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diff --git a/old/14293-8.txt b/old/14293-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5de4446..0000000 --- a/old/14293-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14321 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Complete Book of Cheese, by Robert Carlton Brown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -BOB BROWN - - -The Complete Book -of Cheese - - -_Illustrations by_ Eric Blegvad - -[Illustration] - -_Gramercy Publishing Company - -New York_ -1955 - - -_Author of_ - -THE WINE COOK BOOK - -AMERICA COOKS - -10,000 SNACKS - -SALADS AND HERBS - -THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK - -SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES - -THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK - -LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK! - -THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK - -THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ - -MOST FOR YOUR MONEY - -OUTDOOR COOKING - -FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK - -THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK - -_Co-author of Food and Drink Books by_ The Browns - -LET THERE BE BEER! - -HOMEMADE HILARITY - - - - -[Illustration: TO] - -TO - -PHIL - -ALPERT - -_Turophile Extraordinary_ - - - - -[Illustration: Contents] - -1 I Remember Cheese - -2 The Big Cheese - -3 Foreign Greats - -4 Native Americans - -5 Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - -6 The Fondue - -7 Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - -8 Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes and Cheese Cake - -9 Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - -10 Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - -11 "Fit for Drink" - -12 Lazy Lou - - -APPENDIX--The A-B-Z of Cheese - -INDEX OF RECIPES - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter One_ - -I Remember Cheese - - -Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the -cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the -millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with a -hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of judging a -crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness for centuries. -The abracadabra is comparable to that of the wine-taster or -tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear of music-masters and, -merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down to an air pocket left by a -gas bubble just how mature the interior is. - -The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and I, too, -that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread handy and made my -way from one fine cheese to another, trying out generous plugs from -the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at -Antietam. - -I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I -stocked up on good Schweizerkäse and better Gruyère. For lunch I had -cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound -Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little café, -absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal quantities. I learned that a -prize cheese must be chock-full of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes -produced during fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar -glass. The cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its -flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement each other -as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There are, I learned, -"blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the million-eyed ones are better. - -But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for cheese -memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over the cheeses of -all nations, first importing them, then imitating them, from Swiss -Engadine to what we call Genuine Sprinz. We've naturalized -Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns and baptized our own Saaland -Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty popular Italian types we duplicate -more than half, some fairly well, others badly. - -We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the -Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield -County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy Neufchâtel, New York Coon, -Vermont Sage, the delicious Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and -dozens of others, not all quite so original. - -And, true to the American way, we've organized cheese-eating. There's -an annual cheese week, and a cheese month (October). We even boast a -mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month Club. We haven't yet reached the point -of sophistication, however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets -regularly. To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred -basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded. - -This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I -have during the past year or two been sharpening my cheese perception -with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run -into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like -Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is one of -the greatest--and least competitively crowded--of sports. I hope this -book may lead others to give it a try. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Two_ - -The Big Cheese - - -One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed in at four -tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years ago. Another -monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in the New York State -Fair at Syracuse in 1937. - -Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way from New -Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of 1924. But, -compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a Baby Gouda. As a -matter of fact, neither England nor any of her great dairying colonies -have gone in for mammoth jobs, except Canada, with that four-tonner -shown at Toronto. - -We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can find out -all about them in _Cheddar Gorge,_ edited by Sir John Squire. The -first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the -year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its -heft almost tied the 147-pound Green County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss -presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation -of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 -percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under 150, His Royal -Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed high hat and all, was a -hundred-weight heavier, and thus almost dwarfed it. - -It was almost a century later that the second record-breaking Chester -weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it won a Gold Medal and a -Challenge Cup and was presented to the King, who graciously accepted -it. This was more than Queen Victoria had done with a bridal gift -cheese that tipped the scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's -yield from 780 contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, -measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The assembled -donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they asked royal -permission to exhibit it on a round of country fairs. The Queen -assented to this ambitious request, perhaps prompted by the -exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking cheesemongers assured -Her Majesty that the gift would be returned to her just as soon as it -had been exhibited. But the Queen didn't want it back after it was -show-worn. The donors began to quarrel among themselves about what to -do with the remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many -lost causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again. - -While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the better, -(much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is better than a pint), -there is a limit to the obesity of a block, ball or brick of almost -any kinds of cheese. When they pass a certain limit, they lack -homogeneity and are not nearly so good as the smaller ones. Today a -good magnum size for an exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize -Provolone, 280 pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw -crowds to any food-shop window. - -Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese Hall of -Fame and come down to us in song and story. For example, that four-ton -Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, James McIntyre, who doubled as -the local undertaker. - - We have thee, mammoth cheese, - Lying quietly at your ease; - Gently fanned by evening breeze, - Thy fair form no flies dare seize. - - All gaily dressed soon you'll go - To the greatest provincial show, - To be admired by many a beau - In the city of Toronto. - - May you not receive a scar as - We have heard that Mr. Harris - Intends to send you off as far as - The great world's show at Paris. - - Of the youth beware of these, - For some of them might rudely squeeze - And bite your cheek; then song or glees - We could not sing, oh, Queen of Cheese. - -An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was inspired by "The -Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of Cheshire." This was in the -summer of 1801 when the patriotic people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, -turned out en masse to concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green -for presentation to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique -demonstration occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the -greatest political triumph of a new country in a new century--the -victory of the Democrats over the Federalists. Its collective making -was heralded in Boston's _Mercury and New England Palladium_, -September 8, 1801: - - _The Mammoth Cheese_ - - AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD - - From meadows rich, with clover red, - A thousand heifers come; - The tinkling bells the tidings spread, - The milkmaid muffles up her head, - And wakes the village hum. - - In shining pans the snowy flood - Through whitened canvas pours; - The dyeing pots of otter good - And rennet tinged with madder blood - Are sought among their stores. - - The quivering curd, in panniers stowed, - Is loaded on the jade, - The stumbling beast supports the load, - While trickling whey bedews the road - Along the dusty glade. - - As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred, - The arid deserts roam, - Through trackless sands undaunted tread, - With skins of water on their head - To cheer their masters home, - - So here full many a sturdy swain - His precious baggage bore; - Old misers e'en forgot their gain, - And bed-rid cripples, free from pain, - Now took the road before. - - The widow, with her dripping mite - Upon her saddle horn, - Rode up in haste to see the sight - And aid a charity so right, - A pauper so forlorn. - - The circling throng an opening drew - Upon the verdant-grass - To let the vast procession through - To spread their rich repast in view, - And Elder J. L. pass. - - Then Elder J. with lifted eyes - In musing posture stood, - Invoked a blessing from the skies - To save from vermin, mites and flies, - And keep the bounty good. - - Now mellow strokes the yielding pile - From polished steel receives, - And shining nymphs stand still a while, - Or mix the mass with salt and oil, - With sage and savory leaves. - - Then sextonlike, the patriot troop, - With naked arms and crown, - Embraced, with hardy hands, the scoop, - And filled the vast expanded hoop, - While beetles smacked it down. - - Next girding screws the ponderous beam, - With heft immense, drew down; - The gushing whey from every seam - Flowed through the streets a rapid stream, - And shad came up to town. - -This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated today by -a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of Cheshire, located -between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route 8. - -Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of Cheshire -rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a token of fidelity -from the very heart of the people of this land to the great cause of -equal rights to all men." - -This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren -succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar mammoth cheese in -token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger -than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their -loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the -hall of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the -fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had eaten their -fill. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Three_ - -Foreign Greats - - _Ode to Cheese_ - - - God of the country, bless today Thy cheese, - For which we give Thee thanks on bended knees. - Let them be fat or light, with onions blent, - Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether scent - Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard - Let them, good Lord, at dawn be beaten hard. - And let their edges take on silvery shades - Under the moist red hands of dairymaids; - And, round and greenish, let them go to town - Weighing the shepherd's folding mantle down; - Whether from Parma or from Jura heights, - Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites, - Stamped with the mitre of a proud abbess. - Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of Bresse, - From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, - From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy! - Bless them, good Lord! Bless Stilton's royal fare, - Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyère. - - FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S TRANSLATION - OF A POEM BY M. Thomas Braun - - _Symphonie des Fromages_ - - A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with an ax, - stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss Gruyère - resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot There were Dutch Edams, - round and blood-red, and Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on - parade. Three Bries, side by side, suggested phases of the moon; - two of them, very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the - third, in its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And all the - while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely contempt upon - the other, through the glass of their crystal covers. - - Emile Zola - -In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture published Handbook -No. 54, entitled _Cheese Varieties and Descriptions,_ with this -comment: "There probably are only about eighteen distinct types or -kinds of natural cheese." All the rest (more than 400 names) are of -local origin, usually named after towns or communities. A list of the -best-known names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups -is given: - - Brick Gouda Romano - Camembert Hand Roquefort - Cheddar Limburger Sapsago - Cottage Neufchâtel Swiss - Cream Parmesan Trappist - Edam Provolone Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta) - - -May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We -begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and -end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that -includes Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred. - - -The Blues that Are Green - -Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that rules a -world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as green as the -mythical cheese the moon is made of. - -In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a handful of -lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three and try to -classify them, until you're blue in the face. The best we can do in -this slight summary is to mention a few of the most notable, aside -from our own Blues of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and other states -that major in cheese. - -Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as "Flower of -Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass Blue all its own. -But France and England are the leaders in this line, France first with -a sort of triple triumvirate within a triumvirate--Septmoncel, Gex, -and Sassenage, all three made with three milks mixed together: cow, -goat and sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura -mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank -Roquefort. - -This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage persillé, as -well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. Similar mountain cheeses are made -in Auvergne and Aubrac and have distinct qualities that have brought -them fame, such as Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de -Salers, and St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color -scheme, and sundry others such as Champoléon, Journiac, Queyras and -Sarraz. - -Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and -Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early days, and still -is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and -esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the -favorite of Thomas Hardy. - - -Brie - -Sheila Hibben once wrote in _The New Yorker:_ - -I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen -of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly -ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly -fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you -down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or -at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come -on the tenth Brie, _coulant_ to just the right, delicate creaminess, -and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with -it. - -The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only -months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar -none. - - -Caciocavallo - -From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo -translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the -Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations -are made and named after it, as follows: - - BULGARIA: Kascaval - - GREECE: Kashcavallo and Caskcaval - - HUNGARY: Parenica - - RUMANIA: Pentele and Kascaval - - SERBIA: Katschkawalj - - SYRIA: Cashkavallo - - TRANSYLVANIA: Kascaval (as in Rumania) - - TURKEY: Cascaval Penir - - YUGOSLAVIA: Kackavalj - -A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its popular name and -to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It is, however, curded -from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, and sometimes from water -buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery that the best of it, which comes -from Sorrento, is called _Cacio burro,_ butter cheese. Slightly salty, -with a spicy tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for -grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian pastes -but on sweets. - -Different from the many grating cheeses made from little balls of curd -called _grana_, Caciocavallo is a _pasta fileta_, or drawn-curd -product. Because of this it is sometimes drawn out in long thick -threads and braided. It is a cheese for skilled artists to make -sculptures with, sometimes horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and -other fruits, even as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and -often worked into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the -horse's head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob -on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a time, on -opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly golden and -rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the more buttery. - -In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the best comes -from Sorrento, there is keen competition from Abruzzi, Apulian -Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't spoil when shipped -overseas. - -In his _Little Book of Cheese_ Osbert Burdett recommends the high, -horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over tobacco smoke after dinner: - - Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me that - Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, some pungency - is necessary, and confidence suggests rather Cacio which would - survive anything, the monster said. - -Camembert - -Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine is labeled -_Syndicat du Vrai Camembert_. The name in full is _Syndicat des -Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de Normandie_ and we agree that this -is "a most useful association for the defense of one of the best -cheeses of France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, -except perhaps by Brie. - -Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the waitress who -first served it to him in the tiny town of Camembert. And there a -statue stands today in the market place to honor Marie Harel who made -the first Camembert. - -Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, pineapple, pear, -French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie and with oysters, -Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" months, and of these -September is the best. - -Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the _véritable_ -don't fall for a domestic imitation or any West German abomination -such as one dressed like a valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled -"Camembert--Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, chalky with -youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and decrepit. - -Cheddar - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ says: - - Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale coloured, - mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a hazelnut in flavour. - The Cheddar principle pervades the whole cheesemaking districts - of America, Canada and New Zealand, but no cheese imported into - England can equal the Cheddars of Somerset and the West of - Scotland. - -Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first -manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse Cheddar, but in -America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be -ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our -American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote -that it "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, -according to magnitude) with any cheese in England." - -Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second after -Stilton, of course. - -In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of family -feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can be kept for -two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool room and turned -over every other day." - -But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... I asked -one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her eyes twinkled: -'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'" - -Cheshire - -A Cheshireman sailed into Spain -To trade for merchandise; -When he arrived from the main -A Spaniard him espies. -Who said, "You English rogue, look here! -What fruits and spices fine -Our land produces twice a year. -Thou has not such in thine." - -The Cheshireman ran to his hold -And fetched a Cheshire cheese, -And said, "Look here, you dog, behold! -We have such fruits as these. -Your fruits are ripe but twice a year, -As you yourself do say, -But such as I present you here -Our land brings twice a day." - -Anonymous - - Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far - too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the inn, of the - chophouse, of the average English home, is a libel on a thing - which, when authentic, is worthy of great honor. Cheshire, - divinely commanded into existence as to three parts to precede - and as to one part to accompany certain Tawny Ports and some - Late-Bottled Ports, can be a thing for which the British Navy - ought to fire a salute on the principle on which Colonel Brisson - made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian - vineyard. - - T. Earle Welby, - - IN "THE DINNER KNELL" - -Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, but the -oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar conquered Britain, and -tradition is that the Romans built the walled city of Chester to -control the district where the precious cheese was made. Chester on -the River Dee was a stronghold against the Roman invasion. - -It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan times and -waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the Fleet Street Inn -where White Cheshire was served "with radishes or watercress or celery -when in season," and Red Cheshire was served toasted or stewed in a -sort of Welsh Rabbit. (_See_ Chapter 5.) - -The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in -_Cheddar Gorge_ suggests that "it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, -discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that -accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in -Alice in Wonderland." - -All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet: - - _Dans le Chester sec et rose - A longues dents, l'Anglais mord._ - - In the Chester dry and pink - The long teeth of the English sink. - -Edam and Gouda - _Edam in Peace and War_ - -There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men -on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, -excellent cheeses. - -Pepys' _Diary_, March 2,1663 - - Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of - the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland - cheese for cannon balls. - - _The Harbinger_ (Vermont), December 11, 1847 - -The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world. -Known as "red balls" in England and _katzenkopf,_ "cat's head," in -Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being -round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas. - -Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is -horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the -ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese -potted with sauterne. Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to -develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for -Edam. - -The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed -(black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of -Friesland and Noord Holland). - -The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, -come from South Holland. Some are specially made for the Jewish trade -and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes -thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on -black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're -also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa. - -"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides. - -Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss - - When the working woman - Takes her midday lunch, - It is a piece of Gruyère - Which for her takes the place of roast. - -Victor Meusy - -Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkäse, grand Gruyère from -France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and -glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making -and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size -of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye -of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear. - -Gruyère does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen -cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them; -let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This -variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes -at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles. - -Gruyère Trauben (Grape Gruyère) is aged in Neuchâtel wine in -Switzerland, although most Gruyère has been made in France since its -introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and -another is called Comté from its origin in Franche-Comté. - -A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to Italy where -it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese called Raper, and -now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, in fact, because of its -piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable quality, is simulated -everywhere, even in Switzerland. - -Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as Finland, we -get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with -all possible faults--from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly -cheese, to too few--cracked, dried-up, collapsed or utterly ruined by -molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked -genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six -years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever. - -Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in cheese -cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in France), and -it is said that the rank of a family is determined by the age and -quality of the cheese in its larder. - - -Feta and Casere - -The Greeks have a name for it--Feta. Their neighbors call it Greek -cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to honey. The two together -make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and as blinding white as a plate of -fresh Ricotta smothered with sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by -shipping the cheese all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of -milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in -brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat -sharp, but superbly spicy. - -When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping -through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos -Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then -compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This -gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made -us bleat for more Feta. - - -Gorgonzola - -Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including -Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all -other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many -epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the -highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it -has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when -fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich -green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is -eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort. - - -Hablé Crème Chantilly - -The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is -Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package: -"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful -freshness." - -This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was hailed by Sheila -Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as -Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a -new star: - - Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest - that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a historic event and that - in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that - the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady - of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on - the first Camembert. - -Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la crème made in -Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish -triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is -a very special product that has never been made on this earth before," -and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, -"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor -combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have -come my way in a long time." - -And so say we--all of us. - -Hand Cheese - -Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we -consider it great, but because it is usually included among the -eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is -named from having been molded into its final shape by hand. -Universally popular with Germanic races, it is too strong for the -others. To our mind, Hand cheese never had anything that Allgäuer or -Limburger hasn't improved upon. - -It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of beer and -drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with caraway seeds, the -most natural spice for curds. - - -Limburger - -Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it was -brought over by German-American immigrants; but England never took to -it. This is eloquently expressed in the following entry in the English -_Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_: - - Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently offensive - odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed to partially - decompose before pressing. It is very little known in this - country, and might be less so with advantage to consumers. - -But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has brought -gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes since it came to -light in the province of Lüttich in Belgium. It has been Americanized -for almost a century and is by now one of the very few cheeses -successfully imitated here, chiefly in New York and Wisconsin. - -Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green -County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan -that was accustomed to park in the little town of Monroe where it was -marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump -the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were -left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The Limburger was -finally stored safely underground. - - -Livarot - -Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine of them -all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem dedicated to all the -great French cheeses, of which we give a free translation: - - In the dog days - In its overflowing dish - Livarot gesticulates - Or weeps like a child. - - -Münster - - At the diplomatic banquet - One must choose his piece. - All is politics, - A cheese and a flag. - - You annoy the Russians - If you take Chester; - You irritate the Prussians - In choosing Münster. - - -Victor Meusy - -Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, does not -fare well in England. Although over here we consider Münster far -milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in _When Madame -Cooks_ will have none of it: - -I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes -during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have -proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill -people permanently. - - -Neufchâtel - - If the cream cheese be white - Far fairer the hands that made them. - - Arthur Hugh Clough - -Although originally from Normandy, Neufchâtel, like Limburger, was so -long ago welcomed to America and made so splendidly at home here that -we may consider it our very own. All we have against it is that it has -served as the model for too many processed abominations. - -Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano - -Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on bread. But -when well aged, let us say up to a century, it becomes Rock of -Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for grating. It is easy to -believe that the so-called "Spanish cheese" used as a barricade by -Americans in Nicaragua almost a century ago was none other than the -almost indestructible Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy. - -The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. days with -the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers not only for its -energy value but as a convenient form of rations, since every army -travels on its stomach and can't go faster than its impedimenta. The -last notable mention of cheese in war was the name of the _Monitor_: -"A cheese box on a raft." - -Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, -sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups such as onion and -minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged. - -Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both Parmesan -and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in Argentina. Romano -and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names for the strong, -medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that sell for considerably -less. Most of it is now shipped from Sardinia. There are several -different kinds: Pecorino Dolce (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino -Romano Cacio, which relates it to Caciocavallo. - -Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of Pecorino are -soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., in her "Letter from -Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable _Little Book of Cheese_, writes: - - Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, had - provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread and a slab - of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any "thou" for either) ... - But that cheese was Paradise; and the flask was emptied, and a - wood dove cooing made you think that the flask's contents were in - a crystal goblet instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and - the cheese broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses. - - -Pont L'Evêque - -This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic made since -the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert cheese whose -excellence is brought out best by a sound claret or tawny port. - - -Port-Salut (_See_ Trappist) - - -Provolone - -Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as -Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and such great -ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here -because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable -in the Americas. - -With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is put up in -all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, pears, bells, a -regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of sizes, up to a monumental -hundred-pound bas-relief imported for exhibition purposes by Phil -Alpert. - - -Roquefort - -Homage to this _fromage!_ Long hailed as _le roi_ Roquefort, it has -filled books and booklets beyond count. By the miracle of _Penicillium -Roqueforti_ a new cheese was made. It is placed historically back -around the eighth century when Charlemagne was found picking out the -green spots of Persillé with the point of his knife, thinking them -decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, recorded in -their annals that when they regaled him with Roquefort (because it was -Friday and they had no fish) they also made bold to tell him he was -wasting the best part of the cheese. So he tasted again, found the -advice excellent and liked it so well he ordered two _caisses_ of it -sent every year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested -that it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with -blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening. - -Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from mice and -rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be expected to send an -escort of cats from their chalky caves to guard them--even for -Charlemagne. There is no telling how many cats were mustered out in -the caves, in those early days, but a recent census put the number at -five hundred. We can readily imagine the head handler in the caves -leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster -and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese -also employ cats to patrol their storage caves, Roquefort holds the -record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as -rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown -away but greatly prized. - - -Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese - -The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for whey -cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, a kind of -clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from Switzerland in a hard, -truncated cone wrapped in a piece of paper that says: - - To be used grated only - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese - Made of skimmed milk and herbs - - To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? Try the - contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading mixed with butter, - excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, spaghetti, potatoes, soup, - etc. Can be used in place of any other cheese. _Do not take too - much, you might spoil the flavor_. - -We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an envelope, -and to this day, six months later, the scent of Sapsago clings 'round -it still. - - -Stilton - - _Honor for Cheeses_ - - Literary and munching circles in London are putting quite a lot - of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton cheese. There is a - Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir John Squire at the head, and - already the boys are fighting. - - One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument. - - This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton itself, - although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a pretty effective - cheese-shaped figure and call it "Dolorosa." - - The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who first - introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group showing Mrs. - Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and introducing it, - while the Stilton curtsies.) - - T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a monument, - but wants to establish a Foundation for the Preservation of - Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this plan would depend - largely on the site selected for the treasure house and the cost - of obtaining a curator who could, or would, give his whole time - to the work. - - Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, agrees with - Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best form. - - "I should like," he says, "something irrelevant--gargoyles, - perhaps." - - I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there. - - I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this great - movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube Goldberg. - - If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be established - between England and America, although the exchange, in the case - of Stilton, would have to be all on England's side. - - We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while England - furnishes the cheese. - - There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two - countries. - - Robert Benchley, in _After 1903--What?_ - -When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an endless -after-dinner conversation piece to which England points with pride. -For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's -introduction to this book. - - -Taleggio and Bel Paese - -When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported Bel Paese -some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to America. But as the -years went on and imitations were made in many lands, Galbini deemed -it wise to set up his own factory in _our_ beautiful country. However, -the domestic Bel Paese and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino -just didn't have that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the -German copy called Schönland, after the original, or the French Fleur -des Alpes. - -Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked up the -market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini hit the -jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the sharpest, most -sophisticated pungence of them all. - - -Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka - -In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. Always of the -elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du Salut from the -original home of the Trappist monks in their chief French abbey, it is -also set apart from the ordinary Canadians under the name of Oka, from -the Trappist monastery there. It is made by Trappist monks all over -the world, according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist -Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in Kentucky. - -This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You can't go wrong -if you look for the monastery name stamped on, such as Harzé in -Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, -and so forth. - -Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without benefit -of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the Lion Brand. It -is one of the finest American cheeses in which we have ever sunk a -fang. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Four_ - -Native Americans - - -American Cheddars - -The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around Plymouth by -Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese from the homeland -but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof of our ability to -manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the fact that by 1790 we were -exporting it back to England. - -It was called Cheddar after the English original named for the village -of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it made a new name -for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the section of New York State -where it was first made best. Herkimer still equals its several -distinguished competitors, Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, -Pineapple, Sage, Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn. - -The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, Cheddar, while -here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its -prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese -because of its affinity for the all-American dessert. - -The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in Rome, New -York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer County Cheddar -already widely known, this established "New York" as the preferred -"store-boughten" cheese. - -An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer Wooden Nutmeg -Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting book, _They Broke the -Prairies_. A Yankee named Silvanus Ferris, "the most successful -dairyman of Herkimer County," in the first decades of the 1800's -teamed up with Robert Nesbit, "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They -bought from farmers in the region and sold in New York City. And -"according to the business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to -cheapen the cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a -bad market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived in -a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, the seller, -unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the market price, snapped -up the offer. - -Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market, -so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years -fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer, -Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack. - -Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured, -and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and -described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their -states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and -Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon -and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of -Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as -Cheddars at all, although they are basically that. - - -Brick - -Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives -America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too -close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its -crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more -distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our -opinion is less worth bragging about. - -It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and -melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its -taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this -has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most -appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To -make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added. - -About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County, -Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole -cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked -firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in -the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of -bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this -double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to -the confusion about which came first in originating the name. - -The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and -they ripen slowly, taking up to two months. - -We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from -Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York. - -Colorado Blackie Cheese - -A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese -map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles -Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. This is a proud new -American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in -England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable -characters all on their own. - - -Coon Cheese - -Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at a higher -temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from the growth of -mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more ordinary Cheddars to -make them look like Coon, which always brings a 10 percent premium -above the general run. - -Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from a host of -admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in Phineas Beck's -_Kitchen_, who raised it to the par of French immortals by calling it -Fromage de Coon. Clementine used it "with scintillating success in -countless French recipes which ended with the words _gratiner au four -et servir tres chaud_. She made _baguettes_ of it by soaking sticks -three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in lukewarm -milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs and browning -them instantaneously in boiling oil." - - -Herkimer County Cheese - -The standard method for making American Cheddar was established in -Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been rigidly maintained -down to this day. Made with rennet and a bacterial "starter," the curd -is cut and pressed to squeeze out all of the whey and then aged in -cylindrical forms for a year or more. - -Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, sharp and -nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale -orange color when it is properly aged. - - -Isigny - -Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It seems to be -extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, for it never meant -to be anything more than another Camembert, of which we have plenty of -imitation. - -Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect Isigny. -The curd was carefully prepared according to an original formula, -washed and rubbed and set aside to come of age. But when it did, alas, -it was more like Limburger than Camembert, and since good domestic -Limburger was then a dime a pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet -in shape the newborn resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. -So they cut it down and named it after the delicate French Creme -d'lsigny. - - -Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack - -Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California county -where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, and only now -takes its full name after sixty years of popularity on the West Coast. -Because it is little known in the East and has to be shipped so far, -it commands the top Cheddar price. - -Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto coloring. -It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it gets sharper -with age and more expensive because of storage costs. - - -Liederkranz - -No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and so -deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of Song." - -Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young delicatessen -keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an -imitation of Bismarck Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the -imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and -Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz singing -society, didn't feel like singing without it. But Emil's attempts at -imitation only added indigestion to their dejection, until one -day--_fabelhaft!