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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in
+the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory
+       Volume II. (of 2)
+
+Author: John M'lean
+
+Release Date: October 13, 2005 [EBook #16864]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by canadiana.org (Canadian Institute for Historical
+Microreproductions), a www.PGDP.net Volunteer, William
+Flis, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+ +-----------------------------------------+
+ | Transcriber's note: Special characters  |
+ |   are encoded thusly: [=a], [=e], and   |
+ |   [=o] represent "a", "e", and "o" with |
+ |   superior macron.                      |
+ +-----------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+OF A
+
+TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
+
+IN THE
+
+HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
+
+
+BY JOHN M'LEAN.
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+
+LONDON:
+
+RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
+
+PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY.
+
+1849.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Journey to Norway House 9
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Arrival at York Factory--Its
+Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of
+the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Exploring Expedition through the Interior of
+Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the
+Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at
+Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's
+River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous
+Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and
+miraculous Escape 60
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a
+Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward
+Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable
+Condition 81
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the
+Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of
+the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return
+by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava
+River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the
+Post 88
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain
+permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable
+Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and
+Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador
+to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of
+Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The
+Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or
+Canoe--Ouimiàk, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European
+Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at
+the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The
+Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The
+Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New
+York 167
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at
+Albany--Journey to Montreal 187
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch
+from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage
+La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort
+Simpson--Productions of the Post 193
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of
+the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of
+Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The
+North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the
+Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted
+207
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the
+McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La
+Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My
+Reply to the Governor 228
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the
+Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's
+River District--Peculiarities--Distress through
+Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity
+of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard,
+but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the
+Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's
+Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of
+Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the
+Charter--Objections answered 260
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr.
+Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the
+Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to
+England--His sudden Death 278
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.
+
+Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River
+through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the
+North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its
+Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English
+Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for
+Produce--Communication by Lakes 289
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in
+the Hudson's Bay Territory 323
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+OF A
+
+TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
+
+IN THE
+
+HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE.
+
+
+I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at
+Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the
+district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate
+neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing
+aspect of spring.
+
+Mr. F---- was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west
+bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey
+overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on
+the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in
+the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented
+a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the
+horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow--the
+intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure
+of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake
+contributing to the variety of the landscape.
+
+Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in
+consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever
+they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals,
+began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to
+allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared.
+
+On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which,
+to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in
+which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights
+on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to
+the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring
+high grounds.
+
+On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge,
+Mr. B---- having set off a few days before for the dépôt at Fort
+Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who
+entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day
+we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against
+this fare having completely vanished.
+
+Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River
+and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the
+Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are
+there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find
+subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords.
+They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed
+towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of
+puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men
+understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground,
+which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry;
+and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community
+and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any
+one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during
+their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself
+by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by _pure_
+hands.
+
+We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles
+found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we
+advanced. The track left by Mr. B----'s party was of great service to
+us.
+
+We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small
+camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures
+passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our
+provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment
+afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a
+snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out
+so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had
+put the blood in circulation by walking.
+
+We overtook Mr. B---- on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and
+worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow
+indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted
+the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded
+horses to make a track.
+
+The country through which we have travelled for the last few days
+is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the
+traveller.
+
+We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left
+bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to
+the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of
+the winter--an extraordinary circumstance, as there generally falls so
+little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly
+all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect
+of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes,
+&c.; they subsist on salmon and roots.
+
+Messrs. F---- and D---- arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of
+April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring
+servants. Mr. B---- accompanied us, having obtained permission to
+cross the Rocky Mountains.
+
+We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly
+reception from a warmhearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding
+to the dépôt in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department
+generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these
+accounts--an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we
+re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D---- and B---- behind; the former being
+remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, having changed his mind,
+in an evil hour for himself, returned to his old quarters; where he
+was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian who had lost his father,
+and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for
+the absence of his children.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    ARRIVAL AT YORK FACTORY--ITS
+    SITUATION--CLIMATE--NATIVES--REIN-DEER--VOYAGE TO
+    UNGAVA--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA--SITUATION
+    AND ASPECT.
+
+
+I arrived at York Factory, the dépôt of the Northern department, early
+in July. This establishment presents a more respectable appearance
+than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, and reflects no
+small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly
+executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected
+since the coalition. When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the
+buildings were of the most wretched description--the apartments
+had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for
+gentlemen.
+
+The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were
+to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the
+object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a
+great expense; and the present commodious buildings were commenced,
+but not finished by the projector. Other improvements have been made
+since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that
+could be expected in so unfavourable a situation.
+
+The dépôt is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted
+by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks. Here there is always a
+sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand
+of the trade for two years--a wise precaution, as in the event of
+any accident happening to prevent the vessel from reaching her
+destination, the trade would not be interrupted. The very emergency
+thus provided for occurred last autumn; the ship, after dropping
+anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather
+to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining
+other serious damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward event,
+the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the
+interior with their outfits complete.
+
+The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered
+unhealthy. In summer the extremes of heat and cold are experienced in
+the course of a few hours; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen,
+and before noon, duffle. Were the heat to continue for a sufficient
+length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could
+not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic
+exhalations from the surrounding swamps. The ground, however, seldom
+thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never
+affected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy.
+
+One of Mr. McT----'s most beneficial improvements was to clear the
+swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were
+thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a great measure relieved
+from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the
+mosquitoes. These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared
+ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for
+his temerity. Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered
+with them; defence is out of the question; the death of one is avenged
+by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the unequal
+contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his
+quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door.
+
+There seems to be no foundation for the opinion generally entertained
+that the natives do not suffer from the stings of these insects. The
+incrustation of filth with which their bodies are covered undoubtedly
+affords some protection, the skin not being so easily pierced; but no
+incrustation, however thick, can be a defence against the attacks of
+myriads; and in fact, the natives complain as loudly of the mosquitoes
+as the whites.
+
+The Indians of this quarter are denominated Swampies, a tribe of the
+Cree nation, whose language they speak with but little variation,
+and in their manners and customs there is a great similarity. But the
+Swampies are a degenerate race, reduced by famine and disease to a
+few families; and these have been still farther reduced by an
+epidemic which raged among them this summer. They were attacked by
+it immediately on their return from the interior with the produce
+of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes of being benefited
+by medical advice and attendance. Their hopes, however, were not
+realized; they were left entirely in charge of a young man without
+experience and without humanity; and the disease was unchecked. Every
+day the death of some poor wretch was made known to us by the firing
+of guns, by which the survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened
+away from the souls of their departed friends.
+
+Not many years ago this part of the country was periodically visited
+by immense herds of rein-deer; at present there is scarcely one to be
+found. Whether their disappearance is owing to their having changed
+the course of their migrations, or to their destruction by the
+natives, who waylaid them on their passage, and killed them by
+hundreds, is a question not easily determined. It may be they have
+only forsaken this part of the country for a time, and may yet return
+in as great numbers as ever: be that as it may, the present want to
+which the Indians are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of
+those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded them food and clothing.
+Their subsistence is now very precarious; derived principally from
+snaring rabbits and fishing; and rabbits also fail periodically.
+
+Their fare during summer, however, soon obliterates the remembrance
+of the privations of winter: fish is then found in every lake, and
+wild-fowl during the moulting season become an easy prey; while young
+ducks and geese are approached in canoes, and are destroyed with
+arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired the use of their
+wings. The white man similarly situated would undoubtedly think of
+the long winter he had passed in want, and would provide for the next
+while he could;--so much foresight, however, does not belong to the
+Indian character.
+
+Fishing and hunting for the establishment affords employment to a few
+Indians during summer, and is an object of competition among them,
+on account of the incomparable gratification it affords--grog
+drinking--to which no earthly bliss can be compared in the Indian's
+estimation. To find the Company serving out rum to the natives as
+payment for their services in this remote quarter, created the utmost
+surprise in my mind: no excuse can be advanced which can justify the
+unhallowed practice, when the management of the native population is
+left entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued? Strange to say,
+while Indians were to be seen rolling drunk about the establishment,
+an order of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of ardent spirits
+in any quantity exceeding two gallons to the Company's officers of
+whatever rank, with the view of preventing the demoralization of the
+natives!
+
+Most of the natives have a smattering of English, and are said to be
+a quiet, harmless race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote
+situation, and impoverished country protect them from the hostile
+inroads of neighbouring tribes; hence the tame and pacific demeanour
+by which they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often retires to
+rest without a morsel to eat for himself or family, and that for days
+together; yet he is under no apprehension from his enemies, and enjoys
+his night's rest undisturbed; whereas, the warrior of the plain, while
+he revels in abundance, seldom retires to rest without apprehension;
+the hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his midnight slumber,
+either to be butchered himself, or to hear the dying groans of his
+family while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of man with good
+and evil in every condition, whether civilized or savage.
+
+Every preparation for our departure being now completed, I took leave
+of Fort York, its fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret.
+We embarked on the 22d of August, in a brig that had fortunately
+escaped the mishaps of the other vessels last autumn; and after being
+delayed in port by adverse winds till the 26th, we finally stood out
+to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert just come in. The fields of
+ice, that had been observed a few days previously, having now entirely
+disappeared, the captain concluded that the passage was clear for him,
+and accordingly steered for the south. He had not proceeded far in
+this direction, however, when we fell in with such quantities of ice
+as to interrupt our passage; but we still continued to force our
+way through. Convinced at length of the futility of the attempt,
+we altered our course to a directly opposite point, standing to the
+north, until we came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away for
+the strait, making Mansfield Island on the 7th of September. We
+encountered much stream ice on our passage, from which no material
+injury was sustained; although the continual knocking of our rather
+frail vessel against the ice created a good deal of alarm, from the
+effect the collision produced, shaking her violently from stem to
+stern.
+
+We were thus passing rapidly through the straits without experiencing
+any accident worthy of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one
+evening, how soon he expected to make the Island of Akpatok. He
+replied, "To-morrow morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest
+about ten, P.M., and I had not yet fallen asleep, when I heard
+an unusual bustle on deck, and one of the men rushing down to the
+captain's room to call him up. I instantly dressed and went on
+deck, where I soon learned the cause;--a dark object, scarcely
+distinguishable through the fog and gloom of night, was pointed out
+to me on our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which we had been
+rushing, propelled by wind and current, at the rate of thirteen knots
+an hour, when it was observed. A few moments more, and we had been
+launched into eternity. Had the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed
+for a minute, or had the slightest accident occurred to prevent the
+vessel from wearing at the very instant, our doom was certain.
+
+The western extremity of the Island of Akpatok, terminating in a
+high promontory seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's edge,
+formed the danger we had so providentially escaped. Next day we saw
+the dismal spot in all its horrors. The island was still partially
+covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation were discernible; but
+a fresh breeze springing up we soon lost sight of this desolate spot,
+and made the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about an hour after
+sunset. The captain was a perfect stranger on the coast, and had but a
+very imperfect chart to guide him; he nevertheless stood boldly in for
+the land, and fortunately discovered the mouth of the river, which we
+entered as darkness closed in upon us.
+
+By this time the breeze, that had carried us on so rapidly, increased
+to a gale, so that if we had not entered the river so opportunely,
+the consequences might have been serious. We were utterly unacquainted
+with the coast, which presented a thousand dangers in the shape of
+rocks and breakers, that were observable in every direction, as far as
+the eye could reach to seaward; we therefore congratulated ourselves
+on our fancied security--for it was only fancied, as will presently
+appear. We kept firing as we approached the land, with the view of
+apprizing the people of the post, who were directed to await us at the
+mouth of the river. No sound was heard in reply until we had advanced
+a few miles up the river, when we were gratified with hearing the
+report of muskets, and presently several torches were visible blazing
+a little ahead.
+
+The night was uncommonly dark, the banks of the river being scarcely
+perceptible; and although it appeared to me we were much nearer then
+than prudence would warrant, we still drew nearer, when our progress
+was suddenly arrested. The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock,
+and heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown on her beam-ends.
+Swinging round, however, with the force of the current, she soon got
+off again; and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped anchor.
+Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came alongside in their canoes, who
+gave us to understand by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the
+post.
+
+Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, our Esquimaux made
+signs to weigh anchor, which being done, one of them took his station
+by the side of the helmsman, and never moved a moment from the spot,
+pointing out the deep channel, with which he appeared well acquainted;
+although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted in his countenance, lest
+any accident should happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, when
+he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep groan; he managed so well,
+however, that he brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall.
+From 10 A.M. until late in the evening we had only advanced
+twenty-five miles, although we pressed against the current with
+top-gallant sails set and a strong wind in our favour.
+
+Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey and myself determined
+on rowing up to the post, where we arrived about four, P.M. I need
+scarcely say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people so
+seldom visited by strangers, in a situation which had no regular
+communication as yet with any other part of the world.
+
+I was much gratified by the appearance of every thing about the
+establishment. The buildings had just been finished with materials
+sent out from England, through the considerate and kindly feeling of
+the Committee, whose compassion had been excited by the accounts they
+had heard of the miserable hovels in which the people were lodged when
+the place was first settled. After passing an hour or two examining
+the fort, (as it is called _par excellence_,) we returned to the
+ship, and weighing anchor at an early hour the next morning, (11th
+September,) we were soon brought up to the establishment, and landed
+without loss of time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us no
+small consolation, however, to reflect that we had no further cause to
+apprehend danger from icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us
+greater comfort as to living and accommodation than we had been led to
+expect.
+
+The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped down with the stream on
+the 15th, leaving us to reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary
+prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, while the operation
+of weighing was being executed, echoing from the surrounding hills,
+suggested the question, "When shall that sound be heard again?" From
+the melancholy reverie which this idea suggested I was roused by the
+voice of my fellow exile, "the companion of my joys and sorrows," in
+whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell.
+
+This post is situated in lat. 59° 28', standing on the east bank of
+South River, about thirty miles distant from the sea, surrounded by
+a country that presents as complete a picture of desolation as can be
+imagined; moss-covered rocks without vegetation and without verdure,
+constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the eye in every
+direction. A few stunted pines growing in the villages form the
+only exception; and at this season of the year, when they shed their
+leaves, contribute but little to the improvement of the scene.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR
+    OF LABRADOR--DIFFICULTIES--DEER-HUNT--INDIAN
+    GLUTTONY--DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY--PROVISIONS RUN
+    SHORT--INFLUENZA.
+
+
+The Company having learned, through a pamphlet published by the
+Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent
+furs, were induced by the laudable desire of "ameliorating the
+condition of the natives," to settle it; and a party was accordingly
+sent overland from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of
+1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left
+both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company.
+
+Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a
+settlement in this quarter, the profits derived from it added but
+little to the dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance
+like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be
+found; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price,
+they were far from plentiful; while the enormous expense of supplying
+the district by sea, and supporting it on imported provisions,
+rendered the "Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant
+discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the
+measure from the first.
+
+Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware
+of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every
+effort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the
+returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the
+interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at
+the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast
+of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from
+thence by inland route; "there being no question of the practicability
+of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers.
+
+Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and
+represented to me the utter impossibility of carrying my instructions
+into effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches
+from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the
+district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage,
+placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a
+very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst
+by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This
+vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance on the 22d of September,
+and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two
+years' consumption.
+
+Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the
+difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the
+natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining
+there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an
+early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo
+on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey
+to the reader.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 2d of January_, 1838.--I left Fort Chimo at eleven
+A.M., accompanied by the following men, _viz._:--
+
+"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian guides, who are to
+accompany me throughout the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson
+go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with
+provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 3d._--Left our encampment before dawn of day.
+Excessively cold--some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our
+principal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us,
+set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having
+proceeded about nine miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 4th._--Started at seven A.M. Reached High Fall Creek
+at nine A.M. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone,
+finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at
+half-past nine; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our
+young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. We waited
+till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely
+exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 5th._--Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five
+A.M.; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles.
+
+"_Saturday, the 6th._--As the ice was covered with water close to our
+encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off
+at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence
+of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It
+continuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I
+gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile.
+
+"_Sunday, the 7th._--Got up about three A.M., literally buried in
+snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them
+till eight o'clock, when we started with only half loads, with which
+we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the
+remainder; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the
+tempest which had incommoded us so much last night had cleared the
+ice of snow; we therefore returned for the property we had left; then
+proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached
+the lake; when my guides, discovering a herd of deer on an adjacent
+hill, immediately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my
+two _brules_. I saw at once my day's journey was at an end, and
+accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us
+in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed.
+Proceeded eight miles.
+
+"_Monday, the 8th._--Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was
+much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which
+our route lay. Thirteen miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 9th._--Blowing a hurricane; the cold being also
+intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the
+risk of being frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters,
+such as they were, until the weather should moderate.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 10th._--My guides appeared very unwilling to quit
+their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They might
+have been really ill; but the beastly manner in which they had been
+gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the
+cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore
+sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their
+choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled
+through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen
+miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 11th._--Started at five, A.M. Soon fell on a large
+lake, on which we travelled till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus
+far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width.
+As Mr. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these
+inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to
+the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best
+quality; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of
+the year. Proceeded fifteen miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 12th._--Being immoderately cold, and the wind blowing
+direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake.
+
+"_Saturday, the 13th._--Weather fine. Left Erlandson's Lake about one,
+A.M.; it still stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach,
+and cannot be less than forty miles in length; its medium breadth,
+however, does not exceed two miles and a half. The circumjacent
+country is remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the highest
+hills, and is reported by the natives to abound in martens. A few
+industrious Indians would not fail to turn such advantages to good
+account; but they can avail the Company very little, while the natives
+alone are in possession of them. Went on twenty-four miles.
+
+"_Sunday, the 14th._--Set off at five, A.M. Passed over several small
+lakes; the country well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon,
+the banks covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced
+sixteen miles.
+
+"_Monday, the 15th._--Took our departure at seven, A.M. Travelled
+without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 16th._--Decamped at five, A.M.; the snow very deep in
+the woods. Fell on Whale River at ten, A.M. The face of the country
+presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river
+it is generally well wooded, but afterwards becomes extremely
+barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks.
+Proceeded sixteen miles.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 17th._--Started at five, A.M. Our route in the
+morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out
+again on Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. The
+appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday.
+Proceeded eighteen miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 18th._--P. Neven being unable to travel from
+indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue,
+deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime
+I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far
+reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I
+accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back.
+
+"_Friday, the 19th._--Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now
+convalescent) and Mordoch Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I
+and my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained a sled of dogs,
+intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale
+River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at
+four, P.M. Fourteen miles.
+
+"_Saturday, the 20th._--The moon affording no longer light to find
+our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven
+A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small
+growth; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on
+which we travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles.
+
+"_Sunday, the 21st._--Set off at seven A.M. About eleven, we fell on
+the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully
+examined; their experience not only enabling them to determine the
+precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely
+to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very
+much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present
+modicum of food, I determined on availing myself of an opportunity
+which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians
+accordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure
+to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the
+heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the
+time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after
+them a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the herd, which
+immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our
+guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain by
+ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed
+of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals
+fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have
+believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space
+of time the kettle was disposed of;--and this, too, after their usual
+daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the
+other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles.
+
+"_Monday, the 22nd._--On examining the remains of the deer this
+morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good
+intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves so
+sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for
+their canine brethren. We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very
+heavy in the woods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we
+made better speed. Thirteen miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 23rd._--Travelled through woods the greater part of the
+day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 24th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Our route lay through
+swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens
+appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have
+discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our
+route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers
+frequent, are to be met with in every direction; but the country
+produces no food for them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable
+lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On
+asking them if this were the lake where we intended to build, they
+pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in
+that direction!--so far had I been led from the route I intended to
+have followed, notwithstanding the perfect understanding I had with
+my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment.
+Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 25th._--Immediately on leaving our encampment, we
+fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be
+George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed
+our course over bare hills. Encamped at three, P.M. Eleven miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 26th._--Having passed the night in a clump of small
+pines, which sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we
+were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round
+us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were
+completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind
+blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing
+a hummock of wood close to us, we shaped our course for it, where we
+were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees
+to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing
+with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty in
+clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a
+miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles.
+
+"_Saturday, the 27th._--Arose from our comfortless _couché_ at
+half-past four. The snow having drifted over us, and being melted
+by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our
+blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying
+them occupied us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very deep.
+Proceeded nine miles.
+
+"_Sunday, the 28th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Snow still increasing
+in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we
+came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a
+short distance; then followed the course of a small stream running in
+an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our route lay over marshes
+and small lakes; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with
+larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles.
+
+"_Monday, the 29th._--Started at seven. Appearance of the country much
+the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 30th._--Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking
+heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength,
+which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has
+had to perform; always beating the track a-head, without being once
+relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 31st._--Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a
+few small birch trees. Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 1st of February._--Started at the usual hour. We have
+been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past.
+The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer,
+are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently
+pursuing a circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage,
+subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions,--a contingency
+which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can
+afford no more food to the dogs; their load is now transferred to the
+men's sleds. Fifteen miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 2d._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our route over
+extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to
+be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least
+elevation commands a most extensive view; but the eye turns away in
+disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present.
+I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this
+evening. Eighteen miles.
+
+"_Saturday, the 3d._--Set off at seven, A.M. Reached Michigama Lake at
+one, P.M.; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped
+on an island. Proceeded twenty miles.
+
+"_Sunday, the 4th._--Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted
+for our scanty meal at ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our
+march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island near the mainland on
+the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here
+repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay,
+by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that
+nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable
+starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by
+the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own
+provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I
+had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in
+accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country.
+
+"_Monday, the 5th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Reached the mainland at
+half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north-east,
+which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the
+lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The
+Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, but miserably small pine,
+thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen
+miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 6th._--Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his
+way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding;
+when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace,
+which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate.
+Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 7th._--Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the
+site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently
+occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from
+Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route,
+required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to
+Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree,
+that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped
+near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by
+inaccessible precipices on both sides. The view above the fall is
+interrupted by stupendous rocks; the natives say that the appearance
+of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to
+Michigama Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind
+of craft. Eighteen miles.
+
+"_Thursday, the 8th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Fine travelling on
+the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five
+minutes past five. Twenty miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 9th._--Decamped at seven. Travelling good; the banks
+of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We
+observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles.
+
+"_Saturday, the 10th._--Started at eight, A.M. About noon we arrived
+at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west.
+Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward.
+The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives
+to be impracticable, and similar to the upper part. Our snow-shoes
+being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose
+of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles.
+
+"_Sunday, the 11th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our course
+through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it
+struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing
+its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending
+and descending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men
+complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles.
+
+"_Monday, the 12th._--The weather being so much overcast that we
+could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, A.M.
+Encamped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles.
+
+"_Tuesday, the 13th._--Set off at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous
+snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day;
+we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant
+recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide
+told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in the
+evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found
+two of Mr. McGillivray's people, who were stationed there for the
+purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles.
+
+"_Wednesday, the 14th._--The weather being unpropitious, and finding
+ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day
+enjoying the comfort of a roof.
+
+"_Thursday, the 15th._--Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn;
+the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D.
+Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely
+incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire
+was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to
+lie down; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I
+waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued my route, accompanied by
+the Indians, leaving H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen
+miles.
+
+"_Friday, the 16th._--Set off at four, A.M. Arrived at dusk at Port
+Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and long
+beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name.
+
+"_Saturday, the 17th._--An Indian was despatched early in the morning,
+to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington
+Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want
+of food than medicine."
+
+Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at
+present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy
+or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of
+their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an
+understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing
+to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so
+conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation
+among themselves, they expressed their intention to be guided by our
+advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my
+despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to
+be forwarded thence to Canada, _via_ the Company's posts along the
+Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay for my guides (who had
+gone to pay the _kettles_ of their friends a visit), preparatory to my
+departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than
+I had calculated upon, from the prevalence of excessively bad weather
+for a fortnight.
+
+Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned the same evening; but
+they were so emaciated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking
+like so many spectres--a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at
+that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however,
+declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load;
+and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany his relative. Two
+young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much
+reduced as the others, I proposed to them to accompany me as far
+as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they
+consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along
+with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself and two men, along with my
+"husky" interpreter, followed next morning; but as we are to retrace
+our steps by the same way we came, it will be unnecessary to narrate
+the occurrences of each day.
+
+We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one
+of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and
+unable to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, did not
+much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his
+route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest
+camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our
+guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal
+malady,--this was the climax to my disappointment. I determined on
+returning to Fort Smith with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I
+hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the
+end of the season.
+
+I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the
+dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson
+in charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. On the morning
+of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to
+haul the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further
+orders.
+
+My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing
+sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis
+of the malady; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered
+strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which
+I joyfully assented; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the
+19th of March, and joined my men next day.
+
+Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I
+started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength
+enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of
+provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. We
+overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide
+from his relatives while we pursued the same route. We arrived on the
+30th at their last stage, and encamped together.
+
+Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my
+guide, announcing his determination to proceed no farther, unless
+Pellican were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately,
+and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of
+such a proposition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for
+ourselves--that it would expose the whole party to the risk of
+starvation; but I addressed a thing without reason and without
+understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield.
+
+We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining
+our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was
+altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too
+apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to
+avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences;
+and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two
+parties,--the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort,
+by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other,
+which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to
+absolute want.
+
+Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied by the guide and
+H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson to make the best of his way, with the
+Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the
+provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were
+soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved
+to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on
+the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present
+circumstances, "food for the gods." Such as it was, it enabled us to
+keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th
+of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country
+assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends--our
+guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to
+meet my rear-guard,--the other servants about the establishment, who
+were accustomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer.
+
+On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with
+Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he
+replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles
+distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could
+not be prevailed upon to go a step farther; and that he (Pellican)
+had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they
+expected. They were within a day's journey of them; and yet the
+wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, leaving the others
+to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely;
+yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, who have but
+little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from
+the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived,
+were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing; and I had the
+satisfaction to see my famished _compagnons de voyage_ arrive, on the
+26th of April.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT--EXPLORING PARTY--THEIR
+    REPORT--ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX--ESTABLISH POSTS--POUNDING
+    REIN-DEER--EXPEDITION UP GEORGE'S RIVER--ITS
+    DIFFICULTIES--HAMILTON RIVER--DISCOVER A STUPENDOUS
+    CATARACT--RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA--SUDDEN STORM,
+    AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE.
+
+
+Having thus ascertained the impracticability of the inland
+communication, I transmitted the result of my observations to the
+Governor--a report which, I doubt not, proved rather unpalatable to
+his Excellency, unaccustomed as he is to have any of his movements
+checked by that impudent and uncompromising word--impossible. I
+was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt had proved uncommonly
+successful; so that I had now the means of carrying into effect the
+Governor's instructions on this point. On the approach of spring,
+preparations were made for establishing a post inland; guides were
+hired for the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success.
+
+At this time I was visited by a very grievous affliction, in the loss
+of my beloved wife, whose untimely death left me in a more wretched
+condition than words can express. This was truly an eventful year for
+me;--within that space I became a husband, a father, and a widower;--I
+traversed the continent of America, performing a voyage of some
+1,500 miles by sea, and a journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on
+snow-shoes.
+
+As soon as the navigation became practicable (June 18), Mr. Erlandson
+set off for the interior, with his outfit, in three small canoes, and
+after much toil reached his destination on the 10th of July. On the
+return of the men who had assisted in the transport, I fitted out
+an expedition to explore the coast to the westward, with the view of
+ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter, for the extension of
+the business. The party was absent about a month; and their report
+was entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying our "ameliorating
+system" so far. The navigation of the coast is exceedingly dangerous,
+from the continual presence of ice, and the extraordinary force of the
+currents. While the coast proved so inaccessible, the interior of the
+country wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect; not a tree, nor
+shrub, nor plant of any land, is to be seen, save the lichens that
+cover the rocks, and a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom our
+people had seen, evinced the same amicable disposition by which their
+whole race is distinguished. They received our people with open arms,
+and some of the young damsels seemed disposed to cultivate a closer
+intimacy with them than their ideas of propriety, or at least their
+olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia that proceeds from
+their persons in the summer season is quite insufferable; it is as if
+you applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil.
+
+In the course of the summer, several Esquimaux arrived from the
+westward, with a considerable quantity of fox-skins,--the only fur
+this barren country yields. Some of these poor creatures had passed
+nearly two years on their journey hither, being obliged to hunt or
+fish for their living as they travelled. They set off on their return
+with a little tobacco, or a few strings of beads;--very few having the
+means of procuring guns and ammunition.
+
+Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the month of September, when
+I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a
+junior clerk appointed to the district. By him we received the first
+intelligence of the stirring events that had taken place in the
+colonies during the preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs of my
+countrymen's arms over French treachery and Yankee hatred, diverted
+my thoughts, for the first time, from the melancholy subject of my
+late bereavement; the thoughts of which my solitude served rather to
+cherish than dispel.
+
+Having learned from the natives that a river fell into the bay,
+about eighty miles to the eastward, that offered greater facilities
+for carrying on the business in the interior than our present
+communication, I ordered the men who had assisted Mr. Erlandson,
+to descend by this river,--an enterprise which was successfully
+accomplished. Their report confirming that of the natives, I forthwith
+determined on establishing a post there; and the season being now
+far advanced, I had no sooner decided on the step than I set about
+carrying it into execution. A party was despatched with every
+requisite for the purpose, about the 15th of September; and I received
+a communication from them in October, informing me that they had
+discovered a convenient situation for erecting the buildings. The
+materials being found on the spot, and the men aware of the approach
+of winter, and straining every nerve to secure themselves against its
+rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were raised and already
+occupied.
+
+In the early part of winter, being, I may say, entirely alone,--for
+there remained only one man and an interpreter with me,--I amused
+myself by shooting partridges, which abounded in the neighbourhood
+that season; but the cold became so excessive as the winter advanced,
+that I was compelled to forego that amusement, and confine myself to
+the four walls of my prison, with the few books I possessed as my only
+companions. My despatches for the civilized world being completed, I
+was altogether at a loss how to forward them, as none of the natives
+could be induced, even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. At
+length one was found who consented to accompany one of my men to Mr.
+Erlandson's post, but no farther.
+
+My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had the mortification to
+learn on their return that the packet remained at the outpost,
+owing to an accident that befel one of the Indian guides, and which
+incapacitated him for the trip. Our friends would thus remain in
+ignorance of our fate for nearly two years. The report received
+regarding the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as far as the
+trade was concerned; but the privations suffered by those engaged in
+it, it was painful to learn; their sole subsistence consisted of fish,
+rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage it had sustained from
+the heat of the sun, and a few rabbits and partridges. Who would not
+be an Indian trader?
+
+Early in the month of March the rein-deer made their appearance again,
+and every countenance brightened up at the thoughts of the approaching
+pastime. I fell on a plan, however, that divested the sport of much
+of its attractions, although calculated to ensure greater success.
+A favourable position being selected, a certain extent of ground was
+fenced in so as to form a "pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap
+being left in it to admit the game from the river side. This done, I
+caused branches to be placed on the ice above and below the deer pass,
+which the animals observing, became alarmed, and running from side to
+side of the open space between the lines of branches, at length made a
+dash at the opposite side of the river, and entered the trap prepared
+for them at a gallop, continuing at the top of their speed until
+stopped by the upper part of the "pound," when they wheeled round, and
+making for the entrance, were received with a volley of balls from
+the huntsmen; a continual fire being kept up upon them in this manner
+until they all dropped.
+
+The scene presented by the slaughter was anything but agreeable, yet
+stern necessity compelled me to continue the butchery; and the success
+that attended my scheme far exceeded my expectations. The first herd
+that entered, in number about fifty, burst through the fence; but our
+works were immediately strengthened, so as to defy their efforts in
+future to escape. A herd of 300 was soon after entrapped, and in the
+course of two hours all were killed.
+
+Having thus obtained an ample stock of provisions, the different
+parties employed at the fishing and hunting stations were recalled,
+and preparations were begun for our summer campaign, in which I
+determined to take an active part. The favourable report of last
+summer respecting the East or George's River, combined with reports
+that had reached me since of another large river flowing a short
+distance to the south of Esquimaux Bay, suggested the possibility of
+carrying on our business on this line of communication. With the view,
+therefore, of carrying this design into effect, I had a boat built
+in the course of the winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew
+on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of ice at an earlier
+period; and sweeping down on the top of the current at railroad speed,
+reached the sea in about three hours.
