on our way night and day, if it can be said there +is any night here, when the light is so powerful as to throw the stars +into the shade. Without experiencing much change in wind or weather, +we arrived at Fort Simpson on the 8th of June; having thus performed +a voyage of about 1,400 miles (going and coming) in eleven days, +including stoppages. I found Mr. Lewis so far recovered from the +effects of his wound as to be able to take the same active part in the +management of affairs as formerly. + +The returns from the different posts being now received, we found them +to amount to upwards of 15,000l. in value, according to the tariff +of last year. Everything being ready for our departure, we left +Fort Simpson on the 15th of June, Mr. Lefroy embarking with us. +We proceeded to Great Slave Lake without interruption, the weather +extremely fine. Within a day's rowing of Fort Resolution we +encountered a field of ice that arrested our progress, till a change +of wind carried it out to sea. + +The moment a passage opened we observed a large canoe making for our +encampment. It proved to be Mr. Lefroy's, which he had left with the +most of his people at Athabasca. Mr. Lefroy embarked in his own +craft, and we proceeded to Fort Resolution in company; and as he had +determined on following a different route to Athabasca, we parted +here, most probably never to meet again in this life. Few gentlemen +ever visited this country who acquired so general esteem as Mr. +Lefroy; his gentlemanly bearing and affable manners endeared him to +us all. We arrived at Athabasca on the 5th of July, and at Portage La +Loche on the 25th, where we found an increased number of half-breeds +waiting our arrival. + +The brigade from York Factory arrived with the outfit on the 2d of +August, and we exchanged cargoes with the utmost expedition, they +receiving the returns of the district, and we the outfit brought +by them. By this conveyance I received letters from the Governor, +acquainting me "that another gentleman was appointed to the charge +of McKenzie's River District, and that he (the Governor) could +not conceive on what grounds I fancied myself to be the person so +appointed, as he was certain I could not have arrived at such a +conclusion from perusing the instructions I had received from him last +year!" Until now I thought I understood the English language as well +as most people; but the Governor makes it appear plainly enough that I +ought still to confine myself to the old Celtic. + +The instructions above referred to being given in the foregoing pages, +I shall leave the reader to form his own opinion of one who, in +the high and honourable position of a Governor, could treat so +ungenerously one whom he admitted to be a faithful and meritorious +servant, and whom he had acknowledged to be deserving of preferment: +and that not on the present only, but on several former occasions. + +This last insult I consider the climax to the wrongs I have so long +suffered. First I am appointed in the usual terms to the charge of a +district. I am allowed to continue in that opinion for a twelvemonth; +I enter into correspondence with the gentlemen of the district as +their future superintendent, and make my arrangements with them as +such; and, _au bout du compte_, am ordered back to the same district +to mix with the crowd, and submit to another master. I leave it to +the reader to judge whether such a Governor could possibly have the +interests of the Company at heart; even supposing for a moment there +were no _injustice_ in the case; I leave it to him to consider what +effect a conduct and measures so vacillating, unsteady and arbitrary, +are likely to have on the service and interests of the Company. + +This last act of the Governor made me completely disgusted with a +service where such acts could be tolerated. In no colony subject to +the British Crown is there to be found an authority so despotic as is +at this day exercised in the mercantile Colony of Rupert's Land; an +authority combining the despotism of military rule with the strict +surveillance and mean parsimony of the avaricious trader. From +Labrador to Nootka Sound the unchecked, uncontrolled will of a single +individual gives law to the land. As to the nominal Council which is +yearly convoked for form's sake, the few individuals who compose it +know better than to offer advice where none would be accepted; they +know full well that the Governor has already determined on his own +measures before one of them appears in his presence. Their assent is +all that is expected of them, and that they never hesitate to give. +Many years pass without such a thing as a legally constituted Council +being held. A legal Council ought to consist of seven members besides +the Governor; three chief factors and four chief traders. The Council, +however, seldom consists of more than five members and the Governor. + +Some years ago, I happened to be at an establishment where a "Council" +was about to be held. On inquiring of his Excellency's Secretary what +subject of moment he thought would first engage their attention-- + +"Engage their attention!" he replied; "bless your heart, man! the +minutes of Council were all drawn out before we arrived here; I have +them in my pocket." + +Clothed with a power so unlimited, it is not to be wondered at that a +man who rose from a humble situation should in the end forget what +he was and play the tyrant. Let others, if they will, submit to be so +ruled with a rod of iron. I at least shall not. + +In reply to his favour, I addressed the following letter to his +Excellency, a transcript of which I transmitted to the Committee. + +"Portage La Loche, "_August_ 3, 1844. + +"To SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, Governor of Rupert's Land:-- + +"SIR--I have the honour to acknowledge your several favours from +Lachine and Red River, and am mortified to learn by them you should +think me so stupid as not to understand your letters on the subject of +my appointment to the charge of the district; your language being so +clear, in fact, as to admit of no other construction than the one I +put upon it. By referring to the minutes of Council for 1843, I find +myself appointed to Fort Good Hope for that year; but you wrote me +subsequently to the breaking up of the Council, and used these words: +'That is now the finest field we have for the extension of trade, +and I count much on your activity for promoting our views in that +quarter. But while directing your attention to the extension of _your +district_, you must also use your best endeavours to curtail the +indents.' + +"Your letter to Mr. C.F. Lewis states, in nearly these words, that I +'am appointed to succeed him;' and you beg of him 'to deliver into my +hands all the documents that refer to the affairs of the district.' +Mr. Lewis understood your letters in the same sense as myself, and +so did every other person who perused them. What your object may +have been in altering this arrangement afterwards, is best known +to yourself; and whether such conduct can be reconciled with the +principles of honour and integrity which you so strongly recommend in +others, and which are so necessary to the well-being of society, is +a question which I shall leave for the present to your own decision; +while I cannot avoid remarking, that the treatment I have experienced +from you on this and on many other occasions, is as unworthy of +yourself and as unworthy of the high station you fill, as I am +undeserving of it. + +"When in 1837, I was congratulated by every member of Council then +present at Norway House on the prospect of my immediate promotion, +(having all voted for me,) your authority was interposed, and I was, +as a matter of course, rejected. You were then candid enough to tell +me that I should not have your interest until the two candidates you +then had in view were provided for, and that it would then be my turn. +With this assurance from you I cheerfully prepared for my _exile_ to +_Ungava_. _My turn_ only came, however, after _seven_ other promotions +had been made, and I found myself the last on the list of three +gentlemen who were promoted at the same time. + +"You are pleased to jest with the hardships I experienced while +battling the watch with opposition in the Montreal department, and +the privations I afterwards endured in New Caledonia. Surely, Sir, you +ought to have considered it sufficient to have made me your dupe, and +not add insult to oppression. While in the Montreal department I have +your handwriting to show your approval of my 'meritorious conduct,' +the course I was pursuing being 'the direct road to preferment;' and +your intention, even then, 'to recommend me to the favourable notice +of the Governor and Committee;'--promises in which I placed implicit +confidence at the time, being as yet a stranger to the ways of the +world.--The result of these promises, however, was that the moment +opposition had ceased, I was ordered to resign my situation to +another, and march to enjoy the 'delectable scenery' of New Caledonia; +from thence you sent me to Ungava, where you say you are not aware I +experienced any particular hardship or privation. + +"You are aware of the circumstances in which I found myself when I +arrived there: that consideration was not allowed to interpose between +me and my duty, however; and I accordingly traversed that desolate +country in the depth of winter,--a journey that nearly cost myself +and my companions our lives. I then continued to explore the country +during the entire period of my command, and finally succeeded in +discovering a practicable communication with Esquimaux Bay, and in +determining the question so long involved in uncertainty as to the +riches the interior possessed, and by so doing saved an enormous +expense to the concern. The Hon. Committee are aware of my exertions +in that quarter, themselves, as I had the honour of being in direct +communication with them while there. + + "I have the honour, &c. + (Signed) "JOHN MCLEAN." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + SITUATION OF FORT SIMPSON--CLIMATE--THE LIARD--EFFECTS OF + THE SPRING FLOODS--TRIBES INHABITING MACKENZIE'S + RIVER DISTRICT--PECULIARITIES--DISTRESS THROUGH + FAMINE--CANNIBALISM--ANECDOTE--FORT GOOD HOPE SAVED BY THE + INTREPIDITY OF M. DECHAMBAULT--DISCOVERIES OF MR. CAMPBELL. + + +Mr. Lewis embarked for York Factory on the 4th of August. I set out on +my return on the 6th, and arrived at Fort Simpson on the 22d. Having +prepared and sent off the outfit for the different posts with all +possible expedition, I found myself afterwards at leisure to note down +whatever I thought worthy of being recorded with reference to this +section of the country. + +There are seven posts in this district; three on the River Liard and +its tributaries; three on the banks of McKenzie's River, and one +on Peel's River. About two degrees to the north of Good Hope, Fort +Simpson, the depot of the district, is situated at the confluence of +the Liard and McKenzie, in lat. 61 deg. north. Heat and cold are here +felt in the extremes; the thermometer frequently falls to 50 deg. minus in +winter, and rises sometimes to 100 deg. in the shade in summer. The River +Liard has its source in the south among the Rocky Mountains: its +current is remarkably strong; and in the early part of summer, when +swollen by the melting of the snow, it rushes down in a foaming +torrent, and pours into the McKenzie, still covered with solid ice, +when a scene ensues terrific and grand:--the ice, resisting for some +time the force of the flood, ultimately gives way with the noise of +thunder, and clashing, roaring and tumbling, it rolls furiously along +until it accumulates to such an extent as to dam the river across. +This again presents, for a time, a solid barrier to the flood, which +is stopped in its course; it then rises sometimes to the height of +thirty and forty feet, overflowing the adjacent country for miles, +and levelling the largest trees with the ground. The effects of this +frightful conflict are visible in all the lower grounds along the +river. The trading posts are situated on the higher grounds, yet they +are not secure from danger. Fort Good Hope was swept clean away some +years ago, and its inmates only saved themselves by getting into a +boat that happened fortunately to be at hand. The McKenzie opens about +the end of May, and is ice-bound in November. + +The tribes who inhabit the banks of the McKenzie, and the interior +parts of the district, are members of the powerful and numerous +Chippewayan family, and are known by the names of Slaves, Dogribs, +Rabbitskins, and Gens des Montagnes. The Loucheux, or Squint-Eyes, +frequent the post on Peel's River, and speak a different language; +their hunting-grounds are within the Russian boundary, and are +supposed to be rich in fur-bearing animals. The Loucheux have no +affinity with the Chippewayan tribes, nor with their neighbours, the +Esquimaux, with whom, however, they maintain constant intercourse, +though not always of the most friendly kind, violent quarrels +frequently occurring between them. The various dialects spoken by +the other tribes are intelligible to all; in manners, customs, and +personal appearance, there is also the closest similarity. + +In one point, however, these tribes differ, not only from the parent +tribe, but from all the other tribes of America;--they treat their +women with the utmost kindness, the men performing all the drudgery +that usually falls to the women. Here the men are the hewers of +wood and drawers of water; they even clear away the snow for the +encampment; and, in short, perform every laborious service. This is +indeed passing strange;--the Chippewayans, and all other Indians, +treat their women with harshness and cruelty; while the women on the +banks of the McKenzie--Scottice--"wear the breeks!" The Rabbitskins +and Slaves are in truth a mild, harmless, and even a timid race; could +it be this softness of disposition that induced the weaker sex first +to dispute, and finally to assume the supremacy?