_ One of those cheese dream castles in Spain came -true. He turned out a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow -little marvel that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old -Schlosskäse. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized Limburger, both a -man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious women adored. - -Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz customers. It soon -became as internationally known as tabasco from Texas or Parisian -Camembert which it slightly resembles. Borden's bought out Frey in -1929 and they enjoy telling the story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E -Day in Paris, sent to his family in Indiana, only a few miles from the -factory at Van Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was -"the finest cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, -there was Liederkranz. - -Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between -two foreign immortals in the following recipe: - - - Schnitzelbank Pot - -1 ripe Camembert cheese -1 Liederkranz -1/8 pound imported Roquefort -1/4 pound butter -1 tablespoon flour -1 cup cream -1/2 cup finely chopped olives -1/4 cup canned pimiento -A sprinkling of cayenne - - Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of Camembert - and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any thick part off, - or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the - Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix - into an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will - turn the cheese black in cooking. - - Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a smooth, - creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, and mix in the - olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle well with cayenne and - put into a pot to mellow for a few days, or much longer. - -The name _Schnitzelbank_ comes from "school bench," a game. This -snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party and stein songs. -It is also the affinity-spread with rye and pumpernickel, and may be -served in small sandwiches or on crackers, celery and such, to make -appetizing tidbits for cocktails, tea, or cider. - -Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is eaten best at -room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If kept in the -refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of hours before serving. -Since it is a natural cheese mixture, which has gone through no -process or doping with preservative, it will not keep more than two -weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is the sort of ideal the factory -processors shoot at with their olive-pimiento abominations. Once -you've potted your own, you'll find it gives the same thrill as -garnishing your own Liptauer. - - -Minnesota Blue - -The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the Mississippi, -in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has established a -distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the state. Although the -Roquefort process of France is followed and the cheese is inoculated -in the same way by mold from bread, it can never equal the genuine -imported, marked with its red-sheep brand, because the milk used in -Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, and the caves are sandstone instead of -limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right. - - -Pineapple - -Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its flavor, -although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is noticeable -near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate through to the -Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese have tampered with the -original, so today you can't be sure of anything except getting a -smaller size every year or two, at a higher price. Originally six -pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk to nearly six ounces. The proper -bright-orange, oiled and shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly -lemon. - -Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the side-board -under a silver bell also made to represent a pineapple. You cut a top -slice off the cheese, just as you would off the fruit, and there was a -rose-colored, fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a -special silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was -put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept the -cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the rind the -shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some salubrious cold -Fondue or salad. - -Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked harder, -Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net that makes -diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, simulating the sections of -the fruit. It is a pioneer American product with almost a century and -a half of service since Lewis M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in -Litchfield County, Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and -made a deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what -before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese. - -Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in old England, -also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the hanging up of -Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four -sustaining strings. - - - Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State - -The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called originally, -shows the several phases most cheeses have gone through, from their -simple, honest beginnings to commercialization, and sometimes back to -the real thing. - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ has an early Sage -recipe: - - This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and - greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it is given thus: - Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage leaves with an equal - quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze out the juice. Add this to - the extract of rennet and stir into the milk as much as your - taste may deem sufficient. Break the curd when it comes, salt it, - fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn - the cheese every day. - -_Fancy Cheese in America, lay_ Charles A. Publow, records the -commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a century or two -later, in 1910: - - Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar variety. Its - distinguishing features are a mottled green color and a sage - flavor. The usual method of manufacture is as follows: One-third - of the total amount of milk is placed in a vat by itself and - colored green by the addition of eight to twelve ounces of - commercial sage color to each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn - leaves (unavailable in England) or other substances are used for - coloring, the amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then - made up by the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the whey - the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, however, to mix - the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is - secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed - over the curd with an atomizer. The curd is then salted and - pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes. - - A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York State - College of Agriculture by simply dropping green coloring, made - from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after - milling. An even green mottling is thus easily secured without - additional labor. Sage flavoring extract is sprayed over the curd - by an atomizer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient - for a hundred pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses. - -A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) method: - - Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at present the - cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild sage because it has - the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, thujone, is diluted with - water, 250 parts to one, and either added to the milk or sprayed - over the curds, one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk. - -In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing today, we -wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this reply: - - Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best native - Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only one factory - making it and that is my friend, George Crowley's. He makes a - limited amount for my Vermont Country Store. It is the fine - old-time full cream cheese, flavored with real sage. - - On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get enough sage - cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin cheesemaker if he - would make some. Said he would but couldn't at that time--because - the alfalfa wasn't ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to - do with sage cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese - with a synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green." - - So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw George - Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We don't use - synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that." - - "Then what do you use, George?" I inquired. - - "We use real sage." - - "Why?" - - "Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic stuff." - -The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on it: - - Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to full - flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor recalling - smoked cheese, although not related in any way. Mildly resinous - like that Near East one packed in pine, suggesting the well-saged - dressing of a turkey. A round mouthful of luscious mellowness, - with a bouquet--a snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just - a soupçon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of herb to - delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is the _véritable - vert_, green cheese--the moon is made of it! _Vert véritable._ A - general favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for - generations of lusty crumblers. - - -Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese - -We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together with some -Vermont store cheese and some crackers. - - This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store cheese--it's been - in old country stores for generations and we have been pioneers - in spreading the word about it. It is, of course, a natural aged - cheese, no processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made - the same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and also has - holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages faster. - - Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth century - and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading cheesemaking - state in the Union? When I was a lad, every town in Vermont had - one or more cheese factories. Now there are only two left--not - counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese! - - The crackers are the old-time store cracker--every Vermonter - used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and - eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold - milk, with a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These crackers are - not sweet, not salt, and as such make a good base for - anything--swell with clam chowder, also with toasted cheese.... - - -Tillamook - -It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to record the -story of Oregon's great Tillamook. _The Cheddar Box_, by Dean Collins, -comes neatly boxed and bound in golden cloth stamped with a purple -title, like the rind of a real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled _Cheese -Cheddar_, and Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled -Tillamook and molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume -I from a noted _littérateur_, and never could get him to come across -with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from a note on the -flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an excellent cheese, full -cream and medium sharp, and a unique set of books in which Volume II -suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are to be tasted, others to be -swallowed, and some few to be chewed and digested.'" - - -Wisconsin Longhorn - -Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it is only -fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of national standard, -even though it's not nearly so fancy or high-priced as some of the -regional natives that can't approach its enormous output. It's one of -those all-purpose round cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. -We are specially partial to it. - -Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all of these -thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as -Wisconsin alone. - -Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional competitors -ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no annatto coloring has been -added, through Green Bay cheese to Wisconsin Redskin and Martha -Washington Aged, proudly set forth by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who -is said to have "won more prizes in forty years than any ten -cheesemakers put together." - -To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie cheese, -the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, recognizing the -truth of Eugene Field's jingle: - - Apple pie without cheese - Is like a kiss without a squeeze. - -Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made legal and -the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. It's still in -force: - - _Butter and cheese to be served._ Every person, firm or - corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or restaurant shall - serve with each meal for which a charge of twenty-five cents or - more is made, at least two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin butter - and two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin cheese. - -Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces so much -Swiss that the state is sometimes called Swissconsin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Five_ - -Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - - - That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even - now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all - its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, - metaphysics and poetry. - - Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE - - -Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch -your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your -Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden -_fromages_ such as Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures -thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the -Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, -to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no -matter how you slice it. - -Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American -trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe -marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled -red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the -traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are -out of focus, out of order and out of this world. - -Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by -braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these -degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer -or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down -with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank -goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum -Turn Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream. - -In view of all this, we can only look to the standard cookbooks for -salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, our thoughtful mothers, -wives and sweethearts who have saved the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If -it weren't for these Fanny Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal -Welsh Rabbit would be a lost art--lost in sporting male attempts to -improve upon the original. - -The girls are still polite about the whole thing and protectively -pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to "Rarebit" in their -culinary guides. We have heard that once a club of ladies in high -society tried to high-pressure the publishers of Mr. Webster's -dictionary to change the old spelling in their favor. Yet there is a -lot to be said for this more genteel and appetizing rendering of the -word, for the Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of -cheesemongery, male or female. - -Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more -than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of Rabbits: No. 1, -the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made -with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, -there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking -encyclopedias give up to a dozen variants. Actually there are easily -half a gross of valid ones in current esteem. - -The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid ingredient, but -both the beer and the milk are used only one way--warm, or anyway at -room temperature. And again for the two, there is but one traditional -cheese--Cheddar, ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This -is also called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin -Longhorn, mouse, and even rat. - -The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes dozens of -varieties under different names, regional or commercial. These are -easily identified as sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses: - - sight: Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's one of those - round cheeses that also tastes round in the mouth. - - hearing: By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a melon-picker, - can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready for the Rabbit. - When you hear your dealer say, "It's six months old or more," - enough said. - - smell: A scent as fresh as that of the daisies and herbs the - mother milk cow munched "will hang round it still." Also a slight - beery savor. - - touch: Crumbly--a caress to the fingers. - - taste: The quintessence of this fivefold test. Just cuddle a - crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the taste buds it's - prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's proof it will melt in - the pan. - -Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 -temperance alternative) we must point out that beer has a special -affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in -their names for Welsh Rabbit, _Fromage Fondue à la Bière_ and _Fondue -à l'Anglaise_. - -To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may have a -preference all his own, for here the question comes up of how it melts -best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, chop, cut, scrape or -crumble it in the fingers? This will vary according to one's -temperament and the condition of the cheese. Generally, for best -results it is coarsely grated. When it comes to making all this into a -rare bit of Rabbit there is: - - -The One and Only Method - -Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding aluminum -and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering water in the -lower one, but don't let the water boil up or touch the top pan. - -Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of butter or -margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly grated cheese, -usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with one-half cup of -liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't necessary for a cheese that -should melt by itself.) - -The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together and kept -from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction only, over an even -heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, sterling silver or -porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft metal--the taste may come -off to taint the job. - -Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and add it -gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let it come to -the bubbling point, and never let it boil. - -Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will take two or -three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an -instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is -smooth. The consistency and velvety smoothness depend a good deal on -whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added. - -The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle the top -with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any case set it forth -as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast hellishly hot, whether it's -browned or buttered on one side or both. - -Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name was -Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." Something very -similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to cool down--when it's -cold it's cold all over, and you can't resuscitate it by heating. - - -BASIC WELSH RABBIT - - No. 1 (with beer) - -2 tablespoons butter -3 cups grated old Cheddar -1/2 teaspoon English dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with -1/2 cup light beer or ale -4 slices hot buttered toast - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, stirring - steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon in one - direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt your rhythmic - stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of the beer-and-egg - mixture until it's all used up. - - It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve the - essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick it out as - smooth as velvet. - - Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit - is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of - cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting stringy or rubbery. - Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast - and serve instantly on hot plates. - -Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and some -aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side with cold -butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot plate, buttered -side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous untoasted side so it -can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady Llanover's recipe, which -appears on page 52 of this book.) - -Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, there is now -no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, -croutons and crackers, to infinity. - - - No. 2 (with milk) - -For a rich milk Rabbit use 1/2 cup thin cream, evaporated milk, -whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. Then, to -keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or leave -it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, the -use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our feeling is -that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out. - -Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and more -cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against stringiness. -When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that a teaspoon or so of -cornstarch generally takes its place. - -Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and stirring, -so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience and rhythm. As a -rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is almost melted, and speed -of stirring slows when the eggs and last ingredients go in. - -Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps up the -flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half -teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you -are fancy-free. As both black and white pepper are now held in almost -equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do -the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco -sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but some addicts can't -leave it out any more than they can swear off the Worcestershire. - -The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that goes for -milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So let us consider -the compromise of our old friend Frederick Philip Stieff, the -Baltimore _homme de bouche_, as he set it forth for us years ago in -_10,000 Snacks_: "The idea of cooking a Rabbit with beer is an -exploded and dangerous theory. Tap your keg or open your case of ale -or beer and serve _with_, not in your Rabbit." - - - The Stieff Recipe BASIC MILK RABBIT (_completely -surrounded by a lake of malt beverages_) - -2 cups grated sharp cheese -3 heaping tablespoons butter -1-1/2 cups milk -4 eggs -1 heaping tablespoon mustard -2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce -Pepper, salt and paprika to taste--then add more of each. - - Grease well with butter the interior of your double boiler so - that no hard particles of cheese will form in the mixture later - and contribute undesirable lumps. - - Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add butter - and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should be indulged in - until Rabbit is ready for serving. - - Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, pepper, salt - and paprika. These should be beaten until light and then slowly - poured into the double boiler. Nothing now remains to be done - except to stir and cook down to proper consistency over a fairly - slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the - rabbit from the spoon and spell the word _finis_ on the surface. - Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who - does not attack it at once. - - This is sufficient for six gourmets or four gourmands. - -_Nota bene_: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should never be of the -consistency whereby it may be used to tie up bundles, nor yet should -it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor. - - - Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit - - Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and cow's - milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so much as to - drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread less than 1/4 - inch thick, to be quite crisp, and spread it very thinly with - fresh, cold butter on the toasted side. (It must not be - saturated.) Lay the toasted cheese upon the untoasted bread side - and serve immediately on a very hot plate. The butter on the - toast can, of course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten - without butter.) - -From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen still call -Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover goes on to point out -that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and the Melted or Stewed Buck -Rabbit of England (which has become our American standard) are as -different in the making as the regional cheeses used in them, and she -says that while doctors prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for -invalids, the stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to -strong digestions." - -English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese of Wales -and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent "threads of -unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments (that may be pulled -from its tough and tenacious substance)." - -Yet not all of the references are complimentary. - -Thus Shakespeare in _King Lear_: - - Look, look a mouse! - Peace, peace;--this piece of toasted cheese will do it. - -And Sydney Smith's: - - Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted - meat has led to suicide. - -But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: - - _The Welsh Enter Heaven_ - - The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth of good - singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear excellent - singing outside the walls. Why are not those singers here with - me?" - - St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they - say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" - - The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and - Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." - - St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands of the - Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, St. Peter went - to consult with St. David, who, with a smile, was reading the - works of Caradoc Evans. - - St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just inside the - gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in front of it" This - St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the sizzling, browning - cheese was wafted over the walls and, with loud shouts, a great - concourse of the Welsh came sprinting in. When sufficient were - inside to make up a male voice choir of a hundred, St Peter - slammed the gates. However, it is said that these are the only - Welsh in Heaven. - -And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice grow and grow -to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but -toasted cheese. - -Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme: - - The Irishman loved usquebaugh, - The Scot loved ale called Bluecap. - The Welshman, he loved toasted cheese, - And made his mouth like a mousetrap. - - The Irishman was drowned in usquebaugh, - The Scot was drowned in ale, - The Welshman he near swallowed a mouse - But he pulled it out by the tail. - -And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, this tune in -_Merry Wives of Windsor_: - - 'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted cheese. - -An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English with Dr. -William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen enlivened the -_Blackwoods Magazine_ era with _Ten Tales_: - - [Illustration] Dr. Maginn's Rabbit - - Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for supper. It is - the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy eating. I like it best - in the genuine Welsh way, however--that is, the toasted bread - buttered on both sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef - with mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire _thoroughly_ saturated, while, in the - process of toasting, with genuine porter, black pepper, and - shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the assertion that this is - not a heavy supper for a man who has been busy all day till - dinner in reading, writing, walking or riding--who has occupied - himself between dinner and supper in the discussion of a bottle - or two of sound wine, or any equivalent--and who proposes to - swallow at least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper. - -The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct -summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master." - -The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper sandwich -was served, a century and a half ago; for it was served as a savory to -sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form: - - - After-Dinner Rabbit - - Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides and soak - to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of sharp old cheese - in butter in an iron skillet, with an added spot of beer and dry - English mustard. Stir steadily with a wooden spoon and, when - velvety, serve a-sizzle on piping hot beer-soaked toast. - -While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy dish of -Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in Elizabethan -London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also called a Buck Rabbit, -was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where Dr. -Johnson later presided. And it must have been the pick of the town -back in the days when barrooms still had sawdust on the floor, for the -learned Doctor endorsed old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: -"There is nothing which has been contrived by man by which so much -happiness is produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as -may be judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to -"a baby's ear dropped in sawdust." - -Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the world's first -Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't have to look far for -on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of letters at "The Cheese," as -it was affectionately called. To a man they sang praises for that -piping hot dish of preserved and beatified milk. - -Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester of -_Punch_, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to the memory of -Lovelace: - - Champagne will not a dinner make, - Nor caviar a meal - Men gluttonous and rich may take - Those till they make them ill - If I've potatoes to my chop, - And after chop have cheese, - Angels in Pond and Spiers's shop - Know no such luxuries. - -All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a reasonable -substitute. The base of this is what was once quaintly called a -"hot-water bath." This was a sort of miniature wash boiler just big -enough to fit in snugly half a dozen individual tins, made squarish -and standing high enough above the bath water to keep any of it from -getting into the stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since -such a tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of -fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or even -small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler or chafing -dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the "cheese stewer" in -stainless steel, silver or glass. - -In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, "bubbling -and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding that's still famous. -Although down the centuries the recipe has been kept secret, the -identifiable ingredients have been itemized as follows: "Tender steak, -savory oyster, seductive kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent -pepper and delicate paste"--not to mention mushrooms. And after the -second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, bitter, or -the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a dented pewter pot, -"the stewed Cheshire cheese." - -Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by tradition and -appetite from the time when Charles II aled and regaled Nell Gwyn at -"The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to have sampled this "kind of -a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served piping hot in the square shallow -tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately -colored toast." - -Among early records is this report of Addison's in _The Spectator_ of -September 25,1711: - - They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about midnight, when - the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. He that yawns widest, - and at the same time so naturally as to produce the most yawns - amongst his spectators, carries home the cheese. - -Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of Simpson's in the -Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest that drew crowds to his -fashionable eating and drinking place. He would set forth a huge -portion of cheese and wager champagne and cigars for the house that no -one present could correctly estimate the weight, height and girth of -it. - -As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson to "The -Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met there, showed -that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was tuppence, and that this -was also the amount of the usual tip. - - - Ye Original Recipe - -1-1/2 ounces butter -1 cup cream -1-1/2 cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, snappier, richer, -and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) - - Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese and let - it stew. - - You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual tin, or - pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top under a - blistering salamander. - - The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your - own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own - Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast - -It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not -lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in -tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf. - -This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of Johnson's -time supped while they smoked their church wardens, received its -highest praise from an American newspaper woman who rhapsodized in -1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin shaving of crisp, golden -toast in hot silver saucers--so hot that the cheese was the substance -of thick cream, the flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries -commingled." - -This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses hold a -trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched the milk. -Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyère, Parmesan wafts the scent of -Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of England is perfumed with the -petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine. - - - Oven Rabbit (FROM AN OLD RECIPE) - - Chop small 1/2 pound of cooking cheese. Put it, with a piece of - butter the size of a walnut, in a little saucepan, and as the - butter melts and the cheese gets warm, mash them together, - - When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, 1/2 teacupful of ale, a little - cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon one way only, - until it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil - it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the - Rarebit upon them, and set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before - serving. - - - Yorkshire Rabbit _(originally called Gherkin Buck, -from a pioneer recipe_) - - Put into a saucepan 1/2 pound of cheese, sprinkle with pepper - (black, of course) to taste, pour over 1/2 teacup of ale, and - convert the whole into a smooth, creamy mass, over the fire, - stirring continually, for about 10 minutes. - - In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes altogether is - the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot toast, place a piece of - broiled bacon on the top of each and serve as hot as possible. - - - Golden Buck - - A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer (No. 1) - plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, gave it its - shining name a couple of centuries ago. Nowadays some chafing - dish show-offs try to gild the Golden Buck with dashes of ginger - and spice. - - - Golden Buck II - - This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips. - - - The Venerable Yorkshire Buck - - Spread 1/2-inch slices of bread with mustard and brown in hot - oven. Then moisten each slice with 1/2 glass of ale, lay on top a - slice of cheese 1/4-inch thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of - that. Put back in oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon - crisp, and serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale. - -Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit. - - - Yale College Welsh Rabbit (MORIARTY'S) - -1 jigger of beer -1/4 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/4 teaspoon mustard -1-1/2 cups grated or shaved cheese -More beer - - Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on the - seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, moistening - from time to time with more beer, a pony or two at a time. - - When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this amount) - and serve with still more beer. - -There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, -with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in -the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but -taps a keg to drink with it. - -The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered by the use -of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is often used today -and is thought more sophisticated by some than the red cayenne of -Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish Rabbit, which is precisely the -same as our Basic Recipe No. 1. - - - Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit - -1-1/2 tablespoons butter -1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both -1-1/2 teaspoon chili powder -1 small can kidney beans, drained -1-1/2 tablespoons catsup -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire -Salt -2 cups grated cheese - - Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili powder; add - kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the cheese until melted. - - Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or crackers, - toasted and buttered. - -In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular modern ones -are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in from everywhere, -from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all kinds of quirks, down to -mixing in some dried beef, and there is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit -for reducers, made with farmer cheese and skimmed milk. - -Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the -great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and -more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following -is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, since it has had a -successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only -slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red. - - - Tomato Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -3/4 cup thin cream or evaporated milk -3/4 cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to remove seeds -A pinch of soda -3 cups grated cheese -Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne -2 eggs, lightly beaten - - Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when this - white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato sprinkled with - soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding cheese and seasonings, - and when cooked enough, stir in the eggs to make a creamy - texture, smooth as silk. Serve on buttered whole wheat or graham - bread for a change. - -Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of -bicarbonate of potash." - - - South African Tomato Rabbit - - This is the same as above, except that 1/2 teaspoon of sugar is - used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is poured over baked - pastry cut into squares and sprinkled with parsley, chopped fine, - put in the oven and served immediately. - - - Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc. (OLD BOSTON -STYLE) - -1 tablespoon butter -1 onion, minced -1 teaspoon salt -1 big pinch of pepper -2 cups cooked tomatoes -1 tablespoon sugar -3 cups grated store cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes - with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. Don't let it - boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the pan until it melts. - Then stir in egg gently and serve very hot - - - Tomato Soup Rabbit - -1 can condensed tomato soup -2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt and pepper - - Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and egg - slowly, season and serve hot. - -This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, -housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery Rabbit -if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato. - - - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1-1/2 cups cooked - tomatoes and add 1/2 cup of mashed boiled onions. - - - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy - -1 tablespoon butter -1 small onion, minced -1 small green pepper, minced -1 can tomato soup -3/4 cup milk -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten -1 jigger sherry -Crackers - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to retain its - flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until it's about 1/3 - full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over them. - - - Blushing Bunny - - This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum Tum - Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little rosier with a - lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and the paprika cooked - in from the start, of course. - -Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for dishes, like -Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak -_(Bubblum Squeakum_), and Toad in the Hole. - - - Scotch Woodcock - - Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum Tiddy, but - before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in 2 heaping - tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the buttered toast by - laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs. - - - American Woodchuck - -1-1/2 cups tomato purée -2 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -Cayenne -1 tablespoon brown sugar -Salt and pepper - - Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly melted stir - in the egg and, when almost cooked, add seasonings without ever - interrupting the stirring. Pour over hot toasted crackers or - bread. - -No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar was named -after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of the Scotch -Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with -brown sugar. - - - Running Rabbit (_as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, -First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937_) - - Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in - saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add Worcestershire - sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made toast. - -This running cony can be poured over toast like any other Rabbit, or -over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, or -served like Fondue, in the original cooking bowl or pan, with the -spoon kept moving in it in one direction only and the Rabbit following -the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog -races. - - - Mexican Chilaly - -1 tablespoon butter -3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without seeds -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -3/4 teaspoon salt -Dash of cayenne -1 egg, lightly beaten -2 tablespoons canned tomato juice -Water cress - - Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp and cook - 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and stirring steadily - as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten the egg with the tomato - juice and stir in until the Rabbit is thick and velvety. - - Serve on toast and dress with water cress. - -This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in -spite of the centuries' difference in age. - - - Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit - - Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs to make it - more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve it hot over cold - slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on hot buttered toast, to - make it extra eggy. - - - Grilled Tomato Rabbit - - Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes 1/2-inch thick, season with salt, - pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot both sides with all the - butter that won't slip off. - - Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove and broil - on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the usual toast and - pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is made according to - either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.) - - Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a touch of - horseradish help. - - - Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit - - Slice 1/4-inch thick an equal number of tomato and onion rings. - Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots of butter. Heat in - moderate oven, and when almost cooked remove and broil lightly. - - On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the tomato ones - and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain Grilled Tomato recipe - above. - -For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit. - - - The Devil's Own (_a fresh tomato variant_) - -2 tablespoons butter -1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -A pinch of cayenne -A dash of tabasco sauce -2 tablespoons chili sauce -1/2 cup ale or beer -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. - Keep warm on hot platter while you make the toast and a Basic - Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put - hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot - mixture over. - - - Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded -1/4 pound dried beef, shredded -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1/4 teaspoon pepper -2 cups grated cheese - - Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until mixed well, - then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated cheese until smooth - and creamy. Serve on toast. - -No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called both dried -beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, _tasajo_ on the -other side, and _xarque_ when you get all the way down to Brazil. - - - Kansas Jack Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup cream-style corn -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in cheese - steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and season to - taste. Serve on hot buttered toast. - -Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must have been -easier to make on Baron Münchhausen's "Island of Cheese," where the -cornstalks produced loaves of bread, ready-made, instead of ears, and -were no doubt crossed with long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits -quite as miraculous. - -After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or -canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized -Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which -appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has -everything. - - - Latin-American Corn Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -1 green pepper, chopped -1 large onion, chopped -1/2 cup condensed tomato soup -3 cups grated cheese -1 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1 cup canned corn -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, cover and - cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add cheese with - seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the corn, and when - thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the egg with a little of - the liquid, stir in until thickened and then pour over hot toast - or crackers. - - - Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit - - In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced fresh - mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting over boiling - water 2 cups of grated cheese with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 - teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily and, when partially melted, stir - in a can of condensed tomato soup, previously heated. Then add - the fried mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot - toast or crackers. - - - Celery and Onion Rabbit - -1/2 cup chopped hearts of celery -1 small onion, chopped -1 tablespoon butter -1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheese -Salt and pepper - - In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, - melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir steadily. When - nearly done stir the celery and onion in gradually, until smooth - and creamy. - - Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or under the - grill. - - - Asparagus Rabbit - - Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus - tops for the celery and onion. - - - Oyster Rabbit - -2 dozen oysters and their liquor -1 teaspoon butter -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1 large pinch of salt -1 small pinch of cayenne -3 cups grated cheese - - Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm while - you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is melted add the - eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep stirring. When the - Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, drop in the warm oysters - to heat a little more, and serve on hot buttered toast. - - - Sea-food Rabbits - - _(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, abalone, - squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or crawls on the - bottom of the ocean)_ - - Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or