+
+It being still early in the day, and no ice to be seen, we pulled for
+the opposite side of the bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The
+weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, and had proceeded
+about seven miles with every prospect of effecting our purpose,
+when lo! the tide was observed to be making against us; and the ice
+returning with it, apparently in a compact body, we were placed in
+rather a critical situation. The sun was declining, while the coast
+presented a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility of
+landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River.
+
+Towards that point, therefore, the head of the boat was directed, and
+the crew, seeing the imminence of the danger, rowed with all their
+might; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we made good our landing
+ere the ice closed in around us. A few minutes after not a speck of
+water could be descried.
+
+Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, leaving only a narrow
+strip of open water along the shore; into this channel we pushed our
+boat, and for some time made but little progress, being continually
+interrupted by pieces of ice, which the high tide detached from the
+shore. Our channel, however, soon widened, and in a short time not
+a particle of ice could be seen, disappearing as if by magic; for
+in a few minutes after it began to move, no traces of it could be
+discovered as far as the eye could reach to seaward. We reached East
+or George's River, without further interruption, on the 3d of July,
+where we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th.
+
+The post established here last autumn is situated in a still more
+cheerless spot than Fort Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills,
+whose sides are covered with the _débris_ of rock, which appears to
+have been detached from the hills by the process of decay. The post
+stands at the foot of one of those frightful hills, while another
+rises immediately in front; the intervening valleys, or cavities,
+present nothing to enliven the scene, save a few stunted pines, and
+here and there a patch of snow.
+
+The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region of sterility and desolation,
+at first appeared delighted with the idea of having whites among them:
+finding, however, that our presence yielded them no advantage, they
+soon became indifferent about us, and proceeded to the Moravian
+settlement with the produce of their hunts, where they obtained their
+little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed.
+
+My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted of ten able men; and
+an Indian guide accompanied us in his canoe. As we ascended, our
+difficulties increased at every step, the water being much lower than
+last year. I found myself engaged in a more laborious work than I had
+ever yet undertaken--towing the boat day after day against a current
+flowing in a continuous rapid, so as to admit of not one moment's
+relaxation, unless during the short interval allowed for rest to
+such as could take it--no easy matter when myriads of sand-flies and
+mosquitoes filled the air and tortured us incessantly.
+
+We continued to advance in this manner, hauling, pulling, carrying,
+and even launching the boat for about fifteen days, when we reached
+an expansion of the river, without any perceptible current, and
+sufficiently deep to admit of the use of the oar.
+
+Our labour was now supposed to be at an end by those who had explored
+the river; no further doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching
+Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends and news from all
+quarters would reward us for all our toils. Let not him who knows not
+what it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and the great
+world, year after year, think lightly of the reward which the solitary
+trader, in his remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, however,
+were soon dissipated. Having reached the upper extremity of the
+still water, we encountered difficulties that defied every attempt to
+surmount.
+
+The lake just referred to proved to be the source of the lower
+stream; the rivulet that flowed into it from above being so shallow
+as scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. It was therefore
+impossible to proceed with the boat, a circumstance that placed me in
+a rather perplexing position; for I had the outfit for the interior in
+charge, without which the business, so lately established with every
+prospect of success, would fail.
+
+There was, however, no time to be lost in vain regrets; the advanced
+period of the season required instant decision, and our stock
+of provisions was diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on
+proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe belonging to our guide,
+taking two of the men with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to
+erect a temporary post; and in the mean time sent my guide to apprize
+the Indians in the vicinity of the steps I had taken to supply their
+wants next winter.
+
+These arrangements completed, I embarked in an eggshell of a canoe, so
+small as not to admit of anything save the smallest possible supply
+of provisions,--tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. Soon after leaving
+our encampment, we came to a portage some ten miles in length, and
+struck the river again, where, from the report of the men, I expected
+no further difficulties would impede our progress. But the event did
+not answer my expectations; from the continual drought of the season
+the water proved so low that we had to drag along our canoe, wading in
+the water, where a boat would have passed with ease last year. In this
+manner we continued our toilsome voyage without relaxation for several
+days, carrying our canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the water
+from early dawn until late at night, when we threw ourselves down
+on the ground to pass the night without shelter from the weather
+or protection from the stings of our merciless persecutors the
+mosquitoes, who pursued their avocation with unwearied assiduity,
+so that our rest was small, and that little afforded us but scanty
+refreshment.
+
+Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of the route, was
+rendered still slower by our frequent deviations from our course; my
+guides having paid but little attention to their instructions last
+year. We at length reached the post on the 16th of August, half
+starved, half naked, and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the
+good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our spirits, if not our
+"inexpressibles;" and although much annoyed that no Indians could
+be induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I determined on making the
+attempt with such assistance as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was
+well acquainted with the upper part of the river.
+
+After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe sufficiently large to
+contain several conveniences, to which I had been for some time a
+stranger,--a tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us by
+day; we fared, too, like princes, on the produce of "sea and land,"
+procured by the net and the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our
+downward course without meeting any interruption, or experiencing any
+difficulty in finding our way; when, one evening, the roar of a mighty
+cataract burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was at hand.
+We soon reached the spot, which presented to us one of the grandest
+spectacles in the world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our
+enterprise.
+
+About six miles above the fall the river suddenly contracts, from a
+width of from four hundred to six hundred yards, to about one hundred
+yards; then rushing along in a continuous foaming rapid, finally
+contracts to a breadth of about fifty yards, ere it precipitates
+itself over the rock which forms the fall; when, still roaring and
+foaming, it continues its maddened course for about a distance of
+thirty miles, pent up between walls of rock that rise sometimes to
+the height of three hundred feet on either side. This stupendous fall
+exceeds in height the Falls of Niagara, but bears no comparison to
+that sublime object in any other respect, being nearly hidden from the
+view by the abrupt angle which the rocks form immediately beneath it.
+If not seen, however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary force with
+which it tumbles into the abyss underneath, that we felt the solid
+rock shake under our feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the
+gulf. A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at a great distance
+in clear weather, hangs over the spot. From the fall to the foot of
+the rapid--a distance of thirty miles--the zigzag course of the river
+presents such sharp angles, that you see nothing of it until within a
+few yards of its banks. Might not this circumstance lead the geologist
+to the conclusion that the fall had receded this distance? The mind
+shrinks from the contemplation of a subject that carries it back to
+a period of time so very remote; for if the rock,--syenite, always
+possessed its present solidity and hardness, the action of the water
+alone might require millions of years to produce such a result!
+
+After carrying our canoe and baggage for a whole day through bogs, and
+swamps, and windfalls, in the hope of finding the river accessible, we
+at length gave up the attempt; and with heavy hearts and weary limbs
+retracing our steps, we reached the outpost, without accident, after
+an absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible to remove either
+the returns, or the small quantity of goods remaining on hand, I
+determined on leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter here;
+and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to assume the charge of the temporary
+post, where I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the 1st of
+September, and I was delighted at finding my men living in the midst
+of abundance;--the surrounding country apparently abounding with
+rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of the best quality. I remained
+with the men two days to expedite the buildings which were yet
+unfinished; and in the meantime a party of Indians arrived, whom we
+persuaded to carry our despatches to Esquimaux Bay.
+
+After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erlandson with two men to
+share his solitude, and reached the sea without experiencing any
+adventure worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, I was induced, one
+evening, by the flattering appearance of the weather, to attempt the
+passage of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there was little
+danger of being delayed afterwards by stress of weather. This step I
+soon had cause to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth surface;
+not a breath of wind was felt, and the stars shone out brightly. A few
+clouds began to appear on the horizon; and the boat began to rise
+and fall with the heaving of the sea. Understanding what these signs
+portended, we immediately pulled for the shore; but had scarcely
+altered our course when the stars disappeared, a tremendous noise
+struck upon our ears from seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the
+impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace of land could be
+discovered; but we continued to ply our oars, while each succeeding
+billow threatened immediate destruction.
+
+The horrors of our situation increased; the man on the out-look
+called out that he saw breakers a-head in every direction, and escape
+appeared to be next to impossible. My crew of Scottish Islanders,
+however, continued their painful exertions without evincing the
+apprehensions they must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was now at
+hand. We approached so near to the breakers that it was impossible to
+avoid them; and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next moment
+would be their last.
+
+In such a situation the thoughts of even the most depraved naturally
+carry them beyond the limits of time; and by these thoughts, I
+believe, the soul of every one was absorbed; yet the men lost not
+their presence of mind. Suddenly, the voice of the look-out was heard
+amid the roar of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark breach
+in the line of foam that stretched out before us, which he fancied to
+be a channel between the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought us
+to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we found it to answer the
+man's conjecture; but, so narrow was the passage, that the oars on
+both sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute afterwards we found
+ourselves becalmed and in safety. The boat being moored, and the men
+ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, as we best could,
+supperless, and without having tasted food since early dawn.
+
+The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morning; but we found, to
+our great satisfaction, that we had entered a kind of channel that
+lay along the shore, where we were protected from the storm by the
+innumerable rocky islets that stretched along the mainland. Regarding
+the labyrinth of islands through which we had effected a passage
+in the darkness, we were struck with wonder at our escape; and felt
+convinced that the hand of Providence alone could have guided us
+through such perils in safety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF HUDSON'S STRAIT, ON
+    A RAFT--DESPATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR--DISTRESS OF THE
+    ESQUIMAUX--FORWARD PROVISIONS TO MR. E----. RETURN OF THE
+    PARTY--THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION.
+
+
+We reached Fort Chimo on the 20th September. A greater number of
+Esquimaux were assembled about the post than I had yet seen; and among
+them I was astonished to find a family from the north side of the
+Strait, and still more astonished when I learned the way they had
+crossed--a raft formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along the
+shore, afforded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise.
+
+On questioning them what was their object in risking their lives in
+so extraordinary an adventure, they replied, that they wanted wood to
+make canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait.
+
+"And what if you had been overtaken by a storm?" said I.
+
+"We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply.
+
+In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, a storm having come on
+just as they landed on the first island.
+
+The fact of these people having crossed Hudson's Strait on so rude
+and frail a conveyance, strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion
+that America was originally peopled from Asia. The Asiatic side of
+Behring's Strait affording timber sufficiently large for the purpose
+of building boats or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in
+supposing that, when once in possession of that wonderful and useful
+invention--a boat, they might be induced, even by curiosity--that
+powerful stimulus to adventure--to visit the nearest island, and from
+thence proceed to the continent of America; and finding it, perhaps,
+possessed of superior advantages to the shores they had left, settle
+there. My voyageur was evidently induced as much by curiosity as by
+the desire of procuring a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's
+Strait, where the passage is as wide as between the island in
+Behring's Strait and the two continents.
+
+At an early period of the winter I was gratified by the arrival of
+despatches from the civilized world. The packet was found by the
+Indians at Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and forwarded to me
+by Mr. Erlandson's two men. By his letters I was grieved to learn that
+starvation stared him in the face; the fishing, that promised so well
+when I passed, having entirely failed, and no deer were to be found.
+He wrote me, however, that he would maintain his post while a piece of
+parchment remained to gnaw!
+
+The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of the Governor and
+Committee for my "laudable exertions;" while his Excellency intimated,
+in language not to be misunderstood, that my promotion depended on my
+successful management of the affairs of Ungava, "which he regretted to
+find were still in an unpromising state."
+
+What effect this announcement had on my feelings need not be
+mentioned--after a painful servitude of eighteen years thus to
+be compelled to make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere I
+obtained the reward of my toil, while many others had reached the
+goal in a much shorter time without experiencing either hardship or
+privation,--the injustice I had suffered, or the deceit that had been
+practised on _me_. As a balm to my wounded feelings, my correspondents
+in the north informed me that seven clerks had been promoted since I
+left Norway House.
+
+Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a preceding page passed the
+winter in this quarter, not daring to return in consequence of an
+hostile rencontre they had had with some of their own tribes on their
+way hither. The quarrel, like most Indian quarrels, originated in an
+attempt to carry off women: both parties had recourse to arms, and
+a desperate struggle ensued, in which our visitors were completely
+defeated, with the loss of several lives.
+
+They remained about the post for a short time, admiring its wonderful
+novelties--wonderful to them--and then proceeded some distance up the
+river to waylay the deer that had already crossed unobserved by them.
+The poor creatures, unaware of this fact, remained on the ground until
+every article that afforded any kind of sustenance was consumed; when
+they started for the post, leaving the weaker of the party to follow
+as they best could. They all arrived the same day except two widows,
+who had lost their husbands in the fray. I sent off two young men with
+a supply of provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having devoured
+the food, returned without the women, although I had previously
+supplied their own wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own men,
+accompanied by an Esquimaux; but, as might have been expected, the
+women were found lying dead on the ice near each other.
+
+Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly request any assistance
+from me, the report he communicated as to the failure of provisions
+was sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours to relieve his
+wants. With this view I hired an Indian lad to act as guide to a party
+whom I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. The guide
+assured me they would perform the journey, going and coming, in a
+month. The appointed period passed, and no accounts of them; and week
+after week, until I at last despaired of ever seeing them in life.
+At the end of about two months they made their appearance, but in
+so deplorable a state of emaciation that we could scarcely recognise
+them.
+
+The roads proved so bad that they were nearly a month on their way
+going, and consequently they had consumed almost all the provisions
+they had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty supply not
+allowing him to afford them any assistance for their return, they
+commenced their journey homeward with one meal a day, which they
+continued until all was gone, when they fed on their dogs; and they
+finally arrived at the house without having tasted any kind of food
+for three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the greatest pity;
+the interpreter, who came to tell me of their arrival, was in tears.
+No time was lost in administering relief; but the greatest caution
+was necessary in administering it, or the consequences might have been
+fatal.
+
+I was mortified to find, on the approach of spring, that my stock of
+goods did not admit of supplying the interior; and I was consequently
+compelled to relinquish the advantages that had cost us so much to
+acquire. Without goods we could not, of course, maintain our position
+in that quarter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY--GOVERNOR'S INSTRUCTIONS--MY REPORT
+    TO THE COMMITTEE--RECOMMEND THE ABANDONMENT OF UNGAVA
+    SETTLEMENT--SUCCESS OF THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED
+    BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON--RETURN BY SEA TO FORT
+    CHIMO--NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER--INHUMAN
+    AND IMPOLITIC MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR--CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT
+    THE POST.
+
+
+Immediately on the opening of the navigation I started for Esquimaux
+Bay, with two Indians, in a small canoe, and without any of the
+usual conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered to the southern
+department, followed in another canoe.
+
+Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the receipt of despatches
+just come to hand by the ship. The Governor's letter apprized me
+that a vessel would be sent round to Ungava every alternate year; and
+strictly enjoined me to have no further communication with Esquimaux
+Bay _overland_, "as much unnecessary expense was incurred by these
+journeys." Thus were we consigned to our fate for a period of two
+years with as little feeling as if we had been so many cattle, and
+debarred from all communication with our friends, by word or letter,
+merely to save a trifling expense!
+
+Could the Honourable Company be swayed by so paltry a consideration in
+subjecting us to so grievous an inconvenience? Surely not; a body of
+men so respectable could neither have authorized nor sanctioned such
+sordid parsimony. The generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson
+alone, and to him be the honour ascribed.
+
+Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the utter hopelessness of the
+Ungava adventure, I transmitted a report to the Governor and Committee
+on the subject; recommending the abandonment of the settlement
+altogether, as the enormous expense of supplying us by sea precluded
+the idea of any profit being ever realised; while it was quite evident
+the Company's benevolent views toward the Esquimaux could not be
+carried into effect. The extreme poverty and barrenness of their
+country, and their pertinacious adherence to their seal-skin dresses,
+which no argument of ours could induce them to exchange for the
+less comfortable articles of European clothing, were insurmountable
+obstacles. The Honourable Company, while they wished to supply the
+wants of the Esquimaux, still urged the expediency of securing the
+trade of the interior.
+
+A circumstance that came to my knowledge in the course of the winter
+promised the attainment of that object. I learned from an old Indian,
+that the fall and rapid I met with on my way to the sea the preceding
+season, could be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. My
+informant had never seen those falls himself, and could, from the
+oral report he had heard, give but a very imperfect description of the
+route. Still, I determined on making another attempt to explore the
+whole river, knowing well, that if I succeeded in discovering the new
+route, there could be no further difficulty in supplying the interior.
+Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by letters from my friend Mr.
+Dease, that the expedition in which he had been engaged was crowned
+with success;--the long sought-after north-west passage being at
+length laid open to the _knowledge_ of mankind, and a question, that
+at one time excited the enterprise of the merchant and the curiosity
+of the learned, settled beyond a doubt.
+
+While on this subject, I cannot help expressing my surprise at the
+manner Mr. Dease's name is mentioned in the published narrative of
+the expedition, where he is represented as being employed merely
+as purveyor. It might have been said with equal propriety that Mr.
+Simpson was employed merely as astronomer. The fact is, the services
+of both gentlemen were equally necessary; and to the prudence,
+judgment, and experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of
+the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no less than to the
+astronomical science of Mr. Simpson.
+
+Having finished my correspondence, I embarked for Fort Chimo, on board
+a brig that had been recently built for the trade of this district
+and that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded no adventure worthy of
+notice; icebergs we saw in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us,
+but having no desire to form a close acquaintance with them, we kept
+at a respectful distance; and finally entered the Ungava River, on the
+24th of August, at so early an hour of the day, that we expected to
+reach the post ere night-fall.
+
+We were doomed to disappointment. As we ascended the river, the breeze
+fell, and darkness set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Presently,
+however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing could be seen a yard
+off. In this dilemma our safest course would have been to anchor,
+but unfortunately that part of the river was the most unfavourable
+possible for our purpose, from the extraordinary strength of the
+current, and the rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed quite
+at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel struck, altered her course
+a little, struck again, put about, and struck again and again. The
+anchor was dropped as the only chance of escaping the dangers in which
+we were involved. The anchor dragged a short time, and finally caught
+apparently in a cleft of the rocks.
+
+Soon after the tide began to flow, and we fancied our dangers over;
+but the crisis was not yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down
+with the current of the river with such overwhelming velocity, that
+we expected the vessel would be torn from her moorings. Two men were
+placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, in spite of their utmost
+exertions, she was dashed from side to side like a feather, while
+the current pitched into her till the water entered the hawse-holes.
+Pitching, and swinging, and dashed about in this fearful manner for
+some time, the anchor was at length disengaged, and dragged along the
+bottom with a grating noise, which, with the roaring of the rapid, and
+the whistling of the wind through the rigging, formed a combination
+of sounds that would have appalled the most resolute. The fog having
+cleared away, we discovered a point projecting far into the river,
+some two hundred yards below, towards which we were drifting
+broadside, and rapidly nearing. The boats were got ready, to escape,
+if possible, the impending catastrophe, when the vessel was suddenly
+brought to with a tremendous jerk, and instantly swung round to the
+tide. By this time, however, its strength was considerably abated, and
+daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esquimaux who had come on board,
+with a note to the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent us
+with the utmost despatch.
+
+Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we weighed anchor, and
+advanced to within three miles of the establishment, when a boat was
+seen approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On coming along-side,
+a rope was thrown to them, and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the
+men had scrambled on board, when a sudden blast swelled our sails, and
+propelled us through the water with such force, that the fore-part
+of the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men floundering in the
+water, and the other clinging to the rope. The latter was dragged on
+board, severely bruised; but the former remained in the water for at
+least two hours, and would have perished before our eyes, had he not
+got hold of a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep himself
+afloat. We soon anchored opposite the post, and every exertion being
+made to expedite the departure of the vessel, we were in the course of
+a few days left to vegetate in quiet.
+
+On examining the quantity of provisions I had received, I was not a
+little alarmed to find it scarcely sufficient for the consumption of
+one year, his Excellency's communication having acquainted me that
+it was a supply for two years! Thus we were thrown on the precarious
+resources of the country for life or for death; for if those resources
+should fail us, we must either remain and starve on the spot, or,
+abandoning the settlement, endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay and
+run the risk of starving by the way. Economy so ill-timed argued
+as little in favour of the Governor's judgment as of his humanity.
+Admitting our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandonment
+of the settlement, with all the goods and furs in it, would have
+subjected the Company to a very serious loss. Every precaution,
+however, was taken to provide against a contingency which involved
+such serious consequences; the men were dispersed in every direction
+to shift for themselves, some being supplied with guns and ammunition,
+others with nets, a lake of considerable extent having been lately
+discovered, which the natives reported to abound with fish. Early
+in the month of December my fishermen came in with the mortifying
+intelligence of the entire failure of the fishery; and soon after
+a messenger arrived from the hunting party to beg a supply of
+provisions, which my limited means, alas! compelled me to deny. Not
+a deer had been seen, and the partridges had become so scarce of late
+that they barely afforded the means of sustaining life. All I could
+therefore do for my poor men was to supply them with more ammunition
+and send them off again.
+
+While their lot was thus wretched, mine was not enviable; one solitary
+meal a day was all I allowed myself and those who remained with me;
+and I must do them the justice to say, that they submitted to
+these privations without a murmur, being aware that it was only by
+exercising the most rigid economy that our provisions could hold
+out the allotted time; the arrival of the ship being an event too
+uncertain to be calculated upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner,
+we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, without expending much
+of our imported provisions, until the arrival of the deer in the month
+of March, when we fared plentifully if not sumptuously.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION--MY PROMOTION--WINTER AT
+    CHIMO--OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN--UNGAVA ABANDONED.
+
+
+1841.--On the opening of the navigation I set out on another exploring
+expedition. Without entering into particulars so devoid of interest,
+I would merely observe that, with patience and perseverance, we
+ultimately succeeded in making good our passage by the Hamilton, or
+Grand River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect.
+
+On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the vessel from Quebec riding
+at anchor--a joyful sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear
+from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence of the events
+that had occurred in the world for the last twelve months. The
+Governor's communication acquainted me with my promotion, and
+_sincerely_ congratulated me on the event. Whether I had reason or not
+to doubt his sincerity, let the reader judge who knows the treatment I
+had experienced at his hands. Fifteen years ago I was assured of being
+in the "direct road to preferment,"--twenty years of toil and misery
+have I served to obtain it.
+
+Considering myself, therefore, under no obligation to his Excellency,
+I addressed a letter to the Directors, expressing my thanks for the
+benefit they had conferred upon me, and requesting permission to visit
+the land of my nativity next year.
+
+I was fortunate enough to find a couple of canoes at Esquimaux Bay,
+sufficiently large to admit of conveying an outfit to the interior,
+and equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman in charge of
+the district, possessed the will and ability to promote my views. All
+my arrangements at this place being completed, I set off on my return,
+and was happy to find, on my arrival at the outpost, that the outfit
+was rendered in safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on
+the way.
+
+I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of October. The dreary winter
+setting in immediately, we commenced the usual course of vegetative
+existence; and I consider it as unnecessary as it would be
+uninteresting to say anything further concerning it than that this
+season passed without our being subjected to such grievous privation
+as during the last. The greater part of the people being distributed
+among the outposts, reduced our expenditure of provisions so much,
+that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the score of starvation; and
+the precautions I had taken the preceding winter enabled us not only
+to indulge occasionally in the _luxuries_ of bread-and-butter, but
+also to contemplate the possibility of the non-arrival of the ship
+without much anxiety.
+
+1842.--On the opening of the navigation I again set out for Esquimaux
+Bay, where I found letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome
+intelligence that my request for permission to visit Britain had been
+granted, and that the Directors, agreeably to my recommendation, had
+determined on abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered round this
+season to convey the people and property to Esquimaux Bay.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+    CLIMATE OF UNGAVA--AURORA BOREALIS--SOIL--VEGETABLE
+    PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--BIRDS--FISH--GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
+
+
+It need scarcely be observed that, in so high a latitude as that
+of Ungava, the climate presents the extremes of heat and cold; the
+moderate temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, the rigour of
+winter being immediately succeeded by the intense heat of summer, and
+_vice versá_.
+
+On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer was observed to rise from
+10° below zero to 76° in the shade, the sky clear and the weather
+calm; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. For ten days
+previously the thermometer ranged from 15° below zero to 32° above,
+and the weather was as boisterous as in the month of January, snowing
+and blowing furiously all the time. The heat continued to increase,
+till the thermometer frequently exhibited from 85° to 100° in the
+shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, be owing in a considerable
+degree to the reflection of the solar rays from the rocky surface of
+the country, a great part of which is destitute of vegetation. When
+the wind blows from the sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to
+become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are frequently experienced
+during summer, and are probably caused by the sea's being always
+encumbered by ice. It is remarkable that the severest cold in this
+quarter is invariably accompanied by stormy weather; whereas, in the
+interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm.
+
+The winter may be said to commence in October; by the end of this
+month the ground is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller
+lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, however, and the
+strength of the current, often keep Ungava River open till the month
+of January. At this period I have neither seen, read, nor heard of
+any locality under heaven that can offer a more cheerless abode to
+civilized man than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by the ice, when
+driven to and fro by the force of the tide, continually stuns the ear;
+while the light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs in the air,
+shrouding everything in the gloom of a dark twilight. If Pluto should
+leave his own gloomy mansion _in tenebris tartari_, he might take up
+his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange.
+
+  "The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs
+  The effect of fire."--MILTON.
+
+When the river sets fast, the beauties of the winter scene are
+disclosed--one continuous surface of glaring snow, with here and there
+a clump of dwarf pine, of the bald summits of barren hills, from
+which the violence of the winter storms sweep away even the tenacious
+lichens. The winter storms are the most violent I ever experienced,
+sweeping every thing before them; and often prove fatal to the Indians
+when overtaken by them in places where no shelter can be found. The
+year previous to my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to a
+barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking their women along
+with them. While engaged in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them
+to make for the mainland with all possible speed. The women were soon
+exhausted by their exertions, and, unable to proceed farther, were
+at length covered by the snow, and left to their fate. As soon as the
+fury of the storm abated, the men went in search of them; but in vain;
+they were never found.
+
+During winter the sky is frequently illuminated by the Aurora Borealis
+even in the day-time; and I have observed that when the south wind,
+the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, the frost-bound
+regions of Canada and Labrador,) blows for any length of time, the sky
+becomes clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, however, does the
+east wind blow, which, being charged with the vapours of the Atlantic,
+induces mild weather even in midwinter, than they again dart forth
+their coruscations--more brightly at first, afterwards more faintly,
+till, if the wind continue, they again disappear.
+
+These phenomena seem to warrant the conclusion that the aurora is
+produced by the evolving of the electric fluid, through the collision
+of bodies of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are observable in
+New Caledonia; the east wind, passing over the glaciers of the Rocky
+Mountains, cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to cause frost
+every month in summer; the west wind, on the contrary, causes heat;
+and there, as in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by what may
+be termed the Mountain Aurora (_Aurora Montium_?)
+
+During my residence of five years at Ungava, the thermometer fell
+twice to 53° below zero; and frequently ranged from 38° to 48° for
+several days together; the extreme heat rose to 100° at noon in the
+shade.
+
+The soil of Ungava consists principally of decayed lichens, which form
+a substance resembling the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In this
+soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant which I have not seen in
+any other part of the continent, although it may elsewhere be found in
+similar situations. In the low grounds along the banks of rivers, the
+soil is generally deep and fertile enough to produce timber of a large
+size; in the valleys are found clumps of wood, which become more and
+more stunted as they creep up the sides of the sterile hills, till at
+length they degenerate into lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the
+sea-coast consist entirely of larch; which also predominates in the
+interior, intermixed with white pine, and a few poplars and birches.
+The hardy willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle of soil
+to take root in; and the plant denominated Labrador tea, flourishes
+luxuriantly in its native soil. In favourable seasons the country
+is covered with every variety of berries--blueberry, cranberry,
+gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry, ground raspberry
+(_rubus arcticus_), and the billberry (_rubus chamæmorus_), a
+delicious fruit produced in the swamps, and bearing some resemblance
+to the strawberry in shape, but different in flavour and colour, being
+yellow when ripe. Liquorice root is found on the banks of South River.
+
+To enumerate the varieties of animals is an easy task; the extremely
+barren nature of the country, and the severity of the climate, prove
+so unfavourable to the animal kingdom, that only a few of the more
+hardy species are to be found here: viz.--
+
+Black, brown, grisly, and polar bears.
+
+Black, silver, cross, blue, red, and white foxes.
+
+Wolves, wolverines, martens, and the beaver (but extremely rare).
+
+Otters, minks, musk-rats, ermine.
+
+Arctic hares, rabbits, rein-deer; and the lemming, in some parts of
+the interior.
+
+When we consider the great extent of country that intervenes between
+Ungava and the plains of the "far west," it seems quite inexplicable
+that the grisly bear should be found in so insulated a situation,
+and none in the intermediate country: the fact of their being here,
+however, does not admit of a doubt, for I have traded and sent to
+England several of their skins. The information I have received from
+the natives induces me to think that the varieties of colour in bears
+mark them as distinct species, and not the produce of the same litter,
+as some writers affirm. Why, otherwise, do we not find the different
+varieties in Canada, where the grisly bear has never been seen? The
+sagacious animals seem to be well aware of their generic affinity,
+since they are often seen together, sharing the same carcass, and
+apparently on terms of the most intimate fellowship.
+
+It is a singular circumstance, that she-bears with young are seldom
+or never killed; at least it is so extraordinary a circumstance, that
+when it does happen, it is spoken of for years afterwards. She must,
+therefore, retire to her den immediately after impregnation; and
+cannot go above three months with young; as instances have occurred
+of their being found suckling their young in the month of January, at
+which period they are not larger than the common house-rat, presenting
+the appearance of animals in embryo, yet perfect in all their parts.
+
+Bruin prepares his hybernal dormitory with great care, lining it with
+hay, and stopping up the entrance with the same material; he enters it
+in October, and comes out in the month of April. He passes the winter
+alone, in a state of morbid drowsiness, from which he is roused
+with difficulty; and neither eats nor drinks, but seems to derive
+nourishment from sucking his paws. He makes his exit in spring
+apparently in as good condition as when he entered; but a few days'
+exposure to the air reduces him to skin and bone.
+
+The natives pay particular attention to the appearance presented by
+the unoccupied dens they may discover in summer: if bruin has removed
+his litter of the preceding winter, he intends to reoccupy the same
+quarters; if he allows it to remain, he never returns; and the hunter
+takes his measures accordingly.
+
+The black bear shuns the presence of man, and is by no means
+a dangerous animal; the grisly bear, on the contrary, commands
+considerable respect from the "lord of the creation," whom he attacks
+without hesitation. By the natives, the paw of a grisly bear is
+considered as honourable a trophy as the scalp of a human enemy.
+
+The reports I have had, both from natives and white trappers, confirm
+the opinion that certain varieties of the fox belong to the same
+species,--such as the black, silver, cross, and red; all of which have
+been found in the same nest, but never any of the white or blue. The
+former, too, are distinguished for their cunning and sagacity; while
+the latter are very stupid, and fall an easy prey to the trapper; a
+circumstance of itself sufficient to prove a difference of species.
+
+There are two varieties of the rein-deer,--the migratory, and the
+stationary or wood-deer: the latter is a much larger animal, but not
+abundant; the former are extremely numerous, migrating in herds at
+particular seasons, and observing certain laws on their march, from
+which they seldom deviate. The does make their appearance at Ungava
+River generally in the beginning of March, coming from the west, and
+directing their course over the barren grounds near the coast, until
+they reach George's River, where they halt to bring forth their young,
+in the month of June. Meantime the bucks, being divided into separate
+herds, pursue a direct course through the interior, for the same
+river, and remain scattered about on the upper parts of it until the
+month of September, when they assemble, and proceed slowly towards
+the coast. By this time the does move onward towards the interior, the
+fawns having now sufficient strength to accompany them, and follow the
+banks of George's River until they meet the bucks, when the rutting
+season commences, in the month of October; the whole then proceed
+together, through the interior, to the place whence they came. In the
+same manner, I have been informed, the deer perform their migratory
+circuits everywhere; observing the same order on their march,
+following nearly the same route unless prevented by accidental
+circumstances, and observing much the same periods of arrival and
+departure.