--or what cause can be +assigned for a trait so peculiar in this remotely situated portion of +the Indian race? + +These tribes clothe themselves with the skins of rabbits, and feed on +their flesh; when the rabbits fail, they are reduced to the greatest +distress both for food and raiment. I saw a child that remained naked +for several days after its birth, its parents having devoured every +inch of their miserable dress that could be spared from their bodies: +it was at last swaddled in crow's skins! + +These two tribes generally live near the banks of the great rivers, +and seem disposed to pass their pilgrimage on earth with as little +toil, and as little regard to comfort, as any people in being. They +pass summer and winter in the open air; they huddle together in an +encampment, without any other shelter from the inclemency of the +weather than what is afforded by the spreading branches of some +friendly pine, and use no more fire than what is barely sufficient to +keep them from freezing. Their wants are few, and easily provided +for; when they have killed a few deer to afford them sinews for making +rabbit-snares, they may be said to be independent for the remainder of +the season. Their work consists in setting those snares, carrying home +the game caught in them, eating them when cooked, and then lying down +to sleep. A taste, however, for articles of European manufacture is +gaining ground among them, and to obtain those articles a more active +life is necessary, so that some tolerable fur-hunters are now to be +found among them. + +The Dogribs occupy the barren grounds that are around Great Bear Lake, +and extend to the Copper-mine River. That part of the country abounds +in rein-deer, whose skin and flesh afford food and raiment to the +natives. They are a strong, athletic, well-formed race of Indians, and +are considered more warlike than their neighbours, who evidently dread +them. + +None of the Indians who frequent the posts on McKenzie's River have +hereditary chiefs; the dignity is conferred by the gentlemen in charge +of posts on the best hunters. On these occasions a suit of clothes +is bestowed, the most valued article of which is a coat of coarse red +cloth, decorated with lace; and, as the reward of extraordinary merit, +a felt hat is added, ornamented in the same manner, with a feather +stuck in the side of it. Thus equipped, the new-made chief sallies +forth to receive the gratulations of his admiring friends and +relatives, among whom the coat is ultimately divided, and probably +finishes its course in the shape of a tobacco-pouch. In course of +time, the individuals thus distinguished obtain some weight in the +councils of their people, but their influence is very limited; the +whole of the Chippewayan tribes seem averse to superior rule. + +Like the Esquimaux and Carriers, they seem to have had no idea of +religion prior to the settlement of Europeans among them; all the +terms they at present use in reference to the subject seem of recent +origin, and invented by the interpreters. They name the Deity, "Ya +ga ta-that-hee-hee,"--"The Man who reclines on the sky;" angels are +called "the birds of the Deity,"--"ya gat he-be e Yadze;" the devil, +"Ha is linee," or, "the sorcerer." + +The Slaves and Rabbitskins have also their magicians, whom alone they +fear and reverence. Polygamy is not common, yet there are instances of +one man having two _female masters_. In times of famine the cravings +of hunger often drive these poor Indians to desperation, when the +feelings of humanity and of nature seem utterly eradicated. + +During the fearful distress of the two past years, a band of Slaves +came to Fort Simpson in a condition not to be described. Many of them +had perished by the way; but the history of one family is the most +shocking I ever heard. The husband first destroyed the wife, and +packed her up as provision for the journey. The supply proving +insufficient, one of the children was next sacrificed. The cannibal +was finally left by the party he accompanied with only one child +remaining--a boy of seven or eight years of age. Mr. Lewis immediately +despatched two men with some pemmican, to meet him; the aid came too +late,--they found the monster roasting a part of his last child at the +fire. Horrified at the sight, they uttered not a word, but threw the +provisions into the encampment, and retreated as fast as they could. A +few days afterwards this brute arrived strong and hearty, and appeared +as unconcerned as if all had gone on well with him and his family. +Cannibalism is more frequently known among the Slaves and Rabbitskins +than any other of the kindred tribes; and it is said that women are +generally the perpetrators of the crime; it is also said, that when +once they have tasted of this unhallowed food they prefer it to every +other. + +All the Chippewayan tribes dispose of their dead by placing them in +tombs made of wood, and sufficiently strong to resist the attacks of +wild beasts. The body is laid in the tomb at full length, without any +particular direction being observed as to the head or feet. Neither +they, nor any other Indians I am acquainted with, place their dead in +a sitting posture. + +It is affirmed by some writers that the Indians have a tradition among +them of the migration of their progenitors from east to west. I +have had every opportunity of investigating the question, and able +interpreters wherever I wintered; but I never could learn that any +such tradition existed. Even in their tales and legends there is never +any reference to a distant land; when questioned in regard to this, +their invariable answer is, "Our fathers and our fathers' fathers have +hunted on these lands ever since the flood, and we never heard of any +other country till the whites came among us." These tribes have +the same tradition in regard to the flood, that I heard among the +Algonquins at the gates of Montreal, some trifling incidents excepted. + +Unlike most other Indians, the Slaves have no fixed bounds to their +hunting-grounds, but roam at large, and kill whatever game comes in +their way, without fear of their neighbours. The hunter who first +finds a beaver-lodge claims it as his property, but his claim is not +always respected. + +Besides the Indians enumerated in the preceding pages, a number of +stragglers, but little known to us, occasionally resort to the post. +A band of these--nine in number--made their appearance at Fort Norman +this summer; and, after trading their furs, set out for Fort Good +Hope, with the avowed intention of plundering the establishment, and +carrying off all the women they could find. On arriving at the post +they rushed in, their naked bodies blackened and painted after the +manner of warriors bent on shedding blood; each carrying a gun and +dirk in his hands. + +The chief, on being presented with the usual gratuity--a piece of +tobacco, rudely refused it; and commenced a violent harangue against +the whites, charging them with the death of all the Indians who had +perished by hunger during the last three years; and finally challenged +M. Dechambault, the gentleman in charge of the post, to single +combat. M. Dechambault, _dicto citius_, instantly sprung upon him, +and twisting his arm into his long hair, laid him at his feet; and +pointing his dagger at his throat, dared him to utter another word. +So sudden and unexpected was this intrepid act, that the rest of the +party looked on in silent astonishment, without power to assist their +fallen chief, or revenge his disgrace. M. Dechambault was too generous +to strike a prostrate foe, even although a savage, but allowed the +crest-fallen chief to get on his legs again; and thus the affair +ended. + +The Company owe the safety of the establishment to Mr. D.'s +intrepidity: had he hesitated to act at the decisive moment, the game +was up with him, for he had only two lads with him, on whose aid he +could place but little reliance. Mr. D. has been thirty years in the +Company's service, and is still a _clerk_; but he is himself to blame +for his want of promotion, having been so inconsiderate as to allow +himself to be born in Canada, a crime which admits of no expiation. + +This district is at present by far the richest in furs of any in the +country; this is owing partly to the indolence of the natives, and +partly to the circumstance of the beaver in some localities being, +through the barrenness of the surrounding country, inaccessible to the +hunter. When the haunts of the animal become overcrowded, they send +forth colonies to other quarters. + +At the first arrival of the Europeans, large animals, especially +moose and wood rein-deer, were abundant everywhere. In those times the +resources of the district were adequate to the supply of provisions +for every purpose; whereas, of late years, we have been under the +necessity of applying for assistance to other districts. + +A new field has lately been laid open for the extension of the trade +of this district. An enterprising individual--Mr. R. Campbell--having +been for several years employed in exploring the interior, last summer +succeeded in finding his way to the west side of the Rocky Mountain +chain. The defile he followed led him to the banks of a very large +river, on which he embarked with his party of hardy pioneers; and +following its course for several days through a charming country, +rich in game of every description--elk, rein-deer, and beaver, he +eventually fell in with Indians, who received them kindly, although +they had never seen Europeans before. From them he learned that a +party of whites, Russians of course, had ascended the river in the +course of the summer, had quarrelled with the natives, and killed +several of them; and that the whites had returned forthwith to the +coast. These friendly Indians entreated Mr. C. to proceed no farther, +representing that he and his party were sure to fall victims to their +revenge. This, however, could not shake his resolution; he had set out +with the determination of proceeding to the sea at all hazards, and no +prospect of danger could turn him from it; till his party refused to +proceed farther on any conditions, when he was compelled to return. + +The returns of this district have, for years past, averaged 12,000l. +per annum; the outfit, including supplies for officers and servants, +has not exceeded as many hundreds. The affairs of the different posts +are managed by seven or eight clerks and postmasters; and there are +about forty hired servants--Europeans, Canadians, and half-breeds; +Indians are hired for the trip to the portage. The living for some +years past has not been such as Gil Blas describes, as "fit to tickle +the palate of a bishop;" at Fort Simpson we had, for the most part +of the season, fish and potatoes for breakfast, potatoes and fish +for dinner, and cakes made of flour and grease for supper. The fish +procured in this quarter is of a very inferior quality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + MR. MACPHERSON ASSUMES THE COMMAND--I AM APPOINTED TO FORT + LIARD, BUT EXCHANGE FOR GREAT SLAVE LAKE--THE INDIANS--RESOLVE + TO QUIT THE SERVICE--PHENOMENA OF THE LAKE. + + +On the 2d of October Mr. McPherson arrived from Canada, and I +forthwith demitted the charge. I was now appointed to Fort Liard, but +the season being far advanced, it had been found necessary to appoint +another previously, whose arrangements for the season being completed, +it was deemed expedient that I should pass the winter at Great Slave +Lake; and I embarked for that station accordingly on the 4th, and +arrived on the 16th. + +This post formerly belonged to Athabasca, but is now transferred +to McKenzie's River district. The natives consist of Chippewayans, +properly so called, and Yellow Knives, a kindred tribe; the former +inhabit the wooded parts of the country, extending along the northern +and eastern shores of the lake; and the latter, the opposite side +extending towards the Arctic regions, where there is no wood to be +found; it abounds, however, in rein-deer and musk oxen. The Yellow +Knives were at one time a powerful and numerous tribe; but their +number has been greatly diminished by a certain disease that lately +prevailed among them, and proved peculiarly fatal. They also waged +a short but bloody war with the Dogribs, that cost many lives. They +muster at present between sixty and eighty men able to bear arms. + +The Chippewayans in this quarter are a shrewd sensible people, and +evince an eager readiness to imitate the whites. Some years ago a +Methodist Missionary visited Athabasca; and although he remained but +a short time, his instructions seemed to have made a deep impression. +They observe the Sabbath with great strictness, never stirring from +their lodges to hunt, nor even to fetch home the game when killed, +on that day; and they carefully abstain from all the grosser vices +to which they formerly were addicted. What might not be expected of +a people so docile, if they possessed the advantages of regular +instruction! + +Having fortunately a supply of books with me, and other means of +amusement, I found the winter glide away without suffering much +from ennui; my health, however, proved very indifferent; and that +circumstance alone would have been sufficient to induce me to quit +this wretched country, even if my earlier prospects had been realized, +as they have not been. From the accompt current, I find my income +as chief