canned - sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make according to - Oyster Rabbit recipe above. - - Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, mixed - according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit with - horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change. - - - "Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit - - The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush bouquet of - as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, cod, salmon, etc.) - as can be sardined together in the whirlpool of melted cheese in - the chafing dish. They also accent it with tidbits of sea food as - above. - - - Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried - - Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the alewife to - the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan haddie, mackerel, cod, - and so on, can be stirred in to make a basic Rabbit more tasty. - Happy combinations are hit upon in mixing leftovers of several - kinds by the cupful. So the odd old cookbook direction, "Add a - cup of fish," takes on new meaning. - - - Grilled Sardine Rabbit - - Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, boned, - halved and grilled, on buttered toast. - - Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as succulent - a grilled Rabbit. - - - Roe Rabbits - - Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other fish, grill - on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit over. Although shad - roe is esteemed the finest, there are many other sapid ones of - salmon, herring, flounder, cod, etc. - - - Plain Sardine Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in place of the - egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of sardines, skinned, - boned and flaked. - - - Anchovy Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East Indian - chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, spread toast - thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and pour the Rabbit over. - - - Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like - - Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and all of - them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a Basic Rabbit over - the fish. - - The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a thin - slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked sturgeon. - - - Smoked Cheddar Rabbit - - With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose palates crave - the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic Rabbit made with - smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, but unsmoked, Cheddar. - We use a two-year-old that Phil Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, - brings down from Canada and has specially smoked in the same - savory room where sturgeon is getting the works. So his Cheddar - absorbs the de luxe flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and - is sold for a fraction of that. - - And just in case you are fishing around for something extra - special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned Bombay ducks, - those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian fish. - - Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky Lapsang - Soochong China tea. - - - Crumby Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup stale bread crumbs - soaked with -1 cup milk -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt -Cayenne -Toasted crackers - - Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. - When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg to thicken the - mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry or buttered, for - contrast with the bread. - - Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a cup of - catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what should be a - white monkey. - - There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which extend all - the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked Rabbit and - consisting of alternate layers of stale bread crumbs and - grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate three-layer Rabbit is - moistened with eggs beaten up with milk, and seasoned with salt - and paprika. - - - Crumby Tomato Rabbit - -2 teaspoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup soft bread crumbs -1 cup tomato soup -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the tomato soup - and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring until velvety. - Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to the bread crumbs. - - - Gherkin or Irish Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup milk (or beer) -A dash of vinegar -1/2 teaspoon mustard -Salt and pepper -1/2 cup chopped gherkin pickles - - Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and seasonings. - Keep stirring until smooth, then add the pickles and serve. - -This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle. - - - Dutch Rabbit - - Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy skillet - with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a splash of beer. - - Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or ale and - pour the Rabbit over them. - - The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer and - delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead. - -Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in the use of -prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of things the hard -way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with water before every meal, -while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do. - - - Pumpernickel Rabbit - - This German deviation is made exactly the same as the Dutch - Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in color. - Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in heated dark beer - (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese melted in the skillet is - also stirred up with brunette beer. - -Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the two to -commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or black -pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and the Cheddar is -noted for its beery smell, there is further affinity here. An old -English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread and cheese are the two -targets against death." - -By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been coined when -Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. Contemptuously he -spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "_Bon -pour Nicole_" in French. - - - Gruyère Welsh Rabbit _au gratin_ - - Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them lightly, - lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching slice of - imported Gruyère 3/8-inch thick. Pepper to taste and cover with - bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 minutes and rush to the ultimate - consumer. - -To our American ears anything _au gratin_ suggests "with cheese," so -this Rabbit _au gratin_ may sound redundant. To a Frenchman, however, -it means a dish covered with bread crumbs. - - - Swiss Cheese Rabbit - -1/2 cup white wine, preferably Neufchâtel -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1/2 saltspoon paprika -2 egg yolks - - Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until it melts, - then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at least 3 more minutes - until smooth. - - - Sherry Rabbit - -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk -1/2 cup sherry -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -A dash of paprika - - Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and - when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until - almost all of the cheese is melted, then add sherry. When smooth - and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and - after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color. - - - Spanish Sherry Rabbit - -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -1 bouillon cube, mashed -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 cups milk -1-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 jigger sherry - - Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in the - cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 minutes, and when - well-blended stir in the sherry and serve on hot, buttered toast. - - - Pink Poodle - -2 tablespoons butter -1 tablespoon chopped onion -1 tablespoon flour -1 jigger California claret -1 cup cream of tomato soup -A pinch of soda -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 teaspoon paprika -A dash of powdered cloves -3 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in flour, - wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir in cheese - slowly until melted and finish off by thickening with the egg and - stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve on crisp, buttered toast - with a dry red wine. - -Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss ones with -Gruyère in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly drunk with anything from -a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But for most of us, a deep draught -of beer or ale goes best with an even deeper draught of the mellow -scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow. - - - Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit - -1/8 pound butter -2 cups grated Gruyère -4 eggs, well-beaten -Salt -Pepper -Mustard - - Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, stirring - steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. Season and pour - over dry toast. - -This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up for any -lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the sweets to finish -a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries. - - - Cream Cheese Rabbit - - This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is more - scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply scramble a - half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, and - just before the finish work in the cheese until smooth and serve - on crackers--water crackers for a change. - - - Reducing Rarebit (Tomato Rarebit)[A] - -YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving. - -1/2 pound farmer cheese -2 eggs -1 level tablespoon powdered milk -1 level teaspoon baking powder -1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder -4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or -2 tomatoes, quartered -1 teaspoon caraway seeds -1/4 teaspoon garlic powder -1 teaspoon parsley flakes -1/2 head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber -1/4 cup wine vinegar -Salt and pepper to taste - -[Footnote A: (from _The Low-Calory Cookbook_ by Bernard Koten, -published by Random House)] - - Fill bottom of double boiler with water to 3/4 mark. Sprinkle - salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil over medium flame. When - upper part is hot, put in cheese, powdered milk, baking powder, - gelatin, caraway seeds and pepper and garlic powder to taste. - Mix. Break eggs into this mixture, cook over low flame, - continually stirring. Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and - continue cooking and stirring until tomatoes have been cooked - soft. Remove to lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has - been slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture. - - - Curry Rabbit - -1 tablespoon cornstarch -2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 tablespoon minced chives -2 green onions, minced -2 shallots, minced -1/4 teaspoon imported curry powder -1 tablespoon chutney sauce - - Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald the rest - over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture and stir in the - cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and chutney while - wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and sizzling enough to pour - over buttered toast. - -People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in Rabbits, just -as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables. - - - Ginger Ale Rabbit - - Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 - Rabbit of all time. - - - Buttermilk Rabbit - - Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 Rabbit. To be - consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk Cheese, instead of the - usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. This is milder. - - - Eggnog Rabbit - -2 tablespoons sweet butter -2 cups grated mellow Cheddar -1-1/3 cups eggnog -Dashes of spice to taste. - - After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog and keep - stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or not, depending on - taste and the quality of eggnog employed. - -Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the milkman in -holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been -multiplying as fast as guinea pigs. - - - All-American Succotash Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -3 cups grated cheese -1 cup creamed succotash, strained -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in the - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the creamed - succotash and season to taste. - - Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread. - - - Danish Rabbit - -1 quart warm milk -2 cups grated cheese - - Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot toast in - heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in north Denmark. - - As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to taste. - - Easy English Rabbit - - Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of cheese with - butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few spoonfuls of beer and a - bit of prepared mustard. When smoothly melted, pour over the - piping-hot, beer-soaked toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Six_ - -The Fondue - - -There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart -out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better than a collapsed -soufflé, with his definition: - - Fondue. Also, erroneously, _fondu_. A dish made of melted - cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and bread crumbs. - -Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for centuries has -been one of the world's greatest, to "a combination of melted cheese, -eggs and butter" and explains that the name comes from the French -_fondre_, meaning melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date -_Cook's Quiz_ compiled by TV culinary experts: - - A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread crumbs. - -A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety and -inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the -respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all -have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with its -creamy, nay velvety, smoothness. - -A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black pepper, -nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne pepper, the -luscious gravy of roast turkey--such little matters help to make an -authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme -Brillat-Savarin a century and a half ago brought the original -"receipt" with him and spread it around with characteristic generosity -during the two years of his exile in New York after the French -Revolution. In his monumental _Physiologie du Goût_ he records an -incident that occurred in 1795: - - Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper - Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish, - a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he - (Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to - New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are - brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite - by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion. - -As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at -Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later -had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyère three times a day, as is -the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe -just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur -Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne: - - Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of - your guests. Then take a lump of good Gruyère cheese, weighing - about a third of the eggs, and a nut of butter about half the - weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about - 1-1/2 ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. your lump - of good Gruyère would come to 1/4 pound and your butter to 1/8 - pound.) - - Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the butter - and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces. - - Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden spoon until - the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a little or no salt, - according to the age of the cheese, and a good deal of pepper, - for this is one of the special attributes of this ancient dish. - - Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some of the - best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite freely, a - marvelous effect will be beheld. - -This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the national dish -of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters in his district -laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his Fondue with a spoon instead -of the traditional fork, in the first decade of the 1700's. He tells, -too, of a Fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian -cousins in Paris "about the year 1801." - -The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the master: "By -Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long time about your -Fondues, you have continually made our mouths water. It is high time -to put a stop to all this. We will come and breakfast with you some -day and see what sort of thing this dish is." - -Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them off with -the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each one's place two -dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At each end of the table -stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully wiped, excepting the cork, which -showed distinctly that it had been in the cellar for a long while.... -After the oysters, which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, -a _terrine_ of _foie gras_, a pie with truffles, and finally the -Fondue. The different ingredients had all been assembled in a stewpan, -which was placed on the table over a chafing dish, heated with spirits -of wine. - -"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of -battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of my movements. -They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let -them have the receipt, which I promised them...." - -This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a -good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit -for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." - -This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in -what is called: - - - Neufchâtel Style - -2-1/2 cups grated imported Swiss -1-1/2 tablespoons flour -1 clove of garlic -1 cup dry white wine -Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big mouthfuls, handy - for dunking -1 jigger kirsch -Salt -Pepper -Nutmeg - - The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and mixed well - with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking and a small heated - casserole for serving. Hub the bottom and sides of the blazer - well with garlic, pour in the wine and heat to bubbling, just - under boiling. Add cheese slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir - steadily in one direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a - silver fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on - how salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, freshly - ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the kirsch, stir - steadily and invite guests to dunk their forked bread in the dish - or in a smaller preheated casserole over a low electric or - alcohol burner on the dining table. The trick is to keep the - bubbling melted cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up - and down and around and around. - -The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft -part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your bread comes off -in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine. - -The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests taking -regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese swirling. When -this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has been called in England, -is ready for eating, each in turn thrusts in his fork, sops up a -mouthful with the bread for a sponge and gives the Fondue a final -stir, to keep it always moving in the same direction. All the while -the heat beneath the dish keeps it gently bubbling. - -Such a Neufchâtel party was a favorite of King Edward VII, especially -when he was stepping out as the Prince of Wales. He was as fond of -Fondue as most of the great gourmets of his day and preferred it to -Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of the wine and kirsch that went into -it. - -At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue gets too -thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in the bottom of the -dish, this is forked out by the host and divided among the guests as a -very special dividend. - -Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the Switzerland Cheese -Association, in broadcasting this classical recipe, points out that -any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, including applejack, will be a -valid substitute for the kirsch. To us, applejack seems specially -suited, when we stop to consider our native taste that has married -apple pie to cheese since pioneer times. - -In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible consistency" and -this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese alone, although we use it -chiefly for that. - -In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish of eggs -scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very hot on toasted -bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and -served at once. The reason for this is that all baked Fondues fall as -easily and as far as Soufflés, although the latter are more noted for -this failing. There is a similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, -although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, -stuffed-shirt buildup around any Soufflé, suggesting a dressy dinner, -while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl. - -Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original French Fondue -on the Welsh Rabbit model--to turn it into a sort of French Rabbit. -Although we know that both Gruyère and Emmentaler are what we call -Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich -Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all -sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick -to Savarin's "lump of Gruyère" just as the neighboring French and -Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking -has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the -following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an -Englishman, Eric Weir: - - - Fondue à l'Italienne - - This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really - grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy, - but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but - only once in Italy. - - First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour - and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden - spoon to stand upright or almost. - - Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyère - cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with - salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add - the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding - basin. - - Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a - boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the - basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to - 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it - evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not - bubble over the mixture. - - Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When - the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and - turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep - the shape of the basin. - - Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot. - -The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then -marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being -melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted -here in: - - - All-American Fondue - -1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed -3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine -1-1/2 jiggers applejack - - After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt - together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the - applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus - of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String." - - Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and - poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the - thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to - stale ale or fresh beer. - -We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish -so eagerly, together with the great Gruyère that makes it distinctive. -They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse -and onion soup, that celestial _soupe à l'oignon_ on which snowy -showers of grated Gruyère descend. - -To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue à -l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the -world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and -show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage -Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière. - -Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, -rhapsodic writing about Gruyère and its offspring, the Fondue, -together with the puffed Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese -except Parmesan. - -Parmesan and Gruyère were praised as the two greatest culinary -cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese. - - - Parmesan Fondue - -3 tablespoons butter -1 cup grated Parmesan cheese -4 eggs, lightly beaten -Salt -Pepper - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the - eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only, - until smooth. - - Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the - ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a - fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough. - - - Sapsago Swiss Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -1/2 teaspoon salt -1-1/2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese -2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago -1/2 cup dry white wine -Pepper, black and red, freshly ground -Fingers of toast - - Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth, - fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well - melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in - small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until - velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve - over fingers of toast. - -This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated -pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the -fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, -cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added. - -At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion, -where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs -learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become -stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in -continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of -bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping -it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split -second. - -The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita -as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share -Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural -cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own, -such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a -luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk -cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and -Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants: - - 1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as - Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added - and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and - sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being - melted, though it's really recooked, - - 2. _Vacherin à la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses, - resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is - round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and - aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the - ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the - cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it - is _Tome de Montagne_. - -Here is a good assortment of Fondues: - - - Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -1 clove garlic, crushed -2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese -2 tablespoons hot water - - This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter - until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat. - Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and - velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in - one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a little water takes - the place of a lot of wine.) - - - La Fondue Comtois - - This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made with white wine. - Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish type will serve - splendidly. Also use butter, grated Gruyère, beaten eggs and that - touch of garlic. - - - Chives Fondue - -3 cups grated Swiss cheese -3 tablespoons flour -2 tablespoons butter -1 garlic clove, crushed -3 tablespoons finely chopped chives -1 cup dry white wine -Salt -Freshly ground pepper -A pinch of nutmeg -1/4 cup kirsch - - Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed - with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat - just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour - mix gradually, stirring always in one direction. Salt according - to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground - pepper and the pinch of nutmeg. - - When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in the - kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to dunking. - - Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change for dunking - purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating with the absorbent - bread, or hard rolls. - - - Tomato Fondue - -2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped -1/2 teaspoon dried sweet basil -1 clove garlic -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup dry white wine -2 cups grated Cheddar cheese -Paprika - - Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with garlic, - melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, - add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. Then add cheese, half a - cup at a time, and keep stirring until everything is smooth. - - Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit. - -Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but they're -held together with the common ingredient, tomato. - -Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale -bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make: - - Tomato Baked Fondue - -1 cup tomato juice -1 cup stale bread crumbs -1 cup grated sharp American cheese -1 tablespoon melted butter -Salt -4 eggs, separated and well beaten - - Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, - season with a little or no salt, depending on saltiness of the - cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake - about 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - -BAKED FONDUES - -Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a sensation on -these shores and is still in highest esteem among epicures, the Fondue -America took to its bosom was baked. The original recipe came from the -super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, _La Fondue -au Fromage_. - - - La Fondue au Fromage - - Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, yolks of - eggs and Gruyère, in thin slices for a change. Use red pepper - instead of black, splash in a jigger of kirsch but no white wine. - Finally fold in the egg whites and bake in a mold for 45 minutes. - -We adapted this to our national taste which had already based the -whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit with stale ale or -milk instead of white wine and Worcestershire, mustard and hot -peppers. Today we have come up with this: - - - 100% American Fondue - -2 cups scalded milk -2 cups stale bread crumbs -1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard -Salt -Dash of nutmeg -Dash of pepper -2 cups American cheese (Cheddar) -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. - Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth - mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites stiff, leaving - them slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix - and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a - moderate oven.) - -This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to our way of -thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take the place of the -wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our bland cookery. - - -OTHER FONDUES PLAIN AND FANCY, BAKED AND NOT - - - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy - -3/4 pound sharp cheese, diced -1 can condensed tomato soup -1/2 cup catsup -1/2 teaspoon mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten - - In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly by - constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or fold in the - catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on Melba toast or rusks. - -This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of -cocoa, for a change. - - - Cheese and Rice Fondue - -1 cup cooked rice -2 cups milk -4 eggs, separated and well beaten -1/2 cup grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three - - Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in cheese until - melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, season, fold in stiff - egg whites. Serve hot on toast. - - Corn and Cheese Fondue - -1 cup bread crumbs -1 large can creamed corn -1 small onion, chopped -1/2 green pepper, chopped -2 cups cottage cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 cup milk -2 eggs, well beaten - - Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered casserole set - in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in moderate oven, or until - set. - - - Cheese Fondue - -1 cup grated Cheddar -1/2 cup crumbled Roquefort -1 cup pimento cheese -3 tablespoons cream -3 tablespoons butter -1 teaspoon Worcestershire - - Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and creamy. - Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream or mayonnaise - if too stiff. - - Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted crackers. - - - Brick Fondue - -1/2 cup butter -2 cups grated Brick cheese -1/2 cup warm milk -1/2 teaspoon salt -2 eggs - - Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip in the - warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the eggs, one at a - time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls for each egg to be - beaten separately in cases like this. - - Serve over hot toast or crackers. - - Cheddar Dunk Bowl - -3/4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese -3 tablespoons cream -2/3 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire - - Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with the cream - until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful bowl for dunking in - the original style of Savarin, although this is a static - imitation of the real thing. - - All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, from celery - stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut from Bombay duck. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Seven_ - -Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - - -There isn't much difference between Cheese Soufflés, Puffs and -Ramekins. The _English Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_, the oldest, -biggest and best of such works in English, lumps Cheese Puffs and -Ramekins together, giving the same recipes for both, although it -treats each extensively under its own name when not made with cheese. - -Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese and bread -crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff again the principal -factor in Soufflé, from the French _souffler_, puff up). - - Basic Soufflé - -3 tablespoons butter or margarine -4 tablespoons flour -1-1/4 cups hot milk, scalded -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until thick and - smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the cooking and - slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat and let cool - somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a light hand and an - upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites and when evenly mixed - pour into a big, round baking dish. (Some butter it and some - don't.) To make sure the top will be even when baked, run a spoon - or knife around the surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the - dish, before baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high - and beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the Soufflé may - fall. The baking takes up to an hour and the egg whites shouldn't - be beaten so stiff they are hard to fold in and contain no air to - expand and puff up the dish. - -To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, -nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, especially in England. - -While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a close -second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all three of these -together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes -below. - - - Parmesan Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small modifications in - the ingredients: - -1 full cup of grated Parmesan -1 extra egg in place of the 1/2 cup of Cheddar cheese -A little more butter -Black pepper, not cayenne - - - Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight changes: - -1-1/4 cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the Cheddar cheese -Nutmeg in place of the cayenne - - - Parmesan-Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these little differences: - -1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan in place of -the Cheddar cheese -1/4 teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning. - -Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a -grand dinner. - - - Cheese-Corn Soufflé - - Make as Basic Soufflé, substituting for the scalded milk 1 cup of - sieved and strained juice from cream-style canned corn. - - - Cheese-Spinach Soufflé - - Sauté 1-1/2 cups of finely chopped, drained spinach in butter - with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and then whip it until light - and fluffy. Mix well into the white sauce of the Basic Soufflé - before adding the cheese and following the rest of the recipe. - - - Cheese-Tomato Soufflé - - Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk. - - - Cheese-Sea-food Soufflé - - Add 1-1/2 cups finely chopped or ground lobster, crab, shrimp, - other sea food or mixture thereof, with any preferred seasoning - added. - - - Cheese-Mushroom Soufflé - -1-1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar -1 cup cream of mushroom soup -Paprika, to taste -Salt -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon -2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds - - Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese gradually - and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken the sauce with - egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and finally fold in the - whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds and bake until golden - brown and puffed high (about 1 hour). - - - Cheese-Potato Soufflé (Potato Puff) - -6 potatoes -2 onions -1 tablespoon butter or margarine -1 cup hot milk -3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of pepper -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese - - Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put through a - ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except the egg whites - and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour - into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup of Cheddar on - top and bake in moderate oven about 1/2 hour, until golden-brown - and well puffed. Serve instantly. - - Variations of this popular Soufflé leave out the onion and - simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Sometimes 1 - tablespoon of catsup and another of minced parsley is added to - the mixture. Or onion juice alone, to take the place of the - cooked onions--about a tablespoon, full or scant. - -The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or Soufflé, are inclined -to make it extra peppery, as they do most of their Cheese Soufflés, -with not only "a dust of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be -stood on the face of a sixpence." - - - Cheese Fritter Soufflés - - These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crêpes suzette. - - -PUFFS - - - Three-in-One Puffs - -1 cup grated Swiss -1 cup grated Parmesan -1 cup cream cheese -5 eggs, lightly beaten -salt and pepper - - Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten eggs, - splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly incorporated, put in - ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort of little mold of any - shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 minutes, until richly browned. - -Such miniature Soufflés serve as liaison officers for this entire -section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the -French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. -These may be paper boxes, usually round, earthenware, china, Pyrex, -of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs. - -More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin -dishes, as follows: - - - Fried Puffs - -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/2 cup grated cheese -1 tablespoon flour -Salt -Paprika - - Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and seasonings. - When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, roll in crumbs and - fry. - - - Roquefort Puffs - -1/8 pound genuine French Roquefort -1 egg white, beaten stiff -8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds - - Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on crackers and - bake 15 minutes in slow oven. - -The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes may give -the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, but such is not -the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and left moist and -glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad droop to them that shows -there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in -cooking. - - - Parmesan Puffs - - Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal - parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a score or - more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes - till they puff up golden-brown. - - Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, second best, - from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and Italian settlers - get together on excellent Parmesan and Romano. Never buy Parmesan - already grated; it quickly loses its flavor. - - - Breakfast Puffs - -1 cup flour -1 cup milk -1/4 cup finely grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt - - Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill ramekins or - cups half full; then bake in quick oven until they are puffing - over the top and golden-brown. - - - Danish Fondue Puffs - -1 stale roll -1/2 cup boiling hot milk -Salt -Pepper -2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese -4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -4 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with cheese - and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the egg whites - and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and slowly bake - until puffed up and golden-brown. - - - New England Cheese Puffs - -1 cup sifted flour -1 teaspoon baking powder -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika -1/4 teaspoon dry mustard -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -1/2 cup milk -1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese -2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry - - Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. - Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold in the egg - whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big spoon into hot - deep fat and cook until well browned. - - Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also used, and - either of these makes a snappier puff, especially tasty when - served with soup. - - A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang. - - - Cream Cheese Puffs - -1/2 pound cream cheese -1 cup milk -4 eggs, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard - - Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from heat and add - milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well blended, then pour into - custard cups, ramekins or any other individual baking dishes that - are attractive enough to serve the puffs in. - - -RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - - -Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be collected -like snuff bottles. - -Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the individual -dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese Puff, this is -also _au gratin_ when topped with both cheese and browned bread -crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's license the name is also applied to -any kind of cake containing cheese and cooked in the identifying -one-portion ramekin. It is used chiefly in the plural, however, -together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken -Ramekins" and: - - - Cheese Ramekins I - -2 eggs -2 tablespoons flour -1/8 pound butter, melted -1/8 pound grated cheese - - Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes. - - - Cheese Ramekins II - -3 tablespoons melted butter -1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper -3/4 cup bread crumbs -1/2 cup grated cheese -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1-1/2 cups milk - - Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs into the - milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in buttered - ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. Serve piping hot, - for like Soufflés and all associated Puffs, the hot air will puff - out of them quickly; then they will sink and be inedible. - - -TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES, STILL GOING STRONG - - - Cheese Ramekins III - - Grate 1/2 pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a dozen small - paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing paper like Soufflé - cases. Put a saucepan containing 1/2 pint of water over the fire, - add 2 tablespoons of butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 - heaping tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the grated - cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, and let it - partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks from the whites - of three eggs, and beat them until the yolks foam and the whites - make a stiff froth. Put the mixture at once into the buttered - paper cases, only half-filling them (since they rise very high - while being baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a - moderate oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are - done, put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot. - -The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, -Gruyère. But because the early English also adopted Italian Parmesan, -that followed as a close second, and remains there today. - -Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this second -oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and Cheshire -"'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. Gloucester has been -called "a glorified Cheshire" and the latter has long been known as a -peculiarly rich and colorful elder brother of Cheddar, described in -Kenelme Digby's _Closet Open'd_ as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted -cheese." - - - Cheese Ramekins IV - - Scrape fine 1/4 pound of Gloucester cheese and 1/4 pound of - Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese in a mortar with the - yolks of 4 eggs, 1/4 pound of fresh butter, and the crumbs of a - French roll boiled in cream until soft. When all this is well - mixed and pounded to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. - Should the paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may - be added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served very hot. - -Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not easily come -by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the -States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of -our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or -half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about -it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three -different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect. - - - Ramequins à la Parisienne - -2 cups milk -1 cup cream -1 ounce salt butter -1 tablespoon flour -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -Coarsely ground pepper -An atom of nutmeg -A _soupçon_ of garlic -A light touch of powdered sugar -8 eggs, separated - - Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and - stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a - little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and - stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well - beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed, - fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have - a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of - paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to - allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until - golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes). - - - Le Ramequin Morézien - - This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comté is described as "a - porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast; - thickened with minced Gruyère and served very hot." - -Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs -usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In -Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les -Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyère and eggs. - - - Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins - -1/4 pound Swiss cheese -1/4 pound Roquefort cheese -1/2 pound butter -8 eggs, separated -4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed -1/2 cup cream - - The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the - rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are - folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part - full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served - instantaneously, lest they fall. - - Puff Paste Ramekins - - Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine - tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyère - and/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity - than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the - favorite for these. - - Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more - cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy - shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg - yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine. - - - Frying Pan Ramekins - - Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with - 1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff - but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of - bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 - minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander. - -There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds -that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other -that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special -cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their -creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or -Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay, -carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin. - - - Casserole Ramekin - - Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep - casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese, - with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with - 2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg! - Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eight_ - -Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc. - - -No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them -with pizza. - - - Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily - -DOUGH - -1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water -2 cups sifted flour -1 teaspoon salt -2 tablespoons olive oil - - Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, - cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice - the size. - -TOMATO PASTE - -3 tablespoons olive oil -2 large onions, sliced thin -1 can Italian tomato paste -8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small -1/2 teaspoon oregano -Salt -Crushed chili pepper -2-1/2 cups water - - In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato - paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over - and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is - done. - -CHEESE - -1/2 cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino, depending -on your pocketbook - - Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or reasonable - substitute, and grease well before spreading the well-raised - dough 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Poke your finger tips haphazardly - into the dough to make marks that will catch the sauce when you - pour it on generously. Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese - and bake in hot oven 1/2 hour, then 1/4 hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any other pie - and serve. - -The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to regular -apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular. - - - Miniature Pizzas - - Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with garlic or - onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with tomato sauce and a - slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, oregano and grated Parmesan, - and heat 8 minutes. - - - Italian-Swiss Scallopini - -1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets -1/2 cup flour -1/2 cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed -1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water -Butter -Salt -Paprika - - Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with cheese, - quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes till tender. - Dust with paprika and salt. - - - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles - -1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles -1-1/2 cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat -1/2 pound Ricotta or cottage cheese -1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar -1/4 pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino -Salt -Pepper, preferably crushed red pods -A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute - - Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly boiling - salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. Pour 1/2 cup - of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, cover with about 1/2 of - the noodles, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a - layer of Mozzarella and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this - fashion, alternating layers and seasoning each, ending with a - final spread of sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in - moderate oven, about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, - with canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste. - - - Little Hats, Cappelletti - - Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived - out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little Italy macaroni shop. - These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors - with only two cheeses. - - Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each - very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal - amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. - - With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored - fillings: - - Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and Ricotta Chicken - and Ricotta - - Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the same number - of each different kind. Pinch edges tight together to keep the - stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 minutes in chicken broth - (or salted water, if you must). - - Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and shape of - ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot plates, with - plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable substitute. If we - count this final seasoning as an ingredient, this makes three - cheeses, so that each of half a dozen taste buds can be getting - individual sensations without letting the others know what it's - doing. - - - Dauphiny Ravioli - - This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of pastry - follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat cheese and - Gruyère melted with butter and minced parsley and boiled in - chicken broth. - - - Italian Fritters - -1/4 cup flour -2 tablespoons sugar -1/4 pound fresh Ricotta -2 eggs, beaten -1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella -Rind of 1/2 lemon, grated -3 tablespoons brandy -Salt - - Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 - hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold its shape - while cooking. - - Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the bowl of a - long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in boiling hot oil. - Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at once with powdered sugar. - - To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several contrasting - cheeses in this batter. - - - Italian Asparagus and Cheese - - This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one and the - same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation layer of - grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a layer of tender - parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a layer of grated - Gruyère with a bit of butter, and another of asparagus. From here - you can go as far as you like with varied layers of melting - cheeses alternating with asparagus, until you come to the top, - where you add two more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered - Parmesan with Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent. - - - Garlic on Cheese - - For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by removing skins - and frying out the fierce pungence in smoking olive oil. They - skip in the hot pan like Mexican jumping beans. Toast one side of - a thickish slice of bread, put this side down on a grilling pan, - cover it with a slice of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyère, of - about the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into the - cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt lightly and - dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob Brown in Merle - Armitage's collection _Fit for a King_.) - -Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them toes. It was -cheese and garlic together that inspired Shakespeare to Hotspur's -declaration in _King Henry IV_: - - I had rather live - With cheese and garlic in a windmill, far, - Than feed on cates and have him talk to me - In any summer-house in Christendom. - -Some people can take a mere _soupçon_ of the stuff, while others can -down it by the soup spoon, so we feel it necessary in reprinting our -recipe to point to the warning of another early English writer: -"Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young -men." - - - Blintzes - - This snow white member of the crêpes suzette sorority is the most - popular deb in New York's fancy cheese dishes set. Almost unknown - here a decade or two ago, it has joined blinis, kreplach and - cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers. - -2 eggs -1 cup water -1 cup sifted flour -Salt -Cooking oil -1/2 pound cottage cheese -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups sour cream - - Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour and salt - to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and make little - pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. Cook the cakes over - low heat and on one side only. Slide each cake off on a white - cloth, with the cooked side down. While these are cooling make - the blintz-filling by beating together the second egg, cottage - cheese and butter. Spread each pancake thickly with the mixture - and roll or make into little pockets or envelopes with the end - tucked in to hold the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and - serve at once with sufficient sour cream to smother them. - - - Vatroushki - - Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and - blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be made was - vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief - difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of - the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese - filling, and the sour cream, 1/2 cup, is mixed into this instead - of being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix are - made by pinching the edges of the dough together. The tops are - brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk oven. - - - Cottage Cheese Pancakes - -1 cup prepared pancake -4 tablespoons top milk or light cream -1 teaspoon salt -4 eggs, well beaten -1 tablespoon sugar -2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer - - Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth. - - - Cheese Waffles - -2 cups prepared waffle flour -3 egg yolks, lightly beaten -1/4 cup melted butter -3/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar -3 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 ingredients and - fold in egg whites last. - -Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat -quickly and serve. - - - Napkin Dumpling - -1 pound cottage cheese -1/8 pound butter, softened -3 eggs, beaten -3/4 cup Farina -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cinnamon and brown sugar - - Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to - form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold water and tie the - ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling - water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown - sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and - other succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as a - meal in itself. - - -BUTTER AND CHEESE - - - Where fish is scant - And fruit of trees, - Supply that want - With butter and cheese. - - Thomas Tusser in - _The Last Remedy_ - -Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for cheese butter. -Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or less matches Turkey's -Durak, of which butter is an indispensable ingredient, and French -Cancoillote is based on sour milk simmered with butter. - -The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter -substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about -whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in -Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process -of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats, -and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter. - - -BUTTERMILK CHEESE - - -The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu -proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he -dies." - -Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy -manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, -even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato -salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment -packages. - -German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes -make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a -novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE - - -In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It -is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting -milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on -the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is -drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually -salted. - -The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes -from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute: - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 1_ - -Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will -immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little -cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for -serving. - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 2_ - -A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and -buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into -a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste -and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency, -and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange. - - -CREAM CHEESE - - -In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese: - -1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained. -2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire. -3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged -in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, as -in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese. - -American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being named from -then: region or established brands owned by Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, -Shefford, etc. - -Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to make than -cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it is not a cheese -but the dried curd of milk and is often called virginal. Fresh milk is -simply strained through muslin in a perforated box through which the -whey and extra moisture drains away for three or four days, leaving a -residue as firm as fresh butter. - -In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a popular -assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these ingredients and -names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, Pimiento, Olive and -Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, Strawberry, and Triple Decker -of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in layers. - -In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. Finally, to -come to France, la Foncée or Fromage de Pau, a cream also known around -the world as Crême d'Isigny, Double Crême, Fromage à la Crême de Gien, -Pots de Crême St. Gervais, etc. etc. - -The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with Chevretons -du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that adds _à la crême_ to -their already glorified names. - -The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more of a -dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese. - -We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. -Attempts at this have been made, both here and in England; Scottish -Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be -sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses -seem especially suitable. - - The farmer's daughter hath soft brown hair - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese) - And I met with a ballad I can't say where, - That wholly consisted of lines like these, - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese.) - -In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the ingredients -suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In England. From that year -Kettner in his _Book of the Table_ quotes this recipe: - - Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well together; - and make small coffins (that is, cases of pastry), and do it (put - it) therein; and do (put) thereto sugar and good powders. Or take - good fat cheese and eggs and make them of divers colours, green, - red or yellow, and bake them or serve them forth. - -This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of honor that -caused Kettner to wax poetic with: - - At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a countless - number of these maids--light and airy as the "airy, fairy - Lilian." What more can the finest poetry achieve in quickening - the things of earth into tokens and foretastes of heaven, with - glimpses of higher life and ethereal worlds. - - -CHEESECAKES - - -_Coronation Cheese Cake_ - - -The _Oxford Dictionary_ defines cheese cake as a "tartlet filled with -sweet curds, etc." This shows that the cheese is the main thing, and -the and-so-forth just a matter of taste. We are delighted to record -that the Lord Mayor of London picked traditional cheese tarts, the -maids of honor mentioned earlier in this section, as the Coronation -dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city -luncheon in Guildhall This is most fitting, since these tarts were -named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen -Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand -pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual cheese cake -ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of cheese, but what made the -subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, lemon, orange-flower water, or all -four? - -More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese cake, the -Greeks had a word for it--several in fact: Apician Cheese Cake, -Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. Then the Romans took it over -and we read from an epistle of the period: - - Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have been - arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese cakes - dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such as that of - Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.) - -Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was named for it -before Christ was born, at a time when cheese cakes were widely known -as "dainty food for mortal man." - -Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of which the -ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most popular in New York. -But buyers delight in every sort, including the one hundred percent -American type called cheese pies. - -Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese cakes and -cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are made piquant with -pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of ours made from -popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve: - - - Pineapple Cheese Cake - -2-1/2 pounds sieved pot cheese -1-inch piece vanilla bean -1/4 pound sweet butter, melted -1/2 small box graham crackers, crushed fine -4 eggs -2 cups sugar -1 small can crushed pineapple, drained -2 cups milk -1/3 cup flour - - In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and - pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square Pyrex pan and - put in the graham-cracker dust to make a crust. Cover this evenly - with the pineapple and pour in the cheese-custard mixture. Bake I - hour in a "quiet" oven, as the English used to say for a moderate - one, and when done set aside for 12 hours before eating. - -Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better buy your -cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones cost a dime a -bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American ones in Manhattan. -Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at about five dollars a cake. -Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries. - - - Cheese Custard - -4 eggs, slightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 cup milk -A dash of pepper or paprika -3 tablespoons melted butter -A few drops of onion juice, if desired -4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported) - - Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake - until brown. - - - Open-faced Cheese Pie - -3 eggs -1 cup sugar -2 pounds soft smearcase - - Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake without - any upper crust. - - -The Apple-pie Affinity - -Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even -as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has cheese for a sidekick, -according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and -flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was -Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are -common, such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, -pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hablé, and even a green -dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie. - -Apple pie _au gratin_, thickly grated over with Parmesan, Caciocavallo -or Sapsago, is something special when served with black coffee. Cider, -too, or applejack, is a natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple -with its cheese. - - - Apple Pie Adorned - - Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing cream - cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of double cream - beaten thick and salted a little. Put the mixture in a pastry - tube and decorate top of pie in fanciful fashion. - - - Apple Pie á la Cheese - - Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any fruit or - berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 minutes. - - - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie - - In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and sprinkle with - sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and bake golden-brown. - - - Flan au Fromage - - To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, simply mix - coarsely grated Gruyère with beaten egg, fill the tart cases and - bake. - - For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, work in - tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 parts of - flour. - - - Christmas Cake Sandwiches - - A traditional Christmas carol begs for: - - A little bit of spice cake - A little bit of cheese, - A glass of cold water, - A penny, if you please. - - For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake in slices - and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese between. - - To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, serve - apple pie with cheese and applejack. - - - Angelic Camembert - -1 ripe Camembert, imported -1 cup Anjou dry white wine -1/2 pound sweet butter, softened -2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs - - Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and when its - creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, round covered - dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no bouquet or aroma can - possibly escape, and let stand overnight. - - When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, dry the - cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an angelic paste. - Reshape in original Camembert form, dust thickly with the crumbs - and there you are. - -Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since some of -them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken straight. - -Although A. W. Fulton's observation in _For Men Only_ is going out of -date, it is none the less amusing: - - In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only met one - woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her seemed to me so - deserving of reward that I did not hesitate to acquire her hand - in marriage. - -Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like -cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between -gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from -early Italian landowners: - - _Ai contadini non far sapere - Quanta è buono it cacio con le pere_. - Don't let the peasants know - How good are cheese and pears. - -Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of Taleggio, -Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a good dinner, with a -juicy Lombardy pear or its American equivalent, a Bartlett, let us -say. - -This celestial association of cheese and pears is further accented by -the French: - - _Entre la poire et le fromage_ - Between the pear and the cheese. - -This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, in -accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke in his -_Paroemiologia_: - - After cheese comes nothing. - -But in his _Epigrams_ Ben Jonson serves them together. - - Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will be. - -That brings us back to cheese and pippins: - - I will make an end of my dinner; there's - pippins and cheese to come. - - Shakespeare's _Merry Wives of Windsor_ - -When should the cheese be served? In England it is served before or -after the fruit, with or without the port. - -Following _The Book of Keruynge_ in modern spelling we note when it -was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, -strawberries, whortleberries (American huckleberries) and hard -cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like -Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced -banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese dessert tray to match -the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, -are figs, both fresh and preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, -kumquats, avocados, fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, -served in the scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or -pear and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. Pots -of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being -the best. - - - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola - -1/2 pound mellow Roquefort -1/4 pound sweet butter, softened -A dash cayenne -3/4 cup champagne - - With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, - moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or - less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the - demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt - gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just - plain bread. - -After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are: - -FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, -Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy) - -FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar - -FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly - -FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese - -FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval - -FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyère - -FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse - -FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost - -FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda - -FROM ENGLAND: Stilton - -FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Nine_ - -Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - - -He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet, -saluted it two centuries ago with: - - Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow. - -On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan, -"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W. -Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a -century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_ -wrote: - - I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me - back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very - kind of him. - -The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and, -for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave -us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with -a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In -America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although -Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or -cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that. - - - Potatoes au Gratin - -2 cups diced cooked potatoes -2 tablespoons grated onion -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup milk -1 egg -Salt -Pepper -More grated cheese for covering - - In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle - with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of - cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk, - egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top - everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically - American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2 - hour. - - - Eggs au Gratin - - Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any - desired number of eggs broken into a buttered baking dish. Begin - by using half of the sauce and sprinkling on a lot of grated - cheese. After the eggs are in, pour on the rest of the sauce, - cover it with grated cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of - butter, and cook until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes). - - - Tomatoes au Gratin - - Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and - sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, season - with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of - tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating - with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, - cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - - Onion Soup au Gratin - -4 or 5 onions, sliced -4 or 5 tablespoons butter -1 quart stock or canned consommé -1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes -Rounds of toasted French bread -1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese - - Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until light golden, - and pour the stock over. When heated put in a larger casserole, - add the bouillon, season to taste and heat to boiling point. Let - simmer 15 minutes and serve in deep well-heated soup plates, the - bottoms covered with rounds of toasted French bread which have - been heaped with freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the - broiler. More cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as - desired. - -At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of champagne -are often added to the bouillon. - -In the famed onion soup _au gratin_ at Les Halles in Paris, grated -Gruyère is used in place of Parmesan. They are interchangeable in this -recipe. - - -AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - - In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is made by - heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and adding finely - grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French bread toasted and - topped with more cheese and broiled golden makes the best base to - pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above. - - The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese - soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, - pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg. - - - Chicken Cheese Soup - - Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken bouillon - cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed cream of - chicken soup. Stir in 1/4 cup grated American Cheddar cheese and - season with salt, pepper, and plenty of paprika until cheese - melts. - - Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese to lima - bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or plain cheese soup - with rice. - -Imported French _marmites_ are _de rigueur_ for a real onion soup _au -gratin_, and an imported Parmesan grinder might be used for freshly -ground cheese. In preparing, it is well to remember that they are -basically only melted cheese, melted from the top down. - - -CHEESE SALADS - - When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is resting and in no hurry. - He eats the salad to prepare himself for the cheese. - - Henri Charpentier, _Life & la Henri_, - - - Green Cheese Salad Julienne - - Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of crisp - lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone cheese cut in - thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 hours in French - dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue cheese and toss - everything thoroughly, with plenty of French dressing. - - - American Cheese Salad - - Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with shredded - American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in French dressing. - - - Cheese and Nut Salad - - Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats and enough - mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little balls and serve - with fruit salads, dusting lightly with finely grated Sapsago. - - - Brie or Camembert Salad - - Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie or - Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce drenched with - French dressing and scatter shredded almonds over. (Cream cheese - will do in a pinch. If the Camembert isn't creamy enough, mash it - with some sweet cream.) - - - Three-in-One Mold - -3/4 cup cream cheese -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -1/2 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled -2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into -1/2 cup boiling water -Juice of 1 lemon -Salt -Pepper -2 cups cream, beaten stiff -1/2 cup minced chives - - Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with lemon, salt - and pepper and stir into cheese with the whipped cream. Add - chives last Put in ring mold or any mold you fancy, chill well - and slice at table to serve on lettuce with a little mayonnaise, - or plain. - - - Swiss Cheese Salad - - Dice 1/2 pound of cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Slice one onion - very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash with German mustard, - olive oil, wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and - grind in plenty of black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a - wooden spoon so you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is - drenched with the dressing. - - - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad - -Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished specially -by males on the morning after. We quote the original recipe brought -over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the writers' and artists' -colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her brother Emil's White House -Inn: - - First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported Emmentaler into - half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported French olive oil, German - mustard and Swiss white wine vinegar with salt and freshly ground - pepper in a deep soup plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper - sauce scattered in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes - with a light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising. - - The salad was ready to eat only when each and every tiny, shiny - cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been washed, oiled and - polished with the soothing mixture. - - "Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine Breakfast - Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It is the best cure - in the world for the worst hangover." - - - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad - - Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. Sprinkle with - lemon juice and spread with creamy Gorgonzola. Sluice with French - dressing made with lemon juice in place of vinegar, to help bring - out the natural banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola. - - - Cheese and Pea Salad - - Cube 1/2 pound of American Cheddar and mix with a can of peas, 1 - cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/2 cup of sour cream, - and 2 tablespoons each of minced pimientos and sweet pickles. - Serve in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped - radishes. - - - Apple and Cheese Salad - -1/2 cup cream cheese -1 cup chopped pecans -Salt and pepper -Apples, sliced 1/2-inch thick -Lettuce leaves -Creamy salad dressing - - Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple slices - standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy salad - dressing. - - - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing - - No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American favorite of - Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with French - dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar and kept in the - refrigerator to shake up on occasion and toss over lettuce or - other salads. - -Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, complete -with the picture of the sheep in red, and _garanti véritable_, the -dressing is often ruined by bad vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all -things). When bottled to sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous -spice, oils and mustard flour are used where nothing more is necessary -than the manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good -vinegar--white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent amateurs must have -their splash of Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice with salt and -pepper. This Roquefort dressing is good on all green salads, but on -endive it's something special. - - - SAUCE MORNAY - -Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary -achievement in cheese." - - Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a white sauce - (the French Sauce Béchamel) and add grated Parmesan to your - liking, stirring it in until melted and the sauce is creamy. This - can be snapped up with cayenne or minced parsley, and when used - with fish a little of the cooking broth is added. - - - PLAIN CHEESE SAUCE - -1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white sauce - - This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or hard-cooked - eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 parts of cheese to 4 - of white sauce, it is delicious on boiled cauliflower, baked - potatoes, macaroni and crackers soaked in milk. - - The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter with the - flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg yolk in with - the cheese. - -From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes: - -_Thin_: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty milk toast, -sometimes spiced with curry. - -_Medium_: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in milk. - -_Thick_: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured generously over -bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the -sauce sink in. - - - PARSLEYED CHEESE SAUCE - - This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven the - cabbage family--hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels - sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled over. - - -CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - - -Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a bounteous -cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not indispensable, -recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or overlooked or crowded -out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, -Soufflés, etc. - - -_Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks_ - -Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by pressing -through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with any seasoning or -relish. - - SUGGESTIONS: - - Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or all three, - with or without a touch of Worcestershire. - - Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce. - - Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, minced - capers, pickles, or minced ham. - - Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for your - favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. This last - is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese creamed with - sweet butter. - - All canapé butters are ideally suited to stuffing stalks. - Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed. - - A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the leafy tops - off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or anything similarly - suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but keep them in order, to - reassemble in the head after each is stuffed with a different - mixture, using any of the above, or a tangy mix of your own - concoction. - - After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, - press them together in the form of the original head, tie tight, - and chill. When ready, slice in rolls about 8-inch thick and - arrange as a salad on a bed of water cress or lettuce, moistened - with French dressing. - - - Cold Dunking - - Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be had by - moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or lemon in a - dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently liquefied, it is - liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, onions, pimiento - and/or other relish. Then a couple of tins of anchovies are - macerated and stirred in, oil and all. - - - Cheese Charlotte - - Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted slices of - bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet butter with 2 - eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of grated cheese. Bake - until golden brown in slow oven. - - - Straws - - Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, fold and - roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese each time. Chill - dough in refrigerator and cut in straw-size strips. Stiffly salt - a beaten egg yolk and glaze with that to give a salty taste. Bake - for several minutes until crisp. - - - Supa Shetgia[B] - -[Footnote B: (from _Cheese Cookery_, by Helmut Ripperger)] - - _This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known - in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one - has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how - perfectly it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, - is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned - tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased_. - - Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup - plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss - cheese. Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over - it some boiling milk. Cover the plate and let it stand for - several minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Serve - topped with browned, hot butter. Use whole nutmeg and grate it - freshly. - - -WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - - -Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from -soups to spaghetti--and indeed any vegetable--that a shaker of grated -Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, -or is served freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup -might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great -minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient -along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, -olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth. - -Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the -Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's served up as a -separate tidbit with the meats. - -Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as -the French are wont to use more wine in cooking. - - - Pfeffernüsse and Caraway - -The gingery little "pepper nuts," _pfeffernüsse_, imported from -Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best -accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish -of caraway. - - - Diablotins - -Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated -cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution. - - -CHEESE OMELETS - - - Cheddar Omelet - - Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun - to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be - called a Wild Omelet. - Cook as usual. Fold and serve. - - - Parmesan Omelet (mild) - - Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in - place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar. - - - Parmesan Omelet (full flavored) - - As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows: - Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the - beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the - omelet begins to set. - - - A Meal-in-One Omelet - - Fry 1/2 dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup - of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to equal crispness. - Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1-1/2 - tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 - tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste. - - - Tomato and - - Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh tomato and - dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put under broiler - until cheese melts to a golden brown. - - - Omelet with Cheese Sauce - - Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when finished, - cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white sauce in which 1/4 - pound of shredded cheese has been melted, and mixed well with 1/2 - cup cooked, diced celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced. - -The French use grated Gruyère for this with all sorts of sauces, such -as the _Savoyar de Savoie_, with potatoes, chervil, tarragon and -cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning -with a salamander. - - - Spanish Flan--Quesillo - -FOR THE CARAMEL: -1/2 cup sugar -4 tablespoons water - -FOR THE FLAN: -4 eggs, beaten separately -2 cups hot milk -1/2 cup sugar -Salt - - Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour it into - a baking mold. - - Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven about - 3/4 hour. - - - Italian Fritto Misto - - The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with - whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat - are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and - giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato, - and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk - of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture. - - - Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese) - - Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very - thin and cut in 2-inch squares. - - Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted - butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless - currents. - - Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to - make little pockets. - - Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil - steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst - open. - - Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a - sprinkling of bread crumbs. - - This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes. - - - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes - - Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some - old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked - bacon. - - -If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a - - Sautéed Swiss Sandwich - - Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly - buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it - with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry - on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved - on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and - a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this - until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter - made strong men cry for it. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Ten_ - -Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - - -In America cheese got its start in country stores in our -cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up -the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap -cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the -flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too -palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo -the cat off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be -beat today. - -At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was -our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont -Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. -When Orton heard we were writing this book, he sent samples from the -store his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. Together -with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese and the Sage came a -handy handmade Cracker Basket, all wicker, ten crackers long and just -one double cracker wide. A snug little casket for those puffy, -old-time, two-in-one soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the -taste of the accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's -made to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on one -half and another on t'other, or sandwich them between. - -Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the corner -saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never faltered till -Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was soon pepped up as -saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, bowls of pickles, -peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with plenty of mustard, -pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese -forever together, as in the free-lunch ditty of that great day: - - I am an Irish hunter; - I am, I ain't. - I do not hunt for deer - But beer. - Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag. - - I do not hunt for fleas - But cheese. - Oh, Adolph, bring the free lunch. - -It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to coast. In -every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger--manly -cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden -yellow, tangy mellow, always cut in cubes. Cheese takes the cube form -as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon. - -On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely cubes, free -Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to lead the tired -businessman in by the nose; or a smear of Canadian Snappy out of a -pure white porcelain pot in the classy places, on a Bent's water -biscuit. - - -SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - -Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of which there -is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us consume most of our -country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar and Swiss. To attempt to -classify and describe all of these would be impossible, so we will -content ourselves by picking a few of the cold and hot, the plain and -the fancy, the familiar and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum -up the situation. - - -A Alpine Club Sandwich - - Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick slice of - imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, and the usual - club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of chicken or turkey, - tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf. - - -B Boston Beany, Open-face - - Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it generously - with hot baked beans and a thick layer of shredded Cheddar. Top - with bacon and put under a slow broiler until cheese melts and - the bacon crisps. - - -C Cheeseburgers - - Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, - using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a nice slice - of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the - hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and - begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, - toasted sandwich buns. - - -D Deviled Rye - - Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot oven. Cool - until crisp again. Then spread thickly with cream cheese, - bedeviled with catsup, paprika or pimiento. - - -E Egg, Open-faced - - Sauté minced small onion and small green pepper in 2 tablespoons - of butter and make a sauce by cooking with a cup of canned - tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. Fry 4 eggs and put one - in the center of each of 4 pieces of hot toast spread with the - red sauce. Sprinkle each generously with grated Cheddar, broil - until melted and serve with crisp bacon. - - -F French-fried Swiss - - Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported Gruyère, - soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry slowly till cheese melts - and the sandwich is nicely browned. This is a specialty of - Franche-Comté. - - -G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar - - Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them on both - sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked chicken, 1/2 - slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a sprinkling of minced ham. - Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut in half and dip thoroughly in a - mixture of egg and milk. Grill golden on both sides and serve - with lengthwise slices of dill pickle. - - -H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced - - Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a layer of - mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then one of Swiss - cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped with mustard and a - sowing of capers. - - -I International Sandwich - - Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, cover soft, - untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread lightly with mustard, - top that with a wheel of Bermuda onion and 1 or 2 slices of - Italian-type tomato. Season with cayenne and salt, dot with - butter, cover with Brazil nuts and brown under the broiler. - - -J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises - - Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture of onion - browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with grated Gruyère. - Simmer until cheese melts, and serve. - - -K Kümmelkäse - - If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish slab of - Milwaukee Kümmelkäse, which translates caraway cheese. For good - measure sprinkle caraway seeds on top, or serve them in a saucer - on the side. Then dash on a splash of kümmel, the caraway liqueur - that's best when imported. - - -L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup - - Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French dressing for - 1/2 hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft - Limburger, top with onion and you will have something - super-duper--if you like Limburger. - - When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has - quite another character and flavor, so true Limburger addicts - make one of each and take alternate bites for the thrill of - contrast. - - -M Meringue, Open-faced (from the Browns' _10,000 Snacks_) - - Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 slice of - bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter on untoasted - side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over butter, and the yolk - of an egg in the center. Beat egg white stiff with a few grains - of salt and pile lightly on top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons - of grated cheese over that and bake in moderate oven until the - egg white is firm and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown. - - -N Neufchâtel and Honey - - We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with thin, - decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, then with - Neufchâtel topped with some fine honey--Mount Hymettus, if - possible. - - Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the Neufchâtel, but - nothing will take the place of the honey to make this heavenly - sandwich that must have been the original ambrosia. - - -O Oskar's Ham-Cam - - Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 - superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, - perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, - open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost - any one-way slice you desire. He uses as many contrasting kinds - of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh - and whipped. The Ham-Cam base involves "a juicy, tender slice of - freshly boiled, mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on - the ham as thick as velvet. - - The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver - paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and - _rémoulade_," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," - "a slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira jelly, - with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to - Camembert on ham. - - -P Pickled Camembert - - Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe - imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't summer). Make a - mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and - spread it on. Top this with a thin slice of white bread for - pleasing contrast with the black. - - -Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich - - On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, crusty - white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese - made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." This last translates - back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the - world--on a par with fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy - cheese lightly with imported capers, and you'll say it's - scrumptious. - - -R Roquefort Nut - - Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine - Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian - paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes. Finish it off - with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof. - - -S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich - - Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or - a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with - sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese. - - Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New - York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, - is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king - of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as - above. - - Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with - cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, - while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of - this world. We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong - China tea. - - -T Tangy Sandwich - - On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay thinly - sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef with - horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old chopped - chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on every cheese - sandwich, try different kinds for a change: sharp English freshly - mixed by your own hand out of the tin of powder, or Dijon for a - French touch. - - -U Unusual Sandwich--of Flowers, Hay and Clover - - On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a layer of - equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with petals of rose, - marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with French Fromage de foin. - This French hay cheese gets its name from being ripened on hay - and holds its new-mown scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers - (the smaller they are, the better), with a little of the luscious - juice, and dust lightly with Sapsago. - - -V Vegetarian Sandwich - - Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store - cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with chopped - chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms - that suits your fancy. - - -W Witch's Sandwich - - Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin slice of - imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop or two of - tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled ham and press it - together with the cheese between the two bread slices, put in a - hot oven and serve piping hot with a handful of - "moonstones"--those outsize pearl onions. - - -X Xochomilco Sandwich - - In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a drop to be - had that's native to the festive, floating gardens near Mexico - City. For there, instead of the cow, a sort of century plant - gives milky white _pulque_, the fermented juice of this - cactuslike desert plant. With this goes a vegetable cheese curded - by its own vegetable rennet. It's called tuna cheese, made from - the milky juice of the prickly pear that grows on yet another - cactuslike plant of the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes - teams up in arid lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced - into a tortilla sandwich. The milky _pulque_ of Xochomilco goes - as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese sandwich. - - - Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich - - Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with cream - cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt and a touch - of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole wheat bread. - - -Z Zebra - - Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own - Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those oft-photoed skins - in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various - white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern. - -For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese -sandwiches. - - - Toasted Cheese Sandwich - - Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and sandwich - between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp cheese, egg - yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with stiffly beaten - egg white folded in last to make a light filling. Fry the - buttered sandwich in more butter until well melted and nicely - gilded. - -This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, -who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the -form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh -Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to -further sandwich the two. - -Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to -this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the -equally Dutch Pennsylvanians. - -England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with -such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. -Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's -quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew. - - - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich - -1 pound grated Cheddar -1 egg, well beaten -1/2 cup milk -1 tablespoon butter - - Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eleven_ - -"Fit for Drink" - - - A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for - drink. - - -Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according -to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk -cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and -no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine -to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and -body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. -Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory. - -While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, -Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of -gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on -the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon -and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But -professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They -may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of -Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest it give the wine a -spurious nobility. - -And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest affinity for it. -Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie -and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rosé_. Heavenly -marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both -Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, -Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be -made for each other, as do Château Margaux and Camembert. - -A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in -the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valençay, -Vendôme and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates -with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most -commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French -cheeses. - -Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being -Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French -Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine from just across the -border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben -(grape cheese), named from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged. - -One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited -to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape -and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas -(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly -suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian -Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The -affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven. - -Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with -wines, according to these matches registered by André Simon in _The -Art of Good Living:_ - -Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port -White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry -Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port -Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - -To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of -Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer. - -The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and -liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent -imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit -Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks. - -While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, -we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we -can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig -and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or -Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin -Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately. - -Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kümmel -with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of -caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper -berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage -Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. -One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee -laced with gin. - -French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not only coffee and -rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then -there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with -brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy. - -In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In -Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and -the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional -Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and -hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge -Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own -Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque. - -The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. -Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go -well together. - -Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some -cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than -vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Twelve_ - -Lazy Lou - - -Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his -heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere -in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. -Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped -back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To -cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and -its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there -came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread." - -The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are -handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people -even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of -their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them. - -My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in -1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with -profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma -Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, -keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and -naturalized Limburgers. - -At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep -their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One -booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation: - - CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM - WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD - -These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any -amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with -German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or -not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? -How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? -Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought. - -Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese -board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the -teams against each other. - - The All-American Champs - -NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ -VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER - CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE - MINNESOTA BLUE - BRICK - TILLAMOOK - - VS. - - The European Giants - -PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN -OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER -YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ - ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE -GERMAN MÜNSTER GREEK FETA - HABLÉ - -The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and -distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian -board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine -with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates -representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland. - -For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the -banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal -Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all -three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky -slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, -about which more later. - -We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant -roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou -will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English -have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, -herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make -do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With -our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily -dispense with the mere dinner itself. - -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. - -True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American -products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are -available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party -will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun. - -Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One -may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; -another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from -Colombia's mountain city, Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic -leaves of _Frailejón Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet -English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with -marigolds; another a tube of South American Kräuterkäse. - -Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of -those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you -want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille -condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty -shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of -different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, -in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green -Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored." - -And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling -cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap -Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are -handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper -pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, -both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of -curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint -leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh -tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black -olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats. - -Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my -wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes -nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting -party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to -twirl the load. - -The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and -the lower one carried the rest, as follows: - - ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR - (rum flavored) - - FRENCH MÜNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH - CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT - - SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA - - ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN - PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST - - HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER - -The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and -Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, -scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly -Britishers fingers were best. - -The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our -best domestic "bar cheese" of old. - -The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented -flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's -Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was -strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price. - -Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy -English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in -waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But -there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to -much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally. - -The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than -most German Münster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by -the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly -matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with -many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones -sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted -the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A -plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, -stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American -pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and -tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they -are not Roquefort. - -The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it has been made in the -Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive -of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted -fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own -seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is -mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like -sage-green color. - -Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately rich, and nutty -enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it -at the source. - -As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes -it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring -flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own -and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another -American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a -pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and -with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet. - -The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as -fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so -much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the -crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise. - -After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on -its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously -ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about -them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load. - -The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked -ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of -its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for -it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a -ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so -we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer -some other day, when it might be more appetizing. - -We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost -that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the -same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our -piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, -undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned -out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a -Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert -about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail -on his little finger. - -"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than -a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you -take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure -for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in -Worcestershire." - -That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, -_instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with -anything less than a blowtorch. - -To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian -Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing -it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with -sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. -We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in -the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and -chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then -spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. -_That's_ Liptauer Garniert. - - - - -[Illustration: No. 4 Cheese Inc.] - -_Appendix_ - -The A-B-Z of Cheese - -_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any -further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese -is made of cow's milk._ - - -A - -Aberdeen -_Scotland_ - -Soft; creamy mellow. - -Abertam -_Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_) - -Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own. - -Absinthe _see_ Petafina. - -Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel. - -Aettekees -_Belgium_ - -November to May--winter-made and eaten. - -Affiné, Carré _see_ Ancien Impérial. - -Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella. - -After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8. - -Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated. - -Aiguilles, Fromage d' -_Alpine France_ - -Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the -district where it is made. - -Aizy, Cendrée d' _see_ Cendrée. - -Ajacilo, Ajaccio -_Corsica_ - -Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French -Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. - -à la Crème _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons. - -à la Main _see_ Vacherin. - -à la Pie _see_ Fromage. - -à la Rachette _see_ Bagnes. - -Albini -_Northern Italy_ - -Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, -pleasant-tasting table cheese. - -Albula -_Switzerland_ - -Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk -that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula -whose proud name it bears. - -Alderney -_Channel Islands_ - -The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special -breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate -it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny. - -Alemtejo -_Portugal_ - -Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way -that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; -sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing -respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller -sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The -method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and -unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made -from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two -other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da -Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. -In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with -_chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so -much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks -for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference -in sizes. - -Alfalfa _see_ Sage. - -Alise Saint-Reine -_France_ - -Soft; summer-made. - -Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, or Allgäuer Emmentaler -_Bavaria_ - -Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain -of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are -two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse and soft Allgäuer -Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through -rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme -that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it -is no wonder that Allgäuer Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. -Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgäu -were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home -caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early -1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went -up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only -when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their -prime. - -Allgäuer Rahmkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. -This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian -mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with -the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the -stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the old-time Slipcote of England. -Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. -Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, -Rahmkäse can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses -in Germany. - -Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe. - -Al Pepe -_Italy_ - -Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_). - -Alpes -_France_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. - -Alpestra -_Austria_ - -A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it -was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy -spells hers Alpestro. - -Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon -_France_ - -Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap. - -Alpestro -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted. - -Alpin or Clérimbert -_Alpine France_ - -The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. The curd is -dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half -inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day -only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. - -Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in -diameter, weight two pounds. - -Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese -_Germany_ - -Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests. - -Altsohl _see_ Brinza. - -Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert -_Limagne, Auvergne, France_ - -A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the -Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe. - -American, American Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen -fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and -Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, -with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, -Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about -sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same -way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are -ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, -richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the -passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4. - -Americano Romano -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; brittle; sharp. - -Amou -_Béarn, France_ - -Winter cheese, October to May. - -Anatolian -_Turkey_ - -Hard; sharp. - -Anchovy Links -_U.S.A._ - -American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any -fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy -links. - -Ancien Impérial -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchâtel and made -in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, -one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when -ripe. It is also called Carré and has separate names for the new and -the old: (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré Affiné, when it -has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same -time as Neufchâtel. - -Ancona _see_ Pecorino. - -Andean -_Venezuela_ - -A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is formed into rough -cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejón -Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic -flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.) - -Andechs -_Bavaria_ - -A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on -Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread -and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes. - -Antwerp -_Belgium_ - -Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin. - -Appenzeller -_Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_ - -Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a -pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two -qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a -year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white -wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with -lees of wine. - -Appetitost -_Denmark_ - -Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up -to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in -which it is made. - -Appetost -_Denmark_ - -Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for -snap. Imitated in U.S.A. - -Apple -_U.S.A._ - -A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked -apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone -and Baby Gouda, no doubt. - -Arber -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains -between Bohemia and Silesia. - -Argentine -_Argentina_ - -Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical -Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and -fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding. - -Armavir -_Western Caucasus_ - -Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour -buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in -a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese. - -Arnauten _see_ Travnik. - -Arovature -_Italy_ - -Water-buffalo milk. - -Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs. - -Arrigny -_Champagne, France_ - -Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the -same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are -specially well suited to one another. - -Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte. - -Artificial Dessert Cheese - -In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made -by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with -powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred -in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a -curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six -to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored -with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an -hour or two and finally served up with more cream. - -Asadero, or Oaxaca -_Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_ - -White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or -kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight -Asadero means "suitable for roasting." - -Asco -_Corsica, France_ - -Made only in the winter season, October to May. - -Asiago I, II and III -_Vicenza, Italy_ - -Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves -weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but -have a taste all their own. - -I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating. - -II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine -months old. - -III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's -fine for grating. - - -Asin, or Water cheese -_Northern Italy_ - -Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring -and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with -honey and fruit. - -Au Cumin -_see_ Münster. - -Au Fenouil -_see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Au Foin and de Foin - -A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage -de Foin. - -Augelot -_Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France_ - -Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type. - -d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne. - -Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney. - -Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Aurore and Triple Aurore -_Normandy, France_ - -Made and eaten all year. - -Australian and New Zealand -_Australia and New Zealand_ - -Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some -Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed. - -Autun -_Nivernais, France_ - -Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it -and this is of special interest in a province where the chief -competitors are made of goat's milk. - -Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu. - -Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses. - -Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette. - -Aydes, les -_Orléanais, France_ - -Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June. - -Azeitão, Queijo do -_Portugal_ - -Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ão_ implies. -There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of -rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. - -Azeitoso -_Portugal_ - -Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named. - -Azuldoch Mountain -_Turkey_ - -Mild and mellow mountain product. - - -B - -Backsteiner -_Bavaria_ - -Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the -shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. -Brick. - -Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette -_Switzerland_ - -Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for -"scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese -and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted -in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced -Welsh Rabbit sandwich. - -Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano -_Italy_ - -Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. - -Bakers' cheese - -Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. -Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, -but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. - -Ball -_U.S.A._ - -Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original -Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. - -Ballakäse or Womelsdorf - -Similar to Ball. - -Balls, Dutch Red - -English name for Edam. - -Banbury -_England_ - -Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, -famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury -cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early -nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today. - -Banick -_Armenia_ - -White and sweet. - -Banjaluka -_Bosnia_ - -Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery. - -Banon, or les Petits Banons -_Provence, France,_ - -Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and -exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly -summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and -festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. - -Bar cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the -U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of -America's cheese industry. - -Barbacena -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading -cheese state of Brazil. - -Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in -diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, -near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated -by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with -a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off -in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened -three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when -made in summer they are often sold fresh. - -Barboux -_France_ - -Soft. - -Baronet -_U.S.A._ - -A natural product, mild and mellow. - -Barron -_France_ - -Soft. - -Bassillac _see_ Bleu. - -Bath -_England_ - -Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic -resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered -with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most -delicate of English-speaking cheeses. - -Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and -western Austria_ - -An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is -only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty -to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower -temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months ---and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though -sharp, full nutty flavor. - -Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) -_Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_ - -Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in -about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is bigger. In two forms, one -cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, -whether made with or without caraway. - -Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkäse. - -Bavarian Cream -_German_ - -Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. -Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. - -Bavarois à la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois. - -Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne. - -Bayrischer Bierkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, -but to dunk in it. - -Beads of cheese -_Tibet_ - -Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a -necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. -_Also see_ Money Made of Cheese. - -Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and -also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk -of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. - -Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons. - -Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont -_Savoy, France_ - -A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret -triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June. - -Beaupré de Roybon -_Dauphiné, France_ - -A winter specialty made from November to April. - -Beckenried -_Switzerland_ - -A good mountain cheese from goat milk. - -Beer cheese -_U.S.A._ - -While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a -translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a type of strong -Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is -considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in -Germany Bierkäse is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of -beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather -than eaten. - -Beer-Regis -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar -named after its hometown in Dorsetshire. - -Beist-Cheese -_Scotland_ - -A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled -or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling -new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill) - -Belarno -_Italy_ - -Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese. - -Belgian Cooked -_Belgium_ - -The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed -and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is -allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to -fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the -fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is -heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds -and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs -about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from -other forms of cooked cheese. - -Beli Sir _see_ Domaci. - -Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head -_Switzerland_ - -Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet -in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not -so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, -the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can -stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are -ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to -ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, -the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is -kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy -spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more -white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest -monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the -jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively -and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. - -Bel Paese -_Italy_ - -_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, -and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The -American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. - -Bel Paesino -_U.S.A._ - -A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive -in every other way. - -Bergkäse _see_ Allgäuer. - -Bergquara -_Sweden_ - -Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets -sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to -forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century. - -Berkeley -_England_ - -Named after its home town in Gloucester, England. - -Berliner Kuhkäse -_Berlin, Germany_ - -Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical -German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's -about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway. - -Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde -_Italy_ - -Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for -flavor. Cured for two months. - -Berques -_France_ - -Made of skim milk. - -Berry Rennet _see_ Withania. - -Bessay, le -_Bourbonnais, France_ - -Soft, mild, and creamy. - -Bexhill -_England_ - -Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. - -Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually -dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, -notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; -sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as -Milwaukee and Hoboken. - -Bifrost -_Norway_ - -Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce -package. - -Binn -_Wallis, Switzerland_ - -Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. - -Bitto -_Northern Italy_ - -Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses -in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When -eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has -small eyes. - -Blanc à la crème _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II. - -Bleu -_France_ - -Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting. - -Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu -_Auvergne, France_ - -Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and -Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same -province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille. - -Bleu de Bassillac -_Limousin, France_ - -Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May. - -Bleu de Laqueuille -_France_ - -Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its -originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century -ago, in 1854. - -Bleu de Limousin, Fromage -_Lower Limousin_ - -Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin. - -Bleu de Salers -_France_ - -A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for -its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only -in the winter months, from November to May. - -Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Blind - -The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong -to, such as blind Swiss. - -Block Edam -_U.S.A._ - -U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of -Edam. - -Block, Smoked -_Austria_ - -The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum. - -Bloder, or Schlicker Milch -_Switzerland_ - -Sour-milker. - -Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton. - -Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue. - -Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset. - -Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel. - -Blue, and Blue with Port Links -_U.S.A._ - -One of the modern American process sausages. - -Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota. - -Blue Moon -_U.S.A._ - -A process product. - -Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for -private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An -epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in -a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal -Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from -which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a -different action. - -Bocconi Geganti -_Italy_ - -Sharp and smoky specialty. - -Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone. - -Boîte _see_ Fromage de Boîte. - -Bombay -_India_ - -Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of -a cracker. - -Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchâtel. - -Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes -_Normandy, France_ - -Nicknamed _Bonde à tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a -barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. -Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. - -Bondon de Rouen -_France_ - -A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to -last up to ten days. - -Bondost -_Sweden_ - -When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost -in Norway. - -Bond Ost -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin. - -Bon Larron -_France_ - -Romantically named "the penitent thief." - -Borden's -_U.S.A._ - -A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the -leader. - -Borelli -_Italy_ - -A small water-buffalo cheese. - -Bossons Maceres -_Provence, France_ - -A winter product, December, January, February and March only. - -Boudanne -_France_ - -Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months. - -Boudes, Boudon -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family. - -Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe. - -Bouillé, la -_Normandy France_ - -One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In -season October to May. - -Boule de Lille -_France_ - -Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it. - -Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai -_Flanders, France_ - -Made from November to May, eaten all year. - -Bourgain -_France_ - -Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed -locally. - -Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes. - -Box -_Württemberg, Germany_ - -Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft: - -I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it -is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with -partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a -handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three -months and shipped in wooden boxes. - -II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess -and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant. - -Bra No. I -_Piedmont, Italy_ - -Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight -twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander -with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. - -Bra No. II -_Turin and Cuneo, Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine. - -Brand or Brandkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd -is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a -day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. -After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently -moistened with beer while curing. - -Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream. - -Branja de Brailia -_Rumania_ - -Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine. - -Branja de Cosulet -_Rumania_ - -Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A -creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism -of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a -gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good -English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor -which must be unique among cheeses. - -Bratkäse -_Switzerland_ - -Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on -toast. - -Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other names -_Germany_ - -Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. -Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in -Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. - -Breakstone -_U.S.A._ - -Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and -manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream -cheese is an American product to be proud of. - -Brésegaut -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, white. - -Breslau -_Germany_ - -A proud Prussian dessert cheese. - -Bressans _see_ les Petits. - -Bresse -_France_ - -Lightly cooked. - -Bretagne _see_ Montauban. - -Brevine -_Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Briançon _see_ Alpin. - -Brick _see_ Chapter 4. - -Brickbat -_Wiltshire, England_ - -A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. -Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before -"it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton. - -Bricotta -_Corsica_ - -Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into -small luscious cakes. - -Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendré and Coulommiers. - -Brie Façon -_France_ - -The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. -Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie -_véritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly -called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France. - -_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France. - -Brie de Meaux -_France_ - -This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation -for high quality. It is made only from November to May. - -Brie de Melun -_France_ - -This Brie _véritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from -November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always -prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring -Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that -ripens until May. - -Brillat-Savarin -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du -Goût_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject -beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is -named in his everlasting praise. - -Brina Dubreala -_Rumania_ - -Semisoft, sheep, done in brine. - -Brindza -_U.S.A._ - -Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as -popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and -Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise -"Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original -Brinza. - -Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, -Brina Dubreala, Briney. - -Briney, or Brined -_Syria_ - -Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. -Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type. - -Brinza, or Brinsen -_Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_ - -Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, -Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, -sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub -with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia. - -Brioler _see_ Westphalia. - -Briquebec _see_ Providence - -Briqueton -_England_ - -The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few -cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth -century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at -the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche. - -Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, -and U.S. Hopi. - -Brizecon -_Savoy, France_ - -Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province. - -Broccio, or le Brocconis -_Corsica, France_ - -Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to -Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, -where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and -half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and -eaten all year. - -Broodkaas -_Holland_ - -Hard, flat, nutty. - -Brousses de la Vézubie, les -_Nice, France_ - -Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar -or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie. - -Brussels or Bruxelles -_Belgium_ - -Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal -districts. - -Budapest -_Hungary_ - -Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and -abroad in Vienna. - -Buderich -_Germany_ - -A specialty in Dusseldorf. - -Bulle -_Switzerland_ - -A Swiss-Gruyère. - -Bundost -_Sweden_ - -Semihard; mellow; tangy. - -Burgundy -_France_ - -Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully -together. - -Bushman -_Australia_ - -Semihard; yellow; tangy. - -Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8. - -"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar. - -Buttermilk -_U.S. & Europe_ - -Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain. - - -C - -Cabeçou, le -_Auvergne, France_ - -Small; goat; from Maurs. - -Cabrillon -_Auvergne, France_ - -So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under -the rind. - -Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux - -_Provence Mountains, France_ - -Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry -seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to -November. - -Caciocavallo -_Italy_ - -"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated -all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Caciocavallo Siciliano -_Sicily, also in U.S.A._ - -Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but -sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between -17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. - -Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta -_Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten -fresh. - -Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino. - -Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari. - -Caerphilly -_Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_ - -Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold -"green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when -weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities -it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it -specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and -does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. - -Caillebottes (Curds) -_France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée_ - -Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with -chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and -served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. -A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (_see_). Other cheeses -are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon -juice, especially in Portugal. - -Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots. - -Caille de Habas -_Gascony, France_ - -Clabbered or clotted sheep milk. - -Cajassou -_Périgord, France_ - -A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac. - -Calabrian -_Italy_ - -The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo. - -Calcagno -_Sicily_ - -Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating. - -Caledonian Cream -_Scotland_ - -More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner -Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange -marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half -an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good -ice-pudding." - -Calvados -_France_ - -Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same -province. - -Calvenzano -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. - -Cambrai _see_ Boulette. - -Cambridge, or York -_England_ - -Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and -dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours. - -Camembert _see_ Chapter 3. - -"Camembert" -_Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_ - -A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box -which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert -_véritable_ of Normandy. - -Camosun -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed -in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated -with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° -to 60° F. - -Canadian Club -_see_ Cheddar Club. - -Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, -Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comté, -France_ - -Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and -sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and -pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one -of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort. - -Canestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to -mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to -perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for -Italian settlers. - -Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and -La Tome. -_Auvergne, France_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; -yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a -hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures -is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still -made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very -old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or -Guiole. - -Capitanata -_Italy_ - -Sheep. - -Caprian -_Capri, Italy_ - -Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, -and tangy as a buck. - -Caprino (Little Goat) -_Argentina_ - -Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese. - -Caraway Loaf -_U.S.A._ - -This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses -that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese -but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long -made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the -fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from -Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian -Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to -Pennsylvania Pot. - -Cardiga, Queijo da -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, -a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other -cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild -artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can -compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. -They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. - -Carlsbad -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive. - -Carré Affiné -_France_ - -Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and -Ancien Impérial (_see_). - -Carré de l'Est -_France_ - -Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A. - -Cascaval Penir -_Turkey_ - -Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home. - -Caseralla -_Greece_ - -Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy. - -Casere -_Greece_ - -Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet -tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with -goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. - -Cashera -_Armenia and Greece_ - -Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and -high in quality. - -Cashera -_Turkey_ - -Semihard; sheep. - -Casher Penner _see_ Kasher. - -Cashkavallo -_Syria_ - -Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo. - -Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca -_Sardinia_ - -Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method. - -Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta. - -Caspian -_Caucasus_ - -Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to -speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting. - -Cassaro -_Italy_ - -Locally consumed, seldom exported. - -Castelmagno -_Italy_ - -Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type. - -Castelo Branco, White Castle -_Portugal_ - -Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da -Estrella (_see_). - -Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Castle, Schlosskäse -_North Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Catanzaro -_Italy_ - -Consumed locally, seldom exported. - -Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf. - -Celery -_Norway_ - -Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway. - -Cendrée, la -_France--Orléanais, -Blois & Aube_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, -Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet - -Cendré d'Aizy -_Burgundy, France_ - -Available all year. _See_ la Cendrée. - -Cendré de la Brie -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May. - -Cendré Champenois or Cendré des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes. - -Cendré Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis. - -Certoso Stracchino -_Italy, near Milan_ - -A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have -made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than -the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has -less distinction for the same reason. - -Ceva -_Italy_ - -Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. - -Chabichou -_Poitou, France_ - -Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months -from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to -be vintaged like wine by the year. - -Chaingy -_Orléans, France_ - -Season September to June. - -Cham -_Switzerland_ - -One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister -Pfister (_see_ Pfister). - -Chamois milk - -Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. -This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not -available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain -goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, -most flavorsome of milk. - -Champenois or Fromage des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des -Riceys. - -Champoléon de Queyras -_Hautes-Alpes, France_. - -Hard; skim-milker. - -Chantelle -_U.S.A._ - -Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best -purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, -perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger." - -Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Chaource -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living -Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert. - -Chapelle -_France_ - -Soft. - -Charmey Fine -_Switzerland_ - -Gruyère type. - -Chaschol, or Chaschosis -_Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_ - -Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by -three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds. - -Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chèvre. - -Chaumont -_Champagne, France_ - -Season November to May. - -Chavignol _see_ Crottin. - -Chechaluk -_Armenia_ - -Soft; pot; flaky; creamy. - -Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3. - -Cheese bread -_Russia and U.S.A._ - -For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread -called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See -both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft -and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. -It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid -with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with -Sapsago. - -Cheese butter - -Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and -mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to -be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. - -Cheese food -_U.S.A._ - -"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from -milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, -relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." -(A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement - -Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. - -Cheese mites _see_ Mites. - -Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in -Chapter 3. - -Cheshire-Stilton -_England_ - -In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold -peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by -keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in -which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and -shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, -making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is -Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. - -Chester -_England_ - -Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was -imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. - -Chevalier -_France_ - -Curds sweetened with sugar. - -Chevèlle -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Wisconsin. - -Chèvre _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre petit _see_ Petìts Fromages. - -Chèvre, Tome de _see_ Tome. - -Chevretin -_Savoy, France_ - -Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. - -Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy -_Bresse & Franche-Comté, France_ - -Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season -December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in -France. - -Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the -railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. - -Chevrotins -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and -eaten from March to December. - -Chhana -_Asia_ - -All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, -and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. - -Chiavari -_Italy_ - -There are two different kinds named for -the Chiavari region, and both are hard: - I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. -II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the - historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the - birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with - its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. - -Chives cream cheese - -Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, -there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See -both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as -it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. - -Christalinna -_Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. - -Christian IX -_Denmark_ - -A distinguished spiced cheese. - -Ciclo -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese. - -Cierp de Luchon -_France_ - -Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the -distinction of being the only local product worth listing with -France's three hundred notables. - -Citeaux -_Burgundy, France_ - -Trappist Port-Salut. - -Clabber cheese -_England_ - -Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and -automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. - -Clairvaux -_France_ - -Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. - -Claqueret, le -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ -Chives. - -Clérimbert _see_ Alpin. - -Cleves -_France_ - -French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. - -Cloves _see_ Nagelkäse. - -Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese -_U.S.A. and Canada_ - -Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, -but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by -an American company and is now all-American. - -Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very -ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp -Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and -mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are -getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. -All are described as "tangy." - -Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small -porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller -tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." - -Cocktail Cheeses - -Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" -stores: - -Argentine aged Gruyère -Canadian d'Oka -French Bleu -Brie -Camembert -Fontainebleu -Pont l'Evêque -Port du Salut -Roblochon -Roquefort -Grecian Feta -Hungarian Brinza -Polish Warshawski Syr -Rumanian Kaskaval -Swiss Schweizerkäse -American Cheddar in brandy -Hopi Indian - -Coeur à la Crème -_Burgundy, France_ - -This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (_see_) when served with sugar, and -it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that -romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. - -Coeurs d'Arras -_Artois, France_ - -These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with -the cream of Arras. - -Coffee-flavored cheese - -Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with -their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with -Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving -by putting coffee in for flavor. - -Coimbra -_Portugal_ - -Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of -those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the -honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. - -Colby -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains -more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. - -College-educated - -Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their -colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another -called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big -cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in -Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with -one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of -high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe -the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign -imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in -this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of -Emmentaler. - -Colwick _see_ Slipcote. - -Combe-air -_France_ - -Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. - -Commission -_Holland_ - -Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in -color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight -pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. -It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. - -Compiègne -_France_ - -Soft - -Comté _see_ Gruyère. - -Conches -_France_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Condrieu, Rigotte de la -_Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ - -Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of -cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is -rich. - -Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. - -Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. - -Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot -_U.S.A._ - -Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool -it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. -Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is -stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It -is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned -out. - -All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk -flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to -white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, -with or without caraway, such as the following: - -Belgium--Kochtounkäse -Germany--Kochkäse, Topfen -Luxembourg--Kochenkäse -France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux -Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa - -Coon _see_ Chapter 4. - -Cornhusker -_U.S.A._ - -A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body -and more moisture. - -Cornimont -_Vosges, France_ - -A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in -flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé -and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. - -Corse, Roquefort de -_Corsica, France_ - -Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of -course. - -Cossack -_Caucasus_ - -Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: -I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in - the salt bath. -II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. - -Cotherstone -_Yorkshire, England_ - -Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) - -Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. - -Cotta _see_ Pasta. - -Cottage cheese - -Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America -it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like -playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from -the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, -together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania -Dutch cuisine. - -Cottenham or Double Cottenham -_English Midlands_ - -Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and -richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. - -Cottslowe -_Cotswold, England_ - -A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. -Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. - -Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) - -Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers -_France_ - -Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a -pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch -high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris -and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is -made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than -most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by -the avalanche of American summer tourists. - -Cow cheese - -Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying -word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow -cheese. - -Cream cheese -_International_ - -England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins -with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool -in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild -strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also -drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small -molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the -following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: - -Cambridge -Cottslowe -Cornwall -Farm Vale -Guilford -Homer's -"Italian" -Lincoln -New Forest -Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) -St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) -Scotch Caledonian -Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) -Victoria -York - -Crème Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Crème de Gien _see_ Fromage. - -Crème de Gruyère -_Franche-Comté France_ - -Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in -tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. - -Crème des Vosges -_Alsace, France_ - -Soft cream. Season October to April. - -Crème Double _see_ Double-Crème. - -Crème, Fromage à la _see_ Fromage. - -Crème, Fromage Blanc à la _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Crème St Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème St Gervais. - -Crèmet Nantais -_Lower Loire, France_ - -Soft fresh cream of Nantes. - -Crèmets, les -_Anjou, France_ - -A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert -than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, -drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and -sugar. - -Cremini -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the -way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of -musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. - -Creole -_Louisiana, U.S.A._ - -Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type -curd and rich cream. - -Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole -milk. Made from September to April. - -Creuse -_Creuse, France_ - -A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different -ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated -earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, -where it has drained for several days: - I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. -II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. - This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay - or Fromage de Foin.) - -Creusois, or Guéret -_Limousin, France_ - -Season, October to June. - -Croissant Demi-sel -_France_ - -Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. - -Crottin de Chavignol -_Berry, France_ - -Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April -to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. - -Crowdie, or Cruddy butter -_Scotland_ - -Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together -with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross -Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd -and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, -the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. - -Crying Kebbuck - -F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name -of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. - -Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. - -Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. - -Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. - -Cumin, Münster au _see_ Münster. - -Cup _see_ Koppen. - -Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. - -Curds and butter -_Arabia_ - -Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in -making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong -mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. - -Curé, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. - - -D - -Daisies, fresh - -A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. -Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use -for seasoning. - -Dalmatian -_Austria_ - -Hard ewe's-milker. - -Dambo -_Denmark_ - -Semihard and nutty. - -Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) -_Hungary_ - -Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular -Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon. - -Danish Blue -_Denmark_ - -Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of -Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is -exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although -it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of -Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and -definitely leads lesser Blues. - -Danish Export -_Denmark_ - -Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine -cheese, as many Danish exports are. - -Dansk Schweizerost -_Denmark_ - -Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. -Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. - -Danzig -_Poland_ - -A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, -Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. - -Darling -_U.S.A._ - -One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of -America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. - -Dauphin -_Flanders, France_ - -Season, November to May. - -d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. - -Daventry -_England_ - -A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" -veins of a darker green. - -Decize -_Nivernaise, France_ - -In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. - -de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. - -de Fontine -_Spain_ - -Crumbly, sharp, nutty. - -de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. - -de Gérardmer _see_ Récollet. - -Delft -_Holland_ - -About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) - -Délicieux - -The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. - -Delikat -_U.S.A._ - -A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück -original. (_See_.) - -de Lile, Boule - -French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. - -Demi-Étuve - -Half-size Étuve. (_See_.) - -Demi Petit Suisse - -The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the -Gros. - -Demi-Sel -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly -saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. - -Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. - -Derby, or Derbyshire -_England_ - -Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though -sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A -factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar -to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a -somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the -flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in -spite of its name. - -Devonshire cream and cheese -_England_ - -Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. -Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. -Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, -which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay -cheese. - -Dolce Verde -_Italy_ - -This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because -cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the -green-blues. - -Domaci Beli Sir -_Yugoslavia_ - -"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical -ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. - -Domestic Gruyère -_U.S.A._ - -An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. - -Domestic Swiss -_U.S.A_ - -Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous -150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is -there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. - -Domiati -_Egypt_ - -Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no -openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's -called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. - -Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny -_England_ - -Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. -"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. -Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than -that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) - -Dotter -_Nürnberg, Germany_ - -An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He -enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual -way. When well ripened it is splendid. - -Doubles - -The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double -Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses -from which some of the cream has been removed. - -Double-cream -_England_ - -Similar to Wensleydale. - -Double-crème -_France_ - -There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is -richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and -Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season -and are much in demand. - -Dresdener Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim -milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as -merely eaten. - -Drinking cheeses - -Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic -countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make -distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up -the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with -pepper sauce in some parts. - -Dry -_Germany_ - -From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. -"This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small -dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It -is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in -the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other -purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle -which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is -thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked -quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed -are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then -placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready -for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) - -Dubreala _see_ Brina. - -Duel -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. - -Dunlop -_Scotland_ - -One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, -which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. -Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one -of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and -weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of -Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. - -Durak -_Turkey_ - -Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. - -Duralag, or Bgug-Panir -_Armenia_ - -Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy -with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days -to two months. - -Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. - -Dutch -_Holland_ - -Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. - -Dutch cheese - -American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. - -Dutch Cream Cheese -_England_ - -Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore -richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call -the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. - -Dutch Mill -_U.S.A._ - -A specialty of Oakland, California. - -Dutch Red Balls - -English name for Edam. - - -E - -Echourgnac, Trappe d' -_Périgord, France_ - -Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. - -Edam _see_ Chapter 3. - -Egg -_Finland_ - -Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. -Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that -these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by -their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen -their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all -Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of -them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. - -Elbinger, or Elbing -_West Prussia_ - -Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is -skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse. - -Ekiwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed -in. - -Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the -brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in -different locales. - -Elmo Table -_Italy_ - -Soft, mellow, tasty. - -Emiliano -_Italy_ - -Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. - -Emmentaler -_Switzerland_ - -There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the -world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese -listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter -3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) - -"En enveloppe" - -French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to -English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to -frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." - -Engadine -_Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. - -English Dairy -_England and U.S.A._ - -Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been -imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. - -Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. - -Epoisses, Fromage d' -_Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ - -Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The -season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and -cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in -making _confits_ with that name. - -Erbo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out -both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. - -Erce -_Languedoc, France_ - -Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November -to May. - -Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. - -Ervy -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half -inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also -known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. - -Essex -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. - -Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. - -Étuve and Demi-Étuve -_Holland_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season -all year. - -Evarglice -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sharp, nutty flavor. - -Excelsior -_Normandy, France_ - -Season all year. - - -F - -Factory Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp -Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too -tractable, in fact. - -Farm -_France_ - -Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with -apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. - -Farmer -_U.S.A._ - -This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, -fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, -or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the -oven. - -Farmhouse _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Farm Vale -_England_ - -Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, -eight to a box. - -Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. - -Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Ferme _see_ Farm. - -Feta _see_ Chapter 3. - -Feuille de Dreux -_Béarn, France_ - -November to May. - -"Filled cheese" -_England_ - -Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese -business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to -make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed -the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in -America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. -But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many -foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony -fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up -coagulation. - -Fin de Siècle -_Normandy, France_ - -Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the -years at the close of the nineteenth century. - -Fiore di Alpe -_Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." - -Fiore Sardo -_Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully -cured. - -Flandre, Tuile de -_France_ - -A kind of Marolles. - -Fleur de Deauville -_France_ - -A type of Brie, in season December to May. - -Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. - -Floedeost -_Norway_ - -Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. - -Fløtost -_Norway_ - -Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. -Similar to Mysost, but fatter. - -Flower -_England_ - -Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, -delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas -scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea -of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese -for them to import except bean curd. - -Fodder cheese - -A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. -Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or -barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. - -Foggiano -_Apulia, Italy_ - -A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. - -Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. - -Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. - -Fontainebleau -_France_ - -Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; -summer variety. - -Fontina -_Val d'Acosta, Italy_ - -Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. - -Fontine, de -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A favorite all-year product. - -Fontinelli -_Italy_ - -Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. - -Fontini -_Parma, Italy_ - -Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same -region as Parmesan. - -Food cheese -_U.S.A._ - -An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese -content to flavor it. - -Forez, also called d'Ambert -_France_ - -The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening -unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six -inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the -cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. -Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The -flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From -_Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we -are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this -alphabet.) - -Formagelle -_Northwest Italy_ - -Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. - -Formaggi di Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming -and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it -into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, -Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. - -Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco -_Italy_ - -Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. -A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two -ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it -ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with -the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and -cinnamon. - -Formaggio d'Oro -_Northwest Italy_ - -Hard, sharp, mountain-made. - -Formaggio Duro (Dry) -and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. - -Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. - -Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome -_Auvergne, France_ - -This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where -many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as -Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert -and Cantal.) - -Fourme de Montebrison -_Auvergne, France_ - -This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. - -Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely -it is sometimes sold under that name. - -Fresa, or Pannedas -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. - -Fribourg -_Italy and Switzerland_ - -Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) - -Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese -_Holland_ - -Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is -made in winter, beginning in November. - -Friesian _see_ West Friesian. - -Fromage à la Creme -_France_ - - I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of - Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. - II. Franche-Comté--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, - whipped egg whites and sugar. -III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is - hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a - little fresh milk and served with cream. - IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket - for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème, - heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. - -Fromage à la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm - -Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille -_France_ - -Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after -Bavaria where it probably originated. - -Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à -la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt -and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la -Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, -except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and -called Fromage Blanc à la Crème. - -Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of -fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also -called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are -Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. - -Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) -_Thionville, Lorraine, France_ - -Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in -many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed -and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk -and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. - -Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. - -Fromage de Bayonne -_Bayonne, France_ - -Made with ewe's milk. - -Fromage de Bôite -_Doubs, France_ - -Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque. - -Fromage de Bourgogne - -_see_ Burgundy. - -Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux -_Berry, France_ - -A seasonal goat cheese. - -Fromage de Curé _see_ Nantais. - -Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté -_Poitou, France_ - -Half goat and half cow milk. - -Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. - -Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncée. - -Fromage de St. Rémy _see_ Chevrets. - -Fromage de Serac -_Savoy, France_ - -Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. - -Fromage de Troyes -_France_ - -Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) - -Fromage de Vache - -Another name for Autun. - -Fromage de Monsieur Fromage -_Normandy, France_ - -This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season -runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe -from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, -mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name -suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. -Chicken. - -Fromage Fort -_France_ - -Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the -department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth -and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After -being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, -salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before -fermenting some more. - -Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and -Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all -France. - -_Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the -gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. - -_Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded -and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ -Hazebrook.) - -_Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In -production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with -brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. - -Fromage Gras (fat cheese) -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, round, fat ball called _tête de mort_, "death's head." Winter -Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name -incited Victor Meusy to these lines: - - _Les gens à l'humeur morose - Prennent la Tête-de-Mort._ - - People of a morose disposition - Take the Death's Head. - -Fromage Mou - -Any soft cheese. - -Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. - -Fromagère _see_ Canquillote. - -Fromages de Chèvre -_Orléanais, France_ - -Small, dried goat-milkers. - -Frühstück - -Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half -to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many -Germans and Americans break their fast. - -Ftinoporino -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. - - -G - -Gaiskäsli -_Germany and Switzerland_ - -A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three -inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half -pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the -whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt -the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. - -Gammelost -_Norway_ - -Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned -daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So -far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way -through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to -medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his -_Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the -ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of -eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi -flavored with cheese." - -Garda -_Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town -on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious -little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the -moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. - -Garden -_U.S.A._ - -Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. - -Garlic -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. - -Garlic-onion Link -_U.S.A._ - -A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, -nobody knows why. - -Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ - -Gautrias -_Mayenne, France_ - -Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. - -Gavot -_Hautes-Alpes, France_ - -A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. - -Geheimrath -_Netherlands_ - -A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep -yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight - -Gérardmer, de _see_ Récollet - -German-American adopted types - -Bierkäse -Delikat -Grinnen -Hand -Harzkäse -Kümmelkäse -Koppen -Lager -Liederkranz -Mein Kaese -Münster -Old Heidelberg -Schafkäse (sheep) -Silesian -Stein -Tilsit -Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer) - -Géromé, la -_Vosges, France_ - -Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, -but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. -It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. - -Gervais -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. -Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. -Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. - -Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. - -Getmesost -_Sweden_ - -Soft; goat; whey; sweet. - -Gex -_Pays de Gex, France_ - -Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from -November to May. - -Gex Marbré -_France_ - -A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, -mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues -family, that are green in spite of their name. - -Gien _see_ Fromage à la Crème. - -Gislev -_Scandinavia_ - -Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. - -Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made -with goat's milk. - -Glavis -_Switzerland_ - -The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) - -Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse -_Germany_ - -Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that -includes Olmützer Quargel. - -Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. - -Gloucester -_Gloucestershire, England_ - -There are two types: - I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six - months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of - flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure - its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply - to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you - then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the - praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." - _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by André L. Simon. -II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester - ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" - brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and - "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is - from an old vintage." - -Glumse -_West Prussia, Germany_ - -A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. - -Glux -_Nivernais, France_ - -Season, all year. - -Goat -_France_ - -A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. -Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled -dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants -smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, -goat cheese is always notable