+
+The colour of the rein-deer is uniformly the same, presenting no
+variety of "spotted black and red." In summer it is a very dark grey,
+approaching to black, and light grey in winter. The colour of the doe
+is of a darker shade than that of the buck, whose breast is perfectly
+white in winter. Individuals are seen of a white colour at all seasons
+of the year. The bucks shed their antlers in the month of December;
+the does in the month of January. A few bucks are sometimes to be
+met with who roam about apart from the larger herds, and are in prime
+condition both in summer and winter. These _solitaires_ are said to be
+unsuccessful candidates for the favours of the does, who, having
+been worsted by their more powerful rivals in _contentione amoris_,
+withdraw from the community, and assuming the cowl, ever after eschew
+female society; an opinion which their good condition at all seasons
+seems to corroborate.
+
+The rein-deer is subject to greater annoyance from flies than any
+other animal in the creation; neither change of season nor situation
+exempts them from this torture. Their great persecutor is a species
+of gad-fly, (_oestries tarandi_,) that hovers around them in clouds
+during summer, and makes them the instruments of their own torture
+throughout the year. The fly, after piercing the skin of the deer,
+deposits its eggs between the outer and inner skin, where they are
+hatched by the heat of the animal's body. In the month of March, the
+chrysalides burst through the skin, and drop on the ground, when they
+may be seen crawling in immense numbers along the deer paths as they
+pass from west to east.
+
+The only birds observed in winter are grouse, ptarmigan, a small
+species of wood-pecker, butcher-bird, and the diminutive tomtit. We
+are visited in summer by swans, geese, ducks, eagles, hawks, ravens,
+owls, robins, and swallows. The eider-duck, so much prized for its
+down, is found in considerable numbers. The geese are of a most
+inferior kind, owing, I suppose, to the poor feeding the country
+affords; when they arrive in summer the ice is often still solid, when
+they betake themselves to the hills, and feed on berries.
+
+The lakes produce only white fish, trout and carp. We took now and
+then a few salmon in the river, and there is no doubt that this fish
+abounds on the coast.
+
+In the sea are found the black whale, porpoise, sea-horse, seal, and
+the narwal or sea unicorn; the horn of the latter, solid ivory, is a
+beautiful object. The largest I procured measured six feet and a half
+in length, four inches in diameter at the root, and a quarter of an
+inch at the point. It is of a spiral form, and projects from near the
+extremity of the snout; it presents a most singular appearance when
+seen moving along above the surface of the water, while the animal is
+concealed beneath.
+
+The geological features of the country present so little variety, that
+one versed in that interesting science would experience but little
+difficulty in describing them; a mere outline, however, is all I can
+venture to present.
+
+Along the sea-coast the formation is granitic syenite; then,
+proceeding about forty miles in the direction of South River, syenite
+occurs, which, about sixty miles higher up, runs into green stone:
+very fine slate succeeds. At the height of land dividing the waters
+that flow in different directions, into Esquimaux and Ungava Bays, the
+formation becomes syenitic schist, and continues so to within a short
+distance of the great fall on Hamilton River; when syenite succeeds;
+then gneiss; and along the shores of Esquimaux Bay syenitic gneiss,
+and pure quartz: lumps of black and red hornblend are met with
+everywhere. The country is covered with boulders rounded off by the
+action of water, most of which are different from the rocks _in situ_,
+and must have been transported from a great distance, some being of
+granite--a rock not to be found in this quarter.
+
+The rugged and precipitous banks of George's River are occasionally
+surmounted by hills; at the base of all these elevations, deep
+horizontal indentures appear running in parallel lines opposite each
+other on either side of the river,--a circumstance which indicates the
+action of tides and waves at a time when the other parts of the land
+were submerged, and the tops of those hills formed islands. Along
+certain parts of the coast of Labrador rows of boulders are perceived
+lying in horizontal lines; the lowest about two hundred yards distant
+from high-water mark, while the farthest extend to near the crest of
+the adjacent hills. Several deep cavities and embankments of sand are
+observed in the interior, bearing unequivocal marks of having been, at
+one time, subject to the influence of the sea.
+
+I shall conclude these few remarks by observing that, whatever
+conclusions the geologist may arrive at as to the remote or recent
+elevation of this country, the tops of the higher hills appear to have
+been formerly islands in the sea; and I doubt not but the same may
+be said of the higher lands on every part of the Arctic regions.
+Admitting this to have been the case, it contributes to confirm the
+theory of that distinguished philosopher, Sir Charles Lyell, as to
+the cause of the changes that have taken place in the climate of the
+northern regions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    THE NASCOPIES--THEIR RELIGION--MANNERS AND
+    CUSTOMS--CLOTHING--MARRIAGE--COMMUNITY OF GOODS.
+
+
+The Indians inhabiting the interior of Ungava, or, it may be said with
+equal propriety, the interior of Labrador, are a tribe of the Cree
+nation designated Nascopies, and numbering about one hundred men able
+to bear arms. Their language, a dialect of the Cree or Cristeneau,
+exhibits a considerable mixture of Sauteux words, with a few peculiar
+to themselves. The Nascopies have the same religious belief as their
+kindred tribes in every other part of the continent. They believe in
+the existence of a Supreme Being, the Ruler of the universe, and the
+Author of all good. They believe, also, in the existence of a bad
+spirit, the author of all evil. Each is believed to be served by a
+number of subordinate spirits. Sacrifices are offered to each; to the
+good, by way of supplication and gratitude; to the evil, by way of
+conciliation and deprecation. Their local genii are also supposed to
+be possessed of the power of doing good, or inflicting evil, and are
+likewise propitiated by sacrifices; the "men of medicine" are viewed
+in nearly the same light. A few of them who visit the king's posts,
+have been baptized, and taught to mutter something they call prayers,
+and on this account are esteemed good Christians by their tutors;
+while every action of their lives proves them to be as much Pagans as
+ever; at least, to those who look for some _fruit_ of faith, and who
+may be ignorant of the miraculous efficacy of holy water, and can form
+no idea of its operation on the soul, they appear so.
+
+Of all the Indians I have seen, the Nascopies seem most averse to
+locomotion; many of them grow up to man's estate without once visiting
+a trading post. Previously to the establishment of this post they were
+wont to assemble at a certain rendezvous in the interior, and deliver
+their furs to some elderly man of the party, who proceeded with
+them to the King's posts, or Esquimaux Bay, and traded them for such
+articles as they required. So little intercourse have this people had
+with the whites, that they may be still considered as unsophisticated
+"children of nature," and possessed, of course, of all the virtues
+ascribed to such; yet I must say, that my acquaintance with them
+disclosed nothing that impressed me with a higher opinion of them than
+of my own race, corrupted as they are by the arts of civilized life.
+
+The Nascopie freely indulges all the grosser passions of his nature;
+he has no term in his language to express the sensation of shame; the
+feeling and the word are alike unknown. Many circumstances might be
+adduced in proof of this, but I have no desire to disgust the reader.
+Previously to our arrival here, there was not such an article of
+domestic utility known among them as a spoon; the unclean hand
+performed every office. They take their meals sitting in a circle
+round a kettle, and commence operations by skimming off the fat with
+their hands, and lapping it up like dogs; then every one helps himself
+to the solids, cutting, gnawing, and tearing until the whole is
+devoured, or until repletion precludes further exertions, when, like
+the gorged beast of prey, they lie down to sleep.
+
+The Nascopies practise polygamy more from motives of convenience than
+any other--the more wives, the more slaves. The poor creatures, in
+fact, are in a state of relentless slavery; every species of drudgery
+devolves upon them. When they remove from camp to camp in winter, the
+women set out first, dragging sledges loaded with their effects, and
+such of the children as are incapable of walking; meantime the men
+remain in the abandoned encampment smoking their pipes, until they
+suppose the women are sufficiently far advanced on the route to reach
+the new encampment ere they overtake them.
+
+Arrived at the spot, the women clear the ground of snow, erect the
+tents, and collect fuel; and when their arrangements are completed,
+their lords step in to enjoy themselves. The sole occupation of the
+men is hunting, and, in winter, fishing. They do not even carry home
+the game; that duty also falls to the lot of the female, unless when
+the family has been starving for some time, when the men condescend to
+carry home enough for immediate use.
+
+The horrid practice still obtains among the Nascopies of destroying
+their parents and relatives, when old age incapacitates them for
+further exertion. I must, however, do them the justice to say, that
+the parent himself expresses a wish to depart, otherwise the unnatural
+deed would probably never be committed; for they in general treat
+their old people with much care and tenderness. The son or nearest
+relative performs the office of executioner,--the self-devoted victim
+being disposed of by strangulation.[1] When any one dies in winter,
+the body is placed on a scaffold till summer, when it is interred.
+
+[Footnote 1: "Quidam parentes et propinquos, priusquam annis et macie
+conficiantur, velut hostias cædunt, _eorumque visceribus epulantur_."
+The Nascopies do not feast on the "viscera" of their victims, nor do
+I believe the inhabitants of India, or of any other country under
+heaven, ever did. Yet the coincidence is singular, in other respects,
+at such a distance of time and place.]
+
+The Nascopies depend principally on the rein-deer for subsistence,--a
+dependence which the erratic habits of these animals render extremely
+precarious. Should they happen to miss the deer on their passage
+through the country in autumn, they experience the most grievous
+inconvenience, and often privations, the succeeding winter; as
+they must then draw their living from the lakes, with unremitting
+toil,--boring the ice, which is sometimes from eight to nine feet
+thick, for the purpose of setting their hooks, and perhaps not taking
+a single fish after a day's hard work. Nevertheless, they must still
+continue their exertions till they succeed, shifting their hooks from
+one part of the lake to another, until every spot is searched. They
+understand the art of setting nets under the ice perfectly. Towards
+the latter end of December, however, the fish gain the deep water,
+and remain still to the latter end of March. Not a fish enters the net
+during this period.
+
+Partridges are very numerous in certain localities, but cannot be
+trusted to as a means of living, as every part of the country affords
+them food, and when much annoyed at one place they move off to
+another.
+
+It will be seen from the foregoing remarks, that the Nascopies, like
+all other erratic tribes, are subject to the vicissitudes their mode
+of life necessarily involves; at one time wallowing in abundance, at
+another dying of want. Fortunately for themselves, they are at present
+the most independent of the whites of any other Indians on this
+continent, the Esquimaux excepted. The few fur-bearing animals their
+barren country affords are so highly prized, that the least exertion
+enables them to procure their very limited wants; and the skin of
+the rein-deer affords them the most comfortable clothing they could
+possess. They have a particular art, too, of dressing this skin, so as
+to render it as soft and pliable as chamois, in which state it becomes
+a valuable article of trade.
+
+As trading posts, however, are now established on their lands, I doubt
+not but artificial wants will, in time, be created, that may become
+as indispensable to their comfort as their present real wants. All the
+arts of the trader are exercised to produce such a result, and those
+arts never fail of ultimate success. Even during the last two years of
+my management, the demand for certain articles of European manufacture
+had greatly increased.
+
+The winter dress of the Nascopie consists of a jacket of deer-skin,
+close all round, worn with the hair next the skin, and an over-coat of
+the same material reaching to his knees, the hair outside. This coat
+overlaps in front, and is secured by a belt, from which depends his
+knife and smoking-bag. A pair of leather breeches, and leggings,
+or stockings of cloth, protect his legs, though but imperfectly,
+from the cold; his hands, however, are well defended by a pair of
+gauntlets that reach his elbows; and on his head he wears a cap
+richly ornamented with bear's and eagle's claws. His long thick hair,
+however, renders the head-gear an article of superfluity,--but it
+is the fashion. The dress of the women consists of a square piece of
+dressed deer-skin, girt round them by a cloth or worsted belt, and
+fastened over their shoulders by leather straps; a jacket of leather,
+and cloth leggings. I have also observed some of them wearing a
+garment in imitation of a gown. The leather dresses, both of men and
+women, are generally painted; and often display more taste than one
+would be disposed to give them credit for.
+
+The travelling equipage of the Nascopies consists of a small leather
+tent, a deer-skin robe with the hair on, a leather bag with some down
+in it, and a kettle. When he lies down he divests himself of his upper
+garment, which he spreads under him; then, thrusting his limbs into
+the down bag, and rolling himself up in his robe, he draws his knees
+up close to his chin; and thus defended, the severest cold does not
+affect him.
+
+Considering the manner in which their women are treated, it can
+scarcely be supposed that their courtships are much influenced by
+sentiments of love; in fact, the tender passion seems unknown to the
+savage breast. When a young man attains a certain age, and considers
+himself able to provide for a wife--if the term may be so debased--he
+acquaints his parents with his wish, and gives himself no further
+concern about the matter, until they have concluded the matrimonial
+negotiations with the parents of _their_, not _his_ intended, whose
+sentiments are never consulted on the occasion. The youth then
+proceeds to his father-in-law's tent, and remains there for a
+twelvemonth; at the end of this period he may remain longer or depart,
+and he is considered ever after as an independent member of the
+community, subject to no control. Marriages are allowed between near
+relatives; cousins are considered as brothers and sisters, and are
+addressed by the same terms. It is not considered improper to marry
+two sisters, either in succession or both at the same time.
+
+The Nascopies have certain customs in hunting peculiar to themselves.
+If a wounded animal escape, even a short distance, ere he drops, he
+becomes the property of the person who first reaches him, and not of
+the person who shot him; or if the animal be mortally wounded and do
+not fall immediately, and another Indian fire and bring him down, the
+last shot gains the prize.
+
+In their intercourse with us the Nascopies evince a very different
+disposition from the other branches of the Cree family, being selfish
+and inhospitable in the extreme; exacting rigid payment for the
+smallest portion of food. Yet I do not know that we have any right to
+blame a practice in them, which they have undoubtedly learned from
+us. What do they obtain from us without payment? Nothing:--not a shot
+of powder,--not a ball,--not a flint. But whatever may be said of
+their conduct towards the whites, no people can exercise the laws
+of hospitality with greater generosity, or show less selfishness,
+towards each other, than the Nascopies. The only part of an animal the
+huntsman retains for himself is the head; every other part is given up
+for the common benefit. Fish, flesh, and fowl are distributed in the
+same liberal and impartial manner; and he who contributes most seems
+as contented with his share, however small it may be, as if he had had
+no share in procuring it. In fact, a community of goods seems almost
+established among them; the few articles they purchase from us shift
+from hand to hand, and seldom remain more than two or three days in
+the hands of the original purchaser.
+
+The Nascopies, surrounded by kindred tribes, are strangers to the
+calamities of war, and are consequently a peaceful, harmless people;
+yet they cherish the unprovoked enmity of their race towards the poor
+Esquimaux, whom they never fail to attack, when an opportunity offers
+of doing so with impunity. Our presence, however, has had the effect
+of establishing a more friendly intercourse between them; and to the
+fact that many of the Esquimaux have of late acquired fire-arms, and
+are not to be attacked without some risk, may be ascribed, in no small
+degree, the present forbearance of their enemies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    THE ESQUIMAUX--PROBABLE ORIGIN--IDENTITY OF LANGUAGE
+    FROM LABRADOR TO BEHRING'S STRAITS--THEIR
+    AMOURS--MARRIAGES--RELIGION--TREATMENT
+    OF PARENTS--ANECDOTE--MODE OF PRESERVING
+    MEAT--AMUSEMENTS--DRESS--THE IGLOE, OR SNOW-HOUSE--THEIR
+    CUISINE--DOGS--THE SLEDGE--CAIAK, OR CANOE--OUIMIAK, OR
+    BOAT--IMPLEMENTS--STATURE.
+
+
+The Esquimaux are so totally different in physiognomy and person, in
+language, manners, and customs, from all the other natives of America,
+that there can be no doubt that they belong to a different branch of
+the human race. The conformation of their features, their stature,
+form, and complexion, approximate so closely to those of the northern
+inhabitants of Europe, as to indicate, with some degree of certainty,
+their identity of origin. In the accounts I have read of the maritime
+Laplanders, I find many characteristics common to both tribes: the
+Laplander is of a swarthy complexion,--so is the Esquimaux; the
+Laplander is distinguished by high cheek-bones, hollow cheeks, pointed
+chin, and large mouth,--so is the Esquimaux; the Laplander wears a
+thick beard,--so does the Esquimaux; the Laplander's hair is long and
+black,--so is that of the Esquimaux; the Laplanders are, for the most
+part, short of stature,--so are the Esquimaux; and the dress, food,
+and lodging of both peoples are nearly the same. The last coincidence
+may possibly arise from similarity of location and climate; and, taken
+by itself, would afford no certain proof of identity of origin; but
+taken in connexion with the aforementioned characteristics, I think
+the conclusion is irresistible that the Laplanders and Esquimaux are
+of the same race.
+
+That the Esquimaux and the natives of Greenland are also of a kindred
+race, is a fact ascertained beyond a doubt, from the reports of the
+Moravian Missionaries, who have settlements among both.
+
+The way in which they must have passed from the one continent to the
+other, must now be left to conjecture. There is nothing improbable
+in the supposition that some of them might have been drifted out to
+sea by stress of weather, and wafted to the shores of Greenland;
+whence some might, in course of time, remove to the opposite coast
+of America. From the southern extremity of Labrador to Behring's
+Straits, the Esquimaux language is the same, differing only in the
+pronunciation of a few words. We had a native of Hudson's Bay with us,
+who had accompanied Captain Franklin to the McKenzie and Coppermine
+Rivers, and who assured us that he understood the Esquimaux of that
+quarter, and those of Ungava, although some thousands of miles apart,
+as well as his own tribe.
+
+In manners, customs, and dress, there is a like similarity. The
+Esquimaux have ever remained a distinct people; the other natives of
+America seeming to consider them more as brutes than human beings, and
+never approaching them unless for the purpose of knocking them on the
+head. Every one's hand is against them. I have seen Esquimaux scalps,
+even among the timid _têtes des boules_ of Temiscamingue; yet no
+people seem more disposed to live at peace with their neighbours, if
+only they were allowed. Circumstanced as they are, however, they are
+likely to suffer hostile aggression for a long time. Even a coward,
+with a musket in his hand, is generally an overmatch for a brave man
+with only a bow or a sling; but once possessed of fire-arms, they will
+teach their enemies to respect them, for they will undoubtedly have
+the advantage of superior courage and resolution.
+
+The Esquimaux is not easily excited to anger; but his wrath once
+roused, he becomes furious: he foams like a wild boar, rolls his eyes,
+gnashes his teeth, and rushes on his antagonist with the fury of a
+beast of prey. In the winter of 1840, a quarrel arose between two
+individuals about the sex, which led to a fight; the struggle was
+continued for a time with tooth and nail; when one of the parties at
+length got hold of his knife, and stabbed his adversary in the belly.
+The bowels protruded, yet the wounded man never desisted, until loss
+of blood and repeated stabs compelled him to yield the contest and
+his life. Gallantry seems to be the main cause of quarrels among them.
+Strange! that this passion should exercise such an influence in a
+climate, and, as one would be led to suppose, on constitutions so
+cold; yet nothing is more certain than that the enamoured Esquimaux
+will risk life and limb in the pursuit of his object.
+
+With unmarried women there is no risk, as they are entirely free from
+control; not so with the married, who are under strict surveillance;
+but the husband's consent asked and obtained--which not seldom
+happens--saves the gallant's head, and the lady's reputation.
+
+Their courtships are conducted in much the same manner as among the
+inland Indians, the choice of partners being entirely left to the
+parents. Some are affianced in childhood, and become man and wife
+in early youth: I have seen a boy of fourteen living with his wife
+who was two years younger. There are no marriage festivals, and no
+ceremonies of any kind are observed at their nuptials. Polygamy is
+allowed, _ad libitum_; and the husband exercises his authority as
+husband, judge, or executioner; no one having any right to interfere.
+Should, however, the woman consider herself ill-treated, she flees to
+her parents, with whom she remains till an explanation takes place.
+If it lead to a reconciliation, the parties are reunited; if not, the
+woman may form a new connexion whenever she pleases.
+
+I know not whether the Esquimaux can be said to have any idea of
+religion, as the term is generally understood. The earth, say they,
+was in the beginning covered with water, which having subsided, man
+appeared--a spontaneous creation. Aglooktook is the name of the man
+who first created fish and animals: chopping a tree which overhung
+the sea, the chips that fell into that element became fish; those
+that fell on the land, animals. Their paradise is beneath the great
+deep; those who have lived a good life, proceed to a part of the sea
+abounding with whales and seals, where, free from care and toil, they
+fare sumptuously on raw flesh and blubber, _in secula_ _seculorum_.
+The wicked, on the contrary, are condemned to take up their abode in a
+"sea of troubles," where none of the delicacies enjoyed by the blessed
+are to be found; and even the commonest necessaries are procured with
+endless toil, and pain, and disappointment. Although the "tomakhs,"
+or dead men, become the inhabitants of the sea, they indulge in the
+pleasures of the chase on their old element, whenever they please; and
+are often heard calling to each other while in pursuit of the deer.
+
+The Esquimaux have their "men of medicine," in whose preternatural
+powers they place the most implicit confidence; by working on the
+superstitious fears of the people, these impostors obtain much
+authority. They are allowed to take the lead in every affair of
+importance; and, in short, all their movements are, in a great
+measure, regulated by these harlequins, who appear to be the only
+chiefs among them.
+
+They dispose of their dead by placing them on the rocks, and covering
+them over with ice or stones; these tombs prove but feeble barriers
+against the wolves and other beasts of prey, who soon carry off the
+bodies. The property belonging to the deceased is placed by the side
+of his grave;--his caiak, or skin canoe, his bows, arrows, and spears.
+Thus equipped, the _emigrant_ spirit cannot find itself at a loss on
+arriving at a better country!
+
+It is said by some that the Esquimaux abandon their aged parents:
+from inquiry, as well as observation, I am led to believe there is
+no foundation for the charge. It is not reasonable to expect that
+the more refined feelings of humanity should be found in the breast
+of a savage, or that he should honour his father and mother in the
+same degree as he whose principles are moulded by the precepts
+of Christianity; yet I must do them the justice to say, that they
+appeared to me to treat their parents with as much kindness, at least,
+as any other savage nation I have met with. They do not deny, however,
+that old people no longer able to provide for themselves, and without
+any relative to care for them, are sometimes left to perish.
+
+No people suffer more from hunger than the Esquimaux who inhabit
+the shores of Ungava Bay; seals being extremely scarce in the winter
+season, and no fish to be found; so that the poor creatures are
+often reduced to the most revolting expedients to preserve life. An
+Esquimaux, who had been about the post for two years, proceeded, in
+the winter of 1839, to join some of his relatives along the coast.
+When he returned in the ensuing spring, I observed that his mother
+and one of his children were missing. On inquiring what had become of
+them, he replied, that they had been starved to death, and that he and
+the rest of his family would have shared their fate, had it not been
+for the sustenance the bodies afforded.
+
+The Esquimaux always pass the winter near the element that yields them
+their principal subsistence; and as they are unacquainted with the
+use of snow-shoes, they cannot follow the deer any distance from the
+coast. As soon as the rivers are free from ice in summer, they proceed
+inland and find abundance of food. Their manner of preserving their
+meat is quite characteristic. When an animal is killed the bowels
+are extracted, then the fore and hind quarters are cut off, and being
+placed inside the carcass, are secured by skewers of wood run through
+the flesh. The whole is then deposited under the nearest cleft
+of rock, and stones are built round so as to secure it from the
+depredations of wild animals until the hunters return to the coast;
+when the meat is in high flavour, and considered fit for the palate of
+an Esquimaux epicure.
+
+The Esquimaux do not share their provisions as the Nascopies do,
+although they relieve each other's wants when their means can afford
+it: each individual engaged in the chase retains his own game, his
+claim being ascertained by distinctive marks on the arrows. When a
+whale is killed a rigid fast is observed for twenty-four hours, not in
+gratitude to Providence, but in honour of the whale, which is highly
+displeased when this is neglected, studiously avoiding the harpoon
+afterwards, and even visiting the offender with sickness and other
+misfortunes.
+
+Should the summer and fall hunt prove successful, the Esquimaux is one
+of the happiest animals in the creation. He passes his dreary winter
+without one careful or anxious thought; he eats his fill and lies
+down to sleep, and then rises to eat again. In this manner they pass
+the greater part of their time; night and day are the same, eating
+and sleeping their chief enjoyments. When, however, they do rouse
+their dormant faculties to exertion, they seem to engage with great
+good-will in the few amusements they have, the principal of which
+is playing ball, men and women joining in the game. Two parties are
+opposed, the one driving the ball with sticks towards the goal,
+the other driving it in the opposite direction; in short, a game of
+shinty. They have dancing too,--ye gods! such dancing! Two rows of men
+and women, sometimes only of one sex, stand opposite to each other,
+exhibiting no other motion in their dancing than raising their
+shoulders with a peculiar jerk, bending their knees so as to give
+their whole bodies, from the knee upwards, the same motion, and
+grinning horribly at each other, while not a foot stirs.
+
+As to the music to which this _dance_ is performed, I know not well
+how to describe it. By inflating and depressing the lungs so as
+to create a convulsive heaving of the breast, a sound is produced,
+somewhat similar to the groans of a person suffering from suffocation;
+and it is to this sound they grin, and jerk their shoulders. The whole
+performance is quite in keeping; the music worthy of the dancing, the
+dancing worthy of the music. They have boxing too, but do not practise
+the art after the fashion of the Cribs and Coopers; they disdain to
+parry off the blow; each strikes in turn with clenched fist; the
+blow is given behind the ear, and, as soon as one of the parties
+acknowledges himself defeated, the combat ceases. They are also adepts
+at wrestling; I have witnessed frequent contests between them and the
+inland Indians, when the latter were invariably floored.
+
+No one enjoys a joke better than an Esquimaux, and when his risibility
+is excited he laughs with right good will, evincing in this, as in
+every other respect, the difference of disposition between them and
+the Indians, whose rigid features seldom betray their feelings. Much
+the same diversity of character and disposition is to be observed
+among the Esquimaux as among other barbarous tribes. Some instances
+of disinterested kindness and generosity fell under my notice while
+residing among them, that would have done honour to civilized man.
+
+An Esquimaux who had attached himself to the establishment from the
+time of our first arrival at Ungava, kept a poor widow and her three
+orphans with him for several years, and seemed to make no difference
+between them and the members of his own family. It must be
+acknowledged, however, that the unhappy widows seldom fall into so
+good hands; their fate is the most wretched that can be imagined,
+unless they have children that can provide for them. In years of
+scarcity they are rejected from the community, and hover about the
+encampments like starving wolves, picking up whatever chance may
+throw in their way, until hunger and cold terminate their wretched
+existence.
+
+Whatever may be said of the awkwardness of the Esquimaux dress, it
+must be allowed to be the best adapted to the climate that could be
+used: a pair of boots so skilfully sewed as to exclude the water, and
+lined with down, or the fine hair of the rein-deer, protects the feet
+from wet and cold; two pairs of trousers, the inner having the hair
+next the skin; and two coats or tunics of deer or seal skin, the outer
+having a large hood that is drawn over the head in stormy weather,
+and a pair of large mits, complete the dress. The women also "wear
+the breeks," their dress being similar to that of the men in every
+respect, with this difference, that the female has a long flap
+attached to the hind part of her coat, and falling down to her
+heels; a most extraordinary ornament, giving her the appearance of
+an enormous tadpole. This tail, however, has its use; when she has
+occasion to sit down on the cold rocks she folds it up and makes a
+seat of it.
+
+In the winter season the Esquimaux live in huts built of snow; and
+we may imagine what must have been the necessity and distress that
+could first have suggested to a human being the idea of using such
+a material as a means of protecting himself from cold. Be that as it
+may, the snow _igloe_ affords not only security from the inclemency
+of the weather, but more comfort than either stone or wooden building
+without fire. The operation requires considerable tact and experience,
+and is always performed by the men, two being required for it, one
+outside and the other inside.
+
+Blocks of snow are first cut out with some sharp instrument from the
+spot that is intended to form the floor of the dwelling, and raised
+on edge, inclining a little inward around the cavity. These blocks
+are generally about two feet in length, two feet in breadth, and
+eight inches thick, and are joined close together. In this manner the
+edifice is erected, contracting at each successive tier, until there
+only remains a small aperture at the top, which is filled by a slab of
+clear ice, that serves both as a keystone to the arch, and a window to
+light the dwelling. An embankment of snow is raised around the wall,
+and covered with skins, which answers the double purpose of beds
+and seats. The inside of the hut presents the figure of an arch or
+dome; the usual dimensions are ten or twelve feet in diameter, and
+about eight feet in height at the centre. Sometimes two or three
+families congregate under the same roof, having separate apartments
+communicating with the main building, that are used as bedrooms. The
+entrance to the igloe is effected through a winding covered passage,
+which stands open by day, but is closed up at night by placing slabs
+of ice at the angle of each bend, and thus the inmates are perfectly
+secured against the severest cold.
+
+The Esquimaux use no fuel in winter; their stone lamps afford
+sufficient heat to dry their boots and clothes, or warm their blubber
+and raw meat when they are so inclined. They are inured to cold by
+early habit; the children are carried about in the hoods of their
+mothers' jackets until three years of age; during this period they
+remain without a stitch of clothing, and the little things may be
+sometimes seen standing up in their nests, exposing themselves in the
+coldest weather, without appearing to suffer any inconvenience from
+it. The Esquimaux never sleep with their clothes on, not even when
+without any other shelter than the cleft of a rock.
+
+It is well known that they eat their food, whether fish or flesh,
+generally in a raw state; hence their appellation, "Ashkimai," in
+the Cree and Sauteux, means, eater of raw meat, and is doubtless
+the origin of the name Esquimaux first applied by the earlier French
+discoverers, and since then passed into general use. They sometimes,
+indeed, warm their food in a stone kettle over a stone lamp, but they
+seem to relish it equally well when cut warm from the carcase of an
+animal recently killed, which they may be seen devouring while yet
+quivering with life.
+
+In winter they prefer raw meat, especially fish, which is considered
+a great delicacy in a frozen state; the Esquimaux stomach, in fact,
+rejects nothing, raw or boiled, that affords sustenance. Like the
+inland Indians, they can bear hunger for an amazing length of time,
+and afterwards gorge themselves with more than brutal voracity without
+suffering inconvenience by it.
+
+The Esquimaux breed of dogs are wolves in a domesticated state, the
+same in every characteristic, save such differences as may be expected
+to result from their relative conditions; the dog howls, never barks.
+These animals are of the most essential service to their masters,
+and are maintained at no expense. How they manage to subsist appears
+inexplicable to me; not a morsel of food is ever offered to them at
+the camp, and when employed hauling sledges on a journey, a small
+piece of blubber given them in the evening enables them to perform the
+laborious work of the ensuing day.
+
+From ten to fifteen dogs are employed on a long journey. They are
+harnessed separately by a collar and a single trace passing over their
+back, and fastened to the fore-part of the sledge. The traces are
+so arranged that the dogs generally follow in a line, conducted by a
+leader, who is trained to obey the word of command in an instant; the
+least hesitation on his part brings the merciless whip about his ears.
+The lash is about fifteen feet in length, the handle eighteen inches;
+continual practice enables the Esquimaux to wield this instrument
+of torture with great dexterity. The sledges are about five feet in
+length and two in breadth; the runners generally shod with whalebone
+or ivory, and coated over with a plaster of earth and water, which
+becomes very smooth, and is renewed as often as it is worn out.
+
+The Esquimaux _caiak_, or canoe, is about twelve feet in length, and
+two feet in breadth, and tapers off from the centre to the bow and
+stern, almost to a mere point. The frame is of wood covered with
+seal-skin, having an aperture in the centre which barely admits of
+the stowage of the nether man. These canoes are calculated for the
+accommodation of one person only; yet it is possible for a passenger
+to embark upon them, if he can submit to the inconvenience--and
+risk--of lying at full length on his belly, without ever stirring
+hand or foot, as the least motion would upset the canoe. Instances,
+however, have been known of persons conveyed hundreds of miles in this
+manner. These canoes are used solely for hunting; and, by means of the
+double paddle, are propelled through the water with the velocity
+of the dolphin; no land animal can possibly escape when seen in the
+water; the least exertion is sufficient to keep up with the rein-deer
+when swimming at its utmost speed. When the animal is overtaken, it is
+driven towards the spot where the huntsman wishes to land, and there
+despatched by a thrust of the spear.
+
+The Esquimaux of this quarter have not the art of recovering their
+position, when they upset. An accident of this kind is, therefore,
+sure to prove fatal, unless aid be at hand. It is seldom, however,
+that aid is wanting, for these accidents never happen except in the
+excitement of the sport, especially harpooning whales, when there
+are always a number present. The _ouimiack_, or skin-boat, is a
+clumsy-looking contrivance, but not to be despised on that account;
+from the buoyancy of the materials of which it is built, the ouimiack
+stands a much heavier sea than our best sea-boat. This kind of craft
+is rowed by women, and used for the purpose of conveying families
+along the coast.