trader for 1841 amounts to no more than 120l.: "Sic vos non +vobis mellificatis apes;" and since things are come to this pass, +it is high time I should endeavour to make honey for myself, in +some other sphere of life. I therefore transmitted my resignation to +head-quarters. + +I cannot close this chapter without mentioning a singular phenomenon +which the lake presents in the winter season. The ice is never less +than five feet in thickness, frequently from eight to nine; yet the +water under this enormous crust not only feels the changes in the +atmosphere, but anticipates them. An approaching change of wind or +weather is known twenty-four hours before it occurs. For instance, +while the weather is perfectly calm, if a storm be at hand, the lake +becomes violently agitated the day before; when calm weather is to +succeed, it is indicated in like manner by the previous stillness of +the lake, even when the gale is still raging in the air. In summer +there is no perceptible current in the lake; in winter, however, a +current always sets in the direction of the wind, and indicates a +change of wind by running in a different direction. These curious +points have been ascertained by the long observation of our fishermen, +who, in the beginning of winter, bore holes in the ice for the purpose +of setting their lines, and visit them every day, both in order to +keep them open, and to take up what fish may be caught. + +In consequence of the frequent shifting of the current, they +experience no little difficulty in adjusting their lines, the current +being occasionally so strong as to raise them to an angle of forty +degrees. Thus, if the lines were too long, and the current not very +strong, they would drag on the bottom; if too short, and the current +strong, they would be driven up upon the ice. The approach of a storm +is indicated, not by any heaving of the ice, but by the strength of +the current, and the roaring of the waves under the ice, which is +distinctly heard at a considerable distance, and is occasionally +increased by the collision of detached masses of broken ice, which, in +the earlier part of the season, have been driven under the main crust. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + REFLECTIONS--PROSPECTS IN THE SERVICE--DECREASE OF THE + GAME--COMPANY'S POLICY IN CONSEQUENCE--APPEAL OF THE + INDIANS--MEANS OF PRESERVING THEM, AND IMPROVING THEIR + CONDITION--ABOLITION OF THE CHARTER--OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. + + +The history of my career may serve as a warning to those who may be +disposed to enter the Hudson's Bay Company's service. They may learn +that, from the moment they embark in the Company's canoes at Lachine, +or in their ships at Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized +man most values on earth. They bid adieu to their family and friends, +probably for ever; for if they should remain long enough to attain the +promotion that allows them the privilege of revisiting their native +land--a period of from twenty to twenty-five years--what changes does +not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? They bid adieu to all +the comforts and conveniences of civilized life, to vegetate at some +desolate, solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, from any other +human habitation, save the wig-wam of the savage; without any other +society than that of their own thoughts, or of the two or three +humble individuals who share their exile. They bid adieu to all +the refinement and cultivation of civilized life, not unfrequently +becoming semi-barbarians,--so altered in habits and sentiments, that +they not only become attached to savage life, but eventually lose all +relish for any other. + +I can give good authority for this. The Governor, writing me last +year regarding some of my acquaintances who had recently retired, +observes--"They are comfortably settled, but apparently at a loss what +to do with themselves; and sigh for the Indian country, the squaws, +and skins, and savages." + +Such are the rewards the Indian trader may expect;--add to these, in +a few cases, the acquisition of some thousands, which, after forty +years' exile, he has neither health, nor strength, nor taste to enjoy. +Few instances have occurred of gentlemen retiring with a competency +under thirty-five or forty years' servitude, even in the best days of +the trade; what period may be required to attain that object in these +times, is a question not easily solved. Up to 1840, one eighty-fifth +share had averaged 400l. per annum; since then, however, the dividends +have been on the decline, nor are they ever likely to reach the same +amount, for several reasons,--the chief of which is the destruction of +the fur-bearing animals. + +In certain parts of the country, it is the Company's policy to destroy +them along the whole frontier; and our general instructions recommend +that every effort be made to lay waste the country, so as to offer no +inducement to petty traders to encroach on the Company's limits. Those +instructions have indeed had the effect of ruining the country, but +not of protecting the Company's domains. Along the Canadian frontier, +the Indians, finding no more game on their own lands, push beyond the +boundary, and not only hunt on the Company's territory, but carry a +supply of goods with them, which they trade with the natives. Their +Honours' fiat has also nearly swept away the fur animals on the west +side of the Rocky Mountains; yet I doubt whether all this precaution +will ensure the integrity of their domains. The Americans have taken +possession of the Columbia, and will speedily multiply and increase: +ere many years their trappers will be found scouring the interior, +from the banks of the Columbia to New Caledonia, and probably +penetrating to the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Should they +do so, that valuable part of the country embraced by the Peace and +McKenzie Rivers would soon be ruined; for the white trapper makes +a clean sweep wherever he goes. Taking all these circumstances +into consideration, I do not see any great probability--to say the +least--that the trade will ever attain the prosperity of days bygone. + +Even in such parts of the country as the Company endeavour to +preserve, both the fur-bearing and larger animals have of late become +so scarce, that some tribes are under the necessity of quitting their +usual hunting-grounds. A certain gentleman, in charge of a district to +which some of those Indians withdrew, on being censured for harbouring +them in his vicinity, writes thus:--"Pray, is it surprising, that poor +Indians, whose lives are in jeopardy, should relish a taste of buffalo +meat? It is not the Chippewayans alone that leave their lands to go +in search of food to preserve their lives; the Strongwood Crees and +Assineboines are all out in the plains, because, as they affirm, their +usual hunting-grounds are so exhausted that they cannot live upon +them. It is no wish of mine that those Indians should visit us--we +have trouble enough with our own,--but to turn a poor Indian out of +doors, who arrives at the Company's establishment nearly dead with +hunger, is what I am not able to do." + +In the work already quoted I find it stated "that the Company have +carefully nursed the various animals, removing their stations from the +various districts where they had become scarce, and taking particular +care to preserve the female while pregnant! instead, therefore, of +being in a state of diminution, as generally supposed, the produce is +increasing throughout their domains." Fudge! It is unnecessary to +say, that if this statement were correct, we should not hear such +distressing accounts of starvation throughout the country. No people +can be more attached to their native soil than the Indians; and it is +only the most pressing necessity that ever compels them to remove. + +In 1842 the Governor and Committee issued positive orders that the +beavers should be preserved, and every effort made to prevent the +Indians from killing them for a period of three years. This was, in a +great measure, "shutting the stable door after the steed was stolen." +The beavers had already been exterminated in many parts of the +country; and even where some were yet to be found, our injunctions to +the natives to preserve them had but little weight. To appease their +hunger they killed whatever game came in their way, and as we were +not permitted to buy the beaver skins, they either converted them into +articles of clothing for themselves or threw them away. Now (1845) the +restriction is removed, and the beavers have sensibly increased; but +mark the result: the natives are not only encouraged but strenuously +urged to hunt, in order that the parties interested may indemnify +themselves for their lost time; and ere three years more shall have +elapsed, the beaver will be found scarcer than ever. + +It is thus evident that whatever steps their Honours may take to +preserve the game, the attainment of that object, in the present +exhausted state of the country, is no longer practicable. + +As to the Company's having ever issued orders, or recommended any +particular measures for the preservation of the larger animals, male +or female, the statement is positively untrue. The minutes of the +Council are considered the statutes of the land, and in them the +provision districts are directed to furnish so many bags of pemmican, +so many bales of dry meat, and so many cwt. of grease, every year; and +no reference whatever is made to restrictions of any kind in killing +the animals. The fact is, the provisions must be forthcoming whatever +be the consequence; our business cannot be carried on without them. + +That the natives wantonly destroy the game in years of deep snow is +true enough; but the snow fell to as great a depth before the advent +of the whites as after, and the Indians were as prone to slaughter the +animals then as now; yet game of every description abounded and +want was unknown. To what cause then are we to ascribe the present +scarcity? There can be but one answer--to the destruction of the +animals which the prosecution of the fur-trade involves. + +As the country becomes impoverished, the Company reduce their outfits +so as to ensure the same amount of profit,--an object utterly beyond +their reach, although economy is pushed to the extreme of parsimony; +and thus, while the game becomes scarcer, and the poor natives require +more ammunition to procure their living, their means of obtaining +it, instead of being increased, are lessened. As an instance of the +effects of this policy, I shall mention what recently occurred in the +Athabasca district. + +Up to 1842 the transport of the outfit required four boats, when it +was reduced to three. The reduction in the article of ammunition was +felt so severely by the Chippewayans, that the poor creatures, in +absolute despair, planned a conspiracy to carry off the gentleman at +the head of affairs, and retain him until the Company should restore +the usual outfit. + +Despair alone could have suggested such an idea to the Chippewayans, +for they have ever been the friends of the white man. Mr. Campbell, +however, who had passed his life among them, conducted himself with so +much firmness and judgment, that, although the natives had assembled +in his hall with the intention of carrying their design into +execution, the affair passed over without any violence being +attempted. + +The general outfit for the whole northern department amounted in 1835, +to 31,000l.; now (1845) it is reduced to 15,000l., of which one-third +at least is absorbed by the stores at Red River settlement, and a +considerable portion of the remainder by the officers and servants of +the Company throughout the country. I do not believe that more than +one half of the outfit goes to the Indians. + +While the resources of the country are thus becoming yearly more and +more exhausted, the question naturally suggests itself, What is to +become of the natives when their lands can no longer furnish the means +of subsistence? This is indeed a serious question, and well worthy of +the earnest attention of the philanthropist. While Britain makes such +strenuous exertions in favour of the sable bondsmen of Africa, and +lavishes her millions to free them from the yoke, can nothing be done +for the once noble, but now degraded, aborigines of America? Are +they to be left to the tender mercies of the trader until famine and +disease sweep them from the earth? People of Britain! the Red Men of +America thus appeal to you;--from the depths of their forest they send +forth their cry-- + + "Brethren! beyond the Great Salt Lake, we, the Red Men of America + salute you:-- + "Brethren! + +"We hear that you are a great and a generous people; that you are as +valiant as generous; and that you freely shed your blood and scatter +your gold in defence of the weak and oppressed; if it be so, you will +open your ears to our plaints. + +"Brethren! Our ancients still remember when the Red Men were numerous +and happy; they remember the time when our lands abounded with game; +when the young men went forth to the chase with glad hearts and +vigorous limbs, and never returned empty; in those days our camps +resounded with mirth and merriment; our youth danced and enjoyed +themselves; they anointed their bodies with fat; the sun never set on +a foodless wigwam, and want was unknown. + +"Brethren! When your kinsmen came first to us with guns, and +ammunition, and other good things the work of your hands, we were glad +and received them joyfully; our lands were then rich, and yielded with +little toil both furs and provisions to exchange for the good things +they brought us. + +"Brethren! Your kinsmen