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diff --git a/old/14293-8.txt b/old/14293-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5de4446..0000000 --- a/old/14293-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14321 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Complete Book of Cheese, by Robert Carlton Brown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -BOB BROWN - - -The Complete Book -of Cheese - - -_Illustrations by_ Eric Blegvad - -[Illustration] - -_Gramercy Publishing Company - -New York_ -1955 - - -_Author of_ - -THE WINE COOK BOOK - -AMERICA COOKS - -10,000 SNACKS - -SALADS AND HERBS - -THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK - -SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES - -THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK - -LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK! - -THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK - -THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ - -MOST FOR YOUR MONEY - -OUTDOOR COOKING - -FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK - -THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK - -_Co-author of Food and Drink Books by_ The Browns - -LET THERE BE BEER! - -HOMEMADE HILARITY - - - - -[Illustration: TO] - -TO - -PHIL - -ALPERT - -_Turophile Extraordinary_ - - - - -[Illustration: Contents] - -1 I Remember Cheese - -2 The Big Cheese - -3 Foreign Greats - -4 Native Americans - -5 Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - -6 The Fondue - -7 Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - -8 Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes and Cheese Cake - -9 Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - -10 Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - -11 "Fit for Drink" - -12 Lazy Lou - - -APPENDIX--The A-B-Z of Cheese - -INDEX OF RECIPES - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter One_ - -I Remember Cheese - - -Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the -cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the -millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with a -hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of judging a -crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness for centuries. -The abracadabra is comparable to that of the wine-taster or -tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear of music-masters and, -merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down to an air pocket left by a -gas bubble just how mature the interior is. - -The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and I, too, -that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread handy and made my -way from one fine cheese to another, trying out generous plugs from -the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at -Antietam. - -I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I -stocked up on good Schweizerkäse and better Gruyère. For lunch I had -cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound -Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little café, -absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal quantities. I learned that a -prize cheese must be chock-full of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes -produced during fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar -glass. The cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its -flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement each other -as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There are, I learned, -"blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the million-eyed ones are better. - -But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for cheese -memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over the cheeses of -all nations, first importing them, then imitating them, from Swiss -Engadine to what we call Genuine Sprinz. We've naturalized -Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns and baptized our own Saaland -Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty popular Italian types we duplicate -more than half, some fairly well, others badly. - -We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the -Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield -County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy Neufchâtel, New York Coon, -Vermont Sage, the delicious Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and -dozens of others, not all quite so original. - -And, true to the American way, we've organized cheese-eating. There's -an annual cheese week, and a cheese month (October). We even boast a -mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month Club. We haven't yet reached the point -of sophistication, however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets -regularly. To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred -basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded. - -This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I -have during the past year or two been sharpening my cheese perception -with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run -into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like -Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is one of -the greatest--and least competitively crowded--of sports. I hope this -book may lead others to give it a try. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Two_ - -The Big Cheese - - -One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed in at four -tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years ago. Another -monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in the New York State -Fair at Syracuse in 1937. - -Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way from New -Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of 1924. But, -compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a Baby Gouda. As a -matter of fact, neither England nor any of her great dairying colonies -have gone in for mammoth jobs, except Canada, with that four-tonner -shown at Toronto. - -We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can find out -all about them in _Cheddar Gorge,_ edited by Sir John Squire. The -first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the -year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its -heft almost tied the 147-pound Green County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss -presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation -of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 -percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under 150, His Royal -Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed high hat and all, was a -hundred-weight heavier, and thus almost dwarfed it. - -It was almost a century later that the second record-breaking Chester -weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it won a Gold Medal and a -Challenge Cup and was presented to the King, who graciously accepted -it. This was more than Queen Victoria had done with a bridal gift -cheese that tipped the scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's -yield from 780 contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, -measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The assembled -donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they asked royal -permission to exhibit it on a round of country fairs. The Queen -assented to this ambitious request, perhaps prompted by the -exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking cheesemongers assured -Her Majesty that the gift would be returned to her just as soon as it -had been exhibited. But the Queen didn't want it back after it was -show-worn. The donors began to quarrel among themselves about what to -do with the remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many -lost causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again. - -While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the better, -(much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is better than a pint), -there is a limit to the obesity of a block, ball or brick of almost -any kinds of cheese. When they pass a certain limit, they lack -homogeneity and are not nearly so good as the smaller ones. Today a -good magnum size for an exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize -Provolone, 280 pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw -crowds to any food-shop window. - -Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese Hall of -Fame and come down to us in song and story. For example, that four-ton -Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, James McIntyre, who doubled as -the local undertaker. - - We have thee, mammoth cheese, - Lying quietly at your ease; - Gently fanned by evening breeze, - Thy fair form no flies dare seize. - - All gaily dressed soon you'll go - To the greatest provincial show, - To be admired by many a beau - In the city of Toronto. - - May you not receive a scar as - We have heard that Mr. Harris - Intends to send you off as far as - The great world's show at Paris. - - Of the youth beware of these, - For some of them might rudely squeeze - And bite your cheek; then song or glees - We could not sing, oh, Queen of Cheese. - -An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was inspired by "The -Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of Cheshire." This was in the -summer of 1801 when the patriotic people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, -turned out en masse to concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green -for presentation to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique -demonstration occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the -greatest political triumph of a new country in a new century--the -victory of the Democrats over the Federalists. Its collective making -was heralded in Boston's _Mercury and New England Palladium_, -September 8, 1801: - - _The Mammoth Cheese_ - - AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD - - From meadows rich, with clover red, - A thousand heifers come; - The tinkling bells the tidings spread, - The milkmaid muffles up her head, - And wakes the village hum. - - In shining pans the snowy flood - Through whitened canvas pours; - The dyeing pots of otter good - And rennet tinged with madder blood - Are sought among their stores. - - The quivering curd, in panniers stowed, - Is loaded on the jade, - The stumbling beast supports the load, - While trickling whey bedews the road - Along the dusty glade. - - As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred, - The arid deserts roam, - Through trackless sands undaunted tread, - With skins of water on their head - To cheer their masters home, - - So here full many a sturdy swain - His precious baggage bore; - Old misers e'en forgot their gain, - And bed-rid cripples, free from pain, - Now took the road before. - - The widow, with her dripping mite - Upon her saddle horn, - Rode up in haste to see the sight - And aid a charity so right, - A pauper so forlorn. - - The circling throng an opening drew - Upon the verdant-grass - To let the vast procession through - To spread their rich repast in view, - And Elder J. L. pass. - - Then Elder J. with lifted eyes - In musing posture stood, - Invoked a blessing from the skies - To save from vermin, mites and flies, - And keep the bounty good. - - Now mellow strokes the yielding pile - From polished steel receives, - And shining nymphs stand still a while, - Or mix the mass with salt and oil, - With sage and savory leaves. - - Then sextonlike, the patriot troop, - With naked arms and crown, - Embraced, with hardy hands, the scoop, - And filled the vast expanded hoop, - While beetles smacked it down. - - Next girding screws the ponderous beam, - With heft immense, drew down; - The gushing whey from every seam - Flowed through the streets a rapid stream, - And shad came up to town. - -This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated today by -a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of Cheshire, located -between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route 8. - -Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of Cheshire -rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a token of fidelity -from the very heart of the people of this land to the great cause of -equal rights to all men." - -This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren -succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar mammoth cheese in -token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger -than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their -loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the -hall of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the -fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had eaten their -fill. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Three_ - -Foreign Greats - - _Ode to Cheese_ - - - God of the country, bless today Thy cheese, - For which we give Thee thanks on bended knees. - Let them be fat or light, with onions blent, - Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether scent - Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard - Let them, good Lord, at dawn be beaten hard. - And let their edges take on silvery shades - Under the moist red hands of dairymaids; - And, round and greenish, let them go to town - Weighing the shepherd's folding mantle down; - Whether from Parma or from Jura heights, - Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites, - Stamped with the mitre of a proud abbess. - Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of Bresse, - From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, - From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy! - Bless them, good Lord! Bless Stilton's royal fare, - Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyère. - - FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S TRANSLATION - OF A POEM BY M. Thomas Braun - - _Symphonie des Fromages_ - - A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with an ax, - stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss Gruyère - resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot There were Dutch Edams, - round and blood-red, and Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on - parade. Three Bries, side by side, suggested phases of the moon; - two of them, very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the - third, in its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And all the - while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely contempt upon - the other, through the glass of their crystal covers. - - Emile Zola - -In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture published Handbook -No. 54, entitled _Cheese Varieties and Descriptions,_ with this -comment: "There probably are only about eighteen distinct types or -kinds of natural cheese." All the rest (more than 400 names) are of -local origin, usually named after towns or communities. A list of the -best-known names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups -is given: - - Brick Gouda Romano - Camembert Hand Roquefort - Cheddar Limburger Sapsago - Cottage Neufchâtel Swiss - Cream Parmesan Trappist - Edam Provolone Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta) - - -May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We -begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and -end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that -includes Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred. - - -The Blues that Are Green - -Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that rules a -world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as green as the -mythical cheese the moon is made of. - -In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a handful of -lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three and try to -classify them, until you're blue in the face. The best we can do in -this slight summary is to mention a few of the most notable, aside -from our own Blues of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and other states -that major in cheese. - -Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as "Flower of -Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass Blue all its own. -But France and England are the leaders in this line, France first with -a sort of triple triumvirate within a triumvirate--Septmoncel, Gex, -and Sassenage, all three made with three milks mixed together: cow, -goat and sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura -mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank -Roquefort. - -This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage persillé, as -well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. Similar mountain cheeses are made -in Auvergne and Aubrac and have distinct qualities that have brought -them fame, such as Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de -Salers, and St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color -scheme, and sundry others such as Champoléon, Journiac, Queyras and -Sarraz. - -Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and -Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early days, and still -is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and -esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the -favorite of Thomas Hardy. - - -Brie - -Sheila Hibben once wrote in _The New Yorker:_ - -I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen -of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly -ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly -fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you -down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or -at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come -on the tenth Brie, _coulant_ to just the right, delicate creaminess, -and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with -it. - -The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only -months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar -none. - - -Caciocavallo - -From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo -translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the -Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations -are made and named after it, as follows: - - BULGARIA: Kascaval - - GREECE: Kashcavallo and Caskcaval - - HUNGARY: Parenica - - RUMANIA: Pentele and Kascaval - - SERBIA: Katschkawalj - - SYRIA: Cashkavallo - - TRANSYLVANIA: Kascaval (as in Rumania) - - TURKEY: Cascaval Penir - - YUGOSLAVIA: Kackavalj - -A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its popular name and -to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It is, however, curded -from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, and sometimes from water -buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery that the best of it, which comes -from Sorrento, is called _Cacio burro,_ butter cheese. Slightly salty, -with a spicy tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for -grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian pastes -but on sweets. - -Different from the many grating cheeses made from little balls of curd -called _grana_, Caciocavallo is a _pasta fileta_, or drawn-curd -product. Because of this it is sometimes drawn out in long thick -threads and braided. It is a cheese for skilled artists to make -sculptures with, sometimes horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and -other fruits, even as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and -often worked into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the -horse's head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob -on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a time, on -opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly golden and -rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the more buttery. - -In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the best comes -from Sorrento, there is keen competition from Abruzzi, Apulian -Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't spoil when shipped -overseas. - -In his _Little Book of Cheese_ Osbert Burdett recommends the high, -horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over tobacco smoke after dinner: - - Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me that - Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, some pungency - is necessary, and confidence suggests rather Cacio which would - survive anything, the monster said. - -Camembert - -Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine is labeled -_Syndicat du Vrai Camembert_. The name in full is _Syndicat des -Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de Normandie_ and we agree that this -is "a most useful association for the defense of one of the best -cheeses of France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, -except perhaps by Brie. - -Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the waitress who -first served it to him in the tiny town of Camembert. And there a -statue stands today in the market place to honor Marie Harel who made -the first Camembert. - -Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, pineapple, pear, -French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie and with oysters, -Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" months, and of these -September is the best. - -Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the _véritable_ -don't fall for a domestic imitation or any West German abomination -such as one dressed like a valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled -"Camembert--Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, chalky with -youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and decrepit. - -Cheddar - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ says: - - Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale coloured, - mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a hazelnut in flavour. - The Cheddar principle pervades the whole cheesemaking districts - of America, Canada and New Zealand, but no cheese imported into - England can equal the Cheddars of Somerset and the West of - Scotland. - -Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first -manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse Cheddar, but in -America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be -ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our -American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote -that it "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, -according to magnitude) with any cheese in England." - -Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second after -Stilton, of course. - -In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of family -feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can be kept for -two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool room and turned -over every other day." - -But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... I asked -one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her eyes twinkled: -'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'" - -Cheshire - -A Cheshireman sailed into Spain -To trade for merchandise; -When he arrived from the main -A Spaniard him espies. -Who said, "You English rogue, look here! -What fruits and spices fine -Our land produces twice a year. -Thou has not such in thine." - -The Cheshireman ran to his hold -And fetched a Cheshire cheese, -And said, "Look here, you dog, behold! -We have such fruits as these. -Your fruits are ripe but twice a year, -As you yourself do say, -But such as I present you here -Our land brings twice a day." - -Anonymous - - Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far - too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the inn, of the - chophouse, of the average English home, is a libel on a thing - which, when authentic, is worthy of great honor. Cheshire, - divinely commanded into existence as to three parts to precede - and as to one part to accompany certain Tawny Ports and some - Late-Bottled Ports, can be a thing for which the British Navy - ought to fire a salute on the principle on which Colonel Brisson - made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian - vineyard. - - T. Earle Welby, - - IN "THE DINNER KNELL" - -Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, but the -oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar conquered Britain, and -tradition is that the Romans built the walled city of Chester to -control the district where the precious cheese was made. Chester on -the River Dee was a stronghold against the Roman invasion. - -It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan times and -waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the Fleet Street Inn -where White Cheshire was served "with radishes or watercress or celery -when in season," and Red Cheshire was served toasted or stewed in a -sort of Welsh Rabbit. (_See_ Chapter 5.) - -The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in -_Cheddar Gorge_ suggests that "it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, -discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that -accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in -Alice in Wonderland." - -All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet: - - _Dans le Chester sec et rose - A longues dents, l'Anglais mord._ - - In the Chester dry and pink - The long teeth of the English sink. - -Edam and Gouda - _Edam in Peace and War_ - -There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men -on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, -excellent cheeses. - -Pepys' _Diary_, March 2,1663 - - Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of - the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland - cheese for cannon balls. - - _The Harbinger_ (Vermont), December 11, 1847 - -The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world. -Known as "red balls" in England and _katzenkopf,_ "cat's head," in -Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being -round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas. - -Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is -horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the -ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese -potted with sauterne. Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to -develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for -Edam. - -The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed -(black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of -Friesland and Noord Holland). - -The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, -come from South Holland. Some are specially made for the Jewish trade -and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes -thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on -black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're -also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa. - -"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides. - -Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss - - When the working woman - Takes her midday lunch, - It is a piece of Gruyère - Which for her takes the place of roast. - -Victor Meusy - -Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkäse, grand Gruyère from -France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and -glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making -and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size -of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye -of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear. - -Gruyère does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen -cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them; -let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This -variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes -at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles. - -Gruyère Trauben (Grape Gruyère) is aged in Neuchâtel wine in -Switzerland, although most Gruyère has been made in France since its -introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and -another is called Comté from its origin in Franche-Comté. - -A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to Italy where -it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese called Raper, and -now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, in fact, because of its -piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable quality, is simulated -everywhere, even in Switzerland. - -Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as Finland, we -get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with -all possible faults--from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly -cheese, to too few--cracked, dried-up, collapsed or utterly ruined by -molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked -genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six -years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever. - -Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in cheese -cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in France), and -it is said that the rank of a family is determined by the age and -quality of the cheese in its larder. - - -Feta and Casere - -The Greeks have a name for it--Feta. Their neighbors call it Greek -cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to honey. The two together -make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and as blinding white as a plate of -fresh Ricotta smothered with sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by -shipping the cheese all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of -milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in -brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat -sharp, but superbly spicy. - -When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping -through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos -Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then -compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This -gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made -us bleat for more Feta. - - -Gorgonzola - -Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including -Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all -other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many -epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the -highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it -has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when -fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich -green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is -eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort. - - -Hablé Crème Chantilly - -The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is -Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package: -"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful -freshness." - -This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was hailed by Sheila -Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as -Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a -new star: - - Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest - that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a historic event and that - in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that - the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady - of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on - the first Camembert. - -Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la crème made in -Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish -triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is -a very special product that has never been made on this earth before," -and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, -"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor -combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have -come my way in a long time." - -And so say we--all of us. - -Hand Cheese - -Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we -consider it great, but because it is usually included among the -eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is -named from having been molded into its final shape by hand. -Universally popular with Germanic races, it is too strong for the -others. To our mind, Hand cheese never had anything that Allgäuer or -Limburger hasn't improved upon. - -It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of beer and -drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with caraway seeds, the -most natural spice for curds. - - -Limburger - -Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it was -brought over by German-American immigrants; but England never took to -it. This is eloquently expressed in the following entry in the English -_Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_: - - Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently offensive - odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed to partially - decompose before pressing. It is very little known in this - country, and might be less so with advantage to consumers. - -But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has brought -gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes since it came to -light in the province of Lüttich in Belgium. It has been Americanized -for almost a century and is by now one of the very few cheeses -successfully imitated here, chiefly in New York and Wisconsin. - -Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green -County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan -that was accustomed to park in the little town of Monroe where it was -marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump -the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were -left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The Limburger was -finally stored safely underground. - - -Livarot - -Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine of them -all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem dedicated to all the -great French cheeses, of which we give a free translation: - - In the dog days - In its overflowing dish - Livarot gesticulates - Or weeps like a child. - - -Münster - - At the diplomatic banquet - One must choose his piece. - All is politics, - A cheese and a flag. - - You annoy the Russians - If you take Chester; - You irritate the Prussians - In choosing Münster. - - -Victor Meusy - -Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, does not -fare well in England. Although over here we consider Münster far -milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in _When Madame -Cooks_ will have none of it: - -I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes -during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have -proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill -people permanently. - - -Neufchâtel - - If the cream cheese be white - Far fairer the hands that made them. - - Arthur Hugh Clough - -Although originally from Normandy, Neufchâtel, like Limburger, was so -long ago welcomed to America and made so splendidly at home here that -we may consider it our very own. All we have against it is that it has -served as the model for too many processed abominations. - -Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano - -Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on bread. But -when well aged, let us say up to a century, it becomes Rock of -Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for grating. It is easy to -believe that the so-called "Spanish cheese" used as a barricade by -Americans in Nicaragua almost a century ago was none other than the -almost indestructible Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy. - -The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. days with -the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers not only for its -energy value but as a convenient form of rations, since every army -travels on its stomach and can't go faster than its impedimenta. The -last notable mention of cheese in war was the name of the _Monitor_: -"A cheese box on a raft." - -Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, -sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups such as onion and -minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged. - -Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both Parmesan -and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in Argentina. Romano -and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names for the strong, -medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that sell for considerably -less. Most of it is now shipped from Sardinia. There are several -different kinds: Pecorino Dolce (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino -Romano Cacio, which relates it to Caciocavallo. - -Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of Pecorino are -soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., in her "Letter from -Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable _Little Book of Cheese_, writes: - - Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, had - provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread and a slab - of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any "thou" for either) ... - But that cheese was Paradise; and the flask was emptied, and a - wood dove cooing made you think that the flask's contents were in - a crystal goblet instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and - the cheese broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses. - - -Pont L'Evêque - -This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic made since -the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert cheese whose -excellence is brought out best by a sound claret or tawny port. - - -Port-Salut (_See_ Trappist) - - -Provolone - -Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as -Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and such great -ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here -because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable -in the Americas. - -With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is put up in -all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, pears, bells, a -regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of sizes, up to a monumental -hundred-pound bas-relief imported for exhibition purposes by Phil -Alpert. - - -Roquefort - -Homage to this _fromage!_ Long hailed as _le roi_ Roquefort, it has -filled books and booklets beyond count. By the miracle of _Penicillium -Roqueforti_ a new cheese was made. It is placed historically back -around the eighth century when Charlemagne was found picking out the -green spots of Persillé with the point of his knife, thinking them -decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, recorded in -their annals that when they regaled him with Roquefort (because it was -Friday and they had no fish) they also made bold to tell him he was -wasting the best part of the cheese. So he tasted again, found the -advice excellent and liked it so well he ordered two _caisses_ of it -sent every year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested -that it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with -blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening. - -Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from mice and -rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be expected to send an -escort of cats from their chalky caves to guard them--even for -Charlemagne. There is no telling how many cats were mustered out in -the caves, in those early days, but a recent census put the number at -five hundred. We can readily imagine the head handler in the caves -leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster -and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese -also employ cats to patrol their storage caves, Roquefort holds the -record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as -rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown -away but greatly prized. - - -Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese - -The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for whey -cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, a kind of -clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from Switzerland in a hard, -truncated cone wrapped in a piece of paper that says: - - To be used grated only - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese - Made of skimmed milk and herbs - - To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? Try the - contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading mixed with butter, - excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, spaghetti, potatoes, soup, - etc. Can be used in place of any other cheese. _Do not take too - much, you might spoil the flavor_. - -We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an envelope, -and to this day, six months later, the scent of Sapsago clings 'round -it still. - - -Stilton - - _Honor for Cheeses_ - - Literary and munching circles in London are putting quite a lot - of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton cheese. There is a - Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir John Squire at the head, and - already the boys are fighting. - - One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument. - - This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton itself, - although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a pretty effective - cheese-shaped figure and call it "Dolorosa." - - The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who first - introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group showing Mrs. - Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and introducing it, - while the Stilton curtsies.) - - T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a monument, - but wants to establish a Foundation for the Preservation of - Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this plan would depend - largely on the site selected for the treasure house and the cost - of obtaining a curator who could, or would, give his whole time - to the work. - - Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, agrees with - Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best form. - - "I should like," he says, "something irrelevant--gargoyles, - perhaps." - - I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there. - - I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this great - movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube Goldberg. - - If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be established - between England and America, although the exchange, in the case - of Stilton, would have to be all on England's side. - - We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while England - furnishes the cheese. - - There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two - countries. - - Robert Benchley, in _After 1903--What?_ - -When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an endless -after-dinner conversation piece to which England points with pride. -For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's -introduction to this book. - - -Taleggio and Bel Paese - -When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported Bel Paese -some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to America. But as the -years went on and imitations were made in many lands, Galbini deemed -it wise to set up his own factory in _our_ beautiful country. However, -the domestic Bel Paese and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino -just didn't have that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the -German copy called Schönland, after the original, or the French Fleur -des Alpes. - -Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked up the -market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini hit the -jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the sharpest, most -sophisticated pungence of them all. - - -Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka - -In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. Always of the -elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du Salut from the -original home of the Trappist monks in their chief French abbey, it is -also set apart from the ordinary Canadians under the name of Oka, from -the Trappist monastery there. It is made by Trappist monks all over -the world, according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist -Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in Kentucky. - -This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You can't go wrong -if you look for the monastery name stamped on, such as Harzé in -Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, -and so forth. - -Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without benefit -of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the Lion Brand. It -is one of the finest American cheeses in which we have ever sunk a -fang. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Four_ - -Native Americans - - -American Cheddars - -The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around Plymouth by -Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese from the homeland -but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof of our ability to -manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the fact that by 1790 we were -exporting it back to England. - -It was called Cheddar after the English original named for the village -of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it made a new name -for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the section of New York State -where it was first made best. Herkimer still equals its several -distinguished competitors, Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, -Pineapple, Sage, Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn. - -The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, Cheddar, while -here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its -prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese -because of its affinity for the all-American dessert. - -The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in Rome, New -York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer County Cheddar -already widely known, this established "New York" as the preferred -"store-boughten" cheese. - -An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer Wooden Nutmeg -Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting book, _They Broke the -Prairies_. A Yankee named Silvanus Ferris, "the most successful -dairyman of Herkimer County," in the first decades of the 1800's -teamed up with Robert Nesbit, "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They -bought from farmers in the region and sold in New York City. And -"according to the business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to -cheapen the cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a -bad market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived in -a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, the seller, -unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the market price, snapped -up the offer. - -Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market, -so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years -fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer, -Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack. - -Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured, -and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and -described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their -states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and -Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon -and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of -Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as -Cheddars at all, although they are basically that. - - -Brick - -Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives -America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too -close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its -crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more -distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our -opinion is less worth bragging about. - -It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and -melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its -taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this -has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most -appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To -make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added. - -About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County, -Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole -cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked -firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in -the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of -bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this -double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to -the confusion about which came first in originating the name. - -The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and -they ripen slowly, taking up to two months. - -We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from -Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York. - -Colorado Blackie Cheese - -A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese -map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles -Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. This is a proud new -American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in -England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable -characters all on their own. - - -Coon Cheese - -Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at a higher -temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from the growth of -mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more ordinary Cheddars to -make them look like Coon, which always brings a 10 percent premium -above the general run. - -Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from a host of -admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in Phineas Beck's -_Kitchen_, who raised it to the par of French immortals by calling it -Fromage de Coon. Clementine used it "with scintillating success in -countless French recipes which ended with the words _gratiner au four -et servir tres chaud_. She made _baguettes_ of it by soaking sticks -three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in lukewarm -milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs and browning -them instantaneously in boiling oil." - - -Herkimer County Cheese - -The standard method for making American Cheddar was established in -Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been rigidly maintained -down to this day. Made with rennet and a bacterial "starter," the curd -is cut and pressed to squeeze out all of the whey and then aged in -cylindrical forms for a year or more. - -Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, sharp and -nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale -orange color when it is properly aged. - - -Isigny - -Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It seems to be -extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, for it never meant -to be anything more than another Camembert, of which we have plenty of -imitation. - -Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect Isigny. -The curd was carefully prepared according to an original formula, -washed and rubbed and set aside to come of age. But when it did, alas, -it was more like Limburger than Camembert, and since good domestic -Limburger was then a dime a pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet -in shape the newborn resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. -So they cut it down and named it after the delicate French Creme -d'lsigny. - - -Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack - -Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California county -where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, and only now -takes its full name after sixty years of popularity on the West Coast. -Because it is little known in the East and has to be shipped so far, -it commands the top Cheddar price. - -Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto coloring. -It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it gets sharper -with age and more expensive because of storage costs. - - -Liederkranz - -No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and so -deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of Song." - -Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young delicatessen -keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an -imitation of Bismarck Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the -imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and -Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz singing -society, didn't feel like singing without it. But Emil's attempts at -imitation only added indigestion to their dejection, until one -day--_fabelhaft!_ One of those cheese dream castles in Spain came -true. He turned out a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow -little marvel that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old -Schlosskäse. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized Limburger, both a -man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious women adored. - -Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz customers. It soon -became as internationally known as tabasco from Texas or Parisian -Camembert which it slightly resembles. Borden's bought out Frey in -1929 and they enjoy telling the story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E -Day in Paris, sent to his family in Indiana, only a few miles from the -factory at Van Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was -"the finest cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, -there was Liederkranz. - -Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between -two foreign immortals in the following recipe: - - - Schnitzelbank Pot - -1 ripe Camembert cheese -1 Liederkranz -1/8 pound imported Roquefort -1/4 pound butter -1 tablespoon flour -1 cup cream -1/2 cup finely chopped olives -1/4 cup canned pimiento -A sprinkling of cayenne - - Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of Camembert - and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any thick part off, - or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the - Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix - into an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will - turn the cheese black in cooking. - - Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a smooth, - creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, and mix in the - olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle well with cayenne and - put into a pot to mellow for a few days, or much longer. - -The name _Schnitzelbank_ comes from "school bench," a game. This -snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party and stein songs. -It is also the affinity-spread with rye and pumpernickel, and may be -served in small sandwiches or on crackers, celery and such, to make -appetizing tidbits for cocktails, tea, or cider. - -Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is eaten best at -room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If kept in the -refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of hours before serving. -Since it is a natural cheese mixture, which has gone through no -process or doping with preservative, it will not keep more than two -weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is the sort of ideal the factory -processors shoot at with their olive-pimiento abominations. Once -you've potted your own, you'll find it gives the same thrill as -garnishing your own Liptauer. - - -Minnesota Blue - -The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the Mississippi, -in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has established a -distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the state. Although the -Roquefort process of France is followed and the cheese is inoculated -in the same way by mold from bread, it can never equal the genuine -imported, marked with its red-sheep brand, because the milk used in -Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, and the caves are sandstone instead of -limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right. - - -Pineapple - -Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its flavor, -although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is noticeable -near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate through to the -Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese have tampered with the -original, so today you can't be sure of anything except getting a -smaller size every year or two, at a higher price. Originally six -pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk to nearly six ounces. The proper -bright-orange, oiled and shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly -lemon. - -Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the side-board -under a silver bell also made to represent a pineapple. You cut a top -slice off the cheese, just as you would off the fruit, and there was a -rose-colored, fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a -special silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was -put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept the -cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the rind the -shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some salubrious cold -Fondue or salad. - -Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked harder, -Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net that makes -diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, simulating the sections of -the fruit. It is a pioneer American product with almost a century and -a half of service since Lewis M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in -Litchfield County, Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and -made a deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what -before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese. - -Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in old England, -also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the hanging up of -Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four -sustaining strings. - - - Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State - -The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called originally, -shows the several phases most cheeses have gone through, from their -simple, honest beginnings to commercialization, and sometimes back to -the real thing. - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ has an early Sage -recipe: - - This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and - greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it is given thus: - Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage leaves with an equal - quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze out the juice. Add this to - the extract of rennet and stir into the milk as much as your - taste may deem sufficient. Break the curd when it comes, salt it, - fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn - the cheese every day. - -_Fancy Cheese in America, lay_ Charles A. Publow, records the -commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a century or two -later, in 1910: - - Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar variety. Its - distinguishing features are a mottled green color and a sage - flavor. The usual method of manufacture is as follows: One-third - of the total amount of milk is placed in a vat by itself and - colored green by the addition of eight to twelve ounces of - commercial sage color to each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn - leaves (unavailable in England) or other substances are used for - coloring, the amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then - made up by the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the whey - the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, however, to mix - the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is - secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed - over the curd with an atomizer. The curd is then salted and - pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes. - - A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York State - College of Agriculture by simply dropping green coloring, made - from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after - milling. An even green mottling is thus easily secured without - additional labor. Sage flavoring extract is sprayed over the curd - by an atomizer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient - for a hundred pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses. - -A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) method: - - Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at present the - cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild sage because it has - the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, thujone, is diluted with - water, 250 parts to one, and either added to the milk or sprayed - over the curds, one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk. - -In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing today, we -wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this reply: - - Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best native - Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only one factory - making it and that is my friend, George Crowley's. He makes a - limited amount for my Vermont Country Store. It is the fine - old-time full cream cheese, flavored with real sage. - - On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get enough sage - cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin cheesemaker if he - would make some. Said he would but couldn't at that time--because - the alfalfa wasn't ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to - do with sage cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese - with a synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green." - - So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw George - Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We don't use - synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that." - - "Then what do you use, George?" I inquired. - - "We use real sage." - - "Why?" - - "Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic stuff." - -The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on it: - - Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to full - flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor recalling - smoked cheese, although not related in any way. Mildly resinous - like that Near East one packed in pine, suggesting the well-saged - dressing of a turkey. A round mouthful of luscious mellowness, - with a bouquet--a snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just - a soupçon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of herb to - delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is the _véritable - vert_, green cheese--the moon is made of it! _Vert véritable._ A - general favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for - generations of lusty crumblers. - - -Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese - -We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together with some -Vermont store cheese and some crackers. - - This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store cheese--it's been - in old country stores for generations and we have been pioneers - in spreading the word about it. It is, of course, a natural aged - cheese, no processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made - the same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and also has - holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages faster. - - Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth century - and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading cheesemaking - state in the Union? When I was a lad, every town in Vermont had - one or more cheese factories. Now there are only two left--not - counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese! - - The crackers are the old-time store cracker--every Vermonter - used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and - eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold - milk, with a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These crackers are - not sweet, not salt, and as such make a good base for - anything--swell with clam chowder, also with toasted cheese.... - - -Tillamook - -It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to record the -story of Oregon's great Tillamook. _The Cheddar Box_, by Dean Collins, -comes neatly boxed and bound in golden cloth stamped with a purple -title, like the rind of a real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled _Cheese -Cheddar_, and Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled -Tillamook and molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume -I from a noted _littérateur_, and never could get him to come across -with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from a note on the -flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an excellent cheese, full -cream and medium sharp, and a unique set of books in which Volume II -suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are to be tasted, others to be -swallowed, and some few to be chewed and digested.'" - - -Wisconsin Longhorn - -Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it is only -fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of national standard, -even though it's not nearly so fancy or high-priced as some of the -regional natives that can't approach its enormous output. It's one of -those all-purpose round cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. -We are specially partial to it. - -Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all of these -thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as -Wisconsin alone. - -Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional competitors -ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no annatto coloring has been -added, through Green Bay cheese to Wisconsin Redskin and Martha -Washington Aged, proudly set forth by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who -is said to have "won more prizes in forty years than any ten -cheesemakers put together." - -To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie cheese, -the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, recognizing the -truth of Eugene Field's jingle: - - Apple pie without cheese - Is like a kiss without a squeeze. - -Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made legal and -the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. It's still in -force: - - _Butter and cheese to be served._ Every person, firm or - corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or restaurant shall - serve with each meal for which a charge of twenty-five cents or - more is made, at least two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin butter - and two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin cheese. - -Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces so much -Swiss that the state is sometimes called Swissconsin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Five_ - -Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - - - That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even - now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all - its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, - metaphysics and poetry. - - Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE - - -Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch -your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your -Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden -_fromages_ such as Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures -thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the -Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, -to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no -matter how you slice it. - -Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American -trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe -marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled -red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the -traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are -out of focus, out of order and out of this world. - -Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by -braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these -degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer -or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down -with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank -goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum -Turn Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream. - -In view of all this, we can only look to the standard cookbooks for -salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, our thoughtful mothers, -wives and sweethearts who have saved the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If -it weren't for these Fanny Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal -Welsh Rabbit would be a lost art--lost in sporting male attempts to -improve upon the original. - -The girls are still polite about the whole thing and protectively -pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to "Rarebit" in their -culinary guides. We have heard that once a club of ladies in high -society tried to high-pressure the publishers of Mr. Webster's -dictionary to change the old spelling in their favor. Yet there is a -lot to be said for this more genteel and appetizing rendering of the -word, for the Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of -cheesemongery, male or female. - -Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more -than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of Rabbits: No. 1, -the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made -with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, -there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking -encyclopedias give up to a dozen variants. Actually there are easily -half a gross of valid ones in current esteem. - -The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid ingredient, but -both the beer and the milk are used only one way--warm, or anyway at -room temperature. And again for the two, there is but one traditional -cheese--Cheddar, ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This -is also called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin -Longhorn, mouse, and even rat. - -The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes dozens of -varieties under different names, regional or commercial. These are -easily identified as sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses: - - sight: Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's one of those - round cheeses that also tastes round in the mouth. - - hearing: By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a melon-picker, - can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready for the Rabbit. - When you hear your dealer say, "It's six months old or more," - enough said. - - smell: A scent as fresh as that of the daisies and herbs the - mother milk cow munched "will hang round it still." Also a slight - beery savor. - - touch: Crumbly--a caress to the fingers. - - taste: The quintessence of this fivefold test. Just cuddle a - crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the taste buds it's - prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's proof it will melt in - the pan. - -Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 -temperance alternative) we must point out that beer has a special -affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in -their names for Welsh Rabbit, _Fromage Fondue à la Bière_ and _Fondue -à l'Anglaise_. - -To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may have a -preference all his own, for here the question comes up of how it melts -best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, chop, cut, scrape or -crumble it in the fingers? This will vary according to one's -temperament and the condition of the cheese. Generally, for best -results it is coarsely grated. When it comes to making all this into a -rare bit of Rabbit there is: - - -The One and Only Method - -Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding aluminum -and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering water in the -lower one, but don't let the water boil up or touch the top pan. - -Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of butter or -margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly grated cheese, -usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with one-half cup of -liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't necessary for a cheese that -should melt by itself.) - -The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together and kept -from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction only, over an even -heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, sterling silver or -porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft metal--the taste may come -off to taint the job. - -Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and add it -gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let it come to -the bubbling point, and never let it boil. - -Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will take two or -three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an -instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is -smooth. The consistency and velvety smoothness depend a good deal on -whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added. - -The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle the top -with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any case set it forth -as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast hellishly hot, whether it's -browned or buttered on one side or both. - -Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name was -Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." Something very -similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to cool down--when it's -cold it's cold all over, and you can't resuscitate it by heating. - - -BASIC WELSH RABBIT - - No. 1 (with beer) - -2 tablespoons butter -3 cups grated old Cheddar -1/2 teaspoon English dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with -1/2 cup light beer or ale -4 slices hot buttered toast - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, stirring - steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon in one - direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt your rhythmic - stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of the beer-and-egg - mixture until it's all used up. - - It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve the - essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick it out as - smooth as velvet. - - Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit - is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of - cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting stringy or rubbery. - Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast - and serve instantly on hot plates. - -Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and some -aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side with cold -butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot plate, buttered -side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous untoasted side so it -can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady Llanover's recipe, which -appears on page 52 of this book.) - -Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, there is now -no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, -croutons and crackers, to infinity. - - - No. 2 (with milk) - -For a rich milk Rabbit use 1/2 cup thin cream, evaporated milk, -whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. Then, to -keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or leave -it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, the -use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our feeling is -that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out. - -Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and more -cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against stringiness. -When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that a teaspoon or so of -cornstarch generally takes its place. - -Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and stirring, -so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience and rhythm. As a -rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is almost melted, and speed -of stirring slows when the eggs and last ingredients go in. - -Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps up the -flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half -teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you -are fancy-free. As both black and white pepper are now held in almost -equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do -the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco -sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but some addicts can't -leave it out any more than they can swear off the Worcestershire. - -The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that goes for -milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So let us consider -the compromise of our old friend Frederick Philip Stieff, the -Baltimore _homme de bouche_, as he set it forth for us years ago in -_10,000 Snacks_: "The idea of cooking a Rabbit with beer is an -exploded and dangerous theory. Tap your keg or open your case of ale -or beer and serve _with_, not in your Rabbit." - - - The Stieff Recipe BASIC MILK RABBIT (_completely -surrounded by a lake of malt beverages_) - -2 cups grated sharp cheese -3 heaping tablespoons butter -1-1/2 cups milk -4 eggs -1 heaping tablespoon mustard -2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce -Pepper, salt and paprika to taste--then add more of each. - - Grease well with butter the interior of your double boiler so - that no hard particles of cheese will form in the mixture later - and contribute undesirable lumps. - - Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add butter - and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should be indulged in - until Rabbit is ready for serving. - - Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, pepper, salt - and paprika. These should be beaten until light and then slowly - poured into the double boiler. Nothing now remains to be done - except to stir and cook down to proper consistency over a fairly - slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the - rabbit from the spoon and spell the word _finis_ on the surface. - Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who - does not attack it at once. - - This is sufficient for six gourmets or four gourmands. - -_Nota bene_: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should never be of the -consistency whereby it may be used to tie up bundles, nor yet should -it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor. - - - Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit - - Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and cow's - milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so much as to - drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread less than 1/4 - inch thick, to be quite crisp, and spread it very thinly with - fresh, cold butter on the toasted side. (It must not be - saturated.) Lay the toasted cheese upon the untoasted bread side - and serve immediately on a very hot plate. The butter on the - toast can, of course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten - without butter.) - -From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen still call -Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover goes on to point out -that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and the Melted or Stewed Buck -Rabbit of England (which has become our American standard) are as -different in the making as the regional cheeses used in them, and she -says that while doctors prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for -invalids, the stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to -strong digestions." - -English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese of Wales -and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent "threads of -unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments (that may be pulled -from its tough and tenacious substance)." - -Yet not all of the references are complimentary. - -Thus Shakespeare in _King Lear_: - - Look, look a mouse! - Peace, peace;--this piece of toasted cheese will do it. - -And Sydney Smith's: - - Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted - meat has led to suicide. - -But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: - - _The Welsh Enter Heaven_ - - The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth of good - singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear excellent - singing outside the walls. Why are not those singers here with - me?" - - St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they - say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" - - The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and - Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." - - St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands of the - Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, St. Peter went - to consult with St. David, who, with a smile, was reading the - works of Caradoc Evans. - - St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just inside the - gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in front of it" This - St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the sizzling, browning - cheese was wafted over the walls and, with loud shouts, a great - concourse of the Welsh came sprinting in. When sufficient were - inside to make up a male voice choir of a hundred, St Peter - slammed the gates. However, it is said that these are the only - Welsh in Heaven. - -And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice grow and grow -to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but -toasted cheese. - -Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme: - - The Irishman loved usquebaugh, - The Scot loved ale called Bluecap. - The Welshman, he loved toasted cheese, - And made his mouth like a mousetrap. - - The Irishman was drowned in usquebaugh, - The Scot was drowned in ale, - The Welshman he near swallowed a mouse - But he pulled it out by the tail. - -And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, this tune in -_Merry Wives of Windsor_: - - 'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted cheese. - -An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English with Dr. -William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen enlivened the -_Blackwoods Magazine_ era with _Ten Tales_: - - [Illustration] Dr. Maginn's Rabbit - - Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for supper. It is - the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy eating. I like it best - in the genuine Welsh way, however--that is, the toasted bread - buttered on both sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef - with mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire _thoroughly_ saturated, while, in the - process of toasting, with genuine porter, black pepper, and - shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the assertion that this is - not a heavy supper for a man who has been busy all day till - dinner in reading, writing, walking or riding--who has occupied - himself between dinner and supper in the discussion of a bottle - or two of sound wine, or any equivalent--and who proposes to - swallow at least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper. - -The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct -summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master." - -The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper sandwich -was served, a century and a half ago; for it was served as a savory to -sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form: - - - After-Dinner Rabbit - - Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides and soak - to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of sharp old cheese - in butter in an iron skillet, with an added spot of beer and dry - English mustard. Stir steadily with a wooden spoon and, when - velvety, serve a-sizzle on piping hot beer-soaked toast. - -While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy dish of -Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in Elizabethan -London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also called a Buck Rabbit, -was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where Dr. -Johnson later presided. And it must have been the pick of the town -back in the days when barrooms still had sawdust on the floor, for the -learned Doctor endorsed old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: -"There is nothing which has been contrived by man by which so much -happiness is produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as -may be judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to -"a baby's ear dropped in sawdust." - -Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the world's first -Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't have to look far for -on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of letters at "The Cheese," as -it was affectionately called. To a man they sang praises for that -piping hot dish of preserved and beatified milk. - -Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester of -_Punch_, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to the memory of -Lovelace: - - Champagne will not a dinner make, - Nor caviar a meal - Men gluttonous and rich may take - Those till they make them ill - If I've potatoes to my chop, - And after chop have cheese, - Angels in Pond and Spiers's shop - Know no such luxuries. - -All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a reasonable -substitute. The base of this is what was once quaintly called a -"hot-water bath." This was a sort of miniature wash boiler just big -enough to fit in snugly half a dozen individual tins, made squarish -and standing high enough above the bath water to keep any of it from -getting into the stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since -such a tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of -fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or even -small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler or chafing -dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the "cheese stewer" in -stainless steel, silver or glass. - -In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, "bubbling -and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding that's still famous. -Although down the centuries the recipe has been kept secret, the -identifiable ingredients have been itemized as follows: "Tender steak, -savory oyster, seductive kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent -pepper and delicate paste"--not to mention mushrooms. And after the -second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, bitter, or -the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a dented pewter pot, -"the stewed Cheshire cheese." - -Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by tradition and -appetite from the time when Charles II aled and regaled Nell Gwyn at -"The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to have sampled this "kind of -a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served piping hot in the square shallow -tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately -colored toast." - -Among early records is this report of Addison's in _The Spectator_ of -September 25,1711: - - They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about midnight, when - the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. He that yawns widest, - and at the same time so naturally as to produce the most yawns - amongst his spectators, carries home the cheese. - -Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of Simpson's in the -Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest that drew crowds to his -fashionable eating and drinking place. He would set forth a huge -portion of cheese and wager champagne and cigars for the house that no -one present could correctly estimate the weight, height and girth of -it. - -As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson to "The -Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met there, showed -that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was tuppence, and that this -was also the amount of the usual tip. - - - Ye Original Recipe - -1-1/2 ounces butter -1 cup cream -1-1/2 cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, snappier, richer, -and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) - - Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese and let - it stew. - - You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual tin, or - pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top under a - blistering salamander. - - The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your - own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own - Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast - -It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not -lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in -tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf. - -This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of Johnson's -time supped while they smoked their church wardens, received its -highest praise from an American newspaper woman who rhapsodized in -1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin shaving of crisp, golden -toast in hot silver saucers--so hot that the cheese was the substance -of thick cream, the flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries -commingled." - -This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses hold a -trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched the milk. -Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyère, Parmesan wafts the scent of -Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of England is perfumed with the -petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine. - - - Oven Rabbit (FROM AN OLD RECIPE) - - Chop small 1/2 pound of cooking cheese. Put it, with a piece of - butter the size of a walnut, in a little saucepan, and as the - butter melts and the cheese gets warm, mash them together, - - When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, 1/2 teacupful of ale, a little - cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon one way only, - until it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil - it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the - Rarebit upon them, and set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before - serving. - - - Yorkshire Rabbit _(originally called Gherkin Buck, -from a pioneer recipe_) - - Put into a saucepan 1/2 pound of cheese, sprinkle with pepper - (black, of course) to taste, pour over 1/2 teacup of ale, and - convert the whole into a smooth, creamy mass, over the fire, - stirring continually, for about 10 minutes. - - In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes altogether is - the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot toast, place a piece of - broiled bacon on the top of each and serve as hot as possible. - - - Golden Buck - - A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer (No. 1) - plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, gave it its - shining name a couple of centuries ago. Nowadays some chafing - dish show-offs try to gild the Golden Buck with dashes of ginger - and spice. - - - Golden Buck II - - This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips. - - - The Venerable Yorkshire Buck - - Spread 1/2-inch slices of bread with mustard and brown in hot - oven. Then moisten each slice with 1/2 glass of ale, lay on top a - slice of cheese 1/4-inch thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of - that. Put back in oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon - crisp, and serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale. - -Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit. - - - Yale College Welsh Rabbit (MORIARTY'S) - -1 jigger of beer -1/4 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/4 teaspoon mustard -1-1/2 cups grated or shaved cheese -More beer - - Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on the - seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, moistening - from time to time with more beer, a pony or two at a time. - - When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this amount) - and serve with still more beer. - -There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, -with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in -the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but -taps a keg to drink with it. - -The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered by the use -of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is often used today -and is thought more sophisticated by some than the red cayenne of -Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish Rabbit, which is precisely the -same as our Basic Recipe No. 1. - - - Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit - -1-1/2 tablespoons butter -1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both -1-1/2 teaspoon chili powder -1 small can kidney beans, drained -1-1/2 tablespoons catsup -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire -Salt -2 cups grated cheese - - Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili powder; add - kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the cheese until melted. - - Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or crackers, - toasted and buttered. - -In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular modern ones -are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in from everywhere, -from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all kinds of quirks, down to -mixing in some dried beef, and there is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit -for reducers, made with farmer cheese and skimmed milk. - -Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the -great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and -more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following -is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, since it has had a -successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only -slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red. - - - Tomato Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -3/4 cup thin cream or evaporated milk -3/4 cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to remove seeds -A pinch of soda -3 cups grated cheese -Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne -2 eggs, lightly beaten - - Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when this - white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato sprinkled with - soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding cheese and seasonings, - and when cooked enough, stir in the eggs to make a creamy - texture, smooth as silk. Serve on buttered whole wheat or graham - bread for a change. - -Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of -bicarbonate of potash." - - - South African Tomato Rabbit - - This is the same as above, except that 1/2 teaspoon of sugar is - used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is poured over baked - pastry cut into squares and sprinkled with parsley, chopped fine, - put in the oven and served immediately. - - - Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc. (OLD BOSTON -STYLE) - -1 tablespoon butter -1 onion, minced -1 teaspoon salt -1 big pinch of pepper -2 cups cooked tomatoes -1 tablespoon sugar -3 cups grated store cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes - with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. Don't let it - boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the pan until it melts. - Then stir in egg gently and serve very hot - - - Tomato Soup Rabbit - -1 can condensed tomato soup -2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt and pepper - - Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and egg - slowly, season and serve hot. - -This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, -housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery Rabbit -if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato. - - - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1-1/2 cups cooked - tomatoes and add 1/2 cup of mashed boiled onions. - - - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy - -1 tablespoon butter -1 small onion, minced -1 small green pepper, minced -1 can tomato soup -3/4 cup milk -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten -1 jigger sherry -Crackers - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to retain its - flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until it's about 1/3 - full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over them. - - - Blushing Bunny - - This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum Tum - Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little rosier with a - lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and the paprika cooked - in from the start, of course. - -Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for dishes, like -Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak -_(Bubblum Squeakum_), and Toad in the Hole. - - - Scotch Woodcock - - Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum Tiddy, but - before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in 2 heaping - tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the buttered toast by - laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs. - - - American Woodchuck - -1-1/2 cups tomato purée -2 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -Cayenne -1 tablespoon brown sugar -Salt and pepper - - Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly melted stir - in the egg and, when almost cooked, add seasonings without ever - interrupting the stirring. Pour over hot toasted crackers or - bread. - -No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar was named -after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of the Scotch -Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with -brown sugar. - - - Running Rabbit (_as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, -First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937_) - - Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in - saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add Worcestershire - sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made toast. - -This running cony can be poured over toast like any other Rabbit, or -over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, or -served like Fondue, in the original cooking bowl or pan, with the -spoon kept moving in it in one direction only and the Rabbit following -the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog -races. - - - Mexican Chilaly - -1 tablespoon butter -3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without seeds -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -3/4 teaspoon salt -Dash of cayenne -1 egg, lightly beaten -2 tablespoons canned tomato juice -Water cress - - Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp and cook - 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and stirring steadily - as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten the egg with the tomato - juice and stir in until the Rabbit is thick and velvety. - - Serve on toast and dress with water cress. - -This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in -spite of the centuries' difference in age. - - - Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit - - Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs to make it - more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve it hot over cold - slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on hot buttered toast, to - make it extra eggy. - - - Grilled Tomato Rabbit - - Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes 1/2-inch thick, season with salt, - pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot both sides with all the - butter that won't slip off. - - Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove and broil - on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the usual toast and - pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is made according to - either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.) - - Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a touch of - horseradish help. - - - Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit - - Slice 1/4-inch thick an equal number of tomato and onion rings. - Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots of butter. Heat in - moderate oven, and when almost cooked remove and broil lightly. - - On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the tomato ones - and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain Grilled Tomato recipe - above. - -For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit. - - - The Devil's Own (_a fresh tomato variant_) - -2 tablespoons butter -1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -A pinch of cayenne -A dash of tabasco sauce -2 tablespoons chili sauce -1/2 cup ale or beer -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. - Keep warm on hot platter while you make the toast and a Basic - Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put - hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot - mixture over. - - - Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded -1/4 pound dried beef, shredded -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1/4 teaspoon pepper -2 cups grated cheese - - Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until mixed well, - then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated cheese until smooth - and creamy. Serve on toast. - -No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called both dried -beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, _tasajo_ on the -other side, and _xarque_ when you get all the way down to Brazil. - - - Kansas Jack Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup cream-style corn -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in cheese - steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and season to - taste. Serve on hot buttered toast. - -Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must have been -easier to make on Baron Münchhausen's "Island of Cheese," where the -cornstalks produced loaves of bread, ready-made, instead of ears, and -were no doubt crossed with long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits -quite as miraculous. - -After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or -canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized -Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which -appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has -everything. - - - Latin-American Corn Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -1 green pepper, chopped -1 large onion, chopped -1/2 cup condensed tomato soup -3 cups grated cheese -1 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1 cup canned corn -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, cover and - cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add cheese with - seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the corn, and when - thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the egg with a little of - the liquid, stir in until thickened and then pour over hot toast - or crackers. - - - Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit - - In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced fresh - mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting over boiling - water 2 cups of grated cheese with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 - teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily and, when partially melted, stir - in a can of condensed tomato soup, previously heated. Then add - the fried mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot - toast or crackers. - - - Celery and Onion Rabbit - -1/2 cup chopped hearts of celery -1 small onion, chopped -1 tablespoon butter -1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheese -Salt and pepper - - In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, - melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir steadily. When - nearly done stir the celery and onion in gradually, until smooth - and creamy. - - Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or under the - grill. - - - Asparagus Rabbit - - Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus - tops for the celery and onion. - - - Oyster Rabbit - -2 dozen oysters and their liquor -1 teaspoon butter -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1 large pinch of salt -1 small pinch of cayenne -3 cups grated cheese - - Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm while - you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is melted add the - eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep stirring. When the - Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, drop in the warm oysters - to heat a little more, and serve on hot buttered toast. - - - Sea-food Rabbits - - _(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, abalone, - squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or crawls on the - bottom of the ocean)_ - - Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or canned - sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make according to - Oyster Rabbit recipe above. - - Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, mixed - according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit with - horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change. - - - "Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit - - The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush bouquet of - as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, cod, salmon, etc.) - as can be sardined together in the whirlpool of melted cheese in - the chafing dish. They also accent it with tidbits of sea food as - above. - - - Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried - - Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the alewife to - the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan haddie, mackerel, cod, - and so on, can be stirred in to make a basic Rabbit more tasty. - Happy combinations are hit upon in mixing leftovers of several - kinds by the cupful. So the odd old cookbook direction, "Add a - cup of fish," takes on new meaning. - - - Grilled Sardine Rabbit - - Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, boned, - halved and grilled, on buttered toast. - - Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as succulent - a grilled Rabbit. - - - Roe Rabbits - - Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other fish, grill - on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit over. Although shad - roe is esteemed the finest, there are many other sapid ones of - salmon, herring, flounder, cod, etc. - - - Plain Sardine Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in place of the - egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of sardines, skinned, - boned and flaked. - - - Anchovy Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East Indian - chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, spread toast - thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and pour the Rabbit over. - - - Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like - - Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and all of - them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a Basic Rabbit over - the fish. - - The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a thin - slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked sturgeon. - - - Smoked Cheddar Rabbit - - With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose palates crave - the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic Rabbit made with - smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, but unsmoked, Cheddar. - We use a two-year-old that Phil Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, - brings down from Canada and has specially smoked in the same - savory room where sturgeon is getting the works. So his Cheddar - absorbs the de luxe flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and - is sold for a fraction of that. - - And just in case you are fishing around for something extra - special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned Bombay ducks, - those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian fish. - - Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky Lapsang - Soochong China tea. - - - Crumby Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup stale bread crumbs - soaked with -1 cup milk -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt -Cayenne -Toasted crackers - - Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. - When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg to thicken the - mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry or buttered, for - contrast with the bread. - - Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a cup of - catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what should be a - white monkey. - - There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which extend all - the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked Rabbit and - consisting of alternate layers of stale bread crumbs and - grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate three-layer Rabbit is - moistened with eggs beaten up with milk, and seasoned with salt - and paprika. - - - Crumby Tomato Rabbit - -2 teaspoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup soft bread crumbs -1 cup tomato soup -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the tomato soup - and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring until velvety. - Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to the bread crumbs. - - - Gherkin or Irish Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup milk (or beer) -A dash of vinegar -1/2 teaspoon mustard -Salt and pepper -1/2 cup chopped gherkin pickles - - Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and seasonings. - Keep stirring until smooth, then add the pickles and serve. - -This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle. - - - Dutch Rabbit - - Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy skillet - with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a splash of beer. - - Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or ale and - pour the Rabbit over them. - - The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer and - delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead. - -Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in the use of -prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of things the hard -way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with water before every meal, -while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do. - - - Pumpernickel Rabbit - - This German deviation is made exactly the same as the Dutch - Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in color. - Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in heated dark beer - (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese melted in the skillet is - also stirred up with brunette beer. - -Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the two to -commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or black -pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and the Cheddar is -noted for its beery smell, there is further affinity here. An old -English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread and cheese are the two -targets against death." - -By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been coined when -Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. Contemptuously he -spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "_Bon -pour Nicole_" in French. - - - Gruyère Welsh Rabbit _au gratin_ - - Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them lightly, - lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching slice of - imported Gruyère 3/8-inch thick. Pepper to taste and cover with - bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 minutes and rush to the ultimate - consumer. - -To our American ears anything _au gratin_ suggests "with cheese," so -this Rabbit _au gratin_ may sound redundant. To a Frenchman, however, -it means a dish covered with bread crumbs. - - - Swiss Cheese Rabbit - -1/2 cup white wine, preferably Neufchâtel -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1/2 saltspoon paprika -2 egg yolks - - Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until it melts, - then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at least 3 more minutes - until smooth. - - - Sherry Rabbit - -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk -1/2 cup sherry -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -A dash of paprika - - Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and - when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until - almost all of the cheese is melted, then add sherry. When smooth - and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and - after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color. - - - Spanish Sherry Rabbit - -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -1 bouillon cube, mashed -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 cups milk -1-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 jigger sherry - - Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in the - cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 minutes, and when - well-blended stir in the sherry and serve on hot, buttered toast. - - - Pink Poodle - -2 tablespoons butter -1 tablespoon chopped onion -1 tablespoon flour -1 jigger California claret -1 cup cream of tomato soup -A pinch of soda -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 teaspoon paprika -A dash of powdered cloves -3 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in flour, - wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir in cheese - slowly until melted and finish off by thickening with the egg and - stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve on crisp, buttered toast - with a dry red wine. - -Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss ones with -Gruyère in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly drunk with anything from -a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But for most of us, a deep draught -of beer or ale goes best with an even deeper draught of the mellow -scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow. - - - Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit - -1/8 pound butter -2 cups grated Gruyère -4 eggs, well-beaten -Salt -Pepper -Mustard - - Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, stirring - steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. Season and pour - over dry toast. - -This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up for any -lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the sweets to finish -a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries. - - - Cream Cheese Rabbit - - This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is more - scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply scramble a - half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, and - just before the finish work in the cheese until smooth and serve - on crackers--water crackers for a change. - - - Reducing Rarebit (Tomato Rarebit)[A] - -YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving. - -1/2 pound farmer cheese -2 eggs -1 level tablespoon powdered milk -1 level teaspoon baking powder -1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder -4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or -2 tomatoes, quartered -1 teaspoon caraway seeds -1/4 teaspoon garlic powder -1 teaspoon parsley flakes -1/2 head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber -1/4 cup wine vinegar -Salt and pepper to taste - -[Footnote A: (from _The Low-Calory Cookbook_ by Bernard Koten, -published by Random House)] - - Fill bottom of double boiler with water to 3/4 mark. Sprinkle - salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil over medium flame. When - upper part is hot, put in cheese, powdered milk, baking powder, - gelatin, caraway seeds and pepper and garlic powder to taste. - Mix. Break eggs into this mixture, cook over low flame, - continually stirring. Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and - continue cooking and stirring until tomatoes have been cooked - soft. Remove to lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has - been slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture. - - - Curry Rabbit - -1 tablespoon cornstarch -2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 tablespoon minced chives -2 green onions, minced -2 shallots, minced -1/4 teaspoon imported curry powder -1 tablespoon chutney sauce - - Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald the rest - over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture and stir in the - cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and chutney while - wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and sizzling enough to pour - over buttered toast. - -People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in Rabbits, just -as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables. - - - Ginger Ale Rabbit - - Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 - Rabbit of all time. - - - Buttermilk Rabbit - - Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 Rabbit. To be - consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk Cheese, instead of the - usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. This is milder. - - - Eggnog Rabbit - -2 tablespoons sweet butter -2 cups grated mellow Cheddar -1-1/3 cups eggnog -Dashes of spice to taste. - - After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog and keep - stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or not, depending on - taste and the quality of eggnog employed. - -Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the milkman in -holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been -multiplying as fast as guinea pigs. - - - All-American Succotash Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -3 cups grated cheese -1 cup creamed succotash, strained -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in the - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the creamed - succotash and season to taste. - - Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread. - - - Danish Rabbit - -1 quart warm milk -2 cups grated cheese - - Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot toast in - heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in north Denmark. - - As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to taste. - - Easy English Rabbit - - Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of cheese with - butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few spoonfuls of beer and a - bit of prepared mustard. When smoothly melted, pour over the - piping-hot, beer-soaked toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Six_ - -The Fondue - - -There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart -out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better than a collapsed -soufflé, with his definition: - - Fondue. Also, erroneously, _fondu_. A dish made of melted - cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and bread crumbs. - -Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for centuries has -been one of the world's greatest, to "a combination of melted cheese, -eggs and butter" and explains that the name comes from the French -_fondre_, meaning melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date -_Cook's Quiz_ compiled by TV culinary experts: - - A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread crumbs. - -A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety and -inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the -respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all -have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with its -creamy, nay velvety, smoothness. - -A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black pepper, -nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne pepper, the -luscious gravy of roast turkey--such little matters help to make an -authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme -Brillat-Savarin a century and a half ago brought the original -"receipt" with him and spread it around with characteristic generosity -during the two years of his exile in New York after the French -Revolution. In his monumental _Physiologie du Goût_ he records an -incident that occurred in 1795: - - Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper - Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish, - a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he - (Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to - New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are - brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite - by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion. - -As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at -Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later -had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyère three times a day, as is -the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe -just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur -Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne: - - Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of - your guests. Then take a lump of good Gruyère cheese, weighing - about a third of the eggs, and a nut of butter about half the - weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about - 1-1/2 ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. your lump - of good Gruyère would come to 1/4 pound and your butter to 1/8 - pound.) - - Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the butter - and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces. - - Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden spoon until - the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a little or no salt, - according to the age of the cheese, and a good deal of pepper, - for this is one of the special attributes of this ancient dish. - - Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some of the - best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite freely, a - marvelous effect will be beheld. - -This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the national dish -of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters in his district -laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his Fondue with a spoon instead -of the traditional fork, in the first decade of the 1700's. He tells, -too, of a Fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian -cousins in Paris "about the year 1801." - -The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the master: "By -Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long time about your -Fondues, you have continually made our mouths water. It is high time -to put a stop to all this. We will come and breakfast with you some -day and see what sort of thing this dish is." - -Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them off with -the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each one's place two -dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At each end of the table -stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully wiped, excepting the cork, which -showed distinctly that it had been in the cellar for a long while.... -After the oysters, which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, -a _terrine_ of _foie gras_, a pie with truffles, and finally the -Fondue. The different ingredients had all been assembled in a stewpan, -which was placed on the table over a chafing dish, heated with spirits -of wine. - -"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of -battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of my movements. -They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let -them have the receipt, which I promised them...." - -This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a -good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit -for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." - -This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in -what is called: - - - Neufchâtel Style - -2-1/2 cups grated imported Swiss -1-1/2 tablespoons flour -1 clove of garlic -1 cup dry white wine -Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big mouthfuls, handy - for dunking -1 jigger kirsch -Salt -Pepper -Nutmeg - - The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and mixed well - with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking and a small heated - casserole for serving. Hub the bottom and sides of the blazer - well with garlic, pour in the wine and heat to bubbling, just - under boiling. Add cheese slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir - steadily in one direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a - silver fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on - how salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, freshly - ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the kirsch, stir - steadily and invite guests to dunk their forked bread in the dish - or in a smaller preheated casserole over a low electric or - alcohol burner on the dining table. The trick is to keep the - bubbling melted cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up - and down and around and around. - -The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft -part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your bread comes off -in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine. - -The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests taking -regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese swirling. When -this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has been called in England, -is ready for eating, each in turn thrusts in his fork, sops up a -mouthful with the bread for a sponge and gives the Fondue a final -stir, to keep it always moving in the same direction. All the while -the heat beneath the dish keeps it gently bubbling. - -Such a Neufchâtel party was a favorite of King Edward VII, especially -when he was stepping out as the Prince of Wales. He was as fond of -Fondue as most of the great gourmets of his day and preferred it to -Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of the wine and kirsch that went into -it. - -At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue gets too -thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in the bottom of the -dish, this is forked out by the host and divided among the guests as a -very special dividend. - -Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the Switzerland Cheese -Association, in broadcasting this classical recipe, points out that -any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, including applejack, will be a -valid substitute for the kirsch. To us, applejack seems specially -suited, when we stop to consider our native taste that has married -apple pie to cheese since pioneer times. - -In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible consistency" and -this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese alone, although we use it -chiefly for that. - -In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish of eggs -scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very hot on toasted -bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and -served at once. The reason for this is that all baked Fondues fall as -easily and as far as Soufflés, although the latter are more noted for -this failing. There is a similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, -although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, -stuffed-shirt buildup around any Soufflé, suggesting a dressy dinner, -while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl. - -Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original French Fondue -on the Welsh Rabbit model--to turn it into a sort of French Rabbit. -Although we know that both Gruyère and Emmentaler are what we call -Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich -Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all -sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick -to Savarin's "lump of Gruyère" just as the neighboring French and -Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking -has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the -following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an -Englishman, Eric Weir: - - - Fondue à l'Italienne - - This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really - grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy, - but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but - only once in Italy. - - First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour - and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden - spoon to stand upright or almost. - - Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyère - cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with - salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add - the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding - basin. - - Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a - boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the - basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to - 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it - evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not - bubble over the mixture. - - Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When - the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and - turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep - the shape of the basin. - - Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot. - -The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then -marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being -melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted -here in: - - - All-American Fondue - -1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed -3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine -1-1/2 jiggers applejack - - After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt - together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the - applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus - of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String." - - Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and - poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the - thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to - stale ale or fresh beer. - -We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish -so eagerly, together with the great Gruyère that makes it distinctive. -They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse -and onion soup, that celestial _soupe à l'oignon_ on which snowy -showers of grated Gruyère descend. - -To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue à -l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the -world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and -show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage -Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière. - -Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, -rhapsodic writing about Gruyère and its offspring, the Fondue, -together with the puffed Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese -except Parmesan. - -Parmesan and Gruyère were praised as the two greatest culinary -cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese. - - - Parmesan Fondue - -3 tablespoons butter -1 cup grated Parmesan cheese -4 eggs, lightly beaten -Salt -Pepper - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the - eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only, - until smooth. - - Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the - ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a - fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough. - - - Sapsago Swiss Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -1/2 teaspoon salt -1-1/2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese -2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago -1/2 cup dry white wine -Pepper, black and red, freshly ground -Fingers of toast - - Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth, - fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well - melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in - small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until - velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve - over fingers of toast. - -This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated -pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the -fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, -cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added. - -At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion, -where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs -learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become -stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in -continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of -bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping -it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split -second. - -The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita -as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share -Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural -cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own, -such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a -luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk -cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and -Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants: - - 1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as - Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added - and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and - sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being - melted, though it's really recooked, - - 2. _Vacherin à la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses, - resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is - round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and - aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the - ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the - cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it - is _Tome de Montagne_. - -Here is a good assortment of Fondues: - - - Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -1 clove garlic, crushed -2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese -2 tablespoons hot water - - This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter - until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat. - Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and - velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in - one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a little water takes - the place of a lot of wine.) - - - La Fondue Comtois - - This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made with white wine. - Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish type will serve - splendidly. Also use butter, grated Gruyère, beaten eggs and that - touch of garlic. - - - Chives Fondue - -3 cups grated Swiss cheese -3 tablespoons flour -2 tablespoons butter -1 garlic clove, crushed -3 tablespoons finely chopped chives -1 cup dry white wine -Salt -Freshly ground pepper -A pinch of nutmeg -1/4 cup kirsch - - Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed - with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat - just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour - mix gradually, stirring always in one direction. Salt according - to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground - pepper and the pinch of nutmeg. - - When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in the - kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to dunking. - - Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change for dunking - purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating with the absorbent - bread, or hard rolls. - - - Tomato Fondue - -2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped -1/2 teaspoon dried sweet basil -1 clove garlic -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup dry white wine -2 cups grated Cheddar cheese -Paprika - - Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with garlic, - melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, - add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. Then add cheese, half a - cup at a time, and keep stirring until everything is smooth. - - Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit. - -Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but they're -held together with the common ingredient, tomato. - -Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale -bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make: - - Tomato Baked Fondue - -1 cup tomato juice -1 cup stale bread crumbs -1 cup grated sharp American cheese -1 tablespoon melted butter -Salt -4 eggs, separated and well beaten - - Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, - season with a little or no salt, depending on saltiness of the - cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake - about 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - -BAKED FONDUES - -Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a sensation on -these shores and is still in highest esteem among epicures, the Fondue -America took to its bosom was baked. The original recipe came from the -super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, _La Fondue -au Fromage_. - - - La Fondue au Fromage - - Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, yolks of - eggs and Gruyère, in thin slices for a change. Use red pepper - instead of black, splash in a jigger of kirsch but no white wine. - Finally fold in the egg whites and bake in a mold for 45 minutes. - -We adapted this to our national taste which had already based the -whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit with stale ale or -milk instead of white wine and Worcestershire, mustard and hot -peppers. Today we have come up with this: - - - 100% American Fondue - -2 cups scalded milk -2 cups stale bread crumbs -1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard -Salt -Dash of nutmeg -Dash of pepper -2 cups American cheese (Cheddar) -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. - Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth - mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites stiff, leaving - them slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix - and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a - moderate oven.) - -This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to our way of -thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take the place of the -wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our bland cookery. - - -OTHER FONDUES PLAIN AND FANCY, BAKED AND NOT - - - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy - -3/4 pound sharp cheese, diced -1 can condensed tomato soup -1/2 cup catsup -1/2 teaspoon mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten - - In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly by - constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or fold in the - catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on Melba toast or rusks. - -This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of -cocoa, for a change. - - - Cheese and Rice Fondue - -1 cup cooked rice -2 cups milk -4 eggs, separated and well beaten -1/2 cup grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three - - Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in cheese until - melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, season, fold in stiff - egg whites. Serve hot on toast. - - Corn and Cheese Fondue - -1 cup bread crumbs -1 large can creamed corn -1 small onion, chopped -1/2 green pepper, chopped -2 cups cottage cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 cup milk -2 eggs, well beaten - - Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered casserole set - in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in moderate oven, or until - set. - - - Cheese Fondue - -1 cup grated Cheddar -1/2 cup crumbled Roquefort -1 cup pimento cheese -3 tablespoons cream -3 tablespoons butter -1 teaspoon Worcestershire - - Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and creamy. - Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream or mayonnaise - if too stiff. - - Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted crackers. - - - Brick Fondue - -1/2 cup butter -2 cups grated Brick cheese -1/2 cup warm milk -1/2 teaspoon salt -2 eggs - - Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip in the - warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the eggs, one at a - time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls for each egg to be - beaten separately in cases like this. - - Serve over hot toast or crackers. - - Cheddar Dunk Bowl - -3/4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese -3 tablespoons cream -2/3 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire - - Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with the cream - until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful bowl for dunking in - the original style of Savarin, although this is a static - imitation of the real thing. - - All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, from celery - stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut from Bombay duck. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Seven_ - -Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - - -There isn't much difference between Cheese Soufflés, Puffs and -Ramekins. The _English Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_, the oldest, -biggest and best of such works in English, lumps Cheese Puffs and -Ramekins together, giving the same recipes for both, although it -treats each extensively under its own name when not made with cheese. - -Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese and bread -crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff again the principal -factor in Soufflé, from the French _souffler_, puff up). - - Basic Soufflé - -3 tablespoons butter or margarine -4 tablespoons flour -1-1/4 cups hot milk, scalded -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until thick and - smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the cooking and - slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat and let cool - somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a light hand and an - upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites and when evenly mixed - pour into a big, round baking dish. (Some butter it and some - don't.) To make sure the top will be even when baked, run a spoon - or knife around the surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the - dish, before baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high - and beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the Soufflé may - fall. The baking takes up to an hour and the egg whites shouldn't - be beaten so stiff they are hard to fold in and contain no air to - expand and puff up the dish. - -To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, -nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, especially in England. - -While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a close -second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all three of these -together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes -below. - - - Parmesan Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small modifications in - the ingredients: - -1 full cup of grated Parmesan -1 extra egg in place of the 1/2 cup of Cheddar cheese -A little more butter -Black pepper, not cayenne - - - Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight changes: - -1-1/4 cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the Cheddar cheese -Nutmeg in place of the cayenne - - - Parmesan-Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these little differences: - -1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan in place of -the Cheddar cheese -1/4 teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning. - -Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a -grand dinner. - - - Cheese-Corn Soufflé - - Make as Basic Soufflé, substituting for the scalded milk 1 cup of - sieved and strained juice from cream-style canned corn. - - - Cheese-Spinach Soufflé - - Sauté 1-1/2 cups of finely chopped, drained spinach in butter - with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and then whip it until light - and fluffy. Mix well into the white sauce of the Basic Soufflé - before adding the cheese and following the rest of the recipe. - - - Cheese-Tomato Soufflé - - Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk. - - - Cheese-Sea-food Soufflé - - Add 1-1/2 cups finely chopped or ground lobster, crab, shrimp, - other sea food or mixture thereof, with any preferred seasoning - added. - - - Cheese-Mushroom Soufflé - -1-1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar -1 cup cream of mushroom soup -Paprika, to taste -Salt -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon -2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds - - Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese gradually - and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken the sauce with - egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and finally fold in the - whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds and bake until golden - brown and puffed high (about 1 hour). - - - Cheese-Potato Soufflé (Potato Puff) - -6 potatoes -2 onions -1 tablespoon butter or margarine -1 cup hot milk -3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of pepper -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese - - Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put through a - ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except the egg whites - and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour - into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup of Cheddar on - top and bake in moderate oven about 1/2 hour, until golden-brown - and well puffed. Serve instantly. - - Variations of this popular Soufflé leave out the onion and - simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Sometimes 1 - tablespoon of catsup and another of minced parsley is added to - the mixture. Or onion juice alone, to take the place of the - cooked onions--about a tablespoon, full or scant. - -The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or Soufflé, are inclined -to make it extra peppery, as they do most of their Cheese Soufflés, -with not only "a dust of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be -stood on the face of a sixpence." - - - Cheese Fritter Soufflés - - These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crêpes suzette. - - -PUFFS - - - Three-in-One Puffs - -1 cup grated Swiss -1 cup grated Parmesan -1 cup cream cheese -5 eggs, lightly beaten -salt and pepper - - Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten eggs, - splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly incorporated, put in - ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort of little mold of any - shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 minutes, until richly browned. - -Such miniature Soufflés serve as liaison officers for this entire -section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the -French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. -These may be paper boxes, usually round, earthenware, china, Pyrex, -of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs. - -More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin -dishes, as follows: - - - Fried Puffs - -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/2 cup grated cheese -1 tablespoon flour -Salt -Paprika - - Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and seasonings. - When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, roll in crumbs and - fry. - - - Roquefort Puffs - -1/8 pound genuine French Roquefort -1 egg white, beaten stiff -8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds - - Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on crackers and - bake 15 minutes in slow oven. - -The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes may give -the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, but such is not -the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and left moist and -glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad droop to them that shows -there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in -cooking. - - - Parmesan Puffs - - Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal - parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a score or - more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes - till they puff up golden-brown. - - Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, second best, - from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and Italian settlers - get together on excellent Parmesan and Romano. Never buy Parmesan - already grated; it quickly loses its flavor. - - - Breakfast Puffs - -1 cup flour -1 cup milk -1/4 cup finely grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt - - Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill ramekins or - cups half full; then bake in quick oven until they are puffing - over the top and golden-brown. - - - Danish Fondue Puffs - -1 stale roll -1/2 cup boiling hot milk -Salt -Pepper -2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese -4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -4 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with cheese - and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the egg whites - and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and slowly bake - until puffed up and golden-brown. - - - New England Cheese Puffs - -1 cup sifted flour -1 teaspoon baking powder -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika -1/4 teaspoon dry mustard -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -1/2 cup milk -1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese -2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry - - Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. - Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold in the egg - whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big spoon into hot - deep fat and cook until well browned. - - Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also used, and - either of these makes a snappier puff, especially tasty when - served with soup. - - A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang. - - - Cream Cheese Puffs - -1/2 pound cream cheese -1 cup milk -4 eggs, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard - - Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from heat and add - milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well blended, then pour into - custard cups, ramekins or any other individual baking dishes that - are attractive enough to serve the puffs in. - - -RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - - -Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be collected -like snuff bottles. - -Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the individual -dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese Puff, this is -also _au gratin_ when topped with both cheese and browned bread -crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's license the name is also applied to -any kind of cake containing cheese and cooked in the identifying -one-portion ramekin. It is used chiefly in the plural, however, -together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken -Ramekins" and: - - - Cheese Ramekins I - -2 eggs -2 tablespoons flour -1/8 pound butter, melted -1/8 pound grated cheese - - Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes. - - - Cheese Ramekins II - -3 tablespoons melted butter -1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper -3/4 cup bread crumbs -1/2 cup grated cheese -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1-1/2 cups milk - - Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs into the - milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in buttered - ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. Serve piping hot, - for like Soufflés and all associated Puffs, the hot air will puff - out of them quickly; then they will sink and be inedible. - - -TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES, STILL GOING STRONG - - - Cheese Ramekins III - - Grate 1/2 pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a dozen small - paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing paper like Soufflé - cases. Put a saucepan containing 1/2 pint of water over the fire, - add 2 tablespoons of butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 - heaping tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the grated - cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, and let it - partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks from the whites - of three eggs, and beat them until the yolks foam and the whites - make a stiff froth. Put the mixture at once into the buttered - paper cases, only half-filling them (since they rise very high - while being baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a - moderate oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are - done, put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot. - -The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, -Gruyère. But because the early English also adopted Italian Parmesan, -that followed as a close second, and remains there today. - -Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this second -oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and Cheshire -"'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. Gloucester has been -called "a glorified Cheshire" and the latter has long been known as a -peculiarly rich and colorful elder brother of Cheddar, described in -Kenelme Digby's _Closet Open'd_ as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted -cheese." - - - Cheese Ramekins IV - - Scrape fine 1/4 pound of Gloucester cheese and 1/4 pound of - Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese in a mortar with the - yolks of 4 eggs, 1/4 pound of fresh butter, and the crumbs of a - French roll boiled in cream until soft. When all this is well - mixed and pounded to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. - Should the paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may - be added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served very hot. - -Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not easily come -by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the -States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of -our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or -half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about -it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three -different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect. - - - Ramequins à la Parisienne - -2 cups milk -1 cup cream -1 ounce salt butter -1 tablespoon flour -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -Coarsely ground pepper -An atom of nutmeg -A _soupçon_ of garlic -A light touch of powdered sugar -8 eggs, separated - - Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and - stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a - little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and - stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well - beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed, - fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have - a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of - paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to - allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until - golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes). - - - Le Ramequin Morézien - - This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comté is described as "a - porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast; - thickened with minced Gruyère and served very hot." - -Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs -usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In -Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les -Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyère and eggs. - - - Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins - -1/4 pound Swiss cheese -1/4 pound Roquefort cheese -1/2 pound butter -8 eggs, separated -4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed -1/2 cup cream - - The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the - rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are - folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part - full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served - instantaneously, lest they fall. - - Puff Paste Ramekins - - Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine - tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyère - and/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity - than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the - favorite for these. - - Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more - cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy - shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg - yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine. - - - Frying Pan Ramekins - - Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with - 1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff - but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of - bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 - minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander. - -There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds -that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other -that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special -cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their -creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or -Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay, -carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin. - - - Casserole Ramekin - - Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep - casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese, - with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with - 2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg! - Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eight_ - -Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc. - - -No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them -with pizza. - - - Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily - -DOUGH - -1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water -2 cups sifted flour -1 teaspoon salt -2 tablespoons olive oil - - Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, - cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice - the size. - -TOMATO PASTE - -3 tablespoons olive oil -2 large onions, sliced thin -1 can Italian tomato paste -8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small -1/2 teaspoon oregano -Salt -Crushed chili pepper -2-1/2 cups water - - In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato - paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over - and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is - done. - -CHEESE - -1/2 cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino, depending -on your pocketbook - - Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or reasonable - substitute, and grease well before spreading the well-raised - dough 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Poke your finger tips haphazardly - into the dough to make marks that will catch the sauce when you - pour it on generously. Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese - and bake in hot oven 1/2 hour, then 1/4 hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any other pie - and serve. - -The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to regular -apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular. - - - Miniature Pizzas - - Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with garlic or - onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with tomato sauce and a - slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, oregano and grated Parmesan, - and heat 8 minutes. - - - Italian-Swiss Scallopini - -1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets -1/2 cup flour -1/2 cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed -1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water -Butter -Salt -Paprika - - Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with cheese, - quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes till tender. - Dust with paprika and salt. - - - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles - -1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles -1-1/2 cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat -1/2 pound Ricotta or cottage cheese -1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar -1/4 pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino -Salt -Pepper, preferably crushed red pods -A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute - - Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly boiling - salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. Pour 1/2 cup - of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, cover with about 1/2 of - the noodles, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a - layer of Mozzarella and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this - fashion, alternating layers and seasoning each, ending with a - final spread of sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in - moderate oven, about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, - with canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste. - - - Little Hats, Cappelletti - - Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived - out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little Italy macaroni shop. - These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors - with only two cheeses. - - Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each - very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal - amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. - - With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored - fillings: - - Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and Ricotta Chicken - and Ricotta - - Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the same number - of each different kind. Pinch edges tight together to keep the - stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 minutes in chicken broth - (or salted water, if you must). - - Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and shape of - ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot plates, with - plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable substitute. If we - count this final seasoning as an ingredient, this makes three - cheeses, so that each of half a dozen taste buds can be getting - individual sensations without letting the others know what it's - doing. - - - Dauphiny Ravioli - - This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of pastry - follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat cheese and - Gruyère melted with butter and minced parsley and boiled in - chicken broth. - - - Italian Fritters - -1/4 cup flour -2 tablespoons sugar -1/4 pound fresh Ricotta -2 eggs, beaten -1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella -Rind of 1/2 lemon, grated -3 tablespoons brandy -Salt - - Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 - hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold its shape - while cooking. - - Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the bowl of a - long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in boiling hot oil. - Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at once with powdered sugar. - - To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several contrasting - cheeses in this batter. - - - Italian Asparagus and Cheese - - This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one and the - same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation layer of - grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a layer of tender - parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a layer of grated - Gruyère with a bit of butter, and another of asparagus. From here - you can go as far as you like with varied layers of melting - cheeses alternating with asparagus, until you come to the top, - where you add two more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered - Parmesan with Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent. - - - Garlic on Cheese - - For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by removing skins - and frying out the fierce pungence in smoking olive oil. They - skip in the hot pan like Mexican jumping beans. Toast one side of - a thickish slice of bread, put this side down on a grilling pan, - cover it with a slice of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyère, of - about the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into the - cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt lightly and - dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob Brown in Merle - Armitage's collection _Fit for a King_.) - -Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them toes. It was -cheese and garlic together that inspired Shakespeare to Hotspur's -declaration in _King Henry IV_: - - I had rather live - With cheese and garlic in a windmill, far, - Than feed on cates and have him talk to me - In any summer-house in Christendom. - -Some people can take a mere _soupçon_ of the stuff, while others can -down it by the soup spoon, so we feel it necessary in reprinting our -recipe to point to the warning of another early English writer: -"Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young -men." - - - Blintzes - - This snow white member of the crêpes suzette sorority is the most - popular deb in New York's fancy cheese dishes set. Almost unknown - here a decade or two ago, it has joined blinis, kreplach and - cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers. - -2 eggs -1 cup water -1 cup sifted flour -Salt -Cooking oil -1/2 pound cottage cheese -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups sour cream - - Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour and salt - to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and make little - pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. Cook the cakes over - low heat and on one side only. Slide each cake off on a white - cloth, with the cooked side down. While these are cooling make - the blintz-filling by beating together the second egg, cottage - cheese and butter. Spread each pancake thickly with the mixture - and roll or make into little pockets or envelopes with the end - tucked in to hold the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and - serve at once with sufficient sour cream to smother them. - - - Vatroushki - - Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and - blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be made was - vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief - difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of - the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese - filling, and the sour cream, 1/2 cup, is mixed into this instead - of being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix are - made by pinching the edges of the dough together. The tops are - brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk oven. - - - Cottage Cheese Pancakes - -1 cup prepared pancake -4 tablespoons top milk or light cream -1 teaspoon salt -4 eggs, well beaten -1 tablespoon sugar -2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer - - Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth. - - - Cheese Waffles - -2 cups prepared waffle flour -3 egg yolks, lightly beaten -1/4 cup melted butter -3/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar -3 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 ingredients and - fold in egg whites last. - -Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat -quickly and serve. - - - Napkin Dumpling - -1 pound cottage cheese -1/8 pound butter, softened -3 eggs, beaten -3/4 cup Farina -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cinnamon and brown sugar - - Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to - form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold water and tie the - ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling - water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown - sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and - other succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as a - meal in itself. - - -BUTTER AND CHEESE - - - Where fish is scant - And fruit of trees, - Supply that want - With butter and cheese. - - Thomas Tusser in - _The Last Remedy_ - -Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for cheese butter. -Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or less matches Turkey's -Durak, of which butter is an indispensable ingredient, and French -Cancoillote is based on sour milk simmered with butter. - -The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter -substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about -whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in -Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process -of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats, -and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter. - - -BUTTERMILK CHEESE - - -The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu -proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he -dies." - -Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy -manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, -even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato -salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment -packages. - -German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes -make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a -novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE - - -In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It -is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting -milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on -the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is -drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually -salted. - -The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes -from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute: - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 1_ - -Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will -immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little -cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for -serving. - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 2_ - -A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and -buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into -a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste -and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency, -and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange. - - -CREAM CHEESE - - -In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese: - -1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained. -2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire. -3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged -in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, as -in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese. - -American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being named from -then: region or established brands owned by Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, -Shefford, etc. - -Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to make than -cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it is not a cheese -but the dried curd of milk and is often called virginal. Fresh milk is -simply strained through muslin in a perforated box through which the -whey and extra moisture drains away for three or four days, leaving a -residue as firm as fresh butter. - -In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a popular -assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these ingredients and -names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, Pimiento, Olive and -Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, Strawberry, and Triple Decker -of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in layers. - -In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. Finally, to -come to France, la Foncée or Fromage de Pau, a cream also known around -the world as Crême d'Isigny, Double Crême, Fromage à la Crême de Gien, -Pots de Crême St. Gervais, etc. etc. - -The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with Chevretons -du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that adds _à la crême_ to -their already glorified names. - -The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more of a -dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese. - -We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. -Attempts at this have been made, both here and in England; Scottish -Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be -sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses -seem especially suitable. - - The farmer's daughter hath soft brown hair - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese) - And I met with a ballad I can't say where, - That wholly consisted of lines like these, - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese.) - -In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the ingredients -suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In England. From that year -Kettner in his _Book of the Table_ quotes this recipe: - - Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well together; - and make small coffins (that is, cases of pastry), and do it (put - it) therein; and do (put) thereto sugar and good powders. Or take - good fat cheese and eggs and make them of divers colours, green, - red or yellow, and bake them or serve them forth. - -This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of honor that -caused Kettner to wax poetic with: - - At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a countless - number of these maids--light and airy as the "airy, fairy - Lilian." What more can the finest poetry achieve in quickening - the things of earth into tokens and foretastes of heaven, with - glimpses of higher life and ethereal worlds. - - -CHEESECAKES - - -_Coronation Cheese Cake_ - - -The _Oxford Dictionary_ defines cheese cake as a "tartlet filled with -sweet curds, etc." This shows that the cheese is the main thing, and -the and-so-forth just a matter of taste. We are delighted to record -that the Lord Mayor of London picked traditional cheese tarts, the -maids of honor mentioned earlier in this section, as the Coronation -dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city -luncheon in Guildhall This is most fitting, since these tarts were -named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen -Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand -pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual cheese cake -ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of cheese, but what made the -subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, lemon, orange-flower water, or all -four? - -More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese cake, the -Greeks had a word for it--several in fact: Apician Cheese Cake, -Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. Then the Romans took it over -and we read from an epistle of the period: - - Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have been - arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese cakes - dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such as that of - Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.) - -Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was named for it -before Christ was born, at a time when cheese cakes were widely known -as "dainty food for mortal man." - -Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of which the -ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most popular in New York. -But buyers delight in every sort, including the one hundred percent -American type called cheese pies. - -Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese cakes and -cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are made piquant with -pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of ours made from -popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve: - - - Pineapple Cheese Cake - -2-1/2 pounds sieved pot cheese -1-inch piece vanilla bean -1/4 pound sweet butter, melted -1/2 small box graham crackers, crushed fine -4 eggs -2 cups sugar -1 small can crushed pineapple, drained -2 cups milk -1/3 cup flour - - In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and - pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square Pyrex pan and - put in the graham-cracker dust to make a crust. Cover this evenly - with the pineapple and pour in the cheese-custard mixture. Bake I - hour in a "quiet" oven, as the English used to say for a moderate - one, and when done set aside for 12 hours before eating. - -Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better buy your -cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones cost a dime a -bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American ones in Manhattan. -Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at about five dollars a cake. -Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries. - - - Cheese Custard - -4 eggs, slightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 cup milk -A dash of pepper or paprika -3 tablespoons melted butter -A few drops of onion juice, if desired -4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported) - - Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake - until brown. - - - Open-faced Cheese Pie - -3 eggs -1 cup sugar -2 pounds soft smearcase - - Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake without - any upper crust. - - -The Apple-pie Affinity - -Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even -as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has cheese for a sidekick, -according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and -flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was -Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are -common, such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, -pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hablé, and even a green -dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie. - -Apple pie _au gratin_, thickly grated over with Parmesan, Caciocavallo -or Sapsago, is something special when served with black coffee. Cider, -too, or applejack, is a natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple -with its cheese. - - - Apple Pie Adorned - - Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing cream - cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of double cream - beaten thick and salted a little. Put the mixture in a pastry - tube and decorate top of pie in fanciful fashion. - - - Apple Pie á la Cheese - - Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any fruit or - berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 minutes. - - - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie - - In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and sprinkle with - sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and bake golden-brown. - - - Flan au Fromage - - To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, simply mix - coarsely grated Gruyère with beaten egg, fill the tart cases and - bake. - - For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, work in - tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 parts of - flour. - - - Christmas Cake Sandwiches - - A traditional Christmas carol begs for: - - A little bit of spice cake - A little bit of cheese, - A glass of cold water, - A penny, if you please. - - For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake in slices - and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese between. - - To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, serve - apple pie with cheese and applejack. - - - Angelic Camembert - -1 ripe Camembert, imported -1 cup Anjou dry white wine -1/2 pound sweet butter, softened -2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs - - Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and when its - creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, round covered - dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no bouquet or aroma can - possibly escape, and let stand overnight. - - When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, dry the - cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an angelic paste. - Reshape in original Camembert form, dust thickly with the crumbs - and there you are. - -Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since some of -them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken straight. - -Although A. W. Fulton's observation in _For Men Only_ is going out of -date, it is none the less amusing: - - In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only met one - woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her seemed to me so - deserving of reward that I did not hesitate to acquire her hand - in marriage. - -Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like -cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between -gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from -early Italian landowners: - - _Ai contadini non far sapere - Quanta è buono it cacio con le pere_. - Don't let the peasants know - How good are cheese and pears. - -Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of Taleggio, -Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a good dinner, with a -juicy Lombardy pear or its American equivalent, a Bartlett, let us -say. - -This celestial association of cheese and pears is further accented by -the French: - - _Entre la poire et le fromage_ - Between the pear and the cheese. - -This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, in -accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke in his -_Paroemiologia_: - - After cheese comes nothing. - -But in his _Epigrams_ Ben Jonson serves them together. - - Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will be. - -That brings us back to cheese and pippins: - - I will make an end of my dinner; there's - pippins and cheese to come. - - Shakespeare's _Merry Wives of Windsor_ - -When should the cheese be served? In England it is served before or -after the fruit, with or without the port. - -Following _The Book of Keruynge_ in modern spelling we note when it -was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, -strawberries, whortleberries (American huckleberries) and hard -cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like -Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced -banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese dessert tray to match -the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, -are figs, both fresh and preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, -kumquats, avocados, fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, -served in the scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or -pear and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. Pots -of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being -the best. - - - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola - -1/2 pound mellow Roquefort -1/4 pound sweet butter, softened -A dash cayenne -3/4 cup champagne - - With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, - moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or - less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the - demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt - gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just - plain bread. - -After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are: - -FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, -Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy) - -FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar - -FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly - -FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese - -FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval - -FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyère - -FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse - -FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost - -FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda - -FROM ENGLAND: Stilton - -FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Nine_ - -Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - - -He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet, -saluted it two centuries ago with: - - Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow. - -On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan, -"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W. -Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a -century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_ -wrote: - - I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me - back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very - kind of him. - -The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and, -for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave -us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with -a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In -America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although -Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or -cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that. - - - Potatoes au Gratin - -2 cups diced cooked potatoes -2 tablespoons grated onion -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup milk -1 egg -Salt -Pepper -More grated cheese for covering - - In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle - with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of - cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk, - egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top - everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically - American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2 - hour. - - - Eggs au Gratin - - Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any - desired number of eggs broken into a buttered baking dish. Begin - by using half of the sauce and sprinkling on a lot of grated - cheese. After the eggs are in, pour on the rest of the sauce, - cover it with grated cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of - butter, and cook until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes). - - - Tomatoes au Gratin - - Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and - sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, season - with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of - tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating - with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, - cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - - Onion Soup au Gratin - -4 or 5 onions, sliced -4 or 5 tablespoons butter -1 quart stock or canned consommé -1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes -Rounds of toasted French bread -1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese - - Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until light golden, - and pour the stock over. When heated put in a larger casserole, - add the bouillon, season to taste and heat to boiling point. Let - simmer 15 minutes and serve in deep well-heated soup plates, the - bottoms covered with rounds of toasted French bread which have - been heaped with freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the - broiler. More cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as - desired. - -At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of champagne -are often added to the bouillon. - -In the famed onion soup _au gratin_ at Les Halles in Paris, grated -Gruyère is used in place of Parmesan. They are interchangeable in this -recipe. - - -AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - - In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is made by - heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and adding finely - grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French bread toasted and - topped with more cheese and broiled golden makes the best base to - pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above. - - The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese - soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, - pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg. - - - Chicken Cheese Soup - - Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken bouillon - cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed cream of - chicken soup. Stir in 1/4 cup grated American Cheddar cheese and - season with salt, pepper, and plenty of paprika until cheese - melts. - - Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese to lima - bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or plain cheese soup - with rice. - -Imported French _marmites_ are _de rigueur_ for a real onion soup _au -gratin_, and an imported Parmesan grinder might be used for freshly -ground cheese. In preparing, it is well to remember that they are -basically only melted cheese, melted from the top down. - - -CHEESE SALADS - - When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is resting and in no hurry. - He eats the salad to prepare himself for the cheese. - - Henri Charpentier, _Life & la Henri_, - - - Green Cheese Salad Julienne - - Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of crisp - lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone cheese cut in - thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 hours in French - dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue cheese and toss - everything thoroughly, with plenty of French dressing. - - - American Cheese Salad - - Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with shredded - American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in French dressing. - - - Cheese and Nut Salad - - Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats and enough - mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little balls and serve - with fruit salads, dusting lightly with finely grated Sapsago. - - - Brie or Camembert Salad - - Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie or - Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce drenched with - French dressing and scatter shredded almonds over. (Cream cheese - will do in a pinch. If the Camembert isn't creamy enough, mash it - with some sweet cream.) - - - Three-in-One Mold - -3/4 cup cream cheese -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -1/2 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled -2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into -1/2 cup boiling water -Juice of 1 lemon -Salt -Pepper -2 cups cream, beaten stiff -1/2 cup minced chives - - Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with lemon, salt - and pepper and stir into cheese with the whipped cream. Add - chives last Put in ring mold or any mold you fancy, chill well - and slice at table to serve on lettuce with a little mayonnaise, - or plain. - - - Swiss Cheese Salad - - Dice 1/2 pound of cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Slice one onion - very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash with German mustard, - olive oil, wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and - grind in plenty of black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a - wooden spoon so you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is - drenched with the dressing. - - - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad - -Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished specially -by males on the morning after. We quote the original recipe brought -over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the writers' and artists' -colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her brother Emil's White House -Inn: - - First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported Emmentaler into - half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported French olive oil, German - mustard and Swiss white wine vinegar with salt and freshly ground - pepper in a deep soup plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper - sauce scattered in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes - with a light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising. - - The salad was ready to eat only when each and every tiny, shiny - cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been washed, oiled and - polished with the soothing mixture. - - "Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine Breakfast - Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It is the best cure - in the world for the worst hangover." - - - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad - - Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. Sprinkle with - lemon juice and spread with creamy Gorgonzola. Sluice with French - dressing made with lemon juice in place of vinegar, to help bring - out the natural banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola. - - - Cheese and Pea Salad - - Cube 1/2 pound of American Cheddar and mix with a can of peas, 1 - cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/2 cup of sour cream, - and 2 tablespoons each of minced pimientos and sweet pickles. - Serve in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped - radishes. - - - Apple and Cheese Salad - -1/2 cup cream cheese -1 cup chopped pecans -Salt and pepper -Apples, sliced 1/2-inch thick -Lettuce leaves -Creamy salad dressing - - Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple slices - standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy salad - dressing. - - - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing - - No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American favorite of - Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with French - dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar and kept in the - refrigerator to shake up on occasion and toss over lettuce or - other salads. - -Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, complete -with the picture of the sheep in red, and _garanti véritable_, the -dressing is often ruined by bad vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all -things). When bottled to sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous -spice, oils and mustard flour are used where nothing more is necessary -than the manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good -vinegar--white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent amateurs must have -their splash of Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice with salt and -pepper. This Roquefort dressing is good on all green salads, but on -endive it's something special. - - - SAUCE MORNAY - -Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary -achievement in cheese." - - Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a white sauce - (the French Sauce Béchamel) and add grated Parmesan to your - liking, stirring it in until melted and the sauce is creamy. This - can be snapped up with cayenne or minced parsley, and when used - with fish a little of the cooking broth is added. - - - PLAIN CHEESE SAUCE - -1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white sauce - - This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or hard-cooked - eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 parts of cheese to 4 - of white sauce, it is delicious on boiled cauliflower, baked - potatoes, macaroni and crackers soaked in milk. - - The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter with the - flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg yolk in with - the cheese. - -From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes: - -_Thin_: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty milk toast, -sometimes spiced with curry. - -_Medium_: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in milk. - -_Thick_: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured generously over -bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the -sauce sink in. - - - PARSLEYED CHEESE SAUCE - - This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven the - cabbage family--hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels - sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled over. - - -CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - - -Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a bounteous -cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not indispensable, -recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or overlooked or crowded -out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, -Soufflés, etc. - - -_Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks_ - -Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by pressing -through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with any seasoning or -relish. - - SUGGESTIONS: - - Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or all three, - with or without a touch of Worcestershire. - - Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce. - - Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, minced - capers, pickles, or minced ham. - - Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for your - favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. This last - is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese creamed with - sweet butter. - - All canapé butters are ideally suited to stuffing stalks. - Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed. - - A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the leafy tops - off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or anything similarly - suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but keep them in order, to - reassemble in the head after each is stuffed with a different - mixture, using any of the above, or a tangy mix of your own - concoction. - - After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, - press them together in the form of the original head, tie tight, - and chill. When ready, slice in rolls about 8-inch thick and - arrange as a salad on a bed of water cress or lettuce, moistened - with French dressing. - - - Cold Dunking - - Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be had by - moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or lemon in a - dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently liquefied, it is - liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, onions, pimiento - and/or other relish. Then a couple of tins of anchovies are - macerated and stirred in, oil and all. - - - Cheese Charlotte - - Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted slices of - bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet butter with 2 - eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of grated cheese. Bake - until golden brown in slow oven. - - - Straws - - Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, fold and - roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese each time. Chill - dough in refrigerator and cut in straw-size strips. Stiffly salt - a beaten egg yolk and glaze with that to give a salty taste. Bake - for several minutes until crisp. - - - Supa Shetgia[B] - -[Footnote B: (from _Cheese Cookery_, by Helmut Ripperger)] - - _This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known - in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one - has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how - perfectly it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, - is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned - tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased_. - - Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup - plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss - cheese. Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over - it some boiling milk. Cover the plate and let it stand for - several minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Serve - topped with browned, hot butter. Use whole nutmeg and grate it - freshly. - - -WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - - -Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from -soups to spaghetti--and indeed any vegetable--that a shaker of grated -Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, -or is served freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup -might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great -minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient -along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, -olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth. - -Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the -Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's served up as a -separate tidbit with the meats. - -Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as -the French are wont to use more wine in cooking. - - - Pfeffernüsse and Caraway - -The gingery little "pepper nuts," _pfeffernüsse_, imported from -Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best -accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish -of caraway. - - - Diablotins - -Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated -cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution. - - -CHEESE OMELETS - - - Cheddar Omelet - - Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun - to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be - called a Wild Omelet. - Cook as usual. Fold and serve. - - - Parmesan Omelet (mild) - - Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in - place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar. - - - Parmesan Omelet (full flavored) - - As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows: - Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the - beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the - omelet begins to set. - - - A Meal-in-One Omelet - - Fry 1/2 dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup - of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to equal crispness. - Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1-1/2 - tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 - tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste. - - - Tomato and - - Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh tomato and - dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put under broiler - until cheese melts to a golden brown. - - - Omelet with Cheese Sauce - - Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when finished, - cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white sauce in which 1/4 - pound of shredded cheese has been melted, and mixed well with 1/2 - cup cooked, diced celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced. - -The French use grated Gruyère for this with all sorts of sauces, such -as the _Savoyar de Savoie_, with potatoes, chervil, tarragon and -cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning -with a salamander. - - - Spanish Flan--Quesillo - -FOR THE CARAMEL: -1/2 cup sugar -4 tablespoons water - -FOR THE FLAN: -4 eggs, beaten separately -2 cups hot milk -1/2 cup sugar -Salt - - Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour it into - a baking mold. - - Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven about - 3/4 hour. - - - Italian Fritto Misto - - The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with - whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat - are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and - giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato, - and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk - of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture. - - - Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese) - - Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very - thin and cut in 2-inch squares. - - Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted - butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless - currents. - - Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to - make little pockets. - - Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil - steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst - open. - - Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a - sprinkling of bread crumbs. - - This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes. - - - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes - - Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some - old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked - bacon. - - -If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a - - Sautéed Swiss Sandwich - - Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly - buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it - with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry - on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved - on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and - a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this - until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter - made strong men cry for it. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Ten_ - -Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - - -In America cheese got its start in country stores in our -cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up -the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap -cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the -flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too -palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo -the cat off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be -beat today. - -At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was -our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont -Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. -When Orton heard we were writing this book, he sent samples from the -store his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. Together -with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese and the Sage came a -handy handmade Cracker Basket, all wicker, ten crackers long and just -one double cracker wide. A snug little casket for those puffy, -old-time, two-in-one soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the -taste of the accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's -made to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on one -half and another on t'other, or sandwich them between. - -Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the corner -saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never faltered till -Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was soon pepped up as -saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, bowls of pickles, -peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with plenty of mustard, -pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese -forever together, as in the free-lunch ditty of that great day: - - I am an Irish hunter; - I am, I ain't. - I do not hunt for deer - But beer. - Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag. - - I do not hunt for fleas - But cheese. - Oh, Adolph, bring the free lunch. - -It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to coast. In -every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger--manly -cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden -yellow, tangy mellow, always cut in cubes. Cheese takes the cube form -as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon. - -On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely cubes, free -Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to lead the tired -businessman in by the nose; or a smear of Canadian Snappy out of a -pure white porcelain pot in the classy places, on a Bent's water -biscuit. - - -SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - -Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of which there -is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us consume most of our -country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar and Swiss. To attempt to -classify and describe all of these would be impossible, so we will -content ourselves by picking a few of the cold and hot, the plain and -the fancy, the familiar and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum -up the situation. - - -A Alpine Club Sandwich - - Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick slice of - imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, and the usual - club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of chicken or turkey, - tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf. - - -B Boston Beany, Open-face - - Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it generously - with hot baked beans and a thick layer of shredded Cheddar. Top - with bacon and put under a slow broiler until cheese melts and - the bacon crisps. - - -C Cheeseburgers - - Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, - using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a nice slice - of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the - hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and - begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, - toasted sandwich buns. - - -D Deviled Rye - - Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot oven. Cool - until crisp again. Then spread thickly with cream cheese, - bedeviled with catsup, paprika or pimiento. - - -E Egg, Open-faced - - Sauté minced small onion and small green pepper in 2 tablespoons - of butter and make a sauce by cooking with a cup of canned - tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. Fry 4 eggs and put one - in the center of each of 4 pieces of hot toast spread with the - red sauce. Sprinkle each generously with grated Cheddar, broil - until melted and serve with crisp bacon. - - -F French-fried Swiss - - Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported Gruyère, - soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry slowly till cheese melts - and the sandwich is nicely browned. This is a specialty of - Franche-Comté. - - -G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar - - Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them on both - sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked chicken, 1/2 - slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a sprinkling of minced ham. - Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut in half and dip thoroughly in a - mixture of egg and milk. Grill golden on both sides and serve - with lengthwise slices of dill pickle. - - -H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced - - Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a layer of - mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then one of Swiss - cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped with mustard and a - sowing of capers. - - -I International Sandwich - - Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, cover soft, - untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread lightly with mustard, - top that with a wheel of Bermuda onion and 1 or 2 slices of - Italian-type tomato. Season with cayenne and salt, dot with - butter, cover with Brazil nuts and brown under the broiler. - - -J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises - - Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture of onion - browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with grated Gruyère. - Simmer until cheese melts, and serve. - - -K Kümmelkäse - - If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish slab of - Milwaukee Kümmelkäse, which translates caraway cheese. For good - measure sprinkle caraway seeds on top, or serve them in a saucer - on the side. Then dash on a splash of kümmel, the caraway liqueur - that's best when imported. - - -L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup - - Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French dressing for - 1/2 hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft - Limburger, top with onion and you will have something - super-duper--if you like Limburger. - - When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has - quite another character and flavor, so true Limburger addicts - make one of each and take alternate bites for the thrill of - contrast. - - -M Meringue, Open-faced (from the Browns' _10,000 Snacks_) - - Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 slice of - bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter on untoasted - side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over butter, and the yolk - of an egg in the center. Beat egg white stiff with a few grains - of salt and pile lightly on top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons - of grated cheese over that and bake in moderate oven until the - egg white is firm and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown. - - -N Neufchâtel and Honey - - We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with thin, - decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, then with - Neufchâtel topped with some fine honey--Mount Hymettus, if - possible. - - Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the Neufchâtel, but - nothing will take the place of the honey to make this heavenly - sandwich that must have been the original ambrosia. - - -O Oskar's Ham-Cam - - Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 - superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, - perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, - open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost - any one-way slice you desire. He uses as many contrasting kinds - of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh - and whipped. The Ham-Cam base involves "a juicy, tender slice of - freshly boiled, mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on - the ham as thick as velvet. - - The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver - paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and - _rémoulade_," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," - "a slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira jelly, - with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to - Camembert on ham. - - -P Pickled Camembert - - Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe - imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't summer). Make a - mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and - spread it on. Top this with a thin slice of white bread for - pleasing contrast with the black. - - -Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich - - On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, crusty - white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese - made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." This last translates - back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the - world--on a par with fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy - cheese lightly with imported capers, and you'll say it's - scrumptious. - - -R Roquefort Nut - - Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine - Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian - paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes. Finish it off - with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof. - - -S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich - - Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or - a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with - sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese. - - Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New - York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, - is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king - of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as - above. - - Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with - cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, - while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of - this world. We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong - China tea. - - -T Tangy Sandwich - - On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay thinly - sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef with - horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old chopped - chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on every cheese - sandwich, try different kinds for a change: sharp English freshly - mixed by your own hand out of the tin of powder, or Dijon for a - French touch. - - -U Unusual Sandwich--of Flowers, Hay and Clover - - On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a layer of - equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with petals of rose, - marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with French Fromage de foin. - This French hay cheese gets its name from being ripened on hay - and holds its new-mown scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers - (the smaller they are, the better), with a little of the luscious - juice, and dust lightly with Sapsago. - - -V Vegetarian Sandwich - - Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store - cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with chopped - chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms - that suits your fancy. - - -W Witch's Sandwich - - Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin slice of - imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop or two of - tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled ham and press it - together with the cheese between the two bread slices, put in a - hot oven and serve piping hot with a handful of - "moonstones"--those outsize pearl onions. - - -X Xochomilco Sandwich - - In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a drop to be - had that's native to the festive, floating gardens near Mexico - City. For there, instead of the cow, a sort of century plant - gives milky white _pulque_, the fermented juice of this - cactuslike desert plant. With this goes a vegetable cheese curded - by its own vegetable rennet. It's called tuna cheese, made from - the milky juice of the prickly pear that grows on yet another - cactuslike plant of the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes - teams up in arid lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced - into a tortilla sandwich. The milky _pulque_ of Xochomilco goes - as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese sandwich. - - - Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich - - Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with cream - cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt and a touch - of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole wheat bread. - - -Z Zebra - - Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own - Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those oft-photoed skins - in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various - white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern. - -For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese -sandwiches. - - - Toasted Cheese Sandwich - - Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and sandwich - between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp cheese, egg - yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with stiffly beaten - egg white folded in last to make a light filling. Fry the - buttered sandwich in more butter until well melted and nicely - gilded. - -This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, -who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the -form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh -Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to -further sandwich the two. - -Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to -this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the -equally Dutch Pennsylvanians. - -England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with -such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. -Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's -quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew. - - - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich - -1 pound grated Cheddar -1 egg, well beaten -1/2 cup milk -1 tablespoon butter - - Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eleven_ - -"Fit for Drink" - - - A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for - drink. - - -Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according -to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk -cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and -no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine -to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and -body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. -Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory. - -While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, -Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of -gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on -the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon -and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But -professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They -may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of -Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest it give the wine a -spurious nobility. - -And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest affinity for it. -Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie -and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rosé_. Heavenly -marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both -Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, -Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be -made for each other, as do Château Margaux and Camembert. - -A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in -the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valençay, -Vendôme and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates -with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most -commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French -cheeses. - -Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being -Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French -Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine from just across the -border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben -(grape cheese), named from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged. - -One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited -to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape -and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas -(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly -suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian -Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The -affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven. - -Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with -wines, according to these matches registered by André Simon in _The -Art of Good Living:_ - -Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port -White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry -Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port -Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - -To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of -Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer. - -The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and -liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent -imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit -Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks. - -While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, -we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we -can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig -and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or -Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin -Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately. - -Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kümmel -with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of -caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper -berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage -Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. -One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee -laced with gin. - -French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not only coffee and -rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then -there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with -brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy. - -In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In -Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and -the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional -Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and -hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge -Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own -Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque. - -The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. -Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go -well together. - -Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some -cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than -vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Twelve_ - -Lazy Lou - - -Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his -heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere -in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. -Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped -back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To -cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and -its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there -came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread." - -The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are -handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people -even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of -their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them. - -My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in -1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with -profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma -Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, -keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and -naturalized Limburgers. - -At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep -their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One -booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation: - - CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM - WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD - -These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any -amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with -German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or -not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? -How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? -Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought. - -Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese -board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the -teams against each other. - - The All-American Champs - -NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ -VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER - CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE - MINNESOTA BLUE - BRICK - TILLAMOOK - - VS. - - The European Giants - -PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN -OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER -YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ - ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE -GERMAN MÜNSTER GREEK FETA - HABLÉ - -The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and -distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian -board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine -with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates -representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland. - -For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the -banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal -Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all -three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky -slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, -about which more later. - -We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant -roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou -will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English -have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, -herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make -do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With -our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily -dispense with the mere dinner itself. - -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. - -True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American -products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are -available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party -will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun. - -Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One -may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; -another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from -Colombia's mountain city, Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic -leaves of _Frailejón Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet -English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with -marigolds; another a tube of South American Kräuterkäse. - -Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of -those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you -want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille -condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty -shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of -different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, -in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green -Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored." - -And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling -cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap -Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are -handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper -pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, -both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of -curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint -leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh -tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black -olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats. - -Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my -wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes -nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting -party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to -twirl the load. - -The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and -the lower one carried the rest, as follows: - - ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR - (rum flavored) - - FRENCH MÜNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH - CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT - - SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA - - ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN - PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST - - HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER - -The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and -Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, -scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly -Britishers fingers were best. - -The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our -best domestic "bar cheese" of old. - -The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented -flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's -Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was -strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price. - -Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy -English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in -waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But -there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to -much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally. - -The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than -most German Münster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by -the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly -matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with -many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones -sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted -the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A -plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, -stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American -pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and -tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they -are not Roquefort. - -The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it has been made in the -Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive -of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted -fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own -seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is -mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like -sage-green color. - -Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately rich, and nutty -enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it -at the source. - -As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes -it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring -flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own -and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another -American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a -pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and -with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet. - -The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as -fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so -much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the -crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise. - -After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on -its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously -ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about -them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load. - -The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked -ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of -its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for -it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a -ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so -we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer -some other day, when it might be more appetizing. - -We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost -that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the -same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our -piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, -undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned -out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a -Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert -about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail -on his little finger. - -"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than -a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you -take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure -for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in -Worcestershire." - -That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, -_instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with -anything less than a blowtorch. - -To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian -Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing -it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with -sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. -We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in -the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and -chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then -spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. -_That's_ Liptauer Garniert. - - - - -[Illustration: No. 4 Cheese Inc.] - -_Appendix_ - -The A-B-Z of Cheese - -_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any -further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese -is made of cow's milk._ - - -A - -Aberdeen -_Scotland_ - -Soft; creamy mellow. - -Abertam -_Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_) - -Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own. - -Absinthe _see_ Petafina. - -Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel. - -Aettekees -_Belgium_ - -November to May--winter-made and eaten. - -Affiné, Carré _see_ Ancien Impérial. - -Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella. - -After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8. - -Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated. - -Aiguilles, Fromage d' -_Alpine France_ - -Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the -district where it is made. - -Aizy, Cendrée d' _see_ Cendrée. - -Ajacilo, Ajaccio -_Corsica_ - -Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French -Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. - -à la Crème _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons. - -à la Main _see_ Vacherin. - -à la Pie _see_ Fromage. - -à la Rachette _see_ Bagnes. - -Albini -_Northern Italy_ - -Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, -pleasant-tasting table cheese. - -Albula -_Switzerland_ - -Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk -that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula -whose proud name it bears. - -Alderney -_Channel Islands_ - -The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special -breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate -it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny. - -Alemtejo -_Portugal_ - -Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way -that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; -sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing -respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller -sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The -method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and -unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made -from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two -other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da -Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. -In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with -_chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so -much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks -for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference -in sizes. - -Alfalfa _see_ Sage. - -Alise Saint-Reine -_France_ - -Soft; summer-made. - -Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, or Allgäuer Emmentaler -_Bavaria_ - -Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain -of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are -two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse and soft Allgäuer -Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through -rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme -that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it -is no wonder that Allgäuer Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. -Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgäu -were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home -caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early -1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went -up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only -when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their -prime. - -Allgäuer Rahmkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. -This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian -mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with -the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the -stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the old-time Slipcote of England. -Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. -Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, -Rahmkäse can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses -in Germany. - -Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe. - -Al Pepe -_Italy_ - -Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_). - -Alpes -_France_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. - -Alpestra -_Austria_ - -A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it -was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy -spells hers Alpestro. - -Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon -_France_ - -Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap. - -Alpestro -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted. - -Alpin or Clérimbert -_Alpine France_ - -The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. The curd is -dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half -inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day -only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. - -Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in -diameter, weight two pounds. - -Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese -_Germany_ - -Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests. - -Altsohl _see_ Brinza. - -Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert -_Limagne, Auvergne, France_ - -A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the -Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe. - -American, American Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen -fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and -Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, -with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, -Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about -sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same -way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are -ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, -richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the -passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4. - -Americano Romano -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; brittle; sharp. - -Amou -_Béarn, France_ - -Winter cheese, October to May. - -Anatolian -_Turkey_ - -Hard; sharp. - -Anchovy Links -_U.S.A._ - -American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any -fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy -links. - -Ancien Impérial -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchâtel and made -in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, -one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when -ripe. It is also called Carré and has separate names for the new and -the old: (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré Affiné, when it -has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same -time as Neufchâtel. - -Ancona _see_ Pecorino. - -Andean -_Venezuela_ - -A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is formed into rough -cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejón -Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic -flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.) - -Andechs -_Bavaria_ - -A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on -Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread -and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes. - -Antwerp -_Belgium_ - -Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin. - -Appenzeller -_Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_ - -Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a -pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two -qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a -year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white -wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with -lees of wine. - -Appetitost -_Denmark_ - -Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up -to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in -which it is made. - -Appetost -_Denmark_ - -Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for -snap. Imitated in U.S.A. - -Apple -_U.S.A._ - -A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked -apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone -and Baby Gouda, no doubt. - -Arber -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains -between Bohemia and Silesia. - -Argentine -_Argentina_ - -Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical -Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and -fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding. - -Armavir -_Western Caucasus_ - -Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour -buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in -a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese. - -Arnauten _see_ Travnik. - -Arovature -_Italy_ - -Water-buffalo milk. - -Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs. - -Arrigny -_Champagne, France_ - -Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the -same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are -specially well suited to one another. - -Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte. - -Artificial Dessert Cheese - -In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made -by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with -powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred -in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a -curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six -to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored -with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an -hour or two and finally served up with more cream. - -Asadero, or Oaxaca -_Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_ - -White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or -kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight -Asadero means "suitable for roasting." - -Asco -_Corsica, France_ - -Made only in the winter season, October to May. - -Asiago I, II and III -_Vicenza, Italy_ - -Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves -weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but -have a taste all their own. - -I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating. - -II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine -months old. - -III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's -fine for grating. - - -Asin, or Water cheese -_Northern Italy_ - -Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring -and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with -honey and fruit. - -Au Cumin -_see_ Münster. - -Au Fenouil -_see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Au Foin and de Foin - -A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage -de Foin. - -Augelot -_Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France_ - -Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type. - -d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne. - -Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney. - -Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Aurore and Triple Aurore -_Normandy, France_ - -Made and eaten all year. - -Australian and New Zealand -_Australia and New Zealand_ - -Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some -Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed. - -Autun -_Nivernais, France_ - -Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it -and this is of special interest in a province where the chief -competitors are made of goat's milk. - -Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu. - -Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses. - -Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette. - -Aydes, les -_Orléanais, France_ - -Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June. - -Azeitão, Queijo do -_Portugal_ - -Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ão_ implies. -There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of -rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. - -Azeitoso -_Portugal_ - -Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named. - -Azuldoch Mountain -_Turkey_ - -Mild and mellow mountain product. - - -B - -Backsteiner -_Bavaria_ - -Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the -shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. -Brick. - -Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette -_Switzerland_ - -Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for -"scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese -and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted -in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced -Welsh Rabbit sandwich. - -Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano -_Italy_ - -Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. - -Bakers' cheese - -Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. -Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, -but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. - -Ball -_U.S.A._ - -Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original -Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. - -Ballakäse or Womelsdorf - -Similar to Ball. - -Balls, Dutch Red - -English name for Edam. - -Banbury -_England_ - -Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, -famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury -cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early -nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today. - -Banick -_Armenia_ - -White and sweet. - -Banjaluka -_Bosnia_ - -Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery. - -Banon, or les Petits Banons -_Provence, France,_ - -Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and -exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly -summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and -festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. - -Bar cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the -U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of -America's cheese industry. - -Barbacena -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading -cheese state of Brazil. - -Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in -diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, -near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated -by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with -a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off -in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened -three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when -made in summer they are often sold fresh. - -Barboux -_France_ - -Soft. - -Baronet -_U.S.A._ - -A natural product, mild and mellow. - -Barron -_France_ - -Soft. - -Bassillac _see_ Bleu. - -Bath -_England_ - -Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic -resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered -with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most -delicate of English-speaking cheeses. - -Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and -western Austria_ - -An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is -only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty -to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower -temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months ---and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though -sharp, full nutty flavor. - -Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) -_Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_ - -Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in -about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is bigger. In two forms, one -cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, -whether made with or without caraway. - -Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkäse. - -Bavarian Cream -_German_ - -Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. -Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. - -Bavarois à la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois. - -Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne. - -Bayrischer Bierkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, -but to dunk in it. - -Beads of cheese -_Tibet_ - -Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a -necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. -_Also see_ Money Made of Cheese. - -Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and -also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk -of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. - -Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons. - -Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont -_Savoy, France_ - -A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret -triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June. - -Beaupré de Roybon -_Dauphiné, France_ - -A winter specialty made from November to April. - -Beckenried -_Switzerland_ - -A good mountain cheese from goat milk. - -Beer cheese -_U.S.A._ - -While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a -translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a type of strong -Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is -considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in -Germany Bierkäse is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of -beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather -than eaten. - -Beer-Regis -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar -named after its hometown in Dorsetshire. - -Beist-Cheese -_Scotland_ - -A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled -or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling -new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill) - -Belarno -_Italy_ - -Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese. - -Belgian Cooked -_Belgium_ - -The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed -and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is -allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to -fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the -fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is -heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds -and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs -about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from -other forms of cooked cheese. - -Beli Sir _see_ Domaci. - -Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head -_Switzerland_ - -Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet -in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not -so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, -the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can -stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are -ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to -ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, -the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is -kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy -spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more -white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest -monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the -jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively -and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. - -Bel Paese -_Italy_ - -_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, -and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The -American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. - -Bel Paesino -_U.S.A._ - -A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive -in every other way. - -Bergkäse _see_ Allgäuer. - -Bergquara -_Sweden_ - -Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets -sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to -forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century. - -Berkeley -_England_ - -Named after its home town in Gloucester, England. - -Berliner Kuhkäse -_Berlin, Germany_ - -Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical -German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's -about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway. - -Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde -_Italy_ - -Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for -flavor. Cured for two months. - -Berques -_France_ - -Made of skim milk. - -Berry Rennet _see_ Withania. - -Bessay, le -_Bourbonnais, France_ - -Soft, mild, and creamy. - -Bexhill -_England_ - -Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. - -Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually -dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, -notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; -sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as -Milwaukee and Hoboken. - -Bifrost -_Norway_ - -Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce -package. - -Binn -_Wallis, Switzerland_ - -Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. - -Bitto -_Northern Italy_ - -Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses -in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When -eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has -small eyes. - -Blanc à la crème _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II. - -Bleu -_France_ - -Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting. - -Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu -_Auvergne, France_ - -Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and -Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same -province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille. - -Bleu de Bassillac -_Limousin, France_ - -Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May. - -Bleu de Laqueuille -_France_ - -Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its -originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century -ago, in 1854. - -Bleu de Limousin, Fromage -_Lower Limousin_ - -Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin. - -Bleu de Salers -_France_ - -A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for -its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only -in the winter months, from November to May. - -Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Blind - -The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong -to, such as blind Swiss. - -Block Edam -_U.S.A._ - -U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of -Edam. - -Block, Smoked -_Austria_ - -The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum. - -Bloder, or Schlicker Milch -_Switzerland_ - -Sour-milker. - -Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton. - -Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue. - -Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset. - -Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel. - -Blue, and Blue with Port Links -_U.S.A._ - -One of the modern American process sausages. - -Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota. - -Blue Moon -_U.S.A._ - -A process product. - -Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for -private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An -epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in -a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal -Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from -which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a -different action. - -Bocconi Geganti -_Italy_ - -Sharp and smoky specialty. - -Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone. - -Boîte _see_ Fromage de Boîte. - -Bombay -_India_ - -Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of -a cracker. - -Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchâtel. - -Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes -_Normandy, France_ - -Nicknamed _Bonde à tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a -barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. -Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. - -Bondon de Rouen -_France_ - -A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to -last up to ten days. - -Bondost -_Sweden_ - -When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost -in Norway. - -Bond Ost -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin. - -Bon Larron -_France_ - -Romantically named "the penitent thief." - -Borden's -_U.S.A._ - -A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the -leader. - -Borelli -_Italy_ - -A small water-buffalo cheese. - -Bossons Maceres -_Provence, France_ - -A winter product, December, January, February and March only. - -Boudanne -_France_ - -Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months. - -Boudes, Boudon -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family. - -Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe. - -Bouillé, la -_Normandy France_ - -One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In -season October to May. - -Boule de Lille -_France_ - -Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it. - -Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai -_Flanders, France_ - -Made from November to May, eaten all year. - -Bourgain -_France_ - -Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed -locally. - -Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes. - -Box -_Württemberg, Germany_ - -Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft: - -I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it -is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with -partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a -handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three -months and shipped in wooden boxes. - -II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess -and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant. - -Bra No. I -_Piedmont, Italy_ - -Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight -twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander -with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. - -Bra No. II -_Turin and Cuneo, Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine. - -Brand or Brandkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd -is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a -day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. -After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently -moistened with beer while curing. - -Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream. - -Branja de Brailia -_Rumania_ - -Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine. - -Branja de Cosulet -_Rumania_ - -Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A -creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism -of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a -gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good -English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor -which must be unique among cheeses. - -Bratkäse -_Switzerland_ - -Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on -toast. - -Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other names -_Germany_ - -Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. -Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in -Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. - -Breakstone -_U.S.A._ - -Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and -manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream -cheese is an American product to be proud of. - -Brésegaut -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, white. - -Breslau -_Germany_ - -A proud Prussian dessert cheese. - -Bressans _see_ les Petits. - -Bresse -_France_ - -Lightly cooked. - -Bretagne _see_ Montauban. - -Brevine -_Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Briançon _see_ Alpin. - -Brick _see_ Chapter 4. - -Brickbat -_Wiltshire, England_ - -A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. -Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before -"it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton. - -Bricotta -_Corsica_ - -Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into -small luscious cakes. - -Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendré and Coulommiers. - -Brie Façon -_France_ - -The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. -Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie -_véritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly -called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France. - -_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France. - -Brie de Meaux -_France_ - -This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation -for high quality. It is made only from November to May. - -Brie de Melun -_France_ - -This Brie _véritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from -November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always -prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring -Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that -ripens until May. - -Brillat-Savarin -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du -Goût_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject -beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is -named in his everlasting praise. - -Brina Dubreala -_Rumania_ - -Semisoft, sheep, done in brine. - -Brindza -_U.S.A._ - -Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as -popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and -Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise -"Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original -Brinza. - -Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, -Brina Dubreala, Briney. - -Briney, or Brined -_Syria_ - -Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. -Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type. - -Brinza, or Brinsen -_Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_ - -Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, -Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, -sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub -with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia. - -Brioler _see_ Westphalia. - -Briquebec _see_ Providence - -Briqueton -_England_ - -The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few -cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth -century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at -the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche. - -Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, -and U.S. Hopi. - -Brizecon -_Savoy, France_ - -Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province. - -Broccio, or le Brocconis -_Corsica, France_ - -Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to -Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, -where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and -half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and -eaten all year. - -Broodkaas -_Holland_ - -Hard, flat, nutty. - -Brousses de la Vézubie, les -_Nice, France_ - -Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar -or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie. - -Brussels or Bruxelles -_Belgium_ - -Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal -districts. - -Budapest -_Hungary_ - -Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and -abroad in Vienna. - -Buderich -_Germany_ - -A specialty in Dusseldorf. - -Bulle -_Switzerland_ - -A Swiss-Gruyère. - -Bundost -_Sweden_ - -Semihard; mellow; tangy. - -Burgundy -_France_ - -Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully -together. - -Bushman -_Australia_ - -Semihard; yellow; tangy. - -Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8. - -"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar. - -Buttermilk -_U.S. & Europe_ - -Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain. - - -C - -Cabeçou, le -_Auvergne, France_ - -Small; goat; from Maurs. - -Cabrillon -_Auvergne, France_ - -So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under -the rind. - -Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux - -_Provence Mountains, France_ - -Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry -seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to -November. - -Caciocavallo -_Italy_ - -"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated -all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Caciocavallo Siciliano -_Sicily, also in U.S.A._ - -Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but -sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between -17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. - -Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta -_Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten -fresh. - -Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino. - -Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari. - -Caerphilly -_Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_ - -Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold -"green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when -weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities -it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it -specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and -does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. - -Caillebottes (Curds) -_France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée_ - -Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with -chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and -served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. -A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (_see_). Other cheeses -are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon -juice, especially in Portugal. - -Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots. - -Caille de Habas -_Gascony, France_ - -Clabbered or clotted sheep milk. - -Cajassou -_Périgord, France_ - -A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac. - -Calabrian -_Italy_ - -The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo. - -Calcagno -_Sicily_ - -Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating. - -Caledonian Cream -_Scotland_ - -More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner -Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange -marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half -an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good -ice-pudding." - -Calvados -_France_ - -Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same -province. - -Calvenzano -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. - -Cambrai _see_ Boulette. - -Cambridge, or York -_England_ - -Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and -dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours. - -Camembert _see_ Chapter 3. - -"Camembert" -_Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_ - -A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box -which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert -_véritable_ of Normandy. - -Camosun -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed -in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated -with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° -to 60° F. - -Canadian Club -_see_ Cheddar Club. - -Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, -Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comté, -France_ - -Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and -sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and -pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one -of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort. - -Canestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to -mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to -perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for -Italian settlers. - -Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and -La Tome. -_Auvergne, France_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; -yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a -hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures -is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still -made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very -old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or -Guiole. - -Capitanata -_Italy_ - -Sheep. - -Caprian -_Capri, Italy_ - -Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, -and tangy as a buck. - -Caprino (Little Goat) -_Argentina_ - -Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese. - -Caraway Loaf -_U.S.A._ - -This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses -that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese -but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long -made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the -fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from -Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian -Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to -Pennsylvania Pot. - -Cardiga, Queijo da -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, -a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other -cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild -artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can -compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. -They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. - -Carlsbad -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive. - -Carré Affiné -_France_ - -Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and -Ancien Impérial (_see_). - -Carré de l'Est -_France_ - -Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A. - -Cascaval Penir -_Turkey_ - -Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home. - -Caseralla -_Greece_ - -Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy. - -Casere -_Greece_ - -Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet -tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with -goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. - -Cashera -_Armenia and Greece_ - -Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and -high in quality. - -Cashera -_Turkey_ - -Semihard; sheep. - -Casher Penner _see_ Kasher. - -Cashkavallo -_Syria_ - -Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo. - -Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca -_Sardinia_ - -Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method. - -Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta. - -Caspian -_Caucasus_ - -Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to -speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting. - -Cassaro -_Italy_ - -Locally consumed, seldom exported. - -Castelmagno -_Italy_ - -Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type. - -Castelo Branco, White Castle -_Portugal_ - -Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da -Estrella (_see_). - -Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Castle, Schlosskäse -_North Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Catanzaro -_Italy_ - -Consumed locally, seldom exported. - -Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf. - -Celery -_Norway_ - -Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway. - -Cendrée, la -_France--Orléanais, -Blois & Aube_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, -Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet - -Cendré d'Aizy -_Burgundy, France_ - -Available all year. _See_ la Cendrée. - -Cendré de la Brie -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May. - -Cendré Champenois or Cendré des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes. - -Cendré Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis. - -Certoso Stracchino -_Italy, near Milan_ - -A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have -made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than -the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has -less distinction for the same reason. - -Ceva -_Italy_ - -Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. - -Chabichou -_Poitou, France_ - -Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months -from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to -be vintaged like wine by the year. - -Chaingy -_Orléans, France_ - -Season September to June. - -Cham -_Switzerland_ - -One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister -Pfister (_see_ Pfister). - -Chamois milk - -Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. -This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not -available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain -goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, -most flavorsome of milk. - -Champenois or Fromage des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des -Riceys. - -Champoléon de Queyras -_Hautes-Alpes, France_. - -Hard; skim-milker. - -Chantelle -_U.S.A._ - -Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best -purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, -perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger." - -Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Chaource -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living -Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert. - -Chapelle -_France_ - -Soft. - -Charmey Fine -_Switzerland_ - -Gruyère type. - -Chaschol, or Chaschosis -_Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_ - -Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by -three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds. - -Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chèvre. - -Chaumont -_Champagne, France_ - -Season November to May. - -Chavignol _see_ Crottin. - -Chechaluk -_Armenia_ - -Soft; pot; flaky; creamy. - -Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3. - -Cheese bread -_Russia and U.S.A._ - -For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread -called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See -both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft -and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. -It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid -with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with -Sapsago. - -Cheese butter - -Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and -mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to -be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. - -Cheese food -_U.S.A._ - -"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from -milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, -relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." -(A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement - -Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. - -Cheese mites _see_ Mites. - -Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in -Chapter 3. - -Cheshire-Stilton -_England_ - -In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold -peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by -keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in -which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and -shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, -making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is -Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. - -Chester -_England_ - -Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was -imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. - -Chevalier -_France_ - -Curds sweetened with sugar. - -Chevèlle -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Wisconsin. - -Chèvre _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre petit _see_ Petìts Fromages. - -Chèvre, Tome de _see_ Tome. - -Chevretin -_Savoy, France_ - -Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. - -Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy -_Bresse & Franche-Comté, France_ - -Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season -December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in -France. - -Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the -railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. - -Chevrotins -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and -eaten from March to December. - -Chhana -_Asia_ - -All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, -and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. - -Chiavari -_Italy_ - -There are two different kinds named for -the Chiavari region, and both are hard: - I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. -II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the - historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the - birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with - its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. - -Chives cream cheese - -Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, -there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See -both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as -it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. - -Christalinna -_Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. - -Christian IX -_Denmark_ - -A distinguished spiced cheese. - -Ciclo -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese. - -Cierp de Luchon -_France_ - -Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the -distinction of being the only local product worth listing with -France's three hundred notables. - -Citeaux -_Burgundy, France_ - -Trappist Port-Salut. - -Clabber cheese -_England_ - -Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and -automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. - -Clairvaux -_France_ - -Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. - -Claqueret, le -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ -Chives. - -Clérimbert _see_ Alpin. - -Cleves -_France_ - -French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. - -Cloves _see_ Nagelkäse. - -Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese -_U.S.A. and Canada_ - -Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, -but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by -an American company and is now all-American. - -Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very -ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp -Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and -mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are -getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. -All are described as "tangy." - -Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small -porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller -tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." - -Cocktail Cheeses - -Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" -stores: - -Argentine aged Gruyère -Canadian d'Oka -French Bleu -Brie -Camembert -Fontainebleu -Pont l'Evêque -Port du Salut -Roblochon -Roquefort -Grecian Feta -Hungarian Brinza -Polish Warshawski Syr -Rumanian Kaskaval -Swiss Schweizerkäse -American Cheddar in brandy -Hopi Indian - -Coeur à la Crème -_Burgundy, France_ - -This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (_see_) when served with sugar, and -it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that -romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. - -Coeurs d'Arras -_Artois, France_ - -These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with -the cream of Arras. - -Coffee-flavored cheese - -Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with -their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with -Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving -by putting coffee in for flavor. - -Coimbra -_Portugal_ - -Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of -those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the -honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. - -Colby -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains -more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. - -College-educated - -Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their -colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another -called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big -cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in -Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with -one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of -high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe -the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign -imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in -this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of -Emmentaler. - -Colwick _see_ Slipcote. - -Combe-air -_France_ - -Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. - -Commission -_Holland_ - -Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in -color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight -pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. -It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. - -Compiègne -_France_ - -Soft - -Comté _see_ Gruyère. - -Conches -_France_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Condrieu, Rigotte de la -_Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ - -Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of -cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is -rich. - -Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. - -Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. - -Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot -_U.S.A._ - -Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool -it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. -Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is -stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It -is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned -out. - -All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk -flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to -white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, -with or without caraway, such as the following: - -Belgium--Kochtounkäse -Germany--Kochkäse, Topfen -Luxembourg--Kochenkäse -France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux -Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa - -Coon _see_ Chapter 4. - -Cornhusker -_U.S.A._ - -A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body -and more moisture. - -Cornimont -_Vosges, France_ - -A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in -flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé -and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. - -Corse, Roquefort de -_Corsica, France_ - -Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of -course. - -Cossack -_Caucasus_ - -Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: -I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in - the salt bath. -II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. - -Cotherstone -_Yorkshire, England_ - -Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) - -Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. - -Cotta _see_ Pasta. - -Cottage cheese - -Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America -it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like -playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from -the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, -together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania -Dutch cuisine. - -Cottenham or Double Cottenham -_English Midlands_ - -Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and -richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. - -Cottslowe -_Cotswold, England_ - -A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. -Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. - -Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) - -Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers -_France_ - -Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a -pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch -high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris -and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is -made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than -most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by -the avalanche of American summer tourists. - -Cow cheese - -Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying -word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow -cheese. - -Cream cheese -_International_ - -England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins -with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool -in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild -strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also -drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small -molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the -following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: - -Cambridge -Cottslowe -Cornwall -Farm Vale -Guilford -Homer's -"Italian" -Lincoln -New Forest -Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) -St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) -Scotch Caledonian -Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) -Victoria -York - -Crème Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Crème de Gien _see_ Fromage. - -Crème de Gruyère -_Franche-Comté France_ - -Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in -tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. - -Crème des Vosges -_Alsace, France_ - -Soft cream. Season October to April. - -Crème Double _see_ Double-Crème. - -Crème, Fromage à la _see_ Fromage. - -Crème, Fromage Blanc à la _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Crème St Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème St Gervais. - -Crèmet Nantais -_Lower Loire, France_ - -Soft fresh cream of Nantes. - -Crèmets, les -_Anjou, France_ - -A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert -than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, -drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and -sugar. - -Cremini -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the -way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of -musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. - -Creole -_Louisiana, U.S.A._ - -Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type -curd and rich cream. - -Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole -milk. Made from September to April. - -Creuse -_Creuse, France_ - -A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different -ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated -earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, -where it has drained for several days: - I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. -II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. - This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay - or Fromage de Foin.) - -Creusois, or Guéret -_Limousin, France_ - -Season, October to June. - -Croissant Demi-sel -_France_ - -Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. - -Crottin de Chavignol -_Berry, France_ - -Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April -to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. - -Crowdie, or Cruddy butter -_Scotland_ - -Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together -with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross -Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd -and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, -the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. - -Crying Kebbuck - -F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name -of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. - -Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. - -Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. - -Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. - -Cumin, Münster au _see_ Münster. - -Cup _see_ Koppen. - -Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. - -Curds and butter -_Arabia_ - -Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in -making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong -mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. - -Curé, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. - - -D - -Daisies, fresh - -A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. -Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use -for seasoning. - -Dalmatian -_Austria_ - -Hard ewe's-milker. - -Dambo -_Denmark_ - -Semihard and nutty. - -Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) -_Hungary_ - -Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular -Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon. - -Danish Blue -_Denmark_ - -Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of -Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is -exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although -it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of -Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and -definitely leads lesser Blues. - -Danish Export -_Denmark_ - -Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine -cheese, as many Danish exports are. - -Dansk Schweizerost -_Denmark_ - -Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. -Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. - -Danzig -_Poland_ - -A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, -Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. - -Darling -_U.S.A._ - -One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of -America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. - -Dauphin -_Flanders, France_ - -Season, November to May. - -d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. - -Daventry -_England_ - -A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" -veins of a darker green. - -Decize -_Nivernaise, France_ - -In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. - -de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. - -de Fontine -_Spain_ - -Crumbly, sharp, nutty. - -de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. - -de Gérardmer _see_ Récollet. - -Delft -_Holland_ - -About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) - -Délicieux - -The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. - -Delikat -_U.S.A._ - -A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück -original. (_See_.) - -de Lile, Boule - -French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. - -Demi-Étuve - -Half-size Étuve. (_See_.) - -Demi Petit Suisse - -The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the -Gros. - -Demi-Sel -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly -saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. - -Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. - -Derby, or Derbyshire -_England_ - -Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though -sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A -factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar -to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a -somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the -flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in -spite of its name. - -Devonshire cream and cheese -_England_ - -Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. -Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. -Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, -which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay -cheese. - -Dolce Verde -_Italy_ - -This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because -cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the -green-blues. - -Domaci Beli Sir -_Yugoslavia_ - -"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical -ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. - -Domestic Gruyère -_U.S.A._ - -An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. - -Domestic Swiss -_U.S.A_ - -Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous -150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is -there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. - -Domiati -_Egypt_ - -Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no -openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's -called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. - -Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny -_England_ - -Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. -"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. -Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than -that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) - -Dotter -_Nürnberg, Germany_ - -An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He -enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual -way. When well ripened it is splendid. - -Doubles - -The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double -Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses -from which some of the cream has been removed. - -Double-cream -_England_ - -Similar to Wensleydale. - -Double-crème -_France_ - -There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is -richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and -Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season -and are much in demand. - -Dresdener Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim -milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as -merely eaten. - -Drinking cheeses - -Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic -countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make -distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up -the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with -pepper sauce in some parts. - -Dry -_Germany_ - -From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. -"This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small -dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It -is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in -the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other -purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle -which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is -thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked -quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed -are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then -placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready -for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) - -Dubreala _see_ Brina. - -Duel -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. - -Dunlop -_Scotland_ - -One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, -which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. -Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one -of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and -weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of -Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. - -Durak -_Turkey_ - -Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. - -Duralag, or Bgug-Panir -_Armenia_ - -Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy -with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days -to two months. - -Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. - -Dutch -_Holland_ - -Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. - -Dutch cheese - -American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. - -Dutch Cream Cheese -_England_ - -Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore -richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call -the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. - -Dutch Mill -_U.S.A._ - -A specialty of Oakland, California. - -Dutch Red Balls - -English name for Edam. - - -E - -Echourgnac, Trappe d' -_Périgord, France_ - -Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. - -Edam _see_ Chapter 3. - -Egg -_Finland_ - -Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. -Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that -these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by -their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen -their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all -Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of -them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. - -Elbinger, or Elbing -_West Prussia_ - -Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is -skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse. - -Ekiwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed -in. - -Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the -brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in -different locales. - -Elmo Table -_Italy_ - -Soft, mellow, tasty. - -Emiliano -_Italy_ - -Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. - -Emmentaler -_Switzerland_ - -There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the -world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese -listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter -3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) - -"En enveloppe" - -French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to -English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to -frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." - -Engadine -_Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. - -English Dairy -_England and U.S.A._ - -Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been -imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. - -Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. - -Epoisses, Fromage d' -_Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ - -Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The -season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and -cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in -making _confits_ with that name. - -Erbo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out -both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. - -Erce -_Languedoc, France_ - -Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November -to May. - -Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. - -Ervy -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half -inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also -known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. - -Essex -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. - -Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. - -Étuve and Demi-Étuve -_Holland_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season -all year. - -Evarglice -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sharp, nutty flavor. - -Excelsior -_Normandy, France_ - -Season all year. - - -F - -Factory Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp -Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too -tractable, in fact. - -Farm -_France_ - -Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with -apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. - -Farmer -_U.S.A._ - -This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, -fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, -or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the -oven. - -Farmhouse _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Farm Vale -_England_ - -Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, -eight to a box. - -Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. - -Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Ferme _see_ Farm. - -Feta _see_ Chapter 3. - -Feuille de Dreux -_Béarn, France_ - -November to May. - -"Filled cheese" -_England_ - -Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese -business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to -make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed -the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in -America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. -But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many -foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony -fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up -coagulation. - -Fin de Siècle -_Normandy, France_ - -Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the -years at the close of the nineteenth century. - -Fiore di Alpe -_Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." - -Fiore Sardo -_Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully -cured. - -Flandre, Tuile de -_France_ - -A kind of Marolles. - -Fleur de Deauville -_France_ - -A type of Brie, in season December to May. - -Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. - -Floedeost -_Norway_ - -Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. - -Fløtost -_Norway_ - -Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. -Similar to Mysost, but fatter. - -Flower -_England_ - -Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, -delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas -scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea -of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese -for them to import except bean curd. - -Fodder cheese - -A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. -Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or -barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. - -Foggiano -_Apulia, Italy_ - -A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. - -Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. - -Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. - -Fontainebleau -_France_ - -Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; -summer variety. - -Fontina -_Val d'Acosta, Italy_ - -Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. - -Fontine, de -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A favorite all-year product. - -Fontinelli -_Italy_ - -Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. - -Fontini -_Parma, Italy_ - -Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same -region as Parmesan. - -Food cheese -_U.S.A._ - -An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese -content to flavor it. - -Forez, also called d'Ambert -_France_ - -The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening -unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six -inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the -cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. -Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The -flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From -_Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we -are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this -alphabet.) - -Formagelle -_Northwest Italy_ - -Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. - -Formaggi di Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming -and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it -into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, -Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. - -Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco -_Italy_ - -Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. -A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two -ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it -ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with -the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and -cinnamon. - -Formaggio d'Oro -_Northwest Italy_ - -Hard, sharp, mountain-made. - -Formaggio Duro (Dry) -and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. - -Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. - -Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome -_Auvergne, France_ - -This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where -many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as -Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert -and Cantal.) - -Fourme de Montebrison -_Auvergne, France_ - -This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. - -Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely -it is sometimes sold under that name. - -Fresa, or Pannedas -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. - -Fribourg -_Italy and Switzerland_ - -Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) - -Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese -_Holland_ - -Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is -made in winter, beginning in November. - -Friesian _see_ West Friesian. - -Fromage à la Creme -_France_ - - I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of - Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. - II. Franche-Comté--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, - whipped egg whites and sugar. -III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is - hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a - little fresh milk and served with cream. - IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket - for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème, - heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. - -Fromage à la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm - -Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille -_France_ - -Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after -Bavaria where it probably originated. - -Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à -la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt -and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la -Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, -except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and -called Fromage Blanc à la Crème. - -Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of -fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also -called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are -Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. - -Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) -_Thionville, Lorraine, France_ - -Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in -many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed -and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk -and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. - -Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. - -Fromage de Bayonne -_Bayonne, France_ - -Made with ewe's milk. - -Fromage de Bôite -_Doubs, France_ - -Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque. - -Fromage de Bourgogne - -_see_ Burgundy. - -Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux -_Berry, France_ - -A seasonal goat cheese. - -Fromage de Curé _see_ Nantais. - -Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté -_Poitou, France_ - -Half goat and half cow milk. - -Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. - -Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncée. - -Fromage de St. Rémy _see_ Chevrets. - -Fromage de Serac -_Savoy, France_ - -Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. - -Fromage de Troyes -_France_ - -Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) - -Fromage de Vache - -Another name for Autun. - -Fromage de Monsieur Fromage -_Normandy, France_ - -This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season -runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe -from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, -mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name -suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. -Chicken. - -Fromage Fort -_France_ - -Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the -department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth -and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After -being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, -salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before -fermenting some more. - -Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and -Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all -France. - -_Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the -gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. - -_Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded -and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ -Hazebrook.) - -_Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In -production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with -brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. - -Fromage Gras (fat cheese) -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, round, fat ball called _tête de mort_, "death's head." Winter -Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name -incited Victor Meusy to these lines: - - _Les gens à l'humeur morose - Prennent la Tête-de-Mort._ - - People of a morose disposition - Take the Death's Head. - -Fromage Mou - -Any soft cheese. - -Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. - -Fromagère _see_ Canquillote. - -Fromages de Chèvre -_Orléanais, France_ - -Small, dried goat-milkers. - -Frühstück - -Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half -to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many -Germans and Americans break their fast. - -Ftinoporino -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. - - -G - -Gaiskäsli -_Germany and Switzerland_ - -A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three -inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half -pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the -whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt -the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. - -Gammelost -_Norway_ - -Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned -daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So -far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way -through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to -medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his -_Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the -ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of -eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi -flavored with cheese." - -Garda -_Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town -on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious -little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the -moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. - -Garden -_U.S.A._ - -Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. - -Garlic -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. - -Garlic-onion Link -_U.S.A._ - -A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, -nobody knows why. - -Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ - -Gautrias -_Mayenne, France_ - -Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. - -Gavot -_Hautes-Alpes, France_ - -A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. - -Geheimrath -_Netherlands_ - -A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep -yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight - -Gérardmer, de _see_ Récollet - -German-American adopted types - -Bierkäse -Delikat -Grinnen -Hand -Harzkäse -Kümmelkäse -Koppen -Lager -Liederkranz -Mein Kaese -Münster -Old Heidelberg -Schafkäse (sheep) -Silesian -Stein -Tilsit -Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer) - -Géromé, la -_Vosges, France_ - -Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, -but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. -It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. - -Gervais -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. -Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. -Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. - -Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. - -Getmesost -_Sweden_ - -Soft; goat; whey; sweet. - -Gex -_Pays de Gex, France_ - -Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from -November to May. - -Gex Marbré -_France_ - -A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, -mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues -family, that are green in spite of their name. - -Gien _see_ Fromage à la Crème. - -Gislev -_Scandinavia_ - -Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. - -Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made -with goat's milk. - -Glavis -_Switzerland_ - -The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) - -Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse -_Germany_ - -Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that -includes Olmützer Quargel. - -Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. - -Gloucester -_Gloucestershire, England_ - -There are two types: - I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six - months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of - flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure - its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply - to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you - then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the - praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." - _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by André L. Simon. -II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester - ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" - brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and - "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is - from an old vintage." - -Glumse -_West Prussia, Germany_ - -A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. - -Glux -_Nivernais, France_ - -Season, all year. - -Goat -_France_ - -A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. -Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled -dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants -smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, -goat cheese is always notable or noble. - -Gold-N-Rich -_U.S.A._ - -Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. -Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and -deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red -rind. - -Gomost -_Norway_ - -Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is -curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a -butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) - -Gorgonzola -_Italy_ - -Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is -White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by -local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. - -Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. - -Gouda, Kosher -_Holland_ - -The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit -more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the -Jewish authorities who prepare it. - -Goya -_Corrientes, Argentine_ - -Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses -the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes -Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. - -It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines -the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same -for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of -which excel the originals. - -Gournay -_Seine, France_ - -Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 -pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of -an inch thick and four inches long. - -Grana -_Italy_ - -Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that -the curd is cut into. - -Grana Lombardo -_Lombardy_ - -The same hard type for grating, named -after its origin in Lombardy. - -Grana Reggiano -_Reggio, Italy_ - -A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not -only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes -by a pet name of its own--Regianito. - -Grande Bornand, la -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. - -Gras, or Velvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tête de -Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of -Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tête de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras -is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France -and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) - -Gratairon -_France_ - -Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. - -Graubünden -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Green Bay -_U.S.A._ - -Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the -Limburger county. - -Grey -_Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ - -Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. -Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. -It has a very pleasant taste. - -Gruyère _see_ Chapter 3. - -Güssing, or Land-l-kas -_Austria_ - -Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. - - -H - -Habas _see_ Caille. - -Hablé Crème Chantilly -_Ösmo, Sweden_ - -Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old -Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and -sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big -city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the -finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Hand _see_ Chapter 3. - -Hard -_Puerto Rico_ - -Dry; tangy. - -Harzkäse, Harz -_Harz Mountains, Germany_ - -Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying -from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little -boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like -Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. - -Harzé -_Belgium_ - -Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery -at Harzé. - -Hasandach -_Turkey_ - -Bland; sweet. - -Hauskäse. -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. Disk-shaped. - -Haute Marne -_France_ - -Soft; square. - -Hay, or Fromage au Foin -_Seine, France_ - -A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write -home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. - -Hazebrook - -There are two kinds: - - I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and - pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. - -II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and - marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. - -Head - -Four cheeses are called Head: - -The French Death's Head. -Swiss Monk's Head. -Dutch Cat's Head. -Moor's Head. - -There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only -a cheese by discourtesy. - -Health _see_ Holstein. - -Herbesthal -_Germany_ - -Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. - -Herkimer -_U.S.A._ - -Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. - -Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House -_West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ - -Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. -Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden -and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. - -Herrgårdstyp _see_ Hushållsost. - -Hervé -_Belgium_ - -Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, -parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in -three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. - -Hickory Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. - -Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. - -Hohenheim -_Germany_ - -Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) - -Hoi Poi -_China_ - -Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. - -Hoja _see_ Queso de. - -Hollander -_North Germany_ - -Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. - -Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. - -Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner -_Germany_ - -Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. - -Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a -little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into -half-pound molds and cooled. - -Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse -_Germany_ - -Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. - -Hop, Hopfen -_Germany_ - -Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal -beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. - -Hopi -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the -Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. - -Horner's -_England_ - -An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce -originated. - -Horse Cheese - -Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of -the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. - -Hum -_Holland_ - -Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you -say "Ho-hum." - -Hushållsost, Household Cheese -_Sweden_ - -Popular in three types: -Herrgårdstyp--Farmhouse -Västgötatyp--Westgotland -Sveciatyp--Swedish - -Hvid Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of -Scandinavia. - - -I - -Icelandic - -In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is -like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like -the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. - -Ihlefield -_Mecklenburg, Germany_ - -A hand cheese. - -Ilha, Queijo de -_Azores_ - -Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, -measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, -_Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as -_Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their -cheeses. - -Impérial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. - -Imperial Club -_Canada_ - -Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien -Impérial. - -Incanestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" -from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the -three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. - -Irish Cheeses - -Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named -after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, -Three Counties, etc. - -Isigny -_France_ - -Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The -American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt -to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be -closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) - -In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as -famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as -any cream can. - -Island of Orléans -_Canada_ - -This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by -early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island -in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, -Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name -"refined." - - -J - -Jack _see_ Monterey. - -Jochberg -_Tyrol, Germany_ - -Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain -cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs -in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. - -Jonchée -_Santonge, France_ - -A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, -uniquely, black coffee. - -Josephine -_Silesia, Germany_ - -Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical -packages. - -Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. - -Julost -_Sweden_. - -Semihard; tangy. - -Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel -_France_ - -Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. - - -K - -Kaas, Oude -_Belgium_ - -Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. - -Kackavalj -_Yugoslavia_ - -Same as Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kaiser-käse -_Germany_ - -This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still -made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, -yellow container of tang. - -Kajmar, or Serbian Butter -_Serbia and Turkey_ - -Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between -that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. - -Kamembert -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Camembert. - -Karaghi La-La -_Turkey_ - -Nutty and tangy. - -Kareish -_Egypt_ - -A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. - -Karut -_India_ - -Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. - -Karvi -_Norway_ - -Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. - -Kash -_Rumania_ - -Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. - -Kashcavallo, Caskcaval -_Greece_ - -A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kasher, or Caher, Penner -_Turkey_ - -Hard; white; sharp. - -Kash Kwan -_Bulgaria and the Balkans_ - -An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, -grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is -sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big -American cities. - -Kaskaval -_Rumania_ - -Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in -Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As -popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. - -Kasseri -_Greece_ - -Hard; ewe's milk, usually. - -Katschkawalj -_Serbia_ - -Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. - -Katzenkopf, Cat's Head -_Holland_ - -Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Kaukauna Club -_U.S.A._ - -Widely advertised processed cheese food. - -Kauna -_Lithuania_ - -A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. - -Kefalotir, Kefalotyi -_Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ - -Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or -ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or -Kefalo. - -Keg-ripened -_see_ Brand. - -King Christian IX -_Denmark_ -Sharp with caraway. Popular with -everybody. - -Kingdom Farm -_U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ -The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and -Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky -enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not -available elsewhere. - -Kirgischerkäse _see_ Krutt. - -Kjarsgaard -_Denmark_ - -Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. - -Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese -_Germany_ - -A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to -promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the -_Konditories_. - -Kloster, Kloster Käse -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this -was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting -tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named -from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. - -Kochenkäse -_Luxembourg_ - -Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended -for diets. - -Koch Käse -_Germany_ - -This translates "cooked cheese." - -Kochtounkäse -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. - -Kolos-monostor -_Rumania_ - -Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of -those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and -professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. - -Kolosvarer -_Rumania_ - -A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are -so many of the world's fine cheeses. - -Komijnekaas, Komynekass -_North Holland_ - -Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. - -Konigskäse -_Germany_ - -A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. - -Kopanisti -_Greece_ - -Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. - -Koppen, Cup, or Bauden -_Germany_ - -Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape -and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. -Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. - -Korestin -_Russia_ - -Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. - -Kosher - -This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to -Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish -authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) - -Krauterkäse -_Brazil_ - -Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the -Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss -Krauterkäse even though it is processed. - -Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese -_Switzerland_ - -Hard, grating cheese flavored with -herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse. - -Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse -_Asian Steppes_ - -A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, -from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and -pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. - -Kühbacher -_Bavaria_ - -Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, -where it is made. - -Kuminost -_Norway_ - -Semihard; caraway-seeded. - -Kumminost -_Sweden_ - -This is Bondost with caraway added. - -Kummin Ost -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin -where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. - -Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas -_Holland_ - -Caraway-seeded and named. - -Kümmelkäse -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for -itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to -imported kümmel liqueur. - - -L - -Labneh -_Syria_ - -Sour-milk. - -La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau -_France_ - -Cream cheese. - -Lager Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is -more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. - -Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole -_Aveyron, France_ - -An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman -occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full -season from November to May. - -Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray -_Poitou_ - -Goat cheese made from May to November. - -Lancashire, or Lancaster -_North England_ - -White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. -It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in -the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. -It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of -different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. -Deep orange in color. - -Land-l-kas, or Güssing -_Austria_ - -Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. - -Langlois Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly -compete with Roquefort. - -Langres -_Haute-Marne, France_ - -Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, -high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, -said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. -Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two -pounds. Consumed mostly at home. - -Lapland -_Lapland_ - -Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and -flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. - -Laredo -_Mexico_ - -Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. - -Larron -_France_ - -A kind of Maroilles. - -Latticini -_Italy_ - -Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. - -Laumes, les -_Burgundy, France_ - -Made from November to July. - -Lauterbach -_Germany_ - -Breakfast cheese - -Leaf _see_ Tschil. - -Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy -_Germany_ - -A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great -_milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point -in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick -and stirred with a Danish stirrer." - -Lebanie -_Syria_ - -Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. - -Lecco, Formaggini di -_Italy_ - -Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese -family as big as the human family of most Italians. - -Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. - -LeGuéyin -_Lorraine, France_ - -Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper -make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. - -Leicester -_England_ - -Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty -pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With -Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. - -An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made -for each other." - -Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. - -Leonessa - -A kind of Pecorino. - -Leroy -_U.S.A._ - -Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. - -Lerroux -_France_ - -Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or -winter months. - -Lescin -_Caucasus_ - -Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into -a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken -up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But -after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing -two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and -wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. - -The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine -in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as -in many wild and mountainous parts. - -Les Petits Bressans -_Bresse, France_ - -Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump -pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in -fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. - -Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. - -Le Vacherin - -Name given to two entirely different varieties: - I. Vacherin à la Main -II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) - -Levroux -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to December. - -Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese -_Holland_ - -Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of -Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made -on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory -product. - -Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. - -Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Lincoln -_England_ - -Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where -there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big -break for most natural cheeses. - -Lindenhof -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. - -Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu -_Hungary_ - -A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from -which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name -for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk -and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most -sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour -milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." -(_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Lipto -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both -Liptauer and Brinza. - -Little Nippy -_U.S.A._ - -Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to -"slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no -matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. - -Livarot -_Calvados, France_ - -Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, -fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the -same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months -when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six -by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of -caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By -June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early -in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the -cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and -help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, -piquant Livarot. - -Livlander -_Russia_ - -A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese -itself is red, not the rind. - -Locatelli -_Italy_ - -A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. - -Lodigiano, or Lombardo -_Lodi, Italy_ - -Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; -surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan -but not as fine in quality. - -Longhorn -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long -horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn -breed of cow that furnished the makings. - -Lorraine -_Lorraine, Germany_ - -Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio -nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce -portions that bring a very high price. - -Lumburger -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because -it has no odor. - -Lunch -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener. - -Lüneberg -_West Austria_ - -Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as -Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a -character of its own. - -Luxembourg -_U.S.A._ - -Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. - - -M - -Maconnais -_France_ - -Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. - -Macqueline -_Oise, France_ - -Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper -price. - -Madridejos -_Spain_ - -Named for Madrid where it is made. - -Magdeburger-kuhkäse -_Germany_ - -"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. - -Magerkäse _see_ Holstein Skim Milk - -Maggenga, Sorte -_Italy_ - -A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. - -Maguis -_Belgium_ - -Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. - -Maigre -_France_ - -A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras -and spring Migras. - -Maile -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine -bath where it stays sometimes a year. - -Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. - -Mainauer -_German_ - -Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three -pounds. - -Mainzer Hand -_German_ - -Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for -quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in -kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in -making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. - -Majocchino -_Sicily, Italy_ - -An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, -sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of -Incanestrato. - -Malakoff -_France_ - -A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or -ripe. - -Manicamp -_French Flanders_ - -In season from October to July. - -Mano, Queso de -_Venezuela_ - -A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. -(_See_ Venezuelan.) - -Manor House _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Manteca, Butter -_Italy_ - -Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering -of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual -for any Italian cheese. - -Manur, or Manuri -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers -can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added -with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and -allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and -dried." - -Maqueé -_Belgium_ - -Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. - -Marches -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk; hard. - -Margarine -_England_ - -An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. - -Margherita -_Italy_ - -Soft; cream; small. - -Marienhofer -_Austria_ - -Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; -weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. - -Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand -_Germany_ - -Soft; smelly; hand type. - -Maroilles, Marolles, Marole -_Flanders, France_ - -Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. -Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five -inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. - -Martha Washington Aged Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in -Chapter 4.) - -Mascarpone, or Macherone -_Italy_ - -Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in -muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. - -McIntosh -_Alaska_ - -An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and -described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at -times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar -Box_ by Dean Collins. - -McLaren's -_U.S.A._ - -Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in -Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. - -Meadowbloom -_U.S.A._ - -Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. - -Mecklenburg Skim -_Germany_ - -No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. - -Meilbou -_France_ - -Made in the Champagne district. - -Mein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. - -Melfa -_U.S.A._ - -Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half -moons. - -Melun -_France_ -Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de -Melun. - -Mentelto -_Italy_ -Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains - -Merignac -_France_ -Goat. - -Merovingian -_Northeast France_ -Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the -Merovingian kings. - -Mersem -_France_ -Lightly cooked. - -Mesitra -_Crimea_ -Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. - -Mesost -_Sweden_ -Whey; sweetish. - -Metton -_Franche-Comté, France_ -Season October to June. - -Meuse -_France_ -Soft; piquant; aromatic. - -Midget Salami Provolone -_U.S.A._ -This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, -too. - -Mignot -_Calvados, France_ -_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season -only in summer, April to September. - -_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only -seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and -popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados -cider, fresh, hard or distilled. - -Migras - -Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin -summer Maigre. - -Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches -thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. - -Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. - -Millefiori -_Milan, Italy_ - -A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no -cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. - -Milltown Bar -_U.S.A._ - -Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. - -Milk cheeses - -Milks that make cheese around the world: - -Ass -Buffalo -Camel -Chamois -Elephant -Goat -Human (_see_ Mother's milk) -Llama -Mare -Reindeer -Sea cow (Amazonian legend) -Sheep -Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) -Yak -Zebra -Zebu - -U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange -animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. - -Milwaukee Kümmelkäse -and Hand Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and -successfully imitated. - -Minas -_Brazil_ - -Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. -Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands -are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss -professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the -State Capital, Bello Horizonte. - -Minnesota Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, -Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals -to be proud of. - -Mintzitra -_in Macedonia; and_ -Mitzithra -_in Greece_ - -Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep -cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. - -Modena, Monte -_U.S.A._ - -Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. - -Mohawk Limburger -Spread -_U.S.A._ - -A brand that comes in one-pound jars. - -Moliterno -_Italy_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ - -Monceau -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard, similar to Maroilles. - -Moncenisio -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. - -Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse -_Austria_ - -This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the -Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch -of the Limburgers. - -The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is -shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle -Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of -whole milk. - -Money made of cheese -_China_ - -In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is -a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, -writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, -1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some -thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the -field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as -'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other -commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading -medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was -sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for -other articles of service." - -Monk's Head _see_ Tête de Moine. - -Monostorer -_Transylvania, Rumania_ - -Ewe's milk. - -Monsieur -_France_ - -Soft; salted; rich in flavor. - -Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - -Montana -_Catalonia_ - -A mountain cheese. - -Montasio -_Austria and Italy_ - -Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is -often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both -fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and -sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve -months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely -imitated in America. - -Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de -_Brittany, France_ - -A celebrated cheese of Brittany. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the -_Achittea_ family. - -Mont Blanc -_France_ - -An Alpine cheese. - -Mont Cenis -_Southeastern France_ -Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is -semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and -Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and -sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy -bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing -twenty-five pounds. - -Mont-des-Cats -_French Flanders_ - -Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. - -Montdidier -_France_ - -A fresh cream. - -Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone -Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to -Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than -either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best -is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. -Didier. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. - -Monterey -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in -California and along the Mexican border. - -Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. - -Monthéry -_Seine-et-Oise, France_ - -Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, -weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color -in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. - -Montpellier -_France_ - -Sheep. - -Moravian -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Semihard and sharp. - -Morbier -_Bresse, France_ - -In season from November to July. - -Mostoffait -_France_ - -A little-known product of Champagne. - -Mother's milk - -In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des -Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts -the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was -so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." -All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it -was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, -"Then all of us are cannibals." - -Mountain -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; yellow; sharp. - -Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. - -Mount Hope -_U.S.A._ - -Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. - -Mouse or Mouse Trap -_U.S.A._ - -Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade -store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, -however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. - -Mozzarella -_Italy_ - -Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white -cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a -half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at -Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like -Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is -imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. - -Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of -about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. - -Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true -Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. - -Mozzarinelli -_Italy_ - -A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. - -Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. - -Münster -_Germany_ - -German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to -Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; -whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to -strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. -Best in winter season, from November to April. - -Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and -French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer -season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise -seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is -served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. - -In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au -Cumin because of the caraway. - -American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They -are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. - -Mustard -_U.S.A._ - -A processed domestic, Gruyère type. - -Myjithra - -Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. - -Mysost, Mytost -_Scandinavia_ - -Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey -cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, -instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. -Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are -cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. - - -N - -Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland -_Austria_ - -Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, -in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. - -Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate -_Brittany, France_ - -A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. - -Nessel -_England_ - -Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. - -Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and Chapter -9. - -New Forest -_England_ - -Cream cheese from the New Forest district. - -Nieheimer -_Westphalia, Germany_ - -Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. -Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both -beer and hops in one cheese is unique. - -Niolo -_Corsica_ - -In season from October to May. - -Noekkelost or Nögelost -_Norway_ - -Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a -Gouda. - -Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" -_U.S.A._ - -Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, -perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. - -Nordost -_Sweden_ - -Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. - -North Wilts -_Wiltshire, England_ - -Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small -size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. - -Nostrale -_Northwest Italy_ - -An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: - I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring - when the cows are in the valley. -II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk - from lush mountain-grazing. - -Notruschki (cheese bread) -_Russia_ - -Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. - -Nova Scotia Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia -manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to -give the luxurious flavor. - -Nuworld -_U.S.A._ - -This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a -brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, -heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and -flavor. - -A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new -species or not. - - -O - -Oaxaca -_see_ Asadero. - -Oka, or La Trappe -_Canada_ - -Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada -after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ -Trappe. - -Old English Club -_U.S.A._ - -Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. - -Old Heidelberg -_U.S.A._ - -Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. - -Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile -_France_ - -A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron. - -Olive Cream -_U.S.A._ - -Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos -for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American -taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma -olives and Feta sheep cheese. - -Olivet -_Orléans, France_ - -Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: - I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. - II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. -III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. - -Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 -of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen -into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A -dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop -into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. - -Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour -_Béarn, France_ - -In season from October to May. - -Onion with garlic links -_U.S.A_ - -Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. - -Oporto -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. - -Orkney -_Scotland_ - -A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat -bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch -country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell -have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. - -Orléans -_France_ - -Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy. - -Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach -_Caucasus_ - -Comes in two forms: - I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. -II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of - sheep milk is the better. - -Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this -type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. - -Oswego -_U.S.A._ - -New York State Cheddar of distinction. - -Oude Kaas -_Belgium_ - -Popular in France as Boule de Lille. - -Oust, Fromage de -_Roussillon, France_ - -Of the Camembert family. - -Ovár -_Hungarian_ - -Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild -but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. - -Oveji Sir -_Yugoslavian Alpine_ - -Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. -Weight six to ten pounds. - -Oxfordshire -_England_ - -An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan -Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: - "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, - pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' - - "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' - - "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the - coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your - lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" - - -P - -Pabstett -_U.S.A_ - -The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although -beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has -long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste -to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular -beer. - -Packet cheese -_England_ - -This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package -or packet it comes in. - -Paglia -_Switzerland_ - -Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A -Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because -in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a -foreign type. - -Pago -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in -weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. - -Paladru -_Savoy, France_ - -In season from November to May. - -Palpuszta -_Hungary_ - -Fairly strong Limburger type. - -Pannarone -_Italy_ - -Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. - -Parenica -_Hungary_ - -Sheep. Caciocavallo type. - -Parmesan, Parmigiano -_Italy_ - -The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the -world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with -the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta -al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in -a mortar with a pestle. - -Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau -_German_ - -Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau. - -Pasta Cotta -_Italy_ - -The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. - -Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which -Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) - -Pasteurized Process Cheese Food -_U.S.A._ - -This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had -Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world -of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. - -Pastorella -_Italy_ - -Soft, rich table cheese. - -Patagras -_Cuba_ - -Similar to Gouda. - -Pecorino -_Italy_ - -Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. - -Pelardon de Rioms -_Languedoc, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to November. - -Peneteleu -_Rumania_ - -One of the international Caciocavallo family. - -Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album - -Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd -destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that -impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second -spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. - -Pennich -_Turkey_ - -Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. - -Pennsylvania Hand Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever -since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or -cooked. - -Penroque -_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ - -Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ -and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal -condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of -Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of -mother cow than mother nature. - -Pepato -_Italy_ - -Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine -for fire-eaters. - -An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. - -Persillé de Savoie -_Savoie, France_ - -In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner -similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. - -Petafina, La -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, -plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. - -Petit Carré -_France_ - -Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial. - -Petit Gruyère -_Denmark_ - -Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost -unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also -packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen -cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of -several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at -home. - -Petit Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -A pet name for Coulommiers. - -Petit Suisse -_France_ - -Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to -Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: - Gros--a largest cylinder - Demi--a small one - -Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised -its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, -Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is -ideal with honey. - -Petit Vacher -_France_ - -"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. - -Petits Bourgognes -_Lower Burgundy, France_ - -Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning -with B are Banons and Bressans. - -Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les -_France_ - -Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. - -Petits Fromages de Chèvre -_France_ - -Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of -Provence. - -Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers -_Poitou, France_ - -Clotted milk in small pots. - -Pfister -_Cham, Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh -skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to -manufacture it, in Chain. - -Philadelphia Cream -_U.S.A._ - -An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. -Made in New York State in spite of its name. - -Picnic -_U.S.A._ - -Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long -been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. - -Picodon de Dieule Fit -_Dauphiné, France_ - -In season from May to December. - -Pie, Fromage à la -_France_ - -Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese -type. - -Pie Cheese -_U.S.A_ - -An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in -wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And -by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to -find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being -wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind -on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make -processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying -word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged -nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" -out of a processed "Cheddar." - -Pimiento -_U.S.A._ - -Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland -national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or -cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old -Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that -equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. - -Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. - -Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. - -Piora -_Tessin, Switzerland_ - -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. - -Pippen -_U.S.A._ - -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll - -Pithiviers au Foin -_France_ - -Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May. - -Poitiers -_France_ - -Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. - -Pommel -_France_ - -All year. Double cream; unsalted. - -Ponta Delgada -_Azores_ - -Semifirm; delicate; piquant - -Pontgibaud -_France_ - -Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. - -Pont l'Evêque - -Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like -Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The -Inquisitive Cow." - -Poona -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in -two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature -before serving. - -Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. - -Port, Blue Links -_U.S.A._ - -"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. - -Pot cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite -for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and -macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the -sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. -Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. - -Potato -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes -added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the -potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die -curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two -of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. -The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a -fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered -with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen -for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is -probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a -period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it -appears to be the same." -From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. - -Potato Pepper -_Italy_ - -Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, -only not so stony hard. - -Pots de Crème St. Gervais -_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ - -The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both -as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. - -Pouligny-St. Pierre -_Touraine, France_ - -A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to -December. - -Poustagnax, le -_France_ - -A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. - -Prato -_Brazil_ - -Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland -Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named -not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from -whence it was borrowed long ago. - -Prattigau -_Switzerland_ - -Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home -valley. - -Prestost or Saaland Flarr -_Sweden_ - -Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, -packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed -daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. - -Primavera, Spring -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like -fragrance. - -Primost -_Norway_ - -Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. - -Primula -_Norway_ - -A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in -Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with -caraway added. - -Processed -_U.S.A._ - -From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by -emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic -mass. - -Promessi -_Italy_ - -Small soft-cream cheese. - -Provatura -_Italy_ - -A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for -a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. - -Providence -_France_ - -Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. - -Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and -Provolino -_Italy_ - -All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and -appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the -U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. - -Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in -the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, -Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to -four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with -huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all -sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that -are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. - -P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit -_Lorraine, France_ - -Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. - -Puant Macere -_Flanders_ - -"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November -to June. - -Pultost or Knaost -_Norway_ - -Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. - -Pusztador -_Hungary_ - -Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. - -Pyrenees, Fromage des -_France_ - -A fine mountain variety. - - -Q - -Quartiolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September -and November. - -Quacheq -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. - -Quargel _see_ Olmützer. - -Quartirolo -_Italy_ - -Soft, cow's milk. - -Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal -_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, -Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. - -Queso Anejo -_Mexico_ - -White, dry, skim milk. - -Queso de Bola -_Mexico_ - -Whole milk, similar to Edam. - -Queso de Cavallo -_Venezuela_ - -Pear-shaped cheese. - -Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. - -Queso de Cincho -_Venezuela_ - -Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. - -Queso de Crema -_Costa Rica_ - -Similar to soft Brick. - -Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese -_Puerto Rico_ - -Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. - -Queso de Mano -_Venezuela_ - -Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. - -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra -_Puerto Rico_ - -White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, - -Queso de Prensa -_Puerto Rico_ - -The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after -ripening two or three months. - -Queso de Puna -_Puerto Rico_ - -Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. - -Queso de Tapara -_Venezuela_ - -Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and -tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the -time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno -Provecho._ - -Queso Fresco -_El Salvador_ - -Cottage-cheese type. - -Queville _see_ Chapter 3. - -Queyras _see_ Champoléon. - - -R - -Rabaçal -_Coimbra, Portugal_ - -Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in -diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. - -Rabbit Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. - -Radener -_Germany_ - -Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by -four inches, weight 32 pounds. - -Radolfzeller Cream -_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ - -Similar to Münster. - -Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. - -Rahmkäse, Allgäuer -_German_ - -Cream. - -Rainbow -_Mexico_ - -Mild; mellow. - -Ramadoux -_Belgium_ - -Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé - -Rammil or Rammel -_England_ - -André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also -called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically -unobtainable today. - -Rangiport -_France_ - -A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. - -Rarush Durmar -_Turkey_ - -Brittle; mellow; nutty. - -Rächerkäse - -The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very -popular. - -Raviggiolo -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. - -Rayon or Raper -_Switzerland_ - -A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is -hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. - -Reblochon or Roblochon -_Savoy_ - -Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to -two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. - -Récollet de Gérardmer -_Vosges, France_ - -A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April - -Red -_Russia_ - -_see_ Livlander. - -Red Balls -_Dutch_ - -_see_ Edam. - -Reggiano _see_ Grana. - -Regianito -_Argentine_ - -Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere -imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. - -Reichkäse -_German_ - -Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. - -Reindeer -_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ - -In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk -It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is -curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. - -Relish cream cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. - -Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant -_Belgium_ - -The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it -is. The season is winter, from November to June. - -Requeijão -_Portugal and Brazil_ - -Recooked. - -Resurrection _see_ Welsh. - -Rhubarbe -_France_ - -A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our -pie plant. - -Riceys _see_ Champenois. - -Ricotta Romano -_Italy_ - -Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, -piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, -sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. - -Ricotta -_Italy and U.S.A._ - -Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, -blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and -rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, -some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor -substitute whey cheese. - -Ricotta Salata - -Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and -too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. - -Riesengebirge -_Bohemia_ - -Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's -northern mountains. - -Rinnen -_Germany_ - -This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named -from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. - -Riola -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to -ripen, two to three months. - -Robbiole -Robbiola -Robbiolini -_ Lombardy_ -_ Italian_ - -Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine -quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to -two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at -just under four ounces. - -Roblochon, le - -Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried -sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. - -Rocamadur -_Limousin, France_ - -Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. - -Rocroi -_France_ - -From the Champagne district. - -Rokadur -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Roquefort. - -Roll -_England_ - -Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. - -Rollot or Rigolot -_Picardy and Montdidier, France_ - -Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but -much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only -cheese. - -Roma -_Italy_ - -Soft cream. - -Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings -_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ - -A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is -not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is -scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. - -Romano, Romano Vacchino -_Italy_ - -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. - -Romanello -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating -cheese, cured one year. - -Roquefort -_France_ - -King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_ -Chapter 3. - -Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled -_U.S.A._ - -Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead -of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, -mustard, flour and spice oil. - -Roquefort de Corse -_Corsica, France_ - -This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep -milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. - -Roquefort de Tournemire -_France_ - -Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal -Roquefort name. - -Rougerets, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically -every variety is made with goat milk. - -Rouennais -_France_ - -This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten -from October to May. - -Round Dutch -_Holland_ - -An early name for Edam. - -Rouy, le -_Normandy, France_ - -From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. - -Royal Brabant -_Belgium_ - -Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. - -Royal Sentry -_Denmark_ - -Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't -yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American -one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its -ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe -(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese -whey solids and disodium phosphate. - -Ruffec, Fromage de -_Saintonge, France_ - -Fresh; goat. - -Runesten -_Denmark and U.S.A._ - -Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three -pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. - -Rush Cream Cheese -_England and France_ - -Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but -from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and -sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are -collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, -covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer -and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then -increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily -until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the -fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape -baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup -new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one -teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty -drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place -until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the -straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The -mats or baskets should not be used a second time. - - -S - -Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost -_Sweden_ - -Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with -whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with -whiskey. - -Saanen -_Switzerland_ - -Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest -cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as -Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth -century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. -It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and -then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds -and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for -ripening is six years, but some take nine. - -Sage, or Green cheese -_England_ - -This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the -U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the -method described in Chapter 4. - -Saint-Affrique -_Guyenne, France_ - -This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives -up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local -renown. - -We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the -host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped -abroad. - -Saint-Agathon -_Brittany, France_ - -Season, October to July. - -Saint-Amand-Montrond -_Berry, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Benoit -_Loiret, France_ - -Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt -rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to -fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about -six inches in diameter. - -Saint-Claude -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half -pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is -then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. - -Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Florentin -_Burgundy, France_ - -A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. - -Saint-Flour -_Auvergne, France_ - -Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. - -Saint-Gelay -_Poitou, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais -_see_ Pots de Crème. - -Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. - -Saint-Honoré -_Nivernais, France_ - -A small goat cheese. - -Saint-Hubert -_France_ - -Similar to Brie. - -Saint-Ivel -_England_ - -Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. -Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with -_Bacillus Bulgaricus._ - -Saint-Laurent -_Roussillon, France_ - -Mountain sheep cheese. - -Saint-Lizier -_Béarn, France_ - -A white, curd cheese. - -Saint-Loup, Fromage de -_Poitou and Vendée, France_ - -Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September - -Saint-Marcellin -_Dauphiné, France_ - -One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, -weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. -Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially -a goat cheese. - -Saint-Moritz -_Switzerland_ - -Soft and tangy. - -Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre -_Auvergne, France_ - -Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. - -Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. - -Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. - -Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. - -Saint-Rémy, Fromage de -_Haute-Saône, France_ - -Soft Pont l'Evêque type. - -Saint-Stefano -_German_ - -Bel Paese type. - -Saint-Winx -_Flanders, France_ - -The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian -border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. - -Sainte-Anne d'Auray -_Brittany, France_ - -A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. - -Sainte-Marie -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. - -Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine -_France_ - -Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay. - -Salamana -_Southern Europe_ - -Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. -It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix -with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. - -Salame -_France_ - -Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. -Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in -Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has -became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout -America. - -Salers, Bleu de -_France_ - -One of the very good French Blues. - -Saligny -_Champagne, France_ - -White cheese made from sheep's milk. - -Saloio -_Lisbon, Portugal_ - -An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 -to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near -the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. - -Salonite -_Italy_ - -Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. - -Saltee -_Ireland_ - -Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as -Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its -name implies. - -Salt-free cheese, for diets - -U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse. - -Samsö -_Denmark_ - -Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet -cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. - -Sandwich Nut - -An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel. - -Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. - -Sardegna -_Sardinia_ - -A Romano type made in Sardinia. - -Sardinian -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. - -Sardo -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. -There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. - -Sarraz or Sarrazin -_Vaud, Switzerland_ - -Roquefort type. - -Sassenage -_Dauphiny, France_ - -Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of -Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the -three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented -variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. - -Satz -_Germany_ - -Hard cheese made in Saxony. - -Savoy, Savoie -_France_ - -Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. - -Sbrinz -_Argentine_ - -Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. - -Scanno -_Abruzzi, Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened -rind, deep yellow interior. - -Scarmorze or Scamorze -_Italy_ - -Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being -made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang -from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine -when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. -Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in -Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. - -Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese) -_Germany_ - -Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. - -Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ - -Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six -pounds. - -Schlickermilch - -This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, -sour milk "waddle" cheese. - -Schlesische Sauermilchkäse -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered -shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in -summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three -to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. - -Schlesischer Weichquarg -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short -time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded -and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply -flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand -cheese odor develops. - -Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck -_German_ - -This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of -his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic -Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. - -Schmierkäse - -German cottage cheese that becomes -smearcase in America. - -Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. - -Schönland -_German_ - -Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." - -Schützenkäse -_Austria_ - -Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces -and wrapped in tin foil. - -Shottengsied -_Alpine_ - -A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. - -Schwarzenberger -_Hungary and Bohemia_ - -One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to -ripen. - -Schweizerkäse -_Switzerland_ - -German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) - -Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese -_Denmark_ - -A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing -wonderful. - -Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. - -Selles-sur Cher -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. - -Sénecterre -_Puy-de-Dôme, France_ - -Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. - -Septmoncel -_France_ - -Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and -sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to -Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk -triplets with Gex and Sassenage. - -Serbian -_Serbia_ - -Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk -over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an -hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth -and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it -is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally -with fresh milk for six. - -Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is -semisoft. - -Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. - -Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) -_Portugal_ - -The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other -milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated -by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is -ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds -averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside -is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. - -Sharp-flavored cheese - -U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, -Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de -Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. - -Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. - -Silesian -_Poland and Germany_ - -White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) - -Sir cheeses - -In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. -Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or -holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and -Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. - -Sir Iz Mjesine -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open -fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the -curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. -Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is -dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, -packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. - -Sir Mastny -_Montenegro_ - -Fresh sheep milk. - -Sir Posny -_Montenegro_ - -Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to -the names of Tord and Mrsav. - -Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. - -Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. - -Siraz -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. - -Skyr -_Iceland_ - -The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire -cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well -liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the -subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not -advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before -riding, as it gives you diarrhea." - -Slipcote, or Colwick -_England_ - -Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in -forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is -placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it -is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily -slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it -was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as -today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. - -Smältost -_Sweden_ - -Soft and melting. - -Smearcase - -Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for -cottage cheese. - -Smoked Block -_Austria_ - -A well-smoked cheese in block form. - -Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. - -Smoked Szekely -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. - -Smokelet -_Norway_. - -A small smoked cheese. - -Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. - -Sorbais -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full -flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, -but smaller. - -Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga - -Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. - -Soumaintrain, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Soybean -_China_ - -Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with -a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our -occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese -and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. - -Spalen or Stringer -_Switzerland_ - -A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of -Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the -vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. - -Sperrkäse _see_ Dry. - -Spiced -_International_ - -Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, -to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and -thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes -the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in -English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and -Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; -whole black pepper Pepato, etc. - -Spiced and Spiced Spreads -_U.S.A._ - -Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less -than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. - -Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. -_France_ - -Spitz Spitzkase -_Germany_ - -Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, -Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. - -Sposi -_Italy_ - -Soft; small; cream. - -Spra -_Greek_ - -Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in -one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made -principally from sheep milk. - -Stängenkase -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. - -Stein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after -the old German original. - -Steinbuscher-Käse -_German_ - -Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, -reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at -home but little known abroad. - -Steppe -_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ - -German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it -tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as -in Germany and Austria for home consumption. - -Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. - -Stirred curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed -younger. - -Stracchino -_Italy_ - -Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and -pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A -fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter -3. Also see Certoso Stracchino. - -Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of -this distinguished family. - -Stravecchio -_Italy_ - -Well-aged, according to the name. -Creamy and mellow. - -Stringer _see_ Spalen. - -Styria -_Austria_ - -Whole milk. Cylindrical form. - -Suffolk -_England_ - -An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" -cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has -stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty -hardness. - - "Hunger will break through stone walls and anything - except a Suffolk cheese." - - "Those that made me were uncivil - For they made me harder than the devil. - Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; - Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me." - -Surati, Panir -_India_ - -Buffalo milk. Uncolored. - -Suraz -_Serbia_ - -Semihard and semisoft. - -Sveciaost -_Sweden_ - -A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match -Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full -cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six -weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, -wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as -most _osts_ are. - -Sweet-curd -_U.S.A._ - -Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd -cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, -however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by -the granular process. - -Swiss -_U.S.A._ - -In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, -Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling -their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever -since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their -standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had -competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical -cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler. - -Szekely -_Transylvania, Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is -the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American -processed links, with wine flavors and everything. - - -T - -Taffel, Table, Taffelost -_Denmark_ - -A Danish brand name for an ordinary -slicing cheese. - -Tafi -_Argentina_ - -Made in the rich province of Tucuman. - -Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de -_Périgord, France_ - -Very small and tasty goat cheese. - -Taleggio -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type. - -Tallance -_France_ - -Goat. - -Tamie -_France_ - -Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is -more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced -not far away. - -Tanzenberger -_Carinthia, Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Tao-foo or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are -ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch -dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is -coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the -same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After -being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and -added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is. - -Teleme -_Rumania_ - -Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of -sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days. - -Terzolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter. - -Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head -_France_ - -Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam. - -Tête de Moine, Monk's Head -_France_ - -A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer -Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay. - -Tête de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head. - -"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" -_Scotland_ - -Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme -that exposes it: - - The first love token ye gae me - Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. - O wae be to the tempting cheese, - The tempting cheese of Fyvie, - Gat me forsake my ain gude man - And follow a fottman laddie. - -Texel - -Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of -Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands. - -Thenay -_Vendôme, France_ - -Resembles Camembert and Vendôme. - -Thion -_Switzerland_ - -A fine Emmentaler. - -Three Counties -_Ireland_ - -An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most -of the Irish cheese. - -Thuringia Caraway -_Germany_ - -A hand cheese spiked with caraway. - -Thyme -_Syria_ - -Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other -herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, -Hazebrook II. - -Tibet -_Tibet_ - -The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of -sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to -string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. -They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, -in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.) - -Tignard -_Savoy, France_ - -Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in -Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel. - -Tijuana -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town. - -Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4. - -Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit -_Germany_ - -This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. -Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open -texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is -stronger and coarser. - -Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to -imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a -good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, -and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations. - -The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a -good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial -dallying." - -Tilziski -_Yugoslavia_ - -A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter. - -Tome de Beaumont -_France_ - -Whole cow's milk. - -Tome, la -_Auvergne, France_ - -Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar -that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, -etc. - -Tome de Chèvre -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft goat cheese. - -Tome de Savoie -_France_ - -Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des -Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane. - -Tomelitan Gruyère -_Norway_ - -Imitation of French Gruyère in 2-1/2 ounce packages. - -Topf or Topfkäse -_Germany_ - -A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk -cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it -is flaky. - -Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a -table cheese. - -Toscanello -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -A smaller edition of Toscano. - -Touareg -_Berber, Africa_ - -Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then -dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or -placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and -never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber -tribes. - -Tour Eiffel -_Berry, France_ - -Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque -label and trademark for a brand of Camembert. - -Touloumisio -_Greece_ - -Similar to Feta. - -Tournette -_France_ - -Small goat cheese. - -Tourne de chèvre -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat cheese. - -Trappe, la, or Oka -_Canada_ - -Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian -monastery. - -Trappist _see_ Chapter 3. - -Trappist -_Yugoslavia_ - -Trappist Port-Salut imitation. - -Trauben (Grape) -_Switzerland_ - -Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the -grape. - -Travnik, Travnicki -_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_ - -Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally -skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and -adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and -Vlasic. - -When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It -ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and -is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type -when aged is characteristically oily and sharp. - -Traz os Montes -_Portugal_ - -Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically -named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit -muttony, but none of it at all tallowy. - -Trecce -_Italy_ - -Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh. - -Triple Aurore -_France_ - -Normandy cheese in season all the year around. - -Troo -_France_ - -Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January. - -Trouville -_France_ - -Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality. - -Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy. - -Truckles -_England_ - -No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue -Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. -On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a -handout: - - Pray, dame, something, - An apple or a dumpling, - Or a piece of Truckle cheese - Of your own making. - -No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar -put up in loaves. - -Tschil -_Armenia_ - -Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or -cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is -drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil. - -Tuile de Flandre -_France_ - -A type of Marolles. - -Tullum Penney -_Turkey_ - -Salty from being soaked in brine. - -Tuna, Prickly Pear -_Mexico_ - -Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and -straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike -consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when -hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or -flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or -confection in Mexico for centuries. - -Tuscano -_Italy_ - -Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan. - -Twdr Sir -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. -Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to -Brick or Limburger. - -Twin Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, -Wisconsin. - -Tworog -_Russia_ - -Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese -bread called Notruschki. - -Tybo -_Denmark_ - -Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk. - -Tyrol Sour -_German_ - -A typical Tyrolean hand cheese. - -Tzgone -_Dalmatia_ - -The opposite number of Tzigen, just below. - -Tzigenkäse -_Austria_ - -Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; -originated in Dalmatia. - - -U - -Urda -_Rumania_ - -Creamy; sweet; mild. - -Uri -_Switzerland_ - -Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight -to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds. - -Urseren -_Switzerland_ - -Mild flavored. Cooked curd. - -Urt, Fromage d' - -Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country. - - -V - -Vacherin -_France and Switzerland_ - -I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft -interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches -in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is -almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the -hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny -than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on -bread. The local name is Tome de Montague. - -II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called -Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our -conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e." - -Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for -the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss -classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin. - -Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du -_Andorra, France_ - -Sheep milk. - -Valdeblore, le -_Nice, France_ - -Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese. - -Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay -_Touraine, France_ - -Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to -December. This was a favorite with Francis I. - -Valio -_Finland_ - -One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss -cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, -Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real -cheese is. - -Valsic -_Albania_ - -Crumbly and sharp. - -Varalpenland -_Germany_ - -Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and -smell. - -Varennes, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Västerbottenost -_West Bothnia_ - -Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, -almost bitter taste. - -Västgötaost -_West Gothland, Sweden_ - -Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty -to thirty pounds. - -Vendôme, Fromage de -_France_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under -ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris. - -Veneto, Venezza -_Italy_ - -Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp. - -Vic-en-Bigorre -_France_ - -Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May. - -Victoria -_England_ - -The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford. - -Ville Saint-Jacques -_France_ - -Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May. - -Villiers -_France_ - -Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne. - -Viry-vory, or Vary -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Viterbo -_Italy_ - -Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. -Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino -family. - -Vize -_Greece_ - -Ewe's milk; suitable for grating. - -Void -_Meuse, France_ - -Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. - -Volvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% -fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.) - -Vorarlberg Sour-milk -_Greasy_ - -Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong -flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk. - -Vory, le -_France_ - -Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse. - - -W - -Warshawski Syr -_Poland_ - -Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland. - -Warwickshire -_England_ - -Derbyshire type. - -Washed-curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any -abnormal flavors. - -Wedesslborg -_Denmark_ - -A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully -ripened. - -Weisschmiere -_Bavaria, Germany_ - -Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four -months. - -Weisslacker, White Lacquer -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and -rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of -Germany's finest soft cheeses. - -Welsh cheeses - -The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh -"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at -one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream -cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same -delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John -Keats. - -"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer -available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because -it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen -into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such -wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by -Rhys Davies.) - -Wensleydale -_England_ - - I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to -Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the -Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June -to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, -but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put -on. - -II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through -the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made -(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and -winter. - -Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse -_West Prussia_ - -Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda. - -West Friesian -_Netherlands_ - -Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of -it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet: - - Good bread, good butter and good cheese - Is good English and good Friese. - -Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is -mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the -richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of -about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put -down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the -seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, -like Limburger, before pressing. - -This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so -soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and -Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was -perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago. - -The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the -name Briol. - -Whale Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which -the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the -possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as -petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after -milking the whales. - -White, Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten -fresh, with or without salt. - -White Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. -Green Bay brand is a fine example of it. - -White Gorgonzola - -This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known -outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.) - -White Stilton -_England_ - -This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic -veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag. - -Whitethorn -_Ireland_ - -Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except -that it is colored. - -Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch -_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_ - -Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at -Itzehoe. - -Wiltshire or Wilts -_England_ - -A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North -Wilts.) - -Wisconsin Factory Cheeses -_U.S.A._ - -Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the -age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American -Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but -most of it is sold green when far too young. - -Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss. - -Withania -_India_ - -Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet -from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This -names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, -it becomes acrid with age. - - -Y - -Yoghurt, or Yogurt -_U.S.A._ - -Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the -milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel. - -York, York Curd and Cambridge York -_England_ - -A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are -becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too -rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which -it is cured, for local consumption. - -Yorkshire-Stilton -_Cotherstone, England_ - -This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine -internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general -favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung. - -York State -_U.S.A._ - -Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars. - -Young America -_U.S.A._ - -A mild, young, yellow Cheddar. - -Yo-yo -_U.S.A._ - -Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on -strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped -like a yo-yo. - - -Z - -Ziegel -_Austria_ - -Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months. - -Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. -Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse. - -Ziger - - I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food -made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, -Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are -flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey -bread. - -II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of -whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes. - -Zips _see_ Brinza. - -Zomma -_Turkey_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. - -Zwirn _see_ Tschil. - - - - -[Illustration] - -Index of Recipes - -American Cheese Salad, 128 -Angelic Camembert, 120 -Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 -Apple Pie à la Cheese, 119 -Apple Pie Adorned, 119 -Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 -Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 -au Gratin - Eggs, 125 - Potatoes, 125 - Tomatoes, 125 - -Blintzes, 111 -Brie or Camembert Salad, 128 - -Camembert, Angelic, 120 -Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 -Cheddar Omelet, 135 -Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 -Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 -Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 -Cheese Charlotte, 133 -Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 -Cheese Custard, 118 -Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 -Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 -Cheese Waffles, 112 -Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 -Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 -Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 -Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 -Cold Dunking, 133 -Custard, Cheese, 118 - -Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 -Diablotins, 135 -Dumpling, Napkin, 112 -Dunking, Cold, 133 - -Eggs au Gratin, 125 - -Flan au Fromage, 119 -Fondue - à l'Italienne, 84 - All-American, 85 - au Fromage, 90 - Baked Tomato, 89 - Brick, 92 - Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 - Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 - Cheese, 92 - Cheese, and Corn, 92 - Cheese and Rice, 91 - Chives, 88 - Comtois, 88 - Corn and Cheese, 92 - Neufchâtel Style, 82 - 100% American, 90 - Parmesan, 86 - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 - Rice, and Cheese, 91 - Sapsago Swiss, 86 - Tomato, 89 - Tomato Baked, 89 - Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 -Fritters, Italian, 109 -Fritto Misto, Italian, 137 - -Garlic on Cheese, 110 -Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 -Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - -Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 -Italian Fritters, 109 -Italian Fritto Misto, 137 -Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108 - -Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108 - -Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 -Miniature Pizzas, 107 - -Napkin Dumpling, 112 -Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108 - -Omelet - Cheddar, 135 - Meal-in-One, 135 - Parmesan, 135 - Tomato, 136 - with Cheese Sauce, 136 -Onion Soup, 126 -Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 -Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118 - -Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 -Parmesan Omelet, 135 -Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 -Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, 134 -Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 -Piroghs, Polish, 137 -Pizza, 106 - Cheese, 107 - Dough, 106 - Miniature, 107 - Tomato Paste, 107 -Polish Piroghs, 137 -Potatoes au Gratin, 125 -Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 -Puffs - Breakfast, 100 - Cheese, New England, 100 - Cream Cheese, 100 - Danish Fondue, 100 - Fried, 99 - New England Cheese, 100 - Parmesan, 99 - Roquefort, 99 - Three-in-One, 98 - -Rabbit - After-Dinner, 55 - All-American Succotash, 77 - American Woodchuck, 63 - Anchovy, 70 - Asparagus, 68 - Basic - No. 1 (with beer), 49 - No. 2 (with milk), 50 - Blushing Bunny, 63 - Border-hopping Bunny, 60 - "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 - Buttermilk, 76 - Celery and Onion, 67 - Chipped Beef, 66 - Cream Cheese, 75 - Crumby, 70 - Crumby Tomato, 71 - Curry, 76 - Danish, 77 - Devil's Own, The, 65 - Dr. Maginn's, 54 - Dried Beef, 66 - Dutch, 72 - Easy English, 78 - Eggnog, 77 - Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 - Fluffy, Eggy, 64 - Frijole, 60 - Gherkin, 71 - Ginger Ale, 76 - Golden Buck, 59 - Golden Buck II, 59 - Grilled Sardine, 69 - Grilled Tomato, 65 - Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 - Gruyère, 73 - Kansas Jack, 66 - Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 - Latin-American Corn, 67 - Mexican Chilaly, 64 - Mushroom-Tomato, 67 - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Original Recipe, Ye, 57 - Oven, 58 - Oyster, 68 - Pink Poodle, 74 - Pumpernickel, 72 - Reducing, 75 - Roe, 69 - Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 - Running, 63 - Sardine, Grilled, 69 - Sardine, Plain, 69 - Savory Eggy Dry, 75 - Scotch Woodcock, 63 - Sea-food, 68 - Sherry, 73 - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Smoked Cheddar, 70 - Smoked fish, 70 - South African Tomato, 61 - Spanish Sherry, 74 - Stieff Recipe, The, 51 - Swiss Cheese, 73 - Tomato, 61 - Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 - Tomato, Crumby, 71 - Tomato, Grilled, 65 - Tomato Soup, 62 - Tomato, South American, 61 - Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 - Yale College, 59 - Yorkshire, 58 -Ramekins - à la Parisienne, 103 - Casserole, 105 - Cheese I, 101 - Cheese II, 102 - Cheese III, 102 - Cheese IV, 103 - Frying Pan, 105 - Morézien, 104 - Puff Paste, 105 - Roquefort-Swiss, 104 - Swiss-Roquefort, 104 -Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 -Roquefort, Champagned, 122 -Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 -Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129 - -Salad - American Cheese, 128 - Apple and Cheese, 130 - Brie, 128 - Camembert, 128 - Cheese and Nut, 128 - Cheese and Pea, 130 - Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 - Swiss Cheese, 129 - Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Sandwiches - Alpine Club, 141 - Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 - Cheeseburgers, 141 - Deviled Rye, 142 - Egg, Open-faced, 142 - French-fried Swiss, 142 - Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 - He-man, Open-faced, 143 - International, 143 - Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises, 143 - Kümmelkäse, 143 - Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 - Meringue, Open-faced, 144 - Neufchâtel and Honey, 144 - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 - Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 - Pickled Camembert, 145 - Queijo da Serra, 145 - Roquefort Nut, 145 - Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 - Tangy, 146 - Toasted Cheese, 148 - Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 - Vegetarian, 146 - Witch's, 147 - Xochomilco, 147 - Yolk Picnic, 147 -Sauce - Cheese, 131 - Mornay, 131 - Parsleyed Cheese, 131 -Sauce Mornay, 131 -Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 -Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 -Soufflé - Basic, 95 - Cheese-Corn, 96 - Cheese Fritter, 98 - Cheese-Mushroom, 97 - Cheese-Potato, 97 - Cheese-Sea-food, 97 - Cheese-Spinach, 96 - Cheese-Tomato, 96 - Corn-Cheese, 96 - Mushroom-Cheese, 97 - Parmesan, 95 - Parmesan-Swiss, 96 - Potato-Cheese, 97 - Sea-food-Cheese, 97 - Spinach-Cheese, 96 - Swiss, 96 - Tomato-Cheese, 96 -Soup - Chicken Cheese, 127 - Onion, 126 - Onion, au Gratin, 126 - Supa Shetgia, 133 -Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 -Straws, 133 -Stuffed Celery, 132 -Supa Shetgia, 133 -Swiss Cheese Salad, 129 - -Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Tomato Omelet, 136 -Tomatoes au Gratin, 125 - -Vatroushki, 111 - -Waffles, Cheese, 112 - - - - -ABOUT THE AUTHOR - - * * * * * - -Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and -enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New -York and summed them all up in this book. - -Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and -entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number -of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching -their students how to hole an Emmentaler. - -After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob -celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be -Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, -Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose -on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five -years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's -dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, -Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_. - -For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de -Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 -to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials -under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, -_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first -five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties. - -In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent -in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled -down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the -Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his -_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, -while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, -that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ -and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude -Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._ - -The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he -returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There -he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of -thirty books bearing his name. - -After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their -mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where -he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his -free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a -score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book -business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other -out-of-the-way items. - -[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, -removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references -to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.] - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293-8.txt or 14293-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -</pre> - - <h2><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" - id="Page_1"></a> <!-- Contents moved to page 3 --> - <!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" - id="Page_2"></a> BOB BROWN</h2> - - <h1>The Complete Book<br /> - of Cheese</h1> - - <p><i>Illustrations by</i> Eric Blegvad</p> - - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/002.gif" - width="450" - height="314" - alt="Illustration: cheese store" /> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Gramercy Publishing Company</i><br /> - <br /> - <i>New York</i><br /> - 1955 - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" - id="Page_3"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><i>Author of</i><br /> - <br /> - THE WINE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - AMERICA COOKS<br /> - <br /> - 10,000 SNACKS<br /> - <br /> - SALADS AND HERBS<br /> - <br /> - THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES<br /> - <br /> - THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK!<br /> - <br /> - THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ<br /> - <br /> - MOST FOR YOUR MONEY<br /> - <br /> - OUTDOOR COOKING<br /> - <br /> - FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK</p> - - <p><i>Co-author of Food and Drink Books by</i> The Browns</p> - - <p>LET THERE BE BEER!<br /> - <br /> - HOMEMADE HILARITY</p> - - <p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" - id="Page_4"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/004.gif" - width="225" - height="104" - alt="Illustration:TO" /> - </div> - - <h3>PHIL</h3> - - <h3>ALPERT</h3> - - <h3><i>Turophile Extraordinary</i></h3> - - <p><!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" - id="Page_5"></a> </p><!-- Blank page --> - - <p><!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" - id="Page_6"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/006.gif" - width="250" - height="282" - alt="Contents" /> - </div> - - <div class="toc"> - <p><b> 1. <a href="#Page_7">I Remember - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 2. <a href="#Page_11">The Big - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 3. <a href="#Page_17">Foreign - Greats</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 4. <a href="#Page_37">Native - Americans</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 5. <a href="#Page_50">Sixty-five Sizzling - Rabbits</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 6. <a href="#Page_84">The Fondue</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 7. <a href="#Page_99">Soufflés, Puffs - and Ramekins</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 8. <a href="#Page_111">Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes - and Cheese Cake</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 9. <a href="#Page_129">Au Gratin, Soups, Salads - and Sauces</a></b></p> - - <p><b>10. <a href="#Page_144">Appetizers, Crackers, - Sandwiches, Savories, Snacks, Spreads and - Toasts</a></b></p> - - <p><b>11. <a href="#Page_154">"Fit for Drink"</a></b></p> - - <p><b>12. <a href="#Page_158">Lazy Lou</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_166">APPENDIX—The A-B-Z of - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#AtoZ_A">A</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_B">B</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_C">C</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_D">D</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_E">E</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_F">F</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_G">G</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_H">H</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_I">I</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_J">J</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_K">K</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_L">L</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_M">M</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_N">N</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_O">O</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_P">P</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Q">Q</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_R">R</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_S">S</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_T">T</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_U">U</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_V">V</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_W">W</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Y">Y</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Z">Z</a> </b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_316">INDEX OF RECIPES</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_320">ABOUT THE AUTHOR</a></b></p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" - id="Page_7"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" - id="Page_8"></a> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/008.gif" - width="450" - height="326" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - One</i> - </div> - - <h2>I Remember Cheese</h2> - - <p>Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the - cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the - millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with - a hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of - judging a crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness - for centuries. The abracadabra is comparable to that of the - wine-taster or tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear - of music-masters and, merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down - to an air pocket left by a gas bubble just how mature the - interior is.</p> - - <p>The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and - I, too, that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread - handy and made my way from one fine cheese to another, trying - out generous plugs from the heaped cannon balls that looked - like the ammunition dump at Antietam.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" - id="Page_9"></a> I remember another market day, this time in - Lucerne. All morning I stocked up on good Schweizerkäse - and better Gruyère. For lunch I had cheese salad. All - around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound - Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little - café, absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal - quantities. I learned that a prize cheese must be chock-full - of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes produced during - fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar glass. The - cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its - flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement - each other as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There - are, I learned, "blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the - million-eyed ones are better.</p> - - <p>But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for - cheese memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over - the cheeses of all nations, first importing them, then - imitating them, from Swiss Engadine to what we call Genuine - Sprinz. We've naturalized Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns - and baptized our own Saaland Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty - popular Italian types we duplicate more than half, some fairly - well, others badly.</p> - - <p>We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the - Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in - Litchfield County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy - Neufchâtel, New York Coon, Vermont Sage, the delicious - Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and dozens of others, - not all quite so original.</p> - - <p>And, true to the American way, we've organized - cheese-eating. There's an annual cheese week, and a cheese - month (October). We even boast a mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month - Club. We haven't yet reached the point of sophistication, - however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets regularly. - To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred - basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded.</p> - - <p>This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my - amateur way I have during the past year or two been sharpening - my <!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" - id="Page_10"></a>cheese perception with whatever varieties I - could encounter around New York. I've run into briny - Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like - Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is - one of the greatest—and least competitively - crowded—of sports. I hope this book may lead others to - give it a try.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <p><!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" - id="Page_11"></a> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/011.gif" - width="450" - height="315" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Two</i> - </div> - - <h2>The Big Cheese</h2> - - <p>One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed - in at four tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years - ago. Another monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in - the New York State Fair at Syracuse in 1937.</p> - - <p>Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way - from New Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of - 1924. But, compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a - Baby Gouda. As a matter of fact, neither England nor any of her - great dairying colonies have gone in for mammoth jobs, except - Canada, with that four-tonner shown at Toronto.</p> - - <p>We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can - find out all about them in <i>Cheddar Gorge,</i> edited by Sir - John Squire. The first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the - largest made, up to the year 1825. It was proudly presented to - H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its heft almost tied the 147-pound - Green <!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" - id="Page_12"></a>County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss presented - by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation - of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss - to 50 percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under - 150, His Royal Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed - high hat and all, was a hundred-weight heavier, and thus - almost dwarfed it.</p> - - <p>It was almost a century later that the second - record-breaking Chester weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it - won a Gold Medal and a Challenge Cup and was presented to the - King, who graciously accepted it. This was more than Queen - Victoria had done with a bridal gift cheese that tipped the - scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's yield from 780 - contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, - measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The - assembled donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they - asked royal permission to exhibit it on a round of country - fairs. The Queen assented to this ambitious request, perhaps - prompted by the exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking - cheesemongers assured Her Majesty that the gift would be - returned to her just as soon as it had been exhibited. But the - Queen didn't want it back after it was show-worn. The donors - began to quarrel among themselves about what to do with the - remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many lost - causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again.</p> - - <p>While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the - better, (much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is - better than a pint), there is a limit to the obesity of a - block, ball or brick of almost any kinds of cheese. When they - pass a certain limit, they lack homogeneity and are not nearly - so good as the smaller ones. Today a good magnum size for an - exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize Provolone, 280 - pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw crowds to any - food-shop window.</p> - - <p>Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese - Hall of Fame and come down to us in song and story. For - example, that four-ton Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, - James McIntyre, who doubled as the local undertaker.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" - id="Page_13"></a> <span>We have thee, mammoth - cheese,<br /></span> <span>Lying quietly at your - ease;<br /></span> <span>Gently fanned by evening - breeze,<br /></span> <span>Thy fair form no flies - dare seize.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>All gaily dressed soon you'll go<br /></span> - <span>To the greatest provincial show,<br /></span> - <span>To be admired by many a beau<br /></span> - <span>In the city of Toronto.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>May you not receive a scar as<br /></span> - <span>We have heard that Mr. Harris<br /></span> - <span>Intends to send you off as far as<br /></span> - <span>The great world's show at Paris.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Of the youth beware of these,<br /></span> - <span>For some of them might rudely - squeeze<br /></span> <span>And bite your cheek; then - song or glees<br /></span> <span>We could not sing, oh, - Queen of Cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was - inspired by "The Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of - Cheshire." This was in the summer of 1801 when the patriotic - people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, turned out en masse to - concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green for presentation - to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique demonstration - occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the - greatest political triumph of a new country in a new - century—the victory of the Democrats over the - Federalists. Its collective making was heralded in Boston's - <i>Mercury and New England Palladium</i>, September 8, - 1801:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>The Mammoth Cheese</i></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD</span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>From meadows rich, with clover red,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A thousand heifers come;<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" - id="Page_14"></a> The tinkling bells the tidings - spread,<br /></span> <span>The milkmaid muffles up - her head,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And wakes - the village hum.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In shining pans the snowy flood<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Through whitened canvas - pours;<br /></span> <span>The dyeing pots of otter - good<br /></span> <span>And rennet tinged with madder - blood<br /></span> <span class="i2">Are sought among - their stores.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The quivering curd, in panniers - stowed,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Is loaded on the - jade,<br /></span> <span>The stumbling beast supports - the load,<br /></span> <span>While trickling whey - bedews the road<br /></span> <span class="i2">Along the - dusty glade.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">The arid deserts roam,<br /></span> - <span>Through trackless sands undaunted - tread,<br /></span> <span>With skins of water on their - head<br /></span> <span class="i2">To cheer their - masters home,<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>So here full many a sturdy swain<br /></span> - <span class="i2">His precious baggage - bore;<br /></span> <span>Old misers e'en forgot their - gain,<br /></span> <span>And bed-rid cripples, free - from pain,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Now took the - road before.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The widow, with her dripping mite<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon her saddle horn,<br /></span> - <span>Rode up in haste to see the sight<br /></span> - <span>And aid a charity so right,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A pauper so forlorn.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The circling throng an opening drew<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon the verdant-grass<br /></span> - <span>To let the vast procession through<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" - id="Page_15"></a>To spread their rich repast in - view,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And Elder J. L. - pass.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then Elder J. with lifted eyes<br /></span> - <span class="i2">In musing posture stood,<br /></span> - <span>Invoked a blessing from the skies<br /></span> - <span>To save from vermin, mites and - flies,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And keep the - bounty good.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Now mellow strokes the yielding pile<br /></span> - <span class="i2">From polished steel - receives,<br /></span> <span>And shining nymphs stand - still a while,<br /></span> <span>Or mix the mass with - salt and oil,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With sage - and savory leaves.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then sextonlike, the patriot troop,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">With naked arms and - crown,<br /></span> <span>Embraced, with hardy hands, - the scoop,<br /></span> <span>And filled the vast - expanded hoop,<br /></span> <span class="i2">While - beetles smacked it down.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Next girding screws the ponderous - beam,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With heft immense, - drew down;<br /></span> <span>The gushing whey from - every seam<br /></span> <span>Flowed through the - streets a rapid stream,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">And shad came up to town.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated - today by a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of - Cheshire, located between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route - 8.</p> - - <p>Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of - Cheshire rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a - token of fidelity from the very heart of the people of this - land to the great cause of equal rights to all men."</p> - - <p>This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van - Buren succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar - mammoth <!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" - id="Page_16"></a>cheese in token of the high esteem in which - he was held. A monstrous one, bigger than the Jeffersonian, - was made by New Englanders to show their loyalty to - President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the hall - of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the - fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had - eaten their fill.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" - id="Page_17"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/017.gif" - width="450" - height="268" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Three</i> - </div> - - <h2>Foreign Greats</h2> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ode to Cheese</i><br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"></div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>God of the country, bless today Thy - cheese,<br /></span> <span>For which we give Thee - thanks on bended knees.<br /></span> <span>Let them be - fat or light, with onions blent,<br /></span> - <span>Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether - scent<br /></span> <span>Of sheep or fields is in them, - in the yard<br /></span> <span>Let them, good Lord, at - dawn be beaten hard.<br /></span> <span>And let their - edges take on silvery shades<br /></span> <span>Under - the moist red hands of dairymaids;<br /></span> - <span>And, round and greenish, let them go to - town<br /></span> <span>Weighing the shepherd's folding - mantle down;<br /></span> <span>Whether from Parma or - from Jura heights,<br /></span> <span>Kneaded by august - hands of Carmelites,<br /></span> <span>Stamped with - the mitre of a proud abbess.<br /></span> - <span>Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of - Bresse,<br /></span> <span>From hollow Holland, from - the Vosges, from Brie,<br /></span> <span>From - Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!<br /></span> <span> - <!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" - id="Page_18"></a> Bless them, good Lord! Bless - Stilton's royal fare,<br /></span> <span>Red - Cheshire, and the tearful cream - Gruyère.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S - TRANSLATION<br /></span> <span class="auth">OF A POEM - BY M. Thomas Braun<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Symphonie des Fromages</i></p> - - <p>A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with - an ax, stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss - Gruyère resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot - There were Dutch Edams, round and blood-red, and - Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on parade. Three Bries, - side by side, suggested phases of the moon; two of them, - very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the third, in - its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And - all the while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely - contempt upon the other, through the glass of their crystal - covers.</p> - - <p class="author">Emile Zola</p> - </div> - - <p>In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture - published Handbook No. 54, entitled <i>Cheese Varieties and - Descriptions,</i> with this comment: "There probably are only - about eighteen distinct types or kinds of natural cheese." All - the rest (more than 400 names) are of local origin, usually - named after towns or communities. A list of the best-known - names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups is - given:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese varieties" - cellpadding="6"> - <tr> - <td align="left">Brick</td> - - <td align="left">Gouda</td> - - <td align="left">Romano</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Camembert</td> - - <td align="left">Hand</td> - - <td align="left">Roquefort</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cheddar</td> - - <td align="left">Limburger</td> - - <td align="left">Sapsago</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cottage</td> - - <td align="left">Neufchâtel</td> - - <td align="left">Swiss</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cream</td> - - <td align="left">Parmesan</td> - - <td align="left">Trappist</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Edam</td> - - <td align="left">Provolone</td> - - <td align="left">Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta)</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" - id="Page_19"></a> May we nominate another dozen to form our - own Cheese Hall of Fame? We begin our list with a partial - roll call of the big Blues family and end it with members of - the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that includes - Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>The Blues that Are Green</b></p> - - <p>Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that - rules a world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as - green as the mythical cheese the moon is made of.</p> - - <p>In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a - handful of lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three - and try to classify them, until you're blue in the face. The - best we can do in this slight summary is to mention a few of - the most notable, aside from our own Blues of Minnesota, - Wisconsin, Oregon and other states that major in cheese.</p> - - <p>Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as - "Flower of Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass - Blue all its own. But France and England are the leaders in - this line, France first with a sort of triple triumvirate - within a triumvirate—Septmoncel, Gex, and Sassenage, all - three made with three milks mixed together: cow, goat and - sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura - mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank - Roquefort.</p> - - <p>This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage - persillé, as well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. - Similar mountain cheeses are made in Auvergne and Aubrac and - have distinct qualities that have brought them fame, such as - Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de Salers, and - St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color scheme, - and sundry others such as Champoléon, Journiac, Queyras - and Sarraz.</p> - - <p>Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside - Stilton and Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early - days, and still <!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" - id="Page_20"></a>is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest - green of them all, and esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese - not liked by everybody, the favorite of Thomas Hardy.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Brie</b></p> - - <p>Sheila Hibben once wrote in <i>The New Yorker:</i></p> - - <p>I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being - the queen of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, - I shall certainly ignore it. The very shape of Brie—so - uncheese-like and so charmingly fragile—is exciting. Nine - times out of ten a Brie will let you down—will be all - caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or at the - over-runny stage, which means it is too old—but when you - come on the tenth Brie, <i>coulant</i> to just the right, - delicate creaminess, and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no - other cheese can compare with it.</p> - - <p>The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to - remember: only months with an "R," beginning with September, - which is the best, bar none.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Caciocavallo</b></p> - - <p>From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as - Caciocavallo translates, is as universally popular as it is at - home and in all the Little Italics throughout the rest of the - world. Flattering imitations are made and named after it, as - follows:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="list of imitations of Caciocavallo cheese" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left">BULGARIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">GREECE:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kashcavallo</b> and <b>Caskcaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">HUNGARY:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Parenica</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">RUMANIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Pentele</b> and <b>Kascaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SERBIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Katschkawalj</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SYRIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Cashkavallo</b> - <!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" - id="Page_21"></a></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">TRANSYLVANIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b> (as in Rumania)</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">TURKEY:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Cascaval Penir</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">YUGOSLAVIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kackavalj</b></td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its - popular name and to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It - is, however, curded from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, - and sometimes from water buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery - that the best of it, which comes from Sorrento, is called - <i>Cacio burro,</i> butter cheese. Slightly salty, with a spicy - tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for - grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian - pastes but on sweets.</p> - - <p>Different from the many grating cheeses made from little - balls of curd called <i>grana</i>, Caciocavallo is a <i>pasta - fileta</i>, or drawn-curd product. Because of this it is - sometimes drawn out in long thick threads and braided. It is a - cheese for skilled artists to make sculptures with, sometimes - horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and other fruits, even - as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and often worked - into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the horse's - head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob - on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a - time, on opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly - golden and rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the - more buttery.</p> - - <p>In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the - best comes from Sorrento, there is keen competition from - Abruzzi, Apulian Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't - spoil when shipped overseas.</p> - - <p>In his <i>Little Book of Cheese</i> Osbert Burdett - recommends the high, horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over - tobacco smoke after dinner:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me - that Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, - some pungency is necessary, and confidence suggests rather - Cacio which would survive anything, the monster said.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" - id="Page_22"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Camembert</b></p> - - <p>Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine - is labeled <i>Syndicat du Vrai Camembert</i>. The name in full - is <i>Syndicat des Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de - Normandie</i> and we agree that this is "a most useful - association for the defense of one of the best cheeses of - France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, - except perhaps by Brie.</p> - - <p>Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the - waitress who first served it to him in the tiny town of - Camembert. And there a statue stands today in the market place - to honor Marie Harel who made the first Camembert.</p> - - <p>Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, - pineapple, pear, French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie - and with oysters, Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" - months, and of these September is the best.</p> - - <p>Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the - <i>véritable</i> don't fall for a domestic imitation or - any West German abomination such as one dressed like a - valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled - "Camembert—Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, - chalky with youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and - decrepit.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Cheddar</b></p> - - <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i> - says:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale - coloured, mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a - hazelnut in flavour. The Cheddar principle pervades the - whole cheesemaking districts of America, Canada and New - Zealand, but no cheese imported into England can equal the - Cheddars of Somerset and the West of Scotland.</p> - </div> - - <p>Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding - first manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse - Cheddar, <!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" - id="Page_23"></a>but in America we have practically none of - this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be ripened at least nine months - to a mellowness, and little of our American cheese gets as - much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote that it - "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, - according to magnitude) with any cheese in England."</p> - - <p>Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second - after Stilton, of course.</p> - - <p>In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of - family feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can - be kept for two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool - room and turned over every other day."</p> - - <p>But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... - I asked one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her - eyes twinkled: 'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'"</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Cheshire</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>A Cheshireman sailed into Spain<br /></span> - <span>To trade for merchandise;<br /></span> <span>When - he arrived from the main<br /></span> <span>A Spaniard - him espies.<br /></span> <span>Who said, "You English - rogue, look here!<br /></span> <span>What fruits and - spices fine<br /></span> <span>Our land produces twice - a year.<br /></span> <span>Thou has not such in - thine."<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Cheshireman ran to his hold<br /></span> - <span>And fetched a Cheshire cheese,<br /></span> - <span>And said, "Look here, you dog, - behold!<br /></span> <span>We have such fruits as - these.<br /></span> <span>Your fruits are ripe but - twice a year,<br /></span> <span>As you yourself do - say,<br /></span> <span>But such as I present you - here<br /></span> <span>Our land brings twice a - day."</span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="center">Anonymous</span> - </div> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" - id="Page_24"></a> - - <p>Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, - and far too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the - inn, of the chophouse, of the average English home, is a - libel on a thing which, when authentic, is worthy of great - honor. Cheshire, divinely commanded into existence as to - three parts to precede and as to one part to accompany - certain Tawny Ports and some Late-Bottled Ports, can be a - thing for which the British Navy ought to fire a salute on - the principle on which Colonel Brisson made his regiment - salute when passing the great Burgundian vineyard.</p> - - <p class="author">T. Earle Welby,<br /> - IN "THE DINNER KNELL"</p> - </div> - - <p>Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, - but the oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar - conquered Britain, and tradition is that the Romans built the - walled city of Chester to control the district where the - precious cheese was made. Chester on the River Dee was a - stronghold against the Roman invasion.</p> - - <p>It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan - times and waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the - Fleet Street Inn where White Cheshire was served "with radishes - or watercress or celery when in season," and Red Cheshire was - served toasted or stewed in a sort of Welsh Rabbit. (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_50">Chapter 5</a>.)</p> - - <p>The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan - Holland, in <i>Cheddar Gorge</i> suggests that "it was no doubt - a cheese of this sort, discovered and filched from the larder - of the Queen of Hearts, that accounted for the contented grin - on the face of the Cheshire Cat in Alice in Wonderland."</p> - - <p>All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Dans le Chester sec et rose</i><br /></span> - <span><i>A longues dents, l'Anglais - mord.</i><br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the Chester dry and pink<br /></span> - <span>The long teeth of the English sink.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" - id="Page_25"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Edam and Gouda</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Edam in Peace and War</i></p> - - <p>There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a - couple of men on board and brought three Holland cheeses, - cost 4d. a piece, excellent cheeses.</p> - - <p class="author">Pepys' <i>Diary</i>, March 2,1663</p> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral - Brown of the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he - used Holland cheese for cannon balls.</p> - - <p class="author"><i>The Harbinger</i> (Vermont), December - 11, 1847</p> - </div> - - <p>The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around - the world. Known as "red balls" in England and - <i>katzenkopf,</i> "cat's head," in Germany, they differ from - Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being round but flattish and - now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas.</p> - - <p>Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad - it is horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already - scalloped for the ultimate consumer to add port, and there are - crocks of Holland cheese potted with sauterne. Both Edam and - Gouda should be well aged to develop full-bodied quality, two - years being the accepted standard for Edam.</p> - - <p>The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed - (black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage - of Friesland and Noord Holland).</p> - - <p>The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and - Leyden, come from South Holland. Some are specially made for - the Jewish trade and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda - are eaten at mealtimes thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch - breakfast without one or the other on black bread with butter - and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're also boon - companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa.</p> - - <p>"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" - id="Page_26"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>When the working woman<br /></span> <span>Takes - her midday lunch,<br /></span> <span>It is a piece of - Gruyère<br /></span> <span>Which for her takes - the place of roast.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkäse, grand - Gruyère from France, or lesser Swiss of the United - States, the shape, size and glisten of the eyes indicate the - stage of ripeness, skill of making and quality of flavor. They - must be uniform, roundish, about the size of a big cherry and, - most important of all, must glisten like the eye of a lass in - love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear.</p> - - <p>Gruyère does not see eye to eye with the big-holed - Swiss Saanen cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny - holes, and many of them; let us say it is freckled with - pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This variety is technically - called a <i>niszler</i>, while one without any holes at all is - "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles.</p> - - <p>Gruyère Trauben (Grape Gruyère) is aged in - Neuchâtel wine in Switzerland, although most - Gruyère has been made in France since its introduction - there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and another - is called Comté from its origin in - Franche-Comté.</p> - - <p>A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to - Italy where it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese - called Raper, and now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, - in fact, because of its piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable - quality, is simulated everywhere, even in Switzerland.</p> - - <p>Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as - Finland, we get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all - sad sorts, with all possible faults—from too many holes, - that make a flabby, wobbly cheese, to too few—cracked, - dried-up, collapsed <!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" - id="Page_27"></a>or utterly ruined by molding inside. So it - will pay you to buy only the kind already marked genuine in - Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six years - to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever.</p> - - <p>Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in - cheese cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in - France), and it is said that the rank of a family is determined - by the age and quality of the cheese in its larder.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Feta and Casere</b></p> - - <p>The Greeks have a name for it—Feta. Their neighbors - call it Greek cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to - honey. The two together make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and - as blinding white as a plate of fresh Ricotta smothered with - sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by shipping the cheese - all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of milk, the milk - being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in brine, - this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat - sharp, but superbly spicy.</p> - - <p>When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk - dripping through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was - at the Staikos Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street - in Manhattan. We then compared Feta with thin wisps of its - grown-up brother, Casere. This gray and greasy, hard and - brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made us bleat for more - Feta.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <p>Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate - (including Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common - consent monarch of all other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. - In England, indeed, many epicures consider Gorgonzola greater - than Stilton, which is the highest praise any cheese can get - there. <!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" - id="Page_28"></a>Like all great cheeses it has been widely - imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when - fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with - rich green veins running through. Very pungent and highly - flavored, it is eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad - dressings, like Roquefort.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b></p> - - <p>The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, - but the cheese is Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in - the imported package: "The overall characteristic is - indescribable and delightful freshness."</p> - - <p>This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was - hailed by Sheila Hibben in <i>The New Yorker</i> of May 6, - 1950, as enthusiastically as Brillat-Savarin would have greeted - a new dish, or the Planetarium a new star:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely - suggest that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a - historic event and that in reporting on it I feel something - of the responsibility that the contemporaries of Madame - Harel, the famous cheese-making lady of Normandy, must have - felt when they were passing judgment on the first - Camembert.</p> - </div> - - <p>Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la - crème made in Quebec had come anywhere near her - impression of the new Swedish triumph. She quotes the last word - from the makers themselves: "This is a very special product - that has never been made on this earth before," and speaks of - "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, "the - exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor - combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that - have come my way in a long time."</p> - - <p>And so say we—all of us.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" - id="Page_29"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Hand Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not - because we consider it great, but because it is usually - included among the eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of - others are based. It is named from having been molded into its - final shape by hand. Universally popular with Germanic races, - it is too strong for the others. To our mind, Hand cheese never - had anything that Allgäuer or Limburger hasn't improved - upon.</p> - - <p>It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of - beer and drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with - caraway seeds, the most natural spice for curds.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Limburger</b></p> - - <p>Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it - was brought over by German-American immigrants; but England - never took to it. This is eloquently expressed in the following - entry in the English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical - Cookery</i>:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently - offensive odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed - to partially decompose before pressing. It is very little - known in this country, and might be less so with advantage - to consumers.</p> - </div> - - <p>But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has - brought gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes - since it came to light in the province of Lüttich in - Belgium. It has been Americanized for almost a century and is - by now one of the very few cheeses successfully imitated here, - chiefly in New York and Wisconsin.</p> - - <p>Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion - in Green County, when the people rose in protest against the - Limburger caravan that was accustomed to park in the little - town <!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" - id="Page_30"></a>of Monroe where it was marketed. They - threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump the - odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads - were left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The - Limburger was finally stored safely underground.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Livarot</b></p> - - <p>Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine - of them all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem - dedicated to all the great French cheeses, of which we give a - free translation:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the dog days<br /></span> <span>In its - overflowing dish<br /></span> <span>Livarot - gesticulates<br /></span> <span>Or weeps like a - child.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Münster</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>At the diplomatic banquet<br /></span> <span>One - must choose his piece.<br /></span> <span>All is - politics,<br /></span> <span>A cheese and a - flag.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>You annoy the Russians<br /></span> <span>If you - take Chester;<br /></span> <span>You irritate the - Prussians<br /></span> <span>In choosing - Münster.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, - does not fare well in England. Although over here we consider - Münster far milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric - Weir in <i>When Madame Cooks</i> will have none of it:</p> - - <p><!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" - id="Page_31"></a> I cannot think why this cheese was not - thrown from the aeroplanes during the war to spread panic - amongst enemy troops. It would have proved far more - efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill people - permanently.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Neufchâtel</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>If the cream cheese be white<br /></span> - <span>Far fairer the hands that made them.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Arthur Hugh Clough<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Although originally from Normandy, Neufchâtel, like - Limburger, was so long ago welcomed to America and made so - splendidly at home here that we may consider it our very own. - All we have against it is that it has served as the model for - too many processed abominations.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano</b></p> - - <p>Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on - bread. But when well aged, let us say up to a century, it - becomes Rock of Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for - grating. It is easy to believe that the so-called "Spanish - cheese" used as a barricade by Americans in Nicaragua almost a - century ago was none other than the almost indestructible - Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy.</p> - - <p>The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. - days with the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers - not only for its energy value but as a convenient form of - rations, since every army travels on its stomach and can't go - faster than its impedimenta. The last notable mention of cheese - in war was the name of the <i>Monitor</i>: "A cheese box on a - raft."</p> - - <p>Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as - friable, sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups - such as <!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" - id="Page_32"></a>onion and minestrone. It is brittle and - just off-white when well aged.</p> - - <p>Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both - Parmesan and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in - Argentina. Romano and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names - for the strong, medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that - sell for considerably less. Most of it is now shipped from - Sardinia. There are several different kinds: Pecorino Dolce - (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino Romano Cacio, which - relates it to Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p>Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of - Pecorino are soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., - in her "Letter from Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable - <i>Little Book of Cheese</i>, writes:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, - had provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread - and a slab of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any - "thou" for either) ... But that cheese was Paradise; and - the flask was emptied, and a wood dove cooing made you - think that the flask's contents were in a crystal goblet - instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and the cheese - broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Pont L'Evêque</b></p> - - <p>This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic - made since the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert - cheese whose excellence is brought out best by a sound claret - or tawny port.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Port-Salut</b> (<i>See</i> <b>Trappist</b>)</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Provolone</b></p> - - <p>Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as - Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and - such <!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" - id="Page_33"></a>great ones did long before. But it has not - been successfully imitated here because the original is made - of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable in the Americas.</p> - - <p>With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is - put up in all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, - pears, bells, a regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of - sizes, up to a monumental hundred-pound bas-relief imported for - exhibition purposes by Phil Alpert.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Roquefort</b></p> - - <p>Homage to this <i>fromage!</i> Long hailed as <i>le roi</i> - Roquefort, it has filled books and booklets beyond count. By - the miracle of <i>Penicillium Roqueforti</i> a new cheese was - made. It is placed historically back around the eighth century - when Charlemagne was found picking out the green spots of - Persillé with the point of his knife, thinking them - decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, - recorded in their annals that when they regaled him with - Roquefort (because it was Friday and they had no fish) they - also made bold to tell him he was wasting the best part of the - cheese. So he tasted again, found the advice excellent and - liked it so well he ordered two <i>caisses</i> of it sent every - year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested that - it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with - blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening.</p> - - <p>Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from - mice and rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be - expected to send an escort of cats from their chalky caves to - guard them—even for Charlemagne. There is no telling how - many cats were mustered out in the caves, in those early days, - but a recent census put the number at five hundred. We can - readily imagine the head handler in the caves leading a night - inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster and a - regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese - also employ cats to patrol <!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" - id="Page_34"></a>their storage caves, Roquefort holds the - record for number. An interesting point in this connection - is that as rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a - gnawed one is not thrown away but greatly prized.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese</b></p> - - <p>The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for - whey cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, - a kind of clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from - Switzerland in a hard, truncated cone wrapped in a piece of - paper that says:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> To be used grated only<br /> - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese<br /> - Made of skimmed milk and herbs</p> - - <p>To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? - Try the contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading - mixed with butter, excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, - spaghetti, potatoes, soup, etc. Can be used in place of any - other cheese. <i>Do not take too much, you might spoil the - flavor</i>.</p> - </div> - - <p>We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an - envelope, and to this day, six months later, the scent of - Sapsago clings 'round it still.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Stilton</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Honor for Cheeses</i></p> - - <p>Literary and munching circles in London are putting - quite a lot of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton - cheese. There is a Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir - John Squire at the head, and already the boys are - fighting.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" - id="Page_35"></a> One side, led by Sir John, is all for - a monument.</p> - - <p>This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton - itself, although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a - pretty effective cheese-shaped figure and call it - "Dolorosa."</p> - - <p>The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who - first introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group - showing Mrs. Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and - introducing it, while the Stilton curtsies.)</p> - - <p>T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a - monument, but wants to establish a Foundation for the - Preservation of Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this - plan would depend largely on the site selected for the - treasure house and the cost of obtaining a curator who - could, or would, give his whole time to the work.</p> - - <p>Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, - agrees with Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best - form.</p> - - <p>"I should like," he says, "something - irrelevant—gargoyles, perhaps."</p> - - <p>I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there.</p> - - <p>I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this - great movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube - Goldberg.</p> - - <p>If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be - established between England and America, although the - exchange, in the case of Stilton, would have to be all on - England's side.</p> - - <p>We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while - England furnishes the cheese.</p> - - <p>There is a very good precedent for such a bargain - between the two countries.</p> - - <p class="author">Robert Benchley, in<br /> - <i>After 1903—What?</i></p> - </div> - - <p>When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an - endless after-dinner conversation piece to which England points - with pride. For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton - Fadiman's introduction to this book.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" - id="Page_36"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Taleggio and Bel Paese</b></p> - - <p>When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported - Bel Paese some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to - America. But as the years went on and imitations were made in - many lands, Galbini deemed it wise to set up his own factory in - <i>our</i> beautiful country. However, the domestic Bel Paese - and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino just didn't have - that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the German copy - called Schönland, after the original, or the French Fleur - des Alpes.</p> - - <p>Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked - up the market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini - hit the jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the - sharpest, most sophisticated pungence of them all.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka</b></p> - - <p>In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. - Always of the elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du - Salut from the original home of the Trappist monks in their - chief French abbey, it is also set apart from the ordinary - Canadians under the name of Oka, from the Trappist monastery - there. It is made by Trappist monks all over the world, - according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist - Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in - Kentucky.</p> - - <p>This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You - can't go wrong if you look for the monastery name stamped on, - such as Harzé in Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, - Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, and so forth.</p> - - <p>Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without - benefit of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the - Lion Brand. It is one of the finest American cheeses in which - we have ever sunk a fang.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" - id="Page_37"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/037.gif" - width="450" - height="310" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Four</i> - </div> - - <h2>Native Americans</h2> - - <p><b>American Cheddars</b></p> - - <p>The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around - Plymouth by Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese - from the homeland but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof - of our ability to manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the - fact that by 1790 we were exporting it back to England.</p> - - <p>It was called Cheddar after the English original named for - the village of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it - made a new name for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the - section of New York State where it was first made best. - Herkimer still equals its several distinguished competitors, - Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, Pineapple, Sage, - Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn.</p> - - <p>The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, - Cheddar, while <!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" - id="Page_38"></a> here at home it was popularly known as - yellow or store cheese from its prominent position in every - country store; also apple-pie cheese because of its affinity - for the all-American dessert.</p> - - <p>The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in - Rome, New York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer - County Cheddar already widely known, this established "New - York" as the preferred "store-boughten" cheese.</p> - - <p>An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer - Wooden Nutmeg Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting - book, <i>They Broke the Prairies</i>. A Yankee named Silvanus - Ferris, "the most successful dairyman of Herkimer County," in - the first decades of the 1800's teamed up with Robert Nesbit, - "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They bought from farmers in the - region and sold in New York City. And "according to the - business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to cheapen the - cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a bad - market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived - in a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, - the seller, unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the - market price, snapped up the offer.</p> - - <p>Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the - market, so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months - up to two years fetched higher prices. They were called "old," - such as Old Herkimer, Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old - California Jack.</p> - - <p>Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, - medium-cured, and cured or aged, commercially they are divided - into two and described as mild and sharp. The most popular are - named for their states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, - Ohio, Vermont and Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called - and named separately, Coon and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes - by its own name with no mention of Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey - Jack and Sage are seldom listed as Cheddars at all, although - they are basically that.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" - id="Page_39"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Brick</b></p> - - <p>Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world - gives America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals - say is too close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a - Cheddar under its crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet - Brick is no more distinguished than either of the hundred - percent Americans, and in our opinion is less worth bragging - about.</p> - - <p>It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for - sandwiches and melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic - but not rubbery, its taste sweetish, and it is full of little - round holes or eyes. All this has inspired enthusiasts to liken - it to Emmentaler. The most appropriate name for it has long - been "married man's Limburger." To make up for the mildness - caraway seed is sometimes added.</p> - - <p>About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge - County, Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese - made of whole cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, - stirred and cooked firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a - bottom and with slits in the sides to drain. When this is set - on the draining table a couple of bricks are also laid on the - cooked curd for pressure. It is this double use of bricks, for - shaping and for pressing, that has led to the confusion about - which came first in originating the name.</p> - - <p>The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three - days and they ripen slowly, taking up to two months.</p> - - <p>We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that - comes from Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Colorado Blackie Cheese</b></p> - - <p>A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on - our cheese map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind - and it resembles Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. - This <!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" - id="Page_40"></a>is a proud new American product, proving - that although Papa Cheddar was born in England his American - kinfolk have developed independent and valuable characters - all on their own.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Coon Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at - a higher temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from - the growth of mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more - ordinary Cheddars to make them look like Coon, which always - brings a 10 percent premium above the general run.</p> - - <p>Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from - a host of admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in - Phineas Beck's <i>Kitchen</i>, who raised it to the par of - French immortals by calling it Fromage de Coon. Clementine used - it "with scintillating success in countless French recipes - which ended with the words <i>gratiner au four et servir tres - chaud</i>. She made <i>baguettes</i> of it by soaking sticks - three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in - lukewarm milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread - crumbs and browning them instantaneously in boiling oil."</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Herkimer County Cheese</b></p> - - <p>The standard method for making American Cheddar was - established in Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been - rigidly maintained down to this day. Made with rennet and a - bacterial "starter," the curd is cut and pressed to squeeze out - all of the whey and then aged in cylindrical forms for a year - or more.</p> - - <p>Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, - sharp and nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, - mouth-watering pale orange color when it is properly aged.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" - id="Page_41"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Isigny</b></p> - - <p>Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It - seems to be extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, - for it never meant to be anything more than another Camembert, - of which we have plenty of imitation.</p> - - <p>Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect - Isigny. The curd was carefully prepared according to an - original formula, washed and rubbed and set aside to come of - age. But when it did, alas, it was more like Limburger than - Camembert, and since good domestic Limburger was then a dime a - pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet in shape the newborn - resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. So they cut - it down and named it after the delicate French Creme - d'lsigny.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack</b></p> - - <p>Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California - county where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, - and only now takes its full name after sixty years of - popularity on the West Coast. Because it is little known in the - East and has to be shipped so far, it commands the top Cheddar - price.</p> - - <p>Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto - coloring. It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it - gets sharper with age and more expensive because of storage - costs.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Liederkranz</b></p> - - <p>No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and - so deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of - Song."</p> - - <p>Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young - delicatessen <!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" - id="Page_42"></a> keeper in New York, tried to please some - bereft customers by making an imitation of Bismarck - Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the imported - German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and - Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz - singing society, didn't feel like singing without it. But - Emil's attempts at imitation only added indigestion to their - dejection, until one day—<i>fabelhaft!</i> One of - those cheese dream castles in Spain came true. He turned out - a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow little marvel - that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old - Schlosskäse. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized - Limburger, both a man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious - women adored.</p> - - <p>Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz - customers. It soon became as internationally known as tabasco - from Texas or Parisian Camembert which it slightly resembles. - Borden's bought out Frey in 1929 and they enjoy telling the - story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E Day in Paris, sent to his - family in Indiana, only a few miles from the factory at Van - Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was "the finest - cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, there - was Liederkranz.</p> - - <p>Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in - between two foreign immortals in the following recipe:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert cheese<br /> - 1 Liederkranz<br /> - ⅛ pound imported Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - ½ cup finely chopped olives<br /> - ¼ cup canned pimiento<br /> - A sprinkling of cayenne</p> - - <p>Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of - Camembert and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any - thick part off, or remove it all. Mash the soft creams - together with the Roquefort, butter and flour, using a - silver fork. Put the mix into - <!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" - id="Page_43"></a> an enameled pan, for anything with a - metal surface will turn the cheese black in cooking.</p> - - <p>Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a - smooth, creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, - and mix in the olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle - well with cayenne and put into a pot to mellow for a few - days, or much longer.</p> - </div> - - <p>The name <i>Schnitzelbank</i> comes from "school bench," a - game. This snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party - and stein songs. It is also the affinity-spread with rye and - pumpernickel, and may be served in small sandwiches or on - crackers, celery and such, to make appetizing tidbits for - cocktails, tea, or cider.</p> - - <p>Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is - eaten best at room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If - kept in the refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of - hours before serving. Since it is a natural cheese mixture, - which has gone through no process or doping with preservative, - it will not keep more than two weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is - the sort of ideal the factory processors shoot at with their - olive-pimiento abominations. Once you've potted your own, - you'll find it gives the same thrill as garnishing your own - Liptauer.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b></p> - - <p>The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the - Mississippi, in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has - established a distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the - state. Although the Roquefort process of France is followed and - the cheese is inoculated in the same way by mold from bread, it - can never equal the genuine imported, marked with its red-sheep - brand, because the milk used in Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, - and the caves are sandstone instead of limestone. Yet this is - an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" - id="Page_44"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Pineapple</b></p> - - <p>Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its - flavor, although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is - noticeable near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate - through to the Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese - have tampered with the original, so today you can't be sure of - anything except getting a smaller size every year or two, at a - higher price. Originally six pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk - to nearly six ounces. The proper bright-orange, oiled and - shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly lemon.</p> - - <p>Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the - side-board under a silver bell also made to represent a - pineapple. You cut a top slice off the cheese, just as you - would off the fruit, and there was a rose-colored, - fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a special - silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was - put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept - the cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the - rind the shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some - salubrious cold Fondue or salad.</p> - - <p>Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked - harder, Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net - that makes diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, - simulating the sections of the fruit. It is a pioneer American - product with almost a century and a half of service since Lewis - M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in Litchfield County, - Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and made a - deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what - before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese.</p> - - <p>Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in - old England, also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the - hanging up of Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser - pattern of the four sustaining strings.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" - id="Page_45"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State</b></p> - - <p>The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called - originally, shows the several phases most cheeses have gone - through, from their simple, honest beginnings to - commercialization, and sometimes back to the real thing.</p> - - <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i> has an - early Sage recipe:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage - leaves and greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it - is given thus: Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage - leaves with an equal quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze - out the juice. Add this to the extract of rennet and stir - into the milk as much as your taste may deem sufficient. - Break the curd when it comes, salt it, fill the vat high - with it, press for a few hours, and then turn the cheese - every day.</p> - </div> - - <p><i>Fancy Cheese in America, lay</i> Charles A. Publow, - records the commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a - century or two later, in 1910:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar - variety. Its distinguishing features are a mottled green - color and a sage flavor. The usual method of manufacture is - as follows: One-third of the total amount of milk is placed - in a vat by itself and colored green by the addition of - eight to twelve ounces of commercial sage color to each - 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn leaves (unavailable in - England) or other substances are used for coloring, the - amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then made up by - the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the - whey the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, - however, to mix the curds at the time of milling, as a more - distinct color is secured. After milling, the sage extract - flavoring is sprayed over the curd with an atomizer. The - curd is then <!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" - id="Page_46"></a>salted and pressed into the regular - Cheddar shapes and sizes.</p> - - <p>A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York - State College of Agriculture by simply dropping green - coloring, made from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon - the curd, after milling. An even green mottling is thus - easily secured without additional labor. Sage flavoring - extract is sprayed over the curd by an atomizer. One-half - ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient for a hundred - pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses.</p> - </div> - - <p>A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) - method:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at - present the cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild - sage because it has the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, - thujone, is diluted with water, 250 parts to one, and - either added to the milk or sprayed over the curds, - one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk.</p> - </div> - - <p>In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing - today, we wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this - reply:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best - native Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only - one factory making it and that is my friend, George - Crowley's. He makes a limited amount for my Vermont Country - Store. It is the fine old-time full cream cheese, flavored - with real sage.</p> - - <p>On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get - enough sage cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin - cheesemaker if he would make some. Said he would but - couldn't at that time—because the alfalfa wasn't - ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to do with sage - cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese with a - synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green."</p> - - <p>So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw - George Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We - don't use synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like - that."</p> - - <p>"<!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" - id="Page_47"></a> Then what do you use, George?" I - inquired.</p> - - <p>"We use real sage."</p> - - <p>"Why?"</p> - - <p>"Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic - stuff."</p> - </div> - - <p>The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on - it:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to - full flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor - recalling smoked cheese, although not related in any way. - Mildly resinous like that Near East one packed in pine, - suggesting the well-saged dressing of a turkey. A round - mouthful of luscious mellowness, with a bouquet—a - snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just a - soupçon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of - herb to delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is - the <i>véritable vert</i>, green cheese—the - moon is made of it! <i>Vert véritable.</i> A general - favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for generations - of lusty crumblers.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese</b></p> - - <p>We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together - with some Vermont store cheese and some crackers.</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store - cheese—it's been in old country stores for - generations and we have been pioneers in spreading the word - about it. It is, of course, a natural aged cheese, no - processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made the - same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and - also has holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages - faster.</p> - - <p>Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth - century and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading - cheesemaking state in the Union? When I was a lad, every - town in Vermont had one or more cheese factories. Now there - are only two left—not counting any that make process. - Process isn't cheese!</p> - - <p><!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" - id="Page_48"></a> The crackers are the old-time store - cracker—every Vermonter used to buy a big barrel - once a year to set in the buttery and eat. A classic - dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold milk, with - a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These - crackers are not sweet, not salt, and as such make a - good base for anything—swell with clam chowder, - also with toasted cheese....</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Tillamook</b></p> - - <p>It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to - record the story of Oregon's great Tillamook. <i>The Cheddar - Box</i>, by Dean Collins, comes neatly boxed and bound in - golden cloth stamped with a purple title, like the rind of a - real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled <i>Cheese Cheddar</i>, and - Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled Tillamook and - molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume I from - a noted <i>littérateur</i>, and never could get him to - come across with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from - a note on the flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an - excellent cheese, full cream and medium sharp, and a unique set - of books in which Volume II suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are - to be tasted, others to be swallowed, and some few to be chewed - and digested.'"</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Wisconsin Longhorn</b></p> - - <p>Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it - is only fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of - national standard, even though it's not nearly so fancy or - high-priced as some of the regional natives that can't approach - its enormous output. It's one of those all-purpose round - cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. We are specially - partial to it.</p> - - <p>Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all - of <!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" - id="Page_49"></a>these thirty-seven states together, they - produce only about half as much as Wisconsin alone.</p> - - <p>Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional - competitors ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no - annatto coloring has been added, through Green Bay cheese to - Wisconsin Redskin and Martha Washington Aged, proudly set forth - by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who is said to have "won more - prizes in forty years than any ten cheesemakers put - together."</p> - - <p>To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie - cheese, the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, - recognizing the truth of Eugene Field's jingle:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Apple pie without cheese<br /></span> <span>Is - like a kiss without a squeeze.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made - legal and the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. - It's still in force:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Butter and cheese to be served.</i> Every person, - firm or corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or - restaurant shall serve with each meal for which a charge of - twenty-five cents or more is made, at least two-thirds of - an ounce of Wisconsin butter and two-thirds of an ounce of - Wisconsin cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces - so much Swiss that the state is sometimes called - Swissconsin.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" - id="Page_50"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/050.gif" - width="340" - height="350" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Five</i> - </div> - - <h2>Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits</h2> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which - is even now continually presenting itself to my - recollection, with all its associated train of pipes, - egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, metaphysics and poetry.</p> - - <p class="author">Charles Lamb,<br /> - IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE</p> - </div> - - <p>Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: - "First catch your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off - with "First catch your Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to - smuggle in formerly forbidden <i>fromages</i> such as - Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures - thereof. We run the gamut <!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" - id="Page_51"></a> of personal preferences in selecting the - Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or - store cheese, to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it - is still Cheddar, no matter how you slice it.</p> - - <p>Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of - all-American trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, - succotash and maybe marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, - tabasco and sundry bottled red devils from the grocery store, - to add pep and piquance to the traditional cayenne and black - pepper. This results in Rabbits that are out of focus, out of - order and out of this world.</p> - - <p>Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is - left out by braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave - it. And, in these degenerate days, when it comes to - substitutions for the original beer or stale pale ale, we find - the gratings of great Cheddars wet down with mere California - sherry or even ginger ale—yet so far, thank goodness, no - Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum Turn - Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream.</p> - - <p>In view of all this, we can only look to the standard - cookbooks for salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, - our thoughtful mothers, wives and sweethearts who have saved - the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If it weren't for these Fanny - Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal Welsh Rabbit would be - a lost art—lost in sporting male attempts to improve upon - the original.</p> - - <p>The girls are still polite about the whole thing and - protectively pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to - "Rarebit" in their culinary guides. We have heard that once a - club of ladies in high society tried to high-pressure the - publishers of Mr. Webster's dictionary to change the old - spelling in their favor. Yet there is a lot to be said for this - more genteel and appetizing rendering of the word, for the - Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of - cheesemongery, male or female.</p> - - <p>Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets - down more than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of - Rabbits: No. 1, <!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" - id="Page_52"></a> the wild male type made with beer, and No. - 2, the mild female made with milk. Yet now that the chafing - dish has come back to stay, there's a flurry in the Rabbit - warren and the new cooking encyclopedias give up to a dozen - variants. Actually there are easily half a gross of valid - ones in current esteem.</p> - - <p>The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid - ingredient, but both the beer and the milk are used only one - way—warm, or anyway at room temperature. And again for - the two, there is but one traditional cheese—Cheddar, - ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This is also - called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin - Longhorn, mouse, and even rat.</p> - - <p>The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes - dozens of varieties under different names, regional or - commercial. These are easily identified as - sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><b>sight:</b> Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's - one of those round cheeses that also tastes round in the - mouth.</p> - - <p><b>hearing:</b> By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a - melon-picker, can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready - for the Rabbit. When you hear your dealer say, "It's six - months old or more," enough said.</p> - - <p><b>smell:</b> A scent as fresh as that of the daisies - and herbs the mother milk cow munched "will hang round it - still." Also a slight beery savor.</p> - - <p><b>touch:</b> Crumbly—a caress to the fingers.</p> - - <p><b>taste:</b> The quintessence of this fivefold test. - Just cuddle a crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the - taste buds it's prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's - proof it will melt in the pan.</p> - </div> - - <p>Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for - the No. 2 temperance alternative) we must point out that beer - has a <!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" - id="Page_53"></a>special affinity for Cheddar. The French - have clearly established this in their names for Welsh - Rabbit, <i>Fromage Fondue à la Bière</i> and - <i>Fondue à l'Anglaise</i>.</p> - - <p>To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may - have a preference all his own, for here the question comes up - of how it melts best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, - chop, cut, scrape or crumble it in the fingers? This will vary - according to one's temperament and the condition of the cheese. - Generally, for best results it is coarsely grated. When it - comes to making all this into a rare bit of Rabbit there - is:</p> - - <p><b>The One and Only Method</b></p> - - <p>Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding - aluminum and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering - water in the lower one, but don't let the water boil up or - touch the top pan.</p> - - <p>Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of - butter or margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly - grated cheese, usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with - one-half cup of liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't - necessary for a cheese that should melt by itself.)</p> - - <p>The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together - and kept from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction - only, over an even heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, - sterling silver or porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft - metal—the taste may come off to taint the job.</p> - - <p>Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and - add it gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let - it come to the bubbling point, and never let it boil.</p> - - <p>Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will - take two or three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same - direction without an instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or - more, until the Rabbit is smooth. The consistency and velvety - <!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" - id="Page_54"></a>smoothness depend a good deal on whether or - not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added.</p> - - <p>The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle - the top with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any - case set it forth as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast - hellishly hot, whether it's browned or buttered on one side or - both.</p> - - <p>Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name - was Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." - Something very similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to - cool down—when it's cold it's cold all over, and you - can't resuscitate it by heating.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - BASIC WELSH RABBIT - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 1 (with beer)</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 cups grated old Cheddar<br /> - ½ teaspoon English dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with<br /> - ½ cup light beer or ale<br /> - 4 slices hot buttered toast</p> - - <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, - stirring steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon - in one direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt - your rhythmic stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of - the beer-and-egg mixture until it's all used up.</p> - - <p>It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve - the essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick - it out as smooth as velvet.</p> - - <p>Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled - Rabbit is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and - the best of cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting - stringy or rubbery. <!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" - id="Page_55"></a> Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, - freshly buttered toast and serve instantly on hot - plates.</p> - </div> - - <p>Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and - some aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side - with cold butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot - plate, buttered side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous - untoasted side so it can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady - Llanover's recipe, which appears on page 52 of this book.)</p> - - <p>Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, - there is now no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, - rolls, muffins, buns, croutons and crackers, to infinity.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 2 (with milk)</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For a rich milk Rabbit use ½ cup thin cream, - evaporated milk,<br /> - whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. - Then, to<br /> - keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or - leave<br /> - it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, - the<br /> - use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our - feeling is<br /> - that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left - out.</p> - </div> - - <p>Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and - more cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against - stringiness. When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that - a teaspoon or so of cornstarch generally takes its place.</p> - - <p>Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and - stirring, so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience - and rhythm. As a rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is - almost melted, and speed of stirring slows when the eggs and - last ingredients go in.