+
+The few implements these people use for hunting or fishing, display
+much taste and ingenuity. Their caiaks are proportioned with
+mathematical exactness, the paddles often tastefully inlaid with
+ivory; their spears are neatly carved, and their bows are far superior
+to any I have seen among the interior tribes, combining strength and
+elasticity in an eminent degree.
+
+Their mode of capturing the white whale is extremely ingenious. A
+large _dan_, or seal-skin inflated with wind, is attached to the
+harpoon by a thong some twenty feet in length. The moment the fish is
+struck the _dan_ is thrown overboard, and being dragged through the
+water, offers so great a resistance to the movement of the fish that
+it soon becomes exhausted by the exertion, and when it emerges lies
+exposed on the water, to take rest ere it dive again. The Esquimaux
+then approaches from behind, and often secures his game with
+one thrust of the spear. The Esquimaux also uses a javelin with
+considerable skill, and some are so dexterous in the use of the sling
+as to bring down wild fowl on the wing.
+
+The complexion of the Esquimaux is swarthy; I have seen some of their
+children, however, as fair as the children of the fairest people
+in Europe, yet these become as dark as their parents when advanced
+in years. This circumstance cannot be accounted for by filthiness
+or exposure to the weather; for I have observed, on the coast of
+Labrador, the descendants of an Esquimaux mother and a European father
+of the third generation as dark as the pure Esquimaux; and these, too,
+enjoyed the comforts of civilized life, were cleanly in their persons,
+and not more exposed to the weather than others.
+
+The Esquimaux are low of stature, but I do not think the epithet
+"dwarfish" applies to them with propriety. With the view of
+ascertaining this point, I once took five men promiscuously from a
+party of twenty, and found their average height to be 5 feet 5 inches.
+Some individuals of the remainder measured 5 feet 7 or 8 inches, and
+one exceeded 6 feet. The fact is, the Esquimaux are generally thicker
+than Europeans; their peculiar dress also adds greatly to their bulk,
+so that they appear shorter than they really are. They are so bound up
+in their seal-skin garments that their movements are necessarily much
+impeded by them, we can, therefore, form no idea of their agility; but
+I do not hesitate to say that their strength exceeds that of any other
+nation on the continent.
+
+The Esquimaux features are far from being disagreeable; some females
+I observed among them whose expression of countenance was extremely
+prepossessing, and who would pass for "bonnie lasses" even among the
+whites, if divested of their filth and uncouth dress, and rigged out
+in European habiliments. The women fasten their hair in a knot on the
+crown of the head, and anoint it with rancid oil in lieu of pomatum;
+they also tattoo their faces, with the view, no doubt, of enhancing
+their charms in the estimation of their blubber-eating lovers. Their
+teeth are remarkably white and regular; the eyes are black, and
+partake more of the circular than the oval form; the cheek-bones are
+prominent, forehead low, mouth large, and chin pointed.
+
+The Esquimaux generally enjoy good health, and no epidemic diseases,
+as far as I could learn, are known among them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    LABRADOR--ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS--MORAVIAN BRETHREN--EUROPEAN
+    INHABITANTS--THEIR VIRTUES--CLIMATE--ANECDOTE.
+
+
+The country denominated Labrador, extends from Esquimaux Bay, on
+the Straits of Belleisle, to the extremity of the continent, Cape
+Chudleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior is
+inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers and Nascopies,
+members of the Cree family. The coast was inhabited at one time by
+Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now peopled by a mongrel race
+of Esquimaux half-breeds, a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some English
+and Canadian fishermen and trappers, who are assimilated to the
+natives in manners and in mode of life. While the European inhabitants
+adopt from necessity some of the native customs, the natives
+have adopted so much of the European customs that their primitive
+characteristics are no longer distinguishable; they cook their
+victuals, drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally dress after
+the European manner, especially the females, who always wear gowns.
+They have also a smattering of French and English, and are great
+proficients in swearing in both languages; nor do they seem ignorant
+of the more refined arts of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking
+everything into account, however, we may be surprised that their
+manners are not more corrupt than they are.
+
+A number of small trading vessels from the United States hover about
+the coast during summer; the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a
+primary article in their outfit, and is bartered freely for such
+commodities as the natives may possess. These adventurers are
+generally men of loose principles, and are ever ready to take the
+advantage of their customers. The natives, however, are now so well
+instructed that they are more likely to cheat than be cheated.
+
+The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts of the coast differ in
+every respect from their neighbours of the south. They have acquired
+a knowledge of the Christian religion, together with some of the more
+useful arts of civilized life, without losing much of their primitive
+simplicity. The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors of the
+Apostles," after enduring inconceivable hardships and privations for
+many years, without the least prospect of success, at length succeeded
+in converting the heathens, collecting them in villages around them,
+and at the same time not only instructing them in things pertaining to
+their eternal salvation, but in everything else that could contribute
+to their comfort and happiness in the present life. There are four
+different stations of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and Hebron.
+At each station there is a church, store, dwelling-house for the
+Missionaries, and workshops for native tradesmen. The natives are
+lodged in houses built after the model of their _igloes_, being the
+best adapted to the climate and circumstances of the country, where
+scarcely any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm their houses by
+means of stoves.
+
+The Brethren have much the same influence with their flocks as a
+father among his children. Whatever provisions the natives collect
+are placed at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed in
+such a manner as to be of the most general benefit; by thus taking
+the management of this important matter into their own hands, the
+consequences of waste and improvidence are guarded against, and the
+means of subsistence secured.
+
+In years of great scarcity the Brethren open their own stores, having
+always an ample supply of provisions on hand, so that through their
+fostering care the natives never suffer absolute want. The Brethren
+have also goods for trading, which they dispose of at a moderate
+profit; the profits accruing from the business are thrown into the
+general funds of the institution. It is said they carry on trade in
+every part of the world where they have missions. Their object is not
+to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to extend the kingdom of
+Christ on earth; to enlighten the nations; and by instructing them in
+the knowledge of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" in this
+life, and secure their eternal happiness in the life to come.
+
+From the paternal anxiety with which these good people watch over the
+morals of their flocks, they discourage as much as possible the visits
+of strangers; fearing that intercourse with them might open their eyes
+to the allurements of vice. In spite of all their vigilance, however,
+they have sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. It is an
+established rule, moreover, with them, never to allow a stranger to
+sleep within their gates; he is hospitably received and treated with
+kindness and attention, but on the approach of evening he is apprised
+that he must shift for himself: care is taken, however, to provide him
+with lodgings in one of the native huts, where he can pass the night
+in tolerable comfort. Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he
+is at liberty to depart when he pleases.
+
+The European inhabitants of Labrador are for the most part British
+sailors, who, preferring the freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the
+society of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime discipline and
+the endearments of the civilized fair, take up their abode for life in
+this land of desolation.
+
+In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor settles down into the
+regular grave father of a family; and by sobriety and good conduct,
+may ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old age. Jack's
+characteristic thoughtlessness, however, sometimes adheres to him even
+when moored on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is
+truly miserable.
+
+They pass the summer in situations favourable for catching salmon,
+which they barter on the spot with the stationary traders for such
+commodities as they are in want of. When the salmon fishing is at
+an end, they proceed to the coast for the purpose of fishing cod for
+their own consumption, and return late in autumn to the interior,
+where they pass the winter trapping fur animals.
+
+The planters, as they are designated, live in houses which they
+call "tilts," varying in shape and size according to the taste or
+circumstances of the owner. These buildings are generally formed of
+stakes driven into the ground, chinked with moss, and covered with
+bark; they are always warmed with stoves, otherwise the _igloe_ would
+afford more comfort.
+
+The half-breeds live in much the same way as their European
+progenitors; they are generally sober and industrious; and although
+unacquainted with any particular form of religious worship, they
+evince, in their general deportment, a greater regard to the precepts
+of Christianity than many who call themselves Christians. They are
+entirely free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, and are
+guilty of few of its vices; should a frail fair, however, make a _faux
+pas_, it is no bar to her forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards.
+The women are much fewer than the men, and on this account a greater
+indulgence may be extended to their faults than otherwise would be.
+
+I was surprised to find them all able to read and write, although
+without schools or schoolmasters. The task of teaching devolves
+upon the mother; should she (what seldom happens) be unqualified, a
+neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction.
+
+The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious and ingenious; they
+are at a loss for nothing. The men make their own boats, and the women
+prepare everything required for domestic convenience; almost every
+man is his own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman a tailor and
+shoemaker. They seem to possess all the virtues of the different races
+from which they are sprung--except courage; they are generally allowed
+to be more timid than the natives. But if not courageous, they possess
+virtues that render courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence,
+and are seldom, therefore, injured by others.
+
+The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing here a few years ago, by
+buying out some of the petty traders, whose operations extended to the
+interior, and consequently interfered with the hopeful Ungava scheme;
+independently, however, of this consideration, expectations were
+entertained that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable branch
+of the business, from its various resources in fish, oil, and furs.
+These expectations were not realized, owing to the strong competition
+the Company met with; while their interference in the trade subjected
+them to the charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which appears but
+too well founded, considering the monopoly they possess of the whole
+fur trade of the continent. "Plus le D----e a, plus il voudrait
+avoir," is an old adage; nor have we any reason to believe that any
+other mercantile body would be less ambitious of increasing their
+gains, than their _honours_ of Fenchurch-street.
+
+There are several establishments along the coast, belonging chiefly to
+merchants from Plymouth and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon and cod
+fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic also with the planters.
+This business was at one time considered very lucrative; of late
+years, however, competition has increased from all quarters, and
+prices in the European market have diminished, so that the profits are
+now greatly reduced.
+
+The climate of the southern section of Labrador is by no means severe;
+the thermometer, even in the coldest months of the year, seldom
+falling lower than 30° below zero. Along the shores of Esquimaux Bay,
+a few spots have been found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes
+and other culinary vegetables have been raised in abundance. Grain,
+especially oats and barley, would doubtless also thrive; it so
+happens, however, that the inhabitants are under the necessity of
+devoting their attention to other pursuits during the season of
+husbandry; so that the few that attempt "gardening," derive small
+benefit from it. They sow their seed before starting for the coast,
+and leave nature to do the rest.
+
+I shall close my description of Labrador by narrating a rather
+tragical event that occurred a few years ago. An old fisherman,
+formerly a sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, lived
+together in the greatest amity and concord. The son, after the death
+of his mother, attended to domestic affairs, and also assisted his
+father at out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, however,
+it was considered expedient to hire a female, so that they might give
+their undivided attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained
+long with them, when her charms began to make an impression on Jack's
+still sensitive heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid their
+addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred.
+
+The demon of jealousy now took possession of the father's breast; and
+his conduct became so violent and cruel, that his son determined on
+parting company with him and carrying off the girl. Seizing the only
+boat that belonged to his father, he slipped away under cover of night
+with his companion, and put ashore on the first island they found. A
+violent storm arose in the course of the night, and either dashed the
+boat to pieces on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus the
+unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. This event happened late
+in autumn. The winter passed without any word being heard of the
+lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were found clasped in each
+other's arms, and the young man's gun close by with fifteen notches
+cut in the stock, supposed to mark the number of days they suffered
+ere relieved by death.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVE AT
+    THE PLACE OF MY NATIVITY--CHANGES--DEPOPULATION--LONDON--THE
+    THAMES--LIVERPOOL--EMBARK FOR NEW YORK--ARRIVAL--THE
+    AMERICANS--ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TOURISTS--ENGLAND AND
+    AMERICA--NEW YORK.
+
+
+1842.--I embarked for England on the 18th of August, on board a small
+schooner of sixty tons, deeply laden with fish and oil. It is scarcely
+necessary to observe, that the accommodations the craft afforded
+were of the meanest kind; but the inconveniences weighed lightly in
+the scales, when compared with the anticipated delight of visiting
+one's native land. We had a very fine passage; a steady fair breeze
+carried us across the broad Atlantic in a fortnight. The green hills
+of Cornwall came in view on the 1st of September, and I had the
+satisfaction of treading the soil of England early on the 3d.
+
+I remained a few days at Plymouth, to feast my eyes on scenery such as
+I had long been a stranger to;--scenery, I may say, unrivalled by any
+I had ever beheld at home or abroad. What spot in the world, in fact,
+can present such varied charms, as the summit of Mount Edgecumb? where
+the most refined taste, aided by the amplest means, has been employed
+for a thousand years in beautifying the glorious landscape. To me,
+just arrived from _Ungava_, the beauties of the scene were undoubtedly
+heightened by the contrast; and one short visit to Mount Edgecumb
+effaced from my mind the dreary prospect of bleak rocks, snow banks,
+and icebergs, with which it had been so long and so sadly familiar,
+and inspired it with a rapture and delight to which it had long been
+a stranger. Yet this terrestrial paradise, I am informed, belongs to
+a noble lord, who is a miserable invalid. Alas, for poor humanity!
+neither wealth nor grandeur preserve their possessors from the ills
+that flesh is heir to: and this nobleman may, perhaps, envy the lot of
+the humblest individual that visits his enchanting domain.
+
+Bidding adieu to Plymouth, and its delightful environs, I set out
+for London on the 11th of September. The desire of home, however,
+now urged me forward; so that even the wonders of this wonderful
+city could not detain me. Passing over the uninteresting incidents of
+steamboat and railroad travelling, I arrived on the 20th of September
+at the spot from which I had started twenty-three years before. The
+meeting of a mother with an only son, after so long an absence, need
+not be described, nor the feelings the well-known scenes of youthful
+sports and youthful joys gave rise to. These scenes were still the
+same, as far as the hand of Nature was concerned:--there stood the
+lofty Benmore, casting his sombre shades over the glassy surface of
+Lochba, as in the days of yore; there were also the same heath-covered
+hills and wooded dells, well stocked with sheep and cattle; but
+the human inhabitants of the woods and dells--where were they?--far
+distant from their much-loved native land in the wilds of America,
+or toiling for a miserable existence in the crowded cities of the
+Lowlands,--a sad change! The bleating of sheep, and lowing of cattle,
+for the glad voices of a numerous population, happy and contented with
+their lot, loyal to their sovereign, and devotedly attached to their
+chiefs! But loyalty and attachment are but fancies, which, in these
+utilitarian and trading days, are flat and unprofitable; yet the
+aristocratical manufacturers of beef and mutton may live to feel the
+truth of the lines of Goldsmith:--
+
+  "But a bold peasantry, their country's pride,
+  When once destroyed, can never be supplied."
+
+I remained about six weeks in my native country, and set out for
+London, where I arrived early in November,--"the beginning of the gay
+season;" but it appeared to me the reverse. The city was shrouded in
+a cloud of condensed smoke and fog, that shut out the light of heaven.
+During three whole days the obscurity was so great that the steamboats
+were prevented from plying on the Thames, and the gas-lights were
+seen glimmering through the windows at noon-day. How applicable is
+the description of the Roman historian to the Rome of our day:--"Caput
+orbis terrarum, urbis magnificentiam augebant fora, templa, porticas,
+aquæductus, theatra, horti denique, et ejus generis alia, ad quæ
+vel lecta animus stupet." My time was too limited, however, and the
+weather too unfavourable, to admit of my seeing all the "lions;" but
+who would think of leaving London without visiting that wonderful
+work--the Tunnel,--that lasting monument of the genius of a Brunell,
+and of the wealth and enterprise of British merchants!
+
+A Cockney may well boast of his great city, its wealth, its vast
+population, and its magnificent buildings; but with regard to the
+Thames, of which he is equally proud,--he that has seen the St.
+Lawrence, the Hudson, the McKenzie, and many others, compared to which
+the Thames is but a rivulet, may be excused if he cannot view its
+not very limpid waters with the same extravagant admiration as the
+Londoner, who calls the Serpentine a river, and dignifies a pond of a
+few roods in extent with the name of a lake. Yet there is one feature
+about the Thames, of which he can scarcely be too proud, and which
+is unparalleled perhaps in the world,--the often-noticed "forest of
+masts," extending farther than the eye can reach, and suggesting,--not
+the silence and solitude of the forests with which I have been
+familiar,--but the countless population, the wealth, and the grandeur
+of Britain; and the might and the majesty of civilized and industrious
+man.
+
+I took leave of London on the 12th of September, and set out for
+Liverpool by railroad, and reached it in six hours. I had sufficient
+time to visit its docks, crowded by the ships of every nation; its
+warehouses containing the produce of every clime; and, though last,
+not least in my estimation, the splendid monument erected to the
+memory of Nelson. No monument of stone or brass is necessary to
+perpetuate our hero's fame; he lives in the heart of every true
+Briton, and will ever live, till British oak and British prowess shall
+cease to "rule the waves."
+
+I embarked on the 15th of December on board a sailing-packet bound
+for New York. These vessels are so punctual to the hour of sailing
+advertised, that, if the wind proves contrary, and blows fresh, they
+are towed out to sea by steamboats. This proved to be our case, and we
+kept tacking about in the "chops" of the Channel for six days, when
+a fair wind sprung up that soon carried us out of sight of England.
+England! great and glorious country, adieu! I shall probably never
+see thee more; but in quitting thy white-cliffed shores, I quit not my
+ardent attachment and veneration for thee;--and now for _thy_ eldest
+daughter beyond the ocean!
+
+To me, who had spent so much of my lifetime in solitude, the tedium
+of the voyage so much complained of was gaiety itself; with three
+fellow-passengers besides the captain, the time passed very agreeably.
+On board these floating palaces a passenger, in fact, finds everything
+that can contribute to his comfort; the best of accommodation, the
+best of fare, and the best of attendance; so that there is nothing
+wanting but _stability_, to make him fancy himself in a first-class
+hotel on shore.
+
+The weather proved extremely favourable throughout the passage; not an
+incident occurred worthy of notice; and on the 17th of January, 1843,
+I landed safely at New York, and thus found myself for the first time
+in a foreign land; and, since fate has so decreed, among a foreign
+people. Yes! they are foreigners, if being called by another name, and
+living under a different form of government can make them so; yet in
+language, in laws, in religion, and in blood, we are the same. Their
+ancestors brought abroad with them the same sentiments of regard
+and attachment to their native land as we feel; they rejoiced in the
+prosperity of Britain; felt proud of her victories, and grieved at
+her misfortunes. Alas, how different the feelings of the present race!
+Britain may, in fact, reckon the Americans of the present day her most
+inveterate foes; those who are of our own kindred, and whom therefore
+we might expect to stand by us in our hour of need, regard us with
+more envy and hatred than the "hereditary foes" with whom we have been
+for centuries engaged in mortal strife.
+
+In resisting the arbitrary acts of a misguided government, the
+American people only proved themselves possessed of the same noble
+spirit that procured for their English progenitors the confirmation of
+Magna Charta, and that hurled a tyrant from his throne. The heroes of
+the American revolution nobly fought and conquered; they entered the
+arena with fearful odds against them; they continued the struggle
+under every disadvantage, save the sacredness of their cause; and
+finally won the prize for which they contended. Of that prize the
+Americans of the present day have undisputed possession; and nothing
+can be more certain than that the Britons of the present day have no
+wish to deprive them of it--even if they could. What cause, then, can
+there be for still cherishing those feelings of animosity which the
+unhappy disruption gave rise to? If our fathers quarrelled, cannot
+we be friends? But are not the British themselves to blame, in
+some measure, for the continuance of these irritated feelings? The
+mercenary pens of prejudiced, narrow-minded individuals contribute
+daily to add fuel to the flame. Our "Diaries," and our "Notes,"
+replete with offensive remarks, are, from the cheapness of
+publication, disseminated through the length and breadth of the Union,
+and are in everybody's hands; and those foolish remarks are supposed
+to be the sentiments of the British nation; when they are in fact
+only the sentiments of individuals whose opinions are little valued at
+home, and ought to be less valued abroad.
+
+Circumstances taken into consideration, I think it very unfair to
+draw comparisons between the social condition of young America, just
+become a distinct nation, and of old England, whose empire has lasted
+a thousand years. The American people are still too much occupied
+with the necessaries of life to devote much of their time to its
+elegancies; they are still engaged in the pursuits that ultimately
+ensure wealth and real independence. Those results attained, what is
+there to prevent the American gentleman from becoming as polished and
+accomplished as his cousin in Britain? Can it be supposed, with the
+least shadow of reason, that the short period that has elapsed since
+the Revolution can have been sufficient to produce that alteration in
+the character and manners of the Americans, which our travellers love
+to exercise their wit upon? It is impossible. The Americans "guessed,"
+and "calculated," and "speculated," while they were British subjects,
+just as they do now; nor have they learned to chew, and spit, and
+smoke tobacco since the 4th of July, 1782.
+
+As to the peculiar phrases the Americans use in conversation, I am
+convinced that their forefathers brought the greater part of them from
+Britain, as many of those phrases are to be found in the works of
+old English authors still extant. The English language as spoken in
+America, is elegance itself, compared to the provincial dialects of
+Britain, or even to the vile slang one hears in the streets of London.
+This is a fact that every unprejudiced person who has travelled in
+America must admit.
+
+It appears Americans find leisure, of late years, to travel and take
+notes, as well as their transatlantic brethren; and, in return for the
+polite attentions of our travellers, describe England and Englishmen
+in the bitter language of recrimination and retort; and thus the
+enmity between the mother and daughter is kept alive and perpetuated.
+A publication of this kind fell lately into my hands, entitled, "The
+Glory and Shame of England." The writer, said to be a _Christian
+minister_, with the malignity of baser minds, sinks and keeps in the
+background her "glories," and brings into relief and dwells upon her
+shameful parts; representing in the most sombre colours the misery of
+the "squalid" population of our cities. Would to God there were not
+so much truth in the picture! His reverence, however, seems to have
+lost sight of the clergyman; and in gratifying his resentment against
+England, and in his zeal to kindle the same unchristian feeling in
+the breasts of his countrymen, has not hesitated to sacrifice the
+truth;--and he a clergyman, whose office it is to "proclaim peace on
+earth, and good-will to men!"
+
+That there is much misery and wretchedness in England, none can deny;
+but will not the well-informed philanthropist consider it rather as
+our misfortune than our reproach?--consisting mainly, as that mass
+of wretchedness does, of those ills which neither "kings nor laws can
+cause or cure." What plan would this philanthropic divine recommend to
+remove those evils, which, while he affects to deplore, he yet glories
+over? Strip the nobility and land-owners of their possessions--convert
+our monarchy into a republic--and the church into a "meetin ouse?"
+
+These _reforms_ effected, would the people of England be permanently
+benefited by them? Supposing the whole arable soil of England were
+divided in equal portions among its crowded inhabitants, (passing
+by the injustice of robbing the present proprietors of their lawful
+possessions--many of them acquired by the same hard labour or skill
+by which an artisan gains his weekly wages,) would the equality
+of property long continue? Would not the sloth, improvidence, and
+imprudence, that ever distinguish a great proportion of mankind; and
+the industry, foresight, and ambition that characterise others, soon
+bring many of the equal lots into one, thus forming a great estate,
+the property of an individual,--when matters would just be at the
+point where his reverence found them? And then, of course, would
+follow another "equitable adjustment," to relieve the wants of the
+poor, whose progenitors had squandered their patrimony. Or, admitting
+that the lots remained in possession of the families to whom they were
+originally granted, would the produce be equal to the maintenance
+of their numerous descendants, when the property became divided and
+subdivided into fifty or a hundred shares?
+
+The present proprietors of the soil of England have, undoubtedly,
+large incomes; but what becomes of those incomes? Do they not flow
+back into the hands of the merchants, tradesmen, servants, &c.?--the
+greater proportion, at least; for the sums expended by our tourists
+on the continent form so inconsiderable a portion of those incomes,
+as not to be worth mentioning. The same may be said of the _alleged_
+wealth of the clergy; for (admitting the allegation) it all flows back
+into the channels whence it issued; and, although neither belonging
+to the Church of England, nor approving of her forms of government, I
+do not think that her downfall would improve the _temporal_ condition
+of the people. If we wish to remain a Christian nation, we cannot
+dispense with the services of the clergy; and in order that those
+services may be efficient, they must be maintained in independence and
+respectability.
+
+As to a republican form of government, that experiment has been
+already tried in England, and failed; it may be tried again with no
+better success. The circumstances in which the American people found
+themselves after the Revolution, rendered the adoption of republican
+institutions both safe and beneficial. They had learned by experience
+that the remote position of their country secured their independence
+from the ambitious projects of any power in Europe; while they had
+nothing to fear from any power in America. Thus situated, any form of
+government, consistent with the due maintenance of good order at home,
+answered their purpose. The nascent republic might, at the period in
+question, have adopted as its motto, "Liberty and Equality," with
+the utmost propriety; for all enjoyed equal liberty, and nearly equal
+fortunes. Experience, however, shows that liberty and equality cannot
+long exist under any form of government; industry procures wealth,
+wealth induces ambition, and ambition sighs after distinction and
+power.
+
+While America feels secure from the aggression of her neighbours,
+Great Britain is surrounded by powerful states, some of whom afford
+her daily proofs of their envy of her greatness and their hatred of
+her power; and only want the ability, not the will, to annihilate
+both. Those states are, for the most part, ruled by absolute or
+despotic governments, who can call fleets and armies into action
+without losing a moment in debating the justice or injustice, policy
+or impolicy, of their movements. With such neighbours as these, would
+the Messenger of Peace recommend the "Britishers" to adopt a form of
+government which would necessitate them to debate and consult while
+their enemies were acting; and to remit to the people to discuss the
+question of peace or war, when they should be enlisting and drilling
+them?
+
+Columbia, happy land! the broad Atlantic intervenes between thee and
+the envy or hatred of Europe; thy wide domain, presenting millions of
+acres of untenanted land, stands open to the industry and enterprise
+of thy citizens. How thankful, then, ought they to be for the
+blessings they enjoy, compared with the condition of their brethren
+"beyond the water," confined as they are to the narrow limits of their
+sea-girt isle, whose soil is no longer sufficient for the support of
+its over-crowded inhabitants, and surrounded by hostile nations, who
+have long since pronounced the sentence, "_Delenda est Britannia!_"
+
+"Boz" has already told his countrymen all that is worth telling about
+New York, and something more. What the "Dickens" brought him to
+the "Five Points?" Did he never visit Wapping with the same views,
+whatever they might be? If he did, did he observe nothing in that sink
+of filth and wickedness equal to the scenes that shocked him so much
+in the outskirts of New York? One just arrived from England finds
+little in this city to excite wonder or admiration, unless it be the
+extraordinary width of some of the streets. Were those streets kept
+clean, and the liberty of the pigs a little restrained, the citizens
+might well boast of their superiority to most of the streets of our
+British cities; and as their taste improves, everything unsightly will
+be removed.
+
+Nature has done much for New York: she possesses one of the finest
+harbours in the world; her climate is pleasant and salubrious; and
+one of the noblest rivers of America gives her the command of the
+commercial resources of a country which equals in extent nearly all
+Europe. New York will undoubtedly become one of the first cities in
+the world; in commerce, in wealth, in population, she has advanced at
+a prodigious rate within the last fifty years, and her progress is not
+likely to be arrested.
+
+The aqueduct that supplies the town with water, pure, wholesome, and
+abundant, is well worth the notice of a stranger. This stupendous work
+was executed at a cost of nine millions of dollars, and conveys the
+water from a distance of forty miles!--the genius of the engineer
+and the power of money overcoming every obstacle. The two great
+reservoirs, near the city, present splendid specimens of that kind of
+architecture. Happening in company to express my opinion of this work,
+as reflecting the highest credit on the enterprise of the citizens, a
+gentleman present, evidently an American, in reply to the compliment,
+observed, "It is very much to their advantage, no doubt, and it will
+also be much to their credit, if they pay the debt they incurred in
+constructing it." The fact is, that this and many other public works
+in the United States, have been executed by British capital. Would to
+heaven that our _sympathising_ friends, who are so jealous in regard
+to the honour of America, where a few thousand acres of worthless land
+are concerned, were equally jealous in regard to it when, under the
+newly-invented name of _repudiation_, the honour of their country is
+tarnished by a vast system of unblushing robbery! Would to heaven that
+their _sympathies_ were extended to the thousands who are involved in
+misery and ruin by this audacious system of national perfidy!
+
+If the art or ingenuity of the good citizens of New York has not
+produced very many objects worthy of admiration, the faces of their
+lovely fair make ample amends for it. Among the crowds of charmers
+who throng the fashionable promenade of Broadway, scarcely an ordinary
+face is to be seen. I, in fact, saw more pretty faces there in one
+hour than in all my tour in Britain.
+
+I landed in New York without any prejudice against the Americans, and
+I now take leave of their commercial capital with feelings of esteem
+and regret. In the society I frequented I neither saw nor heard
+anything unworthy of, or unbecoming the descendants of Britons. Some
+little peculiarities, the natural result of circumstances, I certainly
+noticed; some differences also in their social life; but I shall leave
+it to those who are disposed to find fault to criticise these matters.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER--THE
+    PASSENGERS--ARRIVAL AT ALBANY--JOURNEY TO MONTREAL.
+
+
+The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted by ice, I
+determined on proceeding to Albany by steamboat, in preference to the
+railroad, with the view of seeing the far-famed scenery of the country
+through which the river flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of
+February. We had not proceeded far, however, when we found the face of
+the country covered with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated
+from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost.
+
+Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold became so severe as we
+ascended, that the deck was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the
+stove was considered the best. The passengers being now all crowded
+below, the group presented a complete epitome of American society:
+here were members of the legislature proceeding to the capital on
+parliamentary duty; here also were congregated in the same cabin,
+merchants, mechanics, and farmers, messing at the same board, and at
+first mixed up promiscuously together. They did not, however, long
+continue so; the more respectable part, separating from the crowd,
+occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied the other. Thus
+the homogeneous ingredients of the mass having united, no further
+mixture took place during the passage.
+
+It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally be observed
+stepping beyond the ideal boundary, and sitting down among the
+plebeians, probably some of his constituents,--would call for a pipe,
+and, stretching out his legs, commence to puff, spit, and debate, like
+one of themselves; and having by these means convinced them that he
+still considered them as his _equals_, would retire again _ad suos_.
+
+The Americans are accused by Europeans of being cold and reserved
+towards strangers; for my part, I found them sociable and
+communicative in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked on
+board the steamboat I found myself quite at home. I was much pleased
+to observe the rational manner in which the passengers amused
+themselves. Little groups were formed, where religion, politics and
+business matters were discussed with excellent sense and judgment.
+These seemed to be the common topics of discourse in both ends of the
+cabin. I frequented both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in
+either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush to the table; such a
+scene as the latter is only to be seen in America.
+
+The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:--
+
+"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!"
+
+Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, elbowing, until they
+take their seats. I was, however, particularly struck with the
+attention shown to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and
+the total absence of impure or profane expressions in conversation.
+How unlike the scenes one witnesses on board our steamboats in
+Britain, where the meaner sort of passengers seem to travel on purpose
+to indulge in drinking!
+
+I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress having been much
+retarded by the quantity of ice drifting in the river. Finding that
+the mail was to start for Canada in the course of the night, I decided
+on going with it, without seeing the capital of New York. Owing to the
+mildness of the season up to the present time, the roads were in
+the worst possible condition, and the motion of the carriage passing
+rapidly over the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently frozen
+solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful.
+
+We continued, however, to jolt on night and day, without rest, save
+during the short time necessary for changing or baiting cattle. The
+roads became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A considerable
+quantity of snow had fallen lately, which rendered travelling
+in a wheeled carriage not only disagreeable in the extreme, but
+also dangerous. We broke down several times, but without serious
+inconvenience. On one of these occasions we picked ourselves up
+opposite a farm house, in which we took shelter while the driver was
+putting matters to rights. It being yet early, the inmates were still
+in bed; we nevertheless found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth,
+and seated ourselves around it.
+
+All of a sudden the door of a small apartment flew open, and a large
+black cat sprang in amongst us.
+
+"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said one of the passengers,
+addressing himself to me. "What do you think of the ingenuity of our
+Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we should have had a page or
+two more to his notes; and I am sure it would have proved at least as
+interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's conversation with his
+cattle."
+
+"That's a fact," said I.
+
+After being jolted and pitched about until every bone in my body
+ached again, I reached St. John's on the 12th; and the snow being now
+sufficiently deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder
+of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    EMBARK FOR THE NORTH--PASSENGERS ARRIVE AT FORT
+    WILLIAM--DESPATCH FROM GOVERNOR--APPOINTED TO MACKENZIE'S
+    RIVER DISTRICT--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ADVENTURE ON GREAT SLAVE
+    LAKE--ARRIVE AT FORT SIMPSON--PRODUCTIONS OF THE POST.