or noble. - -Gold-N-Rich -_U.S.A._ - -Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. -Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and -deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red -rind. - -Gomost -_Norway_ - -Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is -curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a -butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) - -Gorgonzola -_Italy_ - -Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is -White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by -local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. - -Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. - -Gouda, Kosher -_Holland_ - -The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit -more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the -Jewish authorities who prepare it. - -Goya -_Corrientes, Argentine_ - -Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses -the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes -Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. - -It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines -the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same -for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of -which excel the originals. - -Gournay -_Seine, France_ - -Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 -pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of -an inch thick and four inches long. - -Grana -_Italy_ - -Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that -the curd is cut into. - -Grana Lombardo -_Lombardy_ - -The same hard type for grating, named -after its origin in Lombardy. - -Grana Reggiano -_Reggio, Italy_ - -A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not -only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes -by a pet name of its own--Regianito. - -Grande Bornand, la -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. - -Gras, or Velvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tête de -Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of -Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tête de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras -is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France -and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) - -Gratairon -_France_ - -Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. - -Graubünden -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Green Bay -_U.S.A._ - -Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the -Limburger county. - -Grey -_Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ - -Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. -Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. -It has a very pleasant taste. - -Gruyère _see_ Chapter 3. - -Güssing, or Land-l-kas -_Austria_ - -Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. - - -H - -Habas _see_ Caille. - -Hablé Crème Chantilly -_Ösmo, Sweden_ - -Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old -Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and -sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big -city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the -finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Hand _see_ Chapter 3. - -Hard -_Puerto Rico_ - -Dry; tangy. - -Harzkäse, Harz -_Harz Mountains, Germany_ - -Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying -from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little -boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like -Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. - -Harzé -_Belgium_ - -Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery -at Harzé. - -Hasandach -_Turkey_ - -Bland; sweet. - -Hauskäse. -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. Disk-shaped. - -Haute Marne -_France_ - -Soft; square. - -Hay, or Fromage au Foin -_Seine, France_ - -A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write -home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. - -Hazebrook - -There are two kinds: - - I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and - pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. - -II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and - marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. - -Head - -Four cheeses are called Head: - -The French Death's Head. -Swiss Monk's Head. -Dutch Cat's Head. -Moor's Head. - -There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only -a cheese by discourtesy. - -Health _see_ Holstein. - -Herbesthal -_Germany_ - -Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. - -Herkimer -_U.S.A._ - -Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. - -Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House -_West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ - -Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. -Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden -and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. - -Herrgårdstyp _see_ Hushållsost. - -Hervé -_Belgium_ - -Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, -parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in -three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. - -Hickory Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. - -Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. - -Hohenheim -_Germany_ - -Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) - -Hoi Poi -_China_ - -Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. - -Hoja _see_ Queso de. - -Hollander -_North Germany_ - -Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. - -Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. - -Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner -_Germany_ - -Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. - -Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a -little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into -half-pound molds and cooled. - -Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse -_Germany_ - -Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. - -Hop, Hopfen -_Germany_ - -Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal -beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. - -Hopi -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the -Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. - -Horner's -_England_ - -An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce -originated. - -Horse Cheese - -Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of -the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. - -Hum -_Holland_ - -Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you -say "Ho-hum." - -Hushållsost, Household Cheese -_Sweden_ - -Popular in three types: -Herrgårdstyp--Farmhouse -Västgötatyp--Westgotland -Sveciatyp--Swedish - -Hvid Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of -Scandinavia. - - -I - -Icelandic - -In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is -like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like -the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. - -Ihlefield -_Mecklenburg, Germany_ - -A hand cheese. - -Ilha, Queijo de -_Azores_ - -Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, -measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, -_Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as -_Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their -cheeses. - -Impérial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. - -Imperial Club -_Canada_ - -Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien -Impérial. - -Incanestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" -from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the -three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. - -Irish Cheeses - -Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named -after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, -Three Counties, etc. - -Isigny -_France_ - -Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The -American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt -to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be -closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) - -In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as -famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as -any cream can. - -Island of Orléans -_Canada_ - -This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by -early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island -in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, -Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name -"refined." - - -J - -Jack _see_ Monterey. - -Jochberg -_Tyrol, Germany_ - -Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain -cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs -in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. - -Jonchée -_Santonge, France_ - -A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, -uniquely, black coffee. - -Josephine -_Silesia, Germany_ - -Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical -packages. - -Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. - -Julost -_Sweden_. - -Semihard; tangy. - -Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel -_France_ - -Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. - - -K - -Kaas, Oude -_Belgium_ - -Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. - -Kackavalj -_Yugoslavia_ - -Same as Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kaiser-käse -_Germany_ - -This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still -made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, -yellow container of tang. - -Kajmar, or Serbian Butter -_Serbia and Turkey_ - -Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between -that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. - -Kamembert -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Camembert. - -Karaghi La-La -_Turkey_ - -Nutty and tangy. - -Kareish -_Egypt_ - -A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. - -Karut -_India_ - -Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. - -Karvi -_Norway_ - -Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. - -Kash -_Rumania_ - -Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. - -Kashcavallo, Caskcaval -_Greece_ - -A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kasher, or Caher, Penner -_Turkey_ - -Hard; white; sharp. - -Kash Kwan -_Bulgaria and the Balkans_ - -An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, -grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is -sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big -American cities. - -Kaskaval -_Rumania_ - -Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in -Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As -popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. - -Kasseri -_Greece_ - -Hard; ewe's milk, usually. - -Katschkawalj -_Serbia_ - -Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. - -Katzenkopf, Cat's Head -_Holland_ - -Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Kaukauna Club -_U.S.A._ - -Widely advertised processed cheese food. - -Kauna -_Lithuania_ - -A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. - -Kefalotir, Kefalotyi -_Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ - -Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or -ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or -Kefalo. - -Keg-ripened -_see_ Brand. - -King Christian IX -_Denmark_ -Sharp with caraway. Popular with -everybody. - -Kingdom Farm -_U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ -The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and -Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky -enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not -available elsewhere. - -Kirgischerkäse _see_ Krutt. - -Kjarsgaard -_Denmark_ - -Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. - -Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese -_Germany_ - -A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to -promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the -_Konditories_. - -Kloster, Kloster Käse -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this -was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting -tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named -from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. - -Kochenkäse -_Luxembourg_ - -Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended -for diets. - -Koch Käse -_Germany_ - -This translates "cooked cheese." - -Kochtounkäse -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. - -Kolos-monostor -_Rumania_ - -Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of -those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and -professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. - -Kolosvarer -_Rumania_ - -A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are -so many of the world's fine cheeses. - -Komijnekaas, Komynekass -_North Holland_ - -Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. - -Konigskäse -_Germany_ - -A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. - -Kopanisti -_Greece_ - -Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. - -Koppen, Cup, or Bauden -_Germany_ - -Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape -and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. -Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. - -Korestin -_Russia_ - -Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. - -Kosher - -This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to -Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish -authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) - -Krauterkäse -_Brazil_ - -Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the -Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss -Krauterkäse even though it is processed. - -Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese -_Switzerland_ - -Hard, grating cheese flavored with -herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse. - -Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse -_Asian Steppes_ - -A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, -from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and -pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. - -Kühbacher -_Bavaria_ - -Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, -where it is made. - -Kuminost -_Norway_ - -Semihard; caraway-seeded. - -Kumminost -_Sweden_ - -This is Bondost with caraway added. - -Kummin Ost -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin -where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. - -Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas -_Holland_ - -Caraway-seeded and named. - -Kümmelkäse -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for -itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to -imported kümmel liqueur. - - -L - -Labneh -_Syria_ - -Sour-milk. - -La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau -_France_ - -Cream cheese. - -Lager Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is -more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. - -Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole -_Aveyron, France_ - -An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman -occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full -season from November to May. - -Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray -_Poitou_ - -Goat cheese made from May to November. - -Lancashire, or Lancaster -_North England_ - -White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. -It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in -the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. -It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of -different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. -Deep orange in color. - -Land-l-kas, or Güssing -_Austria_ - -Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. - -Langlois Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly -compete with Roquefort. - -Langres -_Haute-Marne, France_ - -Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, -high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, -said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. -Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two -pounds. Consumed mostly at home. - -Lapland -_Lapland_ - -Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and -flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. - -Laredo -_Mexico_ - -Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. - -Larron -_France_ - -A kind of Maroilles. - -Latticini -_Italy_ - -Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. - -Laumes, les -_Burgundy, France_ - -Made from November to July. - -Lauterbach -_Germany_ - -Breakfast cheese - -Leaf _see_ Tschil. - -Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy -_Germany_ - -A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great -_milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point -in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick -and stirred with a Danish stirrer." - -Lebanie -_Syria_ - -Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. - -Lecco, Formaggini di -_Italy_ - -Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese -family as big as the human family of most Italians. - -Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. - -LeGuéyin -_Lorraine, France_ - -Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper -make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. - -Leicester -_England_ - -Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty -pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With -Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. - -An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made -for each other." - -Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. - -Leonessa - -A kind of Pecorino. - -Leroy -_U.S.A._ - -Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. - -Lerroux -_France_ - -Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or -winter months. - -Lescin -_Caucasus_ - -Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into -a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken -up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But -after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing -two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and -wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. - -The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine -in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as -in many wild and mountainous parts. - -Les Petits Bressans -_Bresse, France_ - -Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump -pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in -fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. - -Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. - -Le Vacherin - -Name given to two entirely different varieties: - I. Vacherin à la Main -II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) - -Levroux -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to December. - -Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese -_Holland_ - -Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of -Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made -on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory -product. - -Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. - -Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Lincoln -_England_ - -Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where -there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big -break for most natural cheeses. - -Lindenhof -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. - -Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu -_Hungary_ - -A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from -which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name -for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk -and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most -sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour -milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." -(_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Lipto -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both -Liptauer and Brinza. - -Little Nippy -_U.S.A._ - -Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to -"slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no -matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. - -Livarot -_Calvados, France_ - -Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, -fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the -same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months -when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six -by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of -caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By -June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early -in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the -cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and -help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, -piquant Livarot. - -Livlander -_Russia_ - -A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese -itself is red, not the rind. - -Locatelli -_Italy_ - -A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. - -Lodigiano, or Lombardo -_Lodi, Italy_ - -Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; -surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan -but not as fine in quality. - -Longhorn -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long -horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn -breed of cow that furnished the makings. - -Lorraine -_Lorraine, Germany_ - -Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio -nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce -portions that bring a very high price. - -Lumburger -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because -it has no odor. - -Lunch -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener. - -Lüneberg -_West Austria_ - -Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as -Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a -character of its own. - -Luxembourg -_U.S.A._ - -Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. - - -M - -Maconnais -_France_ - -Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. - -Macqueline -_Oise, France_ - -Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper -price. - -Madridejos -_Spain_ - -Named for Madrid where it is made. - -Magdeburger-kuhkäse -_Germany_ - -"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. - -Magerkäse _see_ Holstein Skim Milk - -Maggenga, Sorte -_Italy_ - -A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. - -Maguis -_Belgium_ - -Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. - -Maigre -_France_ - -A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras -and spring Migras. - -Maile -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine -bath where it stays sometimes a year. - -Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. - -Mainauer -_German_ - -Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three -pounds. - -Mainzer Hand -_German_ - -Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for -quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in -kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in -making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. - -Majocchino -_Sicily, Italy_ - -An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, -sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of -Incanestrato. - -Malakoff -_France_ - -A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or -ripe. - -Manicamp -_French Flanders_ - -In season from October to July. - -Mano, Queso de -_Venezuela_ - -A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. -(_See_ Venezuelan.) - -Manor House _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Manteca, Butter -_Italy_ - -Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering -of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual -for any Italian cheese. - -Manur, or Manuri -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers -can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added -with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and -allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and -dried." - -Maqueé -_Belgium_ - -Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. - -Marches -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk; hard. - -Margarine -_England_ - -An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. - -Margherita -_Italy_ - -Soft; cream; small. - -Marienhofer -_Austria_ - -Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; -weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. - -Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand -_Germany_ - -Soft; smelly; hand type. - -Maroilles, Marolles, Marole -_Flanders, France_ - -Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. -Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five -inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. - -Martha Washington Aged Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in -Chapter 4.) - -Mascarpone, or Macherone -_Italy_ - -Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in -muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. - -McIntosh -_Alaska_ - -An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and -described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at -times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar -Box_ by Dean Collins. - -McLaren's -_U.S.A._ - -Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in -Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. - -Meadowbloom -_U.S.A._ - -Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. - -Mecklenburg Skim -_Germany_ - -No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. - -Meilbou -_France_ - -Made in the Champagne district. - -Mein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. - -Melfa -_U.S.A._ - -Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half -moons. - -Melun -_France_ -Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de -Melun. - -Mentelto -_Italy_ -Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains - -Merignac -_France_ -Goat. - -Merovingian -_Northeast France_ -Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the -Merovingian kings. - -Mersem -_France_ -Lightly cooked. - -Mesitra -_Crimea_ -Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. - -Mesost -_Sweden_ -Whey; sweetish. - -Metton -_Franche-Comté, France_ -Season October to June. - -Meuse -_France_ -Soft; piquant; aromatic. - -Midget Salami Provolone -_U.S.A._ -This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, -too. - -Mignot -_Calvados, France_ -_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season -only in summer, April to September. - -_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only -seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and -popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados -cider, fresh, hard or distilled. - -Migras - -Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin -summer Maigre. - -Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches -thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. - -Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. - -Millefiori -_Milan, Italy_ - -A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no -cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. - -Milltown Bar -_U.S.A._ - -Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. - -Milk cheeses - -Milks that make cheese around the world: - -Ass -Buffalo -Camel -Chamois -Elephant -Goat -Human (_see_ Mother's milk) -Llama -Mare -Reindeer -Sea cow (Amazonian legend) -Sheep -Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) -Yak -Zebra -Zebu - -U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange -animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. - -Milwaukee Kümmelkäse -and Hand Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and -successfully imitated. - -Minas -_Brazil_ - -Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. -Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands -are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss -professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the -State Capital, Bello Horizonte. - -Minnesota Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, -Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals -to be proud of. - -Mintzitra -_in Macedonia; and_ -Mitzithra -_in Greece_ - -Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep -cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. - -Modena, Monte -_U.S.A._ - -Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. - -Mohawk Limburger -Spread -_U.S.A._ - -A brand that comes in one-pound jars. - -Moliterno -_Italy_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ - -Monceau -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard, similar to Maroilles. - -Moncenisio -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. - -Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse -_Austria_ - -This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the -Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch -of the Limburgers. - -The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is -shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle -Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of -whole milk. - -Money made of cheese -_China_ - -In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is -a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, -writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, -1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some -thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the -field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as -'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other -commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading -medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was -sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for -other articles of service." - -Monk's Head _see_ Tête de Moine. - -Monostorer -_Transylvania, Rumania_ - -Ewe's milk. - -Monsieur -_France_ - -Soft; salted; rich in flavor. - -Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - -Montana -_Catalonia_ - -A mountain cheese. - -Montasio -_Austria and Italy_ - -Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is -often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both -fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and -sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve -months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely -imitated in America. - -Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de -_Brittany, France_ - -A celebrated cheese of Brittany. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the -_Achittea_ family. - -Mont Blanc -_France_ - -An Alpine cheese. - -Mont Cenis -_Southeastern France_ -Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is -semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and -Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and -sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy -bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing -twenty-five pounds. - -Mont-des-Cats -_French Flanders_ - -Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. - -Montdidier -_France_ - -A fresh cream. - -Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone -Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to -Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than -either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best -is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. -Didier. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. - -Monterey -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in -California and along the Mexican border. - -Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. - -Monthéry -_Seine-et-Oise, France_ - -Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, -weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color -in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. - -Montpellier -_France_ - -Sheep. - -Moravian -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Semihard and sharp. - -Morbier -_Bresse, France_ - -In season from November to July. - -Mostoffait -_France_ - -A little-known product of Champagne. - -Mother's milk - -In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des -Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts -the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was -so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." -All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it -was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, -"Then all of us are cannibals." - -Mountain -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; yellow; sharp. - -Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. - -Mount Hope -_U.S.A._ - -Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. - -Mouse or Mouse Trap -_U.S.A._ - -Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade -store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, -however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. - -Mozzarella -_Italy_ - -Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white -cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a -half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at -Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like -Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is -imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. - -Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of -about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. - -Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true -Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. - -Mozzarinelli -_Italy_ - -A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. - -Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. - -Münster -_Germany_ - -German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to -Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; -whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to -strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. -Best in winter season, from November to April. - -Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and -French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer -season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise -seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is -served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. - -In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au -Cumin because of the caraway. - -American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They -are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. - -Mustard -_U.S.A._ - -A processed domestic, Gruyère type. - -Myjithra - -Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. - -Mysost, Mytost -_Scandinavia_ - -Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey -cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, -instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. -Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are -cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. - - -N - -Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland -_Austria_ - -Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, -in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. - -Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate -_Brittany, France_ - -A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. - -Nessel -_England_ - -Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. - -Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and Chapter -9. - -New Forest -_England_ - -Cream cheese from the New Forest district. - -Nieheimer -_Westphalia, Germany_ - -Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. -Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both -beer and hops in one cheese is unique. - -Niolo -_Corsica_ - -In season from October to May. - -Noekkelost or Nögelost -_Norway_ - -Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a -Gouda. - -Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" -_U.S.A._ - -Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, -perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. - -Nordost -_Sweden_ - -Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. - -North Wilts -_Wiltshire, England_ - -Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small -size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. - -Nostrale -_Northwest Italy_ - -An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: - I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring - when the cows are in the valley. -II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk - from lush mountain-grazing. - -Notruschki (cheese bread) -_Russia_ - -Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. - -Nova Scotia Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia -manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to -give the luxurious flavor. - -Nuworld -_U.S.A._ - -This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a -brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, -heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and -flavor. - -A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new -species or not. - - -O - -Oaxaca -_see_ Asadero. - -Oka, or La Trappe -_Canada_ - -Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada -after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ -Trappe. - -Old English Club -_U.S.A._ - -Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. - -Old Heidelberg -_U.S.A._ - -Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. - -Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile -_France_ - -A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron. - -Olive Cream -_U.S.A._ - -Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos -for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American -taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma -olives and Feta sheep cheese. - -Olivet -_Orléans, France_ - -Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: - I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. - II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. -III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. - -Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 -of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen -into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A -dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop -into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. - -Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour -_Béarn, France_ - -In season from October to May. - -Onion with garlic links -_U.S.A_ - -Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. - -Oporto -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. - -Orkney -_Scotland_ - -A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat -bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch -country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell -have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. - -Orléans -_France_ - -Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy. - -Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach -_Caucasus_ - -Comes in two forms: - I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. -II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of - sheep milk is the better. - -Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this -type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. - -Oswego -_U.S.A._ - -New York State Cheddar of distinction. - -Oude Kaas -_Belgium_ - -Popular in France as Boule de Lille. - -Oust, Fromage de -_Roussillon, France_ - -Of the Camembert family. - -Ovár -_Hungarian_ - -Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild -but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. - -Oveji Sir -_Yugoslavian Alpine_ - -Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. -Weight six to ten pounds. - -Oxfordshire -_England_ - -An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan -Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: - "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, - pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' - - "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' - - "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the - coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your - lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" - - -P - -Pabstett -_U.S.A_ - -The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although -beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has -long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste -to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular -beer. - -Packet cheese -_England_ - -This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package -or packet it comes in. - -Paglia -_Switzerland_ - -Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A -Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because -in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a -foreign type. - -Pago -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in -weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. - -Paladru -_Savoy, France_ - -In season from November to May. - -Palpuszta -_Hungary_ - -Fairly strong Limburger type. - -Pannarone -_Italy_ - -Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. - -Parenica -_Hungary_ - -Sheep. Caciocavallo type. - -Parmesan, Parmigiano -_Italy_ - -The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the -world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with -the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta -al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in -a mortar with a pestle. - -Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau -_German_ - -Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau. - -Pasta Cotta -_Italy_ - -The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. - -Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which -Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) - -Pasteurized Process Cheese Food -_U.S.A._ - -This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had -Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world -of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. - -Pastorella -_Italy_ - -Soft, rich table cheese. - -Patagras -_Cuba_ - -Similar to Gouda. - -Pecorino -_Italy_ - -Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. - -Pelardon de Rioms -_Languedoc, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to November. - -Peneteleu -_Rumania_ - -One of the international Caciocavallo family. - -Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album - -Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd -destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that -impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second -spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. - -Pennich -_Turkey_ - -Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. - -Pennsylvania Hand Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever -since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or -cooked. - -Penroque -_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ - -Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ -and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal -condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of -Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of -mother cow than mother nature. - -Pepato -_Italy_ - -Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine -for fire-eaters. - -An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. - -Persillé de Savoie -_Savoie, France_ - -In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner -similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. - -Petafina, La -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, -plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. - -Petit Carré -_France_ - -Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial. - -Petit Gruyère -_Denmark_ - -Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost -unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also -packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen -cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of -several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at -home. - -Petit Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -A pet name for Coulommiers. - -Petit Suisse -_France_ - -Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to -Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: - Gros--a largest cylinder - Demi--a small one - -Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised -its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, -Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is -ideal with honey. - -Petit Vacher -_France_ - -"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. - -Petits Bourgognes -_Lower Burgundy, France_ - -Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning -with B are Banons and Bressans. - -Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les -_France_ - -Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. - -Petits Fromages de Chèvre -_France_ - -Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of -Provence. - -Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers -_Poitou, France_ - -Clotted milk in small pots. - -Pfister -_Cham, Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh -skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to -manufacture it, in Chain. - -Philadelphia Cream -_U.S.A._ - -An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. -Made in New York State in spite of its name. - -Picnic -_U.S.A._ - -Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long -been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. - -Picodon de Dieule Fit -_Dauphiné, France_ - -In season from May to December. - -Pie, Fromage à la -_France_ - -Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese -type. - -Pie Cheese -_U.S.A_ - -An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in -wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And -by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to -find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being -wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind -on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make -processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying -word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged -nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" -out of a processed "Cheddar." - -Pimiento -_U.S.A._ - -Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland -national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or -cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old -Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that -equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. - -Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. - -Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. - -Piora -_Tessin, Switzerland_ - -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. - -Pippen -_U.S.A._ - -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll - -Pithiviers au Foin -_France_ - -Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May. - -Poitiers -_France_ - -Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. - -Pommel -_France_ - -All year. Double cream; unsalted. - -Ponta Delgada -_Azores_ - -Semifirm; delicate; piquant - -Pontgibaud -_France_ - -Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. - -Pont l'Evêque - -Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like -Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The -Inquisitive Cow." - -Poona -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in -two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature -before serving. - -Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. - -Port, Blue Links -_U.S.A._ - -"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. - -Pot cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite -for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and -macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the -sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. -Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. - -Potato -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes -added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the -potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die -curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two -of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. -The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a -fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered -with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen -for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is -probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a -period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it -appears to be the same." -From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. - -Potato Pepper -_Italy_ - -Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, -only not so stony hard. - -Pots de Crème St. Gervais -_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ - -The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both -as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. - -Pouligny-St. Pierre -_Touraine, France_ - -A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to -December. - -Poustagnax, le -_France_ - -A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. - -Prato -_Brazil_ - -Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland -Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named -not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from -whence it was borrowed long ago. - -Prattigau -_Switzerland_ - -Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home -valley. - -Prestost or Saaland Flarr -_Sweden_ - -Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, -packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed -daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. - -Primavera, Spring -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like -fragrance. - -Primost -_Norway_ - -Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. - -Primula -_Norway_ - -A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in -Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with -caraway added. - -Processed -_U.S.A._ - -From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by -emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic -mass. - -Promessi -_Italy_ - -Small soft-cream cheese. - -Provatura -_Italy_ - -A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for -a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. - -Providence -_France_ - -Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. - -Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and -Provolino -_Italy_ - -All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and -appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the -U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. - -Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in -the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, -Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to -four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with -huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all -sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that -are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. - -P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit -_Lorraine, France_ - -Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. - -Puant Macere -_Flanders_ - -"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November -to June. - -Pultost or Knaost -_Norway_ - -Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. - -Pusztador -_Hungary_ - -Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. - -Pyrenees, Fromage des -_France_ - -A fine mountain variety. - - -Q - -Quartiolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September -and November. - -Quacheq -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. - -Quargel _see_ Olmützer. - -Quartirolo -_Italy_ - -Soft, cow's milk. - -Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal -_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, -Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. - -Queso Anejo -_Mexico_ - -White, dry, skim milk. - -Queso de Bola -_Mexico_ - -Whole milk, similar to Edam. - -Queso de Cavallo -_Venezuela_ - -Pear-shaped cheese. - -Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. - -Queso de Cincho -_Venezuela_ - -Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. - -Queso de Crema -_Costa Rica_ - -Similar to soft Brick. - -Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese -_Puerto Rico_ - -Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. - -Queso de Mano -_Venezuela_ - -Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. - -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra -_Puerto Rico_ - -White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, - -Queso de Prensa -_Puerto Rico_ - -The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after -ripening two or three months. - -Queso de Puna -_Puerto Rico_ - -Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. - -Queso de Tapara -_Venezuela_ - -Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and -tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the -time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno -Provecho._ - -Queso Fresco -_El Salvador_ - -Cottage-cheese type. - -Queville _see_ Chapter 3. - -Queyras _see_ Champoléon. - - -R - -Rabaçal -_Coimbra, Portugal_ - -Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in -diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. - -Rabbit Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. - -Radener -_Germany_ - -Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by -four inches, weight 32 pounds. - -Radolfzeller Cream -_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ - -Similar to Münster. - -Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. - -Rahmkäse, Allgäuer -_German_ - -Cream. - -Rainbow -_Mexico_ - -Mild; mellow. - -Ramadoux -_Belgium_ - -Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé - -Rammil or Rammel -_England_ - -André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also -called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically -unobtainable today. - -Rangiport -_France_ - -A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. - -Rarush Durmar -_Turkey_ - -Brittle; mellow; nutty. - -Rächerkäse - -The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very -popular. - -Raviggiolo -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. - -Rayon or Raper -_Switzerland_ - -A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is -hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. - -Reblochon or Roblochon -_Savoy_ - -Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to -two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. - -Récollet de Gérardmer -_Vosges, France_ - -A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April - -Red -_Russia_ - -_see_ Livlander. - -Red Balls -_Dutch_ - -_see_ Edam. - -Reggiano _see_ Grana. - -Regianito -_Argentine_ - -Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere -imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. - -Reichkäse -_German_ - -Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. - -Reindeer -_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ - -In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk -It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is -curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. - -Relish cream cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. - -Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant -_Belgium_ - -The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it -is. The season is winter, from November to June. - -Requeijão -_Portugal and Brazil_ - -Recooked. - -Resurrection _see_ Welsh. - -Rhubarbe -_France_ - -A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our -pie plant. - -Riceys _see_ Champenois. - -Ricotta Romano -_Italy_ - -Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, -piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, -sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. - -Ricotta -_Italy and U.S.A._ - -Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, -blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and -rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, -some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor -substitute whey cheese. - -Ricotta Salata - -Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and -too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. - -Riesengebirge -_Bohemia_ - -Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's -northern mountains. - -Rinnen -_Germany_ - -This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named -from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. - -Riola -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to -ripen, two to three months. - -Robbiole -Robbiola -Robbiolini -_ Lombardy_ -_ Italian_ - -Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine -quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to -two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at -just under four ounces. - -Roblochon, le - -Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried -sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. - -Rocamadur -_Limousin, France_ - -Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. - -Rocroi -_France_ - -From the Champagne district. - -Rokadur -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Roquefort. - -Roll -_England_ - -Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. - -Rollot or Rigolot -_Picardy and Montdidier, France_ - -Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but -much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only -cheese. - -Roma -_Italy_ - -Soft cream. - -Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings -_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ - -A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is -not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is -scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. - -Romano, Romano Vacchino -_Italy_ - -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. - -Romanello -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating -cheese, cured one year. - -Roquefort -_France_ - -King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_ -Chapter 3. - -Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled -_U.S.A._ - -Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead -of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, -mustard, flour and spice oil. - -Roquefort de Corse -_Corsica, France_ - -This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep -milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. - -Roquefort de Tournemire -_France_ - -Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal -Roquefort name. - -Rougerets, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically -every variety is made with goat milk. - -Rouennais -_France_ - -This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten -from October to May. - -Round Dutch -_Holland_ - -An early name for Edam. - -Rouy, le -_Normandy, France_ - -From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. - -Royal Brabant -_Belgium_ - -Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. - -Royal Sentry -_Denmark_ - -Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't -yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American -one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its -ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe -(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese -whey solids and disodium phosphate. - -Ruffec, Fromage de -_Saintonge, France_ - -Fresh; goat. - -Runesten -_Denmark and U.S.A._ - -Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three -pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. - -Rush Cream Cheese -_England and France_ - -Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but -from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and -sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are -collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, -covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer -and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then -increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily -until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the -fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape -baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup -new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one -teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty -drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place -until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the -straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The -mats or baskets should not be used a second time. - - -S - -Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost -_Sweden_ - -Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with -whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with -whiskey. - -Saanen -_Switzerland_ - -Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest -cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as -Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth -century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. -It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and -then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds -and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for -ripening is six years, but some take nine. - -Sage, or Green cheese -_England_ - -This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the -U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the -method described in Chapter 4. - -Saint-Affrique -_Guyenne, France_ - -This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives -up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local -renown. - -We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the -host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped -abroad. - -Saint-Agathon -_Brittany, France_ - -Season, October to July. - -Saint-Amand-Montrond -_Berry, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Benoit -_Loiret, France_ - -Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt -rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to -fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about -six inches in diameter. - -Saint-Claude -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half -pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is -then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. - -Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Florentin -_Burgundy, France_ - -A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. - -Saint-Flour -_Auvergne, France_ - -Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. - -Saint-Gelay -_Poitou, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais -_see_ Pots de Crème. - -Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. - -Saint-Honoré -_Nivernais, France_ - -A small goat cheese. - -Saint-Hubert -_France_ - -Similar to Brie. - -Saint-Ivel -_England_ - -Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. -Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with -_Bacillus Bulgaricus._ - -Saint-Laurent -_Roussillon, France_ - -Mountain sheep cheese. - -Saint-Lizier -_Béarn, France_ - -A white, curd cheese. - -Saint-Loup, Fromage de -_Poitou and Vendée, France_ - -Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September - -Saint-Marcellin -_Dauphiné, France_ - -One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, -weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. -Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially -a goat cheese. - -Saint-Moritz -_Switzerland_ - -Soft and tangy. - -Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre -_Auvergne, France_ - -Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. - -Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. - -Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. - -Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. - -Saint-Rémy, Fromage de -_Haute-Saône, France_ - -Soft Pont l'Evêque type. - -Saint-Stefano -_German_ - -Bel Paese type. - -Saint-Winx -_Flanders, France_ - -The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian -border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. - -Sainte-Anne d'Auray -_Brittany, France_ - -A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. - -Sainte-Marie -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. - -Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine -_France_ - -Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay. - -Salamana -_Southern Europe_ - -Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. -It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix -with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. - -Salame -_France_ - -Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. -Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in -Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has -became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout -America. - -Salers, Bleu de -_France_ - -One of the very good French Blues. - -Saligny -_Champagne, France_ - -White cheese made from sheep's milk. - -Saloio -_Lisbon, Portugal_ - -An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 -to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near -the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. - -Salonite -_Italy_ - -Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. - -Saltee -_Ireland_ - -Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as -Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its -name implies. - -Salt-free cheese, for diets - -U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse. - -Samsö -_Denmark_ - -Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet -cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. - -Sandwich Nut - -An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel. - -Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. - -Sardegna -_Sardinia_ - -A Romano type made in Sardinia. - -Sardinian -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. - -Sardo -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. -There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. - -Sarraz or Sarrazin -_Vaud, Switzerland_ - -Roquefort type. - -Sassenage -_Dauphiny, France_ - -Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of -Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the -three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented -variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. - -Satz -_Germany_ - -Hard cheese made in Saxony. - -Savoy, Savoie -_France_ - -Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. - -Sbrinz -_Argentine_ - -Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. - -Scanno -_Abruzzi, Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened -rind, deep yellow interior. - -Scarmorze or Scamorze -_Italy_ - -Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being -made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang -from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine -when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. -Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in -Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. - -Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese) -_Germany_ - -Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. - -Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ - -Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six -pounds. - -Schlickermilch - -This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, -sour milk "waddle" cheese. - -Schlesische Sauermilchkäse -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered -shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in -summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three -to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. - -Schlesischer Weichquarg -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short -time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded -and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply -flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand -cheese odor develops. - -Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck -_German_ - -This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of -his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic -Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. - -Schmierkäse - -German cottage cheese that becomes -smearcase in America. - -Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. - -Schönland -_German_ - -Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." - -Schützenkäse -_Austria_ - -Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces -and wrapped in tin foil. - -Shottengsied -_Alpine_ - -A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. - -Schwarzenberger -_Hungary and Bohemia_ - -One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to -ripen. - -Schweizerkäse -_Switzerland_ - -German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) - -Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese -_Denmark_ - -A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing -wonderful. - -Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. - -Selles-sur Cher -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. - -Sénecterre -_Puy-de-Dôme, France_ - -Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. - -Septmoncel -_France_ - -Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and -sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to -Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk -triplets with Gex and Sassenage. - -Serbian -_Serbia_ - -Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk -over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an -hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth -and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it -is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally -with fresh milk for six. - -Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is -semisoft. - -Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. - -Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) -_Portugal_ - -The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other -milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated -by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is -ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds -averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside -is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. - -Sharp-flavored cheese - -U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, -Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de -Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. - -Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. - -Silesian -_Poland and Germany_ - -White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) - -Sir cheeses - -In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. -Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or -holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and -Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. - -Sir Iz Mjesine -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open -fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the -curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. -Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is -dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, -packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. - -Sir Mastny -_Montenegro_ - -Fresh sheep milk. - -Sir Posny -_Montenegro_ - -Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to -the names of Tord and Mrsav. - -Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. - -Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. - -Siraz -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. - -Skyr -_Iceland_ - -The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire -cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well -liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the -subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not -advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before -riding, as it gives you diarrhea." - -Slipcote, or Colwick -_England_ - -Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in -forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is -placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it -is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily -slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it -was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as -today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. - -Smältost -_Sweden_ - -Soft and melting. - -Smearcase - -Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for -cottage cheese. - -Smoked Block -_Austria_ - -A well-smoked cheese in block form. - -Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. - -Smoked Szekely -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. - -Smokelet -_Norway_. - -A small smoked cheese. - -Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. - -Sorbais -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full -flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, -but smaller. - -Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga - -Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. - -Soumaintrain, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Soybean -_China_ - -Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with -a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our -occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese -and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. - -Spalen or Stringer -_Switzerland_ - -A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of -Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the -vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. - -Sperrkäse _see_ Dry. - -Spiced -_International_ - -Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, -to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and -thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes -the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in -English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and -Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; -whole black pepper Pepato, etc. - -Spiced and Spiced Spreads -_U.S.A._ - -Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less -than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. - -Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. -_France_ - -Spitz Spitzkase -_Germany_ - -Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, -Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. - -Sposi -_Italy_ - -Soft; small; cream. - -Spra -_Greek_ - -Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in -one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made -principally from sheep milk. - -Stängenkase -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. - -Stein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after -the old German original. - -Steinbuscher-Käse -_German_ - -Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, -reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at -home but little known abroad. - -Steppe -_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ - -German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it -tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as -in Germany and Austria for home consumption. - -Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. - -Stirred curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed -younger. - -Stracchino -_Italy_ - -Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and -pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A -fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter -3. Also see Certoso Stracchino. - -Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of -this distinguished family. - -Stravecchio -_Italy_ - -Well-aged, according to the name. -Creamy and mellow. - -Stringer _see_ Spalen. - -Styria -_Austria_ - -Whole milk. Cylindrical form. - -Suffolk -_England_ - -An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" -cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has -stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty -hardness. - - "Hunger will break through stone walls and anything - except a Suffolk cheese." - - "Those that made me were uncivil - For they made me harder than the devil. - Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; - Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me." - -Surati, Panir -_India_ - -Buffalo milk. Uncolored. - -Suraz -_Serbia_ - -Semihard and semisoft. - -Sveciaost -_Sweden_ - -A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match -Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full -cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six -weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, -wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as -most _osts_ are. - -Sweet-curd -_U.S.A._ - -Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd -cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, -however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by -the granular process. - -Swiss -_U.S.A._ - -In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, -Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling -their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever -since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their -standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had -competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical -cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler. - -Szekely -_Transylvania, Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is -the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American -processed links, with wine flavors and everything. - - -T - -Taffel, Table, Taffelost -_Denmark_ - -A Danish brand name for an ordinary -slicing cheese. - -Tafi -_Argentina_ - -Made in the rich province of Tucuman. - -Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de -_Périgord, France_ - -Very small and tasty goat cheese. - -Taleggio -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type. - -Tallance -_France_ - -Goat. - -Tamie -_France_ - -Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is -more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced -not far away. - -Tanzenberger -_Carinthia, Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Tao-foo or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are -ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch -dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is -coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the -same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After -being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and -added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is. - -Teleme -_Rumania_ - -Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of -sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days. - -Terzolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter. - -Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head -_France_ - -Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam. - -Tête de Moine, Monk's Head -_France_ - -A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer -Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay. - -Tête de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head. - -"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" -_Scotland_ - -Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme -that exposes it: - - The first love token ye gae me - Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. - O wae be to the tempting cheese, - The tempting cheese of Fyvie, - Gat me forsake my ain gude man - And follow a fottman laddie. - -Texel - -Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of -Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands. - -Thenay -_Vendôme, France_ - -Resembles Camembert and Vendôme. - -Thion -_Switzerland_ - -A fine Emmentaler. - -Three Counties -_Ireland_ - -An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most -of the Irish cheese. - -Thuringia Caraway -_Germany_ - -A hand cheese spiked with caraway. - -Thyme -_Syria_ - -Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other -herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, -Hazebrook II. - -Tibet -_Tibet_ - -The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of -sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to -string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. -They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, -in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.) - -Tignard -_Savoy, France_ - -Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in -Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel. - -Tijuana -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town. - -Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4. - -Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit -_Germany_ - -This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. -Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open -texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is -stronger and coarser. - -Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to -imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a -good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, -and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations. - -The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a -good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial -dallying." - -Tilziski -_Yugoslavia_ - -A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter. - -Tome de Beaumont -_France_ - -Whole cow's milk. - -Tome, la -_Auvergne, France_ - -Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar -that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, -etc. - -Tome de Chèvre -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft goat cheese. - -Tome de Savoie -_France_ - -Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des -Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane. - -Tomelitan Gruyère -_Norway_ - -Imitation of French Gruyère in 2-1/2 ounce packages. - -Topf or Topfkäse -_Germany_ - -A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk -cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it -is flaky. - -Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a -table cheese. - -Toscanello -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -A smaller edition of Toscano. - -Touareg -_Berber, Africa_ - -Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then -dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or -placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and -never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber -tribes. - -Tour Eiffel -_Berry, France_ - -Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque -label and trademark for a brand of Camembert. - -Touloumisio -_Greece_ - -Similar to Feta. - -Tournette -_France_ - -Small goat cheese. - -Tourne de chèvre -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat cheese. - -Trappe, la, or Oka -_Canada_ - -Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian -monastery. - -Trappist _see_ Chapter 3. - -Trappist -_Yugoslavia_ - -Trappist Port-Salut imitation. - -Trauben (Grape) -_Switzerland_ - -Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the -grape. - -Travnik, Travnicki -_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_ - -Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally -skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and -adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and -Vlasic. - -When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It -ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and -is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type -when aged is characteristically oily and sharp. - -Traz os Montes -_Portugal_ - -Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically -named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit -muttony, but none of it at all tallowy. - -Trecce -_Italy_ - -Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh. - -Triple Aurore -_France_ - -Normandy cheese in season all the year around. - -Troo -_France_ - -Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January. - -Trouville -_France_ - -Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality. - -Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy. - -Truckles -_England_ - -No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue -Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. -On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a -handout: - - Pray, dame, something, - An apple or a dumpling, - Or a piece of Truckle cheese - Of your own making. - -No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar -put up in loaves. - -Tschil -_Armenia_ - -Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or -cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is -drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil. - -Tuile de Flandre -_France_ - -A type of Marolles. - -Tullum Penney -_Turkey_ - -Salty from being soaked in brine. - -Tuna, Prickly Pear -_Mexico_ - -Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and -straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike -consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when -hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or -flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or -confection in Mexico for centuries. - -Tuscano -_Italy_ - -Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan. - -Twdr Sir -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. -Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to -Brick or Limburger. - -Twin Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, -Wisconsin. - -Tworog -_Russia_ - -Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese -bread called Notruschki. - -Tybo -_Denmark_ - -Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk. - -Tyrol Sour -_German_ - -A typical Tyrolean hand cheese. - -Tzgone -_Dalmatia_ - -The opposite number of Tzigen, just below. - -Tzigenkäse -_Austria_ - -Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; -originated in Dalmatia. - - -U - -Urda -_Rumania_ - -Creamy; sweet; mild. - -Uri -_Switzerland_ - -Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight -to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds. - -Urseren -_Switzerland_ - -Mild flavored. Cooked curd. - -Urt, Fromage d' - -Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country. - - -V - -Vacherin -_France and Switzerland_ - -I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft -interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches -in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is -almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the -hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny -than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on -bread. The local name is Tome de Montague. - -II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called -Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our -conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e." - -Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for -the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss -classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin. - -Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du -_Andorra, France_ - -Sheep milk. - -Valdeblore, le -_Nice, France_ - -Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese. - -Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay -_Touraine, France_ - -Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to -December. This was a favorite with Francis I. - -Valio -_Finland_ - -One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss -cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, -Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real -cheese is. - -Valsic -_Albania_ - -Crumbly and sharp. - -Varalpenland -_Germany_ - -Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and -smell. - -Varennes, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Västerbottenost -_West Bothnia_ - -Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, -almost bitter taste. - -Västgötaost -_West Gothland, Sweden_ - -Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty -to thirty pounds. - -Vendôme, Fromage de -_France_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under -ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris. - -Veneto, Venezza -_Italy_ - -Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp. - -Vic-en-Bigorre -_France_ - -Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May. - -Victoria -_England_ - -The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford. - -Ville Saint-Jacques -_France_ - -Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May. - -Villiers -_France_ - -Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne. - -Viry-vory, or Vary -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Viterbo -_Italy_ - -Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. -Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino -family. - -Vize -_Greece_ - -Ewe's milk; suitable for grating. - -Void -_Meuse, France_ - -Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. - -Volvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% -fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.) - -Vorarlberg Sour-milk -_Greasy_ - -Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong -flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk. - -Vory, le -_France_ - -Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse. - - -W - -Warshawski Syr -_Poland_ - -Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland. - -Warwickshire -_England_ - -Derbyshire type. - -Washed-curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any -abnormal flavors. - -Wedesslborg -_Denmark_ - -A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully -ripened. - -Weisschmiere -_Bavaria, Germany_ - -Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four -months. - -Weisslacker, White Lacquer -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and -rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of -Germany's finest soft cheeses. - -Welsh cheeses - -The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh -"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at -one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream -cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same -delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John -Keats. - -"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer -available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because -it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen -into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such -wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by -Rhys Davies.) - -Wensleydale -_England_ - - I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to -Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the -Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June -to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, -but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put -on. - -II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through -the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made -(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and -winter. - -Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse -_West Prussia_ - -Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda. - -West Friesian -_Netherlands_ - -Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of -it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet: - - Good bread, good butter and good cheese - Is good English and good Friese. - -Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is -mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the -richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of -about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put -down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the -seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, -like Limburger, before pressing. - -This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so -soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and -Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was -perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago. - -The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the -name Briol. - -Whale Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which -the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the -possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as -petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after -milking the whales. - -White, Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten -fresh, with or without salt. - -White Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. -Green Bay brand is a fine example of it. - -White Gorgonzola - -This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known -outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.) - -White Stilton -_England_ - -This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic -veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag. - -Whitethorn -_Ireland_ - -Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except -that it is colored. - -Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch -_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_ - -Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at -Itzehoe. - -Wiltshire or Wilts -_England_ - -A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North -Wilts.) - -Wisconsin Factory Cheeses -_U.S.A._ - -Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the -age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American -Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but -most of it is sold green when far too young. - -Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss. - -Withania -_India_ - -Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet -from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This -names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, -it becomes acrid with age. - - -Y - -Yoghurt, or Yogurt -_U.S.A._ - -Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the -milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel. - -York, York Curd and Cambridge York -_England_ - -A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are -becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too -rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which -it is cured, for local consumption. - -Yorkshire-Stilton -_Cotherstone, England_ - -This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine -internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general -favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung. - -York State -_U.S.A._ - -Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars. - -Young America -_U.S.A._ - -A mild, young, yellow Cheddar. - -Yo-yo -_U.S.A._ - -Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on -strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped -like a yo-yo. - - -Z - -Ziegel -_Austria_ - -Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months. - -Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. -Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse. - -Ziger - - I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food -made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, -Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are -flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey -bread. - -II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of -whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes. - -Zips _see_ Brinza. - -Zomma -_Turkey_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. - -Zwirn _see_ Tschil. - - - - -[Illustration] - -Index of Recipes - -American Cheese Salad, 128 -Angelic Camembert, 120 -Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 -Apple Pie à la Cheese, 119 -Apple Pie Adorned, 119 -Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 -Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 -au Gratin - Eggs, 125 - Potatoes, 125 - Tomatoes, 125 - -Blintzes, 111 -Brie or Camembert Salad, 128 - -Camembert, Angelic, 120 -Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 -Cheddar Omelet, 135 -Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 -Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 -Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 -Cheese Charlotte, 133 -Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 -Cheese Custard, 118 -Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 -Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 -Cheese Waffles, 112 -Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 -Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 -Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 -Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 -Cold Dunking, 133 -Custard, Cheese, 118 - -Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 -Diablotins, 135 -Dumpling, Napkin, 112 -Dunking, Cold, 133 - -Eggs au Gratin, 125 - -Flan au Fromage, 119 -Fondue - à l'Italienne, 84 - All-American, 85 - au Fromage, 90 - Baked Tomato, 89 - Brick, 92 - Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 - Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 - Cheese, 92 - Cheese, and Corn, 92 - Cheese and Rice, 91 - Chives, 88 - Comtois, 88 - Corn and Cheese, 92 - Neufchâtel Style, 82 - 100% American, 90 - Parmesan, 86 - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 - Rice, and Cheese, 91 - Sapsago Swiss, 86 - Tomato, 89 - Tomato Baked, 89 - Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 -Fritters, Italian, 109 -Fritto Misto, Italian, 137 - -Garlic on Cheese, 110 -Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 -Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - -Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 -Italian Fritters, 109 -Italian Fritto Misto, 137 -Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108 - -Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108 - -Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 -Miniature Pizzas, 107 - -Napkin Dumpling, 112 -Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108 - -Omelet - Cheddar, 135 - Meal-in-One, 135 - Parmesan, 135 - Tomato, 136 - with Cheese Sauce, 136 -Onion Soup, 126 -Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 -Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118 - -Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 -Parmesan Omelet, 135 -Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 -Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, 134 -Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 -Piroghs, Polish, 137 -Pizza, 106 - Cheese, 107 - Dough, 106 - Miniature, 107 - Tomato Paste, 107 -Polish Piroghs, 137 -Potatoes au Gratin, 125 -Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 -Puffs - Breakfast, 100 - Cheese, New England, 100 - Cream Cheese, 100 - Danish Fondue, 100 - Fried, 99 - New England Cheese, 100 - Parmesan, 99 - Roquefort, 99 - Three-in-One, 98 - -Rabbit - After-Dinner, 55 - All-American Succotash, 77 - American Woodchuck, 63 - Anchovy, 70 - Asparagus, 68 - Basic - No. 1 (with beer), 49 - No. 2 (with milk), 50 - Blushing Bunny, 63 - Border-hopping Bunny, 60 - "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 - Buttermilk, 76 - Celery and Onion, 67 - Chipped Beef, 66 - Cream Cheese, 75 - Crumby, 70 - Crumby Tomato, 71 - Curry, 76 - Danish, 77 - Devil's Own, The, 65 - Dr. Maginn's, 54 - Dried Beef, 66 - Dutch, 72 - Easy English, 78 - Eggnog, 77 - Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 - Fluffy, Eggy, 64 - Frijole, 60 - Gherkin, 71 - Ginger Ale, 76 - Golden Buck, 59 - Golden Buck II, 59 - Grilled Sardine, 69 - Grilled Tomato, 65 - Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 - Gruyère, 73 - Kansas Jack, 66 - Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 - Latin-American Corn, 67 - Mexican Chilaly, 64 - Mushroom-Tomato, 67 - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Original Recipe, Ye, 57 - Oven, 58 - Oyster, 68 - Pink Poodle, 74 - Pumpernickel, 72 - Reducing, 75 - Roe, 69 - Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 - Running, 63 - Sardine, Grilled, 69 - Sardine, Plain, 69 - Savory Eggy Dry, 75 - Scotch Woodcock, 63 - Sea-food, 68 - Sherry, 73 - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Smoked Cheddar, 70 - Smoked fish, 70 - South African Tomato, 61 - Spanish Sherry, 74 - Stieff Recipe, The, 51 - Swiss Cheese, 73 - Tomato, 61 - Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 - Tomato, Crumby, 71 - Tomato, Grilled, 65 - Tomato Soup, 62 - Tomato, South American, 61 - Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 - Yale College, 59 - Yorkshire, 58 -Ramekins - à la Parisienne, 103 - Casserole, 105 - Cheese I, 101 - Cheese II, 102 - Cheese III, 102 - Cheese IV, 103 - Frying Pan, 105 - Morézien, 104 - Puff Paste, 105 - Roquefort-Swiss, 104 - Swiss-Roquefort, 104 -Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 -Roquefort, Champagned, 122 -Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 -Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129 - -Salad - American Cheese, 128 - Apple and Cheese, 130 - Brie, 128 - Camembert, 128 - Cheese and Nut, 128 - Cheese and Pea, 130 - Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 - Swiss Cheese, 129 - Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Sandwiches - Alpine Club, 141 - Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 - Cheeseburgers, 141 - Deviled Rye, 142 - Egg, Open-faced, 142 - French-fried Swiss, 142 - Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 - He-man, Open-faced, 143 - International, 143 - Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises, 143 - Kümmelkäse, 143 - Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 - Meringue, Open-faced, 144 - Neufchâtel and Honey, 144 - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 - Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 - Pickled Camembert, 145 - Queijo da Serra, 145 - Roquefort Nut, 145 - Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 - Tangy, 146 - Toasted Cheese, 148 - Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 - Vegetarian, 146 - Witch's, 147 - Xochomilco, 147 - Yolk Picnic, 147 -Sauce - Cheese, 131 - Mornay, 131 - Parsleyed Cheese, 131 -Sauce Mornay, 131 -Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 -Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 -Soufflé - Basic, 95 - Cheese-Corn, 96 - Cheese Fritter, 98 - Cheese-Mushroom, 97 - Cheese-Potato, 97 - Cheese-Sea-food, 97 - Cheese-Spinach, 96 - Cheese-Tomato, 96 - Corn-Cheese, 96 - Mushroom-Cheese, 97 - Parmesan, 95 - Parmesan-Swiss, 96 - Potato-Cheese, 97 - Sea-food-Cheese, 97 - Spinach-Cheese, 96 - Swiss, 96 - Tomato-Cheese, 96 -Soup - Chicken Cheese, 127 - Onion, 126 - Onion, au Gratin, 126 - Supa Shetgia, 133 -Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 -Straws, 133 -Stuffed Celery, 132 -Supa Shetgia, 133 -Swiss Cheese Salad, 129 - -Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Tomato Omelet, 136 -Tomatoes au Gratin, 125 - -Vatroushki, 111 - -Waffles, Cheese, 112 - - - - -ABOUT THE AUTHOR - - * * * * * - -Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and -enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New -York and summed them all up in this book. - -Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and -entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number -of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching -their students how to hole an Emmentaler. - -After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob -celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be -Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, -Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose -on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five -years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's -dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, -Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_. - -For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de -Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 -to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials -under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, -_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first -five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties. - -In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent -in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled -down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the -Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his -_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, -while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, -that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ -and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude -Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._ - -The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he -returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There -he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of -thirty books bearing his name. - -After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their -mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where -he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his -free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a -score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book -business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other -out-of-the-way items. - -[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, -removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references -to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.] - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293-8.txt or 14293-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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