</p> - - <p>Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps - up the flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using - one-half teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes - to pepper you are fancy-free. As both black and white - <!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" - id="Page_56"></a>pepper are now held in almost equal esteem, - you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do the - grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. - Tabasco sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but - some addicts can't leave it out any more than they can swear - off the Worcestershire.</p> - - <p>The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that - goes for milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So - let us consider the compromise of our old friend Frederick - Philip Stieff, the Baltimore <i>homme de bouche</i>, as he set - it forth for us years ago in <i>10,000 Snacks</i>: "The idea of - cooking a Rabbit with beer is an exploded and dangerous theory. - Tap your keg or open your case of ale or beer and serve - <i>with</i>, not in your Rabbit."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Stieff - Recipe</b> BASIC MILK RABBIT</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>completely surrounded by a lake of malt - beverages</i>)</p> - - <p>2 cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - 3 heaping tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 1 heaping tablespoon mustard<br /> - 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce<br /> - Pepper, salt and paprika to taste—then add more of - each.</p> - - <p>Grease well with butter the interior of your double - boiler so that no hard particles of cheese will form in the - mixture later and contribute undesirable lumps.</p> - - <p>Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add - butter and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should - be indulged in until Rabbit is ready for serving.</p> - - <p>Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, - pepper, salt and paprika. These should be beaten until - light and then slowly poured into the double boiler. - Nothing now remains to be done except to stir and cook down - to proper consistency over a fairly slow flame. The finale - has not arrived until you can drip the rabbit from the - spoon and spell the word <i>finis</i> on the surface. - <!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" - id="Page_57"></a> Pour over two pieces of toast per - plate and send anyone home who does not attack it at - once.</p> - - <p>This is sufficient for six gourmets or four - gourmands.</p> - </div> - - <p><i>Nota bene</i>: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should - never be of the consistency whereby it may be used to tie up - bundles, nor yet should it bounce if inadvertently dropped on - the kitchen floor.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and - cow's milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so - much as to drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread - less than ¼ inch thick, to be quite crisp, and - spread it very thinly with fresh, cold butter on the - toasted side. (It must not be saturated.) Lay the toasted - cheese upon the untoasted bread side and serve immediately - on a very hot plate. The butter on the toast can, of - course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten without - butter.)</p> - </div> - - <p>From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen - still call Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover - goes on to point out that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and - the Melted or Stewed Buck Rabbit of England (which has become - our American standard) are as different in the making as the - regional cheeses used in them, and she says that while doctors - prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for invalids, the - stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to strong - digestions."</p> - - <p>English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese - of Wales and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent - "threads of unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments - (that may be pulled from its tough and tenacious - substance)."</p> - - <p>Yet not all of the references are complimentary.</p> - - <p>Thus Shakespeare in <i>King Lear</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" - id="Page_58"></a> <span>Look, look a - mouse!<br /></span> <span>Peace, peace;—this - piece of toasted cheese will do it.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>And Sydney Smith's:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and - hard salted meat has led to suicide.</p> - </div> - - <p>But Rhys Davis in <i>My Wales</i> makes up for such - rudenesses:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>The Welsh Enter Heaven</i></p> - - <p>The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth - of good singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear - excellent singing outside the walls. Why are not those - singers here with me?"</p> - - <p>St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come - in; they say they are happy enough outside, playing with a - ball and boxing and singing such songs as '<i>Suspan - Fach</i>'"</p> - - <p>The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach - and Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown."</p> - - <p>St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands - of the Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, - St. Peter went to consult with St. David, who, with a - smile, was reading the works of Caradoc Evans.</p> - - <p>St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just - inside the gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in - front of it" This St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the - sizzling, browning cheese was wafted over the walls and, - with loud shouts, a great concourse of the Welsh came - sprinting in. When sufficient were inside to make up a male - voice choir of a hundred, St Peter slammed the gates. - However, it is said that these are the only Welsh in - Heaven.</p> - </div> - - <p>And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice - grow and grow to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only - strawberry jam but toasted cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" - id="Page_59"></a> Then there's the frightening nursery - rhyme:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Irishman loved usquebaugh,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">The Scot loved ale called - Bluecap.<br /></span> <span>The Welshman, he loved - toasted cheese,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And made - his mouth like a mousetrap.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Irishman was drowned in - usquebaugh,<br /></span> <span class="i2">The Scot was - drowned in ale,<br /></span> <span>The Welshman he near - swallowed a mouse<br /></span> <span class="i2">But he - pulled it out by the tail.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, - this tune in <i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted - cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English - with Dr. William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen - enlivened the <i>Blackwoods Magazine</i> era with <i>Ten - Tales</i>:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dr. Maginn's Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for - supper. It is the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy - eating. I like it best in the genuine Welsh way, - however—that is, the toasted bread buttered on both - sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef with - mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire <i>thoroughly</i> saturated, - while, in the process of toasting, with genuine porter, - black pepper, and shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the - assertion that this is not a heavy supper for a man who has - been busy all day till dinner in reading, writing, walking - or riding—who has occupied himself between dinner and - supper in the discussion of a bottle or two of sound wine, - or any equivalent—and who proposes to swallow at - least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" - id="Page_60"></a> The popularity of this has come down to us - in the succinct summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no - master."</p> - - <p>The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper - sandwich was served, a century and a half ago; for it was - served as a savory to sum up and help digest a dinner, in this - form:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>After-Dinner Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides - and soak to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of - sharp old cheese in butter in an iron skillet, with an - added spot of beer and dry English mustard. Stir steadily - with a wooden spoon and, when velvety, serve a-sizzle on - piping hot beer-soaked toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy - dish of Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in - Elizabethan London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also - called a Buck Rabbit, was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese - on Fleet Street, where Dr. Johnson later presided. And it must - have been the pick of the town back in the days when barrooms - still had sawdust on the floor, for the learned Doctor endorsed - old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: "There is nothing - which has been contrived by man by which so much happiness is - produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as may be - judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to - "a baby's ear dropped in sawdust."</p> - - <p>Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the - world's first Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't - have to look far for on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of - letters at "The Cheese," as it was affectionately called. To a - man they sang praises for that piping hot dish of preserved and - beatified milk.</p> - - <p>Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester - of <i>Punch</i>, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to - the memory of Lovelace:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 61 --><a name="Page_61" - id="Page_61"></a> <span>Champagne will not a - dinner make,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Nor - caviar a meal<br /></span> <span>Men gluttonous - and rich may take<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Those till they make them - ill<br /></span> <span class="i4">If I've potatoes - to my chop,<br /></span> <span class="i4">And - after chop have cheese,<br /></span> - <span class="i4">Angels in Pond and Spiers's - shop<br /></span> <span class="i4">Know no such - luxuries.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a - reasonable substitute. The base of this is what was once - quaintly called a "hot-water bath." This was a sort of - miniature wash boiler just big enough to fit in snugly half a - dozen individual tins, made squarish and standing high enough - above the bath water to keep any of it from getting into the - stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since such a - tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of - fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or - even small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler - or chafing dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the - "cheese stewer" in stainless steel, silver or glass.</p> - - <p>In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, - "bubbling and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding - that's still famous. Although down the centuries the recipe has - been kept secret, the identifiable ingredients have been - itemized as follows: "Tender steak, savory oyster, seductive - kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent pepper and - delicate paste"—not to mention mushrooms. And after the - second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, - bitter, or the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a - dented pewter pot, "the stewed Cheshire cheese."</p> - - <p>Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by - tradition and appetite from the time when Charles II aled and - regaled Nell Gwyn at "The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to - have sampled this "kind of a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served - piping hot in the square shallow tins in which it is cooked and - garnished with sippets of delicately colored toast."</p> - - <p><!-- Page 62 --><a name="Page_62" - id="Page_62"></a> Among early records is this report of - Addison's in <i>The Spectator</i> of September 25,1711:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about - midnight, when the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. - He that yawns widest, and at the same time so naturally as - to produce the most yawns amongst his spectators, carries - home the cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of - Simpson's in the Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest - that drew crowds to his fashionable eating and drinking place. - He would set forth a huge portion of cheese and wager champagne - and cigars for the house that no one present could correctly - estimate the weight, height and girth of it.</p> - - <p>As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson - to "The Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met - there, showed that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was - tuppence, and that this was also the amount of the usual - tip.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ye Original Recipe</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ ounces butter<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - 1½ cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, - snappier, richer,<br /> - and more brightly colored than its first cousin, - Cheddar)</p> - - <p>Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese - and let it stew.</p> - - <p>You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual - tin, or pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top - under a blistering salamander.</p> - - <p>The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can - brand your own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of - your own Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, - like the stew tin, and about the size of a piece of - toast</p> - </div> - - <p>It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, - but not lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were - washed down <!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" - id="Page_63"></a>in tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, - stout, and 'arf and 'arf.</p> - - <p>This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of - Johnson's time supped while they smoked their church wardens, - received its highest praise from an American newspaper woman - who rhapsodized in 1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin - shaving of crisp, golden toast in hot silver saucers—so - hot that the cheese was the substance of thick cream, the - flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries commingled."</p> - - <p>This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses - hold a trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched - the milk. Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyère, - Parmesan wafts the scent of Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of - England is perfumed with the petals of rose, violet, marigold - and jasmine.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oven Rabbit</b> (FROM AN OLD - RECIPE)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Chop small ½ pound of cooking cheese. Put it, - with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, in a little - saucepan, and as the butter melts and the cheese gets warm, - mash them together,</p> - - <p>When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, ½ teacupful of - ale, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden - spoon one way only, until it is creamy, but do not let it - boil, for that would spoil it. Place some slices of - buttered toast on a dish, pour the Rarebit upon them, and - set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before serving.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yorkshire Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>(originally called Gherkin Buck, from a pioneer - recipe</i>)</p> - - <p>Put into a saucepan ½ pound of cheese, sprinkle - with pepper (black, of course) to taste, pour over ½ - teacup of ale, and convert the whole into a smooth, creamy - mass, over the fire, stirring continually, for about 10 - minutes.</p> - - <p>In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes - altogether is the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot - toast, place a piece of broiled bacon on the top of each - and serve as hot as possible.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" - id="Page_64"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer - (No. 1) plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, - gave it its shining name a couple of centuries ago. - Nowadays some chafing dish show-offs try to gild the Golden - Buck with dashes of ginger and spice.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck II</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon - strips.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Venerable Yorkshire - Buck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Spread ½-inch slices of bread with mustard and - brown in hot oven. Then moisten each slice with ½ - glass of ale, lay on top a slice of cheese ¼-inch - thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of that. Put back in - oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon crisp, and - serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale.</p> - </div> - - <p>Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yale College Welsh Rabbit</b> - (MORIARTY'S)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 jigger of beer<br /> - ¼ teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ¼ teaspoon mustard<br /> - 1½ cups grated or shaved cheese<br /> - More beer</p> - - <p>Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on - the seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, - moistening from time to time with more beer, a pony or two - at a time.</p> - - <p>When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this - amount) and serve with still more beer.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" - id="Page_65"></a> There are two schools of postgraduate - Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, with beer both in the Rabbit - and with it; and the other featured in the Stieff Recipe, - which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but taps a keg - to drink with it.</p> - - <p>The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered - by the use of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is - often used today and is thought more sophisticated by some than - the red cayenne of Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish - Rabbit, which is precisely the same as our Basic Recipe No. - 1.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Border-hopping Bunny, or - Frijole Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ tablespoons chopped onion<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both<br /> - 1½ teaspoon chili powder<br /> - 1 small can kidney beans, drained<br /> - 1½ tablespoons catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire<br /> - Salt<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili - powder; add kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the - cheese until melted.</p> - - <p>Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or - crackers, toasted and buttered.</p> - </div> - - <p>In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular - modern ones are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in - from everywhere, from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all - kinds of quirks, down to mixing in some dried beef, and there - is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit for reducers, made with farmer - cheese and skimmed milk.</p> - - <p>Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the - great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery - and more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. - The following is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, - since it <!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" - id="Page_66"></a>has had a successful run through a score of - the best modern cookbooks, with only slight personal changes - to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ¾ cup thin cream or evaporated milk<br /> - ¾ cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to - remove seeds<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when - this white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato - sprinkled with soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding - cheese and seasonings, and when cooked enough, stir in the - eggs to make a creamy texture, smooth as silk. Serve on - buttered whole wheat or graham bread for a change.</p> - </div> - - <p>Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a - tablespoon of bicarbonate of potash."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>South African Tomato - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is the same as above, except that ½ teaspoon - of sugar is used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is - poured over baked pastry cut into squares and sprinkled - with parsley, chopped fine, put in the oven and served - immediately.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum - Ditty, etc.</b> (OLD BOSTON STYLE)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 onion, minced<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 big pinch of pepper<br /> - 2 cups cooked tomatoes<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> - 3 cups grated store cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - <!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" - id="Page_67"></a></p> - - <p>Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add - tomatoes with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. - Don't let it boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the - pan until it melts. Then stir in egg gently and serve very - hot</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Soup Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and - egg slowly, season and serve hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, - housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery - Rabbit if you use a can of celery soup in place of the - tomato.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1½ cups - cooked tomatoes and add ½ cup of mashed boiled - onions.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 small onion, minced<br /> - 1 small green pepper, minced<br /> - 1 can tomato soup<br /> - ¾ cup milk<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 jigger sherry<br /> - Crackers</p> - - <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to - retain its flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until - it's about ⅓ full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over - them.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" - id="Page_68"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blushing Bunny</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum - Tum Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little - rosier with a lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and - the paprika cooked in from the start, of course.</p> - </div> - - <p>Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for - dishes, like Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble - and Squeak <i>(Bubblum Squeakum</i>), and Toad in the Hole.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Scotch Woodcock</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum - Tiddy, but before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in - 2 heaping tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the - buttered toast by laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Woodchuck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups tomato purée<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - 1 tablespoon brown sugar<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly - melted stir in the egg and, when almost cooked, add - seasonings without ever interrupting the stirring. Pour - over hot toasted crackers or bread.</p> - </div> - - <p>No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar - was named after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of - the Scotch Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's - sweetened with brown sugar.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Running Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, First Annual - Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937</i>) - <!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" - id="Page_69"></a></p> - - <p>Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and - melt in saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add - Worcestershire sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>This running cony can be poured over toast like any other - Rabbit, or over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry - Rum Tum Tiddy, or served like Fondue, in the original cooking - bowl or pan, with the spoon kept moving in it in one direction - only and the Rabbit following the spoon, like a greyhound - following the stuffed rabbit at the dog races.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mexican Chilaly</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1½ tablespoons - chopped onion<br /> - 1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without - seeds<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¾ teaspoon salt<br /> - Dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 2 tablespoons canned tomato juice<br /> - Water cress</p> - - <p>Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp - and cook 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and - stirring steadily as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten - the egg with the tomato juice and stir in until the Rabbit - is thick and velvety.</p> - - <p>Serve on toast and dress with water cress.</p> - </div> - - <p>This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum - Tiddy in spite of the centuries' difference in age.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs - to make it more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve - it hot over cold slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on - hot buttered toast, to make it extra eggy.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" - id="Page_70"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes ½-inch thick, - season with salt, pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot - both sides with all the butter that won't slip off.</p> - - <p>Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove - and broil on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the - usual toast and pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is - made according to either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.)</p> - - <p>Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a - touch of horseradish help.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato and Onion - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice ¼-inch thick an equal number of tomato and - onion rings. Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots - of butter. Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked - remove and broil lightly.</p> - - <p>On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the - tomato ones and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain - Grilled Tomato recipe above.</p> - </div> - - <p>For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion - Rabbit.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Devil's Own</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>a fresh tomato variant</i>)</p> - - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - A pinch of cayenne<br /> - A dash of tabasco sauce<br /> - 2 tablespoons chili sauce<br /> - ½ cup ale or beer<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 - tablespoon butter. Keep warm on hot platter while you make - the toast and a Basic <!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" - id="Page_71"></a> Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot - seasonings listed above. Put hot tomato slices on hot - toast on hot plates; pour the hot mixture over.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dried Beef or Chipped Beef - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded<br /> - ¼ pound dried beef, shredded<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ teaspoon pepper<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until - mixed well, then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated - cheese until smooth and creamy. Serve on toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called - both dried beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, - <i>tasajo</i> on the other side, and <i>xarque</i> when you get - all the way down to Brazil.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Kansas Jack Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup cream-style corn<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and - season to taste. Serve on hot buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must - have been easier to make on Baron Münchhausen's "Island of - Cheese," where the cornstalks produced loaves of bread, - ready-made, instead of ears, and were no doubt crossed with - long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits quite as - miraculous.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" - id="Page_72"></a> After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions - and then green peppers or canned pimientos as vegetable - ingredients in modern, Americanized Rabbits. And after that, - corn, as in the following recipe which appeals to all - Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has - everything.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Latin-American Corn - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 green pepper, chopped<br /> - 1 large onion, chopped<br /> - ½ cup condensed tomato soup<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 1 cup canned corn<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, - cover and cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add - cheese with seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the - corn, and when thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the - egg with a little of the liquid, stir in until thickened - and then pour over hot toast or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mushroom-Tomato - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced - fresh mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting - over boiling water 2 cups of grated cheese with ½ - teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily - and, when partially melted, stir in a can of condensed - tomato soup, previously heated. Then add the fried - mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot toast - or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Celery and Onion - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup chopped hearts of celery<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1½ cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - <!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" - id="Page_73"></a></p> - - <p>In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. - Meanwhile, melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir - steadily. When nearly done stir the celery and onion in - gradually, until smooth and creamy.</p> - - <p>Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or - under the grill.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Asparagus Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced - asparagus tops for the celery and onion.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oyster Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 dozen oysters and their liquor<br /> - 1 teaspoon butter<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 large pinch of salt<br /> - 1 small pinch of cayenne<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm - while you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is - melted add the eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep - stirring. When the Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, - drop in the warm oysters to heat a little more, and serve - on hot buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sea-food Rabbits</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, - abalone, squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or - crawls on the bottom of the ocean)</i></p> - - <p>Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or - canned sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make - according to Oyster Rabbit recipe above.</p> - - <p>Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, - mixed according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit - with horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" - id="Page_74"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>"Bouquet of the Sea" - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush - bouquet of as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, - cod, salmon, etc.) as can be sardined together in the - whirlpool of melted cheese in the chafing dish. They also - accent it with tidbits of sea food as above.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or - Dried</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the - alewife to the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan - haddie, mackerel, cod, and so on, can be stirred in to make - a basic Rabbit more tasty. Happy combinations are hit upon - in mixing leftovers of several kinds by the cupful. So the - odd old cookbook direction, "Add a cup of fish," takes on - new meaning.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Sardine - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, - boned, halved and grilled, on buttered toast.</p> - - <p>Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as - succulent a grilled Rabbit.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roe Rabbits</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other - fish, grill on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit - over. Although shad roe is esteemed the finest, there are - many other sapid ones of salmon, herring, flounder, cod, - etc.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Sardine Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in - place of the egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of - sardines, skinned, boned and flaked.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" - id="Page_75"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Anchovy Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East - Indian chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, - spread toast thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and - pour the Rabbit over.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked sturgeon, whiting, - eel, smoked salmon, and the like</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and - all of them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a - Basic Rabbit over the fish.</p> - - <p>The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a - thin slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked - sturgeon.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked Cheddar Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose - palates crave the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic - Rabbit made with smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, - but unsmoked, Cheddar. We use a two-year-old that Phil - Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, brings down from Canada and has - specially smoked in the same savory room where sturgeon is - getting the works. So his Cheddar absorbs the de luxe - flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and is sold for a - fraction of that.</p> - - <p>And just in case you are fishing around for something - extra special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned - Bombay ducks, those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian - fish.</p> - - <p>Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky - Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">soaked with</span><br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - Toasted crackers<br /> - <!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" - id="Page_76"></a></p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and - seasonings. When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg - to thicken the mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry - or buttered, for contrast with the bread.</p> - - <p>Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a - cup of catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what - should be a white monkey.</p> - - <p>There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which - extend all the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked - Rabbit and consisting of alternate layers of stale bread - crumbs and grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate - three-layer Rabbit is moistened with eggs beaten up with - milk, and seasoned with salt and paprika.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 teaspoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup soft bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup tomato soup<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the - tomato soup and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring - until velvety. Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to - the bread crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gherkin or Irish - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup milk (or beer)<br /> - A dash of vinegar<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - ½ cup chopped gherkin pickles</p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and - seasonings. Keep stirring until smooth, then add the - pickles and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p>This may have been called Irish after the green of the - pickle.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" - id="Page_77"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dutch Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy - skillet with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a - splash of beer.</p> - - <p>Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or - ale and pour the Rabbit over them.</p> - - <p>The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer - and delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead.</p> - </div> - - <p>Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in - the use of prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of - things the hard way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with - water before every meal, while the Germans and French bottle - theirs, as we do.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pumpernickel Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This German deviation is made exactly the same as the - Dutch Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in - color. Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in - heated dark beer (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese - melted in the skillet is also stirred up with brunette - beer.</p> - </div> - - <p>Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the - two to commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or - black pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and - the Cheddar is noted for its beery smell, there is further - affinity here. An old English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread - and cheese are the two targets against death."</p> - - <p>By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been - coined when Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. - Contemptuously he spat it out with: "This would be good for my - horse, Nicole." "<i>Bon pour Nicole</i>" in French.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" - id="Page_78"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gruyère Welsh Rabbit - <i>au gratin</i></b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them - lightly, lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching - slice of imported Gruyère ⅜-inch thick. Pepper - to taste and cover with bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 - minutes and rush to the ultimate consumer.</p> - </div> - - <p>To our American ears anything <i>au gratin</i> suggests - "with cheese," so this Rabbit <i>au gratin</i> may sound - redundant. To a Frenchman, however, it means a dish covered - with bread crumbs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup white wine, preferably - Neufchâtel<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - ½ saltspoon paprika<br /> - 2 egg yolks</p> - - <p>Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until - it melts, then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at - least 3 more minutes until smooth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup cream or evaporated milk<br /> - ½ cup sherry<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - A dash of paprika</p> - - <p>Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of - butter, and when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep - stirring until almost all of the cheese is melted, then add - sherry. When smooth <!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" - id="Page_79"></a> and creamy, stir in the mustard and - Worcestershire sauce, and after pouring over buttered - toast dash with paprika for color.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish Sherry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 bouillon cube, mashed<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 1½ cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 jigger sherry</p> - - <p>Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in - the cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 - minutes, and when well-blended stir in the sherry and serve - on hot, buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pink Poodle</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon chopped onion<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 jigger California claret<br /> - 1 cup cream of tomato soup<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 teaspoon paprika<br /> - A dash of powdered cloves<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in - flour, wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir - in cheese slowly until melted and finish off by thickening - with the egg and stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve - on crisp, buttered toast with a dry red wine.</p> - </div> - - <p>Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss - ones with Gruyère in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly - drunk with anything from a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But - for most of us, a deep draught of beer or ale goes best with an - even deeper draught of the mellow scent of a Cheddar - golden-yellow.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" - id="Page_80"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Savory Eggy Dry - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Gruyère<br /> - 4 eggs, well-beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - Mustard</p> - - <p>Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, - stirring steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. - Season and pour over dry toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up - for any lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the - sweets to finish a fine meal in some old-fashioned English - homes and hostelries.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is - more scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply - scramble a half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper - and cayenne, and just before the finish work in the cheese - until smooth and serve on crackers—water crackers for - a change.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Reducing Rarebit</b> (Tomato - Rarebit)<a name="FNanchor_A_1" - id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" - class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving.</p> - - <p>½ pound farmer cheese<br /> - 2 eggs<br /> - 1 level tablespoon powdered milk<br /> - 1 level teaspoon baking powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder<br /> - 4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or<br /> - 2 tomatoes, quartered<br /> - 1 teaspoon caraway seeds<br /> - ¼ teaspoon garlic powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon parsley flakes<br /> - ½ head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber<br /> - ¼ cup wine vinegar<br /> - Salt and pepper to taste</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" - id="Page_81"></a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fill bottom of double boiler with water to ¾ - mark. Sprinkle salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil - over medium flame. When upper part is hot, put in cheese, - powdered milk, baking powder, gelatin, caraway seeds and - pepper and garlic powder to taste. Mix. Break eggs into - this mixture, cook over low flame, continually stirring. - Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and continue cooking and - stirring until tomatoes have been cooked soft. Remove to - lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has been - slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_A_1" - id="Footnote_A_1"></a> - <a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> - (from <i>The Low-Calory Cookbook</i> by Bernard Koten, - published by Random House)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Curry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon cornstarch<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon minced chives<br /> - 2 green onions, minced<br /> - 2 shallots, minced<br /> - ¼ teaspoon imported curry powder<br /> - 1 tablespoon chutney sauce</p> - - <p>Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald - the rest over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture - and stir in the cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and - chutney while wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and - sizzling enough to pour over buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in - Rabbits, just as they add soda to spoil the cooking of - vegetables.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ginger Ale Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the - No. 1 Rabbit of all time.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Buttermilk Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 - Rabbit. To be consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk - Cheese, instead of the usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. - This is milder.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" - id="Page_82"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggnog Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons sweet butter<br /> - 2 cups grated mellow Cheddar<br /> - 1⅓ cups eggnog<br /> - Dashes of spice to taste.</p> - - <p>After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog - and keep stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or - not, depending on taste and the quality of eggnog - employed.</p> - </div> - - <p>Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the - milkman in holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful - Rabbits have been multiplying as fast as guinea pigs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Succotash - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup creamed succotash, strained<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in - the cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the - creamed succotash and season to taste.</p> - - <p>Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 quart warm milk<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot - toast in heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in - north Denmark.</p> - - <p>As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to - taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" - id="Page_83"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Easy English Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of - cheese with butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few - spoonfuls of beer and a bit of prepared mustard. When - smoothly melted, pour over the piping-hot, beer-soaked - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 84 --> <a name="Page_84" - id="Page_84"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/084.gif" - width="450" - height="311" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Six</i> - </div> - - <h2>The Fondue</h2> - - <p>There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take - the heart out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better - than a collapsed soufflé, with his definition:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><b>Fondue.</b> Also, erroneously, <i>fondu</i>. A dish - made of melted cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and - bread crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p>Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for - centuries has been one of the world's greatest, to "a - combination of melted cheese, eggs and butter" and explains - that the name comes from the French <i>fondre</i>, meaning - melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date <i>Cook's - Quiz</i> compiled by TV culinary experts:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread - crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p>A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety - <!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" - id="Page_85"></a>and inebriety of nations, if not of - dictionaries. It has commanded the respect of the culinary - great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all have - hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with - its creamy, nay velvety, smoothness.</p> - - <p>A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black - pepper, nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne - pepper, the luscious gravy of roast turkey—such little - matters help to make an authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked - Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin a century and a - half ago brought the original "receipt" with him and spread it - around with characteristic generosity during the two years of - his exile in New York after the French Revolution. In his - monumental <i>Physiologie du Goût</i> he records an - incident that occurred in 1795:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the - restaurant-keeper Julien to make a <i>Fondue</i>, or eggs - cooked with cheese. This dish, a novelty to the Americans, - became so much the rage, that he (Julien) felt himself - obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to New York the rump - of one of those pretty little roebucks that are brought - from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite by - the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion.</p> - </div> - - <p>As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss - border (at Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where - Gertrude Stein later had a summer home), he no doubt ate - Gruyère three times a day, as is the custom in - Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe just as - he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur - Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the - number of your guests. Then take a lump of good - Gruyère cheese, weighing about a third of the eggs, - and a nut of butter about half the weight of the cheese. - (Since today's eggs in America weigh about 1½ ounces - apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. - <!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" - id="Page_86"></a>your lump of good Gruyère would - come to ¼ pound and your butter to ⅛ - pound.)</p> - - <p>Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the - butter and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces.</p> - - <p>Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden - spoon until the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a - little or no salt, according to the age of the cheese, and - a good deal of pepper, for this is one of the special - attributes of this ancient dish.</p> - - <p>Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some - of the best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite - freely, a marvelous effect will be beheld.</p> - </div> - - <p>This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the - national dish of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters - in his district laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his - Fondue with a spoon instead of the traditional fork, in the - first decade of the 1700's. He tells, too, of a Fondue party he - threw for a couple of his septuagenarian cousins in Paris - "about the year 1801."</p> - - <p>The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the - master: "By Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long - time about your Fondues, you have continually made our mouths - water. It is high time to put a stop to all this. We will come - and breakfast with you some day and see what sort of thing this - dish is."</p> - - <p>Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them - off with the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each - one's place two dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At - each end of the table stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully - wiped, excepting the cork, which showed distinctly that it had - been in the cellar for a long while.... After the oysters, - which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, a - <i>terrine</i> of <i>foie gras</i>, a pie with truffles, and - finally the Fondue. The different ingredients had all been - assembled in a stewpan, which was placed on the table over a - chafing dish, heated with spirits of wine.</p> - - <p>"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the - field of battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of - <!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" - id="Page_87"></a>my movements. They were loud in the praise - of this preparation, and asked me to let them have the - receipt, which I promised them...."</p> - - <p>This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century - such a good start was polished off with "fruits in season and - sweets, a cup of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of - liqueurs, one a spirit for cleansing, and the other an oil for - softening."</p> - - <p>This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more - elaborately in what is called:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neufchâtel - Style</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ cups grated imported Swiss<br /> - 1½ tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 clove of garlic<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> - Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big - mouthfuls, handy<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">for dunking</span><br /> - 1 jigger kirsch<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - Nutmeg</p> - - <p>The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and - mixed well with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking - and a small heated casserole for serving. Hub the bottom - and sides of the blazer well with garlic, pour in the wine - and heat to bubbling, just under boiling. Add cheese - slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir steadily in one - direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a silver - fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on how - salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, - freshly ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the - kirsch, stir steadily and invite guests to dunk their - forked bread in the dish or in a smaller preheated - casserole over a low electric or alcohol burner on the - dining table. The trick is to keep the bubbling melted - cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up and down - and around and around.</p> - </div> - - <p>The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through - the soft part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your - bread <!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" - id="Page_88"></a>comes off in dunking you pay a forfeit, - often a bottle of wine.</p> - - <p>The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests - taking regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese - swirling. When this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has - been called in England, is ready for eating, each in turn - thrusts in his fork, sops up a mouthful with the bread for a - sponge and gives the Fondue a final stir, to keep it always - moving in the same direction. All the while the heat beneath - the dish keeps it gently bubbling.</p> - - <p>Such a Neufchâtel party was a favorite of King Edward - VII, especially when he was stepping out as the Prince of - Wales. He was as fond of Fondue as most of the great gourmets - of his day and preferred it to Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of - the wine and kirsch that went into it.</p> - - <p>At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue - gets too thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in - the bottom of the dish, this is forked out by the host and - divided among the guests as a very special dividend.</p> - - <p>Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the - Switzerland Cheese Association, in broadcasting this classical - recipe, points out that any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, - including applejack, will be a valid substitute for the kirsch. - To us, applejack seems specially suited, when we stop to - consider our native taste that has married apple pie to cheese - since pioneer times.</p> - - <p>In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible - consistency" and this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese - alone, although we use it chiefly for that.</p> - - <p>In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish - of eggs scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very - hot on toasted bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly - browned on top and served at once. The reason for this is that - all baked Fondues fall as easily and as far as Soufflés, - although the latter are more noted for this failing. There is a - similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, although the Fondues - are always more moist. For there is a stiff, stuffed-shirt - buildup around any Soufflé, - <!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" - id="Page_89"></a>suggesting a dressy dinner, while Fondue - started as a self-service dunking bowl.</p> - - <p>Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original - French Fondue on the Welsh Rabbit model—to turn it into a - sort of French Rabbit. Although we know that both - Gruyère and Emmentaler are what we call Swiss and that - it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich Alpine flavor - given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all sorts - of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to - stick to Savarin's "lump of Gruyère" just as the - neighboring French and Italians do. It is interesting to note - that this Swiss Alpine cooking has become so international that - it is credited to Italy in the following description we reprint - from <i>When Madame Cooks</i>, by an Englishman, Eric Weir:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fondue à - l'Italienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel - really grateful to hens. From its name it originated - probably in Italy, but it has crossed the Alps. I have - often met it in France, but only once in Italy.</p> - - <p>First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, - flour and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow - the wooden spoon to stand upright or almost.</p> - - <p>Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated - Gruyère cheese. Mix this in well with the white - sauce and season with salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. - Beat whites of egg firm. Add the whites to the preparation, - stir in, and pour into a pudding basin.</p> - - <p>Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring - to a boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top - of the basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently - for 1½ to 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time - to time, as it evaporates, and take care that the water, in - boiling, does not bubble over the mixture.</p> - - <p>Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is - cooked. When <!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" - id="Page_90"></a> the knife comes out clean, take the - basin out of the water and turn the Fondue out on a - dish. It should be fairly firm and keep the shape of the - basin.</p> - - <p>Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, - then marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before - being melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be - pleasantly adopted here in:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed<br /> - ¾ cup scuppernong or other American white - wine<br /> - 1½ jiggers applejack</p> - - <p>After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply - melt together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, - add the applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your - own to a chorus of "All Bound Round with a Woolen - String."</p> - - <p>Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh - Rabbit and poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. - But wine is the thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine - what the Rabbit is to stale ale or fresh beer.</p> - </div> - - <p>We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over - the dish so eagerly, together with the great Gruyère - that makes it distinctive. They internationalized it, sent it - around the world with bouillabaisse and onion soup, that - celestial <i>soupe à l'oignon</i> on which snowy showers - of grated Gruyère descend.</p> - - <p>To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue - à l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike - relationship of the world's two favorite dishes of melted - cheese. But to differentiate and show they are not identical - twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage Fondue while the second - was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" - id="Page_91"></a> Beginning with Savarin the French whisked - up more rapturous, rhapsodic writing about Gruyère - and its offspring, the Fondue, together with the puffed - Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese except - Parmesan.</p> - - <p>Parmesan and Gruyère were praised as the two greatest - culinary cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian - cheese.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper</p> - - <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir - in the eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one - direction only, until smooth.</p> - - <p>Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as - the ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten - with a fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like - chicken-in-the-rough.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sapsago Swiss Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups shredded Swiss cheese<br /> - 2½ tablespoons grated Sapsago<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - Pepper, black and red, freshly ground<br /> - Fingers of toast</p> - - <p>Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into - a smooth, fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss - cheese until well melted. After that add the Sapsago, - finely grated, and wine in small splashes. Stir steadily, - in one direction only, until velvety. Season sharply with - the contrasting peppers and serve over fingers of - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" - id="Page_92"></a> This is also nice when served bubbling in - individual, preheated pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, - although this way most of the fun of the dunking party is - left out. To make up for it, however, cooked slices of - mushrooms are sometimes added.</p> - - <p>At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss - Pavilion, where a continual dunking party was in progress, - thousands of amateurs learned such basic things as not to - overcook the Fondue lest it become stringy, and the protocol of - dunking in turn and keeping the mass in continual motion until - the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of bread. The - success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping it - gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split - second.</p> - - <p>The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese - per capita as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are - willing to share Fondue honors with the French Alpine province - of Savoy, a natural cheese cellar with almost two dozen - distinctive types of its very own, such as Fat cheese, also - called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a luscious half-dried - sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk cheeses; and - Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and Switzerland, - boasts two interesting variants:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1. <i>Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:</i> Made about - the same as Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then - melted, spices added and the cheese re-formed. It is also - called Spiced Fondue and sells for about two dollars a - pound. Named Fondue from being melted, though it's really - recooked,</p> - - <p>2. <i>Vacherin à la Main:</i> This is a curiosity - in cheeses, resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of - cow's milk, it is round, a foot in diameter and half a foot - high. It is salted and aged until the rind is hard and the - inside more runny than the ripest Camembert, so it can be - eaten with a spoon (like the cooked Fondue) as well as - spread on bread. The local name for it is <i>Tome de - Montagne</i>.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" - id="Page_93"></a> Here is a good assortment of Fondues:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vacherin-Fribourg - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 clove garlic, crushed<br /> - 2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons hot water</p> - - <p>This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic - in butter until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic - and reduce heat. Add the soft cheese and stir with silver - fork until smooth and velvety. Add the water in little - splashes, stirring constantly in one direction. Dunk! (In - this melted Swiss a little water takes the place of a lot - of wine.)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue Comtois</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made - with white wine. Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish - type will serve splendidly. Also use butter, grated - Gruyère, beaten eggs and that touch of garlic.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chives Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated Swiss cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 garlic clove, crushed<br /> - 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> - Salt<br /> - Freshly ground pepper<br /> - A pinch of nutmeg<br /> - ¼ cup kirsch</p> - - <p>Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer - rubbed with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add - wine and heat just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add - cheese-and-flour mix gradually, stirring always in one - direction. Salt <!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" - id="Page_94"></a>according to age and sharpness of - cheese; add plenty of freshly ground pepper and the - pinch of nutmeg.</p> - - <p>When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in - the kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to - dunking.</p> - - <p>Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change - for dunking purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating - with the absorbent bread, or hard rolls.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped<br /> - ½ teaspoon dried sweet basil<br /> - 1 clove garlic<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - 2 cups grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with - garlic, melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 - to 6 minutes, add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. - Then add cheese, half a cup at a time, and keep stirring - until everything is smooth.</p> - - <p>Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit.</p> - </div> - - <p>Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but - they're held together with the common ingredient, tomato.</p> - - <p>Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. - Stale bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Baked Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup tomato juice<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup grated sharp American cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon melted butter<br /> - Salt<br /> - 4 eggs, separated and well beaten</p> - - <p>Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until - melted, season with a little or no salt, depending on - saltiness of the <!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" - id="Page_95"></a> cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold - in the white and bake about 50 minutes in moderate - oven.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - BAKED FONDUES - </div> - - <p>Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a - sensation on these shores and is still in highest esteem among - epicures, the Fondue America took to its bosom was baked. The - original recipe came from the super-caseous province of Savoy - under the explicit title, <i>La Fondue au Fromage</i>.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue au Fromage</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, - yolks of eggs and Gruyère, in thin slices for a - change. Use red pepper instead of black, splash in a jigger - of kirsch but no white wine. Finally fold in the egg whites - and bake in a mold for 45 minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p>We adapted this to our national taste which had already - based the whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit - with stale ale or milk instead of white wine and - Worcestershire, mustard and hot peppers. Today we have come up - with this:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>100% American Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups scalded milk<br /> - 2 cups stale bread crumbs<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry English mustard<br /> - Salt<br /> - Dash of nutmeg<br /> - Dash of pepper<br /> - 2 cups American cheese (Cheddar)<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until - melted. Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a - smooth mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites - stiff, leaving them <!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" - id="Page_96"></a> slightly moist. Fold the whites into - the cool, custardy mix and bake in a buttered dish until - firm. (About 50 minutes in a moderate oven.)</p> - </div> - - <p>This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to - our way of thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take - the place of the wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our - bland cookery.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - OTHER FONDUES<br /> - PLAIN AND FANCY,<br /> - BAKED AND NOT - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Quickie Catsup Tummy - Fondiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp cheese, diced<br /> - 1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - ½ cup catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly - by constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or - fold in the catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on - Melba toast or rusks.</p> - </div> - - <p>This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a - cup of cocoa, for a change.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Rice - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup cooked rice<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs, separated and well beaten<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all - three</p> - - <p>Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in - cheese until melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, - season, fold in stiff egg whites. Serve hot on toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" - id="Page_97"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Corn and Cheese - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup bread crumbs<br /> - 1 large can creamed corn<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - ½ green pepper, chopped<br /> - 2 cups cottage cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 2 eggs, well beaten</p> - - <p>Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered - casserole set in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in - moderate oven, or until set.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Cheddar<br /> - ½ cup crumbled Roquefort<br /> - 1 cup pimento cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire</p> - - <p>Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and - creamy. Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream - or mayonnaise if too stiff.</p> - - <p>Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted - crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brick Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Brick cheese<br /> - ½ cup warm milk<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 2 eggs</p> - - <p>Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip - in the warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the - eggs, one at a time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls - for each egg to be beaten separately in cases like - this.</p> - - <p>Serve over hot toast or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" - id="Page_98"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Dunk Bowl</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp Cheddar cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - ⅔ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 1½ teaspoons Worcestershire</p> - - <p>Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with - the cream until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful - bowl for dunking in the original style of Savarin, although - this is a static imitation of the real thing.</p> - - <p>All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, - from celery stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut - from Bombay duck.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" - id="Page_99"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/099.gif" - width="450" - height="304" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Seven</i> - </div> - - <h2>Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins</h2> - - <p>There isn't much difference between Cheese Soufflés, - Puffs and Ramekins. The <i>English Encyclopedia of Practical - Cookery</i>, the oldest, biggest and best of such works in - English, lumps Cheese Puffs and Ramekins together, giving the - same recipes for both, although it treats each extensively - under its own name when not made with cheese.</p> - - <p>Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese - and bread crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff - again the principal factor in Soufflé, from the French - <i>souffler</i>, puff up).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" - id="Page_100"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Basic Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter or margarine<br /> - 4 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1¼ cups hot milk, scalded<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - ½ cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until - thick and smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the - cooking and slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat - and let cool somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a - light hand and an upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites - and when evenly mixed pour into a big, round baking dish. - (Some butter it and some don't.) To make sure the top will - be even when baked, run a spoon or knife around the - surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the dish, before - baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high and - beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the - Soufflé may fall. The baking takes up to an hour and - the egg whites shouldn't be beaten so stiff they are hard - to fold in and contain no air to expand and puff up the - dish.</p> - </div> - - <p>To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, - lemon juice, nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, - especially in England.</p> - - <p>While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a - close second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all - three of these together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in - the Ramekin recipes below.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small - modifications in the ingredients:</p> - - <p><!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" - id="Page_101"></a> 1 full cup of grated Parmesan<br /> - 1 extra egg in place of the ½ cup of Cheddar - cheese<br /> - A little more butter<br /> - Black pepper, not cayenne</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight - changes:</p> - - <p>1¼ cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the - Cheddar cheese<br /> - Nutmeg in place of the cayenne</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan-Swiss - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these little - differences:</p> - - <p>½ cup grated Swiss cheese, and ½ cup - grated Parmesan in place<br /> - of the Cheddar cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for - seasoning.</p> - </div> - - <p>Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper - climax to a grand dinner.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Corn - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make as Basic Soufflé, substituting for the - scalded milk 1 cup of sieved and strained juice from - cream-style canned corn.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Spinach - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sauté 1½ cups of finely chopped, drained - spinach in butter with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and - then whip it until light and fluffy. Mix well into the - white sauce of the Basic Soufflé before adding the - cheese and following the rest of the recipe.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Tomato - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" - id="Page_102"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Sea-food - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Add 1½ cups finely chopped or ground lobster, - crab, shrimp, other sea food or mixture thereof, with any - preferred seasoning added.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Mushroom - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups grated sharp Cheddar<br /> - 1 cup cream of mushroom soup<br /> - Paprika, to taste<br /> - Salt<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon<br /> - 2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds</p> - - <p>Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese - gradually and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken - the sauce with egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and - finally fold in the whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds - and bake until golden brown and puffed high (about 1 - hour).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Potato - Soufflé</b> (Potato Puff)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>6 potatoes<br /> - 2 onions<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter or margarine<br /> - 1 cup hot milk<br /> - ¾ cup grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of pepper<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - ¼ cup grated Cheddar cheese</p> - - <p>Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put - through a ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except - the egg whites and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix - thoroughly and pour into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle - the ¼ cup of Cheddar on - <!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" - id="Page_103"></a> top and bake in moderate oven about - ½ hour, until golden-brown and well puffed. Serve - instantly.</p> - - <p>Variations of this popular Soufflé leave out the - onion and simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed - potatoes. Sometimes 1 tablespoon of catsup and another of - minced parsley is added to the mixture. Or onion juice - alone, to take the place of the cooked onions—about a - tablespoon, full or scant.</p> - </div> - - <p>The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or - Soufflé, are inclined to make it extra peppery, as they - do most of their Cheese Soufflés, with not only "a dust - of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be stood on the - face of a sixpence."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fritter - Soufflés</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crêpes - suzette.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - PUFFS - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Swiss<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan<br /> - 1 cup cream cheese<br /> - 5 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten - eggs, splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly - incorporated, put in ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort - of little mold of any shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 - minutes, until richly browned.</p> - </div> - - <p>Such miniature Soufflés serve as liaison officers for - this entire section, since they are baked in ramekins, or - ramequins, from the French word for the small baking dish that - holds only one portion. These may be paper boxes, usually - round, earthenware, <!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" - id="Page_104"></a>china, Pyrex, of any attractive shape in - which to bake or serve the Puffs.</p> - - <p>More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without - ramekin dishes, as follows:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fried Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - Salt<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and - seasonings. When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, - roll in crumbs and fry.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound genuine French Roquefort<br /> - 1 egg white, beaten stiff<br /> - 8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds</p> - - <p>Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on - crackers and bake 15 minutes in slow oven.</p> - </div> - - <p>The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes - may give the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, - but such is not the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and - left moist and glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad - droop to them that shows there is still room for the air to - expand and puff things up in cooking.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with - equal parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a - score <!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" - id="Page_105"></a>or more of crackers in a roomy pan and - broil a couple of minutes till they puff up - golden-brown.</p> - - <p>Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, - second best, from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and - Italian settlers get together on excellent Parmesan and - Romano. Never buy Parmesan already grated; it quickly loses - its flavor.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Breakfast Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup flour<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - ¼ cup finely grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt</p> - - <p>Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill - ramekins or cups half full; then bake in quick oven until - they are puffing over the top and golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Fondue Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 stale roll<br /> - ½ cup boiling hot milk<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - 4 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with - cheese and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the - egg whites and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and - slowly bake until puffed up and golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>New England Cheese - Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon baking powder<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon Hungarian paprika<br /> - ¼ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry<br /> - <!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" - id="Page_106"></a></p> - - <p>Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and - stir in. Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold - in the egg whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big - spoon into hot deep fat and cook until well browned.</p> - - <p>Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also - used, and either of these makes a snappier puff, especially - tasty when served with soup.</p> - - <p>A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard</p> - - <p>Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from - heat and add milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well - blended, then pour into custard cups, ramekins or any other - individual baking dishes that are attractive enough to - serve the puffs in.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - </div> - - <p>Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be - collected like snuff bottles.</p> - - <p>Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the - individual dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese - Puff, this is also <i>au gratin</i> when topped with both - cheese and browned bread crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's - license the name is also applied to any kind of cake containing - cheese and cooked in the identifying one-portion ramekin. It is - used chiefly in the plural, however, together with the name of - the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken Ramekins" and:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins I</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, melted<br /> - ⅛ pound grated cheese<br /> - <!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" - id="Page_107"></a></p> - - <p>Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 - minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins II</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - ½ teaspoon each, salt and pepper<br /> - ¾ cup bread crumbs<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - 1½ cups milk</p> - - <p>Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs - into the milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in - buttered ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. - Serve piping hot, for like Soufflés and all - associated Puffs, the hot air will puff out of them - quickly; then they will sink and be inedible.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES,<br /> - STILL GOING STRONG - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins III</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Grate ½ pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a - dozen small paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing - paper like Soufflé cases. Put a saucepan containing - ½ pint of water over the fire, add 2 tablespoons of - butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 heaping - tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the - grated cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, - and let it partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks - from the whites of three eggs, and beat them until the - yolks foam and the whites make a stiff froth. Put the - mixture at once into the buttered paper cases, only - half-filling them (since they rise very high while being - baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a moderate - oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are done, - put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and - still is, Gruyère. But because the early English also - adopted Italian Parmesan, <!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" - id="Page_108"></a> that followed as a close second, and - remains there today.</p> - - <p>Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this - second oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and - Cheshire "'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. - Gloucester has been called "a glorified Cheshire" and the - latter has long been known as a peculiarly rich and colorful - elder brother of Cheddar, described in Kenelme Digby's - <i>Closet Open'd</i> as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted - cheese."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins IV</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Scrape fine ¼ pound of Gloucester cheese and - ¼ pound of Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese - in a mortar with the yolks of 4 eggs, ¼ pound of - fresh butter, and the crumbs of a French roll boiled in - cream until soft. When all this is well mixed and pounded - to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. Should the - paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may be - added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served - very hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not - easily come by even in London today, it would be hard to - reproduce this in the States. So the best we can suggest is to - use half-and-half of two of our own great Cheddars, say - half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or half-Tillamook and - half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about it, - contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three - different kinds put together make Puffs all the more - perfect.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ramequins à la - Parisienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups milk<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - 1 ounce salt butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - Coarsely ground pepper<br /> - An atom of nutmeg<br /> - A <i>soupçon</i> of garlic<br /> - A light touch of powdered sugar<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - <!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" - id="Page_109"></a></p> - - <p>Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the - flour and stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and - cream mixture a little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, - remove from heat and stir in cheese, seasonings and the - yolks of all 8 eggs, well beaten, and the whites of 2 even - better beaten. When well mixed, fold in the remaining egg - whites, stiffly beaten, until you have a batter as smooth - and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of paper, - porcelain or earthenware, filling each about ⅔ full - to allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow - oven until golden-brown (or a little less than 20 - minutes).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Le Ramequin - Morézien</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comté is - described as "a porridge of water, butter, seasoning, - chopped garlic and toast; thickened with minced - Gruyère and served very hot."</p> - </div> - - <p>Several French provinces are known for distinctive - individual Puffs usually served in the dainty fluted forms they - are cooked in. In Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there - are the simply named <i>Les Ramequins</i>, made of flour, - Gruyère and eggs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss-Roquefort - Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ pound Swiss cheese<br /> - ¼ pound Roquefort cheese<br /> - ½ pound butter<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - 4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed<br /> - ½ cup cream</p> - - <p>The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft - insides of the rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. - The egg whites are folded in last, as always, the batter - poured into ramekins part full and baked to a golden-brown. - Then they are served instantaneously, lest they fall.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" - id="Page_110"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Puff Paste Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled - with fine tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as - Parmesan with Gruyère and/or Swiss Sapsago for a - piquant change, but in lesser quantity than the other - cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the favorite - for these.</p> - - <p>Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with - more cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in - small fancy shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. - Brushing with egg yolk before baking makes these Ramekins - shine.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Frying Pan Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then - mix with ½ pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 - eggs, beaten stiff but not dry. Cover frying pan with - buttered papers, put slices of bread on this and cover with - the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 minutes, take it off and - brown it with a salamander.</p> - </div> - - <p>There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One - holds that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; - the other that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts - have special cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, - to identify their creations, whether they be burned on the - skins of Welsh Rabbits or Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering - with an iron that has a gay, carnivalesque design can make a - sort of harlequin Ramekin.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Casserole Ramekin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a - deep casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and - Swiss cheese, with the cheese slices a bit bigger all - around. Beat 2 eggs with 2 cups of milk, season with salt - and—of all things—nutmeg! Proceed to bake like - individual Ramekins.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 111 --><a name="Page_111" - id="Page_111"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/111.gif" - width="450" - height="397" - alt="" - title="" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Eight</i> - </div> - - <h2>Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc.</h2> - - <p>No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always - appease them with pizza.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pizza—The Tomato Pie of - Sicily</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>DOUGH</p> - - <p>1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water<br /> - 2 cups sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 2 tablespoons olive oil</p> - - <p>Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a - ball, cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place - until twice the size.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 112 --><a name="Page_112" - id="Page_112"></a>TOMATO PASTE</p> - - <p>3 tablespoons olive oil<br /> - 2 large onions, sliced thin<br /> - 1 can Italian tomato paste<br /> - 8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small<br /> - ½ teaspoon oregano<br /> - Salt<br /> - Crushed chili pepper<br /> - 2½ cups water</p>> - - <p>In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in - tomato paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour - water over and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add - anchovies when sauce is done.</p> - - <p>CHEESE</p> - - <p>½ cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or - Pecorino, depending on your pocketbook</p> - - <p>Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or - reasonable substitute, and grease well before spreading the - well-raised dough ½ to ¾ inch thick. Poke - your finger tips haphazardly into the dough to make marks - that will catch the sauce when you pour it on generously. - Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese and bake in hot - oven ½ hour, then ¼ hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any - other pie and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p>The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to - regular apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most - popular.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /><b>Miniature Pizzas</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with - garlic or onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with - tomato sauce and a slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, - oregano and grated Parmesan, and heat 8 minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 113 --><a name="Page_113" - id="Page_113"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian-Swiss - Scallopini</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets<br /> - ½ cup flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed<br /> - 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water<br /> - Butter<br /> - Salt<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with - cheese, quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes - till tender. Dust with paprika and salt.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or - Stuffed Noodles</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles<br /> - 1½ cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat<br /> - ½ pound Ricotta or cottage cheese<br /> - 1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar<br /> - ¼ pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper, preferably crushed red pods<br /> - A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable - substitute</p> - - <p>Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly - boiling salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. - Pour ½ cup of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, - cover with about ½ of the noodles, sprinkle with - grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a layer of Mozzarella - and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this fashion, alternating - layers and seasoning each, ending with a final spread of - sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in moderate oven, - about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, with - canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Little Hats, - Cappelletti</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, - contrived out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little - Italy macaroni shop. <!-- Page 114 --><a name="Page_114" - id="Page_114"></a> These may be stuffed sensationally in - four different flavors with only two cheeses.</p> - - <p>Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. - Mince each very fine and divide in half, to make four - mixtures in equal amounts. Season these with salt, pepper - and nutmeg and a binding of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg - white.</p> - - <p>With these meat mixtures you can make four - different-flavored fillings:</p> - - <p>Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and - Ricotta Chicken and Ricotta</p> - - <p>Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the - same number of each different kind. Pinch edges tight - together to keep the stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 - minutes in chicken broth (or salted water, if you - must).</p> - - <p>Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and - shape of ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot - plates, with plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable - substitute. If we count this final seasoning as an - ingredient, this makes three cheeses, so that each of half - a dozen taste buds can be getting individual sensations - without letting the others know what it's doing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dauphiny Ravioli</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of - pastry follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat - cheese and Gruyère melted with butter and minced - parsley and boiled in chicken broth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritters</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ cup flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons sugar<br /> - ¼ pound fresh Ricotta<br /> - 2 eggs, beaten<br /> - ½ cup shredded Mozzarella<br /> - Rind of ½ lemon, grated<br /> - 3 tablespoons brandy<br /> - Salt<br /> - <!-- Page 115 --><a name="Page_115" - id="Page_115"></a></p> - - <p>Stir and mix well together in the order given and let - stand 1 hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold - its shape while cooking.</p> - - <p>Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the - bowl of a long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in - boiling hot oil. Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at - once with powdered sugar.</p> - - <p>To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several - contrasting cheeses in this batter.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Asparagus and - Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one - and the same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation - layer of grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a - layer of tender parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a - layer of grated Gruyère with a bit of butter, and - another of asparagus. From here you can go as far as you - like with varied layers of melting cheeses alternating with - asparagus, until you come to the top, where you add two - more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered Parmesan with - Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Garlic on Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by - removing skins and frying out the fierce pungence in - smoking olive oil. They skip in the hot pan like Mexican - jumping beans. Toast one side of a thickish slice of bread, - put this side down on a grilling pan, cover it with a slice - of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyère, of about - the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into - the cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt - lightly and dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob - Brown in Merle Armitage's collection <i>Fit for a - King</i>.)</p> - </div> - - <p>Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them - toes. It was cheese and garlic together that inspired - Shakespeare to Hotspur's declaration in <i>King Henry - IV</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 116 --> - <a name="Page_116" - id="Page_116"></a> <span>I had rather - live<br /></span> <span>With cheese and garlic in - a windmill, far,<br /></span> <span>Than feed on - cates and have him talk to me<br /></span> - <span>In any summer-house in - Christendom.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Some people can take a mere <i>soupçon</i> of the - stuff, while others can down it by the soup spoon, so we feel - it necessary in reprinting our recipe to point to the warning - of another early English writer: "Garlic is very dangerous to - young children, fine women and hot young men."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blintzes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This snow white member of the crêpes suzette - sorority is the most popular deb in New York's fancy cheese - dishes set. Almost unknown here a decade or two ago, it has - joined blinis, kreplach and cheeseburgers as a quick and - sustaining lunch for office workers.</p> - - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 1 cup water<br /> - 1 cup sifted flour<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cooking oil<br /> - ½ pound cottage cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 cups sour cream</p> - - <p>Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour - and salt to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and - make little pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. - Cook the cakes over low heat and on one side only. Slide - each cake off on a white cloth, with the cooked side down. - While these are cooling make the blintz-filling by beating - together the second egg, cottage cheese and butter. Spread - each pancake thickly with the mixture and roll or make into - little pockets or envelopes with the end tucked in to hold - the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and serve at - once with sufficient sour cream to smother them.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vatroushki</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of - blinis and blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be - made was <!-- Page 117 --><a name="Page_117" - id="Page_117"></a> vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes - above. The chief difference is that rounds of puff paste - dough are used instead of the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of - sugar is added to the cottage cheese filling, and the - sour cream, ½ cup, is mixed into this instead of - being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix - are made by pinching the edges of the dough together. - The tops are brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk - oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cottage Cheese - Pancakes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup prepared pancake<br /> - 4 tablespoons top milk or light cream<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 4 eggs, well beaten<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> - 2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer</p> - - <p>Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Waffles</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups prepared waffle flour<br /> - 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ cup melted butter<br /> - ¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar<br /> - 3 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 - ingredients and fold in egg whites last.</p> - </div> - - <p>Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to - heat quickly and serve.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Napkin Dumpling</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound cottage cheese<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, softened<br /> - 3 eggs, beaten<br /> - ¾ cup Farina<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - Cinnamon and brown sugar</p> - - <p>Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and - sugar) to form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold - water and tie <!-- Page 118 --><a name="Page_118" - id="Page_118"></a>the ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to - 50 minutes in salted boiling water, remove from napkin, - sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown sugar, and serve. - This is on the style of Hungarian potato and other - succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as - a meal in itself.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - BUTTER AND CHEESE - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Where fish is scant<br /></span> <span>And fruit - of trees,<br /></span> <span>Supply that - want<br /></span> <span>With butter and - cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Thomas Tusser in<br /></span> - <span class="auth"><i>The Last Remedy</i><br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for - cheese butter. Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or - less matches Turkey's Durak, of which butter is an - indispensable ingredient, and French Cancoillote is based on - sour milk simmered with butter.</p> - - <p>The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the - butter substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of - thought about whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or - not, for in Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as - part of the process of making. The Arabs press curds and butter - together to store in vats, and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy - Butter.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - BUTTERMILK CHEESE - </div> - - <p>The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old - Hindu proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without - buttermilk he dies."</p> - - <p>Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of - <!-- Page 119 --><a name="Page_119" - id="Page_119"></a>dairy manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese - came well after plain milk cheese, even after whey cheese. - It is very tasty, and a natural with potato salad. The curd - is salted after draining and sold in small parchment - packages.</p> - - <p>German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. - The Danes make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta - Romano, for a novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - COTTAGE CHEESE - </div> - - <p>In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and - smearcase. It is the easiest and quickest to make of all - cheeses, by simply letting milk sour, or adding buttermilk to - curdle it, then stand a while on the back of the kitchen stove, - since it is homemade as a rule. It is drained in a bag of - cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually salted.</p> - - <p>The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true - recipes from olde England, and both are still in use and good - repute:</p> - - <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 1</i></p> - - <p>Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it - will immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour - a little cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up - attractively for serving.</p> - - <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 2</i></p> - - <p>A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole - milk and buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling - point. Pour into a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then - remove, salt to taste and add a bit of butter or cream to make - a smooth, creamy consistency, and pat into balls the size of a - Seville orange.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 120 --><a name="Page_120" - id="Page_120"></a></p> - - <div class="cats"> - CREAM CHEESE - </div> - - <p>In England there are three distinct manners of making cream - cheese:</p> - - <ol> - <li>Fresh milk strained and lightly drained.</li> - - <li>Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like - Devonshire.</li> - - <li>Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, - packaged<br /> - in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, - as<br /> - in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese.</li> - </ol> - - <p>American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being - named from then: region or established brands owned by - Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, Shefford, etc.</p> - - <p>Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to - make than cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it - is not a cheese but the dried curd of milk and is often called - virginal. Fresh milk is simply strained through muslin in a - perforated box through which the whey and extra moisture drains - away for three or four days, leaving a residue as firm as fresh - butter.</p> - - <p>In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a - popular assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these - ingredients and names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, - Pimiento, Olive and Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, - Strawberry, and Triple Decker of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in - layers.</p> - - <p>In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. - Finally, to come to France, la Foncée or Fromage de Pau, - a cream also known around the world as Crême d'Isigny, - Double Crême, Fromage à la Crême de Gien, - Pots de Crême St. Gervais, etc. etc.</p> - - <p>The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with - Chevretons du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that - adds <i>à la crême</i> to their already glorified - names.</p> - - <p>The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more - of a dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese.</p> - - <p>We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too - sweet ones. Attempts at this have been made, both here and in - England; <!-- Page 121 --><a name="Page_121" - id="Page_121"></a>Scottish Caledonian cream came closest. We - have frozen cheese with fruit, to be sure, but no true - cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses seem - especially suitable.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The farmer's daughter hath soft brown - hair<br /></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese)<br /></span> <span>And I met with a ballad I - can't say where,<br /></span> <span>That wholly - consisted of lines like these,<br /></span> - <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese.)<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the - ingredients suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In - England. From that year Kettner in his <i>Book of the Table</i> - quotes this recipe:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well - together; and make small coffins (that is, cases of - pastry), and do it (put it) therein; and do (put) thereto - sugar and good powders. Or take good fat cheese and eggs - and make them of divers colours, green, red or yellow, and - bake them or serve them forth.</p> - </div> - - <p>This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of - honor that caused Kettner to wax poetic with:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a - countless number of these maids—light and airy as the - "airy, fairy Lilian." What more can the finest poetry - achieve in quickening the things of earth into tokens and - foretastes of heaven, with glimpses of higher life and - ethereal worlds.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESECAKES - </div> - - <p><i>Coronation Cheese Cake</i></p> - - <p>The <i>Oxford Dictionary</i> defines cheese cake as a - "tartlet filled with sweet curds, etc." This shows that the - cheese is the main thing, and the and-so-forth just a matter of - taste. We are delighted to record that the Lord Mayor of London - picked traditional cheese tarts, the maids of honor mentioned - earlier in this section, as the Coronation dessert with which - to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city luncheon in - Guildhall This is most <!-- Page 122 --> - <a name="Page_122" - id="Page_122"></a>fitting, since these tarts were named - after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen - Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a - thousand pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual - cheese cake ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of - cheese, but what made the subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, - lemon, orange-flower water, or all four?</p> - - <p>More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese - cake, the Greeks had a word for it—several in fact: - Apician Cheese Cake, Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. - Then the Romans took it over and we read from an epistle of the - period:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have - been arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese - cakes dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such - as that of Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.)</p> - </div> - - <p>Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was - named for it before Christ was born, at a time when cheese - cakes were widely known as "dainty food for mortal man."</p> - - <p>Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of - which the ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most - popular in New York. But buyers delight in every sort, - including the one hundred percent American type called cheese - pies.</p> - - <p>Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese - cakes and cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are - made piquant with pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of - ours made from popcorn-style pot cheese put through a - sieve:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pineapple Cheese Cake</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ pounds sieved pot cheese<br /> - 1-inch piece vanilla bean<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, melted<br /> - ½ small box graham crackers, crushed fine<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 2 cups sugar<br /> - 1 small can crushed pineapple, drained<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - ⅓ cup flour<br /> - <!-- Page 123 --><a name="Page_123" - id="Page_123"></a></p> - - <p>In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers - and pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square - Pyrex pan and put in the graham-cracker dust to make,a - crust. Cover this evenly with the pineapple and pour in the - cheese-custard mixture. Bake I hour in a "quiet" oven, as - the English used to say for a moderate one, and when done - set aside for 12 hours before eating.</p> - </div> - - <p>Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better - buy your cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones - cost a dime a bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American - ones in Manhattan. Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at - about five dollars a cake. Some are fruited with cherries or - strawberries.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Custard</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 eggs, slightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - A dash of pepper or paprika<br /> - 3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - A few drops of onion juice, if desired<br /> - 4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported)</p> - - <p>Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and - bake until brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Open-faced Cheese Pie</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 eggs<br /> - 1 cup sugar<br /> - 2 pounds soft smearcase</p> - - <p>Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake - without any upper crust.</p> - </div> - - <p><b>The Apple-pie Affinity</b></p> - - <p>Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New - England, even as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has - cheese <!-- Page 124 --><a name="Page_124" - id="Page_124"></a>for a sidekick, according to law. Pioneer - hot pies were baked in brick ovens and flavored with nutmeg, - cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was Cheddar, but - today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are common, - such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, - pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hablé, and - even a green dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie.</p> - - <p>Apple pie <i>au gratin</i>, thickly grated over with - Parmesan, Caciocavallo or Sapsago, is something special when - served with black coffee. Cider, too, or applejack, is a - natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple with its - cheese.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie Adorned</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing - cream cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of - double cream beaten thick and salted a little. Put the - mixture in a pastry tube and decorate top of pie in - fanciful fashion.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie á la - Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any - fruit or berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 - minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-crusty Apple - Pie</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and - sprinkle with sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and - bake golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Flan au Fromage</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, - simply mix coarsely grated Gruyère with beaten egg, - fill the tart cases and bake.</p> - - <p>For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, - work in tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 - parts of flour.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 125 --><a name="Page_125" - id="Page_125"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Christmas Cake - Sandwiches</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A traditional Christmas carol begs for:</p> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>A little bit of spice cake<br /></span> <span>A - little bit of cheese,<br /></span> <span>A glass of - cold water,<br /></span> <span>A penny, if you - please.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake - in slices and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese - between.</p> - - <p>To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, - serve apple pie with cheese and applejack.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Angelic Camembert</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert, imported<br /> - 1 cup Anjou dry white wine<br /> - ½ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> - 2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs</p> - - <p>Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and - when its creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, - round covered dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no - bouquet or aroma can possibly escape, and let stand - overnight.</p> - - <p>When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, - dry the cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an - angelic paste. Reshape in original Camembert form, dust - thickly with the crumbs and there you are.</p> - </div> - - <p>Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since - some of them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken - straight.</p> - - <p>Although A. W. Fulton's observation in <i>For Men Only</i> - is going out of date, it is none the less amusing:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only - met one woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her - seemed to me so deserving of reward that I did not hesitate - to acquire her hand in marriage.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 126 --><a name="Page_126" - id="Page_126"></a> Another writer has said that "only - gourmets among women seem to like cheese, except farm women - and foreigners." The association between gourmets and farm - women is borne out by the following urgent plea from early - Italian landowners:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ai contadini non far sapere</i><br /></span> - <span><i>Quanta è buono it cacio con le - pere</i>.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Don't let the peasants know<br /></span> - <span>How good are cheese and pears.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of - Taleggio, Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a - good dinner, with a juicy Lombardy pear or its American - equivalent, a Bartlett, let us say.</p> - - <p>This celestial association of cheese and pears is further - accented by the French:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Entre la poire et le fromage</i><br /></span> - <span>Between the pear and the cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, - in accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke - in his <i>Paroemiologia</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>After cheese comes nothing.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>But in his <i>Epigrams</i> Ben Jonson serves them - together.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will - be.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>That brings us back to cheese and pippins:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I will make an end of my dinner; - there's<br /></span> <span>pippins and cheese to - come.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Shakespeare's <i>Merry Wives of - Windsor</i><br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>When should the cheese be served? In England it is served - before or after the fruit, with or without the port.</p> - - <p>Following <i>The Book of Keruynge</i> in modern spelling we - note when it was published in 1431 the proper thing "after - meat" was "pears, nuts, strawberries, whortleberries (American - huckle<!-- Page 127 --> - <a name="Page_127" - id="Page_127"></a>berries) and hard cheese." In modern - practice we serve some suitable cheese like Camembert - directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced - banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese - dessert tray to match the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy - down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, are figs, both fresh and - preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, kumquats, avocados, - fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, served in the - scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or pear - and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. - Pots of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your - own making being the best.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Champagned Roquefort or - Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound mellow Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> - A dash cayenne<br /> - ¾ cup champagne</p> - - <p>With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth - paste, moistening with champagne as you go along, using a - little more or less champagne according to consistency - desired. Serve with the demitasse and cognac, offering, - besides crackers, gilt gingerbread in the style of Holland - Dutch cheese tasters, or just plain bread.</p> - </div> - - <p>After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are:</p> - - <p>FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, - Brie, Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, - apple brandy)</p> - - <p>FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar</p> - - <p>FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly</p> - - <p>FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese</p> - - <p>FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval</p> - - <p><!-- Page 128 --><a name="Page_128" - id="Page_128"></a> FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss - Gruyère</p> - - <p>FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse</p> - - <p>FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost</p> - - <p>FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda</p> - - <p>FROM ENGLAND: Stilton</p> - - <p>FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 129 --><a name="Page_129" - id="Page_129"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/129.gif" - width="450" - height="308" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Nine</i> - </div> - - <h2>Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces</h2> - - <p>He who says <i>au gratin</i> says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the - English poet, saluted it two centuries ago with:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses - grow.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet - Parmesan, "as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit - in Sir W. Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of - September, more than a century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his - <i>Diary of a Country Parson</i> wrote:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and - he sent me back another large piece of fine Parmesan - cheese. It was very kind of him.</p> - </div> - - <p>The second most popular cheese for <i>au gratin</i> is - Italian Romano, and, for an entirely different flavor, Swiss - Sapsago. The <!-- Page 130 --><a name="Page_130" - id="Page_130"></a>French, who gave us this cookery term, use - it in its original meaning for any dish with a browned - topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In - America we think of <i>au gratin</i> as grated cheese only, - although Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed - with butter or cheese; as, potatoes <i>au gratin</i>." So - let us begin with that.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Potatoes au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups diced cooked potatoes<br /> - 2 tablespoons grated onion<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 egg<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - More grated cheese for covering</p> - - <p>In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, - sprinkle with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a - thin layer of cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions - and butter. Stir milk, egg, salt and pepper together and - pour it on the mixture. Top everything with plenty of - grated cheese to make it authentically American <i>au - gratin</i>. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about - ½ hour.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggs au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour - over any desired number of eggs broken into a buttered - baking dish. Begin by using half of the sauce and - sprinkling on a lot of grated cheese. After the eggs are - in, pour on the rest of the sauce, cover it with grated - cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of butter, and cook - until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomatoes au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato - and sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, - season <!-- Page 131 --><a name="Page_131" - id="Page_131"></a> with salt, pepper and dots of butter, - add another layer of tomato slices, season as before and - continue this, alternating with cheese, until pan is - full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, cheese and - butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Soup au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 or 5 onions, sliced<br /> - 4 or 5 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 quart stock or canned consommé<br /> - 1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes<br /> - Rounds of toasted French bread<br /> - 1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese</p> - - <p>Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until - light golden, and pour the stock over. When heated put in a - larger casserole, add the bouillon, season to taste and - heat to boiling point. Let simmer 15 minutes and serve in - deep well-heated soup plates, the bottoms covered with - rounds of toasted French bread which have been heaped with - freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the broiler. More - cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as desired.</p> - </div> - - <p>At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of - champagne are often added to the bouillon.</p> - - <p>In the famed onion soup <i>au gratin</i> at Les Halles in - Paris, grated Gruyère is used in place of Parmesan. They - are interchangeable in this recipe.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is - made by heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and - adding finely grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French - bread toasted and topped with more cheese and broiled - golden makes the best base to pour this over, as is done - with the French onion soup above.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 132 --><a name="Page_132" - id="Page_132"></a> The same cheese toasts are the basis - of a simple milk-cheese soup, with heated milk poured - over and a seasoning of salt, pepper, chopped chives, or - a dash of nutmeg.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chicken Cheese Soup</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken - bouillon cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed - cream of chicken soup. Stir in ¼ cup grated American - Cheddar cheese and season with salt, pepper, and plenty of - paprika until cheese melts.</p> - - <p>Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese - to lima bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or - plain cheese soup with rice.</p> - </div> - - <p>Imported French <i>marmites</i> are <i>de rigueur</i> for a - real onion soup <i>au gratin</i>, and an imported Parmesan - grinder might be used for freshly ground cheese. In preparing, - it is well to remember that they are basically only melted - cheese, melted from the top down.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESE SALADS - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is</span> - <span>resting and in no hurry. He eats the</span> - <span>salad to prepare himself for the cheese.</span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Henri Charpentier,</span> - <span class="auth"><i>Life & la Henri</i>.</span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Green Cheese Salad - Julienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of - crisp lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone - cheese cut in thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 - hours in French dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue - cheese and toss everything thoroughly, with plenty of - French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 133 --><a name="Page_133" - id="Page_133"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with - shredded American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in - French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Nut Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats - and enough mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little - balls and serve with fruit salads, dusting lightly with - finely grated Sapsago.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brie or Camembert - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie - or Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce - drenched with French dressing and scatter shredded almonds - over. (Cream cheese will do in a pinch. If the Camembert - isn't creamy enough, mash it with some sweet cream.)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Mold</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ cup cream cheese<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - ½ cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled<br /> - 2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into<br /> - ½ cup boiling water<br /> - Juice of 1 lemon<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups cream, beaten stiff<br /> - ½ cup minced chives</p> - - <p>Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with - lemon, salt and pepper and stir into cheese with the - whipped cream. Add chives last Put in ring mold or any mold - you fancy, chill well and slice at table to serve on - lettuce with a little mayonnaise, or plain.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 134 --><a name="Page_134" - id="Page_134"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Dice ½ pound of cheese into ½-inch cubes. - Slice one onion very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash - with German mustard, olive oil, wine vinegar, - Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and grind in plenty of - black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a wooden spoon so - you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is drenched - with the dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rosie's Swiss Breakfast - Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <p>Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished - specially by males on the morning after. We quote the original - recipe brought over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the - writers' and artists' colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her - brother Emil's White House Inn:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported - Emmentaler into half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported - French olive oil, German mustard and Swiss white wine - vinegar with salt and freshly ground pepper in a deep soup - plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper sauce scattered - in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes with a - light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising.</p> - - <p>The salad was ready to eat only when each and every - tiny, shiny cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been - washed, oiled and polished with the soothing mixture.</p> - - <p>"Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine - Breakfast Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It - is the best cure in the world for the worst hangover."</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gorgonzola and Banana - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. - Sprinkle with lemon juice and spread with creamy - Gorgonzola. Sluice with French dressing made with lemon - juice in place of vinegar, to help bring out the natural - banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 135 --><a name="Page_135" - id="Page_135"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Pea Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cube ½ pound of American Cheddar and mix with a - can of peas, 1 cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, - ½ cup of sour cream, and 2 tablespoons each of - minced pimientos and sweet pickles. Serve in lettuce cups - with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped radishes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple and Cheese - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup chopped pecans<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - Apples, sliced ½-inch thick<br /> - Lettuce leaves<br /> - Creamy salad dressing</p> - - <p>Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple - slices standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy - salad dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Cheese Salad - Dressing</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American - favorite of Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed - with French dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar - and kept in the refrigerator to shake up on occasion and - toss over lettuce or other salads.</p> - </div> - - <p>Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, - complete with the picture of the sheep in red, and <i>garanti - véritable</i>, the dressing is often ruined by bad - vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all things). When bottled to - sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous spice, oils and mustard - flour are used where nothing more is necessary than the - manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good - vinegar—white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent - amateurs must have their splash of Worcestershire sauce or - lemon juice with salt and pepper. This Roquefort dressing is - good on all green salads, but on endive it's something - special.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 136 --><a name="Page_136" - id="Page_136"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sauce Mornay</b></p> - - <p>Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the - greatest culinary achievement in cheese."</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a - white sauce (the French Sauce Béchamel) and add - grated Parmesan to your liking, stirring it in until melted - and the sauce is creamy. This can be snapped up with - cayenne or minced parsley, and when used with fish a little - of the cooking broth is added.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Cheese Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white - sauce</p> - - <p>This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or - hard-cooked eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 - parts of cheese to 4 of white sauce, it is delicious on - boiled cauliflower, baked potatoes, macaroni and crackers - soaked in milk.</p> - - <p>The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter - with the flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg - yolk in with the cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes:</p> - - <p><i>Thin</i>: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty - milk toast, sometimes spiced with curry.</p> - - <p><i>Medium</i>: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in - milk.</p> - - <p><i>Thick</i>: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured - generously over bread toasted on one side only, with the - untoasted side up, to let the sauce sink in.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parsleyed Cheese - Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven - the cabbage family—hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage - and Brussels sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled - over.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 137 --><a name="Page_137" - id="Page_137"></a></p> - - <div class="cats"> - CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - </div> - - <p>Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a - bounteous cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not - indispensable, recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or - overlooked or crowded out of the main sections devoted to the - classic Fondues, Rabbits, Soufflés, etc.</p> - - <p><br /> - <i>Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable - Stalks</i></p> - - <p>Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by - pressing through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with - any seasoning or relish.</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>SUGGESTIONS:</p> - - <p>Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or - all three, with or without a touch of Worcestershire.</p> - - <p>Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce.</p> - - <p>Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, - minced capers, pickles, or minced ham.</p> - - <p>Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for - your favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. - This last is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese - creamed with sweet butter.</p> - - <p>All canapé butters are ideally suited to stuffing - stalks. Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed.</p> - - <p>A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the - leafy tops off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or - anything similarly suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but - keep them in order, to reassemble in the head after each is - stuffed with a different mixture, using any of the above, - or a tangy mix of your own concoction.</p> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 138 --><a name="Page_138" - id="Page_138"></a> - - <p>After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby - center ones, press them together in the form of the - original head, tie tight, and chill. When ready, slice in - rolls about 8-inch thick and arrange as a salad on a bed of - water cress or lettuce, moistened with French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cold Dunking</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be - had by moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or - lemon in a dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently - liquefied, it is liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, - chives, onions, pimiento and/or other relish. Then a couple - of tins of anchovies are macerated and stirred in, oil and - all.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Charlotte</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted - slices of bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet - butter with 2 eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of - grated cheese. Bake until golden brown in slow oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Straws</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, - fold and roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese - each time. Chill dough in refrigerator and cut in - straw-size strips. Stiffly salt a beaten egg yolk and glaze - with that to give a salty taste. Bake for several minutes - until crisp.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Supa Shetgia</b> - <a name="FNanchor_B_2" - id="FNanchor_B_2"></a> <a href="#Footnote_B_2" - class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and - little known in this country. One of its seasonings is - nutmeg and until one has used it in cheese dishes, it is - hard to describe how perfectly - <!-- Page 139 --><a name="Page_139" - id="Page_139"></a> it gives that extra something. The - recipe, as given, is for each plate, but there is no - reason why the old-fashioned tureen could not be used - and the quantities simply increased</i>.</p> - - <p>Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into - a soup plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or - shredded Swiss cheese. Place another slice of bread on top - of this and pour over it some boiling milk. Cover the plate - and let it stand for several minutes. Season with salt, - pepper and nutmeg. Serve topped with browned, hot butter. - Use whole nutmeg and grate it freshly.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_B_2" - id="Footnote_B_2"></a> - <a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> - (from <i>Cheese Cookery</i>, by Helmut Ripperger)</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - </div> - - <p>Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their - dishes, from soups to spaghetti—and indeed any - vegetable—that a shaker of grated Parmesan, Romano or - reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, or is served - freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup might be - called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great - minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable - ingredient along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney - beans, celery, olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, - and so forth.</p> - - <p>Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential - in the Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's - served up as a separate tidbit with the meats.</p> - - <p>Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other - people, as the French are wont to use more wine in cooking.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pfeffernüsse and - Caraway</b></p> - - <p>The gingery little "pepper nuts," <i>pfeffernüsse</i>, - imported from Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of - the best accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For - contrast try a dish of caraway.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 140 --><a name="Page_140" - id="Page_140"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Diablotins</b></p> - - <p>Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound - of grated cheese and browned in the oven is a French - contribution.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESE OMELETS - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Omelet</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has - just begun to cook, dust over it evenly ½ cup grated - Cheddar.<br /> - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland - omelet.<br /> - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one.<br /> - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what - might be called a Wild Omelet.<br /> - Cook as usual. Fold and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> - (mild)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cook as above, but use ¼ cup only of Parmesan, - grated fine, in place of the ½ cup Cheddar.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (full - flavored)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>As above, but use ½ cup Parmesan, finely grated, - as follows: Sift ¼ cup of the Parmesan into your egg - mixture at the beginning and dust on the second ¼ - cup evenly, just as the omelet begins to set.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>A Meal-in-One Omelet</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fry ½ dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while - frying a cup of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to - equal crispness. <!-- Page 141 --><a name="Page_141" - id="Page_141"></a>Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of - 3 eggs, beaten, and 1½ tablespoons of shredded - Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 tablespoon of - chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato and</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh - tomato and dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put - under broiler until cheese melts to a golden brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Omelet with Cheese - Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when - finished, cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white - sauce in which ¼ pound of shredded cheese has been - melted, and mixed well with ½ cup cooked, diced - celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced.</p> - </div> - - <p>The French use grated Gruyère for this with all sorts - of sauces, such as the <i>Savoyar de Savoie</i>, with potatoes, - chervil, tarragon and cream. A delicious appearance and added - flavor can be had by browning with a salamander.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish - Flan—Quesillo</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>FOR THE CARAMEL:<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> - 4 tablespoons water<br /> - <br /> - FOR THE FLAN:<br /> - 4 eggs, beaten separately<br /> - 2 cups hot milk<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> - Salt</p> - - <p>Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour - it into a baking mold.</p> - - <p>Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven - about ¾ hour.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 142 --><a name="Page_142" - id="Page_142"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritto Misto</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made - with whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or - tidbits of meat are at hand, say a half dozen different - cubes of meat and giblets, with as many hearts of - artichokes, <i>finocchi</i>, tomato, and different - vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk of - melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Polish Piroghs</b> (a - pocketful of cheese)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll - out very thin and cut in 2-inch squares.</p> - - <p>Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of - melted butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful - of seedless currents.</p> - - <p>Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight - together to make little pockets.</p> - - <p>Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, - and boil steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the - pockets won't burst open.</p> - - <p>Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted - butter and a sprinkling of bread crumbs.</p> - - <p>This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheesed Mashed - Potatoes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed - potatoes some old Cheddar with melted butter and a - crumbling of crisp, cooked bacon.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p>If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can - be made via a</p> - - <p><!-- Page 143 --><a name="Page_143" - id="Page_143"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sautéed Swiss - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of - thickly buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, - surround it with one well-beaten egg, slide it into - sizzling butter and fry on both sides. A chef at the New - York Athletic Club once improved on this by first - sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and a slice of - chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in - this until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet - butter made strong men cry for it.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 144 --><a name="Page_144" - id="Page_144"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/144.gif" - width="450" - height="338" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Ten</i> - </div> - - <h2>Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,<br /> - Snacks, Spreads and Toasts</h2> - - <p>In America cheese got its start in country stores in our - cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, - pick up the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the - big-bellied rattrap cheese standing under its glass bell or - wire mesh hood that kept the flies off but not the - free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too palatable, the - taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo the cat - off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be - beat today.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 145 --><a name="Page_145" - id="Page_145"></a> At that time Wisconsin still belonged to - the Indians and Vermont was our leading cheese state, with - its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont Country Store Crackers, as - Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. When Orton heard - we were writing this book, he sent samples from the store - his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. - Together with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese - and the Sage came a handy handmade Cracker Basket, all - wicker, ten crackers long and just one double cracker wide. - A snug little casket for those puffy, old-time, two-in-one - soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the taste of the - accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's made - to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on - one half and another on t'other, or sandwich them - between.</p> - - <p>Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the - corner saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never - faltered till Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was - soon pepped up as saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, - bowls of pickles, peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with - plenty of mustard, pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and - schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese forever together, as in the - free-lunch ditty of that great day:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I am an Irish hunter;<br /></span> <span>I am, I - ain't.<br /></span> <span>I do not hunt for - deer<br /></span> <span>But beer.<br /></span> - <span>Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I do not hunt for fleas<br /></span> <span>But - cheese.<br /></span> <span>Oh, Adolph, bring the free - lunch.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to - coast. In every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, - Limburger—manly cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that - could sit up and beg, golden yellow, tangy mellow, always cut - in cubes. <!-- Page 146 --><a name="Page_146" - id="Page_146"></a>Cheese takes the cube form as naturally as - eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon.</p> - - <p>On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely - cubes, free Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to - lead the tired businessman in by the nose; or a smear of - Canadian Snappy out of a pure white porcelain pot in the classy - places, on a Bent's water biscuit.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - </div> - - <p>Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of - which there is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us - consume most of our country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar - and Swiss. To attempt to classify and describe all of these - would be impossible, so we will content ourselves by picking a - few of the cold and hot, the plain and the fancy, the familiar - and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum up the - situation.</p> - - <p><br /> - <b>A Alpine Club Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick - slice of imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, - and the usual club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of - chicken or turkey, tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>B Boston Beany, Open-face</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it - generously with hot baked beans and a thick layer of - shredded Cheddar. Top with bacon and put under a slow - broiler until cheese melts and the bacon crisps.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>C Cheeseburgers</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin - and, using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a - nice <!-- Page 147 --><a name="Page_147" - id="Page_147"></a>slice of American Cheddar well covered - with mustard. Crimp edges of the hamburgers all around - to hold in the cheese when it melts and begins to run. - Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, toasted - sandwich buns.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>D Deviled Rye</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot - oven. Cool until crisp again. Then spread thickly with - cream cheese, bedeviled with catsup, paprika or - pimiento.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>E Egg, Open-faced</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sauté minced small onion and small green pepper - in 2 tablespoons of butter and make a sauce by cooking with - a cup of canned tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. - Fry 4 eggs and put one in the center of each of 4 pieces of - hot toast spread with the red sauce. Sprinkle each - generously with grated Cheddar, broil until melted and - serve with crisp bacon.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>F French-fried Swiss</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported - Gruyère, soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry - slowly till cheese melts and the sandwich is nicely - browned. This is a specialty of Franche-Comté.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them - on both sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked - chicken, ½ slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a - sprinkling of minced ham. Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut - in half and dip thoroughly in a mixture of egg and milk. - Grill golden on both sides and serve with lengthwise slices - of dill pickle.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <!-- Page 148 --><a name="Page_148" - id="Page_148"></a> <b>H He-man Sandwich, - Open-faced</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a - layer of mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then - one of Swiss cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped - with mustard and a sowing of capers.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>I International Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, - cover soft, untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread - lightly with mustard, top that with a wheel of Bermuda - onion and 1 or 2 slices of Italian-type tomato. Season with - cayenne and salt, dot with butter, cover with Brazil nuts - and brown under the broiler.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes - Comtoises</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture - of onion browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with - grated Gruyère. Simmer until cheese melts, and - serve.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>K Kümmelkäse</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish - slab of Milwaukee Kümmelkäse, which translates - caraway cheese. For good measure sprinkle caraway seeds on - top, or serve them in a saucer on the side. Then dash on a - splash of kümmel, the caraway liqueur that's best when - imported.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French - dressing for ½ hour. Then butter slices of rye, - spread well with soft Limburger, top with onion and you - will have something super-duper—if you like - Limburger. <!-- Page 149 --><a name="Page_149" - id="Page_149"></a></p> - - <p>When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the - sandwich has quite another character and flavor, so true - Limburger addicts make one of each and take alternate bites - for the thrill of contrast.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>M Meringue, Open-faced</b> (from the Browns' - <i>10,000 Snacks</i>)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 - slice of bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter - on untoasted side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over - butter, and the yolk of an egg in the center. Beat egg - white stiff with a few grains of salt and pile lightly on - top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons of grated cheese over - that and bake in moderate oven until the egg white is firm - and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>N Neufchâtel and Honey</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with - thin, decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, - then with Neufchâtel topped with some fine - honey—Mount Hymettus, if possible.</p> - - <p>Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the - Neufchâtel, but nothing will take the place of the - honey to make this heavenly sandwich that must have been - the original ambrosia.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>O Oskar's Ham-Cam</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists - 186 superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all - its own, perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy - ham sandwiches, open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, - sweet or sour, almost any one-way slice you desire. He uses - as many contrasting kinds of bread as possible, and his - butter varies from salt to fresh and whipped. The Ham-Cam - base involves "a juicy, tender slice of freshly boiled, - mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on the ham - as thick as velvet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 150 --><a name="Page_150" - id="Page_150"></a> The Ham-Cam is built up with such - splendors as "goose liver paste and Madeira wine jelly," - "fried calves' kidney and <i>rémoulade</i>," - "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," "a - slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira - jelly, with anything else you say, just so long as it - does credit to Camembert on ham.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>P Pickled Camembert</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread - with ripe imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't - summer). Make a mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, - finely chopped, and spread it on. Top this with a thin - slice of white bread for pleasing contrast with the - black.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, - crusty white bread place thick portions of any good - Portuguese cheese made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." - This last translates back into Queijo da Serra, the - fattest, finest cheese in the world—on a par with - fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy cheese lightly - with imported capers, and you'll say it's scrumptious.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>R Roquefort Nut</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of - genuine Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine - Hungarian paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 - minutes. Finish it off with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or - a mixture thereof.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin - rye, or a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, - spread with sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked - cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 151 --><a name="Page_151" - id="Page_151"></a> Hickory is preferred for most of the - smoking in America. In New York the best smoked cheese, - whether from Canada or nearer home, is usually cured in - the same room with sturgeon. Since this king of smoked - fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to - sandwiching as above.</p> - - <p>Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good - with cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a - salubrious savor, while a sandwich of smoked turkey with - smoked cheese is out of this world. We accompany it with a - cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>T Tangy Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay - thinly sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef - with horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old - chopped chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on - every cheese sandwich, try different kinds for a change: - sharp English freshly mixed by your own hand out of the tin - of powder, or Dijon for a French touch.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>U Unusual Sandwich—of Flowers, Hay and - Clover</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a - layer of equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with - petals of rose, marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with - French Fromage de foin. This French hay cheese gets its - name from being ripened on hay and holds its new-mown - scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers (the smaller they - are, the better), with a little of the luscious juice, and - dust lightly with Sapsago.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>V Vegetarian Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of - store cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with - chopped <!-- Page 152 --><a name="Page_152" - id="Page_152"></a>chives, and anything else in the - Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms that suits your fancy.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>W Witch's Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin - slice of imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop - or two of tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled - ham and press it together with the cheese between the two - bread slices, put in a hot oven and serve piping hot with a - handful of "moonstones"—those outsize pearl - onions.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>X Xochomilco Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a - drop to be had that's native to the festive, floating - gardens near Mexico City. For there, instead of the cow, a - sort of century plant gives milky white <i>pulque</i>, the - fermented juice of this cactuslike desert plant. With this - goes a vegetable cheese curded by its own vegetable rennet. - It's called tuna cheese, made from the milky juice of the - prickly pear that grows on yet another cactuslike plant of - the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes teams up in arid - lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced into a - tortilla sandwich. The milky <i>pulque</i> of Xochomilco - goes as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese - sandwich.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with - cream cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt - and a touch of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole - wheat bread.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Z Zebra</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your - own Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those - oft-photoed <!-- Page 153 --><a name="Page_153" - id="Page_153"></a>skins in El Morocco. Just alternate - stripes of black bread with various white cheeses in - between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern.</p> - </div> - - <p>For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese - sandwiches.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Toasted Cheese - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and - sandwich between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp - cheese, egg yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with - stiffly beaten egg white folded in last to make a light - filling. Fry the buttered sandwich in more butter until - well melted and nicely gilded.</p> - </div> - - <p>This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The - French, who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their - own in the form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an - 'arf and 'arf Welsh Rabbit and Fondue melting of - Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to further sandwich - the two.</p> - - <p>Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in - contrast to this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch - cream cheese by the equally Dutch Pennsylvanians.</p> - - <p>England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time - honors with such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as - Devonshire and Dunlop. Even British Newfoundland is known for - its simple version, that's quite as pleasing as its rich Prince - Edward Island Oyster Stew.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Newfoundland Toasted Cheese - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound grated Cheddar<br /> - 1 egg, well beaten<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter</p> - - <p>Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 154 --><a name="Page_154" - id="Page_154"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/154.gif" - width="391" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Eleven</i> - </div> - - <h2>"Fit for Drink"</h2> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese - fit for drink.</p> - </div> - - <p>Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, - according to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple - and sheep's milk cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese - has always been Feta, and no doubt this was the kind that Circe - combined most suitably with wine to make a farewell drink for - her lovers. She put further sweetness and body into the stirrup - cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. Today we might - whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory.</p> - - <p>While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of - many, France, Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and - honey, suit a lot of gourmets better. Indeed, in such - vinous-caseous places cheese is on the house at all wine sales - for prospective customers to snack upon and thus bring out the - full flavor of the <!-- Page 155 --><a name="Page_155" - id="Page_155"></a>cellared vintages. But professional wine - tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They may - clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of - Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest - it give the wine a spurious nobility.</p> - - <p>And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest - affinity for it. Such affinities are also found in Pont - l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie and red champagne, - Coulommiers and any good <i>vin rosé</i>. Heavenly - marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of - both Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses - such as Epoisses, Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and - Port-Salut seem to be made for each other, as do Château - Margaux and Camembert.</p> - - <p>A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings - together in the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte - Maure, Valençay, Vendôme and the Loire - wines—Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates - with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, - most commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other - fine French cheeses.</p> - - <p>Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard - being Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, - French Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine - from just across the border. Switzerland also has another - cheese favorite at home—Trauben (grape cheese), named - from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged.</p> - - <p>One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also - uniquely suited to the company of any good wine because it is - made in the exact shape and size of a wine barrel bung. A - similar relation is found in Brinzas (or Brindzas) that are - packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly suggesting what - should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian Tokay. - Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The - affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.</p> - - <p>Only the English seem to have a <i>fortissimo</i> taste in - the go-with wines, according to these matches registered by - André Simon in <i>The Art of Good Living:</i></p> - - <p><!-- Page 156 --><a name="Page_156" - id="Page_156"></a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port<br /> - White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry<br /> - Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port<br /> - Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - </div> - - <p>To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with - nips of Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.</p> - - <p>The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other - wines and liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads - to fraudulent imitation, however, for either port or stout is - put into counterfeit Cheshire cheese to make up for the - richness it lacks.</p> - - <p>While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out - palatable, we prefer taking ours straight. When something more - fiery is needed we can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a - chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig and nibble on legitimate Danzig - cheese unadulterated. <i>Goldwasser</i>, or Eau de Vie, was a - favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin Roosevelt, and we - can be sure he took the two separately.</p> - - <p>Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported - kümmel with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese - with a handy saucer of caraway seeds. In the section of France - devoted to gin, the juniper berries that flavor the drink also - go into a local cheese, Fromage Fort. This is further fortified - with brandy, white wine and pepper. One regional tipple with - such brutally strong cheese is black coffee laced with gin.</p> - - <p>French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not - only coffee and rum mixed in during the making, but orange - flower water, too. Then there is la Petafina, made with brandy - and absinthe; Hazebrook with brandy alone; and la Cachat with - white wine and brandy.</p> - - <p>In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with - brandy. In Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by - port, Cider and the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made - to go the regional Calvados cheese. This is also true of our - native Jersey Lightning and hard cider with their accompanying - New <!-- Page 157 --><a name="Page_157" - id="Page_157"></a>York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of - France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own - Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque.</p> - - <p>The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British - cheese. Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and - buttermilk do go well together.</p> - - <p>Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and - some cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses - no less than vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 158 --><a name="Page_158" - id="Page_158"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/158.gif" - width="450" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Twelve</i> - </div> - - <h2>Lazy Lou</h2> - - <p>Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger - unworthy of his heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior - "Swiss" made somewhere in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had - worsened on the voyage. Rejected by the health authorities on - the other side, it was shipped back, reaching home in the - unhappy condition known as "cracked." To cut his losses the - rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and its flavor - disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there came - into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread."</p> - - <p>The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed - cheese, are handy, cheap and nasty. They are available every - <!-- Page 159 --> - <a name="Page_159" - id="Page_159"></a>where and some people even like them. So - any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of their - existence. I have done so—and now, an unfond farewell - to them.</p> - - <p>My academic cheese education began at the University of - Wisconsin in 1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I - have read with profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the - learned Aggies of my Alma Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, - natural cheeses: the making, keeping and enjoying of authentic - Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and naturalized Limburgers.</p> - - <p>At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, - keep their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese - board. One booklet recommends the following for freshman - contemplation:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese board layout" - cellpadding="4"> - <tr> - <td align="left">CARAWAY BRICK</td> - - <td align="left">SELECT BRICK</td> - - <td align="left">EDAM</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">WISCONSIN SWISS</td> - - <td align="left">LONGHORN AMERICAN</td> - - <td align="left">SHEFFORD</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate - any amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better - with German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To - butter or not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? - Salt or sweet? How close do we come to the excellence of the - genuine Alpine Swiss? Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of - thought.</p> - - <p>Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your - cheese board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two - boards; play the teams against each other.</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="The All-American Champs" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>The All-American Champs</b></td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">NEW YORK COON</td> - - <td align="left">PHILADELPHIA CREAM</td> - - <td align="left">OHIO LIEDERKRANZ</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">VERMONT SAGE</td> - - <td align="left">KENTUCKY TRAPPIST</td> - - <td align="left">WISCONSIN LIMBURGER</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="right">CALIFORNIA JACK</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">PINEAPPLE</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="right">MINNESOTA BLUE</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">BRICK</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="center">TILLAMOOK</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - </table> - - <p><!-- Page 160 --><a name="Page_160" - id="Page_160"></a></p> - - <p class="center"><b>VS.</b></p> - - <table summary="The European Giants" - cellpadding="4"> - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>The European Giants</b></td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">PORTUGUESE TRAZ-</td> - - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> - - <td align="left">ITALIAN PARMESAN</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left"> OS-MONTES</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS EMMENTALER</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3" align="left">YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3"> - <table summary="more cheese" - width="80%" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">DANISH BLUE</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">GERMAN MÜNSTER</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">GREEK FETA</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3" - align="center">HABLÉ</td> - </tr> - </table> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the - great and distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. - Your Scandinavian board alone, just to give an idea of the - riches available, will shine with blues, yellows, whites, smoky - browns, and chocolates representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, - Finland, Iceland and Lapland.</p> - - <p>For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to - crown the banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane - his own regal Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, - during and after all three meals. You may prefer to finish with - a delicate Brie, a smoky slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby - Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, about which more later.</p> - - <p>We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, - a giant roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A - second Lazy Lou will bear the savories and go-withs. For these - tidbits the English have a divine genius; think of the deviled - shrimps, smoked oysters, herring roe on toast, snips of broiled - sausage ... But we will make do with some olives and radishes, - a few pickles, nuts, capers. With our two trusty Lazy Lous on - hand plus wine or beer, we can easily dispense with the mere - dinner itself.</p> - - <p>Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily - burdened with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing - the imprint of its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but - Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno - with its slightly burned flavor; tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so - called because the the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a - pole, look as though they <!-- Page 161 --><a name="Page_161" - id="Page_161"></a> were sitting in a saddle—cheese on - horseback, or "<i>cacio a cavallo</i>." Then we ring in Lazy - Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving - Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic - flask of Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is - before you. Gently pull it down and hold your glass to the - spout.</p> - - <p>True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native - American products and reasonably edible imitations of the real - thing are available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for - protein, a cheese party will cost less than a steak barbecue. - And it can be more fun.</p> - - <p>Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest - discoveries. One may bring along as his ticket of admission a - Primavera from Brazil; another some cubes of an Andean - specialty just flown in from Colombia's mountain city, - Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic leaves of - <i>Frailejón Lanudo</i>; another a few wedges of savory - sweet English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, - others with marigolds; another a tube of South American - Kräuterkäse.</p> - - <p>Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include - some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country - stores in New England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if - <i>.you</i> like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky - little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France - and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a - miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of different - shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, in - proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; - "Green Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson - "Tomato-flavored."</p> - - <p>And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique - whirling cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy - sauce, A-1, Tap Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers - and pepper mills are handy, with a big-holed tin canister - filled with crushed red-pepper pods, chili powder, - Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, both sweet - and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of curry, - capers, chives (sliced, not <!-- Page 162 --><a name="Page_162" - id="Page_162"></a>chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves, - chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh - tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and - black olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats.</p> - - <p>Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, - Cora, and my wife, Rose, in writing <i>10,000 Snacks</i> - (which, by the way, devotes nearly forty pages to cheeses), we - staged a rather elaborate tasting party just for the three of - us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to twirl the load.</p> - - <p>The eight wedges on the top round were English and French - samples and the lower one carried the rest, as follows:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese tasting Lazy Lou" - cellpadding="8"> - <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH CHEDDAR</td> - - <td align="left">CHESHIRE</td> - - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - - <td align="left">CANADIAN CHEDDAR (rum flavored)</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">FRENCH MÜNSTER</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH BRIE</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH CAMEMBERT</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SWISS SAPSAGO</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS GRUYERE</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS EDAM</td> - - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">ITALIAN PROVOLONE</td> - - <td align="left">CZECH OSTIEPKI</td> - - <td align="left">ITALIAN GORGONZOLA</td> - - <td align="left">NORWEGIAN GJETOST</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="4" - align="center">HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires - and Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, - graters, scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line - of crumbly Britishers fingers were best.</p> - - <p>The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like - our best domestic "bar cheese" of old.</p> - - <p>The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented - flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's - Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton - was strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price.</p> - - <p>Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by - courtesy English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a - bridegroom <!-- Page 163 --><a name="Page_163" - id="Page_163"></a> in waxed white paper and looked as smooth - and glossy as a gardenia. But there its beauty ended. Either - the rum that flavored it wasn't up to much or the mixture - hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally.</p> - - <p>The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and - better made than most German Münster, which at that time - wasn't being exported much by the Nazis. The Brie was melting - prime, the Camembert was so perfectly matured we ate every - scrap of the crust, which can't be done with many American - "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones sold - out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted - the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. - A plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in - scent, stimulatingly bittersweet in taste—unbeatable. - There is no American pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is - invariably chalky and tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no - good Blues. We have. But they are not Roquefort.</p> - - <p>The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it - has been made in the Canton of Glarus for over five hundred - years) was the least expensive of the lot. Well-cured and dry, - it lent itself to grating and tasted fine on an old-fashioned - buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own seduction, derived - from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is mixed and - which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like sage-green - color.</p> - - <p>Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately - rich, and nutty enough to make us think of the sharp white - wines to be drunk with it at the source.</p> - - <p>As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk - that makes it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. - Perfumed as spring flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, - having a bouquet all its own and a trace of a winelike kick, it - made us vow never to taste another American imitation. Only a - smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a pedigreed Italian - Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and with no sign of - a crack, satisfy the gourmet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 164 --><a name="Page_164" - id="Page_164"></a> The second Italian classic was - Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as fruity as apples, - peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so much like a - ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the - crumbly <i>formaggio</i> lightly forked into the fruit, - split lengthwise.</p> - - <p>After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint - job on its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both - too obviously ready-made for commerce with nothing individual - or custom-made about them, rolled or bounced over from Holland - by the boat load.</p> - - <p>The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of - smoked ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. - In spite of its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't - think of any use for it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty - cents' worth into a ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed - like a waste of money, so we set it aside to try in tiny chunks - on crackers as an appetizer some other day, when it might be - more appetizing.</p> - - <p>We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian - Gjetost that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and - which had the same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by - a native that our piece was entirely too young. That's what - made it so insipid, undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the - next piece we got turned out to be too old and decrepit, and so - strong it would have taken a Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. - When we complained to our expert about the shock to our - palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail on his little - finger.</p> - - <p>"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no - bigger than a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only - in the morning you take it when it's old and strong like this, - for a pick-me-up, a cure for a hangover, you know, like a - prairie oyster well soused in Worcestershire."</p> - - <p>That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh - Rabbit, <i>instead</i> of the Worcestershire sauce, but we - couldn't melt it with anything less than a blowtorch.</p> - - <p>To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the - <!-- Page 165 --><a name="Page_165" - id="Page_165"></a> Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine, - granulating buttery base after mixing it well with some - cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with sardine and - tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. We - juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked - in the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, - capers and chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and - spiced it, then spread it thicker than butter on - pumpernickel and went to it. <i>That's</i> Liptauer - Garniert.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 166 --><a name="Page_166" - id="Page_166"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/166.gif" - width="450" - height="290" - alt="No. 4 Cheese Inc." /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Appendix</i> - </div> - - <h2>The A-B-Z of Cheese</h2> - - <p><i>Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, - with any further information available. Unless otherwise - indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk.</i></p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_A" - id="AtoZ_A"></a><br /> - A</h3> - - <p><b>Aberdeen</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Soft; creamy mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Abertam</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i> <i>(Made near Carlsbad</i>)</p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its - own.</p> - - <p><b>Absinthe</b> <i>see</i> Petafina.</p> - - <p><b>Acidophilus</b> <i>see</i> Saint-Ivel.</p> - - <p><b>Aettekees</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>November to May—winter-made and eaten.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 167 --><a name="Page_167" - id="Page_167"></a> <b>Affiné, Carré</b> - <i>see</i> Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Affumicata, Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella.</p> - - <p><b>After-dinner cheeses</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Agricultural school cheeses</b> <i>see</i> - College-educated.</p> - - <p><b>Aiguilles, Fromage d'</b><br /> - <i>Alpine France</i></p> - - <p>Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of - the district where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Aizy, Cendrée d'</b> <i>see</i> - Cendrée.</p> - - <p><b>Ajacilo, Ajaccio</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of - French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born.</p> - - <p><b>à la Crème</b> <i>see</i> Fromage, Fromage - Blanc, Chevretons.</p> - - <p><b>à la Main</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin.</p> - - <p><b>à la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>à la Rachette</b> <i>see</i> Bagnes.</p> - - <p><b>Albini</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, - pleasant-tasting table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Albula</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into - creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss - Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.</p> - - <p><b>Alderney</b><br /> - <i>Channel Islands</i></p> - - <p>The French, who are fond of this special product of the very - special breed of cattle <!-- Page 168 --><a name="Page_168" - id="Page_168"></a> named after the Channel Island of - Alderney, translate it phonetically—Fromage - d'Aurigny.</p> - - <p><b>Alemtejo</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in - the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the - <i>fromage</i> title. Soft; sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in - cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two - ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the - ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method - of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and - unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet - made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is - used in two other Portuguese cheeses—Queijo da Cardiga - and Queijo da Serra da Estrella—and probably in many - others not known beyond their locale. In France la Caillebotte - is distinguished for being clabbered with <i>chardonnette</i>, - wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much - separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks - for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and - difference in sizes.</p> - - <p><b>Alfalfa</b> <i>see</i> Sage.</p> - - <p><b>Alise Saint-Reine</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; summer-made.</p> - - <p><b>Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, - or Allgäuer Emmentaler</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu - names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our - "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage - Allgäuer Bergkäse <!-- Page 169 --> - <a name="Page_169" - id="Page_169"></a>and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, - described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through - rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of - the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the - world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Allgäuer - Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. Before the - Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of - Allgäu were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and - kept in their home caves in separate compartments for each - year, as far back as the early 1900's. As with fine vintage - wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such - cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only when the - chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached - their prime.</p> - - <p><b>Allgäuer Rahmkäse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder - than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in - the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes - exquisitely with the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as - slippery as the stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the - old-time Slipcote of England. Like so many North Europeans, it - is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different - from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, Rahmkäse can - stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in - Germany.</p> - - <p><b>Alpe</b> <i>see</i> Fiore di Alpe.</p> - - <p><b>Al Pepe</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato - (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 170 --><a name="Page_170" - id="Page_170"></a> <b>Alpes</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bel Paese.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestra</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like - whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a - different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at - Briançon and Gap.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.</p> - - <p><b>Alpin or Clérimbert</b><br /> - <i>Alpine France</i></p> - - <p>The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two - hours. The curd is dipped into molds three to four inches in - diameter and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain, - turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened - one to two weeks.</p> - - <p><b>Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; small and flat—one to two inches thick, - eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.</p> - - <p><b>Altsohl</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert</b><br /> - <i>Limagne, Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to - the Cantal—Fourme-La Tome tribe.</p> - - <p><b>American, American Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Described under their home states and distinctive names are - a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wiscon - <!-- Page 171 --> - <a name="Page_171" - id="Page_171"></a>sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to - name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with - traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, - Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called - Cheddars weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed - and ripened in about the same way, although they differ - greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere - from two months to two years and become sharper, richer and - more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the passing - of time. <i>See</i> Cheddar states and Cheddar types in - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Americano Romano</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard; brittle; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Amou</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>Winter cheese, October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Anatolian</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Anchovy Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>American processed cheese that can be mixed up with - anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a - sausage and sold in handy links.</p> - - <p><b>Ancien Impérial</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like - Neufchâtel and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged - in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing - three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called - Carré and has separate names for the new and the old: - (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré - Affiné, when it has reached a ripe old age, which - doesn't take long—about the same time as - Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 172 --><a name="Page_172" - id="Page_172"></a><b>Ancona</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Andean</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is - formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic - leaves of <i>Frailejón Lanudo</i> (<i>Espeletia - Schultzii</i>) which imparts to it a characteristic flavor. - (Description given in <i>Buen Provecho!</i> by Dorothy - Kamen-Kaye.)</p> - - <p><b>Andechs</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill - at Andechs on Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish - dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the - brothers in dark brown robes.</p> - - <p><b>Antwerp</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.</p> - - <p><b>Appenzeller</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound - wheel—a pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. - There are two qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and - cured in brine for a year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in - brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only - cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.</p> - - <p><b>Appetitost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that - lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose - bottom pans in which it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Appetost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds - added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 173 --><a name="Page_173" - id="Page_173"></a><b>Apple</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a - red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the - pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.</p> - - <p><b>Arber</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in - mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.</p> - - <p><b>Argentine</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of - classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and - Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass - feeding.</p> - - <p><b>Armavir</b><br /> - <i>Western Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring - cold, sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in - forms and ripening in a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Arnauten</b> <i>see</i> Travnik.</p> - - <p><b>Arovature</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Water-buffalo milk.</p> - - <p><b>Arras, Coeurs d'</b> <i>see</i> Coeurs.</p> - - <p><b>Arrigny</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products - of the same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and - champagne are specially well suited to one another.</p> - - <p><b>Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet</b> <i>see</i> - Caillebotte.</p> - - <p><b>Artificial Dessert Cheese</b></p> - - <p>In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese - was made by mixing <!-- Page 174 --><a name="Page_174" - id="Page_174"></a> one quart of cream with two of milk and - spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four - beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white - vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured - into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours. - When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored with - rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for - an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.</p> - - <p><b>Asadero, or Oaxaca</b><br /> - <i>Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico</i></p> - - <p>White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and - braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven - pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."</p> - - <p><b>Asco</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Made only in the winter season, October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Asiago I, II and III</b><br /> - <i>Vicenza, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on - age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like - American Cheddar but have a taste all their own.</p> - - <p>I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and - eating.</p> - - <p>II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until - nine months old.</p> - - <p>III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months - old, it's fine for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Asin, or Water cheese</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly - in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert - <!-- Page 175 --><a name="Page_175" - id="Page_175"></a> cheese, frequently eaten with honey and - fruit.</p> - - <p><b>Au Cumin</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Au Fenouil</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Au Foin and de Foin</b></p> - - <p>A style of ripening "on the hay." <i>See</i> Pithiviers au - Foin and Fromage de Foin.</p> - - <p><b>Augelot</b><br /> - <i>Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type.</p> - - <p><b>d'Auray</b> <i>see</i> Sainte-Anne.</p> - - <p><b>Aurigny, Fromage d'</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Aurillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Aurore and Triple Aurore</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Made and eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Australian and New Zealand</b><br /> - <i>Australia and New Zealand</i></p> - - <p>Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly - Cheddar; some Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly - processed.</p> - - <p><b>Autun</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another - name for it and this is of special interest in a province where - the chief competitors are made of goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Auvergne, Bleu d'</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p> - - <p><b>Au Vin Blanc, Confits</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Avesnes, Boulette d'</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - - <p><b>Aydes, les</b><br /> - <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> - - <p>Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October - to June.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 176 --><a name="Page_176" - id="Page_176"></a> <b>Azeitão, Queijo do</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative - <i>ão</i> implies. There are no finer, fatter cheeses in - the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains - of Portugal and named for them.</p> - - <p><b>Azeitoso</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.</p> - - <p><b>Azuldoch Mountain</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mild and mellow mountain product.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_B" - id="AtoZ_B"></a><br /> - B</h3> - - <p><b>Backsteiner</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from - the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like - the U.S. Brick.</p> - - <p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Not only hard but very hard, named from <i>racler</i>, - French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across - the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped - off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on - bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.</p> - - <p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan - type.</p> - - <p><b>Bakers' cheese</b></p> - - <p>Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer - grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, - pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage - cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 177 --><a name="Page_177" - id="Page_177"></a> <b>Ball</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of - the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.</p> - - <p><b>Ballakäse or Womelsdorf</b></p> - - <p>Similar to Ball.</p> - - <p><b>Balls, Dutch Red</b></p> - - <p>English name for Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Banbury</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of - Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its - equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a - sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are - getting scarce today.</p> - - <p><b>Banick</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>White and sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Banjaluka</b><br /> - <i>Bosnia</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.</p> - - <p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br /> - <i>Provence, France,</i></p> - - <p>Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the - Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to - November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled - with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green - leaves.</p> - - <p><b>Bar cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch - counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was - the backbone of America's cheese industry.</p> - - <p><b>Barbacena</b><br /> - <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in - the leading cheese state of Brazil.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 178 --><a name="Page_178" - id="Page_178"></a> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de - Troyes</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six - inches in diameter and 1¼ inches thick. Named from its - home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears. - Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut - curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to - drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware - mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in - a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in - summer they are often sold fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Barboux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Baronet</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A natural product, mild and mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Barron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Bassillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p> - - <p><b>Bath</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the - historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten - only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also - eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Battelmatt</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western - Austria</i></p> - - <p>An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The - "wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches - high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd - is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it - ripens more rapidly—in four months — - <!-- Page 179 --><a name="Page_179" - id="Page_179"></a> and is somewhat softer, but has the same - holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br /> - <i>Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain - huts in about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is - bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other - a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without - caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarian Beer cheese</b> <i>see</i> Bayrischer - Bierkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian - mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet - sauces.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarois à la Vanille</b> <i>see</i> Fromage - Bavarois.</p> - - <p><b>Bayonne</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bayonne.</p> - - <p><b>Bayrischer Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat - with beer, but to dunk in it.</p> - - <p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br /> - <i>Tibet</i></p> - - <p>Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung - like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a - hundred on a string. <i>Also see</i> Money Made of Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Beagues</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br /> - <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> - - <p>Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental - ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. - Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable - rennet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 180 --><a name="Page_180" - id="Page_180"></a> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i> - Chevretons.</p> - - <p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a - trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to - June.</p> - - <p><b>Beaupré de Roybon</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>A winter specialty made from November to April.</p> - - <p><b>Beckenried</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A good mountain cheese from goat milk.</p> - - <p><b>Beer cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is - merely a translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a - type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, - aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat - while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierkäse is more apt - to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix - malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than - eaten.</p> - - <p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br /> - <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> - - <p>This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild - Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.</p> - - <p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a - calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result - somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not - a true cheese." (MacNeill)</p> - - <p><b>Belarno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is - skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded - by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><a name="Page_181" - id="Page_181"></a> to undergo fermentation, which takes - ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to - eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, - cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly - and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and - allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily - weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially - different from other forms of cooked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Beli Sir</b> <i>see</i> Domaci.</p> - - <p><b>Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated - with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly - fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than - Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark - for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes - are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar - at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will - keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the - weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is - kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, - creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that - go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old - cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the - fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. - There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for - there's never quite enough to go around.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 182 --><a name="Page_182" - id="Page_182"></a> <b>Bel Paese</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p><i>See under</i> <a href="#Page_17">Foreign Greats, Chapter - 3</a>. <i>Also see</i> Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese - types—French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The - American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian - original.</p> - - <p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and - diminutive in every other way.</p> - - <p><b>Bergkäse</b> <i>see</i> Allgäuer.</p> - - <p><b>Bergquara</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. - Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of - fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth - century.</p> - - <p><b>Berkeley</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.</p> - - <p><b>Berliner Kuhkäse</b><br /> - <i>Berlin, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. - Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, - and that's about the only difference between it and Alt - Kuhkäse, without caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added - for flavor. Cured for two months.</p> - - <p><b>Berques</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made of skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Berry Rennet</b> <i>see</i> Withania.</p> - - <p><b>Bessay, le</b><br /> - <i>Bourbonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mild, and creamy.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 183 --><a name="Page_183" - id="Page_183"></a> <b>Bexhill</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.</p> - - <p><b>Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are - actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in - the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and - Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in - <i>echt Deutsche</i> American spots such as Milwaukee and - Hoboken.</p> - - <p><b>Bifrost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in - 4¼-ounce package.</p> - - <p><b>Binn</b><br /> - <i>Wallis, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of - Wallis.</p> - - <p><b>Bitto</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really - two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, - big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is - very hard and sharp and has small eyes.</p> - - <p><b>Blanc à la crème</b> <i>see</i> Fromage - Blanc.</p> - - <p><b>Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc I and II.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and - Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of - the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu - de Laqueuille.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to - May.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 184 --><a name="Page_184" - id="Page_184"></a> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. - Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first - made it a century ago, in 1854.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br /> - <i>Lower Limousin</i></p> - - <p>Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower - Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province - distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority, - this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p> - - <p><b>Blind</b></p> - - <p>The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type - they belong to, such as blind Swiss.</p> - - <p><b>Block Edam</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the - town of Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored - meerschaum.</p> - - <p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> Cheshire-Stilton.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, Danish</b> <i>see</i> Danish Blue.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Dorset</b> <i>see</i> Dorset.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, Jura</b> <i>see</i> Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>One of the modern American process sausages.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 185 --><a name="Page_185" - id="Page_185"></a> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i> - Minnesota.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Moon</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A process product.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double - Dorset</b><br /> - <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> - - <p>A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make - it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to - market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of - Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and - sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right - through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named, - is different from all other cheese molds and has a different - action.</p> - - <p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp and smoky specialty.</p> - - <p><b>Bocconi Provoloni</b> <i>see</i> Provolone.</p> - - <p><b>Boîte</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Boîte.</p> - - <p><b>Bombay</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in - place of a cracker.</p> - - <p><b>Bondes</b> <i>see</i> Bondon de Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><b>Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Nicknamed <i>Bonde à tout bien</i>, from resemblance - to the bung in a barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small - loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter - because of 2% added sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but - slightly salted, to last up to ten days.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 186 --><a name="Page_186" - id="Page_186"></a> <b>Bondost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled - Kuminost in Norway.</p> - - <p><b>Bond Ost</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in - Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Bon Larron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Romantically named "the penitent thief."</p> - - <p><b>Borden's</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz - is the leader.</p> - - <p><b>Borelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A small water-buffalo cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br /> - <i>Provence, France</i></p> - - <p>A winter product, December, January, February and March - only.</p> - - <p><b>Boudanne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three - months.</p> - - <p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the - Neufchâtel family.</p> - - <p><b>Bougon Lamothe</b> <i>see</i> Lamothe.</p> - - <p><b>Bouillé, la</b><br /> - <i>Normandy France</i></p> - - <p>One of this most prolific province's thirty different - notables. In season October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy - it.</p> - - <p><b>Boulette d'Avesnes</b>, or <b>Boulette de - Cambrai</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to May, eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Bourgain</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable - and consumed locally.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 187 --><a name="Page_187" - id="Page_187"></a> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits - Bourgognes.</p> - - <p><b>Box</b><br /> - <i>Württemberg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and - soft:</p> - - <p>I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and - Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made - in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with - saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred - pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in - wooden boxes.</p> - - <p>II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, - Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but - piquant.</p> - - <p><b>Bra No. I</b><br /> - <i>Piedmont, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches - high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by - nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in - the region of Bra.</p> - - <p><b>Bra No. II</b><br /> - <i>Turin and Cuneo, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in - brine.</p> - - <p><b>Brand or Brandkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. - The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set - to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before - pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer - kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while - curing.</p> - - <p><b>Brandy</b> <i>see</i> Caledonian, Cream.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 188 --><a name="Page_188" - id="Page_188"></a> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Described by Richard Wyndham in <i>Wine and Food</i> - (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in - pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is - that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. - It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while - the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be - unique among cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Bratkäse</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, - grilled on toast.</p> - - <p><b>Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other - names</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for - spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in - Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three - meals.</p> - - <p><b>Breakstone</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and - manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their - cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.</p> - - <p><b>Brésegaut</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, white.</p> - - <p><b>Breslau</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A proud Prussian dessert cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Bressans</b> <i>see</i> les Petits.</p> - - <p><b>Bresse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Lightly cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Bretagne</b> <i>see</i> Montauban.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 189 --><a name="Page_189" - id="Page_189"></a> <b>Brevine</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type.</p> - - <p><b>Briançon</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p> - - <p><b>Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Brickbat</b><br /> - <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> - - <p>A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the - eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to - ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it - Briqueton.</p> - - <p><b>Bricotta</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and - made into small luscious cakes.</p> - - <p><b>Brie</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>; - <i>also see</i> Cendré and Coulommiers.</p> - - <p><b>Brie Façon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of - France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest - Brie <i>véritable</i> that is still made best in its - original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><i>see</i> Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent - reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This Brie <i>véritable</i> is made not only in the - seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the - year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called - Maigre, is notably poor and thin. - <!-- Page 190 --><a name="Page_190" - id="Page_190"></a>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as - against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.</p> - - <p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, and available all year. Although the author of - <i>Physiologie du Goût</i> was not noted as a caseophile - and wrote little on the subject beyond <i>Le Fondue</i> - (<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_84">Chapter 6</a>), this savory - Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.</p> - - <p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Brindza</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort - is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its - Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several - stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" - crowded into the original Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Brine</b> <i>see</i> Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, - Brina Dubreala, Briney.</p> - - <p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in - brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked - type.</p> - - <p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br /> - <i>Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains</i></p> - - <p>Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, - Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or - sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in - small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino - is its opposite number in Macedonia.</p> - - <p><b>Brioler</b> <i>see</i> Westphalia.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 191 --><a name="Page_191" - id="Page_191"></a> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i> - Providence</p> - - <p><b>Briqueton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the - very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the - eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of - Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.</p> - - <p><b>Brittle</b> <i>see</i> Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, - Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.</p> - - <p><b>Brizecon</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.</p> - - <p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first - cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten - fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. - Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with - rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Broodkaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Hard, flat, nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Brousses de la Vézubie, les</b><br /> - <i>Nice, France</i></p> - - <p>Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with - powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in - Vézubie.</p> - - <p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain - and Hal districts.</p> - - <p><b>Budapest</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in - Budapest and abroad in Vienna.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 192 --><a name="Page_192" - id="Page_192"></a> <b>Buderich</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A specialty in Dusseldorf.</p> - - <p><b>Bulle</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A Swiss-Gruyère.</p> - - <p><b>Bundost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mellow; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Burgundy</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after the province, not the wine, but they go - wonderfully together.</p> - - <p><b>Bushman</b><br /> - <i>Australia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; yellow; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Butter and Cheese</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p> - - <p><b>"Butter," Serbian</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> - - <p><b>Buttermilk</b><br /> - <i>U.S. & Europe</i></p> - - <p>Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_C" - id="AtoZ_C"></a><br /> - C</h3> - - <p><b>Cabeçou, le</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Small; goat; from Maurs.</p> - - <p><b>Cabrillon</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister - nannies under the rind.</p> - - <p><b>Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du - Ventoux</b></p> - - <p><i>Provence Mountains, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and - sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season - May to November.</p> - - <p><b>Caciocavallo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, - imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 193 --><a name="Page_193" - id="Page_193"></a> <b>Caciocavallo Siciliano</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, also in U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole - milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. - Weight between 17½ and 26 pounds. Used for both table - cheese and grating.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; - sweetish; eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Pecorino Romano</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Romano</b> <i>see</i> Chiavari.</p> - - <p><b>Caerphilly</b><br /> - <i>Wales and England—Devon, Dorset, Somerset & - Wilshire</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also - sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven - days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little - keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat - a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because - it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the - body as long-keeping cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Caillebottes (Curds)</b><br /> - <i>France—Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & - Vendée</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with - chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in - lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, - mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is - Jonchée (<i>see</i>). Other cheeses are made with - vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, - especially in Portugal.</p> - - <p><b>Caille de Poitiers</b> <i>see</i> Petits pots.</p> - - <p><b>Caille de Habas</b><br /> - <i>Gascony, France</i></p> - - <p>Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 194 --><a name="Page_194" - id="Page_194"></a> <b>Cajassou</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.</p> - - <p><b>Calabrian</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and - Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Calcagno</b><br /> - <i>Sicily</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Caledonian Cream</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in - <i>Scotland's Inner Man</i>: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, - flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon - juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put - into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."</p> - - <p><b>Calvados</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the - same province.</p> - - <p><b>Calvenzano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.</p> - - <p><b>Cambrai</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - - <p><b>Cambridge, or York</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one - hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating - in thirty hours.</p> - - <p><b>Camembert</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>"Camembert"</b><br /> - <i>Germany, U.S. & elsewhere</i></p> - - <p>A West German imitation that comes in a cute little - heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more - like the Camembert <i>véritable</i> of Normandy.</p> - - <p><b>Camosun</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd - is pressed in <!-- Page 195 --><a name="Page_195" - id="Page_195"></a>hoops, cheese is salted in brine for - thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to - three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.</p> - - <p><b>Canadian Club</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Cheddar Club.</p> - - <p><b>Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, - Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" - de fromage tres fort</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and - butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in - attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides - the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French - strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.</p> - - <p><b>Canestrato</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one - year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is - made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is - imitated by and for Italian settlers.</p> - - <p><b>Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; - also Fourme and La Tome.</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored - lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty - to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from - highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old - variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or - six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A - Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.</p> - - <p><b>Capitanata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Caprian</b><br /> - <i>Capri, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat - Island, and tangy as a buck.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 196 --><a name="Page_196" - id="Page_196"></a> <b>Caprino (Little Goat)</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Caraway Loaf</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is just one imitation of dozens of German - caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is - not only Kümmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded - bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good - Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than - the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European - originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian - IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen - and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.</p> - - <p><b>Cardiga, Queijo da</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in - English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making - several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with - chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep - cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the - Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but - never rancidly so.</p> - - <p><b>Carlsbad</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.</p> - - <p><b>Carré Affiné</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit - Carré and Ancien Impérial (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><b>Carré de l'Est</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.</p> - - <p><b>Cascaval Penir</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 197 --><a name="Page_197" - id="Page_197"></a> <b>Caseralla</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Casere</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! - Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian - is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern - California.</p> - - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> - <i>Armenia and Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to - Casere and high in quality.</p> - - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Casher Penner</b> <i>see</i> Kasher.</p> - - <p><b>Cashkavallo</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian - Cacciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia</i></p> - - <p>Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.</p> - - <p><b>Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo</b> <i>see</i> Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Caspian</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped - cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and - biting.</p> - - <p><b>Cassaro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Locally consumed, seldom exported.</p> - - <p><b>Castelmagno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.</p> - - <p><b>Castelo Branco, White Castle</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to - Serra da Estrella (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 198 --><a name="Page_198" - id="Page_198"></a> <b>Castillon, or Fromage de - Gascony</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Castle, Schlosskäse</b><br /> - <i>North Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Catanzaro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Consumed locally, seldom exported.</p> - - <p><b>Cat's Head</b> <i>see</i> Katzenkopf.</p> - - <p><b>Celery</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual - caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Cendrée, la</b><br /> - <i>France—Orléanais, Blois & Aube</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are - Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet</p> - - <p><b>Cendré d'Aizy</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Available all year. <i>See</i> la Cendrée.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré de la Brie</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September - to May.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré Champenois or Cendré des - Riceys</b><br /> - <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the - ashes.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p> - - <p><b>Cenis</b> <i>see</i> Mont Cenis.</p> - - <p><b>Certoso Stracchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy, near Milan</i></p> - - <p>A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars - who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer - and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead - of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same - reason.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 199 --><a name="Page_199" - id="Page_199"></a> <b>Ceva</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near - Turin.</p> - - <p><b>Chabichou</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the - months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last - long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.</p> - - <p><b>Chaingy</b><br /> - <i>Orléans, France</i></p> - - <p>Season September to June.</p> - - <p><b>Cham</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of - Mister Pfister (<i>see</i> Pfister).</p> - - <p><b>Chamois milk</b></p> - - <p>Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the - chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain - herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or - domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but - high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.</p> - - <p><b>Champenois or Fromage des Riceys</b><br /> - <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Season from September to June. The same as Cendré - Champenois and des Riceys.</p> - - <p><b>Champoléon de Queyras</b><br /> - <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i>.</p> - - <p>Hard; skim-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Chantelle</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of - the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste - and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married - man's Limburger."</p> - - <p><b>Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 200 --><a name="Page_200" - id="Page_200"></a> <b>Chaource</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same - high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Chapelle</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Charmey Fine</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Gruyère type.</p> - - <p><b>Chaschol, or Chaschosis</b><br /> - <i>Canton of Grisons, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in - diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to - forty pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Chasteaux</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Chèvre.</p> - - <p><b>Chaumont</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Season November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Chavignol</b> <i>see</i> Crottin.</p> - - <p><b>Chechaluk</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese bread</b><br /> - <i>Russia and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious - cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it - is Tworog. (<i>See both</i>.) Only recently Schrafft's in New - York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has - become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out - its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of - contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 201 --><a name="Page_201" - id="Page_201"></a> <b>Cheese butter</b></p> - - <p>Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft - cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green - Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese - butter.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese food</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids - derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, - seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into - a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, - tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement</p> - - <p><b>Cheese hoppers</b> <i>see</i> Hoppers.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese mites</b> <i>see</i> Mites.</p> - - <p><b>Cheshire and Cheshire imitations</b> <i>see</i> with - Cheddar in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cheshire-Stilton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue - mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire - process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing - it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is - the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but - with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue - Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as - distinguished.</p> - - <p><b>Chester</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly - some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at - home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 202 --><a name="Page_202" - id="Page_202"></a> <b>Chevalier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Curds sweetened with sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Chevèlle</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre de Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre petit</b> <i>see</i> Petìts - Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre, Tome de</b> <i>see</i> Tome.</p> - - <p><b>Chevretin</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so - many are.</p> - - <p><b>Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy</b><br /> - <i>Bresse & Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly - salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are - named in the plural in France.</p> - - <p><b>Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, - les</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample - of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.</p> - - <p><b>Chevrotins</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. - Made and eaten from March to December.</p> - - <p><b>Chhana</b><br /> - <i>Asia</i></p> - - <p>All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, - soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its - name.</p> - - <p><b>Chiavari</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region, - and both are hard:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Sour cow's milk, also - known as Cacio Romano.</span><br /> - II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, - the<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">historic little port between - Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">birthplace of the barbaric - "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its raucous serenade of - dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.</span><br /> - <!-- Page 203 --><a name="Page_203" - id="Page_203"></a></p> - - <p><b>Chives cream cheese</b></p> - - <p>Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened - with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret - (with onion added). (<i>See both</i>.) For our taste it's best - when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in - person at the table or just before.</p> - - <p><b>Christalinna</b><br /> - <i>Canton Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Christian IX</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A distinguished spiced cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ciclo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Cierp de Luchon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where - it has the distinction of being the only local product worth - listing with France's three hundred notables.</p> - - <p><b>Citeaux</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Trappist Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><b>Clabber cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows - soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to - clabber.</p> - - <p><b>Clairvaux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 204 --><a name="Page_204" - id="Page_204"></a> <b>Claqueret, le</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. - <i>See</i> Chives.</p> - - <p><b>Clérimbert</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p> - - <p><b>Cleves</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch - original.</p> - - <p><b>Cloves</b> <i>see</i> Nagelkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted - cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A. and Canada</i></p> - - <p>Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be - called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case - McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now - all-American.</p> - - <p>Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste - very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, - sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, - pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the - customers think they are getting something from Olde England or - some aristocratic private club. All are described as - "tangy."</p> - - <p>Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold - in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are - wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called - "snappy."</p> - - <p><b>Cocktail Cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all - Nations" stores:</p> - - <p>Argentine aged Gruyère<br /> - Canadian d'Oka<br /> - French Bleu<br /> - <!-- Page 205 --><a name="Page_205" - id="Page_205"></a> Brie<br /> - Camembert<br /> - Fontainebleu<br /> - Pont l'Evêque<br /> - Port du Salut<br /> - Roblochon<br /> - Roquefort<br /> - Grecian Feta<br /> - Hungarian Brinza<br /> - Polish Warshawski Syr<br /> - Rumanian Kaskaval<br /> - Swiss Schweizerkäse<br /> - American Cheddar in brandy<br /> - Hopi Indian</p> - - <p><b>Coeur à la Crème</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>This becomes Fromage à la Crème II - (<i>see</i>) when served with sugar, and it is also called a - heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a - wicker or willow-twig basket.</p> - - <p><b>Coeurs d'Arras</b><br /> - <i>Artois, France</i></p> - - <p>These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly - rich with the cream of Arras.</p> - - <p><b>Coffee-flavored cheese</b></p> - - <p>Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the - world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so - the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta - satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for - flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Coimbra</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only - one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, - bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic - center.</p> - - <p><b>Colby</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open - texture. Contains more <!-- Page 206 --><a name="Page_206" - id="Page_206"></a> moisture, and doesn't keep as well as - Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>College-educated</b></p> - - <p>Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out - by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and - Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our - agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California - through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the - continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in - turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high - degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe - the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign - imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds - early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach - the high art of Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><b>Colwick</b> <i>see</i> Slipcote.</p> - - <p><b>Combe-air</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but - size.</p> - - <p><b>Commission</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being - darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as - much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North - Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for - size and nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Compiègne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft</p> - - <p><b>Comté</b> <i>see</i> Gruyère.</p> - - <p><b>Conches</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 207 --><a name="Page_207" - id="Page_207"></a> <b>Condrieu, Rigotte de la</b><br /> - <i>Rhone Valley below Lyons, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A - cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November - when pasturage is rich.</p> - - <p><b>Confits au Marc de Bourgogne</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Confits au Vin Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. - When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is - colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and - usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses - and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, - whose shape it retains when turned out.</p> - - <p>All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the - milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now - returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked - cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the - following:</p> - - <p>Belgium—Kochtounkäse<br /> - Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen<br /> - Luxembourg—Kochenkäse<br /> - France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux<br /> - Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa</p> - - <p><b>Coon</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cornhusker</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with - softer body and more moisture.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 208 --><a name="Page_208" - id="Page_208"></a> <b>Cornimont</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked - with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. - It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of - Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.</p> - - <p><b>Corse, Roquefort de</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so - good, of course.</p> - - <p><b>Cossack</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in - brine and still soft and mild after two months in<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">the salt bath.</span><br /> - II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or - more.</p> - - <p><b>Cotherstone</b><br /> - <i>Yorkshire, England</i></p> - - <p>Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. - (<i>See both</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Cotrone, Cotronese</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Cotta</b> <i>see</i> Pasta.</p> - - <p><b>Cottage cheese</b></p> - - <p>Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. - In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The - English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage - cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also - called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed - the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.</p> - - <p><b>Cottenham or Double Cottenham</b><br /> - <i>English Midlands</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but - creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 209 --><a name="Page_209" - id="Page_209"></a> <b>Cottslowe</b><br /> - <i>Cotswold, England</i></p> - - <p>A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, - Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine - Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing - only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It - is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and - winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts - in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the - market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of - American summer tourists.</p> - - <p><b>Cow cheese</b></p> - - <p>Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an - identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and - Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Cream cheese</b><br /> - <i>International</i></p> - - <p>England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream - begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream - that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh - berries—especially the small wild strawberries of rural - England—taste out of this world. It is also drained on - straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small - molds. (<i>See</i> Devonshire cream.) Among regional - specialties are the following, named from their place of origin - or commercial brands:</p> - - <p>Cambridge<br /> - Cottslowe<br /> - Cornwall<br /> - <!-- Page 210 --><a name="Page_210" - id="Page_210"></a> Farm Vale<br /> - Guilford<br /> - Homer's<br /> - "Italian"<br /> - Lincoln<br /> - New Forest<br /> - Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—<i>see</i> - Rush)<br /> - St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus - bacteria)<br /> - Scotch Caledonian<br /> - Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)<br /> - Victoria<br /> - York</p> - - <p><b>Crème Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> - - <p><b>Crème de Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Crème de Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in - perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth - it.</p> - - <p><b>Crème des Vosges</b><br /> - <i>Alsace, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream. Season October to April.</p> - - <p><b>Crème Double</b> <i>see</i> - Double-Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Crème, Fromage à la</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Crème, Fromage Blanc à la</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage Blanc.</p> - - <p><b>Crème St Gervais</b> <i>see</i> Pots de - Crème St Gervais.</p> - - <p><b>Crèmet Nantais</b><br /> - <i>Lower Loire, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft fresh cream of Nantes.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 211 --><a name="Page_211" - id="Page_211"></a> <b>Crèmets, les</b><br /> - <i>Anjou, France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a - dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with - egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled - with vanilla and sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Cremini</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And - by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the - form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and - everything.</p> - - <p><b>Creole</b><br /> - <i>Louisiana, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing - cottage-type curd and rich cream.</p> - - <p><b>Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza - Lombardi</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; - yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.</p> - - <p><b>Creuse</b><br /> - <i>Creuse, France</i></p> - - <p>A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two - different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed - from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five - or six inches high, where it has drained for several - days:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. It is salted and turned - frequently until very dry and hard.</span><br /> - II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined - with straw.<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">This softens, flavors, and - turns it golden-yellow. (<i>See</i> Hay</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">or Fromage de - Foin.)</span></p> - - <p><b>Creusois, or Guéret</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, October to June.</p> - - <p><b>Croissant Demi-sel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 212 --><a name="Page_212" - id="Page_212"></a> <b>Crottin de Chavignol</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In - season April to December. The name is not exactly - complimentary.</p> - - <p><b>Crowdie, or Cruddy butter</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed - together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in - Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops - a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and - stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where - there's no refrigeration.</p> - - <p><b>Crying Kebbuck</b></p> - - <p>F. Marion MacNeill, in <i>The Scots Kitchen</i> says that - this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the - Kimmers feast at a lying-in.</p> - - <p><b>Cuajada</b> <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p> - - <p><b>Cubjac</b> <i>see</i> Cajassou.</p> - - <p><b>Cuit</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Cuit.</p> - - <p><b>Cumin, Münster au</b> <i>see</i> Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Cup</b> <i>see</i> Koppen.</p> - - <p><b>Curd</b> <i>see</i> Granular curd, Sweet curd and York - curd.</p> - - <p><b>Curds and butter</b><br /> - <i>Arabia</i></p> - - <p>Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together - as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs - put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger - than East Indian ghee.</p> - - <p><b>Curé, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 213 --><a name="Page_213" - id="Page_213"></a> <a name="AtoZ_D" - id="AtoZ_D"></a><br /> - D</h3> - - <p><b>Daisies, fresh</b></p> - - <p>A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally - English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let - ripen, and use for seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Dalmatian</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Hard ewe's-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Dambo</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des - Montagnes)</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. - Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee - gossip in the afternoon.</p> - - <p><b>Danish Blue</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent - imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," - and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's - best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than - the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and - Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser - Blues.</p> - - <p><b>Danish Export</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A - fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.</p> - - <p><b>Dansk Schweizerost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small - holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is - often called.</p> - - <p><b>Danzig</b><br /> - <i>Poland</i></p> - - <p>A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, - Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated - city.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 214 --><a name="Page_214" - id="Page_214"></a> <b>Darling</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one - of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of - Boston.</p> - - <p><b>Dauphin</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, November to May.</p> - - <p><b>d'Aurigny, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Daventry</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, - with "blue" veins of a darker green.</p> - - <p><b>Decize</b><br /> - <i>Nivernaise, France</i></p> - - <p>In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles - Brie.</p> - - <p><b>de Foin, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p> - - <p><b>de Fontine</b><br /> - <i>Spain</i></p> - - <p>Crumbly, sharp, nutty.</p> - - <p><b>de Gascony, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p> - - <p><b>de Gérardmer</b> <i>see</i> Récollet.</p> - - <p><b>Delft</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>About the same as Leyden. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Délicieux</b></p> - - <p>The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.</p> - - <p><b>Delikat</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German - Frühstück original. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>de Lile, Boule</b></p> - - <p>French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.</p> - - <p><b>Demi-Étuve</b></p> - - <p>Half-size Étuve. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Demi Petit Suisse</b></p> - - <p>The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it - from the Gros.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 215 --><a name="Page_215" - id="Page_215"></a> <b>Demi-Sel</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but - slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and - creamier.</p> - - <p><b>Demi-Sel, Croissant</b> <i>see</i> Croissant - Demi-Sel.</p> - - <p><b>Derby, or Derbyshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of - Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, - flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical - with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire - and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior - Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of - Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite - of its name.</p> - - <p><b>Devonshire cream and cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and - richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese - by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese - ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that - of French Foin or Hay cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Dolce Verde</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because - cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens - and the green-blues.</p> - - <p><b>Domaci Beli Sir</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a - typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.</p> - - <p><b>Domestic Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 216 --><a name="Page_216" - id="Page_216"></a> <b>Domestic Swiss</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is - made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin - and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and - Emmentaler Valley in our country.</p> - - <p><b>Domiati</b><br /> - <i>Egypt</i></p> - - <p>Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; - white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid - when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular - in the Near East.</p> - - <p><b>Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue - Vinny</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in - flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in - the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it - was made longer ago than that." (<i>See</i> Blue Vinny.)</p> - - <p><b>Dotter</b><br /> - <i>Nürnberg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in - Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made - the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is - splendid.</p> - - <p><b>Doubles</b></p> - - <p>The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as - Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" - are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.</p> - - <p><b>Double-cream</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Wensleydale.</p> - - <p><b>Double-crème</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk - is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la - <!-- Page 217 --> - <a name="Page_217" - id="Page_217"></a>Double-crème, and Pommel is one - well known. They are made throughout France in season and - are much in demand.</p> - - <p><b>Dresdener Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, - skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, - as well as merely eaten.</p> - - <p><b>Drinking cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in - Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of - wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and - noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale - and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.</p> - - <p><b>Dry</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a - leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and - Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern - part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely - simple product, made for home consumption and only in the - winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for - other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a - large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept - warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then - broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and - sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into - forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, - where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From - U.S. Department of Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.)</p> - - <p><!-- Page 218 --><a name="Page_218" - id="Page_218"></a> <b>Dubreala</b> <i>see</i> Brina.</p> - - <p><b>Duel</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.</p> - - <p><b>Dunlop</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind - Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture - and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in - flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling - Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and - Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright - and Wigtown.</p> - - <p><b>Durak</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a - pound.</p> - - <p><b>Duralag, or Bgug-Panir</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow - and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine - bath from two days to two months.</p> - - <p><b>Durmar, Rarush</b> <i>see</i> Rarush.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch cheese</b></p> - - <p>American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Cream Cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is - therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In - America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, - and farmer.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Mill</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A specialty of Oakland, California.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Red Balls</b></p> - - <p>English name for Edam.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 219 --><a name="Page_219" - id="Page_219"></a> <a name="AtoZ_E" - id="AtoZ_E"></a><br /> - E</h3> - - <p><b>Echourgnac, Trappe d'</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Edam</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Egg</b><br /> - <i>Finland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the - curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; - French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. - Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so - the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age - their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old - eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and - the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a - century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.</p> - - <p><b>Elbinger, or Elbing</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia</i></p> - - <p>Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter - when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and - Niederungskäse.</p> - - <p><b>Ekiwani</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's - bathed in.</p> - - <p><b>Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh - from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini - and Karab in different locales.</p> - - <p><b>Elmo Table</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mellow, tasty.</p> - - <p><b>Emiliano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 220 --><a name="Page_220" - id="Page_220"></a> <b>Emmentaler</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all - around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland - reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the - hardest variety. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>, - <i>also</i> Vacherin Fondu.)</p> - - <p><b>"En enveloppe"</b></p> - - <p>French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar - to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the - French refer to frankly as <i>nu</i>, "in the nude."</p> - - <p><b>Engadine</b><br /> - <i>Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.</p> - - <p><b>English Dairy</b><br /> - <i>England and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has - long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Entrechaux, le Cachat d'</b> <i>see</i> Cachat.</p> - - <p><b>Epoisses, Fromage d'</b><br /> - <i>Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches - across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of - their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or - <i>marc</i> to d'Epoisses in making <i>confits</i> with that - name.</p> - - <p><b>Erbo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who - put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our - shores.</p> - - <p><b>Erce</b><br /> - <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Eriwani</b> <i>see</i> Elisavetpolen.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 221 --><a name="Page_221" - id="Page_221"></a> <b>Ervy</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by - two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. - A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Essex</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English - type.</p> - - <p><b>Estrella</b> <i>see</i> Serra da Estrella.</p> - - <p><b>Étuve and Demi-Étuve</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. - In season all year.</p> - - <p><b>Evarglice</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Sharp, nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Excelsior</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Season all year.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_F" - id="AtoZ_F"></a><br /> - F</h3> - - <p><b>Factory Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged - sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and - tractable—too tractable, in fact.</p> - - <p><b>Farm</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie - (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same - as our cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Farmer</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, - nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own - fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe - cake, but in the oven.</p> - - <p><b>Farmhouse</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 222 --><a name="Page_222" - id="Page_222"></a> <b>Farm Vale</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in - wedges, eight to a box.</p> - - <p><b>Fat cheese</b> <i>see</i> Frontage Gras and Maile - Pener.</p> - - <p><b>Fenouil</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Ferme</b> <i>see</i> Farm.</p> - - <p><b>Feta</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Feuille de Dreux</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>November to May.</p> - - <p><b>"Filled cheese"</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in - the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine - to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. - Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt - some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this - vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign - fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign - cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony - fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to - speed up coagulation.</p> - - <p><b>Fin de Siècle</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back - to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.</p> - - <p><b>Fiore di Alpe</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the - Alps."</p> - - <p><b>Fiore Sardo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment - when fully cured.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 223 --><a name="Page_223" - id="Page_223"></a> <b>Flandre, Tuile de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Marolles.</p> - - <p><b>Fleur de Deauville</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Brie, in season December to May.</p> - - <p><b>Fleur des Alpes</b> <i>see</i> Bel Paese and - Millefiori.</p> - - <p><b>Floedeost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's - milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fløtost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of - boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.</p> - - <p><b>Flower</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds - and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of - oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps - they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, - since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except - bean curd.</p> - - <p><b>Fodder cheese</b></p> - - <p>A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is - no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, - so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it - takes.</p> - - <p><b>Foggiano</b><br /> - <i>Apulia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of - sheep's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Foin, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p> - - <p><b>Fondu, Vacherin</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.</p> - - <p><b>Fontainebleau</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; - smooth; mellow; summer variety.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 224 --><a name="Page_224" - id="Page_224"></a><b>Fontina</b> <i>Val d'Acosta, - Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful - aroma.</p> - - <p><b>Fontine, de</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>A favorite all-year product.</p> - - <p><b>Fontinelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Fontini</b><br /> - <i>Parma, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From - the same region as Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Food cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with - some cheese content to flavor it.</p> - - <p><b>Forez, also called d'Ambert</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the - ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in - diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them - on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing - water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual - growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these - is said to resemble Roquefort. (From <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608 of - the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted - for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this - alphabet.)</p> - - <p><b>Formagelle</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggi di Pasta Filata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with - rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is - plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping - while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this - group.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 225 --><a name="Page_225" - id="Page_225"></a> <b>Formaggini, and Formaggini di - Lecco</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is - typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1¼ by two - inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is - fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of - cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, - as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggio d'Oro</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard, sharp, mountain-made.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero</b> <i>see</i> - Nostrale.</p> - - <p><b>Fort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Fort.</p> - - <p><b>Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>This is a big family in the rich cheese province of - Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after - their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, - Rôche and Salers. (<i>See</i> Fourme d'Ambert and - Cantal.)</p> - - <p><b>Fourme de Montebrison</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Fourme de Salers</b> <i>see</i> Cantal, which it - resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.</p> - - <p><b>Fresa, or Pannedas</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fribourg</b><br /> - <i>Italy and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. - (<i>See</i>)</p> - - <p><b>Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, - although some is made in winter, beginning in November.</p> - - <p><b>Friesian</b> <i>see</i> West Friesian.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 226 --><a name="Page_226" - id="Page_226"></a> <b>Fromage à la Creme</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Sour milk drained and - mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Gien is a noted produce, and - so is d'Isigny.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. - Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh - thick cream,</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">whipped egg whites and - sugar.</span><br /> - III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has - soured solid it is<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">hung in cheesecloth in a - cool place to drain, then mixed with a</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">little fresh milk and served - with cream.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">IV. When Morvan or other - type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">for a mold, and marketed in - that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">heart of cream, to be eaten - with sugar.</span></p> - - <p><b>Fromage à la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc just - below, and Farm</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named - after Bavaria where it probably originated.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, - suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's - made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is - the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, - usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, - except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream - and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème.</p> - - <p>Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's - made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after - Nantes and also called Fromage de - <!-- Page 227 --><a name="Page_227" - id="Page_227"></a> Curé. Other districts devoted to - it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Bleu</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Thionville, Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is - produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow - milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is - de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and - re-potted.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage d'Aurigny</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bayonne</b><br /> - <i>Bayonne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made with ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bôite</b><br /> - <i>Doubs, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont - l'Evêque.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bourgogne</b></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Burgundy.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A seasonal goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Curé</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Half goat and half cow milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Gascony</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Pau</b> <i>see</i> La Foncée.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de St. Rémy</b> <i>see</i> Chevrets.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 228 --><a name="Page_228" - id="Page_228"></a> <b>Fromage de Serac</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Troyes</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Two cheeses have this name. (<i>See</i> Barberry and - Ervy.)</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Vache</b></p> - - <p>Another name for Autun.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Monsieur Fromage</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its - season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green - leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with - it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all - its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, - Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Fort</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in - the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured - into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove - any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is - grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, - butter and other things, before fermenting some more.</p> - - <p>Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called - Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the - strongest cheeses in all France.</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. I</i>: That of Flanders, potted with juniper - berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, - salt and white wine.</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. II</i>: That from Franche-Comté Small dry - goat cheeses pounded and <!-- Page 229 --><a name="Page_229" - id="Page_229"></a> potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, - pepper and brandy. (<i>See</i> Hazebrook.)</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. III</i>: From Provence, also called Cachat - d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, - sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and - seasonings and well marinated.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Gras (fat cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, round, fat ball called <i>tête de mort</i>, - "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no - relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these - lines:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Les gens à l'humeur - morose</i><br /></span> <span><i>Prennent la - Tête-de-Mort</i>.<br /></span> <span>People of a - morose disposition<br /></span> <span>Take the Death's - Head.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Fromage Mou</b></p> - - <p>Any soft cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Piquant</b> <i>see</i> Remoudon.</p> - - <p><b>Fromagère</b> <i>see</i> Canquillote.</p> - - <p><b>Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> - - <p>Small, dried goat-milkers.</p> - - <p><b>Frühstück</b></p> - - <p>Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds - two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. - Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their - fast.</p> - - <p><b>Ftinoporino</b><br /> - <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 230 --><a name="Page_230" - id="Page_230"></a> <a name="AtoZ_G" - id="AtoZ_G"></a><br /> - G</h3> - - <p><b>Gaiskäsli</b><br /> - <i>Germany and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small - cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, - weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a - straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted - and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in - three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Gammelost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is - turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with - wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The - color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. - It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified - Limburger, and worse. In his <i>Encyclopedia of Food</i> - Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much - of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese - flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored - with cheese."</p> - - <p><b>Garda</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the - resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of - those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and - edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a - rind.</p> - - <p><b>Garden</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.</p> - - <p><b>Garlic</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 231 --><a name="Page_231" - id="Page_231"></a> <b>Garlic-onion Link</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of - sausage, nobody knows why.</p> - - <p><b>Gascony, Fromage de</b> <i>see Castillon.</i></p> - - <p><b>Gautrias</b><br /> - <i>Mayenne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling - Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><b>Gavot</b><br /> - <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i></p> - - <p>A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow - milk.</p> - - <p><b>Geheimrath</b><br /> - <i>Netherlands</i></p> - - <p>A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color - is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down - to the weight</p> - - <p><b>Gérardmer, de</b> <i>see</i> Récollet</p> - - <p><b>German-American adopted types</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse - Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese - Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian - Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian - Allgäuer)</p> - </div> - - <p><b>Géromé, la</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; - like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and - <!-- Page 232 --><a name="Page_232" - id="Page_232"></a>flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It - stands high at home, where it is in season from October to - April.</p> - - <p><b>Gervais</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison - Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much - larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a - perfect luncheon dessert with honey.</p> - - <p><b>Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner</b> <i>see</i> Holstein - Health.</p> - - <p><b>Getmesost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; whey; sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Gex</b><br /> - <i>Pays de Gex, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in - season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Gex Marbré</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and - sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big - international Blues family, that are green in spite of their - name.</p> - - <p><b>Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage à la Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Gislev</b><br /> - <i>Scandinavia</i></p> - - <p>Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Gjetost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to - Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Glavis</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of - sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 233 --><a name="Page_233" - id="Page_233"></a> <b>Cloire des Montagnes</b> <i>see</i> - Damen.</p> - - <p><b>3/Dec/2004 15:38</b><br /> - <i>Gloucestershire, England</i></p> - - <p>There are two types:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Double, the better of the - two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">months of ripening. "It has a - pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">flavor...the tiniest morsel - being pregnant with savour. To measure</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its refinement, it can undergo - the same comparison as that we apply</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">to vintage wines. Begin with a - small piece of Red Cheshire. If you</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">then pass to a morsel of - Double Gloucester, you will find that the</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">praises accorded to the latter - have been no whit exaggerated."</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>A Concise Encyclopedia of - Gastronomy,</i> by André L. Simon.</span><br /> - II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single - Gloucester<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ripens in two months and is - not as big as its "large grindstone"</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">brother. And neither is it - "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"as different in qualify of - flavour as a young and crisp wine is</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from an old - vintage."</span></p> - - <p><b>Glumse</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Glux</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, all year.</p> - - <p><b>Goat</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of - flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the - milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In - Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen - chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always - notable or noble.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 234 --><a name="Page_234" - id="Page_234"></a> <b>Gold-N-Rich</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste - demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit - sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, - easily recognized by its red rind.</p> - - <p><b>Gomost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. - Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it - has a butter-like consistency. (<i>See</i> Mysost.)</p> - - <p><b>Gorgonzola</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Besides the standard type exported to us (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.) there is White Gorgonzola, - little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local - caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.</p> - - <p><b>Gouda</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Gouda, Kosher</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. - It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher - products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare - it.</p> - - <p><b>Goya</b><br /> - <i>Corrientes, Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine - cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass - distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in - Italy.</p> - - <p>It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes - their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine - milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian - imitations and some of which excel the originals.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 235 --><a name="Page_235" - id="Page_235"></a> <b>Gournay</b><br /> - <i>Seine, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms - about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons - resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches - long.</p> - - <p><b>Grana</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big - shot, that the curd is cut into.</p> - - <p><b>Grana Lombardo</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy</i></p> - - <p>The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in - Lombardy.</p> - - <p><b>Grana Reggiano</b><br /> - <i>Reggio, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely - imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the - Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its - own—Regianito.</p> - - <p><b>Grande Bornand, la</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> - - <p><b>Granular curd</b> <i>see</i> Stirred curd.</p> - - <p><b>Gras, or Velvet Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", - <i>Tête de Maure</i>, in France, from its shape and size. - The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called - <i>Tête de Mort</i>, "Death's Head". Gras is also the - popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and - sold from November to May. (<i>See</i> Brie.)</p> - - <p><b>Gratairon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is - made.</p> - - <p><b>Graubünden</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 236 --><a name="Page_236" - id="Page_236"></a> <b>Green Bay</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, - Wisconsin, the Limburger county.</p> - - <p><b>Grey</b><br /> - <i>Germany and Austrian Tyrol</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in - brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire - cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.</p> - - <p><b>Gruyère</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Güssing, or Land-l-kas</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight - pounds.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_H" - id="AtoZ_H"></a><br /> - H</h3> - - <p><b>Habas</b> <i>see</i> Caille.</p> - - <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b><br /> - <i>Ösmo, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by - the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes - for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a - pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of - cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Hand</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Hard</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Dry; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Harzkäse, Harz</b><br /> - <i>Harz Mountains, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, - varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by - 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing - rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they - thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 237 --><a name="Page_237" - id="Page_237"></a> <b>Harzé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at - Harzé.</p> - - <p><b>Hasandach</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Bland; sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Hauskäse.</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type. Disk-shaped.</p> - - <p><b>Haute Marne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; square.</p> - - <p><b>Hay, or Fromage au Foin</b><br /> - <i>Seine, France</i></p> - - <p>A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing - to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown - hay.</p> - - <p><b>Hazebrook</b></p> - - <p>There are two kinds:</p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort - type with white wine, juniper, salt and</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">pepper. Excessively strong for - bland American tasters.</span><br /> - II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, - pounded, potted and<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">marinated in a mixture of - thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.</span></p> - - <p><b>Head</b></p> - - <p>Four cheeses are called Head:</p> - - <p>The French Death's Head.<br /> - Swiss Monk's Head.<br /> - Dutch Cat's Head.<br /> - Moor's Head.</p> - - <p>There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head - and is only a cheese by discourtesy.</p> - - <p><b>Health</b> <i>see</i> Holstein.</p> - - <p><b>Herbesthal</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Named from a valley full of rich <i>herbes</i> for - grazing.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 238 --><a name="Page_238" - id="Page_238"></a> <b>Herkimer</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cheddar type; nearly white. <i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House</b><br /> - <i>West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half - cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in - all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.</p> - - <p><b>Herrgårdstyp</b> <i>see</i> Hushållsost.</p> - - <p><b>Hervé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft; made in cubes and peppered with <i>herbes</i> such as - tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to - May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part - skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Hickory Smoked</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Hohenburg</b> <i>see</i> Box No. II.</p> - - <p><b>Hohenheim</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. - I.)</p> - - <p><b>Hoi Poi</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in - jars.</p> - - <p><b>Hoja</b> <i>see</i> Queso de.</p> - - <p><b>Hollander</b><br /> - <i>North Germany</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in - Holstein.</p> - - <p><b>Holstein Dairy</b> <i>see</i> Leather.</p> - - <p><b>Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with - dripping.</p> - - <p><b>Holstein Health, or Holsteiner - Gesundheitkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle - with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is - poured into half-pound molds and cooled.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 239 --><a name="Page_239" - id="Page_239"></a> <b>Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein - Magerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," - tells all.</p> - - <p><b>Hop, Hopfen</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to - ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.</p> - - <p><b>Hopi</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first - by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.</p> - - <p>Horner's<br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire - sauce originated.</p> - - <p><b>Horse Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo - because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition - of it.</p> - - <p><b>Hum</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that - make you say "Ho-hum."</p> - - <p><b>Hushållsost, Household Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Popular in three types: Popular in three types:<br /> - Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse<br /> - Västgötatyp—Westgotland<br /> - Sveciatyp—Swedish</p> - - <p><b>Hvid Gjetost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked - outside of Scandinavia.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_I" - id="AtoZ_I"></a><br /> - I</h3> - - <p><b>Icelandic</b></p> - - <p>In <i>Letters from Iceland</i>, W.H. Auden says: "The - ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also - a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter - is Gjetost.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 240 --><a name="Page_240" - id="Page_240"></a> <b>Ihlefield</b><br /> - <i>Mecklenburg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>A hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ilha, Queijo de</b><br /> - <i>Azores</i></p> - - <p>Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother - Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. - The one word, <i>Ilha</i>, Isle, covers the several Azorian - Islands whose names, such as <i>Pico</i>, Peak, and - <i>Terceiro</i>, Third, are sometimes added to their - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Impérial, Ancien</b> <i>see</i> Ancien.</p> - - <p><b>Imperial Club</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous - French Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Incanestrato</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round - "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. <i>See</i> Majocchino, a - kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and - enriched with olive oil besides.</p> - - <p><b>Irish Cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary - imitations named after their native places of manufacture: - Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.</p> - - <p><b>Isigny</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. - <i>(See.)</i> Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name - never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert - in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to - Limburger. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter 2</a>.)</p> - - <p>In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh - cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as - close to being cheese as any cream can.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 241 --><a name="Page_241" - id="Page_241"></a> <b>Island of Orléans</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from - France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 - on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near - Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage - Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the - name "refined."</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_J" - id="AtoZ_J"></a><br /> - J</h3> - - <p><b>Jack</b> <i>see</i> Monterey.</p> - - <p><b>Jochberg</b><br /> - <i>Tyrol, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all - mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches - high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.</p> - - <p><b>Jonchée</b><br /> - <i>Santonge, France</i></p> - - <p>A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower - water or, uniquely, black coffee.</p> - - <p><b>Josephine</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small - cylindrical packages.</p> - - <p><b>Journiac</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Julost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i>.</p> - - <p>Semihard; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_K" - id="AtoZ_K"></a><br /> - K</h3> - - <p><b>Kaas, Oude</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 242 --><a name="Page_242" - id="Page_242"></a> <b>Kackavalj</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Same as Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Kaiser-käse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and - is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a - jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.</p> - - <p><b>Kajmar, or Serbian Butter</b><br /> - <i>Serbia and Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang - between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Kamembert</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Karaghi La-La</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Nutty and tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Kareish</b><br /> - <i>Egypt</i></p> - - <p>A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.</p> - - <p><b>Karut</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Karvi</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.</p> - - <p><b>Kash</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Kashcavallo, Caskcaval</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Kasher, or Caher, Penner</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Hard; white; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Kash Kwan</b><br /> - <i>Bulgaria and the Balkans</i></p> - - <p>An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when - young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago - failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, - Washington and all big American cities.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 243 --><a name="Page_243" - id="Page_243"></a> <b>Kaskaval</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and - well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and - neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and - U.S.A.</p> - - <p><b>Kasseri</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ewe's milk, usually.</p> - - <p><b>Katschkawalj</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Katzenkopf, Cat's Head</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Edam. (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Kaukauna Club</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Widely advertised processed cheese food.</p> - - <p><b>Kauna</b><br /> - <i>Lithuania</i></p> - - <p>A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.</p> - - <p><b>Kefalotir, Kefalotyi</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria</i></p> - - <p>Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either - goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a - Greek hat, or Kefalo.</p> - - <p><b>Keg-ripened</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Brand.</p> - - <p><b>King Christian IX</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.</p> - - <p><b>Kingdom Farm</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y.</i> The Rutherfordites or - Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that - are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to - get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not - available elsewhere.</p> - - <p><b>Kirgischerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Krutt.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 244 --><a name="Page_244" - id="Page_244"></a> <b>Kjarsgaard</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both - designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon - <i>Kaffee-klatsches</i> in the <i>Konditories</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Kloster, Kloster Käse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In - Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters - on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a - freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early - cloisters, down to this day.</p> - - <p><b>Kochenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Luxembourg</i></p> - - <p>Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is - recommended for diets.</p> - - <p><b>Koch Käse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This translates "cooked cheese."</p> - - <p><b>Kochtounkäse</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Kolos-monostor</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three - inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the - students and professors at the Agricultural School of - Transylvania.</p> - - <p><b>Kolosvarer</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo - milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Komijnekaas, Komynekass</b><br /> - <i>North Holland</i></p> - - <p>Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.</p> - - <p><b>Konigskäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 245 --><a name="Page_245" - id="Page_245"></a> <b>Kopanisti</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Koppen, Cup, or Bauden</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both - its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; - pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound - packages.</p> - - <p><b>Korestin</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Kosher</b></p> - - <p>This cheese appears in many countries under several names. - Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by - Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. - (<i>See</i> Gouda, Kosher.)</p> - - <p><b>Krauterkäse</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians - near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of - Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.</p> - - <p><b>Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or - Grunkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Asian Steppes</i></p> - - <p>A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the - Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or - camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and - dried in the sun.</p> - - <p><b>Kühbacher</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow - Creek, where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Kuminost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; caraway-seeded.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 246 --><a name="Page_246" - id="Page_246"></a> <b>Kumminost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>This is Bondost with caraway added.</p> - - <p><b>Kummin Ost</b><br /> - <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in - Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home - and their <i>ost</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Caraway-seeded and named.</p> - - <p><b>Kümmelkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse - has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most - drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_L" - id="AtoZ_L"></a><br /> - L</h3> - - <p><b>Labneh</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk.</p> - - <p><b>La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Lager Käse</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semidry and mellow. While <i>lager</i> means merely "to - store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer - here.</p> - - <p><b>Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole</b><br /> - <i>Aveyron, France</i></p> - - <p>An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the - Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It - is in full season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray</b><br /> - <i>Poitou</i></p> - - <p>Goat cheese made from May to November.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 247 --><a name="Page_247" - id="Page_247"></a> <b>Lancashire, or Lancaster</b><br /> - <i>North England</i></p> - - <p>White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can - get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most - popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at - Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture, - for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is - accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in - color.</p> - - <p><b>Land-l-kas, or Güssing</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to - eight pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Langlois Blue</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can - hardly compete with Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Langres</b><br /> - <i>Haute-Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, - high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of - days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian - kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a - half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.</p> - - <p><b>Lapland</b><br /> - <i>Lapland</i></p> - - <p>Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both - round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with - angular ends.</p> - - <p><b>Laredo</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico - city.</p> - - <p><b>Larron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Maroilles.</p> - - <p><b>Latticini</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as - Camembert.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 248 --><a name="Page_248" - id="Page_248"></a> <b>Laumes, les</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to July.</p> - - <p><b>Lauterbach</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Breakfast cheese</p> - - <p><b>Leaf</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> - - <p><b>Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from - the great <i>milch</i> cows up near Denmark in - Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that - it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred - with a Danish stirrer."</p> - - <p><b>Lebanie</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.</p> - - <p><b>Lecco, Formaggini di</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of - a cheese family as big as the human family of most - Italians.</p> - - <p><b>Lees</b> <i>see</i> Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.</p> - - <p><b>LeGuéyin</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt - <i>and</i> pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as - Italian Pepato.</p> - - <p><b>Leicester</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese - weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, - according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to - the Derbyshire type.</p> - - <p>An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were - just made for each other."</p> - - <p><b>Leidsche Kaas</b> <i>see</i> Leyden.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 249 --><a name="Page_249" - id="Page_249"></a> <b>Leonessa</b></p> - - <p>A kind of Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Leroy</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern - processed.</p> - - <p><b>Lerroux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in - fall or winter months.</p> - - <p><b>Lescin</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked - directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, - rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into - forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in - leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the - leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in - leaves again for another ripening period.</p> - - <p>The use of a skin sack again points the association of - cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin - bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.</p> - - <p><b>Les Petits Bressans</b><br /> - <i>Bresse, France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the - plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being - wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.</p> - - <p><b>Les Petits Fromages</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages and - Thiviers.</p> - - <p><b>Le Vacherin</b></p> - - <p>Name given to two entirely different varieties:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Vacherin à la - Main</span><br /> - II. Vacherin Fondu. (<i>See</i> Vacherin.)</p> - - <p><!-- Page 250 --><a name="Page_250" - id="Page_250"></a> <b>Levroux</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese in season from May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two - kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, - for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% - in the factory product.</p> - - <p><b>Liederkranz</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Limburger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Lincoln</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in - England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the - U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Lindenhof</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great - peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer - is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the - same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and - spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly - sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in - various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Lipto</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative - of both Liptauer and Brinza.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 251 --><a name="Page_251" - id="Page_251"></a> <b>Little Nippy</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and - smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for - spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's - still processed.</p> - - <p><b>Livarot</b><br /> - <i>Calvados, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, - uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over - Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be - manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is - plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two - inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of - caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and - March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to - Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten - to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh <i>laiche</i> - leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and - other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.</p> - - <p><b>Livlander</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the - cheese itself is red, not the rind.</p> - - <p><b>Locatelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano - Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Lodigiano, or Lombardo</b><br /> - <i>Lodi, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. - Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. - Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 252 --><a name="Page_252" - id="Page_252"></a> <b>Longhorn</b><br /> - <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to - the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just - from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.</p> - - <p><b>Lorraine</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with - pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite - young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.</p> - - <p><b>Lumburger</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger - because it has no odor.</p> - - <p><b>Lunch</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger - type of eye-opener.</p> - - <p><b>Lüneberg</b><br /> - <i>West Austria</i></p> - - <p>Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as - strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and - aromatic, with a character of its own.</p> - - <p><b>Luxembourg</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be - Camembert.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_M" - id="AtoZ_M"></a><br /> - M</h3> - - <p><b>Maconnais</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half - inches thick.</p> - - <p><b>Macqueline</b><br /> - <i>Oise, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a - cheaper price.</p> - - <p><b>Madridejos</b><br /> - <i>Spain</i></p> - - <p>Named for Madrid where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Magdeburger-kuhkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 253 --><a name="Page_253" - id="Page_253"></a> <b>Magerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Holstein - Skim Milk</p> - - <p><b>Maggenga, Sorte</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A term for Parmesan types made between April and - September.</p> - - <p><b>Maguis</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread.</p> - - <p><b>Maigre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the - winter Gras and spring Migras.</p> - - <p><b>Maile</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into - a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year.</p> - - <p><b>Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when - ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Mainauer</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. - Weight three pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Mainzer Hand</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes - for quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, - packed in kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight - weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes - a worthy craft.</p> - - <p><b>Majocchino</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed - together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive - oil. A kind of Incanestrato.</p> - - <p><b>Malakoff</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, - eaten fresh or ripe.</p> - - <p><b>Manicamp</b><br /> - <i>French Flanders</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to July.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 254 --><a name="Page_254" - id="Page_254"></a> <b>Mano, Queso de</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name - translates. (<i>See</i> Venezuelan.)</p> - - <p><b>Manor House</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - - <p><b>Manteca, Butter</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a - covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing—not for - cooking—which is unusual for any Italian cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Manur, or Manuri</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until - the fingers can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and - buttermilk is added with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from - the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded - like bread, lightly salted, and dried."</p> - - <p><b>Maqueé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Marches</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk; hard.</p> - - <p><b>Margarine</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An oily cheese made with oleomargarine.</p> - - <p><b>Margherita</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cream; small.</p> - - <p><b>Marienhofer</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type. About 4½ inches square and 1½ - inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil.</p> - - <p><b>Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; smelly; hand type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 255 --><a name="Page_255" - id="Page_255"></a> <b>Maroilles, Marolles, Marole</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque - and Limburger. Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, - yellow within. Five inches square and 2¼ inches thick; - some larger.</p> - - <p><b>Martha Washington Aged Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (<i>See under</i> - Wisconsin in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Mascarpone, or Macherone</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually - packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.</p> - - <p><b>McIntosh</b><br /> - <i>Alaska</i></p> - - <p>An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter - McIntosh, and described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan - gold, which brought at times about ounce for ounce over - mining-camp counters." <i>The Cheddar Box</i> by Dean - Collins.</p> - - <p><b>McLaren's</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally - made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S A.</p> - - <p><b>Meadowbloom</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.</p> - - <p><b>Mecklenburg Skim</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.</p> - - <p><b>Meilbou</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made in the Champagne district.</p> - - <p><b>Mein Käse</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.</p> - - <p><b>Melfa</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed - in half moons.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 256 --><a name="Page_256" - id="Page_256"></a> <b>Melun</b><br /> - <i>France</i> Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. - There is also a Brie de Melun.</p> - - <p><b>Mentelto</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains</p> - - <p><b>Merignac</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat.</p> - - <p><b>Merovingian</b><br /> - <i>Northeast France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of - the Merovingian kings.</p> - - <p><b>Mersem</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Lightly cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Mesitra</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, - ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Mesost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Whey; sweetish.</p> - - <p><b>Metton</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Season October to June.</p> - - <p><b>Meuse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; piquant; aromatic.</p> - - <p><b>Midget Salami Provolone</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort - of sausage, too.</p> - - <p><b>Mignot</b><br /> - <i>Calvados, France</i></p> - - <p><i>White, No. I:</i> Soft; fresh; in small cubes or - cylinders; in season only in summer, April to September.</p> - - <p><i>Passe, No. II:</i> Soft but ripened, and in the same - forms, but only seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar - to Pont l'Evêque and popular for more than a century. It - goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or - distilled.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 257 --><a name="Page_257" - id="Page_257"></a> <b>Migras</b></p> - - <p>Name given to spring Brie—midway between fat winter - Gras and thin summer Maigre.</p> - - <p><b>Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1½ to - 2¾ inches thick, 3 to 6½ pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Milk Mud</b> <i>see</i> Schlickermilch.</p> - - <p><b>Millefiori</b><br /> - <i>Milan, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A Thousand Flowers—as highly scented as its - sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as - these flowery Alpine ones.</p> - - <p><b>Milltown Bar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and - old-time bars.</p> - - <p><b>Milk cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Milks that make cheese around the world:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Ass Buffalo Camel Chamois Elephant Goat Human - (<i>see</i> Mother's milk) Llama Mare Reindeer Sea cow - (Amazonian legend) Sheep Whale (legendary; see Whale - Cheese) Yak Zebra Zebu</p> - </div> - - <p>U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or - strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 258 --><a name="Page_258" - id="Page_258"></a> <b>Milwaukee Kümmelkäse<br /> - and Hand Käse</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early - emigrants and successfully imitated.</p> - - <p><b>Minas</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is - made. Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two - best brands are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put - out by the Swiss professors who teach the art at the - Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello - Horizonte.</p> - - <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides - Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, - natural nationals to be proud of.</p> - - <p><b>Mintzitra</b><br /> - <i>in Macedonia; and</i><br /> - <b>Mitzithra</b><br /> - <i>in Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other - sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous - Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Modena, Monte</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.</p> - - <p><b>Mohawk Limburger Spread</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A brand that comes in one-pound jars.</p> - - <p><b>Moliterno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Caciocavallo. <i>(See.)</i></p> - - <p><b>Monceau</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, similar to Maroilles.</p> - - <p><b>Moncenisio</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 259 --><a name="Page_259" - id="Page_259"></a> <b>Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, - Mondseer Schlosskäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>This little family with a lot of long names is closely - related to the Münster tribe, with very distant - connections with the mildest branch of the Limburgers.</p> - - <p>The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in - which it is shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class - by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer - than the others, being made of whole milk.</p> - - <p><b>Money made of cheese</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world - there is a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, - Farran Zerbee, writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese - money' of Northern China, 1850-70, now in the Chase Bank - collection, came to me personally some thirty years ago from a - woman missionary, who had been located in the field where she - said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as - 'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like - other commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a - trading medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and - was sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be - exchangeable for other articles of service."</p> - - <p><b>Monk's Head</b> <i>see</i> Tête de Moine.</p> - - <p><b>Monostorer</b><br /> - <i>Transylvania, Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Monsieur</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; salted; rich in flavor.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 260 --><a name="Page_260" - id="Page_260"></a> <b>Monsieur Fromage</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Montana</b><br /> - <i>Catalonia</i></p> - - <p>A mountain cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Montasio</b><br /> - <i>Austria and Italy</i></p> - - <p>Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the - rind is often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It - is eaten both fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is - yellow, granular and sharp, with a characteristic flavor. - Mostly used when three to twelve months old, but kept much - longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in - America.</p> - - <p><b>Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated cheese of Brittany.</p> - - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs - of the <i>Achittea</i> family.</p> - - <p><b>Mont Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>An Alpine cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Mont Cenis</b><br /> - <i>Southeastern France</i> Usually made of all three available - milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semi-hard and blue-veined - like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel. - Primitive methods are still used in the making and sometimes - the ripening is done by <i>penicillium</i> introduced in moldy - bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing - twenty-five pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Mont-des-Cats</b><br /> - <i>French Flanders</i></p> - - <p>Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 261 --><a name="Page_261" - id="Page_261"></a> <b>Montdidier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cream.</p> - - <p><b>Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout - the Rhone Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by - financiers" according to Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont - l'Evêque but more delicate than either, though not - effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best is still - turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. - Didier.</p> - - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the - curd.</p> - - <p><b>Monterey</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in - California and along the Mexican border.</p> - - <p><b>Monterey Jack</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Monthéry</b><br /> - <i>Seine-et-Oise, France</i></p> - - <p>Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in - size, weighing up to 5½ pounds. Notable only for its - patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns - blue and has red spots.</p> - - <p><b>Montpellier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Moravian</b><br /> - <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Morbier</b><br /> - <i>Bresse, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from November to July.</p> - - <p><b>Mostoffait</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A little-known product of Champagne.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 262 --><a name="Page_262" - id="Page_262"></a> <b>Mother's milk</b></p> - - <p>In his book about French varieties, <i>Les Fromages</i>, - Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into - cheese and recounts the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese - "white as snow" that was so delicately appetizing it was - partaken of in "religious silence." All the guests guessed, but - none was right. So the host announced it was made of <i>"lait - de femme"</i> and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all - of us are cannibals."</p> - - <p><b>Mountain</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; yellow; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Mountain, Azuldoch</b> <i>see</i> Azuldoch.</p> - - <p><b>Mount Hope</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Mouse or Mouse Trap</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery - low-grade store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged - and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for - caseophiles.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarella</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; - bland, white cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like - cups weighing about a half pound and protected with wax paper. - The genuine is made at Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the - Mazzoni di Capua. Like Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese - all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly, - with a bitter taste.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear - shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 263 --><a name="Page_263" - id="Page_263"></a> Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both - fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as - Lasagne and Pizza.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarinelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.</p> - - <p><b>Mrsav</b> <i>see</i> Sir Posny.</p> - - <p><b>Münster</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and - Copenhagen to Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good - and bad. Semihard; whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red - outside; flavor from mild to strong, depending on age and - amount of caraway or anise seed added. Best in winter season, - from November to April.</p> - - <p>Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both - German and French. Géromé is a standard French - type of it, with a little longer season, beginning in April, - and a somewhat different flavor from anise seed. Often, instead - of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is served with - the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste.</p> - - <p>In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the - name of Münster au Cumin because of the caraway.</p> - - <p>American imitations are much milder and marketed much - younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and - Limburger; maybe they do.</p> - - <p><b>Mustard</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed domestic, Gruyère type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 264 --><a name="Page_264" - id="Page_264"></a> <b>Myjithra</b></p> - - <p>Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.</p> - - <p><b>Mysost, Mytost</b><br /> - <i>Scandinavia</i></p> - - <p>Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the - U.S.A. A whey cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel - color all through, instead of the heavy chocolate or dark - tobacco shade of Gjetost. Frimost is a local name for it. The - American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin - foil.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_N" - id="AtoZ_N"></a><br /> - N</h3> - - <p><b>Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in - Holland</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, - <i>nagel</i>, in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds - resemble English Derby.</p> - - <p><b>Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the - Curate</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.</p> - - <p><b>Nessel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.</p> - - <p><b>Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, - Bondon, and <a href="#Page_129">Chapter 9</a>.</p> - - <p><b>New Forest</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese from the New Forest district.</p> - - <p><b>Nieheimer</b><br /> - <i>Westphalia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer - or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with - hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 265 --><a name="Page_265" - id="Page_265"></a> <b>Niolo</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Noekkelost or Nögelost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped - like a Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian - variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.</p> - - <p><b>Nordost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.</p> - - <p><b>North Wilts</b><br /> - <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> - - <p>Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in - flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its - locale.