are still amongst us; they still bring us +goods, and now we cannot want them; without guns and ammunition we +must die. Brethren! our fathers were urged by the white men to hunt; +our fathers listened to them; they ranged wood and plain to gratify +their wishes; and now our lands are ruined, our children perish with +hunger. + +"Brethren! We hear that you have another Great Chief who rules over +you, to whom even our great trading Chief must bow; we hear that this +great and good Chief desires the welfare of all his children; we hear +that to him the white man and the red are alike, and, wonderful to +be told! that he asks neither furs nor game in return for his bounty. +Brethren! we feel that we can no longer exist as once we did; we +implore your Great Chief to shield us in our present distress; we +desire to be placed under his immediate care, and to be delivered +from the rule of the trading Chief who only wants our furs, and cares +nothing for our welfare. + +"Brethren! Some of your kinsmen visited us lately; they asked neither +our furs nor our flesh; their sojourn was short; but we could see +they were good men; they advised us for our good, and we listened to +them. Brethren! We humbly beseech your Great Chief that he would send +some of those good men to live amongst us: we desire to be taught +to worship the Great Spirit in the way most pleasing to him: without +teachers among us we cannot learn. We wish to be taught to till the +ground, to sow and plant, and to perform whatever the good white +people counsel us to do to preserve the lives of our children. + +"Brethren! We could say much more, but we have said enough,--we wish +not to weary you. + +"Brethren! We are all the children of the Great Spirit; the red man +and the white man were formed by him. And although we are still in +darkness and misery, we know that all good flows from him. May he turn +your hearts to pity the distress of your Red Brethren! Thus have we +spoken to you." + +Such are the groans of the Indians. Would to Heaven they were heard by +my countrymen as I have heard them! Would to Heaven that the misery +I have witnessed were seen by them! The poor Indians then would +not appeal to them in vain. I can scarcely hope that the voice of a +humble, unknown individual, can reach the ears, or make any impression +on the minds of those who have the supreme rule in Britain; but if +there are there men of rank, and fortune, and influence, whose hearts +sympathise with the misery and distress of their fellow-men, whatever +be their country or hue--and, thank God! there are not a few--it is to +those true Britons that I would appeal in behalf of the much-wronged +Indians; the true and rightful owners of the American soil. + +If I am asked what I would suggest as the most effective means for +saving the Indians, I answer: Let the Company's charter be abolished, +and the portals of the territory be thrown wide open to every +individual of capital and enterprise, under certain restrictions; let +the British Government take into its hands the executive power of +the territory, and appoint a governor, judges, and magistrates; let +Missionaries be sent forth among the Indians;--already the whole +of the Chippewayan tribes, from English River to New Caledonia, are +disposed to adopt our religion as well as our customs, so that the +Missionaries' work is half done. Let those of them who manifest +a disposition to steady industry be encouraged to cultivate the +ground: let such as evince any aptitude for mechanics be taught +some handicraft, and congregated in villages, wherever favourable +situations can be found--and there is no want of them. Let schools be +established and supported by Government--not mere _common_ schools, +where reading, writing, arithmetic, and perhaps some of the higher +branches may be taught; but _training_ and _industrial_ schools. Where +the soil or climate is unfit for husbandry, other means of improving +their condition might be resorted to. In the barren grounds, bordering +on the Arctic regions, rein-deer still abound. Why should not the +Indians succeed in domesticating these animals, and rendering them +subservient to their wants, as the Laplanders do? I have been informed +that the Yellow Knives, and some of the other tribes inhabiting these +desert tracts, have the art of taming the fawns, which they take in +great numbers while swimming after their dams, so that they follow +them like dogs till they see fit to kill them. + +Such, in brief, are the measures which, after much experience, and +long and serious consideration, I would venture to propose in behalf +of the Indians; and most happy shall I be if anything I have said +shall have the effect of awakening the public interest to their +condition; or form the groundwork of any plan which, by the blessing +of God, may have the effect of preserving and christianizing the +remnants of these unhappy tribes. + +It may be objected, that the Company have had their charter renewed +for a period of twenty-one years, which does not expire till 1863; +and that Government is bound in honour to sustain the validity of the +deed. But if Government is bound to protect the _interests_ of the +Hudson's Bay Company, is it less bound to protect the _property_ and +_lives_ of their weak, ignorant, and wronged subjects? The validity of +the original charter, the foundation of the present, is, however, more +than questioned: nay, it has been declared by high authority to be +null and void. Admitting its validity, and admitting that the dictates +of honour call for the fulfilment of the charter in guarding the +_profits_ of the few individuals (and their dependants) who assemble +weekly in the old house in Fenchurch Street; are we to turn a deaf ear +to the still small voice of justice and humanity pleading in behalf +of the numerous tribes of perishing Indians? Now, now is the time to +apply the remedy; in 1863, where will the Indian be? + +If it is urged that the measures I propose violate the charter, +deprive the Company of their sovereignty, and reduce them to the +situation of subjects; still, I say, they will have vast advantages +over every other competitor. Their ample resources, their long +exclusive possession of the trade, their experience, the skill and +activity of their agents, will long, perhaps permanently, secure to +them the greatest portion of the trade; while the Indians will be +greatly benefited by a free competition. + +If it be urged that the profits will be so much reduced by +competition, that the trade will not be worth pursuing; I answer, +that competition has certainly a natural tendency to reduce profits; +but experience proves that it has also a tendency to reduce costs. +A monopolist company never goes very economically to work; and, +although much economy, or rather parsimony, of a very questionable and +impolitic kind, has been of late years attempted to be introduced into +the management of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, a free and fair +competition will suggest economy of a sounder kind--the facilitating +of transport, the improvement of portages, and the saving of labour. +Where are the evils which interested alarmists predicted would follow +the modification of the East India Company's charter? + +I have spoken of restrictions to be imposed on those who engage in the +trade. These are;--that no one be allowed to engage in it without +a licence from Government;--that these licensed traders should be +confined to a certain locality, beyond which they should not move, on +any pretext;--and that no spirituous liquors should be sold or given +to the Indians under the severest penalties--such as the forfeiture of +the offender's licence, and of their right to participate in the trade +in all time coming. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + WESLEYAN MISSION--MR. EVANS--ENCOURAGEMENT GIVEN BY THE + COMPANY--MR. EVANS'S EXERTIONS AMONG THE INDIANS--CAUSES OF + THE WITHDRAWAL OF THE COMPANY'S SUPPORT--CALUMNIOUS CHARGES + AGAINST MR. EVANS--MR. E. GOES TO ENGLAND--HIS SUDDEN DEATH. + + +Allusion has been made in a former chapter to the Company's +encouragement of Missionaries; I shall now add a few facts by way of +illustration. + +The Rev. Mr. Evans, a man no less remarkable for genuine piety than +for energy and decision of character, had been present at several of +the annual meetings of the Indians at Manitoulin Island, and had felt +his sympathy deeply awakened by the sight of their degradation and +spiritual destitution. While thus affected, he received an invitation +from the American Episcopal Methodists to go as a Missionary among +the Indians resident in the Union. Feeling, however, that his services +were rather due to his fellow-subjects, he resolved to devote his +labours and his life to the tribes residing in the Hudson's Bay +territory. Having made known his intentions to this Canada Conference, +he, together with Messrs. Thomas Hurlburt, and Peter Jacobs, was +by them appointed a Missionary, and at their charges sent to that +territory. No application was made to the Company, and neither +encouragement nor support was expected from them. Mr. E. and his +brother Missionaries began their operations by raising with their own +hands, unassisted, a house at the Pic; themselves cutting and hauling +the timber on the ice. They obtained, indeed, a temporary lodging at +Fort Michipicoton, but they not only found their own provisions, but +the comforts of the establishment were materially increased by Mr. +E.'s and his interpreter's success in fishing and hunting. Late in the +fall, accompanied by two Indian boys in a small canoe, Mr. E. made +a voyage to Sault Ste. Marie for provisions: and on this expedition, +rendered doubly hazardous by the lateness of the season, and the +inexperience of his companions, he more than once narrowly escaped +being lost. + +Returning next season to Canada for his family, he met Sir G. +Simpson, on Lake Superior. Having learned that the Mission was already +established, and likely to succeed, Sir George received him with +the utmost urbanity, treating him not only with kindness but +with distinction; he expressed the highest satisfaction at the +establishment of the Mission, promised him his utmost support, and at +length proposed that arrangement, which, however apparently auspicious +for the infant Mission, was ultimately found to be very prejudicial to +it. + +The caution of Mr. E. was completely lulled asleep by the apparent +kindness of the Governor, and the hearty warmth with which he seemed +to enter into his views. Sir George proposed that the Missionaries +should hold the same rank and receive the same allowance as the +wintering partners, or commissioned officers; and that canoes, or +other means of conveyance, should be furnished to the Missionaries for +their expeditions; nor did it seem unreasonable to stipulate that in +return for these substantial benefits, they should say or do nothing +prejudicial to the Company's interests either among the natives, or in +their Reports to the Conference in England, to whose jurisdiction the +Mission was transferred. The great evil of this arrangement was, that +the Missionaries, from being the servants of God, accountable to Him +alone, became the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, dependent +on, and amenable to them; and the Committee were of course to be the +sole judges of what was, or was not, prejudicial to their interests. +Still, it is impossible to blame very severely either Mr. E. or +the Conference for accepting offers apparently so advantageous, or +even for consenting to certain restrictions in publishing their +Reports:--with the assistance and co-operation of the Company great +good might be effected;--with the hostility of a Corporation all but +omnipotent within its own domain, and among the Indians, the post +might not be tenable. + +For some time matters went on smoothly: by the indefatigable exertions +of Mr. E. and his fellow-workers, aided also by Mrs. E., who devoted +much of her time and labour to the instruction of the females, a great +reformation was effected in the habits and morals of the Indians. +But Mr. Evans soon perceived that without books printed in the Indian +language, little permanent good would be realized: he therefore wrote +to the London Conference to send him a printing press and types, with +characters of a simple phonetic kind, which he himself had invented, +and of which he gave them a copy. The press was procured without +delay, but was detained in London by the Governor and Committee; and +though they were again and again petitioned to forward it, they flatly +refused. Mr. E., however, was not a man to be turned aside from his +purpose. With his characteristic energy he set to work, and having +invented an alphabet of a more simple kind, he with his penknife cut +the types, and formed the letters from musket bullets; he constructed +a rude sort of press; and aided by Mrs. E. as compositor, he at length +succeeded in printing prayers, and hymns, and passages of Scripture +for the use of the Indians. Finding their object in detaining the +press thus baffled, the Governor and Committee deemed it expedient to +forward it; but with the express stipulation, that every thing printed +should be sent to the commander of the post as _censor_, before it +was published among the Indians. This was among the first causes of +distrust and dissatisfaction. + +Another source of dissatisfaction was Mr. E.'s faithfulness in +regard to the observance of the sabbath. As the Indians became more +enlightened they ceased to hunt and fish, and even to carry home game +on the sabbath day; and, as a matter of course, they would no longer +work for the Company on that day. But Mr. E. was guilty of equal +faithfulness in remonstrating with those gentlemen in the service with +whom he was on terms of intimacy in regard to this point of the Divine +law; and several gentlemen, convinced by his arguments, determined to +cease from working and travelling on the sabbath. + +One of them, Mr. C----l, while on a distant expedition, acted in +accordance with his convictions, and rested on the sabbath. The voyage +turned out unusually stormy, and the water in the rivers was low, so +that it occupied several days longer than it had formerly done; and +the loss of time, which was really owing to the adverse weather, +was charged on his keeping of the sabbath. From that day forth, +the encouragement given to the Missionaries began to be withdrawn; +obstacles were thrown in their way, and although nothing was openly +done to injure the Missions already in operation, it would seem +that it was determined that, if the Company could prevent it, no new +stations should be occupied--at least by _Protestant_ Missionaries. + +Not long after, Mr. E., finding that the Missions he had hitherto +superintended were in such a state of progress that he might safely +leave them to the care of his fellow-labourers, resolved to proceed +to Athabasca and establish a mission there. Having gone, as usual, to +the Commander of the post to obtain the necessary provisions, and a +canoe and boatmen, he was received with unusual coldness. He asked +provisions,--none could be given; he offered to purchase them,--the +commander refused to sell him any. He begged a canoe,--it was denied +him; and finally, when he intreated that, if he should be able to +procure those necessaries elsewhere, he might at least be allowed a +couple of men to assist him on the voyage, he was answered that none +would be allowed to go on that service. Deeply grieved, but nothing +daunted, Mr. E. procured those necessaries from private resources, +and proceeded on his voyage. But a sad calamity put a stop to it; in +handing his gun to the interpreter it accidentally went off, and the +charge lodging in his breast killed him instantaneously. He was thus +compelled to return, in a state of mind bordering on distraction. + +Mr. E.'s zeal and piety promised the best results to the spiritual +and eternal interests of his Indian brethren. His talents, energy, +and fertility of resource, which seemed to rise with every obstacle, +had the happiest effects on their temporal well-being; and his mild +and winning manners greatly endeared him to all the Indians. But his +useful and honourable career was drawing to a close. The mournful +accident already alluded to had affected his health, and he now +received his deathblow. + +Yet, obnoxious as he had become to the Company, and formidable to +their interests as they might deem one of his talents and indomitable +resolution to be, the blow was not struck by them. It was dealt by +a _false_ brother; by one who had eaten of his bread: by a "familiar +friend, with whom he had taken sweet counsel." Charges affecting his +character, both as a man and a minister, of the foulest and blackest +kind, were transmitted to the Conference by a brother Missionary. To +answer these charges, as false as they were foul, he was compelled +to leave the churches he had planted and watered, to bid adieu to the +people whose salvation had been for years the sole object of his life, +and to undertake a voyage of 5,000 miles to appear before his brethren +as a _criminal_. As a criminal, indeed, he was received; yet after +an investigation, begun and carried on in no very friendly spirit to +him, truth prevailed. He was declared innocent, and the right hand +of fellowship was again extended to him. He made a short tour through +England, and was everywhere received with respect, and affection, and +sympathy. + +But anxiety, and grief, and shame had done their work. Scarce three +weeks had elapsed, when, having spent the evening along with Mrs. +E. in the family of a friend, whose guest he was, with some of his +wonted cheerfulness, Mrs. E. having retired but a few minutes, she was +summoned to the room where she had left him in time to see him pass +into that land where "the wicked cease from troubling." The cause +of his death was an _affection of the heart_. And that man--the +slanderer--the murderer of this martyred Missionary--what punishment +was inflicted on him? He is to this day unpunished! and yet lives +in the Hudson's Bay territory, the disgrace and opprobrium of his +profession and his church. + +Such are a few facts connected with the establishment of the Wesleyan +Mission in the Hudson's Bay territory, and illustrative of the sort +of encouragement given by the Committee to Protestant Missionaries. +By way of rider to these, I may just remind the reader that Roman +Catholic Missionaries have since been freely permitted to plant +churches wherever they pleased, even in districts where Protestant +Missions were already established. + +After all, this is not much to be wondered at, since Sir G. +Simpson openly avowed to Mr. Evans his preference of Roman Catholic +Missionaries; one reason for this preference being, that these never +interfered with the Company's servants, nor troubled them with any +precise or puritanical notions about the moral law. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. + + RED RIVER--SOILS--CLIMATE--PRODUCTIONS--SETTLEMENT OF RED + RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS--COLLISION BETWEEN + THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY COMPANIES--INUNDATION--ITS + EFFECTS--FRENCH HALF-BREEDS--BUFFALO-HUNTING--ENGLISH + HALF-BREEDS--INDIANS--CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--STORES--MARKET FOR + PRODUCE--COMMUNICATION BY LAKES. + + +Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in the distant plains of the +south; and after receiving a number of tributary streams that serve to +fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the world possesses, +discharges itself into the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg in +lat. 50 deg.. The climate is much the same as in the midland districts of +Canada; the river is generally frozen across about the beginning of +November, and open about the beginning of April. The soil along the +banks of the river is of the richest vegetable mould, and of so great +a depth that crops of wheat are produced for several years without the +application of manure. The banks produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the +woods extend rather more than a mile inland. The farms of the first +settlers are now nearly clear of wood; an open plain succeeds of from +four to six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. Woods and +plains alternate afterwards until you reach the boundless prairie. +The woods produce a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the +eye and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, plums, +gooseberries, currants, grapes, and sasgatum berries in great +abundance. Coal has been discovered in several places, and also salt +springs. + +Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted with the natural advantages +of this favoured country by his North-West hosts in Montreal, +determined forthwith on adopting such measures as might ensure to +himself and heirs the possession of it for ever. Accordingly, on his +return to England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's stock to an +amount that enabled him to control the decisions of the Committee; +and thus, covered by the shield of the charter, he could carry on his +premeditated schemes of aggression against the North-West Company, +with some appearance of justice on his side. + +With the view of carrying out these schemes, he proceeded to the North +of Scotland, and prevailed on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to Red +River. To induce them to quit their native land, the most flattering +prospects were held out to them; the moment they set their foot in +this land of promise, the hardships and privations to which they had +hitherto been subject, would disappear; the poor man would exchange +his "potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman would become a +ruler and a judge in--Assineboine! Who could doubt the fulfilment +of the promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, soon +collected the required number of emigrants--for the Highlander of the +present day gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a country that +no longer affords him bread. + +At the period in question, Red River district furnished the principal +part of the provisions required by the North-West Company, and was a +wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, and abounding in the +larger animals--elk and rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the +plains. + +As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which discharges itself by +Neilson's river into Hudson's Bay, and could therefore be included +within the territory granted by the charter, our noble trader +concluded that, by taking formal possession of the country, he would +obtain the right of expelling other adventurers, merely by warning +them off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning were +disregarded, he could claim the aid of Government to enforce his +rights, and thus ruin the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's +Governor was therefore instructed to issue a proclamation, prohibiting +the North-West Company by name, and all others, from carrying on +any species of trade within Red River district, and ordering such +establishments as had been formed to be abandoned. + +The North-Westers read the proclamation, and--prosecuted their +business as before. In such circumstances quarrels were unavoidable, +but they were generally settled with _ink_; a collision ultimately +took place that led to the shedding of blood. The North-Westers had +collected a large supply of provisions at their depot, and were +about to forward it to the place of embarkation, when they were +informed--falsely, as it afterwards appeared,--that the Governor +intended to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, equally false, +was brought to the Governor, that the North-Westers had assembled a +strong force of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying rumours +led to an unhappy catastrophe. + +The Governor sent out scouts to watch the North-West party; +and ascertaining that they were on their march with an unusual +force,--which they had brought in order to repel the attack which they +supposed was to be made upon them,--he seized his arms, and marched +with his whole party to meet them. The North-Westers seeing them +approach, halted, and standing to their arms, sent forward one of +their number to demand whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace +or war. + +During the interview a shot was fired--it is a matter in dispute to +this day who fired it--the half-breeds immediately poured a volley +into the ranks of their opponents, and brought down nearly all the +gentlemen of the party, including the unfortunate Governor; the +remainder fled to the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe +entered together. Thus the poor settlers found themselves suddenly +surrounded by all the horrors of war; their anticipated paradise +converted into a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; their +little property pillaged, and their persons in the power of their +enemies. + +An arrangement, however, was entered into by the rival Companies, +that allowed the emigrants to take possession of the lands allotted +to them, and in the course of a few years their labour had made a +sensible impression on the forest. Cattle were sent out from England; +pigs and poultry followed, and honest Donald was beginning to find +himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams of future wealth and +happiness vanished in a moment. Red River overflowed its banks, +and inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary flood caused +immense loss; it overthrew houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly +ruined the crops of the season. The buffaloes, however, proved +abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions enough to prevent +starvation, and the settlers soon recovered from the effects of this +misfortune. Another calamity followed--the caterpillar appeared--at +first in small numbers, afterwards in myriads, covering the whole +land, and eating up "every green thing," and thus the crops were +destroyed a second time; but the consequences were not so severely +felt as formerly; the preceding season had proved extremely abundant, +and a sufficient quantity remained to supply the failure of this year. +Since that time the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed +peace; industry has its sure reward in the abundance of all the +necessaries of life which it procures. + +Since the coalition took place, Red River has become the favourite +retreat of the Company's servants, especially of those who have +families; here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. A lot of +one mile in length and six chains in breadth, costs only 18l.; and +they find themselves surrounded by people of congenial habits with +themselves, the companions of their youth, and fellow-adventurers; +those with whom they tugged at the oar, and shared the toil of the +winter march; and when they meet together to smoke the social pipe, +and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor prince nor prelate" can +enjoy more happiness. + +The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population at 5,000 souls; it +may now (1845) amount to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion +is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps 300 souls. The Scotch +carried with them the frugal and industrious habits of their country; +the same qualities characterise their children, who are far in advance +of their neighbours in all that constitutes the comforts of life. +These advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, to their +own good management; yet, notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding +that they are a quiet and a moral people, they are objects of envy and +hatred to their hybrid neighbours; and thus my industrious and worthy +countrymen, in the possession of almost every other blessing which +they could desire, are still unhappy from the malice and ill-will they +meet with on every side; and being so inferior in numbers, they must +submit to the insults and abuse they are daily exposed to, while the +blood boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, many of them +have abandoned the settlement and gone to the United States, where +they enjoy the fruits of their industry in peace. + +The French half-breeds and retired Canadian voyageurs occupy the upper +part of the settlement. The half-breeds are strongly attached to the +roving life of the hunter; the greater part of them depend entirely on +the chase for a living, and even the few who attend to farming take a +trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and marrow fat. They sow +their little patches of ground early in spring, and then set out for +the chase, taking wives and children along with them, and leaving only +the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops. + +When they set out for the plains, they observe all the order and +regularity of a military march; officers being chosen for the +enforcement of discipline, who are subject to the orders of a chief, +whom they style "M. le Commandant." They take their departure from the +settlement about the latter end of June, to the number of from 1,200 +to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at least six carts, and some +twelve; the whole number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his riding +nag and cart horses, he has also at least one buffalo runner, which he +never mounts until he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" is +tended with all the care which the cavalier of old bestowed on his +war steed; his housing and trappings are garnished with beads and +porcupine quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's wife or +belle can exercise; while head and tail display all the colours of the +rainbow in the variety of ribbon attached to them. + +The "Commandant" directs the movements of the whole cavalcade: at a +signal given in the morning by sound of trumpet--_alias_, by blowing +a horn,--the hunters start together for their horses; while the women +and servants strike the tents, and pack up and load the baggage. The +horses being all collected, a second blast forms the order of march; +the carts fall in, four abreast; the hunters mount; and dividing into +their different bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes +the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The third blast is +the signal for marching. They halt about two hours at noon, for the +purpose of allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same order is +observed as in starting in the morning. When they encamp at night, +the carts are placed in a circle; and the tents are pitched within +the enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the horses are +"hobbled" and turned loose to graze. + +All the arrangements for the night being completed, guards are +appointed to watch over the safety of the camp, who are relieved +at fixed hours. In this manner they proceed until they approach the +buffalo grounds, when scouts are sent out to ascertain the spot where +the herd may be found. The joyful discovery being made, the scouts +apprise the main body by galloping backwards and forwards, when a halt +is immediately ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters mount their +runners; and the whole being formed into an extended line, with the +utmost regularity, they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul +advances an inch in front of the line, until within gun-shot of the +herd, when they rein up for a moment. The whole body then, as if with +one voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd at full gallop; +each hunter, singling out an animal, pursues it until he finds an +opportunity of taking sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some +article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards recognised. The +hunter immediately sets off in chase of another, priming, loading, and +taking aim at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently secures +ten buffaloes at a "course;" from four to eight is the usual number. +He who draws the first blood claims the animal, and each individual +hunter is allowed whatever he kills. + +The moment the firing commences, the women set out with the carts, and +cut up and convey the meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of +bones and fat. Two or three days are required for the operation, when +they set out again; and the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient +quantity to load all the carts, each carrying about one thousand +pounds,--an enormous quantity in the aggregate; yet the herd is +sometimes so numerous that all this slaughter does not seem to +diminish it. + +The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, and some of the +dangers, of the battle-field. The horses are often gored by the +infuriated bulls, to the great peril--sometimes to the loss--of the +rider's life; serious accidents too happen from falls. There are no +better horsemen in the world than the Red River "brules;" and so long +as the horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. The falls +are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes the badger digs all over the +prairies; if the horse plunges into one of these, both horse and man +roll on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally happen from +gun shots in the _melee_; and it is said, I know not with what truth, +that a wronged husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails +himself of the opportunity presented by the _melee_ to miss the +buffalo, and hit a friend--by _accident_. + +A priest generally accompanies the camp, and mass is celebrated with +becoming solemnity on Sundays. The "brules" attend, looking very +serious and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when the cry of +"La vache! la vache!" scatters the congregation in an instant; away +they scamper, old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the +winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. Two trips in the year +are generally made to the prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo +hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage than of the +civilized man; it is a life of alternate plenty and want--a life +also of danger and inquietude. The Indians of the plain view the +encroachment of the strange race on their hunting grounds, with +feelings of jealousy and enmity. They are, accordingly, continually on +the alert; they attack detached parties and stragglers; they also set +fire to the prairies about the time the "brules" set out for the hunt, +and by this means drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to this +circumstance, the "brules" have returned with empty carts for these +two years past; and their only resource has been to betake themselves +to the woods, and live after the manner of the Indians. Could they +find a sure market for the produce of the soil, so as to remunerate +their labour, there can be little doubt but that they might be +gradually detached from the half-savage life they lead, and become as +steady and industrious as their neighbours. + +The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny of the British are +designated, possess many of the characteristics of their fathers; they +generally prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to the chase, +and follow close on the heels of the Scotch in the path of industry +and moral rectitude. Very few of them resort to the plains, unless for +the purpose of trafficking the produce of their farms for the produce +of the chase; and it is said that they frequently return home better +supplied with meat than the hunters themselves. + +The Indians who have been converted to the Protestant religion, are +settled around their respected pastor at the lower extremity of +the settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth of the river. The +Sauteux, of all other tribes, are the most tenacious of their own +superstitions; and it would require all the zeal and patience and +perseverance of the primitive teachers of Christianity to wean them +from them. But when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert is +the more steadfast in his faith; and his steadfastness and sincerity +prove an ample reward to his spiritual father for his pains and +anxiety on his behalf. + +The Indian converts are entirely guided by their Missionary in +temporal as well as in spiritual things. When he first came among +them, he found their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that +something more than advice was necessary to produce the desired +change. Like Oberlin, therefore, he set before them the example of a +laborious and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, he planted, he +reaped with his own hands, and afterwards shared his produce with +them. By persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining them +to his views; and, at the present moment, their settlement is in as +forward a state of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements. + +They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; their horses, +and cattle, and well-cultivated fields:--a happy change! A few years +ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond race; "hewers of +wood and drawers of water" for the other settlers, as their pagan +brethren still are; they wandered about from house to house, +half-starved, and half-naked; and even in this state of abject misery, +preferring a glass of "fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves +or their children. + +There are at present three ministers of the episcopal communion at Red +River. The Scotch inhabitants attend the church regularly, although +they sigh after the form of worship to which they had been accustomed +in early youth; they, however, assemble afterwards in their own houses +to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the manner of their +fathers. There are also three Roman Catholic clergymen, including +a bishop;--good, exemplary men, whose "constant care" is not "to +increase their store," but to guide and direct their flocks in the +paths of piety and virtue. But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people +to deal with;--the French half-breed, who follows the hunter's life, +possesses all the worst vices of his European and Indian progenitors, +and is indifferent alike to the laws of God and man. There are, +in all, seven places of worship, three Roman Catholic, and four +Protestant, including two for the Indians. + +The education of the more respectable families, particularly those +of the Company's officers, is well provided for at an institution +of great merit; the gentleman who presides over it being every +way qualified for the important trust. The different branches of +mathematical and classical learning are taught in it; and the school +has already produced some excellent scholars. In addition to the more +useful branches of female education, the young ladies are taught music +and drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. Thus we have, +in the midst of this remote wilderness of the North-West, all the +elements of civilized life; and there are there many young persons of +both sexes, well educated and accomplished, who have never seen the +civilized world. There are also thirteen schools for the children of +the lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves. + +The Company have here two shops (or stores), well supplied with every +description of goods the inhabitants can require; there are besides +several merchants scattered through the settlement, some of whom are +said to be in easy circumstances. The Company's bills constitute the +circulating medium, and are issued for the value of from one to twenty +shillings. Of late years, a considerable amount of American specie +has found its way into the settlement, probably in exchange for furs +clandestinely disposed of by the merchants beyond the line. The petty +merchants import their goods from England by the Company's ships; an +_ad valorem_ duty is imposed on these goods, the proceeds of which are +applied to the payment of the constabulary force of the colony. The +Company's charter invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive +and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor and Council enact such +simple statutes as the primitive condition of the settlement requires; +and those enactments have hitherto proved equal to the maintenance +of good order. A court of quarter sessions is regularly held for the +administration of justice, and the Company have lately appointed a +Recorder to preside over it. It is gratifying to learn, that this +functionary has had occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious +crime since his appointment. + +In the work to which I have so frequently referred, it is mentioned, +that a "certain market is secured to the inhabitants