+
+
+I spent the remainder of the winter enjoying the good things of this
+life, and on the 28th of April received orders to proceed to Lachine,
+preparatory to embarking for the north. I embarked on the 29th, but
+the crews were so intoxicated that we were compelled to land on an
+island near by, to allow them to recover from the effects of their
+carousals.
+
+I was joined here by Captain Stalk of the 71st, and Lieutenant Lefroy
+of the Artillery; the former accompanying us on a jaunt of pleasure,
+the latter on a scientific expedition. There were also four junior
+clerks in the Company's service. Our brigade consisted of three large
+canoes manned by about fifty Canadians, and Iroquois Indians.
+
+We were detained in our insular encampment by stress of weather until
+the 2d of May, when we set out. Our crews being now perfectly sober,
+plied their paddles with the utmost good-will, singing and whooping,
+apparently delighted with their situation. Ignorance here was bliss;
+they little dreamed of the life that awaited them. I may here premise,
+that as I have already narrated the particulars of a similar voyage,
+I shall pass on to the different stages of our route without noticing
+the uninteresting incidents of our daily progress.
+
+We arrived at Fort William on the 28th of May, where we exchanged our
+large Montreal canoes for smaller. Here Captain S. remained to await
+his passage back to Canada; not much disposed to try such a jaunt
+of pleasure again, I suspect,--and Lieutenant L., taking a canoe for
+himself with a view of prosecuting his scientific researches more at
+leisure than our go-a-head mode of travelling admitted, left us also.
+We were detained a day at Fort William, repairing canoes, arranging
+crews, &c., and on the 30th, I took leave of my excellent _compagnons
+de voyage_ with sincere regret.
+
+On descending Lac la Pluie River, we landed at an extensive Sauteux
+camp, where we found a Protestant (Methodist) Missionary, with a
+native interpreter as his only companion. I learned with much regret,
+that this gentleman's exertions in his vocation had been attended with
+little or no success, although he had been two years engaged in it;
+while the Romish priests, in the same space of time, had converted
+numbers.
+
+The natives were occupied with the sturgeon fishing, and had
+apparently been tolerably successful. Having procured a supply for the
+use of our crews by barter, we set off, and without experiencing any
+accident, reached Bas de la Rivière on the 13th of June, where I found
+letters from the Governor, directing me to proceed with all possible
+speed to York Factory.
+
+Having learned on my way coming up, that one of the gentlemen in
+McKenzie's River district had resigned, and would quit the country
+this year,--I felt convinced I should be appointed his successor; that
+being one of the most wretched parts of the Indian country, it was
+quite a matter of course that I should be sent thither. Knowing from
+dear-bought experience, however, that my constitution could no
+longer bear the hardships and privations to which I had been so long
+subjected, I wrote the Governor on the subject, and requested that
+he would grant me an appointment where I might enjoy some degree of
+comfort--a favour which I humbly conceived my former services entitled
+me to--otherwise I should retire from the service. We had a fine
+passage across Lake Winnipeg, and I landed at Norway House with all my
+party safe and sound, on the 18th of June. I remained there till the
+21st, and then set out for York Factory, where I had been about ten
+days, when an express arrived from Norway House with the Governor's
+final orders to me, and also his reply to my last communication, which
+I here insert at full length.
+
+"Red River Settlement, "_June_ 22, 1843.
+
+"DEAR SIR,
+
+"My eyes are so completely worn out, that I cannot give you a single
+private line under my own hand. I have perused with attention your
+private letter of the 14th instant, and should have been glad had it
+been in my power to have met your wishes in regard to an appointment;
+but from the few commissioned gentlemen disposable this season, it was
+quite impossible to consult wishes. You were, therefore, long before
+receipt of your letter, appointed to McKenzie's River. That is now one
+of the finest fields we have for extension of trade, and I count much
+on your activity for promoting our views in that quarter. But while
+directing your attention to the extension of _your district_, you must
+likewise use your best endeavours to curtail the indents, as they have
+of late been on a most alarming scale, comprehending nearly as many
+articles as appear in our Columbia requisition; if you look on my
+notes on the last requisition, you will find that I have been under
+the necessity of making some further curtailments. I am sorry the
+idea of retiring has entered your mind, as I was in hopes we could
+count upon some efficient services out of you while still young and
+vigorous.
+
+"The Company have of late declined making any purchases of retired
+interests; it would be therefore quite unnecessary to make any
+application on that head, as they have lost money by all the recent
+purchases they have made in that way.
+
+"I am at the Lower Fort, where Mr. Ross came in on me very
+unexpectedly, just as we were preparing to get on horseback for the
+upper part of the settlement, so that I am much pressed for time,
+which will account for the brevity of this communication.
+
+"Pray let me hear from you in Canada by the last canoes, as I shall
+not then have taken my departure from Montreal.
+
+"I remain, &c. &c.
+
+(Signed) "GEORGE SIMPSON."
+
+Judging, from the instructions contained in the above communication,
+that I was appointed to the charge of the district, I made up my mind
+to try how far my health could endure the hardships of which I already
+had had more than my share; and without a moment's delay, set out for
+Norway House in a light canoe, where I arrived on the 16th of July.
+My friend Mr. C---- arrived with his returns from Athabasca a few
+days afterwards, and his arrangements being completed on the 24th, I
+embarked as a passenger with him.
+
+We reached the small river Mithai on the 4th of September, when we
+found the water so low as barely to admit of the passage of the
+light boats. It happened most fortunately that there were a number of
+Chippewayan Indians encamped on the spot at the time, else we should
+have been completely at a nonplus. The crews, good souls! hired
+those Indians at their own expense, to carry the greater part of the
+property in their small canoes to the upper part of the river. At the
+portage we found a number of half-breeds, with their horses, from
+the Saskatchewan, awaiting our arrival, in the expectation of being
+employed to transport the goods. Nor were they disappointed; sooner
+than undergo the harassing toil of carrying the outfit across a
+portage of twelve miles, the men hired the half-breeds, parting with
+their most valuable articles in payment.
+
+Several propositions have been made, of late years, to the Governor,
+for sparing the men the inhuman labour of this portage, which they
+must either perform, or sacrifice a considerable part of their paltry
+wages to avoid it. It was suggested, for instance, that a sufficient
+number of horses should be stationed at a certain locality, with the
+requisite conveniences, near the portage, and a couple of men hired
+on purpose to take care of them, whose wages the winterers should
+pay out of their own pockets, which they readily assented to; as the
+transport, by this arrangement, would only cost them one-third of what
+it cost them to employ the half-breeds. His Excellency, however, was
+quite "sick" of the Portage La Loche subject; he knew as much about it
+as anybody, and felt quite assured that it was the easiest part of the
+men's duties throughout the voyage! While canoes were used, the duty
+at Portage la Loche was not nearly so severe as at present; a canoe
+carried only twenty-five pieces, and was manned by six men; a boat's
+crew consists only of seven men, while the cargo consists of from
+sixty to seventy pieces.
+
+The descent of the Clear Water and Athabasca rivers was effected
+without any accident, and we arrived at Athabasca on the 16th of
+September; whence I set out again, after a few days' delay, for Fort
+Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, where I was detained by stress of
+weather until the 29th.
+
+I left the post late in the evening, and intended to encamp on an
+island at a convenient distance; but the season being far advanced, I
+felt anxious to proceed, and inquired of my pilot whether he thought
+there would be any risk in travelling all night? "Not the least," was
+the reply; and we rowed on accordingly till morning; when lo! the only
+objects to be seen were sea and sky. In vain we strained the organs
+of vision to discover land; there we were, as if in the midst of the
+ocean, surrounded on all sides by the unbroken circle of the horizon.
+I do not know that I ever felt more seriously alarmed than at this
+moment, thus to find myself exposed on an unknown sea, as it might
+well be termed, in an open boat, and at such an advanced period of
+the season, without any means of ascertaining what course to steer for
+land. It would appear our steersman had been napping at the helm in
+the course of the night, and thus allowed the boat to deviate from her
+course without noticing it; hence the awkwardness and even the danger
+of our present situation.
+
+While considering with myself what was best to be done, a fine breeze
+sprang up; I ordered the sail to be hoisted immediately, determined on
+going before it until we made land, no matter where. Fortunately the
+wind continued steady all day, and we at length reached the land a
+little after sunset, having run at least forty miles. We put ashore
+at the first convenient landing we could find, and encamped for the
+night. Having consulted a map I had with me, and observing by the sun
+the direction in which we had crossed the lake, (for we had actually
+crossed it at its greatest width,) I could make out pretty clearly
+that we had turned our backs to our true course! We had, however, a
+good supply of provisions, and a voyageur is never discouraged while
+he has the provender before him. Having now learned, to my cost, what
+confidence my pilot was entitled to, I determined on keeping land in
+view for the future.
+
+We embarked early next morning, and, after a tedious and laborious
+passage of seven days, arrived at Big Island fishery at the outlet of
+the Lake on the 8th of October, where I found a boat ready to start
+with a cargo of fish, in which I embarked; and landing finally at Fort
+Simpson on the 16th, my long trip of five months _per mare et terram_,
+was brought to a close; and high time it should, for the weather was
+become excessively cold, and the ice was forming along the beach.
+
+I was much grieved to find Mr. Lewis confined to bed in consequence of
+a shocking accident he had lately met with, his right hand being blown
+off by the accidental discharge of his fowling-piece.
+
+Having perused the governor's official letter to Mr. Lewis, I found
+the following paragraph in it relating to myself:--"On retiring from
+the district next season, you will be pleased to invest Mr. McLean
+with the management, handing to that gentleman all correspondence,
+papers, &c., connected with the public business." This paragraph,
+taken in conjunction with the instructions I had previously received,
+confirmed both Mr. L. and myself in the opinion that I was to succeed
+him in the charge; and we took our measures accordingly.
+
+I was very agreeably surprised to find that the high latitude of this
+locality (61° north) did not prevent agricultural operations from
+being carried on with success. Although the season had been rather
+unfavourable, the farm yielded four hundred bushels of potatoes,
+and upwards of one hundred bushels of barley; the barnyard, with its
+stacks of barley and hay, and the number of horned cattle around it,
+had quite the air of a farm standing in the "old country." It is to be
+regretted that the gentlemen here should have paid so little attention
+to the cultivation of the soil in former times, as the produce
+would, ere now, not only have contributed to the support of the
+establishment, but have afforded assistance to the natives in years of
+scarcity.
+
+For these three years past the distress of the natives in this
+quarter has been without parallel; several hundreds having perished of
+want--in some instances, even at the gates of the trading post, whose
+inmates, far from having it in their power to relieve others, required
+relief themselves. Here, as in most other parts of the wooded country,
+rabbits form the principal subsistence of the natives, and when they
+fail, starvation is the sure and inevitable result; but no former
+period has been so productive of distress, to so fearful an extent, as
+the present. With the produce of the farm, Mr. L. was enabled to save
+the lives of all those who resorted to his own post; but at Forts Good
+Hope, Norman, and De Liard, no assistance could be given; as those
+posts, like most others in the Indian country, depend entirely on
+the means the country affords in fish, flesh, and fowl, for their
+subsistence.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    STATEMENTS IN THE EDINBURGH CABINET LIBRARY--ALLEGED
+    KINDNESS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY TO THE INDIANS--AND
+    GENEROSITY--SUPPORT OF MISSIONARIES--SUPPORT
+    WITHDRAWN--PREFERENCE OF ROMAN CATHOLICS--THE NORTH-WEST
+    COMPANY--CONDUCT OF A BRITISH PEER--RIVALRY OF THE
+    COMPANIES--COALITION--CHARGES AGAINST THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY
+    REFUTED.
+
+
+A volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, in which the Company's
+territories are described, came lately into my hands. It is there
+remarked, that "the Company's posts serve as hospitals, to which
+the Indians resort during sickness, and are supplied with food and
+medicine; that when winter arrives, the diseased and infirm are
+frequently left there; that the Company have made the most laudable
+efforts to instruct and civilize them, employing, at a great expense,
+Missionaries and Teachers," &c.
+
+I am well aware that the author of this valuable production took it
+for granted that the information he had obtained, relative to our
+treatment of the Indians, and other matters, was correct, or he would
+not have permitted it to go forth to the world under the authority
+and sanction of his name. But without intending any disrespect to the
+author, I take leave to state that the above quotations have not the
+slightest foundation in fact. Our posts serve as hospitals! I have now
+passed twenty-four years of my life-time in the country; I have served
+in every quarter of it; and I own that I have never yet known a single
+instance of an Indian being retained at any inland post for medical
+treatment. The knowledge the natives possess of the medicinal virtues
+of roots and herbs, is generally equal to the cure of all their
+ailments; and we are, in fact, more frequently indebted to them, than
+they to us, for medical advice. I may mention, however, by way of
+exception to the general rule, that the dépôts along the coast are
+well supplied with medicines, and that there are medical men there who
+administer them to the natives when they apply for them.
+
+In the interior we are allowed to doctor ourselves as we best can.
+What with the salubrity of the climate, and our abstemious fare, we
+are enabled, with the aid of a little Turlington balsam, and a dose
+of salts, perhaps, to overcome all our ailments. Most of us also use
+the lancet, and can even "spread a plaster, or give a glister," when
+necessary; but the Indians seldom trouble us.
+
+As to the instruction the natives receive from us, I am at a loss to
+know what it is, where imparted, and by whom given. "A tale I could,
+unfold!" But let it pass: certain it is, that neither our example nor
+our precept has had the effect of improving the morals or principles
+of the natives;--they are neither more enlightened, nor more
+civilized, by our endeavours, than if we had never appeared among
+them. The native interpreters even grow old in our service as ignorant
+of Christianity as the rudest savages who have never seen the face of
+a white man.
+
+The Church Missionary Society has had two Missionaries stationed at
+Red River settlement for some years past, one of whom is designated
+the Company's Chaplain, and is allowed 100l. per annum; the Roman
+Catholic bishop, too, receives his 100l., and doubtless understands,
+without any inspiration, the Company's policy in granting the annuity.
+The gentleman who conducts the academy has also 100l. a-year; thus we
+have 300l., forming the sum total of the "great expenses" the Company
+are at. It is quite true there are thirteen schools at Red River;
+there are also eighteen windmills, and the Company furnishes just as
+much wind for the mills as funds for the support of the schools or
+teachers. Other teachers than those above specified I have neither
+seen nor heard of.
+
+Some years ago five Missionaries were sent out to the Hudson's Bay
+territory by the Wesleyan Missionary Society. After having laboured
+for some time in the territory, by a decision of the Council the rank
+of commissioned gentleman, together with the usual allowances attached
+to that rank, was conferred on them.
+
+The Missionaries had every reason to be grateful for these acts of
+kindness, and they both felt and expressed their gratitude. Their
+object, however, in coming to the country was to serve God, not the
+Hudson's Bay Company; and they proceeded to discharge their duty in
+the manner their conscience approved, instructing and enlightening
+the natives with the zeal and perseverance for which their sect is
+so eminently distinguished. The good fruits were soon apparent; in
+some parts of the country successful attempts were made to collect
+the natives: they were taught to cultivate the soil, to husband
+their produce, so as to render them less dependent on fortuitous
+circumstances for a living; they were taught to read and write, and to
+worship God "in spirit and in truth," and numbers "were daily added
+to the Church;" when, lo! it was discovered that the time devoted
+to religious exercises, and other duties arising out of the altered
+circumstances of the converts, was so much time lost to the fur-hunt;
+and from the moment this discovery was made, no further encouragement
+was given to the innovators. Their labours were strictly confined to
+the stations they originally occupied, and every obstacle was thrown
+in the way of extending their missions. Even after some of them
+had travelled into the remotest parts, and opened up an amicable
+intercourse with the natives, they were told that collecting the
+Indians into villages was a measure not to be thought of, as the
+habitual indolence of the natives precluded the idea of their being
+induced to cultivate the soil; that even if they were so inclined, the
+country presented few localities fit for the purpose, &c.
+
+Notwithstanding the high authority whence these allegations emanated,
+I think I can show the reader that they are in a great measure without
+foundation.
+
+Here (in lat. 61° north)[2] we raise crops of barley and potatoes--the
+former in abundance every year,--the latter, however, are sometimes
+cut off by the frosts; but this is no more than happens in Canada,
+and many parts of the United States. The fact is, that there are many
+favourable situations for agriculture to be found in every district of
+the Company's territories, except perhaps one or two on the shores of
+Hudson's Bay. The banks of the Athabasca, Peace, Slave, and McKenzie
+rivers present many localities fit for farming operations; and in the
+more southern districts they are, of course, far more frequent.
+
+[Footnote 2: On the banks of the McKenzie River.]
+
+Had the Protestant ministers been allowed a free scope, and the
+encouragement they at first received been continued, they would ere
+now have had Missions established in many districts; and there can
+hardly be a doubt that they would have succeeded here, as elsewhere,
+in overcoming the natural sloth of the natives. Their good intentions,
+however, have been frustrated, and they have now the additional
+mortification of finding themselves supplanted by Romish priests, who,
+no later than last year, were allowed a free passage in the Company's
+craft, even to a district where a Protestant Missionary had been
+settled for several years previously, and had made considerable
+progress in converting the natives. Not only was he allowed a passage
+to the district, but he was lodged and entertained in the Company's
+establishment.
+
+The consequences of this strange procedure are obvious: the poor
+ignorant natives, hearing such conflicting doctrines, are at a loss
+what to think or what to believe; and, naturally enough, conclude that
+both are alike impostors, and therefore in many cases decline their
+instructions. It must be acknowledged, however, that the Romish priest
+is often more successful than the Protestant missionary, and that
+for obvious reasons. With the former, the Indian needs only profess
+a desire to become a Christian, and he is forthwith baptized; whereas
+with the latter, a probationary course--a trial of the proselyte's
+sincerity--is deemed indispensable. The peculiar dress, moreover,
+of the Romish ministers, and their imposing ritual, make a great
+impression on the senses of a barbarous people.
+
+"_He_ indeed," say the Indians, when speaking of the priest, "he
+indeed looks like a great 'man of medicine;' but these others are just
+like our traders; we can see no difference."
+
+The fact, too, need not be disguised, that we ourselves find the
+priests far more accommodating than these meddling parsons. The
+priests, for instance, allow us to amuse ourselves in any manner we
+think fit, week-day or Sunday; and far from finding fault, ten to
+one if they don't join in the sport; the Protestant minister, on
+the contrary, never allows a violation of the sacred day to pass
+unnoticed, nor fails to warn the delinquent of the consequences.
+The priest connives at the Indian's hunting on Sunday--the minister
+strictly forbids it: the priests are single--the ministers are
+generally married, and their maintenance of course involves a far
+heavier expense. Considering these things, no reasonable person can
+surely find fault with us for preferring those who allow us to put
+what construction we please on the moral law, and at the same time
+oppose no obstacles to the advancement of our temporal interests.
+
+And here I cannot but express my regret that our Protestant churches
+should have so long neglected the cultivation of a field that promised
+such rich harvests as the interior of America. The superstitions
+of the aborigines scattered through the Hudson's Bay Company's
+territories are so gross, and so inconsistent with unsophisticated
+common sense; and their prejudices in favour of them have been so much
+shaken by their intercourse with the gentlemen of the trading posts
+and the other Europeans, whom they are accustomed to look up to as
+beings of a superior race, that there could be but little difficulty
+in removing what _remains_ of these prejudices; and thus one of the
+greatest obstacles to the success of a Missionary in other parts of
+the heathen world, can scarcely be said to exist among them.
+
+The Church of England, it is true, has done a little, but she might
+have done more--much more. Had the Missionaries at Red River exerted
+themselves, from the time of their first arrival in the country, in
+educating _natives_ as Missionaries, and sent them forth to preach
+the Word, the pure doctrines of Christianity would, ere now, have been
+widely disseminated through the land. But nothing of this kind has
+been attempted: nor could it be attempted--now that I think of it--the
+laying on of "the hands of a Bishop" being indispensable.
+
+As to the diseased and infirm being frequently left at our posts in
+winter, all I can say is, that I have never seen any such at any
+of the posts I wintered at, or at any of the posts I visited; nor
+is it likely that, when we ourselves depend on the natives for a
+considerable part of our subsistence, we can do much to support them.
+We support neither old nor young, diseased nor infirm--that is the
+truth.
+
+In the work above quoted I find the following paragraph relating to
+the North-West Company.
+
+"Although the rivalry of the North-West Company had the effect of
+inspiriting and extending the trade; it was carried by them in many
+respects beyond the legitimate limits, not scrupling at open violence
+and bloodshed, in which Europeans and natives were alike sufferers."
+
+The controversy between those rival companies has long since been
+forgotten; but the subject being again obtruded on the public notice,
+evidently in the spirit of prejudice, there can be nothing improper, I
+presume, in representing matters in their true and proper light. Many
+of the individuals thus calumniated are still alive and settled in the
+civilized world, where they are esteemed for qualities diametrically
+opposite to those ascribed to them by their slanderer.
+
+It is well known that the chief advantages the Hudson's Bay Company
+now possess, they owe to the adventurous North-West traders; by these
+traders the whole interior of the savage wilds was first explored; by
+them the water communications were first discovered and opened up
+to commercial enterprise; by them the first trading posts were
+established in the interior; by them the natives were first reconciled
+to the whites; and by them the trade was first reduced to the regular
+system which the Hudson's Bay Company still follows. When all this
+had been done by the North-West Company, and they had begun to
+reap the reward of their toils, and hardships, and dangers, and
+expenditure--then did the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, led on by
+a British peer, step forward and claim, as British subjects, an equal
+right to share the trade.
+
+Their _noble_ leader appeared first in Montreal in the guise of a
+traveller, where he was received by the North-Westers with open arms,
+was kindly and hospitably entertained by them, his minutest inquiries
+regarding their system of trade were candidly and freely answered;
+and the information thus obtained in the character of a traveller,
+a guest, and a friend, he forthwith proceeded to use to effect
+their ruin. Had, however, the North-West Company continued true to
+themselves, all his arts and attempts would have failed. Had not
+dissension arisen in the ranks, it is clear that _they_--not
+the Hudson's Bay Company--would have granted the capitulation.
+Unfortunately for themselves, however, the partners in the interior,
+seeing the contest continue so long, and the expenses swallow up all
+the profits, despaired of the success that was almost within their
+grasp, and commencing a correspondence among themselves, finally
+determined on opening a negotiation with their rivals. Two of their
+number were accordingly sent home, invested with full powers to
+act for the general interest. Those gentlemen arrived just as the
+Directors of the North-West Company in London were about to conclude
+a most advantageous treaty--a few days more, and the articles had been
+ratified by the signatures of both parties. At this conjuncture the
+Delegates arrived, and instead of first communicating with their own
+Directors, went straight to the Hudson's Bay House, and presented
+their credentials. The Hudson's Bay Company saw their advantage, and
+instead of receiving, now dictated the terms; and thus the name of the
+North-West Company was merged in that of its rival, and the Canadian
+people were deprived of all interest in that trade which owed its
+origin to the courage and enterprise of their forefathers.
+
+Such were the relative circumstances of the Hudson's Bay and
+North-West Companies. From 1674 to 1813 the Hudson's Bay Company
+slumbered at its posts along the shores of Hudson's Bay, never
+attempting to penetrate beyond the banks of the Saskatchewan, until
+the North-Westers had led and cleared the way; and in this manner
+began their rivalry. That collisions should follow, marked by violence
+and outrage, need not be wondered at. But violence and outrage were
+not confined to one side; both parties exceeded the limits prescribed
+by law. Yet while stern justice alike condemns both, which is the more
+guilty party? or which has the greater claims on our sympathy?
+
+As to the North-West Company being guilty of the blood of innocent
+Indians,--the charge is as false as it is invidious. When the blood
+of their servants was shed without cause or provocation, as frequently
+happened when they first encountered the fierce savage, they punished
+the aggressors as the law of God allows, demanding "blood for blood."
+But while the author (or rather his informant, whose _ribbon_ I
+can plainly distinguish, although he strikes in the dark) so freely
+censures the North-West Company for avenging the murder of their
+people, does he mean to insinuate that nothing of the kind is done
+under the _humane_ and _gentle_ rule of the Hudson's Bay Company?
+What became of the Hannah Bay murderers? They were conveyed to Moose
+Factory, bound hand and foot, and there shot down by the orders of
+the Chief Factor. Did the murders committed by the natives at New
+Caledonia, Thompson's River, and the Columbia, pass unavenged? No! the
+penalty was fully paid in blood for blood.
+
+But since the author's informant seems disposed to "rake up the
+smouldering embers" of days bygone, I shall take the liberty of
+telling him of a tragedy that was enacted at the ancient date of
+1836-7. In that winter, a party of men, led by two clerks, was sent
+to look for some horses that were grazing at a considerable distance
+from the post. As they approached the spot they perceived a band of
+Assineboine Indians, eight in number (if I remember aright), on an
+adjacent hill, who immediately joined them, and, delivering up their
+arms, encamped with them for the night. Next morning a _court martial_
+was held by the two clerks and some of the men, to determine the
+punishment due to the Indians for having been found near the company's
+horses, with the _supposed_ intention of carrying them off. What was
+the decision of this mock court martial? I shudder to relate, that the
+whole band, after having given up their arms, and partaken of their
+hospitality, were condemned to death, and the sentence carried into
+execution on the spot,--all were butchered in cold blood!
+
+With the exception of the massacre of the Indians in McKenzie's River
+district in 1835, no such deed of blood had been heard of in the
+country. Yet our author's _impartial_ informant, perfectly acquainted
+as he was with all the circumstances of the case, and ready enough
+as he is to trumpet to the world the alleged crimes of the North-West
+Company, takes no notice of it! It may be said that the Company are
+not answerable for crimes committed by their servants without their
+knowledge. True; but when they are made fully acquainted with those
+misdeeds, and allow the perpetrators to escape with impunity, the
+guilt is transferred to their own head; "invitat culpam qui peccatum
+præterit." The proceedings of this court-martial were reported at
+head-quarters, and the punishment awarded to these murderers was--a
+reprimand! After this, what protection, or generosity, or justice, can
+the Indians he said to receive from the Hudson's Bay Company?
+
+The Indians to this day talk of their Northwest "fathers" with regret.
+"Our old traders, our fathers, did not serve us so," is a remark
+I have frequently heard in every part of the country where the
+North-West Company had established posts. Had their rule been
+distinguished by oppression or injustice, the natives would rather
+have expressed their satisfaction at its suppression; had it been
+tyrannical or oppressive, it would not have been long tolerated. The
+natives in those times were numerous and warlike; the trading-posts
+were isolated and far apart; and in the summer season, when the
+managers proceeded to the dépôts, with the greater part of their
+people, were entirely at the mercy of the natives, who would not have
+failed to take advantage of such opportunities to avenge their wrongs,
+had they suffered any. The posts, in fact, were left entirely to their
+protection, and depended on them for support during the absence of the
+traders, who, on their return in autumn, found themselves surrounded
+by hundreds of rejoicing Indians, greeting their "fathers" with every
+manifestation of delight;--he who had not a gun to fire strained his
+lungs with shouting.
+
+The native population has decreased at an extraordinary rate since
+those times. I do not mean to affirm that this decrease arises from
+the Hudson's Bay Company's treatment of them; but, from whatever cause
+arising, it is quite certain they have greatly decreased. Neither can
+it be denied, that the natives are no longer the manly, independent
+race they formerly were. On the contrary, we now find them gloomy and
+dispirited, unhappy and discontented.
+
+As to our vaunted "generosity" to the natives, I am at a loss to know
+in what it consists. When a band of Indians arrive at a trading post,
+each individual is presented with a few inches of tobacco; here (at
+Fort Simpson) in winter we add a fish to each. After their furs are
+traded, a few flints, awls, and hooks, and a trifle of ammunition is
+given them, in proportion to their hunts, and then--"Va-t-en." This is
+about the average amount of "generosity" they receive throughout the
+country; varied, however, by the differences of disposition observable
+in the Hudson's Bay Company's traders, as among all other mortals.
+Some of us would even withhold the awls and hooks, if we could;
+others, at the risk of being "hauled up" for extravagance, would add
+another hook to the number.
+
+Were the Company's standing rules and regulations acted upon, we might
+perhaps have some title to the generosity we boast of. In these rules
+we are directed to supply _poor_ Indians with ammunition and fishing
+tackle, gratis. This looks very well on paper; but are we allowed the
+means of bestowing these gratuities? Certainly not.[3] Our outfits,
+in many cases, are barely sufficient to meet the exigencies of the
+trade; they are continually reduced in proportion to the decrease in
+the returns; and the strictest economy is not only recommended, but
+enforced. On the due fulfilment of these commands our prospects in
+the service depend; and few indeed will think of violating them, or of
+sacrificing their own interests to benefit Indians. I repeat that, far
+from having it in our power to bestow anything gratuitously, we are
+happy when allowed sufficient means to barter for the furs the Indians
+bring us.
+
+[Footnote 3: When the Israelites were ordered to provide straw for
+their bricks, the material _could_ be procured in Egypt, although at
+the expense of great additional toil;--not so the supplies for the
+Indian trade; in the event of a deficiency, neither money nor labour
+can procure them.]
+
+The Company also make it appear by their standing rules, that we are
+directed to instruct the children, to teach the servants, &c.; but
+where are the means of doing so? A few books, I have been told, were
+sent out for this purpose, after the coalition; what became of them
+I know not. I never saw any. The history of commercial rule is well
+known to the world; the object of that rule, wherever established, or
+by whomsoever exercised, is gain. In our intercourse with the natives
+of America no other object is discernible, no other object is thought
+of, no other object is allowed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    ARRIVAL OF MR. LEFROY--VOYAGE TO THE LOWER POSTS OF THE
+    MACKENZIE--AVALANCHE--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--VOYAGE
+    TO PORTAGE LA LOCHE--ARBITRARY AND UNJUST CONDUCT OF THE
+    GOVERNOR--DESPOTISM--MY REPLY TO THE GOVERNOR.
+
+
+In the early part of this winter several Indians came in, complaining
+that they were starving for want of food; and their emaciated forms
+proved that they did not complain without cause. Our means, however,
+were too limited to afford them any effectual relief. We were glad to
+learn afterwards, that although many suffered, none died from actual
+want; and the rabbits soon afterwards appearing in greater numbers
+than had been seen for years past, relief was obtained.
+
+Towards the latter end of March, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr.
+Lefroy. This gentleman seems equal to all the hardships and privations
+of a voyageur's life, having performed the journey from Athabasca
+hither, a distance of at least six hundred miles, on snow-shoes,
+without appearing to have suffered any inconvenience from it; thus
+proving himself the ablest _mangeur de lard_ we have had in the
+country for a number of years: there are many of our old winterers
+who would have been glad to excuse themselves if required to undertake
+such a journey.
+
+The winter passed without any remarkable occurrence; and on the
+breaking up of the river, I set off for the lower posts, on the 23d
+of May, accompanied by Mr. Lefroy, whose zeal for scientific discovery
+neither cold, nor hunger, nor fatigue, seems to depress. We arrived
+at Fort Norman on the 27th of May; and after a few hours' delay,
+embarked, proceeding down stream, night and day.
+
+We reached Fort Good Hope on the 29th, late in the evening; but
+evening, morning, midnight, and noon-day, are much the same here: I
+wrote at midnight by the clear light of heaven. The scientific reader
+need not be informed, that within the arctic circle the sun is but a
+very short time beneath the horizon, during the summer solstice. The
+people of Fort Good Hope see him rising and setting behind the same
+hill; and in clear weather his rays shed a light above the horizon
+even after he is set; while during the winter solstice the same hill
+nearly conceals him from view. Yet the gentleman in charge of this
+post has passed two years without an inch of candle to light himself
+to bed; and his predecessor did the same; so that he has no reason to
+complain.
+
+On our way down we observed a land-slip, or avalanche of earth, that
+had just tumbled into the river. Mr. Lefroy examined the bank whence
+it had been detached, and found, by measurement, that the frozen
+ground was forty-six feet in depth!
+
+Our short sojourn at Fort Good Hope was rendered very unpleasant by
+the dismal weather; it continued snowing the whole time we remained.