</p> - - <p><b>Nostrale</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two - kinds:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. <i>Formaggio Duro:</i> - hard, as its name says, made in the spring</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">when the cows are in the - valley.</span><br /> - II. <i>Formaggio Tenero:</i> soft and richer, summer-made with - milk<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from lush - mountain-grazing.</span></p> - - <p><b>Notruschki (cheese bread)</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.</p> - - <p><b>Nova Scotia Smoked</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova - Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like - sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Nuworld</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised - as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in - small, heavily waxed portions - <!-- Page 266 --><a name="Page_266" - id="Page_266"></a> to preserve all of its fine, full aroma - and flavor.</p> - - <p>A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an - entirely new species or not.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_O" - id="AtoZ_O"></a><br /> - O</h3> - - <p><b>Oaxaca</b> <i>see</i> Asadero.</p> - - <p><b>Oka, or La Trappe</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks - in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated - in France. <i>See</i> Trappe.</p> - - <p><b>Old English Club</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Not old, not English, and representing no club we know - of.</p> - - <p><b>Old Heidelberg</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.</p> - - <p><b>Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of - Oléron.</p> - - <p><b>Olive Cream</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival - pimientos for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the - bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made - with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Olivet</b><br /> - <i>Orléans, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Fresh; summer, white; cream - cheese.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Olivet-Bleu—mold - inoculated; half-ripened.</span><br /> - III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, - October to June.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 267 --><a name="Page_267" - id="Page_267"></a> <b>Olmützer Quargel, also - Olmützer Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, - only ½ of an inch thick by 1½ inches in diameter. - Packed in kegs to ripen into beer cheese and keep the liquid - contents of other kegs company. A dozen of these little ones - are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer - drinks at home or at the bar.</p> - - <p><b>Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Onion with garlic links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.</p> - - <p><b>Oporto</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.</p> - - <p><b>Orkney</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in - the oat bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. - Oatmeal and Scotch country cheese are natural affinities. - Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor - of such cheese with oatcakes.</p> - - <p><b>Orléans</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; - tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Comes in two forms:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Soft and mild sheep or - cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.</span><br /> - II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type - made of<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">sheep milk is the - better.</span></p> - - <p><b>Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka</b><br /> - <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk - for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 268 --><a name="Page_268" - id="Page_268"></a> <b>Oswego</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>New York State Cheddar of distinction.</p> - - <p><b>Oude Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Popular in France as Boule de Lille.</p> - - <p><b>Oust, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> - - <p>Of the Camembert family.</p> - - <p><b>Ovár</b><br /> - <i>Hungarian</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow - inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called - Hungarian Tilsit.</p> - - <p><b>Oveji Sir</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavian Alpine</i></p> - - <p>Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three - months. Weight six to ten pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Oxfordshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because - of Jonathan Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth - century:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>"An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon - the table, pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take - away the cheese.'</p> - - <p>"'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I - well?'</p> - - <p>"To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you - served the coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we - had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"</p> - </div> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_P" - id="AtoZ_P"></a><br /> - P</h3> - - <p><b>Pabstett</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and - although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and - Prohibition has long since been - <!-- Page 269 --><a name="Page_269" - id="Page_269"></a> done away with, the relation of the - processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as - near beer from regular beer.</p> - - <p><b>Packet cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the - package or packet it comes in.</p> - - <p><b>Paglia</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of - Gorgonzola. A Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of - further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of - cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type.</p> - - <p><b>Pago</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in - Dalmatia, in weights from ½ to eight pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Paladru</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Palpuszta</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Fairly strong Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Pannarone</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue - veining.</p> - - <p><b>Parenica</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Sheep. Caciocavallo type.</p> - - <p><b>Parmesan, Parmigiano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese - in the world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to - cheese straws with the demitasse, and puts spirit into the - sparse Lenten menu as <i>Pasta al Pesto</i>, powdered Parmesan, - garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a - pestle.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 270 --><a name="Page_270" - id="Page_270"></a> <b>Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème - de Passau</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème - de Passau.</p> - - <p><b>Pasta Cotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The ball or <i>grana</i> of curd used in making - Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Pasta Filata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains - into which Grana is chopped.(<i>See</i> Formaggi di Pasta - Filata.)</p> - - <p><b>Pasteurized Process Cheese Food</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented - cheese. Had Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery - would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his - hand.</p> - - <p><b>Pastorella</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Patagras</b><br /> - <i>Cuba</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>Pecorino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. - Granular.</p> - - <p><b>Pelardon de Rioms</b><br /> - <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese in season from May to November.</p> - - <p><b>Peneteleu</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>One of the international Caciocavallo family.</p> - - <p><b>Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album</b></p> - - <p>Tiny mushroom spores of <i>Penicillium Glaucum</i> sprinkled - in the curd destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into - "blue" veins that impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve - to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface, - snow-white <i>Penicillium Album</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Pennich</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 271 --><a name="Page_271" - id="Page_271"></a> <b>Pennsylvania Hand Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch - ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania - pot, or cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Penroque</b><br /> - <i>Pennsylvania, U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with <i>Penicillium - Roqueforti</i> and ripened in "caverns where nature has - duplicated the ideal condition of the cheese-curing caverns of - France." So any failure of Penroque to rival real Roquefort is - more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother - nature.</p> - - <p><b>Pepato</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips - burn. Fine for fire-eaters.</p> - - <p>An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.</p> - - <p><b>Persillé de Savoie</b><br /> - <i>Savoie, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a - manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Petafina, La</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese - added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and - absinthe.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Carré</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made - almost unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a - box; also packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one - wedge for fifteen cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is - a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are - actually worse than we can do at home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 272 --><a name="Page_272" - id="Page_272"></a> <b>Petit Moule</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>A pet name for Coulommiers.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Suisse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel - and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gros—a largest - cylinder</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Demi—a small - one</span></p> - - <p>Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has - praised its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in - Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss - settlers, it is ideal with honey.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Vacher</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Bourgognes</b><br /> - <i>Lower Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also - beginning with B are Banons and Bressans.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little - mountains of Provence.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Clotted milk in small pots.</p> - - <p><b>Pfister</b><br /> - <i>Cham, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making - with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the - first to manufacture it, in Chain.</p> - - <p><b>Philadelphia Cream</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy - years. Made in New York State in spite of its name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 273 --><a name="Page_273" - id="Page_273"></a> <b>Picnic</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss - has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away - from home.</p> - - <p><b>Picodon de Dieule Fit</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Pie, Fromage à la</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy - cottage-cheese type.</p> - - <p><b>Pie Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be - cut in wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any - other pie. And by the way, in these days when natural cheese is - getting harder to find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in - pie wedges before being wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the - real thing—if it has the rind on. The wedge shape is - used, however, <i>without any rind</i>, to make processed - pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying word, - and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged - nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a - "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar."</p> - - <p><b>Pimiento</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits - our bland national taste, especially when mixed with - Neufchâtel, cream, club or cottage. The best is homemade, - of course, with honest, snappy old Cheddar mashed and mixed to - taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that equals the Spanish - olive as a partner in such spreads.</p> - - <p><b>Pimp</b> <i>see</i> Mainzer Hand Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Pineapple</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 274 --><a name="Page_274" - id="Page_274"></a> <b>Piora</b><br /> - <i>Tessin, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and - cow's.</p> - - <p><b>Pippen</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll</p> - - <p><b>Pithiviers au Foin</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Poitiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.</p> - - <p><b>Pommel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>All year. Double cream; unsalted.</p> - - <p><b>Ponta Delgada</b><br /> - <i>Azores</i></p> - - <p>Semifirm; delicate; piquant</p> - - <p><b>Pontgibaud</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.</p> - - <p><b>Pont l'Evêque</b></p> - - <p>Characterized as a classic French <i>fromage</i> "with - Huge-like Romanticism." (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow."</p> - - <p><b>Poona</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. - Sold in two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room - temperature before serving.</p> - - <p><b>Port-Salut, Port du Salut</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Port, Blue Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage - links.</p> - - <p><b>Pot cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English - favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, - almonds and macaroons. <!-- Page 275 --><a name="Page_275" - id="Page_275"></a> In Ireland it was used in connection with - the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow - curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Potato</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat - sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. - One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two - or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of - potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt - and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to - stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes - place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or - cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for - fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It - is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite - so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other - essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of - Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.</p> - - <p><b>Potato Pepper</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like - Pepato, only not so stony hard.</p> - - <p><b>Pots de Crème St. Gervais</b><br /> - <i>St. Gervais-sur-mer, France</i></p> - - <p>The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is - eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Pouligny-St. Pierre</b><br /> - <i>Touraine, France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from - May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Poustagnax, le</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 276 --><a name="Page_276" - id="Page_276"></a> <b>Prato</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation - of Holland Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or - quince paste. Named not from "dish" but the River Plate - district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long - ago.</p> - - <p><b>Prattigau</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named - for its home valley.</p> - - <p><b>Prestost or Saaland Flarr</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gouda, but unique—the curd being mixed with - whiskey, packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a - cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with - whiskey.</p> - - <p><b>Primavera, Spring</b><br /> - <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a - springlike fragrance.</p> - - <p><b>Primost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Primula</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table - cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish - Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added.</p> - - <p><b>Processed</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and - modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus - changed into a plastic mass.</p> - - <p><b>Promessi</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Small soft-cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Provatura</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good - beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 277 --><a name="Page_277" - id="Page_277"></a> <b>Providence</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.</p> - - <p><b>Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, - Provoletti, and Provolino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known - and appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly - imitated in the U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are - interchangeable.</p> - - <p>Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang - decoratively in the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw - Chianti bottles, Provolones weigh from <i>bocconi</i> - (mouthful), about one pound, to two to four pounds. There are - three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with huge Salamis - and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all sorts of - decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that - are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.</p> - - <p><b>P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and - potted.</p> - - <p><b>Puant Macere</b><br /> - <i>Flanders</i></p> - - <p>"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season - from November to June.</p> - - <p><b>Pultost or Knaost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.</p> - - <p><b>Pusztador</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high - scent.</p> - - <p><b>Pyrenees, Fromage des</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fine mountain variety.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 278 --><a name="Page_278" - id="Page_278"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Q" - id="AtoZ_Q"></a><br /> - Q</h3> - - <p><b>Quartiolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between - September and November.</p> - - <p><b>Quacheq</b><br /> - <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Quargel</b> <i>see</i> Olmützer.</p> - - <p><b>Quartirolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Queijos—Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and - Portugal</b> <i>see</i> under their local or regional names: - Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da - Estrella.</p> - - <p><b>Queso Anejo</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>White, dry, skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Bola</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, similar to Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Cavallo</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Pear-shaped cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida</b> - <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Cincho</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in - palm leaves.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Crema</b><br /> - <i>Costa Rica</i></p> - - <p>Similar to soft Brick.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top - of each other.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 279 --><a name="Page_279" - id="Page_279"></a> <b>Queso de Mano</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.</p> - - <p><b>Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Prensa</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or - after ripening two or three months.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Puna</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Tapara</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called <i>tapara</i> from - the shape and tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good - fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and - dry." D.K.K. in <i>Bueno Provecho.</i></p> - - <p><b>Queso Fresco</b><br /> - <i>El Salvador</i></p> - - <p>Cottage-cheese type.</p> - - <p><b>Queville</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Queyras</b> <i>see</i> Champoléon.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_R" - id="AtoZ_R"></a><br /> - R</h3> - - <p><b>Rabaçal</b><br /> - <i>Coimbra, Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches - in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Rabbit Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.</p> - - <p><b>Radener</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. - Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 280 --><a name="Page_280" - id="Page_280"></a> <b>Radolfzeller Cream</b><br /> - <i>Germany, Switzerland, Austria</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Ragnit</b> <i>see</i> Tilsit.</p> - - <p><b>Rahmkäse, Allgäuer</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Cream.</p> - - <p><b>Rainbow</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Mild; mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Ramadoux</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to - Hervé</p> - - <p><b>Rammil or Rammel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in - Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or - "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today.</p> - - <p><b>Rangiport</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.</p> - - <p><b>Rarush Durmar</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Brittle; mellow; nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Rächerkäse</b></p> - - <p>The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where - it is very popular.</p> - - <p><b>Raviggiolo</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Rayon or Raper</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, - where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for - grating and seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Reblochon or Roblochon</b><br /> - <i>Savoy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. - Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon - in the same section.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 281 --><a name="Page_281" - id="Page_281"></a> <b>Récollet de - Gérardmer</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from - October to April</p> - - <p><b>Red</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Livlander.</p> - - <p><b>Red Balls</b><br /> - <i>Dutch</i></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Reggiano</b> <i>see</i> Grana.</p> - - <p><b>Regianito</b><br /> - <i>Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not - a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Reichkäse</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany - had one.</p> - - <p><b>Reindeer</b><br /> - <i>Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway</i></p> - - <p>In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from - reindeer milk It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland - production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular - instead of round ends.</p> - - <p><b>Relish cream cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and - that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to - June.</p> - - <p><b>Requeijão</b><br /> - <i>Portugal and Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Recooked.</p> - - <p><b>Resurrection</b> <i>see</i> Welsh.</p> - - <p><b>Rhubarbe</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no - relation to our pie plant.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 282 --><a name="Page_282" - id="Page_282"></a> <b>Riceys</b> <i>see</i> Champenois.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta Romano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. - Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and - cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, - salads, lasagne, blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also - mixed with Marsala and rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may - be had in every Little Italy, some of it very well made and, - unfortunately, some of it a poor substitute whey cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta Salata</b></p> - - <p>Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too - hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for - grating.</p> - - <p><b>Riesengebirge</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in - Bohemia's northern mountains.</p> - - <p><b>Rinnen</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded - variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to - drain.</p> - - <p><b>Riola</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes - longer to ripen, two to three months.</p> - - <p><b>Robbiole<br /> - Robbiola<br /> - Robbiolini</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy</i><br /> - <i>Italian</i></p> - - <p>Very similar to Crescenza (<i>see</i>.) Alpine winter cheese - of fine quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from - eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the - family tips the scale at just under four ounces.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 283 --><a name="Page_283" - id="Page_283"></a> <b>Roblochon, le</b></p> - - <p>Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of - half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.</p> - - <p><b>Rocamadur</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Rocroi</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>From the Champagne district.</p> - - <p><b>Rokadur</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Roll</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Rollot or Rigolot</b><br /> - <i>Picardy and Montdidier, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and - Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is - Picardy's one and only cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Roma</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream.</p> - - <p><b>Romadour, Romadura, and other national - spellings</b><br /> - <i>Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to - April. It is not a summer cheese, especially in lands where - refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America - from several countries.</p> - - <p><b>Romano, Romano Vacchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Romanello</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small - grating cheese, cured one year.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 284 --><a name="Page_284" - id="Page_284"></a> <b>Roquefort cheese dressing, - bottled</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed - oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, - salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort de Corse</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made - of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for - ripening.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort de Tournemire</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the - royal Roquefort name.</p> - - <p><b>Rougerets, les</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where - practically every variety is made with goat milk.</p> - - <p><b>Rouennais</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter - cheese, eaten from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Round Dutch</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>An early name for Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Rouy, le</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.</p> - - <p><b>Royal Brabant</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Royal Sentry</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who - haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as - an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese - spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident - insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, - non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium - phosphate.</p> - - <p><b>Ruffec, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Saintonge, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh; goat.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 285 --><a name="Page_285" - id="Page_285"></a> <b>Runesten</b><br /> - <i>Denmark and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs - about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.</p> - - <p><b>Rush Cream Cheese</b><br /> - <i>England and France</i></p> - - <p>Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are - made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses - are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old - English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary - fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth - when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this - on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase - the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until - the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the - fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow - heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as - follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed - cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one - tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of - rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and - straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths - and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or - baskets should not be used a second time.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_S" - id="AtoZ_S"></a><br /> - S</h3> - - <p><b>Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made - with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also - washed with whiskey.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 286 --><a name="Page_286" - id="Page_286"></a> <b>Saanen</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the - finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also - known as Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it - came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an - extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in - the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer - than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the - eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for - ripening is six years, but some take nine.</p> - - <p><b>Sage, or Green cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is - in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening - to milk by the method described in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Affrique</b><br /> - <i>Guyenne, France</i></p> - - <p>This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of - Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a - toothsome goat cheese of local renown.</p> - - <p>We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most - of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is - seldom shipped abroad.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Agathon</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, October to July.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Amand-Montrond</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Benoit</b><br /> - <i>Loiret, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to - the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It - ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to - twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 287 --><a name="Page_287" - id="Page_287"></a> <b>Saint-Claude</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a - half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before - salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Cyr</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Florentin</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to - July.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Flour</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Another seasonal specialty from this province of many - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Gelay</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint - Gervais</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Pots de Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Heray</b> <i>see</i> La Mothe.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Honoré</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>A small goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Hubert</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brie.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Ivel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Fresh dairy cream cheese containing <i>Lactobacillus - acidophilus</i>. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., - which is made with <i>Bacillus Bulgaricus.</i></p> - - <p><b>Saint-Laurent</b><br /> - <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> - - <p>Mountain sheep cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Lizier</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>A white, curd cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 288 --><a name="Page_288" - id="Page_288"></a> <b>Saint-Loup, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Poitou and Vendée, France</i></p> - - <p>Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to - September</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Marcellin</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by ¾ - inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to - December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but - this is essentially a goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Moritz</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Soft and tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Pierre-Pouligny</b> <i>see</i> - Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Reine</b> <i>see</i> Alise.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Rémy, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Haute-Saône, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Pont l'Evêque type.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Stefano</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Bel Paese type.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Winx</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this - Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy - products.</p> - - <p><b>Sainte-Anne d'Auray</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.</p> - - <p><b>Sainte-Marie</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 289 --><a name="Page_289" - id="Page_289"></a> <b>Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de - Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to - Valençay.</p> - - <p><b>Salamana</b><br /> - <i>Southern Europe</i></p> - - <p>Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, - to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on - bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly - cheese-flavored porridge.</p> - - <p><b>Salame</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. - Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common - in Italy, from Provolone down, and now—both as salami and - links—it has became extremely popular for processed and - cheese foods throughout America.</p> - - <p><b>Salers, Bleu de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>One of the very good French Blues.</p> - - <p><b>Saligny</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>White cheese made from sheep's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saloio</b><br /> - <i>Lisbon, Portugal</i></p> - - <p>An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short - cylinder, 1½ to two inches in diameter, weighing a - quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many - small farms.</p> - - <p><b>Salonite</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years - ago.</p> - - <p><b>Saltee</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The - same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as - white as its name implies.</p> - - <p><b>Salt-free cheese, for diets</b></p> - - <p>U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg - Kochenkäse.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 290 --><a name="Page_290" - id="Page_290"></a> <b>Samsö</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is - the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.</p> - - <p><b>Sandwich Nut</b></p> - - <p>An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or - Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><b>Sapsago</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Sardegna</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia</i></p> - - <p>A Romano type made in Sardinia.</p> - - <p><b>Sardinian</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>The typical hard grating cheese of this section of - Italy.</p> - - <p><b>Sardo</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the - Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.</p> - - <p><b>Sarraz or Sarrazin</b><br /> - <i>Vaud, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Roquefort type.</p> - - <p><b>Sassenage</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiny, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a - French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of - which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and - sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble - and Sassenage are celebrated.</p> - - <p><b>Satz</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard cheese made in Saxony.</p> - - <p><b>Savoy, Savoie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in - Savoy.</p> - - <p><b>Sbrinz</b><br /> - <i>Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 291 --><a name="Page_291" - id="Page_291"></a> <b>Scanno</b><br /> - <i>Abruzzi, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. - Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.</p> - - <p><b>Scarmorze or Scamorze</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear - from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied - together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or - in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive - oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about - 3½ by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and - sold as Pear cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Schabziger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.</p> - - <p><b>Schamser, or Rheinwald</b><br /> - <i>Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to - forty-six pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Schlickermilch</b></p> - - <p>This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for - Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Schlesische Sauermilchkäse</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on - straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open - latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to - ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm - water two or three times a week.</p> - - <p><b>Schlesischer Weichquarg</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at - 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack - twenty-<!-- Page 292 --> - <a name="Page_292" - id="Page_292"></a>four hours, then kneaded and shaped by - hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored - with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand - cheese odor develops.</p> - - <p><b>Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a - favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an - aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for - Liederkranz.</p> - - <p><b>Schmierkäse</b></p> - - <p>German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America.</p> - - <p><b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b> <i>see</i> Liederkranz, - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Schönland</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful - land."</p> - - <p><b>Schützenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than - four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.</p> - - <p><b>Shottengsied</b><br /> - <i>Alpine</i></p> - - <p>A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.</p> - - <p><b>Schwarzenberger</b><br /> - <i>Hungary and Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three - months to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Schweizerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>German for Swiss cheese. (<i>See</i> Emmentaler.)</p> - - <p><b>Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is - nothing wonderful.</p> - - <p><b>Select Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_158">Chapter - 12</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Selles-sur Cher</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 293 --><a name="Page_293" - id="Page_293"></a> <b>Sénecterre</b><br /> - <i>Puy-de-Dôme, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1½ - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Septmoncel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, - goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by - some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member - of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.</p> - - <p><b>Serbian</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a - kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added, - the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by - being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put - in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered - each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk - for six.</p> - - <p>Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. - It is semisoft.</p> - - <p><b>Serbian Butter</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> - - <p><b>Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain - Range)</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in - Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. - The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon - flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms - for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds, - about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly - oily and delightfully acid.</p> - - <p><b>Sharp-flavored cheese</b></p> - - <p>U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano - Fecorino, Old <!-- Page 294 --><a name="Page_294" - id="Page_294"></a> Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and - Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian - Kaskaval.</p> - - <p><b>Shefford</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter - 2</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Silesian</b><br /> - <i>Poland and Germany</i></p> - - <p>White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see - Schlesischer.)</p> - - <p><b>Sir cheeses</b></p> - - <p>In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr - means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk - and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to - both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the - Saint cheeses in France.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Iz Mjesine</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over - an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, - breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by - hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and - two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh - or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, - and put away to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Mastny</b><br /> - <i>Montenegro</i></p> - - <p>Fresh sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Posny</b><br /> - <i>Montenegro</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also - answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav.</p> - - <p><b>Sir, Twdr</b> <i>see</i> Twdr Sir.</p> - - <p><b>Sir, Warshawski</b> <i>see</i> Warshawski Syr.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 295 --><a name="Page_295" - id="Page_295"></a> <b>Siraz</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Skyr</b><br /> - <i>Iceland</i></p> - - <p>The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between - Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. - It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take - too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful - information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to - take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives - you diarrhea."</p> - - <p><b>Slipcote, or Colwick</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is - put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When - firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or - two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat - becomes loose and easily slips off—hence the name. In the - middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best - cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in - Wissenden, Rutlandshire.</p> - - <p><b>Smältost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft and melting.</p> - - <p><b>Smearcase</b></p> - - <p>Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used - in America for cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Block</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A well-smoked cheese in block form.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella - Affumicata.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Szekely</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and - smoked.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 296 --><a name="Page_296" - id="Page_296"></a> <b>Smokelet</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i>.</p> - - <p>A small smoked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Soaked-curd cheese</b> <i>see</i> Washed-curd cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Sorbais</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown - rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste - and square shape, but smaller.</p> - - <p><b>Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga</b></p> - - <p>Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Soumaintrain, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - - <p><b>Soybean</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often - developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a - regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and - rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has - been known to make them shiver.</p> - - <p><b>Spalen or Stringer</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of - Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from - the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported - together.</p> - - <p><b>Sperrkäse</b> <i>see</i> Dry.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced</b><br /> - <i>International</i></p> - - <p>Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition - of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the - making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the - cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost - <!-- Page 297 --><a name="Page_297" - id="Page_297"></a> or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in - English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, - Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; - Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, - etc.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced and Spiced Spreads</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify - not less than 1½ ounces of spice to 100 pounds of - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced Fondue</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.<br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p><b>Spitz Spitzkase</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway - spiced, Limburger-like. <i>see</i> Backsteiner.</p> - - <p><b>Sposi</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; small; cream.</p> - - <p><b>Spra</b><br /> - <i>Greek</i></p> - - <p>Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath - in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they - are made principally from sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Stängenkase</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p>Stein Käse<br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well - made after the old German original.</p> - - <p><b>Steinbuscher-Käse</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick - forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly - thought of at home but little known abroad.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 298 --><a name="Page_298" - id="Page_298"></a> <b>Steppe</b><br /> - <i>Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark</i></p> - - <p>German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and - mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for - export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home - consumption.</p> - - <p>Stilton <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Stirred curd cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and - marketed younger.</p> - - <p><b>Stracchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, - rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, - never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading - variety. See in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>. Also see - Certoso Stracchino.</p> - - <p>Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored - member of this distinguished family.</p> - - <p><b>Stravecchio</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Stringer</b> <i>see</i> Spalen.</p> - - <p><b>Styria</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk. Cylindrical form.</p> - - <p><b>Suffolk</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet - milk" cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular - anywhere, it has stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its - smell but for its flinty hardness.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Hunger will break - through stone walls and anything</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">except a Suffolk - cheese."</span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 299 --><a name="Page_299" - id="Page_299"></a> <span>"Those that made me were - uncivil<br /></span> <span>For they made me harder - than the devil.<br /></span> <span>Knives won't - cut me; fire won't sweat me;<br /></span> - <span>Dogs bark at me, but can't eat - me."<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Surati, Panir</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Buffalo milk. Uncolored.</p> - - <p><b>Suraz</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and semisoft.</p> - - <p><b>Sveciaost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to - match Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three - qualities: full cream, ¾ cream, and half cream. Soft; - rich; ready to eat at six weeks and won't keep past six months. - A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the - country rather than a part of it as most <i>osts</i> are.</p> - - <p><b>Sweet-curd</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and - the curd cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. - When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual - Cheddar made by the granular process.</p> - - <p><b>Swiss</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New - Galrus, Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch - bugs gobbling their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have - been at it ever since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic - cheese, has been their standby, and only in recent years these - Wisconsin Schweizers have had competition from Ohio and other - states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look - like the genuine imported Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 300 --><a name="Page_300" - id="Page_300"></a> <b>Szekely</b><br /> - <i>Transylvania, Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes - smoked. This is the type of foreign cheese that set the popular - style for American processed links, with wine flavors and - everything.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_T" - id="AtoZ_T"></a><br /> - T</h3> - - <p><b>Taffel, Table, Taffelost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tafi</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Made in the rich province of Tucuman.</p> - - <p><b>Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>Very small and tasty goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Taleggio</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.</p> - - <p><b>Tallance</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat.</p> - - <p><b>Tamie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method - that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an - imitation produced not far away.</p> - - <p><b>Tanzenberger</b><br /> - <i>Carinthia, Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Tao-foo or Tofu</b><br /> - <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> - - <p>Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The - beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled - so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained - off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This - is then handled in the <!-- Page 301 --><a name="Page_301" - id="Page_301"></a>same way as animal milk in making ordinary - cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it - is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked - dishes, as well as being eaten as is.</p> - - <p><b>Teleme</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. - Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat - in ten days.</p> - - <p><b>Terzolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in - winter.</p> - - <p><b>Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, - Moor's Head</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Tête de Moine, Monk's Head</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, - summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called - Bellelay.</p> - - <p><b>Tête de Mort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Gras for this - death's head.</p> - - <p><b>"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the - Scottish rhyme that exposes it:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The first love token ye gae me<br /></span> - <span>Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.<br /></span> - <span>O wae be to the tempting cheese,<br /></span> - <span>The tempting cheese of Fyvie,<br /></span> - <span>Gat me forsake my ain gude man<br /></span> - <span>And follow a fottman laddie.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Texel</b></p> - - <p>Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the - island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 302 --><a name="Page_302" - id="Page_302"></a> <b>Thenay</b><br /> - <i>Vendôme, France</i></p> - - <p>Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.</p> - - <p><b>Thion</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A fine Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><b>Three Counties</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that - make most of the Irish cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Thuringia Caraway</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A hand cheese spiked with caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Thyme</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two - other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme—both French: - Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.</p> - - <p><b>Tibet</b><br /> - <i>Tibet</i></p> - - <p>The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country - Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all - sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a - hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash - and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese - cheese money. (<i>See under</i> Money.)</p> - - <p><b>Tignard</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne - Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.</p> - - <p><b>Tijuana</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track - town.</p> - - <p><b>Tillamook</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called - Ragnit</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to - American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that - give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also - resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 303 --><a name="Page_303" - id="Page_303"></a>Old Tilsiter is something special in - aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around - the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it - is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and - Canadian—even Swiss—imitations.</p> - - <p>The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in - flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant - post-prandial dallying."</p> - - <p><b>Tilziski</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Whole cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Tome, la</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of - Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, - Rôche, Salers, etc.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Savoie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: - Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.</p> - - <p><b>Tomelitan Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of French Gruyère in 2½ ounce - packages.</p> - - <p><b>Topf or Topfkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour - skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one - ounce. When cured it is flaky.</p> - - <p><b>Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore - used as a table cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 304 --><a name="Page_304" - id="Page_304"></a> <b>Toscanello</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A smaller edition of Toscano.</p> - - <p><b>Touareg</b><br /> - <i>Berber, Africa</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd - is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried - for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent - turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake - Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.</p> - - <p><b>Tour Eiffel</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a - picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Touloumisio</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Tournette</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tourne de chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Trappe, la, or Oka</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its - Canadian monastery.</p> - - <p><b>Trappist</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Trappist</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Trappist Port-Salut imitation.</p> - - <p><b>Trauben (Grape)</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine - and so named for the grape.</p> - - <p><b>Travnik, Travnicki</b><br /> - <i>Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and - occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in - Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as - Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 305 --><a name="Page_305" - id="Page_305"></a>When fresh it is almost white and has a - mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from - two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes - should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is - characteristically oily and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Traz os Montes</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles - nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is - oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all - tallowy.</p> - - <p><b>Trecce</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Triple Aurore</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Normandy cheese in season all the year around.</p> - - <p><b>Troo</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.</p> - - <p><b>Trouville</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of - superior quality.</p> - - <p><b>Troyes, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Barberey and Ervy.</p> - - <p><b>Truckles</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety - like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle - or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door - to door singing for a handout:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Pray, dame, something,<br /></span> <span>An - apple or a dumpling,<br /></span> <span>Or a piece of - Truckle cheese<br /></span> <span>Of your own - making.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 306 --><a name="Page_306" - id="Page_306"></a>No. II: Local name in the West of England - for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.</p> - - <p><b>Tschil</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either - sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land - where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.</p> - - <p><b>Tuile de Flandre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Marolles.</p> - - <p><b>Tullum Penney</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Salty from being soaked in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Tuna, Prickly Pear</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by - boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear - fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and - sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes - enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a - very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico - for centuries.</p> - - <p><b>Tuscano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Twdr Sir</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp - taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in - diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.</p> - - <p><b>Twin Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, - Green Bay, Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Tworog</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in - the cheese bread called Notruschki.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 307 --><a name="Page_307" - id="Page_307"></a> <b>Tybo</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Tyrol Sour</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tzgone</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia</i></p> - - <p>The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.</p> - - <p><b>Tzigenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and - salty; originated in Dalmatia.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_U" - id="AtoZ_U"></a><br /> - U</h3> - - <p><b>Urda</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Creamy; sweet; mild.</p> - - <p><b>Uri</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. - Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Urseren</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Mild flavored. Cooked curd.</p> - - <p><b>Urt, Fromage d'</b></p> - - <p>Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_V" - id="AtoZ_V"></a><br /> - V</h3> - - <p><b>Vacherin</b><br /> - <i>France and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery - rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six - by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. - When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish - called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety, - spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten - with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is - Tome de Montague.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 308 --><a name="Page_308" - id="Page_308"></a>II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. - Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the - No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the - dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."</p> - - <p>Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced - Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about - the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced - and reformed into Vacherin.</p> - - <p><b>Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du</b><br /> - <i>Andorra, France</i></p> - - <p>Sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Valdeblore, le</b><br /> - <i>Nice, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay</b><br /> - <i>Touraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season - from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.</p> - - <p><b>Valio</b><br /> - <i>Finland</i></p> - - <p>One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process - Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export - Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to - help them forget what real cheese is.</p> - - <p><b>Valsic</b><br /> - <i>Albania</i></p> - - <p>Crumbly and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Varalpenland</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.</p> - - <p><b>Varennes, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 309 --><a name="Page_309" - id="Page_309"></a> <b>Västerbottenost</b><br /> - <i>West Bothnia</i></p> - - <p>Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a - pungent, almost bitter taste.</p> - - <p><b>Västgötaost</b><br /> - <i>West Gothland, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. - Weight twenty to thirty pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Vendôme, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being - ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold - mostly in Paris.</p> - - <p><b>Veneto, Venezza</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Vic-en-Bigorre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Victoria</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.</p> - - <p><b>Ville Saint-Jacques</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Villiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.</p> - - <p><b>Viry-vory, or Vary</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Viterbo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, <i>Cynara - Scolymus</i>. Strong grating and seasoning type of the - Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.</p> - - <p><b>Vize</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Void</b><br /> - <i>Meuse, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 310 --><a name="Page_310" - id="Page_310"></a> <b>Volvet Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>The name means "full cream" cheese and that—according - to law—has 45% fat in the dry product (<i>See</i> - Gras.)</p> - - <p><b>Vorarlberg Sour-milk</b><br /> - <i>Greasy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with - extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is - made of sour milk.</p> - - <p><b>Vory, le</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit - Suisse.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_W" - id="AtoZ_W"></a><br /> - W</h3> - - <p><b>Warshawski Syr</b><br /> - <i>Poland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of - Poland.</p> - - <p><b>Warwickshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Derbyshire type.</p> - - <p><b>Washed-curd cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and - any abnormal flavors.</p> - - <p><b>Wedesslborg</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good - if fully ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Weisschmiere</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes - four months.</p> - - <p><b>Weisslacker, White Lacquer</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in - cylinders and rectangles, 4½ by 4 by 3½, weighing - 2½ pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Welsh cheeses</b></p> - - <p>The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the - ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild - Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a - factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some - farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting - sensuousness <!-- Page 311 --><a name="Page_311" - id="Page_311"></a>that is found in the poems of John - Keats.</p> - - <p>"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no - longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so - called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old - church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses - would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen - Evans, aged 72.'" (From <i>My Wales</i> by Rhys Davies.)</p> - - <p><b>Wensleydale</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. England, Yorkshire. - Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to</span><br /> - Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale - in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in - season from June to September. It is put up in the same - cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is - corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.</p> - - <p>II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from - January through the Spring, skipping the season when the - greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to - be made again in the fall and winter.</p> - - <p><b>Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>West Friesian</b><br /> - <i>Netherlands</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored - antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English - couplet:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Good bread, good butter and good - cheese<br /></span> <span>Is good English and good - Friese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 312 --><a name="Page_312" - id="Page_312"></a> <b>Westphalia Sour Milk, or - Brioler</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg - yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. - Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls - or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours - before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is - due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being - allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before - pressing.</p> - - <p>This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It - is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to - Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" - inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well - over a century ago.</p> - - <p>The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a - Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.</p> - - <p><b>Whale Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>In <i>The Cheddar Box,</i> Dean Collins tells of an ancient - legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be - milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy - fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk - cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the - whales.</p> - - <p><b>White, Fromage Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country - and eaten fresh, with or without salt.</p> - - <p><b>White Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White - Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 313 --><a name="Page_313" - id="Page_313"></a> <b>White Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <p>This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little - known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (<i>See</i> - Gorgonzola.)</p> - - <p><b>White Stilton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the - aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's - flag.</p> - - <p><b>Whitethorn</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the - same, except that it is colored.</p> - - <p><b>Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch</b><br /> - <i>Schleswig-Holstein, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; - made at Itzehoe.</p> - - <p><b>Wiltshire or Wilts</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. - (<i>See</i> North Wilts.)</p> - - <p><b>Wisconsin Factory Cheeses</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating - by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or - sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year - to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too - young.</p> - - <p>Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and - Swiss.</p> - - <p><b>Withania</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of - rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania - berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, - but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 314 --><a name="Page_314" - id="Page_314"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Y" - id="AtoZ_Y"></a><br /> - Y</h3> - - <p><b>Yoghurt, or Yogurt</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made with <i>Bacillus bulgaricus</i>, that develops the - acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint - Ivel.</p> - - <p><b>York, York Curd and Cambridge York</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which - are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type - is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw - mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.</p> - - <p><b>Yorkshire-Stilton</b><br /> - <i>Cotherstone, England</i></p> - - <p>This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age - a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a - general favorite with English epicures who like their game well - hung.</p> - - <p><b>York State</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Short for New York State, the most venerable of our - Cheddars.</p> - - <p><b>Young America</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Yo-yo</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone - hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar - on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_Z" - id="AtoZ_Z"></a><br /> - Z</h3> - - <p><b>Ziegel</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two - months.</p> - - <p><b>Ziegenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's - milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 315 --><a name="Page_315" - id="Page_315"></a> <b>Ziger</b></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. This whey product is - not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food</span><br /> - made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin - cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, - etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. - There is also a whey bread.</p> - - <p>II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk - instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small - cakes.</p> - - <p><b>Zips</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Zomma</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Zwirn</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 316 --><a name="Page_316" - id="Page_316"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/316.gif" - width="500" - height="237" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <h2>Index of Recipes</h2> - <!-- NOTE: Page Numbers in this document are numbered higher by 5 than - the numbers in the printed book, due to the title and table of contents pages. --> - - <p>American Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Angelic Camembert, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Apple and Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Apple Pie à la Cheese, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie Adorned, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - au Gratin<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggs, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Blintzes, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - Brie or Camembert Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - <br /> - Camembert, Angelic, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, - <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> - Cheddar Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Cheese and Nut Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Cheese and Pea Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Cheese Cake, Pineapple, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Cheese Charlotte, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Cheese Custard, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Pie, Open-faced, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Sauce, Plain, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Cheese Waffles, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Chicken Cheese Soup, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - Cottage Cheese Pancakes, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Christmas Cake Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Cold Dunking, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Custard, Cheese, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Dauphiny Ravioli, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Diablotins, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Dumpling, Napkin, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Dunking, Cold, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - <br /> - Eggs au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 317 --><a name="Page_317" - id="Page_317"></a> Flan au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Fondue<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à l'Italienne, - <a href="#Page_89">84</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American, - <a href="#Page_90">85</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baked Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brick, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - Quickie, <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar Dunk Bowl, - <a href="#Page_98">93</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, and Corn, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Rice, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chives, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Comtois, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel Style, - <a href="#Page_87">82</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">100% American, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rice, and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sapsago Swiss, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato - Baked,<a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vacherin-Fribourg, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - Fritters, Italian, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Fritto Misto, Italian, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - <br /> - Garlic on Cheese, <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - <br /> - Italian Asparagus and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Italian Fritters, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Italian Fritto Misto, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Italian-Swiss Scallopini, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Little Hats, Cappelletti, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Meal-in-One Omelet, A, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Miniature Pizzas, <a href="#Page_112">107</a><br /> - <br /> - Napkin Dumpling, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Omelet<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meal-in-One, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Cheese Sauce, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> - Onion Soup, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Onion Soup au Gratin, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Open-faced Cheese Pie, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Parmesan Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, - <a href="#Page_139">134</a><br /> - Pineapple Cheese Cake, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Piroghs, Polish, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Pizza, <a href="#Page_111">106</a><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dough, - <a href="#Page_111">106</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miniature, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Paste, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - Polish Piroghs, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Potatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Puffs<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Breakfast, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, New England, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish Fondue, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fried, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">New England Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Rabbit<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">After-Dinner, - <a href="#Page_60">55</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American Succotash, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Woodchuck, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anchovy, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asparagus, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 1 (with beer), - <a href="#Page_54">49</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 2 (with milk), - <a href="#Page_55">50</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blushing Bunny, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <!-- Page 318 --><a name="Page_318" - id="Page_318"></a> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Border-hopping Bunny, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bouquet of the Sea," - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buttermilk, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celery and Onion, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipped Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby Tomato, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Curry, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Devil's Own, The, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Maginn's, - <a href="#Page_59">54</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dried Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dutch, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Easy English, - <a href="#Page_83">78</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggnog, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fish, Fresh or Dried, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fluffy, Eggy, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frijole, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gherkin, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ginger Ale, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck II, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Sardine, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato and Onion, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gruyère, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kansas Jack, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Llanover's Toasted, - <a href="#Page_57">52</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Latin-American Corn, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mexican Chilaly, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Original Recipe, Ye, - <a href="#Page_62">57</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oven, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oyster, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pink Poodle, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pumpernickel, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reducing, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roe, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Running, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Plain, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savory Eggy Dry, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scotch Woodcock, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked fish, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">South African Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Sherry, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stieff Recipe, The, - <a href="#Page_56">51</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato and Onion, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Crumby, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Soup, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, South American, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yale College, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yorkshire, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> - Ramekins<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à la Parisienne, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Casserole, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese I, - <a href="#Page_106">101</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese II, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese III, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese IV, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frying Pan, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Morézien, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puff Paste, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss-Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - Ravioli, Dauphiny, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Roquefort, Champagned, <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 319 --><a name="Page_319" - id="Page_319"></a> Salad<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Cheese, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apple and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brie, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camembert, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Nut, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Pea, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gorgonzola and Banana, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Green Cheese Salad Julienne, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rosie's Swiss Breakfast - Cheese, <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One Mold, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - Sandwiches<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alpine Club, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boston Beany, Open-face, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheeseburgers, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deviled Rye, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">French-fried Swiss, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">He-man, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">International, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jurassiennes, or Croûtes - Comtoises, <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kümmelkäse, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limburger Onion, or Catsup, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meringue, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel and Honey, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oskar's Ham-Cam, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pickled Camembert, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queijo da Serra, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort Nut, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tangy, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unusual—of - Flowers, Hay and Clover, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vegetarian, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Witch's, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Xochomilco, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yolk Picnic, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - Sauce<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mornay, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parsleyed Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - Sauce Mornay, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - Schnitzelbank Pot, <a href="#Page_42">37</a><br /> - Soufflé<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Corn, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese Fritter, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Mushroom, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Potato, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Spinach, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spinach-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - Soup<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chicken Cheese, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, au Gratin, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Supa Shetgia, - <a href="#Page_138">133</a></span><br /> - Spanish Flan—Quesillo, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Straws, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Stuffed Celery, <a href="#Page_137">132</a><br /> - Supa Shetgia, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Swiss Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - Three-in-One Mold, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Tomato Omelet, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Tomatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - Vatroushki, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - <br /> - Waffles, Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a></p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <h2><a name="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR" - id="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR"></a> - <!-- Page 320 --><a name="Page_320" - id="Page_320"></a> <img src="images/320.gif" - width="125" - height="100" - alt="Illustration: house" /> ABOUT THE AUTHOR</h2> - <hr style="width: 75%;" /> - - <p>Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign - lands and enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, - returned to New York and summed them all up in this book.</p> - - <p>Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School - and entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment - when a number of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy - state began teaching their students how to hole an - Emmentaler.</p> - - <p>After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to - Munich, Bob celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book - called <i>Let There Be Beer!</i> and then decided to write - another about Beer's best friend, Cheese. But first he - collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose on <i>The Wine - Cookbook</i>, still in print after nearly twenty-five years. - This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's - dozen food-and-drink books, including: <i>America Cooks, 10,000 - Snacks, Fish and Seafood</i> and <i>The South American - Cookbook</i>.</p> - - <p>For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio - de Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, - from 1907 to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories - and serials under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of - his first books, <i>What Happened to Mary</i>, became a best - seller and was the first five-reel movie. This put him in - <i>Who's Who</i> in his early twenties.</p> - - <p>In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of - years spent in collecting books and bibelots throughout - <!-- Page 321 --><a name="Page_321" - id="Page_321"></a> the Orient, he settled down in Paris with - the expatriate group of Americans and invented the Reading - Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his - <i>Words</i> and Harry Crosby printed <i>1450-1950</i> at - the Black Sun Press, while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own - imprint Roving Eye Press, that turned out <i>Demonics; Gems, - a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding</i> and <i>Readies for - Bob Brown's Machine</i> with contributions by Gertrude - Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell <i>et - al.</i></p> - - <p>The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade - later he returned to Brazil that had long been his home away - from home. There he wrote <i>The Amazing Amazon</i>, with his - wife Rose, making a total of thirty books bearing his name.</p> - - <p>After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed - their mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New - York where he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village - of his free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working - library in a score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis - of a mail-order book business in which he specializes today in - food, drink and other out-of-the-way items.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><!-- Page 322 --><a name="Page_322" - id="Page_322"></a> [Compiler's Notes: Moved page on - author's other books from page 1 of project to follow - the title page.<br /> - Removed publisher's copyright information from page - 3.<br /> - Removed references to Introduction, as it was omitted from - the book project.<br /> - Added A to Z links to the Appendix in the Table of - Contents]</p> - </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293-h.htm or 14293-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -BOB BROWN - - -The Complete Book -of Cheese - - -_Illustrations by_ Eric Blegvad - -[Illustration] - -_Gramercy Publishing Company - -New York_ -1955 - - -_Author of_ - -THE WINE COOK BOOK - -AMERICA COOKS - -10,000 SNACKS - -SALADS AND HERBS - -THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK - -SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES - -THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK - -LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK! - -THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK - -THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ - -MOST FOR YOUR MONEY - -OUTDOOR COOKING - -FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK - -THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK - -_Co-author of Food and Drink Books by_ The Browns - -LET THERE BE BEER! - -HOMEMADE HILARITY - - - - -[Illustration: TO] - -TO - -PHIL - -ALPERT - -_Turophile Extraordinary_ - - - - -[Illustration: Contents] - -1 I Remember Cheese - -2 The Big Cheese - -3 Foreign Greats - -4 Native Americans - -5 Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - -6 The Fondue - -7 Souffles, Puffs and Ramekins - -8 Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes and Cheese Cake - -9 Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - -10 Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - -11 "Fit for Drink" - -12 Lazy Lou - - -APPENDIX--The A-B-Z of Cheese - -INDEX OF RECIPES - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter One_ - -I Remember Cheese - - -Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the -cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the -millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with a -hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of judging a -crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness for centuries. -The abracadabra is comparable to that of the wine-taster or -tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear of music-masters and, -merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down to an air pocket left by a -gas bubble just how mature the interior is. - -The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and I, too, -that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread handy and made my -way from one fine cheese to another, trying out generous plugs from -the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at -Antietam. - -I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I -stocked up on good Schweizerkaese and better Gruyere. For lunch I had -cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound -Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little cafe, -absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal quantities. I learned that a -prize cheese must be chock-full of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes -produced during fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar -glass. The cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its -flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement each other -as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There are, I learned, -"blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the million-eyed ones are better. - -But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for cheese -memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over the cheeses of -all nations, first importing them, then imitating them, from Swiss -Engadine to what we call Genuine Sprinz. We've naturalized -Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns and baptized our own Saaland -Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty popular Italian types we duplicate -more than half, some fairly well, others badly. - -We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the -Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield -County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy Neufchatel, New York Coon, -Vermont Sage, the delicious Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and -dozens of others, not all quite so original. - -And, true to the American way, we've organized cheese-eating. There's -an annual cheese week, and a cheese month (October). We even boast a -mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month Club. We haven't yet reached the point -of sophistication, however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets -regularly. To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred -basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded. - -This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I -have during the past year or two been sharpening my cheese perception -with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run -into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like -Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is one of -the greatest--and least competitively crowded--of sports. I hope this -book may lead others to give it a try. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Two_ - -The Big Cheese - - -One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed in at four -tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years ago. Another -monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in the New York State -Fair at Syracuse in 1937. - -Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way from New -Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of 1924. But, -compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a Baby Gouda. As a -matter of fact, neither England nor any of her great dairying colonies -have gone in for mammoth jobs, except Canada, with that four-tonner -shown at Toronto. - -We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can find out -all about them in _Cheddar Gorge,_ edited by Sir John Squire. The -first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the -year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its -heft almost tied the 147-pound Green County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss -presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation -of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 -percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under 150, His Royal -Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed high hat and all, was a -hundred-weight heavier, and thus almost dwarfed it. - -It was almost a century later that the second record-breaking Chester -weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it won a Gold Medal and a -Challenge Cup and was presented to the King, who graciously accepted -it. This was more than Queen Victoria had done with a bridal gift -cheese that tipped the scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's -yield from 780 contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, -measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The assembled -donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they asked royal -permission to exhibit it on a round of country fairs. The Queen -assented to this ambitious request, perhaps prompted by the -exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking cheesemongers assured -Her Majesty that the gift would be returned to her just as soon as it -had been exhibited. But the Queen didn't want it back after it was -show-worn. The donors began to quarrel among themselves about what to -do with the remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many -lost causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again. - -While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the better, -(much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is better than a pint), -there is a limit to the obesity of a block, ball or brick of almost -any kinds of cheese. When they pass a certain limit, they lack -homogeneity and are not nearly so good as the smaller ones. Today a -good magnum size for an exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize -Provolone, 280 pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw -crowds to any food-shop window. - -Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese Hall of -Fame and come down to us in song and story. For example, that four-ton -Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, James McIntyre, who doubled as -the local undertaker. - - We have thee, mammoth cheese, - Lying quietly at your ease; - Gently fanned by evening breeze, - Thy fair form no flies dare seize. - - All gaily dressed soon you'll go - To the greatest provincial show, - To be admired by many a beau - In the city of Toronto. - - May you not receive a scar as - We have heard that Mr. Harris - Intends to send you off as far as - The great world's show at Paris. - - Of the youth beware of these, - For some of them might rudely squeeze - And bite your cheek; then song or glees - We could not sing, oh, Queen of Cheese. - -An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was inspired by "The -Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of Cheshire." This was in the -summer of 1801 when the patriotic people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, -turned out en masse to concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green -for presentation to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique -demonstration occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the -greatest political triumph of a new country in a new century--the -victory of the Democrats over the Federalists. Its collective making -was heralded in Boston's _Mercury and New England Palladium_, -September 8, 1801: - - _The Mammoth Cheese_ - - AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD - - From meadows rich, with clover red, - A thousand heifers come; - The tinkling bells the tidings spread, - The milkmaid muffles up her head, - And wakes the village hum. - - In shining pans the snowy flood - Through whitened canvas pours; - The dyeing pots of otter good - And rennet tinged with madder blood - Are sought among their stores. - - The quivering curd, in panniers stowed, - Is loaded on the jade, - The stumbling beast supports the load, - While trickling whey bedews the road - Along the dusty glade. - - As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred, - The arid deserts roam, - Through trackless sands undaunted tread, - With skins of water on their head - To cheer their masters home, - - So here full many a sturdy swain - His precious baggage bore; - Old misers e'en forgot their gain, - And bed-rid cripples, free from pain, - Now took the road before. - - The widow, with her dripping mite - Upon her saddle horn, - Rode up in haste to see the sight - And aid a charity so right, - A pauper so forlorn. - - The circling throng an opening drew - Upon the verdant-grass - To let the vast procession through - To spread their rich repast in view, - And Elder J. L. pass. - - Then Elder J. with lifted eyes - In musing posture stood, - Invoked a blessing from the skies - To save from vermin, mites and flies, - And keep the bounty good. - - Now mellow strokes the yielding pile - From polished steel receives, - And shining nymphs stand still a while, - Or mix the mass with salt and oil, - With sage and savory leaves. - - Then sextonlike, the patriot troop, - With naked arms and crown, - Embraced, with hardy hands, the scoop, - And filled the vast expanded hoop, - While beetles smacked it down. - - Next girding screws the ponderous beam, - With heft immense, drew down; - The gushing whey from every seam - Flowed through the streets a rapid stream, - And shad came up to town. - -This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated today by -a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of Cheshire, located -between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route 8. - -Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of Cheshire -rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a token of fidelity -from the very heart of the people of this land to the great cause of -equal rights to all men." - -This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren -succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar mammoth cheese in -token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger -than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their -loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the -hall of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the -fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had eaten their -fill. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Three_ - -Foreign Greats - - _Ode to Cheese_ - - - God of the country, bless today Thy cheese, - For which we give Thee thanks on bended knees. - Let them be fat or light, with onions blent, - Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether scent - Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard - Let them, good Lord, at dawn be beaten hard. - And let their edges take on silvery shades - Under the moist red hands of dairymaids; - And, round and greenish, let them go to town - Weighing the shepherd's folding mantle down; - Whether from Parma or from Jura heights, - Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites, - Stamped with the mitre of a proud abbess. - Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of Bresse, - From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, - From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy! - Bless them, good Lord! Bless Stilton's royal fare, - Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyere. - - FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S TRANSLATION - OF A POEM BY M. Thomas Braun - - _Symphonie des Fromages_ - - A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with an ax, - stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss Gruyere - resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot There were Dutch Edams, - round and blood-red, and Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on - parade. Three Bries, side by side, suggested phases of the moon; - two of them, very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the - third, in its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And all the - while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely contempt upon - the other, through the glass of their crystal covers. - - Emile Zola - -In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture published Handbook -No. 54, entitled _Cheese Varieties and Descriptions,_ with this -comment: "There probably are only about eighteen distinct types or -kinds of natural cheese." All the rest (more than 400 names) are of -local origin, usually named after towns or communities. A list of the -best-known names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups -is given: - - Brick Gouda Romano - Camembert Hand Roquefort - Cheddar Limburger Sapsago - Cottage Neufchatel Swiss - Cream Parmesan Trappist - Edam Provolone Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta) - - -May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We -begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and -end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that -includes Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred. - - -The Blues that Are Green - -Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that rules a -world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as green as the -mythical cheese the moon is made of. - -In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a handful of -lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three and try to -classify them, until you're blue in the face. The best we can do in -this slight summary is to mention a few of the most notable, aside -from our own Blues of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and other states -that major in cheese. - -Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as "Flower of -Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass Blue all its own. -But France and England are the leaders in this line, France first with -a sort of triple triumvirate within a triumvirate--Septmoncel, Gex, -and Sassenage, all three made with three milks mixed together: cow, -goat and sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura -mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank -Roquefort. - -This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage persille, as -well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. Similar mountain cheeses are made -in Auvergne and Aubrac and have distinct qualities that have brought -them fame, such as Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de -Salers, and St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color -scheme, and sundry others such as Champoleon, Journiac, Queyras and -Sarraz. - -Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and -Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early days, and still -is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and -esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the -favorite of Thomas Hardy. - - -Brie - -Sheila Hibben once wrote in _The New Yorker:_ - -I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen -of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly -ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly -fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you -down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or -at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come -on the tenth Brie, _coulant_ to just the right, delicate creaminess, -and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with -it. - -The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only -months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar -none. - - -Caciocavallo - -From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo -translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the -Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations -are made and named after it, as follows: - - BULGARIA: Kascaval - - GREECE: Kashcavallo and Caskcaval - - HUNGARY: Parenica - - RUMANIA: Pentele and Kascaval - - SERBIA: Katschkawalj - - SYRIA: Cashkavallo - - TRANSYLVANIA: Kascaval (as in Rumania) - - TURKEY: Cascaval Penir - - YUGOSLAVIA: Kackavalj - -A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its popular name and -to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It is, however, curded -from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, and sometimes from water -buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery that the best of it, which comes -from Sorrento, is called _Cacio burro,_ butter cheese. Slightly salty, -with a spicy tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for -grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian pastes -but on sweets. - -Different from the many grating cheeses made from little balls of curd -called _grana_, Caciocavallo is a _pasta fileta_, or drawn-curd -product. Because of this it is sometimes drawn out in long thick -threads and braided. It is a cheese for skilled artists to make -sculptures with, sometimes horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and -other fruits, even as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and -often worked into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the -horse's head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob -on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a time, on -opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly golden and -rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the more buttery. - -In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the best comes -from Sorrento, there is keen competition from Abruzzi, Apulian -Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't spoil when shipped -overseas. - -In his _Little Book of Cheese_ Osbert Burdett recommends the high, -horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over tobacco smoke after dinner: - - Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me that - Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, some pungency - is necessary, and confidence suggests rather Cacio which would - survive anything, the monster said. - -Camembert - -Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine is labeled -_Syndicat du Vrai Camembert_. The name in full is _Syndicat des -Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de Normandie_ and we agree that this -is "a most useful association for the defense of one of the best -cheeses of France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, -except perhaps by Brie. - -Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the waitress who -first served it to him in the tiny town of Camembert. And there a -statue stands today in the market place to honor Marie Harel who made -the first Camembert. - -Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, pineapple, pear, -French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie and with oysters, -Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" months, and of these -September is the best. - -Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the _veritable_ -don't fall for a domestic imitation or any West German abomination -such as one dressed like a valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled -"Camembert--Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, chalky with -youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and decrepit. - -Cheddar - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ says: - - Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale coloured, - mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a hazelnut in flavour. - The Cheddar principle pervades the whole cheesemaking districts - of America, Canada and New Zealand, but no cheese imported into - England can equal the Cheddars of Somerset and the West of - Scotland. - -Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first -manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse Cheddar, but in -America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be -ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our -American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote -that it "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, -according to magnitude) with any cheese in England." - -Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second after -Stilton, of course. - -In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of family -feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can be kept for -two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool room and turned -over every other day." - -But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... I asked -one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her eyes twinkled: -'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'" - -Cheshire - -A Cheshireman sailed into Spain -To trade for merchandise; -When he arrived from the main -A Spaniard him espies. -Who said, "You English rogue, look here! -What fruits and spices fine -Our land produces twice a year. -Thou has not such in thine." - -The Cheshireman ran to his hold -And fetched a Cheshire cheese, -And said, "Look here, you dog, behold! -We have such fruits as these. -Your fruits are ripe but twice a year, -As you yourself do say, -But such as I present you here -Our land brings twice a day." - -Anonymous - - Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far - too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the inn, of the - chophouse, of the average English home, is a libel on a thing - which, when authentic, is worthy of great honor. Cheshire, - divinely commanded into existence as to three parts to precede - and as to one part to accompany certain Tawny Ports and some - Late-Bottled Ports, can be a thing for which the British Navy - ought to fire a salute on the principle on which Colonel Brisson - made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian - vineyard. - - T. Earle Welby, - - IN "THE DINNER KNELL" - -Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, but the -oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar conquered Britain, and -tradition is that the Romans built the walled city of Chester to -control the district where the precious cheese was made. Chester on -the River Dee was a stronghold against the Roman invasion. - -It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan times and -waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the Fleet Street Inn -where White Cheshire was served "with radishes or watercress or celery -when in season," and Red Cheshire was served toasted or stewed in a -sort of Welsh Rabbit. (_See_ Chapter 5.) - -The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in -_Cheddar Gorge_ suggests that "it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, -discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that -accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in -Alice in Wonderland." - -All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet: - - _Dans le Chester sec et rose - A longues dents, l'Anglais mord._ - - In the Chester dry and pink - The long teeth of the English sink. - -Edam and Gouda - _Edam in Peace and War_ - -There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men -on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, -excellent cheeses. - -Pepys' _Diary_, March 2,1663 - - Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of - the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland - cheese for cannon balls. - - _The Harbinger_ (Vermont), December 11, 1847 - -The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world. -Known as "red balls" in England and _katzenkopf,_ "cat's head," in -Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being -round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas. - -Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is -horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the -ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese -potted with sauterne. Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to -develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for -Edam. - -The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed -(black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of -Friesland and Noord Holland). - -The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, -come from South Holland. Some are specially made for the Jewish trade -and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes -thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on -black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're -also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa. - -"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides. - -Emmentaler, Gruyere and Swiss - - When the working woman - Takes her midday lunch, - It is a piece of Gruyere - Which for her takes the place of roast. - -Victor Meusy - -Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkaese, grand Gruyere from -France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and -glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making -and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size -of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye -of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear. - -Gruyere does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen -cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them; -let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This -variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes -at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles. - -Gruyere Trauben (Grape Gruyere) is aged in Neuchatel wine in -Switzerland, although most Gruyere has been made in France since its -introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and -another is called Comte from its origin in Franche-Comte. - -A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to Italy where -it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese called Raper, and -now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, in fact, because of its -piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable quality, is simulated -everywhere, even in Switzerland. - -Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as Finland, we -get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with -all possible faults--from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly -cheese, to too few--cracked, dried-up, collapsed or utterly ruined by -molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked -genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six -years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever. - -Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in cheese -cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in France), and -it is said that the rank of a family is determined by the age and -quality of the cheese in its larder. - - -Feta and Casere - -The Greeks have a name for it--Feta. Their neighbors call it Greek -cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to honey. The two together -make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and as blinding white as a plate of -fresh Ricotta smothered with sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by -shipping the cheese all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of -milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in -brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat -sharp, but superbly spicy. - -When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping -through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos -Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then -compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This -gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made -us bleat for more Feta. - - -Gorgonzola - -Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including -Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all -other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many -epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the -highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it -has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when -fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich -green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is -eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort. - - -Hable Creme Chantilly - -The name Hable Creme Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is -Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package: -"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful -freshness." - -This exclusive product of the Walk Gaerd Creamery was hailed by Sheila -Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as -Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a -new star: - - Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest - that the arrival of Creme Chantilly is a historic event and that - in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that - the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady - of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on - the first Camembert. - -Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage a la creme made in -Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish -triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is -a very special product that has never been made on this earth before," -and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, -"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor -combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have -come my way in a long time." - -And so say we--all of us. - -Hand Cheese - -Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we -consider it great, but because it is usually included among the -eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is -named from having been molded into its final shape by hand. -Universally popular with Germanic races, it is too strong for the -others. To our mind, Hand cheese never had anything that Allgaeuer or -Limburger hasn't improved upon. - -It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of beer and -drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with caraway seeds, the -most natural spice for curds. - - -Limburger - -Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it was -brought over by German-American immigrants; but England never took to -it. This is eloquently expressed in the following entry in the English -_Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_: - - Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently offensive - odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed to partially - decompose before pressing. It is very little known in this - country, and might be less so with advantage to consumers. - -But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has brought -gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes since it came to -light in the province of Luettich in Belgium. It has been Americanized -for almost a century and is by now one of the very few cheeses -successfully imitated here, chiefly in New York and Wisconsin. - -Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green -County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan -that was accustomed to park in the little town of Monroe where it was -marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump -the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were -left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The Limburger was -finally stored safely underground. - - -Livarot - -Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine of them -all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem dedicated to all the -great French cheeses, of which we give a free translation: - - In the dog days - In its overflowing dish - Livarot gesticulates - Or weeps like a child. - - -Muenster - - At the diplomatic banquet - One must choose his piece. - All is politics, - A cheese and a flag. - - You annoy the Russians - If you take Chester; - You irritate the Prussians - In choosing Muenster. - - -Victor Meusy - -Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, does not -fare well in England. Although over here we consider Muenster far -milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in _When Madame -Cooks_ will have none of it: - -I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes -during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have -proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill -people permanently. - - -Neufchatel - - If the cream cheese be white - Far fairer the hands that made them. - - Arthur Hugh Clough - -Although originally from Normandy, Neufchatel, like Limburger, was so -long ago welcomed to America and made so splendidly at home here that -we may consider it our very own. All we have against it is that it has -served as the model for too many processed abominations. - -Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano - -Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on bread. But -when well aged, let us say up to a century, it becomes Rock of -Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for grating. It is easy to -believe that the so-called "Spanish cheese" used as a barricade by -Americans in Nicaragua almost a century ago was none other than the -almost indestructible Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy. - -The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. days with -the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers not only for its -energy value but as a convenient form of rations, since every army -travels on its stomach and can't go faster than its impedimenta. The -last notable mention of cheese in war was the name of the _Monitor_: -"A cheese box on a raft." - -Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, -sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups such as onion and -minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged. - -Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both Parmesan -and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in Argentina. Romano -and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names for the strong, -medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that sell for considerably -less. Most of it is now shipped from Sardinia. There are several -different kinds: Pecorino Dolce (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino -Romano Cacio, which relates it to Caciocavallo. - -Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of Pecorino are -soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., in her "Letter from -Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable _Little Book of Cheese_, writes: - - Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, had - provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread and a slab - of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any "thou" for either) ... - But that cheese was Paradise; and the flask was emptied, and a - wood dove cooing made you think that the flask's contents were in - a crystal goblet instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and - the cheese broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses. - - -Pont L'Eveque - -This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic made since -the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert cheese whose -excellence is brought out best by a sound claret or tawny port. - - -Port-Salut (_See_ Trappist) - - -Provolone - -Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as -Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchatel and such great -ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here -because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable -in the Americas. - -With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is put up in -all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, pears, bells, a -regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of sizes, up to a monumental -hundred-pound bas-relief imported for exhibition purposes by Phil -Alpert. - - -Roquefort - -Homage to this _fromage!_ Long hailed as _le roi_ Roquefort, it has -filled books and booklets beyond count. By the miracle of _Penicillium -Roqueforti_ a new cheese was made. It is placed historically back -around the eighth century when Charlemagne was found picking out the -green spots of Persille with the point of his knife, thinking them -decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, recorded in -their annals that when they regaled him with Roquefort (because it was -Friday and they had no fish) they also made bold to tell him he was -wasting the best part of the cheese. So he tasted again, found the -advice excellent and liked it so well he ordered two _caisses_ of it -sent every year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested -that it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with -blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening. - -Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from mice and -rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be expected to send an -escort of cats from their chalky caves to guard them--even for -Charlemagne. There is no telling how many cats were mustered out in -the caves, in those early days, but a recent census put the number at -five hundred. We can readily imagine the head handler in the caves -leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster -and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese -also employ cats to patrol their storage caves, Roquefort holds the -record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as -rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown -away but greatly prized. - - -Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese - -The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for whey -cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, a kind of -clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from Switzerland in a hard, -truncated cone wrapped in a piece of paper that says: - - To be used grated only - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese - Made of skimmed milk and herbs - - To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? Try the - contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading mixed with butter, - excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, spaghetti, potatoes, soup, - etc. Can be used in place of any other cheese. _Do not take too - much, you might spoil the flavor_. - -We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an envelope, -and to this day, six months later, the scent of Sapsago clings 'round -it still. - - -Stilton - - _Honor for Cheeses_ - - Literary and munching circles in London are putting quite a lot - of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton cheese. There is a - Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir John Squire at the head, and - already the boys are fighting. - - One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument. - - This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton itself, - although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a pretty effective - cheese-shaped figure and call it "Dolorosa." - - The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who first - introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group showing Mrs. - Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and introducing it, - while the Stilton curtsies.) - - T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a monument, - but wants to establish a Foundation for the Preservation of - Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this plan would depend - largely on the site selected for the treasure house and the cost - of obtaining a curator who could, or would, give his whole time - to the work. - - Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, agrees with - Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best form. - - "I should like," he says, "something irrelevant--gargoyles, - perhaps." - - I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there. - - I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this great - movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube Goldberg. - - If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be established - between England and America, although the exchange, in the case - of Stilton, would have to be all on England's side. - - We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while England - furnishes the cheese. - - There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two - countries. - - Robert Benchley, in _After 1903--What?_ - -When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an endless -after-dinner conversation piece to which England points with pride. -For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's -introduction to this book. - - -Taleggio and Bel Paese - -When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported Bel Paese -some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to America. But as the -years went on and imitations were made in many lands, Galbini deemed -it wise to set up his own factory in _our_ beautiful country. However, -the domestic Bel Paese and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino -just didn't have that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the -German copy called Schoenland, after the original, or the French Fleur -des Alpes. - -Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked up the -market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini hit the -jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the sharpest, most -sophisticated pungence of them all. - - -Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka - -In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. Always of the -elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du Salut from the -original home of the Trappist monks in their chief French abbey, it is -also set apart from the ordinary Canadians under the name of Oka, from -the Trappist monastery there. It is made by Trappist monks all over -the world, according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist -Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in Kentucky. - -This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You can't go wrong -if you look for the monastery name stamped on, such as Harze in -Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, -and so forth. - -Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without benefit -of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the Lion Brand. It -is one of the finest American cheeses in which we have ever sunk a -fang. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Four_ - -Native Americans - - -American Cheddars - -The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around Plymouth by -Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese from the homeland -but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof of our ability to -manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the fact that by 1790 we were -exporting it back to England. - -It was called Cheddar after the English original named for the village -of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it made a new name -for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the section of New York State -where it was first made best. Herkimer still equals its several -distinguished competitors, Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, -Pineapple, Sage, Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn. - -The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, Cheddar, while -here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its -prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese -because of its affinity for the all-American dessert. - -The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in Rome, New -York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer County Cheddar -already widely known, this established "New York" as the preferred -"store-boughten" cheese. - -An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer Wooden Nutmeg -Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting book, _They Broke the -Prairies_. A Yankee named Silvanus Ferris, "the most successful -dairyman of Herkimer County," in the first decades of the 1800's -teamed up with Robert Nesbit, "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They -bought from farmers in the region and sold in New York City. And -"according to the business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to -cheapen the cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a -bad market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived in -a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, the seller, -unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the market price, snapped -up the offer. - -Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market, -so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years -fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer, -Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack. - -Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured, -and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and -described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their -states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and -Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon -and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of -Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as -Cheddars at all, although they are basically that. - - -Brick - -Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives -America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too -close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its -crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more -distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our -opinion is less worth bragging about. - -It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and -melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its -taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this -has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most -appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To -make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added. - -About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County, -Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole -cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked -firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in -the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of -bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this -double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to -the confusion about which came first in originating the name. - -The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and -they ripen slowly, taking up to two months. - -We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from -Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York. - -Colorado Blackie Cheese - -A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese -map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles -Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. This is a proud new -American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in -England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable -characters all on their own. - - -Coon Cheese - -Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at a higher -temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from the growth of -mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more ordinary Cheddars to -make them look like Coon, which always brings a 10 percent premium -above the general run. - -Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from a host of -admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in Phineas Beck's -_Kitchen_, who raised it to the par of French immortals by calling it -Fromage de Coon. Clementine used it "with scintillating success in -countless French recipes which ended with the words _gratiner au four -et servir tres chaud_. She made _baguettes_ of it by soaking sticks -three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in lukewarm -milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs and browning -them instantaneously in boiling oil." - - -Herkimer County Cheese - -The standard method for making American Cheddar was established in -Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been rigidly maintained -down to this day. Made with rennet and a bacterial "starter," the curd -is cut and pressed to squeeze out all of the whey and then aged in -cylindrical forms for a year or more. - -Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, sharp and -nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale -orange color when it is properly aged. - - -Isigny - -Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It seems to be -extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, for it never meant -to be anything more than another Camembert, of which we have plenty of -imitation. - -Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect Isigny. -The curd was carefully prepared according to an original formula, -washed and rubbed and set aside to come of age. But when it did, alas, -it was more like Limburger than Camembert, and since good domestic -Limburger was then a dime a pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet -in shape the newborn resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. -So they cut it down and named it after the delicate French Creme -d'lsigny. - - -Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack - -Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California county -where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, and only now -takes its full name after sixty years of popularity on the West Coast. -Because it is little known in the East and has to be shipped so far, -it commands the top Cheddar price. - -Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto coloring. -It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it gets sharper -with age and more expensive because of storage costs. - - -Liederkranz - -No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and so -deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of Song." - -Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young delicatessen -keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an -imitation of Bismarck Schlosskaese. This was imperative because the -imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and -Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz singing -society, didn't feel like singing without it. But Emil's attempts at -imitation only added indigestion to their dejection, until one -day--_fabelhaft!_ One of those cheese dream castles in Spain came -true. He turned out a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow -little marvel that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old -Schlosskaese. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized Limburger, both a -man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious women adored. - -Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz customers. It soon -became as internationally known as tabasco from Texas or Parisian -Camembert which it slightly resembles. Borden's bought out Frey in -1929 and they enjoy telling the story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E -Day in Paris, sent to his family in Indiana, only a few miles from the -factory at Van Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was -"the finest cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, -there was Liederkranz. - -Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between -two foreign immortals in the following recipe: - - - Schnitzelbank Pot - -1 ripe Camembert cheese -1 Liederkranz -1/8 pound imported Roquefort -1/4 pound butter -1 tablespoon flour -1 cup cream -1/2 cup finely chopped olives -1/4 cup canned pimiento -A sprinkling of cayenne - - Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of Camembert - and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any thick part off, - or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the - Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix - into an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will - turn the cheese black in cooking. - - Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a smooth, - creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, and mix in the - olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle well with cayenne and - put into a pot to mellow for a few days, or much longer. - -The name _Schnitzelbank_ comes from "school bench," a game. This -snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party and stein songs. -It is also the affinity-spread with rye and pumpernickel, and may be -served in small sandwiches or on crackers, celery and such, to make -appetizing tidbits for cocktails, tea, or cider. - -Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is eaten best at -room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If kept in the -refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of hours before serving. -Since it is a natural cheese mixture, which has gone through no -process or doping with preservative, it will not keep more than two -weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is the sort of ideal the factory -processors shoot at with their olive-pimiento abominations. Once -you've potted your own, you'll find it gives the same thrill as -garnishing your own Liptauer. - - -Minnesota Blue - -The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the Mississippi, -in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has established a -distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the state. Although the -Roquefort process of France is followed and the cheese is inoculated -in the same way by mold from bread, it can never equal the genuine -imported, marked with its red-sheep brand, because the milk used in -Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, and the caves are sandstone instead of -limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right. - - -Pineapple - -Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its flavor, -although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is noticeable -near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate through to the -Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese have tampered with the -original, so today you can't be sure of anything except getting a -smaller size every year or two, at a higher price. Originally six -pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk to nearly six ounces. The proper -bright-orange, oiled and shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly -lemon. - -Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the side-board -under a silver bell also made to represent a pineapple. You cut a top -slice off the cheese, just as you would off the fruit, and there was a -rose-colored, fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a -special silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was -put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept the -cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the rind the -shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some salubrious cold -Fondue or salad. - -Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked harder, -Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net that makes -diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, simulating the sections of -the fruit. It is a pioneer American product with almost a century and -a half of service since Lewis M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in -Litchfield County, Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and -made a deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what -before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese. - -Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in old England, -also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the hanging up of -Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four -sustaining strings. - - - Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State - -The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called originally, -shows the several phases most cheeses have gone through, from their -simple, honest beginnings to commercialization, and sometimes back to -the real thing. - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ has an early Sage -recipe: - - This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and - greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it is given thus: - Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage leaves with an equal - quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze out the juice. Add this to - the extract of rennet and stir into the milk as much as your - taste may deem sufficient. Break the curd when it comes, salt it, - fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn - the cheese every day. - -_Fancy Cheese in America, lay_ Charles A. Publow, records the -commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a century or two -later, in 1910: - - Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar variety. Its - distinguishing features are a mottled green color and a sage - flavor. The usual method of manufacture is as follows: One-third - of the total amount of milk is placed in a vat by itself and - colored green by the addition of eight to twelve ounces of - commercial sage color to each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn - leaves (unavailable in England) or other substances are used for - coloring, the amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then - made up by the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the whey - the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, however, to mix - the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is - secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed - over the curd with an atomizer. The curd is then salted and - pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes. - - A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York State - College of Agriculture by simply dropping green coloring, made - from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after - milling. An even green mottling is thus easily secured without - additional labor. Sage flavoring extract is sprayed over the curd - by an atomizer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient - for a hundred pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses. - -A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) method: - - Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at present the - cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild sage because it has - the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, thujone, is diluted with - water, 250 parts to one, and either added to the milk or sprayed - over the curds, one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk. - -In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing today, we -wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this reply: - - Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best native - Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only one factory - making it and that is my friend, George Crowley's. He makes a - limited amount for my Vermont Country Store. It is the fine - old-time full cream cheese, flavored with real sage. - - On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get enough sage - cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin cheesemaker if he - would make some. Said he would but couldn't at that time--because - the alfalfa wasn't ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to - do with sage cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese - with a synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green." - - So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw George - Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We don't use - synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that." - - "Then what do you use, George?" I inquired. - - "We use real sage." - - "Why?" - - "Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic stuff." - -The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on it: - - Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to full - flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor recalling - smoked cheese, although not related in any way. Mildly resinous - like that Near East one packed in pine, suggesting the well-saged - dressing of a turkey. A round mouthful of luscious mellowness, - with a bouquet--a snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just - a soupcon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of herb to - delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is the _veritable - vert_, green cheese--the moon is made of it! _Vert veritable._ A - general favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for - generations of lusty crumblers. - - -Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese - -We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together with some -Vermont store cheese and some crackers. - - This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store cheese--it's been - in old country stores for generations and we have been pioneers - in spreading the word about it. It is, of course, a natural aged - cheese, no processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made - the same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and also has - holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages faster. - - Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth century - and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading cheesemaking - state in the Union? When I was a lad, every town in Vermont had - one or more cheese factories. Now there are only two left--not - counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese! - - The crackers are the old-time store cracker--every Vermonter - used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and - eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold - milk, with a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These crackers are - not sweet, not salt, and as such make a good base for - anything--swell with clam chowder, also with toasted cheese.... - - -Tillamook - -It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to record the -story of Oregon's great Tillamook. _The Cheddar Box_, by Dean Collins, -comes neatly boxed and bound in golden cloth stamped with a purple -title, like the rind of a real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled _Cheese -Cheddar_, and Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled -Tillamook and molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume -I from a noted _litterateur_, and never could get him to come across -with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from a note on the -flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an excellent cheese, full -cream and medium sharp, and a unique set of books in which Volume II -suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are to be tasted, others to be -swallowed, and some few to be chewed and digested.'" - - -Wisconsin Longhorn - -Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it is only -fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of national standard, -even though it's not nearly so fancy or high-priced as some of the -regional natives that can't approach its enormous output. It's one of -those all-purpose round cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. -We are specially partial to it. - -Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all of these -thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as -Wisconsin alone. - -Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional competitors -ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no annatto coloring has been -added, through Green Bay cheese to Wisconsin Redskin and Martha -Washington Aged, proudly set forth by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who -is said to have "won more prizes in forty years than any ten -cheesemakers put together." - -To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie cheese, -the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, recognizing the -truth of Eugene Field's jingle: - - Apple pie without cheese - Is like a kiss without a squeeze. - -Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made legal and -the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. It's still in -force: - - _Butter and cheese to be served._ Every person, firm or - corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or restaurant shall - serve with each meal for which a charge of twenty-five cents or - more is made, at least two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin butter - and two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin cheese. - -Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces so much -Swiss that the state is sometimes called Swissconsin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Five_ - -Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - - - That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even - now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all - its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, - metaphysics and poetry. - - Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE - - -Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch -your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your -Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden -_fromages_ such as Gruyere, Neufchatel, Parmesan, and mixtures -thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the -Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, -to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no -matter how you slice it. - -Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American -trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe -marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled -red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the -traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are -out of focus, out of order and out of this world. - -Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by -braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these -degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer -or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down -with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank -goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum -Turn Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream. - -In view of all this, we can only look to the standard cookbooks for -salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, our thoughtful mothers, -wives and sweethearts who have saved the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If -it weren't for these Fanny Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal -Welsh Rabbit would be a lost art--lost in sporting male attempts to -improve upon the original. - -The girls are still polite about the whole thing and protectively -pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to "Rarebit" in their -culinary guides. We have heard that once a club of ladies in high -society tried to high-pressure the publishers of Mr. Webster's -dictionary to change the old spelling in their favor. Yet there is a -lot to be said for this more genteel and appetizing rendering of the -word, for the Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of -cheesemongery, male or female. - -Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more -than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of Rabbits: No. 1, -the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made -with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, -there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking -encyclopedias give up to a dozen variants. Actually there are easily -half a gross of valid ones in current esteem. - -The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid ingredient, but -both the beer and the milk are used only one way--warm, or anyway at -room temperature. And again for the two, there is but one traditional -cheese--Cheddar, ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This -is also called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin -Longhorn, mouse, and even rat. - -The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes dozens of -varieties under different names, regional or commercial. These are -easily identified as sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses: - - sight: Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's one of those - round cheeses that also tastes round in the mouth. - - hearing: By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a melon-picker, - can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready for the Rabbit. - When you hear your dealer say, "It's six months old or more," - enough said. - - smell: A scent as fresh as that of the daisies and herbs the - mother milk cow munched "will hang round it still." Also a slight - beery savor. - - touch: Crumbly--a caress to the fingers. - - taste: The quintessence of this fivefold test. Just cuddle a - crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the taste buds it's - prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's proof it will melt in - the pan. - -Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 -temperance alternative) we must point out that beer has a special -affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in -their names for Welsh Rabbit, _Fromage Fondue a la Biere_ and _Fondue -a l'Anglaise_. - -To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may have a -preference all his own, for here the question comes up of how it melts -best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, chop, cut, scrape or -crumble it in the fingers? This will vary according to one's -temperament and the condition of the cheese. Generally, for best -results it is coarsely grated. When it comes to making all this into a -rare bit of Rabbit there is: - - -The One and Only Method - -Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding aluminum -and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering water in the -lower one, but don't let the water boil up or touch the top pan. - -Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of butter or -margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly grated cheese, -usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with one-half cup of -liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't necessary for a cheese that -should melt by itself.) - -The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together and kept -from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction only, over an even -heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, sterling silver or -porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft metal--the taste may come -off to taint the job. - -Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and add it -gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let it come to -the bubbling point, and never let it boil. - -Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will take two or -three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an -instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is -smooth. The consistency and velvety smoothness depend a good deal on -whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added. - -The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle the top -with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any case set it forth -as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast hellishly hot, whether it's -browned or buttered on one side or both. - -Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name was -Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." Something very -similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to cool down--when it's -cold it's cold all over, and you can't resuscitate it by heating. - - -BASIC WELSH RABBIT - - No. 1 (with beer) - -2 tablespoons butter -3 cups grated old Cheddar -1/2 teaspoon English dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with -1/2 cup light beer or ale -4 slices hot buttered toast - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, stirring - steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon in one - direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt your rhythmic - stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of the beer-and-egg - mixture until it's all used up. - - It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve the - essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick it out as - smooth as velvet. - - Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit - is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of - cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting stringy or rubbery. - Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast - and serve instantly on hot plates. - -Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and some -aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side with cold -butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot plate, buttered -side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous untoasted side so it -can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady Llanover's recipe, which -appears on page 52 of this book.) - -Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, there is now -no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, -croutons and crackers, to infinity. - - - No. 2 (with milk) - -For a rich milk Rabbit use 1/2 cup thin cream, evaporated milk, -whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. Then, to -keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or leave -it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, the -use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our feeling is -that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out. - -Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and more -cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against stringiness. -When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that a teaspoon or so of -cornstarch generally takes its place. - -Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and stirring, -so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience and rhythm. As a -rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is almost melted, and speed -of stirring slows when the eggs and last ingredients go in. - -Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps up the -flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half -teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you -are fancy-free. As both black and white pepper are now held in almost -equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do -the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco -sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but some addicts can't -leave it out any more than they can swear off the Worcestershire. - -The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that goes for -milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So let us consider -the compromise of our old friend Frederick Philip Stieff, the -Baltimore _homme de bouche_, as he set it forth for us years ago in -_10,000 Snacks_: "The idea of cooking a Rabbit with beer is an -exploded and dangerous theory. Tap your keg or open your case of ale -or beer and serve _with_, not in your Rabbit." - - - The Stieff Recipe BASIC MILK RABBIT (_completely -surrounded by a lake of malt beverages_) - -2 cups grated sharp cheese -3 heaping tablespoons butter -1-1/2 cups milk -4 eggs -1 heaping tablespoon mustard -2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce -Pepper, salt and paprika to taste--then add more of each. - - Grease well with butter the interior of your double boiler so - that no hard particles of cheese will form in the mixture later - and contribute undesirable lumps. - - Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add butter - and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should be indulged in - until Rabbit is ready for serving. - - Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, pepper, salt - and paprika. These should be beaten until light and then slowly - poured into the double boiler. Nothing now remains to be done - except to stir and cook down to proper consistency over a fairly - slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the - rabbit from the spoon and spell the word _finis_ on the surface. - Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who - does not attack it at once. - - This is sufficient for six gourmets or four gourmands. - -_Nota bene_: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should never be of the -consistency whereby it may be used to tie up bundles, nor yet should -it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor. - - - Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit - - Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and cow's - milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so much as to - drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread less than 1/4 - inch thick, to be quite crisp, and spread it very thinly with - fresh, cold butter on the toasted side. (It must not be - saturated.) Lay the toasted cheese upon the untoasted bread side - and serve immediately on a very hot plate. The butter on the - toast can, of course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten - without butter.) - -From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen still call -Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover goes on to point out -that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and the Melted or Stewed Buck -Rabbit of England (which has become our American standard) are as -different in the making as the regional cheeses used in them, and she -says that while doctors prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for -invalids, the stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to -strong digestions." - -English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese of Wales -and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent "threads of -unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments (that may be pulled -from its tough and tenacious substance)." - -Yet not all of the references are complimentary. - -Thus Shakespeare in _King Lear_: - - Look, look a mouse! - Peace, peace;--this piece of toasted cheese will do it. - -And Sydney Smith's: - - Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted - meat has led to suicide. - -But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: - - _The Welsh Enter Heaven_ - - The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth of good - singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear excellent - singing outside the walls. Why are not those singers here with - me?" - - St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they - say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" - - The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and - Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." - - St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands of the - Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, St. Peter went - to consult with St. David, who, with a smile, was reading the - works of Caradoc Evans. - - St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just inside the - gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in front of it" This - St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the sizzling, browning - cheese was wafted over the walls and, with loud shouts, a great - concourse of the Welsh came sprinting in. When sufficient were - inside to make up a male voice choir of a hundred, St Peter - slammed the gates. However, it is said that these are the only - Welsh in Heaven. - -And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice grow and grow -to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but -toasted cheese. - -Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme: - - The Irishman loved usquebaugh, - The Scot loved ale called Bluecap. - The Welshman, he loved toasted cheese, - And made his mouth like a mousetrap. - - The Irishman was drowned in usquebaugh, - The Scot was drowned in ale, - The Welshman he near swallowed a mouse - But he pulled it out by the tail. - -And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, this tune in -_Merry Wives of Windsor_: - - 'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted cheese. - -An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English with Dr. -William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen enlivened the -_Blackwoods Magazine_ era with _Ten Tales_: - - [Illustration] Dr. Maginn's Rabbit - - Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for supper. It is - the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy eating. I like it best - in the genuine Welsh way, however--that is, the toasted bread - buttered on both sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef - with mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire _thoroughly_ saturated, while, in the - process of toasting, with genuine porter, black pepper, and - shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the assertion that this is - not a heavy supper for a man who has been busy all day till - dinner in reading, writing, walking or riding--who has occupied - himself between dinner and supper in the discussion of a bottle - or two of sound wine, or any equivalent--and who proposes to - swallow at least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper. - -The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct -summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master." - -The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper sandwich -was served, a century and a half ago; for it was served as a savory to -sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form: - - - After-Dinner Rabbit - - Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides and soak - to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of sharp old cheese - in butter in an iron skillet, with an added spot of beer and dry - English mustard. Stir steadily with a wooden spoon and, when - velvety, serve a-sizzle on piping hot beer-soaked toast. - -While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy dish of -Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in Elizabethan -London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also called a Buck Rabbit, -was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where Dr. -Johnson later presided. And it must have been the pick of the town -back in the days when barrooms still had sawdust on the floor, for the -learned Doctor endorsed old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: -"There is nothing which has been contrived by man by which so much -happiness is produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as -may be judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to -"a baby's ear dropped in sawdust." - -Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the world's first -Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't have to look far for -on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of letters at "The Cheese," as -it was affectionately called. To a man they sang praises for that -piping hot dish of preserved and beatified milk. - -Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester of -_Punch_, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to the memory of -Lovelace: - - Champagne will not a dinner make, - Nor caviar a meal - Men gluttonous and rich may take - Those till they make them ill - If I've potatoes to my chop, - And after chop have cheese, - Angels in Pond and Spiers's shop - Know no such luxuries. - -All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a reasonable -substitute. The base of this is what was once quaintly called a -"hot-water bath." This was a sort of miniature wash boiler just big -enough to fit in snugly half a dozen individual tins, made squarish -and standing high enough above the bath water to keep any of it from -getting into the stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since -such a tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of -fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or even -small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler or chafing -dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the "cheese stewer" in -stainless steel, silver or glass. - -In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, "bubbling -and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding that's still famous. -Although down the centuries the recipe has been kept secret, the -identifiable ingredients have been itemized as follows: "Tender steak, -savory oyster, seductive kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent -pepper and delicate paste"--not to mention mushrooms. And after the -second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, bitter, or -the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a dented pewter pot, -"the stewed Cheshire cheese." - -Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by tradition and -appetite from the time when Charles II aled and regaled Nell Gwyn at -"The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to have sampled this "kind of -a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served piping hot in the square shallow -tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately -colored toast." - -Among early records is this report of Addison's in _The Spectator_ of -September 25,1711: - - They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about midnight, when - the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. He that yawns widest, - and at the same time so naturally as to produce the most yawns - amongst his spectators, carries home the cheese. - -Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of Simpson's in the -Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest that drew crowds to his -fashionable eating and drinking place. He would set forth a huge -portion of cheese and wager champagne and cigars for the house that no -one present could correctly estimate the weight, height and girth of -it. - -As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson to "The -Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met there, showed -that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was tuppence, and that this -was also the amount of the usual tip. - - - Ye Original Recipe - -1-1/2 ounces butter -1 cup cream -1-1/2 cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, snappier, richer, -and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) - - Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese and let - it stew. - - You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual tin, or - pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top under a - blistering salamander. - - The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your - own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own - Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast - -It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not -lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in -tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf. - -This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of Johnson's -time supped while they smoked their church wardens, received its -highest praise from an American newspaper woman who rhapsodized in -1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin shaving of crisp, golden -toast in hot silver saucers--so hot that the cheese was the substance -of thick cream, the flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries -commingled." - -This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses hold a -trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched the milk. -Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyere, Parmesan wafts the scent of -Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of England is perfumed with the -petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine. - - - Oven Rabbit (FROM AN OLD RECIPE) - - Chop small 1/2 pound of cooking cheese. Put it, with a piece of - butter the size of a walnut, in a little saucepan, and as the - butter melts and the cheese gets warm, mash them together, - - When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, 1/2 teacupful of ale, a little - cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon one way only, - until it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil - it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the - Rarebit upon them, and set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before - serving. - - - Yorkshire Rabbit _(originally called Gherkin Buck, -from a pioneer recipe_) - - Put into a saucepan 1/2 pound of cheese, sprinkle with pepper - (black, of course) to taste, pour over 1/2 teacup of ale, and - convert the whole into a smooth, creamy mass, over the fire, - stirring continually, for about 10 minutes. - - In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes altogether is - the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot toast, place a piece of - broiled bacon on the top of each and serve as hot as possible. - - - Golden Buck - - A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer (No. 1) - plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, gave it its - shining name a couple of centuries ago. Nowadays some chafing - dish show-offs try to gild the Golden Buck with dashes of ginger - and spice. - - - Golden Buck II - - This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips. - - - The Venerable Yorkshire Buck - - Spread 1/2-inch slices of bread with mustard and brown in hot - oven. Then moisten each slice with 1/2 glass of ale, lay on top a - slice of cheese 1/4-inch thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of - that. Put back in oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon - crisp, and serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale. - -Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit. - - - Yale College Welsh Rabbit (MORIARTY'S) - -1 jigger of beer -1/4 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/4 teaspoon mustard -1-1/2 cups grated or shaved cheese -More beer - - Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on the - seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, moistening - from time to time with more beer, a pony or two at a time. - - When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this amount) - and serve with still more beer. - -There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, -with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in -the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but -taps a keg to drink with it. - -The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered by the use -of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is often used today -and is thought more sophisticated by some than the red cayenne of -Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish Rabbit, which is precisely the -same as our Basic Recipe No. 1. - - - Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit - -1-1/2 tablespoons butter -1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both -1-1/2 teaspoon chili powder -1 small can kidney beans, drained -1-1/2 tablespoons catsup -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire -Salt -2 cups grated cheese - - Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili powder; add - kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the cheese until melted. - - Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or crackers, - toasted and buttered. - -In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular modern ones -are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in from everywhere, -from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all kinds of quirks, down to -mixing in some dried beef, and there is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit -for reducers, made with farmer cheese and skimmed milk. - -Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the -great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and -more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following -is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, since it has had a -successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only -slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red. - - - Tomato Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -3/4 cup thin cream or evaporated milk -3/4 cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to remove seeds -A pinch of soda -3 cups grated cheese -Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne -2 eggs, lightly beaten - - Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when this - white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato sprinkled with - soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding cheese and seasonings, - and when cooked enough, stir in the eggs to make a creamy - texture, smooth as silk. Serve on buttered whole wheat or graham - bread for a change. - -Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of -bicarbonate of potash." - - - South African Tomato Rabbit - - This is the same as above, except that 1/2 teaspoon of sugar is - used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is poured over baked - pastry cut into squares and sprinkled with parsley, chopped fine, - put in the oven and served immediately. - - - Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc. (OLD BOSTON -STYLE) - -1 tablespoon butter -1 onion, minced -1 teaspoon salt -1 big pinch of pepper -2 cups cooked tomatoes -1 tablespoon sugar -3 cups grated store cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes - with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. Don't let it - boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the pan until it melts. - Then stir in egg gently and serve very hot - - - Tomato Soup Rabbit - -1 can condensed tomato soup -2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt and pepper - - Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and egg - slowly, season and serve hot. - -This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, -housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery Rabbit -if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato. - - - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1-1/2 cups cooked - tomatoes and add 1/2 cup of mashed boiled onions. - - - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy - -1 tablespoon butter -1 small onion, minced -1 small green pepper, minced -1 can tomato soup -3/4 cup milk -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten -1 jigger sherry -Crackers - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to retain its - flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until it's about 1/3 - full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over them. - - - Blushing Bunny - - This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum Tum - Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little rosier with a - lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and the paprika cooked - in from the start, of course. - -Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for dishes, like -Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak -_(Bubblum Squeakum_), and Toad in the Hole. - - - Scotch Woodcock - - Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum Tiddy, but - before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in 2 heaping - tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the buttered toast by - laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs. - - - American Woodchuck - -1-1/2 cups tomato puree -2 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -Cayenne -1 tablespoon brown sugar -Salt and pepper - - Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly melted stir - in the egg and, when almost cooked, add seasonings without ever - interrupting the stirring. Pour over hot toasted crackers or - bread. - -No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar was named -after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of the Scotch -Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with -brown sugar. - - - Running Rabbit (_as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, -First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937_) - - Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in - saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add Worcestershire - sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made toast. - -This running cony can be poured over toast like any other Rabbit, or -over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, or -served like Fondue, in the original cooking bowl or pan, with the -spoon kept moving in it in one direction only and the Rabbit following -the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog -races. - - - Mexican Chilaly - -1 tablespoon butter -3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without seeds -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -3/4 teaspoon salt -Dash of cayenne -1 egg, lightly beaten -2 tablespoons canned tomato juice -Water cress - - Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp and cook - 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and stirring steadily - as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten the egg with the tomato - juice and stir in until the Rabbit is thick and velvety. - - Serve on toast and dress with water cress. - -This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in -spite of the centuries' difference in age. - - - Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit - - Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs to make it - more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve it hot over cold - slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on hot buttered toast, to - make it extra eggy. - - - Grilled Tomato Rabbit - - Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes 1/2-inch thick, season with salt, - pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot both sides with all the - butter that won't slip off. - - Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove and broil - on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the usual toast and - pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is made according to - either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.) - - Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a touch of - horseradish help. - - - Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit - - Slice 1/4-inch thick an equal number of tomato and onion rings. - Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots of butter. Heat in - moderate oven, and when almost cooked remove and broil lightly. - - On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the tomato ones - and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain Grilled Tomato recipe - above. - -For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit. - - - The Devil's Own (_a fresh tomato variant_) - -2 tablespoons butter -1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -A pinch of cayenne -A dash of tabasco sauce -2 tablespoons chili sauce -1/2 cup ale or beer -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Saute tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. - Keep warm on hot platter while you make the toast and a Basic - Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put - hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot - mixture over. - - - Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded -1/4 pound dried beef, shredded -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1/4 teaspoon pepper -2 cups grated cheese - - Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until mixed well, - then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated cheese until smooth - and creamy. Serve on toast. - -No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called both dried -beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, _tasajo_ on the -other side, and _xarque_ when you get all the way down to Brazil. - - - Kansas Jack Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup cream-style corn -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in cheese - steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and season to - taste. Serve on hot buttered toast. - -Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must have been -easier to make on Baron Muenchhausen's "Island of Cheese," where the -cornstalks produced loaves of bread, ready-made, instead of ears, and -were no doubt crossed with long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits -quite as miraculous. - -After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or -canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized -Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which -appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has -everything. - - - Latin-American Corn Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -1 green pepper, chopped -1 large onion, chopped -1/2 cup condensed tomato soup -3 cups grated cheese -1 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1 cup canned corn -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, cover and - cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add cheese with - seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the corn, and when - thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the egg with a little of - the liquid, stir in until thickened and then pour over hot toast - or crackers. - - - Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit - - In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced fresh - mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting over boiling - water 2 cups of grated cheese with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 - teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily and, when partially melted, stir - in a can of condensed tomato soup, previously heated. Then add - the fried mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot - toast or crackers. - - - Celery and Onion Rabbit - -1/2 cup chopped hearts of celery -1 small onion, chopped -1 tablespoon butter -1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheese -Salt and pepper - - In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, - melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir steadily. When - nearly done stir the celery and onion in gradually, until smooth - and creamy. - - Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or under the - grill. - - - Asparagus Rabbit - - Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus - tops for the celery and onion. - - - Oyster Rabbit - -2 dozen oysters and their liquor -1 teaspoon butter -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1 large pinch of salt -1 small pinch of cayenne -3 cups grated cheese - - Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm while - you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is melted add the - eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep stirring. When the - Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, drop in the warm oysters - to heat a little more, and serve on hot buttered toast. - - - Sea-food Rabbits - - _(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, abalone, - squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or crawls on the - bottom of the ocean)_ - - Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or canned - sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make according to - Oyster Rabbit recipe above. - - Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, mixed - according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit with - horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change. - - - "Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit - - The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush bouquet of - as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, cod, salmon, etc.) - as can be sardined together in the whirlpool of melted cheese in - the chafing dish. They also accent it with tidbits of sea food as - above. - - - Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried - - Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the alewife to - the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan haddie, mackerel, cod, - and so on, can be stirred in to make a basic Rabbit more tasty. - Happy combinations are hit upon in mixing leftovers of several - kinds by the cupful. So the odd old cookbook direction, "Add a - cup of fish," takes on new meaning. - - - Grilled Sardine Rabbit - - Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, boned, - halved and grilled, on buttered toast. - - Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as succulent - a grilled Rabbit. - - - Roe Rabbits - - Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other fish, grill - on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit over. Although shad - roe is esteemed the finest, there are many other sapid ones of - salmon, herring, flounder, cod, etc. - - - Plain Sardine Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in place of the - egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of sardines, skinned, - boned and flaked. - - - Anchovy Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East Indian - chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, spread toast - thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and pour the Rabbit over. - - - Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like - - Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and all of - them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a Basic Rabbit over - the fish. - - The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a thin - slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked sturgeon. - - - Smoked Cheddar Rabbit - - With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose palates crave - the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic Rabbit made with - smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, but unsmoked, Cheddar. - We use a two-year-old that Phil Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, - brings down from Canada and has specially smoked in the same - savory room where sturgeon is getting the works. So his Cheddar - absorbs the de luxe flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and - is sold for a fraction of that. - - And just in case you are fishing around for something extra - special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned Bombay ducks, - those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian fish. - - Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky Lapsang - Soochong China tea. - - - Crumby Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup stale bread crumbs - soaked with -1 cup milk -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt -Cayenne -Toasted crackers - - Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. - When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg to thicken the - mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry or buttered, for - contrast with the bread. - - Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a cup of - catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what should be a - white monkey. - - There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which extend all - the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked Rabbit and - consisting of alternate layers of stale bread crumbs and - grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate three-layer Rabbit is - moistened with eggs beaten up with milk, and seasoned with salt - and paprika. - - - Crumby Tomato Rabbit - -2 teaspoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup soft bread crumbs -1 cup tomato soup -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the tomato soup - and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring until velvety. - Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to the bread crumbs. - - - Gherkin or Irish Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup milk (or beer) -A dash of vinegar -1/2 teaspoon mustard -Salt and pepper -1/2 cup chopped gherkin pickles - - Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and seasonings. - Keep stirring until smooth, then add the pickles and serve. - -This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle. - - - Dutch Rabbit - - Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy skillet - with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a splash of beer. - - Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or ale and - pour the Rabbit over them. - - The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer and - delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead. - -Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in the use of -prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of things the hard -way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with water before every meal, -while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do. - - - Pumpernickel Rabbit - - This German deviation is made exactly the same as the Dutch - Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in color. - Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in heated dark beer - (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese melted in the skillet is - also stirred up with brunette beer. - -Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the two to -commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or black -pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and the Cheddar is -noted for its beery smell, there is further affinity here. An old -English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread and cheese are the two -targets against death." - -By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been coined when -Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. Contemptuously he -spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "_Bon -pour Nicole_" in French. - - - Gruyere Welsh Rabbit _au gratin_ - - Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them lightly, - lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching slice of - imported Gruyere 3/8-inch thick. Pepper to taste and cover with - bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 minutes and rush to the ultimate - consumer. - -To our American ears anything _au gratin_ suggests "with cheese," so -this Rabbit _au gratin_ may sound redundant. To a Frenchman, however, -it means a dish covered with bread crumbs. - - - Swiss Cheese Rabbit - -1/2 cup white wine, preferably Neufchatel -1/2 cup grated Gruyere -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1/2 saltspoon paprika -2 egg yolks - - Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until it melts, - then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at least 3 more minutes - until smooth. - - - Sherry Rabbit - -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk -1/2 cup sherry -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -A dash of paprika - - Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and - when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until - almost all of the cheese is melted, then add sherry. When smooth - and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and - after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color. - - - Spanish Sherry Rabbit - -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -1 bouillon cube, mashed -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 cups milk -1-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 jigger sherry - - Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in the - cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 minutes, and when - well-blended stir in the sherry and serve on hot, buttered toast. - - - Pink Poodle - -2 tablespoons butter -1 tablespoon chopped onion -1 tablespoon flour -1 jigger California claret -1 cup cream of tomato soup -A pinch of soda -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 teaspoon paprika -A dash of powdered cloves -3 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in flour, - wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir in cheese - slowly until melted and finish off by thickening with the egg and - stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve on crisp, buttered toast - with a dry red wine. - -Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss ones with -Gruyere in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly drunk with anything from -a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But for most of us, a deep draught -of beer or ale goes best with an even deeper draught of the mellow -scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow. - - - Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit - -1/8 pound butter -2 cups grated Gruyere -4 eggs, well-beaten -Salt -Pepper -Mustard - - Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, stirring - steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. Season and pour - over dry toast. - -This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up for any -lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the sweets to finish -a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries. - - - Cream Cheese Rabbit - - This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is more - scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply scramble a - half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, and - just before the finish work in the cheese until smooth and serve - on crackers--water crackers for a change. - - - Reducing Rarebit (Tomato Rarebit)[A] - -YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving. - -1/2 pound farmer cheese -2 eggs -1 level tablespoon powdered milk -1 level teaspoon baking powder -1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder -4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or -2 tomatoes, quartered -1 teaspoon caraway seeds -1/4 teaspoon garlic powder -1 teaspoon parsley flakes -1/2 head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber -1/4 cup wine vinegar -Salt and pepper to taste - -[Footnote A: (from _The Low-Calory Cookbook_ by Bernard Koten, -published by Random House)] - - Fill bottom of double boiler with water to 3/4 mark. Sprinkle - salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil over medium flame. When - upper part is hot, put in cheese, powdered milk, baking powder, - gelatin, caraway seeds and pepper and garlic powder to taste. - Mix. Break eggs into this mixture, cook over low flame, - continually stirring. Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and - continue cooking and stirring until tomatoes have been cooked - soft. Remove to lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has - been slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture. - - - Curry Rabbit - -1 tablespoon cornstarch -2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 tablespoon minced chives -2 green onions, minced -2 shallots, minced -1/4 teaspoon imported curry powder -1 tablespoon chutney sauce - - Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald the rest - over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture and stir in the - cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and chutney while - wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and sizzling enough to pour - over buttered toast. - -People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in Rabbits, just -as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables. - - - Ginger Ale Rabbit - - Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 - Rabbit of all time. - - - Buttermilk Rabbit - - Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 Rabbit. To be - consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk Cheese, instead of the - usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. This is milder. - - - Eggnog Rabbit - -2 tablespoons sweet butter -2 cups grated mellow Cheddar -1-1/3 cups eggnog -Dashes of spice to taste. - - After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog and keep - stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or not, depending on - taste and the quality of eggnog employed. - -Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the milkman in -holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been -multiplying as fast as guinea pigs. - - - All-American Succotash Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -3 cups grated cheese -1 cup creamed succotash, strained -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in the - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the creamed - succotash and season to taste. - - Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread. - - - Danish Rabbit - -1 quart warm milk -2 cups grated cheese - - Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot toast in - heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in north Denmark. - - As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to taste. - - Easy English Rabbit - - Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of cheese with - butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few spoonfuls of beer and a - bit of prepared mustard. When smoothly melted, pour over the - piping-hot, beer-soaked toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Six_ - -The Fondue - - -There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart -out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better than a collapsed -souffle, with his definition: - - Fondue. Also, erroneously, _fondu_. A dish made of melted - cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and bread crumbs. - -Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for centuries has -been one of the world's greatest, to "a combination of melted cheese, -eggs and butter" and explains that the name comes from the French -_fondre_, meaning melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date -_Cook's Quiz_ compiled by TV culinary experts: - - A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread crumbs. - -A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety and -inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the -respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, Andre Simon, all -have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with its -creamy, nay velvety, smoothness. - -A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black pepper, -nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne pepper, the -luscious gravy of roast turkey--such little matters help to make an -authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme -Brillat-Savarin a century and a half ago brought the original -"receipt" with him and spread it around with characteristic generosity -during the two years of his exile in New York after the French -Revolution. In his monumental _Physiologie du Gout_ he records an -incident that occurred in 1795: - - Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper - Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish, - a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he - (Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to - New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are - brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite - by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion. - -As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at -Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later -had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyere three times a day, as is -the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe -just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur -Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne: - - Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of - your guests. Then take a lump of good Gruyere cheese, weighing - about a third of the eggs, and a nut of butter about half the - weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about - 1-1/2 ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. your lump - of good Gruyere would come to 1/4 pound and your butter to 1/8 - pound.) - - Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the butter - and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces. - - Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden spoon until - the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a little or no salt, - according to the age of the cheese, and a good deal of pepper, - for this is one of the special attributes of this ancient dish. - - Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some of the - best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite freely, a - marvelous effect will be beheld. - -This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the national dish -of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters in his district -laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his Fondue with a spoon instead -of the traditional fork, in the first decade of the 1700's. He tells, -too, of a Fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian -cousins in Paris "about the year 1801." - -The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the master: "By -Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long time about your -Fondues, you have continually made our mouths water. It is high time -to put a stop to all this. We will come and breakfast with you some -day and see what sort of thing this dish is." - -Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them off with -the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each one's place two -dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At each end of the table -stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully wiped, excepting the cork, which -showed distinctly that it had been in the cellar for a long while.... -After the oysters, which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, -a _terrine_ of _foie gras_, a pie with truffles, and finally the -Fondue. The different ingredients had all been assembled in a stewpan, -which was placed on the table over a chafing dish, heated with spirits -of wine. - -"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of -battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of my movements. -They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let -them have the receipt, which I promised them...." - -This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a -good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit -for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." - -This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in -what is called: - - - Neufchatel Style - -2-1/2 cups grated imported Swiss -1-1/2 tablespoons flour -1 clove of garlic -1 cup dry white wine -Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big mouthfuls, handy - for dunking -1 jigger kirsch -Salt -Pepper -Nutmeg - - The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and mixed well - with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking and a small heated - casserole for serving. Hub the bottom and sides of the blazer - well with garlic, pour in the wine and heat to bubbling, just - under boiling. Add cheese slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir - steadily in one direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a - silver fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on - how salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, freshly - ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the kirsch, stir - steadily and invite guests to dunk their forked bread in the dish - or in a smaller preheated casserole over a low electric or - alcohol burner on the dining table. The trick is to keep the - bubbling melted cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up - and down and around and around. - -The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft -part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your bread comes off -in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine. - -The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests taking -regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese swirling. When -this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has been called in England, -is ready for eating, each in turn thrusts in his fork, sops up a -mouthful with the bread for a sponge and gives the Fondue a final -stir, to keep it always moving in the same direction. All the while -the heat beneath the dish keeps it gently bubbling. - -Such a Neufchatel party was a favorite of King Edward VII, especially -when he was stepping out as the Prince of Wales. He was as fond of -Fondue as most of the great gourmets of his day and preferred it to -Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of the wine and kirsch that went into -it. - -At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue gets too -thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in the bottom of the -dish, this is forked out by the host and divided among the guests as a -very special dividend. - -Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the Switzerland Cheese -Association, in broadcasting this classical recipe, points out that -any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, including applejack, will be a -valid substitute for the kirsch. To us, applejack seems specially -suited, when we stop to consider our native taste that has married -apple pie to cheese since pioneer times. - -In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible consistency" and -this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese alone, although we use it -chiefly for that. - -In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish of eggs -scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very hot on toasted -bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and -served at once. The reason for this is that all baked Fondues fall as -easily and as far as Souffles, although the latter are more noted for -this failing. There is a similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, -although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, -stuffed-shirt buildup around any Souffle, suggesting a dressy dinner, -while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl. - -Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original French Fondue -on the Welsh Rabbit model--to turn it into a sort of French Rabbit. -Although we know that both Gruyere and Emmentaler are what we call -Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich -Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all -sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick -to Savarin's "lump of Gruyere" just as the neighboring French and -Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking -has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the -following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an -Englishman, Eric Weir: - - - Fondue a l'Italienne - - This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really - grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy, - but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but - only once in Italy. - - First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour - and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden - spoon to stand upright or almost. - - Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyere - cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with - salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add - the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding - basin. - - Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a - boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the - basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to - 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it - evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not - bubble over the mixture. - - Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When - the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and - turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep - the shape of the basin. - - Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot. - -The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then -marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being -melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted -here in: - - - All-American Fondue - -1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed -3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine -1-1/2 jiggers applejack - - After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt - together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the - applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus - of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String." - - Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and - poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the - thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to - stale ale or fresh beer. - -We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish -so eagerly, together with the great Gruyere that makes it distinctive. -They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse -and onion soup, that celestial _soupe a l'oignon_ on which snowy -showers of grated Gruyere descend. - -To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue a -l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the -world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and -show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage -Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue a la Biere. - -Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, -rhapsodic writing about Gruyere and its offspring, the Fondue, -together with the puffed Souffle, than about any other imported cheese -except Parmesan. - -Parmesan and Gruyere were praised as the two greatest culinary -cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese. - - - Parmesan Fondue - -3 tablespoons butter -1 cup grated Parmesan cheese -4 eggs, lightly beaten -Salt -Pepper - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the - eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only, - until smooth. - - Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the - ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a - fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough. - - - Sapsago Swiss Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -1/2 teaspoon salt -1-1/2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese -2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago -1/2 cup dry white wine -Pepper, black and red, freshly ground -Fingers of toast - - Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth, - fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well - melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in - small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until - velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve - over fingers of toast. - -This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated -pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the -fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, -cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added. - -At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion, -where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs -learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become -stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in -continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of -bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping -it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split -second. - -The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita -as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share -Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural -cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own, -such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a -luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk -cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and -Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants: - - 1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as - Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added - and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and - sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being - melted, though it's really recooked, - - 2. _Vacherin a la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses, - resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is - round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and - aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the - ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the - cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it - is _Tome de Montagne_. - -Here is a good assortment of Fondues: - - - Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -1 clove garlic, crushed -2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese -2 tablespoons hot water - - This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter - until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat. - Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and - velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in - one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a little water takes - the place of a lot of wine.) - - - La Fondue Comtois - - This regional specialty of Franche-Comte is made with white wine. - Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish type will serve - splendidly. Also use butter, grated Gruyere, beaten eggs and that - touch of garlic. - - - Chives Fondue - -3 cups grated Swiss cheese -3 tablespoons flour -2 tablespoons butter -1 garlic clove, crushed -3 tablespoons finely chopped chives -1 cup dry white wine -Salt -Freshly ground pepper -A pinch of nutmeg -1/4 cup kirsch - - Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed - with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat - just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour - mix gradually, stirring always in one direction. Salt according - to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground - pepper and the pinch of nutmeg. - - When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in the - kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to dunking. - - Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change for dunking - purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating with the absorbent - bread, or hard rolls. - - - Tomato Fondue - -2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped -1/2 teaspoon dried sweet basil -1 clove garlic -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup dry white wine -2 cups grated Cheddar cheese -Paprika - - Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with garlic, - melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, - add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. Then add cheese, half a - cup at a time, and keep stirring until everything is smooth. - - Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit. - -Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but they're -held together with the common ingredient, tomato. - -Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale -bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make: - - Tomato Baked Fondue - -1 cup tomato juice -1 cup stale bread crumbs -1 cup grated sharp American cheese -1 tablespoon melted butter -Salt -4 eggs, separated and well beaten - - Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, - season with a little or no salt, depending on saltiness of the - cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake - about 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - -BAKED FONDUES - -Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a sensation on -these shores and is still in highest esteem among epicures, the Fondue -America took to its bosom was baked. The original recipe came from the -super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, _La Fondue -au Fromage_. - - - La Fondue au Fromage - - Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, yolks of - eggs and Gruyere, in thin slices for a change. Use red pepper - instead of black, splash in a jigger of kirsch but no white wine. - Finally fold in the egg whites and bake in a mold for 45 minutes. - -We adapted this to our national taste which had already based the -whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit with stale ale or -milk instead of white wine and Worcestershire, mustard and hot -peppers. Today we have come up with this: - - - 100% American Fondue - -2 cups scalded milk -2 cups stale bread crumbs -1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard -Salt -Dash of nutmeg -Dash of pepper -2 cups American cheese (Cheddar) -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. - Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth - mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites stiff, leaving - them slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix - and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a - moderate oven.) - -This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to our way of -thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take the place of the -wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our bland cookery. - - -OTHER FONDUES PLAIN AND FANCY, BAKED AND NOT - - - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy - -3/4 pound sharp cheese, diced -1 can condensed tomato soup -1/2 cup catsup -1/2 teaspoon mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten - - In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly by - constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or fold in the - catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on Melba toast or rusks. - -This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of -cocoa, for a change. - - - Cheese and Rice Fondue - -1 cup cooked rice -2 cups milk -4 eggs, separated and well beaten -1/2 cup grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three - - Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in cheese until - melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, season, fold in stiff - egg whites. Serve hot on toast. - - Corn and Cheese Fondue - -1 cup bread crumbs -1 large can creamed corn -1 small onion, chopped -1/2 green pepper, chopped -2 cups cottage cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 cup milk -2 eggs, well beaten - - Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered casserole set - in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in moderate oven, or until - set. - - - Cheese Fondue - -1 cup grated Cheddar -1/2 cup crumbled Roquefort -1 cup pimento cheese -3 tablespoons cream -3 tablespoons butter -1 teaspoon Worcestershire - - Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and creamy. - Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream or mayonnaise - if too stiff. - - Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted crackers. - - - Brick Fondue - -1/2 cup butter -2 cups grated Brick cheese -1/2 cup warm milk -1/2 teaspoon salt -2 eggs - - Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip in the - warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the eggs, one at a - time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls for each egg to be - beaten separately in cases like this. - - Serve over hot toast or crackers. - - Cheddar Dunk Bowl - -3/4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese -3 tablespoons cream -2/3 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire - - Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with the cream - until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful bowl for dunking in - the original style of Savarin, although this is a static - imitation of the real thing. - - All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, from celery - stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut from Bombay duck. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Seven_ - -Souffles, Puffs and Ramekins - - -There isn't much difference between Cheese Souffles, Puffs and -Ramekins. The _English Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_, the oldest, -biggest and best of such works in English, lumps Cheese Puffs and -Ramekins together, giving the same recipes for both, although it -treats each extensively under its own name when not made with cheese. - -Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese and bread -crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff again the principal -factor in Souffle, from the French _souffler_, puff up). - - Basic Souffle - -3 tablespoons butter or margarine -4 tablespoons flour -1-1/4 cups hot milk, scalded -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until thick and - smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the cooking and - slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat and let cool - somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a light hand and an - upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites and when evenly mixed - pour into a big, round baking dish. (Some butter it and some - don't.) To make sure the top will be even when baked, run a spoon - or knife around the surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the - dish, before baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high - and beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the Souffle may - fall. The baking takes up to an hour and the egg whites shouldn't - be beaten so stiff they are hard to fold in and contain no air to - expand and puff up the dish. - -To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, -nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, especially in England. - -While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a close -second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all three of these -together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes -below. - - - Parmesan Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these small modifications in - the ingredients: - -1 full cup of grated Parmesan -1 extra egg in place of the 1/2 cup of Cheddar cheese -A little more butter -Black pepper, not cayenne - - - Swiss Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these slight changes: - -1-1/4 cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the Cheddar cheese -Nutmeg in place of the cayenne - - - Parmesan-Swiss Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these little differences: - -1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan in place of -the Cheddar cheese -1/4 teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning. - -Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a -grand dinner. - - - Cheese-Corn Souffle - - Make as Basic Souffle, substituting for the scalded milk 1 cup of - sieved and strained juice from cream-style canned corn. - - - Cheese-Spinach Souffle - - Saute 1-1/2 cups of finely chopped, drained spinach in butter - with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and then whip it until light - and fluffy. Mix well into the white sauce of the Basic Souffle - before adding the cheese and following the rest of the recipe. - - - Cheese-Tomato Souffle - - Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk. - - - Cheese-Sea-food Souffle - - Add 1-1/2 cups finely chopped or ground lobster, crab, shrimp, - other sea food or mixture thereof, with any preferred seasoning - added. - - - Cheese-Mushroom Souffle - -1-1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar -1 cup cream of mushroom soup -Paprika, to taste -Salt -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon -2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds - - Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese gradually - and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken the sauce with - egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and finally fold in the - whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds and bake until golden - brown and puffed high (about 1 hour). - - - Cheese-Potato Souffle (Potato Puff) - -6 potatoes -2 onions -1 tablespoon butter or margarine -1 cup hot milk -3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of pepper -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese - - Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put through a - ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except the egg whites - and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour - into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup of Cheddar on - top and bake in moderate oven about 1/2 hour, until golden-brown - and well puffed. Serve instantly. - - Variations of this popular Souffle leave out the onion and - simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Sometimes 1 - tablespoon of catsup and another of minced parsley is added to - the mixture. Or onion juice alone, to take the place of the - cooked onions--about a tablespoon, full or scant. - -The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or Souffle, are inclined -to make it extra peppery, as they do most of their Cheese Souffles, -with not only "a dust of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be -stood on the face of a sixpence." - - - Cheese Fritter Souffles - - These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crepes suzette. - - -PUFFS - - - Three-in-One Puffs - -1 cup grated Swiss -1 cup grated Parmesan -1 cup cream cheese -5 eggs, lightly beaten -salt and pepper - - Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten eggs, - splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly incorporated, put in - ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort of little mold of any - shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 minutes, until richly browned. - -Such miniature Souffles serve as liaison officers for this entire -section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the -French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. -These may be paper boxes, usually round, earthenware, china, Pyrex, -of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs. - -More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin -dishes, as follows: - - - Fried Puffs - -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/2 cup grated cheese -1 tablespoon flour -Salt -Paprika - - Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and seasonings. - When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, roll in crumbs and - fry. - - - Roquefort Puffs - -1/8 pound genuine French Roquefort -1 egg white, beaten stiff -8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds - - Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on crackers and - bake 15 minutes in slow oven. - -The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes may give -the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, but such is not -the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and left moist and -glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad droop to them that shows -there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in -cooking. - - - Parmesan Puffs - - Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal - parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a score or - more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes - till they puff up golden-brown. - - Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, second best, - from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and Italian settlers - get together on excellent Parmesan and Romano. Never buy Parmesan - already grated; it quickly loses its flavor. - - - Breakfast Puffs - -1 cup flour -1 cup milk -1/4 cup finely grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt - - Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill ramekins or - cups half full; then bake in quick oven until they are puffing - over the top and golden-brown. - - - Danish Fondue Puffs - -1 stale roll -1/2 cup boiling hot milk -Salt -Pepper -2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese -4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -4 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with cheese - and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the egg whites - and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and slowly bake - until puffed up and golden-brown. - - - New England Cheese Puffs - -1 cup sifted flour -1 teaspoon baking powder -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika -1/4 teaspoon dry mustard -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -1/2 cup milk -1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese -2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry - - Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. - Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold in the egg - whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big spoon into hot - deep fat and cook until well browned. - - Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also used, and - either of these makes a snappier puff, especially tasty when - served with soup. - - A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang. - - - Cream Cheese Puffs - -1/2 pound cream cheese -1 cup milk -4 eggs, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard - - Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from heat and add - milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well blended, then pour into - custard cups, ramekins or any other individual baking dishes that - are attractive enough to serve the puffs in. - - -RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - - -Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be collected -like snuff bottles. - -Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the individual -dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese Puff, this is -also _au gratin_ when topped with both cheese and browned bread -crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's license the name is also applied to -any kind of cake containing cheese and cooked in the identifying -one-portion ramekin. It is used chiefly in the plural, however, -together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken -Ramekins" and: - - - Cheese Ramekins I - -2 eggs -2 tablespoons flour -1/8 pound butter, melted -1/8 pound grated cheese - - Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes. - - - Cheese Ramekins II - -3 tablespoons melted butter -1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper -3/4 cup bread crumbs -1/2 cup grated cheese -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1-1/2 cups milk - - Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs into the - milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in buttered - ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. Serve piping hot, - for like Souffles and all associated Puffs, the hot air will puff - out of them quickly; then they will sink and be inedible. - - -TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES, STILL GOING STRONG - - - Cheese Ramekins III - - Grate 1/2 pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a dozen small - paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing paper like Souffle - cases. Put a saucepan containing 1/2 pint of water over the fire, - add 2 tablespoons of butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 - heaping tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the grated - cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, and let it - partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks from the whites - of three eggs, and beat them until the yolks foam and the whites - make a stiff froth. Put the mixture at once into the buttered - paper cases, only half-filling them (since they rise very high - while being baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a - moderate oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are - done, put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot. - -The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, -Gruyere. But because the early English also adopted Italian Parmesan, -that followed as a close second, and remains there today. - -Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this second -oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and Cheshire -"'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. Gloucester has been -called "a glorified Cheshire" and the latter has long been known as a -peculiarly rich and colorful elder brother of Cheddar, described in -Kenelme Digby's _Closet Open'd_ as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted -cheese." - - - Cheese Ramekins IV - - Scrape fine 1/4 pound of Gloucester cheese and 1/4 pound of - Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese in a mortar with the - yolks of 4 eggs, 1/4 pound of fresh butter, and the crumbs of a - French roll boiled in cream until soft. When all this is well - mixed and pounded to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. - Should the paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may - be added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served very hot. - -Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not easily come -by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the -States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of -our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or -half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about -it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three -different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect. - - - Ramequins a la Parisienne - -2 cups milk -1 cup cream -1 ounce salt butter -1 tablespoon flour -1/2 cup grated Gruyere -Coarsely ground pepper -An atom of nutmeg -A _soupcon_ of garlic -A light touch of powdered sugar -8 eggs, separated - - Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and - stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a - little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and - stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well - beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed, - fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have - a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of - paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to - allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until - golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes). - - - Le Ramequin Morezien - - This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comte is described as "a - porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast; - thickened with minced Gruyere and served very hot." - -Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs -usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In -Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les -Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyere and eggs. - - - Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins - -1/4 pound Swiss cheese -1/4 pound Roquefort cheese -1/2 pound butter -8 eggs, separated -4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed -1/2 cup cream - - The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the - rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are - folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part - full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served - instantaneously, lest they fall. - - Puff Paste Ramekins - - Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine - tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyere - and/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity - than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the - favorite for these. - - Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more - cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy - shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg - yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine. - - - Frying Pan Ramekins - - Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with - 1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff - but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of - bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 - minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander. - -There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds -that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other -that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special -cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their -creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or -Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay, -carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin. - - - Casserole Ramekin - - Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep - casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese, - with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with - 2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg! - Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eight_ - -Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc. - - -No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them -with pizza. - - - Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily - -DOUGH - -1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water -2 cups sifted flour -1 teaspoon salt -2 tablespoons olive oil - - Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, - cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice - the size. - -TOMATO PASTE - -3 tablespoons olive oil -2 large onions, sliced thin -1 can Italian tomato paste -8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small -1/2 teaspoon oregano -Salt -Crushed chili pepper -2-1/2 cups water - - In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato - paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over - and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is - done. - -CHEESE - -1/2 cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino, depending -on your pocketbook - - Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or reasonable - substitute, and grease well before spreading the well-raised - dough 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Poke your finger tips haphazardly - into the dough to make marks that will catch the sauce when you - pour it on generously. Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese - and bake in hot oven 1/2 hour, then 1/4 hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any other pie - and serve. - -The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to regular -apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular. - - - Miniature Pizzas - - Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with garlic or - onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with tomato sauce and a - slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, oregano and grated Parmesan, - and heat 8 minutes. - - - Italian-Swiss Scallopini - -1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets -1/2 cup flour -1/2 cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed -1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water -Butter -Salt -Paprika - - Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with cheese, - quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes till tender. - Dust with paprika and salt. - - - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles - -1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles -1-1/2 cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat -1/2 pound Ricotta or cottage cheese -1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar -1/4 pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino -Salt -Pepper, preferably crushed red pods -A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute - - Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly boiling - salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. Pour 1/2 cup - of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, cover with about 1/2 of - the noodles, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a - layer of Mozzarella and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this - fashion, alternating layers and seasoning each, ending with a - final spread of sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in - moderate oven, about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, - with canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste. - - - Little Hats, Cappelletti - - Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived - out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little Italy macaroni shop. - These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors - with only two cheeses. - - Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each - very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal - amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. - - With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored - fillings: - - Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and Ricotta Chicken - and Ricotta - - Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the same number - of each different kind. Pinch edges tight together to keep the - stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 minutes in chicken broth - (or salted water, if you must). - - Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and shape of - ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot plates, with - plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable substitute. If we - count this final seasoning as an ingredient, this makes three - cheeses, so that each of half a dozen taste buds can be getting - individual sensations without letting the others know what it's - doing. - - - Dauphiny Ravioli - - This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of pastry - follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat cheese and - Gruyere melted with butter and minced parsley and boiled in - chicken broth. - - - Italian Fritters - -1/4 cup flour -2 tablespoons sugar -1/4 pound fresh Ricotta -2 eggs, beaten -1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella -Rind of 1/2 lemon, grated -3 tablespoons brandy -Salt - - Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 - hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold its shape - while cooking. - - Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the bowl of a - long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in boiling hot oil. - Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at once with powdered sugar. - - To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several contrasting - cheeses in this batter. - - - Italian Asparagus and Cheese - - This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one and the - same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation layer of - grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a layer of tender - parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a layer of grated - Gruyere with a bit of butter, and another of asparagus. From here - you can go as far as you like with varied layers of melting - cheeses alternating with asparagus, until you come to the top, - where you add two more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered - Parmesan with Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent. - - - Garlic on Cheese - - For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by removing skins - and frying out the fierce pungence in smoking olive oil. They - skip in the hot pan like Mexican jumping beans. Toast one side of - a thickish slice of bread, put this side down on a grilling pan, - cover it with a slice of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyere, of - about the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into the - cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt lightly and - dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob Brown in Merle - Armitage's collection _Fit for a King_.) - -Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them toes. It was -cheese and garlic together that inspired Shakespeare to Hotspur's -declaration in _King Henry IV_: - - I had rather live - With cheese and garlic in a windmill, far, - Than feed on cates and have him talk to me - In any summer-house in Christendom. - -Some people can take a mere _soupcon_ of the stuff, while others can -down it by the soup spoon, so we feel it necessary in reprinting our -recipe to point to the warning of another early English writer: -"Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young -men." - - - Blintzes - - This snow white member of the crepes suzette sorority is the most - popular deb in New York's fancy cheese dishes set. Almost unknown - here a decade or two ago, it has joined blinis, kreplach and - cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers. - -2 eggs -1 cup water -1 cup sifted flour -Salt -Cooking oil -1/2 pound cottage cheese -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups sour cream - - Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour and salt - to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and make little - pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. Cook the cakes over - low heat and on one side only. Slide each cake off on a white - cloth, with the cooked side down. While these are cooling make - the blintz-filling by beating together the second egg, cottage - cheese and butter. Spread each pancake thickly with the mixture - and roll or make into little pockets or envelopes with the end - tucked in to hold the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and - serve at once with sufficient sour cream to smother them. - - - Vatroushki - - Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and - blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be made was - vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief - difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of - the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese - filling, and the sour cream, 1/2 cup, is mixed into this instead - of being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix are - made by pinching the edges of the dough together. The tops are - brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk oven. - - - Cottage Cheese Pancakes - -1 cup prepared pancake -4 tablespoons top milk or light cream -1 teaspoon salt -4 eggs, well beaten -1 tablespoon sugar -2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer - - Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth. - - - Cheese Waffles - -2 cups prepared waffle flour -3 egg yolks, lightly beaten -1/4 cup melted butter -3/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar -3 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 ingredients and - fold in egg whites last. - -Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat -quickly and serve. - - - Napkin Dumpling - -1 pound cottage cheese -1/8 pound butter, softened -3 eggs, beaten -3/4 cup Farina -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cinnamon and brown sugar - - Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to - form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold water and tie the - ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling - water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown - sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and - other succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as a - meal in itself. - - -BUTTER AND CHEESE - - - Where fish is scant - And fruit of trees, - Supply that want - With butter and cheese. - - Thomas Tusser in - _The Last Remedy_ - -Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for cheese butter. -Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or less matches Turkey's -Durak, of which butter is an indispensable ingredient, and French -Cancoillote is based on sour milk simmered with butter. - -The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter -substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about -whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in -Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process -of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats, -and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter. - - -BUTTERMILK CHEESE - - -The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu -proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he -dies." - -Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy -manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, -even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato -salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment -packages. - -German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes -make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a -novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE - - -In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It -is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting -milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on -the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is -drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually -salted. - -The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes -from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute: - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 1_ - -Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will -immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little -cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for -serving. - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 2_ - -A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and -buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into -a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste -and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency, -and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange. - - -CREAM CHEESE - - -In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese: - -1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained. -2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire. -3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged -in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, as -in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese. - -American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being named from -then: region or established brands owned by Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, -Shefford, etc. - -Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to make than -cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it is not a cheese -but the dried curd of milk and is often called virginal. Fresh milk is -simply strained through muslin in a perforated box through which the -whey and extra moisture drains away for three or four days, leaving a -residue as firm as fresh butter. - -In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a popular -assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these ingredients and -names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, Pimiento, Olive and -Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, Strawberry, and Triple Decker -of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in layers. - -In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. Finally, to -come to France, la Foncee or Fromage de Pau, a cream also known around -the world as Creme d'Isigny, Double Creme, Fromage a la Creme de Gien, -Pots de Creme St. Gervais, etc. etc. - -The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with Chevretons -du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that adds _a la creme_ to -their already glorified names. - -The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more of a -dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese. - -We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. -Attempts at this have been made, both here and in England; Scottish -Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be -sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses -seem especially suitable. - - The farmer's daughter hath soft brown hair - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese) - And I met with a ballad I can't say where, - That wholly consisted of lines like these, - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese.) - -In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the ingredients -suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In England. From that year -Kettner in his _Book of the Table_ quotes this recipe: - - Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well together; - and make small coffins (that is, cases of pastry), and do it (put - it) therein; and do (put) thereto sugar and good powders. Or take - good fat cheese and eggs and make them of divers colours, green, - red or yellow, and bake them or serve them forth. - -This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of honor that -caused Kettner to wax poetic with: - - At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a countless - number of these maids--light and airy as the "airy, fairy - Lilian." What more can the finest poetry achieve in quickening - the things of earth into tokens and foretastes of heaven, with - glimpses of higher life and ethereal worlds. - - -CHEESECAKES - - -_Coronation Cheese Cake_ - - -The _Oxford Dictionary_ defines cheese cake as a "tartlet filled with -sweet curds, etc." This shows that the cheese is the main thing, and -the and-so-forth just a matter of taste. We are delighted to record -that the Lord Mayor of London picked traditional cheese tarts, the -maids of honor mentioned earlier in this section, as the Coronation -dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city -luncheon in Guildhall This is most fitting, since these tarts were -named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen -Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand -pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual cheese cake -ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of cheese, but what made the -subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, lemon, orange-flower water, or all -four? - -More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese cake, the -Greeks had a word for it--several in fact: Apician Cheese Cake, -Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. Then the Romans took it over -and we read from an epistle of the period: - - Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have been - arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese cakes - dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such as that of - Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.) - -Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was named for it -before Christ was born, at a time when cheese cakes were widely known -as "dainty food for mortal man." - -Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of which the -ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most popular in New York. -But buyers delight in every sort, including the one hundred percent -American type called cheese pies. - -Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese cakes and -cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are made piquant with -pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of ours made from -popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve: - - - Pineapple Cheese Cake - -2-1/2 pounds sieved pot cheese -1-inch piece vanilla bean -1/4 pound sweet butter, melted -1/2 small box graham crackers, crushed fine -4 eggs -2 cups sugar -1 small can crushed pineapple, drained -2 cups milk -1/3 cup flour - - In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and - pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square Pyrex pan and - put in the graham-cracker dust to make a crust. Cover this evenly - with the pineapple and pour in the cheese-custard mixture. Bake I - hour in a "quiet" oven, as the English used to say for a moderate - one, and when done set aside for 12 hours before eating. - -Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better buy your -cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones cost a dime a -bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American ones in Manhattan. -Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at about five dollars a cake. -Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries. - - - Cheese Custard - -4 eggs, slightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 cup milk -A dash of pepper or paprika -3 tablespoons melted butter -A few drops of onion juice, if desired -4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported) - - Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake - until brown. - - - Open-faced Cheese Pie - -3 eggs -1 cup sugar -2 pounds soft smearcase - - Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake without - any upper crust. - - -The Apple-pie Affinity - -Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even -as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has cheese for a sidekick, -according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and -flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was -Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are -common, such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, -pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hable, and even a green -dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie. - -Apple pie _au gratin_, thickly grated over with Parmesan, Caciocavallo -or Sapsago, is something special when served with black coffee. Cider, -too, or applejack, is a natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple -with its cheese. - - - Apple Pie Adorned - - Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing cream - cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of double cream - beaten thick and salted a little. Put the mixture in a pastry - tube and decorate top of pie in fanciful fashion. - - - Apple Pie a la Cheese - - Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any fruit or - berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 minutes. - - - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie - - In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and sprinkle with - sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and bake golden-brown. - - - Flan au Fromage - - To make this Franche-Comte tart of crisp paste, simply mix - coarsely grated Gruyere with beaten egg, fill the tart cases and - bake. - - For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, work in - tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 parts of - flour. - - - Christmas Cake Sandwiches - - A traditional Christmas carol begs for: - - A little bit of spice cake - A little bit of cheese, - A glass of cold water, - A penny, if you please. - - For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake in slices - and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese between. - - To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, serve - apple pie with cheese and applejack. - - - Angelic Camembert - -1 ripe Camembert, imported -1 cup Anjou dry white wine -1/2 pound sweet butter, softened -2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs - - Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and when its - creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, round covered - dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no bouquet or aroma can - possibly escape, and let stand overnight. - - When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, dry the - cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an angelic paste. - Reshape in original Camembert form, dust thickly with the crumbs - and there you are. - -Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since some of -them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken straight. - -Although A. W. Fulton's observation in _For Men Only_ is going out of -date, it is none the less amusing: - - In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only met one - woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her seemed to me so - deserving of reward that I did not hesitate to acquire her hand - in marriage. - -Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like -cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between -gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from -early Italian landowners: - - _Ai contadini non far sapere - Quanta e buono it cacio con le pere_. - Don't let the peasants know - How good are cheese and pears. - -Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of Taleggio, -Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a good dinner, with a -juicy Lombardy pear or its American equivalent, a Bartlett, let us -say. - -This celestial association of cheese and pears is further accented by -the French: - - _Entre la poire et le fromage_ - Between the pear and the cheese. - -This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, in -accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke in his -_Paroemiologia_: - - After cheese comes nothing. - -But in his _Epigrams_ Ben Jonson serves them together. - - Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will be. - -That brings us back to cheese and pippins: - - I will make an end of my dinner; there's - pippins and cheese to come. - - Shakespeare's _Merry Wives of Windsor_ - -When should the cheese be served? In England it is served before or -after the fruit, with or without the port. - -Following _The Book of Keruynge_ in modern spelling we note when it -was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, -strawberries, whortleberries (American huckleberries) and hard -cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like -Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced -banana, Hable spread on pineapple and a cheese dessert tray to match -the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, -are figs, both fresh and preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, -kumquats, avocados, fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, -served in the scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or -pear and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. Pots -of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being -the best. - - - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola - -1/2 pound mellow Roquefort -1/4 pound sweet butter, softened -A dash cayenne -3/4 cup champagne - - With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, - moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or - less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the - demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt - gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just - plain bread. - -After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are: - -FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, -Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy) - -FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar - -FROM SWEDEN: Hable Creme Chantilly - -FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese - -FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval - -FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyere - -FROM GERMANY: Kuemmelkaese - -FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost - -FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda - -FROM ENGLAND: Stilton - -FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Nine_ - -Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - - -He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet, -saluted it two centuries ago with: - - Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow. - -On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan, -"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W. -Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a -century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_ -wrote: - - I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me - back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very - kind of him. - -The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and, -for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave -us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with -a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In -America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although -Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or -cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that. - - - Potatoes au Gratin - -2 cups diced cooked potatoes -2 tablespoons grated onion -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup milk -1 egg -Salt -Pepper -More grated cheese for covering - - In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle - with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of - cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk, - egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top - everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically - American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2 - hour. - - - Eggs au Gratin - - Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any - desired number of eggs broken into a buttered baking dish. Begin - by using half of the sauce and sprinkling on a lot of grated - cheese. After the eggs are in, pour on the rest of the sauce, - cover it with grated cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of - butter, and cook until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes). - - - Tomatoes au Gratin - - Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and - sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, season - with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of - tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating - with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, - cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - - Onion Soup au Gratin - -4 or 5 onions, sliced -4 or 5 tablespoons butter -1 quart stock or canned consomme -1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes -Rounds of toasted French bread -1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese - - Saute onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until light golden, - and pour the stock over. When heated put in a larger casserole, - add the bouillon, season to taste and heat to boiling point. Let - simmer 15 minutes and serve in deep well-heated soup plates, the - bottoms covered with rounds of toasted French bread which have - been heaped with freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the - broiler. More cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as - desired. - -At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of champagne -are often added to the bouillon. - -In the famed onion soup _au gratin_ at Les Halles in Paris, grated -Gruyere is used in place of Parmesan. They are interchangeable in this -recipe. - - -AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - - In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is made by - heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and adding finely - grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French bread toasted and - topped with more cheese and broiled golden makes the best base to - pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above. - - The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese - soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, - pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg. - - - Chicken Cheese Soup - - Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken bouillon - cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed cream of - chicken soup. Stir in 1/4 cup grated American Cheddar cheese and - season with salt, pepper, and plenty of paprika until cheese - melts. - - Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese to lima - bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or plain cheese soup - with rice. - -Imported French _marmites_ are _de rigueur_ for a real onion soup _au -gratin_, and an imported Parmesan grinder might be used for freshly -ground cheese. In preparing, it is well to remember that they are -basically only melted cheese, melted from the top down. - - -CHEESE SALADS - - When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is resting and in no hurry. - He eats the salad to prepare himself for the cheese. - - Henri Charpentier, _Life & la Henri_, - - - Green Cheese Salad Julienne - - Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of crisp - lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone cheese cut in - thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 hours in French - dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue cheese and toss - everything thoroughly, with plenty of French dressing. - - - American Cheese Salad - - Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with shredded - American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in French dressing. - - - Cheese and Nut Salad - - Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats and enough - mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little balls and serve - with fruit salads, dusting lightly with finely grated Sapsago. - - - Brie or Camembert Salad - - Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie or - Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce drenched with - French dressing and scatter shredded almonds over. (Cream cheese - will do in a pinch. If the Camembert isn't creamy enough, mash it - with some sweet cream.) - - - Three-in-One Mold - -3/4 cup cream cheese -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -1/2 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled -2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into -1/2 cup boiling water -Juice of 1 lemon -Salt -Pepper -2 cups cream, beaten stiff -1/2 cup minced chives - - Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with lemon, salt - and pepper and stir into cheese with the whipped cream. Add - chives last Put in ring mold or any mold you fancy, chill well - and slice at table to serve on lettuce with a little mayonnaise, - or plain. - - - Swiss Cheese Salad - - Dice 1/2 pound of cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Slice one onion - very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash with German mustard, - olive oil, wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and - grind in plenty of black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a - wooden spoon so you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is - drenched with the dressing. - - - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad - -Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished specially -by males on the morning after. We quote the original recipe brought -over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the writers' and artists' -colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her brother Emil's White House -Inn: - - First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported Emmentaler into - half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported French olive oil, German - mustard and Swiss white wine vinegar with salt and freshly ground - pepper in a deep soup plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper - sauce scattered in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes - with a light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising. - - The salad was ready to eat only when each and every tiny, shiny - cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been washed, oiled and - polished with the soothing mixture. - - "Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine Breakfast - Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It is the best cure - in the world for the worst hangover." - - - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad - - Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. Sprinkle with - lemon juice and spread with creamy Gorgonzola. Sluice with French - dressing made with lemon juice in place of vinegar, to help bring - out the natural banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola. - - - Cheese and Pea Salad - - Cube 1/2 pound of American Cheddar and mix with a can of peas, 1 - cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/2 cup of sour cream, - and 2 tablespoons each of minced pimientos and sweet pickles. - Serve in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped - radishes. - - - Apple and Cheese Salad - -1/2 cup cream cheese -1 cup chopped pecans -Salt and pepper -Apples, sliced 1/2-inch thick -Lettuce leaves -Creamy salad dressing - - Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple slices - standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy salad - dressing. - - - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing - - No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American favorite of - Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with French - dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar and kept in the - refrigerator to shake up on occasion and toss over lettuce or - other salads. - -Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, complete -with the picture of the sheep in red, and _garanti veritable_, the -dressing is often ruined by bad vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all -things). When bottled to sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous -spice, oils and mustard flour are used where nothing more is necessary -than the manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good -vinegar--white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent amateurs must have -their splash of Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice with salt and -pepper. This Roquefort dressing is good on all green salads, but on -endive it's something special. - - - SAUCE MORNAY - -Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary -achievement in cheese." - - Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a white sauce - (the French Sauce Bechamel) and add grated Parmesan to your - liking, stirring it in until melted and the sauce is creamy. This - can be snapped up with cayenne or minced parsley, and when used - with fish a little of the cooking broth is added. - - - PLAIN CHEESE SAUCE - -1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white sauce - - This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or hard-cooked - eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 parts of cheese to 4 - of white sauce, it is delicious on boiled cauliflower, baked - potatoes, macaroni and crackers soaked in milk. - - The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter with the - flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg yolk in with - the cheese. - -From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes: - -_Thin_: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty milk toast, -sometimes spiced with curry. - -_Medium_: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in milk. - -_Thick_: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured generously over -bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the -sauce sink in. - - - PARSLEYED CHEESE SAUCE - - This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven the - cabbage family--hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels - sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled over. - - -CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - - -Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a bounteous -cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not indispensable, -recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or overlooked or crowded -out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, -Souffles, etc. - - -_Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks_ - -Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by pressing -through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with any seasoning or -relish. - - SUGGESTIONS: - - Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or all three, - with or without a touch of Worcestershire. - - Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce. - - Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, minced - capers, pickles, or minced ham. - - Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for your - favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. This last - is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese creamed with - sweet butter. - - All canape butters are ideally suited to stuffing stalks. - Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed. - - A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the leafy tops - off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or anything similarly - suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but keep them in order, to - reassemble in the head after each is stuffed with a different - mixture, using any of the above, or a tangy mix of your own - concoction. - - After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, - press them together in the form of the original head, tie tight, - and chill. When ready, slice in rolls about 8-inch thick and - arrange as a salad on a bed of water cress or lettuce, moistened - with French dressing. - - - Cold Dunking - - Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be had by - moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or lemon in a - dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently liquefied, it is - liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, onions, pimiento - and/or other relish. Then a couple of tins of anchovies are - macerated and stirred in, oil and all. - - - Cheese Charlotte - - Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted slices of - bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet butter with 2 - eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of grated cheese. Bake - until golden brown in slow oven. - - - Straws - - Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, fold and - roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese each time. Chill - dough in refrigerator and cut in straw-size strips. Stiffly salt - a beaten egg yolk and glaze with that to give a salty taste. Bake - for several minutes until crisp. - - - Supa Shetgia[B] - -[Footnote B: (from _Cheese Cookery_, by Helmut Ripperger)] - - _This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known - in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one - has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how - perfectly it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, - is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned - tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased_. - - Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup - plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss - cheese. Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over - it some boiling milk. Cover the plate and let it stand for - several minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Serve - topped with browned, hot butter. Use whole nutmeg and grate it - freshly. - - -WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - - -Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from -soups to spaghetti--and indeed any vegetable--that a shaker of grated -Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, -or is served freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup -might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great -minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient -along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, -olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth. - -Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the -Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's served up as a -separate tidbit with the meats. - -Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as -the French are wont to use more wine in cooking. - - - Pfeffernuesse and Caraway - -The gingery little "pepper nuts," _pfeffernuesse_, imported from -Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best -accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish -of caraway. - - - Diablotins - -Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated -cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution. - - -CHEESE OMELETS - - - Cheddar Omelet - - Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun - to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be - called a Wild Omelet. - Cook as usual. Fold and serve. - - - Parmesan Omelet (mild) - - Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in - place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar. - - - Parmesan Omelet (full flavored) - - As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows: - Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the - beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the - omelet begins to set. - - - A Meal-in-One Omelet - - Fry 1/2 dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup - of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to equal crispness. - Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1-1/2 - tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 - tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste. - - - Tomato and - - Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh tomato and - dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put under broiler - until cheese melts to a golden brown. - - - Omelet with Cheese Sauce - - Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when finished, - cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white sauce in which 1/4 - pound of shredded cheese has been melted, and mixed well with 1/2 - cup cooked, diced celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced. - -The French use grated Gruyere for this with all sorts of sauces, such -as the _Savoyar de Savoie_, with potatoes, chervil, tarragon and -cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning -with a salamander. - - - Spanish Flan--Quesillo - -FOR THE CARAMEL: -1/2 cup sugar -4 tablespoons water - -FOR THE FLAN: -4 eggs, beaten separately -2 cups hot milk -1/2 cup sugar -Salt - - Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour it into - a baking mold. - - Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven about - 3/4 hour. - - - Italian Fritto Misto - - The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with - whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat - are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and - giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato, - and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk - of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture. - - - Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese) - - Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very - thin and cut in 2-inch squares. - - Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted - butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless - currents. - - Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to - make little pockets. - - Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil - steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst - open. - - Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a - sprinkling of bread crumbs. - - This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes. - - - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes - - Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some - old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked - bacon. - - -If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a - - Sauteed Swiss Sandwich - - Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly - buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it - with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry - on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved - on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and - a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this - until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter - made strong men cry for it. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Ten_ - -Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - - -In America cheese got its start in country stores in our -cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up -the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap -cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the -flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too -palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo -the cat off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be -beat today. - -At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was -our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont -Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. -When Orton heard we were writing this book, he sent samples from the -store his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. Together -with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese and the Sage came a -handy handmade Cracker Basket, all wicker, ten crackers long and just -one double cracker wide. A snug little casket for those puffy, -old-time, two-in-one soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the -taste of the accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's -made to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on one -half and another on t'other, or sandwich them between. - -Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the corner -saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never faltered till -Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was soon pepped up as -saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, bowls of pickles, -peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with plenty of mustard, -pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese -forever together, as in the free-lunch ditty of that great day: - - I am an Irish hunter; - I am, I ain't. - I do not hunt for deer - But beer. - Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag. - - I do not hunt for fleas - But cheese. - Oh, Adolph, bring the free lunch. - -It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to coast. In -every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger--manly -cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden -yellow, tangy mellow, always cut in cubes. Cheese takes the cube form -as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon. - -On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely cubes, free -Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to lead the tired -businessman in by the nose; or a smear of Canadian Snappy out of a -pure white porcelain pot in the classy places, on a Bent's water -biscuit. - - -SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - -Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of which there -is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us consume most of our -country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar and Swiss. To attempt to -classify and describe all of these would be impossible, so we will -content ourselves by picking a few of the cold and hot, the plain and -the fancy, the familiar and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum -up the situation. - - -A Alpine Club Sandwich - - Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick slice of - imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, and the usual - club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of chicken or turkey, - tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf. - - -B Boston Beany, Open-face - - Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it generously - with hot baked beans and a thick layer of shredded Cheddar. Top - with bacon and put under a slow broiler until cheese melts and - the bacon crisps. - - -C Cheeseburgers - - Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, - using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a nice slice - of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the - hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and - begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, - toasted sandwich buns. - - -D Deviled Rye - - Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot oven. Cool - until crisp again. Then spread thickly with cream cheese, - bedeviled with catsup, paprika or pimiento. - - -E Egg, Open-faced - - Saute minced small onion and small green pepper in 2 tablespoons - of butter and make a sauce by cooking with a cup of canned - tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. Fry 4 eggs and put one - in the center of each of 4 pieces of hot toast spread with the - red sauce. Sprinkle each generously with grated Cheddar, broil - until melted and serve with crisp bacon. - - -F French-fried Swiss - - Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported Gruyere, - soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry slowly till cheese melts - and the sandwich is nicely browned. This is a specialty of - Franche-Comte. - - -G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar - - Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them on both - sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked chicken, 1/2 - slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a sprinkling of minced ham. - Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut in half and dip thoroughly in a - mixture of egg and milk. Grill golden on both sides and serve - with lengthwise slices of dill pickle. - - -H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced - - Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a layer of - mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then one of Swiss - cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped with mustard and a - sowing of capers. - - -I International Sandwich - - Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, cover soft, - untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread lightly with mustard, - top that with a wheel of Bermuda onion and 1 or 2 slices of - Italian-type tomato. Season with cayenne and salt, dot with - butter, cover with Brazil nuts and brown under the broiler. - - -J Jurassiennes, or Croutes Comtoises - - Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture of onion - browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with grated Gruyere. - Simmer until cheese melts, and serve. - - -K Kuemmelkaese - - If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish slab of - Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese, which translates caraway cheese. For good - measure sprinkle caraway seeds on top, or serve them in a saucer - on the side. Then dash on a splash of kuemmel, the caraway liqueur - that's best when imported. - - -L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup - - Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French dressing for - 1/2 hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft - Limburger, top with onion and you will have something - super-duper--if you like Limburger. - - When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has - quite another character and flavor, so true Limburger addicts - make one of each and take alternate bites for the thrill of - contrast. - - -M Meringue, Open-faced (from the Browns' _10,000 Snacks_) - - Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 slice of - bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter on untoasted - side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over butter, and the yolk - of an egg in the center. Beat egg white stiff with a few grains - of salt and pile lightly on top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons - of grated cheese over that and bake in moderate oven until the - egg white is firm and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown. - - -N Neufchatel and Honey - - We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with thin, - decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, then with - Neufchatel topped with some fine honey--Mount Hymettus, if - possible. - - Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the Neufchatel, but - nothing will take the place of the honey to make this heavenly - sandwich that must have been the original ambrosia. - - -O Oskar's Ham-Cam - - Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 - superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, - perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, - open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost - any one-way slice you desire. He uses as many contrasting kinds - of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh - and whipped. The Ham-Cam base involves "a juicy, tender slice of - freshly boiled, mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on - the ham as thick as velvet. - - The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver - paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and - _remoulade_," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," - "a slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira jelly, - with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to - Camembert on ham. - - -P Pickled Camembert - - Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe - imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't summer). Make a - mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and - spread it on. Top this with a thin slice of white bread for - pleasing contrast with the black. - - -Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich - - On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, crusty - white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese - made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." This last translates - back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the - world--on a par with fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy - cheese lightly with imported capers, and you'll say it's - scrumptious. - - -R Roquefort Nut - - Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine - Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian - paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes. Finish it off - with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof. - - -S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich - - Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or - a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with - sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese. - - Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New - York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, - is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king - of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as - above. - - Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with - cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, - while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of - this world. We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong - China tea. - - -T Tangy Sandwich - - On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay thinly - sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef with - horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old chopped - chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on every cheese - sandwich, try different kinds for a change: sharp English freshly - mixed by your own hand out of the tin of powder, or Dijon for a - French touch. - - -U Unusual Sandwich--of Flowers, Hay and Clover - - On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a layer of - equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with petals of rose, - marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with French Fromage de foin. - This French hay cheese gets its name from being ripened on hay - and holds its new-mown scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers - (the smaller they are, the better), with a little of the luscious - juice, and dust lightly with Sapsago. - - -V Vegetarian Sandwich - - Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store - cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with chopped - chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms - that suits your fancy. - - -W Witch's Sandwich - - Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin slice of - imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop or two of - tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled ham and press it - together with the cheese between the two bread slices, put in a - hot oven and serve piping hot with a handful of - "moonstones"--those outsize pearl onions. - - -X Xochomilco Sandwich - - In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a drop to be - had that's native to the festive, floating gardens near Mexico - City. For there, instead of the cow, a sort of century plant - gives milky white _pulque_, the fermented juice of this - cactuslike desert plant. With this goes a vegetable cheese curded - by its own vegetable rennet. It's called tuna cheese, made from - the milky juice of the prickly pear that grows on yet another - cactuslike plant of the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes - teams up in arid lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced - into a tortilla sandwich. The milky _pulque_ of Xochomilco goes - as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese sandwich. - - - Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich - - Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with cream - cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt and a touch - of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole wheat bread. - - -Z Zebra - - Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own - Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those oft-photoed skins - in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various - white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern. - -For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese -sandwiches. - - - Toasted Cheese Sandwich - - Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and sandwich - between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp cheese, egg - yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with stiffly beaten - egg white folded in last to make a light filling. Fry the - buttered sandwich in more butter until well melted and nicely - gilded. - -This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, -who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the -form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh -Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyere, that serves as a liaison to -further sandwich the two. - -Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to -this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the -equally Dutch Pennsylvanians. - -England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with -such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. -Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's -quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew. - - - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich - -1 pound grated Cheddar -1 egg, well beaten -1/2 cup milk -1 tablespoon butter - - Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eleven_ - -"Fit for Drink" - - - A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for - drink. - - -Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according -to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk -cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and -no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine -to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and -body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. -Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory. - -While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, -Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of -gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on -the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon -and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But -professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They -may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of -Roquefort or cube of Gruyere in working hours, lest it give the wine a -spurious nobility. - -And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanee has the closest affinity for it. -Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Eveque and Beaujolais, Brie -and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rose_. Heavenly -marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both -Cotes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, -Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be -made for each other, as do Chateau Margaux and Camembert. - -A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in -the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valencay, -Vendome and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyere mates -with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most -commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French -cheeses. - -Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being -Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French -Neufchatel cheese and Swiss Neuchatel wine from just across the -border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben -(grape cheese), named from the Neuchatel wine in which it is aged. - -One kind of French Neufchatel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited -to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape -and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas -(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly -suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian -Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The -affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven. - -Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with -wines, according to these matches registered by Andre Simon in _The -Art of Good Living:_ - -Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port -White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry -Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port -Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - -To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of -Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer. - -The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and -liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent -imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit -Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks. - -While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, -we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we -can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig -and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or -Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin -Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately. - -Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kuemmel -with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of -caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper -berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage -Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. -One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee -laced with gin. - -French la Jonchee is another potted thriller with not only coffee and -rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then -there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with -brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy. - -In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In -Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and -the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional -Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and -hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge -Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own -Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Eveque. - -The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. -Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go -well together. - -Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some -cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than -vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Twelve_ - -Lazy Lou - - -Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his -heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere -in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. -Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped -back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To -cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and -its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there -came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread." - -The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are -handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people -even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of -their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them. - -My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in -1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with -profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma -Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, -keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and -naturalized Limburgers. - -At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep -their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One -booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation: - - CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM - WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD - -These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any -amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with -German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or -not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? -How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? -Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought. - -Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese -board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the -teams against each other. - - The All-American Champs - -NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ -VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER - CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE - MINNESOTA BLUE - BRICK - TILLAMOOK - - VS. - - The European Giants - -PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN -OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER -YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ - ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE -GERMAN MUeNSTER GREEK FETA - HABLE - -The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and -distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian -board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine -with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates -representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland. - -For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the -banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal -Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all -three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky -slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, -about which more later. - -We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant -roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou -will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English -have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, -herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make -do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With -our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily -dispense with the mere dinner itself. - -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. - -True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American -products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are -available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party -will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun. - -Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One -may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; -another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from -Colombia's mountain city, Merida, and still wrapped in its aromatic -leaves of _Frailejon Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet -English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with -marigolds; another a tube of South American Kraeuterkaese. - -Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of -those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you -want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille -condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty -shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of -different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, -in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green -Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored." - -And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling -cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap -Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are -handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper -pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, -both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of -curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint -leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh -tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black -olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats. - -Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my -wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes -nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting -party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to -twirl the load. - -The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and -the lower one carried the rest, as follows: - - ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR - (rum flavored) - - FRENCH MUeNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH - CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT - - SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA - - ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN - PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST - - HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER - -The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and -Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, -scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly -Britishers fingers were best. - -The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our -best domestic "bar cheese" of old. - -The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented -flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's -Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was -strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price. - -Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy -English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in -waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But -there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to -much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally. - -The French Muenster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than -most German Muenster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by -the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly -matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with -many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones -sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted -the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A -plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, -stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American -pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and -tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they -are not Roquefort. - -The Sapsago or Kraeuterkaese from Switzerland (it has been made in the -Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive -of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted -fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own -seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is -mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like -sage-green color. - -Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyere, delicately rich, and nutty -enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it -at the source. - -As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes -it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring -flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own -and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another -American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a -pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and -with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet. - -The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as -fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so -much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the -crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise. - -After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on -its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously -ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about -them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load. - -The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked -ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of -its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for -it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a -ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so -we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer -some other day, when it might be more appetizing. - -We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost -that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the -same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our -piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, -undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned -out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a -Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert -about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail -on his little finger. - -"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than -a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you -take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure -for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in -Worcestershire." - -That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, -_instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with -anything less than a blowtorch. - -To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian -Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing -it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with -sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. -We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in -the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and -chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then -spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. -_That's_ Liptauer Garniert. - - - - -[Illustration: No. 4 Cheese Inc.] - -_Appendix_ - -The A-B-Z of Cheese - -_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any -further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese -is made of cow's milk._ - - -A - -Aberdeen -_Scotland_ - -Soft; creamy mellow. - -Abertam -_Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_) - -Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own. - -Absinthe _see_ Petafina. - -Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel. - -Aettekees -_Belgium_ - -November to May--winter-made and eaten. - -Affine, Carre _see_ Ancien Imperial. - -Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella. - -After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8. - -Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated. - -Aiguilles, Fromage d' -_Alpine France_ - -Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the -district where it is made. - -Aizy, Cendree d' _see_ Cendree. - -Ajacilo, Ajaccio -_Corsica_ - -Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French -Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. - -a la Creme _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons. - -a la Main _see_ Vacherin. - -a la Pie _see_ Fromage. - -a la Rachette _see_ Bagnes. - -Albini -_Northern Italy_ - -Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, -pleasant-tasting table cheese. - -Albula -_Switzerland_ - -Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk -that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula -whose proud name it bears. - -Alderney -_Channel Islands_ - -The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special -breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate -it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny. - -Alemtejo -_Portugal_ - -Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way -that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; -sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing -respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller -sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The -method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and -unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made -from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two -other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da -Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. -In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with -_chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so -much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks -for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference -in sizes. - -Alfalfa _see_ Sage. - -Alise Saint-Reine -_France_ - -Soft; summer-made. - -Allgaeuer Bergkaese, Allgaeuer Rundkaese, or Allgaeuer Emmentaler -_Bavaria_ - -Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgaeu names a mountain -of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are -two principal kinds, vintage Allgaeuer Bergkaese and soft Allgaeuer -Rahmkaese, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through -rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme -that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it -is no wonder that Allgaeuer Bergkaese can compete with the best Swiss. -Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgaeu -were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home -caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early -1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went -up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only -when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgaeu found they had reached their -prime. - -Allgaeuer Rahmkaese -_Bavaria_ - -Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. -This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian -mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with -the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the -stronger, smellier Bierkaese, or the old-time Slipcote of England. -Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. -Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkaese, -Rahmkaese can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses -in Germany. - -Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe. - -Al Pepe -_Italy_ - -Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_). - -Alpes -_France_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. - -Alpestra -_Austria_ - -A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it -was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy -spells hers Alpestro. - -Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briancon -_France_ - -Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briancon and Gap. - -Alpestro -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted. - -Alpin or Clerimbert -_Alpine France_ - -The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80 deg. F. in two hours. The curd is -dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half -inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day -only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. - -Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkaese -_Germany_ - -Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in -diameter, weight two pounds. - -Alt Kuhkaese Old Cow Cheese -_Germany_ - -Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests. - -Altsohl _see_ Brinza. - -Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert -_Limagne, Auvergne, France_ - -A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the -Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe. - -American, American Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen -fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and -Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, -with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, -Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about -sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same -way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are -ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, -richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the -passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4. - -Americano Romano -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; brittle; sharp. - -Amou -_Bearn, France_ - -Winter cheese, October to May. - -Anatolian -_Turkey_ - -Hard; sharp. - -Anchovy Links -_U.S.A._ - -American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any -fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy -links. - -Ancien Imperial -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchatel and made -in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, -one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when -ripe. It is also called Carre and has separate names for the new and -the old: (a) Petit Carre when newly made; (b) Carre Affine, when it -has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same -time as Neufchatel. - -Ancona _see_ Pecorino. - -Andean -_Venezuela_ - -A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Merida. It is formed into rough -cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejon -Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic -flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.) - -Andechs -_Bavaria_ - -A lusty Allgaeuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on -Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread -and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes. - -Antwerp -_Belgium_ - -Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin. - -Appenzeller -_Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_ - -Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a -pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two -qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a -year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white -wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with -lees of wine. - -Appetitost -_Denmark_ - -Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up -to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in -which it is made. - -Appetost -_Denmark_ - -Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for -snap. Imitated in U.S.A. - -Apple -_U.S.A._ - -A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked -apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone -and Baby Gouda, no doubt. - -Arber -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains -between Bohemia and Silesia. - -Argentine -_Argentina_ - -Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical -Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and -fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding. - -Armavir -_Western Caucasus_ - -Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour -buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in -a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese. - -Arnauten _see_ Travnik. - -Arovature -_Italy_ - -Water-buffalo milk. - -Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs. - -Arrigny -_Champagne, France_ - -Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the -same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are -specially well suited to one another. - -Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte. - -Artificial Dessert Cheese - -In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made -by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with -powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred -in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a -curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six -to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored -with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an -hour or two and finally served up with more cream. - -Asadero, or Oaxaca -_Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_ - -White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or -kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight -Asadero means "suitable for roasting." - -Asco -_Corsica, France_ - -Made only in the winter season, October to May. - -Asiago I, II and III -_Vicenza, Italy_ - -Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves -weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but -have a taste all their own. - -I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating. - -II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine -months old. - -III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's -fine for grating. - - -Asin, or Water cheese -_Northern Italy_ - -Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring -and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with -honey and fruit. - -Au Cumin -_see_ Muenster. - -Au Fenouil -_see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Au Foin and de Foin - -A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage -de Foin. - -Augelot -_Valee d'Auge, Normandy, France_ - -Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Eveque type. - -d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne. - -Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney. - -Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Aurore and Triple Aurore -_Normandy, France_ - -Made and eaten all year. - -Australian and New Zealand -_Australia and New Zealand_ - -Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some -Gruyere, but unfortunately mostly processed. - -Autun -_Nivernais, France_ - -Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it -and this is of special interest in a province where the chief -competitors are made of goat's milk. - -Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu. - -Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses. - -Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette. - -Aydes, les -_Orleanais, France_ - -Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June. - -Azeitao, Queijo do -_Portugal_ - -Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ao_ implies. -There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of -rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. - -Azeitoso -_Portugal_ - -Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named. - -Azuldoch Mountain -_Turkey_ - -Mild and mellow mountain product. - - -B - -Backsteiner -_Bavaria_ - -Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the -shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. -Brick. - -Bagnes, or Fromage a la Raclette -_Switzerland_ - -Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for -"scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese -and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted -in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced -Welsh Rabbit sandwich. - -Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano -_Italy_ - -Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. - -Bakers' cheese - -Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. -Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, -but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. - -Ball -_U.S.A._ - -Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original -Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. - -Ballakaese or Womelsdorf - -Similar to Ball. - -Balls, Dutch Red - -English name for Edam. - -Banbury -_England_ - -Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, -famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury -cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early -nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today. - -Banick -_Armenia_ - -White and sweet. - -Banjaluka -_Bosnia_ - -Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery. - -Banon, or les Petits Banons -_Provence, France,_ - -Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and -exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly -summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and -festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. - -Bar cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the -U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of -America's cheese industry. - -Barbacena -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading -cheese state of Brazil. - -Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in -diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, -near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated -by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with -a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off -in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened -three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when -made in summer they are often sold fresh. - -Barboux -_France_ - -Soft. - -Baronet -_U.S.A._ - -A natural product, mild and mellow. - -Barron -_France_ - -Soft. - -Bassillac _see_ Bleu. - -Bath -_England_ - -Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic -resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered -with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most -delicate of English-speaking cheeses. - -Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and -western Austria_ - -An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is -only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty -to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower -temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months ---and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though -sharp, full nutty flavor. - -Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) -_Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_ - -Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in -about the same way as Harzkaese, though it is bigger. In two forms, one -cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, -whether made with or without caraway. - -Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkaese. - -Bavarian Cream -_German_ - -Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. -Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. - -Bavarois a la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois. - -Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne. - -Bayrischer Bierkaese -_Bavaria_ - -Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, -but to dunk in it. - -Beads of cheese -_Tibet_ - -Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a -necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. -_Also see_ Money Made of Cheese. - -Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and -also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk -of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. - -Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons. - -Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont -_Savoy, France_ - -A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret -triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June. - -Beaupre de Roybon -_Dauphine, France_ - -A winter specialty made from November to April. - -Beckenried -_Switzerland_ - -A good mountain cheese from goat milk. - -Beer cheese -_U.S.A._ - -While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a -translation of Bierkaese, we use it chiefly for a type of strong -Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is -considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in -Germany Bierkaese is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of -beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather -than eaten. - -Beer-Regis -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar -named after its hometown in Dorsetshire. - -Beist-Cheese -_Scotland_ - -A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled -or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling -new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill) - -Belarno -_Italy_ - -Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese. - -Belgian Cooked -_Belgium_ - -The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed -and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is -allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to -fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the -fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is -heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds -and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs -about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from -other forms of cooked cheese. - -Beli Sir _see_ Domaci. - -Bellelay, Tete de Moine, or Monk's Head -_Switzerland_ - -Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet -in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not -so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, -the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can -stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are -ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to -ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, -the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is -kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy -spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more -white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest -monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the -jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively -and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. - -Bel Paese -_Italy_ - -_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, -and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The -American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. - -Bel Paesino -_U.S.A._ - -A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive -in every other way. - -Bergkaese _see_ Allgaeuer. - -Bergquara -_Sweden_ - -Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets -sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to -forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century. - -Berkeley -_England_ - -Named after its home town in Gloucester, England. - -Berliner Kuhkaese -_Berlin, Germany_ - -Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical -German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's -about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkaese, without caraway. - -Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde -_Italy_ - -Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for -flavor. Cured for two months. - -Berques -_France_ - -Made of skim milk. - -Berry Rennet _see_ Withania. - -Bessay, le -_Bourbonnais, France_ - -Soft, mild, and creamy. - -Bexhill -_England_ - -Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. - -Bierkaese -_Germany_ - -There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually -dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, -notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmuetzer. Semisoft; aromatic; -sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as -Milwaukee and Hoboken. - -Bifrost -_Norway_ - -Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce -package. - -Binn -_Wallis, Switzerland_ - -Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. - -Bitto -_Northern Italy_ - -Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses -in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When -eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has -small eyes. - -Blanc a la creme _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II. - -Bleu -_France_ - -Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting. - -Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu -_Auvergne, France_ - -Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and -Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same -province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille. - -Bleu de Bassillac -_Limousin, France_ - -Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May. - -Bleu de Laqueuille -_France_ - -Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its -originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century -ago, in 1854. - -Bleu de Limousin, Fromage -_Lower Limousin_ - -Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin. - -Bleu de Salers -_France_ - -A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for -its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only -in the winter months, from November to May. - -Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Blind - -The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong -to, such as blind Swiss. - -Block Edam -_U.S.A._ - -U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of -Edam. - -Block, Smoked -_Austria_ - -The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum. - -Bloder, or Schlicker Milch -_Switzerland_ - -Sour-milker. - -Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton. - -Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue. - -Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset. - -Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel. - -Blue, and Blue with Port Links -_U.S.A._ - -One of the modern American process sausages. - -Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota. - -Blue Moon -_U.S.A._ - -A process product. - -Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for -private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An -epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in -a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal -Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from -which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a -different action. - -Bocconi Geganti -_Italy_ - -Sharp and smoky specialty. - -Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone. - -Boite _see_ Fromage de Boite. - -Bombay -_India_ - -Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of -a cracker. - -Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchatel. - -Bondon de Neufchatel, or Bondes -_Normandy, France_ - -Nicknamed _Bonde a tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a -barrel of Neuchatel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. -Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. - -Bondon de Rouen -_France_ - -A fresh Neufchatel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to -last up to ten days. - -Bondost -_Sweden_ - -When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost -in Norway. - -Bond Ost -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin. - -Bon Larron -_France_ - -Romantically named "the penitent thief." - -Borden's -_U.S.A._ - -A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the -leader. - -Borelli -_Italy_ - -A small water-buffalo cheese. - -Bossons Maceres -_Provence, France_ - -A winter product, December, January, February and March only. - -Boudanne -_France_ - -Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months. - -Boudes, Boudon -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchatel family. - -Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe. - -Bouille, la -_Normandy France_ - -One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In -season October to May. - -Boule de Lille -_France_ - -Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it. - -Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai -_Flanders, France_ - -Made from November to May, eaten all year. - -Bourgain -_France_ - -Type of fresh Neufchatel made in France. Perishable and consumed -locally. - -Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes. - -Box -_Wuerttemberg, Germany_ - -Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft: - -I. Also known as Schachtelkaese, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it -is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with -partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a -handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three -months and shipped in wooden boxes. - -II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess -and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant. - -Bra No. I -_Piedmont, Italy_ - -Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight -twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander -with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. - -Bra No. II -_Turin and Cuneo, Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine. - -Brand or Brandkaese -_Germany_ - -Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd -is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a -day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. -After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently -moistened with beer while curing. - -Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream. - -Branja de Brailia -_Rumania_ - -Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine. - -Branja de Cosulet -_Rumania_ - -Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A -creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism -of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a -gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good -English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor -which must be unique among cheeses. - -Bratkaese -_Switzerland_ - -Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on -toast. - -Breakfast, Fruehstueck, Lunch, Delikat, and other names -_Germany_ - -Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. -Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in -Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. - -Breakstone -_U.S.A._ - -Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and -manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream -cheese is an American product to be proud of. - -Bresegaut -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, white. - -Breslau -_Germany_ - -A proud Prussian dessert cheese. - -Bressans _see_ les Petits. - -Bresse -_France_ - -Lightly cooked. - -Bretagne _see_ Montauban. - -Brevine -_Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Briancon _see_ Alpin. - -Brick _see_ Chapter 4. - -Brickbat -_Wiltshire, England_ - -A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. -Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before -"it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton. - -Bricotta -_Corsica_ - -Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into -small luscious cakes. - -Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendre and Coulommiers. - -Brie Facon -_France_ - -The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. -Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie -_veritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly -called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France. - -_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France. - -Brie de Meaux -_France_ - -This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation -for high quality. It is made only from November to May. - -Brie de Melun -_France_ - -This Brie _veritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from -November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always -prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring -Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that -ripens until May. - -Brillat-Savarin -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du -Gout_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject -beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is -named in his everlasting praise. - -Brina Dubreala -_Rumania_ - -Semisoft, sheep, done in brine. - -Brindza -_U.S.A._ - -Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as -popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and -Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise -"Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original -Brinza. - -Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, -Brina Dubreala, Briney. - -Briney, or Brined -_Syria_ - -Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. -Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type. - -Brinza, or Brinsen -_Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_ - -Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, -Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, -sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub -with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia. - -Brioler _see_ Westphalia. - -Briquebec _see_ Providence - -Briqueton -_England_ - -The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few -cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth -century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at -the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche. - -Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, -and U.S. Hopi. - -Brizecon -_Savoy, France_ - -Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province. - -Broccio, or le Brocconis -_Corsica, France_ - -Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to -Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, -where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and -half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and -eaten all year. - -Broodkaas -_Holland_ - -Hard, flat, nutty. - -Brousses de la Vezubie, les -_Nice, France_ - -Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar -or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vezubie. - -Brussels or Bruxelles -_Belgium_ - -Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal -districts. - -Budapest -_Hungary_ - -Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and -abroad in Vienna. - -Buderich -_Germany_ - -A specialty in Dusseldorf. - -Bulle -_Switzerland_ - -A Swiss-Gruyere. - -Bundost -_Sweden_ - -Semihard; mellow; tangy. - -Burgundy -_France_ - -Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully -together. - -Bushman -_Australia_ - -Semihard; yellow; tangy. - -Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8. - -"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar. - -Buttermilk -_U.S. & Europe_ - -Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain. - - -C - -Cabecou, le -_Auvergne, France_ - -Small; goat; from Maurs. - -Cabrillon -_Auvergne, France_ - -So much like the Cabrecon they might be called sister nannies under -the rind. - -Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux - -_Provence Mountains, France_ - -Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry -seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to -November. - -Caciocavallo -_Italy_ - -"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated -all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Caciocavallo Siciliano -_Sicily, also in U.S.A._ - -Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but -sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between -17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. - -Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta -_Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten -fresh. - -Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino. - -Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari. - -Caerphilly -_Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_ - -Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold -"green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when -weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities -it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it -specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and -does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. - -Caillebottes (Curds) -_France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendee_ - -Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with -chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and -served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. -A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchee (_see_). Other cheeses -are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon -juice, especially in Portugal. - -Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots. - -Caille de Habas -_Gascony, France_ - -Clabbered or clotted sheep milk. - -Cajassou -_Perigord, France_ - -A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac. - -Calabrian -_Italy_ - -The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo. - -Calcagno -_Sicily_ - -Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating. - -Caledonian Cream -_Scotland_ - -More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner -Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange -marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half -an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good -ice-pudding." - -Calvados -_France_ - -Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same -province. - -Calvenzano -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. - -Cambrai _see_ Boulette. - -Cambridge, or York -_England_ - -Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and -dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours. - -Camembert _see_ Chapter 3. - -"Camembert" -_Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_ - -A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box -which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert -_veritable_ of Normandy. - -Camosun -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed -in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated -with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50 deg. -to 60 deg. F. - -Canadian Club -_see_ Cheddar Club. - -Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, -Fromagere, Tempete and "Puree" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comte, -France_ - -Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and -sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and -pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one -of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort. - -Canestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to -mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to -perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for -Italian settlers. - -Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and -La Tome. -_Auvergne, France_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; -yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a -hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures -is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still -made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very -old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or -Guiole. - -Capitanata -_Italy_ - -Sheep. - -Caprian -_Capri, Italy_ - -Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, -and tangy as a buck. - -Caprino (Little Goat) -_Argentina_ - -Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese. - -Caraway Loaf -_U.S.A._ - -This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses -that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kuemmel loaf cheese -but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long -made a good Kuemmelkaese or hand cheese and it would take more than the -fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from -Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian -Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to -Pennsylvania Pot. - -Cardiga, Queijo da -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, -a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other -cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild -artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can -compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. -They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. - -Carlsbad -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive. - -Carre Affine -_France_ - -Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carre and -Ancien Imperial (_see_). - -Carre de l'Est -_France_ - -Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A. - -Cascaval Penir -_Turkey_ - -Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home. - -Caseralla -_Greece_ - -Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy. - -Casere -_Greece_ - -Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet -tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with -goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. - -Cashera -_Armenia and Greece_ - -Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and -high in quality. - -Cashera -_Turkey_ - -Semihard; sheep. - -Casher Penner _see_ Kasher. - -Cashkavallo -_Syria_ - -Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo. - -Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca -_Sardinia_ - -Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method. - -Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta. - -Caspian -_Caucasus_ - -Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to -speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting. - -Cassaro -_Italy_ - -Locally consumed, seldom exported. - -Castelmagno -_Italy_ - -Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type. - -Castelo Branco, White Castle -_Portugal_ - -Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da -Estrella (_see_). - -Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Castle, Schlosskaese -_North Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Catanzaro -_Italy_ - -Consumed locally, seldom exported. - -Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf. - -Celery -_Norway_ - -Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway. - -Cendree, la -_France--Orleanais, -Blois & Aube_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrees are Champenois or Ricey, -Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet - -Cendre d'Aizy -_Burgundy, France_ - -Available all year. _See_ la Cendree. - -Cendre de la Brie -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May. - -Cendre Champenois or Cendre des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes. - -Cendre Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis. - -Certoso Stracchino -_Italy, near Milan_ - -A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have -made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than -the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has -less distinction for the same reason. - -Ceva -_Italy_ - -Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. - -Chabichou -_Poitou, France_ - -Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months -from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to -be vintaged like wine by the year. - -Chaingy -_Orleans, France_ - -Season September to June. - -Cham -_Switzerland_ - -One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister -Pfister (_see_ Pfister). - -Chamois milk - -Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. -This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not -available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain -goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, -most flavorsome of milk. - -Champenois or Fromage des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Season from September to June. The same as Cendre Champenois and des -Riceys. - -Champoleon de Queyras -_Hautes-Alpes, France_. - -Hard; skim-milker. - -Chantelle -_U.S.A._ - -Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best -purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, -perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger." - -Chantilly _see_ Hable. - -Chaource -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living -Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert. - -Chapelle -_France_ - -Soft. - -Charmey Fine -_Switzerland_ - -Gruyere type. - -Chaschol, or Chaschosis -_Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_ - -Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by -three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds. - -Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chevre. - -Chaumont -_Champagne, France_ - -Season November to May. - -Chavignol _see_ Crottin. - -Chechaluk -_Armenia_ - -Soft; pot; flaky; creamy. - -Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3. - -Cheese bread -_Russia and U.S.A._ - -For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread -called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See -both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft -and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. -It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid -with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with -Sapsago. - -Cheese butter - -Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and -mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to -be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. - -Cheese food -_U.S.A._ - -"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from -milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, -relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." -(A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement - -Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. - -Cheese mites _see_ Mites. - -Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in -Chapter 3. - -Cheshire-Stilton -_England_ - -In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold -peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by -keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in -which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and -shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, -making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is -Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. - -Chester -_England_ - -Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was -imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. - -Chevalier -_France_ - -Curds sweetened with sugar. - -Chevelle -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Wisconsin. - -Chevre _see_ Fromages. - -Chevre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. - -Chevre petit _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chevre, Tome de _see_ Tome. - -Chevretin -_Savoy, France_ - -Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. - -Chevrets, Ponta & St. Remy -_Bresse & Franche-Comte, France_ - -Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season -December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in -France. - -Chevretons du Beaujolais a la creme, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the -railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. - -Chevrotins -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and -eaten from March to December. - -Chhana -_Asia_ - -All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, -and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. - -Chiavari -_Italy_ - -There are two different kinds named for -the Chiavari region, and both are hard: - I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. -II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the - historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the - birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with - its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. - -Chives cream cheese - -Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, -there's Belgian Herve and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See -both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as -it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. - -Christalinna -_Canton Graubuenden, Switzerland_ - -Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. - -Christian IX -_Denmark_ - -A distinguished spiced cheese. - -Ciclo -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese. - -Cierp de Luchon -_France_ - -Made from November to May in the Comte de Foix, where it has the -distinction of being the only local product worth listing with -France's three hundred notables. - -Citeaux -_Burgundy, France_ - -Trappist Port-Salut. - -Clabber cheese -_England_ - -Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and -automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. - -Clairvaux -_France_ - -Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. - -Claqueret, le -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ -Chives. - -Clerimbert _see_ Alpin. - -Cleves -_France_ - -French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. - -Cloves _see_ Nagelkaese. - -Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese -_U.S.A. and Canada_ - -Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, -but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by -an American company and is now all-American. - -Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very -ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp -Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and -mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are -getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. -All are described as "tangy." - -Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small -porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller -tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." - -Cocktail Cheeses - -Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" -stores: - -Argentine aged Gruyere -Canadian d'Oka -French Bleu -Brie -Camembert -Fontainebleu -Pont l'Eveque -Port du Salut -Roblochon -Roquefort -Grecian Feta -Hungarian Brinza -Polish Warshawski Syr -Rumanian Kaskaval -Swiss Schweizerkaese -American Cheddar in brandy -Hopi Indian - -Coeur a la Creme -_Burgundy, France_ - -This becomes Fromage a la Creme II (_see_) when served with sugar, and -it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that -romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. - -Coeurs d'Arras -_Artois, France_ - -These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with -the cream of Arras. - -Coffee-flavored cheese - -Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with -their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with -Jonchee cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving -by putting coffee in for flavor. - -Coimbra -_Portugal_ - -Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of -those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the -honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. - -Colby -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains -more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. - -College-educated - -Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their -colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another -called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big -cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in -Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with -one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of -high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe -the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign -imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in -this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of -Emmentaler. - -Colwick _see_ Slipcote. - -Combe-air -_France_ - -Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. - -Commission -_Holland_ - -Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in -color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight -pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. -It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. - -Compiegne -_France_ - -Soft - -Comte _see_ Gruyere. - -Conches -_France_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Condrieu, Rigotte de la -_Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ - -Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of -cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is -rich. - -Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. - -Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. - -Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot -_U.S.A._ - -Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool -it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. -Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is -stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It -is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned -out. - -All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk -flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to -white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, -with or without caraway, such as the following: - -Belgium--Kochtounkaese -Germany--Kochkaese, Topfen -Luxembourg--Kochenkaese -France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux -Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa - -Coon _see_ Chapter 4. - -Cornhusker -_U.S.A._ - -A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body -and more moisture. - -Cornimont -_Vosges, France_ - -A splendid French version of Alsatian Muenster spiked with caraway, in -flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Gerome -and the harvest cheese of Gerardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. - -Corse, Roquefort de -_Corsica, France_ - -Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of -course. - -Cossack -_Caucasus_ - -Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: -I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in - the salt bath. -II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. - -Cotherstone -_Yorkshire, England_ - -Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) - -Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. - -Cotta _see_ Pasta. - -Cottage cheese - -Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America -it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like -playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from -the German Schmierkaese. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, -together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania -Dutch cuisine. - -Cottenham or Double Cottenham -_English Midlands_ - -Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and -richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. - -Cottslowe -_Cotswold, England_ - -A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. -Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. - -Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) - -Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers -_France_ - -Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a -pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch -high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris -and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is -made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than -most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by -the avalanche of American summer tourists. - -Cow cheese - -Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying -word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkaese and Alt Kuhkaese: old cow -cheese. - -Cream cheese -_International_ - -England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins -with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool -in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild -strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also -drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small -molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the -following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: - -Cambridge -Cottslowe -Cornwall -Farm Vale -Guilford -Homer's -"Italian" -Lincoln -New Forest -Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) -St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) -Scotch Caledonian -Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) -Victoria -York - -Creme Chantilly _see_ Hable. - -Creme de Gien _see_ Fromage. - -Creme de Gruyere -_Franche-Comte France_ - -Soft Gruyere cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in -tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. - -Creme des Vosges -_Alsace, France_ - -Soft cream. Season October to April. - -Creme Double _see_ Double-Creme. - -Creme, Fromage a la _see_ Fromage. - -Creme, Fromage Blanc a la _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Creme St Gervais _see_ Pots de Creme St Gervais. - -Cremet Nantais -_Lower Loire, France_ - -Soft fresh cream of Nantes. - -Cremets, les -_Anjou, France_ - -A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert -than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, -drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and -sugar. - -Cremini -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the -way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of -musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. - -Creole -_Louisiana, U.S.A._ - -Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type -curd and rich cream. - -Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole -milk. Made from September to April. - -Creuse -_Creuse, France_ - -A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different -ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated -earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, -where it has drained for several days: - I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. -II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. - This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay - or Fromage de Foin.) - -Creusois, or Gueret -_Limousin, France_ - -Season, October to June. - -Croissant Demi-sel -_France_ - -Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. - -Crottin de Chavignol -_Berry, France_ - -Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April -to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. - -Crowdie, or Cruddy butter -_Scotland_ - -Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together -with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross -Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd -and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, -the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. - -Crying Kebbuck - -F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name -of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. - -Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. - -Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. - -Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. - -Cumin, Muenster au _see_ Muenster. - -Cup _see_ Koppen. - -Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. - -Curds and butter -_Arabia_ - -Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in -making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong -mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. - -Cure, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. - - -D - -Daisies, fresh - -A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. -Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use -for seasoning. - -Dalmatian -_Austria_ - -Hard ewe's-milker. - -Dambo -_Denmark_ - -Semihard and nutty. - -Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) -_Hungary_ - -Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular -Alpine snack in Viennese cafes with coffee gossip in the afternoon. - -Danish Blue -_Denmark_ - -Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of -Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is -exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although -it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of -Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and -definitely leads lesser Blues. - -Danish Export -_Denmark_ - -Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine -cheese, as many Danish exports are. - -Dansk Schweizerost -_Denmark_ - -Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. -Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. - -Danzig -_Poland_ - -A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, -Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. - -Darling -_U.S.A._ - -One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of -America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. - -Dauphin -_Flanders, France_ - -Season, November to May. - -d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. - -Daventry -_England_ - -A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" -veins of a darker green. - -Decize -_Nivernaise, France_ - -In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. - -de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. - -de Fontine -_Spain_ - -Crumbly, sharp, nutty. - -de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. - -de Gerardmer _see_ Recollet. - -Delft -_Holland_ - -About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) - -Delicieux - -The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. - -Delikat -_U.S.A._ - -A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Fruehstueck -original. (_See_.) - -de Lile, Boule - -French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. - -Demi-Etuve - -Half-size Etuve. (_See_.) - -Demi Petit Suisse - -The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the -Gros. - -Demi-Sel -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly -saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. - -Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. - -Derby, or Derbyshire -_England_ - -Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though -sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A -factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar -to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a -somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the -flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in -spite of its name. - -Devonshire cream and cheese -_England_ - -Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. -Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. -Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, -which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay -cheese. - -Dolce Verde -_Italy_ - -This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because -cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the -green-blues. - -Domaci Beli Sir -_Yugoslavia_ - -"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical -ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. - -Domestic Gruyere -_U.S.A._ - -An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. - -Domestic Swiss -_U.S.A_ - -Same as domestic Gruyere, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous -150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is -there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. - -Domiati -_Egypt_ - -Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no -openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's -called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. - -Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny -_England_ - -Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. -"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. -Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than -that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) - -Dotter -_Nuernberg, Germany_ - -An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nuernberg. He -enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual -way. When well ripened it is splendid. - -Doubles - -The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double -Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses -from which some of the cream has been removed. - -Double-cream -_England_ - -Similar to Wensleydale. - -Double-creme -_France_ - -There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is -richest in cream. The full name is Fromage a la Double-creme, and -Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season -and are much in demand. - -Dresdener Bierkaese -_Germany_ - -A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim -milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as -merely eaten. - -Drinking cheeses - -Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic -countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make -distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up -the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with -pepper sauce in some parts. - -Dry -_Germany_ - -From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. -"This cheese, known as Sperrkaese and Trockenkaese, is made in the small -dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It -is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in -the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other -purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle -which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is -thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked -quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed -are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then -placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready -for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) - -Dubreala _see_ Brina. - -Duel -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. - -Dunlop -_Scotland_ - -One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, -which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. -Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one -of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and -weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of -Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. - -Durak -_Turkey_ - -Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. - -Duralag, or Bgug-Panir -_Armenia_ - -Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy -with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days -to two months. - -Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. - -Dutch -_Holland_ - -Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. - -Dutch cheese - -American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. - -Dutch Cream Cheese -_England_ - -Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore -richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call -the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. - -Dutch Mill -_U.S.A._ - -A specialty of Oakland, California. - -Dutch Red Balls - -English name for Edam. - - -E - -Echourgnac, Trappe d' -_Perigord, France_ - -Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. - -Edam _see_ Chapter 3. - -Egg -_Finland_ - -Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. -Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that -these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by -their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen -their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all -Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of -them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. - -Elbinger, or Elbing -_West Prussia_ - -Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is -skimmed. Also known as Werderkaese and Niederungskaese. - -Ekiwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed -in. - -Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the -brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in -different locales. - -Elmo Table -_Italy_ - -Soft, mellow, tasty. - -Emiliano -_Italy_ - -Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. - -Emmentaler -_Switzerland_ - -There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the -world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese -listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter -3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) - -"En enveloppe" - -French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to -English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to -frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." - -Engadine -_Graubuenden, Switzerland_ - -Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. - -English Dairy -_England and U.S.A._ - -Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been -imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. - -Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. - -Epoisses, Fromage d' -_Cote d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ - -Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The -season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and -cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in -making _confits_ with that name. - -Erbo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out -both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. - -Erce -_Languedoc, France_ - -Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November -to May. - -Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. - -Ervy -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half -inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also -known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. - -Essex -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. - -Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. - -Etuve and Demi-Etuve -_Holland_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season -all year. - -Evarglice -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sharp, nutty flavor. - -Excelsior -_Normandy, France_ - -Season all year. - - -F - -Factory Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp -Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too -tractable, in fact. - -Farm -_France_ - -Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage a la Pie (nothing to do with -apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. - -Farmer -_U.S.A._ - -This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, -fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, -or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the -oven. - -Farmhouse _see_ Herrgardsost. - -Farm Vale -_England_ - -Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, -eight to a box. - -Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. - -Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Ferme _see_ Farm. - -Feta _see_ Chapter 3. - -Feuille de Dreux -_Bearn, France_ - -November to May. - -"Filled cheese" -_England_ - -Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese -business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to -make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed -the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in -America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. -But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many -foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony -fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up -coagulation. - -Fin de Siecle -_Normandy, France_ - -Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the -years at the close of the nineteenth century. - -Fiore di Alpe -_Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." - -Fiore Sardo -_Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully -cured. - -Flandre, Tuile de -_France_ - -A kind of Marolles. - -Fleur de Deauville -_France_ - -A type of Brie, in season December to May. - -Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. - -Floedeost -_Norway_ - -Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. - -Flotost -_Norway_ - -Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. -Similar to Mysost, but fatter. - -Flower -_England_ - -Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, -delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas -scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea -of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese -for them to import except bean curd. - -Fodder cheese - -A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. -Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or -barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. - -Foggiano -_Apulia, Italy_ - -A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. - -Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. - -Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. - -Fontainebleau -_France_ - -Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; -summer variety. - -Fontina -_Val d'Acosta, Italy_ - -Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. - -Fontine, de -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -A favorite all-year product. - -Fontinelli -_Italy_ - -Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. - -Fontini -_Parma, Italy_ - -Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same -region as Parmesan. - -Food cheese -_U.S.A._ - -An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese -content to flavor it. - -Forez, also called d'Ambert -_France_ - -The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening -unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six -inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the -cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. -Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The -flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From -_Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we -are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this -alphabet.) - -Formagelle -_Northwest Italy_ - -Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. - -Formaggi di Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming -and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it -into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, -Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. - -Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco -_Italy_ - -Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. -A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two -ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it -ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with -the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and -cinnamon. - -Formaggio d'Oro -_Northwest Italy_ - -Hard, sharp, mountain-made. - -Formaggio Duro (Dry) -and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. - -Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. - -Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome -_Auvergne, France_ - -This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where -many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as -Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Roche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert -and Cantal.) - -Fourme de Montebrison -_Auvergne, France_ - -This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. - -Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely -it is sometimes sold under that name. - -Fresa, or Pannedas -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. - -Fribourg -_Italy and Switzerland_ - -Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) - -Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese -_Holland_ - -Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is -made in winter, beginning in November. - -Friesian _see_ West Friesian. - -Fromage a la Creme -_France_ - - I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of - Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. - II. Franche-Comte--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, - whipped egg whites and sugar. -III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is - hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a - little fresh milk and served with cream. - IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket - for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur a la Creme, - heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. - -Fromage a la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm - -Fromage Bavarois a la Vanille -_France_ - -Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after -Bavaria where it probably originated. - -Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Soft cream or cottage cheese, called a la Pie, too, suggesting pie a -la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt -and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage a la -Creme, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, -except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and -called Fromage Blanc a la Creme. - -Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of -fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also -called Fromage de Cure. Other districts devoted to it are -Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. - -Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) -_Thionville, Lorraine, France_ - -Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in -many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed -and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk -and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. - -Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. - -Fromage de Bayonne -_Bayonne, France_ - -Made with ewe's milk. - -Fromage de Boite -_Doubs, France_ - -Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Eveque. - -Fromage de Bourgogne - -_see_ Burgundy. - -Fromage de Chevre de Chateauroux -_Berry, France_ - -A seasonal goat cheese. - -Fromage de Cure _see_ Nantais. - -Fromage de Fontenay-le Comte -_Poitou, France_ - -Half goat and half cow milk. - -Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. - -Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncee. - -Fromage de St. Remy _see_ Chevrets. - -Fromage de Serac -_Savoy, France_ - -Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. - -Fromage de Troyes -_France_ - -Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) - -Fromage de Vache - -Another name for Autun. - -Fromage de Monsieur Fromage -_Normandy, France_ - -This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season -runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe -from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, -mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name -suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. -Chicken. - -Fromage Fort -_France_ - -Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the -department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth -and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After -being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, -salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before -fermenting some more. - -Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and -Fromagere of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all -France. - -_Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the -gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. - -_Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comte Small dry goat cheeses pounded -and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ -Hazebrook.) - -_Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In -production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with -brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. - -Fromage Gras (fat cheese) -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, round, fat ball called _tete de mort_, "death's head." Winter -Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name -incited Victor Meusy to these lines: - - _Les gens a l'humeur morose - Prennent la Tete-de-Mort._ - - People of a morose disposition - Take the Death's Head. - -Fromage Mou - -Any soft cheese. - -Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. - -Fromagere _see_ Canquillote. - -Fromages de Chevre -_Orleanais, France_ - -Small, dried goat-milkers. - -Fruehstueck - -Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half -to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many -Germans and Americans break their fast. - -Ftinoporino -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. - - -G - -Gaiskaesli -_Germany and Switzerland_ - -A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three -inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half -pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the -whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt -the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. - -Gammelost -_Norway_ - -Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned -daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So -far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way -through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to -medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his -_Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the -ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of -eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi -flavored with cheese." - -Garda -_Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town -on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious -little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the -moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. - -Garden -_U.S.A._ - -Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. - -Garlic -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. - -Garlic-onion Link -_U.S.A._ - -A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, -nobody knows why. - -Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ - -Gautrias -_Mayenne, France_ - -Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. - -Gavot -_Hautes-Alpes, France_ - -A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. - -Geheimrath -_Netherlands_ - -A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep -yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight - -Gerardmer, de _see_ Recollet - -German-American adopted types - -Bierkaese -Delikat -Grinnen -Hand -Harzkaese -Kuemmelkaese -Koppen -Lager -Liederkranz -Mein Kaese -Muenster -Old Heidelberg -Schafkaese (sheep) -Silesian -Stein -Tilsit -Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgaeuer) - -Gerome, la -_Vosges, France_ - -Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Muenster, -but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. -It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. - -Gervais -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Cream cheese like Neufchatel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. -Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. -Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. - -Gesundheitkaese, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. - -Getmesost -_Sweden_ - -Soft; goat; whey; sweet. - -Gex -_Pays de Gex, France_ - -Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from -November to May. - -Gex Marbre -_France_ - -A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, -mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues -family, that are green in spite of their name. - -Gien _see_ Fromage a la Creme. - -Gislev -_Scandinavia_ - -Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. - -Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made -with goat's milk. - -Glavis -_Switzerland_ - -The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) - -Glattkaese, or Gelbkaese -_Germany_ - -Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that -includes Olmuetzer Quargel. - -Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. - -Gloucester -_Gloucestershire, England_ - -There are two types: - I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six - months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of - flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure - its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply - to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you - then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the - praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." - _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by Andre L. Simon. -II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester - ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" - brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and - "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is - from an old vintage." - -Glumse -_West Prussia, Germany_ - -A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. - -Glux -_Nivernais, France_ - -Season, all year. - -Goat -_France_ - -A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. -Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled -dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants -smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, -goat cheese is always notable or noble. - -Gold-N-Rich -_U.S.A._ - -Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. -Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and -deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red -rind. - -Gomost -_Norway_ - -Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is -curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a -butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) - -Gorgonzola -_Italy_ - -Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is -White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by -local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. - -Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. - -Gouda, Kosher -_Holland_ - -The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit -more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the -Jewish authorities who prepare it. - -Goya -_Corrientes, Argentine_ - -Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses -the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes -Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. - -It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines -the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same -for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of -which excel the originals. - -Gournay -_Seine, France_ - -Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 -pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of -an inch thick and four inches long. - -Grana -_Italy_ - -Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that -the curd is cut into. - -Grana Lombardo -_Lombardy_ - -The same hard type for grating, named -after its origin in Lombardy. - -Grana Reggiano -_Reggio, Italy_ - -A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not -only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes -by a pet name of its own--Regianito. - -Grande Bornand, la -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. - -Gras, or Velvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tete de -Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of -Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tete de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras -is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France -and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) - -Gratairon -_France_ - -Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. - -Graubuenden -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Green Bay -_U.S.A._ - -Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the -Limburger county. - -Grey -_Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ - -Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. -Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. -It has a very pleasant taste. - -Gruyere _see_ Chapter 3. - -Guessing, or Land-l-kas -_Austria_ - -Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. - - -H - -Habas _see_ Caille. - -Hable Creme Chantilly -_Oesmo, Sweden_ - -Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old -Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and -sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big -city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the -finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Hand _see_ Chapter 3. - -Hard -_Puerto Rico_ - -Dry; tangy. - -Harzkaese, Harz -_Harz Mountains, Germany_ - -Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying -from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little -boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like -Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. - -Harze -_Belgium_ - -Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery -at Harze. - -Hasandach -_Turkey_ - -Bland; sweet. - -Hauskaese. -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. Disk-shaped. - -Haute Marne -_France_ - -Soft; square. - -Hay, or Fromage au Foin -_Seine, France_ - -A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write -home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. - -Hazebrook - -There are two kinds: - - I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and - pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. - -II. Franche-Comte, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and - marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. - -Head - -Four cheeses are called Head: - -The French Death's Head. -Swiss Monk's Head. -Dutch Cat's Head. -Moor's Head. - -There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only -a cheese by discourtesy. - -Health _see_ Holstein. - -Herbesthal -_Germany_ - -Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. - -Herkimer -_U.S.A._ - -Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. - -Herrgardsost, Farm House or Manor House -_West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ - -Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. -Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden -and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. - -Herrgardstyp _see_ Hushallsost. - -Herve -_Belgium_ - -Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, -parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in -three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. - -Hickory Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. - -Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. - -Hohenheim -_Germany_ - -Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) - -Hoi Poi -_China_ - -Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. - -Hoja _see_ Queso de. - -Hollander -_North Germany_ - -Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. - -Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. - -Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner -_Germany_ - -Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. - -Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkaese -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a -little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into -half-pound molds and cooled. - -Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkaese -_Germany_ - -Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. - -Hop, Hopfen -_Germany_ - -Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal -beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. - -Hopi -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the -Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. - -Horner's -_England_ - -An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce -originated. - -Horse Cheese - -Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of -the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. - -Hum -_Holland_ - -Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you -say "Ho-hum." - -Hushallsost, Household Cheese -_Sweden_ - -Popular in three types: -Herrgardstyp--Farmhouse -Vaestgoetatyp--Westgotland -Sveciatyp--Swedish - -Hvid Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of -Scandinavia. - - -I - -Icelandic - -In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is -like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like -the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. - -Ihlefield -_Mecklenburg, Germany_ - -A hand cheese. - -Ilha, Queijo de -_Azores_ - -Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, -measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, -_Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as -_Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their -cheeses. - -Imperial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. - -Imperial Club -_Canada_ - -Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien -Imperial. - -Incanestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" -from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the -three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. - -Irish Cheeses - -Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named -after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, -Three Counties, etc. - -Isigny -_France_ - -Full name Fromage a la Creme d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The -American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt -to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be -closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) - -In France there is also Creme d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as -famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as -any cream can. - -Island of Orleans -_Canada_ - -This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by -early emigres, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orleans Island -in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, -Le Fromage Raffine de l'Ile d'Orleans, and lives up to the name -"refined." - - -J - -Jack _see_ Monterey. - -Jochberg -_Tyrol, Germany_ - -Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain -cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs -in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. - -Jonchee -_Santonge, France_ - -A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, -uniquely, black coffee. - -Josephine -_Silesia, Germany_ - -Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical -packages. - -Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. - -Julost -_Sweden_. - -Semihard; tangy. - -Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel -_France_ - -Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. - - -K - -Kaas, Oude -_Belgium_ - -Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. - -Kackavalj -_Yugoslavia_ - -Same as Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kaiser-kaese -_Germany_ - -This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still -made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, -yellow container of tang. - -Kajmar, or Serbian Butter -_Serbia and Turkey_ - -Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between -that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. - -Kamembert -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Camembert. - -Karaghi La-La -_Turkey_ - -Nutty and tangy. - -Kareish -_Egypt_ - -A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. - -Karut -_India_ - -Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. - -Karvi -_Norway_ - -Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. - -Kash -_Rumania_ - -Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. - -Kashcavallo, Caskcaval -_Greece_ - -A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kasher, or Caher, Penner -_Turkey_ - -Hard; white; sharp. - -Kash Kwan -_Bulgaria and the Balkans_ - -An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, -grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is -sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big -American cities. - -Kaskaval -_Rumania_ - -Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in -Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As -popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. - -Kasseri -_Greece_ - -Hard; ewe's milk, usually. - -Katschkawalj -_Serbia_ - -Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. - -Katzenkopf, Cat's Head -_Holland_ - -Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Kaukauna Club -_U.S.A._ - -Widely advertised processed cheese food. - -Kauna -_Lithuania_ - -A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. - -Kefalotir, Kefalotyi -_Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ - -Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or -ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or -Kefalo. - -Keg-ripened -_see_ Brand. - -King Christian IX -_Denmark_ -Sharp with caraway. Popular with -everybody. - -Kingdom Farm -_U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ -The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and -Muenster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky -enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not -available elsewhere. - -Kirgischerkaese _see_ Krutt. - -Kjarsgaard -_Denmark_ - -Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. - -Klatschkaese, Gossip Cheese -_Germany_ - -A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to -promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the -_Konditories_. - -Kloster, Kloster Kaese -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this -was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting -tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named -from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. - -Kochenkaese -_Luxembourg_ - -Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended -for diets. - -Koch Kaese -_Germany_ - -This translates "cooked cheese." - -Kochtounkaese -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. - -Kolos-monostor -_Rumania_ - -Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of -those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and -professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. - -Kolosvarer -_Rumania_ - -A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are -so many of the world's fine cheeses. - -Komijnekaas, Komynekass -_North Holland_ - -Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. - -Konigskaese -_Germany_ - -A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. - -Kopanisti -_Greece_ - -Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. - -Koppen, Cup, or Bauden -_Germany_ - -Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape -and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. -Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. - -Korestin -_Russia_ - -Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. - -Kosher - -This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to -Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish -authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) - -Krauterkaese -_Brazil_ - -Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the -Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss -Krauterkaese even though it is processed. - -Kreuterkaese, Herb Cheese -_Switzerland_ - -Hard, grating cheese flavored with -herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkaese. - -Krutt, or Kirgischerkaese -_Asian Steppes_ - -A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, -from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and -pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. - -Kuehbacher -_Bavaria_ - -Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, -where it is made. - -Kuminost -_Norway_ - -Semihard; caraway-seeded. - -Kumminost -_Sweden_ - -This is Bondost with caraway added. - -Kummin Ost -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin -where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. - -Kuemmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas -_Holland_ - -Caraway-seeded and named. - -Kuemmelkaese -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese has made a name for -itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to -imported kuemmel liqueur. - - -L - -Labneh -_Syria_ - -Sour-milk. - -La Foncee, or Fromage de Pau -_France_ - -Cream cheese. - -Lager Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is -more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. - -Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole -_Aveyron, France_ - -An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman -occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full -season from November to May. - -Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray -_Poitou_ - -Goat cheese made from May to November. - -Lancashire, or Lancaster -_North England_ - -White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. -It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in -the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. -It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of -different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. -Deep orange in color. - -Land-l-kas, or Guessing -_Austria_ - -Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. - -Langlois Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly -compete with Roquefort. - -Langres -_Haute-Marne, France_ - -Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, -high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, -said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. -Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two -pounds. Consumed mostly at home. - -Lapland -_Lapland_ - -Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and -flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. - -Laredo -_Mexico_ - -Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. - -Larron -_France_ - -A kind of Maroilles. - -Latticini -_Italy_ - -Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. - -Laumes, les -_Burgundy, France_ - -Made from November to July. - -Lauterbach -_Germany_ - -Breakfast cheese - -Leaf _see_ Tschil. - -Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy -_Germany_ - -A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great -_milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point -in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick -and stirred with a Danish stirrer." - -Lebanie -_Syria_ - -Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. - -Lecco, Formaggini di -_Italy_ - -Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese -family as big as the human family of most Italians. - -Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. - -LeGueyin -_Lorraine, France_ - -Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper -make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. - -Leicester -_England_ - -Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty -pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With -Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. - -An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made -for each other." - -Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. - -Leonessa - -A kind of Pecorino. - -Leroy -_U.S.A._ - -Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. - -Lerroux -_France_ - -Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or -winter months. - -Lescin -_Caucasus_ - -Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into -a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken -up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But -after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing -two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and -wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. - -The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine -in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as -in many wild and mountainous parts. - -Les Petits Bressans -_Bresse, France_ - -Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump -pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in -fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. - -Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. - -Le Vacherin - -Name given to two entirely different varieties: - I. Vacherin a la Main -II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) - -Levroux -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to December. - -Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese -_Holland_ - -Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of -Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made -on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory -product. - -Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. - -Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Lincoln -_England_ - -Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where -there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big -break for most natural cheeses. - -Lindenhof -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. - -Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu -_Hungary_ - -A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from -which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name -for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk -and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most -sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour -milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." -(_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Lipto -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both -Liptauer and Brinza. - -Little Nippy -_U.S.A._ - -Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to -"slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no -matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. - -Livarot -_Calvados, France_ - -Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, -fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the -same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months -when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six -by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of -caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By -June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early -in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the -cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and -help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, -piquant Livarot. - -Livlander -_Russia_ - -A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese -itself is red, not the rind. - -Locatelli -_Italy_ - -A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. - -Lodigiano, or Lombardo -_Lodi, Italy_ - -Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; -surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan -but not as fine in quality. - -Longhorn -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long -horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn -breed of cow that furnished the makings. - -Lorraine -_Lorraine, Germany_ - -Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio -nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce -portions that bring a very high price. - -Lumburger -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because -it has no odor. - -Lunch -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -The same as Breakfast and Fruehstueck. A Limburger type of eye-opener. - -Lueneberg -_West Austria_ - -Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as -Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a -character of its own. - -Luxembourg -_U.S.A._ - -Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. - - -M - -Maconnais -_France_ - -Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. - -Macqueline -_Oise, France_ - -Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper -price. - -Madridejos -_Spain_ - -Named for Madrid where it is made. - -Magdeburger-kuhkaese -_Germany_ - -"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. - -Magerkaese _see_ Holstein Skim Milk - -Maggenga, Sorte -_Italy_ - -A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. - -Maguis -_Belgium_ - -Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. - -Maigre -_France_ - -A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras -and spring Migras. - -Maile -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine -bath where it stays sometimes a year. - -Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. - -Mainauer -_German_ - -Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three -pounds. - -Mainzer Hand -_German_ - -Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for -quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in -kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in -making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. - -Majocchino -_Sicily, Italy_ - -An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, -sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of -Incanestrato. - -Malakoff -_France_ - -A form of Neufchatel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or -ripe. - -Manicamp -_French Flanders_ - -In season from October to July. - -Mano, Queso de -_Venezuela_ - -A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. -(_See_ Venezuelan.) - -Manor House _see_ Herrgardsost. - -Manteca, Butter -_Italy_ - -Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering -of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual -for any Italian cheese. - -Manur, or Manuri -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers -can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added -with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and -allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and -dried." - -Maquee -_Belgium_ - -Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. - -Marches -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk; hard. - -Margarine -_England_ - -An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. - -Margherita -_Italy_ - -Soft; cream; small. - -Marienhofer -_Austria_ - -Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; -weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. - -Maerkisch, or Maerkisch Hand -_Germany_ - -Soft; smelly; hand type. - -Maroilles, Marolles, Marole -_Flanders, France_ - -Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Eveque and Limburger. -Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five -inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. - -Martha Washington Aged Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in -Chapter 4.) - -Mascarpone, or Macherone -_Italy_ - -Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in -muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. - -McIntosh -_Alaska_ - -An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and -described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at -times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar -Box_ by Dean Collins. - -McLaren's -_U.S.A._ - -Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in -Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. - -Meadowbloom -_U.S.A._ - -Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. - -Mecklenburg Skim -_Germany_ - -No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. - -Meilbou -_France_ - -Made in the Champagne district. - -Mein Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. - -Melfa -_U.S.A._ - -Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half -moons. - -Melun -_France_ -Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de -Melun. - -Mentelto -_Italy_ -Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains - -Merignac -_France_ -Goat. - -Merovingian -_Northeast France_ -Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the -Merovingian kings. - -Mersem -_France_ -Lightly cooked. - -Mesitra -_Crimea_ -Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. - -Mesost -_Sweden_ -Whey; sweetish. - -Metton -_Franche-Comte, France_ -Season October to June. - -Meuse -_France_ -Soft; piquant; aromatic. - -Midget Salami Provolone -_U.S.A._ -This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, -too. - -Mignot -_Calvados, France_ -_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season -only in summer, April to September. - -_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only -seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Eveque and -popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados -cider, fresh, hard or distilled. - -Migras - -Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin -summer Maigre. - -Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches -thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. - -Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. - -Millefiori -_Milan, Italy_ - -A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no -cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. - -Milltown Bar -_U.S.A._ - -Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. - -Milk cheeses - -Milks that make cheese around the world: - -Ass -Buffalo -Camel -Chamois -Elephant -Goat -Human (_see_ Mother's milk) -Llama -Mare -Reindeer -Sea cow (Amazonian legend) -Sheep -Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) -Yak -Zebra -Zebu - -U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange -animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. - -Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese -and Hand Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and -successfully imitated. - -Minas -_Brazil_ - -Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. -Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands -are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss -professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the -State Capital, Bello Horizonte. - -Minnesota Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, -Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals -to be proud of. - -Mintzitra -_in Macedonia; and_ -Mitzithra -_in Greece_ - -Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep -cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. - -Modena, Monte -_U.S.A._ - -Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. - -Mohawk Limburger -Spread -_U.S.A._ - -A brand that comes in one-pound jars. - -Moliterno -_Italy_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ - -Monceau -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard, similar to Maroilles. - -Moncenisio -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. - -Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkaese, Mondseer Schlosskaese -_Austria_ - -This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the -Muenster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch -of the Limburgers. - -The Schachtelkaese is named from the wooden boxes in which it is -shipped, while the Schlosskaese shows its class by being called Castle -Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of -whole milk. - -Money made of cheese -_China_ - -In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is -a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, -writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, -1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some -thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the -field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as -'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other -commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading -medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was -sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for -other articles of service." - -Monk's Head _see_ Tete de Moine. - -Monostorer -_Transylvania, Rumania_ - -Ewe's milk. - -Monsieur -_France_ - -Soft; salted; rich in flavor. - -Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - -Montana -_Catalonia_ - -A mountain cheese. - -Montasio -_Austria and Italy_ - -Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is -often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both -fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and -sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve -months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely -imitated in America. - -Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de -_Brittany, France_ - -A celebrated cheese of Brittany. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the -_Achittea_ family. - -Mont Blanc -_France_ - -An Alpine cheese. - -Mont Cenis -_Southeastern France_ -Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is -semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and -Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and -sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy -bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing -twenty-five pounds. - -Mont-des-Cats -_French Flanders_ - -Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. - -Montdidier -_France_ - -A fresh cream. - -Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone -Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to -Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Eveque but more delicate than -either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best -is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. -Didier. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. - -Monterey -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in -California and along the Mexican border. - -Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. - -Monthery -_Seine-et-Oise, France_ - -Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, -weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color -in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. - -Montpellier -_France_ - -Sheep. - -Moravian -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Semihard and sharp. - -Morbier -_Bresse, France_ - -In season from November to July. - -Mostoffait -_France_ - -A little-known product of Champagne. - -Mother's milk - -In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des -Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts -the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was -so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." -All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it -was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, -"Then all of us are cannibals." - -Mountain -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; yellow; sharp. - -Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. - -Mount Hope -_U.S.A._ - -Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. - -Mouse or Mouse Trap -_U.S.A._ - -Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade -store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, -however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. - -Mozzarella -_Italy_ - -Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white -cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a -half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at -Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like -Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is -imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. - -Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of -about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. - -Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true -Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. - -Mozzarinelli -_Italy_ - -A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. - -Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. - -Muenster -_Germany_ - -German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to -Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; -whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to -strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. -Best in winter season, from November to April. - -Muenster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and -French. Gerome is a standard French type of it, with a little longer -season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise -seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is -served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. - -In Alsace, Muenster is made plain and also under the name of Muenster au -Cumin because of the caraway. - -American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They -are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. - -Mustard -_U.S.A._ - -A processed domestic, Gruyere type. - -Myjithra - -Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. - -Mysost, Mytost -_Scandinavia_ - -Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey -cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, -instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. -Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are -cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. - - -N - -Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland -_Austria_ - -Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, -in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. - -Nantais, or Fromage du Cure, Cheese of the Curate -_Brittany, France_ - -A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. - -Nessel -_England_ - -Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. - -Neufchatel, or Petit Suisse -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Imperial, Bondon, and Chapter -9. - -New Forest -_England_ - -Cream cheese from the New Forest district. - -Nieheimer -_Westphalia, Germany_ - -Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. -Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both -beer and hops in one cheese is unique. - -Niolo -_Corsica_ - -In season from October to May. - -Noekkelost or Noegelost -_Norway_ - -Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a -Gouda. - -Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" -_U.S.A._ - -Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, -perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. - -Nordost -_Sweden_ - -Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. - -North Wilts -_Wiltshire, England_ - -Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small -size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. - -Nostrale -_Northwest Italy_ - -An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: - I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring - when the cows are in the valley. -II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk - from lush mountain-grazing. - -Notruschki (cheese bread) -_Russia_ - -Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. - -Nova Scotia Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia -manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to -give the luxurious flavor. - -Nuworld -_U.S.A._ - -This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a -brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, -heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and -flavor. - -A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new -species or not. - - -O - -Oaxaca -_see_ Asadero. - -Oka, or La Trappe -_Canada_ - -Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada -after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ -Trappe. - -Old English Club -_U.S.A._ - -Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. - -Old Heidelberg -_U.S.A._ - -Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. - -Oleron Isle, Fromage d'Ile -_France_ - -A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oleron. - -Olive Cream -_U.S.A._ - -Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos -for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American -taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma -olives and Feta sheep cheese. - -Olivet -_Orleans, France_ - -Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: - I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. - II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. -III. Olivet-Cendre, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. - -Olmuetzer Quargel, also Olmuetzer Bierkaese -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 -of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen -into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A -dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop -into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. - -Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour -_Bearn, France_ - -In season from October to May. - -Onion with garlic links -_U.S.A_ - -Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. - -Oporto -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. - -Orkney -_Scotland_ - -A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat -bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch -country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell -have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. - -Orleans -_France_ - -Named after the Orleans district Soft; creamy; tangy. - -Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach -_Caucasus_ - -Comes in two forms: - I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. -II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of - sheep milk is the better. - -Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this -type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. - -Oswego -_U.S.A._ - -New York State Cheddar of distinction. - -Oude Kaas -_Belgium_ - -Popular in France as Boule de Lille. - -Oust, Fromage de -_Roussillon, France_ - -Of the Camembert family. - -Ovar -_Hungarian_ - -Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild -but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. - -Oveji Sir -_Yugoslavian Alpine_ - -Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. -Weight six to ten pounds. - -Oxfordshire -_England_ - -An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan -Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: - "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, - pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' - - "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' - - "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the - coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your - lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" - - -P - -Pabstett -_U.S.A_ - -The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although -beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has -long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste -to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular -beer. - -Packet cheese -_England_ - -This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package -or packet it comes in. - -Paglia -_Switzerland_ - -Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A -Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because -in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a -foreign type. - -Pago -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in -weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. - -Paladru -_Savoy, France_ - -In season from November to May. - -Palpuszta -_Hungary_ - -Fairly strong Limburger type. - -Pannarone -_Italy_ - -Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. - -Parenica -_Hungary_ - -Sheep. Caciocavallo type. - -Parmesan, Parmigiano -_Italy_ - -The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the -world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with -the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta -al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in -a mortar with a pestle. - -Passauer Rahmkaese, Creme de Passau -_German_ - -Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Creme de Passau. - -Pasta Cotta -_Italy_ - -The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. - -Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which -Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) - -Pasteurized Process Cheese Food -_U.S.A._ - -This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had -Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world -of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. - -Pastorella -_Italy_ - -Soft, rich table cheese. - -Patagras -_Cuba_ - -Similar to Gouda. - -Pecorino -_Italy_ - -Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. - -Pelardon de Rioms -_Languedoc, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to November. - -Peneteleu -_Rumania_ - -One of the international Caciocavallo family. - -Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album - -Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd -destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that -impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second -spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. - -Pennich -_Turkey_ - -Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. - -Pennsylvania Hand Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever -since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or -cooked. - -Penroque -_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ - -Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ -and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal -condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of -Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of -mother cow than mother nature. - -Pepato -_Italy_ - -Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine -for fire-eaters. - -An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. - -Persille de Savoie -_Savoie, France_ - -In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner -similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. - -Petafina, La -_Dauphine, France_ - -Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, -plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. - -Petit Carre -_France_ - -Fresh, unripened Ancien Imperial. - -Petit Gruyere -_Denmark_ - -Imitation Gruyere, pasteurized, processed and made almost -unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also -packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen -cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of -several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at -home. - -Petit Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -A pet name for Coulommiers. - -Petit Suisse -_France_ - -Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchatel and similar to -Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: - Gros--a largest cylinder - Demi--a small one - -Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised -its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, -Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is -ideal with honey. - -Petit Vacher -_France_ - -"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. - -Petits Bourgognes -_Lower Burgundy, France_ - -Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning -with B are Banons and Bressans. - -Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les -_France_ - -Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. - -Petits Fromages de Chevre -_France_ - -Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of -Provence. - -Petits Pots de Caille de Poitiers -_Poitou, France_ - -Clotted milk in small pots. - -Pfister -_Cham, Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh -skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to -manufacture it, in Chain. - -Philadelphia Cream -_U.S.A._ - -An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. -Made in New York State in spite of its name. - -Picnic -_U.S.A._ - -Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long -been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. - -Picodon de Dieule Fit -_Dauphine, France_ - -In season from May to December. - -Pie, Fromage a la -_France_ - -Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese -type. - -Pie Cheese -_U.S.A_ - -An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in -wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And -by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to -find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being -wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind -on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make -processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying -word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged -nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" -out of a processed "Cheddar." - -Pimiento -_U.S.A._ - -Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland -national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchatel, cream, club or -cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old -Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that -equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. - -Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. - -Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. - -Piora -_Tessin, Switzerland_ - -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. - -Pippen -_U.S.A._ - -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll - -Pithiviers au Foin -_France_ - -Orleans variety ripened on hay from October to May. - -Poitiers -_France_ - -Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. - -Pommel -_France_ - -All year. Double cream; unsalted. - -Ponta Delgada -_Azores_ - -Semifirm; delicate; piquant - -Pontgibaud -_France_ - -Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. - -Pont l'Eveque - -Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like -Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The -Inquisitive Cow." - -Poona -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in -two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature -before serving. - -Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. - -Port, Blue Links -_U.S.A._ - -"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. - -Pot cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite -for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and -macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the -sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. -Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. - -Potato -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes -added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the -potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die -curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two -of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. -The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a -fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered -with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen -for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is -probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a -period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it -appears to be the same." -From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. - -Potato Pepper -_Italy_ - -Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, -only not so stony hard. - -Pots de Creme St. Gervais -_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ - -The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both -as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. - -Pouligny-St. Pierre -_Touraine, France_ - -A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to -December. - -Poustagnax, le -_France_ - -A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. - -Prato -_Brazil_ - -Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland -Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named -not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from -whence it was borrowed long ago. - -Prattigau -_Switzerland_ - -Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home -valley. - -Prestost or Saaland Flarr -_Sweden_ - -Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, -packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed -daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. - -Primavera, Spring -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like -fragrance. - -Primost -_Norway_ - -Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. - -Primula -_Norway_ - -A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyere, mild table cheese imitate in -Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with -caraway added. - -Processed -_U.S.A._ - -From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by -emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic -mass. - -Promessi -_Italy_ - -Small soft-cream cheese. - -Provatura -_Italy_ - -A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for -a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. - -Providence -_France_ - -Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. - -Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and -Provolino -_Italy_ - -All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and -appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the -U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. - -Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in -the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, -Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to -four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with -huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all -sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that -are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. - -P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit -_Lorraine, France_ - -Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. - -Puant Macere -_Flanders_ - -"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November -to June. - -Pultost or Knaost -_Norway_ - -Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. - -Pusztador -_Hungary_ - -Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. - -Pyrenees, Fromage des -_France_ - -A fine mountain variety. - - -Q - -Quartiolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September -and November. - -Quacheq -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. - -Quargel _see_ Olmuetzer. - -Quartirolo -_Italy_ - -Soft, cow's milk. - -Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal -_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitao, Cardiga, -Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. - -Queso Anejo -_Mexico_ - -White, dry, skim milk. - -Queso de Bola -_Mexico_ - -Whole milk, similar to Edam. - -Queso de Cavallo -_Venezuela_ - -Pear-shaped cheese. - -Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. - -Queso de Cincho -_Venezuela_ - -Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. - -Queso de Crema -_Costa Rica_ - -Similar to soft Brick. - -Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese -_Puerto Rico_ - -Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. - -Queso de Mano -_Venezuela_ - -Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. - -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra -_Puerto Rico_ - -White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, - -Queso de Prensa -_Puerto Rico_ - -The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after -ripening two or three months. - -Queso de Puna -_Puerto Rico_ - -Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. - -Queso de Tapara -_Venezuela_ - -Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and -tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the -time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno -Provecho._ - -Queso Fresco -_El Salvador_ - -Cottage-cheese type. - -Queville _see_ Chapter 3. - -Queyras _see_ Champoleon. - - -R - -Rabacal -_Coimbra, Portugal_ - -Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in -diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. - -Rabbit Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. - -Radener -_Germany_ - -Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by -four inches, weight 32 pounds. - -Radolfzeller Cream -_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ - -Similar to Muenster. - -Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. - -Rahmkaese, Allgaeuer -_German_ - -Cream. - -Rainbow -_Mexico_ - -Mild; mellow. - -Ramadoux -_Belgium_ - -Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Herve - -Rammil or Rammel -_England_ - -Andre Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also -called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically -unobtainable today. - -Rangiport -_France_ - -A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. - -Rarush Durmar -_Turkey_ - -Brittle; mellow; nutty. - -Raecherkaese - -The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very -popular. - -Raviggiolo -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. - -Rayon or Raper -_Switzerland_ - -A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is -hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. - -Reblochon or Roblochon -_Savoy_ - -Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to -two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. - -Recollet de Gerardmer -_Vosges, France_ - -A harvest variety similar to Gerome, made from October to April - -Red -_Russia_ - -_see_ Livlander. - -Red Balls -_Dutch_ - -_see_ Edam. - -Reggiano _see_ Grana. - -Regianito -_Argentine_ - -Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere -imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. - -Reichkaese -_German_ - -Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. - -Reindeer -_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ - -In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk -It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is -curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. - -Relish cream cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. - -Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant -_Belgium_ - -The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it -is. The season is winter, from November to June. - -Requeijao -_Portugal and Brazil_ - -Recooked. - -Resurrection _see_ Welsh. - -Rhubarbe -_France_ - -A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our -pie plant. - -Riceys _see_ Champenois. - -Ricotta Romano -_Italy_ - -Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, -piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, -sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. - -Ricotta -_Italy and U.S.A._ - -Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, -blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and -rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, -some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor -substitute whey cheese. - -Ricotta Salata - -Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and -too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. - -Riesengebirge -_Bohemia_ - -Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's -northern mountains. - -Rinnen -_Germany_ - -This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named -from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. - -Riola -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to -ripen, two to three months. - -Robbiole -Robbiola -Robbiolini -_ Lombardy_ -_ Italian_ - -Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine -quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to -two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at -just under four ounces. - -Roblochon, le - -Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried -sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. - -Rocamadur -_Limousin, France_ - -Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. - -Rocroi -_France_ - -From the Champagne district. - -Rokadur -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Roquefort. - -Roll -_England_ - -Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. - -Rollot or Rigolot -_Picardy and Montdidier, France_ - -Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but -much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only -cheese. - -Roma -_Italy_ - -Soft cream. - -Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings -_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ - -A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is -not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is -scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. - -Romano, Romano Vacchino -_Italy_ - -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. - -Romanello -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating -cheese, cured one year. - -Roquefort -_France_ - -King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_ -Chapter 3. - -Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled -_U.S.A._ - -Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead -of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, -mustard, flour and spice oil. - -Roquefort de Corse -_Corsica, France_ - -This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep -milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. - -Roquefort de Tournemire -_France_ - -Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal -Roquefort name. - -Rougerets, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically -every variety is made with goat milk. - -Rouennais -_France_ - -This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten -from October to May. - -Round Dutch -_Holland_ - -An early name for Edam. - -Rouy, le -_Normandy, France_ - -From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. - -Royal Brabant -_Belgium_ - -Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. - -Royal Sentry -_Denmark_ - -Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't -yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American -one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its -ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe -(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese -whey solids and disodium phosphate. - -Ruffec, Fromage de -_Saintonge, France_ - -Fresh; goat. - -Runesten -_Denmark and U.S.A._ - -Similar to Herrgardsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three -pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. - -Rush Cream Cheese -_England and France_ - -Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but -from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and -sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are -collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, -covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer -and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then -increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily -until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the -fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape -baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup -new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one -teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty -drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place -until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the -straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The -mats or baskets should not be used a second time. - - -S - -Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost -_Sweden_ - -Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with -whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with -whiskey. - -Saanen -_Switzerland_ - -Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest -cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as -Hartkaese, Reibkaese and Walliskaese, it came to fame in the sixteenth -century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. -It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and -then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds -and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for -ripening is six years, but some take nine. - -Sage, or Green cheese -_England_ - -This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the -U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the -method described in Chapter 4. - -Saint-Affrique -_Guyenne, France_ - -This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives -up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local -renown. - -We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the -host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped -abroad. - -Saint-Agathon -_Brittany, France_ - -Season, October to July. - -Saint-Amand-Montrond -_Berry, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Benoit -_Loiret, France_ - -Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt -rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to -fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about -six inches in diameter. - -Saint-Claude -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half -pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is -then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. - -Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Florentin -_Burgundy, France_ - -A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. - -Saint-Flour -_Auvergne, France_ - -Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. - -Saint-Gelay -_Poitou, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais -_see_ Pots de Creme. - -Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. - -Saint-Honore -_Nivernais, France_ - -A small goat cheese. - -Saint-Hubert -_France_ - -Similar to Brie. - -Saint-Ivel -_England_ - -Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. -Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with -_Bacillus Bulgaricus._ - -Saint-Laurent -_Roussillon, France_ - -Mountain sheep cheese. - -Saint-Lizier -_Bearn, France_ - -A white, curd cheese. - -Saint-Loup, Fromage de -_Poitou and Vendee, France_ - -Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September - -Saint-Marcellin -_Dauphine, France_ - -One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, -weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. -Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially -a goat cheese. - -Saint-Moritz -_Switzerland_ - -Soft and tangy. - -Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre -_Auvergne, France_ - -Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. - -Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. - -Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. - -Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. - -Saint-Remy, Fromage de -_Haute-Saone, France_ - -Soft Pont l'Eveque type. - -Saint-Stefano -_German_ - -Bel Paese type. - -Saint-Winx -_Flanders, France_ - -The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian -border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. - -Sainte-Anne d'Auray -_Brittany, France_ - -A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. - -Sainte-Marie -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. - -Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine -_France_ - -Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valencay. - -Salamana -_Southern Europe_ - -Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. -It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix -with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. - -Salame -_France_ - -Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. -Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in -Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has -became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout -America. - -Salers, Bleu de -_France_ - -One of the very good French Blues. - -Saligny -_Champagne, France_ - -White cheese made from sheep's milk. - -Saloio -_Lisbon, Portugal_ - -An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 -to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near -the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. - -Salonite -_Italy_ - -Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. - -Saltee -_Ireland_ - -Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as -Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its -name implies. - -Salt-free cheese, for diets - -U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkaese. - -Samsoe -_Denmark_ - -Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet -cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. - -Sandwich Nut - -An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchatel. - -Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. - -Sardegna -_Sardinia_ - -A Romano type made in Sardinia. - -Sardinian -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. - -Sardo -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. -There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. - -Sarraz or Sarrazin -_Vaud, Switzerland_ - -Roquefort type. - -Sassenage -_Dauphiny, France_ - -Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of -Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the -three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented -variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. - -Satz -_Germany_ - -Hard cheese made in Saxony. - -Savoy, Savoie -_France_ - -Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. - -Sbrinz -_Argentine_ - -Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. - -Scanno -_Abruzzi, Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened -rind, deep yellow interior. - -Scarmorze or Scamorze -_Italy_ - -Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being -made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang -from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine -when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. -Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in -Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. - -Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Schafkaese (Sheep Cheese) -_Germany_ - -Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. - -Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ - -Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six -pounds. - -Schlickermilch - -This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, -sour milk "waddle" cheese. - -Schlesische Sauermilchkaese -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered -shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in -summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three -to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. - -Schlesischer Weichquarg -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100 deg. for a short -time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded -and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply -flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand -cheese odor develops. - -Schloss, Schlosskaese, or Bismarck -_German_ - -This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of -his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic -Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. - -Schmierkaese - -German cottage cheese that becomes -smearcase in America. - -Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. - -Schoenland -_German_ - -Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." - -Schuetzenkaese -_Austria_ - -Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces -and wrapped in tin foil. - -Shottengsied -_Alpine_ - -A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. - -Schwarzenberger -_Hungary and Bohemia_ - -One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to -ripen. - -Schweizerkaese -_Switzerland_ - -German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) - -Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese -_Denmark_ - -A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing -wonderful. - -Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. - -Selles-sur Cher -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. - -Senecterre -_Puy-de-Dome, France_ - -Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. - -Septmoncel -_France_ - -Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and -sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to -Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk -triplets with Gex and Sassenage. - -Serbian -_Serbia_ - -Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk -over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an -hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth -and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it -is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally -with fresh milk for six. - -Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is -semisoft. - -Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. - -Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) -_Portugal_ - -The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other -milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated -by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is -ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds -averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside -is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. - -Sharp-flavored cheese - -U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, -Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de -Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. - -Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. - -Silesian -_Poland and Germany_ - -White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) - -Sir cheeses - -In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. -Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or -holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and -Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. - -Sir Iz Mjesine -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open -fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the -curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. -Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is -dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, -packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. - -Sir Mastny -_Montenegro_ - -Fresh sheep milk. - -Sir Posny -_Montenegro_ - -Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to -the names of Tord and Mrsav. - -Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. - -Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. - -Siraz -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. - -Skyr -_Iceland_ - -The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire -cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well -liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the -subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not -advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before -riding, as it gives you diarrhea." - -Slipcote, or Colwick -_England_ - -Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in -forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is -placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it -is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily -slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it -was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as -today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. - -Smaeltost -_Sweden_ - -Soft and melting. - -Smearcase - -Old English corruption of German Schmierkaese, long used in America for -cottage cheese. - -Smoked Block -_Austria_ - -A well-smoked cheese in block form. - -Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. - -Smoked Szekely -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. - -Smokelet -_Norway_. - -A small smoked cheese. - -Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. - -Sorbais -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full -flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, -but smaller. - -Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga - -Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. - -Soumaintrain, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Soybean -_China_ - -Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with -a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our -occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese -and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. - -Spalen or Stringer -_Switzerland_ - -A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of -Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the -vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. - -Sperrkaese _see_ Dry. - -Spiced -_International_ - -Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, -to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and -thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes -the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in -English and several other languages, among them Kuemmel, Nokkelost and -Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; -whole black pepper Pepato, etc. - -Spiced and Spiced Spreads -_U.S.A._ - -Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less -than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. - -Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. -_France_ - -Spitz Spitzkase -_Germany_ - -Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, -Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. - -Sposi -_Italy_ - -Soft; small; cream. - -Spra -_Greek_ - -Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in -one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made -principally from sheep milk. - -Staengenkase -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. - -Stein Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after -the old German original. - -Steinbuscher-Kaese -_German_ - -Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, -reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at -home but little known abroad. - -Steppe -_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ - -German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it -tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as -in Germany and Austria for home consumption. - -Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. - -Stirred curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed -younger. - -Stracchino -_Italy_ - -Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and -pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A -fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter -3. Also see Certoso Stracchino. - -Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of -this distinguished family. - -Stravecchio -_Italy_ - -Well-aged, according to the name. -Creamy and mellow. - -Stringer _see_ Spalen. - -Styria -_Austria_ - -Whole milk. Cylindrical form. - -Suffolk -_England_ - -An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" -cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has -stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty -hardness. - - "Hunger will break through stone walls and anything - except a Suffolk cheese." - - "Those that made me were uncivil - For they made me harder than the devil. - Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; - Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me." - -Surati, Panir -_India_ - -Buffalo milk. Uncolored. - -Suraz -_Serbia_ - -Semihard and semisoft. - -Sveciaost -_Sweden_ - -A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match -Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full -cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six -weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, -wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as -most _osts_ are. - -Sweet-curd -_U.S.A._ - -Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd -cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, -however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by -the granular process. - -Swiss -_U.S.A._ - -In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, -Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling -their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever -since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their -standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had -competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical -cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler. - -Szekely -_Transylvania, Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is -the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American -processed links, with wine flavors and everything. - - -T - -Taffel, Table, Taffelost -_Denmark_ - -A Danish brand name for an ordinary -slicing cheese. - -Tafi -_Argentina_ - -Made in the rich province of Tucuman. - -Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de -_Perigord, France_ - -Very small and tasty goat cheese. - -Taleggio -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type. - -Tallance -_France_ - -Goat. - -Tamie -_France_ - -Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is -more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced -not far away. - -Tanzenberger -_Carinthia, Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Tao-foo or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are -ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch -dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is -coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the -same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After -being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and -added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is. - -Teleme -_Rumania_ - -Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of -sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days. - -Terzolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter. - -Tete a Tete, Tete de Maure, Moor's Head -_France_ - -Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam. - -Tete de Moine, Monk's Head -_France_ - -A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer -Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay. - -Tete de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head. - -"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" -_Scotland_ - -Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme -that exposes it: - - The first love token ye gae me - Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. - O wae be to the tempting cheese, - The tempting cheese of Fyvie, - Gat me forsake my ain gude man - And follow a fottman laddie. - -Texel - -Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of -Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands. - -Thenay -_Vendome, France_ - -Resembles Camembert and Vendome. - -Thion -_Switzerland_ - -A fine Emmentaler. - -Three Counties -_Ireland_ - -An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most -of the Irish cheese. - -Thuringia Caraway -_Germany_ - -A hand cheese spiked with caraway. - -Thyme -_Syria_ - -Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other -herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, -Hazebrook II. - -Tibet -_Tibet_ - -The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of -sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to -string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. -They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, -in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.) - -Tignard -_Savoy, France_ - -Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in -Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel. - -Tijuana -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town. - -Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4. - -Tilsit, or Tilsiter Kaese, also called Ragnit -_Germany_ - -This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. -Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open -texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is -stronger and coarser. - -Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to -imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovar, is such a -good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, -and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations. - -The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a -good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial -dallying." - -Tilziski -_Yugoslavia_ - -A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter. - -Tome de Beaumont -_France_ - -Whole cow's milk. - -Tome, la -_Auvergne, France_ - -Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar -that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Roche, Salers, -etc. - -Tome de Chevre -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft goat cheese. - -Tome de Savoie -_France_ - -Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des -Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane. - -Tomelitan Gruyere -_Norway_ - -Imitation of French Gruyere in 2-1/2 ounce packages. - -Topf or Topfkaese -_Germany_ - -A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk -cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it -is flaky. - -Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a -table cheese. - -Toscanello -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -A smaller edition of Toscano. - -Touareg -_Berber, Africa_ - -Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then -dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or -placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and -never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber -tribes. - -Tour Eiffel -_Berry, France_ - -Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque -label and trademark for a brand of Camembert. - -Touloumisio -_Greece_ - -Similar to Feta. - -Tournette -_France_ - -Small goat cheese. - -Tourne de chevre -_Dauphine, France_ - -Goat cheese. - -Trappe, la, or Oka -_Canada_ - -Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian -monastery. - -Trappist _see_ Chapter 3. - -Trappist -_Yugoslavia_ - -Trappist Port-Salut imitation. - -Trauben (Grape) -_Switzerland_ - -Swiss or Gruyere aged in Swiss Neuchatel wine and so named for the -grape. - -Travnik, Travnicki -_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_ - -Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally -skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and -adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and -Vlasic. - -When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It -ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and -is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type -when aged is characteristically oily and sharp. - -Traz os Montes -_Portugal_ - -Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically -named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit -muttony, but none of it at all tallowy. - -Trecce -_Italy_ - -Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh. - -Triple Aurore -_France_ - -Normandy cheese in season all the year around. - -Troo -_France_ - -Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January. - -Trouville -_France_ - -Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Eveque type of superior quality. - -Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy. - -Truckles -_England_ - -No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue -Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. -On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a -handout: - - Pray, dame, something, - An apple or a dumpling, - Or a piece of Truckle cheese - Of your own making. - -No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar -put up in loaves. - -Tschil -_Armenia_ - -Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or -cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is -drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil. - -Tuile de Flandre -_France_ - -A type of Marolles. - -Tullum Penney -_Turkey_ - -Salty from being soaked in brine. - -Tuna, Prickly Pear -_Mexico_ - -Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and -straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike -consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when -hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or -flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or -confection in Mexico for centuries. - -Tuscano -_Italy_ - -Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan. - -Twdr Sir -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. -Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to -Brick or Limburger. - -Twin Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, -Wisconsin. - -Tworog -_Russia_ - -Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese -bread called Notruschki. - -Tybo -_Denmark_ - -Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk. - -Tyrol Sour -_German_ - -A typical Tyrolean hand cheese. - -Tzgone -_Dalmatia_ - -The opposite number of Tzigen, just below. - -Tzigenkaese -_Austria_ - -Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; -originated in Dalmatia. - - -U - -Urda -_Rumania_ - -Creamy; sweet; mild. - -Uri -_Switzerland_ - -Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight -to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds. - -Urseren -_Switzerland_ - -Mild flavored. Cooked curd. - -Urt, Fromage d' - -Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country. - - -V - -Vacherin -_France and Switzerland_ - -I. Vacherin a la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft -interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches -in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is -almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the -hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny -than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on -bread. The local name is Tome de Montague. - -II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called -Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our -conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e." - -Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for -the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss -classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin. - -Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du -_Andorra, France_ - -Sheep milk. - -Valdeblore, le -_Nice, France_ - -Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese. - -Valencay, or Fromage de Valencay -_Touraine, France_ - -Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to -December. This was a favorite with Francis I. - -Valio -_Finland_ - -One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss -cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, -Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real -cheese is. - -Valsic -_Albania_ - -Crumbly and sharp. - -Varalpenland -_Germany_ - -Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and -smell. - -Varennes, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Vaesterbottenost -_West Bothnia_ - -Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, -almost bitter taste. - -Vaestgoetaost -_West Gothland, Sweden_ - -Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty -to thirty pounds. - -Vendome, Fromage de -_France_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendree in being ripened under -ashes. There is also a soft Vendome sold mostly in Paris. - -Veneto, Venezza -_Italy_ - -Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp. - -Vic-en-Bigorre -_France_ - -Winter cheese of Bearn in season October to May. - -Victoria -_England_ - -The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford. - -Ville Saint-Jacques -_France_ - -Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May. - -Villiers -_France_ - -Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne. - -Viry-vory, or Vary -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Viterbo -_Italy_ - -Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. -Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino -family. - -Vize -_Greece_ - -Ewe's milk; suitable for grating. - -Void -_Meuse, France_ - -Soft associate of Pont l'Eveque and Limburger. - -Volvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% -fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.) - -Vorarlberg Sour-milk -_Greasy_ - -Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong -flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk. - -Vory, le -_France_ - -Fresh cream variety like Neufchatel and Petit Suisse. - - -W - -Warshawski Syr -_Poland_ - -Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland. - -Warwickshire -_England_ - -Derbyshire type. - -Washed-curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any -abnormal flavors. - -Wedesslborg -_Denmark_ - -A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully -ripened. - -Weisschmiere -_Bavaria, Germany_ - -Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four -months. - -Weisslacker, White Lacquer -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgaeuer-type put up in cylinders and -rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of -Germany's finest soft cheeses. - -Welsh cheeses - -The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh -"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at -one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream -cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same -delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John -Keats. - -"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer -available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because -it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen -into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such -wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by -Rhys Davies.) - -Wensleydale -_England_ - - I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to -Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the -Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June -to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, -but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put -on. - -II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through -the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made -(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and -winter. - -Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskaese -_West Prussia_ - -Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda. - -West Friesian -_Netherlands_ - -Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of -it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet: - - Good bread, good butter and good cheese - Is good English and good Friese. - -Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is -mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the -richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of -about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put -down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the -seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, -like Limburger, before pressing. - -This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so -soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and -Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was -perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago. - -The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the -name Briol. - -Whale Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which -the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the -possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as -petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after -milking the whales. - -White, Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten -fresh, with or without salt. - -White Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. -Green Bay brand is a fine example of it. - -White Gorgonzola - -This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known -outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.) - -White Stilton -_England_ - -This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic -veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag. - -Whitethorn -_Ireland_ - -Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except -that it is colored. - -Wilstermarsch-Kaese Holsteiner Marsch -_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_ - -Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at -Itzehoe. - -Wiltshire or Wilts -_England_ - -A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North -Wilts.) - -Wisconsin Factory Cheeses -_U.S.A._ - -Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the -age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American -Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but -most of it is sold green when far too young. - -Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss. - -Withania -_India_ - -Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet -from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This -names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, -it becomes acrid with age. - - -Y - -Yoghurt, or Yogurt -_U.S.A._ - -Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the -milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel. - -York, York Curd and Cambridge York -_England_ - -A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are -becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too -rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which -it is cured, for local consumption. - -Yorkshire-Stilton -_Cotherstone, England_ - -This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine -internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general -favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung. - -York State -_U.S.A._ - -Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars. - -Young America -_U.S.A._ - -A mild, young, yellow Cheddar. - -Yo-yo -_U.S.A._ - -Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on -strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped -like a yo-yo. - - -Z - -Ziegel -_Austria_ - -Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months. - -Ziegenkaese -_Germany_ - -A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. -Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkaese. - -Ziger - - I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food -made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, -Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are -flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey -bread. - -II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of -whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes. - -Zips _see_ Brinza. - -Zomma -_Turkey_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. - -Zwirn _see_ Tschil. - - - - -[Illustration] - -Index of Recipes - -American Cheese Salad, 128 -Angelic Camembert, 120 -Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 -Apple Pie a la Cheese, 119 -Apple Pie Adorned, 119 -Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 -Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 -au Gratin - Eggs, 125 - Potatoes, 125 - Tomatoes, 125 - -Blintzes, 111 -Brie or Camembert Salad, 128 - -Camembert, Angelic, 120 -Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 -Cheddar Omelet, 135 -Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 -Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 -Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 -Cheese Charlotte, 133 -Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 -Cheese Custard, 118 -Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 -Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 -Cheese Waffles, 112 -Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 -Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 -Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 -Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 -Cold Dunking, 133 -Custard, Cheese, 118 - -Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 -Diablotins, 135 -Dumpling, Napkin, 112 -Dunking, Cold, 133 - -Eggs au Gratin, 125 - -Flan au Fromage, 119 -Fondue - a l'Italienne, 84 - All-American, 85 - au Fromage, 90 - Baked Tomato, 89 - Brick, 92 - Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 - Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 - Cheese, 92 - Cheese, and Corn, 92 - Cheese and Rice, 91 - Chives, 88 - Comtois, 88 - Corn and Cheese, 92 - Neufchatel Style, 82 - 100% American, 90 - Parmesan, 86 - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 - Rice, and Cheese, 91 - Sapsago Swiss, 86 - Tomato, 89 - Tomato Baked, 89 - Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 -Fritters, Italian, 109 -Fritto Misto, Italian, 137 - -Garlic on Cheese, 110 -Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 -Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - -Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 -Italian Fritters, 109 -Italian Fritto Misto, 137 -Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108 - -Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108 - -Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 -Miniature Pizzas, 107 - -Napkin Dumpling, 112 -Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108 - -Omelet - Cheddar, 135 - Meal-in-One, 135 - Parmesan, 135 - Tomato, 136 - with Cheese Sauce, 136 -Onion Soup, 126 -Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 -Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118 - -Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 -Parmesan Omelet, 135 -Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 -Pfeffernuesse and Caraway, 134 -Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 -Piroghs, Polish, 137 -Pizza, 106 - Cheese, 107 - Dough, 106 - Miniature, 107 - Tomato Paste, 107 -Polish Piroghs, 137 -Potatoes au Gratin, 125 -Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 -Puffs - Breakfast, 100 - Cheese, New England, 100 - Cream Cheese, 100 - Danish Fondue, 100 - Fried, 99 - New England Cheese, 100 - Parmesan, 99 - Roquefort, 99 - Three-in-One, 98 - -Rabbit - After-Dinner, 55 - All-American Succotash, 77 - American Woodchuck, 63 - Anchovy, 70 - Asparagus, 68 - Basic - No. 1 (with beer), 49 - No. 2 (with milk), 50 - Blushing Bunny, 63 - Border-hopping Bunny, 60 - "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 - Buttermilk, 76 - Celery and Onion, 67 - Chipped Beef, 66 - Cream Cheese, 75 - Crumby, 70 - Crumby Tomato, 71 - Curry, 76 - Danish, 77 - Devil's Own, The, 65 - Dr. Maginn's, 54 - Dried Beef, 66 - Dutch, 72 - Easy English, 78 - Eggnog, 77 - Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 - Fluffy, Eggy, 64 - Frijole, 60 - Gherkin, 71 - Ginger Ale, 76 - Golden Buck, 59 - Golden Buck II, 59 - Grilled Sardine, 69 - Grilled Tomato, 65 - Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 - Gruyere, 73 - Kansas Jack, 66 - Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 - Latin-American Corn, 67 - Mexican Chilaly, 64 - Mushroom-Tomato, 67 - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Original Recipe, Ye, 57 - Oven, 58 - Oyster, 68 - Pink Poodle, 74 - Pumpernickel, 72 - Reducing, 75 - Roe, 69 - Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 - Running, 63 - Sardine, Grilled, 69 - Sardine, Plain, 69 - Savory Eggy Dry, 75 - Scotch Woodcock, 63 - Sea-food, 68 - Sherry, 73 - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Smoked Cheddar, 70 - Smoked fish, 70 - South African Tomato, 61 - Spanish Sherry, 74 - Stieff Recipe, The, 51 - Swiss Cheese, 73 - Tomato, 61 - Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 - Tomato, Crumby, 71 - Tomato, Grilled, 65 - Tomato Soup, 62 - Tomato, South American, 61 - Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 - Yale College, 59 - Yorkshire, 58 -Ramekins - a la Parisienne, 103 - Casserole, 105 - Cheese I, 101 - Cheese II, 102 - Cheese III, 102 - Cheese IV, 103 - Frying Pan, 105 - Morezien, 104 - Puff Paste, 105 - Roquefort-Swiss, 104 - Swiss-Roquefort, 104 -Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 -Roquefort, Champagned, 122 -Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 -Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129 - -Salad - American Cheese, 128 - Apple and Cheese, 130 - Brie, 128 - Camembert, 128 - Cheese and Nut, 128 - Cheese and Pea, 130 - Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 - Swiss Cheese, 129 - Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Sandwiches - Alpine Club, 141 - Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 - Cheeseburgers, 141 - Deviled Rye, 142 - Egg, Open-faced, 142 - French-fried Swiss, 142 - Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 - He-man, Open-faced, 143 - International, 143 - Jurassiennes, or Croutes Comtoises, 143 - Kuemmelkaese, 143 - Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 - Meringue, Open-faced, 144 - Neufchatel and Honey, 144 - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 - Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 - Pickled Camembert, 145 - Queijo da Serra, 145 - Roquefort Nut, 145 - Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 - Tangy, 146 - Toasted Cheese, 148 - Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 - Vegetarian, 146 - Witch's, 147 - Xochomilco, 147 - Yolk Picnic, 147 -Sauce - Cheese, 131 - Mornay, 131 - Parsleyed Cheese, 131 -Sauce Mornay, 131 -Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 -Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 -Souffle - Basic, 95 - Cheese-Corn, 96 - Cheese Fritter, 98 - Cheese-Mushroom, 97 - Cheese-Potato, 97 - Cheese-Sea-food, 97 - Cheese-Spinach, 96 - Cheese-Tomato, 96 - Corn-Cheese, 96 - Mushroom-Cheese, 97 - Parmesan, 95 - Parmesan-Swiss, 96 - Potato-Cheese, 97 - Sea-food-Cheese, 97 - Spinach-Cheese, 96 - Swiss, 96 - Tomato-Cheese, 96 -Soup - Chicken Cheese, 127 - Onion, 126 - Onion, au Gratin, 126 - Supa Shetgia, 133 -Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 -Straws, 133 -Stuffed Celery, 132 -Supa Shetgia, 133 -Swiss Cheese Salad, 129 - -Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Tomato Omelet, 136 -Tomatoes au Gratin, 125 - -Vatroushki, 111 - -Waffles, Cheese, 112 - - - - -ABOUT THE AUTHOR - - * * * * * - -Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and -enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New -York and summed them all up in this book. - -Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and -entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number -of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching -their students how to hole an Emmentaler. - -After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob -celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be -Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, -Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose -on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five -years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's -dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, -Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_. - -For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de -Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 -to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials -under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, -_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first -five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties. - -In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent -in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled -down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the -Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his -_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, -while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, -that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ -and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude -Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._ - -The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he -returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There -he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of -thirty books bearing his name. - -After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their -mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where -he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his -free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a -score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book -business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other -out-of-the-way items. - -[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, -removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references -to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.] - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293.txt or 14293.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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