by the demand +for provisions for the other settlements." If by "settlements" the +miserable trading posts be meant, as it must be, I know not on what +grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure market, forsooth! A single +Scotch farmer could be found in the colony, able alone to supply the +greater part of the produce the Company require; there is one, in +fact, who offered to do it. If a sure market were secured to the +colonists of Red River, they would speedily become the wealthiest +yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries are always full to +overflowing; so abundant are the crops, that many of the farmers could +subsist for a period of two or even three years, without putting a +grain of seed in the ground. The Company purchase from six to eight +bushels of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three shillings per +bushel; and the sum total of their yearly purchases from the whole +settlement amounts to-- + + 600 cwt. flour, first and second quality. + 35 bushels rough barley. + 10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each. + 10 bushels Indian corn. + 200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour. + 60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each. + 240 lbs. cheese. + 60 hams. + +Thus it happens that the Red River farmer finds a "sure market" for +six or eight bushels of wheat--and no more. Where he finds a sure +market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven only knows--I do not. +This much, however, I do know,--that the incomparable advantages this +delightful country possesses are not only in a great measure lost to +the inhabitants, but also to the world, so long as it remains under +the domination of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession of, and +subject to the immediate jurisdiction of the Crown, Assineboine would +become a great and a flourishing colony--the centre of civilization +and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, who would be converted +from hostile barbarians into a civilized and loyal people;--and thus +Great Britain would extend and establish her dominion in a portion +of her empire that may be said to have been hitherto unknown to her, +while she would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of +her sons. + +In describing the advantages of this country, candour requires that I +should also point out its disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the +difficulty of the communication with the sea, interrupted as it is by +shoals, rapids, and falls, which in their present state can only be +surmounted with incredible toil and labour. Yet there cannot be a +doubt that the skill of the engineer could effect such improvements as +would obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, and that at +no very great cost. The distance from the mouth of Red River to York +Factory is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is formed of +lakes--(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in length, is navigable for vessels +of forty and fifty tons burden). The greater part of the river +communication might be rendered passable by Durham boats, merely +by damming up the rivers. Along the line of communication, many +situations may be found suitable for farming operations. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + SIR G. SIMPSON--HIS ADMINISTRATION. + + +Sir George Simpson commenced his career as a clerk in a respectable +counting-house in London, where his talents soon advanced him to the +first seat at the desk. He was in this situation when first introduced +to the notice of a member of the Committee of the Hudson's Bay +Company, who were at that time engaged in the ruinous competition with +the North-West Company already referred to. While the contest was +at its height, the Company sent out Mr. Simpson as Governor of the +Northern department;--an appointment for which, by his abilities +natural and acquired, he was well qualified. Mr. Simpson combined with +the prepossessing manners of a gentleman all the craft and subtlety of +an intriguing courtier; while his cold and callous heart was incapable +of sympathising with the woes and pains of his fellow-men. On his +first arrival, he carefully concealed from those whom he was about +to supersede, the powers with which he was invested; he studied +the characters of individuals, scrutinized in secret their mode of +managing affairs, and when he had made himself fully acquainted with +every particular he desired to know, he produced his commission;--a +circumstance that proved as unexpected as it was unsatisfactory to +those whose interests it affected. + +Making every allowance for Sir George's abilities, he is evidently +one of those men whom the blind goddess "delighteth to honour." Soon +after assuming the supreme command, the North-West wintering partners +undertook the mission to England, already mentioned, which led to +the coalition; and thus Sir George found himself, by a concurrence of +circumstances quite independent of his merits, placed at the head of +both parties; from being Governor of Rupert's Land his jurisdiction +now included the whole of the Indian territory from Hudson's Bay to +the shores of the Pacific Ocean; and the Southern department, at that +time a separate command, was soon after added to his government. Here, +then, was a field worthy of his talents; and that he did every manner +of justice to it, no one can deny. Yet he owes much of his success +to the valuable assistance rendered him by Mr. McTavish; at his +suggestion, the whole business was re-organized, a thousand abuses +in the management of affairs were reformed, and a strict system +of economy was introduced where formerly boundless extravagance +prevailed. To effect these salutary measures, however, much tact +was required: and here Sir George's abilities shone conspicuous. +The long-continued strife between the two companies had engendered +feelings of envy and animosity, which could not subside in a day; and +the steps that had been taken to bring about the coalition, created +much ill-will even among the North-West partners themselves. Nor were +the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company without their dissensions +also. To harmonize these elements of discord, to reconcile the +different parties thus brought so suddenly and unexpectedly together +into one fold, was a task of the utmost difficulty to accomplish; but +Sir George was equal to it. He soon discovered that the North-West +partners possessed both the will and the ability to thwart and defeat +such of his plans as were not satisfactory to themselves; that +they were by far the most numerous in the Council--at that time +an independent body--and the best acquainted with the trade of the +Northern department, the most important in the territory; and finding, +after some experience, that while those gentlemen continued united, +their power was beyond his control, and that to resist them openly +would only bring ruin on himself, without any benefit to the concern, +he prudently gave way to their influence; and instead of forcing +himself against the stream, allowed himself apparently to be carried +along with it. + +For a time, he seemed to promote all the views of his late +adversaries; he yielded a ready and gracious acquiescence in their +wishes; he lavished his bows, and smiles, and honied words on them +all; and played his part so well, that the North-Westers thought they +had actually gained him over to their own side; while the gentlemen of +the Hudson's Bay Company branded him as a traitor, who had abandoned +his own party and gone over to the enemy. + +The Committee received several hints of the Governor's "strange +management," but they only smiled at the insinuations, as they +perfectly understood the policy. His well-digested schemes had, in due +time, all the success he anticipated. + +Having thus completely gained the confidence of the North-West +partners, his policy began gradually to unfold itself. One +obstreperous North-Wester was sent to the Columbia; another to the +Montreal department, where "their able services could not be dispensed +with;" and thus in the course of a few years he got rid of all those +refractory spirits who dared to tell him their minds. + +The North-West nonconformists being in this manner disposed of, Sir +George deemed it no longer necessary to wear the mask. His old friends +of the Hudson's Bay, or "sky-blue" party, were gradually received into +favour; his power daily gained the ascendant, and at this moment Sir +George Simpson's rule is more absolute than that of any governor under +the British crown, as his influence with the Committee enables him to +carry into effect any measure he may recommend. That one possessed +of an authority so unbounded should often abuse his power is not to +be wondered at; and that the abuse of power thus tolerated should +degenerate into tyranny is but the natural consequence of human +weakness and depravity. The question is--Is it consistent with +prudence to allow an _individual_ to assume and retain such power? +Most of the Company's officers enter the service while yet very young; +none are so young, however, as not to be aware of the privileges to +which they are entitled as British subjects, and that they have a +right to enjoy those privileges while they tread on British soil. +The oft repeated acts of tyranny of which the autocrat of "all Prince +Rupert's Land and its dependencies" has lately been guilty, have +accordingly created a feeling of discontent which, if it could be +freely expressed, would be heard from the shores of the Pacific to +Labrador. + +Unfortunately, the Company's servants are so situated, that they dare +not express their sentiments freely. The clerk knows that if he is +heard to utter a word of disapprobation, it is carried to the ears of +his sovereign lord, and his prospects of advancement are marred for +ever; he therefore submits to his grievances in silence. The chief +trader has probably a large family to support, has been thirty or +forty years in the service, and is daily looking forward to the other +step: he too is silent. The chief factor has a situation of importance +in which his vanity is gratified and his comfort secured; to +express his opinion freely might risk the sacrifice of some of these +advantages; so he also swallows the pill without daring to complain of +its bitterness, and is silent. + +A very valuable piece of plate was, some years ago, presented to +Sir George by the commissioned gentlemen in the service, as a mark +of respect and esteem; and this circumstance may be adduced by Sir +George's friends, with every appearance of reason, as a proof of his +popularity; but the matter is easily explained. Some two or three +persons who share Sir George's favour, determine among themselves +to present him with some token of their gratitude. They address a +circular on the subject to all the Company's officers, well knowing +that none dare refuse in the face of the whole country to subscribe +their name. The same cogent reasons that suppress the utterance of +discontent compelled the Company's servants to subscribe to this +testimonial; and the subscription list accordingly exhibits, with few +exceptions, the names of every commissioned gentleman in the service; +while two-thirds of them would much rather have withheld their +signatures. + +Sir George owes his ribbon to the successful issue of the Arctic +expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson. His share of the +merit consisted in drawing out instructions for those gentlemen, +which occupied about half-an-hour of his time at the desk. It is +quite certain that the expedition owed none of its success to those +instructions. The chief of the party, Mr. Dease, was at least as well +qualified to give as to receive instructions; and Sir George is well +aware of the fact. He knows, too, that Mr. Dease was engaged in +the Arctic expedition under Sir J. Franklin, where he acquired that +experience which brought this important yet hazardous undertaking to +a successful issue; he knows also that in an enterprise of this kind +a thousand contingencies may arise, which must be left entirely to the +judgment of those engaged in it to provide against. + +Sir George, nevertheless, obtained the chief honours; but the bauble +perishes with him; while the courage, the energy and the perseverance +of Mr. Dease and his colleague will ever be a subject of admiration to +those who peruse the narrative of their adventures. + +Sir George's administration, it is granted, has been a successful +one; yet his own friends will admit that much of this success must +be ascribed to his good fortune rather than to his talents. The +North-West Company had previously reduced the business to a perfect +system, which he had only to follow. It is true he introduced great +economy into every department; but the North-West Company had done +so before him, and the wasteful extravagance which preceded his +appointment was entirely the result of the rivalry between the two +companies, and under any governor whatever would have ceased when the +coalition was effected. + +Not a little, too, of Sir George's economy was of "the penny-wise and +pound-foolish" kind. Thus it has been already observed, that the lives +of the Company's servants, and the property of an entire district, +were placed in extreme jeopardy by his false economy; and a +contingency, which no prudent man would have calculated upon, +alone prevented a catastrophe which involved the destruction of the +Company's property to a large amount, as well as of the lives of its +servants. But independently of this, he has committed several errors +of a most serious kind. Of these