+The storm abating, we embarked at an early hour, on the 31st of May,
+and had not proceeded above a few leagues, when a fair breeze sprang
+up, greatly to the satisfaction of all, but especially of the poor
+fellows whose toil it relieved. It continued increasing; reef after
+reef was taken in, till our sheet was finally reduced to a few feet
+in depth; yet so furious was the gale that we ascended the strongest
+current with nearly the same velocity we had descended; while the
+snow fell so thick, and the spray from the river was driven about
+so violently by the wind, that we could scarce see our way, and only
+escaped being dashed against the beach by keeping in the centre of the
+stream. It was also extremely cold; so that our situation in an open
+boat was not the most enviable.
+
+We arrived at Fort Norman on the 2d of June, about five, A.M.,
+and remained until eleven, A.M., when we embarked, the gale still
+continuing with unabated violence. Immediately after leaving the Fort
+the gale carried away our mast; fortunate it was for us that it gave
+way, else the boat must have capsized. We soon got another mast from
+the Fort, and sped on our way night and day, if it can be said there
+is any night here, when the light is so powerful as to throw the stars
+into the shade. Without experiencing much change in wind or weather,
+we arrived at Fort Simpson on the 8th of June; having thus performed
+a voyage of about 1,400 miles (going and coming) in eleven days,
+including stoppages. I found Mr. Lewis so far recovered from the
+effects of his wound as to be able to take the same active part in the
+management of affairs as formerly.
+
+The returns from the different posts being now received, we found them
+to amount to upwards of 15,000l. in value, according to the tariff
+of last year. Everything being ready for our departure, we left
+Fort Simpson on the 15th of June, Mr. Lefroy embarking with us.
+We proceeded to Great Slave Lake without interruption, the weather
+extremely fine. Within a day's rowing of Fort Resolution we
+encountered a field of ice that arrested our progress, till a change
+of wind carried it out to sea.
+
+The moment a passage opened we observed a large canoe making for our
+encampment. It proved to be Mr. Lefroy's, which he had left with the
+most of his people at Athabasca. Mr. Lefroy embarked in his own
+craft, and we proceeded to Fort Resolution in company; and as he had
+determined on following a different route to Athabasca, we parted
+here, most probably never to meet again in this life. Few gentlemen
+ever visited this country who acquired so general esteem as Mr.
+Lefroy; his gentlemanly bearing and affable manners endeared him to
+us all. We arrived at Athabasca on the 5th of July, and at Portage La
+Loche on the 25th, where we found an increased number of half-breeds
+waiting our arrival.
+
+The brigade from York Factory arrived with the outfit on the 2d of
+August, and we exchanged cargoes with the utmost expedition, they
+receiving the returns of the district, and we the outfit brought
+by them. By this conveyance I received letters from the Governor,
+acquainting me "that another gentleman was appointed to the charge
+of McKenzie's River District, and that he (the Governor) could
+not conceive on what grounds I fancied myself to be the person so
+appointed, as he was certain I could not have arrived at such a
+conclusion from perusing the instructions I had received from him last
+year!" Until now I thought I understood the English language as well
+as most people; but the Governor makes it appear plainly enough that I
+ought still to confine myself to the old Celtic.
+
+The instructions above referred to being given in the foregoing pages,
+I shall leave the reader to form his own opinion of one who, in
+the high and honourable position of a Governor, could treat so
+ungenerously one whom he admitted to be a faithful and meritorious
+servant, and whom he had acknowledged to be deserving of preferment:
+and that not on the present only, but on several former occasions.
+
+This last insult I consider the climax to the wrongs I have so long
+suffered. First I am appointed in the usual terms to the charge of a
+district. I am allowed to continue in that opinion for a twelvemonth;
+I enter into correspondence with the gentlemen of the district as
+their future superintendent, and make my arrangements with them as
+such; and, _au bout du compte_, am ordered back to the same district
+to mix with the crowd, and submit to another master. I leave it to
+the reader to judge whether such a Governor could possibly have the
+interests of the Company at heart; even supposing for a moment there
+were no _injustice_ in the case; I leave it to him to consider what
+effect a conduct and measures so vacillating, unsteady and arbitrary,
+are likely to have on the service and interests of the Company.
+
+This last act of the Governor made me completely disgusted with a
+service where such acts could be tolerated. In no colony subject to
+the British Crown is there to be found an authority so despotic as is
+at this day exercised in the mercantile Colony of Rupert's Land; an
+authority combining the despotism of military rule with the strict
+surveillance and mean parsimony of the avaricious trader. From
+Labrador to Nootka Sound the unchecked, uncontrolled will of a single
+individual gives law to the land. As to the nominal Council which is
+yearly convoked for form's sake, the few individuals who compose it
+know better than to offer advice where none would be accepted; they
+know full well that the Governor has already determined on his own
+measures before one of them appears in his presence. Their assent is
+all that is expected of them, and that they never hesitate to give.
+Many years pass without such a thing as a legally constituted Council
+being held. A legal Council ought to consist of seven members besides
+the Governor; three chief factors and four chief traders. The Council,
+however, seldom consists of more than five members and the Governor.
+
+Some years ago, I happened to be at an establishment where a "Council"
+was about to be held. On inquiring of his Excellency's Secretary what
+subject of moment he thought would first engage their attention--
+
+"Engage their attention!" he replied; "bless your heart, man! the
+minutes of Council were all drawn out before we arrived here; I have
+them in my pocket."
+
+Clothed with a power so unlimited, it is not to be wondered at that a
+man who rose from a humble situation should in the end forget what
+he was and play the tyrant. Let others, if they will, submit to be so
+ruled with a rod of iron. I at least shall not.
+
+In reply to his favour, I addressed the following letter to his
+Excellency, a transcript of which I transmitted to the Committee.
+
+"Portage La Loche, "_August_ 3, 1844.
+
+"To SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, Governor of Rupert's Land:--
+
+"SIR--I have the honour to acknowledge your several favours from
+Lachine and Red River, and am mortified to learn by them you should
+think me so stupid as not to understand your letters on the subject of
+my appointment to the charge of the district; your language being so
+clear, in fact, as to admit of no other construction than the one I
+put upon it. By referring to the minutes of Council for 1843, I find
+myself appointed to Fort Good Hope for that year; but you wrote me
+subsequently to the breaking up of the Council, and used these words:
+'That is now the finest field we have for the extension of trade,
+and I count much on your activity for promoting our views in that
+quarter. But while directing your attention to the extension of _your
+district_, you must also use your best endeavours to curtail the
+indents.'
+
+"Your letter to Mr. C.F. Lewis states, in nearly these words, that I
+'am appointed to succeed him;' and you beg of him 'to deliver into my
+hands all the documents that refer to the affairs of the district.'
+Mr. Lewis understood your letters in the same sense as myself, and
+so did every other person who perused them. What your object may
+have been in altering this arrangement afterwards, is best known
+to yourself; and whether such conduct can be reconciled with the
+principles of honour and integrity which you so strongly recommend in
+others, and which are so necessary to the well-being of society, is
+a question which I shall leave for the present to your own decision;
+while I cannot avoid remarking, that the treatment I have experienced
+from you on this and on many other occasions, is as unworthy of
+yourself and as unworthy of the high station you fill, as I am
+undeserving of it.
+
+"When in 1837, I was congratulated by every member of Council then
+present at Norway House on the prospect of my immediate promotion,
+(having all voted for me,) your authority was interposed, and I was,
+as a matter of course, rejected. You were then candid enough to tell
+me that I should not have your interest until the two candidates you
+then had in view were provided for, and that it would then be my turn.
+With this assurance from you I cheerfully prepared for my _exile_ to
+_Ungava_. _My turn_ only came, however, after _seven_ other promotions
+had been made, and I found myself the last on the list of three
+gentlemen who were promoted at the same time.
+
+"You are pleased to jest with the hardships I experienced while
+battling the watch with opposition in the Montreal department, and
+the privations I afterwards endured in New Caledonia. Surely, Sir, you
+ought to have considered it sufficient to have made me your dupe, and
+not add insult to oppression. While in the Montreal department I have
+your handwriting to show your approval of my 'meritorious conduct,'
+the course I was pursuing being 'the direct road to preferment;' and
+your intention, even then, 'to recommend me to the favourable notice
+of the Governor and Committee;'--promises in which I placed implicit
+confidence at the time, being as yet a stranger to the ways of the
+world.--The result of these promises, however, was that the moment
+opposition had ceased, I was ordered to resign my situation to
+another, and march to enjoy the 'delectable scenery' of New Caledonia;
+from thence you sent me to Ungava, where you say you are not aware I
+experienced any particular hardship or privation.
+
+"You are aware of the circumstances in which I found myself when I
+arrived there: that consideration was not allowed to interpose between
+me and my duty, however; and I accordingly traversed that desolate
+country in the depth of winter,--a journey that nearly cost myself
+and my companions our lives. I then continued to explore the country
+during the entire period of my command, and finally succeeded in
+discovering a practicable communication with Esquimaux Bay, and in
+determining the question so long involved in uncertainty as to the
+riches the interior possessed, and by so doing saved an enormous
+expense to the concern. The Hon. Committee are aware of my exertions
+in that quarter, themselves, as I had the honour of being in direct
+communication with them while there.
+
+  "I have the honour, &c.
+  (Signed)     "JOHN MCLEAN."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    SITUATION OF FORT SIMPSON--CLIMATE--THE LIARD--EFFECTS OF
+    THE SPRING FLOODS--TRIBES INHABITING MACKENZIE'S
+    RIVER DISTRICT--PECULIARITIES--DISTRESS THROUGH
+    FAMINE--CANNIBALISM--ANECDOTE--FORT GOOD HOPE SAVED BY THE
+    INTREPIDITY OF M. DECHAMBAULT--DISCOVERIES OF MR. CAMPBELL.
+
+
+Mr. Lewis embarked for York Factory on the 4th of August. I set out on
+my return on the 6th, and arrived at Fort Simpson on the 22d. Having
+prepared and sent off the outfit for the different posts with all
+possible expedition, I found myself afterwards at leisure to note down
+whatever I thought worthy of being recorded with reference to this
+section of the country.
+
+There are seven posts in this district; three on the River Liard and
+its tributaries; three on the banks of McKenzie's River, and one
+on Peel's River. About two degrees to the north of Good Hope, Fort
+Simpson, the dépôt of the district, is situated at the confluence of
+the Liard and McKenzie, in lat. 61° north. Heat and cold are here
+felt in the extremes; the thermometer frequently falls to 50° minus in
+winter, and rises sometimes to 100° in the shade in summer. The River
+Liard has its source in the south among the Rocky Mountains: its
+current is remarkably strong; and in the early part of summer, when
+swollen by the melting of the snow, it rushes down in a foaming
+torrent, and pours into the McKenzie, still covered with solid ice,
+when a scene ensues terrific and grand:--the ice, resisting for some
+time the force of the flood, ultimately gives way with the noise of
+thunder, and clashing, roaring and tumbling, it rolls furiously along
+until it accumulates to such an extent as to dam the river across.
+This again presents, for a time, a solid barrier to the flood, which
+is stopped in its course; it then rises sometimes to the height of
+thirty and forty feet, overflowing the adjacent country for miles,
+and levelling the largest trees with the ground. The effects of this
+frightful conflict are visible in all the lower grounds along the
+river. The trading posts are situated on the higher grounds, yet they
+are not secure from danger. Fort Good Hope was swept clean away some
+years ago, and its inmates only saved themselves by getting into a
+boat that happened fortunately to be at hand. The McKenzie opens about
+the end of May, and is ice-bound in November.
+
+The tribes who inhabit the banks of the McKenzie, and the interior
+parts of the district, are members of the powerful and numerous
+Chippewayan family, and are known by the names of Slaves, Dogribs,
+Rabbitskins, and Gens des Montagnes. The Loucheux, or Squint-Eyes,
+frequent the post on Peel's River, and speak a different language;
+their hunting-grounds are within the Russian boundary, and are
+supposed to be rich in fur-bearing animals. The Loucheux have no
+affinity with the Chippewayan tribes, nor with their neighbours, the
+Esquimaux, with whom, however, they maintain constant intercourse,
+though not always of the most friendly kind, violent quarrels
+frequently occurring between them. The various dialects spoken by
+the other tribes are intelligible to all; in manners, customs, and
+personal appearance, there is also the closest similarity.
+
+In one point, however, these tribes differ, not only from the parent
+tribe, but from all the other tribes of America;--they treat their
+women with the utmost kindness, the men performing all the drudgery
+that usually falls to the women. Here the men are the hewers of
+wood and drawers of water; they even clear away the snow for the
+encampment; and, in short, perform every laborious service. This is
+indeed passing strange;--the Chippewayans, and all other Indians,
+treat their women with harshness and cruelty; while the women on the
+banks of the McKenzie--Scotticé--"wear the breeks!" The Rabbitskins
+and Slaves are in truth a mild, harmless, and even a timid race; could
+it be this softness of disposition that induced the weaker sex first
+to dispute, and finally to assume the supremacy?--or what cause can be
+assigned for a trait so peculiar in this remotely situated portion of
+the Indian race?
+
+These tribes clothe themselves with the skins of rabbits, and feed on
+their flesh; when the rabbits fail, they are reduced to the greatest
+distress both for food and raiment. I saw a child that remained naked
+for several days after its birth, its parents having devoured every
+inch of their miserable dress that could be spared from their bodies:
+it was at last swaddled in crow's skins!
+
+These two tribes generally live near the banks of the great rivers,
+and seem disposed to pass their pilgrimage on earth with as little
+toil, and as little regard to comfort, as any people in being. They
+pass summer and winter in the open air; they huddle together in an
+encampment, without any other shelter from the inclemency of the
+weather than what is afforded by the spreading branches of some
+friendly pine, and use no more fire than what is barely sufficient to
+keep them from freezing. Their wants are few, and easily provided
+for; when they have killed a few deer to afford them sinews for making
+rabbit-snares, they may be said to be independent for the remainder of
+the season. Their work consists in setting those snares, carrying home
+the game caught in them, eating them when cooked, and then lying down
+to sleep. A taste, however, for articles of European manufacture is
+gaining ground among them, and to obtain those articles a more active
+life is necessary, so that some tolerable fur-hunters are now to be
+found among them.
+
+The Dogribs occupy the barren grounds that are around Great Bear Lake,
+and extend to the Copper-mine River. That part of the country abounds
+in rein-deer, whose skin and flesh afford food and raiment to the
+natives. They are a strong, athletic, well-formed race of Indians, and
+are considered more warlike than their neighbours, who evidently dread
+them.
+
+None of the Indians who frequent the posts on McKenzie's River have
+hereditary chiefs; the dignity is conferred by the gentlemen in charge
+of posts on the best hunters. On these occasions a suit of clothes
+is bestowed, the most valued article of which is a coat of coarse red
+cloth, decorated with lace; and, as the reward of extraordinary merit,
+a felt hat is added, ornamented in the same manner, with a feather
+stuck in the side of it. Thus equipped, the new-made chief sallies
+forth to receive the gratulations of his admiring friends and
+relatives, among whom the coat is ultimately divided, and probably
+finishes its course in the shape of a tobacco-pouch. In course of
+time, the individuals thus distinguished obtain some weight in the
+councils of their people, but their influence is very limited; the
+whole of the Chippewayan tribes seem averse to superior rule.
+
+Like the Esquimaux and Carriers, they seem to have had no idea of
+religion prior to the settlement of Europeans among them; all the
+terms they at present use in reference to the subject seem of recent
+origin, and invented by the interpreters. They name the Deity, "Ya
+ga ta-that-hee-hee,"--"The Man who reclines on the sky;" angels are
+called "the birds of the Deity,"--"ya gat he-be e Yadzé;" the devil,
+"Ha is linee," or, "the sorcerer."
+
+The Slaves and Rabbitskins have also their magicians, whom alone they
+fear and reverence. Polygamy is not common, yet there are instances of
+one man having two _female masters_. In times of famine the cravings
+of hunger often drive these poor Indians to desperation, when the
+feelings of humanity and of nature seem utterly eradicated.
+
+During the fearful distress of the two past years, a band of Slaves
+came to Fort Simpson in a condition not to be described. Many of them
+had perished by the way; but the history of one family is the most
+shocking I ever heard. The husband first destroyed the wife, and
+packed her up as provision for the journey. The supply proving
+insufficient, one of the children was next sacrificed. The cannibal
+was finally left by the party he accompanied with only one child
+remaining--a boy of seven or eight years of age. Mr. Lewis immediately
+despatched two men with some pemmican, to meet him; the aid came too
+late,--they found the monster roasting a part of his last child at the
+fire. Horrified at the sight, they uttered not a word, but threw the
+provisions into the encampment, and retreated as fast as they could. A
+few days afterwards this brute arrived strong and hearty, and appeared
+as unconcerned as if all had gone on well with him and his family.
+Cannibalism is more frequently known among the Slaves and Rabbitskins
+than any other of the kindred tribes; and it is said that women are
+generally the perpetrators of the crime; it is also said, that when
+once they have tasted of this unhallowed food they prefer it to every
+other.
+
+All the Chippewayan tribes dispose of their dead by placing them in
+tombs made of wood, and sufficiently strong to resist the attacks of
+wild beasts. The body is laid in the tomb at full length, without any
+particular direction being observed as to the head or feet. Neither
+they, nor any other Indians I am acquainted with, place their dead in
+a sitting posture.
+
+It is affirmed by some writers that the Indians have a tradition among
+them of the migration of their progenitors from east to west. I
+have had every opportunity of investigating the question, and able
+interpreters wherever I wintered; but I never could learn that any
+such tradition existed. Even in their tales and legends there is never
+any reference to a distant land; when questioned in regard to this,
+their invariable answer is, "Our fathers and our fathers' fathers have
+hunted on these lands ever since the flood, and we never heard of any
+other country till the whites came among us." These tribes have
+the same tradition in regard to the flood, that I heard among the
+Algonquins at the gates of Montreal, some trifling incidents excepted.
+
+Unlike most other Indians, the Slaves have no fixed bounds to their
+hunting-grounds, but roam at large, and kill whatever game comes in
+their way, without fear of their neighbours. The hunter who first
+finds a beaver-lodge claims it as his property, but his claim is not
+always respected.
+
+Besides the Indians enumerated in the preceding pages, a number of
+stragglers, but little known to us, occasionally resort to the post.
+A band of these--nine in number--made their appearance at Fort Norman
+this summer; and, after trading their furs, set out for Fort Good
+Hope, with the avowed intention of plundering the establishment, and
+carrying off all the women they could find. On arriving at the post
+they rushed in, their naked bodies blackened and painted after the
+manner of warriors bent on shedding blood; each carrying a gun and
+dirk in his hands.
+
+The chief, on being presented with the usual gratuity--a piece of
+tobacco, rudely refused it; and commenced a violent harangue against
+the whites, charging them with the death of all the Indians who had
+perished by hunger during the last three years; and finally challenged
+M. Dechambault, the gentleman in charge of the post, to single
+combat. M. Dechambault, _dicto citius_, instantly sprung upon him,
+and twisting his arm into his long hair, laid him at his feet; and
+pointing his dagger at his throat, dared him to utter another word.
+So sudden and unexpected was this intrepid act, that the rest of the
+party looked on in silent astonishment, without power to assist their
+fallen chief, or revenge his disgrace. M. Dechambault was too generous
+to strike a prostrate foe, even although a savage, but allowed the
+crest-fallen chief to get on his legs again; and thus the affair
+ended.
+
+The Company owe the safety of the establishment to Mr. D.'s
+intrepidity: had he hesitated to act at the decisive moment, the game
+was up with him, for he had only two lads with him, on whose aid he
+could place but little reliance. Mr. D. has been thirty years in the
+Company's service, and is still a _clerk_; but he is himself to blame
+for his want of promotion, having been so inconsiderate as to allow
+himself to be born in Canada, a crime which admits of no expiation.
+
+This district is at present by far the richest in furs of any in the
+country; this is owing partly to the indolence of the natives, and
+partly to the circumstance of the beaver in some localities being,
+through the barrenness of the surrounding country, inaccessible to the
+hunter. When the haunts of the animal become overcrowded, they send
+forth colonies to other quarters.
+
+At the first arrival of the Europeans, large animals, especially
+moose and wood rein-deer, were abundant everywhere. In those times the
+resources of the district were adequate to the supply of provisions
+for every purpose; whereas, of late years, we have been under the
+necessity of applying for assistance to other districts.
+
+A new field has lately been laid open for the extension of the trade
+of this district. An enterprising individual--Mr. R. Campbell--having
+been for several years employed in exploring the interior, last summer
+succeeded in finding his way to the west side of the Rocky Mountain
+chain. The defile he followed led him to the banks of a very large
+river, on which he embarked with his party of hardy pioneers; and
+following its course for several days through a charming country,
+rich in game of every description--elk, rein-deer, and beaver, he
+eventually fell in with Indians, who received them kindly, although
+they had never seen Europeans before. From them he learned that a
+party of whites, Russians of course, had ascended the river in the
+course of the summer, had quarrelled with the natives, and killed
+several of them; and that the whites had returned forthwith to the
+coast. These friendly Indians entreated Mr. C. to proceed no farther,
+representing that he and his party were sure to fall victims to their
+revenge. This, however, could not shake his resolution; he had set out
+with the determination of proceeding to the sea at all hazards, and no
+prospect of danger could turn him from it; till his party refused to
+proceed farther on any conditions, when he was compelled to return.
+
+The returns of this district have, for years past, averaged 12,000l.
+per annum; the outfit, including supplies for officers and servants,
+has not exceeded as many hundreds. The affairs of the different posts
+are managed by seven or eight clerks and postmasters; and there are
+about forty hired servants--Europeans, Canadians, and half-breeds;
+Indians are hired for the trip to the portage. The living for some
+years past has not been such as Gil Blas describes, as "fit to tickle
+the palate of a bishop;" at Fort Simpson we had, for the most part
+of the season, fish and potatoes for breakfast, potatoes and fish
+for dinner, and cakes made of flour and grease for supper. The fish
+procured in this quarter is of a very inferior quality.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    MR. MACPHERSON ASSUMES THE COMMAND--I AM APPOINTED TO FORT
+    LIARD, BUT EXCHANGE FOR GREAT SLAVE LAKE--THE INDIANS--RESOLVE
+    TO QUIT THE SERVICE--PHENOMENA OF THE LAKE.
+
+
+On the 2d of October Mr. McPherson arrived from Canada, and I
+forthwith demitted the charge. I was now appointed to Fort Liard, but
+the season being far advanced, it had been found necessary to appoint
+another previously, whose arrangements for the season being completed,
+it was deemed expedient that I should pass the winter at Great Slave
+Lake; and I embarked for that station accordingly on the 4th, and
+arrived on the 16th.
+
+This post formerly belonged to Athabasca, but is now transferred
+to McKenzie's River district. The natives consist of Chippewayans,
+properly so called, and Yellow Knives, a kindred tribe; the former
+inhabit the wooded parts of the country, extending along the northern
+and eastern shores of the lake; and the latter, the opposite side
+extending towards the Arctic regions, where there is no wood to be
+found; it abounds, however, in rein-deer and musk oxen. The Yellow
+Knives were at one time a powerful and numerous tribe; but their
+number has been greatly diminished by a certain disease that lately
+prevailed among them, and proved peculiarly fatal. They also waged
+a short but bloody war with the Dogribs, that cost many lives. They
+muster at present between sixty and eighty men able to bear arms.
+
+The Chippewayans in this quarter are a shrewd sensible people, and
+evince an eager readiness to imitate the whites. Some years ago a
+Methodist Missionary visited Athabasca; and although he remained but
+a short time, his instructions seemed to have made a deep impression.
+They observe the Sabbath with great strictness, never stirring from
+their lodges to hunt, nor even to fetch home the game when killed,
+on that day; and they carefully abstain from all the grosser vices
+to which they formerly were addicted. What might not be expected of
+a people so docile, if they possessed the advantages of regular
+instruction!
+
+Having fortunately a supply of books with me, and other means of
+amusement, I found the winter glide away without suffering much
+from ennui; my health, however, proved very indifferent; and that
+circumstance alone would have been sufficient to induce me to quit
+this wretched country, even if my earlier prospects had been realized,
+as they have not been. From the accompt current, I find my income
+as chief trader for 1841 amounts to no more than 120l.: "Sic vos non
+vobis mellificatis apes;" and since things are come to this pass,
+it is high time I should endeavour to make honey for myself, in
+some other sphere of life. I therefore transmitted my resignation to
+head-quarters.
+
+I cannot close this chapter without mentioning a singular phenomenon
+which the lake presents in the winter season. The ice is never less
+than five feet in thickness, frequently from eight to nine; yet the
+water under this enormous crust not only feels the changes in the
+atmosphere, but anticipates them. An approaching change of wind or
+weather is known twenty-four hours before it occurs. For instance,
+while the weather is perfectly calm, if a storm be at hand, the lake
+becomes violently agitated the day before; when calm weather is to
+succeed, it is indicated in like manner by the previous stillness of
+the lake, even when the gale is still raging in the air. In summer
+there is no perceptible current in the lake; in winter, however, a
+current always sets in the direction of the wind, and indicates a
+change of wind by running in a different direction. These curious
+points have been ascertained by the long observation of our fishermen,
+who, in the beginning of winter, bore holes in the ice for the purpose
+of setting their lines, and visit them every day, both in order to
+keep them open, and to take up what fish may be caught.
+
+In consequence of the frequent shifting of the current, they
+experience no little difficulty in adjusting their lines, the current
+being occasionally so strong as to raise them to an angle of forty
+degrees. Thus, if the lines were too long, and the current not very
+strong, they would drag on the bottom; if too short, and the current
+strong, they would be driven up upon the ice. The approach of a storm
+is indicated, not by any heaving of the ice, but by the strength of
+the current, and the roaring of the waves under the ice, which is
+distinctly heard at a considerable distance, and is occasionally
+increased by the collision of detached masses of broken ice, which, in
+the earlier part of the season, have been driven under the main crust.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    REFLECTIONS--PROSPECTS IN THE SERVICE--DECREASE OF THE
+    GAME--COMPANY'S POLICY IN CONSEQUENCE--APPEAL OF THE
+    INDIANS--MEANS OF PRESERVING THEM, AND IMPROVING THEIR
+    CONDITION--ABOLITION OF THE CHARTER--OBJECTIONS ANSWERED.
+
+
+The history of my career may serve as a warning to those who may be
+disposed to enter the Hudson's Bay Company's service. They may learn
+that, from the moment they embark in the Company's canoes at Lachine,
+or in their ships at Gravesend, they bid adieu to all that civilized
+man most values on earth. They bid adieu to their family and friends,
+probably for ever; for if they should remain long enough to attain the
+promotion that allows them the privilege of revisiting their native
+land--a period of from twenty to twenty-five years--what changes does
+not this life exhibit in a much shorter time? They bid adieu to all
+the comforts and conveniences of civilized life, to vegetate at some
+desolate, solitary post, hundreds of miles, perhaps, from any other
+human habitation, save the wig-wam of the savage; without any other
+society than that of their own thoughts, or of the two or three
+humble individuals who share their exile. They bid adieu to all
+the refinement and cultivation of civilized life, not unfrequently
+becoming semi-barbarians,--so altered in habits and sentiments, that
+they not only become attached to savage life, but eventually lose all
+relish for any other.
+
+I can give good authority for this. The Governor, writing me last
+year regarding some of my acquaintances who had recently retired,
+observes--"They are comfortably settled, but apparently at a loss what
+to do with themselves; and sigh for the Indian country, the squaws,
+and skins, and savages."
+
+Such are the rewards the Indian trader may expect;--add to these, in
+a few cases, the acquisition of some thousands, which, after forty
+years' exile, he has neither health, nor strength, nor taste to enjoy.
+Few instances have occurred of gentlemen retiring with a competency
+under thirty-five or forty years' servitude, even in the best days of
+the trade; what period may be required to attain that object in these
+times, is a question not easily solved. Up to 1840, one eighty-fifth
+share had averaged 400l. per annum; since then, however, the dividends
+have been on the decline, nor are they ever likely to reach the same
+amount, for several reasons,--the chief of which is the destruction of
+the fur-bearing animals.
+
+In certain parts of the country, it is the Company's policy to destroy
+them along the whole frontier; and our general instructions recommend
+that every effort be made to lay waste the country, so as to offer no
+inducement to petty traders to encroach on the Company's limits. Those
+instructions have indeed had the effect of ruining the country, but
+not of protecting the Company's domains. Along the Canadian frontier,
+the Indians, finding no more game on their own lands, push beyond the
+boundary, and not only hunt on the Company's territory, but carry a
+supply of goods with them, which they trade with the natives. Their
+Honours' fiat has also nearly swept away the fur animals on the west
+side of the Rocky Mountains; yet I doubt whether all this precaution
+will ensure the integrity of their domains. The Americans have taken
+possession of the Columbia, and will speedily multiply and increase:
+ere many years their trappers will be found scouring the interior,
+from the banks of the Columbia to New Caledonia, and probably
+penetrating to the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Should they
+do so, that valuable part of the country embraced by the Peace and
+McKenzie Rivers would soon be ruined; for the white trapper makes
+a clean sweep wherever he goes. Taking all these circumstances
+into consideration, I do not see any great probability--to say the
+least--that the trade will ever attain the prosperity of days bygone.
+
+Even in such parts of the country as the Company endeavour to
+preserve, both the fur-bearing and larger animals have of late become
+so scarce, that some tribes are under the necessity of quitting their
+usual hunting-grounds. A certain gentleman, in charge of a district to
+which some of those Indians withdrew, on being censured for harbouring
+them in his vicinity, writes thus:--"Pray, is it surprising, that poor
+Indians, whose lives are in jeopardy, should relish a taste of buffalo
+meat? It is not the Chippewayans alone that leave their lands to go
+in search of food to preserve their lives; the Strongwood Crees and
+Assineboines are all out in the plains, because, as they affirm, their
+usual hunting-grounds are so exhausted that they cannot live upon
+them. It is no wish of mine that those Indians should visit us--we
+have trouble enough with our own,--but to turn a poor Indian out of
+doors, who arrives at the Company's establishment nearly dead with
+hunger, is what I am not able to do."
+
+In the work already quoted I find it stated "that the Company have
+carefully nursed the various animals, removing their stations from the
+various districts where they had become scarce, and taking particular
+care to preserve the female while pregnant! instead, therefore, of
+being in a state of diminution, as generally supposed, the produce is
+increasing throughout their domains." Fudge! It is unnecessary to
+say, that if this statement were correct, we should not hear such
+distressing accounts of starvation throughout the country. No people
+can be more attached to their native soil than the Indians; and it is
+only the most pressing necessity that ever compels them to remove.
+
+In 1842 the Governor and Committee issued positive orders that the
+beavers should be preserved, and every effort made to prevent the
+Indians from killing them for a period of three years. This was, in a
+great measure, "shutting the stable door after the steed was stolen."
+The beavers had already been exterminated in many parts of the
+country; and even where some were yet to be found, our injunctions to
+the natives to preserve them had but little weight. To appease their
+hunger they killed whatever game came in their way, and as we were
+not permitted to buy the beaver skins, they either converted them into
+articles of clothing for themselves or threw them away. Now (1845) the
+restriction is removed, and the beavers have sensibly increased; but
+mark the result: the natives are not only encouraged but strenuously
+urged to hunt, in order that the parties interested may indemnify
+themselves for their lost time; and ere three years more shall have
+elapsed, the beaver will be found scarcer than ever.
+
+It is thus evident that whatever steps their Honours may take to
+preserve the game, the attainment of that object, in the present
+exhausted state of the country, is no longer practicable.
+
+As to the Company's having ever issued orders, or recommended any
+particular measures for the preservation of the larger animals, male
+or female, the statement is positively untrue. The minutes of the
+Council are considered the statutes of the land, and in them the
+provision districts are directed to furnish so many bags of pemmican,
+so many bales of dry meat, and so many cwt. of grease, every year; and
+no reference whatever is made to restrictions of any kind in killing
+the animals. The fact is, the provisions must be forthcoming whatever
+be the consequence; our business cannot be carried on without them.
+
+That the natives wantonly destroy the game in years of deep snow is
+true enough; but the snow fell to as great a depth before the advent
+of the whites as after, and the Indians were as prone to slaughter the
+animals then as now; yet game of every description abounded and
+want was unknown. To what cause then are we to ascribe the present
+scarcity? There can be but one answer--to the destruction of the
+animals which the prosecution of the fur-trade involves.
+
+As the country becomes impoverished, the Company reduce their outfits
+so as to ensure the same amount of profit,--an object utterly beyond
+their reach, although economy is pushed to the extreme of parsimony;
+and thus, while the game becomes scarcer, and the poor natives require
+more ammunition to procure their living, their means of obtaining
+it, instead of being increased, are lessened. As an instance of the
+effects of this policy, I shall mention what recently occurred in the
+Athabasca district.
+
+Up to 1842 the transport of the outfit required four boats, when it
+was reduced to three. The reduction in the article of ammunition was
+felt so severely by the Chippewayans, that the poor creatures, in
+absolute despair, planned a conspiracy to carry off the gentleman at
+the head of affairs, and retain him until the Company should restore
+the usual outfit.
+
+Despair alone could have suggested such an idea to the Chippewayans,
+for they have ever been the friends of the white man. Mr. Campbell,
+however, who had passed his life among them, conducted himself with so
+much firmness and judgment, that, although the natives had assembled
+in his hall with the intention of carrying their design into
+execution, the affair passed over without any violence being
+attempted.
+
+The general outfit for the whole northern department amounted in 1835,
+to 31,000l.; now (1845) it is reduced to 15,000l., of which one-third
+at least is absorbed by the stores at Red River settlement, and a
+considerable portion of the remainder by the officers and servants of
+the Company throughout the country. I do not believe that more than
+one half of the outfit goes to the Indians.
+
+While the resources of the country are thus becoming yearly more and
+more exhausted, the question naturally suggests itself, What is to
+become of the natives when their lands can no longer furnish the means
+of subsistence? This is indeed a serious question, and well worthy of
+the earnest attention of the philanthropist. While Britain makes such
+strenuous exertions in favour of the sable bondsmen of Africa, and
+lavishes her millions to free them from the yoke, can nothing be done
+for the once noble, but now degraded, aborigines of America? Are
+they to be left to the tender mercies of the trader until famine and
+disease sweep them from the earth? People of Britain! the Red Men of
+America thus appeal to you;--from the depths of their forest they send
+forth their cry--
+
+  "Brethren! beyond the Great Salt Lake, we, the Red Men of America
+          salute you:--
+  "Brethren!
+
+"We hear that you are a great and a generous people; that you are as
+valiant as generous; and that you freely shed your blood and scatter
+your gold in defence of the weak and oppressed; if it be so, you will
+open your ears to our plaints.
+
+"Brethren! Our ancients still remember when the Red Men were numerous
+and happy; they remember the time when our lands abounded with game;
+when the young men went forth to the chase with glad hearts and
+vigorous limbs, and never returned empty; in those days our camps
+resounded with mirth and merriment; our youth danced and enjoyed
+themselves; they anointed their bodies with fat; the sun never set on
+a foodless wigwam, and want was unknown.
+
+"Brethren! When your kinsmen came first to us with guns, and
+ammunition, and other good things the work of your hands, we were glad
+and received them joyfully; our lands were then rich, and yielded with
+little toil both furs and provisions to exchange for the good things
+they brought us.
+
+"Brethren! Your kinsmen are still amongst us; they still bring us
+goods, and now we cannot want them; without guns and ammunition we
+must die. Brethren! our fathers were urged by the white men to hunt;
+our fathers listened to them; they ranged wood and plain to gratify
+their wishes; and now our lands are ruined, our children perish with
+hunger.
+
+"Brethren! We hear that you have another Great Chief who rules over
+you, to whom even our great trading Chief must bow; we hear that this
+great and good Chief desires the welfare of all his children; we hear
+that to him the white man and the red are alike, and, wonderful to
+be told! that he asks neither furs nor game in return for his bounty.
+Brethren! we feel that we can no longer exist as once we did; we
+implore your Great Chief to shield us in our present distress; we
+desire to be placed under his immediate care, and to be delivered
+from the rule of the trading Chief who only wants our furs, and cares
+nothing for our welfare.
+
+"Brethren! Some of your kinsmen visited us lately; they asked neither
+our furs nor our flesh; their sojourn was short; but we could see
+they were good men; they advised us for our good, and we listened to
+them. Brethren! We humbly beseech your Great Chief that he would send
+some of those good men to live amongst us: we desire to be taught
+to worship the Great Spirit in the way most pleasing to him: without
+teachers among us we cannot learn. We wish to be taught to till the
+ground, to sow and plant, and to perform whatever the good white
+people counsel us to do to preserve the lives of our children.
+
+"Brethren! We could say much more, but we have said enough,--we wish
+not to weary you.
+
+"Brethren! We are all the children of the Great Spirit; the red man
+and the white man were formed by him. And although we are still in
+darkness and misery, we know that all good flows from him. May he turn
+your hearts to pity the distress of your Red Brethren! Thus have we
+spoken to you."
+
+Such are the groans of the Indians. Would to Heaven they were heard by
+my countrymen as I have heard them! Would to Heaven that the misery
+I have witnessed were seen by them! The poor Indians then would
+not appeal to them in vain. I can scarcely hope that the voice of a
+humble, unknown individual, can reach the ears, or make any impression
+on the minds of those who have the supreme rule in Britain; but if
+there are there men of rank, and fortune, and influence, whose hearts
+sympathise with the misery and distress of their fellow-men, whatever
+be their country or hue--and, thank God! there are not a few--it is to
+those true Britons that I would appeal in behalf of the much-wronged
+Indians; the true and rightful owners of the American soil.
+
+If I am asked what I would suggest as the most effective means for
+saving the Indians, I answer: Let the Company's charter be abolished,
+and the portals of the territory be thrown wide open to every
+individual of capital and enterprise, under certain restrictions; let
+the British Government take into its hands the executive power of
+the territory, and appoint a governor, judges, and magistrates; let
+Missionaries be sent forth among the Indians;--already the whole
+of the Chippewayan tribes, from English River to New Caledonia, are
+disposed to adopt our religion as well as our customs, so that the
+Missionaries' work is half done. Let those of them who manifest
+a disposition to steady industry be encouraged to cultivate the
+ground: let such as evince any aptitude for mechanics be taught
+some handicraft, and congregated in villages, wherever favourable
+situations can be found--and there is no want of them. Let schools be
+established and supported by Government--not mere _common_ schools,
+where reading, writing, arithmetic, and perhaps some of the higher
+branches may be taught; but _training_ and _industrial_ schools. Where
+the soil or climate is unfit for husbandry, other means of improving
+their condition might be resorted to. In the barren grounds, bordering
+on the Arctic regions, rein-deer still abound. Why should not the
+Indians succeed in domesticating these animals, and rendering them
+subservient to their wants, as the Laplanders do? I have been informed
+that the Yellow Knives, and some of the other tribes inhabiting these
+desert tracts, have the art of taming the fawns, which they take in
+great numbers while swimming after their dams, so that they follow
+them like dogs till they see fit to kill them.
+
+Such, in brief, are the measures which, after much experience, and
+long and serious consideration, I would venture to propose in behalf
+of the Indians; and most happy shall I be if anything I have said
+shall have the effect of awakening the public interest to their
+condition; or form the groundwork of any plan which, by the blessing
+of God, may have the effect of preserving and christianizing the
+remnants of these unhappy tribes.
+
+It may be objected, that the Company have had their charter renewed
+for a period of twenty-one years, which does not expire till 1863;
+and that Government is bound in honour to sustain the validity of the
+deed. But if Government is bound to protect the _interests_ of the
+Hudson's Bay Company, is it less bound to protect the _property_ and
+_lives_ of their weak, ignorant, and wronged subjects? The validity of
+the original charter, the foundation of the present, is, however, more
+than questioned: nay, it has been declared by high authority to be
+null and void. Admitting its validity, and admitting that the dictates
+of honour call for the fulfilment of the charter in guarding the
+_profits_ of the few individuals (and their dependants) who assemble
+weekly in the old house in Fenchurch Street; are we to turn a deaf ear
+to the still small voice of justice and humanity pleading in behalf
+of the numerous tribes of perishing Indians? Now, now is the time to
+apply the remedy; in 1863, where will the Indian be?
+
+If it is urged that the measures I propose violate the charter,
+deprive the Company of their sovereignty, and reduce them to the
+situation of subjects; still, I say, they will have vast advantages
+over every other competitor. Their ample resources, their long
+exclusive possession of the trade, their experience, the skill and
+activity of their agents, will long, perhaps permanently, secure to
+them the greatest portion of the trade; while the Indians will be
+greatly benefited by a free competition.
+
+If it be urged that the profits will be so much reduced by
+competition, that the trade will not be worth pursuing; I answer,
+that competition has certainly a natural tendency to reduce profits;
+but experience proves that it has also a tendency to reduce costs.
+A monopolist company never goes very economically to work; and,
+although much economy, or rather parsimony, of a very questionable and
+impolitic kind, has been of late years attempted to be introduced into
+the management of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, a free and fair
+competition will suggest economy of a sounder kind--the facilitating
+of transport, the improvement of portages, and the saving of labour.
+Where are the evils which interested alarmists predicted would follow
+the modification of the East India Company's charter?
+
+I have spoken of restrictions to be imposed on those who engage in the
+trade. These are;--that no one be allowed to engage in it without
+a licence from Government;--that these licensed traders should be
+confined to a certain locality, beyond which they should not move, on
+any pretext;--and that no spirituous liquors should be sold or given
+to the Indians under the severest penalties--such as the forfeiture of
+the offender's licence, and of their right to participate in the trade
+in all time coming.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+    WESLEYAN MISSION--MR. EVANS--ENCOURAGEMENT GIVEN BY THE
+    COMPANY--MR. EVANS'S EXERTIONS AMONG THE INDIANS--CAUSES OF
+    THE WITHDRAWAL OF THE COMPANY'S SUPPORT--CALUMNIOUS CHARGES
+    AGAINST MR. EVANS--MR. E. GOES TO ENGLAND--HIS SUDDEN DEATH.
+
+
+Allusion has been made in a former chapter to the Company's
+encouragement of Missionaries; I shall now add a few facts by way of
+illustration.
+
+The Rev. Mr. Evans, a man no less remarkable for genuine piety than
+for energy and decision of character, had been present at several of
+the annual meetings of the Indians at Manitoulin Island, and had felt
+his sympathy deeply awakened by the sight of their degradation and
+spiritual destitution. While thus affected, he received an invitation
+from the American Episcopal Methodists to go as a Missionary among
+the Indians resident in the Union. Feeling, however, that his services
+were rather due to his fellow-subjects, he resolved to devote his
+labours and his life to the tribes residing in the Hudson's Bay
+territory. Having made known his intentions to this Canada Conference,
+he, together with Messrs. Thomas Hurlburt, and Peter Jacobs, was
+by them appointed a Missionary, and at their charges sent to that
+territory. No application was made to the Company, and neither
+encouragement nor support was expected from them. Mr. E. and his
+brother Missionaries began their operations by raising with their own
+hands, unassisted, a house at the Pic; themselves cutting and hauling
+the timber on the ice. They obtained, indeed, a temporary lodging at
+Fort Michipicoton, but they not only found their own provisions, but
+the comforts of the establishment were materially increased by Mr.
+E.'s and his interpreter's success in fishing and hunting. Late in the
+fall, accompanied by two Indian boys in a small canoe, Mr. E. made
+a voyage to Sault Ste. Marie for provisions: and on this expedition,
+rendered doubly hazardous by the lateness of the season, and the
+inexperience of his companions, he more than once narrowly escaped
+being lost.
+
+Returning next season to Canada for his family, he met Sir G.
+Simpson, on Lake Superior. Having learned that the Mission was already
+established, and likely to succeed, Sir George received him with
+the utmost urbanity, treating him not only with kindness but
+with distinction; he expressed the highest satisfaction at the
+establishment of the Mission, promised him his utmost support, and at
+length proposed that arrangement, which, however apparently auspicious
+for the infant Mission, was ultimately found to be very prejudicial to
+it.
+
+The caution of Mr. E. was completely lulled asleep by the apparent
+kindness of the Governor, and the hearty warmth with which he seemed
+to enter into his views. Sir George proposed that the Missionaries
+should hold the same rank and receive the same allowance as the
+wintering partners, or commissioned officers; and that canoes, or
+other means of conveyance, should be furnished to the Missionaries for
+their expeditions; nor did it seem unreasonable to stipulate that in
+return for these substantial benefits, they should say or do nothing
+prejudicial to the Company's interests either among the natives, or in
+their Reports to the Conference in England, to whose jurisdiction the
+Mission was transferred. The great evil of this arrangement was, that
+the Missionaries, from being the servants of God, accountable to Him
+alone, became the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, dependent
+on, and amenable to them; and the Committee were of course to be the
+sole judges of what was, or was not, prejudicial to their interests.
+Still, it is impossible to blame very severely either Mr. E. or
+the Conference for accepting offers apparently so advantageous, or
+even for consenting to certain restrictions in publishing their
+Reports:--with the assistance and co-operation of the Company great
+good might be effected;--with the hostility of a Corporation all but
+omnipotent within its own domain, and among the Indians, the post
+might not be tenable.
+
+For some time matters went on smoothly: by the indefatigable exertions
+of Mr. E. and his fellow-workers, aided also by Mrs. E., who devoted
+much of her time and labour to the instruction of the females, a great
+reformation was effected in the habits and morals of the Indians.
+But Mr. Evans soon perceived that without books printed in the Indian
+language, little permanent good would be realized: he therefore wrote
+to the London Conference to send him a printing press and types, with
+characters of a simple phonetic kind, which he himself had invented,
+and of which he gave them a copy. The press was procured without
+delay, but was detained in London by the Governor and Committee; and
+though they were again and again petitioned to forward it, they flatly
+refused. Mr. E., however, was not a man to be turned aside from his
+purpose. With his characteristic energy he set to work, and having
+invented an alphabet of a more simple kind, he with his penknife cut
+the types, and formed the letters from musket bullets; he constructed
+a rude sort of press; and aided by Mrs. E. as compositor, he at length
+succeeded in printing prayers, and hymns, and passages of Scripture
+for the use of the Indians. Finding their object in detaining the
+press thus baffled, the Governor and Committee deemed it expedient to
+forward it; but with the express stipulation, that every thing printed
+should be sent to the commander of the post as _censor_, before it
+was published among the Indians. This was among the first causes of
+distrust and dissatisfaction.
+
+Another source of dissatisfaction was Mr. E.'s faithfulness in
+regard to the observance of the sabbath. As the Indians became more
+enlightened they ceased to hunt and fish, and even to carry home game
+on the sabbath day; and, as a matter of course, they would no longer
+work for the Company on that day. But Mr. E. was guilty of equal
+faithfulness in remonstrating with those gentlemen in the service with
+whom he was on terms of intimacy in regard to this point of the Divine
+law; and several gentlemen, convinced by his arguments, determined to
+cease from working and travelling on the sabbath.
+
+One of them, Mr. C----l, while on a distant expedition, acted in
+accordance with his convictions, and rested on the sabbath. The voyage
+turned out unusually stormy, and the water in the rivers was low, so
+that it occupied several days longer than it had formerly done; and
+the loss of time, which was really owing to the adverse weather,
+was charged on his keeping of the sabbath. From that day forth,
+the encouragement given to the Missionaries began to be withdrawn;
+obstacles were thrown in their way, and although nothing was openly
+done to injure the Missions already in operation, it would seem
+that it was determined that, if the Company could prevent it, no new
+stations should be occupied--at least by _Protestant_ Missionaries.
+
+Not long after, Mr. E., finding that the Missions he had hitherto
+superintended were in such a state of progress that he might safely
+leave them to the care of his fellow-labourers, resolved to proceed
+to Athabasca and establish a mission there. Having gone, as usual, to
+the Commander of the post to obtain the necessary provisions, and a
+canoe and boatmen, he was received with unusual coldness. He asked
+provisions,--none could be given; he offered to purchase them,--the
+commander refused to sell him any. He begged a canoe,--it was denied
+him; and finally, when he intreated that, if he should be able to
+procure those necessaries elsewhere, he might at least be allowed a
+couple of men to assist him on the voyage, he was answered that none
+would be allowed to go on that service. Deeply grieved, but nothing
+daunted, Mr. E. procured those necessaries from private resources,
+and proceeded on his voyage. But a sad calamity put a stop to it; in
+handing his gun to the interpreter it accidentally went off, and the
+charge lodging in his breast killed him instantaneously. He was thus
+compelled to return, in a state of mind bordering on distraction.
+
+Mr. E.'s zeal and piety promised the best results to the spiritual
+and eternal interests of his Indian brethren. His talents, energy,
+and fertility of resource, which seemed to rise with every obstacle,
+had the happiest effects on their temporal well-being; and his mild
+and winning manners greatly endeared him to all the Indians. But his
+useful and honourable career was drawing to a close. The mournful
+accident already alluded to had affected his health, and he now
+received his deathblow.
+
+Yet, obnoxious as he had become to the Company, and formidable to
+their interests as they might deem one of his talents and indomitable
+resolution to be, the blow was not struck by them. It was dealt by
+a _false_ brother; by one who had eaten of his bread: by a "familiar
+friend, with whom he had taken sweet counsel." Charges affecting his
+character, both as a man and a minister, of the foulest and blackest
+kind, were transmitted to the Conference by a brother Missionary. To
+answer these charges, as false as they were foul, he was compelled
+to leave the churches he had planted and watered, to bid adieu to the
+people whose salvation had been for years the sole object of his life,
+and to undertake a voyage of 5,000 miles to appear before his brethren
+as a _criminal_. As a criminal, indeed, he was received; yet after
+an investigation, begun and carried on in no very friendly spirit to
+him, truth prevailed. He was declared innocent, and the right hand
+of fellowship was again extended to him. He made a short tour through
+England, and was everywhere received with respect, and affection, and
+sympathy.
+
+But anxiety, and grief, and shame had done their work. Scarce three
+weeks had elapsed, when, having spent the evening along with Mrs.
+E. in the family of a friend, whose guest he was, with some of his
+wonted cheerfulness, Mrs. E. having retired but a few minutes, she was
+summoned to the room where she had left him in time to see him pass
+into that land where "the wicked cease from troubling." The cause
+of his death was an _affection of the heart_. And that man--the
+slanderer--the murderer of this martyred Missionary--what punishment
+was inflicted on him? He is to this day unpunished! and yet lives
+in the Hudson's Bay territory, the disgrace and opprobrium of his
+profession and his church.
+
+Such are a few facts connected with the establishment of the Wesleyan
+Mission in the Hudson's Bay territory, and illustrative of the sort
+of encouragement given by the Committee to Protestant Missionaries.
+By way of rider to these, I may just remind the reader that Roman
+Catholic Missionaries have since been freely permitted to plant
+churches wherever they pleased, even in districts where Protestant
+Missions were already established.
+
+After all, this is not much to be wondered at, since Sir G.
+Simpson openly avowed to Mr. Evans his preference of Roman Catholic
+Missionaries; one reason for this preference being, that these never
+interfered with the Company's servants, nor troubled them with any
+precise or puritanical notions about the moral law.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.
+
+    RED RIVER--SOILS--CLIMATE--PRODUCTIONS--SETTLEMENT OF RED
+    RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS--COLLISION BETWEEN
+    THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY COMPANIES--INUNDATION--ITS
+    EFFECTS--FRENCH HALF-BREEDS--BUFFALO-HUNTING--ENGLISH
+    HALF-BREEDS--INDIANS--CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--STORES--MARKET FOR
+    PRODUCE--COMMUNICATION BY LAKES.
+
+
+Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in the distant plains of the
+south; and after receiving a number of tributary streams that serve to
+fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the world possesses,
+discharges itself into the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg in
+lat. 50°. The climate is much the same as in the midland districts of
+Canada; the river is generally frozen across about the beginning of
+November, and open about the beginning of April. The soil along the
+banks of the river is of the richest vegetable mould, and of so great
+a depth that crops of wheat are produced for several years without the
+application of manure. The banks produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the
+woods extend rather more than a mile inland. The farms of the first
+settlers are now nearly clear of wood; an open plain succeeds of from
+four to six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. Woods and
+plains alternate afterwards until you reach the boundless prairie.
+The woods produce a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the
+eye and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, plums,
+gooseberries, currants, grapes, and sasgatum berries in great
+abundance. Coal has been discovered in several places, and also salt
+springs.
+
+Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted with the natural advantages
+of this favoured country by his North-West hosts in Montreal,
+determined forthwith on adopting such measures as might ensure to
+himself and heirs the possession of it for ever. Accordingly, on his
+return to England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's stock to an
+amount that enabled him to control the decisions of the Committee;
+and thus, covered by the shield of the charter, he could carry on his
+premeditated schemes of aggression against the North-West Company,
+with some appearance of justice on his side.
+
+With the view of carrying out these schemes, he proceeded to the North
+of Scotland, and prevailed on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to Red
+River. To induce them to quit their native land, the most flattering
+prospects were held out to them; the moment they set their foot in
+this land of promise, the hardships and privations to which they had
+hitherto been subject, would disappear; the poor man would exchange
+his "potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman would become a
+ruler and a judge in--Assineboine! Who could doubt the fulfilment
+of the promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, soon
+collected the required number of emigrants--for the Highlander of the
+present day gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a country that
+no longer affords him bread.
+
+At the period in question, Red River district furnished the principal
+part of the provisions required by the North-West Company, and was a
+wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, and abounding in the
+larger animals--elk and rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the
+plains.
+
+As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which discharges itself by
+Neilson's river into Hudson's Bay, and could therefore be included
+within the territory granted by the charter, our noble trader
+concluded that, by taking formal possession of the country, he would
+obtain the right of expelling other adventurers, merely by warning
+them off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning were
+disregarded, he could claim the aid of Government to enforce his
+rights, and thus ruin the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's
+Governor was therefore instructed to issue a proclamation, prohibiting
+the North-West Company by name, and all others, from carrying on
+any species of trade within Red River district, and ordering such
+establishments as had been formed to be abandoned.
+
+The North-Westers read the proclamation, and--prosecuted their
+business as before. In such circumstances quarrels were unavoidable,
+but they were generally settled with _ink_; a collision ultimately
+took place that led to the shedding of blood. The North-Westers had
+collected a large supply of provisions at their dépôt, and were
+about to forward it to the place of embarkation, when they were
+informed--falsely, as it afterwards appeared,--that the Governor
+intended to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, equally false,
+was brought to the Governor, that the North-Westers had assembled a
+strong force of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying rumours
+led to an unhappy catastrophe.
+
+The Governor sent out scouts to watch the North-West party;
+and ascertaining that they were on their march with an unusual
+force,--which they had brought in order to repel the attack which they
+supposed was to be made upon them,--he seized his arms, and marched
+with his whole party to meet them. The North-Westers seeing them
+approach, halted, and standing to their arms, sent forward one of
+their number to demand whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace
+or war.
+
+During the interview a shot was fired--it is a matter in dispute to
+this day who fired it--the half-breeds immediately poured a volley
+into the ranks of their opponents, and brought down nearly all the
+gentlemen of the party, including the unfortunate Governor; the
+remainder fled to the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe
+entered together. Thus the poor settlers found themselves suddenly
+surrounded by all the horrors of war; their anticipated paradise
+converted into a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; their
+little property pillaged, and their persons in the power of their
+enemies.
+
+An arrangement, however, was entered into by the rival Companies,
+that allowed the emigrants to take possession of the lands allotted
+to them, and in the course of a few years their labour had made a
+sensible impression on the forest. Cattle were sent out from England;
+pigs and poultry followed, and honest Donald was beginning to find
+himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams of future wealth and
+happiness vanished in a moment. Red River overflowed its banks,
+and inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary flood caused
+immense loss; it overthrew houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly
+ruined the crops of the season. The buffaloes, however, proved
+abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions enough to prevent
+starvation, and the settlers soon recovered from the effects of this
+misfortune. Another calamity followed--the caterpillar appeared--at
+first in small numbers, afterwards in myriads, covering the whole
+land, and eating up "every green thing," and thus the crops were
+destroyed a second time; but the consequences were not so severely
+felt as formerly; the preceding season had proved extremely abundant,
+and a sufficient quantity remained to supply the failure of this year.
+Since that time the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed
+peace; industry has its sure reward in the abundance of all the
+necessaries of life which it procures.
+
+Since the coalition took place, Red River has become the favourite
+retreat of the Company's servants, especially of those who have
+families; here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. A lot of
+one mile in length and six chains in breadth, costs only 18l.; and
+they find themselves surrounded by people of congenial habits with
+themselves, the companions of their youth, and fellow-adventurers;
+those with whom they tugged at the oar, and shared the toil of the
+winter march; and when they meet together to smoke the social pipe,
+and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor prince nor prelate" can
+enjoy more happiness.
+
+The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population at 5,000 souls; it
+may now (1845) amount to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion
+is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps 300 souls. The Scotch
+carried with them the frugal and industrious habits of their country;
+the same qualities characterise their children, who are far in advance
+of their neighbours in all that constitutes the comforts of life.
+These advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, to their
+own good management; yet, notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding
+that they are a quiet and a moral people, they are objects of envy and
+hatred to their hybrid neighbours; and thus my industrious and worthy
+countrymen, in the possession of almost every other blessing which
+they could desire, are still unhappy from the malice and ill-will they
+meet with on every side; and being so inferior in numbers, they must
+submit to the insults and abuse they are daily exposed to, while the
+blood boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, many of them
+have abandoned the settlement and gone to the United States, where
+they enjoy the fruits of their industry in peace.
+
+The French half-breeds and retired Canadian voyageurs occupy the upper
+part of the settlement. The half-breeds are strongly attached to the
+roving life of the hunter; the greater part of them depend entirely on
+the chase for a living, and even the few who attend to farming take a
+trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and marrow fat. They sow
+their little patches of ground early in spring, and then set out for
+the chase, taking wives and children along with them, and leaving only
+the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops.
+
+When they set out for the plains, they observe all the order and
+regularity of a military march; officers being chosen for the
+enforcement of discipline, who are subject to the orders of a chief,
+whom they style "M. le Commandant." They take their departure from the
+settlement about the latter end of June, to the number of from 1,200
+to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at least six carts, and some
+twelve; the whole number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his riding
+nag and cart horses, he has also at least one buffalo runner, which he
+never mounts until he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" is
+tended with all the care which the cavalier of old bestowed on his
+war steed; his housing and trappings are garnished with beads and
+porcupine quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's wife or
+belle can exercise; while head and tail display all the colours of the
+rainbow in the variety of ribbon attached to them.
+
+The "Commandant" directs the movements of the whole cavalcade: at a
+signal given in the morning by sound of trumpet--_alias_, by blowing
+a horn,--the hunters start together for their horses; while the women
+and servants strike the tents, and pack up and load the baggage. The
+horses being all collected, a second blast forms the order of march;
+the carts fall in, four abreast; the hunters mount; and dividing into
+their different bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes
+the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The third blast is
+the signal for marching. They halt about two hours at noon, for the
+purpose of allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same order is
+observed as in starting in the morning. When they encamp at night,
+the carts are placed in a circle; and the tents are pitched within
+the enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the horses are
+"hobbled" and turned loose to graze.
+
+All the arrangements for the night being completed, guards are
+appointed to watch over the safety of the camp, who are relieved
+at fixed hours. In this manner they proceed until they approach the
+buffalo grounds, when scouts are sent out to ascertain the spot where
+the herd may be found. The joyful discovery being made, the scouts
+apprise the main body by galloping backwards and forwards, when a halt
+is immediately ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters mount their
+runners; and the whole being formed into an extended line, with the
+utmost regularity, they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul
+advances an inch in front of the line, until within gun-shot of the
+herd, when they rein up for a moment. The whole body then, as if with
+one voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd at full gallop;
+each hunter, singling out an animal, pursues it until he finds an
+opportunity of taking sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some
+article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards recognised. The
+hunter immediately sets off in chase of another, priming, loading, and
+taking aim at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently secures
+ten buffaloes at a "course;" from four to eight is the usual number.
+He who draws the first blood claims the animal, and each individual
+hunter is allowed whatever he kills.
+
+The moment the firing commences, the women set out with the carts, and
+cut up and convey the meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of
+bones and fat. Two or three days are required for the operation, when
+they set out again; and the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient
+quantity to load all the carts, each carrying about one thousand
+pounds,--an enormous quantity in the aggregate; yet the herd is
+sometimes so numerous that all this slaughter does not seem to
+diminish it.
+
+The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, and some of the
+dangers, of the battle-field. The horses are often gored by the
+infuriated bulls, to the great peril--sometimes to the loss--of the
+rider's life; serious accidents too happen from falls. There are no
+better horsemen in the world than the Red River "brulés;" and so long
+as the horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. The falls
+are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes the badger digs all over the
+prairies; if the horse plunges into one of these, both horse and man
+roll on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally happen from
+gun shots in the _melée_; and it is said, I know not with what truth,
+that a wronged husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails
+himself of the opportunity presented by the _melée_ to miss the
+buffalo, and hit a friend--by _accident_.
+
+A priest generally accompanies the camp, and mass is celebrated with
+becoming solemnity on Sundays. The "brulés" attend, looking very
+serious and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when the cry of
+"La vache! la vache!" scatters the congregation in an instant; away
+they scamper, old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the
+winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. Two trips in the year
+are generally made to the prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo
+hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage than of the
+civilized man; it is a life of alternate plenty and want--a life
+also of danger and inquietude. The Indians of the plain view the
+encroachment of the strange race on their hunting grounds, with
+feelings of jealousy and enmity. They are, accordingly, continually on
+the alert; they attack detached parties and stragglers; they also set
+fire to the prairies about the time the "brulés" set out for the hunt,
+and by this means drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to this
+circumstance, the "brulés" have returned with empty carts for these
+two years past; and their only resource has been to betake themselves
+to the woods, and live after the manner of the Indians. Could they
+find a sure market for the produce of the soil, so as to remunerate
+their labour, there can be little doubt but that they might be
+gradually detached from the half-savage life they lead, and become as
+steady and industrious as their neighbours.
+
+The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny of the British are
+designated, possess many of the characteristics of their fathers; they
+generally prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to the chase,
+and follow close on the heels of the Scotch in the path of industry
+and moral rectitude. Very few of them resort to the plains, unless for
+the purpose of trafficking the produce of their farms for the produce
+of the chase; and it is said that they frequently return home better
+supplied with meat than the hunters themselves.
+
+The Indians who have been converted to the Protestant religion, are
+settled around their respected pastor at the lower extremity of
+the settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth of the river. The
+Sauteux, of all other tribes, are the most tenacious of their own
+superstitions; and it would require all the zeal and patience and
+perseverance of the primitive teachers of Christianity to wean them
+from them. But when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert is
+the more steadfast in his faith; and his steadfastness and sincerity
+prove an ample reward to his spiritual father for his pains and
+anxiety on his behalf.
+
+The Indian converts are entirely guided by their Missionary in
+temporal as well as in spiritual things. When he first came among
+them, he found their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that
+something more than advice was necessary to produce the desired
+change. Like Oberlin, therefore, he set before them the example of a
+laborious and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, he planted, he
+reaped with his own hands, and afterwards shared his produce with
+them. By persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining them
+to his views; and, at the present moment, their settlement is in as
+forward a state of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements.
+
+They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; their horses,
+and cattle, and well-cultivated fields:--a happy change! A few years
+ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond race; "hewers of
+wood and drawers of water" for the other settlers, as their pagan
+brethren still are; they wandered about from house to house,
+half-starved, and half-naked; and even in this state of abject misery,
+preferring a glass of "fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves
+or their children.
+
+There are at present three ministers of the episcopal communion at Red
+River. The Scotch inhabitants attend the church regularly, although
+they sigh after the form of worship to which they had been accustomed
+in early youth; they, however, assemble afterwards in their own houses
+to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the manner of their
+fathers. There are also three Roman Catholic clergymen, including
+a bishop;--good, exemplary men, whose "constant care" is not "to
+increase their store," but to guide and direct their flocks in the
+paths of piety and virtue. But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people
+to deal with;--the French half-breed, who follows the hunter's life,
+possesses all the worst vices of his European and Indian progenitors,
+and is indifferent alike to the laws of God and man. There are,
+in all, seven places of worship, three Roman Catholic, and four
+Protestant, including two for the Indians.
+
+The education of the more respectable families, particularly those
+of the Company's officers, is well provided for at an institution
+of great merit; the gentleman who presides over it being every
+way qualified for the important trust. The different branches of
+mathematical and classical learning are taught in it; and the school
+has already produced some excellent scholars. In addition to the more
+useful branches of female education, the young ladies are taught music
+and drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. Thus we have,
+in the midst of this remote wilderness of the North-West, all the
+elements of civilized life; and there are there many young persons of
+both sexes, well educated and accomplished, who have never seen the
+civilized world. There are also thirteen schools for the children of
+the lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves.
+
+The Company have here two shops (or stores), well supplied with every
+description of goods the inhabitants can require; there are besides
+several merchants scattered through the settlement, some of whom are
+said to be in easy circumstances. The Company's bills constitute the
+circulating medium, and are issued for the value of from one to twenty
+shillings. Of late years, a considerable amount of American specie
+has found its way into the settlement, probably in exchange for furs
+clandestinely disposed of by the merchants beyond the line. The petty
+merchants import their goods from England by the Company's ships; an
+_ad valorem_ duty is imposed on these goods, the proceeds of which are
+applied to the payment of the constabulary force of the colony. The
+Company's charter invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive
+and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor and Council enact such
+simple statutes as the primitive condition of the settlement requires;
+and those enactments have hitherto proved equal to the maintenance
+of good order. A court of quarter sessions is regularly held for the
+administration of justice, and the Company have lately appointed a
+Recorder to preside over it. It is gratifying to learn, that this
+functionary has had occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious
+crime since his appointment.
+
+In the work to which I have so frequently referred, it is mentioned,
+that a "certain market is secured to the inhabitants by the demand
+for provisions for the other settlements." If by "settlements" the
+miserable trading posts be meant, as it must be, I know not on what
+grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure market, forsooth! A single
+Scotch farmer could be found in the colony, able alone to supply the
+greater part of the produce the Company require; there is one, in
+fact, who offered to do it. If a sure market were secured to the
+colonists of Red River, they would speedily become the wealthiest
+yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries are always full to
+overflowing; so abundant are the crops, that many of the farmers could
+subsist for a period of two or even three years, without putting a
+grain of seed in the ground. The Company purchase from six to eight
+bushels of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three shillings per
+bushel; and the sum total of their yearly purchases from the whole
+settlement amounts to--
+
+  600 cwt. flour, first and second quality.
+  35 bushels rough barley.
+  10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each.
+  10 bushels Indian corn.
+  200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour.
+  60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each.
+  240 lbs. cheese.
+  60 hams.
+
+Thus it happens that the Red River farmer finds a "sure market" for
+six or eight bushels of wheat--and no more. Where he finds a sure
+market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven only knows--I do not.
+This much, however, I do know,--that the incomparable advantages this
+delightful country possesses are not only in a great measure lost to
+the inhabitants, but also to the world, so long as it remains under
+the domination of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession of, and
+subject to the immediate jurisdiction of the Crown, Assineboine would
+become a great and a flourishing colony--the centre of civilization
+and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, who would be converted
+from hostile barbarians into a civilized and loyal people;--and thus
+Great Britain would extend and establish her dominion in a portion
+of her empire that may be said to have been hitherto unknown to her,
+while she would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of
+her sons.
+
+In describing the advantages of this country, candour requires that I
+should also point out its disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the
+difficulty of the communication with the sea, interrupted as it is by
+shoals, rapids, and falls, which in their present state can only be
+surmounted with incredible toil and labour. Yet there cannot be a
+doubt that the skill of the engineer could effect such improvements as
+would obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, and that at
+no very great cost. The distance from the mouth of Red River to York
+Factory is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is formed of
+lakes--(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in length, is navigable for vessels
+of forty and fifty tons burden). The greater part of the river
+communication might be rendered passable by Durham boats, merely
+by damming up the rivers. Along the line of communication, many
+situations may be found suitable for farming operations.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+    SIR G. SIMPSON--HIS ADMINISTRATION.
+
+
+Sir George Simpson commenced his career as a clerk in a respectable
+counting-house in London, where his talents soon advanced him to the
+first seat at the desk. He was in this situation when first introduced
+to the notice of a member of the Committee of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, who were at that time engaged in the ruinous competition with
+the North-West Company already referred to. While the contest was
+at its height, the Company sent out Mr. Simpson as Governor of the
+Northern department;--an appointment for which, by his abilities
+natural and acquired, he was well qualified. Mr. Simpson combined with
+the prepossessing manners of a gentleman all the craft and subtlety of
+an intriguing courtier; while his cold and callous heart was incapable
+of sympathising with the woes and pains of his fellow-men. On his
+first arrival, he carefully concealed from those whom he was about
+to supersede, the powers with which he was invested; he studied
+the characters of individuals, scrutinized in secret their mode of
+managing affairs, and when he had made himself fully acquainted with
+every particular he desired to know, he produced his commission;--a
+circumstance that proved as unexpected as it was unsatisfactory to
+those whose interests it affected.
+
+Making every allowance for Sir George's abilities, he is evidently
+one of those men whom the blind goddess "delighteth to honour." Soon
+after assuming the supreme command, the North-West wintering partners
+undertook the mission to England, already mentioned, which led to
+the coalition; and thus Sir George found himself, by a concurrence of
+circumstances quite independent of his merits, placed at the head of
+both parties; from being Governor of Rupert's Land his jurisdiction
+now included the whole of the Indian territory from Hudson's Bay to
+the shores of the Pacific Ocean; and the Southern department, at that
+time a separate command, was soon after added to his government. Here,
+then, was a field worthy of his talents; and that he did every manner
+of justice to it, no one can deny. Yet he owes much of his success
+to the valuable assistance rendered him by Mr. McTavish; at his
+suggestion, the whole business was re-organized, a thousand abuses
+in the management of affairs were reformed, and a strict system
+of economy was introduced where formerly boundless extravagance
+prevailed. To effect these salutary measures, however, much tact
+was required: and here Sir George's abilities shone conspicuous.
+The long-continued strife between the two companies had engendered
+feelings of envy and animosity, which could not subside in a day; and
+the steps that had been taken to bring about the coalition, created
+much ill-will even among the North-West partners themselves. Nor were
+the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company without their dissensions
+also. To harmonize these elements of discord, to reconcile the
+different parties thus brought so suddenly and unexpectedly together
+into one fold, was a task of the utmost difficulty to accomplish; but
+Sir George was equal to it. He soon discovered that the North-West
+partners possessed both the will and the ability to thwart and defeat
+such of his plans as were not satisfactory to themselves; that
+they were by far the most numerous in the Council--at that time
+an independent body--and the best acquainted with the trade of the
+Northern department, the most important in the territory; and finding,
+after some experience, that while those gentlemen continued united,
+their power was beyond his control, and that to resist them openly
+would only bring ruin on himself, without any benefit to the concern,
+he prudently gave way to their influence; and instead of forcing
+himself against the stream, allowed himself apparently to be carried
+along with it.
+
+For a time, he seemed to promote all the views of his late
+adversaries; he yielded a ready and gracious acquiescence in their
+wishes; he lavished his bows, and smiles, and honied words on them
+all; and played his part so well, that the North-Westers thought they
+had actually gained him over to their own side; while the gentlemen of
+the Hudson's Bay Company branded him as a traitor, who had abandoned
+his own party and gone over to the enemy.
+
+The Committee received several hints of the Governor's "strange
+management," but they only smiled at the insinuations, as they
+perfectly understood the policy. His well-digested schemes had, in due
+time, all the success he anticipated.
+
+Having thus completely gained the confidence of the North-West
+partners, his policy began gradually to unfold itself. One
+obstreperous North-Wester was sent to the Columbia; another to the
+Montreal department, where "their able services could not be dispensed
+with;" and thus in the course of a few years he got rid of all those
+refractory spirits who dared to tell him their minds.
+
+The North-West nonconformists being in this manner disposed of, Sir
+George deemed it no longer necessary to wear the mask. His old friends
+of the Hudson's Bay, or "sky-blue" party, were gradually received into
+favour; his power daily gained the ascendant, and at this moment Sir
+George Simpson's rule is more absolute than that of any governor under
+the British crown, as his influence with the Committee enables him to
+carry into effect any measure he may recommend. That one possessed
+of an authority so unbounded should often abuse his power is not to
+be wondered at; and that the abuse of power thus tolerated should
+degenerate into tyranny is but the natural consequence of human
+weakness and depravity. The question is--Is it consistent with
+prudence to allow an _individual_ to assume and retain such power?
+Most of the Company's officers enter the service while yet very young;
+none are so young, however, as not to be aware of the privileges to
+which they are entitled as British subjects, and that they have a
+right to enjoy those privileges while they tread on British soil.
+The oft repeated acts of tyranny of which the autocrat of "all Prince
+Rupert's Land and its dependencies" has lately been guilty, have
+accordingly created a feeling of discontent which, if it could be
+freely expressed, would be heard from the shores of the Pacific to
+Labrador.
+
+Unfortunately, the Company's servants are so situated, that they dare
+not express their sentiments freely. The clerk knows that if he is
+heard to utter a word of disapprobation, it is carried to the ears of
+his sovereign lord, and his prospects of advancement are marred for
+ever; he therefore submits to his grievances in silence. The chief
+trader has probably a large family to support, has been thirty or
+forty years in the service, and is daily looking forward to the other
+step: he too is silent. The chief factor has a situation of importance
+in which his vanity is gratified and his comfort secured; to
+express his opinion freely might risk the sacrifice of some of these
+advantages; so he also swallows the pill without daring to complain of
+its bitterness, and is silent.
+
+A very valuable piece of plate was, some years ago, presented to
+Sir George by the commissioned gentlemen in the service, as a mark
+of respect and esteem; and this circumstance may be adduced by Sir
+George's friends, with every appearance of reason, as a proof of his
+popularity; but the matter is easily explained. Some two or three
+persons who share Sir George's favour, determine among themselves
+to present him with some token of their gratitude. They address a
+circular on the subject to all the Company's officers, well knowing
+that none dare refuse in the face of the whole country to subscribe
+their name. The same cogent reasons that suppress the utterance of
+discontent compelled the Company's servants to subscribe to this
+testimonial; and the subscription list accordingly exhibits, with few
+exceptions, the names of every commissioned gentleman in the service;
+while two-thirds of them would much rather have withheld their
+signatures.
+
+Sir George owes his ribbon to the successful issue of the Arctic
+expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson. His share of the
+merit consisted in drawing out instructions for those gentlemen,
+which occupied about half-an-hour of his time at the desk. It is
+quite certain that the expedition owed none of its success to those
+instructions. The chief of the party, Mr. Dease, was at least as well
+qualified to give as to receive instructions; and Sir George is well
+aware of the fact. He knows, too, that Mr. Dease was engaged in
+the Arctic expedition under Sir J. Franklin, where he acquired that
+experience which brought this important yet hazardous undertaking to
+a successful issue; he knows also that in an enterprise of this kind
+a thousand contingencies may arise, which must be left entirely to the
+judgment of those engaged in it to provide against.
+
+Sir George, nevertheless, obtained the chief honours; but the bauble
+perishes with him; while the courage, the energy and the perseverance
+of Mr. Dease and his colleague will ever be a subject of admiration to
+those who peruse the narrative of their adventures.
+
+Sir George's administration, it is granted, has been a successful
+one; yet his own friends will admit that much of this success must
+be ascribed to his good fortune rather than to his talents. The
+North-West Company had previously reduced the business to a perfect
+system, which he had only to follow. It is true he introduced great
+economy into every department; but the North-West Company had done
+so before him, and the wasteful extravagance which preceded his
+appointment was entirely the result of the rivalry between the two
+companies, and under any governor whatever would have ceased when the
+coalition was effected.
+
+Not a little, too, of Sir George's economy was of "the penny-wise and
+pound-foolish" kind. Thus it has been already observed, that the lives
+of the Company's servants, and the property of an entire district,
+were placed in extreme jeopardy by his false economy; and a
+contingency, which no prudent man would have calculated upon,
+alone prevented a catastrophe which involved the destruction of the
+Company's property to a large amount, as well as of the lives of its
+servants. But independently of this, he has committed several errors
+of a most serious kind. Of these the chief is the Ungava adventure,
+an enterprise which was begun in opposition to the opinion of every
+gentleman in the country whose experience enabled him to form a
+correct judgment in the matter; and this undertaking was persisted in,
+year after year, at an enormous loss to the Company. Finally, he has
+not even the merit of correcting his own blunders. It was not till
+after a mass of evidence of the strongest kind was laid before the
+Committee, that they, in his absence, gave orders for the abandonment
+of the hopeless project.
+
+His caprice, his favouritism, his disregard of merit in granting
+promotion, it will be allowed, could not have a favourable effect on
+the Company's interests. His want of feeling has been mentioned: a
+single example of this will close these remarks. A gentleman of high
+rank in the service, whose wife was dangerously ill, received orders
+to proceed on a journey of nearly 5,000 miles. Aware that his duty
+required a prompt obedience to these orders, he set off, taking her
+along with him. On arriving at the end of the first stage, she became
+worse; and medical assistance being procured, the physicians were of
+opinion that in all probability death would be the consequence if he
+continued his journey. A certificate to this effect was forwarded to
+Sir George. The answer was, that Madame's health must not interfere
+with the Company's service; and that he must continue his journey, or
+abide the consequences.
+
+In consequence of this delay, he only reached Montreal on the day when
+the boats were to leave Lachine for the interior. He hurried to the
+office, where he met Sir George, and was received by him with the cool
+remark--
+
+"You are late, Sir; but if you use expedition you may yet be in time
+for the boats."
+
+He earnestly begged for some delay, but in vain. No regard was paid to
+his entreaties; and he was obliged to hurry his wife off to Lachine,
+and put her on board a common canoe, where there is no accommodation
+for a sick person, and where no assistance could be procured, even in
+the last extremity.
+
+
+
+
+VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS IN USE AMONG THE TRIBES IN
+THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
+
+
+ -------------------------------------------------------------------------
+ |           | SAUTEU, or    |             | BEAVER       |              |
+ | ENGLISH.  |  OGIBOIS.     | CREE.       | INDIAN.      | CHIPPEWAYAN. |
+ |-----------|---------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|
+ | One       | Pejik         | Pay ak      | It la day    | Ittla h[=e]  |
+ | Two       | Neesh         | Neesho      | Onk shay day | Nank hay     |
+ | Three     | Nisway        | Nisto       | Ta day       | Ta he        |
+ | Four      | Neowin        | Neo         | Dini day     | Dunk he      |
+ | Five      | N[=a] nan     | Nay n[=a]   | Tlat zoon e  | Sa soot      |
+ |           |               |   nan       |   de ay      |   la he      |
+ | Six       | Ni got as way | Nigotwassik | Int zud ha   | L'goot ha hé |
+ | Seven     | Nish was      | Tay pa      | Ta e wayt    | Tluz ud      |
+ |           |   way         |   goop      |   zay        |   dunk he    |
+ | Eight     | Shwas way     | Ea naneo    | Etzud een    | L'goot dung  |
+ |           |               |             |   tay        |   he         |
+ | Nine      | Sang          | Kay gat me  | Kala gay ne  | Itla ud ha   |
+ |           |               |   t[=a] tat |   ad ay      |              |
+ | Ten       | Quaitch       | Me ta tat   | Kay nay day  | Hona         |
+ | Eleven    | Aji pay jik   | Payak ai    | Tlad ay      | Itla, ja     |
+ |           |               |   wak       |   may day    |   idel       |
+ | Twelve    | Aji neesh     | Neesh way   | Ong shay day | Nank hay,    |
+ |           |               |   ai wok    |   may day    |   ja idel    |
+ | Twenty    | Neej ta na    | Neesh       | Ong ka gay   | Ta he, ja    |
+ |           |               |   tan ao    |   nay day    |   idel       |
+ | Thirty    | Nisway        | Neo         | Tao gay      |              |
+ |           |   mittana     |   meatanao  |   nay day    |              |
+ | Forty     | Neo mittana   | &c.         | Deo gay      |              |
+ |           |               |             |   nay day    |              |
+ | Fifty     | Nanan mittana | &c.         |              |              |
+ | Sixty     | Nigot asway   |             |              |              |
+ |           |   mittana     |             |              |              |
+ | Seventy   | Nish was way  |             |              |              |
+ |           |   mittana     |             |              |              |
+ | Eighty    | Shwas way     |             |              |              |
+ |           |   mittana     |             |              |              |
+ | Ninety    | Sang mittana  |             |              |              |
+ | One       | Ni goot wack  | Me ta tin   | Kay nay tay  | Itla honan   |
+ |   hundred |               |   mittanao  |              |   nanana.    |
+ | How often | Anin. tas     | Tan mat     | Tan ay tien  | Itla hon     |
+ |           |   ink         |   ta to     |              |   eeltay.    |
+ | How many  | Anin ain      | Tan ay      | Tan ay       | Itla elday.  |
+ |           |   tas ink     |   ta tik    |   tien       |              |
+ | How long  | Anapé apin    | Ta ispi     | A shay       | Itla hon     |
+ |   since   |   aijo        |   aspin     |   doo yay    |   il tao.    |
+ | When      | Anapé         | Ta is pi    | Dee ad       | Itlao.       |
+ |           |               |             |   doo yay    |              |
+ | To-day    | Nongum        | Anootch kee | Doo jay      | Deerd sin    |
+ |           |   kajigack    |   je gak    |   nee ay     |   o gay.     |
+ | To-morrow | Wabunk        | Wa bakay    | Ghad ay zay  | Campay.      |
+ | Yesterday | Chen[=a]ngo   | Ta goosh    | Ghagh ganno  | Hozud        |
+ |           |               |   ick       |              |   singay.    |
+ | This year | Nongum egee   | Anootch     | Doo la       | Do uz sin e  |
+ |           |   wang        |   egee      |              |   gay.       |
+ |           |               |   kee wang  |              |              |
+ | This      | Wà á.         | Awa pee     | Teeay tee    | Dirius       |
+ |   month   |   Ke[=e]sis   |   shum      |   za         |   a gay.     |
+ | A man     | Ininé         | N[=a] bay o | Taz eu       | Dinnay you.  |
+ | A woman   | Ikway         | Isk way o   | Iay quay     | Tzay quay.   |
+ | A girl    | Ikway says    | Isk way     | Id az oo     | Ed dinna     |
+ |           |               |   shish     |              |   gay.       |
+ | A boy     | Quee we says  | Na bay      | Taz yuz é    | Dinnay yoo   |
+ |           |               |   shish     |              |   azay.      |
+ | Inter-    | Oten way ta   | On tway ta  | Nao day ay   | Dinnay tee   |
+ |   preter  |   ma gay      |   ma gay o  |              |   ghaltay.   |
+ | Trader    | Ata way       | Ataway      | Meeoo tay    | Ma kad ray.  |
+ |           |   ini niu     |   ininiu    |              |              |
+ | Moose-    | Moze          | Mozwa       | Tlay tchin   | Tunnehee     |
+ |   Deer    |               |             |   tay        |   hee.       |
+ | Rein-Deer | Attick        | Attick      | May tzee     | Ed hun.      |
+ | Beaver    | Amick         | Amisk       | Tza          | Tza.         |
+ | Dog       | Ani moosh     | Attim       | Tlee         | Tlee.        |
+ | Rabbit    | Waboose       | Waboose     | Kagh         | Kagh.        |
+ | Bear      | Maqua         | Masqua      | Zus          | Zus.         |
+ | Wolf      | Ma ing an     | Mahigan     | Tshee o nay  | Noo nee yay. |
+ | Fox       | Wa goosh      | Ma kay      | E. yay thay  | Nag hee      |
+ |           |               |   shish     |              |   dthay.     |
+ | I hunt    | Ni ge oz      | Ni m[=a]    | Na o zed     | Naz uz ay.   |
+ |           |   ay          |   tchin     |              |              |
+ | Thou      | Ki ge oz      | Ki ma tchin | Nodzed       | Nan ul zay.  |
+ |   huntest |   ay          |             |              |              |
+ | He hunts  | Ge oz ay      | Ma tchio    | Nazin zed    | Nal zay.     |
+ | We hunt   | Ni ge oz      | Ni ma       | Naze zedeo   | Na il zay.   |
+ |           |   ay min      |   tchinan   |              |              |
+ | Ye hunt   | Ki ge         | Ki ma       | Nazin zedeo  | Nal zin      |
+ |           |   oz aim      |   tchinawao |              |   al day.    |
+ | They hunt | Ge oz ay      | Matchiwog   | Owadié tzed  | Na hal zay.  |
+ |           |   wok         |             |              |              |
+ | I kill    | Ni ne ta      | Ni mi na    | Uz éay gha   | Zil tir.     |
+ |           |   gay         |   hon       |              |              |
+ | Thou      | Ki ne ta      | Ki mi na    | Uz éay ghan  | Zil nil tir. |
+ |   killest |   gay         |   hon       |              |              |
+ | He kills  | Ne ta gay     | Minaho      | Ud zeay gha  | Tla in il    |
+ |           |               |             |              |   tir.       |
+ | We kill   | Ni ne ta      | Ni mina     | Uz ugho-ghay | Tla in il    |
+ |           |   gay min     |   honan     |   uzin       |   dir.       |
+ | Ye kill   | Ki ne ta      | Kim in a    | Uz ugho ghay | Zee ool dir. |
+ |           |   gaim        |   honawa    |   uzin       |              |
+ | They kill | Ne ta         | Minahowog   | Utza ghay    | Tla in       |
+ |           |   gay wok     |             |   agho       |   il tay.    |
+ | I laugh   | Ni baap       | Ni baap in  | Utzay rad    | Naz-lo.      |
+ |           |               |             |   lotsh      |              |
+ | Thou      | Ki baap       | Ki baap in  | Utlint lotsh | Na-id-lo.    |
+ |  laughest |               |             |              |              |
+ | He laughs | Baapé         | Baapio      | Utroz lotsh  | Nad-lo.      |
+ | We laugh  | Ni baap       | Ni baap     | Utlo wod     | Tlo          |
+ |           |   imin        |   in an     |   lotshay    |  a-ee-el-tee.|
+ | Ye laugh  | Ki baapim     | Ki baapin   | Tlodzud      | Tlo gha      |
+ |           |               |   a wao     |   udzee      |   ee-ol-tee. |
+ | They      | Baap ewog     | Baapiwog    | Tlodzud      | Tlo-gha-     |
+ |   laugh   |               |             |   udzee      |   ee-el-tee. |
+ | I trade   | Ni da ta      | Ni da d[=a] | Mata oz lay  | Naz nee.     |
+ |           |   way         |   wan       |              |              |
+ | Thou      | Ki da ta      | Ki da d[=a] | Mata an      | Na el nee.   |
+ |   tradest |   way         |   wan       |   eelay      |              |
+ | He trades | Ataway        | Atawayo     | Kita od      | Na el nee.   |
+ |           |               |             |   eenla      |              |
+ | We trade  | Ni da ta      | Nin da t[=a]| Mata ad oz   | Na-da-ell    |
+ |           |   way min     |   wan an    |   id la      |   nee.       |
+ | Ye trade  | Ki da ta      | Ki da t[=a] | Mata a la    | Na ool nee.  |
+ |           |   way min     |   wan o wa  |   ozayo      |              |
+ | They trade| A ta way      | Ata way wok | Ma t[=a] a   | Eghon a el   |
+ |           |   wok         |             |   leeay la   |   nee.       |
+ | I fight   | Ni me gaz     | Ni no ti    | Magad ay a   | Din[=i] gun  |
+ |           |               |   ni gan    |              |   as tir.    |
+ | Thou      | Ki me gaz     | Ki no ti    | Magad osee   | Dini gun a   |
+ |  fightest |               |   ni gan    |   ya la      |   ee dthir   |
+ | He fights | Mi gazo       | No ti ni    |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |               |   gay o     |              |              |
+ | We fight  | Ni me         | Nino ti ni  |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |   gazomin     |   g[=a]n an |              |              |
+ | Ye fight  | Ki me gazom   | Ki no ti ni |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |               |   gan a wao |              |              |
+ | They      | Mi guz        | Notini gay  |  --          |  --          |
+ |   fight   |   o wog       |   wok       |              |              |
+ | I set     | Ni bug-é      | Ni bug-e    | Zoo meet la  | Tloo e       |
+ |   a net   |   ta wa       |     ta wan  |   uz loo     |   kanistan.  |
+ | Thou      | Ki bug-e      | Ki bug-e    | Too meet     | Tloo é kan   |
+ |   settest |   ta wa       |   ta wan    |   lan itlo   |   e than.    |
+ |   a net   |               |             |              |              |
+ | He sets   | Bug-e ta wa   | Bug-e ta    | Ta eet loon  | Tloo e kan   |
+ |   a net   |               |   wao       |              |   ethan loay.|
+ | We set    | Ni bug-e ta   | Ni bug-e ta | Ta ghoo loo  | Tloo e kan   |
+ |   a net   |   wa min      |   w[=a]nan  |   hoon       |   oodthan.   |
+ | Ye set    | Ni bug-é      | Ki bug-e    | Ta ghoo loo  | Tloo e kan   |
+ |   a net   |   ta wam      |   ta-wan a  |   uz éo      |   eehtan.    |
+ |           |               |   wao       |              |              |
+ | They set  | Bug-e ta      | Bug-e-ta-wa | Too milt at  |  --          |
+ |   a net   |   w[=a] wog   |   wog       |   la oozoon  |              |
+ | I sail    | Ni be mash    | Ni be       |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |               |   mashin    |              |              |
+ | Thou      | Ki be mash    | Ki be       |  --          |  --          |
+ |   sailest |               |   mashin    |              |              |
+ | He sails  | Bi mash é     | Be mash eo  |  --          |  --          |
+ | We sail   | Ni bi         | Ni bi       |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |   mishimin    |   mashinan  |              |              |
+ | Ye sail   | Ki bi         | Ki bi mashin|  --          |  --          |
+ |           |   mash im     |   a wao     |              |              |
+ | They sail | Bi mash       | Be mash     |  --          |  --          |
+ |           |   i wog       |   i wog     |              |              |
+ | I sleep   | Ni ni b[=a]   | Ni ni ban   | Zus tee ay   | Thee id ghee.|
+ | Thou      | Ki ni ba      | Ki ni ban   | Zin tee ay   | Theend ghee. |
+ |   sleepest|               |             |              |              |
+ | He sleeps | Ni ba         | Ni ba o     | Na gho tee   | Thad ghee.   |
+ |           |               |             |   azay       |              |
+ | We sleep  | Ni ni b[=a]   | Ni ni b[=a]n| Zut ié tsho  | Theed        |
+ |           |   min         |   an        |              |   gh[=a]z    |
+ | Ye sleep  | Ki ni bam     | Ki ni ban   | Tsuz ié      | Thood ghaz   |
+ |           |               |   [=a] wao  |   tsho       |              |
+ | They      | Ni ba wog     | Ni ba wog   | Tsugh ien    | Hay ud       |
+ |   sleep   |               |             |   tiez       |   ghaz       |
+ | I drink   | Ni minik way  | Ni minik wan| Uzto         | Haysta       |
+ | Thou      | Ki minik way  | Ki minik    | Nadho        | Nad-ha       |
+ |  drinkest |               |   wan       |              |              |
+ | He drinks | Minik way     | Minik way o | Ughiehedo    | Ee ed ha     |
+ | We drink  | Ni minik      | Ni minik    | May ee ta    | Heel tell    |
+ |           |   way min     |   w[=a]nan  |              |              |
+ | Ye drink  | Ki mink waim  | Ki minik    | May lee      | Hool tell    |
+ |           |               |   wan[=a]wao|   ta la      |              |
+ | They      | Minikway wog  | Minikway wok| May atta     | He el tell   |
+ |   drink   |               |             |              |              |
+ | I want to | Ni we         | Ni we       | O ghoz to    | Oz ta in     |
+ |   drink   |   miniquay    |   miniquan  |              |   is tan     |
+ | Drink     | Minik quaine  | Minik quay  | Llhad ho     | Ned ha       |
+ | Eat       | Wiss in       | Mee tisso   | In tzits     | Zinhud hee   |
+ | Sleep     | Ni b[=a]n     | Ni ba       | Njuz ti ay   | Dthin ghee   |
+ | Go away   | Eko k[=a]n    | Awiss tay   | E yow é      | E you        |
+ |           |               |             |   tshay      |   issay      |
+ | Come here | Undass is     | Ass-tum     | Tee ad zay   | E youk       |
+ |           |   han         |             |              |   uz ay      |
+ | Tell him  | Win da ma o   | Wi da ma o  | Tee ay tin   | Hal in nee   |
+ |           |               |             |   day        |              |
+ | Trade     | At[=a]waine   | Ataway      | Tee ay gho   | Na il nee    |
+ |           |               |             |   tsho       |              |
+ | Whence    | Andé          | Tanté way   | Tee ay ghay  | Ed luzeet    |
+ |  do you   |  wentchipai   |    to tay   |   dzin aghon |  gho adzee   |
+ |   come?   |  an           |             |   dee ay     |  an adee     |
+ | Where     | Andé aish     | Tanté ay to | Tee ay ghay  | Ed luzeet    |
+ |  are you  |   [=a]e an    |   tay an    |   de [=a]za  |   hee hee    |
+ |   going?  |               |             |              |   ya         |
+ | Be quick  | Wee weep é    | Kee-ee pee  | Dzag ghay    | Ee-gha       |
+ |           |   tan         |             |              |              |
+ | I shoot   | Ni bas giss   | Ni bas giss | A jes tee o  | A yous       |
+ |           |   é gay       |   é gan     |              |   kay        |
+ | Thou      | Ki bas giss   | Ki bas giss | A tee tshe   | Ahil kay     |
+ |   shootest|   é gay       |   é gan     |   etsh       |              |
+ | He shoots | B[=a]s giss   | Bas giss    | Agha tee et  | Ahil guth    |
+ |           |   e gay       |   e gay-o   |   yetsh      |              |
+ | We shoot  | Ni bas gisse  | Ni bas gisse| Ateed yetsh  | Ahel keeth   |
+ |           |   gay min     |   g[=a]n an |              |              |
+ | Ye        | Ki bas gisse  | Ki bas giss | Atad yetsh   | Er. ool      |
+ |   shoot   |   game        |   é gan [=a]|              |   keeth.     |
+ |           |               |    wao      |              |              |
+ | They      | B[=a]s gisse  | Bas giss é  | Aza du ghad  | Tay ar el    |
+ |   shoot   |   gay wog     |   gay wog   |   yetsh      |   keeth.     |
+ | A Gun     | B[=a]s gisse  | Bas giss é  | Tié yaz o o  | Tel git      |
+ |           |   gan         |   gan       |              |   hay.       |
+ | Powder    | Makatay       | Kas. ki tay | Al aizay     | Tel ge       |
+ |           |               |   o         |              |   gonna.     |
+ | Shot      | She shep ass  | Nisk ass in | Noo tay      | Telt hay.    |
+ |           |   nin         |   ee a      |   ad-o o     |              |
+ | Give me   | Meesh ish in  | Mee an      | Tes yay      | Daz ee.      |
+ | I give    | Ki mee nin    | Ki mee      | Nan uz lay   | Na gha on    |
+ |   you     |               |   ni tin    |              |   in in nee. |
+ | Look      | In [=a] bin   | Et[=a] bi   | Ag gan eetha | Ghon el lee. |
+ | Wait      | Pee ton       | Pay ho      | Ad oog-a.    | Gad day.     |
+ | Tobacco   | Na say ma     | Na stay mao | Aday ka yazé | Sel tooe.    |
+ | Pipe      | Poagan        | Os poagan   | Tsee ay      | Dthay.       |
+ | Net       | Assup         | A he apee   | Too me       | Dtka bill.   |
+ | Fish      | Kee k[=o]     | Kee no      | Tloo         | Tloo-ay.     |
+ |           |               |   shay o    |              |              |
+ | Flesh     | Wee-ass       | Wee ass     | Ad zun       | Berr.        |
+ | River     | See pé        | See pé      | Za ghay      | D[=a]z.      |
+ | Lake      | Sa ka i gan   | Sa ka i gan | Meet hay     | Nad koo al   |
+ |           |               |             |              |   ta.        |
+ | Water     | Nee pee       | Nee pee     | Too          | Too.         |
+ | Summer    | Nee been      | Nee been    |Ad o lay      | Seen nay.    |
+ | Winter    | Pay poon      | Pay pun     | Ealk hay ay  | Gh[=a] e     |
+ |           |               |             |              |   yay.       |
+ | Spring    | See goan      | Me as gamin | Do o         | Tloo guth.   |
+ | Autumn    | Tag w[=a] gin | Tag w[=a]   | Edoo         | Ghao ud      |
+ |           |               |   gin       |   aidlosin   |   azay.      |
+ -------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service
+in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean
+
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