the chief is the Ungava adventure, +an enterprise which was begun in opposition to the opinion of every +gentleman in the country whose experience enabled him to form a +correct judgment in the matter; and this undertaking was persisted in, +year after year, at an enormous loss to the Company. Finally, he has +not even the merit of correcting his own blunders. It was not till +after a mass of evidence of the strongest kind was laid before the +Committee, that they, in his absence, gave orders for the abandonment +of the hopeless project. + +His caprice, his favouritism, his disregard of merit in granting +promotion, it will be allowed, could not have a favourable effect on +the Company's interests. His want of feeling has been mentioned: a +single example of this will close these remarks. A gentleman of high +rank in the service, whose wife was dangerously ill, received orders +to proceed on a journey of nearly 5,000 miles. Aware that his duty +required a prompt obedience to these orders, he set off, taking her +along with him. On arriving at the end of the first stage, she became +worse; and medical assistance being procured, the physicians were of +opinion that in all probability death would be the consequence if he +continued his journey. A certificate to this effect was forwarded to +Sir George. The answer was, that Madame's health must not interfere +with the Company's service; and that he must continue his journey, or +abide the consequences. + +In consequence of this delay, he only reached Montreal on the day when +the boats were to leave Lachine for the interior. He hurried to the +office, where he met Sir George, and was received by him with the cool +remark-- + +"You are late, Sir; but if you use expedition you may yet be in time +for the boats." + +He earnestly begged for some delay, but in vain. No regard was paid to +his entreaties; and he was obliged to hurry his wife off to Lachine, +and put her on board a common canoe, where there is no accommodation +for a sick person, and where no assistance could be procured, even in +the last extremity. + + + + +VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS IN USE AMONG THE TRIBES IN +THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. + + + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | SAUTEU, or | | BEAVER | | + | ENGLISH. | OGIBOIS. | CREE. | INDIAN. | CHIPPEWAYAN. | + |-----------|---------------|-------------|--------------|--------------| + | One | Pejik | Pay ak | It la day | Ittla h[=e] | + | Two | Neesh | Neesho | Onk shay day | Nank hay | + | Three | Nisway | Nisto | Ta day | Ta he | + | Four | Neowin | Neo | Dini day | Dunk he | + | Five | N[=a] nan | Nay n[=a] | Tlat zoon e | Sa soot | + | | | nan | de ay | la he | + | Six | Ni got as way | Nigotwassik | Int zud ha | L'goot ha he | + | Seven | Nish was | Tay pa | Ta e wayt | Tluz ud | + | | way | goop | zay | dunk he | + | Eight | Shwas way | Ea naneo | Etzud een | L'goot dung | + | | | | tay | he | + | Nine | Sang | Kay gat me | Kala gay ne | Itla ud ha | + | | | t[=a] tat | ad ay | | + | Ten | Quaitch | Me ta tat | Kay nay day | Hona | + | Eleven | Aji pay jik | Payak ai | Tlad ay | Itla, ja | + | | | wak | may day | idel | + | Twelve | Aji neesh | Neesh way | Ong shay day | Nank hay, | + | | | ai wok | may day | ja idel | + | Twenty | Neej ta na | Neesh | Ong ka gay | Ta he, ja | + | | | tan ao | nay day | idel | + | Thirty | Nisway | Neo | Tao gay | | + | | mittana | meatanao | nay day | | + | Forty | Neo mittana | &c. | Deo gay | | + | | | | nay day | | + | Fifty | Nanan mittana | &c. | | | + | Sixty | Nigot asway | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Seventy | Nish was way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Eighty | Shwas way | | | | + | | mittana | | | | + | Ninety | Sang mittana | | | | + | One | Ni goot wack | Me ta tin | Kay nay tay | Itla honan | + | hundred | | mittanao | | nanana. | + | How often | Anin. tas | Tan mat | Tan ay tien | Itla hon | + | | ink | ta to | | eeltay. | + | How many | Anin ain | Tan ay | Tan ay | Itla elday. | + | | tas ink | ta tik | tien | | + | How long | Anape apin | Ta ispi | A shay | Itla hon | + | since | aijo | aspin | doo yay | il tao. | + | When | Anape | Ta is pi | Dee ad | Itlao. | + | | | | doo yay | | + | To-day | Nongum | Anootch kee | Doo jay | Deerd sin | + | | kajigack | je gak | nee ay | o gay. | + | To-morrow | Wabunk | Wa bakay | Ghad ay zay | Campay. | + | Yesterday | Chen[=a]ngo | Ta goosh | Ghagh ganno | Hozud | + | | | ick | | singay. | + | This year | Nongum egee | Anootch | Doo la | Do uz sin e | + | | wang | egee | | gay. | + | | | kee wang | | | + | This | Wa a. | Awa pee | Teeay tee | Dirius | + | month | Ke[=e]sis | shum | za | a gay. | + | A man | Inine | N[=a] bay o | Taz eu | Dinnay you. | + | A woman | Ikway | Isk way o | Iay quay | Tzay quay. | + | A girl | Ikway says | Isk way | Id az oo | Ed dinna | + | | | shish | | gay. | + | A boy | Quee we says | Na bay | Taz yuz e | Dinnay yoo | + | | | shish | | azay. | + | Inter- | Oten way ta | On tway ta | Nao day ay | Dinnay tee | + | preter | ma gay | ma gay o | | ghaltay. | + | Trader | Ata way | Ataway | Meeoo tay | Ma kad ray. | + | | ini niu | ininiu | | | + | Moose- | Moze | Mozwa | Tlay tchin | Tunnehee | + | Deer | | | tay | hee. | + | Rein-Deer | Attick | Attick | May tzee | Ed hun. | + | Beaver | Amick | Amisk | Tza | Tza. | + | Dog | Ani moosh | Attim | Tlee | Tlee. | + | Rabbit | Waboose | Waboose | Kagh | Kagh. | + | Bear | Maqua | Masqua | Zus | Zus. | + | Wolf | Ma ing an | Mahigan | Tshee o nay | Noo nee yay. | + | Fox | Wa goosh | Ma kay | E. yay thay | Nag hee | + | | | shish | | dthay. | + | I hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni m[=a] | Na o zed | Naz uz ay. | + | | ay | tchin | | | + | Thou | Ki ge oz | Ki ma tchin | Nodzed | Nan ul zay. | + | huntest | ay | | | | + | He hunts | Ge oz ay | Ma tchio | Nazin zed | Nal zay. | + | We hunt | Ni ge oz | Ni ma | Naze zedeo | Na il zay. | + | | ay min | tchinan | | | + | Ye hunt | Ki ge | Ki ma | Nazin zedeo | Nal zin | + | | oz aim | tchinawao | | al day. | + | They hunt | Ge oz ay | Matchiwog | Owadie tzed | Na hal zay. | + | | wok | | | | + | I kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mi na | Uz eay gha | Zil tir. | + | | gay | hon | | | + | Thou | Ki ne ta | Ki mi na | Uz eay ghan | Zil nil tir. | + | killest | gay | hon | | | + | He kills | Ne ta gay | Minaho | Ud zeay gha | Tla in il | + | | | | | tir. | + | We kill | Ni ne ta | Ni mina | Uz ugho-ghay | Tla in il | + | | gay min | honan | uzin | dir. | + | Ye kill | Ki ne ta | Kim in a | Uz ugho ghay | Zee ool dir. | + | | gaim | honawa | uzin | | + | They kill | Ne ta | Minahowog | Utza ghay | Tla in | + | | gay wok | | agho | il tay. | + | I laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap in | Utzay rad | Naz-lo. | + | | | | lotsh | | + | Thou | Ki baap | Ki baap in | Utlint lotsh | Na-id-lo. | + | laughest | | | | | + | He laughs | Baape | Baapio | Utroz lotsh | Nad-lo. | + | We laugh | Ni baap | Ni baap | Utlo wod | Tlo | + | | imin | in an | lotshay | a-ee-el-tee.| + | Ye laugh | Ki baapim | Ki baapin | Tlodzud | Tlo gha | + | | | a wao | udzee | ee-ol-tee. | + | They | Baap ewog | Baapiwog | Tlodzud | Tlo-gha- | + | laugh | | | udzee | ee-el-tee. | + | I trade | Ni da ta | Ni da d[=a] | Mata oz lay | Naz nee. | + | | way | wan | | | + | Thou | Ki da ta | Ki da d[=a] | Mata an | Na el nee. | + | tradest | way | wan | eelay | | + | He trades | Ataway | Atawayo | Kita od | Na el nee. | + | | | | eenla | | + | We trade | Ni da ta | Nin da t[=a]| Mata ad oz | Na-da-ell | + | | way min | wan an | id la | nee. | + | Ye trade | Ki da ta | Ki da t[=a] | Mata a la | Na ool nee. | + | | way min | wan o wa | ozayo | | + | They trade| A ta way | Ata way wok | Ma t[=a] a | Eghon a el | + | | wok | | leeay la | nee. | + | I fight | Ni me gaz | Ni no ti | Magad ay a | Din[=i] gun | + | | | ni gan | | as tir. | + | Thou | Ki me gaz | Ki no ti | Magad osee | Dini gun a | + | fightest | | ni gan | ya la | ee dthir | + | He fights | Mi gazo | No ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gay o | | | + | We fight | Ni me | Nino ti ni | -- | -- | + | | gazomin | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye fight | Ki me gazom | Ki no ti ni | -- | -- | + | | | gan a wao | | | + | They | Mi guz | Notini gay | -- | -- | + | fight | o wog | wok | | | + | I set | Ni bug-e | Ni bug-e | Zoo meet la | Tloo e | + | a net | ta wa | ta wan | uz loo | kanistan. | + | Thou | Ki bug-e | Ki bug-e | Too meet | Tloo e kan | + | settest | ta wa | ta wan | lan itlo | e than. | + | a net | | | | | + | He sets | Bug-e ta wa | Bug-e ta | Ta eet loon | Tloo e kan | + | a net | | wao | | ethan loay.| + | We set | Ni bug-e ta | Ni bug-e ta | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | wa min | w[=a]nan | hoon | oodthan. | + | Ye set | Ni bug-e | Ki bug-e | Ta ghoo loo | Tloo e kan | + | a net | ta wam | ta-wan a | uz eo | eehtan. | + | | | wao | | | + | They set | Bug-e ta | Bug-e-ta-wa | Too milt at | -- | + | a net | w[=a] wog | wog | la oozoon | | + | I sail | Ni be mash | Ni be | -- | -- | + | | | mashin | | | + | Thou | Ki be mash | Ki be | -- | -- | + | sailest | | mashin | | | + | He sails | Bi mash e | Be mash eo | -- | -- | + | We sail | Ni bi | Ni bi | -- | -- | + | | mishimin | mashinan | | | + | Ye sail | Ki bi | Ki bi mashin| -- | -- | + | | mash im | a wao | | | + | They sail | Bi mash | Be mash | -- | -- | + | | i wog | i wog | | | + | I sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni ban | Zus tee ay | Thee id ghee.| + | Thou | Ki ni ba | Ki ni ban | Zin tee ay | Theend ghee. | + | sleepest| | | | | + | He sleeps | Ni ba | Ni ba o | Na gho tee | Thad ghee. | + | | | | azay | | + | We sleep | Ni ni b[=a] | Ni ni b[=a]n| Zut ie tsho | Theed | + | | min | an | | gh[=a]z | + | Ye sleep | Ki ni bam | Ki ni ban | Tsuz ie | Thood ghaz | + | | | [=a] wao | tsho | | + | They | Ni ba wog | Ni ba wog | Tsugh ien | Hay ud | + | sleep | | | tiez | ghaz | + | I drink | Ni minik way | Ni minik wan| Uzto | Haysta | + | Thou | Ki minik way | Ki minik | Nadho | Nad-ha | + | drinkest | | wan | | | + | He drinks | Minik way | Minik way o | Ughiehedo | Ee ed ha | + | We drink | Ni minik | Ni minik | May ee ta | Heel tell | + | | way min | w[=a]nan | | | + | Ye drink | Ki mink waim | Ki minik | May lee | Hool tell | + | | | wan[=a]wao| ta la | | + | They | Minikway wog | Minikway wok| May atta | He el tell | + | drink | | | | | + | I want to | Ni we | Ni we | O ghoz to | Oz ta in | + | drink | miniquay | miniquan | | is tan | + | Drink | Minik quaine | Minik quay | Llhad ho | Ned ha | + | Eat | Wiss in | Mee tisso | In tzits | Zinhud hee | + | Sleep | Ni b[=a]n | Ni ba | Njuz ti ay | Dthin ghee | + | Go away | Eko k[=a]n | Awiss tay | E yow e | E you | + | | | | tshay | issay | + | Come here | Undass is | Ass-tum | Tee ad zay | E youk | + | | han | | | uz ay | + | Tell him | Win da ma o | Wi da ma o | Tee ay tin | Hal in nee | + | | | | day | | + | Trade | At[=a]waine | Ataway | Tee ay gho | Na il nee | + | | | | tsho | | + | Whence | Ande | Tante way | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | do you | wentchipai | to tay | dzin aghon | gho adzee | + | come? | an | | dee ay | an adee | + | Where | Ande aish | Tante ay to | Tee ay ghay | Ed luzeet | + | are you | [=a]e an | tay an | de [=a]za | hee hee | + | going? | | | | ya | + | Be quick | Wee weep e | Kee-ee pee | Dzag ghay | Ee-gha | + | | tan | | | | + | I shoot | Ni bas giss | Ni bas giss | A jes tee o | A yous | + | | e gay | e gan | | kay | + | Thou | Ki bas giss | Ki bas giss | A tee tshe | Ahil kay | + | shootest| e gay | e gan | etsh | | + | He shoots | B[=a]s giss | Bas giss | Agha tee et | Ahil guth | + | | e gay | e gay-o | yetsh | | + | We shoot | Ni bas gisse | Ni bas gisse| Ateed yetsh | Ahel keeth | + | | gay min | g[=a]n an | | | + | Ye | Ki bas gisse | Ki bas giss | Atad yetsh | Er. ool | + | shoot | game | e gan [=a]| | keeth. | + | | | wao | | | + | They | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss e | Aza du ghad | Tay ar el | + | shoot | gay wog | gay wog | yetsh | keeth. | + | A Gun | B[=a]s gisse | Bas giss e | Tie yaz o o | Tel git | + | | gan | gan | | hay. | + | Powder | Makatay | Kas. ki tay | Al aizay | Tel ge | + | | | o | | gonna. | + | Shot | She shep ass | Nisk ass in | Noo tay | Telt hay. | + | | nin | ee a | ad-o o | | + | Give me | Meesh ish in | Mee an | Tes yay | Daz ee. | + | I give | Ki mee nin | Ki mee | Nan uz lay | Na gha on | + | you | | ni tin | | in in nee. | + | Look | In [=a] bin | Et[=a] bi | Ag gan eetha | Ghon el lee. | + | Wait | Pee ton | Pay ho | Ad oog-a. | Gad day. | + | Tobacco | Na say ma | Na stay mao | Aday ka yaze | Sel tooe. | + | Pipe | Poagan | Os poagan | Tsee ay | Dthay. | + | Net | Assup | A he apee | Too me | Dtka bill. | + | Fish | Kee k[=o] | Kee no | Tloo | Tloo-ay. | + | | | shay o | | | + | Flesh | Wee-ass | Wee ass | Ad zun | Berr. | + | River | See pe | See pe | Za ghay | D[=a]z. | + | Lake | Sa ka i gan | Sa ka i gan | Meet hay | Nad koo al | + | | | | | ta. | + | Water | Nee pee | Nee pee | Too | Too. | + | Summer | Nee been | Nee been |Ad o lay | Seen nay. | + | Winter | Pay poon | Pay pun | Ealk hay ay | Gh[=a] e | + | | | | | yay. | + | Spring | See goan | Me as gamin | Do o | Tloo guth. | + | Autumn | Tag w[=a] gin | Tag w[=a] | Edoo | Ghao ud | + | | | gin | aidlosin | azay. | + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service +in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY *** + +***** This file should be named 16864.txt or 16864.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/8/6/16864/ + +Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William +Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |